Escapades

DUBAI SUMMER SURPRISES

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AY U T T H AYA

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#FOLLOWMETO

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ANIMETRO

SUMMER 2014 AED 10

The inspiraTion for your Jumeirah experience everywhere Creating the world’s most luxurious hotel made us think differently.

Find your Jumeirah experience at jumeirah.com/experiences

The B lueprinT

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF WALDORF ASTORIA

© 2014 Hilton Worldwide

AN INCREDIBLE DESTINATION .

AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE .

Discover an idyllic retreat, with alluring tranquillity and breathtaking views. Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah stands for True Waldorf Service in one of Dubai’s premier beach front locations.

Choose from a variety of 319 guest rooms and suites, with sea views on both sides of the hotel.

Experience unique dining and entertainment concepts at our six bespoke venues, including Social by Heinz Beck, LAO and signature tea lounge, Peacock Alley.

Luxurious facilities include a 200 meter private white sand beach, glamorous temperature controlled swimming pools, tennis court and world renowned Waldorf Astoria Spa. BOOK YOUR STAY NOW BY CALLING +971 4 818 2222 OR VISIT waldorfastoria.com/dubaipalm

THE STORIES BEGIN HERE

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DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES

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@WALDORFDUBAI

@WALDORFDUBAI

WA L D O R FASTO R I A .CO M / T H E STO R I E S

WALDORFASTORIA.COM

© 2014 Hilton Worldwide

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF WALDORF ASTORIA

AN INCREDIBLE DESTINATION .

AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE .

Discover an idyllic retreat, with alluring tranquillity and breathtaking views. Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah stands for True Waldorf Service in one of Dubai’s premier beach front locations.

Choose from a variety of 319 guest rooms and suites, with sea views on both sides of the hotel.

Experience unique dining and entertainment concepts at our six bespoke venues, including Social by Heinz Beck, LAO and signature tea lounge, Peacock Alley.

Luxurious facilities include a 200 meter private white sand beach, glamorous temperature controlled swimming pools, tennis court and world renowned Waldorf Astoria Spa. BOOK YOUR STAY NOW BY CALLING +971 4 818 2222 OR VISIT waldorfastoria.com/dubaipalm

THE STORIES BEGIN HERE

NEW YORK CHICAGO GRAND WAILEA THE BOULDERS DUBAI ARIZONA BILTMORE BERLIN JERUSALEM PUERTO RICO SHANGHAI AMSTERDAM BEIJING ORLANDO ROME CAVALIERI JEDDAH KEY WEST NAPLES PARK CITY PANAMA BOCA RATON EDINBURGH RAS AL KHAIMAH

DUBAILAPALM QUINTA JUMEIRAH RESORT & CLUB TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS

FACEBOOK.COM/WALDORFASTORIADUBAI

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WA L D O R FASTO R I A .CO M / T H E STO R I E S

WALDORFASTORIA.COM

A N E W DAY, I N V I TAT I O N , P U R E B L I S S SOME SECRETS ARE FOR WHISPERING www.royalmansour.com

ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH

Book Now: Call 800 YAS (927) or +971 (0) 2 659 9800 Visit www.yasmarinacircuit.com or any Etihad Airways Shops or Virgin Megastore

The F1 FORMULA 1 Logo, F1, FORMULA 1, FIA FORMULA ONE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP, ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX and related marks are trade marks of Formula One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved

23 Nov. Double the points. Double the action.

CONTENTS SUMMER

2014

On the cover h

Istanbul’s majestic Blue Mosque Photo by Matthew Dixon

The Twenty Year Re-Birth of South Africa h PG 66

Features

66 THE TWENTY YEAR R E B IRT H OF SOUTH AFR I CA

Sights & experiences from a complicated, fascinating country

“And then there is Cape Town...a city that has people googling ‘how to emigrate to South Africa”

92 AN IM E T RO

Paris metro turns into a metaphorical zoo

84

PHOTO: MRSIRAPHOL / SHUTTERSTOCK

CI T Y O F T H E WORLD’S DESIRE

Istanbul straddles the ancient and modern world

78 #FOLLOWMETO

The wanderlust couple’s creative project that took the internet world by storm

104 ROAM IN G AN D RID ING AM O N G ROYAL RU INS

Magnificent ruins at this 14th-century old UNESCO World Heritage Site

ESCAPADES • 16

CONTENTS SUMMER

h

2014

Departments

112 BO LD , BE AU T IF U L AND DAM N E D

CO MPASS

Field notes for the well-traveled

PHOTO: MRSIRAPHOL / SHUTTERSTOCK

PG 104

Nostalgia

29

The world of 1980s fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes

61

120

I NSIDER S

T H E L AS T S TO P

Dubai’s summer plans from the CEO of the Dubai Festivals and Retail Establishment

Below Buddha’s head in tree roots at Wat Mahathat Ayutthaya

Lessons learnt on the road from seasoned travel writer Sarah Duff

How do U.S. Presidents deal with jet lag? h PG 37

“Traveling requires military precision.”

More travel tips from male supermodel David Gandy h

PG 41

ESCAPADES • 18

—Ibn Battuta Explorer, pioneer, inspiration

ILLUSTRATION: ANTONIO ABRIGNANI / SHUTTERSTOCK

“Traveling— it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.”

Singapore Airlines

Business Class A new experience awaits you in the sky Travel in even greater comfort with our inclined-flat leather seats* in Business Class. En route, enjoy KrisWorld, your personal entertainment system as well as the inflight service even other airlines talk about.

*Available onboard the Singapore Airlines Boeing 777-300R flights on SQ495/494 and SQ497/496.

1191-001 SIA UAE Business Class FY2014 ESCAPADES 27.6X20.3cm.indd 1

4/22/14 5:07 PM

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Nasser Al Romaithy EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR

Julia Guild

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Lucy Corne, Sarah Duff, Patrick Cummings, Noah Gefen, Larry Macke, Eli Lester, James Devonshire, Erica Ho COPY EDITOR

Chandra Mouli ART & DESIGN DESIGN DIRECTOR

Matt Chase

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Lindsay Gilmore

PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Andrea Schaefer, Emmanuel Keller, Justin Vidamo, Matthew Dixon ADVERTISING, SALES & MARKETING SALES AND ADVERTISING MANAGER

Salma Eddinari IAS Media salma@iasmedia.com +97150 2102009 CONTACT ADVERTISING OFFICE

P.O.BOX 500717 Al Thuraya Tower 2 7th Floor Dubai Media City +9714 4280657 advertising@escapades.ae PLEASE ADDRESS ALL INQUIRIES TO

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Jashanmal Distribution PUBLISHED BY

Copyright © Now Publishing FZ-LLC 2014. All Rights Reserved. The opinions and statements of contributors in Escapades do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Advertisers appearing in Escapades carry no implied recommendation from the magazine or the publishers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior consent. Printed in the U.A.E by Al Ghurair Printing and Publishing.

E S C A PA D E S

R E C YC L E S

ESCAPADES • 22

Welcome to the Emirates Palace Located on the shores of the Arabian Gulf is the majestic Emirates Palace, an iconic landmark of Abu Dhabi that exemplifies luxury and true Arabian hospitality.

Set along 1.3 km of pristine white beach with refreshing pools and acres of lush gardens, Emirates Palace is more than a hotel it is a destination.

Serving a variety of the world’s finest cuisines crafted by international culinary experts, we invite you to indulge yourself in our superb restaurants, lounges and bars. Taste delicacies and authentic cuisines from around the world within vibrant settings or enjoy alfresco dining on the Palace Terrace.

It gives us great pleasure to welcome you to a one of a kind experience.

For more information or reservations, please call +971 (0) 2 690 8888 or email: reservations@emiratespalace.ae

You’ll never want to leave emiratespalace.ae

Editor’s Letter

Thoughts for the Road Ahead

Traveling Wisely in Troubled Times hen I first thought about the introduction to this issue, my vision was to usher in the summer travel season with enthusiasm. As we moved closer to press time, I became excited to share the news that the subject of our cover story, Istanbul (City of The World’s Desire, p.

84), topped Trip Advisor’s annual rankings of the world’s most popular destinations. This all seems less important, however, in light of subsequent events: In the space of 16 days, two Emirati families have been attacked in London. As a fallout, travel plans for Arab families have taken a quantum leap backwards due to fears that gangs are targeting wealthy Middle Eastern tourists.

For those who feel that caution is warranted, a “staycation” is an excellent option, as there are so many summer savings available on accommodations, dining, and family attractions in the U.A.E. Turn to this issue’s insider, H.E. Ms. Laila Suhail of the Dubai Festivals and Retail Establishments, for some words of wisdom on the topic (Insiders, p. 61).

Others will be less inclined to let events such as these dictate the choices they make.

Certainly, the times call for an extra measure of prudence, but it need not trammel the joy of a journey. There simply is no guarantee of safety

when we travel. Common street crime, aimed at anybody who looks like an easy mark, is the peril you’re most likely to encounter while traveling. The best protection is to remain alert and to rely on your wits and your intuition.

I accept the fact that the world has changed, and that we all need to be more cautious than in days gone by—was there a time when these things were not true?—but I still believe that life is to be guided by reason, not terror.

In fact, because of these changes, I would submit that that we deserve—that we need— real travel more than ever before. Getting away from it all has an even more precious value for the overstressed and overworked, as well as for anyone who needs a measure of respite from the harsh realities of the world today.

I pray you consider this: Such heinous acts might lead you to think harder about where and how you travel, but you must never let them conquer your wanderlust.

Safe Travels,

Nasser Al Romaithy

nasser@ escapades.ae @NasserRomaithy ESCAPADES • 24

The Response I have an inexplicable addiction to Buzzfeed quizzes so seeing your own take of one in The Anatomy of a Travel Snob was fantastic. It’s nice to see a magazine keeping up with trends and mixing it up. I normally hate the results I get so I’m glad you left it up to us to decide which travel snob we are. I’m a little bit of each variant you mentioned—but traveling around the world after college I’ll tell you that I’ve met each one of them.

Spot-on types.

—AKIKO MORITA

Comments & Kudos

Lucy Corne’s FOODS THAT SHOULDN’T TASTE GOOD BUT DO

and Noah Gefen’s HOW

TO SURVIVE A SANDSTORM

The Takeoff Issue and the magazine’s holistic take on travel was delectable—just like a great meal! Aside from the beautiful layouts and illlustrations I especially enjoyed the 10 mins with Sir Richard Branson. He’s an intriguing person. Jeff Heinrich must’ve enjoyed his interview time playing flash cards. A game of words for an interview, what fun. It was an inspirational first issue that I plan to keep.

—SHEENA KUMRA

had me laughing out loud. They make advice hilarious and that might be the best way to get advice through.

More funny stories and tutorials please.

ESCAPADES WAR-TORN DESTINATIONS / ALL ABOUT HONG KONG / SOUTH KOREA’S SUWON / DESERTSCAPES

T HE TA K EO FF ISSUE

Super Stylish Spreads I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed the design of the layouts in your first issue. So many magazines these days look boring but yours is so fresh!

—JOUMANA AL HELOU

Don’t worry—there’s plenty more where that came from. —Nasser

We’re glad you noticed! We think it looks pretty great, too. —Matt

Hats Off

I’m a big fan of horse racing and it was nice to read some Dubai World Cup fashion tips from the Dubai Racing Channel’s Laura King—who I must say, had the nicest hat this year.

—MYRNA AYAD

Liked it? Hated it? Drop us a line and let us know what you think.

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And They’re Off • ISSUE 1 ESCAPADES • 26

Welcome to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, where the passion and innovation of Ferrari fuel rides and attractions for the entire family. Immerse yourself in unforgettable experiences as you admire the largest collection of Ferraris outside of Maranello, soar virtually over Italy, and indulge in authentic Italian dining experiences straight from the home of Ferrari.

