Escapades

WAR-TORN DESTINATIONS / ALL ABOUT HONG KONG / SOUTH KOREA’S SUWON / DESERTSCAPES

T HE TA K E O F F ISSUE MAR/APRIL 2014

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Discover wildlife and enjoy a great day-out packed with fun and adventure, and explore our large animal collection of around 4,000 animals. Al Ain Zoo is a true family destination, providing entertainment and learning experiences in a natural outdoor environment.

For opening times and special attractions or visit www.alainzoo.ae

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CONTENTS MAR/APR

On the cover

ESCAPADES WAR-TORN DESTINATIONS / ALL ABOUT HONG KONG / SOUTH KOREA’S SUWON / DESERTSCAPES

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Photo by Julien Kraakman

T HE TA KEO FF ISSUE

2014 Walking Among Dragons h PG 78

Features

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56

WALKIN G AM O N G D RAG O N S

Tapping red sap from the dragon blood tree in Yemen

THE PR IDE OF INDI A

Glimpses of a dwindling species: the Asiatic Lion in Gir, Gujarat

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74

TUR R ETS & TOWERS

T H E WA N D E R E R ’ S WARPAT H

Scaling the walls of a fortress in South Korea

65 E NDLESS F OOTPR I N TS I N T H E SANDS OF TI M E

Traversing the world’s most formidable deserts

Braving bullets in the line of fire: citizen journalists in war zones

“The fear of the unknown is half the battle. The other half is what you think you know.”

Without a doubt, if Hong Kong’s story read like a bildungsroman, its leitmotif would be ‘fusion’

102 ARE YO U A T RAVE L SNO B ?

The quick guide to spotting the omnipresent travel snob

82 T H E N E W ADVE N T U RE S O F O LD H O N G KO N G

Nothing has changed...yet everything is different in H.K. ESCAPADES • 14

Thai inspired luxury in the heart of Dubai

Experience heartfelt hospitality at our idyllic five star resort on the iconic Palm Jumeirah crescent. Designed with beachside relaxation and luxurious indulgence in mind, the beautifully appointed rooms and villas offer true Asian flair, overlooking the tranquil lagoons or the Arabian Gulf. Enjoy the finest ingredients throughout four restaurants and discover culinary journeys of mouthwatering flavours.

Embark on a journey rich with discovery at

anantara.com

Call + 971 4 567 8888 or email resdubaipalm@anantara.com for enquiries and reservations United Arab Emirates • Cambodia • China • Indonesia • Maldives • Mozambique • Thailand • Vietnam

CONTENTS MAR/APR

2014

Departments

Below The 2 Bedroom Villa at Anantara The Palm h PG 35

Photo Essay

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25

S T Y LE AT 30, 000 F EET

Taxiing back in time to the early days of aviation

CO MPASS

Set a straight course for the best of travel stories

51 I NSIDER S

Meet Patrick Cummings, the man who knows racing inside out

104 OF F T H E C UF F

Ten minutes with a hi-flier: The Richard Branson interview

Travelogue

92 B I G H E A RTS I N L I T T L E L H ASA

Learning the language of spirituality while teaching English to monks

“London is one of the most exciting cities in the world with a melting pot of cultures and diversity.”

Q+A h PG 41

ESCAPADES • 16

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Places

Where We're Going

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Abu Dhabi, U.A.E.

Hong Kong

Lhasa

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Journey across The Empty Quarter, a large and harsh desert that stretches all the way to Saudi Arabia

An extensive guided tour of a city that blends the old with the new

Learning more about Buddhism while imparting English to monks

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Gujarat, India

War-Torn Zones

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A jeep ride into the Gir Forest, home of the Asiatic Lion

Coverage by citizen journalists of war torn zones and what makes them tick

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Dubai, U.A.E. h

Meydan Race Course, home to the richest horse race in the world 3

Socotra, Yemen h

Exploring the dragon blood tree in the country’s remote corner

Keep up with Escapades wherever your own adventures may take you: TWITTER

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@escpdes

Suwon, Korea

INSTAGRAM

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A visit to this lesser known town to scale the walls of its ancient fortress

@escpdes FACEBOOK

facebook.com/ escpdes ESCAPADES • 18

SLEEP.

OUR MOST POPULAR DESTINATION. Do not disturb. Stretched out on a fully-flat bed. The sumptuous soft mattress and bedtime drink beginning to take effect.

About to touch down on a cotton-wool cloud. From gentle ambient cabin lighting, to soothing pillow mist aromas, see how far we’re going to bring you some well-deserved sleep at etihad.com/comfortzone Welcome to a more comfortable world.

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Nasser Romaithy EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR

Julia Guild

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Lucy Corne Noah Gefen Laura King Patrick Cummings Nile Bowie COPY EDITOR

Chandra Mouli ART & DESIGN DESIGN DIRECTOR

Matt Chase

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

Myriam Zeggat Lindsay Gilmore

PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Julien Kraakman Vladimir Melnik Zack Lee Andrew Watkins Nadine Al Koudsi

ADVERTISING, SALES & MARKETING SALES AND ADVERTISING MANAGER

Aisha Al Murad aisha@escapades.ae +97150 3899676 CONTACT ADVERTISING OFFICE

P.O.BOX 500717 Al Thuraya Tower 2 7th Floor Office 48 Dubai Media City +9714 4280657 advertising@escapades.ae PLEASE ADDRESS ALL INQUIRIES TO

hello@escapades.ae DISTRIBUTED BY

Jashanmal Distribution PUBLISHED BY

Copyright © Now Publishing FZ-LLC 2014. All Rights Reserved. The opinions and statements of contributors in Escapades do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Advertisers appearing in Escapades carry no implied recommendation from the magazine or the publishers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior consent. Printed in the U.A.E by Al Ghurair Printing and Publishing.

E S C A PA D E S

R E C YC L E S

ESCAPADES • 20

In Touch

With Nature

Discover wildlife and enjoy a great day-out packed with fun and adventure, and explore our large animal collection of around 4,000 animals. Al Ain Zoo is a true family destination, providing entertainment and learning experiences in a natural outdoor environment.

For opening times and special attractions or visit www.alainzoo.ae @AlAinZooUAE #AlAinZoo

Editor’s Letter

Thoughts for the Road Ahead

Back to Basics

BY SOME SOME KIND OF creative osmosis,

nurtured all the way from Washington, D.C. to Dubai to South Africa and Los Angeles, I’m brimming with excitement to welcome you to our first issue of Escapades.

What would be the starring role in our debut issue? The team here at Escapades pondered over the question for weeks. Yet, nothing felt more right than to start at the beginning— before all the cash, flash, and dash set in—a time when the desert was the fulcrum, and its rich resources steadily gave rise to a modern metropolis that we all now call ‘home’. This remarkable city now caters to over 200

nationalities and welcomes millions of travellers each year.

The Desertscapes feature (Endless Footprints in the Sands of Time, pg. 65) is a catalyst to help us reflect after a decade of profligate spending as we embrace a new age of fiscal responsibility that’ll hopefully catapult us to greater achievements. By reflecting on what WAS and understanding what IS maybe we can find solace in our inner oasis. (Ubari Oasis in Libya, pg. 68) At Escapades, we’re looking at travel holistically—the good, the bad, the weird, and everything in between. Sometimes funny but always with a little bite, we’ll take you to the strange (Foods That Shouldn’t Taste Good, But Do, pg. 39) as well as the practical (Mother Knows Best— Except When You’re Traveling, pg. 49). Maybe it will make you laugh, maybe it will save you a faux pas or two.

Laughter and strife sometimes go together in the Middle East. You don’t need to be conversant in world affairs to realize that there are areas ravaged by wars and left in tatters.

The odyssey of citizen journalists and daredevil tourists to war-torn areas in the region and elsewhere stands testimony to the spirit of adventure that stays steadfast in the modern day (The Wanderer’s Warpath, pg. 74).

Often, it IS a pretty picture, as in the case of Socotra, (Walking Among Dragons, pg.

78). The otherworldly island off the coast of Yemen could be the Middle East’s answer to the Galapagos islands. It is home of the Dragon Blood tree and nearly 700 endemic species that are found nowhere else on earth.

A city draped in ancient wonder, Hong Kong

is a study in cosmopolitan energy and cultural diversity. Add its architectural innovation and sprawling infrastructure to the equation and you may end up with a puzzle more complex than the maze of streets in Central H.K. (The New Adventures of Old Hong Kong, pg. 82).

Sticking with Asia, we check out the largest town in South Korea’s most populous province, Suwon. With its fortresses, fortified walls and Dynastical history, Suwon is one of South Korea’s crowning glories (Turrets and Towers, pg. 60).

It’s one thing to be knighted by the Queen of England, but it’s something totally different to spend 10 minutes of interview time playing cards. Sir Richard Branson and Jeff Gazette go head-to-head in a delightful read (Off The Cuff, pg. 104).

In many ways, the stories within this issue were all brought together for the unified purpose to inspire you to experience the uncharted, the unique and the unassuming, to experience the exceptional; to go on an Escapade of your own.

Yet our feet cannot take us wherever we wish to be, so we will live the dangerous life, meet swashbuckling local heroes and travel on the high road vicariously through a magazine that I hope will stick around for a long time.

Nasser Romaithy Editor-In-Chief

h WHIC H OF THESE TRAVEL SNOBS AR E YOU? FIND OUT ON PG 102

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MYRIAM ZEGGAT

ESCAPADES • 22

Correspondents

Collaborators + Contributors

A few Escapades of our own...

We travel too, you know. So in the adventurous spirit of our takeoff issue, we asked a few of our staff, friends and correspondents: what's the best trip you've ever taken?

“Macchu Picchu was incredible. It was my first trip to South America and the beginning of adventure seeking thrills.”

—Nasser Romaithy, Editor-In-Chief

N.B.

“My first trip abroad landed me on the island of Mykonos. I’ve been dying to go back ever since.”

—Matt Chase, Design Director “London. I can never get enough London time.”

—Aisha Al Murad, Sales Manager

Z.L.

L.C.

Lucy Corne

Nile Bowie

Zack Lee

is a freelance writer with incurable wanderlust and a passion for the offbeat. Her itchy feet have taken her to over 40 countries across every continent but Antarctica. Some of her travel highlights include cleaning up panda poop in China, visiting the remote island of Tristan da Cunha, teaching Tibetan monks in India and meeting her husband on a Cairo to Cape Town overland adventure. As well as writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet, Dorling Kindersley and Bradt, her travel features have been published in a range of newspapers and magazines around the world.

is a history nerd, a political junkie, and a writer / photographer with an unquenchable thirst for traveling to obscure destinations. He grew up in New York City and left the U.S. in 2009, and has since reshuffled to Southeast Asia.

Bowie frequently travels, has a weekly column with Russia Today (RT), and has contributed op-eds to various websites and newspapers

is an aspiring flâneur who revels in getting lost in a mix of alleyways, jungle trails, restaurant tables, and train stations, taking photos along the way. He circumnavigated the world once, just missing a couple of steps in Africa and South America. Zack is originally from Manila, Philippines and currently lives in Vancouver, Canada working in higher education.

Zack regularly travels to Asia whenever he can and only occasionally blogs at scrapingthefringe.org.

@NILEBOWIE

@RIACALE

“Maldives—it was a spontaneous lastminute decision to jet across the globe to inaugurate a new resort.”

—Noah Gefen, Contributing Writer “I spent the summer of 2010 in Asia, and was captivated by some rural sections of mainland China, including a cruise of the Yangtze River.”

—Patrick Cummings, Contributor

@LUCYCORNE ILLUSTRATIONS BY MATT CHASE

ESCAPADES • 24

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Complimentary access to Wild Wadi Waterpark, once per stay per guest Exclusive access to the private beach at one of our hotels %20 off selected treatments and massages at Talise Spa Shuttle services to and from The Dubai Mall, Wild Wadi Waterpark and beach Complimentary buffet breakfast at select restuarants

For more information, visit jumeirah.com/jetweekend or call 0000 330 4 971+.

