PHARMACY & DEPARTMENT STORE RETAIL BEAUTY TRADE JOURNAL
ISSUE 60 APR 2019
6O
th
TALKING Point PUTTING THE RETAILERS FIRST
ISSUE
COMMUNITY PHARMACIES, DEPARTMENT STORES AND INDIE RETAILERS ARE OUR
readership heartland
Australia’s Key Beauty Buyers name their
‘Hot 60’ products!
It’s what’s NOT inside that counts.
It’s what we leave out that makes the difference. ®
N O
parabens. sulfates. harsh chemicals.
Just Goat’s Milk and a whole lot of love. The Goat Skincare, made by our family for yours.
www.thegoatskincare.com.au
For order enquiries please email info@core-metrics.com.au
EDITOR’S LETTER 01.
02.
Celebrating your Super 60th issue! I always write my Editor’s Letter as we’ve signed off every page; the designer has drained her palette and the printer has a glint in his eye for the fodder he’s about to nourish himself on. Today I put pen to paper on your 60th issue of esprit and the pride I feel in this achievement is heart-popping.
It’s not just the quirky brands and independent retailers. They’ve done the hard yards and found the customer engagement. Now you’ll find ‘green and clean’ from David Jones and Myer flagship city stores through to the major grocery and DDS outlets - Big W being notably proactive in this ‘responsible’ beauty & personal care space.
While I may not know each and every one of our beloved readers, I do know a lot of you. Come rain, come shine, chic central Sydney venue or far-flung warehouse, crack of dawn or into the night, I’ll be there to meet you, delve into your story, pamper myself with your products, create written content, insta it all and generally get stuck in...always in my pearls, as you’ll see! For 15 years in Australia this has been my life and YOU have paved the path that I tread. Thank you.
We work happily, eagerly and consciously to bring you ‘the book’ as we affectionately call esprit Magazine, each quarter, with pride and purpose to help you do your job better. Whether you are a BA learning and taking career inspiration from our INFLUENCER section or a CEO consolidating your thoughts on an industry issue through reading what your peers are saying, in Elisabeth King’s insights and analysis reports; every word, topic and angle is delivered with our diligent attention to ‘what’s in it for YOU – our reader’.
I do it because I love it. There’s so much that fascinates me, entertains me, warms my heart, disrupts my thinking and a story that gives me the shivers. Now in your 60th issue and our 15th year of esprit we’re experiencing a beauty world of greatergood. Sustainable and ethical sourcing, with-purpose commitments, commonplace Fairtrade agreements, vegan, organic and Leaping Bunny certified, and giving back, are all part of the brand story.
4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
As I change from the “I” to the “We” I bring my hands to my heart as I praise our contributors for their inspired and entertaining content. They all craft their columns with grit and gusto, find the facts and fashions, perspectives and predilections in news and comment that you cannot get anywhere else ‘all under one roof ’. You can trust esprit to be a reference book today and over time. Personally, I love that the NSW State Library has every copy since 2004, and they contact us for a top-up if one goes missing!
Do take a look over the page to our Contributors (page 8) and peruse the regular columnists; and see the Expert Writers in our BUSINESS and INFLUENCER sections.
Esprit Magazine Australia website We are also expanding our touchpoints as esprit evolves digitally, with a fresh website. Developed to reflect an everevolving retail beauty industry www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au will be interactive, easy to navigate and relevant. We’ll have people and products, news reports and hot topics. Sign up to our newsletter via the website and play your part in guiding us to what you want more of, who you want to hear from and what’s making you tick. We’re in this together!
01. NICCI AND ME OUT & ABOUT IN BEAUTY LAUNCH MODE...
02. …AND ME GETTING THE BACKSTORY, IN THE WAREHOUSE WITH LEGENDARY BRAND CREATOR/DISTRIBUTOR, SALLY DESANCIC OF CORE METRICS
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issue
60 Contents
COVER STORY – TRILOGY VITAMIN C BOOSTER TREATMENT – 10
Snapshot
“Trilogy Vitamin C showcases the passion that Trilogy has for monitoring industry trends, researching new ingredients and utilising new technologies, to ensure we’re at the forefront of innovation in the natural category”, says Jane Lawry, Trilogy Global Brand Marketing Manager
TREND – AGE AGNOSTIC SKINCARE – 14
Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment Women of all ages should include vitamin C in their skincare routines regardless of skin type and concerns, says Corinne Morley, Trilogy Head of Global Education. “Anti-ageing experts around the world consider it to be a powerhouse for skin rejuvenation. Ascorbic acid is the gold standard to fast-track benefits and the fresh activation delivery of Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment is on-trend for the world we live in where everyone wants instant results”. The new release is a unique product in the natural self-select category, says Morley. “Tracking the popular customisation and DIY trends, the two component chambers contain naturally-sourced, 100% pure vitamin C powder and a hyaluronic acid base serum. Women simply have to pop the top to release the vitamin C powder, shake the bottle to mix and substitute the pipette dropper for the cap and they are good to glow.”
Contact details esprit Magazine Australia Editor Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Sales & Marketing Director Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au NEW MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 Issue 60: ISSN 1449-8018
The Top 10 Global Trends Pivoting The Conversation on Ageing
INTERVIEW – 18 Terry Little, Managing Director of The Estée Lauder Group of Companies ANZ
AUSTRALIA’S TOP BEAUTY BUYERS’ LIST – 20 Six buyers name their favourite Hot 10
TALKING POINT – PUTTING THE RETAILER FIRST – 28
Previous issues
How Brands Help To Drive Awareness, Growth and Sales In Store – by Elisabeth King
INDUSTRY NEWS – 36 News and moves: including the latest from the trade expo floor at the Australian Pharmacy Professional conference event
NATURAL BEAUTY – 48 The growth of organic, natural beauty & personal care across Australia
THE BUSINESS OF RETAILING – 64 Liz Webster, retailing guru, shares tips to getting new brands on shelf
OUT & ABOUT – 74 Working that room – here’s where to keep up with people & brands in the business
RESCU ME ACADEMY EXPERT – 90
Subscribe
to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips. Go to: espritmagazineaustralia.com.au
ESPRITMAGAZINEAUSTRALIA @ESPRITMAGAZINE
Nigel Stanislaus – rescu me Academy’s expert fronting the Be Your Own Makeup Artist course gives his tips to managing customer expectations
BRAND NEWS – 96 New Product Launches - the glorious mixed bag of goodies going on counter from April
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pores
Create your custom-blend hydrator. Hydrate + treat. 15 combinations.
& une
© 2019 Clinique Laboratories, LLC
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Formulated without parabens, phthalates and fragrance. Just happy skin. clinique.com.au
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Customise, don’t compromise. Concerned with irritation? Pores and uneven skin texture? Uneven skin tone? Fatigue? Lines and wrinkles? Choose one of three hydration bases, insert one of five cartridges with concentrated actives and you’re done. Instant, optimised results with every use. Three months of product in each bottle. Great skin, your way. International patent pending. New. Clinique iD.™ 125ml, $60.*
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ven t
Revolutionary.
Expert
Contributors ELISABETH KING MARY ZAVAGLIA AINSLIE WALKER
MICHAEL BROWN ICY LING ACCORD
Associate Editor
Business Features
ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to leading newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book - Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.
ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
MARY ZAVAGLIA
MICHAEL BROWN
The name Mary Zavaglia is recognised by women all over Australia as one woman they can trust to make them look and feel good. An authority in all facets of beauty reporting, commentary and direction, Mary is both an award winning beauty journalist and hair stylist. During her career she has interviewed some of the most elegant stars including Australia’s Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts, Miranda Kerr and Kylie Minogue as well as Hollywood stars such as Julia Roberts, Courtney Cox, Andie MacDowell and pop princess Fergie. Mary has built up a reputation as the beauty expert who will try anything once for the good of her readers. She investigates, questions, trials, travels and then reveals all.
Growing up as a dancer in Perth, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘Art’ of Make-up Artistry and in 2001 he landed his first role in retail cosmetics as an event make-up artist. Michael’s career as a travelling makeup artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney in 2006 where he became a National Makeup Artist and Makeup Trainer for AUS/NZ. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him wide exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene, that when he went freelance in 2012, his journey was only at the beginning…Michael is now not only a Celebrity Makeup Artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as beauty voice at rescu.com.au.
AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.
Calling Beauty Assistants WANT TO WRITE FOR ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA? You’re our readers but why not write for us too. Send in a few lines on your suggestions. We want to hear about your life on the shop floor – events, challenges, your successes – whether it’s a sparkly department store or a busy community pharmacy – so long as it’s beauty focussed. Contact Andrea andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’. After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.
esprit CARE ERS ONLINE
Log on to www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au/ careers for all the latest jobs in beauty
SKIN TRUE UNDERTONE CORRECT Discover Your Ideal Match
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GOOD TO
Glow BY ELISABETH KING
TRILOGY’S VITAMIN C BOOSTER TREATMENT PROVES FRESH IS BEST FOR GLOWING RESULTS
Vitamin C is the superstar of skincare and its popularity is at an all-time high for one compelling reason – it works. Recommended by dermatologists, skincare experts, make-up artists and celebrities, the multifunctional complexion brightener is one of the most searchedfor skincare ingredients on the Internet. The cult active not only boosts the luminosity of the skin, its collagen-stimulating benefits firm and smooth and help to treat UVinduced sun damage. 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Women of all ages should include vitamin C in their skincare routines regardless of skin type and concerns, says Corinne Morley, Trilogy Head of Global Education. “Anti-ageing experts around the world consider it to be a powerhouse for skin rejuvenation. Ascorbic acid is the gold standard to fast-track benefits and the fresh activation delivery of Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment is on-trend for the world we live in where everyone wants instant results.” CUSTOMISATION UNIQUE IN SELF-SELECT/HIGHLY POTENT
The new release is a unique product in the natural self-select category, says Morley. “Tracking the popular customisation and DIY trends, the two component chambers contain naturally-sourced, 100% pure vitamin C powder and a hyaluronic
acid base serum. Women simply have to pop the top to release the vitamin C powder, shake the bottle to mix and substitute the pipette dropper for the cap and they are good to glow.” There are hundreds of vitamin C products on the market, but many start to degrade the minute they are opened because vitamin C is unstable. The vitamin C in old products or in those that have been poorly stored may be ineffective, so consumers could be wasting their time and money, says Morley. “Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment has been formulated as a two-week high potency product to be used twice daily. This format appeals to younger consumers who like to be more involved in their skincare routines and to older women who know their ingredients and understand the importance of vitamin C in reviving tired, dull skin”. Because vitamin C degrades when exposed to light and oxygen, many serums come in dark or opaque bottles, says Morley. “We have used a clear bottle to allow people to see if the vitamin C powder has thoroughly blended with the hyaluronic acid
BETTER TEAM WORK/ SCIENTIFICALLY PROVEN AND CERTIFIED NATURAL
Vitamin C may be an all-star, but a skincare product works better with other powerful team members, especially antioxidants, when it comes to anti-ageing benefits, says Morley. “Hyaluronic acid is a hero ingredient which instantly hydrates the skin and minimises the appearance of wrinkles. Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment also contains daisy extract to intensify luminosity and further reduce the appearance of age spots and pigmentation. We have also incorporated our solvent-free, cold-pressed rosehip oil with a minimum essential fatty acid content of 80 per cent to repair, hydrate and strengthen the skin. Mandarin orange peel oil, another coldpressed essential oil, uplifts the senses for an added aromatherapy touch.” Vitamin C has a pseudo-medical reputation because its benefits are scientifically proven. The reason why so many dermatologists and skincare experts recommend high quality vitamin C products is because they work, says Morley. “The technology and development behind Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment is extremely important and sets it apart from other products - natural and mainstream. All the ingredients are certified by NATRUE, the world leading natural cosmetics certifier. In a consumer trial, average self-assessment results from 30 women using Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment for two weeks and applied twice daily, 71 percent of women reported an overall improvement in skin radiance over the recommended two-week period of use. Used alone, the treatment delivers an amazing glow which makes it perfect to use before weddings, job interviews, major events or when skin looks tired and dull.”
Treatment contains 6 percent vitamin C powder, says Morley, and is suitable for sensitive skins. “The powder is also dry before being mixed which makes it more stable.” Trilogy has also launched Vitamin C Moisturising Lotion. Consumers can use both products on their own but using them in tandem extends the glowing results of the treatment, says Morley. “Vitamin C stimulates the formation of collagen, the skin’s support protein that keeps it looking younger, firmer and healthier. Its antioxidant power also neutralises free radicals to protect the skin against pollution and sun damage.” If ascorbic acid is the power performer, other vitamin C derivatives are more stable and less irritating to the skin. Trilogy Vitamin C Moisturising Lotion contains sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a watersoluble, natural compound which has been a game-changer in the skincare category. The effectiveness of vitamin C lasts longer and women access many of the same benefits from skin repair and rejuvenation to age spot reduction, says Morley. “Fresh and lightweight, the lotion is a good choice for younger women and those with very sensitive skin or those prone to redness.” IN THE FOREFRONT OF INNOVATION/ TRACKING GLOBAL TRENDS
Our new vitamin C offerings showcase the passion that Trilogy has for monitoring industry trends, researching new ingredients and utilising new technologies, to ensure
COVER STORY
base serum and also to check that the fresh mix is still colourless. Any yellowing in a vitamin C product means that it has oxidised and is less effective. Another bonus of the Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment.”
we’re at the forefront of innovation in the natural category, says Jane McCarrison, Trilogy Global Brand Marketing Manager. “Globally, beauty products that deliver instantlike results for specific skincare concerns, like brightening and pigmentation, are in growth across a wide age spectrum. Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment and Trilogy Vitamin C Moisturising Lotion fill the gap in our current range. They are formulated to bring new fans to the brand and introduce existing customers to a cosmeceutical-like, affordable beauty treatment that is proven to improve radiance by 71 percent in two weeks*.” Morley says the new Vitamin C Booster Treatment is like yoga for the skin. “Just pop, shake and glow for real results. What could be simpler? Our new Vitamin C Booster Treatment has a low pH for maximum effectiveness but is gentle enough for even sensitive skin types. This beauty launch will be our biggest campaign ever and for Trilogy’s new and existing fans, we have developed a multi-layered sampling plan – be quick to gets yours now! There’s plenty of scientific research that the long-term use of vitamin C delivers improved skin texture and quality, so it’s a win-win for everyone to include vitamin C in their daily skincare routine and in such a fun way”. *Average self-assessment results from 30 women using Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment over two weeks. Used twice daily. Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment RRP $39.95 (12.5ml) Trilogy Vitamin C Moisturising Lotion RRP $39.95 (50ml) www.trilogyproducts.com @trilogyproducts Instore from 1ST April 2019
DOUBLE BENEFITS/GAMECHANGING DERIVATIVE
There is a word of caution with vitamin C. Many serums contain percentages of 10 to 20 percent, but too much vitamin C can be irritating for women with sensitive skin or rosacea. Products with 1.5 to 3 percent vitamin C produce impressive results, which is why high percentages can have unwanted side-effects. Trilogy Vitamin C Booster ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |11
Age Agnostic
The
Top 10 Global Trends
Pivoting The Conversation on Ageing by Elisabeth King
Over the past few years there’s been a mini-flood of catchy terms to describe the evolving conversation about anti-ageing – from pro-ageing through well-ageing and healthy ageing. Two years ago, Allure, the prestigious US beauty magazine, banned the use of the description anti-ageing from its pages because “it reinforces the message that ageing is a condition we need to battle – think anti-anxiety meds, antivirus software or anti-fungal spray”. Did such revamped terminology and initiatives signal a completely new attitude to the anti-ageing cosmetic market? Yes and no.
14| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Similar Priorities Across Age Spectrum/ Universally Acceptable Products
Euromonitor International has come up with a new term - Age Agnostic - and has tapped it as one of the top 10 consumer trends for 2019. The researcher accurately points out that the key to winning and retaining loyalty and trust is to develop products that are universally accessible while designed for older people in mind. Baby Boomers came of age during the first major Youthquake, a word coined in the 1960s and resurrected as the word of the year in 2017 by Oxford Dictionaries, which means they have much in common with the values and priorities of Millennials and younger generations, notes Euromonitor. The driving force behind the Age Agnostic trend is that people want to remain active, contribute to society and maintain ageless attributes and look the best they can. Older generations, soon to be joined by Millennials, also have the numbers. In Japan, for example, half of the population will be over 50 by 2025 and Australia’s median age will be over 40. Gen Xers are in their late 40s and 50s and most are still working. Many are in senior positions and still have school age children or have inherited wealth. They want products and services that help them stay looking as youthful as possible for longer and are the prime market for anti-ageing skincare, nutraceuticals and supplements. To add a scholarly note, a recent study from the Yale School of Public Health revealed that the gap between actual and perceived age widens with time. Despite the focus on selfies peopled with Millennials and Gen Zers, all generations are tech-savvy because the world wide web went live 27 years ago and 88 per cent of Australians own smartphones. Due to widespread connection to digital, older consumers are much more aware of their health and attractiveness and have a deeper knowledge of beauty and skincare products. Senior models and bloggers have helped to re-shape the ageing-well dynamic and women of all ages are looking to protect youthfulness and combat the effects of pollution, sun exposure and environmental assaults which can age the skin faster than the passage of time. Skincare makers are responding to consumer demands by creating anti-ageing products that improve the skin’s ability to maintain and restore radiance, hydration and firmness to produce healthier-looking skin.
In-Demand Benefits/Asia Rules
Worldwide, the anti-ageing category is booming. Lucintel, the global management consulting and market research firm, which includes haircare in its recent report on the global anti-ageing market, predicts it will reach US$66.2 billion by 2023. Euromonitor has also crunched the data on the top most benefits global consumers look for in skincare and the leading three are: moisturising/hydration, sun protection and antiageing. The major motivations to purchase today, adds Euromonitor, are to improve the look and feel of the skin, achieve clear, healthy-looking skin, to prevent the signs of ageing and correct the signs of ageing. According to a recent Mintel report, 70 per cent of women aged 55plus want beauty brands to discuss the ageing process. Not by slapping “for mature skin” on the packaging but talking more about hair and
skin issues associated with ageing. R&D budgets in skincare are also increasing rapidly because of APAC’s position as the number one regional skincare market in the world where fastageing populations offer even more lucrative opportunities. Chinese consumers aged 20 to 49, for example, define the top three signs of ageing as - fine lines (63%), loose skin (61%) and dull skin (56%). Asian women also start reaching for anti-ageing skincare much earlier than their Western counterparts with 87 per cent of Asian female consumers aged 20 to 39 using anti-ageing products. Shiseido, in particular, has been at the forefront of appealing to “silver generations” because Japan already has the highest median age in the world at 46.9 years.
TREND REPORT
Changing long-held views and attitudes takes more than an upbeat moniker. But at least the trend towards a more positive and accurate view of how consumers have pivoted the conversation on ageing has real legs and very long ones, too. Psychographics, the marketing of products targeting the personal habits and lifestyle of consumers rather than their linear age, dates back to the end of the First World War and moved into the mainstream in the 1960s. This longtime approach is now on steroids because not only are people living longer, today’s over 50s and 60s are the wealthiest and healthiest older generation in history and the oldest cohort of Millennials is approaching the age of 40.
What’s In Store for 2019 and Beyond?
Consumers are searching for youth-enhancing products, but without the language associated with it, says Alyssa Behrendt, research analyst at Kline Group. “Terms like anti-ageing and wrinkle reducing are losing their edge with consumers as the wellness market grows more prominent in the skincare market. Instead, products which focus on overall skin health using phrases like “renewing” and “transforming” promote anti-ageing products in a positive light, making them more appealing to consumers”. Looking at this year’s calendar of launches, retinol has resurged strongly, as have cold-pressed oils, multi-benefit masks and more simple-to-use products in line with the clean beauty trend. Facial skincare sales in mass are on the comeback trail as Johnson & Johnson, Garnier, Olay, L’Oréal Paris and more harness the power of green and professional quality formulas with new releases such as Aveeno Positively Radiant Max Glow, Olay and Garnier facial mists and Vaseline Clinical Care. Retinol remains the only ingredient clinically proven to reduce lines and wrinkles, which is why it has made such a resounding return for many brands. Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum blends the line-diminishing power of retinol with the skin barrier repair potency of ceramides. In early March, Estée Lauder released the latest addition to its Perfectionist franchise in Australia - Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol Treatment. A professionally-inspired formula that delivers smoother, more even-toned skin in 28 days. Customised skincare is old hat for Clinique, who pioneered the concept over 50 years ago with its famous 3-Step System. The Lauder-owned brand has redefined the growing DIY trend for today’s consumers to fully customise skincare for their individual needs. Clinique iD went on sale in Australia in late February and offers consumers their favourite Dramatically Different Moisturizer base - Hydrating Jelly, Moisturizing Lotion and Oil Control Gel - and they take their pick of cartridges filled with actives such as brightening AHAs, calming lactobacillus ferment and more to suit their skin needs. The dermo-cosmetics market is also growing strongly in the anti-ageing category reveals a report from Fact.MR, the global insights provider, through major brands such as Avène with its recent DermAbsolue serum launch and La Roche-Posay. Other emerging opportunities being leveraged by skincare brands include organic and vegan and CBD (cannabis-inspired) and ingestible powders and supplements with enhanced benefits such as stress relief and sleep support. All categories that suit women of all ages rather than random demographics.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |15
STRENGTHEN AND REPAIR YOUR HAIR EVERY TIME YOU COLOUR
the new Nice’n Easy promise What’s the first concern a woman has when she’s considering colouring her hair at home? She’s going to damage her Crowning Glory. Her hair will break off and go brittle within a week! As a world-leading home hair colourant, Clairol Nice’n Easy is perfectly positioned to power its R&D efforts into just this potential barrier to buying. Clairol Nice’n Easy Repair works its magic at the source to strengthen and restructure hair every time she colours. WHAT’S IN IT FOR ME
Clairol Nice’n Easy Repair was developed after research showed
Colouring your own hair at home
that for women the #1 barrier
is a commitment. The pros have to
to colouring their hair is fear of
outweigh the cons. “Our breakthrough
damage. The new Nice’n Easy Repair
Repairplex technology means you no
features cutting edge hair colour
longer have to compromise between
technology that works its magic by
great colour and healthy hair”, says
strengthening and repairing hair with
Divya Gujral. Nice’n Easy Repair will
every use, resulting in stronger, more
deliver your best colour result whilst
beautifully coloured hair.
providing 2x the repair for up to 97% less hair breakage.”
HOW IT WORKS
Key selling points that the brand is
“Plex has been a game changer within
educating the consumer on, through
the hair colour market over the last few
messages on the carton and at point of
years, helping address concerns about
sale, feature the Repairplex strong hair
colour damage. Now a regular treatment
promise, loud and clear. Strengthening
in salons, there is still a lot of opportunity
and restructuring with every colour and
to enhance and improve the home hair
conditioning at every step are the leading
colour experience by bringing the added
points of difference. With skin allergies
benefits of Plex to consumers who
and irritations becoming commonplace,
regularly colour their own hair”, says Divya
innovation, backed with the trust and
Clairol has developed the ME+ allergy
Gujral, Senior Brand Manager Clairol, ANZ
heritage of Clairol’s iconic Nice’n Easy
gentle molecule, says Divya Gujral:” This
brand. Our new Nice’n Easy Repair
is a revolutionary hair dye molecule that
technology that actively rebuilds bonds
franchise will be an opportunity for our
better protects people without a hair
within the hair that have been weakened
existing customers to trade up, and for
dye allergy by reducing the chance of
by regular colouring. The quality of your
new customers to try a more premium hair
developing one”.
hair is improved with every use, resulting in
colour at home – all whilst addressing their
stronger locks, and longer lasting colour – a
no.1 home hair colour fear – damage.”
“Our REPAIRPLEX features micro-bonding
key benefit for those customers who colour their hair every four to six weeks.” “It is great to be able to offer consumers the latest home hair colour 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
With a selection of 18 gorgeous shades, and 100% grey coverage, Nice’n Easy
A fresh floral scent and non-drip permanent colour crème add to the pleasant experience. With all the benefits of application and
Repair will provide the ultimate home hair
results, customers can expect natural
colour experience.
looking colour which they will truly love.
NEW
STRONGER HAIR VS. HAIR COLOURED WITHOUT REPAIRPLEX
100% GREY COVERAGE NATURAL LOOKING COLOUR
STRENGTHENS & RESTRUCTURES EVERY TIME YOU COLOUR
CONDITIONS AT EVERY STEP
ALLERGY GENTLY* MOLECULE
NON-DRIP COLOUR CRÈME
FRESH FLORAL SCENT
*FEATURING ME+ ALLERGY GENTLE MOLECULE
A revolutionary hair dye molecule that better protects people without hair dye allergy by reducing the chance of developing one.
TOP LEVEL TALKS TERRY LITTLE MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE ESTÉE LAUDER GROUP OF COMPANIES ANZ
IN CONVERSATION WITH TERRY LITTLE
by Elisabeth King
Effective leaders have to be a captain of the ship, not just someone with a hand on the helm. That means analysing and adapting plans to changing opportunities and challenges and supervising the activities of executives and staff at all levels for the good of all. Terry Little, Managing Director of The Estée Lauder Group of Companies ANZ for over 11 years, is widely recognised as a guiding force and mentor in the Australian beauty market and a keen supporter of industry issues as Vice Chair of Accord Australasia, the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetics, fragrance, personal care and toiletries categories from startups to major multinationals. Terry Little has worked in the beauty business in the UK and Australia for over 25 years and has a helicopter grasp of the industry. “In terms of overall view, the industry has changed enormously. Prestige beauty consumers now decide where they want to shop and how. If they are looking for the full-service experience, they go to department stores. Those who prefer a more playful environment head for specialty stores such as Sephora. One of the biggest changes has been the behaviour of younger consumers who get a lot of their information from YouTube 18| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
these days because they want to look before they buy”. TOTAL RETAIL/ DEPARTMENT STORE RESURGENCE
But Little has no truck with anyone who says that the department store is dead. “The redevelopment of David Jones Elizabeth Street in Sydney is on track to become the best department store in the Southern Hemisphere with 12 floors of retail. The flagship will offer first-rate retailtainment - theatre, experience and upmarket eating areas where people can
enjoy themselves. The department store industry, like many others is cyclical, and these trends were popular years ago. They are being revived for new generations because these are things that people will always want”. The partnership between Sephora and David Jones, which launched in Melbourne’s Bourke Street store in November, is a great initiative, says Little. “New customers are drawn into David Jones stores and existing ones have a wider choice of brands. Although both department store chains have made great efforts with their online businesses, they still have a bit of work to do to reach global best practice standards. I don’t use the term omnichannel, I prefer the description total retail because customers sometimes want service and at other times prefer to
SUSTAINABILITY AND GIVING BACK TOP OF MIND
buy online. I am a major fan of click-andcollect because it gets more customers into stores and they frequently buy something else, in addition to the goods they are picking up”. PRESTIGE PERFORMANCE FROM FRAGRANCES TO SKINCARE
Australia is following overseas trends when it comes to the surging popularity of prestige cosmetics, says Little. “The sector is growing faster each year and has overtaken mass to account for 50 per cent of the market. The Estée Lauder Companies’ stable continues to grow. La Mer has performed very well with the huge growth in luxury skincare. Prestige fragrances are another hotspot, not only Tom Ford and Jo Malone but also more recent acquisitions such as Le Labo and By Kilian”. Clinique is also moving forward strongly, says Little. “We have just launched Clinique iD, a customised hydration system based on the best-selling Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. Customers can select from three different Dramatically Different bases - jelly, lotion or oil-control gel - and combine the chosen formula with one of five active ingredient cartridge concentrates. In total, there are about 15 possible blends to suit different skincare concerns. It’s a game-changer”.
Raising the bar on sustainability has become a major goal for beauty and personal care companies. Estée Lauder publishes an annual report called The Beauty of Responsibility and achieved a number 5 ranking for the beauty and personal care industry in Barron’s second annual sustainability report released in February this year. Lauder-owned Aveda, for example, became the first beauty company in the world to receive a Cradle to Cradle (C2C) sustainability endorsement and has achieved a list of sustainability firsts dating back 30 years. The Estée Lauder Companies are committed to building a more sustainable world for our employees, consumers and communities and ethical sourcing is at the forefront of our policies, says Little. “We have a long history of corporate citizenship and publish our worldwide guidelines on our global website. But we have really ramped up our activities and strategies in recent years and are industry leaders”. Mrs Evelyn Lauder, the late wife of Chairman Emeritus, Leonard Lauder, founded The Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF) in 1992, a non-profit organisation that funds breast cancer research and awareness worldwide. To date, the BCRF has raised US$285 million for translational research and awareness. “In Australia, The Estée Lauder Companies are proud to be a platinum partner of the National Breast Cancer Foundation. We also sell National Breast Cancer Foundation Pink Ribbon merchandise at our retail counters throughout October and over 110
million Pink Ribbons have been distributed globally. We strongly support the Look Good Feel Better organisation as major corporate sponsors and I am on the board of directors. The Aveda Walk for Water campaign has also been a major success in giving back”.
INTERVIEW
The reformulated Clinique Moisture Surge - 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator - has been a great success over the past year. The core Estée Lauder brand delivered net sales growth in every region and in most channels in the multinational’s recent global Q2 performance. “In Australia, the increases have come from existing product franchises such as Double Wear Foundation and Advanced Night Repair”, adds Little. “Our overall online business is performing well and the entry of M.A.C into Mecca has produced a solid uplift”.
GLOBALLY-RATED EMPLOYER/ REACHING FOR REGULATORY CONVERGENCE
With over 46,000 employees worldwide, the Estée Lauder Companies are just as committed to looking after their own. The multinational has been ranked on such performance-based lists as - the Best Employers for Diversity 2019, the World’s Best Employers 2018, the Best Employers for New Grads 2018 and Best Employers for Women 2018. For the second year in a row, the Estée Lauder Companies were rated on Indeed’s Top-Rated Workplaces: The 50 Best list at number 16 - up 20 places from 2017. Estée Lauder has introduced a wide variety of employee benefits, support options, learning opportunities and family-related programs to become one of the beauty industry’s best places to work, says Little. “We offer great flexibility options to employees. One of our most successful programs is reverse mentoring. Each generation can learn new things from each other. I have a Millennial mentor who has really brought me up to speed on all things digital, for example. The process is also valuable for getting past clichés. Many Millennials are more conservative and focused than older generations think. We also encourage employees to volunteer, achieve work/life balance and offer free skin checks”. As the Vice Chair of Accord Australasia, Little is also deeply involved in wider industry and regulatory issues. “One of my major projects is to ally Australia with Global Regulatory Convergence. One of the biggest hurdles in our industry is bureaucracy and regulation. Companies cannot offer many products which are widely available in the US and Europe because of local regulations. New Zealand accepts global standards on products and it’s time Australia followed suit”.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |19
Buyers Lists
Celebrating esprit Magazine Australia’s Super 60th we ask some of Australia’s leading beauty buyers for their Top 10 Ones to Watch!
