Escapades

GEORGETOWN

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PROVENCE

❊ BERLIN

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S E C O N D D U B A I FAS H I O N E X P E R I E N C E

THE SILK ROAD Masai Mara, 125 years of National Geographic SEPT–OCT 2014 AED 10

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CONTENTS S E P T– O CT

2014

On the cover h

Yard of ancient mosque in Khiva, Uzbekistan Photo by Dudarev Mikhail

Features

54 Anthony Bourdain talks food, travel and war

ARO U N D T H E WO RLD IN 125 Y E ARS

T H E G O LD E N ROAD TO SAM ARKAN D

A crossroad and melting pot of cultures

“Like Timbuktu or Xanadu, the name Samarkand conjures a place that hovers somewhere between fact and romantic fiction”

60

68

WI LD AT HEART

M O R E T H A N J US T N I CE

11 • ESCAPADES

94

Show-stopping imagery from National Geographic

E XPLOR IN G SIMPLE P LE AS U R ES IN A VERY COM P LI CATED WOR LD

Magical Kenya, where the safari originated

76

Picturesque fortified villages in the Côte d’Azur

102 BE YO N D T H E BE AC H

Ten things to do in Mauritius without getting sand between your toes

L TO R FROM TOP CENTER: KONSTANTTIN / SHUTTERSTOCK, OLEG ZNAMENSKIY / SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC. ILLUSTRATION BY KHALID MAHMOOD

Picturesque old town of Provence h PG 68

S E P T– O CT

h

2014

Departments

110 T H E C O LO U RS O F CATAS T RO PH E

COM PASS

Field notes for the well-traveled

Rediscovered autochrome photography of WWI

43

120

DOSSI ER

T H E L AS T S TO P

Words of wisdom from Oprah Winfrey

Chanel’s pre-fall bag collection arrives in the U.A.E h PG 29

“A 1922 dinner party included Marcel Proust, Pablo Picasso, and James Joyce” The Peninsula Paris: the most anticipated hotel opening of the year h

13 • ESCAPADES

PG 51

History

25

Global Travel Intel: Georgetown, Berlin, Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience

Below The Brandenburg gate of Berlin

PG 27

L TO R FROM TOP CENTER: NOPPASIN / SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY ALEX KOSTICH, COURTESY CHANEL, COURTESY PENINSULA PARIS, COURTESY TASCHEN

CONTENTS

PUBLISHER

Ahmed Dalmouk Al Nuaimi EDITOR IN CHIEF

Nasser Al Romaithy EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR

Julia Guild

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Justin Fox Sarah Duff John Little Lucy Corne Larry Macke COPY EDITOR

Chandra Mouli ART & DESIGN DESIGN DIRECTOR

Matt Chase

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

Khalid Mahmood, Sean Hill

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Andrzej Kubik, Dudarev Mikhail, Orhan Cam, Daniel Chladek ADVERTISING, SALES & MARKETING MARKETING EXECUTIVE

Amelia Grinos amelia@escapades.ae +971507814885 CONTACT ADVERTISING OFFICE

P.O.BOX 500717 Al Thuraya Tower 2 7th Floor Dubai Media City +9714 4280657 advertising@escapades.ae PLEASE ADDRESS ALL INQUIRIES TO

hello@escapades.ae DISTRIBUTION

Jashanmal Distribution PUBLISHED BY

Copyright Š Now Publishing FZ-LLC 2014. All Rights Reserved. The opinions and statements of contributors in Escapades do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Advertisers appearing in Escapades carry no implied recommendation from the magazine or the publishers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior consent. Printed in the U.A.E by Al Ghurair Printing and Publishing.

E S CA PA D E S

R E C YC L E S

—Rumi Poet, jurist and theologian

RIGHT PAGE: MARZOLINO / SHUTTERSTOCK

“Travel brings power and love back into your life.”

ESCAPADES • 18

maldives

eXPeRieNCe Tailor your perfect island escape at Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa, where luxury, privacy and nature combine to create an atmosphere of discreet, indulgent bliss Design your stay by choosing between six distinct styles of villa, from private ocean retreats perched over a turquoise lagoon to tree house villas with panoramic views set in the treetops.

Immerse yourself in Maldivian life with an outing to one of our neighbouring islands, or borrow one of the resort’s bicycles and explore a 17-kilometre network of cycling trails that cover five neighbouring islands.

Home to the Maldives’ only nine-hole golf course, a stay at Shangri-La Villingili Resort and Spa means you can brush up on your game between indolent afternoons on the beach and languid dinners in front of the shimmering ocean.

villingili island, addu atoll, Republic of maldives T: (960) 689 7888 F: (960) 689 7999

www.shangri-la.com

Editor’s Letter

Thoughts for the Road Ahead

Seeking Unity in Diversity

T

here’s inherent potential in the Middle East economically, and more so, culturally with overlapping linguistic, ethnic, national and kin distinctions.

Yet, recent happenings tug at the heart. Minority groups are the focus of much contemporary conflict in the Middle East. Notions of identity are whipsawing people into discord and constantly testing fragile bonds.

Therefore, it was uplifting to escape to Kenya and be in a place where locals, wildlife and visitors co-exist in harmony. The annual wildebeest migration from the Serengeti in Tanzania to Masai Mara in Kenya is one of the greatest natural spectacles in the world. While, in all my travels I have never come across more welcoming people than the Masai. (Wild at Heart, pg. 60).

The historic melting pot of cultures, the silk road, and its influences on the cultures of China, Central Asia and the West, is explored in our Central Asia feature (The Golden Road to Samarkand, pg. 94).

Those familiar with Anthony Bourdain’s shows will affirm that fewer people are better placed to comment on conflict zones, travel and food than Bourdain. (Exploring Simple Pleasures in a Very Complicated World, pg. 54). He’s traversed the globe celebrating diverse cultures and uncovering little-known, and sometimes seemingly familiar areas of our planet.

Long before television and the internet, the golden rectangle of The National Geographic shaped travel photography and brought the planet to our homes. We celebrate their 125th year of influence in a special photo spread from taschen (Around the World in 125 Years, pg. 76).

We have a new segment, Dossier, to complement our lighthearted section, Compass. And we have a new

publisher, Ahmed, an eminent voice, a world traveler with a penchant for the Orient. Expect a more rounded view with his visionary at the helm.

I pray that the battle grounds of ethnic variance will quiet down into tranquil landmarks, and herald us back to an era similar to the silk road where trade, travel and cultural exchange reigned.

Nasser Al Romaithy Editor-In-Chief

nasser@ escapades.ae @NasserRomaithy ESCAPADES • 20

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DOHA • QATAR

Publisher Ahmed Dalmouk Alnuaimi Escapades is the latest endeavor of new publisher, Ahmed, who mixes his business savvy with a passion for globe-trotting. The Emirati francophone studied at the École du Louvre and understands the alchemy of an “it” design. Japan is where The Tokyoite aficionado spends most of his time away from the U.A.E. AHMED@ESCAPADES.AE

“Our unified purpose is to inspire you to experience the exceptional, and go on an Escapade of you own.”

Correspondents

Justin Fox

Sarah Duff

Khalid Mahmood

Justin Fox is an award-winning writer and photographer based in Cape Town. A former Rhodes Scholar, he now also teaches travel writing at the University of Cape Town. His articles and photographs appear internationally in a number of publications and on a wide range of topics, while his short stories and poems have appeared in various anthologies. His recent books include The Marginal Safari (2010), Unspotted (2013) and a debut novel about East Africa and Somali pirates, entitled Whoever Fears the Sea (2014).

is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Cape Town, whose job has taken her all over the African continent and further afield. From tracking mountain gorillas in Rwanda, road tripping around Malawi, sleeping under the stars in the Namib Desert, beach hopping in Mozambique, to searching for Istanbul’s best Turkish delight, her travels have only left her with an unquenchable desire to explore more. Her stories and photographs have been published in a range of magazines and newspapers and she blogs at duffssuitcase.com.

is a 28 year old self taught artist from Dubai. Holds a Bachelor degree in Business Administration with a concentration of Accounting and Finance from the American University of Sharjah. He considers art as a hobby as he has professional career that is away from art. He started drawing as a kid and developed his skills through practicing on his own. His art currently includes portraits, cartoons and graphic design.

Has been involved recently in participating in art exhibitions and designing magazine covers.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY KHALID MAHMOOD

Keep up with Escapades wherever your own adventures may take you: TWITTER

@escpdes INSTAGRAM

@escpdes FACEBOOK

facebook.com/ escpdes ESCAPADES • 22

TOP TO BOT: COURTESY ETIHAD, COURTESY DOLCE & GABBANA

COMPASS

SEPT–OCT

2014

h

PG 31

This Month

2 7 L AUN CH

Most anticipated hotel opening of the year

2 9 FAS H I O N

Stand out bags from Chanel’s Pre-Fall Collection

31 AIRLINES

Etihad’s A380 launch dates

3 2 FAS H I O N

An ode from Dolce & Gabbana to their beloved country 39 H E ALT H WATC H

3 5 A DV I CE

FIELD NOTES FOR THE WELL-TRAVELED

Below Etihad’s A380 ‘Residences’

Travel advice for expectant mothers

3 7 CULT UR E

The heritage of the colorful Omani doors

The Ebola outbreak… what you need to know

41 G E T IN VO LVE D

Share your Escapades with us ESCAPADES • 24

SINGAPORE GATEWAY TO SOUTHEAST ASIA

SilkAir routes SilkAir is the regional wing of Singapore Airlines.

Experience the luxury of Singapore Airlines with 10 weekly flights from Dubai to Singapore. The island city is also a short flight to 35 amazing destinations in Southeast Asia. En route, enjoy KrisWorld, your personal entertainment system and the inflight service even other airlines talk about. singaporeair.com

Launch

SEP–OC T 2014

PARIS

The Peninsula Paris PHOTOS COURTESY PENINSULA PARIS

A FT ER A R ESTORAT I O N

that took four years and more than $1 billion, the Peninsula Paris opened its doors to great anticipation in August as the 10th hotel worldwide and the first European property by the Hong Kong-based luxury brand.

The 1908 building boasts a rich history, first opening as the Hotel Majestic, where a 1922 dinner party included Marcel Proust, Pablo Picasso,

and James Joyce, and where George Gershwin spent three weeks in 1928 composing An American in Paris. In 1936 it was converted to government offices only to become the headquarters of the German military high command during the occupation of France, and later hosted the signing of the Paris Peace Accords to conclude the Vietnam War. The location, a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees, is outstanding.

Rooms start at AED 3700, rise to AED 17,000 and above for Premier Suites, and top out with

Garden and Terrace Suites and Theme Suites that are priced through inquiry only. Guest room amenities include free phone calls anywhere in the world, a printer, coffee machine, nail polish-dryer, and tablets that can be used to manage in-room controls and to connect with the concierge and room service. Six dining outlets, an 1,800-square-meter spa, and 600 staff, including masseuses and cigar connoisseurs, are on hand to help deliver the luxurious Peninsula experience.

—LARRY MACKE

ESCAPADES • 26

Fashion

SEP–OC T 2014

Chanel-ling the Classics

PHOTOS COURTESY CHANEL

THE PR E FALL 2 0 1 4 Chanel bag collection encompasses a mix of fresh takes on the classic Flap Bag, a handful of new Chanel Boy styles, and some exceptional pieces finished in python. The statements range from casual and comfortable to bold and elegant. Some of the most notable are the embroidered minaudiere, the classic flap bag tweed, and the jersey flap bag in neon colors. All bear witness to the singular Chanel pedigree.

Clockwise from top left: Embroidered Minaudiere, Chevron Boy Bag Ivory, Python Boy Bag, Classic Flap Bag Tweed Red, Embellished Shearling Flap Bag Black, Boy Bag Blue, Large Calfskin and Tweed Shopping Bag, Nameplate Shopping Tote, Embroidered Sequin Flap Bag, Embellished Classic Flap Bag

ESCAPADES • 28

Airlines

SEP–OC T 2014

Beyond First Class

PHOTO COURTESY ETIHAD

E TIH AD’S F IR ST AIR B US

A380 will operate commercially to London Heathrow starting in December 2014. The airline has established a new era in luxury air travel with the launch of ‘The Residence’, the world’s first private multi-room cabin on a commercial passenger aircraft.