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COMPASS FIELD NOTES FOR THE WELL-TRAVELED

MAR/APR

Below Showcase of racing’s brightest stars at the Dubai World Cup h PG 27

2014

This Month

2 7 RACI N G

Saddle up for a night of racing at the Dubai World Cup

39 C U IS IN E

Come alive with Dead Body Soup and much more

41 PRO F ILE 2 9 FAS H I O N

Make heads turn—with or without a hat

Around the world with Orlando Bloom

43 BE AU T Y 3 1 L AUN CH

Oodles of sun, sand and sea—at the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah

3 3 S UR V I VA L

Do’s and Don’ts in a sand box attack

3 5 H OT S POT

Discover lodgings in above water bungalows right here in Dubai

Protect your skin with the innovative sun screen powder

45 U P IN T H E AIR

Etihad’s first ever “flying nanny”

47 E VE N TS

A look at expos that transformed host countries

49 E T IQ U E T T E

Being polite could be rude in some countries

The $10 million trophy

3 7 N UT R I T IO N

Moringa—trending new superfood?!!

ESCAPADES • 26

Live in concert at:

Dubai WorlD Cup

Prepare for world-class thoroughbred horse racing and a post-race star studded concert featuring Jennifer Lopez!

D BA WORU LD CIU P

Tickets start from AED 350. Upgrade for an additional AED 650 for Golden Circle tickets. Applicable to Dubai World Cup hospitality and Apron Views patrons only. Excludes General Admission.

Hospitality gates open at 2.00pm, first race starts at 4.30pm.

Book your tickets at meydan.ae or call +971 4 327 2110 Tickets will not be on sale on Dubai World Cup day.

Like us on facebook/dubairacingclub

CREDIT NEEDED

Racing

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And They’re Off ANDREW WATKINS

IN T H E LAN D WH E RE all equines trace their heritage, the thundering hooves of the world’s best racehorses will bring the turf alive at the pageantry of one of the world’s oldest sporting rituals.

The hallmark of the Dubai World Cup, held every year on the last Saturday in March at Meydan, is its effervescent atmosphere, where galloping speeds and celebrity spotting send the adrenalin rushing while chic fashion and magnificent millinery enthral the star studded venue.

Under the soaring crescent rooftop of Meydan looming over

the desert, you might be in for just elbow room, with the who’s who of the sporting world and jet setters jockeying for their seats at the world’s richest night of horse racing.

Just like the country that created it, the $1.25 billion Meydan is a blend of modern day marvel and futuristic vision. As the horses line up at the start, as the seconds tick for gates to open, the one question on 60,000 minds will be... who will win the $10 million race?

—PATRICK CUMMINGS

ESCAPADES • 28

Fashion

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To Hat or Not to Hat NADINE AL KOUDSI

WH E N IT C O M E S to headgear; hats are not to everyone’s taste. An occasion such as the Dubai World Cup, however, does demand that little bit extra; the glamour and flamboyancy which millinery offers. The good news is that there is a hat or fascinator for everyone.

Tip #1 h As a general rule, traditional wide-brimmed hats are especially suitable for older ladies, while the smaller, often feathered fascinators are seen to best effect on the under 40s.

Tip #2 h If you have a very colourful, or patterned dress, try to avoid overdoing it with the hat. Just picking one colour of the dress to replicate up top is the most effective.

Tip #3 h Hats which are tilted to one side are flattering for almost every face shape. Wear these with your hair pinned up to elongate the neck and produce a classy effect.

—LAURA KING OF DUBAI RACING CHANNEL

H Hats are obsolete when you exude flamboyance and style ESCAPADES • 30

fine dining without the starch introducing fine-casual dining experience heinz Beck at social, duBai’s newest restaurant and meeting point that offers fine-casual dining in an urBanresort setting.

now open at waldorf astoria dubai palm Jumeirah to Join us call +971 4 818 2222 or email us at social@waldorfastoria.com

PHOTO COURTESY WALDORF ASTORIA

Launch

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Waldorf Astoria The Palm Jumeirah

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T H E N E WLY O PE N E D Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah seems to have been created with the sun-seeker in mind. Given its prime location on what could be the sunniest part of the Palm, the hotel boasts an expansive private beach as well as two palm-fringed swimming pools, both within a stone’s throw of the sea. Even the rooms emit a sunny aura, their airy white and turquoise décor making you feel that the beach has followed you inside.

Cuisine is given just as much attention, with six exciting restaurants to choose from, including Social, the latest project by Michelin-star chef Heinz Beck. Luckily, outdoor activities are also on the agenda, with the Waldorf Astoria living up to its reputation of exceptional experience, offering tennis lessons, fishing or for the more adventurous guests, parasailing.

ESCAPADES • 32

Exceptional, indigenous, experience.

An alluring, golden desert landscape. The captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune driving and more.

LIFE IS A COLLECTION OF EXPERIENCES LET US BE YOUR GUIDE Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is a luxurious Bedouin encampment in the desert, 45 minutes from Dubai.

For more information please contact 971 4 8329900 or visit al-maha.com

Survival

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ZELJKO RADOJKO / SHUTTERSTOCK

When the Sandbox Attacks: How to Survive a Sandstorm I F YOU’V E EV ER experienced a sandstorm, you know it’s a torturous barrage of fast flying sand that feels like a tornado coupled with an exfoliation massage gone terribly wrong.

An ominous storm of dust and sand can wreak havoc everywhere in its path, plunging your world into darkness and making some of our most essential functions like seeing and breathing extremely difficult—and at times dangerous.

Leave the excitement of getting caught in a sandstorm for the actors who have a team of special effects on their side and follow our handy guide should you experience a similar fate.

With sandstorms an increasingly common occurrence across the majority of the arid world, it wouldn’t hurt to follow some do’s and don’ts when the surrounding sandbox attacks.

DO Treat a sandstorm like a blizzard and wait it out, preferably in an enclosed space where the sand can’t penetrate. If you’re out in the open, an object or landform like a boulder or large plant can help shield you against the wind and the sand.

• DON'T Confront the storm head-on for an adventurous selfie, despite how the photo may turn out after a few filters.

• DO Be inventive and repurpose clothing to cover your eyes and mouth. Keep your respiratory system clean by gritting your teeth to keep the bigger particles out. A towel or cloth moistened in water— held over your mouth—will be your temporary best friend.

• DON'T Rely on trendy shades to block the sand from getting into your eyes.

Your eyes will regret the decision to choose fashion over function.

DO Pull over to the side of the road if you’re in a car and turn off the engine. Make sure the cabin is as airtight as possible by rolling up the windows and closing the air vents.

Sit back, relax, and watch the chaos unfold in front of you.

• DON'T Drive into the storm or during one. Too much sand in your car’s air filter will quickly spell disaster, and the lack of visibility is likable to driving with your eyes closed.

• DO Should you find yourself out in the open at the mercy of the elements, head for higher ground.

The higher you are, the less dense the sand.

• DON'T Seek cover below a sand dune. The unlikely scenario of you being buried alive has just become likelier.

—NOAH GEFEN ESCAPADES • 34

Hot Spot

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Anantara The Palm PHOTOS COURTESY ANANTARA THE PALM

E XUDING THAI EXOT I CI S M ,

Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort and Spa boasts the Middle East’s first above-water bungalows.

While floating market boats toting tropical beverages glide across the lagoons, three wheeler tuk-tuks transport guests around the expansive premises, marking a truly unique lodging experience so far away from South East Asia. Following the success of their desert retreats in Abu Dhabi, including Qasr Al Sarab and Eastern Mangroves, the Palm Resort is an opulent urban beach getaway, and Anantara’s first venture in Dubai.

ESCAPADES • 36

T H E TA L E O F T H E H U N G R Y FA M I LY

T H E TA L E O F T H E H U N G R Y FA M I LY

sixsenses.com

OUT OF THE ORDINARY

Fo r r e s e r v a t i o n s : + 9 6 8 2 6 7 3 5 8 8 8 Fa c e b o o k . c o m / S i x S e n s e s Z i g h y B a y | Tw i t t e r. c o m / Z i g h y B a y

sixsenses.com Fo r r e s e r v a t i o n s : + 9 6 8 2 6 7 3 5 8 8 8 Fa c e b o o k . c o m / S i x S e n s e s Z i g h y B a y | Tw i t t e r. c o m / Z i g h y B a y

OUT OF THE ORDINARY

Nutrition

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SUCCESSO IMAGES / SHUTTERSTOCK

AÇAI, C O C O N U T WATER , S PIRU LIN A and now

The Giving Tree

Moringa?!!! One would believe that health food lovers have turned over a new leaf only recently, given their new found penchant for Moringa, but the plant has been a favorite of the ancient elite - from Egyptian pharaohs to Greek philosophers.

Studies show that Moringa leaves contain everything essential for a healthy diet and promise to deliver boosts of energy, immunity and metabolism. Even if Moringa doesn’t end up being the panacea it promises to be, its extensive nutritional portfolio makes it a versatile superfood that tastes great in its raw form (peppery spinach taste), or dried, sprinkled into smoothies or prepared as a potent tea.

Where you’ll find it h

Fresh Moringa leaves are hard to come across in regions where it does not grow but dried powder, tea and supplements can be found online and in health food stores.

ESCAPADES • 38

Cuisine

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Foods That Shouldn’t Taste Good, But...Do?

to name a couple), sweetbreads are one of those foodstuffs you perhaps shouldn’t think about too much. Don’t be fooled by their cakey name—this is not something you want to eat for dessert or as part of afternoon tea. Sweetbreads are in fact the thymus gland of a calf or lamb—a highly prized piece of offal. Served a wealth of ways around the world, in fine dining they’re usually poached in milk, breaded and fried and when done well can almost live up to their charming name.

We brave the world’s wackiest culinary delights

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Deep fried grasshoppers, beating cobra hearts, scorpion on a stick, or a whole sheep’s head eaten out of the skull—for some seasoned travellers, the weirder the cuisine, the better. But beyond these “fear factor” foods that make for interesting travel tales and fun Facebook photos, there are weird eats across the globe that actually taste good. Here are five foods that sound all wrong, but taste so right.

Dead body soup South Korea OK, so this is not the dish’s official title and its Korean moniker does not translate as anything corpse-related. This scary name actually stems from an urban legend in which Korean students studying abroad were questioned by local police when neighbours thought they smelt the aroma of rotting flesh wafting under the door. In fact they were simply cooking Cheonggukjang, a soup prepared with fermented ILLUSTRATION BY MATT CHASE

soybean paste and plenty of chilli. The result might smell a little like a pair of sneakers you ran a marathon in without any socks, but if you can get past the aroma, and you enjoy plenty of flavour and plenty of spice, you might just find Dead Body Soup to be a delicious, hearty and very affordable lunch.

Mole poblano Mexico It sounds like something you might cook up the day before

payday or when you haven’t had chance to get to the shops.

You get home, realise you have virtually nothing to eat and so you empty the contents of your fridge into a pan: chilli, garlic, raisins, onions, tomatoes, nuts, chicken and chocolate. When the ingredients are listed this meal appears an atrocious concoction, but in fact it is one of Mexico’s most indentifying dishes, notoriously difficult to make and revered by foodies everywhere. Mole poblano sounds wrong, it looks wrong and it tastes like what it is—a complex dish featuring more ingredients than a supreme pizza and that has taken hundreds of years to perfect. Genius on a plate.

Sweetbreads Worldwide Of all the foods featured here, sweetbreads is the one most often found in fine dining.

And like other haute cuisine ingredients (foie gras and caviar

Deep-fried Mars Bar Scotland Invented in a Scottish chip shop, the Deep Fried Mars Bar sounds like something that started as a late-night craving and should have remained that way. It’s a bold idea—you take one of planet Earth’s least healthy foodstuffs, a creation loaded with calories, sugar and fat, then you devise a way to make it even less healthy. The chocolate bar is coated in the type of batter usually reserved for fish, then deep-fried. The result? A deliciously gooey mess tasting something like a chocolate pastry—a taste so good in fact that you can forgive the 420 calories each serving contains.

Poutine Canada French fries, cheese curds and meaty gravy. When you first hear about Canada’s best-known snack, it just sounds wrong, like something you would only eat as a broke university student, when there’s not much else to be found in the fridge. But give this fast-food a chance and you’ll understand what your high school maths teacher was talking about when they said that two negatives create a positive.

The perfect poutine is all about layering and it’s all about love.

The fries must be golden, the gravy rich and the cheese curds squeaky between your teeth.

—LUCY CORNE

ESCAPADES • 40

Profile

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World Traveller: Orlando Bloom

my destination I like to hit the gym as I find exercise helps combat jet lag.

What is in your carry-on case?

I like to keep it simple, so I tend to use a black weekend bag or a small black wheelie (suitcase). I generally travel with my laptop, a couple of great books and my iPod. Your favourite international destination?