Come to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi with your children, and leave with your champions.

Don’t wait in line, book online today!

FERRARIWORLDABUDHABI.COM

Correspondents

Collaborators + Contributors

Escapades of our own...

We travel too, you know. So for this issue, we asked a few of our staff, friends and correspondents: What item could you never travel without?

S.D.

“A lot of travelers swear by Pepto Bismol and I’m one of them. I learnt from Dr. Oz that the Bismuth in Pepto kills the invaders and soothes your stomach.

Best solution for foodborne travel illnesses and food poisoning.”

—Nasser Romaithy, Editor-In-Chief My iPhone: it’s a camera, notebook, computer, guidebook and translator rolled into one.

—Sarah Duff, Contributing Editor

L.C.

L.G.

Lucy Corne

Sarah Duff

Lindsay Gilmore

is a freelance writer with incurable wanderlust and a passion for the offbeat. Her itchy feet have taken her to over 40 countries across every continent but Antarctica. Some of her travel highlights include cleaning up panda poop in China, visiting the remote island of Tristan da Cunha, teaching Tibetan monks in India and meeting her husband on a Cairo to Cape Town overland adventure. As well as writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet, Dorling Kindersley and Bradt, her travel features have been published in a range of newspapers and magazines around the world.

is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Cape Town, whose job has taken her all over the African continent and further afield.

From tracking mountain gorillas in Rwanda, road tripping around Malawi, sleeping under the stars in the Namib Desert, beach hopping in Mozambique, to searching for Istanbul’s best Turkish delight, her travels have only left her with an unquenchable desire to explore more. Her stories and photographs have been published in a range of magazines and newspapers and she blogs at duffssuitcase.com.

is an illustrator and production designer currently living in Portland, Oregon. Raised in Roswell, Georgia, she takes her southern hospitality very seriously and is often accused of smiling too much, using far too many exclamation points in her emails, and being a little too quick to give strangers a nickname. When not drawing pretty pictures, Lindsay can be found sharing a meal and good conversation with friends, spending time outdoors, and adventuring through life with her husband, Beau. You can find more of her illustration work at lindsaygilmore.com.

@SARAHDUFF

“A toothbrush. I don’t think I really need to explain that one.”

—Matt Chase, Design Director “A guidebook.

As well as using them to find attractions and accommodation, I love to learn a little of the local language and get some historical background on a place.”

—Lucy Corne, Contributing Editor “My camera. I’m a shameless tourist.”

—Lindsay Gilmore, Contributing Illustrator

@LUCYCORNE ILLUSTRATIONS BY LINDSAY GILMORE

ESCAPADES • 28

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Whether you crave desert adventure, exciting wildlife discovery or blissful beachside relaxation, your dream holiday can now last even longer as you save up to 40%* and enjoy a complimentary 60 minute aromatherapy massage for two when you extend your stay at Abu Dhabi Anantara resorts.

Plan your next Anantara experience today and enjoy a more rewarding dream holiday. * Discount varies per participating hotel or resort.

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Book now at

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PHOTO: NIKKI BIDGOOD / ISTOCK

COMPASS

SUMMER

2014

This Month

3 4 GE TAWAYS

The splendor of Istanbul’s Ottoman palaces echoes in the Shangri-La Bosphorous

3 6 FAS H I O N

Contemporary and edgy designs from The Style Chamber

52 O U T D O O RS

Treepod for two, Sir?

54 ADVE N T U RE

Grazing the clouds in a hot air balloon

58 T E C H

The Pandora’s Box in every place

4 0 FLY I N G

Beating jet lag. U.S Presidents style.

4 4 A DV I CE

Travel tips from the world’s most famous male supermodel

4 6 H OT S POT

FIELD NOTES FOR THE WELL-TRAVELED

Take to the Skies h PG 54

Dubai’s best new business hotel

60 D IN IN G

Dubai’s sophisticated 1920s themed Belgian restaurant sets shop in the Ritz Carlton DIFC

62 H E ALT H WATC H

One fish tale you must believe in

5 0 T RAV E L T E C H

The only travel apps you need

ESCAPADES • 30

SINGAPORE GATEWAY TO SOUTHEAST ASIA

SilkAir routes SilkAir is the regional wing of Singapore Airlines.

Experience the luxury of Singapore Airlines with 10 weekly flights from Dubai to Singapore. The island city is also a short flight to 35 amazing destinations in Southeast Asia. En route, enjoy KrisWorld, your personal entertainment system and the inflight service even other airlines talk about. singaporeair.com

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4/14/14 11:55 AM

Getaways

PHOTO COURTESY SHANGRI-LA

ON T H E EUROPEAN BA N K

of the Bosphorus in the Besiktas district stands the stately and enchanting Shangri-La Bosphorus, housed in the austere, neo-classical shell of a 1929 tobacco warehouse, and one of only a handful of five-star hotels directly on the waterfront.

With an interior dominated by marble and accented with Asian artistic flourishes, the first Turkish property of the Hong Kong-based luxury hotel group echoes the cultural crossroads it occupies.

THE

I S TA N B U L

Most of the 186 rooms have views of the majestic blue Bosphorus Strait and the bustling maritime traffic that goes back centuries. Other rooms face the dramatic atrium marked by a striking two-story modernist chandelier and a 59 ft-long Chinese silk painting. Also of note: CHI, The Spa, which offers both traditional Turkish and Asian treatments to restore the body and spirit. —LARRY MACKE

Palace on the Sea

SUMMER I S SU E

ESCAPADES • 32

PHOTOS COURTESY THE STYLE CHAMBER

Fashion

1 Benedetta Bruzziches Carmen Bag, Rose 2,130 Dhs • 2 Kuboraum Mask Shiny Havana 1,689 Dhs • 3 Demoo Parkchoonoo Silk Gradation Dress 1,377 Dhs

1 of 2

The Style Chamber

T H E S T Y LE C H AM BER ’S

summer collection introduces an eclectic mix of designers that champion a selection of stylistic themes such as architectonics and minimalism. The Abu Dhabi based global online shopping destination offers access to new and exciting designers from around the world, with an eye for contemporary and daring designs. • thestylechamber.com 2

3

1

ESCAPADES • 34

Fashion

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1 Louis Leeman, The Driving Shoe, Hidden Micro Studs, Beige 2,681 Dhs • 2 C.A. by Cinzia Araia, Blade Low Zip Boot, Beige 2,938 Dhs • 3 Louis Leeman Loafer with Studs, Brown 2,020 Dhs

1 2

3

35 • ESCAPADES

INFINITI QX80.

FIRST CLASS. EVERY DAY. Settle in comfortably, fasten your seatbelt, start the engine and leave the world behind. The weather conditions outside your window no longer matter. It’s time to forget the ordinary and enjoy the carefully created First Class atmosphere.

While others may share the same road, you cruise at a different altitude.

Discover more at Infiniti-me.com InfinitiMiddleEast InfinitiME

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Infiniti QX80, 400 horsepower 5.6-litre V8 VVEL engine with 560 Nm of torque.

Visit your nearest Infiniti Centre to experience the Infiniti QX80 in First Class surroundings.

Infiniti is refining its language; all models will now be prefixed by Q or QX. • Saudi Arabia: Al Ghassan Motors: 8003060030, Alhamrani United Co., Jeddah, Tel: +966-2-6696690, Riyadh, Tel: +966-1-2332756, Dammam, Tel: +966-3-8144301 • Dubai & Northern Emirates: Arabian Automobiles Co., Main Showroom, Tel: +971-4-4079500 • Abu Dhabi & Al Ain: Al Masaood Automobiles, Tel: +971-2-6811118 • Kuwait: Abdulmohsen Abdulaziz Al Babtain Co., Tel: +965-1-804 888 • Oman: Suhail Bahwan Automobiles, Tel: +968-2-4661776 • Qatar: Saleh Al Hamad Al Mana Co., Tel: +974-44283366 • Bahrain: Y.K. Almoayyed & Sons., +973-17732732 • Lebanon: Rasamny Younis Motor Company S.A.L., Beirut, Tel: +961-1-273333 • Jordan: Bustami & Saheb Trading Co. Ltd., Amman, Tel: +962-6-5520333 • Azerbaijan: Nurgun Motors, Baku, Tel: +994-12-4481765

THE

Advice

SUMMER I S SU E

Travel (and Style) Tips from David Gandy George Clooney’s character in the film Up in the Air reminds me of me when I Aloe Blacc is my go-to artist travel. at the moment I take about 80 or 90 flights a

If there’s a man to take style lessons from it’s David Gandy. The Essex-born 34-year-old caught the world’s attention as the lead male model for Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana and his career has gone from strength to strength ever since. Here, the male supermodel shares some of his travel tips with us.

I must be the only idiot who would take antlers on a plane A friend in Miami gave me a candlestick made of them; it’s fair to say that security were pretty surprised. It was funny seeing X-ray antlers popping up on screen as they went through.

I play the same songs over and over until I get sick of them.

year so I’m the one looking at the security lines trying to figure out which one is quickest.

For a flight I wear clothes that I can snuggle into like big chunky knitwear and jogging bottoms. I used to travel in tight jeans, which were pretty uncomfortable, I don’t know how or why I did it for so long.

Travelling requires military precision as I’m used to being on my own.

If I travel with family or friends they lose their passport about 15 times before immigration, which I find frustrating.

My beauty regime isn’t huge but I always take Kiehl’s moisturising cream. For men, beauty products are still quite a scary prospect, but Kiehl’s shops are really manly.

ESCAPADES • 38

Malaysia

Endless Distractions *CNN 2012 Ranking

Hot Spot

DUBAI

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PHOTOS COURTESY OBEROI GROUP

Oberoi, Oh Boy In a city world-renowned for superlatives and multiculturalism, it was only a matter of time before the Delhi-based Oberoi Group would bring its singular reputation for hotel and resort service, luxury, and quiet efficiency: The Oberoi, Dubai began welcoming discerning travellers in June 2013.

The sleek, steel-and-glass structure in the city’s emerging Business Bay district offers 252 rooms that feature floor-toceiling windows and afford its guests sublime views of the gleaming Dubai skyline. Partake in the Arabic coffee at check-in, and you might be thankful later that your hotel includes the city’s only 24-hour spa. Marvel at the lobby’s two epic Czech-made

chandeliers, each made from more than 100,000 pieces of crystal, and enjoy the civility of an authentic British afternoon tea with reverse colonialism accents that include pandan eclairs and Turkish halvah.

For dining variety, there’s scant reason to leave the premises.

Start with Ananta, the Indian signature restaurant on the lobby level, which captures India’s rich

culinary heritage while showcasing authentic cooking techniques. Be sure to experience Umai, a Pan Asian restaurant with one of the UAE’s few Fugu Chefs licensed to prepare Japan’s legendary poisonous blow fish.

And round out your journey with Nine7One, a world cuisine restaurant that boasts food from nine countries seven days per week in one place.

ESCAPADES • 40

Hot Spot

DUBAI

2 of 2

Above Q Bathrooms are spacious and modern, inside and out

The Oberoi, Dubai overlooks the iconic Burj Khalifa and is close to downtown, the Dubai International Financial Centre, Dubai Mall, and Mall of the Emirates. It’s also the one of the newest places to bask in the sense of sophisticated service that the Oberoi Group began developing 80 years ago and, as such, is right at home in Dubai.

—LARRY MACKE

41 • ESCAPADES

Below Q Numerous amenities and personalized butler service

Malaysia

Endless Beaches

Malaysia

Endless Colour

THE

Travel Tech

SUMMER I S SU E

Don’t Forget to Pack the App!

