EDITOR’S LETTER Photo: Esteban La Tessa
E
arly most mornings, I walk. And one thing I’ve started doing recently is to take off my trainers for the last 200 meters to pad barefoot across the dewy grass of the oval. My friend, Shazzie, has done this for a while but I couldn’t be bothered to at first. But then I thought I’d give it a go…something to do with the look of bliss in her expression and that she stopped talking as she connected with the earth…and now I love it. The pleasure I get from tramping footloose through the waxy texture of cool, moist, morning grass puts getting up to the 5.30am alarm into the “I can do this” basket. It sets me up for the day with an open mind and little fizzes of potential inspirations. It puts a smile on my face, consolidating this as a new day of opportunities. Now on my walk, if Shazzie is not accompanying me, I listen to documentaries, science, history, biographies. They’ve got to fascinate me or they get the flick. Next! This morning I set off listening to Professor Robert Winston, of IVF fame, exploring the mind. For some of us we quip, “well that won’t take you long with my mind” but in truth of course studying the mind, and how the brain ticks, can be a life’s work. One segment of the documentary looked at the science behind having a new idea. With the subject – Prof. Winston in this case - wired up for the test, he acknowledged it is impossible to have an idea in such a clinical situation - but scientists say that a new idea is also classified as an original thought and you can observe the brain doing that by getting the subject to solve an optical illusion. With his head rubber-stamped to wires connected to various machines, the Prof
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What’s the Big Idea? gawped at a picture he described as “a load of black dots”. Some 30 seconds of staring and he had his ‘ah-ha’ moment and said he could see a Dalmatian dog amongst the picture of otherwise random dots. In just that one-fifth of a second flash of original thought the scientists could identify what an idea looks like when it happens in the brain. According to the research, there are times when we are more likely to have them than others. New ideas don’t happen in the noise of busy lifestyles. Day to day clatter and bustle might feed the brain with material but the idea comes when there is peace and quiet. Winston cited the examples of Newton having his lightbulb moment on the Theory of Gravity when he was lying in an orchard; Galileo worked out the theory of using a pendulum to mark time when he sat quietly in a church; and the structure of the atom was dreamed up by Neil Bohr as he was watching horses at a racecourse. We need time-out to let the mind give birth to the bright ideas that have been bubbling around behind the scenes. Be mindful of your own creativity. It is a delicate treasure as filament fine as a 1/5th of a second. The seed is sown. Your ideas could be innovations. They might be just a good idea and you’ll ponder, “why didn’t I think of that before?”…because you didn’t give your mind downtime and thus the opportunity to birth your idea. Give yourself a break to walk across the dewy grass, watch the clouds, smell the roses and let your lightbulb have its moments
A lightbulb moment and one thousand eight hundred and fifteen labour-of-love hours later Dimitri Webber has created a brand described by world-famous perfumery guru, Michael Edwards as an innovative move in Australia’s fine fragrance industry. In a work of pride and passion, Dimitri Weber – has developed Goldfield & Banks perfumes - local Australia-made with French perfumers based in Melbourne. “That’s his point of difference”, says Edwards. Talking about the range (see page 18) Dimitri is the personification of a bright idea come to fruition. Sarah Jean Lashes is another one (see page 16). Her false lash application method is a first to market and came out of Sarah’s personal experience and then... bingo, she got it! Bright ideas need backing and elbow work to come to market and that is literally how many start…heaving the boxes and bags to the local market, sweating the stalls…with shiny shelf space or even a counter in an uptown store in their founder’s dreams. And then there’s the Big Time: look at cheeky cosmetics brand Too Faced, founded in 1998 by two Estée Lauder brand Counter Assistants – Jerrod Blandino and Jeremy Johnson. It’s just been bought by Estée Lauder Companies which Forbes is reporting as its biggest ever deal, quoted at US$1.45bn (see page 18). That was a 1/5th of a second well spent! Take a hike! Hit the sack! Go chillax! That’s where the big idea comes from,
Come on down...
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51 JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
and extracts in E
ISSUE 51 JANUARY 2017
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YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY RIGHT NOW
THE APP EDITION SUSTAINABILITY FOR THE GREATER GOOD CUSTOMISED BEAUTY THE PEOPLE & PRODUCTS OF RETAIL BEAUTY
NEW Burt’s Bees®
SKIN NOURISHMENT RANGE
Contents. ISSUE 51 Snapshot
WITH ROYAL JELLY — Superfood for Your Skin —
KNOW YOUR OWN BUSINESS
APP PHARMACY TRADE FAIR | 5 Come and join us along with numerous beauty brands exhibiting and attending the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference and Trade Exhibition – the largest pharmacy conference and trade show in Australia
s. anced.
Front Cover Details Burt’s Bees’ origins in a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine in the US means royal jelly has long been a key ingredient for the brand because it’s one of nature’s most nutrient-rich substances. “Burt’s Bees has a very robust innovation pipeline, but we definitely didn’t want to lose the incredible benefits of royal jelly”, says Leia Berryman – Senior Brand Manager, Burt’s Bees. “Our new Skin Nourishment range is the perfect combination of the brand’s strengths - intense hydration and the anti-ageing benefits of royal jelly - which helps to create healthy skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines”. Nourished skin is radiant skin. The four products provide optimal anti-ageing results without any need to compromise, which is what women today are looking for. “The entire range is 99 per cent natural and formulated for normal/combination skin”, says Berryman. “All of the products - Skin Nourishment Foam Cleanser, Day Lotion SPF15, Night Cream and Eye Cream - have luxurious formulas packed with all three macronutrients - antioxidants, Vitamins B1, B2 and B6 and essential amino acids”. Managing Director Andrea Ferrari M: 0410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au National Sales Manager Nicci Herrera M: 0426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Digital and Social Media Manager Yasmin Border E: info@esprit-magazine.com.au Mailing address: 25 Cove Street, Birchgrove NSW 2041, Australia Design: The Defectors T: 02 9993 0450 E: esprit@thedefectors.com.au SUBSCRIPTION RATES $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in Esprit Magazine may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Esprit are not necessarily those of the publishers.
OUT & ABOUT | 42 Where we’ve been and what we’ve done
BURT’S BEES BRAND BUILDING | 10
5 MINUTES WITH… | 50
New ranges to build on 30% growth
brand
for Burt’s Bees with great-performing, natural products that work, in stylish packaging
CHEMIST WAREHOUSE | 52
Gina Liano – accessibility drives her
TREND | 12 Touch, feel, smell - beauty refocuses on Sensoriality and Experience
The conference that blew our socks off
HOT BUTTON ISSUE | 60 Sustainability – the big footprint matters in more ways than one
INDUSTRY NEWS | 14
BUSINESS | 68
Retail beauty round-up
Working smart
CAMERA SHY? | 30 No-way – selfie ready is made easy with today’s makeup
BEAUTY & THE BEST | 86 Beauty Advisors’ comments
MY JOURNEY | 89
MARKETING REPORT | 32 Customisation – taking things personally
INTERVIEW – COTY | 36 Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ, discusses
Rachel McAdam - Medical Relations Manager for La Roche-Posay
BRAND NEWS | 90 Head for the shelves!
Coty’s new brand ideology - Beauty Liberated
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Associate Editor
Business Features
ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to leading newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book - Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. She is the grooming editor of Men’s Style and won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.
ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.
MARY ZAVAGLIA The name Mary Zavaglia is recognised by women all over Australia as one woman they can trust to make them look and feel good. An authority in all facets of beauty reporting, commentary and direction, Mary is both an award winning beauty journalist and hair stylist. During her career she has interviewed some of the most elegant stars including Australia’s Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts, Miranda Kerr and Kylie Minogue as well as Hollywood stars such as Julia Roberts, Courtney Cox, Andie MacDowell and pop princess Fergie. Mary has built up a reputation as the beauty expert who will try anything once for the good of her readers. She investigates, questions, trials, travels and then reveals all.
AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www. ainsliewalker.com.
BRIGITTE BENGE Creating, building and sustaining profitable businesses is Brigitte’s focus and expertise. Specialising in the beauty industry is where her passion lies. Rarely are the two combined, she says. With a strong belief that businesses should be built from the inside out, Brigitte has changed the financial futures of hundreds of beauty businesses in Australia and New Zealand over the last decade. +61 (3) 9523 9549, visit www.creamsolutions.co.
KATE MORRIS
Expert Columnist
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adorebeauty.com.au Beauty junkie and e-commerce veteran Kate Morris, founder and CEO of adorebeauty. com.au, had her inspiration to start an online beauty store in 1999 at the age of 21. Today adorebeauty.com.au attracts more than 2 million visitors per year and has over 4000 products. Kate was awarded the Telstra Business Women’s Award for Innovation (VIC) in 2014, and was also Telstra’s Young Businesswoman of the Year (VIC) in 2010.
AMANDA STEVENS Amanda Stevens is a global thought leader on retail marketing, customer advocacy and the future of consumers. She’s a renowned speaker, having delivered presentations to over 500,000 people in 14 countries. Amanda is also a best-selling author of six books on sales and marketing. She’s the host of Retail Renegades, a 13-part online TV show on Business Blueprint TV.
MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer in Perth, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘Art’ of Make-up Artistry and in 2001 he landed his first role in retail cosmetics as an event make-up artist. Michael’s career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney in 2006 where he became a National Makeup Artist and Makeup Trainer for AUS/NZ. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him wide exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene, that when he went freelance in 2012, his journey was only at the beginning… Michael is now not only a Celebrity Makeup Artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as beauty voice at rescu.com.au.
Guest columnist
ALEXANDRA BLAKEMORE Alexandra Blakemore is the CEO and founder of French Navy, a boutique stationery and etiquette company, catering to the corporate, retail and private clients. She is also the co-founder of The Happiness at Work Program, a 30-day program devised to improve personal happiness and positively impact workplace productivity. Alexandra is a sought after commentator on etiquette, happiness and related lifestyle matters and has appeared across a range of national media. For more information visit: www.thehappinessatworkprogram. com.
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On a Natural High N EW R AN G E S TO B UI L D ON 3 0 % GR OW TH F OR B URT ’S B E E S By Elisabeth King
Buying a cosmetic or skincare brand for its natural credentials is only half the story these days. The natural and organic beauty market has evolved rapidly and products have to be effective, technologically advanced, innovative and ethical, in addition to having a luxurious feel.
Burt’s Bees has stepped up strongly to this new benchmark, offering great-performing, natural products that work in stylish packaging, says Leia Berryman, Senior Brand Manager, Burt’s Bees. “Consumer response has been fantastic. Burt’s Bees has experienced phenomenal growth of 30 per cent-plus over the past year, in comparison to 19 per cent for the natural category as a whole”. 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
LIP SE RVI C E ATTR AC TS YOUNG ER C USTO MER S A major success of this more contemporary and modern take is the lip sector. “Sales of Burt’s Bees lip products lifted 41 per cent following the introduction of our breakthrough Powerwing and innovations such as the 100% natural Lipsticks”, says Berryman. “Burt’s Bees is the number one natural lip brand in Australia”. Attracting new customers, especially younger ones, will continue to be a strong focus. The Powerwing really raised Burt’s Bees profile with Millennials, says Berryman. “Seventy five per cent of women see Burt’s Bees as a brand that helps to moisturise and hydrate. Our new Tinted Lip Oil not only meets this widespread consumer need, it also taps into the on-trend oil format to build brand credibility with younger consumers. Non-sticky and 100 per cent natural, the six sheer-coverage shades nourish the lips and the click-dose lip brush wand is a first in premium natural beauty for on-the-go results”. Further proof that Burt’s Bees is going up against mainstream brands, in addition to naturally-derived competitors, are the new
Gloss Lip Crayons. Gloss, not gloop, is back in fashion, says Berryman. “Women want the same great colour payoff they are used to in synthetic products and our Burt’s Bees lip colours deliver that. Our new crayons have a velvety gloss finish and come in fashion shades. Packed with shea butter, kendi and jojoba oils and community-sourced beeswax, they also offer eight hours of moisturisation”.
esprit Magazine promotion “Burt’s Bees is the number five natural skincare brand in Australia and number three in units. We have a loyal customer base who are less price sensitive, more affluent and younger, even though our products target consumers aged 24 to 54. The brand has high consumer awareness, as evidenced by 2.9 million Facebook fans”.
B R IGHTEN I NG AN D NOUR I SHMEN T EF F EC TI V E R ESULTS
NATU RAL S KINCARE D R IVE S GROWTH AND B U IL DS CU S TOM ER L OYALT Y With today’s consumers more interested than ever in buying natural cosmetics and skincare, pharmacies have gained a leg-up on competitors by re-modeling venues to showcase the hottest makeup and skincare products. In addition to more appealing settings, knowledgeable staff are on hand to guide customers. Longterm staff-customer relationships build shopper loyalty. More direct customer contact is a great advantage in the natural category, says Berryman. According to the latest research, 42 per cent of shoppers are buying more natural than they were three years ago. Over 93 per cent of purchasers are also seeing new brands and products in natural, an increase of 37 per cent in the same timeframe”. Burt’s Bees is a leading driver of growth in the natural category worldwide. “Skincare is a crucial sector for the brand”, says Berryman.
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We practice what we preach and hope to set an example for others to follow. It’s called The Greater Good. And it’s how we are going to help to change the world.
The days are long gone when consumers didn’t believe that natural skincare was effective. Natural skincare not only works with the skin, it also has clinical data to back up claims, says Berryman. “Following on from the global success of BB creams, many natural brands are taking their cue from Asia, notably Korea and Japan, because of their advanced technology and trend-setting innovations. Our new Brightening range with daisy extract has been clinically shown to visibly even skin tone to produce a more radiant complexion and reduce pigmentation. The four products - Brightening Facial Cleanser, Even-tone Moisturising Cream, Refining Tonic and Dark Spot Corrector - produce visibly brighter skin within four weeks”. Because of Burt’s Bees’ origins - a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine in the US - royal jelly has long been a key ingredient for the brand because it’s one of nature’s most nutrientrich substances. “Burt’s Bees has a very robust innovation pipeline, but we definitely didn’t want to lose the incredible benefits of royal jelly”, says Berryman. “Our new Skin Nourishment range is the perfect combination of the brand’s strengths - intense hydration and the anti-ageing benefits of royal jelly - which helps to create healthy skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines”. Nourished skin is radiant skin. The four products provide optimal anti-ageing results without any need to compromise, which is what women today are looking for. “The entire range is 99 per cent natural and formulated for normal/combination skin”, says Berryman. “All of the products - Skin Nourishment Foam Cleanser, Day Lotion SPF15, Night Cream and Eye Cream - have luxurious formulas packed with all three macronutrients - antioxidants, Vitamins B1, B2 and B6 and essential amino acids”. Individual oils such as rosehip and argan, brimming with vitamins and minerals, kickstarted the current oil obsession in beauty which shows no sign of slowing down. What’s changed in the past few years is the introduction of skin products containing several oils because a blend offers more benefits. The new Burt’s Bees Complete Nourishment Facial Oil was a natural - in every sense of the word - move because of the nourishing benefits of oils, says
Berryman. “For those who have a lingering fear of oils, new technologies add sheen, not shine, without greasy residues. The unique mix of rosehip, jojoba and evening primrose oils in a concentrated formula is all about maintaining a youthful appearance naturally. Use alone or add a drop or two to moisturiser for a moisture boost”.
THE GR EATER GOO D - A 30 Y EAR C O MMI T M E N T With its growth from niche brand to global leader in the natural beauty sector over the past 30 years, Burt’s Bees remains a convictionled brand with a holistic and ethical approach to new product development, innovation, marketing and packaging, says Berryman. “We have a triple bottom line - people, profit, planet. When we say we look after our own, we mean everybody - our employees, our customers, our families, ourselves. Our products are 100 per cent natural and contain no parabens, phthalates, petrolatum or SLS and there’s no animal testing. We practice what we preach and hope to set an example for others to follow. It’s called The Greater Good. And it’s how we are going to help to change the world”.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|11
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Sensory benefits such as scent, texture and sensation have always been vital attributes in the cosmetic and personal care industry. But in today’s highly competitive global market, sensoriality, with its associated aesthetic, performance and application capabilities, has moved to centre stage and consumers are rejecting formulas if they don’t have the right sensual appeal.
TOUCH , FEEL , SMELL
In November 2015, in-cosmetics hosted the first international technical summit dedicated to texture in personal care formulation. According to Cathy Laporte, the exhibition director of the London-based event: “We’re seeing plenty of innovation in the functional side of cosmetics. But there are many questions about how to incorporate new textures and sensory developments into current formulations”.
BEAUTY REFOCUSES ON SENSORIALITY AND EXPERIENCE by Elisabeth King 12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Much of the current discussion has been sparked by the growing influence of Asia. But sensory benefits are important to consumers worldwide, reports leading researcher Mintel. For example, 32 per cent of Italian fragrance buyers are interested in scents that offer aromatherapy benefits. One of the major reasons French prestige brand, L’Occitane, focuses on three core brand values - Authencity, Respect and Sensoriality - rests on the fact that the textures and fragrances of its products offer a blend of well-being and sensory delight. A smart strategy in its home market where half of French fragrance buyers are looking for stress-relieving benefits. Globally, 37 per cent of women and 28 per cent of men rate sensory benefits as a major influence when buying personal care products, says Datamonitor. Consumers also make a strong connection between the sensoriality of a product and how it works, says Mintel. Sixty per cent of UK female bodycare purchasers judge a body lotion to be hydrating if it leaves skin soft to the touch for hours. Packaging deserves its longtime reputation as a ‘silent salesperson’, but the sensorial attributes of the product inside are crucial to building brand loyalty in an era when people of all ages have become so-called ‘promiscuous shoppers’. Another shift pushing the trend is that a luxury feel in skincare and hair products, once found only in prestige products, is now a virtual necessity in mass brands, too.
Asia Innovations The Asian premium market, notably Japan and South Korea, has launched a flood of interesting textures that are new to Western markets. The major beauty players such as Shiseido and AmorePacific have created jellylike, transparent facial moisturisers and sleep masks which have been extensively copied by European and American brands because they instantly make the skin look better. Tinted face gels and serums that give the complexion and lips a rosy glow have also prompted recent launches from multinationals such as L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Golden Age Rosy Glow ReDensifying Day. Many Asian beauty lovers are also ‘mist addicts’, which has reinvigorated the category in Western markets from foundation fixers to hydrating sprays that can be spritzed on throughout the day. Pressed serums - neither a cream or a gel - are another Korean trend gaining steam. A bridge product with a spongy, gelatinous feel, they are meant to be used between a regular serum and a night cream to make the skin feel even more supple and smooth. Not everyone has the time
to indulge in a face mask, so the Koreans have come up with splash masks to fast-track the effects of a normal 20 minute face mask to 20 seconds. Simply add water, pat onto the face and rinse off for glowing, more radiant skin. Both products also underline another strong trend. Different textures that dovetail within a beauty routine have become very important. Skin and haircare products that are sold separately but used in tandem such as silky serums and moisturising foundations. Estée Lauder’s Genuine Glow Collection is actually billed as ‘hybrid moisturising makeup formulas that have transformative textures’. The range works to hydrate, prime and tone the skin producing a fresh, natural glow by incorporating light diffusing technology and natural lecithin to balance excess oil.
Millennials & Body Care Just the sort of look required by the selfie generation of Millennials, the other major driving force behind the renewed focus on sensoriality. By 2020, Millennials will comprise 50 per cent of the global workforce and are key drivers of growth in fast fashion, derma/ health brands and skincare and makeup that offers lifestyle-oriented experiential benefits from radiant skin to shiny hair. Formulators are being charged to get creative with playful textures and sensory delights. New textures and refining products such as body creams with the feel of ice-cream which deliver instant moisturisation will increasingly fulfill these expectations. Oil formats without greasiness will continue to grow because of their appeal in Asia, South America and the Middle East, and the ongoing popularity will continue to flow on to other major markets, including the US and Australia. Body care is a low priority globally. Europe still accounts for over 50 per cent of premium sales in the category. Widespread growth in all regions will rely on faster application and absorption times. Major launches such as Nivea’s In-Shower body care and Vaseline’s Spray and Go have enjoyed double digit growth globally because they offer lighter, faster-absorbing formulas which are also pampering. New emulsions are being developed that provide what’s called a ‘water break’, a feeling of water bursting onto the skin on application. Admittedly it doesn’t actually provide extra hydration but it gives the perception that it does to the consumer and therefore enhances the in-use experience. Exfoliating and enriched body washes have glamourised the basic body category, but scent and innovative textures are poised to propel the sector further, especially in Asia. Jergens’ latest ad campaign for its Wet Skin Moisturizer, for example, bears the legend – You’re More Than Just A Pretty Face. Men
TREND
Global Demand and Building Brand Loyalty
have not been forgotten in the push for an allover sensory experience. Dove and Bulldog, the UK British brand recently acquired by Edgewell, the makers of Schick razors, has launched body lotions for men. Men are becoming very susceptible to sensoriality marketing. A study by SAM (Sensory and Markets) reveals that if manufacturers label any moisturiser - antifatigue and energising and put it in a blue tube or bottle - men will buy it.
Transformational Textures The major takeaway from in-cosmetics 2016 in Paris was - transformational textures and easyto-use formulas with a wealth of benefits are the future for the face and body. Incorporating jellies and water to improve spreadability and absorption is poised to revolutionise the experience of hydrating colour cosmetics and makeup, predicts Mintel. Creams and oils with the ability to morph into a powder are another example of the shape-shifting textures today’s consumers are looking for. Multi-benefit products such as Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Liquid Lip are also a signpost to the continued importance of sensoriality. A lightweight formulation with the colour payoff of a lipstick, the slip of a gloss and the comfort of a lip balm delivered in one swipe. L’Oréal Paris True Match Lumi Liquid Glow Illuminator follows the same track and is described as the first multi-pressed powder that acts as a blush, highlighting and illuminating the skin with a velvet glow. Sensorial benefits have also become a major force in suncare. Protection from UV damage is no longer enough. Suncare has become a beauty ritual because of new generation products with more spreadable, skinhydrating benefits. Firming, body-shaping, tan acceleration and prolongation are also in high demand.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|13
INDUSTRY NEWS
MOR BRICKS & MORTAR
When a brand has been built on the shelves of retail partners, it’s a developmental milestone when it reaches a position to complement that offer with its own concept stores. MOR, the affordable, luxury bath and body brand, has debuted its stand-alone concept store opening in Melbourne’s renovated The Strand central city shopping mall. The second store opened in Chatswood, just north of Sydney centre, prior to Christmas 2016. MOR is well known for its luxury quality, accessibly priced bath and body ranges where design plays as important a role as the evocative and luscious fragrances. The MOR boutique is an environment where home accessories are stocked, complementing the brand’s attention to luxury, quality and bath & body experience. “Destination zones are created within the store that one can travel through, allowing for a sense of discovery and an unveiling of the brand through this journey. Curved spaces, gentle light and a blending of fragrances to evoke the senses. The home accessories complete the sensory journey,” says Anne-marie Guida – Marketing and PR Manager – MOR bath, body and lifestyle. The 72sq metre store allows for clearly categorised display of the collections. While antique literature is a strong inspiration across the brand, with the boutique layout you can appreciate the diversity of the collections and be drawn to your preference. There’s a comprehensive display of Destination Bags, which Anne-marie tells esprit Magazine is the brand’s top selling SKU in department stores. Well-made, beautifully designed and aesthetic they are a winning gift/self-gift. Unique to the boutique environment is the gift wrapping station: “to complete the whole experience”, says Anne–marie. “There’s two choices of paper and three different types of ribbon.” Complimentary, as an add-on service. Talking to customers is an important element in NPD, according to Guida. “We listen to our customers’ conversations on social media and through email – they tell us what they like, or miss. Sales figures also show the success of a product.” With a new candle collection launched late last year, MOR is proud to say it is all Australian made, soy wax with cotton lead-free wick. The fragrances are manufactured for home products giving the best scented outcome. The 380gms candle has a 60-hour burn time, RRP $49.95. New in March 2017 is a Reed Diffuser collection. MOR is focussing attention on its serviced selling, with 45 Beauty Advisors across its department store and boutique business. Mandy Allford is National Training Manager. 14| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
FaceFit on counter service A sure fire way to make a skincare sale and develop a connection with your customer is to demonstrate the product on their skin. Maybe it’s shown on the hand in a quickie consultation but when there’s time available and the customer is agreeable, the face is the place. Dermalogica has developed a ‘product introduction treatment’ that takes 10 minutes. Face Fit is a curated range of express facial treatments designed for different outcomes: instantly boost skin radiance, hydration, perfect priming or eye area – all without leaving the Skin Bar. Face Fit treatments leave the complexion smoothed, glowing and primed for professional makeup application on counter or the customer can leave fresh faced. Dermalogica is introducing them as “the perfect choice when preparing for a special event or simply when skin is in need of a quick pick-me-up”. Available now from all Dermalogica Skin Bars, David Jones stores and authorised stockists. RRP $15.00 which is fully redeemable on product purchases. Following a Face Mapping Skin Analysis, a professional Skin Therapist will discuss the customer’s needs and concerns to determine the best treatment option. Face Fit treatment menu will be extended as new products launch.
M·A·C #VIVAGLAM Taraji P. Henson and Jussie Smollett are the latest faces of the M·A·C #VIVAGLAM campaign. Since 1994, every cent from the selling price of M·A·C #VIVAGLAM Lipstick and Lipglass has gone toward helping women, men and children living with and affected by HIV/AIDS. Availability: February 2017.
COTY’S NEW STRUCTURE Following the successful merger with The Procter & Gamble Company’s fine fragrance, colour cosmetics, salon professional and hair colour and certain styling businesses (“P&G Specialty Beauty Business”), Coty is now the third-largest beauty company in the world, with approximately USD$9 billion in revenue. As a combined company, Coty will also hold the number one position in fragrances, and number two and three positions in salon hair and colour cosmetics, respectively. To reflect this growth Coty is now organized into three divisions: Coty Luxury, Coty Consumer Beauty and Coty Professional Beauty, each focused on their respective categories. See pages 36 & 37 Coty interview. Coty Luxury is focused on expanding Coty’s leadership position in prestige fragrances and emerging position in skincare. Well-known brands include: Hugo Boss Balenciaga Joop! Calvin Klein Gucci Bottega Veneta Tiffany & Co Marc Jacobs Escada Chloé OPI miu miu Stella McCartney Davidoff philosophy skin care Lacoste Alexander McQueen Roberto Cavalli Coty Consumer Beauty is focused on colour cosmetics, retail hair colouring and styling products, body care and mass fragrances, with the intent of providing consumers with innovative products primarily in the mass retail channel. Its iconic brand portfolio includes: Guess Adidas Grooming Covergirl Playboy Jennifer Lopez Beyonce parfums Wella Rimmel London Vera Wang Bourjois Nice & Easy Sally Hansen Katy Perry David Beckham Max Factor Coty Professional Beauty is focused on servicing salon owners and professionals in both hair and nail care, covering all key salon segments and salon client needs. The professional-focused brands include OPI and the WELLA portfolio consisting of Wella Professionals, SP System Professional, Sebastian Professional, Nioxin and Clairol Professional.