That’s a hard one as it completely depends on what I want to do and what season it is. When we’re based in LA—you can’t beat the Caribbean for complete relaxation, although it’s the smaller, lesser-known islands that we prefer. I also love places that are completely cut off from everything—where I can relax and enjoy the simplicity of nature. As a family, we also love to come to Sydney. I cherished my time filming Lord of the Rings in New Zealand; it’s the most beautiful, magical place with great hospitality.

Best city for food?

It really depends on the cuisine.

London does the best Sunday roast. Miranda (Kerr) and I love the seafood in Sydney, and the steaks in South Africa are amazing. It goes without saying New Zealand does the best lamb.

PHOTO COURTESY BRITISH AIRWAYS

O R L A N D O B L O O M talks family and favourite foodie cities.

How often do you travel?

Sometimes often, sometime not often at all—it depends on our work schedule. I will be in NY for over six months playing 'Romeo' in Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet on Broadway, directed

by David Leveaux.

What is the one thing you can't travel without?

Other than passport, a credit card and my iPhone, it would have to be a good book.

A weekend in London—what would you recommend?

London is one of the most exciting cities in the world with a melting pot of cultures and diversity. Not to mention some of the world’s best theatre at the West End and exhibitions at V&A and Natural History Museum.

Best travel advice?

Check in with the crew onboard for tips on places to go at your arrival destination, they always seem to know the best things to see and do, and what’s current.

Top tips for travelling with children?

Prepare and make it fun for them.

How do you combat jetlag?

The key thing for me is to avoid alcohol, drink lots of water and adjust my sleep to the time zone I’m entering. When I arrive at

Where would you love to travel that you have never been?

I would love to take (two-yearold son) Flynn to see the Pandas in Chengdu.

What is your earliest memory of flying?

As a child, I had the opportunity to meet the Captain onboard a British Airways flight. It was so exciting to see the cockpit and controls, I was in awe of the Captain and he stamped my log book which I still have to this day.

Where do you consider home to be?

Wherever my family is.

ESCAPADES • 42

Beauty

THE

Skin Savior

PHOTOS COURTESY COLORESCIENCE, PETER THOMAS ROTH, BAREMINERALS

The greasiness, the clogged pores, the mask of white that lingers however hard you try to rub it away—if the downsides of sunscreen are almost enough to make you want to go without, say hello to the latest innovation in skin protection: sunscreen powder.

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A Few Brands We Suggest: h

Peter Thomas Roth

BareMinerals SPF30

Instant Mineral SPF45

Natural Sunscreen

$30 • sephora.com

$50 • amazon.com

H ColoreScience Sunforgettable SPF30 $29 • amazon.com

Whether you’re ushering in the winter months up north, or basking in the southern hemisphere’s summer sun, sunscreen is an absolute essential. Instead of slathering on layers upon layers of cream sunscreen powders offer heavy protection without the muss. Containing micronised zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the powder acts as a physical rather than chemical barrier, sitting on top of the skin to prevent the sun’s rays from reaching you.

The powders come in a range of shades, and are applied with a light brush, meaning they can even double as make up. Gone are the days of slathering on the sunscreen underneath foundation or worrying about slapping on more as the days goes on.

The powders are light, give a matte finish and even absorb excess oils, meaning that reapplying sunscreen just became as appealing as it is necessary.

ESCAPADES • 44

Up In The Air

THE

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High— Flying Nannies PHOTOS COURTESY ETIHAD

A FOR WAR D T H INKI N G

airline has realised caring for little ones is not child’s play. Last September, Etihad introduced an on-board service designed to take care of that most unpredictable element of your entourage, the one that you love most, but can control the least.

Flying Nanny, a concept conceived by Etihad, makes the flight stress-free for parents and memorable for children. The

Nannies, identified easily by bright orange aprons, are trained in the gentle art of distraction to keep the little ones amused while on board. They will teach children to create greeting cards, transform paper cups into hats, and socks into puppets. For older children, it could be a quiz or a tour of the galley.

You will not be able to jettison your child to the flight attendant for the entire flight though. The

airline adds a disclaimer saying, “We can’t take them off your hands completely, as we must cater to the needs of every family onboard.” Also, flying nannies will not carry out personal care routines for your infant or child, such as nappy changing or taking them to the washroom.

Quiet Time h

What if you were travelling without kids, and wish to have peace and quiet? Well, there are airlines that are starting to offer “child-free zones” which ensure you are not straddled by a noisy child or a bawling infant.

ESCAPADES • 46

Events

THE

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Expo 2020 A brief look at a century's worth of World’s Fairs

MARAT DUPRI / SHUTTERSTOCK

h

Globally, the Expo has been the showcase for new inventions that have changed the world. As Dubai gets set to play host for the Expo 2020, here’s a look at the highlights of some of the earlier expos and their indelible mark in the annals of history.

W H I L E M A N Y of the structures and installations built for Expos are designed to be temporary, some have stood the test of time.

Undoubtedly the most famous of these is the Eiffel Tower, built in 1889 for Paris’s Exposition Universelle.

• O N E O F T H E world’s most important inventions was introduced to a global audience at the 1876 Expo in Philadelphia, USA—the telephone. Alexander Graham Bell’s communication milestone was unveiled alongside some other well-known innovations, including the typewriter, root beer and Heinz ketchup.

M O N T RE AL, CAN ADA,

chose an interesting way to ensure that the legacy of the 1967 Expo lived on—they named their new baseball team after the event.

The Montreal Expos continued to play until 2004, when the team was moved to Washington D.C. The moniker did have a longer-lasting reach though—it was at the Montreal event that World’s Fairs began to be known simply as Expos.

• T H E FAM O U S Disney attraction ‘It’s a small world’ was first designed for the 1964 World’s Fair in New York. The ride showcased new animatronic technology and its theme of

children from around the world playing together encompassed the World’s Fair ethos. The original attraction was moved to Disneyland in California, while replicas were made for Disney parks elsewhere and can still be visited today.

• S PE AKIN G O F D IS N EY, the Epcot Centre in Walt Disney World, Florida, is often referred to as a ‘Permanent World’s Fair’, its exhibits focusing on different countries and their cultures, as well as celebrating technological advancements.

ESCAPADES • 48

Etiquette

THE

Mother Knows Best—Except When You’re Traveling Five cultural lessons that are best forgotten when visiting certain countries around the world

h

‘Stand up straight’. ‘Don’t forget to say thank you’.

‘Use your indoor voice’.

Parents are full of advice for their offspring and for the most part, their words of wisdom are pretty useful. Until you start to travel that is—then suddenly the lessons you learnt in childhood aren’t just irrelevant—sometimes they’re downright detrimental. Here are five lessons your mum taught you that need relearning when you hit the road.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MATT CHASE

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1. A dozen red roses is a romantic gift While a dozen roses—or any other flower—might be considered the height of romance in some countries, in others you’re sending a more sinister message.

In Russia, Romania and Hungary, among others, even numbers of flowers are reserved solely for funerals, so if you’re wooing a sweetheart, ensure your bouquet contains an odd number of blooms. The colour of the petals is also crucial—red might be romantic in some places but red flowers will give the heebie-jeebies in Mexico and Hong Kong.

Yellow means separation in

I S SU E

Russia, white flowers in China are associated with death and in Egypt, flower-giving is strictly reserved for weddings, illnesses and funerals.

a few places where leaving a few bites will leave a good impression, while mum’s message of cleaning every mouthful is the thing to do in Japan, Kenya and much of Western Europe.

2. Everything is A-OK Innocent hand gestures can get you into far more trouble than your mouth ever could and it’s important to know that the shapes your fingers make don’t mean the same the world over. That cheerful finger-meets-thumb symbol you flash to mean ‘everything is OK’ is tantamount to raising your middle finger if you’re travelling in Brazil. Elsewhere the sign might not be so offensive, but it could certainly be confusing—in Japan it means ‘money’, while in France it’s the sign for ‘zero’.

And this is not the only hand signal that can spell trouble— when you’re travelling, take care with beckoning, pointing and even something as seemingly innocent as waving.

4. Look people in the eye While some countries value direct eye contact, considering it a sign of honesty and respect, trying to gaze into the eyes of the person you’re addressing is not the done thing the world over. In the United Kingdom, fleeting and sporadic eye contact is expected, but lingering looks during conversation can make people uncomfortable. The USA and many Western European nations value eye contact, but in Japan and Korea, locking eyes can be deeply awkward at best and profoundly threatening at worst.

3. Always clear your plate When I find myself in a restaurant with particularly generous portions, I curse my mother for bringing me up to eat every morsel on my plate. But polishing off each piece of food can bring more trouble than a tight belt and an expanding waistline—in some countries, scraping the plate clean tells your host that you haven’t been fed enough and can cause huge embarrassment or offence. Mexico, Egypt, Iran, Thailand and the Philippines are

5. Don’t make noises when you eat ‘Close your mouth’, ‘chew quietly’, ‘don’t slurp your soup’—sound pieces of advice in some parts of the world, but sometimes eating vociferously is not only OK, it’s actually encouraged. In Japan, slurping when you eat a bowl of noodles is practically expected.

Sucking in air and ending with a smack of the lips conveys a sense of enjoyment when it comes to liquid dishes like noodles and soup. You can also get away with audible eating in China and Korea, but don’t even think of trying it in polite British company.

—LUCY CORNE ESCAPADES • 50

IN A FEW WORDS WITH OUR

Sporting

THE

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IN SIDERS find “your” horse through the graphics we provide, and afterwards, get specific data about each horse.

Can we see Trakus at Meydan?

Yes. Trakus was installed at Meydan upon its construction in 2010.The massive infield board at Meydan is replete with our graphics and information.

The in-running tiles that move around on the screen are called “chicklets,” find your horse, or chicklet, and cheer like mad.

What do you offer on your DubaiRaceNight?

DubaiRaceNight.com offers analysis of each night of racing at Meydan, along with tips for the other meetings in the UAE, select international events, and tracks Dubai-based horses when they go overseas after the season. We have links to replays, access to phenomenal pictures, and much more. It’s a great place to follow the amazing animals that spend time in Dubai.

PATRICK CUMMINGS BUSINESS MANAGER AND DIRECTOR OF RACING INFORMATION TRAKUS • EDITOR, DUBAIRACENIGHT.COM

What is the Dubai World Cup all about?

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum set out to create the world’s most international race meeting, and he has succeeded.

In some years, horses from up to six continents competed on the

same day, either at the old Nad Al Sheba course, or the new one at Meydan. It’s like the United Nations, but mix in horses, friendship, fashion, and fun in one day—needless to say, much more exciting than the UN. Ha. Is it the richest day of racing in the world?

Absolutely. Over nine races on March 29, 2014, the top horses will share in winnings of more than US$27 million. Nowhere else in the world can rival it.

So what exactly do you do?

I’m the Business Manager and

ILLUSTRATION BY LINDSAY GILMORE

Director of Racing Information for Trakus, as well as the Editor of DubaiRaceNight.com. I typically travel about 100,000 miles a year keeping up with it all.

How did you get into horse racing?

Watching television as a child.

Everything I’ve wanted to do in life has revolved around racing.

I’m living the dream.

What is Trakus?

Trakus provides in-race tracking and data sourced to racecourses and broadcast partners. If you are on-course, you can easily

How can we get a piece of that?

Fortunately, the Dubai Racing Club runs free-to-enter contests on-site so if you get on a hot streak, you could win big.

So who will win on the big night?

I won’t settle on an opinion for any race until about two days prior, so check DubaiRaceNight. com for my analysis.

So who will win on the big night?

I won’t settle on an opinion for any race until about two days prior, so check DubaiRaceNight. com for my analysis.

ESCAPADES • 52

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A MEYDAN HOTELS EXPERIENCE ESCAPADES • 56

LUCY CORNE GOES ON SAFARI IN WESTERN INDIA,

TAKING IN THE MAJESTY OF THE DWINDLING PRIDES OF THE SELDOM- SPOTTED ASIATIC LION ear was in the air as we were herded towards the dry riverbed. Stumbling down a slope as I tried to keep the pace, I landed in the clearing and was instantly silenced by our guide. There, not 30 metres away, was a lioness calmly staring back at us.

It was never going to be a bog-standard safari trip. Even if you ignored the vehicle malfunctions and the dangerous scramble through dry woodlands, the location alone was going to make this game drive one to write home about. It took place not on the plains of Africa, but in a tiny, slightly dishevelled park in southern Gujarat, India.