The Residence will feature a living room, double bedroom, separate ensuite shower room, and for the first time in the airline industry, a dedicated, trained Butler.

For Muslim passengers, Etihad also announced it will be installing prayer areas which can be curtained off for privacy and are equipped with a realtime electronic Qibla-finder showing the exact direction of Makkah based on the aircraft’s geographical position.

The A380 will be in a three class configuration seating 498. There will be two seats in “residence,” nine “apartments” (first class), 70 in business and 417 seats in economy.

The Abu Dhabi-based airline plans to introduce five more A380s in 2015, three in 2016 and two in 2017. After the inaugural London-Heathrow flight, New York, Paris, Melbourne and Sydney are also being added to the initial network in the months to follow.

ESCAPADES • 30

Fashion

SEP–OC T 2014

CAPRI

Bella Italia THE E NC H ANTMENT OF CA PRI , with its emerald waters,

magnificent vistas, fragrant lemon blossoms, and open-air stretch taxis, has long captured the hearts of legendary women including Ingrid Bergman, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, and Elizabeth Taylor.

In July, this singular charm set the ideal tone for the showing of the 2014 fall Alta Moda haute couture collection 31 • ESCAPADES

from Dolce & Gabbana.

Alta Moda, the premier line

by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, is a collection of handmade creations with dress prices that begin at AED 145,00. Two hundred valued customers and VIP guests were escorted by boats to the seaside location, with the dramatic Faraglioni rocks bearing witness and proving the ultimate ode to Bella Italia.

This Alta Moda collection is an homage to queens that featured ornate 18-carat crowns accenting gowns with dramatic splashes of vibrant, hand-painted colors that echo the natural splendor of Capri. Luxurious lynx capes served as regal cover-ups for jewel-encrusted bathing suits, and were complemented by ermine-tailed ponchos and fitted fur jackets. Equally striking and colorful were the Alta Moda

jewelry creations, many of which bore sparkling fruit-shaped accents evoking some of the natural flora of Capri.

The exclusive event proved to be an almost dreamlike distillation of the distinctive island charms—the color, beauty, drama, and relaxed refinement that characterize this corner of Bella Italia.

—LARRY MACKE

ESCAPADES • 32

PHOTOS COURTESY DOLCE & GABBANA

Malaysia

Endless Distractions *CNN 2012 Ranking

Advice

Travelling for Two

SEP–OC T 2014

aren’t a whole lot of fun, while having to bundle up for minus temperatures might also make you grouchy.

Pack for comfort Think flat shoes, light, loose, clothing, giant undies and a rolling bag. If you’re planning a lengthy trip, remember you’ll be expanding as you travel, so take some outfits that will grow with you.

While planning a trip during my first pregnancy, I came across a piece of wisdom so insightful, so utterly brilliant that it had me zooming on week-long road trips, jumping on planes, taking weekend city breaks in previously unvisited lands and returning to a few favourite spots before the baby was born. There, among warnings from naysayers and scaremongers insisting that pregnant women should take to the couch and avoid all things enjoyable, was a revelation. “There might never be a better time to travel,” it said, pointing out that this would be the last chance to take a childfree trip for the best part of two decades. So if you’re a mama-to-be with incurably itchy feet (and not just from the swollen ankles), it’s time to plan that trip of a lifetime. To get the preparations started, here are 10 tips for taking your bump on the road.

Get the go-ahead If your pregnancy is problem-free, there should be nothing stopping you from packing your bags, but do chat with your doctor before booking a big trip. Not only will the all-clear help you to relax and enjoy your holiday, your doctor might have a few travel tips that you can take with you.

Due dates and departure dates Nausea and fatigue aren’t exactly the perfect travel companions, so it might be best to save your big trip until the first trimester has passed. But don’t wait too long—by month seven or eight, fatigue makes a comeback and ILLUSTRATION BY MATT CHASE

extended periods of sightseeing could see your ankles swelling to the same size as your belly.

That middle trimester is the golden time to travel—you look great and it’s probably the most energy you’ll have for the next five years or so…

Pick your destination While pregnancy is a great time to take a trip, not every destination is ideal. Read up on possible health issues—you’ll probably want to avoid malarial zones and anywhere that vaccinations are essential, since many aren’t compatible with pregnancy.

Think about the weather as well.

Big bumps in 40-degree heat

Getting there It’s a common myth that pregnant women can’t fly on planes (though most airlines won’t allow you on board after 36 weeks for fear of having to make the “Is there a midwife on board?” announcement). Travelling can exacerbate nausea too, so some ladies like to avoid the first few months, but assuming you’ve got the OK from your doc, the only things you need to think about on board are keeping the seatbelt loose, the water glass full and taking regular walks down the aisle (though the overactive bladder will probably see to it that you don’t stay in your seat for long).

Use your bump to your advantage Of course there are things you won’t be able to do to as an expectant traveller, but forget about any negatives. Rub that bump vigorously and often and make sure everyone around you knows you’re with child. There’s never a time when you’re treated better, so if your bump can get you a seat on a rush hour metro train, a table at a particularly popular eatery or an extra interaction with some local people then show it off and lap up the pregnant love.

Swot up on foodstuffs You no doubt know which foods you should be munching and which you should be avoiding when you’re at home, but when menus are full of unfamiliar dishes, it’s tough to know what’s good for you and what’s good to

avoid. Spend some time reading up on local food so you can tell your espinacas con garbanzos (the Spanish spinach and chickpea dish is a pregnancy super food) from the Befsztyk tatarski (Poland’s version of steak tartare—raw meat seasoned with raw egg—is definitely best avoided during pregnancy).

Give yourself a break Being pregnant is tiring and you might have to admit defeat when it comes to that fifth museum or the three-hour interpretive walking tour you had planned.

Don’t be hard on yourself—you deserve a break and you might as well take it with gusto. There are certainly things you can’t do as a pregnant traveller—bungee jumping, white water rafting and horse riding are pretty much off the list—but swap them instead for a traditional treatment in a local spa and take that wellearned break in style.

Learn to love the local latrines You’re going to need to pee. A lot.

So you might as well embrace it and consider your frequent toilet trips an alternative cultural encounter. Give your travel companions a running commentary on the quirks of the local loos or turn your Facebook statuses into a bog log. Or if it all gets too much, revel in the knowledge that this is the only time you can use the facilities in a fine dining restaurant or high-end hotel and expect smiles rather than raised eyebrows in response.

Capture the moment If you’re hoping to nurture the family’s next wanderer, what better first photo for the baby album than a shot of your pregnant belly in front of the Pyramids or a pic of the bump trying to prop up the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Take lots of preggie travel shots both for baba and for yourself—you’ll both look back on them fondly in the awesome, family travel-filled years to come.

—LUCY CORNE ESCAPADES • 34

EXCEPTIONAL EXPERIENCES IN EAST AFRICA The Safari Collection deliver bush luxury for the discerning traveler looking to be taken out of their comfort zone without ever being uncomfortable. Set in locations that showcase the best of Kenya’s culture, wildlife, topography and diversity in order to deliver on every level.

Giraffe Manor is one of Africa’s most iconic destinations famous for its resident Rothschild Giraffe.

Sasaab is chic and indulgent an oasis in Kenya’s breathtaking Northern frontier next to Samburu Reserve, huge rooms each with a private plunge pool.

Solio Lodge is the only lodge on Solio Ranch’s rhino sanctuary, Kenya’s first private conservancy with over 200 black and white rhino, lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog and more.

Sala’s Camp is a luxury bush camp located in the Mara’s last untouched corner.

Our attention to detail is evident along with our excellent service, food, guides, activities and ability to offer an authentic experience with plenty of heart, soul and fun.

We also offer a one stop shop as a KATO bonded tour operator and can book everything for you on the ground.

www.thesafaricollection.com

Culture

OMAN

SEP–OC T 2014

Omani Doors PHOTOS COURTESY DANIEL CHLADEK

HO USES IN OMAN I

villages may all be simple and unadorned except for their elaborate doors.

The clear geometrical forms stem from the traditional repertoire of Islamic motifs: stylized lotus leaves and other simple floral patterns show the influence of India and Persia. Austrian photographer, Daniel Chladek documented his fascination with this unique cultural heritage.

ESCAPADES • 36

Open Your Eyes to a World of Natural Beauty

Our first 5-star hotel in the Sultanate of Oman, Salalah Rotana Resort features 400 stunning rooms and suites built around waterways and a stretch of pristine sandy beach. Enjoy a scenic 20 km ride from Salalah Airport and embrace a new standard of Arabesque architecture, style and comfort. The resort offers a wide variety of amenities set alongside the breath-taking shores of the Indian Ocean.

Visit rotana.com to make your reservation, email res.salalah@rotana.com or call +968 2327 5700

Treasured Time. Our promise to you.

Terms and conditions apply.

Health Watch

SEP–OC T 2014

Ebola: a Must-Know List for Travellers As the Ebola outbreak in West Africa worsens, airlines around the globe are closely monitoring the situation but have yet to make any drastic changes. Below are some key questions about the disease, what airlines are doing and how safe it is to fly.

FESTA / SHUTTERSTOCK

Why are airlines concerned?

With some germs, one sick passenger on a plane could theoretically infect hundreds of people who are connecting to flights to dozens of other countries. Health and airline officials note, however, that Ebola only spreads through direct contact.

Outbreaks of diseases that can spread through the air, such as the flu and severe acute respiratory syndrome, or SARS, are more problematic for airlines.

Should people travel to West Africa?

A few countries have issued warnings for their citizens to avoid non-essential travel to West African nations with the outbreak.

Is Ebola deadly?

In past outbreaks, up to 90% of humans who contract the virus have died. If contracted, there is no vaccine and no specific treatment. The World Health Organization said this is the largest and longest outbreak ever recorded of Ebola. About 1,700 people have been sickened in Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone and Nigeria; nearly 1000 people have died.

How is Ebola transmitted?

The virus only spreads through direct contact with the blood or fluids of an infected person.

It can also be spread through objects, such as needles, that have been contaminated with infected fluids. No airborne transmission has been documented.

Are passengers leaving infected areas being screened?

Since the outbreak erupted, the Center for Disease Control in the United States has sent about two dozen staffers in West Africa to help try to track cases, set up emergency response operations and provide other help to control the outbreak.

Last week, CDC officials said the agency will send 50 more in the next month. CDC workers in Africa also are helping to screen passengers at airports, according to CDC director Dr. Tom Frieden.

How can Ebola be prevented?

It’s unknown what the natural host for Ebola is, but it’s believed to be the fruit bat. If an outbreak among animals is suspected, the best practice is to quarantine the animals, cull the infected animals and bury or incinerate the carcasses, according to WHO.

No known vaccine or specific treatment

8–10 Days Avg. Incubation Period

x100 = 1,700 sick

x100 = 1,000 dead ESCAPADES • 38

Get Involved

SEP–OC T 2014

PHOTO COURTESY ALEX KOSTICH

World Champion Swimmer and adventurous traveler Alex Kostich with Escapades in Nepal

Share Your Escapades

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ESCAPADES • 40

YAS ABU DHABI

LIFE HAS A NEW PLAYGROUND

Explore a glamourous destination full of unforgettable experiences. Relish a world of flavours at 11 dining venues and lounges.

Relax in 2 rooftop pools or at a luxurious spa. Pump up the adrenaline at exciting island attractions including Ferrari World Abu Dhabi and Yas Waterworld. Immerse your soul in true exhiliration, with 5-star service at the iconic Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi.

For reservations call +971 2 656 0700, email yas.reservations@viceroyhotelsandresorets.com or visit our website www.viceoryhotelsandresorts.com/abudhabi facebook.com/yasviceroy

twitter.com/yasviceroy

instagram.com/yasviceroy

PHOTOS COURTESY CAFÉ BELGE

Georgetown: Modern love for DC’s oldest neighborhood

Quaint row houses line the streets, but occasional modern elements, industrial relics and back-alley diversions remind you that the long-standing, historic Georgetown neighborhood is as popular as ever.