M YER SUE PRICE – MYER GROUP GENERAL MANAGER BEAUTY AND LINGERIE
Inglot – Inglot is our newest colour brand and offers high quality makeup artistry cosmetics. This season customers have the opportunity to build their own custom palettes using the unique Freedom System or look like J Lo with a new limited edition collaboration. Iconic London – Iconic London continues from strength to strength. The brand is fun, rebellious and offers high quality, on-trend makeup at affordable prices. Right now it is all about the glow, particularly their innovative Illuminator and Prep-Set-Glow – the must-have products right now that everyone is raving about. Deciem – Also known as ‘The Abnormal Beauty Company’ Deciem is an exciting umbrella of great beauty brands known for innovative and functional skincare. The cosmetic skincare company is behind the cult brand The Ordinary. Lancer – New to Myer, Lancer is renowned for making the best anti-ageing skincare products available. Celebrity Dermatologist 20| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Dr Harold Lancer is the man behind the legendary ‘Lancer Glow’. The three-step Lancer Method of Polish, Cleanse and Nourish is my absolute favourite. Pixi by Petra – New to Myer, Pixi by Petra is an on-trend brand with a loyal worldwide following. Its affordable skincare and cosmetics are quick to use, versatile and contain nourishing ingredients that create a naturally radiant “just had a good night’s sleep” look. Löwengrip – Another new brand to Myer is Löwengrip. It’s currently the fastest growing skincare brand in Northern Europe with a range of face, body, and hair products focusing on gentle yet effective solutions for any beauty problem. Their products use only first-class ingredients and mild scents, which are fantastic for those with sensitive skin. Aesop – Always one to watch Aesop’s products combine the most beautiful aromatic formulations of the highest quality. Chanel – The world’s most iconic fragrance brand continues to dominate Beauty. Chanel’s latest Lip range ‘Rouge Coco Flash’ offers 24 shades of intense gloss, and is the season’s ‘must have’ lipstick.
Creed – For hundreds of years, the House of Creed has been one of the best kept secrets in the perfume world. A discreet family-owned business, founded in 1760 by James Henry Creed, the perfume house is dedicated to the creation of highly original fragrances of extravagant quality. Grandiflora – The brand of wellacclaimed Sydney florist Saskia Havekes – has created a range of the most beautiful fragrances which offer pure botanical scents such as boronia and Madagascan jasmine.
David Jones “With hundreds of brands in our Beauty Hall, we couldn’t pick our favourites, but here are some of the products we can’t live without!” RACHEL DUFFY-PACKER – DAVID JONES GM OF BEAUTY
Ultraceuticals – A must-have for everyone as it not only nourishes but protects skin from the kind of sun damage that prematurely ages you. I reach for the Ultraceuticals SPF 50 Daily Moisturiser each morning before I leave the house. Sisley and Oribe – My hair essentials for at home and on-the-go are the Sisley Hair Rituel Revitalizing Fortifying Serum
Tania Baldassari
Kate Healy
which keeps my hair soft and strong, and the Oribe Gold Lust Dry Texturising Spray which is like a stylist in a can. La Prairie’s White Caviar Crème Extraordinare and La Mer’s The Concentrate – When I want to treat myself with luxe skincare, I have two go-to products that definitely feel like they do wonders for my skin - La Prairie’s White Caviar Crème Extraordinare and La Mer’s The Concentrate – ultimate members of my beauty bag. Chanel Allure – My signature scent is Chanel Allure – a classic! TANIA BALDASSARI – BUYER
The Giorgio Armani Privé fragrances – These are amongst my favourites: distinctive and unique, sensual and inspiring and truly the crème de la crème of fragrance – Myrrhe Impériale is my favourite in the range – opulent and completely addictive! You’ll get compliments every time you wear it. KATE HEALY – BUYER
Dior’s Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara – My one-and-only and has been for years. The curved brush lifts lashes from the base, the formula is creamy, coats every lash without clumping, and lasts the distance (no smudges). I’ve been known to gift this to girlfriends – it’s that good. YSL Rouge Pur Couture The Slim – I am obsessed with YSL’s newest launch. A gorgeous design with fantastic shade range, it feels great to wear. Super chic for your YSL handbag. M.A.C’s Matte Lipstick in Velvet Teddy – This is an icon for a reason – it’s a gorgeous nude.
Emma Le Cornu
Kate Stansberry
Tom Ford’s Café Rose candle – For an opulent gift, you can’t go past this one – you’d buy it just as much for the look of the vessel as you would the divine fragrance. The Beauty Chef Glow Inner Beauty Powder & WelleCo’s The Super Elixir Greens – Because beauty begins on the inside. KATE STANSBERRY – BUYER
Estée Lauder’s Double Wear – Perfect for busy work days when you need long lasting makeup with good coverage. Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk – Sits on my skin beautifully and gives a luminous glow that looks like my skin, but better. KORA Organics Noni Glow – This range brings luxury to organics. The Radiant Treatment Eye Oil does exactly what it says, plus the rose quartz roller makes application soothing and cooling. For travel, I can’t go past the Body Balm (which comes as a solid stick) so there is no risk of leaks or spills on the go.
Priceline SUSIE BEARZI – PRICELINE BUYING MANAGER BEAUTY
Makeup Revolution – A global leader in fast beauty, this is one of the quickest brands to market with new beauty trends. It’s also one of the fastest growing beauty brands in the world and will be available exclusively at Priceline! A brand that is truly first with trends and first to the masses.
EMMA LE CORNU – BUYER
Glasshouse’s Kyoto and Lumira’s Cuban Tobacco – Kyoto is a dreamy blend of Camellia, Lotus and Amber for my space – being triple scented makes this a lasting experience. I have also recently fallen in love with Lumira’s Cuban Tobacco - my #1 as an uplifting/invigorating scent.
Models Prefer – High quality and affordable products across all the wanted beauty categories. This includes cosmetics, hair electricals, hair accessories and cosmetics bags. There is always something new to try and its stocked exclusively at Priceline.
RETAIL BEAUTY BUYERS
Rachel DuffyPacker
Clear Skincare – An Australianmade range of affordable skincare, created by Dr Philippa McCaffery and carefully researched to deliver exceptional results. A specialist in her field, Dr McCaffery saw a gap in the market for acne and antiageing treatments for her patients. This led to developing a range of products that deliver natural looking results that last.
Bondi Sands – This AustralianMade Tanning sensation is the #1 self-tanning brand in Australia, the UK and New Zealand. Bondi Sands continues to lead innovation in an exciting way, bringing the latest formulas and formats into tanning and new product development. Priceline has just launched the exclusive Bondi Sands Body range, with four new products and will continue to have many more innovative and exclusive launches in 2019. Zoella – A fashion & lifestyle range from digital megastar, Zoe Sugg. This is a gorgeous bath & body range for the ultimate pamper experience. This brand launches into Priceline in April 2019. Red Earth – A brand born in Australia and reinvented with a fun range of uncomplicated everyday products. This brand will be launching into Priceline in April 2019.
Aus Medic Co – A luxurious six-stage regime of advanced skincare solutions that combine scientific research with naturally derived ingredients, to assist in reducing visible signs of ageing. Featuring patented peptide technology to target below the skin and assist the production of collagen, this unique formulation is designed to improve skin elasticity for a firmer, more youthful complexion. Exclusive to Priceline in Australia and globally first to market. kōtia – An amazing new skincare brand discovered through farming deer milk and transformed into highly efficacious products. The result is a range naturally rich in retinol, folic acid, anti-oxidants and nutrients and anti-inflammatory agents in the form of vitamin D3. Exclusive to Priceline in Australia, launching April 2019.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |21
RETAIL BEAUTY BUYERS
NGS (Non Gender Specific) – A multipurpose serum that helps combat wrinkles, skin fatigue and discolouration while improving elasticity, brightness and cellular rejuvenation as well as helping reduce pore size. Cruelty free and vegan, it crosses the gender divide and is suitable for all people. Exclusive to Priceline, launching in April 2019.
Kristin Ess – Kristin Ess is a celebrity hairstylist, social influencer & co-founder of ‘thebeautydepartment.com’. Her range is salon-quality haircare & styling at affordable prices ranged exclusively with Priceline. While being based in California, she has a large Australian following through Instagram and identifies with our customers. Her most popular range is The One Signature shampoos, conditioners & masks which has strengthening & damagepreventing ingredients.
Big W THE BIG W BUYERS
Sukin – It’s what Sukin leaves out that makes them special. No harsh chemicals, no hidden surprises, and no compromise on results. Just ingredients from nature that are good for you, your wallet, and the environment too. Australian, natural skincare with an option for all your skincare needs, my favourite is the Sensitive Gel Cleanser at just $10.95. Barry M – Barry M Cosmetics has been a cult British brand since 1982, famous for its colourful, quality and on-trend products at affordable prices. Barry M was the first to launch Black Lip and Nail Paint and today sells three bottles of Nail Paint every 10 seconds. It’s 100% cruelty free and most of the range is vegan too. My current obsession is the eye-popping Glitter Pigments and Liquid Glitter Sparkle Drops. Nude By Nature – Celebrating its 10year anniversary, Nude by Nature continues to pioneer in the beauty industry with an award-winning range of 100% naturally derived, cruelty-free make-up. The iconic Natural Mineral Cover Foundation is the go-to makeup essential for millions of Australians. What’s best is they’ve just launched a limited-edition version with luxe rose gold packaging – absolutely stunning! 22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Louise Maddalena – Senior Category Manager Health, Beauty & Baby
Merelda Pace – Category Manager Cosmetics & Skincare
Brayden White – Category manager Personal Care
Eco Tools – EcoTools pioneered sustainable, plant-based beauty using recycled materials, renewable bamboo and responsible packaging well before it was the hottest trend and consumer must-have. What’s impressive is that they did it without any compromise on performance. EcoTools brushes have the most beautifully soft bristles, and at a value for money price point, they are an achievable beauty buy for all Australian women which I love. Burt’s Bees – As a leader in the natural skincare category, Burt’s Bees creates a ‘buzz in beauty’ with its range of bee derived and inspired products. With classics like the iconic beeswax lip balm, to fan favourites like the lemon butter cuticle cream and colourful lip shimmers – this conviction-led, natural care brand is responsibly sourced and sustainably made, with no animal testing. Love Beauty And Planet range – Started by a group of like-minded people, the single goal for this brand was to: “Whatever we do must be good for beauty and give a little love to the planet”. Bottles that are made from 100% recycled plastic, conditioners with ‘fast-rinse’ technology to help save water, and all infused with organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. An inspiring brand with so much to offer, Love Beauty Love Planet is definitely a brand to watch. Nivea Shower Clay Gel – Nivea continues to deliver innovation with its new Shower Clay Fresh range. This indulgent range of body washes contains natural kaolin clay to draw out impurities and pollutants from the pores whilst keeping skin velvety-soft and smooth. pH skinbalanced and three luxurious fragrances, these are sure to indulge our customers’ skin and senses.
Madeline Friedrich – Category Assistant Cosmetics & Skincare
Michael Grosvenor – Category Assistant Personal Care
Colgate Total Toothpaste – Exciting is not a term often used when it comes to toothpaste, however, after 10-years of development, the new Colgate Total offers all the benefits of the original formula plus additional benefits, including; seeking and fighting bacteria for enamel protection and instant neutralisation of bacterial odours associated with bad breath. Same great taste with improved benefits from the leaders in Oral Care. Stylista by L’Oréal Paris – Stylista from L’Oréal Paris offers six new hair styling products and is the first styling range to be co-created with top beauty influencers. Making the coolest hairstyles easy – from beach waves, voluminous hair, boho braids, full-bodied bun, to the glam blow dry or short pixie styles, - complementary online tutorials with the beauty influencers are also available to help you express yourself with a new look. Amazing fragrances and efficacy you’d expect from L’Oréal Paris. #STYLEITYOURWAY Schwarzkopf Extra Care Hair Serum in Mask – Schwarzkopf ’s new Serum in Mask offers an innovative dual formula treatment combining the potency of a serum with the benefits of a keratin hair mask. Specifically designed to improve strength and vitality with instant shine and suppleness, this is a unique product that is contained in dual chambers and only combines when squeezed out. There are two variants – Moisturising Serum which contains Marine Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid that deeply moisturises for strength and vitality and Repairing Serum which contains tri-amino acids, reduces hair breakage and delivers shine and suppleness. Pampering and treating the hair.
CAROLINE DIAMANTIS – PHARMACIST AND BUYER AT BALMAIN COMMUNITY PHARMACY
“At our Community Pharmacy, our focus is Always on Total Wellness. Beauty must look good and feel good and BE good for you both inside and out. Australia has been surveyed to be the third largest consumer in the world for vegan products, and so some of my products are inspired by this upcoming trend. Biokap Vegan Hair Colour – Regular hair colour becomes part of the monthly routine for women of a certain age needing to cover the greys. I’m so excited to be stocking a brand new vegan range of hair dyes. Made in Italy, Biokap is nourishing, colouring and repairing with bio argan oil and Tricorepair complex. It’s free from PDD (Para-Phenylenediamine), making it suitable for vegans. Ammonia free, nickel tested, and dermatologically tested, giving 100% grey coverage. And the best news in our busy world is only a ten-minute developing time – this one is going to be big. Biokap Vegan Root Touch-up – Biokap complements its colour range with an amazing in-between touch-up spray to cover the grey re-growth. Also vegan, with Tricorepair and argan oil, it gives an instant natural and uniform colour touch-up. It dries in under a minute, will not stain and washes out after one shampoo. There are six colours in the range designed to match any hair colour. Natio – Well known as a health and beauty brand with affordable products made from luxury ingredients, Natio products never disappoint. I’m super excited to be using their new shampoo and conditioner ranges. This unique haircare range is made in Australia and combines thrilling Australian bush scents from our native plants with nourishing plant extracts to deliver high tech formulas for beautiful healthy hair. With nine products, they’ve got everyone covered including our gorgeous Fur Babies – luxurious Pet shampoo which won’t irritate animal’s skin.
Clarins – My favourite go-to for all makeup and skincare – being plantbased is kind to us and kind to the planet. Clarins’ new mascara, Wonder Perfect Mascara 4D is just that – perfect! Made with Rose Wax it’s gentle on those sensitive lashes while delivering on natural. It increases both Volume and Length of bare lashes just after four weeks. Who knew we could be growing our lashes just by applying our daily mascara?! Moo Goo – A household name, this Australian Company prides itself on providing Natural Solutions for ALL skin concerns. Clicking to their website I am always amazed how down-to-earth their policy is – they name all the bad ingredients they don’t include, as well as the good stuff they do. And most importantly, they do not (ever) test on animals. Look out for their Mother-to-be Starter Kit with their special Baby Scalp Cream, Soothing MSM Moisturiser (an organic skin soothing compound), a Natural Mini-Moo Bubbly Wash, and a Nappy Balm Barrier cream to prevent irritated baby nappy skin. Formula 10.0.6 – With so many masks on the market, I can’t seem to move past my favourite range for troubled or acne skin products - Formula 10.0.6. With a comprehensive range of cleansers, washes and acne creams, this range was created by a chemist in 1933 and excels at perfecting troubled young skin. My go-to in this range (for all ages) is the draw-it-allout skin-detoxing peel mask with Charcoal and Plum. La Roche-Posay – In my book, sunscreen is a mandatory daily skin essential so it must be easy to wear and blend under makeup with no fuss. My go-to is made by a leading French Dermatological Company - La Roche-Posay and is called Anthelios XL 50+ … a mouthful to say, I can guarantee you’ll be wrapped with this fragrance free, paraben free, ultra-light very high protection sunscreen 50+ made with thermal spring water. Dexeryl – Skin in Australia suffers more than other countries due to our extreme elements and outdoor lifestyle. Dexeryl is a new emollient, dry-skin cream which provides skin protection for the treatment of signs and symptoms of skin dryness (xerosis) especially in various skin diseases such as dermatitis. Backed by the heritage
RETAIL BEAUTY BUYERS
Balmain Community Pharmacy
and R&D of parent company Pierre Fabre (Avène and Klorane). I personally apply daily, especially in the winter months when my skin is super dry. You don’t need to have dermatitis to enjoy the emollient benefits of this rich and luxurious cream.
Wot-Not – Australian made, certified organic and vegan (unless noted), biodegradable, gluten free and not tested on animals – for pharmacists, this ticks every box in keeping our bodies well and healthy inside and out. Self-tanners often contain harmful ingredients including dyes, perfumes, alcohols, parabens, etc which cause reactions and hormonal disruptions. WOTNOT organic self-tan contains Kakadu Plum and Camellia Oil providing antioxidants and nutrients assisting colour development, while organic aloe moisturises and sooths. I love the natural aspect of what is normally a traumatic experience for our skin. Bio-Revive – Standing on your feet all day or participating in an active lifestyle can often lead to hard and sometimes painful skin on the bottom of our feet. Milky Foot Intense Exfoliating Foot Pad distributed by BioRevive is a miracle solution which is as easy as wearing the brand’s specially impregnated contoured fitted socks for up to 60 minutes. The low irritant formula with almond based mandelic acid works gently to start removing the hardened skin over the next three to seven days leaving feet feeling smooth and milky-soft. It’s just heavenly and so easy.
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Be in your best skin with DermAbsolu “At Eau Thermale Avène, specialist care brand for sensitive skin, we believe in helping women be their best selves, rather than trying to transform them. It is not about refusing to age, rather to make the most of it, embracing the signs of ageing. In our continuous effort to expand our understanding of skin ageing, Avène created, DermAbsolu”. Avène studied the needs of women in their 50s. Two out of 3 women, over 50 years of age, claim to be enjoying life more than ever*. She is active, accomplished and liberated, and is not thinking about the signs of ageing but more to the future…the signs of living. This is an ‘expert’ consumer who shops actively in Pharmacy, and values advice from the Pharmacist and/or the Pharmacy Team.
PHARMACY TRAINING Janis McNicholas – Avène Training Manager Avène is committed to training its Pharmacy partners in this innovative range. Key is to help them identify the needs and wants of (new and or existing Dermocosmetic) customers over 50, through different customer profiles and assist them in exploring and recommending a complete Avène care ritual for their needs, to gain loyalty and win trust.
Inspire Your Customers Detail the efficacy, sensory appeal and modernity of Avène DermAbsolu to provide a customised solution to women living their mature years, to create a youthful complexion. Backed by Pharmaceutical expertise, the range is designed to nourish, restore firmness and fight sagging.
Your Expert Advice As experts in the field of skin ageing, our 24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
researchers at Pierre Fabre Laboratories discovered a close correlation between cellular senescence and inflamm-ageing. This connection results in accelerated skin ageing and, consequently, a loss of firmness, sagging skin and increased skin dryness. We developed an original trio of patented active ingredients with complementary and synergistic antiageing properties: SYTENOL™*– also known by its chemical name Bakuchiol, is extracted from the leaves of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia) used in Ayurvedic & Chinese medicine for its antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Bakuchiol is also used in cosmetics for its antiageing properties and is the first natural alternative to retinol. Bakuchiol is photostable, meaning that it can be used during the day and is well tolerated on sensitive skin; VANILLA POLYPHENOLS – extracted from Tahitian Vanilla, known as Hyaluronic acid protectors; and GLYCOLEOL – an essential skin lipid precursor for intense nourishment, boosted with naturally soothing and anti-irritating Avène Thermal Spring Water.
Recommend Avène DermAbsolu range comprises four products. Each sophisticated formula has good tolerance and high concentrations of active ingredients, as well as textures offering a diverse range of sensory experiences.
The Recontouring Serum “serumin-oil” skincare combines the comfort of an oil with a light, highly concentrated, non-greasy and quick absorbing texture, with an illuminating effect thanks to pearlescent agents. To be applied in the morning or evening, its delicate fragrance makes it an absolute pleasure to use. Skin is redensified, toned and luminous. Facial contours are visibly resculpted. The Defining Day Cream redensifies and smooths the skin, while the Comforting Night Balm, with its luxurious cocoon texture, intensely nourishes the skin to help it regenerate through the night. The Youth Eye Cream, has a unique metallic massage applicator with an instant cooling refreshing effect, reduces puffiness, dark circles and smooths and lifts the eye contour. Avène DermAbsolu is delicately fragranced with notes of Jasmine, Violet and Rose, enhanced by the intensity of musk and cashmere wood (hypoallergenic). Each formula is preserved in hightech packaging (airless jar, self-filling auto dropper, tube with massage tip, etc.), designed with the end consumer in mind, ultimately modern and actives carefully selected, that evoke care, positivity and trust. Complement DermAbsolu with Avène Essential Care Cleanser, Avène Thermal Spring Water, and complete the ritual with Avène Sun Care. *Elastic Generation study: The Female Edit, Dec 2017, UK
EXPERIENCE AGELESS SKIN
AVENE
soothing by nature
NOURISH, RESTORE FIRMNESS AND FIGHT SAGGING PROVEN EFFICACY
95% skin is firmed after 1 month* 84% skin is visibly lifted after 1 month** www.avene.com.au
*User test on 81 women, Comforting Night Balm applied in the evening for 1 month. % of satisfaction **User test on 87 women, Recontouring Serum applied once daily for 1 month. % of satisfaction
The Jojoba Company Celebrates
10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY
with Double Digit YOY Growth by Elisabeth King
Natural and organic beauty is one of the fastest-growing sectors in the global marketplace. But how consumers evaluate natural claims has undergone a dramatic change. More and more they are looking for products that are deeply aligned with their lifestyles and beliefs. Few other hero ingredients meet the increasing worldwide demand for vegan skincare, clean beauty and crueltyfree and sustainability claims than jojoba. 26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Indigenous to the desert regions of the US and Mexico, jojoba first came to be widely used in cosmetics for a reason even more relevant today - it helped to save sperm whales from extinction. In the early 1970s, researchers discovered that jojoba was the perfect substitute for whale oil because it is similar in composition to human skin. More recently, the US Department of Agriculture identified jojoba as key to fighting the so-called beepocalypse - the reduction of bee populations worldwide through loss of habitat and climate change. Jojoba does not produce nectar but it does produce copious quantities of protein-rich pollen which creates an excellent food supply for bee colonies.
Incredible Stability/Similar to Human Skin
In today’s export-driven global beauty industry, jojoba possesses yet another trump card. Because of its unique chemical structure and antioxidant content, jojoba has an unmatched oxidative stability. Products containing jojoba have a long shelf life, resistance to free radicals and stay efficacious, says Vicki Engsall, Co-Founder and Product Development Manager of The Jojoba Company. People use the term jojoba oil, but it’s technically not an oil at all, but a mixture of liquid wax esters similar to human sebum, which is why it has such a staggering amount of benefits, says Engsall. “We were the first company in the world to launch a skincare range entirely based on jojoba and have enjoyed double-digit growth year-on-year, rising to 40 per cent over the past year”. Commercial quantities of jojoba are grown in the US, Israel and Argentina, but The Jojoba Company dominates the beauty and personal care category in Australia. “As
esprit Magazine promotion
consumers seek out more ethical sourcing, transparency in the supply chain and sustainability, locally-produced hero ingredients that don’t have to be flown half way around the world have become critical to the path-to-purchase”, adds Engsall. “We are Australian-owned and over 40 per cent of Australian women prefer to buy Australian-made beauty products”.
Pioneering Development
Engsall founded The Jojoba Company with her father, Ian Turner, in 2008. “Just because jojoba is a desert plant doesn’t mean it is easy to grow in Australia and farmers had tried to grow it commercially before. Dad did a lot of experimental planting and the CSIRO wanted Aussie farmers to pioneer a new strain of jojoba they had developed called Wadi Wadi, named after a NSW Aboriginal people. He had a spare lot and planted a few cuttings, but it was eight years before the first crop yield”. There was a lot of learning involved because jojoba is a sex-differentiated plant, says Engsall. “You need one male plant to pollinate 17 female plants and the jojoba is produced only by the female plant. I was a teacher and had just had a baby and the timing was right to take on a major project. We did a lot of market research and discovered there was very limited knowledge about the benefits of jojoba. Some people thought it was good for the hair, others confused it with aloe vera and only five per cent were aware of its skincare benefits”. Now 10 years on, jojoba has become a mainstream ingredient that consumers look for in their skincare products. Engsall had a vision and strong commitment and thoroughly researched jojoba’s huge number of uses. “Jojoba is a perfect carrier because it is easily absorbed and penetrates down to skin matrix level, which is why it is invaluable in hair, skincare and pharmaceutical products. We have also supplied larger quantities to ingredient suppliers, but I strongly believed that jojoba should move from being a back story to the main act. The facial oil sector was booming and I felt that a skincare range based on jojoba was a natural progression because it suits more skin types because it is non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic. Packed with vitamins, essential oils and antioxidants, the regular use of jojoba fast-tracks clear, healthy skin”.
Bestsellers/Sustainability and Purity/Future Growth
The original skincare range from The Jojoba Company - 32 SKUs - launched at Beauty Expo 2008 because we had professional skincare salons in mind, says Engsall. “A lot of independent salons were interested because jojoba can be added to a wide range of facials or used alone. But word spread and we had a sales team from day one and quickly extended distribution to pharmacies and health food stores a year later. We are now stocked in Priceline, Go Vita, Healthy Life, Blooms, Pharmacy 4 Less, Wholehealth Pharmacy and Healthfoods, Ramsay Pharmacy and selected independents”. Biochemistry and technology in the natural beauty sector has advanced enormously in recent years, says Engsall. “Our number one bestseller is our pure Australian jojoba and we also have an organic version. Our next bestseller is Ultimate Jojoba Youth Potion which is like a multivitamin treatment for the skin. We believe that the jojoba plants grown at our farm in Yenda, regional Australia deliver the most nutrient-rich jojoba. We have more than tripled our planting from 60 to 200 acres and are planting 41,000 new plants in our nursery to keep up with demand and ensure future growth”.
China-Facing/Revolutionising Skincare
Chinese consumers love jojoba because it not only produces results, they also value the transparency and purity of our products using jojoba that has been filtered 14 times, says Engsall. “Because it is a desert plant, jojoba has an extensive root system that can go down 20 metres. This makes the plants carbon-neutral, which is very eco-friendly. Little water is required and because it doesn’t attract pests or diseases no chemical spraying is required. The jojoba seed looks like a large coffee bean and we use a cold-pressed extraction method. Processed jojoba is clear and transparent, but pure versions like ours are a bright, golden colour so that consumers can tell at a glance they are getting 100% natural jojoba”. It is amazing to see the impact jojoba is having on the beauty industry and the new uses being discovered, says Engsall. “Jojoba has come of age and will continue to revolutionise skincare development. We have new skincare packaging debuting later this year. In addition to educating more Australian consumers about the benefits of jojoba, we have distributors in the UK and New Zealand and are working with a leading distributor on our Chinese strategy”.
VICKI ENGSALL
JOJOBA – THE ULTIMATE MULTI-TASKER •C alming and balancing, jojoba helps soothe skin conditions and is suitable for all skin types. Easily absorbed and deeply penetrating because of its similarity to human skin, jojoba helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation, age spots and sun damage and evens skin tone. It is also a perfect moisturising ingredient in haircare, massage and bath oils, face and body moisturisers •A pplying jojoba before shaving guards against razor burn and soothes the skin •J ojoba is also perfect for removing all types of makeup because it doesn’t clog pores or cause allergic reactions •B ecause it is wax-based, jojoba does not evaporate and has incredible staying power as a lip gloss or balm •J ojoba is able to carry the active natural ingredients within each of our products deep into the skin which is why jojoba is at the heart of our entire skincare range
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |27
TALKING POINT
Putting Retailers First How Brands Help To Drive Brand Awareness, Growth and Sales In Store by Elisabeth King
In today’s highly competitive beauty market, it’s all about growth and cut-through. The old one-size-fits-all strategies across retailers are long gone. esprit talks to leading brands in mass and prestige about the inventive and tried-andtrue initiatives they have in place to boost sellthrough and target new consumers.
CATEGORY ANALYSIS, STAFF TRAINING, TAGGED ADVERTISING
One of the many ways Coty helps our retailers to sell more product is through conducting thorough category analysis, says Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ. “We track
Monique Smith MARKETING DIRECTOR, COTY CONSUMER BEAUTY ANZ
which brands, segments and formats are performing in market, and how the retailers can optimise their space allocation in-store in order to capture the full sales potential of these performance trends. We look at what is delivering the strongest return on space and provide recommendations on how the space can deliver more. Then we use historical data trends to estimate the uplift in sales our partners are likely to expect from our recommendations”. As a new company in a highly professional and branded environment, we have to earn the right to work with leading retail groups and gain the trust of consumers, says Neale
Neale Joseph CEO, PURE BEAUTY AUSTRALIA
28| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Joseph, CEO, Pure Beauty Australia, whose portfolio includes Blessed by Nature and handsome, the men’s grooming brand. “We prepare ahead of time, which is hard given the short lead times that retailers ask suppliers to work within, but our aim is to be very easy to do business with. The training of staff is key. With high staff turnover in store, this is an ongoing focus for us as we believe that if a beauty advisor knows and uses the product they will recommend and sell it to their customers.” We continue to invest in sampling programs with our partners and customers, adds Joseph. “We believe customers need every chance to trial and then buy. This is very helpful in driving sell-through and results may not be immediate, but the strategy is effective over time. Promotion is also crucial. Retailers are constantly driving to provide value to existing clients and new ones. For new brands, inclusion in these programs provides significant sales uplift and growth which supports sell-through”. From Skin Doctors’ standpoint, we run a very account-driven ATL marketing campaign where we support the brand when on discount at retailers, says Tracy Murdoch, Senior Brand Manager,
Tracy Murdoch SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, PHARMACARE
PharmaCare. “This support ranges from designed catalogue spots that highlight the key benefits of our products through tagged TV advertising during in-store promotions on the brand and tagged advertising in leading print media such as News Corp’s Body & Soul that also alerts consumers to discounts”. We also advertise new product launches through our social media pages, says Murdoch. “To help target consumers better, we use our partners’ reward programs, such as Priceline’s Sister Club, to target new, lapsed and existing users, depending on the strategy. Strong social media support with influencers - both earned and bought - is another focus. Point of sale is available for our brands and can be used within relevant retailers. We also have a very strong online sales presence and a number of new initiatives have debuted to boost engagement with the brand’s followers”. PRICE PROMOTIONS, SKIN DIAGNOSIS, CONSTANT DRAMMING, CUSTOMER-FACING CONTENT
At Dr. LeWinn’s, our brand and sales teams work extremely closely with our retail partners, building robust and consistent plans for new product launches, as well as our core base business, to ensure strong product sell-through, says Lucy Robinson, Senior Brand Manager, Dr. LeWinn’s Skincare. “Price
Lucy Robinson SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, DR. LEWINN’S SKINCARE
promotions will continue to be an ongoing factor, with consumers consistently looking for the hottest deals and added value. However, we must continue to work with retailers to effectively communicate our brand purpose and point of difference to consumers, whether that be in-store, at point-of-purchase, in catalogues, through brand and/or retailer advertising, editorial coverage and social media channels”. Combining all activity as part of a 360 marketing campaign enables us to deliver a consistent brand message across all touchpoints, which achieves significant uplift during key launch periods and throughout the year, says Robinson. “An example of a key retailer vehicle which works exceptionally well for Dr. LeWinn’s is the What’s On in the Warehouse TV segment from Chemist Warehouse. The infomercial delivers product detail and education on mainstream TV channels. Combined with deep price promotions, off-location store
podiums, POS at shelf and hero catalogue focus, it produces a significant uplift in sales throughout its 2-week timeframe”. Swiss cosmetic brand Mavala strives to support retail partners with a number of sales-driving initiatives, says Remi Bouchenez, Managing Director of Cosmier. “Last year saw the launch
Remi Bouchenez MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COSMIER
of our Swiss Skin Solutions range, a collection of 17 compatible products. Pharmacies nationwide were offered a “skincare diagnosis” sales package. A Mavala skincare specialist would be available in-store to offer customers a skincare diagnosis and provide personalised skincare regimens, samples and product information. Each skincare diagnosis event was advertised in-store and on social media to increase foot traffic”. Mavala’s core strength is the nail category and the brand provides continuous support through in-store manicures, says Bouchenez. “Social media advertising is geographically targeted before such events to pique interest and drive customers into store. The Mavala manicures are complimentary for a minimum purchase amount and are conducted by a sales representative and a professional manicurist. They also have a knock-on effect from a training perspective to the staff in individual stores”. These days with the wide variety of products and brands available, customers want to try before they commit to a purchase, says Hayley Fitzsimons, Retail Marketing Manager, Clinique.