In fact, I was so eager to write home about the experience that I didn’t even wait for the adventure to take place. But when I emailed friends and family declaring my plans to seek out lions in western India, I received ridicule in reply— much the same way as I had ribbed a travel buddy when she asked if we might spot tigers in Kenya. Admittedly, until recently I had no idea that the king of beasts wandered wild outside Africa, but just as my guidebook promised, we discovered the Gir National Park to be home to the world's last pocket of Asiatic lions.

We had arrived in the diminutive and dusty town of Sasan Gir earlier that day, intending to spend the afternoon recovering from the string of train rides that brought us here. But once we set out to research the costs of taking a tour of the national park, we quickly found ourselves forgetting the fatigue, instead jumping straight into a jeep. It had started as most things do for the traveller in India—with a bargaining session to try and determine what constitutes a fair price. Then just as we were going to mull things over and return the following day for a morning wildlife drive, a jeep arrived containing Danilo and Sophia, an amiable Italian couple, and their English-speaking guide Jevvy.

Jev vy—or James Bond as he preferred to be addressed— turned out to be the perfect guide. He was fun, knowledgeable and aware of the fact that while the park’s lesser animals offered

short-term interest, it was the king of the jungle that we had come to see. As our jeep trundled along the well-maintained dirt roads, he pointed out some of the park’s other inhabitants, including the chital—a spotted deer instantly reminiscent of Bambi—and grey langur, an ubiquitous monkey. But it was the larger residents that came as a surprise to me. This 1412 square kilometre park is not only home to lions, hyenas and leopards, it is also the territory of several thousand members of the Maldhari tribe. Maldhari literally means “owner of goods” and the goods in questions here are their livestock, particularly the buffalo. Lions wouldn’t seem the most ideal neighbours for a community of cattle herders, but man and beast have lived here in some measure of harmony for hundreds of years. Livestock are killed, of course, by opportunistic lions, but the herders are compensated for their losses. A bigger problem is the government’s perception that the farmers pose a threat to the lions. Hundreds of families have been relocated to lands outside the park in recent years.

But despite relocations, herders are easier to spot than the lions they coexist with, and we were particularly happy when we stumbled across some. Having been in the park for a little over two hours, we were beginning to wonder if Asiatic lions might be as tough to spot as a tiger in Africa.

The drive hadn’t been dull though—far from it. Fluffy langurs had held our attention for a fair while, clinging to Banyan trees, whose vine-like branches grow their own roots, giving the impression of a tree with dozens of small trunks. And then there was the entertainment provided by our guide and driver—the kind of carry-on that you’d seldom see on a more polished African safari.

Jevvy first left the jeep about 20 minutes in, wandering into the undergrowth in search of water to cool our ailing engine. Soon afterwards, both he and our driver, Suresh,

(SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL) OPENING PAGE: ANDAMANEC. THIS SPREAD, LEFT PAGE: NEELSKY. RIGHT: ADITYA JOSHI

leapt down from the vehicle to seek out footprints. We sat lion has been brought back from the cusp of extinction. baffled, especially when Jevvy returned alone, making no Today there are just over 400 examples in the Gir National comment of the driver he’d left in the undergrowth as he Park—meaning that outside of zoos, there are just over 400 took the wheel for a while. A flurry of phone calls followed, examples to be found in the entire world. The species is then two guides appeared seemingly from nowhere—no still listed as endangered and there are well-founded fears doubt somewhere there was a driver-less truck filled with that a single forest fire, a single outbreak of disease could equally baffled passengers. It was then that we encountered instantly relieve the planet of Asiatic lions for good. a group of Maldhari herders and our guides grinned at this This is not an issue that has gone unnoticed. In fact, chance meeting—these were exactly the people that could conservation groups have been campaigning to move a locate the lions we were longing to see. pride of the lions to a sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh for close Suresh reappeared but it quickly became evident that to two decades. The plan has been persistently blocked by we didn’t require his services for the next chapter of the the Gujarat government, keen to cling onto their state’s tour. Instead we were ushered off the jeep and into the ecological trump card. But in April of this year the Supreme forest with urgent calls of “Come on!” and “Hurry!” from Court stepped in and okayed the translocation. the guides as they cast furtive glances around. I’m not Gujarat might one day have to share its claim to fame, sure what I was expecting, but but even if the lions can be as I scrambled through the trees found elsewhere in India, the MY BREATH WAS QUITE and down a slight bank into a dry Gir National Park will continue LITERALLY TAKEN AWAY— riverbed, my breath was quite to draw in adventurous travelliterally taken away—mostly by lers with its dense undergrowth MOSTLY BY THE INSTANT the instant panic that set in. I and charming rough-aroundPANIC THAT SET IN had come here to see lions, but the-edges safaris. Our time in I wasn’t expecting to be on foot the park was almost over, but when I glimpsed a full-grown lioness just metres from me. not before a finale that would stay with us long after we’d The Asiatic lion is smaller than its African counterpart, moved on. As dusk set in and we trundled out, hoping that but not noticeably so when you’re a short leap away from our ancient jeep wouldn’t leave us stranded in lion country one. I managed to snap one fuzzy photo before our nervous overnight, we happened across another lioness. From the guides ushered us back up the slope to the relative safety safety of our open- top vehicle, we looked on as she played of our vehicle. Only then could I enjoy the experience, with her three cubs at the side of the road, watching until reliving it with a gusto I hadn’t quite mustered at the time. the dwindling light erased them from sight. For the sake of We suddenly realised how lucky we were to be here, how the species, and the enjoyment of the many travellers yet privileged we were to glimpse this oft-ignored species. to glimpse these elegant animals, I hope that conservation Thanks to successful conservation measures, the Asiatic efforts ensure they will never be erased altogether.

LUCY CORNE

ESCA P ES TO T H E U NDER R ATED

KO REA N TOW N OF

SUWON

FO R A DAY,

WITH ENOUGH TI M E TO G ET BAC K TO SEOU L FOR AN EVENING O F

kimchi A N D karaoke

ZACK Photos byLEE Z AC K L E E

61 • ESCAPADES

about South Korea’s capital is that there’s nothing going on. Seoul is never referred to as dull or quiet and never accused of lacking get-up-and-go.

But while the city itself is perpetually full of vim and vigour, too long spent in it can easily zap your energy. The flashing neon, the overwhelming choice presented by wall-to-wall eateries and the constant crush of people can be as suffocating as it is exhilarating. Luckily, it’s easy to escape the madness for a day and still be back in the city for an evening fix of kimchi and karaoke.

Although it has a population of over a million, Suwon somehow manages to exude a little small-town charm. Sitting 35 kilometres south of Seoul, the city is full of quintessentially Korean attractions that can easily keep visitors enthralled for the day.

The city’s proud history predates its most famous landmark by almost a millennium, but it is the Hwaseong Fortress that brings most tourists here. Constructed at the end of the 18th century, the reconstructed walls stretch for almost 6 km, encircling a section of the city. Walking the walls is a Suwon must and you can gain access at any of the gates or towers dotted around its circumference. We began our wandering at Yeonmudae, not only a convenient place to hop atop the

O N E T H I N G YO U C O U L D N E V E R SAY

fortress wall but also a spot to practice traditional archery for a small fee. After assuring myself that shooting arrows was not a hidden talent waiting to be unearthed, I took to the walls along with two friends visiting Korea for the first time.

Suwon is the perfect place for new arrivals to the country, offering a kind of mezze platter of Korean culture, history and sights all within an easy walk. Take the walls themselves, for instance—here you can fill your memory card with the obligatory temple roof shots that most visitors to Korea are drawn to. The traditional eaves are brightly painted, their ornate pink, red and blue designs contrasting perfectly with the mint green base. We stopped to get our fill of painted architecture against a vivid blue autumn sky before following the walls clockwise towards the city centre.

At times the wall can seem a little too pristine, and almost “Disneyfied” with its immaculate fluttering flags, but this UNESCO World Heritage Site had no choice but to undergo heavy reconstruction. Like most of Korea’s historical and architectural relics, Hwaseong was virtually destroyed during the Korean War and a massive regeneration project took place in the late 20th century. But today, despite the polished edges, you’ll still find some of the original charm and plenty of information ESCAPADES • 62

NEED TO KNOW GET THER E It’s around an

hour by bus or train to Suwon from Seoul—the train is recommended.

DO Plan your day trip around the various performances and interactive activities held at Hwaseong Haenggung, including martial arts displays, drama and changing of the guard ceremonies.

SE E Nearby is the Korean Folk Village (koreanfolk.co.kr), worth a visit for its demonstrations of everything from traditional farming to ceramic production and kimchi-making. There’s a free shuttle from Suwon’s tourist information office, located near the train station.

P LA N Visit eng.suwon.ne.kr for more information on Suwon.

panels telling you what you’re standing on and what you’re looking at.

It’s a fine blend of the past and the present— atmospheric turrets and watch towers that afford views over the Lego-like panorama of new Suwon, its crowning glory a loveit-or-loathe-it cathedral. The 20th-century Jeongjadong Cathedral seems to have come straight out of a Batman flick, with its imposing neo-gothic façade that dominates Suwon’s skyline.

Soon after the cathedral, steps lead you temporarily off the wall to explore Suwon’s bustling marketplace. Between stalls selling fresh produce, piles of earthy ginseng and typical Korean snacks like tteok (rice cake), is the impressive structure of Paldalmun—older and altogether prettier than Jeongjadong.

Paldalmun was one of the city’s main gates, protecting the southern entrance to the city.

Today surrounded by Korea’s omnipresent

traffic—both of the motor and foot varieties— it’s definitely worth a brief wander within.

We didn’t linger long though. Lunchtime was upon us and we had heard tales of Suwon’s gigantic mandu—steamed dumplings filled with a spicy pork mixture. We found a vendor in the shadow of Paldalmun and discovered that three of the fist-sized parcels was enough to propel us up the next section of the wall. I lost count of the steps as we climbed Mount Paldal, but never lost sight of the vistas or of what seemed like an original sensation in bustling Korea—quietness.

West of Paldalmun, the wall winds between trees, and the sound of traffic is replaced with birdsong. Autumn is the finest time to visit Korea, not only for its delightful display of russet and gold leaves, but also for the warm weather and clear, crisp skies. For many, Hwaseong’s western edge is the most interesting. From here you can see the expansive grounds of Hwaseong Haenggung, a palace built in 1794, and take time out to ring the Bell of Hyowon. Naturally we paid the small fee to ring the gargantuan bell. Tradition states you get three tolls—one to show gratitude and love to your parents, one to wish for happiness in family life and a third to request self-improvement.

Photogenic architecture continues to hold your gaze until you complete the circuit, passing the canal and pond at Dongbukgangnu—a favourite spot for photographers at sunset. It was here that we first noticed a bizarre form of transport pass by, filled with tourists grinning and waving. The Hwaseong Trolley shuttles those not up to walking the walls, its dragon-headed chariot following a set route around the city for a minimal fee. We were tempted to take the tour again just for the novelty value of the dragon-shaped train, but the effects of

the lunchtime mandu were wearing off and there was still one box to tick on our ‘Suwon Essentials’ tour.

Galbi, or ribs, is an ubiquitous dish throughout Korea, but Suwon’s galbitang (a soup made with beef ribs) is renowned locally.

Galbitang is found on menus throughout the city and is usually served in a communal bowl surrounded by the typical selection of Korean banchan (side dishes) to share. We sit down to a steaming pot of broth flavoured with hefty chunks of meat on the bone, and fill our faces with crunchy kimchi, dried anchovies with peanuts and steamed spinach sprinkled with sesame seeds. Side dishes get replenished whenever they’re emptied so by the time we throw in the towel, we feel in need of another circuit of the city to work it all off. Instead though we make for the train, feeling suitably revived and ready to face the pleasing mayhem of the capital once more.

IT’S A

FINE BLEND

present —ATMOSPH ER IC

OF TH E

past AND

TH E

TU R R ETS AND WATCH

TOWERS TH AT AF FORD VIEWS OVER TH E LEGO - LIK E PANOR AMA OF

NEW SUWON

MR. TOILET HOUSE Built as a private home, this eccentric toilet-shaped structure is now a museum dedicated to the humble commode. Its former owner, Sim Jae-duck, died in 2009, leaving his beloved toilet house to potty-loving members of the public. The one-time mayor of Suwon was reportedly born in a bathroom and had a life-long fascination with the smallest room in the house, founding the World Toilet Association General Assembly. Today his toiletshaped house is a homage to the lavatory, with exhibits highlighting toilets from around the world, the history of the latrine and featuring light-hearted sculptures in the grounds.