Foodspotting (Free) If seeking out new food experiences is part of your travel style, then Foodspotting is the download for you. Embracing the foodie revolution, this app gives you a wealth of options for virtually any dining style, from that impossible-to-find, dingy street food stall with perfect carne asada tacos to the hippest molecular gastronomy joints in town. More than just restaurant reviews, Foodspotting zooms down to a sortable dish level and features mouth-watering food photos from real diners.

Say you’re craving a burger in Beijing: Foodspotting will point you to the Deluxe Burger at Lush and give you a drool-worthy visual to seal the deal.

HTC ONE PRODUCT ILLUSTRATION CREATED BY BARTOSZ PEROŃCZYK

Today’s traveler knows that light is right when it comes to baggage. As such, it’s no wonder that the world of travel apps is rapidly replacing the traditional printed guides of yesteryear.

The Converted by Ideon ($2.99) Whether you’re paying for lunch or just trying to exchange some cash, dealing with the myriad currencies and measurements in a multiple-country trip can be an exasperating challenge.

The Converted aims to solve that problem by delivering up-todate information in a visual manner, with sliding scales to give you a contextual understanding instead of just spitting out an answer. The minimal white and blue display is built with mobile devices in mind, and most of the controls are completed by swiping or sliding instead of typing in numbers.

TripAdvisor (Free) In the beginning, there was travel. Shortly afterward, there was TripAdvisor. The forefather of all travel websites and apps, TripAdvisor has remained a relevant and trusted source by providing countless user reviews about almost anything under the sun—Tuscan and otherwise.

Unless you’re charting unexplored Antarctic territory, it’s a safe bet that every entry on your travel agenda will be well-documented with plenty of TripAdvisor user reviews.

Gogobot (Free) If TripAdvisor is the original ancestor of all travel apps, then Gogobot represents an evolutionary step forward. Eschewing the social media label in favor of peer recommendations, this app uses a virtual web of trust to provide spot-on tips for hotels, sights, restaurants, and other points of interest. By following fellow travelers and joining Tribes (travel categories such as Backpacker, Luxury, and History Buffs), you can sort through a hand-picked platter of options and add them to your personal trip plans. One standout

Gogobot feature is digital postcard creation from uploaded photos to share your journey in the time-honored tradition.

TripIt (Free, $0.99 ad-free, Pro for $49.99/year) When travel plans get complex, there’s nothing like hand-held technology to keep track of the details. Automagically scanning your emails for travel confirmations, TripIt extracts all

the relevant confirmation info (flights, hotels, rental cars, restaurant reservations, and more) and puts it all in a single app for easy retrieval. The latest edition of TripIt even provides directions from point to point. So when your flight touches down in Barcelona at 5 PM, you’ll already know how to get to your hotel and from there to your 9 PM dinner reservation at the legendary Michelin-starred Restaurante Lasarte.

The neo-Luddites among us may wax nostalgic about the “glory days” of hitting the road without technology, but the truth is that the new generation of travel apps has opened up countless possibilities to improve your travel experience. From the planning stage to the trip back home, using these tools means you’ll be better informed and ready to experience the best that travel can offer.

It’s all just a few taps away.

—LARRY MACKE

ESCAPADES • 44

Malaysia

Endless Fascination

Outdoors

THE

SUMMER

MALDIVES

I S SU E

Dining at New Heights at Soneva Kiri

PHOTOS COURTESY SONEVA

Dining at Soneva Kiri in the Maldives is anything but ordinary and has been taken to new heights, with the Treepod Dining experience.

THE TR EEPOD is situated at one of the best vantage points the resort offers; a few yards along the coastal path from the resort’s main facilities on the west facing side of the island.

Guests board the rattan, bird’s nest at ground level and are taken to new heights. With sumptuous, cushioned seating for up to four diners, guests fasten their leather seatbelts and are gently hoisted 16 feet into the tall, native massang trees. As the pod slowly climbs into the trees, and the rocky shores slowly descend, their host Khun Lek simultaneously flies through the air on a zip line coming from a small platform perched half way down the hill.

Once Khun Lek has served the meal, he zips back up the hill, discreetly positioned a few feet away in case guests wish to add to their order.

With birds’ eye views over the peaceful, clear waters surrounding remote Koh Kood, interrupted only by swaying leaves of the massang, a bewildered squirrel or the occasional passing butterfly, dining in the treetops is likely to be one of the most memorable meals anyone can have.

The menus follow the jungle themes ‘Canapés in the Canopy’, ‘Forager’s Basket’, ‘Woodland Offerings’, using produce predominantly from the resort’s organic gardens or the island of Koh Kood.

And if guests’ sweet tooths are not yet fully satisfied, they are just a 5 minute stroll from Soneva Kiri’s ice cream parlour with an incredible 65 flavours of homemade ice cream or the chocolate room filled with many varieties of chocolates, organic bon bons and truffle temptations.

• SONEVA.COM

“The element I am particularly proud of is that we actually managed to build it without any bolts or attachments into the actual trees” —Louis Thompson, designer of both Treepod Dining and Soneva Kiri’s Eco Villa ESCAPADES • 46

Malaysia

Endless Vistas

Adventure

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Take To the Skies

DOCTOR JOOLS / SHUTTERSTOCK

We can jet halfway across the world in less than a day and fly to space, but we never fall out of love with the magical experience of floating high above the Earth in a hot air balloon.

Here are four of the best places of the world to take a slow, scenic flight.

Dubai A thirty-minute drive from Burj Khalifa takes you from the glitz of the city and into another timeless world of undulating sand dunes and green oases. It’s here that you’ll take off at dawn against a backdrop of the Hajjar Mountains and float up to a height of 3000 feet. Below, the desert becomes a golden carpet, dotted with camels, oryx and gazelles. There’s a profound sense of calm and serenity, with the only sound the occasional roar of the flame in the balloon.

• ballooning.ae

ESCAPADES • 48

Adventure

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49 • ESCAPADES

3. Namibia The world’s oldest desert, the Namib, is undeniably spectacular: red undulating dunes as far as the eye can see and mountains that turn purple at sunrise, but it’s even more mind-bogglingly beautiful by air. As dawn casts a golden glow over the immensely vast landscape, your hot air balloon rises above the sea of dunes and grassy plains dotted with fairy circles (mysterious patches where nothing grows). Underneath you, startled zebra, which look like striped ants, run from the shadow of the balloon. You land in the middle of the desert where a lavish champagne breakfast is laid out and waiting for you at the foot of giant dunes.

• namibsky.com

4. India After exploring the Pink City of Jaipur, a feast of lavish palaces and impressive hilltop forts, by foot and on elephant back, ascend into the sky on a balloon safari for gorgeous views over the biscuit-coloured desert landscape and its ancient treasures.

Take in the ramparts, symmetrical gardens and courtyards of the 16th-century Amber Fort, the barren Aravalli Hills, crisscrossed with stone walls, and the glittering Maota Lake.

Rural Rajasthan unfolds on the flight, as the balloon floats over sleepy villages in the countryside outside of the city, where the morning breakfast fires are burning, cows are being led out to graze and children wave up excitedly, calling for the balloon to land.

• skywaltz.com —SARAH DUFF

(TOP TO BOT): TATIANA POPOVA, GARY718 (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

2

2. Turkey Rising at dawn over a fairytale land of volcanic chimneys and caves carved into the hillside with a hundred other hot air balloons all floating up together is beyond surreal. If you only ever do one hot air balloon flight in your life, Cappadocia, in central Turkey is where you should do it. Nowhere else in the world do so many balloons go up at once almost every day.

Added to the magic of being surrounded with rainbow-coloured balloons seemingly suspended between sky and earth, is the aerial perspective on an incredibly beautiful landscape of snow-capped mountains, gorges, green valleys, ancient mountaintop rock villages and volcanic castles that look like they’re made from Swiss cheese.

• voyagerballoons.com

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Bali, Indonesia Bali, Indonesia Bali, Indonesia

Bali, Bali, Indonesia Indonesia

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THE

Tech

SUMMER I S SU E

Mystery Box

Modern air travel moves humans faster and further than ever before, effectively shrinking our world in ways unimaginable just a few generations ago. But despite the technological advances, flights don’t always end up where they should, and when radar fails to provide the location of the missing plane, we’re reminded just how large this globe is. To solve the mystery, investigators seek out the “black box.”

NOWADAYS, WE AL L

take air travel for granted, and aviation has become, for many people, part of their routine schedule.

Experience and technology has made air travel safer now than ever before: You are more than 20 times safer flying in a commercial jet than you are travelling by car. One of the reasons is the black box— weighing in around 10 kg and about the size of a shoe box—a necessary feature of all aircraft that records vital information for investigational use in the event of an accident.

ILLUSTRATION BY MATT CHASE

Their History The black box is thought to be the brainchild of Dr. David Warren, and its origins can be traced to the 1950s. Dr. Warren was a scientist at the Aeronautical Research Laboratory in Melbourne, Australia, and following a number of fatal incidents involving Comet jet-powered airliners, he decided that something had to be done to assist with crash investigations.

Dr. Warren believed that vital clues as to the cause of a crash may be discovered if the pilot

Another explanation comes from a conversation between Dr. Warren and a journalist where the latter remarked, “This is a wonderful black box.”

Whatever the origin, it remains a fact that black boxes are much brighter than they sound.

and flight crews’ last words were recorded, as well as important information relating to the plane’s status. This is why a black box is actually two boxes— one to record voices (cockpit voice recorder, or CVR) and the other to record data relating to the plane’s instruments (flight data recorder, or FDR)—and sometimes the CVR and FDR are parts of a single unit.

The New Black We can be thankful that the black box doesn’t live up to its name, given the conditions under which most searches take place. The unit is painted a bright, eye-catching orange or yellow to make it easier to find.

So, why is it called a black box? The answer is that nobody is exactly sure, but there are a number of theories. For example, some early designs used film to record information, which meant that the inside of the box had to be completely black like a photographer’s darkroom to get the best results.

So How Do They Go About Finding One? Given that some searches take place over hundreds of square kilometers, a brightly colored exterior only goes so far. This brings us to another brilliant black box advance: Not only do they store vital information, but they also give clues as to their whereabouts.

Each black box is fitted with its own beacon that emits a chirp every second, once activated by coming into contact with water.

This signal cannot be heard by the human ear, but can be traced using special equipment.

However, the beacon does not usually last more than 30 days, which is why there is always a race to locate the black box following an aviation disaster.

Other ways of locating them after the beacon has died include magnetic detection, but this is obviously much more difficult.

Virtually Indestructible Extremely strong—yes.

Indestructible—probably not. Black boxes are, however, designed to withstand the massive impact of a plane crash, intensely hot fires and even tremendous underwater pressures. In fact, they can still operate immersed to a depth of some 6,000 meters. Impressive specifications, to be sure, and entirely necessary to serve their intended purpose.

Removing all of the human error from air travel may never be possible, but with tools such as the black boxes that make it possible to learn why things occasionally go wrong, the potential is there to make fatal accidents exceedingly rare.

—LARRY MACKE

ESCAPADES • 52

Dining

THE

DUBAI

SUMMER I S SU E

PHOTOS COURTESY CAFÉ BELGE

Deco De Luxe IF JAY GATS BY were to roar into town driving a 6-45 ‘Gold Bug’ Speedster then chances are he’d pull up with a screech outside Café Belge—Dubai’s and the regions’ first grand café.

Art Deco and Art Nouveau design elements are richly reflected in the décor, from the decorative carvings on the columns, to the ornamental chandeliers and mirrors, to the array of bold geometric pictures that adorn the walls, further complemented by marble floors and tables, two rich wooden bars and signature high ceilings.