GLOBAL TR AVEL INTEL

M IC RO N E IG H BO RH O O D S fill the nearly 1.2-square-mile Georgetown area, such as Book Hill, high atop Wisconsin Avenue and rich in boutique shopping, posh dining and arts and antiques. The intersection of Wisconsin Avenue and M Street is the heart of the neighborhood and the shopping district, with both local, independent merchants, and national and international fashion brands. South of M Street you’ll find the C&O Canal and Potomac River that define the Canal District, full of nooks and crannies to explore.

ESCAPADES • 42

Dossier

By Day

Start your day with a handcrafted cup of coffee from the baristas at local DC favorite, Baked & Wired. Whatever you do, don’t miss the baked side of this split-personality shop. note: When you’re in Georgetown, yes, cupcakes are perfectly acceptable breakfast food.

Walk off that caffeine/sugar buzz with a stroll down the C&O Canal Towpath, a remnant from Georgetown’s early industrial period, now popular among joggers, bicyclists and anyone looking to escape the hustle and bustle of M Street.

History more your thing? Head up the hill to one of Georgetown’s three houses-turned-museums: Dumbarton Oaks, Tudor Place and Dumbarton House.

Those inclined to outdoor activities can rent a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard at Key Bridge Boathouse in spring and summer, or rent a bike from Big Wheel Bikes. If strolling is more your speed, take a walk through the Georgetown Waterfront Park along the Potomac River, with sweeping views of the Kennedy Center, Key Bridge and Roosevelt Island.

Kafe Leopold is the definition of a hidden gem. Tucked away in the design district known as Cady’s Alley and just off busy M Street, this modern European-style oasis serves up authentic Austrian cuisine and is always buzzing with a fashionable crowd.

Keep things almost exclusively local at ENO for a flight of expertly curated international drinks and pair them with locally sourced charcuterie, cheese and chocolate.

If you’re craving pizza, Georgetown really has you covered. Pizzeria Paradiso is the spot for gourmet pies. Just around the corner on Wisconsin Avenue is il Canale, serving up official Vera Pizza Napoletana, in other words, the real-deal, certified Neapolitan-style ‘za.

Shopping

Georgetown is DC’s design capital, so skip the snow globe and save some space in your suitcase for souvenirs that will beautify your home. Home to galleries, local boutiques and national chains, Cady’s Alley started off as a service alley but is now the primo path for trendy home furnishings.

Visit the Jonathan Adler store for a taste of his signature colorful “happy chic” look. A bit further north on Wisconsin

Avenue, american/holiday features a carefully curated collection of gifts and decorative accessories.

At the same time, with more than 150 specialty stores devoted to fashion, you can find something for every style, from preppy to edgy. National designers and retailers share the same streets as small, local boutiques that aren’t available anywhere else in DC. The District’s only Tory Burch store features the designer’s accessory collection—all the polished details to pull a look together. Other fashion exclusives to Georgetown include Billy Reid, Frye, Steven Alan, Rag & Bone and Barneys Co-op. If you think high fashion is out of your budget pay a visit to Second Time Around and Ella Rue for consignment couture, or the designer department at T.J. Maxx. And for the little ones, don’t miss egg by Susan Lazar or Dawn Price Baby, carrying the cutest toddler fashions.

By Night

Georgetown was once a hub for live music, hosting performers like U2 and Neil Young in tiny venues before they became household

names. While most of those places have since closed, there are still some stellar options for live music in the neighborhood.

Get your jazz and eat it too at Blues Alley, a nearly 50-year-old dinner club located in a service alley off Wisconsin Avenue. Greats like Sarah Vaughan, Ella Fitzgerald and Dizzy Gillespie once played at this historic spot. DJs regularly turn Malmaison into a nighttime haven for lively dance parties—many fueled by creative craft cocktails. Another recent addition to the music scene, Gypsy Sally’s, offers up Americana by way of live acts, helping to bring the return of a musical legacy back to the Georgetown waterfront.

Keep things lively and active at Pinstripes, an Italian-style bistro with a bowling and bocce component. For a nightcap, avoid the college crowds and class things up at a hotel lounge. In the warm months The Graham Georgetown hotel’s Observatory offers unparalleled rooftop views of the city.

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2 Edition of Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience nd

PHOTOS COURTESY CAFÉ BELGE

S E RVIN G AS A M E N TO RIN G PLATF O R M

The flagship fashion event of Emaar Properties, organised in partnership with Vogue Italia, which catapulted Dubai into the league of global fashion capitals in its inaugural edition, will be held this year over an extended three days from October 30 to November 1.

to nurture the upcoming generation of fashion designers and set a benchmark to encourage future talent, ‘Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience’ (VFDE), the Middle East’s largest fashion event of its kind, will present fashion lovers, residents, and tourists with a glamorous atmosphere during three days of fashion celebrations. To be held at The Dubai Mall from October 30 to November 1, 2014, the second edition of VFDE will host an array of workshops and panel discussions.

ESCAPADES • 46

Dossier

Following the first global talent scouting competition launched in January 2014 and organised by The Dubai Mall and Vogue Italia, with the support of BySymphony.com, 20 emerging designers have been selected to showcase their women’s and accessories S/S 2015 collections at this year’s edition of VFDE, at the exclusive ‘International Talents Showcase’ at Armani Hotel Dubai that will be held on October 31 and November 1.

The criteria set by Vogue Italia to select the 20 designers, from hundreds of applications received, include originality and the concept behind the project and personality of the brand, among others.

The 20 emerging selected designers are: Anabela Chan from the UK for Anabela Chan, Astrid Sarkissian from France for Astrid Sarkissian, Odély Teboul and Annelie Augustin from France and Germany for Augustin Teboul, Faiza Bouguessa from France/Algeria for Bouguessa, Carlotta De Luca from Italy for Charline De Luca, Martina Grasselli from Italy for Coliac, Dora Abodi from Hungary for Dora Abodi, Lubna and Nadia Al Zakwani from Oman for Endemage, Eun-Jung Lee from South Korea for Eun-Jung Lee, Heaven Tanudiredja from Indonesia for Heaven Tanudiredja, Hema Kaul from India for Hema Kaul, Farah Nasri from Lebanon for Hooked | HKD, Eva Lai from the USA for i’Alave, Marius Janusauskas from Belgium for Marius Janusauskas, Millicent Nobis from Australia for Mies Nobis, Kostya Omelya from Ukraine for Omelya Atelier, Reem Al Kanhal from Saudi Arabia for RK Designs, Sarah Angold from the UK for Sarah Angold Studio, Shamsa Alabbar from the UAE for Shamsa Alabbar, and Steven Tai from Canada for Steven Tai. VFDE will also celebrate the talent of eight new international designers at a fashion show to be held at The Dubai Mall Fashion Catwalk on October 30. The designers were selected by Vogue Italia as part of VFDE’s focus on mentoring the new generation talents. A panel of international fashion players will attend the exhibit of their S/S 2015 collections giving them the opportunity to be seen and potentially break into new markets.

The eight brands chosen are: Asudari Studio designed by Lamia Asudari from Saudi Arabia, Christopher Esber designed

by Christopher Esber from Australia, J. JS Lee designed by Jackie JS Lee from South Korea, Madiya Al Sharqi designed by Madiya Al Sharqi from the UAE, Miuniku designed

by Tina Sutradhar and Nikita Sutradhar from India, N°3 designed by Bushra Badri and Amira Al Khaja from the UAE, Stella 47 • ESCAPADES

PHOTOS COURTESY VOGUE FASHION DUBAI EXPERIENCE (ALL) CREDIT CREDIT

Jean designed by Stella Jean from Italy and Piccione Piccione designed by Salvatore Piccione from Italy.

Last year, the emerging designers who presented their collections at the fashion show gained tremendous visibility and consequently achieved concrete acknowledgment by the fashion industry.

Abdulla Lahej, Group Chief Executive Officer of Emaar Properties PJSC, said: “The first edition of Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience elevated Dubai to the league of a global fashion capital. This year’s selection of emerging and new designers is a testament to the incredible potential of the region, and serves as a platform to further strengthen their global outreach.

He added: “We are privileged to host the talents selected by Vogue Italia, one of the most influential fashion magazines and a leading name in the global fashion industry, and to showcase their collections, mentored

by Franca Sozzani, Vogue Italia Editor-inChief. With VFDE, we are not only bringing the best of the fashion from around the world but also giving regional and international talents the opportunity to unveil their true potential.”

This year’s selection of emerging and new designers is a testament to the incredible potential of the region, and serves as a platform to further strengthen their global outreach.

PHOTOS COURTESY CAFÉ BELGE

24 Reasons for Berlin Near where the Wall once stood, visitors might stumble across the following phrase: “I am the change”. Hardly any other city has experienced such a turbulent history, hardly any other city has changed so quickly, and hardly any city reinvents itself so frequently.

25 years after the fall of the Wall, Berlin is more diverse than ever—whether in urban locations such as the park that was once Tempelhof airport, reclaimed former industrial sites or City West. The metropolis fascinates its visitors with authentic history, exciting trends, high culture and subculture and a one-of-a-kind lifestyle. Our 24 reasons demonstrate why the city continues attracting visitors more than 25 years after the fall of the Wall as well as a lot of unexpected features: ESCAPADES • 50

Dossier

1. Real history. Where it happened.

Berlin is where the future and the past come together. 25 years after the unification, Berlin’s turbulent recent history continues to fascinate visitors. The Berlin Wall Path and the city’s many memorials tell stories about the Wall from both sides and invite you to search for traces of the past.

3. Cultural Metropolis Berlin’s cultural and arts scene continues to set new standards and today represents one of the richest cultural landscapes in Europe, with ever-changing exhibitions in 180 museums and collections, over 400 art galleries, three opera houses, eight major symphony orchestras, many unusual venues, around 100 cinemas and 150 stages. Around 1,500 events, from high culture to subculture, are on offer each day.

4. Lights, cameras, action!

The dream factory on the River Spree is not only a much sought-after background setting and production site. Fans will enjoy this trip to a hub for filmmaking, with the Berlinale, more than 100 cinemas, outdoor film showings, films in museums or even hotels.

5. Glitzy Nightlife Trendy nightspots and exclusive insider tips—as one of Europe’s most legendary party cities, Berlin offers no end to ways to turn night into day.

6. City of Freedom Berlin and the Berliners have reinvented themselves after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

25 years later, Berlin is “the place to be”. The city tells the story of its transformation from the separation of East and West and being a symbol of the Cold War back to a place of freedom, tolerance, creativity and lightness of being.

7. “Nothing Quiet on the Western Front” Berlin is reinventing itself in former West Berlin. Bikini Berlin, the Zoo-Palast and lounges are setting new accents and marking a return to cool in the City West.

51 • ESCAPADES

8. Green Waterfront City Berlin’s true colours may be green and blue: Berlin is an exceptionally green meeting place for day trippers and hobby gardeners with its gardens, historic parks and creative green spaces. But the Spree and the city’s canals are also among the highlights of Berlin.

Hundreds of thousands of tourists each year enjoy boat tours on Berlin’s blue side.

9. Berlin eats well Culinary diversity: Berlin’s restaurant scene is constantly in motion. Casual, classic, trendy or luxurious in one of the city’s 18 restaurants with Michelin stars. There’s always something for every taste.

10. New Trends Berlin has embraced the pioneering spirit and has become an experimental centre for new ideas. Free spaces are being used as new options for social involvement, sustainable consumption and future-orientated forms of urban living. This is where a constant stream of new, pioneering trends, such as upcycling, sharing boxes and co-working are getting their start.

11. International Berlin The German capital is a magnet for people from all over the world and attracts more

visitors each year. More than 57 per cent of visitors to Berlin come from abroad, with most coming from the UK, Italy, the USA, the Netherlands and France. With people from more than 185 nations, Berlin is the most multicultural city in Germany.

12. Sports Metropolis and Major International Events Whether a marathon, the DFB Cup, public viewings or the UEFA Champions League Final: top athletes, recreational athletes and spectators know Berlin for its professional sports, international event highlights, trend sports and top training facilities. Six pro sports clubs playing in five sports make Berlin the capital of sport.

13. In-Demand Location for Conventions and Research Berlin nowadays is in high demand as a location for conventions and meetings. The city continues to gain business thanks to its unique locations and a modern hotel inventory. Meetings and conventions in medicine, science and research make up the largest sector in Berlin’s meetings business. Berlin is also one of the biggest research centres of Europe. Around 300 universities and research institutes promote the networking of research and academics.