Suwon’s quirkiest sight is free to enter; access it by taxi from Suwon train station.

HAEWOOJAE.COM

ESCAPADES • 64

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TH E W ANDE R ER' S AS FORMER DREAM DESTINATIONS NOW HOVER ON THE BRINK OF ARMED CONFLICT, A RAG-TAG GROUP OF ADRENALINE JUNKIES ARE QUICK TO SHAKE OFF TRAVEL ADVISORIES IN FAVOUR OF DODGING MINEFIELDS AND SNIPER FIRE

WAR PA T H KOK LENG YEO

74 • ESCAPADES

mid heavy shelling and gunfire, the priority for war-scarred Syrians is survival, rather than the preservation of their 8,000-year-long history. At the time of writing, the conflict in Syria has resulted in an estimated death toll of 100,000 people, causing a mass exodus of Syrians to neighbouring Turkey and Lebanon.

The civil war began more than two years ago, and when it is a question of life or death, little can be said about whether Syria’s priceless cultural heritage can survive the unrest.

Vestiges of the country’s ancient capital are whittled away daily by the unrelenting battery of tanks; treasures from the glory days have been pawned off by ruthless looters; and centuries-old stone fortresses from long-forgotten wars are once again used as a bastion from the violence as the famous citadel of Aleppo falls under fire.

In the wake of conflict and unrest, tourism is a non-issue in war-torn Syria for the most part. Yet recently, global newswires have picked up the unusual story of Toshifumi Fujimoto, a truck driver who left his native Japan to document Syria's ongoing civil war. A self-confessed thrill seeker, Fujimoto relishes the uncertainty of life in a battlefield. He was in Yemen last year during demonstrations at the US Embassy, and in Cairo the year before that, during the ousting of longtime President Hosni Mubarak. Later this year, he plans to document life with the Taliban in still-rocky Afghanistan. Currently exploring Aleppo, Fujimoto admits that Syria is safer for tourists than journalists—although some would label his brand of rogue chronicling as a kind of citizen journalism.

Angelo Greco, founder of Vo1ce Project, a non-profit citizen journalism organisation, agrees. “It's no secret that the wave of citizen

journalism sweeping social and mainstream media has been identified as a catalysing force for reform, [by] giving a voice to those who may otherwise not have one,” he says, outlining the project’s reach in strife-ravaged countries like Colombia, Brazil, Myanmar and Mexico.

As a movement that serves to empower civilians at times of strife, Greco sees citizen journalism as a growing trend that has been slow to develop in conflict areas. “I felt that there were still areas of the world where this was only an aspiration—mostly because of the lack of resources, [or] ability for likeminded activists to connect. Secondly, the overwhelming tide of citizen journalism was poorly directed, and it was difficult to sort through all the noise,” he adds. “I wanted to create a space where new entrants had proper access, information, and an incentive to become responsible and well-versed citizen journalists and community activists.”

Greco himself has dived into uncertain conditions with gusto. Under different capacities, he has worked in Serbia, Bosnia and Kosovo, and the West Bank. Based in a refugee camp in Nablus, Palestine, at the tail end of the second intifada, Greco recalls his experiences with the sobriety the bloodstained history of the place demands. “Needless to say, I have witnessed a few acts of violence, collective punishment, incursions, and curfews,” he shares. “I had seen so many still shots of pain and suffering—and propaganda from both sides, quite frankly—that I thought working on pieces highlighting issues, then pointing to solutions was a better approach than just getting people angry over images of martyrs or tanks,” Greco says, recalling his experience with youth in the Balata refugee camp in the West Bank.

“SMALL NUANCES PLAY A KEY ANYWHERE YOU TRAVEL—BUT WHEN IT'S A PLACE WHERE YOUR PRESENCE CAN PUT YOU OR OTHERS AT RISK, THEN IT'S ESPECIALLY TRUE TO TAKE PRECAUTION.”

ESCAPADES • 75

"THE HUMAN DIMENSION REMOVES THE

“Palestine was an interesting place for me mostly because it was a hot-bed for all the issues I had been studying and interested in—conflict, development and history. The questions around attracting investment, overcoming stereotypes, and building meaningful, engaging projects that allowed people to take some sort of control of their destinies has always been important to me.”

Whether faced with political upheaval or socioeconomic failings, being in a war-torn country poses the obvious safety risk. Greco sees this as a nagging fear that is first ignored, but quickly grows as the departure dates looms ahead. “The fear of the unknown is half the battle. The other half is what you think you know. And that comes from your own research and reading, news media, and even first person accounts. Travelling opens up your perception to understand that most things are really never as difficult as you had imagined—mostly because being there, no matter how tough or far away, usually means being surrounded by people who are still living their lives everyday. The human dimension removes the fear that comes from isolation or being in a place where you may not be able to receive care.”

Babel Travel, a Swiss-based agency, prides itself on the danger factor, organising tours of six inaccessible places known more for their travel advisory warnings than guidebook appraisals. The destinations they target include Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, North 76 • ESCAPADES

Korea, Somaliland and Sudan, with plans to add trips to Yemen, Burma, Colombia, Sierra Leone and Liberia in the future.

Partnering with intrepid explorer Robert Young Pelton, author of The World's Most Dangerous Places series of books, and founder of Comebackalive.com, the travel agency promises adventure-rich itineraries and the highest level of security through a comprehensive insurance plan. Beyond baggage loss and trip cancellation insurance, these trips require additional protection against kidnapping and terrorist attacks.

Pelton sees these trips as a way of democratising adventure so that it is accessible to anyone—at a price. This kind of adventure travel is risky by nature, allowing the whitebread middle class to strap on a backpack and venture forth in the footsteps of Jacques Cousteau or even Pelton himself.

FE A R

THAT COMES FROM ISOLATION OR BEING IN A PLACE WHERE YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO RECEIVE CARE.”

PRECAUTIONARY TALE Despite his admirable stints in war-torn destinations, Greco highlights the importance of staying safe. “Safety is always a concern, but I think it's important to understand the types of environments you are getting yourself into. To make sure you're in constant contact with your personal network. And to always understand that you are a visitor—no matter how low-key your presence may seem.

It's crucial to never take anything as a given, nor to assume any cultural norms. Small nuances play a key anywhere you travel—but when it's a place where your presence can put you or others at risk, then it's especially true to take precaution.”

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WA R -T O R N 1 PA R T II

W A LK ING NILE BOWIE EXPLORES THE OTHERWORLDLY LANDSCAPE OF SOCOTRA, OFF THE EAST COAST OF YEMEN

N A MO G DRAG O NS 78 • ESCAPADES

VLADIMIR MELNIK / SHUTTERSTOCK

AS THE SMALL PLANE BEGAN ITS DESCENT AND THE FIRST GLIMPSES OF MY DESTINATION CAME INTO VIEW, A DEEP SENSE OF INTRIGUE WASHED OVER ME, SOMETHING DEEPER THAN THE USUAL EXCITEMENT AND CURIOSITY THAT TRAVEL INEVITABLY BRINGS. I WAS LANDING in Socotra, an isolated island found in the archipelago of the same name near the Horn of Africa, and a territory of the Republic of Yemen. The late afternoon sun gave an otherworldly atmosphere to the desolate mountains, their purplish sand surrounded by lonely seas. This ethereal landscape, with its cascading shadows and majestic terrain, would be a fitting habitat for bizarre creatures of the imagination. Indeed, as the little plane touched

down at the island’s airport, a single airstrip near the sea, my eye was drawn to a row of twin peaks peppered with the most curious vegetation I’ve ever laid eyes on. These sweeping rocky peaks and the incredible ecological structures that dominated them gave me a feeling of truly being somewhere different, somewhere very far from the beaten track.

I had spent a few days in Yemen’s capital, Sana’a. Here the winds of revolution had recently blown through, evident in the buildings ridden with bullet-holes. But despite the travel advisory warnings and the noticeable prominence of firearms everywhere you turn, the allure of Sana’a pulled me towards it.

Yemen is a war-torn destination, with Shi’a rebels in the north, militant separatists in the south, and a weak central government that oversees a politically polarized population.

The fervor of the Arab Spring found its way to Yemen in 2011, leading to the deposing of long-ruling strongman Ali Abdullah Saleh.

The tourism industry has nearly dried up due to political instability—a real pity since Sana’a is one of the great Arab cities, one of the cradles of civilisation, and home to some of the world’s oldest multistoreyed structures.

These great towers of stone and clay have been continually inhabited for hundreds of years, and in rural areas, little seems to have changed since the time of the Prophet and the Qur’an.

Fortunately, political instability never spilled over to Socotra, but as a result of volatility on the mainland, the island’s tourism industry has been left barren. “Nobody comes here since the revolution. We used to have a few hundred visitors every year, now we only get five or six,” said Sami, a local tour guide, over a walk across a lonely stretch of beach. We came to a makeshift fish market, where men of Arab and Somali features ripped bunches of salmon and swordfish from the sea, and dragged them on the rocky shore to sell under a crude wooden pavilion. The language spoken by the merchants was Socotri, an ancient Semitic language spoken by a few thousand people at most. A third of Socotra’s plant life— some 700 species—is found nowhere else, and its people are from a DNA lineage unique to the archipelago. Lifestyles and fashion are ESCAPADES • 79

THE DRAGON BLOOD TREE (DRACAENA CINNABARI) Instantly recognisable and endlessly photogenic, Socotra’s emblematic tree has often been likened to an elaborate umbrella or a particularly plump mushroom.

But this endemic plant is more than just a pretty face, for it is not what’s on the outside, but what lies within that gives this tree its fantastical moniker… h The deep red sap for which the tree gets its name produces a resin that was highly prized by early civilisations, who used it as a cure-all medicine, a clothes dye and even a natural form of lipstick. h The sap is still used today as a dye and sometimes as a varnish, particularly used for violins.

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h The tree’s narrow, tapered leaves are said to aid in combatting flatulence when chewed! h Sweet-smelling green or white flowers appear near the start of the year, usually in February. h Dragon Blood Trees also bear an orange-red berry-like fruit that is a favourite snack for local birds. h The densely packed branches provide a canopy—a way for the tree to thrive in desert climates.

The canopy gives much needed shade, helping to combat evaporation. h The leaves can grow up to 60cm long and around 3cm wide.

They also work to aid the tree’s survival in arid climates, their waxy surface ensuring that morning dew runs down to the trunk and roots.

NEED TO KNOW

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): VLADIMIR MELNIK, ASAF ELIASON, ANTON BALAZH, OLEG ZNAMENSKIY

GE T T H ERE Yemenia Airways has three flights per week to Socotra from Dubai.

EAT Fresh bread with hummus and foul.

D O Take to the seas for some superlative snorkeling and Scuba diving.

S E E As well as Dragonblood Valley, the island’s pristine beaches are a must.

S TAY There are small hotels in Hadibo.

Elsewhere expect to stay in tents.

P L A N Contact Socotra Eco Tours to start planning a trip (socotra-eco-tours.com).

h Yemen’s coins bear a fascinating symbol of national pride that no other country can lay claim to—the dragonblood tree (Dracaena cinnabari).

what one would expect from a traditionally of Socotra’s rural plains depends heavily on the conservative and isolated Muslim population; sale of dragon blood sap and frankincense. I although geographically close to the globalisasat under the stars one evening, where vibrant tion hubs of Dubai and Doha, the vast majority and spectacular views of the galaxies could of Socotran people live in the ways of their be seen with clarity, and burned some of the ancient forefathers. frankincense I obtained from a young goat After a grueling hike into the hills, I came herder who lived high in the hills. It crackled upon an unearthly valley that overlooked a in the small fire, giving off a smoky aroma of canyon. The grandeur of the vista and expanpine, lemon and earth. sive depth of that chasm had a uniquely prehis I shared a bowl of foul (boiled fava beans toric ambience that I have never encountered with spices), freshly baked bread, and a deepbefore or since. I half expected a dinosaur fried salmon with local men at one of the to roam into view, but instead of dinosaurs, island’s only restaurants in the main village there are dragons. of Hadibo. We ate The dragon-blood candlelight, not MY EYE WAS DRAWN TO A ROW OF by tree, shaped like an for atmosphere TWIN PEAKS PEPPERED WITH THE but because the umbrella caught in MOST CURIOUS VEGETATION I’VE supply of electricity the wind, dotted the hills of the canyon is unstable at best.