Hayley Fitzsimons RETAIL MARKETING MANAGER, CLINIQUE
“By implementing a custom-fit, always-on dramming/sampling campaign, Clinique highlights the fact that we have confidence in the effectiveness of our products. The approach also allows customers the opportunity to trial products to experience the benefits and results for themselves, which ultimately drives them back in store to purchase. Utilising our highly trained Clinique consultants, we custom-fit our sampling to a consumer’s specific skincare concerns and makeup needs”. Through understanding our core
customer and what they value, Jurlique provides engaging content across product, newness, benefits, CSR initiatives and brand story, says Ann Donohue, General Manager ANZ, Jurlique International. “We are in the best
Ann Donohue GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL
position to attract and drive traffic and conversion by providing a desirable brand that offers a strong, local and natural brand heritage. Customer-facing content across various media outlets, including social, helps to attract local and international customers to seek out the brand, helping drive sales in-store”. TARGET GROUPS, BOGOFS, CUSTOMISED CAMPAIGNS, CONSUMER REWARDS
In an industry where consumers are bombarded with multiple purchasing opportunities, there cannot be a blanket approach to retail, says Meg Bolli, Retail Marketing Manager for Dermalogica. “At Dermalogica we
Meg Bolli RETAIL MARKETING MANAGER FOR DERMALOGICA
target consumer groups differently through different channels and tailor our messages accordingly. We offer each channel a unique strategy to ensure that we are making the most of that purchasing opportunity whether that be exclusivity that resonates with a particular consumer or a holistic service approach available at our flagships”. Our more mature customers prefer to shop in our department store channel, says Bolli. “They tend to purchase a new product when prompted through added value such as a gift with purchase using traditional print advertising. Our Gen Z consumers, on the other hand, activate on social media. We have had great success driving e-commerce sales via influencer marketing and tap-toshop links. What works for one retail channel completely misses the mark for another”. In a luxury twist on the BOGOF principle, Lancôme introduced its “buy 30 get 30” campaign last August (2018) and it was a huge success, says Kelly FallArmytage, Social & Communications Manager for L’Oréal Luxe. “For a ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |29
Kelly Fall-Armytage SOCIAL & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER FOR L’ORÉAL LUXE
limited time, consumers received a bonus 30ml of Advanced Genifique, our number one selling serum, valued at $100 with every 30ml purchase. The promotion was a complete sell-out, supporting the star franchise while following our icon-centric strategy. We reprised the promotion in mid-February because of the outstanding results”. When we work with our retailers, we look at the Nude by Nature customer for each retailer as this changes dependent on their shopping habits, says George Tsoukalas, Commercial Business Manager ANZ. “Gone are the days
George Tsoukalas COMMERCIAL BUSINESS MANAGER ANZ AT NUDE BY NATURE
when you could create one strategy and hoped it worked across all retailers. We don’t usually launch exclusives, but for our 10-year anniversary celebrations in March, we launched a collection of value offers to showcase iconic products. When planning for Priceline, we took into consideration that Priceline customers expect animation and events. They also look for expert advice, so an in-store eventing program was put in place to drive awareness and sales. With Chemist Warehouse, we decided to engage consumers with a competition and animated the campaign in-store, online and outdoor to maximise exposure. Early results proved these tailored strategies are successful”. At Palmer’s we pride ourselves on our strong relationships with our retail partners, says Hayley Bishop, Marketing Manager, Palmer’s Australia. “We listen to their
Hayley Bishop MARKETING MANAGER, PALMER’S AUSTRALIA
strategies and blend with our consumer communication to maximise the sales off-take of both core and new lines. We also offer exclusive lines to meet the needs of a particular customer base, whether it is based on an emerging trend or existing 30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
requirement. We also like to give rewards to consumers and have offered holiday prizes with retail partners to Hawaii, Vanuatu and Mexico which gives the stores the opportunity to display our products such as the Coconut range with tropical themes. Marketing tools such as in-store POS, neck tags on bottles, free samples, promotional rebates and displays are all vehicles we use to drive growth where consumers stop and interact with the brand”. Palmer’s also drives communication through social media, in particular Instagram and Facebook, to our thousands of followers, says Bishop. “This is complemented with making information and marketing assets available to retailers for use on their websites and e-commerce stores. Consumers are demanding more relevant information such as key ingredients, free-from claims, reviews from other consumers and clinical trial results and claims. Palmer’s products use ethicallysourced ingredients such as cocoa butter, coconut, shea and olive oil, which also helps to drive consumers in-store”. HOLISTIC MEDIA PLANS, EDUCATION, SHELF NAVIGATION, TARGETING AT MICRO-LEVEL
Head & Shoulders, Australia’s number one anti-dandruff brand, launched its first-ever premium Supreme range in April 2018, says Katim Tsui, Assistant Brand Manager, Head & Shoulders ANZ. “P&G Australia’s marketing and sales teams have worked closely with the buying and marketing teams of leading retailers. We helped them to break through consumer barriers such as - many women are embarrassed to buy Head & Shoulders and they also think that anti-dandruff shampoos won’t give them beautiful hair”. Today, Supreme is ranged in all top retailers and has reached 1.3 per cent value share of total haircare, says Tsui. “That’s about 15 per cent salience of the Head & Shoulders brand. We crafted a holistic media plan, incorporating TV, digital, social and out-of-home to drive awareness, and premium disruptive POS materials to flow through and close sales in-store”. One of the most important elements in the promotional mix to help retailers sell more products is education plus product trial aimed at the right person, says Erica Galea, Marketing Director, Chemcorp International. “The product wouldn’t have made it into store in the first place without educating a buyer or store manager. But this needs to be followed through to ensure that the person
Erica Galea MARKETING DIRECTOR, CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL
selling the product understands what makes it different and better from its competitors. This approach has been one of the success factors for Real Techniques makeup brushes. Providing Priceline BAs with Real Techniques brushes in their makeup kits, together with tips and information on how to use them by Sam and Nic, the makeup artist founders of the brand, gives them the knowledge and trust to confidently recommend them to customers. A sample is worth 1000 pictures”. A’kin assists major retailers with sellthrough using two key techniques - shelf navigation and GWP, says Matthew Chong, Customer Marketing Manager at McPherson’s. “A’kin has
Matthew Chong CUSTOMER MARKETING MANAGER AT MCPHERSON’S
invested in shelf units to improve shelf navigation and educate shoppers about which product is right for them. They have been installed in top Priceline stores and also help to improve in-store theatre. We also had a successful Chemist Warehouse mechanic, encouraging current users to trial new products through a GWP outside the scope of skincare to increase basket size and prompt repeat purchases”. We run support activities to coincide with our retail partner promotions, says Craig Schweighoffer, Managing Director, Biophysics, the owner of the Skin Physics and Rapid Loss brands. “Firstly, we target new customers
Craig Schweighoffer MANAGING DIRECTOR, BIOPHYSICS
through social advertising. We find this very effective because you can target down to micro-level. We target the area where the promotion is being run and our core customer demographics, then deliver key messages which are aligned with the promotion. We also engage current customers through our social communities and email database. Not as an email blast, but in a segmented, targeted way to
SAMPLING, NEW CATEGORIES, INCREASING BASKET SIZE, BETTER MARGINS
Product sampling is still an effective way to offer an introduction to Weleda’s world of natural and organic skincare, says Charmaine Pichler, Marketing Manager, Weleda Australia. “Unlike
Charmaine Pichler MARKETING MANAGER, WELEDA AUSTRALIA
a tester in store, product samples can be taken home as well as explored further online. The perfect mechanism to create an emotional connection between the brand and target consumers. Skin Food is our iconic must-have moisturiser and we team up with David Jones to sample it every year. Results have been very good at driving sales online and in-store”. At RAWW, we are constantly expanding the breadth and depth of our range, optimising it for increased sell-through in-store, says Elise Synott, Brand Manager. “While renewing the current
generous gifting program, which keeps our stores out of the discounting spiral and maintains margin. In addition, we have one major sell-through promotion during each half of the year. Our most successful campaign to date has been our Scratch & Win promotion, which focused on instant prizes for consumers, but we have also given away cars and money-can’t-buy experiences. We also work with celebrity figures such as mummy blogger, Sophia Cachia, and will soon be launching an exciting new range with a well-known star of the Married at First Sight TV show”. Our first duty as a supplier is to provide major retailers with better margins to work with, says Arnaud Husser, Managing Director of Cosmetiques de France, the distributor of Bioderma and Uriage. “Percentage discounts, PWPs and
Arnaud Husser MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COSMETIQUES DE FRANCE
GWPs also support sales and promotions. Exclusives are also still important to major retailers. Recently, suppliers have been offering more and more digital support such as posts on their websites and EDM content for launches”. DRIVING FOOT TRAFFIC, TAILORED APPROACH, HIGH ATL SPEND
Elise Synott BRAND MANAGER, RAWW
skincare and cosmetics collections, we are also launching relevant new categories to meet demand in the wellness movement because we are a strong lifestyle brand in the superfood-infused beauty space. Our RAWW aromatherapy range, which launched in February, has been designed with the modern consumer in mind and includes a mix of traditional pure essential oils and unique custom blends”. The objective of our retail partners is centered around increasing stock-turn and basket size, says Markeeta King, Senior Brand Manager, Designer Brands Cosmetics. “We drive this with a very
Markeeta King SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, DESIGNER BRANDS COSMETICS
Heat Doward place a lot of focus on shopper insights to identify opportunities in-store and leverage our leading and exclusive brands to drive foot traffic and trial, says Leanne Harris, Marketing Manager. “Last year, for example, we
Leanne Harris MARKETING MANAGER, HEAT DOWARD
launched a new, market-leading concept, Winter Warmers, to capture the increase in demand for products to keep customers dry, warm and healthy over the coldest months of the year. Following a successful 2018 season, the 2019 Winter Warmers campaign is designed to deliver the same great convenience to our retailers and customers and to drive a higher average basket size. To deliver these results, we have implemented a two-stage support program that includes a Customer Incentive - rewarding customers that spend $20 with the chance to win a RedBalloon
Experience from over 5000 choices - and also a Staff Incentive rewarding the stores that collect the most entries”. At MOR we choose to partner with retailers to develop a tailored approach specific to their consumer demographic, says Courtney Sims, Senior Marketing Manager. “We work closely with
Courtney Sims SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER, MOR
TALKING POINT
ensure the offer is communicated to the relevant customer. We find this gives our brands better engagement and provides the retailer with better results”.
their buying, marketing and retail teams to come up with retail execution strategies that can include exclusive product launches, GWPs, first-to-market offers, on-going staff training and in-store visual merchandising support. We also supply commissioned marketing materials and content led creative to engage consumers further”. We have made a big investment in the training of BAs in department stores, says Peter Playford, Country Manager, Puig Oceania, whose fragrance portfolio includes designer brands such as Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Prada and Jean Paul Gaultier. “Seventy per cent of consumers don’t go into stores knowing what fragrance they want to buy. Once in store, knowledgable staff have to convert interest to sales which is why they are so important to prestige fragrance sales. We also have a strong ATL strategy and rank in the top four in the market to create maximise brand awareness.” I divide people into two categories humans and consumers - says Playford. “Consumers actually look for a category but humans have to be talked to and listened to. We do a lot of tagging in advertising for David Jones and Myer, particularly on TV and we are getting good growth in department store. We also have strong promotional strategies online and through digital and social media.” Because our brands cover a wide range of demographics and retailers from department stores to pharmacies, we have also done promotions and marketing on popular websites and apps such as Tinder and Uber, adds Playford. “We also sponsored the GWS Giants Aussie Rules team and gave away over 800 samples. We are very much a brand-building company and although we have done very well with the Paco Rabanne franchise, watch this space for major promotions, events and social media activities over the next few months”. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |31
COMPANY PROFILE
10 Years and Growing Strongly
Nude by Nature Comes of Age as a Truly Global Brand by Elisabeth King
The trouble with acronyms is that they often mask trends and expertise that have been in place for a long time. The Koreans and Japanese had flourishing beauty industries for decades before the world “discovered” K-Beauty and J-Beauty. For the past year, Australia’s contribution to the global cosmetic scene has been touted as A-Beauty and Aussie brands have flooded into major retailers in Europe, Asia and North America. It’s a no-brainer, really. Australia is the 13th largest economy in the world and would rank as the fifth largest in Europe. First world technology and a green image are backed by some of the most potent native active ingredients in the world 32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
kakadu plum, lilly pilly and quandong. Few other beauty brands know this better than Nude by Nature, Australia’s number one mineral make-up brand. Launched in 2008, the company is not only Australian owned, a major point-of difference has
always been the inclusion of the Australian native ingredients now so much in demand around the world.
Humble Beginnings/Superior New Product Development
Ten years ago, we started from humble beginnings with only four products – a mineral powder foundation, a bronzer, a finishing powder and a make-up brush, says CEO Mark Thompson. “The loose powder is still a huge part of our business, but over the past decade we have developed into a more grown-up version of Nude by Nature. Our new product development featuring a full colour collection has accelerated over the past five years from our prestige eye makeup range through to the Flawless Collection
Natural Positioning and Strong Communication Attract Boots, John Lewis and QVC
International expansion has been top-ofmind since Thompson’s appointment in 2013. “I targeted major retailers in Europe about three years ago and the response was very positive. We are ranked number one in the mineral category in Australia and play against the big names. Since then the natural and organic beauty sector has exploded from a trend to a lifestyle choice and European retailers have hundreds of brands from around the world trying to grab their attention. So it was a great coup for Nude by Nature to be stocked in iconic department store chain, John Lewis and most recently Boots in March this year. Why have international retailers chosen Nude by Nature over thousands of other brands? At all stages of our development, we have stuck to our principles of using 100% natural ingredients, says Thompson. “Other brands advertise that they are natural but they are not. Our products do not contain chemical dyes, preservatives, fragrances, petrochemicals or pore-clogging talc “Consumers are very educated these days and do not like green-washing. They are also looking for natural make-up that makes no compromise on performance, which is why Nude by Nature has enjoyed great success with our eye, foundation and lip collections. They look and feel like their prestige mainstream counterparts. We are not and never will be a brand that cuts corners”.
Nude by Nature’s communications strategy has also been key to growth, says Thompson. “Everything we do hinges on the principle that make-up should be good for you. We are a no and yes company. No to all the nasties and yes to great natural ingredients. To enable the brand to launch internationally, a more luxe look was required and that was a paradigm shift for the brand. Consumers globally are attracted to make-up brands by how good they look and are then delighted to be told they are natural”. Clint Dowdell, the brand ambassador for Nude by Nature since 2010, is now based in London. With a strong track record in cutting-edge fragrance and make-up brands such as Terry de Gunzberg and Nars, no one is better placed than Dowdell to convey the wide appeal of Nude by Nature products. “We launched on the QVC shopping channel in the UK late last year”, says Thompson. “Clint appears on the segments and the results have been phenomenal. We have a full window for 12 months which is incredible for a new brand”.
The Right Retailers - Europe, China and Canada
French consumers have also embraced Nude by Nature and the brand is in 222 stores in the Nocibé chain, acquired by Douglas, Europe’s largest beauty and fragrance chain in 2013, to create a combined business of 625 stores in France. “We are also in Le Bon Marche, the most selective department store in Paris, owned by LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group”, adds Thompson. Our strategy is to be in the right retailers in Europe, so Nude by Nature is also in the top five Douglas stores and Karstadt department stores in Germany and in Magasin du Nord in Denmark, a subsidiary of Debenhams. Canada has become an important market, says Thompson. “We negotiated an exclusive deal with Shoppers Drug Mart and rolled out into over 1000 of their 1300 doors. They have very stringent targets and selected Nude by Nature because we are one of the very
CEO MARK THOMPSON
COMPANY PROFILE
and our new 100 per cent Natural Lip Collection. Green is now glamorous, and all of our products underline premiumisation in the natural beauty space”. Nude by Nature’s product development team is one of the best Thompson has ever worked with. A huge accolade considering his experience as a senior executive in skincare and haircare in Europe and Australia. Before taking on the role of COO of HiLife Health & Beauty, he was the Managing Director of TIGI UK & Europe, Managing Director of TIGI ANZ and held General Manager positions at L’Oréal Professionnel and Fujifilm.
few make-up brands available anywhere that is truly natural. Canada is a very important market because it offers a segue into the US market. If something works across the border, it will work in the highly competitive American market”. Being authentically natural is a nonnegotiable in China, says Thompson. “Nude by Nature is launching on Alibaba’s Tmall Global in April. It’s a good move because we are in control of our distribution and there’s no danger of compromising the brand”. Once launched in China we will be ranged in 9 countries, with over 4,800 doors globally which is an incredible result for the brand.
Strong Focus on Australia
As competition in the beauty industry has become fiercer than ever, celebrating a 10th anniversary is a major milestone. “We have played a patient game and taken our time over the brand’s evolution and said no to certain opportunities that weren’t suitable at the time”, says Thompson. “Apart from expanding internationally, we are still strongly focused on the Australian market. There is still plenty of scope for growth in the local market. Our conversion rate from regular to loyal user is very high, but a lot of consumers are not aware of us”. Even though Nude by Nature has kicked a lot of major goals at home and abroad recently, Thompson believes that it’s not a game of numbers. “We don’t have to be in the most doors, we need to be in the most successful ones. The growth of authentically natural products is increasing by leaps and bounds and by sticking to our policy of transparency, premiumisation and performance we are in a poll position”.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |33
01.
Growing Gains
– McPherson’s Puts Laser Focus on Core Pillars, Acquisitions and China by Elisabeth King
Re-focusing a business, even a successful one, takes time, energy and commitment. To unlock the full energy of a company, partners, investors, management and employees need to know what its future plans are. Laurie McAllister, Managing Director of McPherson’s Consumer Products, has implemented a corporate strategy to re-position solely on three core pillars – Health, Wellness and Beauty – the acquisition of startup brands and developing a China-facing business. McPherson’s is the number one Australian Beauty supplier in pharmacy and McAllister took on his current role in November 2016. He worked for Coca Cola for 23 years, including senior roles such as the President of Nordics and the Chief Commercial and Marketing Officer for Japan. A former Managing Director of Sanofi ANZ, he also led a significant turnaround of the French multinational pharmaceutical company’s consumer healthcare business, resulting in re-investment in Australian brands and the local market.
Building on Core Brands/Significant Growth/New Team A major priority is to revitalise our brands, grow our footprint in the $13 billion health, wellness and beauty categories and deliver significant 34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
02.
growth in pharmacy and grocery, says McAllister. “We plan to expand the export business model and build on the success of core brands such as A’kin and Dr. LeWinn’s. We have strengthened our financial position by reducing debt and are committed to a strong new product pipeline”. The new strategy has already paid off. By the end of the first half of the 2019 financial year, McPherson’s saw an 11 per cent increase in owned brand sales and a 14 per cent growth in sales across its six core brands, by contrast to the same period in fiscal 2018, says McAllister. “Dr. LeWinn’s sales revenues grew 80 per cent and A’kin sales revenues increased 11 per cent. We also saw a 108 per cent gain in sales revenues from the China market, despite of the fact we couldn’t keep up with supply”.
esprit Magazine promotion McAllister has also assembled a new management team. “We are the number one player in five categories with leading brands such as Manicare, Lady Jayne, Swisspers and Multix. We employ 430 people in total and 60 reps. Our focus is not only on our market leading brands, but also finding the right people to bring in, build and service sales and growth. The divestment of home appliances in February 2018 also generated $28 million”.
03.
Extending Market Leadership/Innovative Pipeline McPherson’s keeps a weather eye on data and trends to retain its pole position. The global organic personal care market is projected to increase to US$25.1 billion by 2025 and the global face mask category will reach US$8.8 billion over the next two years. “China represents 48 per cent of face mask sales and face mask revenues in Australia have doubled in the past two years, says McAllister. “Dr. LeWinn’s continues to be a leading cosmeceutical brand in pharmacy and the face mask category has been a major driver of growth. We launched two new anti-ageing masks last September and they are now in the top 10 anti-ageing masks in pharmacy. We have more in the pipeline and Dr. LeWinn’s Line Smoothing Complex range has grown over 30 per cent in the domestic market, driven by daigou demand”. The iconic Lady Jayne brand has long been the number one hair accessories brand in Australia. “ But through our renovation and innovation programs we have extended our market leadership to 31 per cent”, adds McAllister. “Manicare, the number one beauty accessories brand in Australia, is growing strongly both in pharmacy and grocery channels and during the FY19 we added $1.5 million in additional retail sales, further increasing our market leadership. Glam ranks as the number 2 in the beauty accessories category, but during last year’s peak party season, it rose to become the number one lash brand delivering $700,000 in incremental sales”. A’kin is another success story for McPherson’s and is ranked number two in pharmacy in the natural Haircare category with a growth rate of 17 per cent. A’kin’s skincare lineup alone saw sales growth of 30 per cent, by contrast to general category growth of 14 per cent, says McAllister. “Sustainability is top of mind for Swisspers and we launched the first paper stem cotton tip in Australia last year and gained an extra 4.2 per cent share points in the Woolworths cotton tip sector”.
Major Investment in Real Estate/Future in Brand Ownership McPherson’s has invested over $4 million in retailer shelving and high impact merchandising stands for Manicare, Lady Jayne and Glam to further spur growth and sales for its retail partners. The first phase in accelerating growth in Chemist Warehouse saw the launch of 335 merchandising stands in 130 stores and resulted in sales growth of 16 per cent, says McAllister. “This investment in real estate will continue in the second half and we will also launch flexible mask destination units. Working in partnership with other key retailers, we launched the Manicare Sonic Mini during the Priceline Spring Festival, for example, and gained two share points for the brand. Our strategic customer partnerships are invaluable for continuing success. We have secured 28,000 incremental distribution points in the second half already and increased participation by 65 per cent through new trading terms”. McPherson’s future is firmly on being brand owners, says McAllister. “Our aim is to create a new business through M&A. Startup ventures which are the right fit and which have domestic appeal in Australia and New Zealand and potential for China. To lower the risk, we will seek ownership of 51 per cent in the first instance. Venture partners will have proven IP, trademarks,
01. DR. LEWINN’S HERO RANGE 02. MANICARE – IN EVERYONE’S BATHROOM CUPBOARD 03. KŌTIA – MADE WITH NEW ZEALAND DEER MILK – MCPHERSON’S WORLD FIRST LAUNCH
proprietary category/business practices. As a high-quality ASX listed company with the merchandising skills to propel brand growth, like our multinational counterparts, McPherson’s brings a lot to the table”.
kōtia - A World First Launch/China-Facing Business McPherson’s is also looking for brands with a clear point-ofdifference and the first company to meet its criteria is kōtia. “Based on deer milk from the South Island of New Zealand, the new kōtia range is a world first in skincare, says McAllister. The brand launched in its native Queenstown in mid-February and more than 70 customers, media, China exporters and KOLs were on hand to experience the products. The reception was incredible and kōtia is expected to achieve earned media valued at $2 million. We launched the brand first with Green Cross Health through its Unichem and Life Pharmacy networks in New Zealand, starting with 100 doors and rising to 250. kōtia also rolled out on the top 20 doors of Farmers department store chain in mid-March”. Few other retailers are more experienced than Priceline at giving new brands market traction. “In Australia, kōtia will launch exclusively in the top 350 Priceline doors, including 15 of their leading daigou-facing doors in May”, says McAllister. “In the second half of the year, we will be looking at the leading department store chains and travel retail”. McPherson’s has export aspirations in 11 countries across North and South Asia, the Middle East and the UK, but our main focus is China, says McAllister. “I now visit China about six or seven times a year and the Chinese middle class is expected to grow by more than 850 million by 2030. Over the past three years, we have had consistent growth in the China market from $1 million in FY17 to $11 million in FY 19 and are on track to deliver sales of $20 million over the next two years”. McPherson’s has all bases covered in its approach to growth in China. “We have a strategic partnership with the Aware Group to meet rapid skincare demand in China, for example. We are also across major CBEC platforms, including Tmall, Little Red Book and JD.com. We are fueling growth for Dr. LeWinn’s with ABM (Access Business Management) to target the daigou market, in addition to working with the domestic pharmacy chains with major daigou businesses, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse and Pharmacy 4 Less. Our aim is to become a true China-facing company”. McPherson’s is already in negotiations to acquire two more venture brands which have unique PODs, say McAllister. Watch this space. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |35
INDUSTRY NEWS
MECCALAND SYDNEY ANNOUNCED
MAC’s campaign M.A.C is launching a huge campaign for nude lipstick speaking to depth, range and diversity within the lipstick category. ‘Stripdown’ launches online and in stores on the 15th April consisting of 36 nude Lipsticks, 12 nude Lipglasses and 12 Lip Pencils. That’s 17 new nude shades, while the other 19 are from the current M.A.C range. This establishes M.A.C as the goto for a nude lipstick with shades ranging from light to deep-dark.
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After the huge success of Meccaland, the retail beauty specialist’s first festival for the beauty obsessed, it’s back, bigger and better in 2019, and this time landing in Sydney from 17-19 May. With over 40 of the hottest global brands providing next-level experiences, superstar guests and limited-edition products, beauty lovers are set to enter five incredible and immersive worlds within the #MECCALAND space. Too Faced, NARS, Hourglass, Urban Decay, Drunk Elephant, Mario Badescu, MECCA MAX and Isle of Paradise are just some of the brands to be found within each of the beauty-full worlds, with festivalgoers able to express their #selfie with photo opportunities galore, get their hands on must-have product before on-sale date
and have access to the industry’s biggest superstars including celebrity makeup artists Mia Connor, Max May and Emma Chen, brand founders Zoë Foster Blake and Elle Ferguson and It gals and guys including Shani Grimmond, Bella Fiori and Eleanor Pendleton. The mainstage offers a jam-packed schedule of lessons and panel discussions for those looking to hone their skills with some of the industry’s best. MECCA founder Jo Horgan, says: “#MECCALAND 2018 was truly spectacular and we can’t wait to bring this interactive, theatrical and colourful celebration of all things beauty to our Sydney customers. The enthusiasm and excitement from those who attended last year’s event was infectious, so we are throwing out the challenge to all of our Sydney beauty lovers to see if they can top it!” Each of the five #MECCALAND worlds will offer festival-goers something different, with ‘Popstar Park’ a total playground for the beauty obsessed and ‘The Queendom’ where beauty royalty reigns supreme. ‘City of Lights’ is a true makeup metropolis, with bright highlights and a big city feel. For those wanting to slow it down a little, ‘The Wildflowers’ world is a field of dreams for the beauty bohemian and ‘Temple of You’ offers a moment of zen for the mind, body and soul. PICTURED: MECCALAND SYDNEY – A DATE FOR MAY
Employee of the Month We hear so much these days about big change. Yet, like a tiny snowflake plays an intrinsic part in an avalanche, so too do individuals make a difference to the success of a team and a business. One of our engaged readers and social followers, King Rakic from Gaslight Pharmacy in Sydney’s Rose Bay has won Employee Of The Month. The award is in recognition of his dedication, passion and hard work. Also recognised is Josh, who is a whizz in the stockroom. Says King: “Josh sorts the stock, I sell it to a good home…synergy. AND (I am having an amazing time) three weeks ago I got 95% on my Mystery Shopper report”. The Gaslight Team tell us: “The criteria for our Employee Of The Month includes their performance, ensuring that our customers receive the best customer service, implementing our core values as well as going the extra mile in regards to our Manager’s expectations. “Josh was brought in to improve our stock systems and procedures within our pharmacy. He has facilitated the transfer of our old storeroom to a location closer to our pharmacy to cut down on the time that it takes our staff to locate products for their customers. He has gone above and beyond our expectations on what was involved to achieve this. “King trained our staff on our beauty products whilst implementing all in-store promotions within our beauty, retail and natural medicine departments. He has increased our online presence with our social media posts as well as interacting with our customers and business partners”. Congratulations! PICTURED: JOSH AND KING – EMPLOYEES OF THE MONTH AT GASLIGHT PHARMACY, ROSE BAY
36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
esprit Magazine promotion
Made with love and nature’s best, Burt’s Bees shares its
Seasonal Sizzlers
Celebrate your lips every season with the iconic Burt’s Bees Lip Balm Collection made from responsibly sourced beeswax, plus the NEW Chai Tea Lip Balm available this autumn. Nothing says succulently smooth like Burt’s Bees classic Beeswax Lip Balm. Burt’s Bees have been bathing lips for over 25 years with their trusted responsibly sourced ingredients. Containing a hint of peppermint oil, the beautifully blended Beeswax Lip Balm is also packed with Vitamin E and conveniently fits in pocket or purse for easy lip hydration around the clock. With an all-natural lip-care quality that can’t be beaten, it’s no wonder that one lip balm is sold every second globally. CHAI-CHING!