Sally Hansen
CARING COLOUR
A trend that’s growing in beauty is ‘rehab’. Some of the salon services give a gorgeous effect but over time can damage the very feature you’re aiming to enhance. Many an eyelash extensions fan is in ‘lash rehab’ after a couple of years of two-weekly individual lash application and now opting for nourishing mascara to bring back the health and strength of their natural lashes. Likewise, the acrylic nail enthusiasts are giving their tippies a break. And Brow rehab has been on Benefit’s menu for some years. Enter the brands that combine significant caring ingredients within their beautifying products. A major launch for Coty in March is Color Therapy from Sally Hansen - an advanced-formula nail polish that does just that. It’s the first Sally Hansen nail polish that blends saturated colour and nourishing argan oil in 14 shades created in partnership with Global Color Ambassador, Madeline Poole; Rich Tones - bold deep tones; Pinks/Corals - deep and understated pink tones; Nudes - elegant neutrals. Sally Hansen’s Color Therapy comprises a nail polish, top coat and nail & cuticle oil, inspired by women’s desire to wear beautiful colour while simultaneously caring for their nails, says the brand. Sally Hansen’s Color Therapy nail polish and top coat contain a patented micro-delivery system that ‘downloads’ an argan oil-enriched formula onto the nails, resulting in intensive nourishment and instant moisture for healthier-looking nails. The Color Therapy nail polish needs no base coat so the oil complex can directly contact the bare nail. Nine out of 10 women experienced a noticeable improvement in their natural nails after wearing the Color Therapy nail polish. Vibrant tones, available in three palettes, give a radiant, shiny finish with up to 10 days of fade-proof, chip-resistant wear. The at-home manicure is completed with Color Therapy top coat and nail & cuticle oil, both formulated with the same argan oil contained in the nail polish. The top coat provides an ultra-glossy finish for extended wear, and the nail & cuticle oil, the ultimate in nail therapy, instantly makes nails and cuticles look healthier, restored and rejuvenated. Color Therapy blends a complex of natural argan, acai, and evening primrose oil to condition weak, dry nails. Argan oil contains high levels of unsaturated fatty acids, as well as vitamin E, an antioxidant vital for healthy skin and nails. Acai berry oil is rich in omega-3, 6, and 9 essential fatty acids that are valued for nutrition and conditioning in skin and hair care. Evening primrose oil features essential fatty acids that are known to help reinforce hair strength. Available from March 2017. RRP $16.95, at Priceline, Priceline Pharmacies, Target, Terry White Chemists, Chemist Warehouse and independent pharmacies nationally. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|15
INDUSTRY NEWS
Eye-novation! Australian company, Sarah Jean Lashes has the potential to go big, fast. The brand brings genuine innovation in the false eye-lash application category and a tool kit that sets the customer up for success. Having been selling consistently online for about nine months, going into bricks and mortar stores has been fundamental in growing Sarah Jean, says Brisbane-based company founder, Sarah Baker. “After launching in March 2016, I spent the first couple of months generating media coverage and obtaining independent reviews. Thus, when I provided the product information to a potential stockist, it wasn’t just me pitching how good the products are. Some stockists reorder within a matter of weeks, which is fantastic. I wanted to offer great margins, affordable ordering options and everything a stockist needs to sell the products including marketing materials and training,” Sarah tells esprit Magazine. “Looking after my current stockists by being responsive and checking in is a priority. Securing more stockists, including online retailers, salons and spas, and of course larger chains and department stores is also part of my growth plan. The products are well made, beautifully packaged, small, and most importantly, they offer a solution to a common problem: they make eyelash application at home easy. The products complement existing makeup and brow products and services, and have a lot of appealing attributes that other lash products just don’t have - making them an attractive addition for stockists. “I’ve received interest internationally so exploring overseas options is also part of my plan. People all over the world wear lashes so the opportunity for expansion is massive; it’s just making sure I’m well researched, well planned and ready for whichever locations I expand to.” The key innovation is what Sarah describes as “the world’s first party eyelash glue that applies like a mascara.” This signature product, the eyelash adhesive, is unlike any other lash glue, having a mascara style brush. This applies just the right amount of adhesive to the real lashes without any mess. Using the kit’s tweezer applicator tool, lashes can be placed and clamped together. The rubber tips on the tweezers don’t stick to the adhesive. It’s a truly unique and mess free way to apply false eyelashes easily. “By applying the adhesive to your real lashes and not just the strip on the false lashes (the traditional method), the area you’re applying the adhesive to is greater and thus the lashes are easier to apply and stay on longer,” says Sarah. To remove: “Gently peel them off and massage your real lashes with a foaming face cleanser and water to remove the adhesive.” For more information and to view the tutorial visit www.sarahjean.com.au.
Home-grown
SKINCARE REDEFINES HYDRATION
Here’s a new one: Australian-owned and made botanicES is delivering next-level moisture to skins across the world with its new and natural, science-based skincare range. The Brisbane-based skincare company, with its patented pure coffee extract, is harnessing the bioactive properties of natural caffeine found in coffee berries to boost skin hydration by up to 59%. Institute of Personal Care Science Director and Queensland Chair of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Belinda Carli, comments: “We conducted a statistically significant clinical trial to test the product on different age groups and skin types and it was clear that it did have a strong hydration benefit to the skin. In fact we found that the skin saw a 59% increase in hydration within three hours and you can see those benefits shortly after the product’s been applied. BotanicES definitely improves visible suppleness of the skin and keeps it in better condition.” botanicES CEO, Christelle Tait, said the range, which launched last year, was delivering remarkable visible results which could be seen on the faces of increasing numbers of fans. “Word-of-mouth recommendations, shared between friends, have led to exponential growth in certain geographic pockets. People are eager to get their hands on what is behind the transformation of their friend’s skin,” Ms Tait said. “I visited Braidwood to see a lady there – Helen Bennett - who has suffered for many years with problematic skin and says our products have literally changed her life. I took some product with me and it became a little like the Boxing Day sales, with people who had seen the improvement in Helen’s skin, quickly snapping up the limited supply I had with me.” Currently online sales only. For more information see www.botanices.com. 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
INDUSTRY NEWS
REVLON WELCOMES CIARA AS GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR Multi-talented entertainer and model, Ciara is the new face of Revlon colour cosmetics. Ciara believes that when you choose to love yourself first, you are more open to the love of others, which makes her the ideal match for Revlon’s LOVE IS ON™ positioning. “As a woman who exemplifies confidence and beauty, Ciara is a perfect Ambassador to represent Revlon,” said Revlon President & CEO Mr. Fabian Garcia. “Ciara is a talented and accomplished artist, loving wife and mother and a model of female empowerment. We are proud to have her represent our brand as she personifies the meaning behind the CHOOSE LOVE™ campaign.” Her first campaign with Revlon rolled out late last year.
JOEY CHANG JOINS SISLEY Joey Chang joins the Sisley team in the role of Brand Manager Australia & New Zealand. Joey’s career to date has been within the prestige beauty industry, most recently with Guerlain. Irene Robinson - General Manager Australia & New Zealand tells esprit Magazine: “I am delighted to have Joey on the Sisley team. Her passion for beauty, keen eye for detail and extensive experience will be invaluable to our business”.
THE ONLY 1 MATTE LIPSTICK by Rimmel London
Georgia May Jagger is giving us some lip. The new campaign featuring the Rimmel model shows her wearing 810 deep reddy purple – The Matte Factor shade from Rimmel’s The Only 1 Matte Lipstick launch. A good true matte lipstick that doesn’t dry on the lips is a tricky formula to create. Rimmel worked on the matte theme after its success with the original The Only 1 Lipstick range. Marketing needed promises such as: all-in-one matte lipstick that delivers long-lasting, non-drying colour, moisture and wear, and all for $15.95. So the labs went to work. The new volatile hybrid formula was developed: COMFORT & MOISTURE - a light emollient oil is combined with a liquid polymer to provide the comfortable, moisturising feel throughout wear. NON-DRYING - the oil is absorbed on application, creating a thin film between the skin and the pigment and banishing that irritating dry sensation often felt with matte lipsticks. LONG-LASTING COLOUR - the formula features volatile silicon to give a smooth and even colour release, which helps to set the lipstick for superior colour wear. It’s matte lipstick that lets you have it all in one. There are nine matte shades, and launching at the same time are six new satin shades joining the original collection. For the first time, Rimmel has created a virtual Lip Library to bring all the beautiful The Only 1 and The Only1 Matte lipstick shades to life on Tumblr. Customers can sort by shade, by lip shape or by finish to find the perfect shades that suit them. Find out more about this new creation with #liplibrary. Rimmel London The Only 1 Matte Lipsticks RRP $15.95 are available from February 2017 at Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W, selected pharmacies and selected Coles and Woolworths.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
SNIPPETS Lauder buys Too Faced The whimsical cosmetics brand Too Faced has been bought by Estée Lauder Companies which Forbes is reporting as its biggest ever deal. The brand was founded in 1998 by two Estée Lauder brand Counter Assistants – Jerrod Blandino and Jeremy Johnson. The brand has done phenomenally well not only for is quality of cosmetics but for its appealing product names such as Better Than Sex mascara. It remains entrepreneurially driven, which Lauder commits to maintaining for its massive Millennial following. The deal is quoted at US$1.45bn.
AUSTRALIAN Fine Fragrance first
The creation of Goldfield & Banks by Dimitri Weber is an innovative move in Australia’s fine fragrance industry, according to Michael Edwards – Fragrances of the World. In a true labour of love, Dimitri Weber – French-Belgian, perfumery career-lifer - has worked locally in Australia with French perfumers based in Melbourne (Parfumis – bespoke fragrance creators) to produce fine fragrances using Australian ingredients – “that’s his point of difference,” says Edwards. It’s an exciting opportunity for luxury retailers locally to offer their customers something genuinely unique in perfumery – Australian, artisanal perfumes created and blended to the most demanding of French standards. “A luxury botanical dream from Down Under,” says the proud founder who has been touched and inspired by the beauty of Australia’s nature during bright sunny days and dark, starry nights, from the salty oceans to the lush and arid natural habitats across the continent.
Weber says the fragrances will appeal to those who prefer exclusivity and Country Luxe. “We’re nurturing that ‘happy few’ with fine fragrances that will not be accessible everywhere and where exquisite service and specific gift wrapping accompanies the consultation.” Falling in love with Australia’s lush, aromatic and botanical beauty, its sweeping plains, turquoise fringed coast, ochre red interiors and harsh, dramatic landscapes Goldfield & Banks is a luxurious and precious collection of gender-neutral fragrances featuring exceptional pure and rare Australian essences and oils unexplored in modern perfumery. The name Goldfield & Banks pays homage to Australia’s first botanist and naturalist Joseph Banks and rejoices in his discoveries and the stunning botanical richness he found when he came upon this untouched, raw and mystical land. “Our Perfume Concentrates recall a deep and natural elixir of fragrance using only the purest and richest Australian and global essences. A true olfactory journey, each begins as an Australian sunset – deep light, shifting shadows and hues that enlighten the senses and prepare you for a sunrise of coastal beauty, sea spray, mist and opening the fragrance to the senses. The final fragrance journey is a climb to the summit to experience the fragrance in its complete open and honest glory.” Blue Cypress - Kakadu Northern Territory. Pacific Rock Moss - South Coast New South Wales. White Sandalwood - Kununurra Western Australia. Desert Rosewood - Central Highlands Victoria. Each is RRP - $229.00, 100mls at selected fine fragrance retailers. For more information: www.goldfieldandbanks.com. 18| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
BENEFIT COSMETICS BROW TO #1 Benefit Cosmetics is the #1 Brow Brand Worldwide based on estimated total global prestige brow product retail sales from July to September 2016, says the company. Benefit opened its first boutique in San Francisco in 1976, welcoming spontaneous drop in appointments and pioneering a Custom Brow Mapping technique to reveal each customer’s ideal shape. Benefit currently has over 2,000 BrowBar Beauty Lounges in 41 countries with over 4,000 aestheticians around the world. In July 2016, Benefit launched its comprehensive brow collection, offering solutions that volumise, shape, fill, highlight, prime and define the brow. From the easiest filling and shaping pencil to an award winning brow volumising fibre gel, the extensive range includes 45 products shaded to suit every brow. Top sellers include gimme brow, ka- brow! and good proof brow pencil.
DID YOU KNOW… ★ In every major market around the globe Benefit has a dedicated National Brow Artist renowned for their brow expertise. ★ In 2015 alone, 6 million brow waxing services were done at Benefit BrowBar Beauty Lounges around the world. ★ Gimme brow is the bestselling Benefit brow product in the US, the UK, Europe & Australia ★ Ka-brow is the most popular Benefit brow product in Russia ★ Goof-proof brow pencil is the most sold Benefit brow product in China, Middle East & South East Asia
Nivea’s global award Nivea Q10 Plus Anti-Wrinkle Replenishing Pearls has won a globally recognised award at the annual My Face, My Body Global Aesthetic Awards. These prestigious awards are dedicated to the aesthetic industry to recognise and reward brands for their product innovation and popularity. Retailing for $29.99 at supermarkets and chemists across the country, Nivea Q10 Plus Anti-Wrinkle Replenishing Pearls is joint winner of the Most Innovative Product — and was one of the only masstige brands in contention, alongside Retriderm by Dermocosmetica. The judges commented that Nivea’s Q10 Plus Anti-Wrinkle Replenishing Pearls are truly innovative and results focused for a supermarket product, furthermore noting its definitive benefits and a very satisfied client base. Avon opens wellness division Data agency, Mintel reports that consumers are embracing healthy, holistic living, and research shows that these lifestyle changes are driving growth in the facial skincare and anti-ageing market. Meeting this growth beauty direct-sell world leaders, Avon opens a health and wellness division - called New Avon, in North America.
ulta3
Cosmopolitan Bachelor of the Year official beauty sponsor ulta3 is bringing colour, cosmetics and fun to the Cosmopolitan search for Australia’s most eligible bachelor. In a competition first, male hotties between 18-35 are able to enter via the dating app, Tinder. The 30 best bachies were named in the December issue of Cosmopolitan Magazine and he who receives the most votes will be crowned Cosmo’s Bachelor of the Year in February at the live finale. ulta3 will be bringing beauties and bloggers together to the final event, giving them make-up treats, photo ops and a whole night of bachy-fun. Elise Synnott, Marketing Manager for ulta3 says: “We just couldn’t resist bringing the fun and colour of ulta3 to this great search. It’s a great chance for girls to get together, have some fun and help decide who will be this year’s Cosmo Bachelor!” As part of the sponsorship, ulta3 will be an integral part of the live gala event in February 2017, showcasing the brand to the general public and special celebrity guests. ulta3 can be found in all good pharmacies Australia wide.
INDUSTRY NEWS
SNIPPETS
All-Australian essential oils In Essence, trusted, TGA-listed and the market leader in Australian Aromatherapy, focuses on its roots with its new, fine selection of nature-inspired Australian pure essential oils. The ten oils are: Eucalyptus Organic, Fragonia, Kunzea, Lavender Tasmanian, Lemon Myrtle, Mandarin, Peppermint, Rosalina, Sandalwood Australian and Tea Tree Organic. These medicinal gems pay tribute to the traditional remedies of the outback. This unique range of high quality essential oils helps to heal wounds, support digestive function, relieve aches and pains, soothe cold and flu symptoms, and above all, delight the senses with the purity of freshly distilled plants. Says Pat Princi Jones – In Essence National Training Manager Aromatherapy: “Pure essential oils have a serious impact on your health and wellbeing. These natural remedies can uplift, renew and restore.” For the packaging In Essence has worked with local Melbourne-based artist Kate Shaw who captures the vibrant evocative power of nature in her landscapes. Australian owned and made. Price range for individual bottles is Eucalyptus RRP $16.95 to Sandalwood RRP $79.95. From Heritage Brands.
Makeup artists unite as Guild forms What is the Makeup Artist Guild Asia Pacific (MAGAP)? When no one else will, the MAGAP will unite, nurture and empower makeup artists, Melanie Burnicle, the CEO tells esprit Magazine. “It’s the trusted voice for the makeup community; aiming to unite all genres of makeup artists in the Asia Pacific region. So whether you work on film, TV, magazines, on counter or bridal makeup, the Makeup Artist Guild Asia Pacific has your back”. MAGAP will strive to nurture and grow the makeup artistry community through education, communication and networking. And to empower makeup artists, the Guild will celebrate their achievements through the MAGAP awards program, launching in 2017. See page 78 for business building bullet points by MAGAP CEO, Melanie Burnicle. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|19
INDUSTRY NEWS
B OBB I B customised ROWNskincare
SNIPPETS Beauty Science Curriculum The National Beauty Science Institute launches its first Beauty Science Curriculum Initiative at Rockefeller University, USA. Judith Price, President of The National Beauty Science Institute, and her prominent board of doctors and scientists from companies and institutions around the world welcomed guests at a cocktail event at Rockefeller University, to announce the launch of courses to educate consumers in the Science and Sustainability of Beauty. Speaking at the event, Ms. Price said: “Consumers, and in particular, a new generation of millennials, want to better understand not just a promise of beauty but the substance supporting it. Doctors and scientists have for years collaborated closely with their brand colleagues to drive innovation in the health and beauty industry. We will give those leaders of research and development a voice.” The Advisory Board of the Institute, consisting of industry and institutional leadership will collaborate to establish a curriculum of the first master class to be offered in 2017. Students are invited to email: mhorn@ nationalbeautyscienceinstitute.org to reserve places in the first cohort. Cosmoprof expo gets a dose of Greens With consumers favouring organic food they are extending their choice of what goes into their body to what goes onto it as well. They are seeking beauty products such as those made of ingredients coming from bio-agriculture and beekeeping, without pesticides and insecticides – certified organic. Reflecting that growing category Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, the premier international show (March 17-20, 2017) is debuting an area called BeOrganic dedicated to companies producing organic beauty products. www.cosmoprof.com. 20| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
On trend for the retail beauty industry, Bobbi Brown has developed Remedies – a range of six treatments that target specific complexion concerns to enhance skin’s overall health, instantly and over time. From severe dehydration to irritation and to problem skin, Remedies can be used individually or layered with skincare and foundation for fully customised skin solutions. No. 57 is best applied where needed as the last step in the skincare routine. On counter 8th January at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores.
IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2017 in-cosmetics, the leading personal care ingredients event reveals a focus on makeup and sustainability at its Global event in London, April 2017. Following its biggest-ever edition in Paris 2016, in-cosmetics Global returns to London for the first time in 15 years. More than 9,000 visitors are expected to travel to the UK from more than 100 countries when the event opens on 4th April. Over three days, the personal care industry’s leading event will provide a one-stop-shop for manufacturers to do business. R&D professionals will be able to network with suppliers and source innovative ingredients, while learning about the latest consumer trends and technical information. A focus on makeup Always keen to align itself with the industry’s key trends, in-cosmetics Global will launch a variety of new concepts in London. To support the most dynamic category in the cosmetic market and growing demand for colour cosmetics, the 2017 edition will see the launch of the Make-up Bar. Visitors will have the opportunity to explore a range of innovative functional ingredients and technologies – all developed by the event’s exhibitors. Featuring prototype formulas for lips, eyes, nails and skin, leading international suppliers will demonstrate their expertise in innovative pigments and technologies. Finished product manufacturers can explore the ingredients helping to deliver captivating and trend-setting colour cosmetics products. Sustainability in the spotlight Another new feature will be the highly relevant Sustainability Corner – designed to showcase leading environmental and social sustainability initiatives. Climate change, diminishing resources and globalisation are pushing the cosmetics industry to profoundly change the way it operates. The UN’s
Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were ratified in September 2015 and goal 12 is to “ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns”. This represents a direct call to the cosmetics industry to act now. Leading suppliers will share the ways they have developed or reformulated an ingredient or product to be more sustainable. A series of presentations will take place during the event, enabling visitors to debate key issues and learn how the industry is working towards achieving the UN SDGs targets. Today’s hottest topics will be covered International experts will deliver up-tothe-minute consumer trends, analysis and research data. Over 100 hours of free educational sessions, including the hugely popular Marketing Trends sessions. • Hands-on demonstrations of innovations in ingredients. • Technical seminars and Innovations Zone. • Global Workshop on crucial scientific and regulatory updates (sustainability, pollution and EU cosmetics claims regulation). • Sensory Bar - ‘try-out’ area where visitors can test innovative textures and new sensations (new and unusual textures from hybrids, heating and cooling products to butters and jellies will be on display). • Makeup Bar where visitors can test ingredients and identify some of the most innovative techniques in colour cosmetics. • Country pavilions (Spain, Brazil, France, Korea and North America). • Global Awards ceremony – April 4th. in-cosmetics Global will take place at ExCeL London from 4-6 April 2017. For more information, please visit www.in-cosmetics.com.
INDUSTRY NEWS
BEAUTY CONNECTIONS AUSTRALIA In an industry first, BeautyConnections Australia is a specialist placement & development agency offering a helping hand to busy Marketing, Sales & HR departments, specifically in the Beauty Industry. With over 25 years each in beauty marketing, Erica Oroszlany and Michelle Heaps can be called industry veterans with a wealth of knowledge and experience. They have both been senior executives for a number of beauty brands from mass to luxury, so they understand the beauty industry. “We know how time consuming it is to search for the right candidate to build strong teams, and how important it is to find the right match. We appreciate that on-boarding in the first three to six months is critical for both employee and employer, yet it’s a time-consuming task in our busy schedules. That’s when we came up with the concept for BeautyConnections Australia”. BCA provides its beauty industry colleagues a recruiter’s knowledge and expertise, combined with an understanding of our industry and company culture. Rather than being outsiders, they are part of the beauty industry network with an insider’s knowledge of job functions. When they talk to Beauty Marketers & Sales Managers about roles, Erica and Michelle know exactly what their clients are looking for. Who is it for: All beauty companies & busy beauty executives looking for an experienced helping hand with recruitment, and industry on- boarding, for new executive (head office) roles. How does it work: BCA uses its vast industry network to find not only the best candidate, but also assist in on-boarding them, supported by a suite of expert services.
Terry White Chemists – BIG BRAND GIVEAWAY –
Everyone loves a freebie and in its traditional slot on the retail beauty calendar, October, Terry White Chemists was a great place for customers to find one with the network gifting more than $4 million in beauty and health products. As part of the group’s Big Brand Giveaway, customers who spent $59 or more on participating brands were treated to one of 16,500 ‘thank you’ totes filled with more than $265 worth of customer favourites. The brand’s National Merchandise Manager (Beauty), Matt McLoughlin tells esprit Magazine that the two-week promotion was a great way to introduce the network to a new audience and to reward customer loyalty. “The beauty customer is spoilt for choice but we are fortunate to have a loyal and long-standing base – something we never take for granted,” Mr McLoughlin says. “The Big Brand Giveaway was an opportunity to thank existing customers for choosing Terry White Chemists as well as to extend an introduction and incentive to new customers.” The totes were packed with full-sized and sample items from 18 brands including Napoleon Perdis, Swisse, Blackmores, Nude by Nature, L’Oréal, Revlon and Sukin. McLoughlin said as well as being well received by the beauty market, the group’s RewardsPlus loyalty program saw a significant increase in subscriptions during the promotional period. “Results show sales, transactions and basket size saw a significant uplift both in the lead-up to, and during, the Big Brand Giveaway,” he says. “Importantly, we saw a significant lift across the same period compared with the year-on-year promotional data – making it a huge success.” The Terry White Chemists network is part of the Terry White Group that includes almost 500 pharmacies operating under the Terry White Chemists, Chemplus and Chemmart names. The Group has recently unveiled a brand strategy which will see all Terry White Group pharmacies transition to the TerryWhite Chemmart name.
SNIPPETS Erica Oroszlany and Michelle Heaps
Note: BeautyConnections Australia is the company name Website: www.beauty-connections.com.au. See page 25 for more information.
Solid Scent for Men Solid State Cologne for Men is a range of Australian-made and highly concentrated wax based fragrances in six unique scent profiles: Drifter, Cruiser, Journeyman, Aviator, Wayfarer and Freshman, in a balmlike wax. As simple as swipe and go, the clear scent evolves on contact with the skin. Housed in a sleek sliding vessel at RRP $39.95 via www.solidstateformen.com.
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The dizzying success of Flowerbomb prompts Viktor & RolF to concentrate on luxury and fragrance by Elisabeth King The launch of Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Artists at the National Gallery of Victoria in October was a squeezing room-only event. A world-first exhibition of the Dutch designers’ elaborate and flamboyant fashions of the past 25 years, hovering in the background of the fashion spectacular was the powerful presence of Viktor and Rolf’s global smash hit fragrance Flowerbomb - one of the world’s top 10 best-selling perfumes. A limited edition of Flowerbomb, also in the top 10 in Australia, punched home the message in the gallery’s shop.
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The avant-garde pair first came to global attention in 1998 with their landmark ‘Russian Doll’ collection. Over the next six years, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, to spell out their full names, debuted a ready-to-wear collection, footwear, handbags and menswear. In 2002, they signed a fragrance deal with L’Oréal, joining a stable of established names including Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren. The multinational’s first designer agreement in 17 years.
Global Smash Hit Flowerbomb started cautiously in 2004 in selective distribution - only 50 doors in the US. At the time, Snoeren commented: “It’s a way to reach a bigger audience, so it will be a boost for the brand”. From the get-go, there was never a doubt about having a strong link between the fashions and the fragrance. Horsting added: “We’ve always said that fashion is more than a product, more than clothing. It’s about dreams, and perfume is a dream in a bottle”. In a premonition of how big Flowerbomb was to become, Viktor and Rolf presented a senior L’Oréal executive with a wedding ring engraved with the names of both companies following the official inking of the deal. We always wanted Flowerbomb to be an integral part of our universe, Viktor and Rolf recently told Esprit during their Australian visit.
“We always wanted to offer something to aspire to and create beauty from. We also love the fact that it appeals to all women, not a particular age group”. Flowerbomb was three years in the making, twice the normal fragrance development period. Viktor and Rolf rejected 400 fragrances put forward by IFF before opting for the final juice. Upon smelling the scent for the first time, the duo’s friend actress Tilda Swinton described Flowerbomb as smelling like a “sexy wedding”. She’s right. Opening with bergamot and citrus notes, Flowerbomb has middle notes of jasmine, rose and orchid and a drydown of amber and musk. The iconic bottle resembles a faceted diamond and a grenade and Viktor & Rolf ’s signature black trademark around the neck. An over-sized pink box tied with a black ribbon seals the commercially appealing package. In November 2015, Viktor and Rolf celebrated the 10th anniversary of Flowerbomb in their own avant-garde way. During Paris Fashion Week, they filled the runway with models clad in black with motor cycle helmets alongside others in dreamy dresses of satin and ribbon. As the grand finale approached, a deep voice started chanting Flowerbomb, followed by an explosion of flower petals. Over the past 11 years, L’Oréal has released 30 flankers globally from a run of Christmas limited editions through extreme versions to exclusive releases such as the Neiman Marcus Exclusive Swarovski Flowerbomb in 2016. Viktor and Rolf rightly regard fragrance as their “modern day business weapon” - a theory put to the test with the release of BonBon fragrance in 2014.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Sweet and Powerful Building on the Scent of Success “We love sweetness, so it was logical to launch something even sweeter than Flowerbomb”, say Viktor and Rolf in unison, a habit that every interviewer has to get used to. “We brainstormed the packaging, too. Bows are a very important part of our fashion work, so we decided that the BonBon bottle should be shaped like a bow because it’s visually sweet”. The fragrance was unveiled at the designers’ show in Paris, featuring dancers walking en pointe in flesh-coloured latex dresses. Cute and fashionable, BonBon has been a hit with younger women. “But we also evolved it into an Haute Couture formulation”, says Horsting. “The scent is deeper, deluxe and more powerful with even more caramel”. Cecile Matton and Serge Majoullier, the perfumers behind the original BonBon, were pressed into service again for the recently released BonBon Couture. The oriental-gourmand begins with a juicy combination of mandarin, neroli oil and peach, followed by a heart of white flowers and a base defined by a woody accord and caramel. Like all fashion designers, Viktor and Rolf have missed the mark a couple of times. Their first men’s fragrance - Antidote - failed to fire and has been discontinued. In 2011, L’Oréal released Spicebomb, the male counterpart to Flowerbomb. “The ambition was to create a men’s Flowerbomb”, says Snoeren. “We were jealous of women, one could say”. The new scent was crafted by Olivier Polge, one of the perfumers responsible for Flowerbomb, and was designed to be “deliberately powerful, bold and sensual”, adds Snoeren. Cueing in with its name, Spicebomb’s bottle resembles a grenade and the fragrance is released by pulling the pin. With notes of chilli, saffron, leather, tobacco and vetiver, the juice also features ‘cold’ spices such as pink pepper. “Spicebomb Extreme launched in Australia in time for Christmas”, note Viktor and Rolf. “It’s a more condensed version with even more impact”.
Niche Haute Perfumery and Luxury Viktor and Rolf will be concentrating more on their fragrance business going forward. They plan to position the brand in the highest luxury segment of fashion and stopped their ready-towear shows in early 2015, shuttering their Paris flagship store in the Rue Saint-Honoré in early 2016. Continuing their haute couture business may also help to fuel fragrance sales, as it does for Celine and Yves Saint Laurent. In mid-October, Viktor and Rolf launched a niche fragrance collection in the Upper East Side Academy in New York. Guests included actress Taraji P. Henson, Saturday Night Live comic Sasheer Zamata, and Sean O’Pry, the face of Spicebomb. Called Magic!, the collection comprises six scents and will roll out first exclusively in Saks Fifth Avenue stores and its online site in February. The Australian launch is scheduled for the last quarter of the year. “They are an unexpected twist on niche
fragrances, each one a paradoxical fusion of natural ingredients and innovative accords”, says Horsting. “They cover the olfactory spectrum because we always wanted to do a fragrance collection. There’s one over-arching theme of making the impossible possible. That’s why the names sound like magic tricks - Dirty Trick, Liquid Diamonds, Sage Spell, Dancing Roses, Sparkling Secret and Lavender Illusion”. Euromonitor has tapped designer makeup as a strong trend, following the success of Tom Ford Beauty at Estée Lauder and the acquisition of the Dolce & Gabbana license by Shiseido. “Journalists always ask if we are going to do a cosmetics line”, say Viktor and Rolf. “We’ve said right from the start of our partnership that we would love to. We love all aspects of fashion, not just fashion collections, but also fragrance and beauty”. Watch this space. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|23
INDUSTRY NEWS
ARDEN
Awards
The past year at Elizabeth Arden has been exceptional, David Whyte, National Training Manager Elizabeth Arden tells esprit Magazine. “We have launched a number of new products, such as our Ceramide and Prevage essence, Ceramide overnight mask, Ceramide cleansing oil and the 1st to market product, Prevage City Smart. As a result the team at Arden have had the challenge of learning a number of new features and benefits and incorporating it into their regime recommendations. The team has not only risen to the challenge but exceeded all expectations by catapulting the brand into double digit growth and taking most of our new launches into top 10 rankings. “Spending time with the team at our annual Christmas and awards dinner is always a pleasure, and 2016 has been no exception. The team has been so excited about all the new innovation and the direction the brand has been going that choosing winners for our annual awards this year has been very challenging. However acknowledging our best of the best is important to get right and sticking to our criteria of; high KPIs, meeting and exceeding sales targets and a genuine passion for the brand has ensured we recognise the right people. It gives me great please to announce the following winners and service awards.”