EVER LAID EYES ON and the surrounding As we munched, valley. Their dense silvery trunks emerged we discussed Yemeni history and politics. from the arid rocky surface, supporting bare Yemen was once divided into north and root-like branches topped with a few dozen south, with Socotra belonging to the Socialist leaves resembling enlarged blades of grass. south. Paintings of the old flag of the People’s When punctured, the trunk seeps red sap, said Democratic Republic of Yemen can be seen to be the blood of ancient reptile beasts that throughout Socotra; and many of the island’s local legend insists once walked the island’s inhabitants feel neglected by the central surface. It has been used throughout history government in Sana’a, and long for autonomy. as a dye, and also in cosmetics and medicine.

It is difficult to ponder what Yemen’s long Other notable species were the desert rose term future can bring, but given the fragile tree, with a short trunk as thick as several stability of the nation, many are too hesitant Roman pillars that thinned out like a rain over security matters to even think about drop toward the top of the structure, marked visiting. For what it’s worth, adventurous with stubby branches and bright pink flowers. sightseers can book flights to Socotra from Small bulbs of tree bark topped with tiny leafthe UAE, via Sana’a. While security issues may less branches could be seen peculiarly rooted prevent Yemen from attracting the amount of into bare rock on the faces of huge cliffs; the visitors that it should, Socotra is the safest part larger species of this plant resembles flowing of country, and it is an ecological jewel that wax on a melting candle. should not be missed.

The island’s name originates from the Arabic “suq” meaning “market” and “qotra” meaning “dripping frankincense,” and just as it has been for thousands of years, the economy ESCAPADES • 81

THE

NEW

ADVENTURES

OF

OLD

HONG KONG

PRASEEDA NAIR delves into Hong Kong’s lantern-lit streets,

overlooking the once sampan-strewn historic Hong Kong harbour

for down-and-out pirates of the South China Seas, a bargaining chip during the Opium wars, a tabula rasa for Her Majesty’s humble servants stationed outpost—there’s something interminably romantic about Hong Kong’s illustrious past. Like most port cities, it has grown into a historically vibrant cultural mélange, evolving to weather the turbulence of sub-tropical typhoons and economic crises alike.

CHANGE IS THE ONLY CONSTANT Between clan wars and trade disputes, Hong Kong as we know it today was born as a port of call for conflict resolution. When China’s Qing dynasty government was defeated in the First Opium War in 1842, it ceded the island to Britain. In the following 60 years, Kowloon, the land further inwards known as the New Territories, and 235 islands peppering the map of the South China Sea were tacked on to the lease for British rule. In the early 20th century, a deluge of immigrants, mainly refugees from China, reconfigured the city’s demographic and propelled a new identity for Hong Kong as a manufacturing nucleus. With the ‘handover’ in July 1997, post-colonial Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region under China, repositioning itself as a service-based economy in line with Mainland China’s increasingly open economic policy.

As a SAR, Hong Kong retains many of its pillars under colonial rule, including its capitalist laissez-faire economic system, independent legal framework, and freedom of speech and press. With every new turn, the city has reinvented itself while retaining the same robust entrepreneurial spirit that had initially transformed a hodgepodge of unassuming fishing hamlets into a landmark of international trade.

CULTURAL CROSSROADS Bordered by prominent green mountains, over 140 skycrapers tower over the city’s expansive harbour, adding new meaning to the phrase ‘concrete jungle’, where the natural world and the built environment have fused together in symbiosis. Glazed obelisks peek out from beyond the winding landscape carpeted by verdant flora true to the city’s subtropical clime.

Without a doubt, if Hong Kong’s story reads like a bildungsroman, its leitmotif would be ‘fusion’. Millions throng the streets during rush hour, moving like a monolith with a mind of its own. If dissected, the crowd is made up of highly distinctive people, each emblazoning personal style in an effort to stand out in one of Asia’s most populous cities. Between purple mohawks and Armani suits, the average resident can navigate the byways of Causeway Bay with the greatest of ease, plugged in and zoned out in an iPod-induced bubble of their own. Massive interactive billboards around Times Square blare advertisements every 30 seconds, but no one dares to look up, as a brief second is all it takes for even an exceptional crowd navigator to lose momentum and get lost in the sea of people. In the throng, the cultural richness of the city becomes evident, as you catch the tail end of a joke in Cantonese, the beginning riff of a Korean pop song, a 84 • ESCAPADES

hearty conversation in Hindi, among other facets of quotidian interaction in a multicultural city.

The ease with which these languages and Chinese dialects co-exist is the biggest indicator of fusion in Hong Kong, where churches share space with temples, mosques, and synagogues.

Ancient beliefs and practices have endured in this city of constant change, where you’ll find people practicing tai chi in Nike shoes, elderly women playing mahjong on their electronic tablets, and where gravity-defying skyscrapers are designed in accordance to the principles of feng shui. And as neon lights flicker on through the stalls in Jardine’s Bazaar at sunset, double decker trams trundle along the narrow streets, disappearing into the quiet residential haven of historic Happy Valley. No true ‘Hong Konger’ would bat an eyelid at the anachronistic nature of the city. No true ‘Hong Konger’ would call themselves that to begin with.

Getting there FLYING IN

As an Asian trade and tourism hub, there are numerous carriers that fly directly to Hong Kong.

Cathay Pacific is the local carrier, and is world class in its routing and facilities.

VISAS

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): TUNGCHEUNG, LEE YIU TUNG, SONGQUAN DENG, SAIKO3P, EDDY GALEOTTI

Over 100 nationalities can receive visas on arrival. Check www.immd.gov.hk for more information.

Getting around Hong Kong is a highly connected city with advanced transport infrastructure. On arrival, your best bet would be to purchase an Octopus Card, a stored-value electronic card that can be topped up for use across almost all modes of transportation in the city, as well as purchases in convenience stores, fast food restaurants, supermarkets, photofinishing kiosks, movie theatres, public pools, car parks and more. The card can also be used for select services in Shenzhen (mainland China), and Macau.

FROM THE AIRPORT The high-speed metro rail, Airport express, is the fastest way to get to the city from the airport, clocking less than half an hour to traverse the distance.

While the airport buses are significantly cheaper and extensive in its routing, the commute can take two to three times longer than the Airport Express.

Tickets: HKD 100 per journey, or HKD 200 or HKD 300 Airport Express Travel Pass to enjoy one or two single journeys on the Airport Express as well as three consecutive days of unlimited travel on the city metro rail (MTR), the light rail and MTR Bus.

IN THE CITY MTR

FERRIES

The labyrinthine metro network system, the MTR, includes ten rail lines and a connected light rail system in the New Territories.

It’s the best bet for daily commuters and explorers alike.

Crossing Hong Kong’s iconic Victoria Harbour is a must-do activity when visiting the city.

The historic Star Ferry has been operational since 1888, and since then, more extensive ferry systems have been put in place to connect Hong Kong Island to Kowloon and the outlying islands. The scenic islands include Cheng Chau, Lantau Island, Peng Chau, Lamma Island, Discovery Bay and Ma Wan Island.

TAXI

Red taxis operate on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, while green taxis are operational in the New Territories, and blue taxis are in Lantau Island. All taxis are metered and regulated by the city’s transport department.

For the first two kilometres in the city, the flat rate is HKD 20.

Subsequent 200 metres are charged HKD 1.50 thereon.

BUSES AND MINIBUSES

Bus routes cover most of the city. The larger buses run along specific routes with fixed fares based on distance travelled.

Minibuses can carry around 16 passengers per journey.

Green-top minibuses follow a fixed route under fixed pricing, while red-top minibuses run along routes that are subject to change, while affording passengers the flexibility to get on or off anywhere along the route.

TRAMS

These double-decker streetcars have been trundling through Hong Kong Island’s busiest roads since 1904. Passengers enter the tram from the back entrance, and exit at the front after paying.

Tickets: Each ride costs a flat

fare of HKD 2.30 regardless of the distance.

SEE+DO →

Between Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and 235 outlying islands, the city spans 1042 square kilometres, housing over seven million residents.

KOWLOON WONG TAI SIN

The stately temple attracts millions of Taoists yearly as a site of religious significance.

Fortune telling through kau cim is another crowd-puller, where wooden sticks engraved with predictions are shaken in a bamboo cup. Even for the sceptic traveller, the temple is a must-see attraction for its majestic architecture and fascinating prayer rituals alone.

Nearest MTR: WONG TAI SIN A BIRD’S EYE VIEW

The China Clipper, an upscale lounge that recalls the pioneering days of Asian flight, offers helicopter tours for the adventurous and profligate traveller. From the rooftop helipad, patrons can enjoy aerial tours of the city, arranged either through Peninsula Hotel (which houses The China Clipper), or through Heliservices, the charter company.

Tours start at a minimum of HKD 850 for a 15-minute excursion.

Nearest MTR: TSIM SHA TSUI Caption about ferry and/or harbour/shoreline of city

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HONG KONG ISLAND ROOF TOP THRILLS

The landscaped rooftop of Central’s waterfront mall, the glitzy International Financial Centre (IFC), is ringed with high-end bars and restaurants, such as H One and Red. For those on a budget, the plush sofas, tables and chairs placed outside these joints are for public use, meaning that you could enjoy stunning city views and an impromptu rooftop picnic. Nearest MTR: CENTRAL

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): DHOXAX, SAIKO3P, GYN9037, SHAUN JEFFERS, VICKY JIRAYU, EARLYTWENTIES

THE PEAK

Everything you’ve heard about Hong Kong’s dynamism and energy is dramatically reaffirmed by the view from the Peak. Looking down at the city from this famous vantage point, the city’s skyline could put any other’s to shame, with majestic mounts to the north of the city and the rest of China stretching languidly beyond. Taking the 125-year-old Peak Tram from its terminus on Garden Road, the best time to visit the Peak would be a little before sunset for a picture-perfect panorama. Nearest MTR: CENTRAL

EVER UPWARD

Hong Kong is the skyscraper capital of the world, hosting over 1,200 towering monuments of concrete and steel. 36 of the 100 tallest buildings around the globe reside throughout Hong Kong’s narrow urban corridor.

BEYOND PO LIN MONASTERY AND BIG BUDDHA

Lantau Island’s Tian Tan Buddha and Po Lin Monastery are sandwiched between rolling green mountains and the blustery South China Sea. A 34-metre seated bronze Buddha, the largest of its kind in the world, looms over the monastery above a three-tier altar, featuring an assortment of Buddhist relics. The majesty of the bronze Buddha against the mid-morning sky has inspired countless paintings and photographs as icons of Hong Kong’s outlying islands.

TAI O

Once known as the Venice of Hong Kong, Tai O was a prominent fishing village on stilts, situated on Lantau Island. While many residents continue to fish, it barely provides a subsistence income, which has encouraged most of its residents to move to the city. The Old Tai O Police Station, a historic building in its own right, has been turned into a boutique hotel called the Tai O Heritage Hotel by the Hong Kong Heritage Conservation Foundation for those interested in exploring the village in detail, or keen on spotting Chinese white dolphins.

Nearest MTR: TUNG CHUNG CHEUNG CHAU

A ferry ride and a world away from Hong Kong Island, Cheung Chau offers a slice of old world charm in a relaxing subtropical atmosphere. Right off the waterfront, visitors will find a street market hawking traditional wares along narrow alleyways, piquant in its sights, sounds and smells. A cultural visit to the 18th-century Pak Tai temple, a leisurely stroll along the beach, a quick bicycle ride around the island, or a rustic seafood meal at a harbour-side hotpot restaurant are just a few things a day trip to Cheung Chau could offer.

Ferries to the island can be taken at Pier 5 in Central.

Nearest MTR: CENTRAL 88 • ESCAPADES

DRAGON GARDEN

As one of the few remaining privately owned parks in the city, Dragon Garden is famous for a multitude of reasons.

Firstly it took philanthropist Lee lu-cheung over 20 years to design and mould the 8-hectare property—incorporating opulent pavilions, lofty archways and innovative water fountains decked with classical sculptures.

Since its international debut as a backdrop for the 1974 James Bond classic, The Man with the Golden Gun, the garden has sunken back into exclusivity, as the private property is only open to the public once a month.

ABOVE: “Lucky buns” are a staple of the annual Cheung Chau Bun Festival.