FEATURES & BENEFITS CUSTOMERS WILL BE LICKING THEIR LIPS OVER! •R esponsibly sourced beeswax • Free of parabens, phthalates, petrolatum and SLS • Not tested on animals
Sweet, spice and everything nice! Your customers will fall for the NEW Chai Tea Lip balm this autumn. A warm blend of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, clove, pepper and tea extracts will leave lips feeling fuzzy and fierce. This earth friendly balm is the perfect pick for those who love to season their lips to match their moods. The BUZZ: Save some money on lattes because the Chai Tea Lip Balm will soften lips and make them taste deliciously chai.
nourish lips throughout the day, providing 8 hours of moisture with every application. These softly tinted balms will boost lips, guilt free. The BUZZ: Feeling sexy or sweet, the Tinted Lip Balm Collection comes in 6 different shades: Hibiscus, Pink Blossom, Red Dahlia, Rose, Sweet Violet and Zinnia. Burt’s Bees has been offering distinctive earth-friendly, natural health and beauty care products for 30 years. From a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine to the leading edge of natural, Burt’s Bees knows natural body care solutions from head-to-toe and operates with The Greater Good™ top of mind. Formulated without parabens, phthalates, petrolatum or SLS and no animal testing. Burt’s Bees is available from Chemist Warehouse, Priceline, Coles, Big W, David Jones, Myer and other independent pharmacies - for more information contact your local brand representative or visit burtsbees.com.au
MOISTURE MADNESS
Indulge in four hours of moisture after just one single application of Burt’s Bees Ultra Conditioning Lip Balm. With a combination of Kokum, Shea and Cocoa Butter, this moisture rich balm is sure to make all lips weather proof. Experience an elegant matte finish whilst maintaining all the soothing and repairing benefits that lips require. The BUZZ: This deep conditioning lip balm will combat dryness and stop those cracks in their tracks this coming autumn. TITILLATING TINTS
Double up on protection and style with Burt’s Bee’s Tinted Lip Balm Collection. Shea Butter and Botanical Waxes will ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |37
INDUSTRY NEWS
Max May NUDE BY NATURE MAKEUP AMBASSADOR…IT’S OFFICIAL!
AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES
& Art
Aromatherapy Associates, in conjunction with Live in Art and acclaimed artist Jimmy He, launched The Essence of Art - a wellness journey to reconnect with your authentic self and renew your body, mind and soul...surrounded by art. Thirty of Australia’s top beauty media and influencers were invited to experience a massage from one of the wellness angels, participate in a mindful workshop and learn more about the brand’s bath and shower oils. Taking home with them a personalised Bath & Shower Oil engraved by local engraver Elite Engraving.
It was only natural to pair two of Australia’s leading makeup moguls: Australia’s No.1 Mineral Makeup Brand, Nude by Nature appointing renowned Australian Celebrity Makeup Artist and long-time friend of the brand, Max May as their new Makeup Ambassador. Max’s 13+ years of industry experience and makeup expertise has honed his signature bronzed glow. It’s the kind of look we refer to as “an effortlessly cool ‘It Girl’ style and flawless finish”. Match that with Nude by Nature’s natural makeup approach and bingo – the perfect fit. Max comments: “I’ve been working with Nude by Nature for over three years now on events and shoots and I’m thrilled to announce our more formal partnership this year as Makeup Ambassador. They have the most beautiful product range that always looks premium in my makeup kit, plus an affordable price point bringing natural beauty to the masses. I really respect the brand and what they stand for – 100% naturally derived ingredients,
cruelty-free and proudly Australian – while never skimping on high performing product formulas, which as a makeup artist is key.” PICTURED: MAX MAY – NUDE BY NATURE AMBASSADOR WITH ELYSE TAYLOR – BRAND FACE
TBN outperforming the market You’ve got to hand it to Tony Rechtman, CEO and Owner, Total Beauty Network (TBN). For some 15 years he has evolved his company, encompassing the trends that sit with his personal ethics to deliver natural beauty retail brands with a focus on pharmacy distribution in the main, and in Inika’s case, department stores and salons. The company’s recent staff conference celebrated the fact that in 2018 TBN put more than 5 million products in the hands of pharmacy consumers. “Posting another stellar year of growth and sales in 2018, TBN as a whole – that’s DB Cosmetics, Raww, Colour by TBN and Inika Organic – achieved over 23% sales growth year-on-year, compared with the entire Australian cosmetic market averaging 2.4% 2014-2019*”, says Rechtman. DB Cosmetics achieved 17.13% growth in pharmacy sales. In addition, the brand previewed its Australian-made Bath & Body ranges: Kind and Glow with certified organic and natural ingredients. Both ranges are more than 90% natural in their formulations. 38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Raww achieved pleasing growth across pharmacy and health retailers. The new superfood-infused aromatherapy range launched. Additionally, cosmetics and skincare products joined the beauty line-up. Colour by TBN is described as the company’s cut-price champion. It’s a huge revenue driver for pharmacies with numerous new stockists, with its certified cruelty-free and certified vegan range for lips and nails, all under $4.00. Rechtman announced results from the company’s Customer Survey of Stockists. “As a testament to the work of the customer services and dedicated sales team for all 02.
01.
TBN brands, the company received 8.57 out of 10, satisfaction score for its services from 922 respondents”. In addition, TBN was named the winner of the Terry White Chemmart Best Service Award 2018. *IBIS World 2019 01. TONY RECHTMAN – CEO AND OWNER, TBN 02. HIGH FIVE TEAM TBN
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Discover more at www.burtsbees.com.au
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Petrochemicals, Phthalates, Parabens or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
INDUSTRY NEWS
01. GARY MCCAW WITH ESPRIT’S ANDREA 02. JOHN FISHER, JACK SAVDIE, ERIC MIZRAHI, JODIE PHILLIPS AND ESPRIT’S NICCI
03. BD ROWA TECHNOLOGIES: MARIA GUALTIERI AND PHILIP KOCH
04. INOVA: PRUE CORNISH AND AMANDA HARDCASTLE
05. SWISSE WELLNESS: ELIZA MILLSOM AND KELLY MCKENZIE
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Australia Pharmacy Professional trade expo You meet all sorts if you stay in one spot and let the world go by. In the spirit of this philosophy esprit Magazine’s Andrea Ferrari and Nicci Herrera ink in the annual APP trade show to our diaries as soon as the dates are released. This is a mustdo event for nurturing established relationships, saying hi to business friends, forging new connections and learning oh so much. We do have fun, too and take time to experience the innovations being launched to the beauty-focussed retail pharmacy exhibitors and attendees. The expo is complemented by a conference. Here are our highlights from achieving our 10,000 steps under one roof in one day at the APP in March. ÉVOLIS ® AND FILLERINA ®
For a woman, the health of her Crowing Glory is something she will pay to protect. Whether it’s from ageing, poor health or nutrition or aggressive treatment for a health concern, thinning hair, breakage and hair loss rank highly on her appearance-related fears. Guys feel it too, however a bald man is a far more common and accepted look than a bald woman. It’s identity, appearance and confidence related. Enter évolis® and its and clinically proven system for healthy hair growth. Gary McCaw and Georgia De Mello gave us the lowdown in a snap shot along with personal consultations with the évoliscopeTM microscope – an analysis and assessment tool which identifies the condition and state of the scalp and hair 40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
cycle in two minutes. This tool is a valueadding element of the business which can be used in Customer Events, guided by an évolis® technician in instore. Formulated by Australian and Japanese hair biologists, manufactured and produced in Australia, évolis® Professional is the only scientifically validated haircare range that targets the hair life cycle to deliver a person’s best hair. The hero Activator is descried as the ‘secret sauce’ that controls the hair growth cycle. There are three regimes: Reverse, Promote and Prevent. The 120-day regime claims, with daily use, to change fine, thinning hair texture to stronger, thicker hair and more hair growing at any one time. McCaw also tells us that if customers undergoing chemotherapy provide the brand owners, Advangen with a letter from their GP, the company will supply six months of évolis® to them for free. Check out www. evolisproducts.com.au or contact them directly on (02) 9233 8975 for further information. Advangen is the distributor for Fillerina®, a retail, topical, non-injectable alternative to professional fillers for use in the privacy and convenience of one’s home. Made in Switzerland the combined technology and premium hyaluronic acid-rich formula is proven to plump up fine lines and wrinkles beginning after 15 minutes of application with a lasting effect. The hero product’s delivery system is a dropper with fine hole to drip the liquid into and along visible lines. Creams for day, eye and lip maintenance complement. See: www. fillerina.com.au
CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL
John Fisher, founder of ChemCorp International is like the curator of a treasure trove of gems. Reminiscent of a Dickensian character he gathers soughtafter gems from overseas and brings them back proudly for his ‘family’ to work their ‘magic’. In other words, he sources discovery brands and through his, and is team’s reputation and proven track record, creates a sales and marketing strategy for building solid growth. New to ChemCorp is one such example: SpaScriptions is a New York based skincare company with an array of face, lip and eye masks in cream, mud, clay and sheet formats along with other skincare-focused products and tools. Enthusiastic customers in the US have shared their experiences on social media and the brand is exploding. Jodie Phillips, GM at ChemCorp is thrilled with the task of rolling out SpaScriptions to an already savvy fan base here. With full support from the US owners, the founders – Jack Savdie and Eric Mizrahi - flew in to Australia for the launch, visiting their APP stand to participate in pharmacy retailer reactions and media opportunities. ROWA TECHNOLOGIES
Thinking outside the box brings innovations to market that we then must get our head around. Demonstration is great for showing us ‘how it works’ and ‘what’s in it for me’. BD Rowa Technologies is a German-owned technology brand working with in-store furniture designers to create a robotic device that is “all about improving the
esprit Magazine promotion
Introducing
The Crème De La Crème of Hand Creams SUPERLIFT® Caviar Age-Recovery™ Hand & Nail Renewal Cream with Broad-Spectrum SPF 15 Neglected hands are a sure-fire giveaway sign to our real age. That’s why we think – and dermatologists agree – that it’s high time to show our hands some love. SKIN PHYSICS® newly released Advance SUPERLIFT® Caviar Age-Recovery™ Hand & Nail Renewal Cream goes above and beyond basic hand care. This luxurious antiageing formula is packed with active ingredients that smooth wrinkles and lines, deeply hydrate the skin, even skin tone, plump and lift for a completely indulgent hand treatment. SKIN PHYSICS® Advance SUPERLIFT® Caviar Age-Recovery™ Hand & Nail Renewal Cream is enriched with premium ingredients like caviar in a nutritious formula that is agedefying and a pampering experience unto its own. Caviar is loaded with vitamins and amino acids that provide building blocks for skin cells to function optimally. It’s been scientifically proven to improve the appearance of wrinkles, effectively add volume to the skin and enhance moisturisation. RRP $39.95. CLUE-UP ON THE KEY INGREDIENTS
Featuring essential sun-protection to guard the skin against the damaging effects of UVAUVB rays and external stressors, this divinely nourishing formula is also infused with: • The antioxidant power of Sulforaphane (in Swiss Garden Cress Sprouts) and Genistein (from Soybean), reduces age spots and evens skin complexion, with visible results in just 30 days; • Deeply hydrating effects of Saccharide lsomerate, retains moisture in the skin for instant, deep hydration, visibly smoothing skin; • Strengthening & repairing benefits of Pure Hydrolysed Keratin (from New Zealand Wool), which penetrates to hydrate, strengthen and repair damaged cuticles for healthy-looking nail; • Restoring properties of Niacinamide PC (Vitamin B3), reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles, improves elasticity, supports skin’s natural barrier integrity, rebalances uneven skin tone and reduces discoloration. Talk to your customers about giving their hands the TLC they deserve and enjoy smoother and younger looking hands.
CONTACT SKIN PHYSICS ®
Perfect for your trusted pharmacy environment! For this or more on the range, please check out the website and contact us at: www.skinphysics.com.au retail@skinphysics.com.au See pages 46 & 47 for details.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |41
INDUSTRY NEWS
06. LA ROCHE-POSAY: LUCY GARDNER 07. JAMES YOUNG FROM PENNAS PHARMACY IN SW SYDNEY WITH FROSTBLAND’S MELISSA ARROJA AND KELLY SALTER
08. KLORANE: KARIMA COUTEAU 09. DEXERYL: STEFANIE SNG AND LISA HOUGHTON 10. AVÈNE: JULIE DEJEAN AND BEC DOUGHERTY
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customer consultation”, says Philip Koch of BD Rowa Technologies. Working with well-known brands including L’Oréal, Dr. Grandel (German) and Caudalie, Rowa has created a unit that sits in store accessibly for customers to interact with. A customer picks up a product and wants more information on it; with or without the partnership of a store assistant the product can be scanned and then all the ingredient/usage information appears on the digital screen. A pharmacy can display the hero products from a brand on shelf but keep the full range back in the stock room. Through the on-screen consultation, a customer might be recommended a ‘back room’ item; they press on the picture on the touch-screen and select their order and it will be waiting for them at the pharmacy counter where they pay. That’s a hugely simplified explanation of only a part of the offer. Take a look at www.www.bd/rowa.com. INOVA
DermaVeen is a pharmacy staple but looked just a tad dowdy and invisible in its ‘old’ livery. But now it’s looking quite the smart player on shelf. With a packaging refresh that’s oblonged-up the previously angular shaped of the well-known hero bottle and with new labelling sporting gold features, the whole look is contemporary. Additional SKUs in moisturising bring further relevance for today’s consumer. Also on ‘show’ were the new look Invisible Zinc range and the Reef collection. SWISSE WELLNESS
Chatting with the girls at Swisse Wellness they reveal the newness in beauty. “NPD in skincare sees new Australian clay masks 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
and beauty from within. We’ve sourced beautiful ingredients from around the world with benefits chosen for specific concerns.” LA ROCHE-POSAY
La Roche-Posay’s focus for the expo was a medical training drive. “We ran a symposium on skincare for pharmacists as part of the conference program. Skin cancer education is our driver”, says Lucy Gardner. FROSTBLAND
“We’re here to elevate the brands that don’t get so much air time as the famous names in our portfolio and need to be spoken about more”, says Kelly Salter. The limelight was on Tabu, So…?, Sebamed, White Satin, Tweed and Lace – pharmacy heartland brands. PIERRE FABRE
It was a brand immersion on Klorane – sharing the range and its array of variants for specific hair and scalp concerns. For Dexeryl, the challenge is distribution”, says Stephanie Sng. “We are in 193 pharmacy stores out of 5,600 across Australia. We’re doing well with positive feedback from locations with skin specialists and dermatologists on site”. Dexeryl is on a mission to expand in relevant distribution. Avène’s new sunscreens with pump spray were the focus and also the fragrance-free, children’s sunscreen range. The benefit with all Avène formulations is that the base is thermal spring water, added to that the sunscreens are alcohol free, there’s five UVA/UVB sun filters and 50+ variants.
KEY PHARMACEUTICALS - BLISTEX
Blistex is a quiet achiever – it’s one of the stalwarts in every Australian home. Now there’s new Lip Infusions in two choices Nourish and Hydrate. And the packaging is elevated into smooth bullets rather than the basic stick. THE GIVING BRANDS COMPANY
Wellness and beauty solutions is how Alice McMillan-Drendel describes the company that now owns NailKalm and Tanned and distributes J Bronze. The Giving Brands Company is one to watch we reckon. The Tanned range catches the eye: it looks different and has a differentproduct line-up. There’s tanning milks, a tanner for tattoos, sunscreen and a face-sized mitt. RRPs range between $8.99 and $15.99. The company’s CEO, Christine Parkes drives business through her honed skills in manufacturing and product development. Giving Brands is a subsidiary of Wellness & Beauty Solutions (formerly Total Face Group). MCPHERSON’S
With a portfolio of brands second to none, the McPherson’s stand was a retail pharmacy audience’s lolly shop. “We’re here to build our presence and reiterate that McPherson’s is the beauty specialist”, says Katie Heron. So what’s new on shelf ? Dr. LeWinn’s Jellyfish Collagen Mask and the Reversaderm Collagen Mask. The brand uses a superior hyaluronic acid to give a super surge to plump-up the skin. Dr. LeWinn’s is experiencing great growth with its wide range of innovative and results-driven masks. Manicare’s new Sonic Mini with Sensihead is a new offer,
INDOOR OUTDOOR NEW TECHNOLOGY Revitalising, energizing and intensely hydrating skin care that combats all types of pollution.
INDUSTRY NEWS
11. KEY PHRAMACEUTICALS - BLISTEX: TRISH AMALM AND MARTY ATKINSON
12. THE GIVING BRANDS COMPANY: NICOLE MITCHELL, ALICE MCMILLAN-DRENDEL AND ESPRIT’S NICCI
13. HEAT DOWARD: KIM MATTHIAS, JADE FERRERI, LEANNE HARRIS, NICK KROGH AND KEVIN CAMILLERI
14. JACK N’ JILL: PETER GIBSON AND TRUDY ARCHIBALD
15. MELROSE: AYSE HALIL
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too: the silicon head gives what they refer to as a sensiscrub – gentle but effect. The head is detachable for cleaning, there’s two speeds, it’s water resistant, quick and quiet…and RRP $49.95. HEAT DOWARD
Focussing on our key pillar brands and showing our strength in beauty and confectionary was the purpose for Heat Doward at APP, says Leanne Harris. “We’ve come to the market with encouraging new deals for our partners in pharmacy…for example our new eyewear. We’re really investing in our brands and elevating the customer experience through the way we present and animate our
14.
brands. We’ve had good meetings with some of the pharmacy groups and met with some of our distributor partners, too. We’re showing that we can bring products together in a one-stop partnership and showing ways to theme experiences…like theatre-ing the season. There’s so much we can offer around the theme of the Winter Season, for example. JACK N’JILL
Brand awareness was the order of the day for Jack N’ Jill, an all-natural, zero waste baby bath & body and oral brand that’s perfectly placed for pharmacy and grocery. Across the full range branding is designed to be appealing to children
Givaudan launches SCENTAURUS, a new family of sustainable fragrance precursors Givaudan, as the global leader in the creation of flavours and fragrances, is dedicated to combining creativity and innovation to design beautiful fragrances. Their perfumers are behind thousands of the high street perfumes we all know well. Their latest innovation impacts on a whole new area of enjoying fragrance: fragrance precursors, called Scentaurus. This family of fragrance precursors expands the perfumers’ palette of ingredients offering the possibility for them to formulate long lasting fragrances for various applications. A fragrance precursor is a low odour molecule which, when exposed to an external trigger such as oxygen, light or water, will release at least one fragrant molecule. This new technology brings long lastingness to fragrances across several categories such as fabric, home and personal care products. The technology also offers a way to counteract habituation by signalling unique top notes during the life of the fragrance. This is a new family of precursors adding Clean, Juicy and Berry to the palette. Discover more at www.givaudan.com.
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and is cute enough that parents won’t mind it sitting on their bathroom vanity, also knowing it is safe and ethical at every touchpoint. And made by parents of young children themselves, here in Australia. Jack N’ Jill Toothpaste is 100% safe for young children – it’s swallow-safe! Complementing that are their in-house designed and manufactured children’s toothbrushes with handles that are made of non-GMO cornstarch, and are therefore biodegradable and recyclable. There’s a beautiful collection of bath and body products. Company ethics & values: “At Jack N’ Jill we believe that businesses have an obligation to the environment, that’s why we have formulated an allnatural, hypoallergenic toothpaste with organic ingredients, and designed our packaging to be minimal, recyclable and BPA-Free”. MELROSE
Tapping in to the conscious consumer who has a leaning to nutrition is Melrose with its range of high-quality Australian oils and powder blends – all ingestible. With good health comes glowing skin and Melrose has a range specifically for beauty. “Lots of skin problems are due to a lack of omegas. Our Omega 3-6-7-9 is a plant-based oil which caters to skin issues”, says Ayse Halil. The Beauty & Sleep Powder Blend is a 30-day supply of essential nutrients that the customer blends with hot water as a drink, which synergistically forms a complete beauty blend. Vit C Blends in pots and sachets are recommended as an anti-inflammatory and to assist in collagen production.
Look Good Feel Better is a free national community service program dedicated to teaching cancer patients how to manage the appearance-related side-effects caused by treatment for any type of cancer. Practical workshop demonstrations covering skin care, make-up and headwear leave Australians empowered and ready to face their cancer diagnosis with confidence. To register for a workshop or to show your support, visit lgfb.org.au or phone 1800 650 960.
Dragon' s Blood
IS TAKING OVER IN THE SKINCARE INDUSTRY Named amongst one of the most powerful anti-ageing ingredients in the skincare industry is Dragon’s Blood, which is said to have medicinal properties. Spoiler alert—it doesn’t actually come from dragons.
Dragon’s Blood is a sap found in the Croton Lechleri tree in northwestern South America. The name derives from medieval encyclopedias that claimed the resin was really the blood of elephants and dragons that perished in battle. Medieval myths aside, the tree sap has been used as natural medicine in South America for years, as it is believed to have anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. Dragon’s Blood is also known to have a calming effect. When applied topically, it forms a protective layer on the skin and reduces redness and irritation. SKIN PHYSICS® was the first brand to introduce the Australian market to Dragon’s Blood and remains to this day a best-selling range in Australian pharmacies. Recently SKIN PHYSICS® has celebrated this success with a face-lift and brought out fiery new packaging but one thing remains the same, the tried and trusted formulas remain highly effective and loved nationwide.
A Complete 24/7 Regime A unique range of formulas infused with the rejuvenating properties of Dragon’s Blood and a myriad of potent actives, each formula is designed to work in synergy to boost and maximise results.
FACIAL SCULPTING GEL | $59.95
“The Original Liquid Facelift” This fast-acting anti-ageing gel has the same formulation customers know and love! Its unique micro-hydration technology delivers an intense dose of long-lasting moisture to visibly plump, lift and firm the contours of the skin for a more refreshed and youthful appearance. It forms a ‘second-skin’ like film to reinforce the skin’s protective barrier and improve overall texture, firmness and elasticity.
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esprit Magazine promotion
ULTRA PLUMPING NIGHT CREAM | $59.95
“Now Kinder On Sensitive Skin” This potent hydrating and firming night cream uses the nourishing, moisturising and antioxidant properties of nature’s Dragon’s Blood Extract and Argan Oil. It contains 3D Plumping Spheres that deliver a high dose of Hyaluronic Acid into the skin, unravelling within to plump-out wrinkles, smooth facial lines and firm the skin. Fermented Pomegranate Fruit provides a rich source of exfoliating enzymes that work on dull dead skin cells to reveal resurfaced, refined and radiant skin.
RADIANCE DAILY MOISTURISER SPF 15 | $39.95
“Extra Protection From Infrared Radiation, Blue Light & Pollution” This Age Defense cream moisturises and protects the skin from five main causes of premature ageing: UVA, UVB, Infrared Radiation, Blue Light and Pollution. It is infused with an award-winning extract blend of Organic Sunflower sprouts, Tara Fruit pods (from Peru), which are rich in antioxidants that protect skin from damaging free radicals formed by Infrared (deep penetrating) and Blue Light (high energy). Plus, Natural Biopolymer forms a protective breathable film, shielding the skin from pollution stress such as heavy metals and fine particles, to reduce skin redness, skin sensitivity and irritation. The 100% plant-derived carbohydrate ensures instant deep hydration with a 72-hour moisturising benefit from first application.
3-IN-1 ADVANCED TREATMENT CLEANSER | $19.95
“With Extra Foaming Action To Purify Skin” This daily oil foaming cleanser provides the convenience of a 3-in-1 action for cleansing without stripping the skin of its natural oils. Now with greater foaming action, our 3-in-1 Advanced Treatment Cleanser clarifies the skin to reveal a rejuvenated, renewed and refreshed complexion. A natural blend of AHA fruit extracts gently exfoliates the skin by increasing cell turnover to reduce the severity of fine lines, wrinkles and dull skin.
Skin Physics® – what’s in it for you AND your customers Launched in 2007, SKIN PHYSICS® shook up the anti-ageing sector with its worldleading plant stem cell skincare and an extensive clinical study in Phototherapy and Retinol. Continuously first to market with breakthrough actives and technology, the brand’s SUPERLIFT® Neck Lifting & Firming Cream is the #1 best-selling neck cream in Priceline and the innovative Dragon’s Blood range is the #1 best-selling face treatment cream with over 500,000 units sold to date. A leading pharmacy brand with category leading lines and a notable list of industry awards for its cosmeceutical skincare. This year SKIN PHYSICS® released a range of targeted treatments that are highly effective and are designed to meet your customer’s needs including a new Nutraceuticals line; products that focus on beauty from the inside, out. Perfect for your trusted pharmacy environment! For this or more on the range please check out the website and contact us at: www.skinphysics.com.au retail@skinphysics.com.au. Dragon’s Blood resin extract used in SKIN PHYSICS® skincare range has been sustainably sourced from the Amazon. All formulas are free from parabens and sulphates. Suitable for sensitive skin.
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Consumer self-education drives growth, naturally THE GROWTH OF ORGANIC AND NATURAL BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS IN AUSTRALIA AND ACROSS THE GLOBE
With a growing number of Australians paying more attention to what they put in and on their bodies, it seems natural and organic is set to become mainstream. The expansion of the organic market globally, the rise of digital technologies, and growing consumer education, are all playing a part in the unprecedented growth of the natural beauty market. Today we see more and more dynamic and entrepreneurial businesses getting ahead of the pack as they tap into the natural products movement. 48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
01. CINDY LÜKEN, FOUNDER & CEO OF LÜK BEAUTIFOOD
02. WELEDA’S NEW SKIN FOOD 03. DR BRONNER’S PURE-CASTILLE SOAP AND BAR SOAP
01.
02.
SO WHY IS NATURAL BEAUTY BOOMING?
According to Lük Beautifood’s founder and CEO, Cindy Lüken, digital technology has empowered consumers to educate themselves to understand that what goes on, goes in. “Through digital means, women are discovering the truths in what products they apply to their skin, and they are embracing a wholebody approach to beauty and wellbeing. I believe there has been an umbrella change in consumer behaviour, where now they understand that what goes on, goes in”, she tells esprit.
EXPERIENCE
It is not only producers who are seeing change, but retailers too. Adore Beauty is Australia’s longestrunning online beauty store, and according to founder and director Kate Morris, the desire for highperformance products that are also ethical and sustainable is continuing to grow: “Adore Beauty’s consumers are highly educated and discerning; they want products that are
NATURAL BEAUTY
A new study from London-based analysts Future Market Insights (FMI) predicted the global natural cosmetics market will maintain a compound annual growth rate of 5.2%, reaching a value of USD 54 Billion by the year 2027, citing consumer education on product ingredients and increasing ethical consumerism as drivers of growth. Mintel surveys have found 49% of US facial skincare consumers aged 18 to 34 have purchased products with natural ingredients, and Persistence Market Research is even forecasting the international natural and organic beauty market will double within the next eight years. Mintel’s 2019 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trend report concludes that natural and organic is not merely a phase, but a whole new paradigm. From a consumer behaviour perspective, Euromonitor International has found a surging demand for natural products across all beauty and personal care categories, including both premium and mass channels, with consumers willing to pay a premium for products perceived to be safer than those with harsh chemicals, and cruelty-free credentials. With Euromonitor predicting the rise of the conscious consumer, existing producers and stockists of natural and organic products are positioned for future success. Here in Australia, the IBIS World 2019 report on Cosmetic and Toiletry retailing projects overall beauty and personal care industry growth to be driven by products produced in a cruelty-free, sustainable or environmentally responsible manner, citing an ageing population and more generally, an increasing awareness of health and wellbeing. Many retailers are seeking to increase their range of products marketed as natural, organic, local, ethical, eco-friendly, fair trade or carbon-neutral, and are turning to natural product trade shows like Naturally Good for inspiration.
03.
environmentally- and animal-friendly but also offer great results”. Changes in consumer purchasing behaviours are also a driver for green-sector growth. The US Indie Beauty Summit 2018 shared data stating online sales are rapidly increasing, and now make up 8% of the total global beauty and personal care market sales. Social media and digital influencers are revolutionising the way
people buy, with innovations like Instagram’s shoppable posts function opening new purchasing opportunities. This is particularly advantageous for smaller, indie brands like lük beautifood, who before the digital age might have struggled to widen their distribution. Lüken attributes these changes to customers looking for a more personalised shopping experience, and the growing Asian market. “In Australia, a lot of our beauty sales are influenced by the Asian market. Especially in China, consumers are looking to the west for new trends, and many are seeing Australia as a green bowl in terms of beauty and personal care products. For a lot of the Chinese market, it’s about trust in a brand, and being able to have their purchases shipped directly from Australia is a real advantage”, adds Cindy. Looking ahead, Mintel predicts brands that put short-term profits before transparency risk becoming insignificant. Thanks to the surge of organic products globally, digital innovation and evolving shopping habits, the natural way of life is becoming a normal way of life, with the beauty and personal care sector leading the charge. Cindy Lüken will be leading a discussion panel on the indie beauty trends impacting Australian retail at the 2019 Naturally Good Expo, 2 and 3 June, ICC Sydney.
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NATURAL BEAUTY
GET READY FOR THE RISE OF
the conscious consumer AT NATURALLY GOOD 2019
Naturally Good offers the ultimate place to see, sample and experience the world’s best natural, organic and healthy products under the one roof. Euromonitor International research has found a surge in demand for natural products across all beauty and personal care categories in both premium and mass channels, with consumers willing to pay a premium for products perceived to be safer than those with harsh chemicals, or with cruelty-free credentials. With beauty being the fastest growing segment in the sustainable, natural and ethically-sourced retail space in Australia, Naturally Good 2019 is the best place to discover all that’s new and next from those at the forefront of the clean, green and natural beauty movement. The two-day showcase takes place at ICC Sydney on 2-3 June, featuring 360 exhibitors from the world’s leading natural brands. 2019’s beauty and personal care area is Naturally Good’s biggest yet, with more than 90 exhibitors from the likes of doTERRA, Jack N’ Jill, Dr. Bronner’s, Weleda, Beauty Sensation and Bio Beauty.
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This year’s exhibition also features a Start Up Zone, so visitors can be amongst the first to see the most innovative products from emerging brands who started business within the past two years. Retailers and business owners looking for the next big thing will be able to learn from local and global beauty experts, see innovative and emerging products, build new connections and develop their skills all under one roof. In addition to previewing 360 exhibitors across the beauty, personal care, health, home, living, food and beverage sectors, trade visitors have the opportunity to hear from global experts at the Expo’s Education program, which for the first time is open to all visitors at no additional cost. Attendees will gain practical insights on how to grow their business in retail, e-commerce and strategy from industry specialists, including Natural Products Consulting principal Bob Burke, who will share his wisdom on how to break into the competitive US market. Another highlight is a spotlight on the indie beauty trends
shaping Australian retail with founder and CEO of Lük Beautifood, Cindy Lüken, and founder of The Natural Beauty Expert Blog, Belinda Hughes, joined by local beauty buyers, influencers and researchers. Don’t miss the Southern Hemisphere’s largest natural, organic and healthy trade show featuring more than 360 exhibitors, including over 90 world leaders in naturally good beauty and personal care. Join the growing way of life and register today to reserve your place. For further information, visit naturallygood.com.au. Visitor registration is now open at naturallygood.com.au/esprit
2-3 June 2019 ICC Sydney Darling Harbour
360 Exhibitors Food & Drink Beauty & Personal Care
A growing way of life
Home & Living Natural Health
2–3 June 2019 ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour With more and more Australians paying attention to what they put in and on their bodies, a healthy way of living has grown to be a normal way of living. And with over 360 exhibitors and 6,000 buyers there’s no better way to grow your connections, grow your knowledge and grow your business than by discovering the latest natural products and trends at Naturally Good 2019.