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2. Urban Lifestyle The German capital offers unique open spaces where Berliners and visitors alike are invited to be creative. Whether urban gardening at Tempelhof, trying exotic food at the street food markets or stand-up paddling on the Spree, Berlin is always fascinating with its unique, urban lifestyle.

14. Neighbourhood Life This is Berlin, the advanced course. From Moabit and Lübars to Köpenick, visitors have their choice of 96 neighbourhoods in the city’s twelve districts.

15. Recovered and New Places Abandoned places are coming back to life and old industrial buildings are being redeveloped creatively.

Industrial brownfields are thus experiencing a rebirth as trendy locations and are becoming popular addresses for gourmets, designers, night owls and culture vultures.

16. Shopping and Fashion Capital Shop ’til you drop—from luxury department stores to trendy boutiques. Berlin offers an exceptional variety of shopping in large shopping centres, flea markets, smaller shops and exclusive boutiques. When the latest trends are shown during the twice-annual Fashion Week, the fashion world looks to Berlin.

Fashion shows, exhibitions and numerous events attract designers, critics and fashion fans to the fashion capital that is Berlin.

17. Berlin for Everyone The city focuses on welcoming its visitors.

Whether families, teachers, medical tourists or guests with limited mobility, everyone will find their own Berlin.

18. Stronghold for Start-Ups Smart City Berlin Berlin is one of Europe’s most important sites for start-ups and a laboratory for the city of tomorrow. This is where the IT trends of the future get their start. Young, highly-qualified entrepreneurs are drawn to the German capital as a great place to start their own business. Berlin offers the perfect conditions: a relatively low cost of living, good infrastructure and a cosmopolitan atmosphere that enables the modern lifestyle that so many creative types embrace.

PHOTOS COURTESY CAFÉ BELGE

A quarter century after the fall of the Wall, things well-known and things newly discovered shape the city’s rhythm, resulting in constant updates to everyone’s list of top spots in the city.

19. Value for Money Berlin is diverse, trendy and classy and offers a full programme for little money. In international comparison, it can be quite affordable to live in Berlin. This also applies for the visitors, because no other city in Europe offers such affordable accommodation options.

20. Creative and Unique Berlin is creative and colourful. The Currywurst Museum, the Buchstaben museum (dedicated to fonts) and the Trabi Museum are unique curiosities on Berlin’s museum landscape.

21. Summer in Berlin The best for a summer meeting is Berlin.

Guests enjoy the outdoor living at the beach, lakes, parks and festivals.

22. Winter in Berlin Whether shopping for Christmas at one of the sixty Christmas markets or on the festively lit Kurfürstendamm, sipping mulled wine against the historical backdrop of the Gendarmenmarkt, celebrating New Year’s Eve at the Brandenburg Gate or skiing at Tempelhof: Berlin holds its own in the winter.

23. Germany’s Capital The heart of Germany’s democracy beats in Berlin where decisions are taken and state guests are received. Visitors from all over Germany and the world can look over the shoulders of the country’s lawmakers from the glass dome of the Reichstag. The building located right next to where the Wall once stood reflects the past and present of German history.

24. City of Change—Berlin. 25 Years Later. Welcome.

Berlin delights its guests with the unexpected. You might have a surprising encounter in the next neighbourhood or find a fascinating spot that will completely change up your list of favourites. Berlin visits are always memorable: David Bowie described his time in Berlin as the “happiest time of my life”. Wandering around the city’s neighbourhoods and their lively scenes gave the pop icon new perspectives and inspired him to create global hit songs like “Heroes”.

A quarter century after the fall of the Wall, things well-known and things newly discovered shape the city’s rhythm, resulting in constant updates to everyone’s list of top spots in the city.

ESCAPADES • 52

W I L D A T

ON THE EDGE of the famous M A A SA I M A R A National Reserve in Kenya, SA R A H DU F F goes on safari in a place where locals, wildlife and tourists co-exist in conservation harmony.

H E A R T

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IT’S

A Q U I N T— ESSENTIAL AFRICAN S U N S E T.

A S T H E S U N F L A M E S its last rays, a line of zebra languidly traverses across the horizon, silhouettes against a rich yellow sky.

A hyena, face turned towards the last heat of the day, closes its eyes, as if in blissful repose. A herd of Thompson’s gazelle, exquisitely beautiful creatures, stand tightly packed together, munching on grass, while an elephant family slowly crunches its way through a thicket of acacia trees. There’s a timeless feeling, as if this exact scene has taken place a million times before and will be repeated forever.

Saruni Mpoe surveys the impossibly immense rolling plains, taking it all in. “I want

to pass this onto the next generation” he says, with a tinkling of the silver discs on his traditional Maasai bangles on his arm. “Everything has a right to life, and I want to help conserve that. That’s why I work here.”

The here he refers to is the Naboisho Conservancy, a 50,000-acre tract of land north of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya’s flagship wilderness area and home to part of the annual wildebeest migration. One of the greatest wildlife spectacles in the world, the migration is a clockwise movement of 1.5 million wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebras and Thompson’s gazelles from the Serengenti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara to the north and back. With the antelope come the predators: crocodiles, lions, cheetahs, leopard and hyenas—and thousands of visitors hoping to see some of the dramatic kills captured on the Discovery Channel.

While the Maasai Mara (known locally as the Mara), named after Africa’s most famous tribe, the Maasai, has been a reserve since the 1960s, the area around it, an important buffer zone for wildlife, has been used as cattle grazing land. Only in the last couple of years, landowners have created conservancies in an effort to conserve the land and wildlife.

The Naboisho Conservancy is one of these.

It was established four years ago when over 500 Maasai land-owning families decided to join up (“naboisho” means come together in the local Maa language) to form the private conservancy, which would allow for wildlife movement—there are no fences between the conservancy and the Maasai Mara—tourism and grazing.

In order to allow the land to recover from intensive herding, the Maasai now practice controlled grazing. To make sure that there isn’t a significant impact from tourism, there are only six small, unfenced camps (a whopping 350 acres per available bed), and no selfdriving is permitted, so there are only a few cars for each sighting.

It’s a win-win situation all round: tourists see the famous wildlife of the Maasai Mara without having to contend with the traffic jams of safari vehicles come peak season, the dollars generated from visitors goes back to the community and there’s more grazing land for the animals of the Mara.

Suruni, one of the Maasai landowners and a guide at Ol Seki Hemingways Mara, one of the luxury tented camps on the conservancy, enthuses about the conservancy and how it benefits both wildlife and local people. “The Maasai use the money they receive every month from tourism to send their children to school and buy more cows. The grass is shorter here than in the Mara, which means ESCAPADES • 56

GETTING THERE Emirates has daily direct flights to Nairobi from Dubai. • Safarilink has two flights a day on small aircraft from Nairobi and the Maasai Mara, making a stop at the Naboisho Conservancy. flysafarilink.com

W H E R E T O S TAY In the Mara North Conservancy— the Maasai Mara’s largest Conservancy, which incidentally generates the most revenue for its local community—is Cheli & Peacock’s Elephant Pepper Camp.

This exclusive and intimate tented camp has been in the exact same location for 20 years, located away from other lodges, in the depths of the African bush. It lies in the heart of the private and protected Mara North Conservancy, a vast wilderness of rolling plains and lush forest, teeming with wildlife. Its ten spacious canvas tents—including two secluded honeymoon/family tents—are beautifully furnished.

Guests can enjoy extended game drives in this privately managed conservancy, head out on walking safaris led by local Maasai warriors and enjoy the camp’s famed Italian cuisine—be it on bush breakfasts, picnic lunches, evening sundowners or alongside Elephant Pepper Camp’s campfire, listening to lion, leopard and hyena foraging and hunting within metres of the camp! elephantpeppercamp.com Set on a ridge overlooking a waterhole and wildlife-dotted plains, Ol Seki Hemingways Mara has no shortage of places to spot game, from a chair on your private deck, a comfortable sofa in the lounge, the dining room or the outdoor deck around a fire which is lit every evening when you return from game drive. The stylish safari camp has 10 cavernously large tented rooms which are furnished simply but tastefully, warm, attentive staff and the best night time soundtrack: fall asleep to the sound of lions roaring and hyenas cackling. hemingways-mara.com

WHEN TO GO The wildebeest start arriving in the Maasai Mara from July, and stay until October, so during this period you’ll get the best sightings.

However, there is abundant game and predators year round if you don’t want to visit during this peak season. Avoid travelling during the rainy season, which is April and May.

57 • ESCAPADES

THE FIRST THING I S AW W H E N I CAME INTO THE WORLD WA S A N ANIMAL

that animals feel safer to graze because they can spot predators more easily.”

Undoubtedly, Naboisho has an amazing concentration of game. Minutes after getting off the 14-seater Cessna Caravan, which brought us to the conservancy from Nairobi on a bumpy but incredibly scenic flight, we spotted white bearded wildebeest, Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, Maasai giraffes, elephants, olive baboons and zebra. And that was at noon, in the heat of the day, which is generally the worst time to spot game. Over the next few days of bouncing along the dirt roads of Naboisho in a 4x4 with Suruni, we saw blood-spattered hyenas (one disconcertingly crunching a wildebeest’s skull), black-backed jackals, nonchalant lions, lazing in the sun, a pod of water-spouting, grunting hippos, and a regal female cheetah who seemed to know we were photographing her, and posed obligingly on the top of a mound, yawning every now and then to inspire even more frenzied trigger pressing.

While each sighting was exciting, they were made even more meaningful by the insights shared by the joke-cracking (“Which side of the zebra has more stripes? The outside”), DalaiLama quoting Suruni, who showed us where he was born—a small grassy patch near a river.

“The first thing I saw when I came into the world was an animal” he says.

The story of how he came to be a wildlife guide is as inspiring as the success of the conservancy. An Austrian family, on holiday in the Maasai Mara, came to visit Suruni’s village and decided to sponsor him for his education.

They invited him to come to Vienna, and he had the option of moving to Europe, but he found it too cold and crowded and missed home after only a few days. He returned to the Mara, trained at the guiding school, worked on a lion conservation project for nearly two years and then began working as a guide. His objective? To encourage people in his community and tourists from around the world to conserve the wildlife he holds in near-sacred respect.

The biggest threat to wildlife worldwide is habitat loss, and human-animal conflict is a major problem all over Africa, where conservationists and local communities are often pitted against one another on opposite ends of the spectrum. The Naboisho Conservancy, and others like it around the Maasai Mara, are a glimmer of hope—and a blueprint for other areas of land on the edge of parks and reserves. With the help of tourists and people like Suruni, this is how those African sunset scenes in the wild will continue as they’ve always done.

ESCAPADES • 58

By R I C H A R D B R A NS O N 59 • ESCAPADES

after being given all of the information. British tour companies who are members of ABTA or members of the Federation of Tour Operators are prohibited from operating in areas subject to a “non-essential travel” warning.

Many tours have already been cancelled, while travel insurance could be negated. In our case, Virgin Atlantic had to stop flying to Kenya as the dwindling tourism industry made the route highly uneconomical. The conservation of wildlife will suffer too, as this depends upon a flourishing tourism industry.

The Foreign Office warns about the extremist group Al Shabaab. However, travel advisories urging people not to visit countries are exactly what terrorists want. Such advisories destroy economies, causing dire circumstances and resentment, from which enviroments are created where extremism is more likely to thrive. Governments should think carefully about advisories against other countries that suffer terrorist attacks. We’ve had our share of terrorist attacks in the UK and are not treated in this shabby way by other countries. Instead of communicating advisories, we should continue to support countries like Kenya and Bali through tourism and trade.

In the same advisory warning British citizens against travel to Kenya, the Foreign Office also stated: “185,967 British nationals visited Kenya in 2012. Most visits are trouble-free.”

Kenya is an incredible country full of wonderful people, that I have had the pleasure to spend time with on many occasions. I look forward to my next visit.

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WHY T R AV E L ADVISORIES H U RT COUNTRIES AND HELP TERRORISTS

NO C O U N T RY should ever post blanket travel advisories warning citizens not to visit another country. We should all be taking steps to reduce the boundaries between people and nations – not creating deeper divisions.