LEF T: The floating village of Tai O

RIGHT PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF THE PENINSULA, WIKI COMMONS

CHECK IN LEFT PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): STRIPPED PIXEL, GUOZHONGHUA, AMYBBB

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As the third corner of the NyLonKong trio, Hong Kong boasts thousands of hotels, inns, and hostels for the extravagant and budget-conscious alike.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HONG KONG

Skip the winding lines and hassle of going through the motions when you arrive at Hong Kong International Airport with the Four Seasons Airport Transfer service. Kick starting your vacation with hassle free transfers, staying at the Four Seasons offers wall-to-wall views of the city’s skyline. The hotel’s spa services and breathtaking infinity pool overlooking the harbour are some of the city’s well-guarded secrets, even for residents looking for a luxury staycation over a long weekend.

8 Finance Street, Central 852 3196 8888 fourseasons.com/hongkong

THE PENINSULA

As one of the oldest hotels in Hong Kong, The Peninsula has seen the city change over eight decades. Now, the hotel is a mishmash of old world kitsch and modernity, offering guests a helicopter service, which ushers them from the airport to the hotel’s China Clipper lounge in less than 15 minutes. In terms of its location, the hotel is smack dab in the middle of Kowloon’s shopping haven, Tsim Sha Tsui, and opposite the Cultural Centre and the Museum of Art. Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong • 852 2920 2888 • peninsula.com/hongkong THE SALISBURY

More for budget traveller, this inconspicuous hotel is run by the YMCA of Hong Kong to put up short-term vacationers and backpackers. While being right in the thick of the city’s vibrant nightlife, the hotel offers the same geographic proximity and convenience as other leading harbour front hotels in Kowloon at quarter of the price.

41 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui 852 2739 9315 • ymcahk.org.hk

Serving its world famous roast goose, Yung Kee restaurant offers personalised service, complete with ushers and doormen ready to take your pre-order so that piping hot dishes reach your table when you do. Favourites include roast goose livers, tiny ricebirds, and hairy crab.

32-40 Wellington Street, Central • yungkee.com.hk

TOBIK, LISOVSKAYA NATALIA, ZHU DIFENG, HOHOHO108

CUISINE

A GOOD ROAST

MAN WAH boasts 360 degree views of the city, serving crowdpulling dishes like tiger prawn dumplings, Shanghainese soup dumplings, and ‘Man Wah-style fried noodles’.

Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road, Central • 852 2522 0111 mandarinoriental.com LUK YU TEA HOUSE offers a truly authentic dim sum experience with a wide and varied menu of local favourites.

24-26 Stanley Street, Central 852 2523 5464

The Michelin-star menu at TIM HO WAN has a threehour waiting list on any given night for a reason. Call ahead to reserve a table for a hassle-free experience.

Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po 852 2788 1226 90 • ESCAPADES

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Excluding makeshift diners and dubious food stalls, Hong Kong has over 11,000 restaurants to choose from. For a dining experience that is uniquely Hong Kong, look no further than our top picks for dim sum with a view.

STREET TREATS Central Kowloon houses all kinds of gritty places in the city, including the five-block stretch of the Temple Street Night Market. Lurid yellow light bulbs dangle precariously behind bright red plastic shades, bathing the market stalls in shadowy real-world austerity.

From Frauda to Fauxlex, counterfeit luxury items are displayed in plain sight. Palmists and face readers mill around street corners, scrutinising starry-eyed tourists as they take in the novelty of the scene.

Buskers, playing anything from the traditional erhu to the run-of-the-mill six-string, demarcate their territory along the crowded street by nightfall.

It is the inspiration for hundreds of Chinatowns all over the world—and it all began in little Hong Kong.

RIGHT PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL): SAIKO3P, ARTEM EFIMOV, SUCCESSO IMAGES

Nearest MTR: JORDAN

KNOW YOUR YIN FROM YOUR YANG According to the Taoist worldview, the ancient Chinese developed the system of traditional medicine on the basis that everything in the universe works in duality—yin and yang. Under this principle, diseases are caused by an imbalance in the duality within internal organs in the body. A combination of various roots and herbs can remedy an excess of either yin or yang depending on the ailment.

In Hong Kong, more than a fifth of all medical consultations are made with practitioners of Chinese medicine.

When in the city, make a trip down to Sheung Wan, where you’ll find over 200 shops selling traditional Chinese medicine.

Ko Shing Street and the strip between Bonham Strand West to Wing Lok Street are also prime locations to pick up ginseng dried scallops, or bird’s nest— common ingredients for general well being.

YUM CHA!

One of the oldest and most celebrated tea houses in Hong Kong still clings onto its old world charm, with ceiling fans and faded menus.

Lin Heung Tea House, meaning ‘fragrant Lotus’, offers an authentic yum cha (afternoon tea) experience. The lotus paste buns are a must-try, as is the pu-er tea known for its subtle flavour.

160 Wellington Street • 852 2544 4556 ESCAPADES • 91

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E S C A PA D E S 1 T R AV E L O G U E

HEARTS

In

LITTLE

Lh a s a

After a six-week stint at the home of the Dalai Lama, Lucy Corne shares the ups and downs of life in the Indian foothills.

w YAK BUTTER LAMPS ARE USED WHEN MAKING OFFERINGS AND MEDITATING

ARIAN BERTOS

ETTLING BACK INTO ‘normal life’ is always tough after a long trip, so on returning from a lengthy stint in Asia I decided a rummage through the random knick-knacks collected en route might diffuse the post-travel blues.

A variety of emotions ensued—joy at the sight of cheesy snaps, mild embarrassment at the clothes which looked cool in India and bewilderment as to why I’d kept bus tickets in a language so foreign I couldn’t even decipher where the journeys had ended or begun. But it wasn’t until I opened long unseen thank you cards from my most recent English students that I felt truly moved.

This was quite a leap from my previous teaching post—a very long year in rural Korea, where 300 teenage boys often had me close to tears for all the wrong reasons. But while my Korean stint was a little lacking in job satisfaction, the handsome pay packet enabled me to realise a long-term dream—to work as a volunteer teacher.

It was in my signature disorganised style that I arrived in McLeod Ganj, a northern Indian hill town, home to the Dalai Lama. I still had to secure a placement, find somewhere to live and create a few teaching aids from thin air. I began to wonder what it would really be like to teach Tibetan Buddhist monks. Of course, it would be a cool travel tale to email home, but what kind of students would they be? I doubted they’d love my active classes filled with silly games and was imagining six weeks of rote learning ahead of me instead.

It’s not often that I admit to being wrong, but on this occasion I was proved joyously off the mark. In fact the monks turned out to be superlative scholars—endlessly enthusiastic, full of intelligent questions and with a seemingly insatiable appetite for cheating at games!

It seemed that fate found me a perfect placement just hours into my search. The staff at Tibet Charity were fretting over a volunteer deserting them a day before the new term began when I wandered in, begging for a job. A jack-of-all-trades kind of place, yet thoroughly professional, Tibet Charity houses a veterinary clinic for stray dogs, a doctor’s surgery offering traditional and western medicine and upstairs an English and IT school. The largely Tibetan staff are held together by Choegi, who ensures no one goes without tea or hot water for more than 10 minutes, and presided over by the perpetually cheerful boss, Tsering.

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O N M Y T H I R D D AY of work a curious thing happened. I awoke an hour before my alarm clock sounded and felt like a child on Christmas morning. So that’s what it feels like to have a job you truly love? I simply couldn’t wait to get out of bed and start my working day. Fortunately I had something to keep me occupied until it was time for school—a dozen notebooks filled with homework that hadn’t been set. My students, mostly Tibetan refugees now calling India home, were so dedicated that they filled their evenings with self-imposed homework tasks. Well, when they could find the time between attending conversation groups and one-to-one classes with the endless stream of travellers passing through.

In fact this is the main draw for the hordes of bearded backpackers that stick around McLeod for weeks on end. Sure, the Dalai Lama naturally attracts plenty of tourists and the snow capped mountains help. But while scenery and spiritual leaders might lure travellers here,

become a nun, the youngest eloped when her father tried to send her to a convent.

I don’t know whether I passed my preliminary training, but I moved on to the next step into Tibetan traditions about three weeks into my stay. Three of my top students, Dolma, Lhamo and Yeshi were horrified that I planned to go hiking with a pricey guide, instead insisting that they would lead me and two friends to Triund, a 3000m mountain overlooking the town. I don’t know why I was surprised to find that people who grew up on a 5000m plateau could jog up steep slopes as nimbly and quickly as mountain goats, but as they raced ahead giggling and chatting endlessly we were left panting at the back. When we eventually caught up we were delighted to find a belt-ripping picnic waiting for us. Dolma and Yeshi had arisen at 5 am to start the mammoth momo steamathon, cooking enough of the doughy, meat filled parcels for a small army.

Considering the climate, it’s no real shock that

FOR A TE AC HE R IT WAS T HE MOS T R E WA R D ING J OB P O S S I B LE —E AGE R S TU D ENTS AND A H OME -COOK E D ME AL F OR L UNCH E AC H DAY BY WAY OF PAYM ENT. it’s the Tibetan people that keep them from leaving. Those that sign up to run a conversation club often find the warmth and hospitality they receive turns a weekend stay into a month-long induction into Tibetan culture.

My initiation began with Tenzin, an advanced student who approached me for extra classes. But as we sat drinking salty Tibetan tea, what was meant to be an English tutorial soon turned into ‘Tibet 101’. From him I learned about the various lamas (there are four) and how the latest reincarnation is found.

He tried (unsuccessfully I’m sorry to add—I’m not as scholarly as my students) to explain the finer points of Buddhism to me and offered his criticisms of ‘monk mania’, where parents push their children towards a life with the clergy, even if they lack the piety and dedication. He has two rebel sisters—the eldest was earmarked for marriage when she ran away to

Tibetan food is heavy, meaty and loaded with carbs. Combined with a long walk and a sunny hilltop it’s a sure-fire nap inducer. We awoke to the sounds of a touching ballad and found that it was Lhamo, singing a nostalgic melody from her nomadic days in Tibet.

Suddenly taken with Tibetan flavours (following two months of curry for lunch and dinner) I decided to enrol in one of the many courses open to curious travellers. Some opt to learn the language; others try their hand at painting an intricate thangka. I decided to improve my kitchen repertoire and joined a one-day cooking course at a neighbouring NGO. I’d certainly done my research in tasting Tibetan cuisine so thought making the momos would be simple. Once again I was wrong.

Our teacher, also called Lhamo, thankfully had the patient temperament typical of her people. She watched without laughing as we

BIG ONE : LEAVING

repeatedly botched her national dishes and even deigned to sample our misshapen momos fresh out of the steamer. It was a testament to how utterly polite Tibetans are that when we offered our wares to passing students they all smiled and wolfed them down, ignoring the thick uncooked base. This summed up my experience in McLeod—you don’t have to be perfect, but try to learn a few local traditions and you’ll make some friends for life. The culture, like the language, is facing extinction and every traveller who admires a thangka, samples a momo or tries to fumble through a sentence of their notoriously tricky language is perhaps helping to preserve Tibetan culture for a few more years.

Back in the classroom everything was faultless. Having spent much of the last five years trying to convince listless teenagers that studying English is useful and, dare I say it, fun, the show of respect from my Tibetan students took a little getting used to. Holding teachers in the highest esteem, the students stand as their tutors enter the room and excuse themselves from classes with notes invariably starting with the salutation ‘Dear Respected Madam’.

Always delighted to study, the students lapped up the grammar, shook off their natural shyness to join in debates and threw themselves into every silly activity. I must admit I never tired of seeing enrobed monks charging across the room to grab first prize (my standard reward is a box of happiness) or the barrage of giggles that inevitably followed.

For a teacher it was the most rewarding job possible—eager students and a home-cooked meal for lunch each day by way of payment. Of course, all jobs have their drawbacks and the downside of volunteering in Little Lhasa was a big one—leaving. As my sixth week drew near I tried to work out a way to stay, but limited funds and onward travel plans forced me to bid farewell to the students and Ted, an excitable street puppy with a penchant for peeing on my classroom floor.

My final classes were tearful ones. After a brief and choked up thank you I was about to make a hasty exit when I was suddenly showered with khata—white silk scarves, traditionally given as a welcome or parting gift. Overwhelmed by their presents and heartfelt thank you notes, I wondered when (not if) I’d be back. Would I tolerate a further year of apathetic teenagers just to earn the money for another stint in McLeod? In an instant.

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Nostalgia

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1980s first-class non-vegetarian diet from British Airways

1970s

Style at 30,000 Feet In Airline Style at 30,000 Feet Keith Lovegrove straps us in for a ride when snazzier airlines took hip sky-high.

Go-go-booted and bell-bottomed passengers used to trip out on the grooviest out-of-thisworld haute decor and cuisine.