TRADE ONLY EVENT
Grow with Naturally Good. Register at naturallygood.com.au/esprit
Naturally Good is a trade only event. Proof of business identification maybe requested at the door.
NATURAL BEAUTY
COMMUNITY PHARMACY
Emerging evidence links beautiful skin to
gut health by Melissa Peterson, AdvDipHSc(Nat) GradCertEvBdPrac
esprit Magazine Australia’s retailer readership is hugely connected to the country’s chemist shop owners and stalwart staff working on the shop floor day in and day out. Taking their role in the community 100% seriously The Pharmacy Guild of Australia has its focus on education and building the trust customers have in their local pharmacy. Working closely with The Guild, here esprit features one of the leading topics in community chemist shops with a slant to the retail beauty side of their growth – inner beauty for an outer healthy result. While a customer may visit the pharmacy to fulfil their prescription there’s a whole lot more they can find in the environment across wellness, health and beauty…all contributing to how they look and feel!
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The original research, by two dermatologists, linked gut dysfunction and stress-induced alterations of the gut flora to increased intestinal permeability, where material passes from inside the gastrointestinal tract through the cells lining the gut wall, into the rest of the body. This action could lead to systemic and local skin inflammation. Their theory was that emotional states were linked to these gut microbial changes and resultant skin conditions. And so, the concept of the gut-brain-skin axis was developed.1 Inflammatory bowel diseases (IBD) strengthen the evidence for the gut-skin axis, with up to 40% of IBD patients experiencing symptoms affecting other organs than the intestine; the skin being the most commonly affected organ.2 Evidence also shows that up to 40% of acne sufferers have low stomach acid, which has been linked to increased intestinal permeability and small intestine bacterial overgrowth (SIBO). Increased intestinal permeability can negatively enhance your immune system’s sensitivity.1 One study showed SIBO is 10 times more prevalent in acne rosacea patients than others.3 Many skin conditions, including acne vulgaris, acne rosacea, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, have increased inflammatory or immune activity, with links to imbalanced gut bacteria and an increase of bad bacteria in your gut. A recent review showed golden staph bacteria, known as Staphylococus aureus and which causes long-term inflammation, may be associated with psoriasis and acne.4 More research is required; however, the link between bad bacteria and skin conditions is not new, with antimicrobial treatments being the mainstay treatment for acne for decades. With antibiotic resistance now on the rise, probiotics are now being explored.1 In the first experimental study of its kind, probiotics reduced stress-induced skin inflammation, with observations showing potential for skin renewal, hair growth and other beneficial responses to perceived stress.5 Probiotics may also affect skin health by maintaining the intestinal barrier, regulating and reducing sebum production of acne through cannabinoid receptors, influencing the gut’s ability to absorb nutrients and omega-3 fatty acids, and increasing our resilience to stress.1 The cells of the gut, brain and skin are linked by common origin. Skin conditions are often complex, with no single pathway for the development of disease, and scientists are understanding more and more every day, so those of us who are down about our skin can anticipate a holistic approach to treatment. This ‘gut-brain-skin’ triangle is definitely an emerging area of health research to watch!1
NATURAL BEAUTY
Having bad skin can affect our mood, confidence and emotional health. And it’s likely those who’ve experienced skin problems have tried and tested product after product, treatments, diets as well as common old wives’ tales. But did you know that evidence linking the skin and our intestinal health, also called the gut-brain axis, has been developing for many years? More recently there has been a re-emergence of the gut-skin axis theory from its discovery 80 years ago. TOP 5 NUTRIENTS FOR GREAT SKIN ALL YEAR ROUND 1. Good quality protein - look for a 100% whey protein isolate (WPI) product for optimal bioavailability and results. 2. Essential fatty acids - we’ve heard the benefits of omega-3, but omega-7 is ideal for moisturising dry skin from the inside out.
3. Antioxidants - increase fruit and vegetable consumption, top up with green tea and consume glutathione (both orally and topically) to reduce the impact of environmental factors. 4. Lactoferrin - a great complementary supplement to reduce skin oiliness and breakouts. 5. Probiotics - recommend your customers speak to a healthcare practitioner about which one would most benefit them.
SUMMARY
Invite your customers to speak to a healthcare professional to learn more about supplementing with high-quality multistrain probiotics to support their inner and outer health. For more health articles, visit www.bioceuticals.com.au References 1. Bowe W, Patel NB, Logan AC. Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gut-brain-skin axis: From anecdote to translational medicine. Benef Microbes 2014;5(2):185-199. 2. Huang BL, Chandra S, Shih DQ. Skin manifestations of inflammatory bowel disease. Frontiers in Physiology 2012;3:13. 3. Parodi A, Paolino S, Greco A, et al. Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth in rosacea: clinical effectiveness of its eradication. Clin Gastroenterol Hepatol 2008;6(7):759-764. 4. Totte JE, van der Feltz WT, Bode LG, et al. A systematic review and meta-analysis on Staphylococcus aureus carriage in psoriasis, acne and rosacea. Eur J Clin Microbiol Infect Dis 2016.doi 10.1007/s10096-016-2647-3 5. Arck P, Handjiski B, Hagen E, et al. Is there a ‘gut-brain-skin axis’? Exp Dermatol 2010;19(5):401-405.
CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA LEVEL 2, 15 NATIONAL CIRCUIT, BARTON ACT 2600 PO BOX 310, FYSHWICK, ACT 2609, AUSTRALIA P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 WWW.GUILD.ORG.AU
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |53
NO SULFATES
NO PARABENS NO PHTHALATES
NO PROPYLENE GLYCOL
NO MINERAL OIL
Fresh Start
Core Metrics Unveils A New Era and Target Audience for Cult Classics 4711 and Tabac by Elisabeth King 01.
The vogue for all things retro has sparked an intense interest in the classic colognes that have left a lasting mark on today’s blockbuster fragrances. There has been a huge revival in the refreshing spritzes of some of the most legendary names in the fragrance business, particularly in Asia. And they don’t come much bigger or have more heritage than 4711. Over the past five years, Maurer & Wirtz, who also own Tabac, the iconic men’s fragrance, has been re-positioning 4711 as a contemporary juice to appeal to Millennials and Gen Zers aged 20 to 40. The German company also set its sights on the premium end of the fragrance market and debuted the 4711 Aqua Colonia collection, a unisex range made from high quality ingredients such as lavender, ginger and myrrh known for their positive effect on body, mind and soul. To accelerate international expansion, Maurer & Wirtz have used travel retail as a major launch pad. The Asia/Pacific region, which has fueled the great cologne resurgence, has been a major target in the re-positioning of 4711 and Aqua Colonia has rolled out in major airports from China to India, the Middle East and Eastern Europe. Airlines such as Lufthansa, Royal Jordanian and EVA from Taiwan have also included the world-famous brand in amenity kits owing to its unparalleled reputation for refreshment and invigoration. 56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
Expert Guidance/Trends Have Come Full Circle
In late 2017, Sally Desancic started a new distribution company for fragrances as part of Core Metrics, the business she founded with her husband Ray. The company’s portfolio of six top-selling brands includes market leaders in affordable, naturally-based skincare such as The Goat skincare and C.Lab & Co. Widely-known as The Perfume Hunter, Desancic worked for leading distributors such as Trimex and Hagemeyer and the My Chemist group for more than 30 years, successfully introducing some of the world’s most prestigious brands to the Australian market and delivering sales and marketing strategies for such major names as Estée Lauder, Givenchy, Nina Ricci, Kenzo and Clarins. The first fragrance to be launched was Women’Secret and the portfolio now includes all the fragrances from Perfumes y Diseno, the Spanish company which develops and markets fragrances for
COMPANY PROFILE
03. 02.
international brands in over 80 markets, such as Tous, Halloween, Philippe Starck and Desigual, says Desancic. “Following Maurer & Wirtz’ successful campaign in repositioning 4711 and 04. Tabac, especially in Asia, I felt the time was right to grow their presence in the Australian market. 4711 has always had a major cult following in Australia because its benefits suit our climate. But trends have come full circle and heritage brands like 4711 have many of the attributes today’s younger generation are looking for”.
Multi-Benefits For All Ages/Unbeatable Heritage
Firstly, like the best-selling Eau Dynamisante from Clarins, 4711 is a treatment fragrance, says Desancic. “It’s also multi-purpose which is another strong beauty trend now. Pop a bottle in the fridge to cool yourself down on a hot day, use as an aftershave, an aftersport refresher or even a disinfectant at a pinch. That’s why we are ranging large 800ml and 300ml bottles because of the many uses of 4711 and there’s also a 90ml bottle to slip into handbags”. Desancic also wants to reinforce 4711 as a full body range. “We will also be focusing on scent-impregnated tissues and a body spray. People are accustomed to using wipes and the tissues are also perfect for all ages. 4711 also connects with the fast-growing clean beauty trend. It has only eight main ingredients which appeals to consumers looking for products with minimal ingredients because they are very conscious of what they put on their skin. The hygiene aspect is also an important selling point in our climate as it is in Asia”. There’s a lot of talk about newness but customers of all age groups, especially Millennials, love heritage, notes Desancic, and 4711 delivers in spades. According to company legend, in 1792 a Carthusian monk gave founder Wilhelm Muelhens a secret recipe for “aqua mirabilis” as a wedding present. The young businessman began producing the “miracle water” as a health drink and revitalising elixir. During the French occupation of Cologne at the time of the Napoleonic wars, the occupying forces proclaimed that the formulas for medicines must be publicly disclosed. Muelhens dodged the legislative bullet by re-branding his signature product as a fragrance. The French also ordered the numbering of houses in the German city to assist in the billeting of their soldiers and the re-birthed fragrance factory in the Glockengasse - still the brand’s flagship store - was designated number 4711.
Prestige Yet Affordable Strategy/Mother’s Day Launch
The Aqua Colonia collection represents a more upmarket yet still affordable direction for 4711. Each fragrance is presented in a 170ml
04.
01. MILLENNIALS LOVE HERITAGE AND 4711 DELIVERS IN SPADES
02. SALLY DESANCIC – CO-FOUNDER CORE METRICS
03. 4711’S ACQUA COLONIA 04. TABAC TAPS INTO THE GROWTH OF CONTEMPORARY BARBERSHOPS IN AUSTRALIA’S CAPITAL CITIES AS AN AFFORDABLE LUXURY
bottle and is inspired by nature, says Desancic. “We will be launching five of the fragrances in April in time for Mother’s Day - Pink Pepper & Grapefruit, Blood Orange & Basil, Myrrh & Kumquat, Lemon & Ginger and White Peach & Coriander. They will be priced at an affordable $59.00 and are perfect for mix-and-match layering like more expensive brands such as Jo Malone, Creed and Tom Ford”. Desancic is already confident of Aqua Colonia’s success with the range’s alluring at-home spa and well-being appeal. “Later this year we will introduce three more fragrances - Saffron & Iris, Mandarine & Cardamom and Lime & Nutmeg. Next year, we will release the Intense lineup as consumers look for different scents to relax and escape from their busy schedules”.
Tabac Takes Aim at Younger Men/Cues in with Barbershop Trend
The tart and spicy woods, musk and amber notes of Tabac Original debuted in 1959 and Maurer & Wirtz has also been working hard to target younger, fashion-conscious Gen Z and Millennial males. The return of barbershops as hip hangouts in Australia and globally has catapulted Tabac onto the radar of younger men. A pop-up Tabac Barbershop debuted at the TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes in 2016 and has rolled out internationally in the UK, Germany, South Africa and Spain. Tabac sales are stronger than 4711 in Australia, says Desancic, and the brand is also sold by upmarket men’s grooming specialists such as Men’s Biz”. Men are very sensible, says Desancic, when it comes to quality and value. “Tabac taps into the growth of contemporary barbershops in Australia’s capital cities as an affordable luxury. We will be ranging the 100ml eau de toilette, the 300ml aftershave, the 300ml eau de cologne and the body spray and shaving foam - all affordably priced. Men tend to use products sparingly, so a big part of the appeal of the invigorated Tabac brand will be maximum value for little outlay”. Maurer & Wirtz took over the Baldessarini men’s fragrance brand from Procter & Gamble in 2012. The acquisition was in line with the company’s goal of expanding its presence in the prestige category and boosting international sales. The Baldessarini range has been a strong driver of growth in Asia, the Middle East and Europe. “We also have the distribution rights for Baldessarini but more about that in the future”, adds Desancic. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |57
INTERVIEW
BOLD MOVES
Pippa Hallas, CEO of Ella Baché, Talks About Inspiring Others, On-Trend Products and Service Innovation
by Elisabeth King
01.
Hallas is the third generation of the family to run Ella Baché, now in its 83rd year, and has been a driving force in the on-going expansion and success of the company. So much so that Wiley, the prestigious global publisher which specialises in academic publishing, approached her to write a book on what it takes to be a female entrepreneur and how to structure a successful business. The result of the collaboration is - Bold Moves - How to Stand Up, Step Out and Make Your Next Bold Move.
Ten years ago, when Pippa Hallas became CEO of Ella Baché, one of Australia’s most renowned skincare brands, she didn’t see a lot of female founders being public about their success. Today, social media has made a dynamic founder story crucial to the promotion and marketing of beauty and skincare startups. But there’s nothing new about determined and talented women forging an enduring legacy in the beauty industry from Elizabeth Arden to Estée Lauder and Ella Baché, Hallas’ great-aunt. Life, Step into Your Power, Own Your Tribe, Own Your Skin and Own Your Legacy - and the talent lineup is a who’s who of Australian female achievement. Layne Beachley, the most successful female surfer in history, Lorna Jane Clarkson, the athleisure entrepreneur, Carolyn Creswell, the brains behind the multimillion dollar brand, Carman’s Fine Foods, Jessica Watson, the intrepid mariner who became the youngest person to sail solo and unassisted around the world, fashion
designers Kym Ellery and Kit Willow, and award-winning journalist and advocate, Tracey Spicer, recently named 2019 NSW Premier’s Woman of the Year. Disruption is an over-used word these days, but successful women like Pippa’s Great Aunt, Ella Baché, also lived in times of upheaval and they didn’t have social media or the Internet to turn to for advice. Yet despite advanced technology, greater transparency and expectations, it can still be
GIVING BACK/WHO’S WHO OF AUSTRALIAN FEMALE ACHIEVEMENT
There aren’t a lot of women in my position, says Hallas. “The opportunity arrived at the right time. I had just come through a tough year following the death of my mother. The #MeToo movement was exploding everywhere and the book not only allows me to tell Ella’s inspiring and still very relevant story in my own voice, it also involves other Australian women I respect and admire”. Bold Moves is aimed at women of all ages and its guiding principles and straightto-the-point advice are invaluable for any type of business, not just beauty. “I wanted remarkable women in the book whose experiences spanned the age and lifestyle spectrum and was astonished by the enthusiastic response”, says Hallas. Each chapter has a theme - Own Your Story, Own Your Voice, Design Your 58| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
02. 01. ELLA BACHÉ’S LATEST LAUNCHES: 100% NATURAL - RADIANCE + TREATMENT OIL AND COLLAGEN + TREATMENT OIL
02. PIPPA HALLAS – CEO ELLA BACHÉ – AN INSPIRATIONAL LEADER FOR THIS 3RD GENERATION LEGACY BRAND
03. MADAME ELLA BACHÉ
03.
CORE VALUES, CUSTOMISATION, CONTEMPORARY INGREDIENTS
A heritage business can be a balancing act, but Hallas has protected the core values of Ella Baché as a brand people can trust while keeping abreast of the latest trends in services and new products. “We’ve really placed a major emphasis on social media as part of our communications strategy and re-evaluated our services to meet the changing demands of what women want today”, adds Hallas. “In a nutshell, they want to be in safe hands to achieve a natural look and fast results”. Customisation has become a nonnegotiable, an easy segue for Ella Baché because our mantra has always been - no two skins are alike - says Hallas. “Women want the latest technology, whether its IPL, laser or ingredients. Tastes change, of course, and it’s vital to stay on top of trends. A good case in point is brows, which have moved from a backstory to top-of-mind. We have also invested heavily in online and our customers can book direct with the salon of their choice. Our website emphasises education through to the end customer with focused information by category, skin concern and collection and our widely-read blog. Afterpay is also available online to help customers balance their beauty budgets”. Innovation has always been a hallmark of Ella Baché from the invention of the first waxing strips to Madame Baché’s pioneering work with hyaluronic acid. “The clock has been wound back in some ways”, says Hallas. “Younger people, in particular, want to see transparency in the supply chain and more active natural ingredients. The very principles Madame Baché built her business on - essential oils - are much in demand again for people who care about good, healthylooking skin. Three years ago, we launched a botanical oil, with Hemp oil and Kakadu
plum formulated for inflamed, sensitive or dehydrated skins. Two of our latest launches are 100 per cent natural - Radiance + Treatment Oil and Collagen + Treatment Oil - which debuted on March 25th”. Both are on-trend. More and more people are worried about the effects of blue light emanating from smartphones and other sources. According to research. Millennials check their smartphones over 150 times a day, by contrast to older adults who do so 30 times a day. Regular exposure to blue light can cause colour changes, inflammation and weakening of the skin’s barrier. “Our new Radiance + Treatment Oil contains liquorice root and rice bran extracts, Kakadu plum seed, soy bean oil and more to act as a shield against pollution and blue light”, says Hallas. Australian native and Byron Bay hemp seed oils are key ingredients of the two new oils. According to US researcher, the Kline Group, 2019 will be a boom year for luxury and speciality players to launch products using hemp oil and cannabidiol as a major ingredient, thanks to their anti-ageing and antioxidant properties and ability to improve common skin concerns such as eczema and psoriasis. We did a lot of research into contemporary ingredients and hemp seed oil has many beneficial effects on the skin, says Hallas. “It’s easily absorbed, suits all skin types and can be used alone or a couple of drops can be added to a favourite moisturiser”. Charcoal is another white-hot ingredient because of its detoxing and anti-pollution powers. “Our new Charcoal Foaming Mask, also launched in March, deeply cleanses the skin, boosts radiance and moisturises in one-go”, says Hallas. “In testing, 94 per cent of users said it unclogged their pores after one use and 95 per cent felt their skin was detoxified. Masks are still trending strongly, and can be used at home or as a booster to any Ella Baché facial”. YOUNGER CLIENTELE/NEW TREATMENT MENU PAYS OFF
Ella Baché has 145 salons nationwide and we are still opening new ones, says Hallas. “Half of our customers are over 35 and half are younger. The uniting factor between the two groups is that both want, clear, healthy-looking skin in as safe and fast a way as possible. Our product launch and treatment schedule will continue to be busy all year with two super-hydration products, including new results-focused skin treatments, an elixir, and new sunscreen and tanning SKUs”. The Diploma of Beauty Therapy from the Ella Baché College of Skin & Beauty
INTERVIEW
an overwhelming experience, especially as a younger woman, to walk into a boardroom full of men, says Hallas. “I am the mother of two young boys and there can be even more pressure when you are in the position of guarding a successful brand’s legacy and positioning it for future growth. I wanted to write a book that really helped other women in their daily lives, careers and attitudes in an easy-to-digest format they could dip in and out of or read in one go”. Hallas has succeeded. Bold Moves is a riveting narrative that is hard to put down and is packed with wisdom, not platitudes or feel-good homilies, that tracks everything from the entrepreneurial spirit of her family to globalisation and the impact good and bad - of social media.
Therapy is one of the most highly regarded qualifications in the industry. In 2016, Ella Baché introduced a new Graduate Certificate course in IPL and laser hair removal, a 14-week course to help beauty therapists up-skill in the latest technologies. This month, with the launch of a new learning Technology platform, the Diploma of Beauty has been re-mastered into ED-FLEX to allow students to customise their own way to study. The new education model provides great flexibility for those wanting to change careers, work and study at the same time or mums wanting to upskill. We work with all students to provide both work experience and employment opportunities. Another major initiative supporting Ella Baché franchisees was introduced in September last year - a new services menu to springboard a four-year strategic development plan. Highlights include 14 new skin solutions, new personalised treatment packages and new technologies. “The feedback and positive effects on product and services sales has been amazing”, says Hallas. A bold move for a CEO who practices what she preaches.
Bold Moves by Pippa Hallas (Wiley) is available from leading book stores such as Dymocks, David Jones book departments and ellabache.com.au from April, RRP$29.95. All sales proceeds will go to the Cherish Women’s Cancer Foundation, a nationally registered, not-for-profit organisation based in Brisbane. Founded by Professor Andreas Obermair in 2012, the foundation generates funding for research and clinical trials for the development and implementation of kinder ways to treat women with gynaecological cancer.
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BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business.
AUSSIE MADE R E TA I L G U R U T I P S - BY L I Z W E B S T E R N I C H E F R AG R A N C E N E W S ONLINE SHOPPING HABITS AC C O R D C O N F E R E N C E
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CORE METRICS
BUSINESS
Tijana Desancic, This month esprit sat down with Tijana Desancic, Co-Founder and Marketing Director, Core Metrics Pty Ltd, the company responsible for the creation of some of Australia’s most beloved skincare beauty brands like The Goat Skincare, Pure Paw Paw and C Lab and Co. Here she talks about working in the family business, how great people are the cornerstone of success, and how it’s really all about trust. CORE METRICS IS A PROUD, FAMILY-OWNEDAND-OPERATED COMPANY. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PART OF THE BUSINESS?
WHAT CHALLENGES HAVE YOU FACED AS THE BUSINESS EVOLVED OVER THE LAST 20 YEARS?
For many years I was managing so many different departments, from sales to marketing and even accounts, I didn’t even know what title to give myself. Hiring more staff was one thing but letting go and allowing them to take charge was another thing completely. It was a huge transition for me, but I quickly realised that we hired them for their skills and I’m so blessed to have such a hardworking team who go above and beyond our expectations - I’d be lost without them. Nowadays, one of the greatest challenges is juggling my time between working from home and looking after my toddler, and the hours I work at HQ… not to mention growing baby number two. The juggling act is real, and so are the long hours. But the secret for me is trusting in the people who work with me, allowing them
to help, and letting them feel a part of my plans - for now, and the future. If they’re going to be there for the long haul you need to let them be a part of the journey. Transparency is everything to us, we don’t expect everything to be smooth sailing but it’s easier to get through it with a reliable team.
Aussie made
Since I was straight out of high school! I remember helping my parents pack orders for Priceline in the late ‘90s when our first brand, The Bronzer fake tan range, was born. Back then we were operating out of our rumpus room, using excel spreadsheets to create invoices, and fax machines (remember those?!) The Internet was still in its infancy so there was no website either - it was about rolling up your sleeves and doing the work yourself. And while this made it a great time to learn the nuts and bolts of the business, it’s certainly easier now that we have software to help us manage the back end - plus it leaves more room for us to work on the creative side. Back then I was only part time because I was at Uni but I always knew I’d end up back in the business, partly because I’d watched my mother’s own career in the industry since I was a child. And, as the demand, and my parents’ work hours increased, I wanted to step in and help.
WHAT’S A VITAL INGREDIENT ABOUT BUSINESS YOU’VE LEARNED OVER THE YEARS
Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Whether it’s for guidance, advice, or just to help your ideas get off the ground, connecting with the right people is everything in this industry. It’s how we were able to launch some of our own big ideas, and even today if we don’t have the skills within our arsenal, we’ll connect with the right people to get the best outcome. WHAT’S ON THE CARDS FOR CORE METRICS IN 2019?
Our business is truly blessed to have my mother, Sally Desancic, who is an industry veteran as a part of our team. Her long-standing contacts have seen our little family business grow into markets we previously only dreamed of. Core Metrics is spreading our wings this year and introducing a new department. The strength of our own brands’ distribution across the world has given us the opportunity to distribute other brands within Australia and we couldn’t be more excited about the potential. We have six global brands in our portfolio so far (and growing), which means hiring more new wonderful staff – and we take that as a great sign that we’re on the right path to creating and working with brands that Australia wants to see.
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BUSINESS
You’ve created a product… now, how do you get it
on shelf? By Liz Webster – retail beauty guru.
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The world of retail has changed so much in the last ten years, let alone the last twelve months, so how and where do you start? Before you even consider knocking on the door of a prospective retailer, have you thought about where your brand/product is positioned in a brand hierarchy?
Here are some questions to ask yourself? 1. What’s the positioning of your brand? Is it prestige, “masstige“, or a mass product? (love the word “masstige” and is, as it sounds, sitting between prestige and mass). 2. Who is the customer? 3. Does your product address specific customer or retailer concerns or can anyone use it? 4. Does it need someone to sell it or can it be a “self select” purchase? But without even answering those questions, let’s start with the two channels that you can control and set up yourself before you even hit prospective retailers; firstly, your own e-comm through your website and secondly, your social media channels. Of course, if you haven’t already, get yourself a “snazzy” website. There are so many cost-effective ways of doing this, but my #1 rule is to make sure it’s easily shoppable. Your own e-comm should be your first retail channel, and if you do this right, it will always be your most profitable channel. Outside of the financial advantage, your own e-comm will allow you to build a customer database, giving you invaluable insight into your customer, enabling you to have a conversation with them, and very importantly, target them again for future purchases. The rise and rise of social media as a method of selling product has never been easier. Both Facebook and Instagram are strong retail channels and should be a “no brainer” as part of your retail mix. Instagram as a retail channel can’t be ignored. Did you know that 70% of millennials buy straight off Instagram? Let’s be honest, why wouldn’t you, if you love something you’ve seen as you’re scrolling through your feed. It makes it so easy for a prospective customer. They click through, straight to your website and before you know it, you’ve made a sale! So where to after you’ve got control of your own channels? It is time to decide where your product or brand sits in a hierarchy, as it will determine which retailer you approach. If you have a prestige brand/product, then you start with department stores, like Myer and David Jones and upmarket beauty retailers like Mecca and Sephora. Whilst department stores are facing some challenges, the beauty floors are still strong retail destinations. Specialty beauty retail is in growth in Australia and they’re taking significant share of the beauty dollar, so if your brand is prestige or “masstige”, go for it.
BUSINESS
Have you created the world’s most amazing beauty product that will make those who use it look twenty years younger and twenty kilos lighter? Well, let me at it!!! Only kidding of course, but huge congratulations to you! Now, after all the blood, sweat and tears of your creation coming to life, how do you get it into the hands of the consumer? This is where the next stage of the hard work begins, convincing a retailer to stock your product.
A tip for you; you can’t go into mass market retailers or pharmacy and then work your way back up. Most prestige retailers won’t stock you if you’re in channels that they deem sit below them in the product hierarchy. If you’re “masstige”, or mass, then pharmacy is the channel for you, especially the big pharmacy chains, like Priceline, TerryWhite Chemmart and Chemist Warehouse, who each have significant beauty destinations. The pharmacy retailers are also a great channel if you have created a product that addresses specific concerns; e.g. sensitive or problem skin issues. Customers with these concerns will be directed to a pharmacy for a solution to their problem. Discount department stores and supermarkets are also very strong channels for beauty, especially if you have created a product that is mass market. Supermarkets receive the highest foot traffic weekly, so being able to secure a grocery retailer can be a significant win for your brand. Some other channels to consider are service retailers like beauty therapy salons, hairdressers, small boutiques and even injectable clinics. All service retailers are trying to add value to the customer with the view to win their loyalty, so offering relevant product to complement the service is another way of capturing the customer’s loyalty and wallet. Pure play e-comm retailers are another way to target the beauty customer and Australia’s longest running online beauty store, Adore Beauty stocks everything from prestige to mass. Finally, the most important point to remember is that whichever retail channel you choose to pursue, you will be given targets to achieve to justify your position on the retailer’s shelf or on their website, so the hard work begins again to achieve those targets. Good luck!
ABOUT LIZ WEBSTER
Liz Webster is an experienced senior retail executive who has been General Manager Merchandise at API, owner of Priceline and Group General Manager Cosmetics, Footwear & Accessories and Intimate Apparel at Myer. Prior to retail, Liz had a long and successful career in media, making her knowledge of brands and how to market them to the consumer, unique. At both Myer and Priceline, Liz has been involved in securing many brands and knows very well what it takes to launch them successfully. Featuring in each issue of esprit Magazine’s BUSINESS section, Liz will share her tips and tricks to ensure you’re prepped and ready to present your brand to retailers from pitch to execution in store and beyond.
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What’s hot in
the Lab
esprit Magazine Australia columnist, Amanda Foxon-Hill continues her series on trending topics from the guys in the white coats. Amanda is an experienced and respected Cosmetic Chemist with a global career spanning 18 years. The key to Amanda’s success is her well-rounded experience spanning all areas of business and product development and commercialisation including sales, marketing and export. Over to Amanda…
Managing your Quality Control and Batch-to-Batch Variability While some batchto-batch variation is to be expected with natural cosmetics it is fair to say that most of your customers will become frustrated if their favourite moisturiser comes out of the packaging as a thick cream one purchase and then as a lotion the next. As a manufacturer that works with many up-and-coming brands we are frequently asked questions about product specifications. Some stockists even insist on products being supplied to them with Quality Control paperwork and this typically includes a product specification for the whole product and a Certificate of Analysis for each specific batch. This then begs the question ‘what are those things and how do I get them?’ 66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
The Product Specification A good product specification should outline the main physical and/or microbial characteristics of your product so that whoever manufactures the product knows what they are aiming for and, importantly, what they are trying to avoid. Setting the specification for a product is a step-by-step process that involves all stake holders – the manufacturer, the brand owner and consideration for the final customers. From a manufacturers perspective a broad specification is desirable as it is easier for them to hit a large target. Conversely, customers usually fall in love with an exact look, feel and colour and would, if they could, demand the exact same each time. The brand owner must deal with the consequences of both and manage expectations accordingly considering any constraints of their packaging, ingredient choices, brand promise and clientele. A pragmatic approach is best here so that the manufacturer avoids producing endless batches of stock that are then rejected (if the specification is far too narrow) while the brand owner and customers receive products that work and are consistent with the brand promise. The exact parameters that make up a product specification vary across each product type and may include criteria that are specific to a certain brand or promise but in general, and as a minimum, product specifications typically include a description of how the product should look and smell, a measure of the range of acceptable viscosity, specific gravity and (maybe) refractive index and the product pH (if it contains water). Together these details paint a picture of the type of product being manufactured and supplied. Getting a product into a position where a specification can be set is a process in itsself. A product may have to be manufactured several times (batches) before a true specification can be created, one that is tight enough to be meaningful but broad enough to be practical in manufacturing. It is difficult to make a realistic specification on the first batch as one does not yet have experience of what is possible/probable with the product. Because of this it is typical for a product specification to be tweaked over its manufacturing life as knowledge of the peculiarities of that mixture and process become better known and understood. Changes to the specification may also be necessary if the final packaging that the product is sold in is changed.