SNIPPETS South Korean dermo launch South Korea’s The Face Shop, in a bid to own a larger share of the lucrative dermatology market in the Asia-Pacific region has created Dr. Belmeur skincare. For specific skin types the products are formulated to soothe sensitive skin and form skin barriers. Face Shop is a division of LG Household & Health and Dr. Belmeur is the company’s first dermo-cosmetic brand. The SiliSponge phenomena It’s called the SiliSponge and it comes from Hong Kong based Molly Cosmetics. And it’s ‘going off’ in internet sales around the world. What is it and why? It’s a makeup applicator that promises to halve foundation use. The ‘sili’ part of the name comes from what it’s made of – silicon and the outer case is thermoplastic polyurethane used for its resistance to oil and grease, so it doesn’t absorb any product. Thus, the investment of around $15.00 can extend one’s foundation by 50%. It may turn out to be a fad, but for what it’s worth, this little ‘breast-implant-looking’ thingy is turning our heads to the consumer appetite for application tools that offer value-for-money and may do a better job than our fingers or brushes, also fueled by the success of Beautyblender application sponge sales. YSL appoints Staz YSL Beauty has appointed Staz Lindes, rock guitarist, photographer, model and inspiring young woman, as a Makeup Ambassador. Staz is the daughter of rock guitarist, Hal Lindes and a member of the Paranoyds girl band.
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VICTORIA
State BC of the year (Department store) Maddison Relouw State BC of the year (Pharmacy)
Samantha Jende
Achievement award
Kayla Backwell
Achievement award
Carol Arklay
Achievement award
Simora Ung
Service award
Emily Huang (5yrs)
Service award
Carol Arklay (5yrs)
SOUTH AUSTRALIA State BC of the year
Jennifer Rowan
Achievement award
Michelle Natsias
Service award
Yvonne Martin (5yrs)
WESTERN AUSTRALIA State BC of the year
Wilma Hayes
Achievement award
Antonina Camillo
Achievement award
Karen Beard
Service award
Debbie Taylor (25yrs)
Service award
Pamela Todd (10yrs)
Service award
Rhonda Horner (10yrs)
NEW SOUTH WALES State BC of the year (Department
Sarah Barlow
store) State BC of the year (Pharmacy)
Luciana Dallascosta
Achievement award
Munira Altabbah
Achievement award
Heather Rogan
QUEENSLAND State BC of the year (Department
Kim Hensley
store) State BC of the year (Pharmacy)
Colleen Diesing
Achievement award
Cindy Liddell
Achievement award
Amy Mesgara
Service award
Kim Hensley (5yrs)
Service award
Desiree Hogan (10yrs)
Service award
Sue Boskett (10yrs)
NATIONAL AWARDS National therapist of the year
Roshni Perumal
National event specialist of the year
Amelia Dysart-Tupaea
National CDL BC of the year
Flora Di Pietro
National BC of the year
Maddison Relouw
esprit Magazine promotion
NETWORK EDGE BeautyConnections Australia – An Industry First for Recruitment and Beauty by Elisabeth King
A gap in the market and a real need were the triggers that led Erica Oroszlany and Michelle Heaps to enter the competitive field of recruitment. There are recruitment agencies for beauty consultants and salon therapists, but BeautyConnections Australia (BCA) is an industry first specialist recruitment agency which focuses on strategic hires from mid-level to senior executive placement. With their beauty industry experience, they provide a helping hand to time-poor hiring managers. The type of recruitment business that we wanted didn’t exist, so we created it, say Oroszlany and Heaps. Both managing partners have worked in the beauty industry for more than 25 years. “We both have the benefit of having worked for some of the most recognised names in the beauty industry”, says Oroszlany. “We have also been hiring managers in our previous roles and understand the challenges that beauty companies face when employing new marketing and sales executives. BCA has a clear advantage in recruitment because we know the industry, from ground level to senior management”. Major Turnover/ Securing Top Talent There is a high staff turnover in the beauty industry, says Heaps. “We launched BeautyConnections Australia in June, but had been tracking the market for a while. On average, between 15 and 30 jobs in beauty marketing alone are advertised on sites such as Seek every month. The biggest number of positions are advertised in January/February and August/September”. The challenge with online employment sites is that companies only access people who are looking for a job at that particular time, says Oroszlany. “BCA has a huge industry network to secure high quality candidates. We clearly understand the specialised business, culture and expectations of the beauty industry, and our range of services covers recruitment, customised on-boarding and probationary period support.
Beauty company executives are under pressure to secure the right talent quickly when a role in their team becomes vacant. Like many marketing managers and HR executives, Oroszlany and Heaps know that ‘shadow work’, where many executives are fulfilling other jobs and tasks outside their job specs, means there’s little time to view recruitment strategically for a significant return. That’s where Oroszlany & Heaps believe their industry experience can help. Insider Knowledge and Fast-Tracking Productivity The people a company recruits are crucial to its success, says Oroszlany. “Recruitment is not something to be squeezed in when someone has the time. BCA saves valuable time in the hiring process through in-depth screening of candidates to fast-track productivity and finding the right cultural fit. But the crucial advantage of using BCA’s services is that we know the beauty industry, adds Oroszlany. “Many companies are swamped with CVs following advertisements and find it hard to cope. We see ourselves as a partner in the hiring process to improve and simplify recruitment times and procedures, and BCA offers on-going support, notably onboarding for faster integration”. Accessible, Affordable, Committed “BCA charges a flat fee and we pride ourselves on being accessible and affordable”, says Heaps. “It’s not just sales and marketing managers who are finding it hard to find the time to
tackle the complexity of today’s recruitment process, including looking outside the beauty industry for an appropriate candidate. HR departments often wear a lot of hats or the main executive works part-time. Because Erica and I are marketers, we can also offer advice on all aspects of the beauty industry from mass to luxury”. Oroszlany and Heaps believe they can make a real difference. Our understanding is based on practical experience and insider knowledge, says Oroszlany, but we also have a strong emotional attachment to the beauty industry. “We are proud to support the Look Good Feel Better charity; we’re passionate about its achievements and we donate a percentage of our placement fees to this great cause”. For further information SYDNEY Michelle Heaps Managing Partner BeautyConnections Australia (02) 9432 7826
MELBOURNE Erica Oroszlany Managing Partner BeautyConnections Australia (03) 9607 1391
www.beauty-connections.com.au
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Have an attitude of grattitude & just work it!
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Family Dynamic CORE METR IC S B R AN D S D E L I VE R CONTI NUO U S DO U B L E D I G I T G R OW T H By Elisabeth King
The Desancic family share a common vision. Take a good idea and make it better, and then make it great. The family business was founded 20 years ago and has become one of the local beauty industry’s key success stories for longterm viability and profitability. There’s no prima donnas, says Tijana Desancic, Marketing Director, we all roll up our sleeves and jump in with everyone else.
It’s tough to sugar coat the odds - only 30 per cent of familyowned businesses survive into the second generation. The ones that do often have a rule that if a family member wants to work in a management position, they must hone their skills in a different company.
Sally Desancic – Founder of Core Metrics, also known as The Perfume Hunter
U N BE ATABL E SKILLSETS Sally Desancic needs little introduction to Australia’s leading retailers. Although she founded Core Metrics with husband Ray, for over 30 years she was responsible for introducing some of the world’s most prestigious brands to the Australian market, developing sales and marketing strategies from such tentpole names as D&G, Versace. Givenchy, Nina Ricci, Kenzo and Clarins. Widely known as The Perfume Hunter, she has instilled a “never-ever-give-up” attitude, positivity and passion into her twin daughters, Tijana Desancic and Ivana Lowrey. A clear competitive edge in managing Core Metrics’ rapidly expanding stable of brands. Family-owned enterprises have many advantages, including a trust factor, and the ability to pursue new opportunities with fewer delays, says Tijana. “Ivana spent more than 10 years running the state sales divisions of two of the world’s largest generic pharmaceutical companies. Managing budgets, forecasting and planning for the domestic markets are second nature to her. I love market research and creating new brands that meet today’s constantly-changing market. But I am also involved in many other parts of the business, including inventory, manufacturing, exports and accounts. We believe in work/life balance, but anyone who takes over a family business has to work harder than anyone just to prove they deserve to be there”.
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We believe in work/life balance, but anyone who takes over a family business has to work harder than anyone just to prove they deserve to be there
“
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DOUBL E D I GI T GR OW TH YEAR - O N - Y EAR There’s no doubt on that score. Core Metrics now has a portfolio of five top-selling brands - C-Lab & Co, The Bronzer, Pure Paw Paw Ointment, The Goat Skincare, Cafe Skin Scrub and launching a 6th in the new year The Baby Goat Skincare - they are considered market leaders in the naturally-based, affordable skincare category. Our brands are stocked by many of the leading pharmacy groups, say Tijana, including Priceline, Terry White, Amcal, Wizard, Guardian and leading independents. “We are posting double digit growth of 15 to 20 per cent year-on-year. We have also increased the number of SKUs by 15 per cent over the past year”. C-Lab & Co is a shining example of Core Metrics’ overall strategy of filling a gap in the market and making it huge. Launched in 2015, the 100 per cent natural coffee scrub grabbed headlines during the 2016 Oscars ceremony in Hollywood. Selected for inclusion in the famed goodie bags gifted to Academy Award nominees, C-Lab & Co was in the bag given to such major stars as Leonardo di Caprio, Eddie Redmayne and Cate Blanchett. It was a dream come true to get such global recognition, says Tijana, but savvy marketing through social media and digital reach was the main reason such a simple idea turned into such a phenomenon.
Tijana Desancic - Marketing Director - Core Metrics
esprit Magazine promotion
PODS CRUCIAL FOR ADDED EDGE A strategy that works at home and abroad and which boosts the success of all Core Metrics brands. “We always meet the market but look beyond the trends”, says Tijana. “If you don’t make that distinction, all of the retailers start to stock the same products. We approach retailers and talk to them on an individual basis to determine how they can stock on-trend products that are different to what everyone else has on their shelves. We customise offerings to the needs of each retailer - their location, demographics and main age groups”. The Goat Skincare and C-Lab & Co ranges rank as two of Core Metrics’ biggest-selling brands. “All of our products are authentic and we use natural ingredients as much as possible”, says Tijana. “The Goat Skincare is very much part of the fast-growing therapeutic category and is suitable for all ages and all skin types. The major point-of-difference is the use of sustainable palm oil and fresh, permeatefree, ethically-sourced goat’s milk sourced from a farm in Victoria. Goat’s milk has a pH very close to human skin and helps to relieve the dryness, irritation and itchiness caused by sensitive skin conditions”. Australian women love paw paw, but Pure Paw Paw Ointment from Core Metrics targets a new, more demanding generation of
consumers, says Tijana. “The brand is also one of our biggest sellers and goes several steps further than other brands on the market. Today’s consumers seek out products with solid sustainability credentials and Pure Paw Paw Ointment is made using fresh paw paw fruit from tropical North Queensland and fermented in Victoria. The formula is unique and has achieved cult status with both local and overseas consumers”. Cafe Skin Scrub also stands out from the crowd by keeping up with the growing sophistication of the natural market. We use Arabica beans roasted to a level called “just cracked”, which retains more of the natural moisture of the coffee bean, says Tijana. “Australians love their coffee and appreciate single source ingredients whether the coffee is in a scrub or a cup. The Bronzer was Core Metrics’ first self-tanning brand and is considered to be one of the original fake tan brands in Australia back in the late 90s. Sustainability, one of the hottest topics in beauty, was a goal from the start. The Gradual Tan, for example, is enriched with goat’s milk and is suitable for sensitive skins. Women worldwide love The Bronzer and it continues to be a best-seller in spite of competition”.
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We always meet the market but look beyond the trends
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Ivana Lowrey – Sales Director – Core Metrics
STRONG EXPORT FOCUS / CHINA BIGGEST MARKET Core Metrics has had a strong export focus for the past three years. Our biggest market is China. This year we are launching across one of China’s largest pharmacy chains says Tijana. “We recently launched C-Lab & Co in the Plaza chain in Japan, which has 70 drugstores and services 80 million customers a year. The EU is also a major growth target, notably France, the UK and Greece. South Americans have a strong preference for natural beauty products and we also recently launched in Chile to gain a foothold”. Retailers appreciate suppliers who not only care deeply, but who have a strong capability to support their business, says Tijana. “Core Metrics have a strong record in supporting retailers from helping them to select the right products to providing on-going advice and offering customised promotional support. How you market health and beauty products in today’s competitive environment is what makes a product stand out. Core Metrics is an expert in social media reach, collaborates with other brands and key influencers and organises media launches. Today’s consumers, especially Millennials, demand authenticity and an interesting back story and that’s what Core Metrics delivers on a continuous basis”.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|29
Camera Shy?
N O WAY, N O T T O DAY ! The dynamic nature of today’s digital environment is reshaping the beauty landscape, impacting consumer behaviour, beauty rituals, innovations and the language of product descriptions. Research agency, Canadean’s presentation: ‘Targeting consumers in today’s digital era’, delivered at InCosmetics Asia 2016 gave examples. Evolving behaviour that has spawned from this changing environment is the expansion of traditional social exchanges. These are no longer confined to physical interaction, and this can be attributed to the combination of social media and enhanced mobile technologies such as smartphones and tablets. Consumers can socialise at any time via mobile platforms. In face-to-face meetings we might excuse our bad-hair day, or our tired face and laugh it off, but in photos, where we can’t defend our complexion imperfection, we want to put our best face forward at all times. Enter the pre-filtered face! Or in TV lingo: “Here’s one I made earlier”…at dawn, in the mirror. Jamie Mills, Analyst at Canadean, explains: “Posting selfies online or sending images is increasingly commonplace in consumer routines today, even replacing text messages for some. Due to these spontaneous social interactions, the need to be ‘photo-ready’ is becoming essential for digitised individuals.”
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According to Canadean’s research, approximately three in five consumers in Asia-Pacific say they are conscious of their appearance in photos and images. Mills adds: “This creates unique opportunities for beauty brands. For example, one of the defining characteristics of imagebased social media platforms such as Instagram is that consumers are able to edit and enhance their appearance electronically by the use of filters. Beauty brands can capitalise on familiarity with such programs and their association with image enhancement to create a unique positioning.” It might just be marketing terms but the language of digital appeals to Millennials and younger and is popping up all over packaging and product profiles: ‘Soft focussed’, ‘blurring’ and ‘filters’ promising that camera-ready complexion. The formulations are focussed on light reflection, radiance and techniques that are known flatterers. It’s a combination of product and application. Cosmetics is about confidence …and of course fun. You never know when the Red Carpet is going to be rolled out before your feet or you need to snap a selfie to share with your social media tribe, so like good Girl Guides… be prepared! Now... LIKE and SHARE with your customers!
Here’s a Snap Shot MECCA COSMETICA Soft Focus Smoothing Primer ($40) is a high-performance primer that not only improves the application and staying power of foundation but it also smooths and nourishes skin, instantly blurring the appearance of any fine lines or visible pores. Antioxidant vitamin Coenzyme Q10 protects against free radicals while Hyaluronic acid keeps skin happily hydrated. Consider it as a soft-focus filter in a bottle.
L’ORÉAL PARIS Covering up a tattoo, scarring or dark eye circles – recommend L’Oréal Paris Infallible Total Cover Foundation (RRP $29.95) and Colour Correcting Concealer Palette (RRP $29.95) which work together to blot the blemish. Both formulas combine Highload™ camo pigments with stretch elastomers in a light aqueous gel for 30% more coverage than classic cover-ups, without the cakey-feel. Foundation comes in six shades –pale to amber and Concealer comes in five colour correcting shades to support the camouflage promise. Launches in February 2017.
MECCA COSMETICA Enlightened Illuminating Balm ($32) is a luxe, luminising balm to highlight, enhance and add radiance to the complexion; inspired by Mecca Cosmetica’s best-selling Lit From Within Illuminating Primer. The warm, face-flattering shade complements most skin tones and delivers a natural-looking glow. Full of skin-enhancing ingredients like Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil and Castor Seed Oil, the highlyblendable formula gives a smooth, luminous finish that’s long lasting.
NICOLE THOMPSON M· A· C Senior Make Up Artist “The perfect selfie starts and finishes with flawless looking skin. We use Prep and Prime Skin followed by Studio Fix Fluid SPF15 Foundation to achieve this. A must have product in any makeup artist’s kit, it’s known for its skin perfecting qualities, giving a smooth, flawless coverage and natural matte finish, perfect for disguising imperfections. Apply Strobe Cream with a sponge to the highest parts of the face (cheek bones, brow bones, cupids bow) for a luminous, Victoria’s Secret Angel-esq glow and BAM selfie perfection!”
THE HAILEY BALDWIN FOR MODELCO range was designed specifically for the ‘selfie’ purpose. “In this day and age, girls have to be photo ready at all times and the collection contains all the skin perfecting products that you need to achieve a filter-look,” says Lauren Lang for ModelCo. “Glow Beauty Balm is amazing for wearing on its own or as a primer and it really illuminates your skin. The Filter Contour and Glow is great for adding definition and On-the-Glow Highlighter in Spotlight gives that added sheen to your skin.”
MARKETING
Beauty of One’s Own The On-Going Evolution of Customisation By Elisabeth King There’s nothing new about customisation in beauty. The Cosmetiscope, an oncounter gadget promising to ‘analyse your skin tone’, debuted in the US in 1953. In 1979, Estée Lauder launched Prescriptives, complete with beauty advisors in white coats custom-blending foundation in scientific-looking machines. The multinational finally shuttered the brand in 2009 as a department store regular, reviving Prescriptives two years later as an online-only offer. On the cusp of customisation in beauty becoming a hot topic again in 2013, Lauder re-introduced its cult custom foundation service via e-commerce. Customers now upload images of themselves, answer a probing questionnaire and within a week or so receive their ‘made for you’ foundation or powder.
For the past three years, the buzz around customisation has gained real momentum. But will it be easier today for beauty and skincare brands to offer the real deal rather than a mere facsimile? In Asia, brands are opening lip bars which allow customers to test two or three shades at a time to mix their own colour. The problem is that women have been doing this for decades in the comfort of their own homes. Ditto foundations. It’s very easy to make a DIY foundation mixing lighter and darker bases in the palm of the hand.
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Sephora Leads in Cocktailing The beauty market has essentially split into two mega trends - multi-benefit, one-sizefits-all products and personalisation similar to the fashion industry. It’s been much easier for fragrances to step up to the plate. Le Labo, now owned by Estée Lauder, offers personalised packaging. British perfumer Floris and Guerlain both offer high-end bespoke fragrance services. The Mixologie brand offers a set of eight rollerball fragrances at an affordable price which are designed to
be layered. In store, Tom Ford counters advise customers which of the fragrances are good for layering - two or three at a time. Jo Malone has trademarked its Fragrance Combining, blending suggestion ‘service’. In skincare the introduction of dual-chamber skincare products is viewed as the springboard of the current concept of customisation. The format allows for multiple formulations to be packaged so that the consumer ‘mixes’ the treatment just before application. Body products, self-tanners and foundations have also been marketed in blend-at-will packaging.
Sephora has played a significant part in the rise of personalisation in beauty. The opensell environment of the world’s largest beauty chain has encouraged shoppers to do more testing themselves, instead of waiting for a BA to offer them products and advice from behind the counter. Crucially, store staff aren’t tied to single brands and can sell across a range of products. A sales approach that has sparked the popularity of the so-called ‘cocktailing’ trend as a way to achieve customised shades through cherry-picking from different brands. Sephora executives actually research new beauty products and brands that dovetail with the popular trend. Sheer lipsticks that blend easily, mascaras featuring two formulas and individual eye shadows that offer more scope for experimentation than multi-hued palettes. According to Wende Zomnir, founder of L’Oréal-owned Urban Decay: “Palettes have a specific point of view in the way they suggest certain combinations and many beauty mavens like to define their own look”.
The Power of Apps and the Net Leading makeup apps such as YouCam and L’Oréal’s Makeup Genius have made beauty purchasing decisions easier by providing a straightforward way to change a look instantly because they guide women towards products that suit their colouring and skin tone. The Internet has also been a major enabler because it’s now far easier to collect personalised data on a mass scale. Consumers can create a custom profile online by answering questionnaires about their hair colour and texture, skin tone and features. Professional experts can then recommend personalised approaches and treatment routines which can be bought online or in-store. A Mintel survey in 2014 discovered that many women were no longer willing to be passive purchasers of standardised makeup, skincare and haircare. While younger, more tech-savvy consumers are more likely to mix and match makeup and use online diagnostic tools and apps, women of all ages are looking for solutions which suit their individual needs. In the UK, one in four hair colourant users said they were interested in in-store colour matching services. In the US, a huge 72 per cent are interested in skincare products that suit their lifestyle. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons have been prescribing customised skincare for their patients for decades. But is it feasible to offer such customisation in skincare on a large scale? Even though it’s long been known that different skin types have their own characteristics, skincare brands have largely stayed within the
safety of general classifications such as dry, combination and oily. But dry skin is often sensitive and oily skin can also be sensitive and pigmented.
In-Store Guidance and Multiculturalism Answering online questionnaires can only go so far. True customisation in skincare still involves a consultation with a skincare professional to address all of a consumer’s concerns. Kiehl’s recently launched Apothecary Preparations, which relies on one core product - a skin strengthening serum. When a customer goes to a Kiehl’s store, their skin is diagnosed and the therapist will recommend adding other products which address such issues as pigmentation or sensitivity. The customer leaves with instructions to mix the products at home when needed. Skin Inc, a Singapore brand utilising Japanese technology, is stocked by Sephora and also offers this approach. An extra shot of hyaluronic acid or retinol to address dryness and wrinkles are added to core products at home. Multiculturalism is also a major driver of the customisation trend. Many apps have become popular in Western countries where nonCaucasian consumers feel they have been ignored in the past. Asia is again leading the way. According to Joanna Chan, research analyst with Euromonitor, customisation is on track to be the dominant trend for skincare in the region. In the data company’s 2015 global survey, 50.5 per cent of respondents selected ‘suited my skin type’ as the factor behind their path to purchase with the demand at its highest level in China, India and Indonesia. Three years ago, the L’Oréal-owned Yue Sai brand launched Customized TCM Beauty Solution Ultimate Refining Serum, China’s first customised serum formulated in-store according to the specific needs of the client. There are five vital parameters Asian consumers are looking for in personalised products, says Chan - age, moisture balance, ethnicity, gender and lifestyle. When targeting the multicultural market, she notes, successful brands should cater to the specific needs of consumers as related to their ethnicity and culture, and which also take their lifestyles and the climate where they live into consideration. Last October, the Korean government legalised customised cosmetics, which were previously banned in the trend-setting country because of potential safety concerns. The legalised categories include perfumes, skincare and makeup. The move is aimed at further diversity and expanding Korea’s fast-growing local and international beauty markets.
Into The Future The term bespoke is bandied about too freely these days. From a cost perspective, it would be very difficult to manufacture truly customised skincare and cosmetics on a large scale. The main reason Prescriptives was taken out of store was the high cost. Eleanor Dwyer, a beauty industry analyst at Euromonitor, believes that the majority of consumers are still not willing to pay a high premium for individually customised beauty products. A degree of customisation is achievable and for many that’s more than good enough. Sephora’s Color IQ system, developed in collaboration with Pantone, uses in-store scanners to judge skin tone and recommend the appropriate products. Australian natural brand, Adorn Cosmetics, offers a Colour Match service, where consumers upload an image of themselves and experts recommend the right foundation or lipstick. Sephorastocked Cover FX has Custom Cover pure pigment which can be added to all manner of face products, drop by drop to create a customised complexion enhancer. A drop in any serum gives a customised light coverage, 3-4 drops in a foundation enriches the colour for tailored, full coverage. Australis and The Body Shop both have lightening and darkening products that adjust the shades of foundation to name a few developments. The day may come when technological advances make truly customised products costeffective. But the current takeaway for beauty brands and companies is that the trend helps them to interact and connect with consumers more deeply than ever before.
A I N S L I E WA L K E R TA L K S
NICHE FRAGRANCE NEWS Next Level, Luxury Niche Marketing
#perspectivesergelutens is a new immersive digital, luxury brand experience from Serge Lutens launching globally throughout 2017. Business, marketing, culture and technology combined, spawns a surreal and emotive experience for consumers and in addition drives clients into store and allows the creator to become closer to clients. A world premiere in luxury business, clients see the world through Serge Lutens’ ‘avant-garde’ eyes, including delving into his inspirations, personality, creations, brand codes and history. Utilizing an augmented reality app, Facebook messenger bot experience, geolocation, unique camera filters, and 360-degree movie, Serge Lutens communicates the ultimate brand experience. An imaginary walk takes us through PalaisRoyale, the location of the flagship in Paris. Here we explore, collect codes and unlock a secret alcove, the imaginary house. Collection of all codes allows the prize of viewing a mind-blowing 360-degree film in which the viewer can explore an imaginary palace in Marrakesh. Features also include introductions to collections and a store finder. The experience can be shared on social media and is a fun interactive ‘game’ friends can play together, online or in Paris, discovering stylish places to visit around the Palais-Royale where codes can be collected. Mr Hassan SAAD, President of Serge Lutens visited Sydney in November to demonstrate the unique brand experience aimed at press, influencers, VIP clients, clients and 34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
prospective clients, worldwide (Pictured here, with me). The brand hopes to implement #perspectivesergelutens into Australia via Mecca Cosmetica. February 28th sees the Australian launch of Serge Lutens’ latest fragrance, Baptême du Feu into Mecca Cosmetica. Featuring notes of gingerbread, tangerine, osmanthus, woods and powder.
orange blossom flower, the favourite scent of King Louis XIV. Talented and accomplished perfumer, Kurkdjian was in Australia for the lavish opening party at the National Gallery in Canberra and to meet with press in Sydney, arranged by Mecca, Australia’s exclusive stockist.
Music and Scent
Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup - Guerlain Perfume Workshop
Scent of Memory, a beautiful fusion of scent and live musical performance was experienced over a number of sold-out evenings in November at the Yellow House Gallery, Potts Point, Sydney. The talented Australian Art Quartet and Carlos Huber of niche house Arquiste interwove seven fragrances from the collection, spoken words on each fragrance’s inspiration and history along with live string performances. The fragrances and Carlos’ carefully chosen words added a new dimension to the music, bringing the fragrances alive and captivating the audience.
Francis Kurkdjian Australian Visit and Scent Installation
Francis Kurkdjian visited Australia in early December to support the Versailles exhibition running from 9th December 2016 to mid April 2017 at the National Gallery of Australia, Canberra. Kurkdjian created a unique scent installation, exclusively for the event based on
Not strictly niche, Guerlain has historically inspired and set trends for niche and mainstream fragrance, cosmetics and beauty since its beginnings in 1828. Sylvaine Delacourte ‘Queen Bee’ and Creative Director of Fragrance for Guerlain visited Australia in November to launch the new luxury niche inspired fragrance, Neroli Outrenoire from the L’Art et Matière collection. Throughout her career with Guerlain, Sylvaine has broken through the traditions of the male dominated company and forged herself as a well-respected perfumer and Fragrance Art Director. Her Australian visit included a number of perfume creation workshops for VIPs and the Sydney Perfume Lovers Group in the glamorous setting, On Seven, David Jones, Sydney. All participants learnt about natural and raw materials specific to creating florals and created a Lily of the Valley and additional floral fragrance of their choice to take home. What an amazing experience to learn from one of the best female perfumers in the industry.
esprit Magazine promotion
Radiant skin
at any age
F
rom the very beginning radiant skin has been at the heart of Jurlique. By harnessing the power, purity and potency of nature Jurlique has created products that help replenish and restore the skin to its natural beauty and with that comes skin that exudes a healthy radiant glow. Ulrike Klein, Jurlique Co-founder, said: “The ‘Jurlique Glow’ is recognisable because the skin glows, radiates and is alive. Beauty is more than skin deep, it’s a radiance created by the combination of quality skincare, health and wellbeing.” Danielle Williams, Jurlique Education Specialist ANZ, explains: “At Jurlique we know that radiantly healthy skin makes women feel confident, beautiful and filled with vitality. But we also recognise that over time our skin changes and so does its needs. What once worked on our skin, may not provide us with the same results and skin confidence as before.” With this is mind Jurlique has harnessed the healing power of nature to create three unique anti-ageing rituals to ensure radiance at every age. “As we age collagen production and the elasticity in our skin decreases, which can lead to lines, wrinkles and loss of plumpness. “The impact of environmental aggressors, such as UV rays and pollution, can also take its toll in the form of dull and dry skin, dark circles under the eyes, sun spots, pigmentation, and more pronounced wrinkles,” says Williams.