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The Boeing 747 firstclass ‘Tiger Lounge’ bar. Built as a mock-up in 1972 for a Boeing productdevelopment study, the lounge for firstand-business-class passengers was to be situated in the hold with a vertical viewing port in the central table.

The Empire flyingboat was the height of luxury; it included a promenade deck to view the scenes below on the long stages to Africa, India and Australia, 1930s/1940s.

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ALL IMAGES © AIRLINE: STYLE AT 30,000 FEET BY KEITH LOVEGROVE. PUBLISHED BY LAURENCE KING PUBLISHING. USED WITH PERMISSION.

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1970s Middle East meets West in the 1970s with Gulf Air’s adaptation of the Muslim headdress; legs are covered by smart trousers.

The uniform was originally designed

by Joy Stokes.

Stewardess Aban Mistry models the Air-India uniform next to the Tak Mahalian décor of an Air-India J ‘ umbo Jet’, 1971. The short salwar kameez was both culturally appropriate and practical for serving the cabin. The elegant dupatta scarf added an extra flourish.

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The interior of the private DC-9 as decked out for Playboy’s chief, Hugh Hefner. He took delivery of the jet from aircraft manufacturers McDonnell Douglas in January 1970 and dubbed the aircraft ‘Big Bunny’.

Lunch in first class on board a BEA Vickers Viscount, 1953, Flying was still a luxurious mode of transport, with space for congenial eating and seating arrangements; one could also enjoy an after-dinner smoke.

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BEA’s popular uniforms, designed

by Sir Hardy Amies, 1972

1930s Lufthansa flight and ground crew, 1933.

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1970s The first UK-based non-white stewardesses to be employed by an independent airline received their ‘wings’ at the London offices of British Midland Airways in 1970.

“By the 1980s, air travel had come a long way, baby!

With his penchant for detail, Lovegrove indulges our wistful longing for luxury— back in the day—when passenger pampering wasn’t just a flighty notion.” $14.95 • laurenceking.com

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has probably met at least one of the many variants of travel snobs on their adventures.

LU C Y C O R N E dissects the numerous strains of this pandemic plaguing the backpacking community at large—from the spartan packers to the guidebook burners

“Ah, I remember when I first went backpacking and I didn’t know how to travel,” David the hostel owner mused nostalgically.

I was puzzled. Whatever could he mean by that? How can you not know how to travel?

Surely you just pack a bag, buy a ticket and jump on something with wheels or wings.

I wasn’t aware there was much more of a technique to it than that. He eyed my badly packed rucksack with disdain. “Yeah, I had this huge 85-litre bag, full to bursting with all those unnecessary things that first time travellers pack, like sleeping bag liners, rucksack liners, rucksack covers, liners for your rucksack covers…” Suddenly I found myself making excuses for my excessive luggage and feeling like an inferior traveller. Then it dawned on me that I’d just been on the receiving end of an epidemic that sweeps the seemingly laid-back independent traveller community—travel snobbery.

The initial strain of the virus was a basic aversion to package holidays, a feeling that going it alone was a superior way of travelling, a way of getting to know the local culture and injecting something into the local economy. Nothing unhealthy in that, I hear you mutter, and I’m sure more than a handful of you suffer from this light form of travel snobbery. I know I was diagnosed years ago. However, the virus has mutated within the backpacker community, creating a number of subspecies. And as much as you think this is an article about others, you’ll perhaps spot a piece of yourself in at least one of the five breeds of travel snob. You’ve already met the Luggage Snob, here’s a rundown of his most common counterparts.

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v RECOGNISABLE BY: Obscure passport stamps from countries you’ve never even heard of. v MOST LIKELY TO SAY: “I’ve just booked a trip to Burkina Faso.”

You’ll see derision all over their faces when you announce your purchase of a six-stop round the world ticket, taking in South East Asia, Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific. They might not say as much, but they’re inwardly sneering at your choice of destination, wondering why anyone would want to join the masses on the Khao San Road or Bondi Beach, when they could be camping in Kazakhstan or exploring uncharted Albania. They feel they’re a cut above the rest because they get way off the beaten track, snubbing any destination you’re likely to find in a ‘places to visit before you die’ list. But then there’s usually a reason why a place becomes exceptionally popular.

As a recovering sufferer of this strain of snobbery, I can tell of dull experiences in grotty, uninspiring towns in a bid to avoid the crowds and be original. I soon came to realise that people are drawn to certain places because they have something special to offer.

It’s all very well wanting to get away from the masses, but if that means visiting sewage plants and the local tax office, then perhaps following the crowd isn’t such a bad thing. v THEY’VE GOT A POINT BECAUSE:

Travelling is all about new experiences and as globalisation takes hold, some popular places are sadly losing their identity. Heading somewhere new might give you a real taste of another culture, rather than a second-rate clone of what you left behind.

v RECOGNISABLE BY: Their professional attitude to bartering, which they employ in hotels, restaurants, shops, buses stations, public toilets, even with beggars. v MOST LIKELY TO SAY: “I got it much cheaper than that.”

This strain of travel snobbery makes the sufferer believe that spending less makes you a superior traveller. He haggles for everything and likes the world to know that he paid less. OK, so lots of us like to travel on a budget and don’t mind doing away with a few home comforts in order to save a few dollars, but never spending anything isn’t really playing fair. What type two doesn’t seem to realise is that another point of independent travel is to inject cash into the local economy. Cutting back on spending is one thing, bartering people out of their livelihood is something totally different. And he’s likely to miss out on some great excursions if he’s not willing to put his hand in his pocket now and again and treat himself. v THEY’VE GOT A POINT BECAUSE:

The less you spend per day, the longer you can travel and the more you’ll get to see of the world, though it would be nice to splash out occasionally, both for the locals and for the traveller.

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TYPE 3

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THE C OMFORT SNOB

v RECOGNISABLE BY: A haunted look, fleas, perpetual backache v MOST LIKELY TO SAY:

“Haven’t you got anything less comfortable?”

There are some people in the world who seem to thrive on discomfort and type three belongs to this breed. She always stays in the scummiest hole of a hostel she can find and travels third class when she isn’t hitchhiking. She scoffs at anyone who favours deluxe buses or the odd three-star hotel room, insisting

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THE GUIDEBO OK SNOB

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v MOST LIKELY TO SAY:

“Oh, are you only here for two weeks?”

v MOST LIKELY TO SAY:

“I think guidebooks are ruining independent travel” A rare breed this one, and one that usually shows symptoms of other strains of travel snobbery.

They sneer at you and your fellow travellers as you wander around clutching your ‘travel bible’. Most of us enjoy reading up on our chosen destination before we set off and value the opinions of our chosen guide, but type five maintains that the books—or travel apps—ruin travel by drawing all and sundry to previously unknown spots and that the spontaneity is

BECAUSE: Admittedly, the best stories tend to come from hardships, so type three will always have some gripping travel tales to tell.

TYPE 5

A worn look from being on the road for so long

lost. Sure, travelling without a guidebook is great if you have unlimited time and funds and a command of the local language, but arriving somewhere unknown without some sort of guide can be a seriously stressful business. You’d be sure to miss some of the finest spots as you wander around blindly, relying entirely on the help of strangers and a healthy dose of luck.

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v RECOGNISABLE BY:

v RECOGNISABLE BY: The lack of a Lonely Planet tucked under their arm or an iPhone showing them the way.

that that doing away with comfort makes the experience more ‘real’. I say it turns travelling into a chore that’s only fun in retrospect. It’s alright to slum it now and then, where nothing else is available or a significant saving is to be made, but surely there’s a limit to the number of rat-infested dungeons anyone can stay in without losing it.

This species seems to have unlimited time to devote to travelling. They’d rather not visit a country at all than visit for just a week or two. How do they manage it? I’ve often wondered as I return from my all-too-short trips. Do they have a bottomless bank account?

Or perhaps they slave away for years without a break so that eventually they can plan a mammoth voyage. Countless

are the times I’ve spotted myself making excuses for the brevity of my trip, for the fact that I haven’t picked up much of the local language other than basic greetings and thanks or that I haven’t yet been invited into a local person’s home. v THEY’VE GOT A POINT

BECAUSE: Obviously the longer you stay somewhere, the more you’ll see, the more you’ll learn and the more you’ll get involved in the local culture.

Unfortunately, not all of us can afford six months in every country we visit and type five needs to understand that our bank balances and bosses won’t permit it.

v THEY’VE GOT A POINT

BECAUSE: Travelling without a guidebook really gets back to the roots of travel—the original pioneers and explorers. Alas, if you’re on any kind of budget, be it dictated by time or money constraints, relying on tips from travellers who have gone before you is a must for most of us.

SO THERE YOU HAVE THEM, the most common types of travel

snob. Hopefully you’ve managed to diagnose yourself and that’s the first step to recovery. To complete the healing process, get back on the road, start chatting with your fellow travellers and respect them, whether they travel in luxury with a hugely over packed bag or wander around for years, hardly spending anything and sleeping in shop doorways. And if you come across someone suffering from acute travel snobbery, remind them that travel is supposed to be fun, and as long as people enjoy themselves without harming others, leave them to it!

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Q + A

was a damn sight better than Slipped Disc Records, which we nearly called it (starting the company in the early 1970s).

Money The main thing about money is it gives you freedom. Freedom to do with your life what you choose rather than what others choose to make you do. Freedom to find the best way to sort the problem out if a family member is ill. Freedom to make a difference in the world. Money in itself is not that interesting.

Sea I’ve been plucked out of the sea six times by helicopters, and I’m very grateful. I’m on something called the Oceanic Elders that’s trying to protect the species in our seas. One and a half million sharks a week get slaughtered just for their fins. They’re now starting to slaughter manta rays for their gills.

UPSTAIRS AT THE GLEAMING

Off the Cuff The directive was clear: 10 minutes only. That was all the time SIR RICHARD BRANSON had for an interview, so Jeff Heinrich of the Montreal Gazette challenged the business tycoon to a game of words

downtown Virgin Mobile store where we sat, 30 of the cellphone service provider’s top Quebec staff waited to meet the boss from Britain. I presented the high-flying founder and CEO of Virgin Group (400+ companies in 30 countries, global revenues of $21 billion) with a pack of 10 flash cards I’d made.

On each one, a word.

I asked him to choose a card from the pack, one at a time at random, turn it over and read the word, then take a minute to say what it means to him.

He was surprised at the concept (“Is this a new way of doing interviews?), but played along, hardly looking up as he concentrated on his answers.

Casually dressed in white shirt, jeans and blazer, a flop of blond hair and goatee giving him a rakish air, the 62-year-old magnate took the 10-word plunge.

Drink I associate drink with regretting it the next morning, and workouts, and kite surfing, and trying to get the body fit so that I can have another drink the

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next night. I made a mistake of drinking the (Montreal tap) water last night, quite a lot of it, but I seem to be fine.

Space Space is infinite, beautiful and to be conquered; something we’ve been trying to do for nearly 15 years now and by the end of this year hope to be up, up and away in space with Virgin Galactic. I still have to pinch myself that we’re building a spaceship, and a mother ship, and a space station.

Legacy The Virgin Life Pill, we’ve got to hurry up and get it finished.

We’re nearly there, but if it fails, then I think you leave your legacy through your children, how you bring them up, whether they can take on the baton, and I like to think that Sam and Holly, my two great kids, will be proud of the lives they live.

Virginity Lost it when I was about 15, still searching for it. You haven’t seen it, have you? (laughs) Anyway, well, Virgin’s played quite an important role in my life, it’s been great fun, and the name

Mobility Things like Virgin Mobile have enabled people like myself and most people to have the freedom to work from wherever they want. They don’t have to be stuck behind an office on a long line. You can get out and about and meet your people, you can travel the world.

Rock ‘n’ Roll It’s where it all started. I was very lucky to be alive and sign bands like the Rolling Stones and the Sex Pistols at a very exciting time for rock ’n’ roll and to have known wonderful bands like the Beatles and Queen. Had a blast, and somehow, somehow survived.

With 45 seconds left in our allotted time, and a nervous PR woman hovering to spirit Sir Richard away, I asked him one last question: Were there any other words he wished had been in the pack?

Looking up finally and making eye contact, Branson flashed his trademark smile and laughed boisterously.

“I think you’ve done really well with this,” he said. “It’s a clever idea.”

Wherever we meet again, I just hope he gives me more than 10 minutes.

ILLUSTRATION BY LINDSAY GILMORE

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