BUSINESS In a nutshell, the product specification is an overview document that outlines the range of acceptable values for a product ensuring quality and uniformity to the level reasonably practical and commercially acceptable.
The Product Certificate of Analysis While a specification is an overview, the Certificate of Analysis is a highly specific document outlining the actual test results of a batch. Each time a product is manufactured the batch will be measured against the specification. These measurements will determine if the product passes or fails the Quality Control check. If the product passes, a Certificate of Analysis will be written up for that batch and that batch will move on to become commercial. So, where a specification may outline a pH range for a product, the Certificate of Analysis will give an actual value for the batch.
So how does a brand go about getting this paperwork for their products? As there are no legal minimum criteria for what should be on a specification or a Certificate of Analysis, a brand owner could create this paperwork themselves with minimal measurements based on what they see, feel and smell about their products. However, such lax specifications will be of limited value to the brand owner and their clients and will add very little to the overall professionalism of the brand. The best way to ensure your paperwork is relevant and meaningful is to have it produced in conjunction with a manufacturer who has an established and thorough Quality Control procedure in place and who is likely to be manufacturing your scaled-up product for at least three or more batches. This paperwork can then be used by the brand owner to help them satisfy themselves, their insurers, stockists and end users that their products are of good and consistent quality time after time, batch after batch and what brand wouldn’t want that!
Amanda Foxon-Hill
Cosmetic Chemist Amanda’s diverse laboratory and factory experience spans a broad cross-section of the cosmetics industry from smallscale hobby manufacture all the way to 20 ton batch production. This hands-on expertise ensures that the formulation work produced by Realize Beauty on behalf of clients can be implemented on both a practical and commercially viable level. Amanda is also a fun and vibrant presenter and has no difficulty in communicating sometimes complex scientific issues to the lay person or brand owner, thus allowing them to gain a deeper understanding of their brand or consumer product. Amanda is a chemist at New Directions Australia. www.newdirections.com.au New Directions Australia 47 Carrington Road Marrickville, SYDNEY NSW 2204 Australia P: 612 8577 5952 F: 612 8577 5977 Toll Free: 1800 637 697
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BUSINESS
A I N S L I E WA L K E R TA L K S
NICHE FRAGRANCE NEWS
In recognition of esprit Magazine Australia’s Super 60th issue I pondered over how this column could celebrate, through the world of niche perfumery. When esprit first came out in 2004, there were probably less than 10 international niche perfume brands available in Australia! Noting exponential growth, I can name 60 international niche brands now here! Let’s celebrate the big 60, niche style! 1. 2787 Perfumes 2. Arquiste / Esencia de el Palacio 3. Aedes de Venustas 4. Amouage 5. Agonist 6. Andrea Maack 7. Atelier des Ors 8. Altaia / Eau d’ Italie 9. By Kilian 10. Byredo 11. BDK Parfums 12. Beaufort London 13. Carner Barcelona 14. Creed 15. Truden 1643 16. Comme des Garcons 17. Costume National 18. Clive Christian 19. DS and Durga 20. Diptyque 21. Diana Vreeland 22. Etat Libre d’Orange 23. Escentric Molecules 24. Eight and Bob 25. Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle 26. Frapin 27. Floral street 28. Floris 29. Gallivant 30. Helmut Lang 31. Heeley 32. Histoires de Parfums 33. Juliet has a Gun 34. Keiko Mercheri 35. Lubin 36. Liquid Imaginaires 37. Lalique 38. Le Labo 39. Mona di Orio 40. Maison Margiela 41. Marc-Antoine Barros 42. Maison Francis Kurkdjian 43. Mizensir 44. Miller et Berteux 68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019
45. Naomi Goodsir 46. Nomenclature 47. Nasomatto 48. Olfactive Studio 49. Orto Parisi 50. Officine Universelle Buly 51. Penhaligans 52. Ramon Monegal 53. Robert Piguet 54. Roos and Roos 55. Santa Eulalia 56. Santa Maria Novella 57. Serge Lutens 58. Tocca 59. Vaideimelle 60. Teresa Helbig There is significance in this HUGE number -and kudos goes to the pioneers who brought these brands to our shores, in particular Jo Horgan – Mecca, Hilary Gwillam, Jill Timms - Peony, Andrea Birnie - Kleins Perfumery, Shmuel Tal - T2M and Nick Smart – Agence de Parfums, Libertine and Galerie de Parfum. Niche by definition has included key aspects such as not being mass produced (although this can be argued now as Niche boomed and brands have expanded), art/ creativity is the main focus - not necessarily commercial in scent – bolder, more original and daring, brands work closely with and celebrate the perfumer and are distributed more sensitively with very little advertising. These days niche brands frequent the pages of newspapers and mainstream magazines, some are household names, being bought out by bigger beauty houses such as LVMH, Estée Lauder etc. Large or small, niche is definitely here, crossing borders and becoming mainstream. Peony After bursting into 2019 with their annual February sale, there’s a distinct feeling proprietor, Jill Timms is making way for some exciting new brands to hit the shelves.
Newly discontinued exclusive brands include Heeley, Mona Di Orio, Ramon Monegal and Aedes Venustas. Jill cited the reasoning behind such a cull was varied. In some cases international brands do not understand the Australian market or the needs of an independent store in Australia, including setting RRPs, freight issues and order sizes. In the case of her beloved Mona Di Orio: “unfortunately the brand was before it’s time”. Some brands sell to Australia via their own websites, rendering the relationships useless – an independent store cannot survive if customers only come in to smell stock, then buy online cheaper. Some brands are available on the grey market and in growing numbers of stores increasing competition. One needs to stay on top and Peony Melbourne has always been about spotting up-and-coming brands – leading trends and curating carefully to ensure a unique experience and drawing in the curious. Perfume Lovers Meet Up – Sydney, Melbourne, Perth Perfume lovers from Aussie Fragrance Network met in Sydney, with attendees traveling from WA to Perth and LA. There was much sniffing, swapping, smelling and decanting going on. In particular collectors of vintage were there to demonstrate their latest rare finds. MeetUps occur regularly in Melbourne, Sydney and Perth – see Facebook for details.
BUSINESS
The online customer of 2019
– a hungry beauty-beast! BY S A R A H M U L L E N G E N E R A L M A N AG E R – A D O R E B E A U T Y
Keeping up in the ecommerce space is a tough gig. The nature of the game is that it moves at a pace dominated and decided on, by the consumer. That pace is fast and the consumer is ever changing. Content Led The consumer in 2019 is incredibly informed, educated and thirsty for information on all things beauty and cosmetics. Our in-house Beauty IQ blog provides relevant and useful content for consumers weekly and is now an important strategic direction. It’s basically a full service offering, helping customers choose such things as the right shampoo for curly hair or moisturiser for dry skin. Instagram has taken the concept of live content to new heights. Through intense in-house content development, we can show consumers how a favourite product glides onto the skin, looks when it’s first applied to a nail, or how you’d mix up the perfect ingestible potion. The use of live videos and short glimpses of stories allows customers to listen to anecdotal gold dust such as snippets about fake tan during office chit chat from our offices! It’s real, it’s helpful and it’s instant and satisfying.
Service level expectation This historic formula seems good enough, right? Make sure the order dispatches on time and, remember, the customer is always
right! Except that the 2019 consumer demands so much more than that. It’s like a 2000 Rainbow PaddlePop versus a 2019 hipster handcrafted in-house gelati with organic berries. We’re talking same day dispatch, night and weekend delivery options, free express shipping, AfterPay payment options, samples, 90-day returns and live chat with professionals until 9pm. No longer are consumers happy with the basics. Think large, think free, and think fast!
Site navigation One of my favourite fashion retailers allows me to filter with seven fields, and then I can filter a little more. It basically rolls in a rack that’s been perfectly selected for me by their personal shopper. #filterlove. A basic retail principal and especially important when you’ve got north of 12,000 SKUs. Consumers won’t wade through 45 pages waiting to find the right product for them. Be awesome and hand it to them. As our brand portfolio expands, SKU count increases and trends change, this is a daily never-ending task. Remaining relevant and anticipating consumer shopping behaviour is key to the ecommerce space.
ABOUT SARAH
With a strong fashion and cosmetics background, and passionate about product and brand, Sarah Mullen joined Adore Beauty in 2013. Sarah is now the General Manager overseeing Brands, Customer Service, and Operational departments.
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BUSINESS
g n i f o o r p Future our Industry
Accord Cosmetic & Personal Care Conference – ‘Future proofing our industry’ 5-7 December 2018. Our industry is being challenged from all sides. Greater scrutiny of ingredients. Technological disruptions. Increased consumer expectations and greater diversification of expectations across generations. Challenges to institutional and brand loyalty. The growth of influencers outside of traditional supply chains. These are just a few of the pressures that may strike a chord with your business. Accord’s 2018 Conference was all about the Cosmetic and Personal Care sector taking control as we examined the threats and looked at opportunities created by a dynamic, everchanging global environment. Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au
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“Best conference ever!” – Samantha Hass, Scientific & Regulatory Affairs Director Australia & New Zealand, L’Oréal Wednesday 5 December saw an intimate Accord Member Briefing at the Four Seasons, Sydney, focusing on happenings in Europe and the UK, the USA and New Zealand. John Chave, Director-General of Cosmetics Europe, Lisa Powers, Executive Vice President of Public Affairs & Communications with the US Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and Garth Wyllie, Executive Director of Cosmetics New Zealand provided insights, including on broad-implication policy/political level issues and on industry-specific challenges, as well as their respective associations’ approaches to these. Conversations continued over the Industry Leaders’ Dinner, making the most of opportunities to connect with our international colleagues. Thursday 6 December was the main conference event, attracting key personnel from the cosmetic and personal care and related industries. Some came for networking, some to learn about the latest developments, some for predictions about future trends – and some for all the above. It was an excellent, highly engaging event, ably emceed by Accord Public Affairs Director, Craig Brock.
“A not-to-be-missed gathering” Tracey Raso, Chair of Accord and Regional Managing Director of Revlon/ Elizabeth Arden Pacific, opened the Conference. Her address acknowledged the unprecedented disruption facing our industry, but also highlighted that “not all disruption is a bad thing…harvesting opportunities from disruption requires shifts in thinking, changes in the way we go about
business, and ideally rules and regulations that have the necessary flexibility and adaptability in order to handle this disruption.” In this vein, Ms Raso unveiled Accord’s new 2019-21 Strategic Plan:“I am pleased to inform you that, in these times of unprecedented change and disruption, we have just finalised a new Strategic Plan so that the association can further strengthen its advocacy and representation for our industry.” SO, TO THE CONFERENCE PRESENTATIONS
Cosmetic Europe’s John Chave presented on The state of the global Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry – where we are now and where we are likely to be in 2020. He urged the global industry to be more proactive in promoting the many benefits of cosmetics – not just relating to hygiene but also the very positive impacts on self-esteem, personal confidence and social interactions. Michele Levine, CEO of Roy Morgan Research presented Are Australian consumers different? Amongst her many fascinating insights on what Australians value, including experiences being more important than things, Michele highlighted the vital importance of trust. “Truth made simple” was her take-away message to help our industry build and retain trust. PCPC’s Lisa Powers spoke on Scanning the horizon to identify emerging issues, identifying hot topics of animal testing, the Hawaiian sunscreen ingredients ban, microbeads and the attack on preservatives. Lisa emphasised the importance of collaborative approaches, holding all accountable for their respective statements relating to our industry’s products and ingredients, and communicating with one voice boldly and with transparency. Peter Le Guay, Partner with Thomson Geer provided information on the updated
BUSINESS
01. 02.
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Australian Consumer Law – getting ready for business, product safety and product claims. Peter used case studies to help demonstrate what actions/information could be classified as misleading or deceptive and how businesses can avoid false or misleading representations. He concluded on mandatory reporting requirements of product safety incidents and current – greatly increased! – penalties. Mark Daniels, Executive Director of Social Traders spoke on Delivering social impact through your supply chains. Mark proposed that procurement spend can also be used to deliver social impact, using two case studies where contracting social enterprise delivered benefits to both the contracting business and the community. Mark also advocated that businesses consider the new ISO 20400 Sustainable Procurement guidance standard as a helpful framework for best practice procurement. Fran Deighton, Strategic Solutions Manager at Junkee Media told us that “Youth: they’re not who you think they are” – What personal care and cosmetic brands can learn about the new youth consumer. Fran addressed misconceptions about millennials: rather than rebellious, carefree and uninhibited, they are conservative, ambitious and morally-driven, with increased focus on health and wellness, and increasing concern over company/brand ethics and integrity – providing plenty of opportunities for our industry! Sharon Kwek Si Ling, Senior Innovation and Insights Analyst of Beauty and Personal Care at Mintel presented Moving forward – the influence of mega trends on cosmetics and personal care. Sharon identified three mega-trends that will impact our industry: sub-zero waste –
04.
requiring a paradigm shift in sustainability approaches; beauty with a brain – using science to prove credibility; and, You 2.0 – the increasing importance of the single consumer market.
01. MIKE RAE & SHARON KWEK, MINTEL; TRACEY RASO, REVLON & ELIZABETH ARDEN; ELLIE KIM & SAMANTHA KING, ROBERT FORBES & ASSOCIATES; ANDREA FERRARI, ESPRIT MAGAZINE; TERRY LITTLE, ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES
02. JOHN CHAVE, COSMETICS EUROPE 03. CAPTIVATED ATTENDEES AT THE COSMETIC
“A fantastic conference with great insights into the cosmetic and personal care industry” As part of the conference were two Panel Discussions comprising local industry experts: Terry Little, Managing Director at Estée Lauder Companies, Ken Lee, Regulatory Affairs & Quality Manager at Beiersdorf and Michele Levine, Roy Morgan discussed Strategies to future proof your brands; and David Johnston, Managing Director of Weleda, Clint Piper, Brand General Manager at Aveda and Kiera Flynn, Corporate Social & Communications Director at L’Oréal Australia shared insights on Meeting consumer needs and wants. In her closing remarks, Bronwyn Capanna, Executive Director of Accord, summed up the common theme arising from the excellent presentations and panel discussions – that critical to the industry’s success was maintaining credibility and reputation. She urged the industry to “Be proud, be transparent and be authentic in what we do and how we contribute. Be proud, be transparent and be authentic in our passion and commitment to society and our consumers. So that, together, we can embrace disruption and harness emerging trends, to truly future proof our industry.” On December 7, Accord Regulatory and Technical Manager Catherine Oh delivered her excellent Regulatory Basics Training course to a full room of industry professionals.
& PERSONAL CARE CONFERENCE
04. FROM L TO R: NICCI HERRERA, ESPRIT MAGAZINE; SAMANTHA HASS, L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA; MICHELE LEVINE, ROY MORGAN RESEARCH; LISA POWERS, PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS COUNCIL; JOHN KOPPL, ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES
Hope to see you at the next Accord event in 2019. Dates will be announced soon! ACCORD WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE GENEROUS SPONSORS FOR THE CONFERENCE.
PLATINUM SPONSOR ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES SILVER SPONSORS REVLON and ELIZABETH ARDEN ONE IN BEAUTY BRONZE SPONSORS RFA REGULATORY AFFAIRS ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA MINTEL ACCORD WOULD LIKE TO THANK ALL THE MEMBER COMPANIES WHO DONATED PRODUCT FOR THE CONFERENCE.
Delegates Bags: Beiersdorf, Clorox, Colgate-Palmolive, Heritage Brands, La Prairie, L’Oréal, Revlon, Weleda Lucky Door Prize: Procter & Gamble Gift Bags: Aesop ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |71
MY JOURNEY
Monique Smith
An Eventful Career Path by Elisabeth King
The confession that you liked accounting isn’t heard that often. But Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ, says that the required attention to detail leads to a well-rounded business mind.“There’s a logic to accounting because the numbers have to balance and make sense, which grounds you in discipline no matter what you end up doing”.
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Following the completion of a commerce degree at Monash University, Smith’s father advised her that she would be good at event management. “I headed for London after graduating and while working in a bar in Soho a guy came in one night and I told him that I was looking for work in event management. He said his girlfriend had just left a job and he could hook me up with her job. What an amazing stroke of luck, yet the moral of the story is to be clear on what you want and tell anyone and everyone! Next morning I became the PA to the Managing Director of Urban Caprice, a high-end events and catering company”. Their client list was the best of the best from Unilever through Coty, Fendi and Jo Malone, says Smith. “I quickly progressed to the role of Event Manager and worked on such major projects as the Elle Style Awards. The role emphasised creativity and implementation and really honed my skills and ability in bringing brands to life. Every brand was different, but the common thread was quality execution and my experience in the UK laid the foundation for where I am today”. Following a four-year stint in London, Smith returned to Melbourne. “I began working as Senior Event Manager at 2 Fish Management, who specialised in sponsorships. One of the clients was L’Oréal who were very active in leveraging sponsorships across events like L’Oréal
Melbourne Fashion Festival, the Australian Open and the Melbourne Cup. For the first time consumers were experiencing major brands and their products one-to-one through live brand activations like Garnier World and L’Oréal Paris Powder Room activations”. But Smith wanted to get closer to the brands and their strategy. “I moved to the client side position of Event Manager, L’Oréal Paris, Garnier and Maybelline, from 2006 to 2011. Then it was time to get even closer to the brand strategy. I approached Mark O’Keefe, who was the General Manager, Consumer Products Division at the time, and told him that I wanted to get into brand management. I have always believed in the maxim - If you don’t ask; you don’t get. But you have to have the emotional intelligence to know when the timing and the opportunities are right. A vacancy had just come up on Garnier Fructis, Mark said OK and I started soon after”. Smith’s commercial nous came to the fore in the new job. “Garnier Fructis was a small part of the business with very little ad budget. L’Oréal is a very entrepreneurial company and encourages you to stretch yourself. We created online how-to videos, content hubs, instore activations and more to achieve record results, on nothing”.
MY JOURNEY
Smith moved to Garnier hair colour after six months and then moved through to become Group Brand Manager for skincare. “It was a very exciting time for Garnier as we launched the now iconic BB cream. Consumers were unsure of what the product was and could do, so we did a lot of consumer research and created advocacy through word-of-mouth and mummy bloggers. The launch was a huge success and the start of a booming segment”. Working for L’Oréal really helped Smith’s personal and career development. “I am really grateful for the skillset I acquired and the opportunities that were available to grow across categories and channels. I put my hand up to take up the opportunity of Marketing Manager Speciality Luxury Brands which took me to prestige brands such as Kiehl’s and Shu Uemura. I had a bigger team, more SKUs and new distribution channels. At the time, Kiehl’s was the only L’Oréal brand with online sales and its own standalone stores and Shu Uemura offered the opportunity to learn the importance of customer service, and enter the complex world of cosmetics”. Smith was keen to locate to Sydney and live in Bondi, she jokes but says honestly. “I began work for Coty in 2014 as the Marketing Manager for the nail business, including Cutex, OPI and Sally Hansen. I was privileged to launch Miracle Gel for Sally Hansen, a game-changer in the category. Gavin Blackburn, then Managing Director of Coty Australia, saw what I had achieved at L’Oréal and offered me the career-defining role of Marketing Director across skincare and cosmetics, a unique portfolio of prestige and mass brands including Rimmel, Bourjois, OPI and philosophy”.
Then the biggest merger in beauty history happened, says Smith. “Coty acquired over 40 brands from Procter & Gamble which catapulted the company from a number nine global ranking to number three. “In late 2016, I became Marketing Director for the Consumer Division ANZ, across 16 brands, 4 categories and over 2500 SKUs. It’s a hugely diverse portfolio, ranging from Rimmel for Gen Zers to Max Factor and Clairol for older demographics. Last year, we re-launched Covergirl which was a huge opportunity, and now proudly the brand has become the first major name to go cruelty-free”. Smith believes she has been fortunate to work for two multinationals who value entrepreneurial spirit. “It’s an attitude that gives employees ownership and scope to show what they can offer”. Hard work is a given in a fast-changing industry like beauty, yet it’s also crucial to show initiative, drive and be brave and go beyond. Never forget to put yourself in the shoes of the consumer and social media has made it easier than ever to get this insight. What I have valued about every job is the opportunities to come up with strategies to bring brands to life, to create experiences and connections with consumers that drive brand love, trial and ultimately achieve significant growth”.
Hard work is a given in a fast-changing industry like beauty, yet it’s also crucial to show initiative, drive and be brave and go beyond. Never forget to put yourself in the shoes of the consumer and social media has made it easier than ever to get this insight.
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OUT & ABOUT
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THE NATURAL GOODNESS OF KŌTIA If Dianne the ‘milk maid’ hadn’t queried the improved look and feel of her hands after working with her deer herd’s milk in New Zealand maybe kōtia skincare would never have existed. Her usually cracked and weathered farm-working hands were evolving as soft and beautiful wonders with strong, beautiful nails as she handled the deer milk for Graeme Shaw’s boutique deer’s milk cheese manufacture. Shaw, a proven entrepreneur, had an immediate light bulb moment and galvanised himself into finding out WHY. A batch of deer’s milk went off to the chemists at AgResearch for analysis and bingo, the result, in a nutshell: this milk has everything to make skin heal and grow healthily. Comparing it to other milks, deer milk has significantly higher nutrient content such as 9.10g of protein per 100g – that’s around three times the amount of cow and goat milk at around 3.3g each. Deer milk’s Vitamin A Retinol content the only proven anti-wrinkle constituent records 163.20µg per 100g, while sheep’s milk is at 80µg, with cow and goat milk at 60µg and 40µg respectively. So, what did Shaw’s inventive mind make of this abundant nutritional profile. While his wife continued with the artisanal cheesemaking business bolstered by the knowledge her cheese was delivering dietary benefits, along with a unique and delicious taste, Shaw himself turned to the beauty industry. “We went on a journey to find the best skincare formulator, who in my experience is Sigrid Vorwek”, says Shaw. She flew to Auckland and agreed to Graeme’s brief: “This has to be the best skincare and something people will love”. He called it kōtia. (the micron over the o makes it sound more like or – so, we pronounce it, kortia). With his embryonic range Shaw shared his dream for a global skincare brand with industry leaders in brand
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03. 01. KŌTIA SKINCARE RANGE 02. BEAUTY MEDIA MEET THE NEW ZEALAND DEER, GUIDED BY GRAEME SHAW, IN QUEENSTOWN
03. LEADING BEAUTY MEDIA AND PRICELINE GUESTS HOSTED BY MCPHERSONS
development, McPherson’s Consumer Goods. With thorough scientific due diligence, the team proved to themselves the huge opportunities for this world-first NZ deer milk skincare range. Together they evolved the kōtia brand to deliver a dermatologically tested and certified range with clinically proven performance. Beauty media were flown to Queenstown, NZ to meet Graeme and his deer, as guests of the McPherson’s team, who presented the full story from farming to the product launching in their world-first retailer. David Fielding, Strategy Director at McPherson’s says: “In Australia we are working in close partnership with Priceline as our exclusive retail pharmacy stockist whereas in New Zealand we are partnering with Green Cross Health through their Unichem and Life Pharmacy networks as well as Farmers Department stores.” Tiffany Mitchell, a co-owner of Life Pharmacy Wilkinsons is thrilled with the partnership which meant her team created the world’s first kōtia customer who bought the Rejuvenating Serum, and then returned a few days later for the Hydrating Day Cream. “Life Pharmacy has a prestige
offer. It is all about customer service”, Tiffany tells esprit. Bronwyn Davies - Senior Buyer Skin Care at Priceline, has worked with McPherson’s across the retail planning for kōtia so the trip to Queenstown brought the backstory to life for her. “As a buyer it’s my role to make sure that any products we range live up to their promise and offer something unique to our customers. After seeing firsthand the pristine New Zealand environment where the deer are raised, it’s obvious why there is such richness in their milk. Nature has delivered a superior quality ingredient that Graeme and the kōtia team have crafted into a premium skincare range that we are excited to bring to Australians exclusively”, says Bronwyn. Media were interested in the animal welfare aspect to tick that box. Tony Pearse from the Deer Industry New Zealand explained the ethical farming protocols. A key takeaway is that the doe to her fawn relationship is highly protective and the doe will not release her milk if she is in any way unsettled, hence the caring milking process. Which brings us back smoothly to Dianne the ‘milk maid’!
OUT & ABOUT
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01. THE NUDE BY NATURE DREAM TEAM: DIANDRA REID, EILEEN CRERAR, KRISTINA KUNKEL, MARK THOMPSON, JESINTA FRANKLIN, LEANNE PARODI, GEORGE TSOUKALAS AND MIRELLA MAGRI
NUDE BY NATURE CELEBRATES A DECADE IN MINERAL MAKEUP! Australia’s no.1 Mineral Makeup Brand, Nude by Nature celebrated its 10th birthday in style with the country’s leading media, influencers and celebrities at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar for a champagne birthday breakfast. This is an incredible milestone for the cult Australian favourite which is still proudly Australian owned 10 years on. The event was hosted by none other than Australian model and Presenter, Jesinta Franklin, one of Nude by Nature’s first campaign ‘faces’ – who noted in her speech that she still loves the Natural Mineral Cover Foundation as one of her go-to foundation choices so many years on. A best seller for the brand, the Natural Mineral Cover sells one every 100 seconds here in Australia. Nude by Nature also announced the appointment of renowned Celebrity Makeup Artist, Max May as their new Makeup Ambassador in attendance on the day. A fitting location overlooking the iconic
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02. MAX MAY AND LISA CLARK 03. MICHAEL BROWN 04. MARK THOMPSON, MANAGING DIRECTOR, TELLS THE MILESTONES OF NUDE BY NATURE’S DECADE
05. ICY LING AND NATALIE DESU 06. MAX MAY, NUDE BY NATURE AMBASSADOR 07. LEANNE PARODI – HEAD OF MARKETING ANZ, NUDE BY NATURE
08. STEPHANIE BAILEY AND MICHELLE CROSSAN – SOCIAL MEDIA QUEENS
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Bondi Beach, guests at the event were treated to champagne and cocktails on arrival, a custom menu incorporating Nude by Nature’s natural ingredients and a giant celebratory birthday cake as the finale. Each guest took away the newest limited edition launches from the Nude by Nature 10th birthday range, plus an exclusive preview of the new Creamy Matte Lipstick launch on counter in May. The party guests’ who’s who: Jesinta Franklin, Max May, Elle Ferguson, Lisa Clark, Jade Tunchy, Madeline Cowe, Michael Brown, Rowi Singh, Chloe Barry Hang, Shannon Lawson, Caroline Growth and Paula Joye.
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OUT & ABOUT
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SEPHORA EXCLUSIVE BRANDS SHOWCASE Sephora celebrates its exclusive brands with regular expo-style events attended by an invited audience of beauty media. The draw is not just discovering new brands and product launches but to meet many of the founders. Flying in from the US, the UK or maybe Asia, these brand creators tell the story from their hearts. BYBI
Elsie Rutterford and Dominika Minarovic co-founded a cruelty-free, vegan, ethic boxticking skincare brand in the UK that they describe as CLEAN beauty. Bybi skincare began as a blog about the girls mixing up skincare from food ingredients in their kitchen. “It’s less about money, more of a mindset and taking ownership of your own beauty”, says Elsie. “With the food movement we understand labels and we translated that into beauty. The efficacy of natural ingredients transformed our skin. We struggled to find a natural brand that spoke to us as mainstream people; not just in a niche setting. There was a disconnect. “We decided to created a brand that offered amazing ethics, spoke the millennial language and was priced in the $20-$50 middle market that’s also accessible to Gen Z”. Bybi launched in Sephora on March 20th, 2019. Brands it sits with are the likes of The Ordinary, Pixi and Drunk Elephant. The streamlined 10 SKU lineup brings skincare essentials to store. With an in-house chemist, the decision was a no-brainer to exclude water which merely dilutes the formulation, preferring waterless or floral waters in the mix. Balms use fruit wax, the glass is recyclable with ‘labels’ printed directly onto the glass, sugarcane bio plastic tubes and an ethical sourcing commitment all add up to a brand that’s making a statement of conscious values that is integral to the company.
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ZOEVA
Lisa Kasper - Zoeva – showed two new collections: Heritage - reflecting the shades of creator, Zoe’s Greek background and culture; and Melody – playing on the transitions of light. Hero items are the eye crayons which are waterproof and stay in place through sweating and modern life, and the lip glosses with new flexible applicator. KOPARI
It’s not just about the coconut at Kopari, it’s ALL about the 100% pure coconut oil that’s sourced through family farms known to the founders, in the Philippines. The highest quality 100% pure, cold pressed coconut oil is literally fresh from the farm and in that form it is the hero SKU. “It’s how we started”, says Kim Kopari. Favourites now launched are the Coconut Crush Scrub and Coconut Body Glow. A deodorant has just launched at the prestige positioning of $25. VOTARY
London-based Votary sits at the higher end of beauty oils, priced over $100 and adored for their efficacy in creating the smoothesttouch face and body skin and clarity of tone. Understanding the importance of knowing what’s in your skincare, Votary is 100% fragrance free, allergy tested and imbued with actives and botanicals. New is the Superseed Nutrient Cream, $130
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which moisturisers and blurs the facial skin. Layered on at night it works as a sleep mask. “Just wipe off the residue in the morning”, says Sneha Gupta, SHAPR, for the brand. INDIE LEE
Indie Lee is a ‘one to watch’ brand. It caught the attention of brand investors Ancora Holdings who provide the business structure to grow the brand like a ‘big guy’. Ancora is the brainchild of Nicky Kinnaird who founded Space NK in the UK – one of the world’s first niche beauty retailers and Lori Perella Krebs who has senior level connections around the world in stores and business. Indie Lee is a clean beauty brand in the affordable luxury space “$49-ish is the sweet spot”. Indie speaks from a place of having survived a brain tumour and surgery and finding the health benefits of clean health. “I found my mission to create a platform to empower others to live their healthiest life, whatever that means to them”. Just launched are the Daily Vitamin Infusion Serum/Oil and the Daily Skin Nutrition Serum/Oil. NUDESTIX
Jenny Frankel, co-founder of NudeStix with her daughters, says the brand particulary appeals to Gen Z, “who are saving everything…AND the world. Ally,
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OUT & ABOUT
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THE SMALL WALL STANDING FOR AN IMPORTANT CAUSE
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my 14 year old tolerates only zero waste and sustainable ethics. Millennials are into wellness but it’s the younger generation which is fiercely changing the world with ethics and values and purpose”. Noting the Pantone colour of the year is Living Coral, Jenny is in with the anticipated trend for this warm, flattering shade, with Coral Blush which “looks beautiful on everyone” and is multi-tasking: eyes, cheek, lip. The applicator is a brush on one end that twists off for washing. FRESH
Originally launching with beautifully wrapped Sugar soaps, the Sugar Body Polish in 1998, firmly placed Sugar as core to the company. New on counter is the Sugar Lip Treatment in Orchid, inspired by the flowers on the Mediterranean island of Ibiza. There’s a Mint variant which freshens the mouth. Infused with menthol it releases a mint aroma when the lips are pressed together. Joy Yong – Brand Manager says Fresh is also famous for its masks, leading the way with its iconic real rose petal infused mask.