Experience radiance Each of Jurlique’s anti-ageing ranges feature a powerful, expertly formulated blend of concentrated botanicals to meet the skin’s needs, as it changes over time, and promote radiance. Herbal Recovery - targets the first signs of ageing. Formulated to help protect the skin from premature ageing in the form of fine lines, devitalised skin and dehydration. The Herbal Recovery range features potent antioxidants and a myriad of botanicals including Rose, Viola Extract along with Licorice and Marshmallow Root Extracts. Purely Age Defying - addresses the visible signs of ageing. Smoothes the appearance of lines and wrinkles, targets loss of firmness, elasticity and helps improve skin tone. It harnesses the anti-ageing benefits of Buriti Oil, Willow Bark Extract and Beech Tree Bud - combined with the moisturising properties of Macadamia Oil, Meadowfoam Seed and Jojoba Oils. Nutri-Define - focuses on targeting the advanced signs of ageing, from deep lines and wrinkles, to sagging and uneven skin tone and texture. It features Jurlique’s five proprietary age-fighting ingredients (Horseradish, Mulberry Root, Rosemary, Peppermint Leaf, and Glycogen), chosen for their antioxidant, skin firming and revitalising benefits; all of which are encapsulated in a scientifically-proven delivery system (Biosome5). This ensures the active ingredients are delivered deep within the skin to where they are needed most.
While much of Jurlique’s popularity centres on its South Australian heritage, signature rose scent and unmistakable connection with nature, those who really know the brand celebrate its ability to deliver radiant skin to any age. As part of the 2017 campaign strategy, Jurlique is using beautiful, natural faces to demonstrate the effectiveness of the power of nature. For a brand that has traditionally featured ingredients in its marketing visuals, incorporating faces is a different approach but one that truly showcases the efficacy of Jurlique’s botanicals and the power of nature - the result being visibly radiant skin. It also offers customers a face to identify with.
Connecting with nature through ritual “Jurlique believes that beauty is something which comes from within; it’s about feeling good about yourself and being confident. “As such, our skincare products focus not only on more radiant and visibly healthier skin, but also on providing a greater sense of wellbeing, through a deep connection to the healing powers of nature. The Jurlique ritual allows customers to experience this,” says Williams. “From our very first skincare ritual, we are really beginning an anti-ageing routine. “Yet funnily enough, the biggest skincare misconception that women have is that one miracle product will be the answer to all of their skincare concerns. To achieve truly exceptional results it requires commitment and a carefully constructed, personalised beauty ritual. This doesn’t mean that the ritual is complicated, just expertly crafted to use carefully chosen ingredients and products that are best for your skin and stage of life.” ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|35
BOLD RUSH The beauty landscape changed dramatically last year. Coty’s acquisition of more than 40 Procter & Gamble brands was one of the largest transactions in cosmetic history and the multinational’s new structure was announced in early October. Helmed by CEO Camillo Pane, Coty leap-frogged from being the world’s ninth largest beauty company to the global leadership ranking of number three. By Elisabeth King
ideology - Beauty Liberated - we believe that beauty comes from diversity and we build brands to inspire and enable consumers to experience confidence and joy in expressing their individuality”.
With a new global logo - a butterfly - to signify the huge metamorphosis, Coty has restructured into three main divisions: Coty Consumer Beauty, Coty Luxury and Coty Professional Beauty. General Manager, Peter Rigby, heads Coty Consumer Beauty in Australia, the largest division with a portfolio of some of the biggest names in makeup, bodycare, hair colourants and celebrity fragrances - Bourjois, Rimmel, COVERGIRL, Sally Hansen, Max Factor, Clairol, David Beckham fragrances, Katy Perry fragrances, Beyoncé parfums, Adidas grooming, Playboy fragrances, J Lo fragrances, Guess fragrances and Vera Wang fragrances We have a mass channel focus, says Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ, and will bring our new winning culture and structure to grocery, pharmacy and mass retailers. “With our new brand
Ramping Up Market Leaders Rimmel is the number three cosmetics brand in Australia and number one in the UK. Social media influencers have put a focus on brows and the brand has hired Cara Delevingne, “the most famous brows in the world”. Rimmel is also celebrating 15 years with Kate Moss, says Smith. “In February, Rimmel will debut a new matte version of the best-selling The Only 1 lipstick, which combines the depth of matte with the colour, moisture and staying power of the original. Cara will ignite interest in Rimmel’s brow gel with argan oil, launching in March along with a waterproof version of Scandaleyes Reloaded mascara and Bold Flick liner”. Sally Hansen, the number one nail brand in Australia, broke new ground in 2015 with the biggest cosmetics launch of the year - Miracle Gel. The brand leads the way in bringing 1
innovation to the nail category and Sally Hansen will push the envelope further with the launch of Color Therapy in March. “The range is an amazing combination of colour and care while you wear”, says Smith. “Dry, dehydrated nails will be a thing of the past because Color Therapy polishes contain argan oil to moisturise nails at the same time. An oilinfused top coat and elixir deliver a salon spa treatment at home”.
Bourjois On A Roll Coty acquired the Bourjois brand from Chanel in 2015. The number three cosmetics brand in Paris with a century-plus heritage, cult innovations include Rouge Edition Velvet, a leader in the liquid matte lip sector, and Healthy Mix foundation. We’ve only just begun with Bourjois, says Smith. “In the second half following Coty’s total involvement in Jan, sales increased 33 per cent. From April, we will roll out new 1800 units in Priceline stores, with unique feminine features designed to resemble a French girl’s boudoir”. The bronzed look doesn’t lose steam at the end of summer, so Coty is launching two Bourjois products in January – Delice de 2
3
36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Poudre bronzing powder and Delice de Poudre Duo bronzing powder plus highlighter in easyto-stow chocolate scented compacts. To put a further bounce in sales, Bourjois BB Bronzing Cream 8 in 1 comes in two shades - fair and dark - packed with sunscreen and round-theclock hydration, plus new Strobing Highlighter with light reflecting pearl gel formula. March is all about convenience - and style - at Bourjois. We are launching the most chic eye palette on the market, says Smith. “It’s called La Palette Les Nudes and features eight shades and a 360 degree swiveling mirror for women on the go. Bourjois’ new Volume Reveal mascara, also launching in March, comes with a 3 x zoom mirror integrated into the design”.
50 Per Cent Market Share in Celebrity Fragrance Australia remains a strong market for celebrity fragrances and Coty boasts a 50 per cent market share. David Beckham is the number one celebrity fragrance for men and recently extended into grocery with the Fine Fragrance Deodorant range. Beckham’s first fragrance Instinct sold 10 million bottles in its first 10 years, says Smith. “In February, Coty is launching an extension of this number one seller called Made of Instinct. Katy Perry is the number two celebrity fragrance for women in Australia. We recently launched Mad Love
in the lead-up to Christmas and she may be visiting Australia this year combined with another fragrance launch. Other powerhouse brands in our celebrity fragrance portfolio include Beyoncé, J Lo, Guess, Vera Wang and Jovan”. Beyond celebrity fragrances, Coty’s bodycare brands - Playboy and Adidas - are a major force in the global sector. Adidas is the number one personal care brand for sports fans fueled by anti-perspirant deodorants. The multinational calls Playboy a global empire brand for its appeal to younger consumers in search of value-for-money yet sophisticated scents.
Major Plans For New Recruits Heading Coty’s new recruits from Procter & Gamble is COVERGIRL. The number two makeup brand in the US, COVERGIRL has pushed the boundaries in recent months by announcing its first male face - James Charles, the 17 year old makeup artist and Internet sensation - and its first Muslim ambassador Nura Afia. Then there’s the Katy Perry connection, says Smith. “She is the number one most followed celebrity in the world with more than 220 million followers. Katy is the definitive covergirl and is highly involved in the design and production of the ranges with the brand. Throughout the Coachella festival, for example, she actively wore and supported
COVERGIRL on her social channels. We are so excited to be finally launching the new Katy Kat Matte lipsticks in Australia. Available in 11 shades, including Black Panther, the lineup was the number one lip launch in the US last year. Also launching are two Katy Kat Eye mascaras, including the hugely popular Perry Blue”. Max Factor, also a former P&G stablemate, remains a global force. The fabled brand is number two in China and number four in the UK. Coty recently entered a landmark partnership, says Smith. “Max Factor was the official makeup partner of the Victoria’s Secret show in Paris. Stella Maxwell has just joined her fellow angel, Candice Swanepoel, as an ambassador for the brand. EPIC False Lash Effect mascara, the official mascara of the Victoria’s Secret Paris runways will launch in Australia in February to underline the new positioning”. The acquisition of Clairol Nice ‘n’ Easy pitches Coty into the retail hair colour market for the first time. The number one permanent home hair colour brand in Australia is also destined to grab a larger share of the spotlight. There’s a fun and insightful local digital campaign with over 8 Million views called Beat the Annoying Greys, says Smith. “That’s only the starting point for the big plans Coty has in the pipeline for this global powerhouse brand”.
5
1: Coty Consumer Beauty Marketing team 2: Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ 3: Peter Rigby, GM Coty Consumer Beauty with team members: Cassie Cross and Ainslie Tebbs 4: Rimmel The Only 1 Matte lipstick 5: Sally Hansen Color Therapy 6: Katy Perry’s Katy Kat makeup
4 6
DELIVERING THE
DIFFERENCE By Deb Hunt
In the eight years since BrandPoint was started by fragrance and skincare gurus Pat McCarthy and Sean Lane the company has enjoyed rapid growth and consistent success. Last year’s appointment of new GM Jonathan Cullen ramped up operations even further, promising to deliver an exciting future for any retailer or brand associated with this Australian success story.
PuraSonic ViVA!
BrandPoint has built a reputation for consistently delivering brands that customers love and retailers profit from, supplying everything from premium fragrance to affordable hair and prestige skin care ranges. Their successful formula has brought win after win for their own brands, for licensed brands and co-branded products across many sectors of the health, beauty and fragrance market. Last year’s collaboration with Priceline’s own colour cosmetics brand, Models Prefer, saw the new Samantha Jade cosmetics range launched in November 2016 practically sell out within the first three weeks. It was thanks in part to the work of a team that knows how to develop, design, manufacture, distribute and market across multiple touch points. “We back the brands that we develop and distribute because we believe in them,” says Jonathan. Customers believe in them too. When it comes to new product development BrandPoint conducts its own version of clinical 38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Twist and Mist refillable fragrance atomisers
trials, so any claims they make can be fully substantiated. “The hardest thing for a brand to gain is trust. Once you’ve got it, you’ve got repeat purchases.” When considering the launch of a new brand, Jonathan and his team conduct extensive market research. “We look for the gaps. If there are no gaps, we look at unique selling points. It might be functionality, packaging or price point. We won’t launch our own brand, or anyone else’s, unless we’re sure there’s a good chance of success.” And that success is never taken for granted. The PuraSonic skin cleansing device that BrandPoint developed and launched in 2015 had all the functionality and capability of the market leader, yet it retailed at less than half the price. Whilst not revealing exact figures, BrandPoint is very confident it was the #1 selling sonic skin cleansing device in its first year!
But even as PuraSonic flew off the shelves BrandPoint was already working on a new version. PuraSonic ViVA! was ergonomically designed to be smaller, more travel friendly and more fashionable. As Jonathan points out, staying ahead of the game is one of the biggest challenges in a fast moving, ever changing market. “We always want to know what can we do better?” The team’s experience in product development, manufacturing, distribution, merchandise and marketing, coupled with low overheads and a highly responsive network of suppliers, makes them ideally placed to respond to the changing needs of the market. “Big retailers can sometimes get bogged down in development and manufacturing when we have the resources to develop, market and deliver products for them, with the right
branding, message and educational piece in a single package.” In other words, they reduce the risk and increase the opportunity. With the beauty category getting younger all the time the savvy team at BrandPoint spotted an opportunity that was too good to miss when they snapped up the exclusive Australian and New Zealand license to distribute Shopkins, the number one girl licence globally. In 2016 they oversaw the successful launch of the first Shopkins range incorporating toothbrushes, body washes, bubble baths, hair detanglers and more. BrandPoint’s own Jessica Mauboy ‘Be Beautiful’ fragrance was another win for the company. They handled every aspect of the design, manufacture, marketing, publicity and national roll-out in 2015 and it earned them the number one slot for celebrity fragrance launches that year. One of their strengths is aligning products with customers, adding value with marketing and PR to drive customers into stores: “Every one of our brands has its own advertising and promotional budget and its own unique marketing strategy.” The strategic mix could involve beauty bloggers and vloggers, sponsored posts or takeovers on social media. It might involve consumer media or more traditional catalogue advertising and it will invariably include a huge amount of merchandising and point of sale, as well as below the line and targeted promotional discounts.
“Shelf space is such a premium at retail, so we always think of what will deliver the biggest return per square metre, from floor standing units to counter displays to shelf-ready trays.” As one example, BrandPoint’s Twist and Mist refillable fragrance atomisers offered retailers 36 units with a RRP of $14.95, all packaged in a neat counter display with a footprint the size of an A4 piece of paper. Members of the BrandPoint senior team travel extensively overseas, visiting trade fairs and retailers to make sure their products cut through the clutter. “You can search the internet all you like but nothing beats visiting a store,” says Jonathan. “That’s when you see what’s moving and what sells. You also quickly spot what’s marked down because it’s not moving.” Such experience is invaluable when it comes to new product development and the travel has another benefit too, allowing them to form partnerships with factories across the globe. “That’s a big part of being able to bring a new product to market at a lower cost,” says Jonathan. The team at BrandPoint thrives on new projects and there are plenty in the pipeline. A new manicure/pedicure device has been developed with all the functionality of the market leader, yet at full retail it will cost less than half the price, and there are growth plans for partnering with a major retailer on exclusive licensed Ford and Holden body products.
esprit Magazine promotion
“
We always want to know what can we do better?
“
As experts in identifying and launching new and unique brands - and then growing them into category leaders - BrandPoint has partnered with every major retailer nationwide, giving them unrivalled insight into retail, professional and online channels. Not surprisingly BrandPoint is regularly approached by international brands looking for distribution in the Australian market. “Our goal is to deliver brands that meet the needs of the customer and drive profitability for the retailer,” says Jonathan. That’s surely the holy grail of retail.
To find out more contact: BrandPoint Pty Ltd 22 Central Park Avenue Ashmore, QLD 4214 Tel +61755646767 www.brandpoint.com.au
BRAND POINT With Manicure & Pedicure devices well understood by shoppers, Style Salon products are the ideal incremental purchase in-store, offering market leading quality at affordable prices
|39
SENSITIVE
IS NOT A SKIN TYPE Sensitivity is a characteristic that can affect all skin types, from dry to acne-prone skin. This sensitivity makes the skin more vulnerable to a variety of factors, meaning extra care is required when selecting a daily skincare regime. DID YOU KNOW?
UP TO
67%
OF AUSTRALIAN WOMEN CLAIM TO HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN^
a minimalist
formula is a must RACHEL MCADAM, Medical Relations Manger, La Roche-Posay
Less is more when it comes to formulations for sensitive skin. Some ingredients to avoid include:
1. Alcohol Particularly in high concentrations can cause redness to occur, as well as remove the skin’s biological oils. Tip: these types of alcohols can be listed as “Alcohol Denat.”, “Ethanol”, “Ethyl Alcohol” or “Alcohol”.
2. Fragrance
NEW
Certain groups of fragrance molecules can be linked to allergies. Tip: select fragrance free where possible or hypoallergenic fragrances.
^Usage & Awareness Study 2016 40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
La Roche-Posay Ultra Micellar Reactive Skin 200ml RRP $25.95 Available Feb 2017 La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra 40ml RRP $39.95
Voice
esprit Magazine promotion
OF THE PHARMACY With sensitive skin so prevalent amongst the Australian population, there is an increasing demand for pharmacies to offer specialised advice and products.
Q&A
on sensitive skin with Pharmacy Technician Angelique Rambaund
Q. WHAT DO YOU THINK ARE THE TRIGGERS AND CAUSES OF SENSITIVE SKIN? A. Using harsh products, the weather, or it can be hereditary.
Q. WHY DO YOU RECOMMEND DERMOCOSMETICS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN? A. Because they are very gentle and take care of sensitive skin.
Q. WHAT SIGNS OR SYMPTOMS CHARACTERISE SENSITIVE SKIN? A. Redness, thin skin, atopic skin.
Q. WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR SENSITIVE SKIN? A. In the morning and evening cleanse the skin, apply soothing thermal spring water, and moisturise the skin. Use a lighter moisturiser during the day, with a SPF50+ sunscreen, and a richer moisturiser formula at night time to meet the needs of your skin type.
Q. WHAT TYPE OF ADVICE DO YOU GIVE CUSTOMERS WITH SENSITIVE SKIN? A. To use dermocosmetic brands, hypoallergenic products and fragrance free formulas.
SENSITIVE SKIN ESSENTIALS REFRESH
REPLENISH
Gentle cleansing is an essential first step for sensitive skin; however cleansers can contain irritating ingredients, such as harsh detergents. Micellar waters can be a good option for sensitive skin as they use micelle technology to gently but effectively capture dirt and impurities. However, not all Micellar waters are created equal.
After cleansing, a moisturiser is a critical next step in caring for sensitive skin. When selecting a moisturiser ensure it is made for sensitive skin and meets the needs of your skin type without any potential irritants.
Consider La Roche-Posay’s new Ultra Micellar Water for Reactive skin. It has been specifically formulated without the need for harsh ingredients. The formula cleanses effectively, without the inclusion of soap, sulphates, alcohol, colourants or parabens. Enriched with Glycerin, the formula leaves the skin feeling cleansed, comfortable and refreshed.
The La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra range has a strict formulation charter with minimal ingredients to reduce the risk of skin reactivity. With 0% preservatives, colourant, fragrance, lanolin, parabens and alcohol, the range is housed in Ultra Hermetic packaging, keeping it free from air or contamination. The range offers hydration for various skin types, providing instant and lasting comfort to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|41
OUT & ABOUT
1
ANNA BAMFORD faces DR. LEWINN’S
Dr. LeWinn’s has introduced Anna Bamford as its brand ambassador. The talented, beautiful and down-
to-earth actress is best known for her role as Miranda on hit TV show, Wonderland, for which she received a Logie Award nomination for Most Outstanding Newcomer. Anna tells media guests: “I am delighted to be working with Dr. LeWinn’s, a brand I’ve known and loved for many years. Looking after my skin has always been paramount and Dr. LeWinn’s offer beautiful and highly effective products. They are an essential part of my skincare regime.” “Anna was the perfect choice for Dr. LeWinn’s. She is a true embodiment of the brand; she is of course strikingly beautiful however with Anna there is so much more. She’s also intelligent, creative and incredibly passionate - values that we hold very high,” confirms Janelle Skropidis, Marketing Manager for Dr. LeWinn’s. Anna’s position with Dr. LeWinn’s will see her as the face of the latest innovation from the brand, the Eternal Youth range and appearing in the locally produced TVC.
glow year-round. With Aveda’s The Art and Science of Pure Flower and Plant Essences new Tulasāra Wedding Masques Overnight that’s the promise: to wake up to weddingday skin every day with the help of powerful masques for face and eye that are formulated to work at night while skin is at rest for brighter skin the following morning and firmer looking skin over time. Inspired by the Haldi beauty ritual from India,
2
which is a key part of the Hindu wedding ceremony, both masques deliver wedding-day skin in a way that has been time-tested in Ayurveda, the ancient healing art of India. “Haldi refers to the paste that is used in the traditional Indian wedding Haldi ceremony which is a mixture of turmeric (Haldi means turmeric in Sanskrit), chickpea powder, and rose water,” explains Divyesh Patel, Aveda Director of Skin Care Research and Development. “During the ceremony, family
3 1: Guest speaker, Jagruti Behan talks Ayurvedic inspired wedding day skin 2: Lisa Patulny – Byrdie, Sigourney Cantelo – beauticate and Cassidy Loane - Cosmopolitan 3: Clint Piper – Aveda and Andrea Ferrari – esprit Magazine
members who are already married spread the paste onto the face, hands, arms, legs and feet of the bride and groom the day before the wedding as an offering of good luck. Turmeric is a known skin brightener, so the Haldi helps the bride and groom look their best on the big day. It is even said that if the bride or groom
CHLOE MORELLO COLLABS WITH
REVLON CONTOUR
touches an unmarried person of marrying age with the Haldi, he or she will be the next to tie the knot!” The
97%
naturally-derived*
Tulasāra
Wedding Masque Overnight ultra-rich creme masque and the 97% naturally-derived* Tulasār Wedding Masque Eye Overnight ultra-rich creme masque just for the eye area are being introduced to customers with a ritual involving sweeping movements and breathing in the aroma. Aveda unveiled the pair at a beauty press lunch hosted by Brand General Manager, Clint Piper and including a presentation from Jagruti Behan, recently married in India. Anna Bamford at McPherson’s press day where she debuted as brand ambassador for Dr. LeWinn’s
WEDDING DAY RADIANCE
In clinical testing, 100% of women instantly showed brighter skin** with the Tulasāra Wedding Masque Overnight and Tulasāra Wedding Masque Eye Overnight, while 85% of women showed a reduction in the look of dark circles around the eyes** with Tulasāra Wedding Masque Eye Overnight. * From plants, non-petroleum minerals or
Inspired by the radiance a bride exudes on her
water. Learn more at aveda.com.au
wedding day, Aveda has been in R&D working
** In clinical testing, after 8 weeks
on the possibility of achieving that luminous 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
“If it’s good enough for Chloe Morello – one of Australia’s most popular beauty influencers – then it’s good enough for me.” In an Australian and New Zealand Cosmetics Industry first, Revlon has collaborated with Ms Morello, to co-develop its new Revlon Sculpt + Highlight Contour Kit. With design and formula input from Chloe, each kit is suitable for virtually any skin tone and is available in two shades – Light/Medium and Medium/Tan. Chloe was guest presenter at the media launch, prior to on counter date. “Contouring and highlighting the face can enhance bone structure and give the illusion of higher cheek bones, larger lips, lifted brow bones,” says Chloe Morello, an International Beauty Blogger with a personal touch. Using Revlon’s BlendFX™ technology, the powders not only
sculpt and highlight where applied but also help blur imperfections. Created to be unlike overly complex kits with six shades, and be more sophisticated than those with only two, Revlon’s Sculpt + Highlight Contour Kit™ contains four shades: Banana – to conceal, Glow – to highlight, Bronze – to add warmth and Sculpt – to define. RRP $24.95.
General Manager, Emmerentia Wilding, took place at Cirrus Dining at Sydney’s new ‘entertainment’
destination,
Barrangaroo.
Here beauty media had the opportunity to sample the products and hear directly about the science and sensoriality of this luxe line. Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth Crème, 50ml $420.00; Ultimate Lift Regenerating
1
Youth Crème Gelée 50ml $420.00; Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth Serum 30ml $420.00; 2
Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth Eye Crème 15ml, $270.00. Available now at selected Estée Lauder counters nationwide.
M·A·C LIPTENSITY Liptensity Lipstick is a truly full-of-colour collection from M· A· C . From coal black to bright red, M· A· C has created a bold spectrum of 24 shades with extreme colour intensity, using its groundbreaking High-Frequency Tetrachromatic Pigments technology. Presenting to the media before its on-counter launch late last year, Jodie Matthews - Brand General Manager said: “It is the most modern texture that captures both the newest technology and science. Liptensity introduces
1
innovative technology, offering our most intense colour pay off yet with a brand new
3
cushiony gel texture. Each Lipstick holds
4
enhanced amounts of pigment than traditional 2
formulas, for a full impact, highly saturated lip look. The new gel formula melts and hugs lips
5
on contact for even coverage and impact in just one stroke.” Ultimate sensorial experience for cushion and comfort while keeping strong,
3
clear colour. On counter now, RRP $46.00. Nicole Thompson – Senior Artist at M· A· C
4 1: Revlon’s Simone Cunico and Marisa Laria 2: Andrea Ferrari – esprit Magazine and Sabrina Melei – makeupbourdoir.com.au 3: Erin Cook - Cosmo, Laura Wilson – OK & NW and Sheree Mutton - AWW 4: Anna Lavdaras – Harpers and Iantha Yu – Beauty Crew 5: Chloe Morello
showed media just what is possible with a range of the lippies with make-overs. Her key 5
Estée Lauder is evolving its luxury skincare franchise Re-Nutriv with new Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth Collection for face and eyes. All four products in the line include the exclusive Floralixir Dew. Created with two precious flowers known to thrive in the bitter cold of the Himalayas and the desolate highlands of Brazil, their potency magnified by the power of Re-Nutriv science, the Floralixir Dew helps reawaken skin’s innate powers of visible regeneration and youthful renewal. Skin looks dramatically more lifted and firmer as natural collagen production increases. A stunning radiance is revealed. A beauty media gathering hosted by Brand
gives moisture but doesn’t grab onto the dry bits. In time-honoured makeup artist style, Nic customised the lip look with her choice of lip liner and lipgloss finish – and revealed her
6
tip for longer lasting lippy – “to dust lips with powder first”. On counter now, $46.00. 1
LAUDER LIFTS WITH NEW RE-NUTRIV
points were that the gel base holds the colour,
1: Kate Gildea - Communications Manager and Sarah Maher - Communications Executive, both Estée Lauder, AERIN & Tom Ford Beauty 2: Sarah Ward: Marketing & Education Coordinator, Estée Lauder & AERIN; Erin Shanahan - Junior Product Manager - Estée Lauder Fragrance, Holiday & AERIN; Barbora Hrda - Marketing & Education Coordinator, Tom Ford Beauty; Aurelie Suyker - Product Manager - Skincare, Estée Lauder and Alicia Harvey - Marketing Assistant, Estée Lauder 3: Nica Marcello - National Education & Special Events Manager, Estée Lauder, AERIN & Tom Ford Beauty with Erin Shanahan and Sarah Ward 4: Andrea Ferrari – esprit Magazine with Rosemary Bracey – Beauty Directory and Renae Leith Manos – Bondi Beauty/www. renaesworld.com.au 5: Media gathering 6: Ricky Allen – Vogue with Leigh Campbell – Huffington Post and Sara McLean – www.grazia.com.au
2
1: Jodie Matthews - M·A·C Brand General Manager 2: Nicole Thompson – Senior Artist shows Liptensity in action
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|43
PRICELINE’S SMILE MAKER
healthy part of life. We want to remove the
process also creates a natural prebiotic and
unjustified stigma still attached to products
broad-spectrum probiotic. It’s what helps to
such as vibrators and are proud to partner
make Glow Advanced such a powerful health
with Priceline to make the Smile Makers range
and beauty booster.” On counter now, $59.95.
accessible to all women nationwide.” Read
Carla also launched a Cook Book founded on
more in Priceline’s Beauty Prescription, and
her belief that “Beauty begins in the belly,” she
for more information visit:
says. The recipes are geared towards gut health
http://priceline.com.au/brand/smile-makers.
to promote skin moisture/health/plumpness. Plans for 2017 include the evolution of the
BEAUTY BEGINS IN THE BELLY Dr. Christopher Fox (Sex Therapist at Sex Life Therapy), Liz Webster (Priceline), Dr. Nikki Goldstein (Sexologist and Relationship Expert), Gabby Tully (Priceline), Mattias Hulting (Ramblin’ Brands), Sarah Serle (Priceline)
Thirty
media,
bloggers
and
skincare range. 1
2
influencers
attended a launch event at Sydney’s Ivy Penthouse for Smile Makers, a leading sexual
Business coaches recommend we pat ourselves
wellbeing brand now exclusively available at
on the back in acknowledgement of our
Priceline Pharmacy.
wins along the way to bigger goals, which we
Guests included Kiki Morris and Keira
certainly celebrate. Achieving its fifth birthday,
Maguire from The Bachelor and they heard
The Beauty Chef ’s original and hero product,
from experts such as Dr. Chris Fox (Sex
Glow Inner Beauty Powder, was recognised
Therapist) who talked about physiological
with a reformulation which takes it to the next
effects and benefits of sexual activity on the
level. With scientific advances it’s smart to
body and mind. Dr. Nikki Goldstein (Sexologist
update a staple formula to make a favourite
& Relationship Expert) also spoke on findings
even better. Here the Beauty Powder provides
from research conducted by Smile Makers,
an improved bio-fermented super-food beauty
which surveyed Australian women on their
blend with more anti-oxidants, more minerals,
sexual wellbeing and perceptions.
more vitamins and extra probiotics designed to
The Smile Makers brand was created to
improve gut health and enhance the skin from
normalise sexual wellbeing products for
the inside out.
women. True to its mission, it is the only brand
Carla Oates, The Beauty Chef founder, held
in the category that cannot be found in adult
the attention of beauty writers as she presented
shops but instead is only sold in environments
the facts and figures on the link between gut
where women feel comfortable shopping. This
health and radiant, healthy skin. Now called
is why Smile Makers and Priceline Pharmacy
Glow Advanced, it helps synthesise collagen in
have partnered to bring this brand to the
the skin and helps contribute to normal skin
Australian market; Priceline is famous for
function as well as support digestive health.
being a store that women feel comfortable in
Carla is a fermenting fan and a champion
and know there are knowledgeable staff on
of probiotics, owing to their proven benefits.
hand, in a store environment that has been
“The naturally occurring probiotics in this
specifically designed for women.
fermented powder are much more powerful
Mattias Hulting, the co-founder of Ramblin’
than standard probiotics precisely because
Brands – the company behind Smile Makers
of the bio-fermentation process,” says Carla.