Outside on the terrace, the restaurant continues in equally grand-style, and a separate bar provides the perfect spot for those seeking an alfresco tipple. Guests to Café Belge are welcomed in warm Belgian style, experiencing etiquette refined through generations, alongside a vibrant spirit reminiscent of the 1920s.

ESCAPADES • 54

THE

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE ESSENTIAL GOOD FOOD GUIDE BY MARGARET WITTENBERG, ©2013. PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, A DIVISION OF RANDOM HOUSE, INC.

Health Watch

Mercury Rising Through a process called bioaccumulation, toxic mercury can progressively accumulate in fatty tissues at each successive stage of the food chain, from small plant-eating fish to larger fish that eat them, and finally to humans who consume the various types of seafood.

How does mercury enter our food supply?

Though mercury often originates as an air pollutant from chlorine processing plants, coal-fired power plants, and the burning of medical waste, it can ultimately make its way into bodies of water. It’s initially released in an inorganic form, but bacteria in the water convert it into a more readily absorbed and more toxic form: methylmercury.

In general, smaller fish have less mercury than larger fish, as the older and larger the fish, the greater the potential for them to accumulate high levels of mercury.

Longer-lived predatory fish, including shark, swordfish, tilefish (golden bass), king mackerel, and tuna tend to accumulate higher concentrations of mercury from their consumption of organisms lower in the food chain.

What about fish from rivers, lakes, and streams?

Some varieties of fish obtained from recreational fishing in rivers, lakes, and streams may also be high in mercury, not to mention other pollutants, including dioxins and polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).

Because these persist in the environment for long periods of time, they often make their way into bodies of ILLUSTRATION BY MATT CHASE

SUMMER I S SU E

water, where they are absorbed and transported into fatty tissues in fish and marine mammals.

Although they are distinctly different than mercury in chemical composition, they also bioaccumulate up the food chain, and some fish may contain all three contaminants.

Can cooking reduce the toxins in fish?

Neither cooking nor trimming can reduce mercury levels in fish, as it is most concentrated in the muscle tissue rather than in fat or oils. On the other hand, exposure to PCBs and dioxins can be minimized by removing the skin and surface fat from fish before cooking.

Human health risks depend not only on the methylmercury level in the fish, but also on how much is eaten, the body weight of the consumer, and individual variation in the body’s ability to handle mercury. Babies in the womb and young children are most vulnerable to mercury, as it can adversely affect the development of the cognitive, motor, and sensory centers within the brain.

The more mercury that gets into a person’s body, the longer the exposure time, and the younger the person, the more severe the effects are likely to be.

In addition to children, all women of childbearing age are, therefore, advised by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to eat only up to twelve ounces per week of a variety of fish and shellfish known to be lower in mercury. When it comes to canned tuna, guidelines on albacore (white) tuna have been highlighted in particular, as, unlike canned tuna labeled “chunk light” or “chunk,” which tends to come from smaller species, albacore tuna contains more mercury.

Accordingly, the FDA recommends its consumption be limited to six ounces per week.

Safest

Most Unsafe

h

h

Anchovies Catfish Clam

King mackerel Shark Swordfish

ESCAPADES • 56

ORIGINS

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DISCOVER EXTRAORDINARY CUISINE THAT SETS YOUR PULSE RACING

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For reservations, call +971 2 656 0600, email dining@viceroyhotelsandresorts.com or visit our website www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/abudhabi facebook.com/yasviceroy

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IN A FEW WORDS WITH OUR

Culture

DUBAI

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IN SIDERS a wide a range of world-class entertainment and also the opportunity to participate in numerous promotions and win amazing prizes.

There’s a lot to celebrate, savour and learn this summer. Any highlights?

HER EXCELLENCY

LAILA SUHAIL

CEO OF DUBAI FESTIVALS AND RETAIL ESTABLISHMENT (DFRE), AN AGENCY OF THE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM AND COMMERCE MARKETING (DTCM)

17 years of Dubai Summer Surprises. You’ve transformed the season. (Tell us a little of the beginning of Dubai Summer Surprises and what it has become now).

In the years prior to 1998, the hot summer season was a lean period for the retail sector. But in June 1998 the Government of Dubai took a bold step that changed the way people did their summer shopping in the region.

A unique summer event, the Dubai Summer Surprises (DSS) was launched with its slogan “Big Fun For Little Ones”, aimed

ILLUSTRATION BY LINDSAY GILMORE

at making it a fun experience for families and imparting knowledge to children through edutainment. And, just like the Dubai Shopping Festival that was introduced in 1996, DSS soon turned into a resounding success, positioning Dubai as the summer destination of choice for families and tourists. Thanks to the DSS initiative, there are more reasons for people to remain in Dubai today than take off overseas during this period, and it has become even more attractive for families from around the world to visit the city during the summer and enjoy

The eventful summer season that awaits visitors will be packed with an array of entertainment and rewarding shopping options for families and children of all ages, cultures and nationalities whether it is during Modhesh World, Ramadan in Dubai, Eid in Dubai—Eid Al Fitr or Dubai Summer Surprises.

Retail excitement will reach a new high with various promotions that will be launched in collaboration with our Strategic Partners and the Dubai Shopping Malls Group, offering amazing prizes throughout the summer period. Among the highlights of the summer will be Modhesh World, one of the largest indoor family edutainment facilities in the region, Dubai Sports World, one of the Middle East’s largest indoor sports events, Dubai International Holy Quran Award, Ramadan Forum and Ramadan Tents, musical concerts, cartoon character and theatrical shows.

Dubai Summer Surprises seems to be geared mostly towards families? What can other people expect?

Dubai Summer Surprises, running from 2 August to 5 September, is largely designed to entertain families and children but many events and activities can also be enjoyed by everyone.

Further, the prize-packed ESCAPADES • 58

Culture

promotions that will be run during the 17th edition of DSS offer all residents and visitors the opportunity to participate and benefit from the summer extravaganza.

How many stores are participating this year?

What type of discounts should we expect?

Shoppers will have the opportunity to pick up a wide range of special offers and bargains including discounts of up to 75 percent from more than 70 malls throughout the city.

Their shopping experience will become even more rewarding this summer, as more exciting promotions will be launched by our partners in the private sector.

A government arm in charge of festivals and the retail sector. It seems that there’s always something going on in Dubai. You are in the business of making people happy, how does it feel?

There are numerous reasons why Dubai is different from many international tourism destinations but the fact that a government entity like the DFRE is organising festivals on a regular basis in close collaboration with the private sector is in itself a unique model that has earned global respect and admiration. We at DFRE are truly 59 • ESCAPADES

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proud to have pioneered these festivals and celebrations, as part of efforts to revitalise the emirate’s retail sector and to support Dubai’s tourism growth. Our key objective is to help create a vibrant atmosphere across the city at all times and position Dubai as a year-round family tourism destination.

How many visitors do you expect this year?

Since the DSS was launched in 1998, visitor arrival figures during the summer have improved year after year. In 2012 DSS attracted 4.36 million participants and contributed AED 12.3 billion to the Dubai economy.

We are looking to step up the momentum this year, especially since our 2014 summer calendar will be much bigger than ever before in terms of events, activities and promotions.

What did winning the Expo mean to you being a part of Dubai Festivals and Retail Establishment?

Winning the right to host Expo 2020 is a monumental achievement by Dubai and the UAE, and for every entity in the country including DFRE it was truly a glorious moment.

Winning is just the first step, and as an agency of the Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing, DFRE recognises its

responsibilities as a key driver of tourism arrivals to Dubai in the run-up to Expo 2020. Our team at DFRE will now be fully committed to working with the EXPO 2020 organisers to leverage the impact of this event and use our expertise in retail and festivals to help welcome the world to Dubai.

much more. For a true Dubai experience, tease your taste buds at the myriad of restaurants offering diverse cuisine or for those with a penchant for the past, explore and celebrate the UAE’s heritage, history and culture at many attractions such as the Dubai Museum and the Heritage and Diving Village.

What are your tips to enjoy the summer in Dubai?

What’s your favorite part of this year’s summer season in Dubai?

We welcome visitors to savour the summer excitement that we will roll out through our festivals and celebrations. For great family entertainment visit the Modhesh World while those looking for unbeatable deals, a visit to the shopping malls could make it their most memorable summer. While at the malls, one could also check out the unique entertainment and lifestyle options such as snow-coated ski slopes, Olympic-size skating rinks, mega-sized aquariums, and dancing fountains, and

Each festival and celebration that is organized by DFRE is unique in its own special way, and caters to the varied tastes of residents and visitors of all age groups and nationalities. The 2014 summer season will reach its pinnacle in grand style with the launch of the 17th edition of Dubai Summer Surprises, a much-looked forward to extravaganza that will further reinforce Dubai’s position as a summer destination of choice.

(LEFT TO RIGHT): COURTESY OF DFRE, S-F / SHUTTERSTOCK

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FORM, SOUTH AFRICA has emerged from the flames

a

A giraffe strolls through the country’s Kalahari Desert b

Often mistaken for jaguars, leopards are the smallest of the big cats

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Storms River, Eastern Cape

d

A wedding chapel situated along the Lake Arthur Dam

of its troubled past to display its colourful plumage to the world. And what a plumage it boasts—from the jagged peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains, to the flat ochre landscape of the arid Karoo semi desert; from the crashing waves of the Atlantic hitting white sand beaches, to the steamy Zululand forests, South Africa can claim virtually every type of terrain.

When Archbishop Desmond Tutu dubbed South Africa ‘The Rainbow Nation’ back in 1994, he could well have been talking about the country’s array of natural beauty, but in fact the term was initially used to refer to the melange of cultures and races found throughout South Africa. It was a term coined to embrace the country’s diversity—a country which had previously been strictly divided along racial lines.

For many years South Africa was infamous rather than famous. Its oppressive apartheid regime, which segregated its citizens according to their race, affected every area of society, from where people lived to who they could marry and where they could work. Twenty years has passed since the first democratic elections were held, making 2014 a particularly poignant year to pay a visit.

Understanding the country’s past is an important part of any South African trip, but the apartheid era museums and a memorials naturally weigh a little heavy after a while. Luckily for the traveller, South Africa’s rainbow spans more than its people and its landscapes. Language, food, activities, wildlife, architecture—pretty much everything comes in a cornucopia of flavours here.

For beaches, battlefields and bird watching, head to KwaZulu-Natal, a steamy province on the east coast of the country. Start with a taste of the sub-continent in Durban, whose home-grown cuisine has its roots in India. Surf in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean or head inland to hike the Drakensberg Mountains.

Further north, history buffs are at home at the Battlefields of the Boer wars, while wildlife enthusiasts can

spot anything from big game to ocean animals and an array of tropical birdlife.

If it’s animals you seek, then the Limpopo and Mpumalanga provinces are home to South Africa’s most famous national park, Kruger. But parks, like seemingly everything here, abound, whether you’re looking for lions in the north-eastern provinces, seeking solitude in the arid parks of the Northern Cape or wanting to take a verdant hike in the Garden Route National Park.

The Garden Route, a notably green swatch of the country along the south coast, is known for its adventure sports, whether you’re hoping to hurl yourself off a bridge, abseil down a waterfall, take to the river in an inflatable tube or just hike through forests in search of the elusive Knysna elephants.

Further east, hiking gets serious, with multi-day treks taking intrepid types along the so-called Wild Coast, a windswept and beautiful part of the country whose ‘wild’ forests are punctuated with secluded beaches and more than the occasional shipwreck. Inland, traditional huts dot the hills in a rural region that was Nelson Mandela’s boyhood home and is now his final resting place.