Over the years, governments have used wide-ranging travel advisories on many developing countries blighted by acts of terrorism. Bali and Kenya are two key examples. However, when the US and UK have been targeted, we have been quick to encourage a return to normality as soon as possible. In 2001, after the atrocities of 9/11 we flew our Virgin Atlantic planes into New York as a way of demonstrating our support and solidarity.

When London was hit by Underground and buses bombings, countries all over the world showed support and didn’t issue travel warnings against the UK. In contrast, Kenya and Bali have been suffering from widespread travel advisories for years. Now, the UK Foreign Office has further suggested that travellers steer clear of areas within Kenya, by advising “against all but essential travel”. The advisory warns of “a high threat from terrorism, including kidnapping” and even a “threat of piracy”.

The Foreign Office is giving a false impression that all of Kenya is too dangerous to visit.

While the government has a responsibility to highlight the facts, advising against all non-essential travel could destroy Kenya’s economy, which depends hugely on tourism.

This is effectively a ban on travel, rather than leaving people to make up their own minds

Look forward to making new friends in Kenya Mara Sopa ***

Price per person from AED 6,715

• Situated on a hilly area of the Masai Mara with beautiful views of the landscape beyond.

• 50 guest cottages in a traditional African round house style with conical roofs.

• Nature walks can be taken with a guide to look out for small game and birdlife.

• Interconnecting family rooms and children’s menus available.

• Evening entertainment includes traditional dancers in their vibrant Masai colours, giving an insight into local tradition.

Make the most of your holiday • Enjoy a hot air balloon ride for expansive views of the Masai Mara and beyond; from AED 1,730 per person.

• Visit a traditional village and see how the Masai families live.

• Spot the Big Five - rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard and a myriad of other plains game.

• Take a guided walk in the bush for a different perspective on your incredible surroundings.

Keekorok Lodge ****

Price per person from AED 6,790

• One of the original lodges in the Masai Mara, located in a prime wildlife viewing area. Unique stone built bungalows in extensive manicured grounds.

• Variety of room types available from Standard room to Presidential suites.

• The 300 metre raised walkway is ideal for game viewing including the resident hippos that wallow at the nearby watering hole.

• Morning and evening game drives, swimming pool and spa facilities available.

• Relax with a refreshing sundowner overlooking the Mara plains.

• Enjoy a moonlit bush dinner and star gaze as the sun sets in the African skies.

• Purchase exquisite handicrafts created out of local materials.

Kicheche Bush Camp *****

Price per person from AED 8,395

• Small, classic, intimate, luxury tented camp located in the Masai Mara within the Olare Motorogi Conservancy bordering the Reserve.

• Boutique camp with six luxury tents, each with en-suite bathrooms, plush furnishings and a private veranda.

• Private, personalised safari experiences available on game drives and walks.

• Dining options include intimate and refined al fresco dining or dinner served at your tent. If you like, the option to dine with your personal safari guide is available.

Inclusions: Prices are based on Economy Class return airfare, 1 night accommodation with breakfast at Ole Sereni in Nairobi, return domestic flights Nairobi to Masai Mara, 2 nights’ accommodation in the Masai Mara on full board basis, game drives, return airport transfers on private basis, airport departure taxes, room tax and service charges.

Visit your local Emirates Holidays outlet, call toll free 800 5252, book online at emiratesholidays.ae or contact your travel agent and ask for Emirates Holidays.

MORE THAN JUST

PROVENCE lies in

the sun-kissed south-eastern corner of France.

Its illustrious coastline is known as the Cote d’Azur, but the nearer you get to Italy, the more it gets referred to as the French Riviera. JUSTIN FOX packed his swimming trunks and a bow tie and set off to explore this destination of the fabulously rich and famous.

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Imagine a quiet cove with turquoise water, a

terrace shrouded with purple bougainvillea, the distant putter of a motorboat…another drink before siesta, anyone?

HE FRENCH RIVIERA holds an irresistible allure. Given its warm ocean and postcard beaches, olive groves and vineyards, medieval towns and tangled alleyways, travellers have been drawn to its beauty for centuries.

With 300 days of sunshine a year, 115 kilometres of coastline, 18 golf courses and more than 3000 restaurants, it’s no wonder this place attracts tourists like bees to honey. Once a string of sleepy fishing villages, in the late 1800s the area was transformed into a glamorous playground for the elite, but also a favoured spot for artists, craftsmen, and gastronomes.

King Leopold II of Belgium started a royal trend in the 19th century. Queen Victoria loved it here and dreaded returning to wet, grey England. Today, it’s a second home to more billionaires, playboys and Hollywood stars than just about anywhere else on the planet.

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Beside an azure sea The Cote d’Azur’s most spectacular stretch of coastline lies between Nice and Monaco. It was this part of the eastern Riviera that I wanted to visit. My partner and I flew into Nice from London and hired a car for a week of exploring.

We rented an apartment in the seaside village of Beaulieu-sur-Mer. Backed by cliffs, this is one of the Riviera’s warmest towns in winter. Its palm-fringed promenade overlooks the Baïe des Fourmis, also known as ‘Petite Afrique’, making us African travellers feel right at home.

Beaulieu suited us perfectly: far enough from the bustle of Nice and within easy walking distance of glamorous Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, but without the bank-busting prices. The town had everything we needed: a lovely beach,

plenty of good restaurants, a morning market for fruit and veg as well as a boulangerie, chocolatier and patisserie (for warm, breakfast croissants) just a stone’s throw from our pad.

Each day we set off exploring in a different direction. First came Nice, the Côte d’Azur’s attractive capital. Fringing the shores of the Bay of Angels, Nice’s beaches are studded with characteristic blue umbrellas and packed with sun lovers, the air heady with the scent of coconut-oil suntan lotion. The adjacent, palmtree lined Promenade des Anglais is thronged with rollerbladers, joggers, cyclists and dog walkers in a constant parade that ends only after nightfall.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach, set off on foot among the twisting alleyways of the Old Town, Vieux Nice. At every turn you’ll find quaint cafés and boutiques to slow your progress. On the seaward side of the Old Town lies the Cours Saleya, which hosts one of the most vibrant daily markets in the south of France.

If you’re in a more cultural frame of mind, visit the Musée Matisse, dedicated to the life and work of the artist. Also check out some of the city’s fine architecture, especially the baroque St Réparate Cathedral and Lascaris Palace.

Don’t miss the picturesque Old Port flanked by pastel-coloured buildings and packed with luxury yachts of every shape and size.

OPENING SPREAD: DAIVD HUGHES; THIS SPREAD: RICHARD SEMIK (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Heading east from Nice on the Moyenne Corniche, the slopes are dotted with villas whose gardens cascade down the hillside.

Between Nice and Beaulieu lies the bay of Villefranche, the deepest natural harbour on the coast. The Greeks and later the Romans used this protected inlet as a stop-over en route to their settlements around the western Mediterranean.

The terracotta-roofed town steps down the slope to the old harbour, which dates from the 17th century. Built originally for the galleys of the Duke of Savoy, it’s now an upmarket marina. The finest thing you can do here is find a waterfront café and let the afternoon, and the world, drift by. At sunset you might decide to amble up to the citadel, find a perch on one of its grey battlements and watch the light soften over Cap Ferrat.

The billionaires' peninsula ON THE DAYS we weren’t keen on driving, the peninsula of Cap Ferrat lay within easy walking distance of Beaulieu. It has some of the most expensive holiday real estate in the world and makes for wonderful exploring on foot.

In the 19th century, King Leopold bought up most of the peninsula and built the fabulous ESCAPADES • 64

I TA LY

(THE REST OF)

FRANCE

Nice

plan Your trip BEFORE YOU GO

Orange

Avignon

Nice Manosque

Grasse Menton

Salon-de-Provence Cannes

Arles Fréjus

Aix-en-Provence Toulon Marseilles

villa Les Cèdres, established a vast botanical garden (which still exists as the private Jardin Botanique Les Cèdres) and began promoting the coastline as the perfect holiday destination.

In his wake came kings and queens, deposed princes and the international über-rich. Later, Charlie Chaplin bought a house here, as well as actor David Niven. The writer Somerset Maugham purchased Villa Mauresque in 1928 and described Cap Ferrat as ‘the escape hatch from Monaco for those burdened with taste.’

Winston Churchill came here to chill out with his hobbies: painting and, would you believe it, brick-laying.

The entire peninsula can be walked in a few hours along a picturesque footpath that hugs the shoreline. Pack a bathing costume, hat and plenty of water. You pass secret coves and sparkling beaches, anchored super-yachts and millionaire’s mansions that make Clifton look downmarket by comparison. If you want a peek at the opulence of Cap Ferrat’s residents, visit the Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild Museum, housed in a Tuscan-style villa built for the Baroness de Rothschild. It’s a storehouse of over-the-top paintings, tapestries and porcelain Paloma is the prettiest beach, just southeast of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat port. It’s reached down a steep flight of steps and has a decent restaurant. The imposing lighthouse on the southern headland was built by Napoleon III who wanted to equip the French coast with a chain of semaphore stations.

plastic flowers but has good fresh fish (ask for the dourade royale) and a delicious soupe-defraise strawberry dessert. After each meal, we’d walk home along the sea path, the waves gently chiding the rocks below. The air was balmy and perfumed with jasmine; the lights of anchored yachts waltzed on the water.

Speaking of dining, Provençal cooking is world famous. The cuisine takes advantage of the region’s natural bounty. There’s colourful ratatouille, a dish made from tomatoes, eggplant, onions, peppers and zucchini; or socca, a chickpea-and-olive-oil pancake from Nice; and of course bouillabaisse, the

Grab a baguette, some brie and tomatoes and fresh fruit, and you’ll be dining like the Rothschilds, almost.

dining In and Out ALTHOUGH EATING OUT is generally expensive, we found a quaint, affordable restaurant in St-Jean that became our local.

Captain Cook has pink tablecloths and pink

famous seafood soup from Marseille served with a creamy garlic sauce. Certainly, there’s no shortage of traditional seafood dishes on local menus. How about escalope de mérou au citron (escalope of sea bass in lime), salmon tournedos with truffles, cod and vegetables in garlic sauce or skate with capers? Great meat dishes include filet de boeuf rossini cooked with foie gras.

On a hot day, keep it cool and light with salade Niçoise, the signature dish of the region which comprises tomatoes, green beans, tuna, new potatoes, hard-boiled eggs and anchovies on a bed of lettuce.

If you’re on a tighter budget, dining at home can be just as fun. Local markets have highquality ingredients. Wander among stalls packed with freshly-picked lettuce, hanging salamis, huge cheese wheels and barrels of olives. Grab a baguette, some brie and tomatoes and fresh fruit, and you’ll be dining like the Rothschilds, almost.

Nice’s Côte d’Azur Airport has daily flights to and from major hubs such as Paris and London.

Check out travelstart.co.za for good deals on flights. The daily, high-speed TGV train from Paris to Nice is also a good option (en. voyages-sncf.com). • We found that hiring a car gave us the kind of flexibility we wanted. All the top car-hire brands (Avis, Hertz, Europcar) have outlets at Nice Airport and in town. • The rail service along the coast is first rate. The Nice–Ventimiglia train stops at all the important tourist towns. Pick up a timetable for the region at any station. The local buses are also excellent, regular and cheap.

WHERE TO STAY The French Riviera has a vast array of every kind of accommodation type. Your budget is the only determining factor.

We found that one of the most affordable (and nicest) options is to hire a self-catering cottage or apartment, which gives you independence and flexibility.

The best way to book is through an internationally recognised accommodation website such as tripadvisor.com, lastminute.com or airbnb.com.

READING LIST Tender is the Night by F Scott Fitzgerald is set in the glamorous Riviera of the 1920s and traces the extravagant and ultimately painful lives of rich American ex-pats. • A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle is an ever-popular, autobiographical account of this British travel writer’s first year in Provence, and the peculiar local events and customs he encountered. • For good, well researched guidebooks, look no further than Provence & the Cote d'Azur by Alexis Averbuck and John A Vlahides (Lonely Planet, 2013) and the beautifully illustrated Provence & the Cote d'Azur by Roger Williams (Dorling Kindersley, 2012).