– said: “Our Australian launch follows the
“Our unique fermentation process, which
success of the Smile Makers brand across Asian
has more than 25 years of research and
and European markets. It is great to know we
development behind it, helps to break down
can meet the needs of Australian women and
the ingredients, which allows the nutrients to
help make sexual wellbeing a natural and
be more available for the body to use. This
44| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
1: Sara Donaldson – Harper & Harley with Carla 2: Sigourney Cantelo – beauticate, Carlie Fowler – The File and Carla
ULTRACEUTICALS CAMPAIGN FOR RESULTS
Each year, Ultraceuticals Australia launches a trademarked ANZ campaign called, RVR90 which stands for Real Visible Results in 90 days. The campaign was created to drive more awareness around the effectiveness of Ultraceuticals, heighten sales through clinics and have customers understand the treatment journey and commitment it takes to achieve desired results. A person’s skin journey is made up of a combination of homecare and in clinic treatments. 70% of outstanding skincare results are created through a homecare regime, while the remaining percentage is accomplished through in-clinic treatments. Through clinical trials, results should be seen within 90 days of a committed skincare regime. This program
destination for beauty,” says Sophie Kalofonos
awareness around their skin concerns with
– General Manager, Beauty at David Jones.
superior therapist experience. Ultraceuticals
ran
an
activity
3
The multi-platform campaign was activated find
in all stores with the beauty department
ambassadors for three skincare concerns. The
to
offering a range of exclusive offers across
winners were invited to a media event to show
multiple counters including master classes with
off their skin and share their story, including
Beauty Director for the David Jones Beauty
‘before’ photos: Lee Martin, Anti-Ageing;
Edit, Michael Brown. Gold partners for the
Sue-Ann Smith, Hyperpigmentation and
campaign, Laura Mercier, Lancôme and Yves
Maddison Lugsdin, Acne. Ultraceuticals’ Dr
Saint Laurent hosted Hotspot customer events.
Geoffrey Heber - founder, Xuan Henderson
Throughout the period there was a wide variety
- Marketing Director, Tracey Beeby – Head
of activations and appearances, specialist
of Education and Adrian J De Brock -
consultations, tips and tricks, complimentary
Public Relations Manager introduced the
products and services and gifts with purchase
Ambassadors at the press gathering.
from a range of David Jones’ best beauty
4
OUT & ABOUT
provides customers with vital education and
5
brands. Supporting the instore theatre, exclusive digital content was created in collaboration with the
1
face of Beauty Tribe, the hugely-subscribed-to YouTube beauty vlogger Lauren Curtis, and Michael Brown. Both Lauren and Michael 2
produced bespoke ‘How To’ videos using Laura Mercier, Lancôme and Yves Saint Laurent products shared across their own channels, while Michael collaborated on the David Jones Beauty Edit featuring a mix of products from brands such as Dermalogica, Elizabeth
Arden,
Guerlain,
La
Prairie,
Napoleon Perdis and Sisley. The two beauty experts were also in attendance at the opening
Photos: Brendan Thorne 1 : Lauren Curtis and Michael Brown 2 : The MaxConnectors team and influencers 3 : Helen Moreno – Clarins Group/Laura Mercier with Sophie Kalofonos and La Prairie’s Rosi Fernandez 4 : Sigourney Cantelo – Beauticate with Louise Francis and Kirsten Carriol – Lanolips 5 Napoleon Perdis’ Milena Mrkobrad and Peter Sintras
event. Sophie opened the event: “Last year’s campaign was a great success, and customers were highly engaged by the festival of instore eventing and digital content. It is a wonderful
3
opportunity for us to showcase the world class offering of beauty brands that are available at David Jones.” 4
1 : Head of Education, Tracey Beeby presents 2 : Maddison Lugsdin, Acne ambassador 3 : Adrian de Brock and Dr Geoffrey HeberUltraceuticals and Jenny Berich from Professional Beauty 4 : Xuan Henderson – Ultraceuticals and Eleanor Pendleton – grittypretty.com.au
LA PRAIRIE DUO FOR A LINELESS FUTURE
La Prairie’s new day and night cream is just that. In a single package of convenience the
1
luxury brand has paired a day cream in one chamber with a night cream in a twin chamber with two separate pumps. As its name suggests Line Interception Power Duo’s task is to tackle the three main types of lines with its promise of 24-hour cover. In 14 days of day
DAVID JONES BEAUTY TRIBE
and night usage, a difference can be seen. The formulation targets wrinkles at their inception
2
and helps to smooth them when they have already appeared. Taking care of the skin during the day there are the must-have UVA/
David Jones kicked off its second Beauty Tribe
UVB screens and also protection against IRA
Event with a celebration in store On Seven, its swish venue on the seventh floor. Beauty Tribe took place for three weeks prior to Christmas. “It places the department store as the ultimate
– Infra Red A. Its perfect partner is Anti-Aging 2
Rapid Response Booster which prepares the skin for optimum care and protection from the ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|45
OUT & ABOUT
“Inspired by nature, perfected by science”. Media were introduced to the little natural beauties at a launch hosted by former Miss Universe, Monika Radulovic. Specially custom catered by ‘Plated’ to include the elements of the new ChapStick flavours in mocktails while the venue was dressed in colourful balloons, beautiful florals and floating rose petals in the pool, completely reflective of the vibrant ChapStick brand and its new hydrating flavours. The 100% Natural Advanced Moisturisation
new Power Duo. The two chambers hold 25mls
with Argan oil, natural butters and Omegas 6
and are anticipated to last three months with
& 9 for healthier, youthful looking lips comes
recommended usage amounts. RRP $450.00
in Fresh Citrus and Honey Blossom. 100%
and on counter Feb 5th 2017.
Natural + Tint Advanced Moisturisation with
La Prairie’s Ai San Beaumont – PR &
Jojoba & Rosehip oils. Formulated to nourish
Marketing Manager and Belinda Besant -
and enhance natural lip colour in a choice of
National Training and Promotions Manager
Merlot and Rose Petal.
introduced beauty media to the product with a
ChapStick has made a science of understanding
virtual tour of the science driving the creation
lips’ unique needs. The result? Formulas
of this powerful anti-wrinkle duo-cream (seen
specifically designed to care for lips at every
below).
stage and age of life. RRP $7.99
BOBBI BROWN HOSTS AMY CONWAY
In time for Christmas Bobbi Brown welcomed one of its leading PRO Artists, Amy Conway (@bbpro_amyconway)
to
Australia
from
London, to conduct masterclasses and in-store events at five top Sydney and Melbourne locations. Amy demonstrated her elite artistry skills and ability to truly connect with her customers at David Jones Chadstone, David Jones Bourke Street, Myer Melbourne, Myer Sydney City and David Jones Elizabeth Street, Sydney.
1
2
MEN’S BIZ LAUNCHES
ONE THOUSAND & NINETYTWO AT PENDOLINO
IN CHAPSTICK NEWS
World-class men’s grooming store MEN’S BIZ celebrated the Australian launch of its 3
exclusive in-house collection of shaving and grooming hardware at The Strand Arcade’s Pendolino restaurant, showcasing the range to select editors and industry influencers. The event saw guests being taken on a journey by MEN’S BIZ founder Nathan Jancauskas
If any product has earned its weight in gold,
on the creation of the ethically produced
it’s the ultimate handbag staple, ChapStick.
well-designed, affordable and stylish grooming
Born in the 1800s, today it launches two premium additions to the ever-growing range. ChapStick Total Hydration – 100% Natural and 100% Natural + Tint with the tag line 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
1: Michael Brown – Michael Brown Beauty 2: Monika Radulovic 3: Rachael Brook – makeup artist and beauty content creator with Domenica Calarco, beauty and lifestyle vlogger
range. With over ten years’ experience in the grooming industry as the man responsible for bringing many of the world’s most prestigious men’s grooming brands to Australia, Nathan
has crafted a collection that provides men with a range of quality tools to enhance their routine shaving experience. Drawing its name from the duration the average gentleman spends shaving over the course of a lifetime, being approximately 1092 hours, the range is minimalistic in design and is crafted using the finest quality materials for shaving hardware. Made in Germany, the products utilise high-grade resin and feature steamed ash wood handles. The shave brush is designed using a synthetic bristle which is both vegan and cruelty free.
KRYOLAN OPENS
2 1
FIRST SYDNEY CONCEPT STORE
3
If the name and reputation of Kryolan has gone under your radar you’re probably not a makeup artist. Kryolan is a professional brand founded in 1945 in Berlin and today has a following of elite makeup artists worldwide. There’s been a concept store in Melbourne for 30 years but a new retail strategy sees further
1
concept stores popping up in Sydney and Brisbane. Opening the Sydney store located on the iconic Oxford Street strip in Darlinghurst, media learned a snapshot of the heritage from the founder’s son, Wolfram Langer, CEO, Kryolan 2
4
Global. “We’re thrilled to have officially launched in the Sydney consumer market with our beautifully designed store. Our team of professional makeup artists will be available and on hand to give each and every customer a full service experience.” A fan of bricks-andmortar stores Langer tells esprit Magazine: “It’s impossible to see true colours online where we
3
can’t control filters and lighting. You can only see the true colour when you apply it to the skin – how it looks on your own skin. Online 4
supports buying products you already know.” The complete Kryolan range will be available, with customers able to create bespoke colour
5 1: Kym Cowper and Sophie Howe beautyheaven 2: Sally Hunwick and Cassidy Loane Cosmopolitan and Delaney Loane - OK! and NW 3: Melanie Burnicle – Makeup Artist Guild Asia Pacific and Sharon Farrell – sharonthemakeupartist 4: Andrea Ferrari – esprit Magazine, Wolfram Langer, Kryolan Global, Michelle Ruzzene from Beauty Hacks and Anita Caffyn - Director of Kryolan 5: Becca Gilmartin, makeup artist and a fan of the brand
pallets of foundation, eyeshadow and lipsticks through to custom contouring kits. Services at the two-level store will include beauty & glamour make-up for special occasions, personal 5
make-up
lessons
for
beauty
consumers, camouflage makeup for medical conditions and special occasions; drag, avantgarde, characters and SFX makeup; advanced lessons & workshops for professionals in all facets of professional makeup. Interestingly Wolfram points out: “What most people don’t know is that they likely have a Kryolan developed and manufactured product already in their beauty staple. Over the past
1: Tom Hosking and James Want – The Versatile Gent 2: Nathan Jancauskas – MEN’S BIZ 3: One Thousand and Ninety Two 4: Elisabeth King – Men’s Style and esprit Magazine Australia with Frances Mocnik – AFR Luxury 5: David Novak Piper – Vogue Living and David Schmiedt – GQ
30 years, premium brands have been turning to Kryolan to manufacture their own branded makeup collections due to the premium result our formulations deliver.”
PENHALIGON’S PORTRAITS COLLECTIONS
Iconic English perfume house Penhaligon’s celebrated the Australian launch of its Portraits Collection with media events at the Hotel Centennial in Woollahra, presenting the scents and their lively story to a selection of editors, bloggers and industry influencers. Penhaligon’s has a globally regarded position as a leading British fragrance house, steeped in heritage, history and tradition. Close your eyes and imagine the perfumes that bear these names; The Tragedy of Lord George, The Revenge of Lady Blanche, The Coveted Duchess Rose and Much ado About The Duke. A tribute to the English spirit, between ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|47
establishment,
humour
and
provocation,
the collection centres on this fictional British aristocratic family with each scent representing a ‘Portrait’ or character. The
traditional
Penhaligon’s
bottle
is
reimagined with a gold-plated animal head as
AMOUAGE BRACKEN MAN & LILAC LOVE
1
AUSTRALIAN LAUNCH
the stopper. Each character in the unwritten novel is represented by its own talisman; Lord
Amouage’s Australian distributor Agence de
George is associated with a deer, his wife
Parfum briefed beauty media on the luxury
a tigress, Rose as the cunning fox, and her
brand’s new fragrance - Bracken Man and
husband the graceful greyhound.
Lilac Love - with a breakfast at Sydney’s
Penhaligon’s collaborated with award-winning
Bambini Trust.
artist Kristjana Williams to create the Portraits
Inspired by creative director Christopher
collection artwork. Interweaving fragments
Chong’s vision to create a vibrant and aromatic
of Victorian engravings with contemporary
freshness with vivid floral accords, the long
illustration and colouring, Kristjana creates
table showcased the two luxury fragrances
magical landscapes filled with impossible,
with elegant and refreshing floral and fern
exotic creatures.
arrangements, crafted by renowned event
Available at Libertine Parfumerie and selected
floral stylists Sticks & Wicks.
David Jones and Myer Galerie de Parfum
An elegant fougére, Bracken Man is the latest
boutiques.
addition to the Midnight Flower collection, inspired and named after Bracken, one of the
1
2
3
4
oldest and more resilient ferns in history. With a design mimicking the interpretation of fern with the scent, Amouage’s iconic clear glass crystal bottle features gold foil illustrations of a fern leaf surrounded with swirling vines behind the Amouage insignia.
2
Lilac Love is the first fragrance in The Secret Garden collection, capturing the true spirit of classical femininity in the modern woman. 3
Harmoniously recreating the lilac accord to express animalic and powdery tones with a melodious balance of jasmine and rose, Lilac Love delicately blends top notes of gardenia,
1: Alice Moore - Élysée Collective and Stephanie Darling - Sunday Life 2: Brittany Lane - Buro 24/7 and Chrisanthi Kaliviotis - The Carousel 3: Michael Edwards and Margaret Khoury Fragrances of The World 4: Gavin Sommer - Agence de Parfum and Steven Clarke - Australian Financial Review
peony and heliotrope. The feminine floral scent is refined with a gourmand heart of 4
orris, cocoa bean and tonka bean. The warm tone of sandalwood also lends its charismatic sensuality with the suave richness of patchouli
NESTING
AT SEPHORA
and soft facets of vanilla, creating a timeless floral symphony with a romantic musky veil. See the bottle below. Available at Libertine Parfumerie, through selected David Jones department stores and other niche perfumeries in Australia and New 1: The Portraits Collection 2: Melissa Mason – Primped, Sarah Bristow – beauty directory, Yelena Fairfax – husskie, Iantha Yu – Beauty Crew and Chloe Brinklow – TOMBOY beauty 3: Andrea Ferrari – esprit Magazine and Gavin Sommer – Agence de Parfum 4: Michael Marzano – Agence de Parfums (centre right) and Michael Edwards – Fragrances of the world (centre left) at the presentation 48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Zealand.
Laura Slatkin, founder of Nest luxury fragrance for the home and body, flew in from the US to launch her brand into Sephora. Not new to the land of luxe, Laura and her husband founded one of America’s first luxury home fragrance brands, Slatkin & Co. Nest has created private
couture houses. Nest Fine Fragrance collection pays attention to every detail from the highest quality ingredients to the exquisite packaging. Each EdP is RRP $105.00, 50ml and EdP Rollerball, RRP $38.00. At Sephora. Seen here is Laura in Sydney and her fragrances.
inspired by the late ‘70s in
DECADENT AUSTRALIAN LAUNCH
Mexico’s Acapulco and have both a beach and glamorous sexy disco vibe, so are sure to be a success in Australia.
FOR ARQUISTE IN SYDNEY
OUT & ABOUT
label home fragrances for leading fashion and
By Ainslie Walker Carlos Huber / Arquiste launched new duo, El and Ella for the brand in Sydney with a decadent evening of champagne and cocktails overlooking an infinity pool and Sydney Harbour from the balcony of La Piscine, a Contemporary Hotel. The event, in conjunction with Arquiste’s exclusive Sydney stockist, Becker Minty attracted many familiar faces from the industry, all dressed inspired by the glamorous jet setters of the late ‘70s. El is aimed at men and Ella aimed at women. It’s slightly unusual now in niche as the majority is launched to both sexes. The fragrances are
can literally change the way you feel about
THE LOBE DOWN ON ANTI-AGEING
yourself and how others view you.” Sharon tells us. Cosmetic enhancements have made enormous advances over the past few years, now reflecting a much more natural result.
By Andrea Ferrari
For this reason it is advisable always to see a trusted, well-qualified expert such as Sharon,
When a girlfriend was telling me about a
who has the authority to both prescribe and
new client of hers doing a photoshoot for an
administer medications appropriate to the
anti-ageing beauty procedure and she needed
cosmetic treatment devised, after a thorough
a model, my ears pricked up. Literally, as it
consultation and assessment of the client.
turned out. With the focus on faces when it comes to ageing and beauty, the aestheticians are widening our view by taking in the ears too. As we age the earlobes come on the journey
Specialising in the face, Finesse offers the
BEFORE
following anti-wrinkle injections and dermal filler treatments:
with us. Gravity affects them just as it does
• Reduce lines and wrinkles
our faces, and a few other bits and pieces…
• Restore volume
knees included! By skilfully using some filler,
• Reshape and contour
Sharon Griffiths RN, RM, MSc, MN (NP)
AFTER
can rejuvenate ‘sad’ droopy ears and minimise enlarged piercings to bring them back to their former glory. Earrings hang straight again and don’t fall out. See the result here of my before and after. They’re a bit pink from the procedure but that settled down after a couple of days and I am thrilled with my neat new lobes. I really like the firmness - Sharon describes it as “support” – which means the earrings don’t weigh the lobes down. I’d go so far as to say they are pert!
• Smooth skin texture Finesse Cosmetic face and skin clinic has
With her alphabet of letters after her name,
private rooms in Manly, Wheeler Heights and
Sharon is expertly qualified. With a midwifery
Cromer. For further information or to make an
background, Sharon is the first nurse to qualify
appointment please call +61 421 083 035 or
as a Registered Cosmetics Nurse Practitioner,
go to finessecosmetics.com.au
in NSW. Based on the northern beaches she’s the owner and founder of Finesse Cosmetics. “I am fascinated how a little cosmetic enhancement ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|49
GINA LIANO
5 minutes with…
NICCI HERRERA TALKS WITH THE MOTHER, WIFE, BARRISTER, CELEB AND FRAGRANCE CREATOR... Who is Gina, and why so many hats? As a woman we might be a wife, a sister, a daughter and a mother, on top of that most of us embark on a profession or career of some sort. So, if we want to have children, we have got to juggle all those things. I just happened to be sidetracked along the way because I wanted to do law, but then I loved fashion and I loved the arts. I studied at university, I did a law degree, a visual arts degree and a marketing degree for my Bachelor of Business. I was always business-driven and then there was law on the other side. I was a property developer for a long time as well when I had children, and then I was approached to do The Real Housewives [of Melbourne]. I hadn’t really thought of being in entertainment; it sort of found me rather than I found it. I have written a book about my life…so that ended up being another hat. I suppose if I didn’t feel that I was up for it, I would have said no.
How did the conversation start with the creation of Gina by Gina Liano - your first fragrance release? I had already been investigating developing a fragrance and we had started to work on the key notes. A few months later, I happened to get a call from Chemist Warehouse and they asked me if I would be interested in developing a fragrance with them and Bondi Perfume Co. I said that it’s interesting that you are asking me that because I have started working on one. I had already worked out the notes that I wanted and the scent. I had already developed a logo and I was already a brand, effectively. I had launched a shoe range and a bag range, and I was working on the fragrance. So when I met with them I gave them the information that I had already compiled into the development of a fragrance.
How hands-on are you in this business and creation of the fragrance? Very much hands-on with the whole process, because this isn’t an endorsement. It carries my brand and represents me. I wanted to make sure that something as intimate as a scent really captured something that I love.
50| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Who is the Fearless woman, for your 2nd scent? Well I think I was trying to capture the essence of my life with the name Fearless. Because fearless to me is not having no fear, it’s coming to a point in your life where you can rise above fear and so that’s the philosophy behind it. I think most people have had enough challenges when they get to a certain age. Women, young girls, who have had challenges in their life, and that’s really how they come out - fearless. Having experienced that, I have no fear of it anymore because it’s happened. But when it comes down to nuts and bolts, it’s about whether you like the scent and I’m hoping a lot of people like it. That’s one of the things I focused on when I developed the fragrance, is whether it would have a broad appeal.
Pricing is $39. How important in business is price setting and why? Well for me it was important to get the right price because I wanted to make it accessible to everybody. I didn’t want to build a brand that was hard to access through price. I wanted to create desire in the market to have it, a want, like a Gucci handbag. Where you know that not everybody can afford it, so it naturally makes it desirable because you want it. I didn’t feel that I needed that for my brand. In a way, I think it was me giving back. I had such an outpouring of love and support from followers and people on social media going through The
Image credits Opposite: Gina Liano by Sam Tabone from The A List Photographers. Below: Gina Liano by Maurice Rinaldi. Bottom right: Gina launches Fearless fragrance at Chemist Warehouse, Parramatta with the team there, Kerry Hatem, Elias Wehbe and Nathan Viranian.
Real Housewives of Melbourne because it was quite a difficult time for me, in particular the first season. I thought, you know what, I would like to give something back and this is one way of doing it. Fortunately I could with the help of Chemist Warehouse because of volume. I have had people writing to me when the first fragrance came out saying: “You know, I’d just run out of perfume, I’m a single mum and I needed a new fragrance and I was so excited when I saw your fragrance that I could afford it, I saved up for it, but I could afford it”. They were thrilled and I love that. If it sold for $100 a bottle, the margin would be bigger and better, but that’s not my motivation. My motivation was to have something out there that was accessible.
You are a successful brand, can you share advice to future brand makers? I believe the really important thing is that your brand is “your promise”, and whatever it is you are branding, becomes you. So if you brand a product, let’s say this perfume bottle was plastic and horrible, that would become me. So my promise is I am who I am, and I’m going to deliver something to you that even if you don’t love it, it’s not because it’s not good quality, and it’s not something beautiful.
Can you share some business challenges that you’ve had and how you overcame them? Often challenges in business are a result of personal life. When I had cancer, my business suffered. When I got divorced, my business suffered. So unless you’ve got a huge organisation, where everything sort of filters in through the infrastructure of what’s happening, situations in life become lost. Most people don’t have a business like that. Most people
are a small business I would say, and probably esprit Magazine’s readership includes many small businesses. So I think it’s really important to be prepared for personal life interfering with business. If you do have a setback, whatever it is, that you’ve got structures in place to pick it up. Whether it be insurance, whether it be a nest egg, whether you’ve got a fall-back position, someone there to help you.
Who are your role models or mentors in business and in life? I don’t have a particular role model. I constantly look for inspiration from everywhere. I get inspiration from people that are successful and who aren’t successful. In fact, some people who are suffering the most are my biggest inspiration because I just see the human spirit in them. So I wouldn’t necessarily say there is one person that I could attribute as being my role model. I suppose that I am always hungry for information. I know hungry sounds aggressive but it’s not; it’s more that I’m really curious. So role models, no one I can name specifically.
What’s next for Gina Liano? We are working on a third fragrance, a tanning range and skincare line. So what’s next? I think that, and possibly a Season Four of The Real Housewives of Melbourne. We are in negotiations at the moment with the contracts (at time of going to press).
If you could go back to 20-year-old Gina, what advice would you give her? I would say to myself that there’s no rush. Just as long as every day serves a purpose and you are achieving something every day, things will come together. You don’t have to go forward with that knot in your stomach with the pressure. Enjoy it.
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CHEMIST WAREHOUSE
Powerhouse
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“Blown away” is the expression many of the delegates used at the conclusion of the Chemist Warehouse Marketing Strategy 2017 lunch briefing. Mario Tascone, COO, gave a compelling presentation with the theme of the day: ‘It’s impossible until it’s done’. A theme proved evident for Chemist Warehouse Group with a successful 2016. In 2016, CWG launched its own House of Wellness Brand, delivering a quarterly House of Wellness Magazine, distributing over 1 million copies and reaching over 4 million Australians (more than double the Australian Women’s Weekly readership). The HOW Brand also includes a weekly House of Wellness Radio Show on Macquarie Radio Network with some of Australia’s top celebrities including, Larry Emdur, Michelle Bridges, Giaan Rooney and Kelly Landry who reach a national audience of over 500,000 tuning in each week. Since January 2016 CWG has launched over 50 new and exclusive fragrances including Michael Klim and two of the biggest international celebrities’ Sarah Jessica Parker and Michael Bublé. 2016 also saw the production of their very first fragrance brand Gina by Gina Liano, that proved very successful as the Number 1 selling fragrance during the Mother’s Day sales period. Following the success of Gina Liano’s first foray into the fragrance world, comes the launch of her second signature scent, Fearless by Gina Liano that hit stores on Saturday 30th October.
Going into 2017 continuing with the attitude that Everything is Possible… CWG will introduce two new platforms extending on their House of Wellness Brand and taking a leap into the TV business creating a House of Wellness TV Show with their media partner Quattro Group at their soon to be completed Studio QTV production studio in Richmond. House of Wellness will also extend into Digital, launching a House of Wellness website, that will sit standalone alongside the existing CWH website. This dynamic site will be a resource for customers to compile and digest all of the content, from the four pillars of the House of Wellness Media Brand – the monthly catalogues, quarterly magazine, weekly radio and TV show.
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09 HOUSE WIVES OF MELBOURNE 01 –REAL JANET ROACH, SUSIE MCLEAN AND GAMBLE BREAUX
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MELISSA LYME – ELIZABETH ARDEN WITH ESPRIT MAGAZINE’S ANDREA FERRARI
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ANDREA FERRARI AND NICCI HERRERA – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA WITH MICHAEL KLIM
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GRACE THEODORATOS – NATIONAL SALES TRAINING MANAGER AND ADRIAN VERROCCHI - PHARMACIST/ OWNER AT MY CHEMIST/CHEMIST WAREHOUSE AUSTRALIA
& CO’S MICHAEL KLIM, GEORGE 05 MILK BUSHELL, MICHELLE VARGHESE AND TROY SAUNDERS
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CULLEN AND SEAN LANE 06 JONATHAN – BRANDPOINT LIANO’S 07 GINA GIRLS ZEMPEL – L’ORÉAL ACTIVE 08 JORN COSMETICS DIVISION WITH CHEMIST WAREHOUSE GROUP’S ALBINA REALE, NICCI HERRERA – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA AND RACHEL LAWLEY – L’ORÉAL ACTIVE COSMETICS DIVISION SIMONE HARMS, RADINA 09 REVLON’S BLANUSA AND ALLISON SCHUBERT
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PARODI AND SOPHIE COOPER 10 LEANNE – NUDE BY NATURE WITH (CENTRE) LIA HEIM – CHEMIST WAREHOUSE GROUP LIANO – REAL HOUSE WIVES OF 11 GINA MELBOURNE AND CREATOR OF THE
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GINA LIANO FRAGRANCE BRAND TASCONE – COO CHEMIST 12 MARIO WAREHOUSE GROUP WITH COLLEAGUES AND PARTNERS
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RISING STARS B O N D I P E R F U M E C O . C A RV E S A C E L E B R I T Y N I C H E Bondi Perfume Company, established in 2015 produces some of the country’s most prestigious celebrity-endorsed scents, while representing world class, exclusive brands. This is a company whose prime focus is to distribute fragrances that encompass style and sophistication for all Australian consumers.
Bondi Perfume Company believes in brands, people, and innovation. Through partnerships with some of the best fragrance creation laboratories in the world and with access to an extensive network of more than 400 retail outlets, Bondi Perfume Company is influencing a whole new aesthetic for the Australian fragrance landscape. Brands represented by Bondi Perfume Co. include Gina Liano, Michael Bublé, Sarah Jessica Parker, Hollister, Perry Ellis, Zipped, Police, Gap and Pino Silvestre. Matt Verrocchi has 10 years’ experience working within the retail fragrance industry with the Chemist Warehouse Group, that has provided him with a wealth of knowledge and expertise in a competitive fragrance market. Appointed as General Manager of the national perfumery chain My Beauty Spot in 2006, Matt gained invaluable experience working for the category leader, which has also provided him with a thorough understanding of the Australian fragrance industry landscape. As a part of this role, Matt was offered the chance to consult with the Chemist Warehouse international buying team, an opportunity which has been instrumental in keeping him ahead of innovative fragrance trends and brands, including exposure to key suppliers in the scene-setting overseas market.
The mass fragrance sector in Australia is a 464-million-dollar* category, what do you believe has increased the interest in Australia? Thanks to retailers such as Chemist “ Warehouse, fragrance has now become an
affordable luxury in Australia. A luxury that can play a significant role in our mood and wellbeing each day. Fragrance has the ability to evoke a range of emotions including a greater sense of confidence, happiness and relaxation and can have positive effects on mood, stress reduction, sleep enhancement and self-confidence. Scents are like a holiday without the expensive price tag. As fragrance has become more accessible, it has become an indulgence Australians are willing to spend on and an area we will continue to develop and promote.