Small towns abound in central South Africa and spending some time here will not only help you to fill your memory card with potential pictures for your desktop wallpaper, it also gives the chance to really meet the locals.

Try Nieu Bethesda in the Eastern Cape for an artsy escape, Prince Albert in the Western Cape for a foodie getaway, or Sutherland in the Northern Cape if you’re looking to get up-close with the stars. This tiny town doesn’t boast

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OPENING PAGE: EMMANUEL KELLER (TOP, BOT), CHRIS PREEN (MIDDLE). THIS SPREAD, LEFT PAGE: PAUL BANTON / SHUTTERSTOCK. RIGHT PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: EMMANUEL KELLER, MARTIE SWART, VINCENT VAN OOSTEN / SHUTTERSTOCK

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any movie actors or big-time singers, but it is one of the best places in the southern hemisphere to star-gaze, whether it’s at the Southern African Large Telescope or back at your B&B, many of which come with names like ‘Jupiter’, ‘Kosmos’ and ‘Starry Night’.

But it’s not all quaint towns with donkey carts trotting along dirt roads. For a slice of city life, you only have to head to Johannesburg, the country’s largest city, though not its capital. The ‘City of Gold’ has had a bad rep in years past, but urban regeneration is transforming the city centre, with coffee shops and galleries brightening once run-down districts. One thing Jo’burg has always excelled at is museums, and it is here that you’ll get the best education into what happened during the apartheid era. Join the open-top bus tour to safely see all the sights, including Soweto, the one-time sprawling township-turned bustling suburb, where Nelson Mandela’s former home is one of a number of excellent museums.

And then there is Cape Town, a city that steals more hearts than a teenage pop star, a city that has people googling ‘how to emigrate to South Africa’ or working out how they’ll be able to afford their next trip to the Rainbow Nation before their plane has even left the city’s airport. Whether it’s the fine cuisine, the shopping, the museums or the omnipresent natural beauty that often makes you forget you’re still in a city, there’s something about Cape Town that grabs hold of the traveller and just won’t let go.

In fact, this is an affliction the whole of South Africa suffers from. It’s a country that’s easy to visit and difficult to leave. But luckily there’s enough happening here to ensure that you’ll have a different and jam-packed trip every time you visit.

E AT, S L E E P,

P L AY a

✣

COUN TRY

✣

• EAT Lamb is the meat of choice in the Karoo.

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Morning fog rises over a forest in Lion’s Head, Eastern Cape b

The seafood barbeque at Die Strandloper (Langebaan) is not to be missed

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Safari adventurers explore the grasslands

67 • ESCAPADES

CI T Y

✣

• EAT Durban’s dish of the day is Bunny Chow, a curried stew of beans, mutton, beef or chicken served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread, using nothing but the crust for cutlery. If it’s fine dining you seek, head to The Test Kitchen in Cape Town, considered by many to be the country’s top restaurant.

• S L E E P The Cape Grace at Cape Town’s Victoria and Alfred Waterfront wins accolades for its bespoke design, excellent location, fine food and attention to detail in the luxurious rooms.

• P L AY See urban regeneration in action at the Maboneng Precinct, a funky inner-city neighbourhood featuring art galleries, one-off stores, restaurants, live music, theatre and a weekly food market on Sundays.

b

✣

COAST

✣

• EAT A seafood braai (barbeque) is a West Coast must. The

10-course traditional banquet is grilled before your eyes at Die Strandloper Restaurant in Langebaan, where you dine with the sand between your toes.

• SLEEP You don’t need to be on your honeymoon to enjoy the Views Boutique Hotel’s honeymoon suites. Decked out in beige and turquoise tones, the open plan rooms mimic the view that the hotel is named for—that of the expansive Wilderness Beach, one of the Garden Route’s best. Many rooms boast an ocean view, the rest look mountain-ward but there are no unattractive vistas in this part of the country.

• PL AY Surfers ply the waves along much of the South African coast, but surf central is Jeffreys Bay in the Eastern Cape. Beginners can hire boards and take an intro class, while experts can tackle the world famous Supertubes. c

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DAMIEN DU TOIT, RUDI GOBBO / ISTOCK, ANTONIO JORGE NUNES / SHUTTERSTOCK

Try it gourmet-style at Gallery Café in pretty Prince Albert, a small-town restaurant that can give any city eatery a run for its money.

• S L E E P Sabi Sabi Reserve, bordering the Kruger National Park, is a place that realises your most luxuriant safari dreams.

The four lodges offer tranquil luxury, but Earth Lodge in particular stands out for its opulence—think private plunge pools, an on-site spa and an abundance of natural light throughout, as well as a range of safari walks and drives.

• PLAY Hogsback, a hodgepodge of a village in the Eastern Cape’s Amathole Mountains, is said to have inspired JRR Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings novels. The claim is highly unlikely, but the landscape is indeed inspiring.

The best way to see it is on a misty forest hike past a trio of waterfalls.

Off the Beaten Track

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): GALYNA ANDRUSHKO, DESTINYWEDDINGSTUDIO, IKO, PHOTOSKY

While South African democracy celebrates its 20th birthday this year, many of the towns are much, much older. Both Clanwilliam and Cradock turn 200 in 2014— join them in celebrating their anniversary.

Clanwilliam

✣ It’s a largely traffic-free, three-hour drive north from Cape Town to Clanwilliam, a small town that is the leaping-off point for the hot and endlessly photogenic Cederberg Mountains. As well as hiking, stargazing, wine tasting and visiting ancient rock paintings in the mountains, this region is known for its tea. In fact, this is the only place in the world where rooibos tea grows.

Enjoy it at the Netmar Tea House in town, then head up to the remarkable Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve for game drives, nature walks, luxury accommodation and excellent eats.

d f

Cradock

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d

The sun sets over Mountain Zebra National Park

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Peaceful respite abounds in Cradock

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A wild meerkat in the country’s Karoo region g

Surfing break at Jeffreys Bay

✣ Sitting in the Eastern Cape’s Karoo region, Cradock is many miles off the average visitor’s radar, but there are definitely gems to be found here. The town’s most famous daughter is Olive Schreiner, a celebrated 19th century author and her childhood home is now a museum dedicated to her life and works.

Out of town, stay at the Cat Conservation Trust, where all proceeds from accommodation go towards research into the smaller cats found in the Karoo semi-desert region. The area’s biggest draw though is the Mountain Zebra National Park, whose highlights include guided game walks and cheetah tracking.

ESCAPADES • 68

a

ANIMAL

ENCOUNTERS

a

Addo Elephant National Park b

African penguins live in colonies, inhabitating 24 of the country’s islands

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A black-maned lion prowls the Kalahari

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Cape fur seals on Duiker Island

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South Africa’s national animal performing its “pronking” routine

f

Wise baboon

SOUTH AFRICA is known as a safari destination, but while sightings of lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo and rhino are undoubted highlights, there’s a lot more to see than the Big Five. Add some of these to your wildlife wish list and make sure your camera batteries are fully charged.

1 • Paddle in icy waters with Cape Town’s African Penguins or jump in a kayak to view them from the ocean.

2 • View elephants from above at Mapungubwe National Park’s elevated walkways, get a pretty-much guaranteed sighting at the undulating Addo Elephant National Park or choose an up-close encounter in Knysna, where you can ride, feed and swim with pachyderms.

3 • Scuba dive with ragged-tooth sharks, tiger sharks and maybe even whale sharks at KwaZulu-Natal’s Aliwal Shoal, see great whites at Seal Island near Cape Town or if you want an in-your-face encounter, join a shark-cage diving trip in Gansbaai.

4 • Take lion-spotting up a notch and seek out blackmaned Kalahari lions in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

5 • The Marakele National Park, close to the Botswana border, is one of the best places to witness Cape Vultures gliding through the air. The colony here boasts more than 800 breeding couples.

6 • They don’t tend to do much but lie around, but there’s something deliciously sinister about the crocodile. They’re often seen on safari, but for guaranteed sightings, join a boat trip along the river in St Lucia, KwaZulu-Natal.

7 • Look out for the rock hyrax—also known as a dassie—

on top of Table Mountain. These fat fluffy creatures look like giant guinea pigs, but in fact their closest living relative is the elephant.

8 • Track cheetahs on foot in Mountain Zebra National Park or get really close at the Garden Route’s Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre, where you can pet the big cats and join them on their afternoon walk.

9 • You frequently see them on game drives, but the chance to get close to a giraffe is a rare one. In the Lion Park, near Johannesburg you can actually hand-feed them.

b

10 • The bontebok is a handsome antelope that was brought back from the brink of extinction. Watch them in abundance at the diminutive Bontebok National Park, near the town of Swellendam.

11 • Spot baboons from the car as you drive the Cape Peninsula or the winding Overberg roads—and if you decide to stop for a picnic, be aware of unwanted dinner guests joining you on your blanket!

12 • Every year, between May and July, billions of pilchards make their way up the east coast of South Africa in a mass migration known as the Sardine Run. Predators galore follow in their wake—including sharks, seals, whales, sea birds and dolphins, making this a highlight for divers, anglers and birdwatchers. c

TOP TO BOT (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): JOHN MICHAEL EVAN POTTER, NATUREGRAPHICA STOCK, MOMENTS BY MULLINEUX

20

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13 • Inhale the heady aroma of thousands of Cape Fur Seals on a boat trip to Hout Bay’s Duiker Island, or don snorkel and mask to get a closer look.

14 • Look out for the Knysna Loerie, one of South Africa’s most emblematic birds in the forests around the town that give the bird its name. Knysna is a pretty place at the centre of the Garden Route.

15 • Get a glimpse of the endangered rhino on a walking safari in the Kruger National Park.

16 • Spot Loggerhead or Leatherback d turtles in the Cape Vidal Reserve on the KwaZulu-Natal Coast.

17 • Take a rare opportunity to hand-feed a hippo just outside the tiny town of Hoedspruit in the Limpopo province.

18 • Visit Hermanus between June and November for some superb land-based whale watching.

19 • Where there are elephants, there are dung beetles and while these insects might not be as magnificent as the pachyderms they tend to hang out with, spotting them at work is one of the smaller pleasures of an African safari— Tembe Elephant Park and Addo Elephant National Park are prime places to get a glimpse.

20 • The sight of South Africa’s national animal, the springbok performing its pronking routine is a joyous one to behold. See them leap into the air at many of the country’s more arid national parks, including Camdeboo, Augrabies, Karoo, Golden Gate and Kgalagadi.

Five World Design Capital Projects to Look Out For 1.

e

f

The District Six Heritage Tour will take in 14 sights, highlighting forgotten parts of the neighbourhood that tells the tale of apartheid era segregation policies. Tours will begin at the District Six Museum, one of Cape Town’s finest and a great place to get to grips with the city’s history.

2.

Seek out artist Porky Hefer’s seven vast frames found around the city, each giving a postcard view of Table Mountain. The frames have been placed to give the best snaps of the landmark designated a New7Wonder of Nature in 2011.

3.

The Mandela Poster Project Exhibition will visit Cape Town towards the end of the year. It features 95 posters of Nelson Mandela collected from around the world, one for each year of the great man’s life.

4.

One of the major projects is the Moya we Khaya Peace Gardens—a 10,000m² community food garden built in the impoverished Khayelitsha suburb.

5.

Temple of Dance is one of the many performance projects featured in the WDC2014 calendar, a show that brings Africa and India together with a combination of traditional dance and music from the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra.

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CAPE T O W N B Y

D E S— I G N

C A P E T O W N is known as the Mother City, but she’s really more like South Africa’s over-adored daughter, showered with compliments and worshipped by all. Cape Town often tops the travel ‘best of’ lists and this year, the continent’s south-westernmost city is also carrying the title of World Design Capital.