RIGHT PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: T NIKOLAY DIMITROV / SHUTTERSTOCK, O_LESYK / SHUTTERSTOCK, JUSTIN FOX, JOCHEN SCHOENFELD / SHUTTERSTOCK,

GETTING THERE AND AROUND Draguignan

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You’ll need a Schengen visa. The French Riviera gets swamped by tourists in the summer months.

Book well in advance, particularly if your visit coincides with a major event such as the Cannes Film Festival or Monaco F1 Grand Prix.

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LEFT PAGE: SEAN NEL / SHUTTERSTOCK; RIGHT PAGE, TOP TO BOT: RICHARD SEMIK / SHUTTERSTOCK, JUSTIN FOX

exploring The back country IF YOU FANCY GE T TING AWAY from the coast and discovering some of the Riviera’s hinterland, there are a number of villages perchés or ‘perched’, hilltop towns that are well worth a visit. Most were built defensively in the Middle Ages: a nest of stone houses and alleys clustered around a castle and wrapped inside ramparts. Two of the prettiest are Èze and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Medieval Èze clings like a barnacle to a rocky pinnacle high above the ocean and is dominated by a ruined fort now turned into a cactus garden. Once occupied by the Phoenicians, then fortified as a stronghold by the house of Savoy, today Èze plays host to galleries and boutiques.

We wandered the labyrinthine lanes, poking our heads into low-ceilinged shops and over walls into petite gardens. Every now and then we caught jaw-dropping glimpses of the coast with Corsica shimmering on the horizon. Car free and flower bedecked, Èze is quaint and impossibly romantic.

Far below, lay the village’s coastal counterpart, Èze-sur-Mer, where U2’s Bono and The Edge own neighbouring houses. The precipitous path that connects the twin villages was once tramped by philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche as he worked out his theory of the Übermensch. One might well feel like an Übermensch upon reaching the top (a vertical 427 metres), but not, I would image, at any point on the way up. We didn’t test the theory.

Northwest of Nice lies the Riviera’s most famous village perché. Saint-Paul-de-Vence has for generations been a home to artists, most notably Marc Chagall, and is still crammed with art museums and galleries.

Don’t miss the Fondation Maeght, which houses an exceptional collection of 20th-century art, and the nearby Rosaire Chapel, a beautiful space designed and decorated by Matisse.

Despite being inundated with tourists, Saint-Paul’s 16th-century fortifications and buildings have remained largely intact. We arrived one afternoon, pausing at the city gate to watch a nail-biting game of boules on a square shaded by plane trees. Pascal had a slight edge over Marcel and Claude, but it looked like it was going down to the wire.

Flanking the boules pitch lies the Colombe d’Or auberge whose regulars have included some of the greatest artists of the 20th century, including Matisse, Picasso and Braque. Many of them settled their bills with paintings in lieu of payment and the walls are still adorned with priceless works of art.

Saint-Paul’s entrance is protected by a tower with machicolations (projecting battlements so you drop stuff on the enemy’s head) dating from the 14th century, vestige of the medieval town walls. Once inside, you can happily while away a few hours meandering the cobbled streets from gallery to craft shop to artist’s studio. Or, better still, lose yourself in a maze of lanes that echo with the sounds of a thousand years of habitation.

At sunset, climb the ramparts and feast your eyes. Behind you lie tightly packed streets and terracotta-roofed houses; at your feet are oliveand-vine-covered valleys stretching in every direction. In the distance, a line of beaches and palm trees, then an endless canvas of Mediterranean blue painted to the horizon: an azure coast indeed.

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IMAGES FROM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC: 125 YEARS AROUND THE WORLD PUBLISHED BY TASCHEN, AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE FROM KINOUKUNIYA IN DUBAI MALL (AED 2400) AND WWW.TASCHEN.COM

AROUND THE WORLD IN 125 YEARS A journey through time with National Geographic In celebration of its 125th anniversary, National Geographic has given Taschen complete access to its archives to distill the journey of a lifetime into three prodigious volumes featuring photographs—many unpublished— almost as rich, deep, and colorful as the world itself.

Here’s our selection from the plethora of equally awe-inspiring images that you’ll find in the limited-edition compendium.

Jodi Cobb Papua New Guinea, 2000 Even ghosts and other terrifying spirits deserve an occasional respite at the annual sing-sing, or tribal festival, near the village of Garong.

These Asaro mud men daub themselves with river clay and don ferocious masks in imitation of those ancestors who first assumed the spinechilling disguises in order to frighten off their enemies.

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Steve McCurry Iraq, 1984 Baghdad’s splitdomed al-Shaheed Monument, or Martyr’s Memorial, an eternal flame blazing at its heart, ostensibly commemorates the Arab victory over the Persians at al-Qadisiyyah in A.D. 637. That was the battle Saddam Hussein invoked in 1980 before invading the modern Persia, Iran. Eight years later, when with the help from the West, the Arab Gulf States, and the liberal use of chemical weapons he ended the IranIraq War (1980–88), the monument also came to honor the nearly half million Iraqis killed in that conflict (a million Iranian dead did not count)—all in vain, as not an inch of territory ultimately changed hands.

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Gordan Gahan East Germany, 1973 Seen from its overhanging castle, the old timberframed town of Stolberg winds down into a misty Harz Mountains valley. The old resort had survived the turbulent course of German history largely intact, although the family of the prince of StolbergStolberg had been dispossessed of its castle in 1945, when the town fell into the Soviet Occupation Zone, which eventually became that Marxist satellite state, the German Democratic Republic.

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Paul Nicklen Antarctica, 2012 Leaving a contrail of air bubbles in its wake, an emperor penguin rockets through the water, gaining the needed momentum to launch itself clear of a hole in the Ross Sea pack ice. The birds are famous for their spectacular leaps—one thing that helps them elude leopard seals—but only recently has it been discovered that the air bubbles act like a lubricant, cutting excess drag and improving speed.

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Steve Winter Mexico, date uncertain A strange sight to encounter in a Mexican dugout canoe: two captive jaguars sprawled out, greeting the photographer with a growl.

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Thomas J. Abercrombie Lebanon, 1957 A shepherd leading his charges down a busy Rue Georges Picot epitomizes the contrasts often encountered in mid-20th century Beirut: He wears Arab garb but also a Western-style jacket. Part Muslim and part Christian; part East and part West, Lebanon’s capital was the “Paris of the Middle East,” as famous for its glittering cafes as for its banks, bazaars, and trading houses.

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Paul Nicklen Canada, 2011 Nestled deep in British Columbia’s verdant rainforest, a “spirit bear” devours a salmon.

Really a variety of a black bear—a recessive gene is responsible for its white pelage—the spirit bear, or Kermode, was revered by the province’s once numerous indigenous inhabitants.

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Steve McCurry Sri Lanka, 1995 Perched on wooden stilts, Sinhalese men fish for spotted herring in the monsoon-lashed surf pounding Sri Lanka’s south coast. When the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami crashed over these same beaches, it took the lives of 35,000 Sinhalese with it.

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THE

GOLDEN ROAD

TO

SAMAR KAND C E N T R A L A S I A lies way off most people’s travel radar. But the southern states of the former ussr—known as the Stans—do have some unexpected gems. J U S T I N F O X took the long, dusty road to the fabled city of Samarkand.

TA K I N G A S TA N

MY JOURNEY BEGAN in Turkmenistan, where I was due to meet the Silk Road expedition as it passed through the capital, Ashgabat. This wealthy nation made the transition from Soviet Republic to autocracy under the leadership of Turkmenbashi, the self-styled ‘leader of the Turkmen’.

He ruled from 1985 until his death in 2006 and created a personality cult, building a capital of white marble and filling it with statues of himself.

On a bright May morning, I emerged from the arrivals hall of Ashgabat’s Soviet style airport. The taxi journey into town was, to say the least, an eye opener. We drove down boulevards of white-marble palaces, gold statues and fountains better suited to a sci-fi movie than a Third World city in the middle of a desert.

I met up with the overlanding team and we explored this strange city. ‘Since independence, we have become a

OPENING SPREAD: DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK (LEFT PAGE), JUSTIN FOX (RIGHT PAGE)

THERE ARE AS MANY reasons to travel as there are types of journeys. Some people need the security and dependability of a package tour to Europe, some seek the paradise of a tropical island, others yearn for adventure and the unknown. However over time, most travellers find a rhythm, a formula and a type of destination that best suits them.

But sometimes, just sometimes, it’s a good idea to break the formula, drop yourself in at the deep end, maybe even pick a destination you have absolutely no desire to visit … and see what happens. The Stan countries were just such a destination for me. They were nowhere near the top of any itinerary I’d ever imagined for myself. Besides, where on earth were they?

However, when a friend suggested I meet her in Ashgabat, I thought ‘what the hell?’ It was one of those rare opportunities to smash the mould and do something really different. I wasn’t disappointed.

Every year, a Canadian-South African company runs a three-month, self-drive trip in Land Rovers along the Silk Road from Europe to China. The tours are led by an intrepid Chinese woman, Yue Chi, who somehow manages to thread her way through the complexity of border crossings and arcane bureaucracy of the region.

Some, like Turkmenistan, have become bizarre dictatorships similar to North Korea. Others, like Kyrgyzstan, have become volatile democracies with periodic revolutions. Some guests do the whole journey, others fly in for sections.

Yue suggested I join them for the most exotic leg—the Stan countries at the very centre of Asia’s Silk Road. Since the disintegration of the USSR, the union’s southern states—the Islamic ‘Stan’ countries—have sought to find their political feet and define their national identities.

A fledgling tourism industry is beginning to attract Western travellers, with Uzbekistan’s three ancient cities providing the major draw card. But travelling in Central Asia is difficult, the roads are bad, distances long and the languages opaque, so it’s best to go with a group.

JUSTIN FOX (BOTH)

wealthy country,’ said our enthusiastic guide. ‘Under the Soviets, all our gas and oil money went to Moscow. Now it stays here. Our people are happy. We have free water, free electricity, free petrol. We have the biggest national flag in the world, the biggest carpet, the tallest fountain.

Turkmenistan is rising up to become a great nation.’

Much of the sightseeing involved looking at ugly modern buildings and outsize statues. Ashgabat’s national monuments were imposing grotesqueries. Take for instance the Arch of Neutrality, which dominates the skyline at one end of the city. It’s a cross between a Sputnik rocket and a kitchen implement and is topped by a 12-metre gold statue of the Great Leader which revolves, following the course of the sun through the day.

At last we set off on a northerly trek through the Karakum Desert. Towards sunset we turned onto a rough track and headed east into a lunar landscape. The lead vehicle drew up at a camping spot in the elbow of a hill overlooking a large crater. Getting out of the cars, we heard a low roaring.

‘That’s Darvaza gas crater,’ said Yue. ‘As it gets darker, you’ll see how the hole glows orange.’

While the drivers pitched our tents, the rest of us walked down the hill to take a closer look. The crater had a diameter of 70-odd metres and the air above it shimmered with methane. I inched closer to the lip and peered into a cauldron of flames.

‘Just like the Gates of Hell,’ muttered Yue.

S TA N

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UZBEKISTAN IS THE cradle of culture in Central Asia. For the better part of two millennia, camel caravans snaking along the various Silk Roads passed through a trio of wealthy cities beside the Oxus River.

Despite the pillaging and destruction of warlords down the ages, from Genghis Khan to Joseph Stalin, these trading cities retain their charm and still work their magic.

A golden afternoon found our 4x4s trundling across a plain towards the mud-walled city of Khiva, once famous for its slave market and impregnable fortress. I imagined us as part of an ancient camel caravan, having crossed deserts and steppes, endured freezing nights and attacks by wild tribesmen, to finally reach the towering gates of Khiva.

We parked outside the city and entered on foot through the ornate, western portal. Here was the IchonQala—the inner city—in all its glory. Beside the gate stood the mud-walled Ark, for centuries the fortress and residence of Khiva’s rulers. We wound our way through the throne rooms, harem, barracks and up a flight of stairs to the watchtower for gorgeous views of roofs, minarets and battlements.