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Bondi Perfume Co. has grown fast - how has it become such a success in such a short space of time? In what is an increasingly competitive “ and crowded fragrance marketplace we
identified a gap in the celebrity category within Australia and an opportunity for Bondi Perfume Company. Although the concept of celebrity fragrance isn’t new, we’re seeing an increase in stars branching out and expanding their brands into the health, lifestyle and beauty sectors, including fragrance. Bondi Perfume Company’s success stems from several factors including our ability to keep abreast of key trends, identify with other successful brands and assess gaps in the market.
COME AND FIND IT.
THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY SARAH JESSICA PARKER
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Listening to your consumer is a key element. Our breadth of experience in this area means we are able to produce affordable fragrances and beauty products working alongside high profile Aussie celebrities that really resonate with our customers.
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esprit Magazine promotion
esprit speaks with Bondi Perfume Co. director, Matt Verrocchi on the success of Bondi Perfume Company’s speedy growth and expansion plans.
Has Bondi Perfume Company’s success surprised you? Bondi Perfume Company’s success is driven by the proven, “ winning trifecta of: commitment, dedication and passion. Just this year we have been lucky enough to work with renowned personalities such as Michael Bublé, Sarah Jessica Parker and our very own Gina Liano. Every personality we work with shares the drive and determination to produce a flawless fragrance. From initial concepts, through to the finished product, each brings their own unique flair and flavour to the fragrance world. It’s through this commitment and professionalism brought by the stars we work with at Bondi Perfume Company, that we’re able to bring such successful and popular fragrances to the market.
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Plans for further growth - where/how you see the business growing?
The celebrity fragrance market continues to grow globally “ as consumers seek to buy into their favourite icons’ lifestyles. As this trend continues to gain momentum, our business will continue to invest in Aussie celebrities and bring their projects to life. Expanding our local distribution channels throughout Australia is also a priority in 2017 with the launches and exclusive distribution agreements we have. It all adds up to a very exciting time for Bondi Perfume Co. In March 2017 Bondi Perfume Company, will launch another exclusive fragrance for an iconic female Australian star which will initially be sold directly through Chemist Warehouse, My Chemist and My Beauty Spot stores nationally.
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*IRI Dec 2016
BE THE FIRST TO KNOW WHAT’S HAPPENING IN 2017 Contact Matt Verrocchi Matt.Verrocchi@bondiperfume.com.au www.bondiperfume.com.au
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MARCH 2017
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The Everyday Performance! On a recent trip to London, I strolled through the cosmetic hall of Selfridges and it instantly took me back to my days working on the cosmetic floors across Australia. There was this buzz that sucked you in and even I - who is constantly around cosmetics wanted to explore and get involved in the hype of new products, demonstrations, all while having a little kick in my step because of the awesome tunes pumping through the hall. I know that our cosmetic floors in Aus, may not have the traffic flow as that of Selfridges in London, but when I stood back and watched each counter from afar, the ones that stood out were the ones with smiles on the BAs faces, energy and makeup demos. It made me want to go over and see what was going on, be somehow a part of the hype on those counters, even if I couldn’t or didn’t want to necessarily get my makeup applied, I just wanted to see what was going on and be a part of this beauty buzz!
This all got me thinking… YOU are in control of how well your day will go when working on the cosmetic floor… It’s you that can draw people in, as well as the products and brand you represent. The counter is your stage and you are the performer and with so many brands all competing for consumer attention, it’s important to have a point of difference and an engaging experience. Too many times cosmetic staff are standing like soldiers, creating almost a barrier between customer and counter, now how can that gain sales? For me, this was an easy thought process, as I grew up as a dancer and performing (or engaging) with customers came naturally. I never went out of my way to recruit customers with product spiels or anything too sales-like, because to be fair, is that how I would talk to someone I know? The answer is no! I would smile, look happy and create energy on every counter I worked on… in the early days all over W.A, then later for six years it was
By Michael Brown
all across the country. If I saw someone walk past the counter with an ice-cream, I would say “Yum, that’s exactly what I feel like” and so many times it strikes a conversation and engages into the fact that I am working for a cosmetic brand. I would create face charts, right near the makeup bar of a counter, so that people browsing could see and I would engage by saying, “Don’t mind me, I just love creating new makeup looks.” They’d be in my makeup chair in minutes. Think outside the box, have fun with your colleagues, look busy and have actual conversations with people passing by, as not all of us are confident walking up to the bright lights of a cosmetic counter. At the end of the day, sales are about engagement and that all comes down to you and the mood you project to people around you. Enjoy your stage and your customers will too!
Selfridges London, Beauty Hall - the stage is set for activity and interaction! Photos: Andrew Meredith ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|57
Celebrity Beauty by Mary Zavaglia reporting from L.A.
HOLLYWOOD’S SEXY NEW HAIR
HIGH HAIR
Buns and up do’s are a red carpet favourite
BOB-LICIOUS
The bob still reigns supreme Emily Blunt is on trend with the ‘new textured bob’ by Mane Master, Laini Reeves. This fun and flirty, layered cut is a match made in heaven for those with high cheekbones and sporting a bold pout. Stars like Kendall Jenner, January Jones and Halle Berry have been spotted rocking effortlessly tousled long bobs lately. Styling tip… Using a vent brush blow-dry hair forward until it’s 70% dry and then apply a light styling spray and press hair in place with open palms and allow it to air dry. Best buys… Keratin 230 Curved Vent Brush, $12.95, KMS California FREESHAPE 2-in-1 Styling Finishing Spray, $31.95, Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection, $49.95.
J’Lo certainly knows how to add a punchy twist to this look with tousled loose ends. To copy this look created by her stylist of 14 years, Oribe, blow-dry hair with a large round brush turning ends under, then pull hair back into a high pony and twist hair in opposite direction and secure with bobby pins and finish with hairspray. Styling tip… Celebrity stylist, Oribe says: “No matter what look you’re going for, properly prime hair to get the desired result fast.” In this case a great blow-dry. Best buys… Gliders Petite Metal Free Ponytail Holders 6pc, $4.49, Redken Body Full Instant Bodifier, $29.95, Lady Jane Double Bar Pins, $9.99.
SUPER CHIC BLONDE Favoured by “A” list beauties
“Bombshell blonde is so passé, today’s blonde hair colour is sexy, glamorous and rich,” says the king of colour at Sally Hershberger, Jonathan Gale. Think Charlize Theron, pictured here,Laura Dern and Chloe Sevigny. “My aim is to colour correct and freshen up the dated Ombre technique by creating a luscious blonde with a mega-watt shine”. His secret? He credits Olaplex with giving colourists the power to push the boundaries of blonde and suggests using a topical oil to keep locks lush such as, his Replenish oil which is the bomb. Its fragrance alone is worth every penny. Colour care… To keep colour fresh and hydrated use shampoo and conditioner for colour-treated hair. Avoid anti-dandruff shampoos containing sulphur, as they can turn treated hair brassy. Best buys… Kevin Murphy Blonde Angel, $42.95, Kérastase Bain Chroma Capture, $40.00, L’Oréal Absolut Repair Lipidium Masque, $31.00.
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I wanted to feel good about myself, particularly around the hair loss – and learn how to draw on eyebrows! It was also a good chance to be in a room with other women who are going through similar experiences VANESSA, LGFB WORKSHOP PARTICIPANT
LIFE FEELS BETTER IN COLOUR Look Good Feel Better offers skincare, make-up and headwear tips and tricks to help cancer patients like Vanessa face their diagnosis with confidence. Vanessa shares her experience …
For Vanessa, 40, a routine health check resulted in the worst kind of surprise – a breast cancer diagnosis. “Immediately my thoughts went to my three boys, and doing whatever I had to do to be there for them,” she says. “After the initial shock, I just decided to take this as I take everything else – with positivity and energy.” Vanessa sought out a Look Good Feel Better workshop in the hope that it would help her regain control and a sense of positivity. “I would absolutely recommend Look Good Feel Better to others going through treatment,” says Vanessa. “It’s informative, it’s fun – what have you got to lose?”
BELOW: Vanessa learns how to draw on her eyebrows. RIGHT: An artist creates a water colour painting of Vanessa.
VISIT LGFB.ORG.AU OR CALL 1800 650 960
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER WORKSHOPS
Over two hours, volunteer beauty professionals share helpful tips on skincare and make-up application, scarf styling and wig selection. Participants also receive a complimentary Confidence Kit full of products to use throughout the workshop and to take home with them.
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th e B e a u t y of
Sustainability IT ’S BECO ME PART O F WHAT THE COSME TI C I ND USTRY MUST DO
Raising the bar on sustainability has become a major common goal for beauty and personal care companies from small niche operators to the major players. L’Oréal and Unilever are the only two cosmetic and personal care giants to achieve an A ranking in the 2016 annual report from the Carbon Disclosure Project. Routinely referred to as the most powerful NGO in the world, the CDP represents 822 companies and institutions with combined revenues of US$95 trillion. The common goal is that the sustainability initiatives under assessment make a significant contribution to reducing the risk of global warming and climate change. Sustainability targets largely remain voluntary, but consumers, retailers and shareholders want to know what their chosen brands are doing to reduce landfill, carbon emissions and waste. Estée Lauder, for example, publishes an annual report called The Beauty of Responsibility outlining its efforts in caring for the environment. Clarins supports FEED, an organisation which has provided 60 million school meals in underdeveloped countries over the past five years. Just two examples of the ongoing projects the beauty and personal care industry is pursuing in its quest to incorporate greener and more ethical and sustainable practices into packaging, manufacturing and ingredient supply chains. esprit asks a range of the leading companies to outline their strategies for promoting the greater good. 60| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
by Elisabeth King
Global Initiatives As the largest beauty company in the world, L’Oréal has a corporate sustainability program called Sharing Beauty with All, says Marnie Carroll, Corporate Communications Manager. “Established in 2013, it sets out a clear vision of where we want to be by 2020. L’Oréal’s ambition to reach one billion new consumers over that period, means that we need to produce more with less impact.
MARNIE CARROLL Corporate Communications Manager at L’Oréal
We have six 2020 targets, one of which is Innovating Sustainably with the goal that 100 per cent of our products will have an environmental or social benefit, adds Carroll. “To date, 43 per cent of L’Oréal’s new or renovated products have an improved environmental or social profile, thanks to packaging with a smaller environmental footprint. In addition 100 per cent of paper used for product instructions will be certified”. L’Oréal was the first major player to introduce green chemistry into its innovation model, says Carroll. “A soft and clean chemistry, the approach rests on three pillars. The use of primarily botanical materials. The development
of eco-friendly processes with L’Oréal’s researchers committed to reducing the number of synthesis steps, as well as solvent and energy consumption. Improving the environmental profile of formulas, particularly by increasing their biodegradability and reducing the water footprint”. L’Oréal has multiple programs which will have enabled 100,000 people from underprivileged communities worldwide to access work by 2020, says Carroll. “Over the next three years, 100 per cent of L’Oréal’s suppliers will be involved in our sustainability program. In 2016, L’Oréal Australia announced a partnership with TerraCycle to help reduce the 21.1 million tonnes of waste currently sent to landfill in Australia”. As a Beiersdorf brand, Nivea follows a company-wide sustainability dedicated to minimising packaging and developing alternatives, says Nivea Skincare Expert, Robyn Hutch. “By 2020, we aim to generate 50 per cent of our sales from products with a significantly reduced environmental impact. We have a sustainability product scorecard, which examines key elements such as non-fossil ingredients, the impact on water toxicology, the use of recycled materials and the reduction in packaging materials”. Nivea is also committed to improving the lives of one million families by 2020. “With Beiersdorf ’s global ‘Nivea cares for family’
R O BY N H U TC H Nivea Skincare Expert
In addition to our production centres, Nivea now includes categories like warehousing, transport, third party manufacturing, employee travel and offices into the scope of CO2 mapping and actions, says Hutch. “We aim to reduce transport-related emissions by 20 per cent, and emissions from our production centres by 50 per cent for every product sold. We are also constantly seeking alternative waste disposal methods and follow a ‘zero landfill’ policy”.
Pioneering Efforts Aveda has a history of sustainability firsts in its 35 year history, says Dave Rapaport, Vice President Earth & Community Care. “We launched our first-ever PET packaging in 2002, and became the first beauty company in the world to receive a Cradle to Cradle (C2C) sustainability endorsement”.
DAV E RA PA P O RT Vice President Earth & Community Care at Aveda
From the beginning our mission was to care for the world we live in, says Rapaport. “We continue to develop new formulas that reflect the art of transforming naturallyderived ingredients. Our researchers combine expertise in pharmacognosy (the study of medicinal substances from natural sources), green chemistry, biology, botany, aromatherapy, biochemistry, physics, chemical engineering and phytotechnologies. One of Aveda’s primary goals is to minimise the use of virgin petrochemicals in our packaging. Where we cannot use 100 percent PCR HDPE, we use bioplastic PE as a substitute for the petrochemical variety”. Lush was founded by a group of animal and environmentalist activists, says Peta Granger, Director, Lush Cosmetics Australasia. “We constantly strive to invent products with little need for packaging, and sell more than 35 per cent of them ‘naked’. Where we do use plastic or paper, it is 100 per cent post-consumer waste bottles and tubs. Eight years ago, we got
rid of gift wrap and replaced it with what we call ‘knot wrap’- where customers products are wrapped in a second-hand vintage scarf or one made for green spun plastic bottles”.
P E TA G RA N G E R Director at Lush Cosmetics Australasia
Lush is also trying to look more broadly than just the impact of what we’re doing in the moment, and instead search for solutions that re-generate and repair the damage that has been done exploiting land, people and resources over the last 1000 years, says Granger. “About six years ago, we launched our Sustainable Lush Fund (SLush Fund), which takes two per cent of all the money we spend on buying ingredients and packaging, and invests it in sustainable farming and community projects, permaculture training and infrastructure around the world”. The targets under The Body Shop’s Enrich Not Exploit Commitment aim to make the company more sustainable in the way we operate every aspect of our business, says Christopher Davis, International Director of Campaigns and Corporate Responsibility. C H R I S TO P H E R DAV I S International Director of Campaigns and Corporate Responsibility, The Body Shop
“These targets include two specific pledges on sustainable packaging, one of which is to ensure that 70 per cent of our total product packaging does not contain fossil fuels. For instance, our Christmas 2016 gifts contained 136 tonnes less plastic than the 2014 range”. The Body Shop works closely with external experts, says Davis. “One exciting innovation is a polymer called AirCarbon. We teamed with Newlight Technologies to introduce the material into our products. It behaves the same as plastic, but is produced through an innovation that uses methane and carbon dioxide, which would otherwise be released into the air as a greenhouse gas”. Every time we develop a new formula, we calculate its biodegradeability and water footprint, adds Davis. “From the end of 2015, all of The Body Shop scrubs contained natural exfoliators instead of micro-beads. Nearly 30 years ago, founder Anita Roddick formed the Trade Not Aid programme. Now called Community Trade, we continue this initiative of providing a fair and sustainable income to communities who provide the company with ingredients and accessories”.
We are committed to achieving 100 per cent eco-designed products in the near future. KIM BOUBLI, BRA ND MA NAGER, KLORA NE
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program, we support families around the world through long-term projects. Recently, Nivea launched an initiative to support mothers in low income families in India to give their children a chance to attend school regularly”.
Natural Progression S I N E A D R O B E RT S Director at WOTNOT
WOTNOT has always strived for the highest standards in sustainable packaging, says Director Sinead Roberts. “Our wipes are made from FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified fibres that have been sustainably sourced and are 100 per cent biodegradable. We use certified organic ingredients as much as possible. But being natural doesn’t mean rejecting new technologies. Instead of using hard plastic resealable tabs on WOTNOT’s baby and facial wipes, for example, we have incorporated the latest technology rigid lens closure labels which are ultra-thin and perform equally well”. Klorane’s commitment to sustainable development dates back to its founding over 50 years ago. Independently audited by Ecocert, the first certification body to develop standards for natural and organic cosmetics, the French botanical brand was awarded an Ecocert 26000 - Level of Excellence. “As a brand, we are committed to achieving 100 per cent eco-designed products in the near future”, says Kim Boubli, Brand Manager, Klorane. “Our recently launched Desert Date range was eco-designed from the outset to meet the three pillars of sustainable development - economic, social and environmental. The range features 100 per cent biodegradable formulas, packaging is made from recycled PET plastic and PEFC-certified paper.
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Renovation of existing ranges is also a priority at Klorane, says Boubli. “Currently, our Mango, Desert Date and Flax Fiber ranges are fully biodegradable and there will be more reformulations in 2017. Klorane cultivates all its own plant extracts to ensure full traceability for every one used in our products”. Klorane also supports environmental preservation initiatives, says Boubli. “We have partnered with 11 African countries, for example, for the Great Green Wall project to plant 30,000 desert date palms over the next three years in northern Africa. We also plant a tree in Portugal every time a child being born in the country, resulting in approximately 100,000 trees being replanted each year”.
Going Forward
While glass looks beautiful, it was also chosen for its recyclable nature. Plastics are recyclable, but the majority of people are not trained to recycle them. Only 20 per cent of all plastic produced is recycled, in contrast to 50 per cent of glass. The new cartons are not coated, chlorine-free and use less ink. A NNA B E L LE P ER S O N EN I, B OTA NI CAL C H EM IS T FO R A’K IN.
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Ultraceuticals is a member of Australian Covenant Packaging, says Dr Geoffrey Heber, Founder. “Organisations sign the Covenant to signal their commitment to reduce the environmental impact of consumer packaging through three major ways. Packaging should be designed to be more resource efficient and recyclable. Companies should increase recovery and recycling of used packaging from households and away-from-home sources. Action should be taken to reduce the incidence and impact of litter”.
D R G EO F F R E Y H E B E R Founder of Ultraceuticals
Ultraceuticals has developed an ingredient policy, in effect since 2010, which must adhere to certain guidelines, says Dr Heber. “No animal-derived ingredients can be used, with the exception of harmlessly harvested ingredients such as insects and molluscs. Ultraceuticals does not use any ingredients which have been tested in animals after March 2009. Where a reasonable choice exists, we will always choose ingredients from natural sources. We do not use ingredients obtained from sources which have a significant negative impact on the environment, such as parabens, SLS, petrolatum and mineral oil”. “A’kin was founded in 1987, long before many companies considered sustainability, says Annabelle Personeni, Botanical Chemist for A’kin. “Founder Will Evans made sustainability a pre-requisite for everything we do from the beginning - from product development to the future of the brand”.
The latest sustainability strategy for A’kin is the shift to glass bottles in packaging, says Personeni. “While glass looks beautiful, it was also chosen for its recyclable nature. Plastics are recyclable, but the majority of people are not trained to recycle them. Only 20 per cent of all plastic produced is recycled, in contrast to 50 per cent of glass. The new cartons are not coated, chlorine-free and use less ink”. When selecting new ingredients, the A’kin team always checks their sustainability, says Personeni. “We also change ingredients when necessary. Previously, we used the antiinflammatory ingredient bisabolo, for example, sourced from the bark of the Candeia tree in Brazil. Supplies diminished as the global popularity of this ingredient grew and the tree became endangered. We switched to a natureidentical but synthetic ingredient because it does not endanger the environment. We also choose suppliers with an ethical sourcing policy, who work with local and indigenous communities through employment or education”.
LEANNE PARODI Marketing Manager for Nude by Nature
For starters, the Nude by Nature range uses many of nature’s most powerful ingredients, including Australian Kakadu plum, Lilly Pilly and Desert Lime, says Leanne Parodi, Marketing Manager. “Using only naturally-derived ingredients is core to our brand philosophy. We also avoid harmful and synthetic ingredients, including talc, silicone, bismuth and triclosans”. In May, to coincide with National Volunteer Week, Nude by Nature forged a new partnership with Look Good Feel Better, says Parodi. “Filled with natural extracts and antioxidants to benefit the skin, Nude by Nature is the perfect partner for LGFB patients looking for products which not only make them look and feel better, but are good for them, too”.
Landmark Shifts Trilogy’s most recent commitment to sustainability is not having outer cartons for our relaunched Body Care range, says Lisa Wilson, International Communications Manager. “We’ve always used biodegradable, non-bio-accumulating, vegetable-based bioinks and varnishes and FSC-certified paper and board in our packaging. Trilogy also complies with Australia’s Illegal Logging Prohibition Act, which requires confirmation that timber products used in the supply chain are from ethical sources”.
LISA WILSON International Communications Manager for Trilogy
Trilogy is also proud to say that our entire range has always been free of plastic microbeads, says Wilson. “We’ve been listed in Fauna & Flora’s Good Scrub Guide from the outset because we use natural and effective alternatives, such as jojoba microspheres in Gentle Facial Exfoliant and rosehip seed powder in our recently launched Exfoliating Body Balm”. Trilogy achieved carbon-neutral status in 2007, says Wilson, and in 2016 became a full carboNZero certified organisation. “For the past three years, we have worked with So They Can, a not-for-profit organisation operating in Kenya and Tanzania. The partnership allowed us to develop the limited edition Jua and Raha perfumes and we have donated $75,000 to date to help women and children in both countries”. Jurlique carefully considers where all of our packaging materials come from, and what
impacts and stresses they place on the planet’s resources, says Yoshie Obara, Environmental Officer, Jurlique International. “This is done using a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), where we map all the impacts for the material used in our packaging. The LCA Packaging Impact Quick Evaluation Tool allows the company to assess our packaging from raw material selection through converting processes, origin of materials, transportation and end-of-life”.
YOSHIE OBARA Environmental Officer for Jurlique International
The plastic tube transition was a recent landmark for Jurlique, says Obara. “Aluminium tube packaging was Jurlique’s most common packaging type. However, it produced the highest supply chain and on-line production wastage. Following a life cycle assessment by PIQET, the sustainable packaging alliance, we transitioned to plastic tubes in 2016 because of their lighter weight and lower environmental impact”. Jurlique’s Supplier Management Team, comprising procurement, quality, formulation, operation and sustainability was developed in 2013, says Obara. “As part of the operation team, we have staff in China who work closely with Chinese suppliers. Through the newlycreated Code of Conduct, Jurlique strives for safer working conditions, treating workers fairly and using environmentally responsible practices. We have also developed a Jurlique Supplier Award, a partnership with Sedex, the international organisation driving ethical practices in global supply chains and a Supplier
We constantly strive to invent products with little need for packaging, and sell more than 35 per cent of them ‘naked’. PETA GRA NGER, LUSH COSMETICS AU ST R A L ASI A
Scorecard, which assesses quality, pricing, innovation and sustainability”. Palmer’s have made it a priority when formulating products to ensure ingredients are more environmentally friendly, says Alissar Stelio, National PR and Social Media Manager. “For example, our exfoliating scrubs do not use micro-beads. Palmer’s Cocoa Butter exfoliating facial scrub uses walnut shells, while our new Coconut Oil Body Scrub contains raw sugar granules”. Sustainable farming practices are also topof-mind, says Stelio. “Palmer’s is a member of the World Cocoa Foundation and the Global Shea Alliance. Both organisations provide economic and environmental support to farmers and their families involved in the supply of raw ingredients”.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|63
TALK THE TALK
GLOSSARY OF TERMS IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
Here we solve the mystery behind some commonly-used acronyms & phrases in the beauty industry POS
B2B
B2C
GWP
ATL
(Promotional Offer: for example buy
(Refers to the Advertising spend
$50 worth of products, get a cosmetic
behind a brand)
RETAILER GROSS MARGIN
Point of Sale
Business-to-Business
Above the Line
Gift with Purchase
Business-to-Consumer
E.g. If a retailer sells a product for
bag & samples free)
BTL
Below the Line
BOGO
(Refers to non-Advertising spend
Buy One, Get One free
behind a brand, such as Promotion,
(pronounced ‘boh-goh’)
Public Relations, etc.)
(Promotional offer: for example buy a lipstick, get another lipstick free)
NPD
New Product Development
RRP $13 and it cost them $10, Gross Margin is $3 To express as a ratio, Gross Margin divided by RRP: $3 divided by $13 = 23.1% Gross Margin
SWOT
Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, Threats (4-box grid often used by Marketers
SOM
to assess a brand’s health in the Definitions brought to you by the team at
Share of Market
marketplace)
(Or Market Share)
MARK-UP
COG
E.g. If a retailer sells a product for $13 and it cost $10, the
Cost of Goods
Mark-Up is $3
(The cost to make/manufacture goods, before additional costs such as advertising,
www.beauty-connections.com.au
To express as a ratio, Mark-Up divided by cost: $3 divided by $10 =
promotion, etc. are added on)
30% Mark-Up
Google each for more info! If you don’t know something, never be afraid to ask.
Ask esprit and we can help, or point you in the right direction: 64| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
info@esprit-magazine.com.au
Setting…no,
ACHIEVING goals By Alexandra Blakemore
Daily we are being suggested to set goals and be our best selves. We may set off with gusto only to slip into familiar habits after time. Goal Setting is easy, it’s Goal Achieving that takes compliance to the steps along the way… but that’s all it is. As Nike so succinctly put it: ‘just do it’. But, do what? Being specific is a critical element to success too. Whatever your personal or business goal is, be real about the prospects of achieving success. Here we set out some simple guidelines – it’s not rocket science and there’s no magic wand. Just commit to achieve!
G OA L SETTI NG Goal setting can be both a blessing and a curse. A blessing in that it is great to get organised and list what you really want to achieve (and there is nothing like putting pen to paper to really cement what you want to achieve) and a curse if you keep not achieving them and feeling like a failure. So, to help you feel energised and excited about achieving your goals, following are some proven tips to help keep you motivated and on track when it all seems too hard….
1. REALISTIC GOALS Setting realistic goals is all about focussing on what is really important to you. There are so many things to remember and so many distractions in our busy lives that it’s easy to lose focus and forget what the real priorities are – even when they are priorities. And strangely, one of the main reasons that people don’t do what they need to do to enjoy more success and happiness in life, is that they actually forget.
2 . H O W T O B R E A K D O W N YO U R GOALS TO MINI SUCCESSES How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time ….. I always think of this quote when it comes to goal setting. Setting a large goal without first thinking through your weekly or daily objectives and outcomes can be setting yourself up for disappointment. Many goals can seem simply insurmountably big. Instead make yourself accountable to bite-
sized steps. Unless you are able to appreciate and celebrate each small win or step, you are never going to appreciate the full impact of what you are actually accomplishing.
3. WHAT DOES A STEPPING STONE APPROACH LOOK LIKE? IE: TO LOSE 20KG SET M O N T H LY, W E E K LY G O A L S A timeline, while it might seem boring and a bit formal is always best when setting goals. This will help you to break down your larger goal into a series of stepping stones and also helps you to make your goal a focus. For example, I have to be out of work by 5pm in order to exercise by 6pm. I have to be in bed by 9pm to have enough sleep in order to be well rested before I exercise in the morning etc.
Alexandra Blakemore CEO & Founder French Navy and Co-founder, The Happiness at Work Program - a 30-day program devised to improve personal happiness and positively impact workplace productivity. www.thehappinessatworkprogram.com
4 . B E A C C O U N TA B L E It’s really easy to make excuses. However unless you make yourself accountable for your own actions and goals, you won’t achieve your desired outcomes. That said, make sure you are kind to yourself. If work was out of control one week and you couldn’t tick as much off your list, that’s fine. If work wasn’t busy and you simply couldn’t be bothered … well, that’s a different story.
5 . C E L E B R A T E YO U R M I N I S U C C E S S E S A S M U C H A S YO U W O U L D C E L E B R A T E YO U R E N D GOAL When you set mini or weekly goals, another benefit is that it makes it much easier to identify your successes and celebrate them! For me, the skip in my step when I achieve my mini-goal and also get to treat myself as a result, is a definite incentive to keep moving forward to the next stage of my big picture goal. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|65
66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
esprit Magazine promotion
Like Bees
to a Manuka honey pot BeeBio, the New Zealand anti-ageing skincare brand has been acquired by husband and wife team, with 25+ yrs skincare industry experience. Tony and Tracy Ahern have more than 25 years’ experience in the skincare and appearance medicine category, having owned a chain of appearance medi clinics in New Zealand, and previously imported and distributed skincare ranges from Europe. The pair are an interesting combination – Tony, a Management Consultant normally working with corporates in strategy and business change, while Tracy is a skin expert, initially trained in South Africa as a Cosmetologist (ITEC). She has a postgraduate training in Advanced Skincare Analysis and as a Laser Safety Officer and Radiation specialist.
clients the science and fully assure them that the product was 100% NZ natural, contains up to 15% of Active Medical Grade Manuka and would regenerate, tighten and firm the skin,” says Tony. “When the opportunity came up, we purchased the company”. Nature + Science delivering high efficacy
The journey to and from cosmeceuticals
Over the past 10 years the Aherns have distributed cosmeceutical skincare which delivered high certainty of results for customers but had noticed a growing demand for natural skincare with high efficacy. Working in clinics with mostly mature clients, Tracy noticed more and more women having real health scares and thus asking questions about their skincare and the treatments that they were having. The Aherns went in search of a natural product that would only work epidermally, but active enough to make a difference and promote cell rejuvenation. The Aherns liked the product so much they purchased the company
Tony and Tracy were introduced to BeeBio in 2013 and brought it into their clinics. They designed a very active facial treatment that made a difference, then combined it with LED light therapy and the results were truly outstanding. Clients enjoyed the therapeutic values of the treatment incorporating the “slow beauty movement” facial. “BeeBio homecare was easy to recommend and sell to clients: the research completed by Trinity Bioactives Laboratory in NZ, meant that we could show
With Tracy’s medical background, Natural + Science needed to be met. “There are many natural skincare ranges out there, however BeeBio’s point of difference is the high concentration of active ingredients - the critically acclaimed healing and anti-bacterial properties of Active Manuka Honey - and traceability directly back to the hives where the active ingredients were collected. This is becoming increasingly important to today’s consumers,” says Tracy. Bee Bio developed a natural advanced skincare range based on nature and science, by combining Bioactive Manuka Honey and 100% natural bee products along with the best of New Zealand’s highly bioactive botanicals to create the purest and most effective skincare possible. Medical Grade Active Manuka Honey has the special skin regenerating properties which makes BeeBio products truly advanced. Medical Grade Manuka Honey is FDA and CE mark approved for its special natural healing properties.