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01. ELSIE RUTTERFORD AND DOMINIKA MINAROVIC - BYBI
02. LISA KASPER - ZOEVA 03. LORI PERELLA AND INDIE LEE - INDIE LEE 04. KIM MAGEE AND AJA PIRO-IBRAHIM - KOPARI 05. SNEHA GUPTA - (SHAPR) VOTARY 06. KATIE HOWARD, SOPHIE MARTINS AND JACQUI CANTURI - FRESH
07. BELLE JACKSON – NATIONAL EDUCATOR, ROGUE BEAUTY AND LUCY BROOKS (PR)
08. LEANNE TAY – ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE FOR
Earlier in the year, Burt’s Bees unveiled a new mural on Sydney city’s York Street as part of their Bring Back the Bees campaign. Created by acclaimed street artist, Mulga, the eye-catching artwork featured bees in distress and showed the key foods we’d miss in a world without bees. To pledge support towards the bees, supporters can pick up a limited edition #BringBackTheBees lip balm from selected pharmacies. For every limited edition lip balm sold, $1 will be donated to the Wheen Bee Foundation, an Australian nonprofit organisation that raises money for bee research. 01. BURT’S BEES MURAL ON YORK STREET SYDNEY
02. THE FUND-RAISING STRAWBERRY LIPBALM
BEAUTY BLENDER
to tame the cuticle for smoothness and a lightweight feel. Next Level volumizing spray is heat activated with a hairdryer. Formulated with naudic cotton it plumps the hair leaving it soft and mouldable to create volume. BEAUTY BLENDER
Beginning life as a makeup sponge, Beauty Blender is now a cosmetics brand. Launching a Foundation has now lead to a Primer to complement. There are three different types. Leveller minimises pores; Opal Essence hydrates normal to dry skin and Selfie Shield is SPF38 in a dry oil.
IGK
Hair care and styling with innovative formulations and fun names is where IGK hits goals. Take Cry Baby – a new anti frizz serum, it penetrates from inside out
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OUT & ABOUT
01. 01. TEAM LA PRAIRIE 02. LORI DE LAURENTIIS – RETAIL MANAGER, VIC,
5-STAR CONFERENCE FOR LA PRAIRIE La Prairie’s Beauty Advisors across Australia and New Zealand counted down the days for the annual Beauty Advisor Conference held on the 13th – 16th of January. Each Beauty Advisor flew to Sydney and was indulged with a 5-star accommodation experience at Sofitel overlooking Darling Harbour. The conference began with a surprise water taxi across the harbour at sunset to Sydney’s ultimate iconic fine dining restaurant – Bennelong, for a luxurious Gala dinner. There, Beauty Advisors sipped on French champagne as they enjoyed a delectable three course menu, and then danced the night away in their gowns with X-Factor Australia contestant Nathaniel and DJ Demi Bryant. Acknowledgement and awards were given to Beauty Advisors who were celebrating milestone years with the company, as well as Beauty Advisor and Store of the Year winners. The second day of conference was filled with the excitement of new product launches and luxury training exercises presented by Belinda Besant, National Training & Events Manager and Ai San Beaumont, Regional Marketing & Public Relations Manager. Rosi Fernandez, Managing Director of La Prairie Australia and New Zealand, congratulated Beauty Advisors for their successes and thanked every single one for their contribution to the company’s successful growth. With absolute enthusiasm, the whole conference room toasted to a successful year and for the year to come.
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SA AND WA; MICHELLE (JIYE) KIM – BEAUTY ADVISOR, DAVID JONES ADELAIDE CENTRAL PLAZA; ROSI FERNANDEZ – MANAGING DIRECTOR, LA PRAIRIE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND; AND CAROL WILSON – COUNTER MANAGER, DAVID JONES ADELAIDE CENTRAL PLAZA. CAROL AND MICHELLE WON LA PRAIRIE COUNTER FOR 2018
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BEAUTY ADVISORS’ FEEDBACK FROM CONFERENCE 2019
“The gorgeous venues, the amazing food and the attention to detail were all unforgettable, but the thing that impressed me most was the warmth and friendship that was extended by everyone. I felt the love! I still have to pinch myself every now and then that I am working for this truly amazing company. I am back at work today and I can guarantee you it will be with a spring in my step and a massive smile on my face. Thank you and your amazing team so very much, not just for the fantastic conference, but also for being so inspirational and motivating!” – Brenda Lucius, Traveller at Christchurch, New Zealand
“Thank you to Rosi and the team at head office for another brilliant conference, best yet! Now fully charged - we can’t wait to smash our target for 2019. Luxury all the way!” – Lisa Massarotto, Claremont Quarter, Perth “It was an absolute privilege to attend this year’s conference in Sydney. A Gala dinner at Bennelong in the iconic Opera House! The attention to detail was second to none. On Day Two we discovered exciting new launches, and how at La Prairie ‘Luxury is our Legacy’. Thank you Rosi Fernandez for being such an inspirational leader. We return to our counters re-energised and look forward to implementing what we have learned over the past few days. Working towards more growth, success and luxury.” – Anna Jaza, Dufry Melbourne Airport.
OUT & ABOUT
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A GOOD NIGHT WITH YTTP
INNISFREE OPENS IN SYDNEY
Youth To The People clean skincare launched its latest product to media with a visit from the California-based founders, cousins Greg Gonzalez and Joe Cloyes, chitchatting their way through the media party telling the story of their personal journey to here. The pair introduced new night-time Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask. Exclusively available in Australia at Sephora. This rich and creamy overnight mask is packed with mega-hydrators including squalene, hyaluronic acid, glycerine and betaine to plump the skin and seal in hydration during sleep. Infused with antioxidant-rich superberries - Maqui, Goji, Acai and Prickly Pear – the formula is boosted with THD Ascorbate, a unique form of Vitamin C, that is 50x more potent than L-Ascorbic Acid, to deliver a healthier, more radiant complexion by morning. RRP $59.00.
Korean beauty brand - innisfree has opened its first retail store in Sydney at Queen Victoria Building, with Pitt Street Mall (in the former Nespresso site) and Chatswood opening as we speak, and a fourth Sydney store on the cards for this year. The offer? The highest quality skincare and lifestyle products from Korea’s No.1 selling beauty brand with naturallyderived ingredients, personalised makeup, and a nature-inspired, immersive retail experience. With a 70-year heritage from the founder’s grandmother creating beauty in her kitchen, the 3-generations-old brand today is owned by global beauty giant, Amore Pacific who is steadfastly building innisfree with Green Life ethics, environmental responsibility and Fairtrade agreements. Caroline Dunlop – President Amore Pacific (Aus/NZ and Singapore) hosted a beauty media store visit along with her team: Brian Jeong, innisfree Australia’s General Manager and Nikki Novakovic – PR & Marketing Manager, Innisfree. The Sydney, innisfree store offers over 650 products across skincare, makeup, body care, hair care and home fragrances as well as a selection of beauty tools with products priced from $2.00 to $63.00.
THE BACK STORY
Born into a family immersed in the beauty industry, cousins Greg Gonzalez and Joe Cloyes, spent their childhood entrenched in their grandmother, Eva’s, esthetics company. As a pioneer of botanically based skincare in America, Eva was one of the first to bring clean, naturally derived skincare into a serious esthetic treatment setting, even opening the first Advanced Skin Institute in the US, and assisting in the creation of the
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curriculum for the California State Board of Cosmetology. “She is a true inspiration,” says Greg. Joe & Greg credit a modernised version of their grandmother’s passion for beautiful skin and a healthy lifestyle as the inspiration that drives Youth To The People. 01. YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE TEA - MEAGHAN FLAHERTY, BRAND MANAGER, JOE CLOYES CO-FOUNDER, GREG GONZALEZ, COFOUNDER AND JAMIE GONZALEZ, STRATEGY, PLANNING AND DIGITAL MANAGER
02. YTTP – THE PRODUCTS 03. ANGELIQUE HOGAN – HEAD OF EDUCATION, SEPHORA
04. BRIT DAISY, GREG GONZALEZ, KISHAMA MERIDIAN, BAM ITS JOANNE, ELLESE CHLOE, KATRINA CHAN
05. RUBY GOLANI, ZAHRAH ALIYAH, JOE CLOYES FOUNDER YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE, TESS SCHLINK AT BEAUTICATE AND NATALIE LUCAS
01. INNISFREE’S SYDNEY QVB STORE 02. CAROLINE DUNLOP – PRESIDENT, AMORE PACIFIC WITH BRIAN JEONG – GM AUSTRALIA
03. ESPRIT’S ANDREA WITH INNISFREE’S NIKKI 05.
NOVAKOVIC - PR & MARKETING MANAGER AND BRIAN
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OUT & ABOUT
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BODY SHOP CELEBRATES INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY Shannon Chrisp, Marketing and Corporate Responsibility Director at The Body Shop invited a group of influential women to lunch to celebrate International Women’s Day and Body Shop’s 25 years of community trade shea butter from Ghana. She opened with: “Our community trade shea butter partnership empowers 640 women and helps fund community projects that benefit 49,000 people every year”. Hostess for the event, another woman of influence, Tash Sefton introduced four inspirational speakers who moved, entertained and informed the audience of their area of work and their style of leadership and influence: The Hon. Julie Bishop MP, Australia’s first Foreign Minister; Dr Susan Carland, author and academic; Antoinette Braybrook, CEO of the Aboriginal Family Violence Prevention and Legal Service, Victoria; and Dr Chantel Thornton, Specialist Breast Cancer Surgeon. Today is about celebrating women without any division, with a group of speakers who have achieved amazing things, says Chrisp. “Body Shop is a brand that is run with women at its heart. Anita Roddrick, our founder was unconcerned about the zig zagging of corporate business - they zigged we zagged. She was outraged by men creating beauty products that preyed on women’s insecurities. She was disruptive. Through her openness and collaboration, people were drawn to her rejection of traditional values. She pioneered the view that business is a force for good. Anita developed community trade partnerships, helping to support the livelihood of the source of these incredible ingredients. The Body Shop is a feminist brand - Anita was clear about this - we will be more vocal about creating equal opportunities for women and girls - with values of love and care”.
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AMPERNA ACCOLADES AND AWARDS
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01. INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY GUESTS OF THE BODY SHOP
02. JULIE BISHOP SHARES STORIES OF HER POLITICAL LIFE
03. DR CHANTEL THORNTON DEMONSTRATES A BREAST CANCER SELF-CHECK WITH MODEL, JULIE BISHOP
04. SHANNON CHRISP AND ALI CAMPBELL, THE BODY SHOP, TASH SEFTON – THEY ALL HATE US AND ALEX JERVIS – THE BODY SHOP
AMPERNA® is an Australian skincare brand committed to creating active products specifically formulated for sensitive skin. Chatting with Kiri Yanchenko, the founder, the story is of a personal journey. Some years ago, Kiri found herself struggling with acne for the first time in her adult life. Sparked by underlying health issues, her skin went from normal to unbearable almost overnight. So began Kiri’s search for a solution that worked. With the help of a likeminded chemist, Kiri spent the next few years researching, testing and developing the optimal skincare solution. After much back and forth, the pair finally uncovered the perfect set of formulas. Amperna skincare is holistic and practical, driven by Kiri’s deep understanding of what women really need from their skincare range. She’s combined simplicity in a range with ground-breaking science so the products contain only the necessary ingredients plus active ingredients. “Our formulas include a probiotic complex, glycolic acid and vitamins B and C. We are dedicated to creating simple yet effective products that help rebalance and transform the appearance of skin. We understand just how important healthy skin is to both our physical and emotional wellbeing”, Kiri tells esprit. “Glow-inducing skincare doesn’t need to be complicated or compromise your values. Our formulas are simple and straightforward, containing only the necessary ingredients with skin-changing actives. We test on real people in the real world”. And customers are voting with their purses & voice: Amperna Ultra Gentle Soothing Cleanser, awarded Highly Commended in the Nature & Health 2019 Natural Beauty Awards; Best Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin in the Byrdie Curated Beauty Awards 2018. Testimonals say: “It’s easily the best skin care I’ve ever used!” and then go on to tell their personal skincare story and their experience with Amperna. 01. ESPRIT’S ANDREA WITH KIRI YANCHENKO, FOUNDER OF AMPERNA SKINCARE
CHLOE MORELLO’S BROW KIT COLLAB WITH BENEFIT Benefit Cosmetics and Chloe Morello introduce Chloe’s Brow Wardrobe, a limited edition customised brow kit designed by Chloe herself. Brows are big business - the category is currently growing at +8% - with beauty influencers playing a significant role in the hype. Synonymous with brows, Benefit global saw an opportunity to work with ten of the world’s top influencers to create their own custom brow kits. Chloe is one of Australia’s leading beauty creators with an amassed following of over 3.6 million. For the past seven years, millions of viewers have tuned into her makeup tutorials week after week, so it’s fair to say she knows a thing or two about beauty – and brows. She was the clear partner choice for Benefit Australia. Chloe says: “Brows are one of our most defining facial features and should not be underestimated. There’s a lot to consider including shape, colour and texture which can all be switched up depending on how you feel, or the occasion. My secret is layering pencils, powders and gels to create different looks, which is exactly what I want to inspire people to do with my kit”. Chloe’s top tip: “Use a light hand to build product slowly and don’t accidentally apply too much!” Pictured above: Chloe’s Brow Wardrobe includes her five brow must-haves; Fool Proof Brow Powder, Precisely My Brow Pencil, Ka-BROW (mini size), High Brow Glow, Gimme Brow+ and a tool. RRP $89.00 (value $224) - from Benefit retailers nationally – Myer, Sephora, Princess Polly and Adore Beauty.
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OUT & ABOUT
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LOVE A FLUTTER – ARDELL REMY LASH
DERMABSOLU ANTIAGEING...SENSITIVELY!
Ardell Lashes has celebrated the launch of their latest premium lash range, the Remy collection, along with their new DUO 2 in 1 Lash Adhesive. Christopher Hanna’s Bridge Lane Bar hosted a mix of media, influencers and MUAs, including Michael Brown, Mia Connor, Maria Yousif, Sarah Laidlaw, Sarah Dowd, Natasha Bowling, Andriana Chidiac, Kaesha Ann Grauag, Ash Menin, Paige Craswell and Stephanie Bailey. All attendees were also treated to Ardell lash applications by Samantha Lee MUA, and Christopher Hanna Salon gave GHD curls to those wanting some extra glamour during the evening.
Avène’s latest innovation in skincare, DermAbsolu combines skin benefits for mature skin and clinical dermatological results to encompass those with sensitive skins. Media were briefed on the launch at La Porte Space, with media personality, Deborah Hutton as guest of honour. In a Q&A Deborah talked about her tips on how to age gracefully, the nude cover she did for AWW after her 50th birthday, and how she looks after her skin. She will be starring in a digital campaign for the range. Coming from the heritage of parent company – Pierre Fabre’s laboratories (think Avène, Klorane and Dexeryl), and more than 20 years of – dermatological expertise for sensitive skin, Eau Thermale Avène laboratories’ DermAbsolu promises bestin-class formulations for visible, agerewinding results. Focused on restoring firmness and vitality to mature skin while fighting sagging, the textures feel luxurious yet gentle and the highly concentrated formulas deliver visible, long lasting results without the slightest compromise in comfort for sensitive skin types. The range comprises four products – DermAbsolu Recontouring Serum, DermAbsolu Defining Day Cream, DermAbsolu Comforting Night Balm and DermAbsolu Youth Eye Cream – each responding to the skin’s varied daily demands. Key innovations and ingredients were presented – see pages 24 & 25 for more details.
01. PROFESSIONAL APPLICATION: ARDELL’S GORGEOUS REMY LASH
01. DEBORAH HUTTON – COMMENTATOR AND MEDIA FRIEND
02. SIGOURNEY CANTELO - BEAUTICATE AND MAXINE GRAY
03. AVÈNE CELEBRATES THE LAUNCH OF DERMABSOLU
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OUT & ABOUT
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LOVE BEAUTY AND PLANET Unilever is meeting customer demand for environmentally responsible beauty by creating Love Beauty and Planet, a vegan beauty brand. The multinational’s first brand creation in ten years has sustainability at its core and embedded in every product in the range from how the ingredients are sourced, to how the bottle can be recycled after use. Love Beauty and Planet is committed to delivering great beauty results whilst also showing commitment and love for the planet by being accountable for and working to reduce its carbon footprint. This is achieved through end-to-end accountability in its value chain, starting from how the raw materials are grown, all the way to how the product is disposed of after use. Beauty media heard the brand development story through an expert panel discussion, experiencing the beautiful new range firsthand and learning how #smallactsoflove really can make a huge difference for our planet, over a plant-based brekkie at Sydney’s Acre Eatery, Camperdown.
CREED MASTERCLASS
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The Love Beauty and Planet line includes five artisanal blends of nourishing shampoo and fast-rinse conditioner, four fragrant body washes and three indulgent body lotions, all made with responsibly sourced ingredients and ethically sourced essential oils. The unique fast-rinse conditioner technologies are individually developed for specific hair types, meaning that these conditioners don’t just rehydrate and replenish your hair, they help you save water too. Vegan formulations and bottles are made of 100% post-consumer recycled plastic and are 100% recyclable, for those who want to feel and look great, while supporting love for the planet. Available in Woolworths, Big W, Coles and Chemist Warehouse stores nationwide now - RRP $8.99 - $14.99. The Love Beauty and Planet range spans 17 products across five different variants see website for more info:https://www. lovebeautyandplanet.com/au/home.html
Creed has launched an exclusive fragrance masterclass offer for customers being held at their brand’s Australian flagship boutique in Sydney’s Cross Street, Double Bay. With a 260-year history as a fine French fragrance house, Creed’s story is a truly fascinating journey…and then there’s the history of the fragrances themselves. A truly bespoke experience, the masterclass comprises a one hour intimate experience where guests begin with an intimate history of the distinguished Creed house, famous for creating scents for the most celebrated individuals in modern and historic times. Understanding the history of acclaimed fragrance author Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World and his uniquely developed Fragrance Wheel, guests then learn how to recognise and distinguish between scents and how to determine their own signature fragrance. Creed’s Australian flagship not only offers the classic collection of fragrances for which the house is known, but also exclusive and limited edition products including Rose Impériale, Love in White Summer, Les Royales Exclusives, the Acqua Originale collection, travel atomisers and Creed Bath and Body. Creed masterclasses are by appointment with a minimum of two guests per class at a cost of $99 per person. Guests receive champagne on arrival with the cost redeemable on any Creed fragrance purchased on the day. For more information, phone 02 9362 3021 or visit www.creedperfume.com.au. 01. MICHAEL MARZANO – AGENCE DE PARFUM’S NATIONAL EDUCATION MANAGER
01. EXPERT PANEL LINE-UP – ELIZABETH MCLAREN (LOVE BEAUTY AND PLANET), DAVID JONES (UNILEVER), NATALIE ISAACS (1 MILLION WOMEN), ROBERTO LIEVANO (GIVAUDAN AUSTRALIA) AND TIM SILVERWOOD (TAKE 3 FOR THE SEA)
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02. LOVE BEAUTY AND PLANET 03. ELISE WILSON - CATEGORY BEAUTY EDITOR – BAUER
OUT & ABOUT
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WELEDA SKIN FOOD With Weleda you can feel the love as you slather on the body creams and massage in the face lotions. Almost a century ago Weleda was founded on biodynamic farming principles; they looked after the social elements that matter to people and built relationships with the farmers to ensure ethical sourcing. Weleda’s membership of The Union for Ethical BioTrade is dear to the company’s heart as one of only two beauty companies who have accreditation to belong. Skin Food is a hero body treat, now expanded into a range in response to customer demand. Beauty media were hosted at The Healthy Chef in Surry Hills, where they were introduced to the 4-product line-up by David Johnston, MD Weleda Australia. Now we can choose from original Skin Food (for very rough and dry skin), and three new options: Skin Food Light – a light, quickly-absorbed lotion that brings immediate comfort; Skin Food Body Butter – a whipped butter consistency for all-over comfort in a vegan formula (organic shea butter and cocoa butter) and Skin Food Lip Balm – intensively nourishing for lips. Liezel Barnard, Naturopath & Trainer Weleda Australia talked media through the key ingredients of rosemary, pansy, chamomile and calendula alongside sunflower seed oil, lanolin and beeswax, which nourish skin from head to toe. All Skin Food products are 100% NATRUE certified natural and dermatologically tested.
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DERM ROLL FOR CERA VE!
ARDEN’S PROGRESSIVE MOVE WITH PREVAGE
A cult brand around the world, CeraVe has emerged as the #1 dermatologist recommended moisturising brand for dry skin in the United States. Since the cult brand’s acquisition by L’Oréal in 2017, it has been gaining steadfast popularity among trusted dermatologists and consumers alike. The brand was developed with dermatologists after experts noticed that many skin conditions such as dry skin, eczema and acne all had one thing in common – a deficiency in skin ceramides and in turn, a compromised skin barrier. Tim Pocock - Marketing Manager, Active Cosmetics introduced beauty media to the brand and handed over to an expert panel - Dr Eleni Yiasemedes, Ksenjia Lukich and Cera Ve’s in-house derm expert, Rachel McAdam - who discussed the derm dramas that affect Australians as much as the global community. The advanced formulation of three essential, skin-identical ceramides with patented MultiVesicular Emulsion (MVE®) feature ‘slow-release’ delivery technology. Through this the products help to actively restore the natural skin barrier. The acclaimed range of hydrating skincare products is highly efficacious and non-irritating due to the fragrance free, paraben free and non-greasy formulations. The revolutionary formula of CERAmides with MVE technology led to the birth of the name CeraVe, which to date has made a difference to more than 10 million people’s lives in more than 30 countries across the world.
Peels have the power to dramatically transform skin. Historically, they have also been known to irritate sensitive skin, causing uncomfortable redness and flaking. Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment redefines skincare peels with a powerful four-week resurfacing regimen that gently exfoliates surface skin cells and enhances natural cell turnover. Philippa Curnow – National Education Manager, Elizabeth Arden hosted beauty media briefings to talk through features and benefits. Key is Arden’s breakthrough in peel technology: Polyhydroxy Acid, freshly mixed with the powerful antioxidant, Idebenone. The promise is to help jumpstart skin renewal and protect newly-revealed skin cells from environmental aggressors. Skin is fresh, glowing, and evenly toned”. Important for the peel customers is the usage – there’s a system of four progressively stronger formulas. Each ampoule contains a seven-day supply and every week the formula becomes more powerful - optimising efficacy and minimising the potential for irritation. The transformation is seen, day after day, week after week for visibly diminished signs of ageing in just four weeks. In store now: David Jones and Myer RRP $205.00. 01. PREVAGE PROGRESSIVE RENEWAL TREATMENT
02. PHILIPPA CURNOW – NATIONAL EDUCATION MANAGER, ELIZABETH ARDEN PRESENTS TO PHOEBE EWELL – POP SUGAR/BYRDIE AND ESPRIT’S ANDREA
01. WELEDA AUSTRALIA’S LIEZEL BARNARD, NATUROPATH & TRAINER AND DAVID JOHNSTON, MANAGING DIRECTOR WITH TERESA CUTTER, THE HEALTHY CHEF AND WELEDA AUSTRALIA’S KATJA PHEGAN, PR & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER AND CHARMAINE PICHLER, MARKETING MANAGER
02. 01. TIM POCOCK - MARKETING MANAGER, ACTIVE COSMETICS DIVISION
02. CERA VE
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INFLUENCER
INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer.
R E S C U M E AC A D E M Y ICY LING MICHAEL BROWN M A R Y Z AVAG L I A
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INFLUENCER
new BEAUTY DISRUPTORS Meet the
BY MARY ZAVAGLIA IN HOLLYWOOD
Here’s a taster of the beauty disruptors that the new beauty customer is craving. The world of beauty, in fact the very world we live in, has changed dramatically in the last 10-15 years. Today consumers crave discovery, they expect instant gratification and quick and easy applications. That’s why cosmetic companies are constantly coming up with products and delivery systems to keep up with these demands. Once, companies would create a product and then take it out to market. Now, they are developing products based on customer buying behaviours on-line and what is being communicated across social media platforms. Here are the key trends on my radar in LA that are taking over the beauty market right now.
Bespoke Beauty Products
In today’s Millennial-focussed era, with the apps and technology we have, it’s only natural that we want to have customised beauty products. We love to feel special and unique…and it really is all about ‘how will it work for ME!’ The concept is giving individuals the best possible bespoke beauty products and services by gathering data via web-based questionnaires and remote expert recommendations. One of my favourite on-line services, that might inspire retail brands, is e-Salon. It delivers to your door a customised blended hair colour for your hair type. It’s so simple. You create a profile with your hair history and your ultimate hair colour goal and voila! It’s all done for you at a fraction of the price of a salon visit. www.esalon.com
Doctors Formulas
Celebrities like Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Kim Kardashian, look to groundbreaking formulations created by leading dermatologists such as Dr. Barbara Sturm and Dr. Harold Lancer. Dr. Sturm is the woman behind the now famous “vampire facial” and “blood creams” that are the talk of social media and beauty gurus worldwide. She has spent the last decade
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01. E-SALON CUSTOMISED FOR CONVENIENCE 02. STURM SUPER ANTI-AGING SERUM 03. VIDA GLOW VITAMIN C RED ALGAE MARINE COLLAGEN SERUM
04. MINERAL AIR, THE REINVENTION OF MINERAL FOUNDATION WITH PRECISION APPLICATION
developing a line of molecular cosmetics in an approach that focuses on the use of our body’s own proteins to systematically counter ageing. Lancer’s philosophy for a radiant and smooth complexion is deep cleansing and polishing of the skin, combined with his plethora of lasers that he skilfully beams over the skin. His range of scientific skincare products fly off the shelves as “A-List” stars buy up multiple SKUs for fear of running out of their favourite “Lancer Glow” products. Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Aging Serum, $AUS505 www.mecca.com www.barbarasturm.com www.lancerskincare.com
Delivery Systems
One of the most unique delivery systems that I have come across is the new Mineral Air cordless airbrush makeup tool. It gives you a professional makeup application with a sheer, flawless makeup finish with no spills or mess. Mineral Air is a sleek matte black device with a removable reservoir head. This makes it easy to switch between foundation, blush and contour colours.
The micronised mineral spheres within the 4-in-1 hydrating foundation won’t clog pores and delivers superb coverage, yet the foundation feels weightless on the skin. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to conceal skin imperfections by simply adding a second layer. I am totally hooked! Check out the website www.mineralair.com to learn more. Another tool that is on my radar is Stila All Day Waterproof Liquid Eyebrow Pen. It creates the most natural looking brows as its precision tipped brush seamlessly creates feathery strokes that look like your own brows. There are six colours that can be used together to create the perfect colour match. I was lucky enough to have Stila Cosmetics, Global Executive Director of Creative Artistry, Sarah Lucero, create my beautifully shaped brows without any of the pain of micro-feathering and having to wait for any colour correction.
Non-Invasive Youth Boosters
A new generation of light beams, microcurrent, needling techniques and cellular revitalisers are giving women another noninvasive alternative to going under the knife to retain their youthful good looks. Skincare companies are pouring megabucks into bio-chemical research and development, to devise super creams, serums and tools to help women stop the clock. Fortunes are paid for the best ingredients and most advanced technologies. The frontrunners in this revolution are developing their prime anti-ageing elixirs from elements such as marine-extracted collagen, DNA from fish tissue and concentrated vitamin C. As the development of new treatments charges ahead, so does the battle for the consumers’ anti-ageing dollar which has ventured from aestheticians to cosmetic counters and supermarket shelves, giving you more choices than ever at a myriad of effectiveness and price. There are products ranging from as little as $20, to over $1,000.
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INFLUENCER
Who do
you think you are? By Icy Ling
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Whenever you accept a job, you will be given a title. Then you are assigned with a list of tasks. This list may ‘define’ who you will be in this position. Is that it? Are you happy with just being a BA, a counter manager, a makeup artist, a field coach, etc? Take myself as an example explaining my above mindset. When I first started my BA role at counter, I didn’t think my goal was just fulfilling my target. I never felt ticking boxes in my mind at the end of the day was enough. Alternatively, I reflected by asking ‘what else did I deliver to people that was valuable today?’ Working for a certain company, I saw myself as the brand ambassador from Day 1 at counter. As a Chinese living in Australia, I wanted to build a bridge between my clients and Chinese culture. Looking back at my successes (and my failures) in retail and being a makeup artist, I thank myself for forcing me to act in various roles beyond achieving my KPIs. Those ‘roles’ were like invisible halos. I wanted to shine. I don’t mean to encourage you to act arrogantly, talking about yourself all the time or ‘showing off’ how much more you know about skincare or makeup. Don’t make things up either. What I suggest is we all take some time to find our strengths and potentials. I know who I am, and I want them to know too - by showing people I am more than what my job title identifies, or defines, me as. Doing so, people will have more interest in spending time with you! You will also be selfmotivated to grow.
Do you think handing out spray cards at a fragrance counter is a tough job? How about: Take some time to smell the fragrance again? Even just one minute, allowing yourself to ‘have a moment’ with it. Close your eyes, ask yourself once again how do you feel? Bright? Sophisticated? Romantic? Great, you are building your own connection with it. Next is to think that you are an ‘angel’. Yes, don’t laugh. You are the angel, holding that bottle of fragrance, passing a spray card to a stranger’s hand - the angel of making that
INFLUENCER
“Who do you think you are?” It is a harsh question. But I have often asked myself ‘who do I think I am?’ I feel lucky that as a female, I was born to play different roles throughout my life – a daughter, a wife and/or a mum. What else? I am who I decide to be.
Work should be joyful. Everyday should be joyful. I don’t like being defined by people. I believe it is me deciding who I am. While I did use a lot of cosmetic floor examples in this article, I also want to remind you, this can apply to your life. Nobody can tell you who you truly are except yourself. Believe in who you are. What else can you be? What else can you bring? And that’s how we grow! Who do you think you are today? You are the better you!
...we should think ourselves being more than who we are.
person feel exactly how you felt about the scent. You are the angel, building a similar connection you had with the fragrance! Trust me, that person, can totally feel it. You and I all know a fragrance can change mood. An angel does that too. You might think I am joking. All I want to say is, we should think ourselves being more than who we are. If you want to linksell one more mascara to each customer today, be a ‘Mascara Queen’ for the day. Share your mascara application tips with every customer confidently – like a queen. If you are asked to tidy up the ‘backroom’, be a ‘Clean Master’ for a few hours. I understand not everyone loves cleaning. Being that clean master, you will find the hours pass much quicker. Brainwash yourself ! Why not? It’s much better than being brainwashed by someone else.
ICY LING
LET’S CHAT
Remember I am writing this column each issue in esprit Magazine Australia for 2019. If there’s anything you’d like me to write about, don’t hesitate to message me on Instagram: @icybutterfly. There…you can help me to decide on the topic for the next column. Chat in July! ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2019 |87
Reality with a real, live customer
esprit asks the BAs: “What is the topmost concern or topic that your customers ask you for your help and education with? How do you serve their need(s) and keep them loyal and gain their trust?”