Wandering the cobbled lanes of Khiva is like stepping into the pages of the Arabian Nights. Wailing music pours from high windows, a doorway is adorned with a cat basking on a Persian carpet, women tend to looms in darkened interiors. A camel sagely chews her cud as she watches the world go by; the call to prayer echoes across the roofs. We passed a series of alcoves where slaves were once displayed for sale. ‘Pretty young girls fetched the highest prices,’ tittered our guide with a mouthful of gold teeth.

Next came Bukhara, the region’s holiest city, crammed with sumptuous Islamic architecture. As capital of the Samanid dynasty in the 9th and 10th centuries, it experienced an intellectual and commercial renaissance. Back then, Bukhara boasted a vast marketplace with dozens of bazaars and caravanserais, 300 mosques and more than 100 madrassas (Islamic schools) housing 10 000 students.

We spent days exploring the sights. There are circuitous warrens of multi-domed bazaars that can waylay you for hours. The carpets and embroidery work here are excellent and affordable, as is the jewellery and earthenware, leading to many a hard-bargaining detour.

Our second evening found us at a dinner-show in the Nadir Divanbegi, a former madrassa. There was traditional music and dancing by lithe young women. We sat 91 • ESCAPADES

WH E N TO G O

Spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October) are the best times to visit the Stans as summers are scorching and winters bitterly cold.

G E T T IN G THER E

Depending on which leg you join, Emirates via Dubai and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul are your best bets.

S TAY IN G THER E

Your best option is taking a guided tour. I travelled with AAST Inc (Asia Adventures and Study Tours), which offers the ‘Drive the Silk Road’ package, a fully-catered, self-drive journey from Europe to China. The trip is undertaken between April and June using Land Rovers provided by the company: three months, 15 countries, 20,000 kilometres and no more than 16 travellers. Choose any leg that takes your fancy.

WH AT IT CO STS

My leg (19 days through the Stans) cost about $10,000.

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in the courtyard, eating shashlyk (lamb kebab), plov (a staple of rice and vegetables) and nan bread. The sound of lutes, fiddles and frame drums dipped and swirled about us as the women danced, sometimes veiled, sometimes in Russian Cossack garb, then in flowing Indian robes or whirling in dervish mayhem. All of Asia was there in their costumes and movements, and in their genes, for their features seemed a comely blending of the whole continent.

Then east, into the rising sun across the dusty steppe.

The lines of James Elroy Flecker’s 1913 poem, ‘The Golden Journey to Samarkand’ echoed in my head: Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells When shadows pass gigantic on the sand, And softly through the silence beat the bells, Along the Golden Road to Samarkand.

Like Timbuktu or Xanadu, the name Samarkand conjures a place that hovers somewhere between fact and romantic fiction. Its fame reaches back into the fog of time. In 329 BC, Alexander the Great exclaimed, ‘Everything I have heard about Samarkand is true, except that it’s more beautiful than I ever imagined!’

This city is the jewel in the crown of the Silk Road. Its centrepiece, the Registan, has been painstakingly restored.

This is medieval Samarkand’s commercial heart and is dominated by three madrassas facing each other across a square. Their façades are a riot of colourful majolica and azure mosaics that dazzle the eye. It’s best to set aside a whole day to explore these buildings with their gold-leafed interiors, cool courtyards and colourful bazaars.

It’s sunset on Registan square. A few notes of baksheesh slipped to the friendly policeman gains you access to the tall minaret. Its spiral staircase narrows until your body presses the sides. You squeeze out the top like a cork to find all of Samarkand laid out in gold at your feet.

A sickle moon hangs above snow-capped mountains to the south. Beyond them, Afghanistan and trouble.

But here it is all peace. Children play in the square below, dervish music trilling from a ghetto blaster. Stars begin to prickle above the domes. You narrow your eyes to erase the suburbs. Out there, in the distance, you see a caravan wending its way towards Samarkand, laden with trade goods, the thick-haired Bactrian camels straining forward at the prospect of water and rest. Tonight, man and beast will take their ease in this, the most beautiful of all Silk Road cities.

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LEFT PAGE, TOP 2: JUSTIN FOX; BOTTOM: ELENA MUZYKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK; RIGHT PAGE: RADIOKAFKA / SHUTTERSTOCK; PREVIOUS PAGE: DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK

T H E LA S T S TA N

G I V E N S T R A I N E D R E L AT I O N S between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan, as well as drugs such as opium making their way up from Afghanistan, the border crossing was a long and rigorous procedure. Kyrgyzstan is an alpine country surrounded by tetchy lowland neighbours—a small, mountain nation of horsemen that’s seemingly lost in an earlier century. It has none of the wealth of its neighbours and, when the Russians withdrew, much of the industrial base fell into disrepair. Nonetheless, it possesses some of the finest scenery in Central Asia and a fledgling adventure-tourism industry has the potential to drag the country up by its bootstraps.

With our vehicles stuffed to the brim with provisions, we drove into the mountains, bound for a lodge in the picturesque Chychkan Valley. The road was narrow, potholed and winding, the local drivers all maniacs seemingly bent on suicide.

The hills grew lush and rolling and were filled with horses. These bucolic scenes were interrupted by blighted towns, derelict factories and shattered coal mines. It looked as though the Russians had pulled out in a hurry, without any coherent exit plan, leaving the infrastructure to disintegrate.

Our Land Rovers skirted a series of reservoirs plugging the Naryn River. The scale was vast and gorgeous with snowy peaks ringing the compass points. It was pitch dark and freezing by the time we arrived at our lodge, tucked in a forest and overlooking a gnashing stream.

Next came a big day traversing a swathe of mountain country. The slopes were psychedelic green and cut by bubbling brooks sporting rickety bridges. Valleys were dotted with nomad yurts; large herds of horses grazed the

slopes. Traditionally, farmers move into the upland jailoos (summer pastures) with their flocks of sheep and goats in the late spring. It’s part of an age-old system of transhumance that reaches back into the hazy past of the Tien Shan.

In the soft light of evening we reached Kochkor down a long avenue of poplars. It was a nondescript, dusty town with a frontier feel about it. There were no hotels or guesthouses, but Yue knew a family we could shack up with for the night. It was a scruffy, rambling house, but the rooms were comfortable and there was hot water and good food.

Next day, our route led south towards China over a series of passes that bisected snow-clad mountains.

On either side, grassy meadows with foals and children gambolling, girls on swings that hung from willow branches, gold-toothed crones and bearded gents sitting before their yurts sipping kumis (fermented horse milk thickened with barley) and discussing their horses and herds. It was positively Arcadian.

This, I thought, is why you drop off the tourist maps.

Finally Naryn, the last big town before the Chinese border. It was here that I had to leave the group, taking the long road to Bishkek and an even longer flight back to South Africa.

We stopped at the top of a pass for goodbyes. The Land Rovers started up. Yue blew kisses, then lowered her sunglasses and turned to the road.

I’d broken my travelling mould, dropped myself into the deep end of Central Asia, way off any beaten track I’d ever considered … and it had opened my eyes as never before.

Off went the little caravan, deeper into the Tien Shan. They still had many thousands of Silk Road kilometres to cover before reaching Beijing. I stood watching them for a long time. Soviet Islam with camels and marble palaces and gas craters and ancient cities of impossible mystery: that’s just what off-piste travel can do for you.

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The Beach

10 Things to do in Mauritius Without Getting Sand Between Your Toes

by Lucy Corne

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01 Hike the national park Perhaps the single most surprising realisation for visitors to Mauritius is that there is a national park sitting in the centre of the island. And while the Black River Gorges National Park can hardly give the Serengeti or the Kruger a run for their money, it is not lacking in natural charm.

This is prime bird-watching territory and if you’re lucky you might spot monkeys and deer as well.

Most people make do with a short drive through the park, stopping for photos at the numerous lookout points overlooking waterfalls, forest, mountain and coast. It’s a fine way to get a feel for the park, but if you have the time—and the energy—tackling the terrain on foot is definitely the way to go. The undergrowth is dense and trails can be tough to follow, so hiring a local guide—or at least seeking out a decent map—is highly recommended.

02 Get a sugar hit It doesn’t take long to work out what the main crop on Mauritius is - sugar cane plantations spread across almost every corner of the island. Sugar has played an important role in the island’s culture and history and homage is paid to it at L’Aventure du Sucre, a museum in the north of the island. Detailed exhibits chart the rise of sugar on Mauritius and how it shaped the island’s past before moving on to the production of the plant and the process that turns it into sugar.

OPENING SPREAD (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): ANDRZEJ KUBIK, DIBROVA, BARBRO BERGFELDT, EVGENIA BOLYUKH (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Mauritius has long been a vacation playground for those in search of the ultimate relaxing break. The coast is dotted with high-end resorts, the oldest of which turns 40 next year and in four decades, people haven’t tired of paradisiacal beaches, warm turquoise ocean and fine weather.

With Emirates announcing that from December, they will operate a twice-daily A380 service between Dubai and the Indian Ocean island, it’s never been easier to spend some time in paradise.

But for repeat visitors or those looking for something a little more adventurous, is there more to Mauritius than sand and sea? In fact, the island has a rich cultural heritage, interesting landscapes, a fascinating history and some great food. And the best thing about these forgotten treasures is that they’re lesser known and therefore less visited than some of the island’s beaches. Here’s a checklist to get you started.

03 Eat lunch at a market

LEFT PAGE (TOP TO BOT): SERGEY TIMOFEEV, RUGGIERO SCARDIGNO; RIGHT PAGE (TOP TO BOT): EVGENIA BOLYUKH, KKULIKOV (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Mauritius has great street food and there’s nowhere better to sample it than at one of the provincial markets. The country’s number one snack is dholl puri, a roti-like bread made with split pea flour and filled with bean or lentil curry and an array of flavourful accompaniments including chilli (most dishes in Mauritius come with a side of mazavaroo, actually and beware—this chilli paste can be very hot!) Other favourites include gateaux piment (literally chilli cakes—small deep-fried dough balls with a slight hint of spice) and boulettes—steamed dumplings and meatballs in a light broth—a simple play on dim sum. For those with a sweet tooth, the syrupy Indian sweets mithai provide a sugar hit, as does alouda, an odd soft drink counting basil seeds and condensed milk among its ingredients. Try the Mahébourg market on a Monday, Centre du Flacq on Wednesday and Sunday or the side streets near Port Louis’s vegetable market pretty much any day of the week.

04 Get to grips with some Mauritian icons in Port Louis’s museums Ironically, the one thing that most people associate with Mauritius has been extinct for a couple of centuries. But the dodo still plays a role in island life, its almost caricature-like form featuring on all sorts of

products from tissues to tea.

For the best encounter with the lovable-looking bird, head to the Natural History Museum in the island’s capital, Port Louis.

The museum is free to enter and most of its exhibits are of limited interest, but it’s worth a visit to see the reconstruction of the extinct bird and read up on the dodo’s demise.

Also in Port Louis is the Blue Penny Museum, housing another Mauritian icon. This 167-year-old, incredibly rare stamp is revered and lit up for the public to see for just 10 minutes every hour.

The stamp itself is, well, just a stamp, but the story surrounding it is interesting and the museum has a superb collection of old maps as well as exhibits detailing Mauritian history.

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05 OK, so you might get a little sand between your toes here, but it’s worth it. Mauritius has a number of miniscule islets dotted around its coastline, some of which are easy to reach on small, simple boats. Chat to a local fisherman in La Gaulette on the west coast to negotiate a day rate to visit Île aux Béntiers.

The lagoon in which it sits is so shallow you could probably wade there from the mainland if you wanted to, though a fishing boat and some snorkelling gear make the trip altogether more enjoyable. Over on the east coast, a range of vessels visit the increasingly touristy Île aux Cerfs, ranging from 10-seater motorboats to faux pirate ships complete with skull and crossbones flags. As well as warm, shallow water and tree-lined beaches, Île aux Cerfs also offers a range of water sports, a couple of restaurants and an obstacle course through the trees.

06 Take tea A close contender for the crown of Mauritians’ favourite drink is tea, which is grown in pockets around the island. There’s even a route to follow, taking in tours and tastings at three plantations.