BeeBio’s Independent Skin Cell Research conducted with the assistance of a NZ Ministry of Science and Innovation grant has scientifically proven the powerful 80% skin cell regeneration properties only found in NZ Medical Grade Manuka Honey and Pure Bee Venom. With its amazing advanced moisturising, healing, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, it is suitable for all skin types including dry, irritated or sensitive skin as well as oily and acne-prone skin. BeeBio Super Fruit Extract is a highly bioactive blend of blackcurrants, grapes and kiwi fruit seed extract. BeeBio Super Fruit Extract has an ORAC value (measure of antioxidant levels) six times that of vitamin C and contains very potent antioxidants that help diminish the sun’s damaging effects and reduce free radical damage.
Find out more here www.beebioskin.com natural@beebioskin.com +64 3 595 1309 Tony Ahern LinkedIn https://www.linkedin.com/in/tonyahern-b4507914/
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|67
Business. esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business.
68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
What does the OverseaS wholesale/buyer look for in an Australian product?
Authenticity has been one of our most important brand attributes. Everyone says they have a great story, but what the buyers have enjoyed from us, is that our story is genuine. We live and breathe what we say, in all facets of our brand, from product efficacy all the way through to our social media and in-store presence. Our products have been developed in Australia to withstand one of the world’s harshest climates, and this is something people can relate to. Everyone loves Australia – so you can always use this to your advantage, as long as there is a genuine reason as to why this fits with your story. How does Lqd OverseaS shipping, distribution channels operate?
We’ve now established a warehouse in the USA, currently in Kansas, which gives us a central distribution point that can cover both the East & West Coast in the most efficient time frames. We deal directly with the retailers through our National Sales Director, and supply through EDI from our warehouse to theirs. We don’t use distributors, as we develop the relationship with the retailers ourselves. How should we approach the OverseaS market and how best to pitch a brand?
On Lqd’s rise – the how’s and why’s Australian premium skincare brand Lqd is celebrating local and international success having launched across Bloomingdales (USA) and David Jones (AUS) after becoming Sephora Australia’s leading men’s brand. Ldq is now Australia’s most successful men’s range globally with an imminent entry to the UK. Lqd was founded by Melbourne-based Anthony McDonough and Chris Glebatas. Both men living very different lives prior to founding Lqd. Chris was an investment banker and Anthony, although being an organic chemist, had spent his life in marketing. esprit talks with the boys from Lqd to share ‘how to’ and advice on going global. Most favourite part of creating Lqd
It’s not often in life you get the opportunity to create something exactly the way you want it, without compromise. We had the opportunity to create the perfect products, packaging, branding and communications strategy without the usual constraints – time, cost, speed to market, product quality and efficacy trade-offs. This resulted in Lqd being a brand that maintained its honesty and integrity through the chain from concept to creation. Best advice to break international water for a brand
Do your ground work in your local market first. Make sure your product is better than your competitors and you’ve proven you can beat them before taking the product off shore. We knew we had a superior consumer proposition before we entered the USA, as we were already beating our international competitors where we sold against them head to head in Australia. This gave us the confidence to know that we could also do it internationally as well.
You have to put yourself in the shoes of the buyer and understand why it’s in their interest to stock you over the 100s of other brands that they are meeting with over the course of a year. If you can’t work out a rational argument and be able to back up what you can offer with something that others can’t, then you’ll never make it onto shelf. With Lqd, we had an established customer base in the USA who already loved our products and were waiting for us to align with a substantial retail partner. Bloomingdales was the obvious choice for us and our consumers, as that is where they shop. We knew we had a superior product offering versus their competitors and that consumers would come to Bloomingdales specifically to buy us – we could drive more customers into the store as well as give their customers a reason to come back to Bloomingdales. Any Lqd gold you would like to share?
Persistence is the key, as no matter how good your product and/or story is, you might just hit a buyer who is having a bad day. You can’t afford to take no for an answer. Even if you initially get a no, you need to keep going back over time until the no turns into a maybe and then persist until the maybe turns in to a yes. Also, make sure you have a clear prioritisation with retailers of where you want to be and where you don’t want to be, because, if you make the wrong move in the short term, it can damage your longer term strategy. Sometimes it may be the smarter move long term to say no, than to accept every offer that comes along. lqd.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|69
Strategically Keeping January Cash Flow Positive
by Brigitte Benge www.creamsolutions.com This is how I see it. Christmas is an opportunity to bump up revenue, to sell ‘more’ to the same customer. Every other time of the year, your customers come in to buy for themselves (generally) but come December, they’re buying for themselves and for others (mostly others). Huge opportunity to bump up revenue figures. You need to plan ahead and not let January be the debbiedowner it can be! If you’re going to partake in the big January sales to keep your cash flow going, then you already know what you’re going to do. But is it strategic? Do you really want to slash your prices THAT low just to maintain cash flow or keep up with your neighbouring competitors? You could be using a short-term fix, creating a longer-term problem. If your sale is so successful that your customers are buying up….think about it….it will take a while for them to come back and restock. Not to mention, you’re pretty much only collecting the cost of the goods of what you sold – the COGS (Cost of Goods Sold) - plus maybe a little more. Your margins aren’t great. If you slash 30% off your retail price, you think you’re left with a 70% mark-up but in fact you’re not. Let’s do some math. Let’s work on 100% Mark Up and 50% Gross Margin. If your COGS for a product is $80, you’ll normally charge $160 for it. If you discount this product in January by say 30%, you’ll sell it for $112. Your Markup is now down to 40% and your Margin is now 28%. Instead of $80 Gross Profit, you’re left with $32 with no apparent advantage other than cash flow is coming in. This wouldn’t make a dint in covering your expenses, and let’s not forget the interest you may have paid on the stockholding if you have a loan to repay. No, you have to be smarter than that. VALUE ADD and WORK YOUR DATABASE.
BUSINESS VALUE ADD If you’re going to have to discount your products, then at least get your customers to spend the saving back in your business. Let’s take the example above, 30% off means the customer saved $48. Instead of offering 30% off in January, consider the offer being: For every $50 you spend in January, you will receive a $15 gift voucher to our store. Spend $200 and you’ll receive a $60 Gift Voucher. Now you may be thinking that this is no different than offering a 30% discount. And you would only be right in terms of the value of what the customer perceives they are getting but instead of spending the $15 they received from a $50 purchase at the café next door for lunch, they’re spending it BACK IN YOUR BUSINESS. Make it REALLY appealing to the customer. Present the voucher just as you would present a paid voucher with exactly the same expiry date and allow the customer to accumulate all January purchases. For example, if they made three purchases in the month, say the first was for $58 ($15 voucher), the second was for $154 ($45 voucher) and the third was for $120 ($30
voucher), allow the customer to come back in and trade all three vouchers for one $80. Why would you do that? Because you would encourage them to use the gift voucher to give to a friend or family member say for a birthday, Mother’s Day or even Valentine’s Day. Even better, they’re bringing in most likely a NEW customer into your business. Perfect. Strategic.
CONCLUSION Retail is in an entirely new and challenging environment with customers changing their buyer behaviour enormously. Think strategically about your business and not do the ‘me-too’ kind of reactive promotions that so many are sticking to and customers are buying into less.
WORKING YOUR DATABASE I hope you have a database of your customers. If you don’t, then start 2017 with this as a goal. You only need a name and email address. If you think you want to do SMS promotions, then also ask for a mobile number. Email your clients with this great offer. I would really suggest you get the assistance of a graphic designer and even copywriter. For quick little promotions like this, go to www.fiverr.com and pay only $5US dollars for someone to come up with a great visual and then another $5US to come up with the clever words you need. You just have to brief each on the concept. I’ve used Fiverr with great success.
“
No, you have to be smarter than that. VALUE ADD and WORK YOUR DATABASE.
“
Of course you need to post the promotion on your website, Facebook and whatever other medium you use such as posters etc.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|71
Shop ‘til you drop by Amanda Stevens
If you think back to the last 10 items you purchased, you will probably have mixed feelings. Some items you will recall with a sense of pure satisfaction, some you will struggle to remember and some will just fill you with dread and regret. Most of us have a wardrobe speckled with unworn impulse purchases, a kitchen with stashes of unused gadgets and a bathroom drawer with skincare and cosmetics that we convince ourselves we will use one day. So why do we buy spontaneously? What complex (or simple) thought processes do humans go through when it comes to shopping…on impulse? And why do we go on to that uncomfortable gut feeling called Buyer’s Remorse?
72| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
The majority of the time, consumer behaviour is driven by the unconscious mind. Shoppers are often under the influence of basic evolutionary drivers and the modern act of buying something is often filling an array of emotional, rational and primal needs. This is particularly true of impulse purchases, where spending decisions cannot be attributed to any premeditated planning or needs analysis. It would seem that our mood, memories, fears and even our personality can be used to predict what we might pick up on a whim; and how much.
The science suggests that impulse purchases may be motivated by a number of different factors and as beauty retailers, it’s important to understand these drivers.
1.
Emotional Enjoyment We tend to pick up things that make us happy. The thought of immediate, pure pleasure can be insanely powerful; particularly when we are stressed out. Getting something new or getting a treat is a pick-me-up on a bad day, adds spice to a boring one, and can work as a strong incentive for a lazy day. Which would explain why the cosmetics counter is the perfect impulse purchasing environment – pretty things, the perfect shade of red lipstick and products that tantalise the senses. Typically, people impulse buy things that make them feel good, or things that have an emotional value. Scientists tell us that this happens because such items help us feel better about ourselves and temporarily dampen our unhappy thoughts and self-doubt. Studies have also found that the worse a person’s mood when they enter (or pass by) a shop, the more they are likely to make impulsive purchases. A distracted buyer is also an impulse buyer. When our mental resources are occupied elsewhere, we tend to buy things that seem appealing. Researchers think this happens because we have a limited amount of mental space. So when we are trying to manage various situations that demand our attention (like buying groceries while carrying a tired baby, talking to a friend, or taking a work call), we have very little mental space left to make a considered purchasing decision. Usually, such moments lead us to buying things that seem interesting; and often ones that are not on the list.
BUSINESS
Typical reasons for impulse buying
4.
2.
the need to stockpile
l o s s av e r s i o n There’s a reason that the cosmetics industry has built core promotions for decades on GWP offers. Whether it’s a limited edition cosmetics bag or bonus lipstick, consumers are drawn to things when they’re not sure that it will always be available; or if they think that they are getting a really good deal. The idea that we are getting more for the same amount of money spent speaks to most of us; even when we aren’t trying to save money.
3.
bargain spotting
Ever seen a 20% off (or even 5%) off sign on something and suddenly felt that you just have to get it? This happens because our brain can often get fooled by the idea that something MAY be a good deal. And who doesn’t want a good deal? Often consumers will justify an impulse purchase based on what they’ve saved, rather than the purchase price.
As a species that fears running out of resources, we have a tendency to stock up on things we think we should have. This is driven by a primal instinct of scarcity and the key unconscious motivator for many purchases during a sales frenzy. Ever witnessed a die-hard devotee of a particular makeup brand discover her favourite lipstick shade is being discontinued?
5.
rose-coloured glasses Humans are by nature very optimistic. For better and worse, we routinely delude ourselves. We believe we’re better than average looking, better than average drivers, better than average parents… clearly, we can’t all be right. Objectivity is an elusive virtue. Rather than look back and reflect on our past actions with anything approaching a balanced scorecard, we look to the future with an idealised view of what it might be like. We are convinced that we will eat all the food we buy, wear every item of clothing, and use all the makeup that we buy. It doesn’t really matter if we are told that this may not happen; we still go ahead and buy – optimistically.
Better understanding these drivers will help you spot an impulse shopper and their motivations and hopefully guide them into a purchase that they will feel good about long term, not just for a fleeting moment. And in turn they will trust you and become a loyal customer…rather than for just a short, sweet moment! For more information see: www.amandastevens.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|73
There’s never been a more exciting time to work in the beauty industry: we see at least 15-30 jobs advertised monthly in beauty marketing alone. Add the positions in digital marketing, e-commerce, sales, and operations, and we are very lucky to be in an industry that can provide us with great career growth opportunities, no matter which path you pursue. Here are our top tips for those looking to develop their careers in the beauty industry, and for beauty companies looking to attract the best talent. Job Seekers: Developing your career in the industry
01 Build your experience Think carefully about the role you are in as a step along your career path. Every job provides you with the opportunity to build your skill set; what are the skills you are missing in order to achieve that long-term goal? Sometimes, the opportunities to learn these new skills can be found right there in the organisation you are already working in!
02 Develop your skills Build on your strengths, and be open to new challenges. You may be more naturally creative, and lean towards those kinds of dayto-day activities, but marketers, for example, also need to build good analytical and project management skills. Make sure you are working on both the hard skills (job-specific) and soft skills (interpersonal) you’ll need to get ahead on your career path.
03 Be a Team Player Think about your reputation in the team and your organisation; are you a go-to person for getting things done? Do you roll up your sleeves and jump in to help the team get “mission accomplished”? Being seen as a genuine and enthusiastic team player are qualities that colleagues and employers always view highly, and will help you stand apart from the competition when it comes to job references.
04 Network One of the great things about the beauty industry is that it’s big enough to offer lots of opportunities, but small enough to enable you to build a network. A network can provide you with valuable insights about the industry itself, about companies and their cultures, and about job opportunities – perhaps even before they’re advertised. Start with your colleagues, your agency partners, your supervisors, and any friends working in the industry. Be sure to also use LinkedIn - make sure your profile looks and sounds professional and is always up to date! 74| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
CAREERS in the BEAUTY INDUSTRY TOP TIPS for success
by Michelle Heaps & Erica Oroszlany, Managing Partners, BeautyConnections Australia www.beauty-connections.com.au
Employers: How does your company attract top talent?
01 Build your social media presence
03 Value your time
Beauty companies are great at building a social media presence targeted at consumers, but what about potential employees? Have a look at what your competitors are doing on LinkedIn. Are their posts giving you a feel for their culture? Sharing company highlights, news and culture with potential employees on social media can help attract the right person for your organisation when the time comes.
But hold on, do you have the time to write the ad, post it, review 15-50 resumes, phonescreen, and then interview the best 3? And then do it all again if the first round was not suitable? When you add it all up, recruiting can take up to a week, or more. Do you have that time to spare?
02 Move quickly
You work with an advertising agency because they are advertising experts, you have a PR company to manage media relations, if you would rather focus on what you do best (marketing, sales, growing your business), then asking for professional help to recruit the best person for the role makes sense. After all, you are going to work with your new employee for some time, so isn’t it worth making an investment in choosing the right one?
So you’ve just had someone resign, and you’ve got 4 weeks to fill the position before the next strategy meetings start! You need to move fast. Applicants are putting themselves forward for other roles too, and if you delay looking at resumes or conducting interviews, you may miss the boat on securing the best talent.
04 Ask for help
www.beauty-connections.com.au
BUSINESS
eLearning:
The Way of the Future
Foundation – Makeup Course How to Choose a Foundation Type
red scout’s client L a g a r d è r e T r av e l R e ta i l s ay s :
Understanding Fragrance Module – Fragrance Express Course Opening Menu Page
Digital technology has revolutionised the way that we work and socialise, and now it is changing the way that we learn. Organisations are adapting, and continuing to adopt eLearning, currently at a pace of 13% per year. The beauty industry is following this trend, and continuously seeking ways to increase staff knowledge, customer service levels and sales. At the same time wanting to increase efficiencies and reduce costs, while also developing career paths and retaining staff – and most importantly, becoming an ‘employer of choice’. eLearning ticks all the boxes because it brings together Beauty Advisors from a variety of geographic locations in a virtual training community – saving time, money and reducing the operational impact of lost productivity.
In a dynamic, highly competitive beauty environment, it is no longer viable to rely on Face-to-Face training as the only training option for Beauty Advisors.
Foundation – Makeup Course Foundation Product Category – Click on each box for more information
BLEND YOUR LEARNING PROGRAM !
eLearning together with Face-to-Face training brings the ultimate learning scenario for Beauty Advisors. This provides multiple solutions for different learning KPIs including video, online training modules, webinar, online assessments, gamification, and training reward programs. Some examples of how eLearning can support traditional classroom training sessions include: - Pre-learning online modules for the BAs to complete before they attend their Face-to-Face training session. - Online assessment as follow up to Face-toFace training programs - On-boarding training prior to induction/ orientation training sessions to ensure they have the knowledge/skills needed to get started in the role. - Quick access and flexibility to complete their learning at a time, location, pace and language that suits them. - Convenient webinar scheduling to ensure BA training across wide geographic regions is regular. - Online tracking for training completed, assessment results and training reward programs empowers trainers with data to help with training strategy.
TA K E T R A I N I N G TO A N E W LEVEL… Keeping staff engaged, motivated and continuously learning is the key to success with any learning program. Red Scout design learning experiences for clients which are driven by a strong ROI and achievement of corporate KPIs. The learning experiences are ongoing from onboarding, induction and regular training and benchmarking programs to support career development.
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Lagardère Travel Retail chose Red Scout because they came highly recommended to deliver training that was cost effective. The training material was specifically developed for the Beauty industry to develop skill and competence. The team at Red Scout work with us and support the transfer of knowledge onto the service area which ultimately increase service and customer satisfaction . Lagardère Travel Retail train the staff online because the training provides the flexibility to our team to learn when, where and what they need. It also delivers learning at a pace to suit each person’s individual needs. The Beauty Advisors have responded positively and some of the comments include: - It was extremely insightful. In all my shopping experiences for fragrances, I have never been given such insight. - Having this knowledge will most definitely give us a competitive edge, by boosting customer service and overall sales. - I am genuinely delighted to have completed this express course.
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Linda Hosking - Learning and Development Manager–Pacific; Lagardère Travel Retail.
Red Scout are passionate about highly trained, competent Beauty Advisors, and have trained over 20,000 Beauty Advisors internationally. Red Scout specifically focuses on beauty, and clients are department stores, pharmacy chains, duty free organisations, speciality stores and online retailers. Red Scout can create end-to-end customised training solutions or provide off-the-shelf training programs (skincare, makeup, fragrance and customer sales & service). Pricing for off-the-shelf courses are as little as USD 13.50 per person per module www.redscoutonline.com ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|75
Shining A Light On
DARK SOCIAL
Dark Social sounds like an evil force partying in the shadowy corners of the internet but actually it’s a totally innocuous, personal and useful way to send social media messages and we all do it every day. So what is Dark Social? Unlike its other actually evil and evil named counterparts: Dark Web, Dark Nets and Deep Web, Dark Social is simply the sending of any social media message that cannot be tracked by analytics. The most common channels for Dark Social are email, WhatsApp, sms and Facebook Messenger: totally benign channels used by most of us, a lot. Radium One, a large scale on-line advertising platform working across all digital touch points, believes 70 per cent of all social 76| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
media behaviour is carried out through Dark Social and is currently pretty hard to track unequivocally.* Its survey, globally conducted across 9000 people by TPoll Marketing and Radium One, found that in every region and in nearly every content category, more sharing happens in Dark Social than all other sharing channels combined. Worldwide, Dark Social sharing is three times the size of Facebook sharing. That’s a whole load of dark sharing going on and those figures are most likely reflective of the situation. Think about it. You love a new restaurant and you think your foodie friend will love it too so you text her or email her the link. You don’t bombard all your Facebook
followers all over the world about a restaurant in downtown Sydney. Or, you see a service that might help a family member with a personal issue, help them make a decision or solve a problem so you need to inform them but at the same time keep it under the radar. So no broadcasting there also, an email will do the trick. Dark Social is especially important to the beauty, health and fitness industries as promotion of some products can border on also exposing some personal ailments or “weak” spots. The study also found that one third of us only refer via Dark Social.
DA RK S OCIA L T HE BRIGHT L IGH T OF ONLI NE M ARKETIN G!
Ironically, here is where the joy of Dark Social lies – it’s very often a one-to-one recommendation and the conversion rate is exceptionally high. How often have you converted when a friend has directly sent you a link? If you’ve not converted, you now have brand awareness and recognition. You might have brand recall and consideration and all from a strong, personal, trusted source. Dark Social is familiar and frequent. Its narrowcast nature can be more powerful to brands than other public platforms. Depending on the industry category, its message can carry more weight than a Facebook or Instagram post.
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Don’t be afraid of Dark Social, track as much as you can, ask questions, keep learning and understanding your customers.
BUSINESS
esprit Magazine promotion
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Seeing the Light So how do we measure Dark Social activity and makes sense and sales out of it?
URLS
make sharing easy
First thing, is to make sure the specific URLs you are using have some tracking capabilities. The best way to do this is to include a UTM tracking code in your generated URL. The UTM tracking will be able to record where the traffic is coming from i.e. a social platform or a newsletter, the medium i.e. an email and the campaign name. Correctly inputting these elements into a URL generator will help you later on find out where your links ended up.
With such high conversion rates and 70 per cent of us sharing through Dark Social you’d be crazy not to make it even easier for your customers to do it more. Sure it’s fiddly to track now but if it means solid referrals to sales or conversions, get on board! Add easily visible sharing widgets to campaigns and of course embed the UTM enhanced links and encourage your customers to share via these channels.
Your URLs should be short and branded. One of the easiest ways to get them is to use a Bitlink. Bitly also keeps track of your URLs. Bitly’s own analytics platform can give you some visibility on the popularity of the URL by total click and geographic location. It can also compare your top performing links in real time. You can enter in a UTM coded link into Bitly to generate a much prettier, shorter and importantly trackable URL also.
direct traffic links Another way you can deduce that traffic originated from Dark Social is by looking at the links your direct traffic analytics are showing. Extra-long intricate URLs that you can safely guess were not manually typed but were most probably copy-pasted are most likely generated from Dark Social.
c h e c k yo u r c h a n N e l s In this case, don’t get too hung up on all the social media metrics such as likes and reach. While they are important, they are part of the analytics road-map to help you devise a useful, adaptable online marketing strategy. For Dark Social you are mostly tracking optimised links so focus on analysing whole channels. You may find that your customers are active on mobile, so build an sms marketing campaign into your strategy or develop more frequent newsletters if they are responding well on email. Don’t be afraid of Dark Social, track as much as you can, ask questions, keep learning and understanding your customers.
need more tips?
LE T U S HE LP B Y GETTING IN TOU C H !
t. 02 9993 0450 e. joel @thedefectors.com.au www.thedefectors.com.au
*RadiumOne October 2014 ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|77
Turn your passion to profitability
5 tips to monetise your makeup artistry business Allow your business to flourish with tips from the Makeup Artist Guild’s CEO, and makeup artist, Melanie Burnicle
H ER E ARE FI VE TIPS F ROM THE M A K E U P ART I ST GUILD ASIA PAC IFI C T H AT CAN HE LP NURTURE YOUR B UD DI NG BU S INESS
One R EP RE S E NT YOUR B R A ND I N T HE BEST WAY P O S SI BLE “What many artists don’t realise is that from the minute a client looks at your social media accounts, website, or communicates with you via email or over the phone, they’re creating a perception of you and your personal brand. By earning their immediate trust, before you even meet them, you’ll be seen as credible and the master of your craft. There are a few simple ways to make sure your first impression is always a good one. Make sure you’re consistent across all social media platforms you’re utilising, as well as, your email. This can be as simple as creating a logo that represents you and your brand that can be used on your email signature, website and social media platforms.”
Two C H A RGE YO U R C LIENTS TH E RI G HT RATE “It’s important to understand your value and worth when charging clients. You’re providing an invaluable skillset and your precious time, and not to mention the product being used, so make sure you consider all these factors when charging clients. Undercutting the standard industry rates devalues the whole industry and makes it impossible for them to increase. When working out rates, break down your business costs including items such as your phone bill and website hosting. There’s no point advertising yourself but ending up in the red. Think about a minimum call-out fee so that each job large or small, is worth your while.” 78| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Three USE SO C I AL MEDI A TO PR OM OTE YO UR SELF “Social media is one of the most effective and cheapest ways to market yourself in this industry. Utilise it to its fullest potential and you can easily boost your brand power. But keep it professional by separating your personal life from work one. Post quality content that’s relevant to your brand, clients don’t want to know what you had for breakfast or read a rant about your thoughts on the current political climate. Treat each channel differently. Instagram is for posting beautiful imagery while Facebook is more a fully-fledged social media platform and more communicative.”
UNITING D N A G N I R U T NUR G N I R E W O P M E ARTISTS MAGAP is the trusted voice for the makeup community; aiming to unite all genres of makeup artists in the Asia Pacific region. Join our community of makeup artists to learn more about how to help your makeup artistry business thrive. Head to www.themagap.com sign up to receive up to date information on your industry.
Four M ANAG E YO UR F I NANC ES SUC C ESSF ULLY “Depending on how big your business is you may consider using an online accounting system such as Xero, MYOB or QuickBooks. These systems make it easy to manage your finances and submit your BAS or PAYG tax. Work with an accountant who is familiar with the makeup artistry industry to fully understand what you can and can’t claim as a sole trader or PTY LTD company. It’s also important to understand what types of insurance you’re required by law to have and which ones are smart ways to protect yourself. A client might have an adverse reaction to a product or property damage may occur and you can be held accountable. Insurance will protect you.”
Five TUR N TO A B USI NE S S MEN TO R “If you’re looking to start a business and take your makeup artistry to the next level, a business mentor is an excellent way to guide you through the process successfully. They’ll help bring your business to life by giving you clarity, workshopping your ideas and sharing tips on how to become profitable. You’ll receive homework and learn how to be held accountable for your actions and business making decisions. It’s a wonderful process that allows you to not only build a thriving business but to grow personally.”
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE: WHAT’S AHEAD FOR BEAUTYAND TECHNOLOGY?
BUSINESS
ONLINE SHOPPING TRENDS
By Kate Morris founder adorebeauty.com.au
We live in exciting times. Technology is continuing to open up new ways for brands and retailers to provide our customers with an enhanced experience. What are the technologies that might shape the future of beauty retail?
Augmented reality As the name suggests, augmented reality (AR) technology creates effects that overlay or add to the real world. Pokemon Go has been one of the most popular games recently utilising AR; but in the beauty world, there is huge potential to use AR for “try-on” or “magic mirror” applications for makeup. L’Oréal’s Makeup Genius app is a prime example, where the user can view makeup shades on their own image in real time. I think in future we will see the YouTube gurus delivering their makeup lessons via this technology. Imagine having Zoella or Lisa Eldridge showing you how create their latest makeup looks - on your own face!
3D makeup printing Hands up if you watched Luc Besson’s 1997 movie, The Fifth Element, and your biggest jaw-dropping moment was when Milla Jovovich’s character applied her eye makeup instantly with a Chanel compact that looked like a pair of ski goggles. (I think I actually drooled a little bit.) Well, science fiction may soon become science fact. Foreo - the makers of skin gadgets such as the Luna silicone sonic cleanser - have released a promotional video for a prototype 3D makeup printer called the Moda. According to the video, Moda scans your face, then uses 3D printing to spray mineral makeup “ink” onto your face to create a range of makeup looks in around 30 seconds. The price for Moda hasn’t been released yet (it’s still in invitation-only beta), but I’m definitely putting this gadget on my wishlist.