If you don’t ask you don’t get – listening to your customers is way more valuable to you and the quality of your consultation than telling them all about your latest or new favourite products on counter. Asking them about their personal concerns and HEARING their answers creates a conversation in which you gain feedback that is gold dust because it’s reality – not what we think or hope might be her reason for being at your counter or in your aisle.
Anna Afoa SEPHORA STORE: DONCASTER CITY: MELBOURNE, VIC Sephora is known for its extensive Colour category; foundation, concealer, powder, contour… the list goes on! What we’ve noticed however is our clients are much more inclined to ask for Skincare or Wellness: from the topical ranges we offer to the ingestibles that are exclusive to our beauty playground. Our cast (store assistants) are well equipped to offer their expertise, and at the same time we know that the our clients are self-directed learners with the information overload available. There has been a noticeable shift across the beauty community with clients seeking clean and sustainable products from socially conscious brands. This client expectation is evident in the beauty industry and we see a notable demand throughout our big, shiny stores. Our clients are becoming more mindful in seeking out and asking for clean, cruelty-free, organic and vegan products in which we have a plethora of in store. In every client interaction, we strive to build a genuine connection through honesty
and transparency, asking questions, and getting to know each person. Clients are curious not only about the products themselves, but the brands’ history, values, and what makes them unique. Sephora is the beauty playground in which clients can test, try, and buy the perfect products unique to their style and preferences, and have a memorable experience every time.
Michaela Dare SEPHORA STORE: PITT ST CITY: SYDNEY, NSW One of the questions I get asked most frequently in store is “How do I get my makeup to stay on all day”. The longevity of makeup is a concern that a lot of makeup wearers struggle with. With the help of a few good quality prep and setting products, you really can achieve a flawless complexion that lasts all day. A few go-to products that work for all skin types that I always recommend to my clients are; Natasha Denona Magic AntiShine Flawless Face Base, Fasarli Unicorn Essence, Marc Jacobs Beauty Coconut Primer, Cover FX Perfect Setting Powder, Fenty Beauty Invisimatte Blotting
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Powder, Makeup Forever Mist and Fix and Kat Von D Lock-It Setting Mist. These products are easy go-to prep and prime products that never fail me! Everyone’s skin is so different, some lucky people only need to use one of the above products. I like my own makeup and the makeup I put on my clients to be bullet proof; so I always use a primer, powder and setting spray to lock in makeup!
India Hunt SEPHORA STORE: ERINA CITY: CENTRAL COAST, NSW The most common topic I am asked about at Sephora is definitely skincare. Clients are always wanting to better their current routine to ensure they are using the best products for their particular skin type and concerns. The only way to gain a client’s trust with skincare is to be completely unbiased with my recommendations. I need to be certain I am suggesting products that will help them achieve their own #skingoals and not mine. When I do this, clients see results and this is what will keep them coming back to see me at Sephora. The proof is in the results!
Gulash Mateli TOM FORD STORE: MYER CITY CITY: MELBOURNE, VIC At Myer Melbourne the topmost question is how to achieve the steps of the Tom Ford face, and how to flow the individual steps together in a timely manner for the CBD working-day life. I educate our customers with our products in a way that relates to their own situation and needs, starting with welcoming them to the world of Tom Ford and going through the Ten Steps demonstration with the unique Tom Ford techniques of application. Knowledge is power, and we want our customer equipped with quick tips about the application method, so they can achieve the same look when they return home. In the busy CBD store demonstration is the best way to build loyalty and we always invite them back in to ensure we are giving them the skills and knowledge to achieve their desired look. We gain our clients’ trust by providing excellent service and we keep our customers engaged with newness and ensuring we listen to their needs.
BEAUTY & THE BEST Nino Goncalves COTY LUXURY STORE: DAVID JONES QUEENS PLAZA CITY: BRISBANE, QLD The topmost concern that my customers have would be a fragrance not lasting on their skin. I help them by asking what they’re currently using and if they have a layering ritual. I educate them on the different types of fragrance families, fragrance strengths and how fragrance is very individual and it all depends on how it reacts with their chemistry. I also mention the importance of layering and how it helps with the longevity of the fragrance as it all starts in the shower by using a shower gel, followed by applying a body lotion or cream depending on the season (lotion for Spring/Summer and a body cream for Autumn/ Winter) finishing off the layering with fragrance. I’m very lucky that my Coty Luxury brands range body collections! Having these luxury collections build customer loyalty as they return time and time again to purchase various products throughout the year. I build trust and loyalty by being honest and informative, using my wealth of knowledge from decades of fragrance training and personal research. Customers always appreciate knowledge, honesty and care.
Hanh Nguyen ESTÉE LAUDER STORE: MYER CITY CITY: SYDNEY, NSW My customers’ topmost concern is about their skincare ritual and how to use all the skincare products now available. Customers come to me with many different types of questions but most of the time they ask: “I am not sure what my skin needs? What do you think?” “I am currently using xyz… products but I feel my skin is still quite dry so what is your recommendation?” “I am looking for new skincare, can you help me?” To service their needs, as an Estée Lauder Beauty Advisor, I always start with Beautiful Skin For Life, which is a useful questionnaire tool that helps me to find out more about what customers wish for their skin. Based on their answers I can address their issues, understand what they need and personalise their skincare range. I then recommend suitable products and demonstrate how to use the products effectively to get the best results for their skin. I am friendly and patient with all the customers when they come to my counter. Also after-sale follow ups are key to building a good relationship with customers. I have also noticed that the more honest you are with customers, the more they’ll trust you and the brand you’re representing.
Sharon Aspinall LA PRAIRIE STORE: DAVID JONES CITY: INDOOROOPILLY, QLD
Svjetlana Conn TERRYWHITE CHEMMART CITY: NEWSTEAD, QLD
The most common concern that I am asked about is the state of a client’s skin. I always start with a quick history – what is the concern, how long has it been going on for, what have you tried so far, has anything changed eg: new medicines, new creams or fragrances, routines? If there are new medicines then they are referred straight to the pharmacist for review. It’s also important to know what their current skincare routine entails. This gives us a good base to work with. Long term solutions as opposed to a quick fix, is my goal. Prevention is always a preferred option, so education on a suitable sunscreen for their skin type and lifestyle will give them antiageing and skin cancer prevention, and effective moisturising techniques will help control eczema outbreaks. The best way to establish loyalty is to be knowledgeable and honest in your recommendation, so know your products. The clients also love to hear about real experiences you have had with what has and hasn’t worked with yourself and other clients. And whenever possible I give a relevant sample of something that they may like to try and invite them to come back to give me some feedback good or bad. It’s all about being genuine in your delivery.
When the question “What concerns you most about your skin?” is asked during an initial consultation with a client, any type of discolouration of the skin common in ageing, is nearly always at the top of the list. To begin with I feel my clients need to have a basic understanding of how and why these discolourations have occurred before discussing any course of action. There is no need to be to scientific, but being knowledgeable on how the skin functions and why discolouration occurs as we age, not only gives my client a better understanding of what is happening with his or her skin but is a vital component to gaining their trust and confidence in me as a skin specialist before they take the next step. By giving realistic expectations and always being completely honest in what they can expect to achieve with the skincare regime prescribed, goes a long way in gaining the trust of your client. If you are truly passionate about skin and believe the course of action you are recommending will gain positive results, you will not only gain their trust but their loyalty as well.
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INFLUENCER
BAs are really
Fairy Godmothers
You’ve seen her walk through your store door, or up through the pharmacy aisle, phone in hand towards your makeup section, or your counter. She’s been following her favourite style leaders and her celebrity inspirations, and she wants a bit of it. She’s enthusiastic and she wants THIS look that Fave Celeb is sporting. How do you manage her expectations when SHE knows what she wants, and YOU know the customer is always right. And WHO knows what her skillset is and her budget. RESCUME ACADEMY’S RESIDENT MAKEUP ARTIST EXPERT, NIGEL STANISLAUS
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RescuMe Academy is the website that is supporting customers’ goals in achieving the look they want. From a range of experts sharing their indepth experience and demonstration skills, the online courses are created to upskill anyone and everyone to be the person they want to be. Across health, relationships, finances and beauty. RescuMe in-house Makeup Expert is the hugely personable and talented, yet very grounded, Nigel Stanislaus. As a globally working makeup artist with 20 years’ experience with real, live faces and by no means all of them young models, the tips, tricks and advice Nigel can share are savvy, relevant and help build that all-important relationship of trust…along with a nice slice of WOW! factor. “As a BA you are a Fairy Godmother. People want to discuss all sorts of things with you about how they look and feel and want… in their makeup, but if you feel she
TO TREND or NOT TO TREND. How do you manage the enthusiasm of someone wanting the latest fashion, come what may? First of all let’s look at who we are dealing with: a trend-savvy customer who says ‘I do this, and this and this’; or is it someone who hasn’t changed their hairstyle since Princess Di made her look famous. A trend is usually a range of items that create the Look. A trend is like a snack. They are not the nutritious main meal. They are fun and create a narrative, but they are not more important than good skincare and creating the best base, healthy eyelashes, and bright eyes. A fashion trend, say a plum matte lip or a winged eye, is the snack you add to the healthy foundation. Let’s look at the lash trend. If she really wants false lashes…and your friendship is going to be affected if you don’t agree, use a set of lashes that are the least vulgar. A small, light strip lash is perfect. If that’s too much for her skillset then introduce her to magnetic lashes. It’s an easy-to-do intro… like using a microwave instead of a proper oven. You always get a better effect with the real false lashes but you’ve got to help her build up her ability and see for herself. And always set her expectations. Introduce one item at a time that will not frighten your trend-seeking customer. Eyebrows can be a game-changer and are a trend that is now an essential mainstream. Reshaping the brows can bring a dated makeup into the modern world.
As a BA you are a Fairy Godmother. People want to discuss all sorts of things with you about how they look and feel
When customers see gorgeous Looks on insta and magazines and want to try this for their daily makeup, how do you help them create a 5-15 minute makeup? Fashion, beauty, hair that you see on insta or a Pintrest mood board takes a crew and maybe two hours to get anyone ‘media ready’. I explain this to them that there’s filters, photoshop and a team of professionals at work. It’s fun to have a goal and we can do a ‘baby’ version of the Look. We can play up parts of the Look – say if it’s Kim Kardashian’s lashes or a voluminous lip line – and we tell them that the result will not be the same as x,y or z… this is a serving suggestion. Try to avoid being negative. Give them an insight into the celebrity photo shoot. In my experience 90% of customers don’t know what goes on behind the scenes. There’s a whole professional machine behind the celeb Look. Giving them this insight into the world of makeup gives me, and you, credibility. I don’t think anyone should spend more than 20 minutes on their face. I can’t…I get bored! It’s very important to decide on a plan and remember practice makes perfect. Getting the foundation right is the only must-do start, then cheat away with short cuts. You need to stand still to do your eyes so that has to be done in front of the mirror. But you can cut corners by pressing on powder and applying lippie in the lift, or on the wing!
INFLUENCER
hasn’t got the skillset it’s your job to advise her. For BAs it’s a lot about emotional support. Even with my celebrity clients – a lot of them suffer from confidence issues. When a ‘stranger’ walks in to your store you must accept them as they are and never judge them before you advise them. Once you have a rapport going you can work with her to make the changes she’s hoping for and feels comfortable with. Then she will keep coming back to you. You’d never say: ‘Oh golly, what HAVE you done with your brows?!’ I liken it to if I was going in to shop at Victoria’s Secrets, I would want them to nurture me as a person, advising me on the best cut and fit and look so I leave feeling a better person”.
A 5-Minute Touch Up after eight hours at work is achievable. Always advise your customers to have a (cleansing) wipe in their bag. Wipe the centre of the makeup off so the middle of the face is clean. Reapply a fresh face of foundation. Then a beautiful lip colour. Lipsticks are the quickest and most dramatic way to transform the face. Use the lippie as a cream blush. A dusting of bronzer on the top of the nose and temples is a great refresher. And a cream pencil in the waterline of the eye opens it up again.
Product can pile up when you’re helping a customer create a new Look. How do you manage the sale as the dollars mount up? Decide with the customer what they are buying for and always give options and the modified selection. Instead of having three foundation products, go for an all-in-one powder press-on foundation or cushion foundation. Lipstick can easily double-up as a cream blush. If your customer likes false lashes but don’t have the time or money just use mascara – a fresh one, not clumpy. I always ask what they have already. It’s like in the kitchen – you have lots of ingredients already…when creating a particular dish, would you ask them to rebuy the items? No. Introduce her to your favourites for the Look you’re going for. A pharmacy brand can be an alternative to a designer brand. I suggest spending the most on foundation – it’s the most important. If skin looks bad …game over. If budget allows, primer is important – it helps to grab onto the skin for a longer lasting effect. Everything else can be mid-range. I try to explain things in “normal” language not makeup artist-speak.
YOU CAN LEARN EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BEAUTY AND MAKEUP FROM NIGEL VIA HIS COURSE AT WWW.RESCUMEACADEMY.COM AND CHECK OUT HIS ONLINE BE YOUR OWN MAKEUP ARTIST COURSE.
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Skincare Inspired
Make Up Makeup that makes us look, and feel, beautiful in our skin is the priority today. Looking fresh faced and knowing your makeup is working with your skincare goals is top of the list. Enter Revlon PhotoReady Candid™ Foundation and Concealer – a new complexion duo formulated for just that customer – inspired by skincare. Available at department stores and selected pharmacies nationwide – NOW.
Revlon PhotoReady Candid™ Foundation Developed as makeup inspired by skincare, Revlon PhotoReady Candid™ Foundation contains the antioxidant, anti-pollutant power of Vitamin E plus anti-blue light ingredients to help protect skin from the environmental stressors we encounter every day. It applies just like a moisturiser, blending beautifully into the skin and feels smooth and flexible in wear. Skin feels like it can breathe – just like skincare. The easy-action pump dispenser is premium-styled yet with a RRP $24.95 price tag. It’s available in 16 skin tone matching shades.
Revlon PhotoReady Candid™ Antioxidant Concealer
WHAT’S IN Both Revlon PhotoReady Candid Foundation and Revlon
Revlon PhotoReady Candid™ Antioxidant Concealer helps reduce the signs of ageing and prevent against the damaging effects of pollution. Infused with caffeine for a built-in pick-me-up the beautifully blendable and buildable, the formula camouflages undereye bags and dark circles. The oval doe-foot applicator mimics the shape of a fingertip – perfect for applying to the delicate under eye area. There are five skin tone matching shades, including a universal Banana shade – RRP $19.95.
PhotoReady Candid Concealer are powered by antioxidant, anti-pollutant and antiblue light ingredients.
WHAT’S OUT Both Revlon PhotoReady Candid Foundation and Revlon PhotoReady Candid Concealer kiss goodbye to parabens, phthalates, artificial fragrances, synthetic dyes and oils.
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INFLUENCER
M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S T O
To shade, or not to shade!
BY MICHAEL BROWN @MBROWN_BEAUTY WWW.MICHAELBROWNBEAUTY.COM.AU
Playing with makeup is so much fun – a big reason I started to dabble in makeup artistry in my late teens. That, and also the rewarding reactions you get when you enhance someone’s features, bringing out their best. In 2019 we are in a beauty era of choice in shade selection and with so much inspiration drawn from beauty influencers on Social Media, it can be hard for consumers to know when to add a new shade to their look, or what shades even suit them. SHADE CONSULTATION
Eye makeup in general is a very common request for advice… What shadows are best for my eyes? Should I wear Eyeliner? Are Smokey Eyes still in? What shades work best with my eye colour? Sound familiar? It’s important that when a consumer is seeking advice for a new eye makeup look, or maybe a slight update, we don’t go too far away from what they are applying at that time...what they are comfortable with. If someone is only using basic neutral shades and then you suggest applying ontrend orange and copper tones, it’s going to be a bit of a shock and most likely will not translate into a sale, which is a critical part of being a Beauty Advisor in retail. Your consultation helps you find out a bit more.
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Ask questions about the eye makeup the consumer currently wears (if any), when are they wearing it, what they like and don’t like about their look and if they have been inspired by any beauty images online that they might want to try. It’s important to gauge how adventurous they are with makeup as well as their personality for a successful result. SHADE RULES
You often hear: ‘There are no rules with Makeup’, but we all should know as experts that there are definitely certain shades that work better on certain skin tones and with eye colour. The typical taupe, brown and bronze shades are perfect for any skin colour, used as shading an area – usually making the area smaller and creating a hollow effect – whereas, lighter tones in the family are great to highlight and bring an area forward. THIS IS A QUICK GUIDE OPPOSITES REALLY DO ATTRACT!
• Blue Eyes – Anything warm, neutral and earth toned, olive green and gold. • Green Eyes – Slightly richer tones, copper, bronze, plum and navy. • Brown Eyes – Any colour opposite to brown, especially electric blue and turquoise green, and for neutrals, on the copper/bronze side of things.
Only add colour if the consumer wants to try something new, and it isn’t too far from the colour family they are already applying. Adding even the slightest new shade to their already existing makeup look, could be the lift they needed! SHADE APPLICATION
It is general standard application now to use a generic taupe/caramel/bronzer tone across the mobile eyelid as a base, especially within the socket area of the eye to cut in a crease, lift and structure the eye shape. This can be deepened as the look is applied, but it’s always best, NOT to use too much colour in the socket area and keep it neutral. • Add a brighter, or slightly coloured inner corner tear duct shade to lift neutral shadow shades. • Choose a brighter or metallic version of the base shades used on the eye and place on the central eyelid, this will capture light when eyes are moving for a 3-dimensional effect to the eye shape. • Use a coloured eyeliner on the lower waterline of the eye. This can brighten any look and one of my new fave shades for this is peach. • If bronze and neutral shades are your goto, try a brighter colour on the lower lash line to spice things up, or use a metallic colour in this area to add a new shade. Go on, give them your best shade!
KERRIE MOORE? By Nicci Herrera
I have never met a dull trainer in all my 25+ years in the beauty industry. The products I love and loved to share with my friends and family, and the brands I tend to endorse, are the ones I understand or can share interesting facts on…this all comes from training. Training is the most important part of the sales cycle for many companies and the stores that house the stock. My background has seen me in roles across all aspects of the sales side of the beauty industry: retail, professional, pharmacy, department store, college, TAFE, salons and spas even online…and there is one constant in all sides of this glamourous industry of beauty…and that is training! In my salon repping days, having a great relationship with my trainer was for me more important than my BF sometimes. Whenever I was down on orders or short of budget, sending a trainer to an account, briefed on what I was trying to close, would often get results. Trainers are the nurturers of our industry and quite often the happy bubbles we need to breathe in the tough retail landscape. Introducing our newest feature in esprit and our first guest…
INFLUENCER
Have you met... Have you met Kerrie Moore?
Nicci chats with Kerrie - National Sales Manager for McPhersons sharing a moment in her busy schedule HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE RETAIL BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
I started my career in beauty and retail more than 30 years ago. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR ROLE?
Everything!! My role allows me to travel to great locations across Australia and NZ. I get to work with amazing brands and meet amazing people. HOW MANY BEAUTY ASSISTANTS DO YOU TRAIN EVERY YEAR?
With our National Training Roadshows we have great attendance and can train up to 1000 Beauty Advisors a month. DO YOU HAVE A MOTTO YOU LIVE BY?
I have a few but my most recent is: “Life is what you make it!” WHAT GETS YOU OUT ON THE ROAD IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER?
I love winter! I may be one of few but I have always liked the cool weather...I love the fashion and I always joke my skin always looks better..lol! WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE THAT WAS EVER SHARED WITH YOU?
Don’t sweat the small stuff! WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE CITY TO VISIT WHEN TRAVELLING AND WHY?
Although I like to travel, because my role takes me away from home so frequently, I have to say Sydney. It’s always nice to be at home! WHAT’S THE FIRST THING TO GO OUT OF THE WINDOW WHEN YOU ARE TRAVELLING ON THE ROAD?
As much as I try to keep up my healthy lifestyle, it can often be hard. I would have to say diet and exercise.
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BRAND NEWS
DB BEAUTIES Makeup goodies have just launched from the Aussie-made DB Cosmetics (100% certified crueltyfree and vegan). Product standouts are: EYE LOVE IT 12 shade eyeshadow palette in two shade options - Spice Up Your Life & Keep It Neutral, chocolate-scented and in a mix of pan sizes (larger for highlighting and transition shades) in mattes and shimmers - RRP $17.99. MELODRAMA 10-piece brush set (pictured here) with pearlescent handles, cruelty-free brushes. Each has a unique format; liner, double-sided brow, eyeshadow, blending, crease, contour, fan, powder, tapered powder and foundation brushes. RRP $24.99. MIST ME SETTING SPRAY - four ultra-fine setting sprays (2 x shimmer, 2 x non-shimmer). RRP $14.99.
Tom Ford Private Blend intro Tom Ford Private Blend Collection has a delectable new perfume: Beau De Jour EdP, 50ml, $340.00. It’s a fresh, commanding fragrance of lavender, African rosemary, oakmoss, and green basil and wood.
Sisley blurs imperfections Sisley Blur Expert High Definition Makeup is a high-tech compact powder with innovative texture promising that alluring ‘flawless’ complexion effect. Cutting-edge ‘reflexshine’ technology gives a powder-like texture combined with a melting gel formula. It coats skin in a perfecting veil that reflects and diffuses the light for an ultra-radiant result. A universal shade suits all. RRP $115.00. On counter 28th April.
Jurlique’s famous Ltd edition hand cream Jurlique Fragrant Rose Hand Cream Limited Edition is one of Jurlique’s most iconic products. With purity, potency and integrity, this indulgently rich cream replenishes and deeply moisturises hands to restore smoothness, leaving them feeling velvety soft and beautifully scented. Jurlique captures the concentrated essence of pure Rosa gallica flowers from Jurlique’s farm in South Australia. Through an exclusive extraction process that harnesses their true power, the formulation leaves hands enveloped in a delicious sensorial experience. A natural fragrance that envelopes the senses, the signature sweet Rose scent evokes a soothing spa-like experience. The beautiful blend of fragrant Rose oils is designed to both indulge and awaken the senses. RRP 100ml, $59.00, on counter 20th May 2019.
Herbal Essences bio:renew Haircare giant, Herbal Essences bio:renew shampoo & conditioner range is for women to protect their hair against harmful free radicals from pollution’s damaging impact. Herbal Essences’ bio:renew formula is 90% naturally-derived, containing a powerful anti-oxidant and blend of Sea Kelp and Aloe that neutralise the damaging free radicals to keep hair feeling and looking great. RRP $11.99 per bottle. Herbal Essences is recognised by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) as a cruelty-free brand.
RIMMEL WONDER EYE OPENERS Rimmel Wonder’Luxe Volume Mascara and Wonder’Full Brow with Fibres are on counter April 1st. Wonder’Luxe Volume Mascara gives fuller and healthier looking lashes, without clumps. Infused with a blend of four caring oils, the ultra-volumising formula delivers thick and healthy lashes. In Black, RRP $20.95. Wonder’Full Brow promises full, plumped brows that stay put thanks to Rimmel’s new, a 24HR waterproof brow gel with fibres. Shades: Blonde, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, RRP $15.95.
Swisspers Paper Stem Cotton Tips Swisspers is reducing single use plastic one tip at a time with the new version of their much-loved cotton tips, now with a sustainably sourced paper stem. Made from a mix of sustainably grown wood and recycled paper with 100% cotton tips, the Paper Stem Cotton Tips are stronger and more rigid than plastic stems, giving more control. And they can be composted. The resealable bag packaging protects from moisture in the bathroom, uses 90% less plastic than a comparable plastic tub and can be recycled through Redcycle. RRP$2.99 available now from Woolworths
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New York City-based fashion designer Ulla Johnson and Bobbi Brown have partnered to create a limited-edition collection inspired by her effortless and ethereal designs. Celebrating the spirit of the Ulla Johnson and Bobbi Brown girl, each of the palettes is named for the designer’s beloved heroines and muses. Seeking makeup that reflected her design aesthetic, Ulla curated a capsule collection of sheer blushes and creamy highlighters, shimmery pastel eye shadows and a punchy lip colour perfect for creating a look that’s sweet and spirited. Included in the collection: Minou Eye Palette – RRP $70.00, Esme & Inez Cheek Palettes – RRP $65.00, Extra Lip Tint in Bare Sparkle – RRP $56.00 and Crushed Lip Colour in LouLou – RRP $46.00. Out April 21st.
Sisley Body super luxe Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge Concentrated Firming Body Cream is an anti-ageing body cream that combines the power of a serum, the comfort of a cream and delivers the results of a firming product while providing a sensory experience. The active ingredients act on the supporting tissues to help strengthen the dermal structure and visibly reduce skin slackening. For luxury lavishing moments - 150ml $410.00. On counter 12th May in selected David Jones stores nationally.
BRAND NEWS
Bobbi Brown & Ulla Johnson collection
COVERGIRL – BRING IT ON! Tapping in to today’s eager-forthe-outdoors combined with workout lifestyles, Covergirl Outlast Active Collection is created and formulated for the everyday athlete. It is sweat-proof and smudge proof and essentially moves with you when you work out. Great before, while and after a workout, says Covergirl. On counter 1st of April.
LANCÔME’S NEW LA VIE… La vie est belle en rose EdT is a modern interpretation of the original, featuring peony, as a symbol of joy. Offering a new take on freshness, its floral heart is the star of this EdT, while the famous iris and woody background that make La vie est belle such an iconic fragrance, has been lightened and enriched with a fresh floral bouquet. Powerful heady notes of bergamot and red fruits instantly hook you in, while the rose and peony accords have an irresistible luminosity. Two of the world’s Master Perfumers come together again to create a new masterpiece: Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion, it was a chance to give their shared love of the fabled peony a new expression, with their respective approaches resulting in a new and unique harmony that only they could create. On counter 31st March 2019. La vie est belle en Rose EdT 50ml RRP $120.00 and 100ml RRP $159.00.
It’s all in the brush Real Techniques’ new brush collections are Rebel Edge, Everyday Essentials and Sugar Crush – basically something for everyone! Designed by internationally renowned professional makeup artists and beauty vloggers, Sam and Nic Chapman, they feature newly designed brush handles and packaging for a more simplistic, cleaner design, without jeopardising quality or performance. Rebel Edge Trio Set – RRP $45.00. With cropped head for greatest control. Broad brush is cut for face, to blend powder foundation or bronzer. Fine brush, cut for eye, to precisely line eyes or sweep on powder shadows. Medium brush is cut for cheek, to dust on powder highlighter or blush. Everyday Essentials Set – RRP $69.00. This set has every look covered from start to finish with best sellers from the Real Techniques base, eyes and finish ranges combined. Ideal for face, cheeks and eyes, the set is designed to cover, colour and blend. Sugar Crush Miracle Complexion Sponge – RRP $18.99. Just like the original, but with extra sparkle - use damp for a dewy glow or dry for a full coverage with liquid, cream, or powder foundations and BB creams.
Estée Lauder’s Pure Color lippies AND peepers Estée Lauder Pure Color Desire Lipstick range is a lippie lovers’ dream – there’s 29 shades at RRP $60.00. Described as an intoxicating lip colour with a vivid laydown of pigment and moisture for exceptional comfort and intense colour payoff in one stoke. On counter now. Pure Colour Envy, Lip Care Collection preps the pout for colouring up: Sugar Lip scrub RRP, $45.00; Blooming Lip Balm, $45.00 and Lip Repair Elixir, $45.00. On counter April 14th.
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BRAND NEWS
PETER THOMAS ROTH MOISTURISER Bright & Plump moisturiser from Peter Thomas Roth Clinical Skin Care promises to help defy the signs of ageing with Hydrolyzed Collagen and THD Ascorbate, a scientific breakthrough ingredient 50 times more powerful than traditional Vitamin C. Packed with a concentration of 10% THD Ascorbate, this potent moisturiser is amplified by 3% Vitamin E and 2% Ferulic Acid to provide complete anti-ageing, firming and brightening benefits, and improve the look of uneven skin tone and texture.
Aveda Rinseless for hair Aveda introduces two new products for the hair: Rinseless Refresh Micellar Hair & Scalp Refresh, and the Heat Relief Thermal Protector & Conditioning Mist. The philosophy behind these is to encourage water conservation by skipping shampoos, and also aligns perfectly with Aveda Earth Month in April. Rinseless Refresh is formulated using micellar technology and naturally-derived styling polymers to instantly refresh hair and cleanse the scalp. Pictured here: Heat Relief (RRP $35.00, 100ml) allows for hair to be protected and conditioned from thermal styling without the need to wash hair and apply a leave-in treatment to damp hair. The dry mist also means there is no wait-time between prepping the hair and heat-styling.
Sweet Daisy A modern sheer floral twist to a sweet gourmand, Daisy Love Eau So Sweet blends the addictive and irresistible spirit of Daisy Love with an airy freshness. The newest Daisy fragrance opens with sparkling white raspberry that blends with crisp bergamot and crystallized cloudberries. A floral heart reveals itself through daisy tree petals and jasmine milk. Sugar musk and white iris woods deepen the base while maintaining a sweet and fresh finish. RRP 100ml $140, 50ml $110 and 30ml $80. On counter 19th May at Myer and rolling out to David Jones on 9th June.
Manicare’ Sonic Mini facial massager Manicare Sonic Mini Rechargeable Facial Cleansing Brush is a compact USB rechargeable cleansing device utilising sonic vibration. It is clinically proven to be more effective to remove impurities than by hand alone. It takes one minute twice daily to help achieve brighter, cleaner, healthier looking skin. The pack includes three replacement heads: Sensitive brush for gentle daily cleansing; Exfoliating brush for a deeper clean and Facial Massage brush to help stimulate circulation and absorption of masks, moisturisers or serums. RRP $49.95 at Chemist Warehouse, Priceline, Independent pharmacies and online at manicare.com.au.
SHEER TIFFANY Tiffany Sheer EdT is a bright and sparkling interpretation of the signature fragrance. Elegantly wrapped in notes of blackcurrant, vert de mandarine, and ylang ylang, Tiffany Sheer beautifully blends with rose oil and finishes with an iris base – the hero ingredient featured in all Tiffany fragrances. By worldrenowned Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier. RRP 30ml $99, 50ml $150 and 100ml $180 on counter 29th April 2019 from MYER and David Jones nationally.
Rimmel those eyes Wonder’Luxe Volume Mascara for fuller and healthier looking lashes, is infused with a blend of four caring oils in a formula that delivers lusciously thick and healthy lashes without clumping. In Black, RRP $20.95 (pictured here). Complementing this supercharged lash-look Rimmel has the product for full, plumped brows that stay put. Wonder’Full Brow is a 24-hour waterproof brow gel with fibres in Blonde, Medium Brown and Dark Brown – RRP $15.95. On counter now.
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