You can tackle La Route du Thé however you want to, or just choose one of the estates. Bois Cheri, in the southern part of the central plateau gives the best all-round view of tea production. The short tour is decent enough and the views from the restaurant where tastings take place are delightful. Teas come in a range of flavours—vanilla is the classic, but you also get mint, tropical fruit and coconut varieties (the latter with a label featuring the dodo).

99 • ESCAPADES

CLOCKWISE FROM BOT LEFT: SAPSIWAI, PUSHISH DONHONGSA, BLUEORANGE STUDIO (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Jump on a boat

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HESSBECK / SHUTTERSTOCK, ALEX DIBROVA / ISTOCK, TIAN ZHAN / ISTOCK

07 Go for a drive It sounds so simple, but many people only ever leave their resorts on organised tours—or not at all. Mauritius only has one major highway (connecting the airport to the capital) and it can be slow-going driving around the rest of the island, so try not to cover too much in one day.

The views are rewarding though, particularly along the coast, where the sugar cane plantations almost reach the ocean.

08 See a Séga show The French and Indian impact on Mauritian life are evident everywhere; the Chinese influence slightly less-so, but the African roots of the island are barely visible at all. One place where you will see a spark of Africa is in a Séga show. Séga is a sensual, often improvised dance accompanied by the beat of a goat-skin drum and singing that evokes both Africa and Latin America. It is thought that the shuffling, feet-don’t-leavethe-ground moves date back to the slavery era, when such movements would have been necessitated by shackles.

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09 Eat the culture

10 Splurge for the afternoon For some, staying in an ultra-luxurious resort is a standard part of a Mauritian holiday. For others, it’s an unattainable dream, but 101 • ESCAPADES

even if you don’t end up staying in one of the high-end hotels, you should still visit one. Most of the resorts have restaurants that are open to the public and some also offer spa treatments to non-guests. For extremely fine dining in divine surrounds, head to Rasoi by Vineet at the One&Only Le Saint Géran, perhaps the finest resort on an island awash with luxurious places to stay. The restaurant serves Indian-inspired dishes, but elevates familiar curries to a whole new level, with refined dishes enjoyed on a deck overhanging a lagoon.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: QUANTHEM, PEREDNIANKINA, LUCY LIU (SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL)

Mauritius is the classic melting pot—French, Indian, Creole and Chinese cultures coming together and merging to create a Mauritian identity. And the one place where these different cultures really seem to unite is in the kitchen. Mauritian food is true fusion cuisine—Indian spices with island seafood and a splash of coconut milk or Chinese noodle dishes sporting French names served with a side of creole chilli paste. Despite the rich and varied cuisine, Mauritius is little known as a destination for foodie travellers, but the wealth of different ingredients and cuisines make it a great place to experience local life through local food. And the best place to do this is at one of the island’s tables d’hote—communal meals often hosted in someone’s home.

Look forward to getting used to this in Mauritius

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• All rooms and suites are brightly decorated and feature beach views and a balcony.

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Le Méridien Ile Maurice ****

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• Stands at the edge of 1,000 metres of sparkling ivory sands on the North-West coast of Mauritius.

• Offers an array of dining options in a variety of settings from Mediterranean cuisine or traditional Indian spices to more leisurely tropical fare.

• Variety of water sports, beach games and activities available including water-skiing, sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, volleyball, beach football, bocce ball and water polo.

Save 20% on accommodation from 1st - 31st Oct 2014.

Earn 1,000 bonus Skywards Miles

Make the most of your holiday • Book the 1001 Fragrance & Colour tour to discover hidden cultural sites and scenic views on this island paradise; from AED 630 per person.

• Uncover the secrets of Mauritian cuisine with a market visit & cooking demo; from AED 635 per person.

• Have fun on a fantastic day out at sea on a catamaran trip to Ile aux Cerfs; from AED 545 per person.

• Discover the beauty of Mauritius’ marine life with an underwater sea-walk; from AED 940 per person.

• Visit a local restaurant and enjoy the atmosphere and rich flavours of this island nation.

• Visit Casela Park for its many activities and wildlife viewing experiences.

• From Mauritius’ West Coast cruise to sea for splendid opportunity to swim with dolphins.

LUX* Belle Mare *****

Price per person from AED 7,340

• Set beside a spectacular white sandy beach, the resort is a vibrant beach getaway with thatched-roof villas on the East Coast.

• Enjoy the LUX* concept, offering fun experiences from surprise poolside ice-cream vendors to mystery locations for sunset beverages and the red London phone booth from where you can call home with the compliments of the hotel.

• Variety of sports and leisure activities available including a dive centre, snorkelling, glass-bottomed boat rides, outdoor pool, spa and two floodlit tennis courts.

• PLAY - the kids club has a fun filled programme and own pool.

Book 3 nights and get the 4th night free from 1st Sept - 15th Dec 2014.

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History

Photography & War

1 of 2

T H E D E VAS TAT IN G E VE N TS

Motorised gun carriage with an antiaircraft gun, Verdun, 1916.

Photo: Jules GervaisCourtellemont © Taschen

Soldiers pose in a concrete trench.

Photo: Hans Hildenbrand © Taschen/LVR LandesMuseum Bonn

The Colours of Catastrophe Rediscovered autochrome photography of the First World War

103 • ESCAPADES

of the First World War were captured in myriad photographs on all sides of the front. Since then, thousands of books of black-and-white photographs of the war have been published as all nations endeavour to comprehend the scale and the carnage of the “greatest catastrophe of the 20th century”.

Far less familiar are the rare colour images of the First World War, taken at the time by a small group of photographers pioneering recently developed autochrome technology.

To mark the centenary of the outbreak of war, this groundbreaking volume brings together all of these remarkable, fully hued pictures of the “war to end war“. Assembled from archives in Europe, the United States and Australia, more than 320 colour photos provide unprecedented access to the most important developments of the period— from the mobilization of 1914 to the victory celebrations in Paris, London and New York in 1919.

The volume represents the work of each of the major autochrome pioneers of the period, including Paul Castelnau, Fernand Cuville, Jules Gervais-Courtellemont, Léon Gimpel, Hans Hildenbrand, Frank Hurley, Jean-Baptiste Tournassoud and Charles C. Zoller.

Since the autochrome process required a relatively long exposure time, almost all of the photos depict carefully composed scenes, behind the rapid front-line action. We see poignant group portraits, soldiers preparing for battle, cities ravaged by military bombardment – daily human existence and the devastating consequences on the front. A century on, this unprecedented publication brings a startling human reality to one of the most momentous upheavals in history.

French warplane, Caudron G3, 1914.

The First World War was the first time air warfare played a role in combat. Together the British and the French had at their disposal about the same number of airplanes as the Germans. Aerial reconnaissance by the Royal Flying Corps contributed considerably to the stopping of the German advance on the Marne.

Photo: Jules GervaisCourtellemont © Taschen

Victory celebration at Arc de Triomphe, Paris, 14 July 1919.

Photo: Léon Gimpel © Taschen

French airship Alsace shot down on 3 October 1915, near Rethel.

The crew survived unharmed and were taken prisoner.

Airships were not just used for aerial reconnaissance, but also for the bombardment of civilian and military targets.

Photo: Hans Hildenbrand © Taschen/LVR LandesMuseum Bonn

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History

Photography & War

2 of 2

A British tank from the Mark series in Péronne near Amiens. Tanks were first used in autumn 1916 by the British to break the deadlocked fronts. Their first success was in November 1917 in the Battle of Cambrai. The Allies could muster up to 6,000 tanks. In Germany the importance of the new weapon was initially underestimated. Not until spring 1918 did the only Germanmade tanks, A7V, come into use in combat. Just 20 of these tanks were manufactured by the end of the war.

Photo: The American Committee for Devastated France © Collection Mark Jacobs

British ambulance, 1914. Motorisation made possible the large-scale and relatively quick transport of the wounded to the medical staging area for the first time.

Photo: Jules GervaisCourtellemont © Taschen

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View across the Meuse of the devastated Verdun.

Photo: Jules GervaisCourtellemont © Taschen

Ammunition depot in France, 1918. The photo was taken on assignment of the American Committee for Devastated France (1917–24).

Founded by Anne Morgan (1873– 1952), a daughter of financier J. P. Morgan, this committee tried to assuage the suff ering of French war refugees. The photographs were used to illustrate the situation to Americans and in soliciting donations.

Photo: ShellsLafaux © Collection Mark Jacobs

German trench canteen.

Photo: Hans Hildenbrand © Taschen/LVR LandesMuseum Bonn

About the Author PE T E R WALT H E R has edited various publications on literary, photographic, and contemporary historical themes, including books on Goethe, Fontane, Thomas Mann, and writers in the First World War, as well as several illustrated books with historical colour photographs. He has also curated several exhibitions. He is particularly interested in early colour photography techniques.

The First World War in Color is available in English, German and French from taschen.com (AED 250).

ESCAPADES • 106

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Occupying pride of position on the higher levels of the hotel, our Presidential and Royal Suites present truly magnificent lifestyles to discerning guests. Each of our distinct Presidential Suites boasts interiors that reflect French, Italian and European themes as well as incomparable amenities, while the Arabian-inspired Royal Suite offers luxury spread across two levels. All four suites also offer panoramic views of the city through landscape windows.

ENJOY A SuITE SuMMER

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French-inspired Presidential Suite - living Room

Enjoy complimentary breakfast, return airport transfers, as well as access to Wild Wadi Waterpark and the private beach All suites offer the services of a private butler, private check-in and check-out as well as unique added benefits Delight in all-day soft beverages, light lunches, pre-dinner refreshments and canapés in the Club Executive Lounge Royal Suite - Dining Area

Terms and conditions: •

Offers is valid for stays until 30 September 2014 at Jumeirah Emirates Towers

•

Bookings are subject to availability and offer is valid on bookings for Presidential and Royal Suites only, based on the Best Available Room Rate

•

Complimentary breakfast applies to buffet breakfast only per person, per room and not applicable to in-room dining orders

•

Private beach access is available daily and Wild Wadi Waterpark access once per person, per stay

•

AED 2,000 shopping discount voucher booklet for Boulevard

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Rates are payable in local currency, subject to local taxes and service charge

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Rates are subject to 10% municipality fee, 10% service charge and the Tourism Dirham fee

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Offer is not valid in conjunction with any other offer or promotion

•

Reservation must be guaranteed by a credit card at the time of booking

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Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts reserves the right to change the terms and conditions without prior notice

For bookings and information, call +971 4 319 8555, email JETreservations@jumeirah.com or visit jumeirah.com/suitesummer

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L A S T THE

STOP

Ever since the late renowned film critic Gene Siskel asked Oprah, “What do you know for sure?” and she got all flustered and couldn’t come up with an answer, she never stopped asking herself that question. She’s been coming up with an answer every month for her column in Oprah magazine. Here’s Oprah’s all-time top 20 things she knows for sure.

113 • ESCAPADES

1. What you put out comes back all the time, no matter what.

(This is my creed.)

2. You define your own life.

Don’t let other people write your script.

3. Whatever someone did to you in the past has no power over the present. Only you give it power.

7. If the only prayer you ever say is thank you, that will be enough.

(From the German theologian and humanist Meister Eckhart.)

8. The happiness you feel is in direct proportion to the love you give.

9. Failure is a signpost to turn you in another direction.

4. When people show you who they are, believe them the first time. (A lesson from Maya Angelou.)

10. If you make a choice that goes against what everyone else thinks, the world will not fall apart.

5. Worrying is wasted time.

Use the same energy for doing something about whatever worries you.

11. Trust your instincts.

Intuition doesn’t lie.

6. What you believe has more power than what you dream or wish or hope for. You become what you believe.

12. Love yourself and then learn to extend that love to others in every encounter.

13. Let passion drive your profession.

14. Find a way to get paid for doing what you love. Then every paycheck will be a bonus.

15. Love doesn’t hurt. It feels really good.

16. Every day brings a chance to start over.

17. Being a mother is the hardest job on earth. Women everywhere must declare it so.

18. Doubt means don’t. Don’t move. Don’t answer. Don’t rush forward.

19. When you don’t know what to do, get still. The answer will come.

20. “Trouble don’t last always.”

(A line from a Negro spiritual, which calls to mind another favorite: This, too, shall pass.)

EVAN AGOSTINI

The Top 20 Things Oprah Knows for Sure