WDC2014, as it is known, sees a vast range of projects staged throughout the year. Some are temporary art installations, but Cape Town’s true focus, and perhaps the reason their bid was a winning one, was the chance to better lives through design. As well as innovative displays of art and performance, there are projects aiming to provide clean water in impoverished areas, to give people the opportunity to grow their own food, to improve public spaces and to assist start-up businesses away from the usual commerce districts.

Projects are ongoing and some don’t begin until later in the year, so knowing what you can and can’t visit can be a little confusing, but grass roots tour company Coffee Beans Routes offers half- and full-day trips to some of the most interesting projects.

Away from the World Design Capital endeavours, there’s still as much to see as there always has been. There are mountains to climb, waves to surf, animals to spot, museums to peruse, markets to haggle in and a cutting edge foodie scene that even locals struggle to keep up to date with. It’s no wonder Cape Town steals the hearts of virtually anyone who visits. She’s as complex and talented as she is beautiful—get ready to fall in love.

THE

M A N D E L A

Designed by Mother Nature Cape Town is no stranger to works of art, but not all are of the manmade variety.

1.

TRAIL

LEFT PAGE: E2DAN / SHUTTERSTOCK; THIS PAGE: RUVANBOSHOFF / ISTOCK

THE WORLD MOURNED when Nelson Mandela passed away on December 5th 2013, but the man lovingly known as Madiba had lived as full and fascinating a life as a man can live. Pilgrims now flock to South Africa to visit a host of places that played a role in shaping one of the great figures of our time. Pay your respects and honour an inspirational man’s life at some of these sites.

1 • Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela was born into the Thembu Royal Family in 1918 in the village of Mvezo in the Eastern Cape. Visit the rural hamlet on a guided tour along with the two villages where he spent his childhood, Qunu and Mqhekezweni.

Qunu also has a small museum dedicated to its most famous resident.

2 • Although he never graduated, Mandela’s first taste of higher education was at Fort Hare University in Alice, Eastern Cape.

There’s no visitor centre here as it’s still a functioning university, but diehard Mandela followers will appreciate the visit to Mandela’s alma mater.

3 • On learning that an arranged marriage awaited him in Mqhekezweni, Nelson Mandela fled, heading for the big city, namely Johannesburg. His humble former home in Alexandra is now an equally humble heritage site, with simple information panels detailing Mandela’s life in the 1940s. A larger information centre is also in progress.

4 • One of the major stops on the Mandela Trail is the Mandela House Museum in Soweto, where Nelson lived with his first wife, Evelyn and later with his second wife, Winnie, and their two daughters. Audio visual displays tell Mandela’s story, but a guided tour is highly recommended.

5 • Along with fellow Fort Hare student Oliver Tambo, Mandela opened South Africa’s first black law firm in Johannesburg in 1952. The building that housed their offices still stands and information panels recount this era of Madiba’s life.

6 • In 1955, members of varying opposition parties came together to pen the Freedom Charter in Kliptown, Soweto, which Mandela secretly attended (he wa s b a n n e d f r o m public gatherings at the time). The Kliptown Open Air Museum tells the story of the charter, which was the basis for the South African constitution. You’ll also find shops, restaurants, art galleries and a hotel here.

7 • Since the African National Congress’ protests against the government had been unsuccessful, Mandela started a militant wing of the party, a group known as Umkhonto we Sizwe (Spear of the Nation) or MK for short. Liliesleaf Farm in the northern suburbs of Johannesburg served as the organisation’s underground headquarters and today it is a magnificent museum, detailing Mandela’s resistance campaign through interactive exhibits.

Cape Town’s iconic flattopped landmark is usually the first thing on every visitor’s ‘to-do’ list. Many simply opt for the rotating cable car that transports you atop Table Mountain, but the more intrepid can hike up and even abseil back down.

2.

The windswept beaches and wave-weathered cliffs of Cape Point are as much a reason to head to the tip of the Cape Peninsula as the more often visited lighthouse and Cape of Good Hope sign.

Despite this being a popular tourist spot, it’s easy to escape the crowds on a one of many well-marked hikes.

3.

The road around Chapman’s Peak might have had a helping hand from man, but the view is all Mother Nature’s. To extend this world-class marine drive, carry on through Hout Bay past the Twelve Apostles, where the road is sandwiched between mountain and ocean, guaranteeing awe-inspiring views on every side.

4.

When people think of Cape Town, they probably think of beach and mountain, but not so much of forest. Wander through the Tokai Forest then hike up to Elephant’s Eye Cave for an aerial view of the city’s suburbs.

5.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is an outstanding green space offering something for all interests, from guided walks through the themed gardens to hikes into the mountains or for most, the simple delight of picnicking on expansive lawns.

ESCAPADES • 72

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b

a

Mandela Bridge, completed in 2003 b

Mandela’s cell on Robben Island

c

The world mourned in the wake of Mandela’s death

8 • After evading the authorities for over a year and earning himself the name ‘The Black Pimpernel’, Mandela was arrested on August 5th 1962 in Howick, KwaZulu-Natal.

A monument by the side of the R103 road marks the spot where he was apprehended.

9 • Operating as a prison from Boer War times, Constitution Hill is now another of Johannesburg’s outstanding museums. As well as reading up on the Mandela connection, take a look at Number Four, the wing designated for black prisoners during apartheid. Here the deep-rooted racial rules are eerily evident.

10 • Perhaps the most famous of the Mandela sights is Robben Island, the maximum security prison that held prisoner 46664 for 18 of his 27 years behind bars. It is now one of Cape Town’s most visited sights, with regular tour boats leaving the V&A Waterfront to make the 7km journey to the desolate island. Many of the tour guides are former prisoners who take you around the island before contemplating the cell where Mandela learned to forgive.

11 • Nelson Mandela was behind bars when schoolchildren took to the streets in what would become known as the Soweto Uprising, but it’s an important chapter in the struggle story and one that would have had a strong impact on the imprisoned man. Visit the intensely moving Hector Pieterson Museum in Soweto to understand how this peaceful protest turned nasty and ultimately grabbed the world’s attention.

12 • Towards the end of his incarceration, Mandela was moved first to Pollsmoor Prison in Cape Town and later to the Victor Verster Prison near Paarl, now known as the Drakenstein Correctional Centre. Both are still functioning prisons, but at the latter, a triumphant statue marks the spot where Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela walked free after almost three decades in prison.

13 • Back in Cape Town, Mandela gave his first speech as a free man from City Hall as jubilant crowds gathered in Grand Parade. Today a daily market takes up much of the large square, which has a great view of City Hall’s Edwardian façade.

14 • Mandela’s release and the unbanning of the ANC spelled the beginning of the end of the apartheid era.

Understanding this dark period of South African history is key to understanding the country today and the excellent Apartheid Museum near Johannesburg will tell you everything you need to know. Make sure you allow at least half a day to explore the comprehensive exhibits.

15 • In 1993, Nelson Mandela was awarded a joint Nobel Prize for Peace alongside former president FW de Klerk.

Quirky statues at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront commemorate the two men as well as South Africa’s other winners, Archbishop Desmond Tutu and one-time ANC president Albert Lutuli.

1 6 • Pretoria’s impressive Union Buildings housed Mandela’s presidential offices while he was in office from 1994 to 1999. On December 16th 2013, a day after his funeral, a nine-metre high statue of a smiling Mandela, arms outstretched to the nation, was unveiled here.

17 • In 1995 Mandela’s autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom, was published. The tome, which he began while on Robben island, tells the life story of one of the most iconic figures of our time, but if you haven’t had chance to read it, the Bhunga Building in Mthatha in the Eastern Cape serves as a cheat sheet. Excerpts of the book make up the main exhibit, while other rooms hold gifts sent to Mandela while he was in office.

18 • Nelson Mandela Bridge was officially opened by Mandela on July 20th 2003, just after his 85th birthday. It links old and new Johannesburg and has become one of the city’s most recognisable sights.

19 • In 2004, a huge statue of Mandela dressed in his characteristic ‘Madiba shirt’ was unveiled in Sandton Square. Soon renamed Nelson Mandela Square, it’s a great spot for some upmarket shopping and a spot of lunch.

20 • The journey ends where it began, back in Qunu. Here, from a distance, you can view the retirement home and final resting place of the great Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THEGIFT777 / ISTOCK, GEORGE CLERK / ISTOCK, MARK HILLARY

c

“Could we have a drink of water, please?�

For these horses, pulling tourist carts and waiting in the hot sun can be gruelling, especially when they have no water. Travellers like you can help by only seeing the sights in carriages drawn by healthy horses with caring owners. Promoting better care amongst carriage horses will encourage less considerate owners to change their behaviour. To make a big difference for horses on your travels by doing something small, see our tips for travellers at www. worldhorsewelfare.org/responsible-tourism In addition to helping horses in the UK and our international campaigns, World Horse Welfare helps working horses across three continents by working with their owners to improve their horse care knowledge and skills. Find out more at www.worldhorsewelfare.org/international-work Please donate at

worldhorsewelfare.org/donate

Registered charity no: 206658 and SC038384

ESCAPADES

SUMMER 2014

PG. 78

#FollowMeTo Photosby

MuradOsmann

PG. 80

Before Instagram, before the iPhone, before the nearly one million followers,* #internetsensationMurad Osmann’s obsession with photography was already in full swing. However, few could anticipate the runaway popularity that his series of #followmeto images would create, or what role he would play in developing mobile photography into a viable art form.

We call it #winning. *At press time. By now, the guy probably has, like, a bajillion. Lol. P I C K I N G U P H I S F I R S T C A M E R A in Moscow at an early age, Murad discovered how such a simple device can transform a subject. After leaving Russia in 2001, Osmann kept at it although he studied civil engineering and then embarked on a career as executive producer at Hype Productions. A typical vacation in Barcelona with his girlfriend, Nataly Zakharova, was the catalyst to push his photography to the forefront.

Tired of playing second violin to Osmann’s photographic addiction, Zakharova decided to become proactive by literally pulling him by the hand. With only one hand free, Osmann shot several pics, including the image that would start the #followmeto phenomenon. This accidental shot captured Osmann’s outstretched arm and Zakharova’s back against a graffiti backdrop. Impressed with the result, the pair repeated the pose in other Spanish locations and posted the results on Instagram.

The rest, as they say, is history.

What started as a few off-the-cuff snapshots quickly went viral, making the full social media rounds and gaining international attention. With his star on the rise, Osmann started to take all the notice more seriously. The iPhone used for the first few pictures was replaced by DSLR equipment capable of a higher degree of complexity. In addition, point and shoot pics gave way to a more studied approach. Now, Osmann and Zakharova work together in pursuit of the perfect image, including detailed planning, costuming, technical lighting analysis, and staging.

This step-up in professionalism has only increased his viewership; many of Osmann’s fans check in regularly to see the newest pics.

What exactly does the world love about Osmann’s photos? By his own admission, they are not high art and the images have been considerably edited. Still, nearly 1 billion Instagram followers can’t be wrong—there is a special something that draws such massive crowds.

We like to believe that it’s the allure of travel combined with the mystery of Zakharova’s hidden face. Unlike standard travel photography that puts the focus purely on the setting, Osmann manages to give the place and his girlfriend equal billing— creating a mix of the familiar and the exotic. We recognize the pose as our frame of reference and identification, but the new setting and small details (check out Zakharova’s fingernail polish) in each picture pulls us in even deeper.

The bigger question posed by #followmeto is whether or not mobile photography can be valid art. Professional diehards with tons of equipment and an antagonism towards photo manipulation may argue that it’s just a passing trend, but the attention tells another story. The truth is that we live in a mobile age, with mobile devices.

This means that anyone with a phone can point and click to their heart’s content, and it stands to reason to expect some diamonds in the rough. Osmann may be the first mobile photography star, but others are sure to come.

For now, #winning it is.

Slide To Play

Istanbul, Turkey • July 2013

Ravello, Italy • October 2012

Walt Disney World • December 2012

Barcelona, Spain • October 2013

Hong Kong • June 2012

ESCAPADES • 78

Bali, Indonesia • January 2013

Versace Mansion • December 2013

79 • ESCAPADES

F.C. Anzhi Makhachkala • June 2013

Eze, France • September 2013

Brick Lane, London • September 2013

CITY OF THE WO R L D ' S

D E S I RE

I S TA N B U L

HAS AN UNDENIABLY MAGICAL ALLURE THAT HAS SPANNED

CENTURIES AND SHOWS NO SIGNS OF FADING. TURKEY’S CULTURAL HEART PACKS A POWERFUL PUNCH THAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO RESIST, WITH A HEADY MIX OF BEAUTIFUL CITYSCAPES , FASCINATING HISTORY , EAST-MEETS -WEST CULTURE AND INCREDIBLE FOOD . IT’S NO WONDER THAT THE CITY WAS RECENTLY RANKED THE BEST DESTINATION IN THE WORLD BY MILLIONS OF TRAVELLERS.

SARAH DUFF

FELL IN LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT.

IF ONE HAD BUT A

TO GIVE THE

WORLD,

ONE

SHOULD GAZE ON

declared Alphonse de Lamartine.

It’s rather a grand statement to make about an entire planet of spectacular sights, but once you’ve visited the Turkish city, you’ll understand why the 19th-century French writer was so utterly seduced, like legions of travellers before and after him.

Once the capital of four great empires, Istanbul has one of the world’s most magnificent skylines, with seven hills punctuated by domes, minarets, grand monuments and centuries-old palaces. Narrow cobblestone streets, flanked by stone-grey buildings, wind their way towards towers, mosques and markets. The only city to span two continents, Istanbul has one shore in Europe and one in Asia, separated by the glittering Bosphorus, a mighty ocean strait between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, the blue artery of this ancient city.

Three millennia old, Istanbul’s history as rich as the syrupy baklava smothered in clotted cream you’ll find at the city’s pastry shops (the fact that the city’s New Mosque is over 400 years old gives you some idea of depth). It’s easy to walk your feet to the point of blistering trying to fit in three thousand years into a couple of days: to really do this city justice you’d need months to explore all of its treasures.

On a first visit, start off with Istanbul’s most iconic sights, such as the Hagia Sophia, which tells the story of the city’s history without a single placard. A church for a thousand years, 83 • ESCAPADES

then a mosque, now a museum, this spiritually significant building has the history of successive empires etched on its walls: uncovered Christian iconographic mosaics and Islamic calligraphy and geometric patterns jostle for space across arches and domes.

The Blue Mosque, Istanbul’s postcard sight, is startling in its perfect symmetry. Skip the daytime crowds of tourists and head to the mosque in the early evening, when its six lit-up minarets sparkle against the inky-blue sky and you’ll only share the courtyard with locals heeding the call to prayer. While this is the city’s most famous mosque, there are many others worth visiting, such as the tiny, 450-year-old Rustem Pasa Mosque, which has only handfuls of tourists at a time. Covered in intricate blue tiles, it’s a much more contemplative, serene space than the Blue Mosque, and seems a world away from the busy streets outside its walls.

Part of the draw for travellers to Istanbul over the centuries was the exoticism and opulence of the sultans, an attraction which hasn’t faded over time. The Topkapi Palace, the court of the Ottoman Empire for four hundred years, is where visitors to the city can indulge in romantic visions of royal life, among the jewels, robes, beautiful paintings and decorated walls and sumptuous rooms in the harem quarter. Less romantic is the gaudy Dolmabahçe Palace, the building of which sped up the bankruptcy of the Ottoman

85 • ESCAPADES

OPENING SPREAD: NEXUS 7; SECOND SPREAD: MIKHAIL STARODUBOV; LEFT PAGE, THIS SPREAD: NADIIA GERBISH; RIGHT PAGE (TOP TO BOT): PATRICIA HOFMEESTER, EKATERINA POKROVSKY, ANTONY MCAULAY (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Empire. Its audaciously extravagant rooms, decorated with bearskin rugs from the Tsar of Russia and a four-ton crystal chandelier from Queen Victoria, among other gifts, speak volumes about an administration on the edge of self-destruction.

Underground, Istanbul has less glitzy but no less interesting sights: walking down a few flights of stairs into the dark chill of the subterranean Basilica Cistern delivers you into a whole new murky world of ghostly carp swimming between pillars with mysterious upside-down Medusa heads (no one has been able to work out where they’re from or why they’re upside down). The largest of several ancient underground cisterns, this was originally a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople, and gives you a glimpse into another side of Istanbul’s past. Even shopping in this city offers a trip back in time: the 500-year-old labyrinthine Grand Bazaar, with its thousands of shops selling piles of carpets, antiques, jewellery and multi-coloured glass lamps was once a marketplace for merchants from all over Asia at the end of the fabled Silk Road.

Istanbul’s sensory delights are as entrancing as its historical sights are magnificent.

Culinary explorations will yield delicious food just about wherever you go, from the syrupy baklava, salty-cheese borek or pistachio-and-rosewater Turkish delight bought from the frenetic Spice Bazaar, which used to be the last stop for caravans travelling the Silk Road from Persia and the Far East. As you walk the streets, sip zingy freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice from roadside juice bars, munch on fried-fish sandwiches from street stalls near the Galata Bridge or sit in restaurants that spill onto the streets and feast on plates heaped with mounds of meze and the famous kebabs. Breakfasts are something to

write home about: usually a spread of olives, cheese, bread, yoghurt, pastries, honey, cake, fruit and eggs, they’re accompanied by tiny cups of thick, dark Turkish coffee the colour of melted dark chocolate.

And then there’s sweet apple tea, served in delicate small glasses which is best drunk while sitting on embroidered cushions at a rooftop café at sunset, watching the city streets below you and ships crisscrossing the navy-blue Bosphorus beyond. Many Istanbullus accompany tea drinking with smoking nargile (water pipe), as city residents have been doing for five centuries. Nargile smoking reached its peak in popularity three hundred years ago, but it’s recently become hip again and groups of students, friends and young couples wreathed in sweet-smelling smoke sit around tables discussing politics, music and life, mirroring the Ottoman puffers of the royal court.

This living, breathing (or rather, smoking) history lies at the heart of experiencing this city. Istanbul isn’t a hushed museum, it’s a cacophonic energy-filled hub ceaselessly reinventing itself, interweaving the ancient and modern in an incredibly layered tapestry that as a tourist you can only slowly start to unravel thread by thread. So, once you’re done traversing cobblestone streets from one centuries-old sight to another, recline on a cushion at sunset while the muezzins’ calls ring out across the city, sip on a glass of tea, puff on a pipe and complete the journey back in time.

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tip A f i v e – m i n u t e walk from

the Blue Mosque and the Haghia Sophia in Sultanahmet, Empress Zoe is a charming small hotel in a restored building covered in vines of winding iron staircases, a tranquil garden courtyard and simple but romantic rooms decorated in a traditional sultanate style, with wood panelling, kilims and four-poster beds. Doubles from €140. emzoe.com Indulge in sultanate opulence at The Hotel Sultania, where 42 beautiful rooms are decorated lavishly like palatial harems (think gold-framed paintings, gilt-edged fabric, heavy drapes and atmospheric lighting) befitting the sultans’ wives they are named after. The hotel, located in the old city near many tourist sights, also features an indoor swimming pool, spa and rooftop restaurant. Doubles from €190. hotelsultania.com Close to the buzzing Nevizade Street and Istiklal Caddesi in the heart of hip Beyoglu a few tram stops away from Sultanahmet, Peradays is a modern, minimalist nine-roomed boutique hotel housed in a renovated century-old building.

Chic rooms are well designed, with high ceilings, stylishly minimalist fittings and glass-walled bathrooms. Doubles from €100. peradays.com It’s easy to see why the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus is consistently ranked as one of the city’s top luxury hotels. With an unbeatable setting right on the waterfront, the converted 19th-century grand Ottoman palace offers 170 contemporary-classic rooms overlooking the Bosphorus, a fabulous spa, three restaurants, and an outdoor pool and terrace where you can escape from the bustle of the city. Doubles from €560. fourseasons.com/bosphorus.

WH E RE TO E AT

Don’t miss having a scrub, steam and massage at a traditional hamam (Turkish bath). Cagaloglu Hamamı, built by a sultan nearly 300 years ago, is one of the city’s most spectacular.

• cagalogluhamami.com.tr

S t i c k t o a r u l e of steering clear of restaurants located near tourist attractions and it will be hard to have a bad meal in Istanbul. Istanbul has great street food options (try sesame-encrusted simit and roasted chestnuts) and its restaurant scene is fantastic. Eat simple but delicious meze with locals at Karakoy Lokantasi (karakoylokantasi.com) or take the 20-minute ferry to Kadikoy on the Asian side to eat at award-winning chef Yottam Ottolenghi’s favourite restaurant, the unpretentious Ciya Sofrasi (ciya.com.tr), with its flavourful stews and divine baklava with clotted cream. For panoramic views over the city, head to 360 (360istanbul.com), a trendy rooftop restaurant which serves Turkish meze as well as Mediterranean dishes such as pizza and pasta.

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THIS PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT): PATRICIA HOFMEESTER, DEREGE, AGNES KANTARUK, BERNA NAMOGLU (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL) RIGHT PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT): MEHMET CETIN / SHUTERSTOCK, MURATART / SHUTTERSTOCK, LUCIANO MORTULA / SHUTTERSTOCK, DENNIS JARVIS

WH E RE TO S TAY

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Clarisse Rebotier Thomas Subtil

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“Quite a few creatures have round up on our trains over the years,” they said.

In a new digital photo project called Animetro, Clarisse Rebotier and Thomas Subtil imagine an even wilder Paris Metro, roaming with animals from the Savannah and captured what it would be like if animals lived among us.

They combine their playful and surreal aesthetics to produce these images—a giraffe can be seen poking its head out of a train window, and an elephant makes its way from one cabin to another by squeezing through the cramped space.

Between photo realism and dreamlike imagery, Animetro approaches with amusement our daily transportation sight.

It is surely not your typical day on the Paris Metro.

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ROAMING A N D

RIDING A M O N G

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LUCY CORNE

type of restaurant. It was cheap, delicious, authentic, and had only two things on the menu. Actually, there was no menu, just a cheery chap who informed us “we have noodle soup with pork or beef”, so we happily ordered a bowl of each, all fear of food envy being instantly eliminated. In fact, on watching the locals, we realised that ordering a second bowl of ‘boat noodles’ seemed to be the done thing, so we each happily slurped another serving of the rich and complex broth laced with rice noodles and chunks of meat.

With bellies full and fomo on hold, we began to explore the ruins. While only a fraction of the 400-plus temples that were once found here survive today, there are definitely more than two options on the menu when it comes to sightseeing. We started where most visitors do, Wat Phra Mahathat, a 14th century temple best-known for the decapitated Buddha head entangle in the maze of roots of a Bodhi tree, framed so perfectly it looks like a sculptor must have placed it there to offer better photos to visiting tourists. How it really got there is not documented, though decapitations were rife when it came to Buddhist statues in Ayutthaya, a favourite pastime when Burmese warriors ransacked the city in 1767.

A muggy haze sat in the air as we wandered the ruins, piles of terracotta-coloured bricks punctuated with ornate towers, blossoming trees and the occasional intact statue.

The weather, hot and utterly still, somehow added to the

feel that this was a movie set, too perfect to be real. Not that the temples are perfect—far from it. In many cases there is little left but a metre-high foundation where a wall would once have stood, but the ruins are so utterly photogenic it’s like they were originally designed to look this way.

We moved from Wat Phra Mahathat to the impressively restored prang (an intricately carved spire) of Wat

OPENING PAGE: ANDREA SCHAFFER; THIS PAGE: JUSTIN VIDAMO; RIGHT PAGE: ANDREA SCHAFFER

suffer from chronic fomo. My Fear of Missing Out stretches to all areas of life—should I have said yes to that party invite? Have I chosen the right TV channel? Would the steak have been better than the calamari? But it’s never more prominent than when I’m travelling. In fact, travel can bring out a case of fomo in the most easy-going person.

Just think about it—you generally only have a couple of days in any given location, you’re entirely reliant on other people’s recommendations and the possibility of choosing an average restaurant when the meal of your life was waiting next door, or of choosing a decent museum tour while missing out on an unknown and spectacular neighbourhood festival is a very real problem.

This is why big cities worry me when I travel. This is why I like to linger in smaller towns and cities.

This is why I adored absolutely everything about Ayutthaya.

Now, Ayutthaya is hardly a hamlet. The one-time royal capital of Siam is today home to around 140,000 people, but this city sitting in central Thailand is so deliciously compact that it’s easy to see and do everything on even a short stay.

Ayutthaya’s most recent claim to fame is bowing out of the Expo 2020 race after the Thai government failed to endorse the city’s bid, but it has far more illustrious roots.

For more than four centuries this was the capital of Siam, a crucial trading town and a place rich in art and culture. Today it is just as rich in royal ruins and it is this history that inspires most people to visit.

It was an easy 90-minute train ride from Bangkok to reach Ayutthaya, a relaxing trip that continues with a five-minute ferry crossing on arrival in the former capital. The city centre is essentially an island, surrounded on all sounds by three rivers—Mae Nam Lopburi, Mae Nam Sa Pak and Mae Nam Chao Phraya. The natural borders make for a delightfully compact space to explore, just a few kilometres across and walkable for those with time and energy to spare. Some choose to cycle, but we took to the pavements on foot in search of local foods and ancient relics.

We were not disappointed on either count. After dumping our bags at a place with an all-important pool (even in cooler months, central Thailand can get pretty steamy), we set off to find lunch and discovered my perfect

ESCAPADES • 104

NEED TO KNOW GET THERE There are

numerous daily flights to Bangkok from Dubai with Emirates, and from Abu Dhabi with Etihad. From Bangkok, hourly trains make the 90-minute journey to Ayutthaya.

You can also travel by bus, car, or on an organised day trip from Bangkok by boat.

EAT As well as boat noodles and Roti Sai Mai, seek out crispy catfish and Thai-style seafood dishes.

DO Rent a bicycle to easily see the sights in one day, then take to the water to see things from a different angle after dusk.

SEE Set aside at least a

day to admire the city’s ruins, then check out the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum and Portuguese Settlement.

STAY If you’re looking for high-end digs, Krungsri River Hotel has plush rooms and a superb location right on the river.

For something altogether more characterful, spend your time at Elephant Stay. Accommodation here is quite basic, but the packages include meals and time spent riding, bathing and caring for an elephant. It’s a non-profit organisation that cares for all the elephants in the city.

PLAN Thailand’s national tourism authority’s website is a good place to start planning your trip to Ayutthaya and the rest of the country: www.tourismthailand.org

105 • ESCAPADES

LEFT PAGE: ANDREA SCHAFFER; THIS PAGE (TOP TO BOT): JUSTIN VIDAMO, PACHANATT PLYSRI / SHUTTERSTOCK

T H I S WA S A

M O V I E S E T, TOO PERFECT TO BE

REAL

Ratburana and later the livelier but altogether less photogenic Soi 2 strip, where backpacker hostels and lively eateries rub shoulders. It was then that we spotted a troop of elephants heading home after the nine-to-five grind. Like many towns and cities in Thailand, Ayutthaya has a long history with our pachyderm pals and they are as much a part of the city as the temples that they carry tourists amongst. We made a pact to get a little elephant face time the following morning, but for now we were looking at the other form of transport Ayutthaya cannot be without.

When your city is entirely circled by water, boats are an integral part of daily life, whether it’s the duo of river ferries offering an instant hop from one bank to the other, a full-day boat tour to Bangkok or a must-do night time trip skirting the city’s watery borders. We opted for the latter, shunning the pricey tour operators and instead agreeing a rate directly with the owner of one of the simple boats moored near the Hua Raw Night Market.

By night the movie set nature of the temples and ruins steps up a notch, many of them floodlit or adorned with spotlights that turn the already pretty temples into something you feel you simply must have photographs of. But low light and chugging boats are not an amateur photographer’s friend, so I slipped my camera back into its case and enjoyed the ride, an hour-long, 8km-or so circuit taking in the ramshackle riverside housing, the superbly preserved Wat Na Phra Meru on Mae Nam Lopburi’s northern bank, lit up as though by giant candles, the slightly out-of-place St Joseph’s Cathedral, south of the city, and further east, the city’s mosque, set back from the Mae Nam Chao Phraya’s southern edge.

Although Ayutthaya offers plenty more to see and do— including temples ranging from rustic and rubble-like to the still fully-functioning—there was only one more ‘must’ on our list. We’d had ‘boat noodles’ and now needed a sweet follow up. We abandoned our vessels, both water-borne and four-legged—and made way for Ayutthaya’s Muslim district on foot in search of roti sai mai. The saccharine snack is essentially a sugar sandwich—strands of palm sugar, with a texture not dissimilar to sun-damaged hair, wrapped in a slightly gummy roti. With a bag of goodies to make our own treats we headed back to the Historical Park to get a sugar high while watching cranes come into land on the pools surrounding centuries-old ruins. A few baht buys a rather hefty bag of sugar strands, and after a second roti each, we admitted defeat and bequeathed the bag to some grinning children on their way home from school.

Ayutthaya is one of those places that doesn’t have a world-famous landmark, a top of everyone’s bucket list-type attraction. There’s no must-do adventure sport, nor one-off animal encounter. But it’s a place you can spend a few days enjoying low-key pursuits, the kind of activities that when added up, make for an extremely enriching travel experience—one I summed up in my journal as an “ambly, rambly, perfect travelly kind of stay”. Ayutthaya is so compact and easy to navigate that you can easily enjoy everything it has to offer in just a few days and the only ones with fomo will be the ones who didn’t add it to their itinerary.

PHOTO: ANDREA SCHAFFER

The following day our objectives were clear and, with the addition of spending some time in our swimming pool, were remarkably similar to those of our first day in Ayutthaya: explore some ruins and devour some food.

This time we set about seeing the sights first, heading directly to the ‘Elephant Taxi Kraal’, sitting in the middle of the Ayutthaya Historical Park. After and meet and greet (and feed and pet) with the elephants who would act as our transport for the morning, we set off to get a regal view of the ruins, passing the spires and turrets of Wat Phra Ram and discovering that the lolloping gait of an adult elephant presents similar photographical problems as a low-lit boat ride.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)

Dubai & Middle East Office P.O. Box 450019 Dubai - U.A.E. Tel. +971-4-3250184-5 , Fax. +971-4-3250187 E-mail: tatdubai@tat.or.th , www.tourismthailand-middleeast.org

Bold, Beautiful and Damned More than 20 years after his death, Tony Viramontes—the master of descriptive line who captured the pulse of the 1980s so effortlessly—is a forgotten figure in the history of fashion illustration.

109 • ESCAPADES

Art & Fashion

VIRAM O N T E S WAS

a complex and nuanced figure, if he had never existed he would certainly have been imagined: a street smart dandy who played the part to the hilt, but at the same time fickle and contradictory, he was a visionary far too ahead of his time.

The book, Bold, Beautiful and Damned: The World of 1980s Fashion Illustrator Tony Viramontes by Dean Rhys Morgan celebrates the work and life of Tony Viramontes and brings together an extensive collection of his art, featuring striking images, many previously unpublished, of smouldering and smoky-eyed men and women who vibrate with New Wave energy.

Viramonte’s images, from the portraits of Paloma Picasso and Isabella Rossellini to the album covers he conceived for Arcadia and Janet Jackson, perfectly capture the mood of the 1980s club and fashion scene, and are as fresh and compelling as they were 30 years ago.

During his short career Tony Viramontes worked with some of the most celebrated names in fashion including Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chanel, Claude Montana and Christian Dior, as well as the world’s top models including Naomi Campbell, Janice Dickinson and Jesse Harris, the face of countless Versace campaigns.

ALL IMAGES © LAURNCE KING PUBLISHERS. USED WITH PERMISSION.

Nostalgia

“At that time no one could touch Tony, there were a few people out there trying new creative directions but nobody who would actually explode things in your face in the way he did.”

—BOB RECINE

1 Stephen Jones • 2 Halston • 3 Givenchy

1

3

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$50.00 • laurenceking.com ESCAPADES • 110

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Malawi, and along the coast of Mozambique in a Mini Cooper and didn’t have so much as a flat tyre. Off-the-beaten-track travel is generally a lot easier and less scary than guidebooks (and travel agents trying to sell package holidays) will have you think.

6.

Always have your camera with you, ready to shoot. Once you see a good photo opportunity, shoot it right then and there rather than waiting for another chance to get a similar photo, or shooting it on the way back.

STOP

10 Things Travel Has Taught Me Working as a travel writer for half a decade has taken SARAH DUFF on some amazing journeys around the world. Here’s what she’s learnt along the way.

117 • ESCAPADES

1.

No matter where you go, once you get past superficial differences (language, culture and strange tastes in dancing), we all have a lot in common. Sometimes the differences cloud what we share, but they are always there if you look hard enough.

2.

On the whole, people in most developing countries want to help you, rather than steal your stuff. There are mostly good people out there, and it helps to drop the cynicism that many of us have.

3.

Amazing places to stay aren’t defined by how much they cost.

I’ve stayed in campsites, guest farms, dorms, backpackers and some of the world’s top luxury hotels, and the ones I’ve liked best are not necessarily the most expensive. It’s all about the people who work there, the effort put in to make the place

more than a collection of rooms and the location—whether on the banks of a river, in the wilderness of a game park or on an undeveloped stretch of coast.

4.

Food leads you to the heart of a culture. Whether it’s eating sushi in Tokyo’s top Michelinstarred restaurants, tucking into a curry from a roadside stall in India, or eating deep-fried cassava sprinkled with lime juice and chilli in a Kenyan village, there are stories behind everything you eat in a new place.

Learn the stories and connect with the people behind the food and you’ll learn more about a place than you ever would by reading a guidebook.

5.

Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a 4×4 to travel overland in Africa. I’ve driven over 4500 kilometres from Johannesburg up to the top of

7. Travelling light is the only way to go. I used to try and pack for every weather eventuality, lugging huge suitcases around countries and wearing only half the clothes I brought, but now I stick to a strict list. Unless your trip requires heavy duty gear (I’m thinking a polar expedition or heli skiing) try and fit all your clothes into a bag small enough to fit into the cabin.

8.

Locals make the best guidebooks: connect with them through blogs and social media and you’ll get the best insight into a place.

9.

Travel apps aren’t essential (remember a time when we all managed to travel without cell phones?) but they do make life a lot easier. Travelling organised is about jacking up your smartphone.

10.

You don’t have to travel to travel.

Reading great travel writing will teach you more about the world than going on package holidays where you only see the inside of the airport and your resort.

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