AI-driven recommendations When we think of artificial intelligence (AI), we probably think of the Hollywood version: robots with feelings, or malevolent computers. In reality this term applies when we create software that can use information to make decisions, and to improve those decisions by learning over time. There is tremendous potential to use AI to analyse huge data sets of customer behaviour - what customers bought, and how much they liked it - to create very powerful tools for product recommendations. What if we could pinpoint exactly which shade of lipstick or which brand of moisturiser was going to rock our customer’s world the moment she walks into our store or clicks onto our website? We could save her from ever wasting her money again, and thus create a loyal customer for life. That’s the future of customer service! ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|79
Staying sun safe with sunscreen Are you quite sunsible, semi-sunsible or perhaps just a little bit sun silly...?! Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world. In fact, two in three Australians are diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 70. Many Australians know that sun protection is important. And that sunscreen is an important part of protecting your skin from the harmful effects of the sun – along with a hat, protective clothing, shade and sunglasses. But how many Australians know how much sunscreen to use, how often to apply, and what different sunscreen terms such as ‘broad spectrum’ and ‘SPF’ actually mean? Sunsible is a new sunscreen information website at sunsible.org.au. Sunsible is all about staying sun safe with sunscreens. It is a consumer-focussed, brand-neutral website
promoting the essential role of sunscreens in human health protection, and encouraging the proper use of sunscreen. The site covers information on: • what sunscreen is, including: how sunscreens work, what types are available, and the meaning of ‘broad spectrum’, ‘SPF’ and ‘water resistant’ • why sunscreen is important – in the context of a holistic sun-protection regime – including: the effects of UV radiation, a snapshot of skin cancer in Australia, factors that affect the impact of sun exposure, who needs sunscreen, and whether sunscreens are safe to use • the proper use of sunscreen, including: when to use sunscreen, which sunscreen to choose, how much sunscreen to use, how to apply and store sunscreen, and using sunscreen on babies • other sun-protection and skin health
measures, including: being ‘SunSmart’ with ‘Slip Slop Slap Seek Slide’, the dangers of tanning, sun protection versus vitamin D requirements, and how to check skin for cancer There is also a Sunsible quiz to test your knowledge about skin health and sun protection. We encourage you to see for yourself at www. sunsible.org.au, and to promote the site as a valuable industry initiative. This could include referring consumer or media enquiries to Sunsible and linking Sunsible to your website. Accord Australasia is the peak body representing all companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au
Accord Cosmetic & Personal Care Conference 2016 Co-hosted this year with the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists Some 200 delegates from leading local and global cosmetic and personal care companies converged on Sydney’s Amora Hotel for a day of networking and discussion of current issues. Held alongside significant International Standards Organization meetings for cosmetics and sunscreens also hosted in Sydney, the Conference attracted a strong contingent of international industry guests. The day began with a welcome from Vice President South Pacific Region for ColgatePalmolive and Accord Australasia’s Chairman, Chris Pedersen who delivered a thought provoking opening address introducing the 80| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
theme of the conference – Cosmetics; Innovation, Communication, Contemporary regulation. Keynote speaker, Dr Branwen Morgan, science communication specialist, energised attendees with a talk titled ‘Risk and regulation – why perception matters’. Speaking on the industry’s need for clear, consistent, communication, even in advance of controversy, Branwen urged attendees to collect and collate positive information, to simplify and proactively spread this, calling for greater collaboration across the industry, for example, greater utilisation of Accord’s acclaimed information website on myths and misconceptions
www.furphies.org.au. Dr Margaret Hartley, CEO of the Australian Academy of Technological Science and Engineering (ATSE) also spoke passionately about the need for greater collaboration to maximise the innovation opportunities for the cosmetic industry and greater interaction with scientists and academia. The cosmetics industry’s strong innovation potential and its role in bettering society were showcased in three inspiring case studies. These focused on encouraging and rewarding recycling through Sustainable Salons Australia (www.sustainablesalons.com.au), the use
of the humble moisturiser in treating debilitating skin disease in developing economies and Croda Australia’s sustainability and innovation agenda for its portfolio of cosmetic ingredients. Further technical sessions featured a range of cosmetic industry experts speaking on key issues such as sun protection, microbiology, organic and natural cosmetics, cosmetic claims and safety and other global trends. Alongside these sessions was a special CEO Forum targeting contemporary business issues such as the state of the Australian and global economy and the benefits of free trade agreements. A panel discussion featuring representatives of the Australian Health Department, the Accord Board and international industry bodies Cosmetics Europe and the US Personal Care Products Council explored the key elements of contemporary regulation both globally and
for Australia. And the Conference proceedings concluded with a speech by Dr Alain Khaiat, Chairman of ISO TC217 – cosmetic, on regulatory convergence and the role of the International Standards Organisation in advancing global harmonisation of cosmetic regulation. (A detailed program and full list of speakers is still available on the Accord website.) The event closed with a cocktail function and fundraising for the cosmetic industry’s charity, Look Good Feel Better. Bronwyn Capanna tells esprit: “Our 2016 Conference was supported by an array of wonderful sponsors – Estée Lauder Companies (platinum), Avon (gold), Colgate-Palmolive (silver), esprit Magazine Australia, Eurofins/ams laboratories, RFA regulatory consultants, and TressCox Lawyers (bronze).”
Accord’s Celebration dinner for Gavin Blackburn
1: Craig Brock - Policy & Public Affairs Director, Accord and Conference MC 2: Graeme Howard, Accord Life Member (former Revlon Asia Pacific CEO) with Bronwyn Capanna, Executive Director Accord and Terry Little, Managing Director Estée Lauder Companies Australia
1: Gavin Blackburn, retiring Managing Director, Coty & Accord Life Member with Terry Little, Managing Director Estée Lauder Companies Australia & Vice-Chairman, Accord and Chris Pedersen, Vice President South-Pacific Region and Managing Director Australia, ColgatePalmolive & Chairman, Accord 2: Gavin speaking at his dinner with Robyn 3: Robyn and Gavin Blackburn 4: Robyn and Gavin Blackburn 5: Table setting at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney 6: Terry Little, Managing Director, Estée Lauder Companies Australia with Andrea Ferrari, Managing Director, esprit Magazine Australia
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An intimate industry dinner was hosted by Accord in December 2016 at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney to celebrate the achievements of Gavin Blackburn, retiring Coty Managing Director. Gavin retired as Managing Director in September 2016, a position he held for 17 years. In recognition of his significant contribution to the cosmetic industry, Gavin has been inducted as Accord’s most recent Life Member, an award
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reserved for industry leaders who have tirelessly gone out of their way to strengthen our industry. Industry leaders, associates and members of his family joined Gavin and wife Robyn to celebrate Gavin’s exciting 40 year career. Under his leadership, Coty has been an ever present and significant supporter of the Look Good Feel Better charity’s major fundraiser, Dream Ball. “Gavin’s commitment to Accord and Look Good Feel Better has never wavered and we are
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pleased to announce that he will continue to add considerable counsel to the ongoing governance of Look Good Feel Better by staying on the Board of the Cancer Patient’s Foundation of Australia. Thank you again Gavin, your commitment and contribution to the industry is well recognised and will always be greatly appreciated!” says Bronwyn Capanna
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In The Know! If you love what you do – every day – then why not be even better at it? Those who upskill will upsell. It’s well known that knowledge is power – it gives you the power to represent your brand with confidence and flair and build the loyalty of your customer base. Continual learning will improve your knowledge and enhance your expertise.
Rosehip Oil improves the appearance of: -
Scars Stretch marks Skin pigmentation Fine Line & Wrinkles
Going over and above to improve your skills today is being supported by brands and retailers who are providing time and avenues for this to happen. Before we look at how Trilogy has created a solution to provide ongoing BA training in a flexible, cost and time-effective way, let’s hear from a retailer who’s using video tutorials that BAs can watch anywhere, any time.
In the beauty industry it’s critical to learn about new products and understand what the brand/ company is all about: application, features and benefits, and their point of difference over a competitor product. With work and family/ life commitments and choices, it can be tricky fitting in work learning. Bravo, the brands and retailers who understand this and are taking responsibility for creating ways BAs can do their brand education on the move AND, in some cases, in newly-created learning time at work. Angela Shepherd - Cosmetic & Fragrance Category Manager, Malouf Pharmacies tells esprit Magazine that her company’s business has introduced an instore training platform called PLEX. “I source the videos from suppliers and upload them and the team can watch in their lunch break etc. It’s going really well and the take-up has been extremely good – it’s great when you want to put in a new brand but can’t get around to train them. We just put in this amazing new Australian lash brand called Sarah Jean Lashes and we uploaded a how-to video and the sales have been really good. It’s well suited too, for regional stores – with more and more reps cutting regional travel – this fills the gap.” It’s engaging, relevant, gets 84| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
the education across and can be watched on the move, during travel time and at lunchtime. Trilogy is launching its new e-learning platform in February 2017 which the company is keen to point out supplements face-to-face training, rather than replace it. “The objective is to help retailers understand the brand, our values and what the company is all about, as well as providing thorough education about our products and how they meet their customers’ needs,” says Ivy Thomson, Sales and Training Specialist. Trilogy’s e-learning is set up to learn in 5-15 minute modules. Easy bite-sized sessions are accessible 24/7 and can be done as individual modules until the program is completed. There are seven modules which include interactive customer scenarios, brand values, third-party certifications (NATRUE and BioGro) explained and company commitment to the environment. Product modules include interactive videos, key ingredients and benefits, the core customer, recommended usage, culminating with the seventh module focusing on how to sell Trilogy. BAs completing all seven modules become aTrilogist and are awarded a certificate, a
uniform pin and product gift pack while also being recognised by the company to go out and spread the word. There’s even an Avatar icon in the e-learning which gives quirky facts. The idea is for the Trilogists to have extra nuggets of information, tips and tricks that not everyone knows - the Trilogists’ secrets. “Brands can create interesting, accessible education programs, but it’s important for individuals to take ownership to improve themselves and for retailers to take responsibility for creating time and opportunities at work for learning.” says Ivy. Training needs to be a collaboration between brand, retailer and BA to improve their knowledge which results in improved sales; they earn more and the retailer sells more. It’s a win-win for everyone. Trilogy’s program is interactive, with quizzes, real life situations, flexibility and 24/7 accessibility. It’s mobile-friendly and easily accessible on desktop, laptop and tablet, so BAs can learn at their own pace, on the move, as and when they choose, says Gaëlle Thieme, Trilogy Global Marketing Manager. As brands go international, the e-learning option means every BA around the world gets the same training message on the brand, products and company values.
Learn you w where a spe ant, at ed suits that you.
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The magic of
Chloe Morello Starting her YouTube channel in 2012, Chloe loved escaping the boredom of her home-town job in a Canberra cemetery - yes, it’s true - by creating online makeup tutorials. Discovering a digital community of like-minded beauty enthusiasts was a revelation for Chloe and she revelled in the artistic outlet that her fledgling YouTube channel provided. esprit Magazine chats with Jill Birmingham – Talent Director at MAXCONNECTORS, Chloe Morello’s manager.
Today Chloe Morello’s wide appeal can be attributed to a mixture of magical elements. She is a perfect combination of someone whom young women can aspire to be like, and also someone who you just want to hang out with over a glass of wine. Her down-toearth attitude, sharp wit and ability to poke fun at herself ensures that Chloe injects fun personality into all of her content and women around the world can relate to her. She intentionally keeps video bloopers in, where others might edit them out, and she doesn’t ever take herself too seriously – all characteristics that her millions of fans find irresistible. Chloe’s YouTube trailer video is a great example of this. It shows her filming in her bedroom with a faux wind machine, being interrupted by her Mother, before all her props start falling down around her, and all the while Chloe keeps a poker face. Also in the early days she had a wardrobe malfunction – oblivious she carried on and it all stayed in the video. It sums her up perfectly. She’s someone you could easily imagine as one of your best friends. 82| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Unlike the glamourous stars of Hollywood with unattainable lifestyle for most of us, Chloe is truly the girl-next-door. Along with this, Chloe is a naturally talented makeup artist and despite never having any formal training in cosmetics, has an acute understanding of colour, balance and form – all vital when creating a beauty look. Chloe has learnt many beauty tricks having studied and made up her own face over the years, and is 100% more confident doing her own face than anyone else’s. This means she has the perfect canvass to demonstrate application. She has also had the privilege of meeting many global makeup directors as part of her journey that’s driven her a career as a beauty influencer. In a combination of research and personal interest she has watched tens of thousands of YouTube beauty videos during this time and is a risk taker when it comes to creating new
looks. Chloe’s physical beauty ensures that she never takes a bad photo however she insists on never air-brushing her images, allowing natural blemishes and skin texture to always be on show. This honesty appeals to her evergrowing audience. She’s…just normal! It’s impossible to identify the special formula that makes a video go viral - it’s almost always a mishap – think of most ‘virals’ and they have been more of an hilarious blooper or beliefdefying accident. However Chloe has managed to stay on top of her game by creating hugely popular videos that are always relevant for her audience. She reads all of the comments on her videos and often takes direction from her fans when creating a video concept. If they ask her to recreate a certain look then she will. If her audience says “I love it when you do …” she responds with a new twist on just that thing. Chloe always keeps up with social and
beauty trends and attributes Kim Kardashian to making makeup fashionable again. When Kylie Jenner emerged as the next Jenner/ Kardashian to watch, Chloe created a “get Kylie’s look” video, again giving her audience exactly what they were looking for at the time. She’s even ahead of trends, having her radar tuned to what just might be the next big thing in beauty. Then she can create a video before her audience even know they want it. For example, as soon as the Victoria’s Secret runway show was done, she created a video on how to create the makeup look. One of Chloe’s most popular videos was a winged eyeliner video which not only was instructional but answered questions that many amateur makeup lovers needed answering. Delivered in a simple, easy to follow manner, this instructional video has garnered a whopping 5.2m views since its upload in
2012. Slightly quirky or controversial video content often gets picked up by lifestyle websites and gathers momentum around the world. For example a recent video that Chloe filmed showed her shaving her face to ensure foundation goes on smoothly and evenly. This received a lot of press coverage and drove high video views on her platform. Another (tongue in cheek) video on full body contouring received 2.4m views and again was picked up by several publications around the world. Most recently Chloe’s successes have taken her “off platform” including a starring role in a Colgate TVC along with fellow beauty YouTuber Lauren Curtis. This was the first time a beauty YouTuber had featured as herself on a TV commercial, securing the celebrity status of the digital superstars of today. Global cosmetics giant Revlon also recently partnered with Chloe on the co-creation of a makeup
palette, making industry news as one of less than a handful of YouTubers to partner with a global makeup brand on a product co-creation, and a first for Revlon. Chloe worked out very early in her career that you’ve got to know your territory and she’s travelled a steep path, but on that journey she’s kept her feet very much on the ground. To work with Chloe contact Jill Birmingham at MAXCONNECTORS.
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BEAUTY & THE BEST
i wanna hold your hand
Here we ask beauty advisors from pharmacy and department stores their top tips for maximizing on the power of human interaction.
Touch, in today’s world of the tap, scan, swipe ‘n’ go society, is less likely to happen than in the days of the handshake to seal a deal. However, as beauty advisors you are in the perfect role and environment to provide the personal touch, the meaningful eye-to-eye contact and the hearing ear. It’s that all-powerful human touch that online shopping could never replace. Internet psychologist Graham Jones says: “Understanding customers is the most important and most profit-producing element of business and is much easier and better done by people; virtual assistants and avatars have a long, long way to go to achieve what we can do even subconsciously.” Targets are not made through cash ‘n’ wrap, nor do you want them to be. We are all well aware of the benefits of building rapport, listening and, importantly, hearing what the customer is saying, being friendly and helpful – genuinely providing that customer with respectful service to make her/his day.
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Andrew Piroso Company: Giorgio Armani Store: David Jones Bourke Street Melbourne VIC In today’s society the human touch can create long lasting relationships between the consultant, customer and the brand product. From personal experience I note the difference has been the face to face service we provide with Giorgio Armani and the genuine belief in the superiority in our brand. Along with the need to customise our service to each customer and endeavoring to find further benefits to enhance that experience. We are, at the end of the day, the ambassador for our brand and these relationships help drive and form our business, making us unique in the ever-growing field of products. I have seen an enormous growth over the years from creating this tailored experience for our customers. Creating relationships that expand outside of just sales. These return-customers become a strong driver in our business. We see that these human interactions cultivate an enjoyable shopping relationship, from a welcoming smile, listening, meeting their needs and keeping in contact to genuinely going above and beyond based on their personal needs and a feel-good outcome.
element adds a layer of worth to the object. The history of each fragrance is captivating and enhanced by the customer purchasing; it may have been worn by a celebrity but the journey takes its most interesting turn when they wear it on their wedding day or it becomes the smell they associate with Paris because they wore it on the Eifel Tower. When you are the acme of prestige and luxury you need to be able to offer the customer more than just a product description, more than just a list of features and benefits, you are helping them to create their own story.
Mai Dang Company: Clarins Group Store: David Jones Queens Plaza Brisbane QLD All employees are the face of their brand. I think of this every morning when I’m getting ready for work. I’m lucky because Napoleon Perdis celebrates the individual stories of not only its customers but its employees. My brand inspires my style, and I want to inspire my clients in the same way. I make sure my makeup is on point, and current with the company’s direction. I ensure my outfit is clean, has an overall message, and represents myself but also supports the company’s roots, Fashion, Art and Culture. The last thing I do before I leave home is look in my full-length mirror and think: “If my company were a magazine and they asked me to be on the cover today, would I need to change anything?”
Ellen Jacks Company: Agence de Parfum Store: David Jones Bourke Street Melbourne VIC The convenience of online shopping cannot compete with the pleasure an in-store shopping experience can provide. In store we are able to offer our expertise directly as well as a human connection. Personally, great customer service has always been about story telling. It is human impulse to tell stories and on a daily basis we bond through sharing them. I am very fortunate to work with the world’s most luxurious perfume houses, each fragrance with its own unique story, whether it be history, ingredients, formulation or who wore it, each
human contact can be for our business. Some of my top tips would be to remember when approaching a customer that even though we do this every day, for a lot of our customers this may be the first time they have approached a cosmetic counter. Therefore, it’s important to make them feel welcome and engage in conversation by asking questions; you will find most people love talking about themselves. By remembering facts about them on their return visits they will feel that you have listened and taken an interest in them, and that you genuinely care about their needs. Over time you will earn their loyalty, which leads to return business. I have had many loyal customers follow me to different store locations and even change brands with me. I am a firm believer that you should always leave people better than you found them.
Briana Mazzeo Company: Elizabeth Arden Store: Myer Garden City Perth WA Having worked in this industry for 30 years I have seen many changes in how and why people shop. What has not changed is that we all like to feel special and feel good about ourselves. In this world of staring at our screens, I believe now more than ever how powerful
B r i t ta n y D e n t o n Corporate Brand Coach Company: Dermalogica Store: Crow’s Nest, Sydney NSW
As a Dermalogica Skin Therapist I strongly believe that the power of touch plays a big role in not only my personalised treatments and prescriptions, but also in building rapport and relationships with my customers. First impressions start with eye contact, a friendly smile and genuine hello. I ensure I have several ‘touch points’ with my customers, the first being a gentle and reassuring touch on the arm or the shoulder as I ask my customer to take a seat at the Skin Bar. This small human connection is a great way of building trust and providing reassurance. The second touch point is when I connect my touch to the customer’s skin. This can be either by placing product the customer is interested in on their hand for them to try, or as I start to touch their facial skin when conducting my FaceMapping skin analysis. I use the power of touch by using my fingers which act as ‘individual detectives’ to touch and feel across my customer’s skin. I’m looking, feeling and asking about any skin challenges and concerns they may have. It’s always important to connect human touch with good human communication by remembering to compliment them on the positive areas of their skin and homecare
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routine. I always try to ensure my customer experiences the product on their own skin, before I ask for a sale. After all, I would never buy a pair of shoes without trying them on first, nor would I purchase skincare products without firstly trying it. As an ending touch point I’ll guide my customer with a gentle supportive hand off their seat, perhaps touch them on the shoulder one more time as I thank them for the opportunity to serve them, and on occasion when it feels appropriate, I take their hand in both of mine and give them a small, gentle appreciative shake. These small gestures I believe have the ability to shape my relationships with my customers and in turn it definitely helps my sales.
to our customers’ needs. Diamond Service is about ongoing education and demonstration. With demonstration you get customers to experience products on their skin/body and they fall in love with La Prairie immediately. We know that our products are unequalled in scientific research, quality, performance and results – everything our customers deserve when they come on the La Prairie journey and they are never disappointed.
Kitty Chung Company: Benefit Store: Myer Melbourne VIC
Sharan Sandhu Company: La Prairie Store: David Jones Bourke Street Melbourne VIC At La Prairie, we pride ourselves on luxury service and approach. It is important to read your customers’ expectations and be prepared to service them through listening to their concerns. Every client experience at La Prairie begins with being invited to take a seat. Through our Diamond Service program we can effectively establish each customer’s needs and desires by establishing rapport, trust and confidence. We believe it is important to be acutely responsive to our customers’ questions, as engaged customers are more satisfied, more loyal and likely to spread positive word of mouth about the brand. My team and I do a follow-up call with each and every customer on our database to ensure they receive an ongoing personalised service, even after their visit. Regular communication ensures that customers are able to replenish products through participating in an event or simply keeping them posted about current promotions. Not only does this build further loyalty, it strengthens our repeat business. This personalised approach sets us apart as we believe in providing a memorable experience at every customer touchpoint. Whether it be a complexion colour match, full make over, hand massage or consultation - every customer needs to be the centre of our attention. We do not believe in the hard sell at La Prairie, rather a long term strategy is the best way to build a business through nurturing and responding
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Part of the Benefit DNA is Making Real Connections, which is something I’ve really come to value over the last six years working on the cosmetic floor. There’s something that we can offer face to face that can’t be compared to learning things online - it’s that real opportunity to tailor the products and application style to your individual client. With Benefit, Make a Dates keep our customers coming back and learning more. By rebooking them in for a one-on-one lesson, they get the chance to get the most out of their products. Nobody on the internet can tell them which brow shape suits them most, which foundation application is best, or where exactly they need to highlight and contour! By getting them to sit down and spend time with us, we can teach them new skills, choose the right products and help them refine their technique. They’ll trust you! I’ve had many customers call me when they’ve got special events coming up so they can learn to do a smokey eye. One of them has started calling me their “makeup mum”, since her own mother didn’t wear makeup! I believe seeing people you’ve helped grow and learn is the most rewarding thing about what we do.
Angela Said Company: Estée Lauder Store: Myer Doncaster VIC
In a digital age where communication through text messaging, emails and social media is dominant, we can often forget the simple benefits of face-to-face interaction. As an Estée Lauder Beauty Advisor, I pride myself in providing personalised customer service which is tailored to the customers’ individual needs. Customer understanding and rapport is the foundation in ensuring an optimum customer experience is achieved. It’s about building a common bond and trust; yet above all, it’s about having a genuine interest in their needs and acknowledging them as a person and not just a dollar sign. Here are my top tips for successful customer satisfaction: First impressions can make all the difference. Introduce yourself, ask their name and listen. Take a personal interest by getting to know the person beyond a superficial level. Smile. It’s simple, but so contagious! This will make you seem approachable and make your customers feel at ease. Give them the ultimate beauty experience. Sit them down and demonstrate the application of the product(s). This will enable you to showcase your tips and tricks. Remember, you have the power to create a long lasting impression and give them an experience a digital screen can’t.
K a r e n F o r wa r d Company: Malouf Pharmacies Store: Bundaberg Bundaberg QLD My goal for every customer is for them to feel they are the most important person in my world. I want them to leave with a satisfied smile. I engage with eye contact and a smiley greeting. By listening to the customer, reading their body language, and directly addressing their reasons for shopping, with relevant wisdom, you will create an atmosphere of trust. That trust is reinforced by doing as much training and gaining as much knowledge as you can. Steph is a lady who shopped with us regularly but never in my section. Her body language was stand-offish and shy. After a year of greeting her by name and striking up conversation, she eventually asked for advice on a moisturiser. After listening to her skincare concerns and asking questions, I provided her with the relevant products. She left feeling in control of her situation. Steph has since become my biggest loyal client and I’m now servicing some of her friends as well.
Prescription for a Career by Elisabeth King
What personal skills are required to be a pharmacist? Clinical savvy, a thorough understanding of science and health and a talent for business. Good communication skills for advising doctors, colleagues and patients are also high on the checklist. Little wonder that consumer surveys of the most trusted professionals in Australia place skilled, motivated pharmacists near the top of the rankings. The pharmacist’s job is a very specialised one, says Rachel McAdam, Medical Relations Manager for La Roche-Posay, the fast-growing dermo-cosmetic skincare brand owned by L’Oréal. “Even as a teenager, I had a huge desire to know the purpose of each ingredient in a skincare product. When I was studying for my pharmacy degree, I worked part-time in Roads Fashion in Perth and as a pharmacy assistant. In both jobs, I learned how good it feels to be able to help people”. Career progression as a pharmacist can go in several directions. Some graduates move to management/director level, become selfemployed, work as locums, prefer to teach or specialise in areas such as toxicology. “My first job as a registered community pharmacist was with the Friendlies Pharmacy group in WA. You definitely need to be versatile and ready for anything from methadone programs to being an accessible health professional for all ages and types of people”. McAdam also took on the demanding role of lab tutor, mentoring pharmacy students. “When I moved to Melbourne, I also pursued my earlier interest in skincare and completed a graduate course in dermatology at Monash University”.
Learning the basics of merchandising, finance and management was also invaluable, says McAdam. “I joined the My Chemist group and worked in the Doncaster store. The experience really taught me how to operate a busy store and work under pressure. I also had to learn how to manage a team. When I first started, pharmacy staff were more mature in age and more experienced and customers placed great trust in them. Today, I find that many pharmacy assistants are in their 20s and pharmacists have to give them more attention to improve their skillsets”. Advising on widespread skin conditions has become a much larger part of the pharmacy business, says Mc Adam. “After four years at My Chemist, I decided to make a career shift. I became a pharmacy rep to doctors at Genepharm, one of Australia’s top generic pharmaceutical companies at the time. They specialised in skincare products to treat major skincare concerns such as acne and psoriasis, and I had to deal with GPs and dermatologists”. McAdam admits that the move was a humbling experience. “People look up to you when you are a pharmacist and I learned that being a sales rep knocking on doors wasn’t for me in the long term, but it did give me an insight on the tenacity and perseverance required by medical reps. I was appointed National Dermatology Manager for Genepharm and built up strong relationships with dermatologists around Australia”. A network that proved invaluable when L’Oréal advertised for a dermatology expert for La Roche-Posay. “The role was very important to the brand as one of the leading players in the global dermo-cosmetic category”, says McAdam. “I had four interviews to determine if I was suitable for the role which required both dermatology and pharmacy experience. My first title was Scientific Communications Manager and I was in charge of educational programs and material. La Roche-Posay has a strong team of reps and they play a very important part in building the brand’s strong relationships with pharmacists and the medical
MY JOURNEY
RACHEL McADAM
profession”. McAdam’s job title has changed to Medical Relations Manager. “I have the best of both worlds. La Roche-Posay offers elegant formulas with a dermatological mission. Every ingredient has a purpose and the appealing textures ensure compliance. When a doctor or dermatologist requires clinical data, we have a major track record in providing the scientific information required and can back up our claims. Our products do what they say they will do in the effective treatment of widespread skin conditions such as acne and eczema. The sort of credibility that appeals to my nerd side”. Today, many consumers consult “Dr Google” before they walk into a pharmacy and you have to talk the talk, says McAdam. “Consumers are so well-researched that you have to answer any questions in a more indepth way. I train the team to be able to deal with everything they will be faced with, whether the person making the query is a doctor, dermatologist or consumer. That’s why La Roche-Posay is so proud of earning the trust of doctors and dermatologists worldwide who recommend our products as solutions to their skin problems”. McAdam also works one day a week at My Chemist. Part of having a scientific bent comes with curiosity, probity and logical thinking, and she still likes to help people as well as stay in touch with the opinions and needs of consumers. “Even at L’Oréal head office, my colleagues still ask for advice on a wide range of issues from pimples to constipation. As a pharmacist you need to develop an attitude that encourages people to feel free to communicate with you. I still love giving advice to consumers and explaining how to use medicines and skincare properly”. McAdam says that the best career advice she can give, whatever the role is – Don’t be afraid to take a step back to take two steps forward. “Everything you do teaches you so much. I didn’t love being a medical rep, for example, but the experience helps me to advise and understand members of the La Roche-Posay team. It was also my first step into skincare and led to the job I love today”. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017|89
Brand
NEWS Ecoya limited editions Ecoya Limited Edition scents joining the collection are Sweet Strawberry & Blackberry Leaf and Crisp Aqua & Tiare Flower. Due in store in February 2017 they will be available for six months, or while stocks last. They are housed in the iconic Ecoya Madison Jar and recently released Mini Reed Diffuser. Other features: soy wax and lead-free wicks. Sweet Strawberry & Blackberry Leaf is presented in a dusty pink carton, whilst the Crisp Aqua & Tiare Flower is in a deep ocean blue carton, both feature silver detailing. Madison Jars $39.95AU / $49.95NZ; Mini Reed Diffusers $25.95AU / $29.95NZ.
RIMMEL LIQUID LINER Rimmel Scandaleyes Bold Liquid Liner delivers a dark, waterproof liner that lasts up to 24 hours, meaning it stays put for a good day’s wear. Its innovative ball-tip is designed to give precise application. The rich black pigments provide colour intensity with a glossy finish. And it’s easy to remove. RRP $13.95 from March 2017 from Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W, selected pharmacies and selected Coles and Woolworths.
Parisienne Palette
Bourjois once again reinterprets the Nudes with its very Parisian signature. Inspired by the Chic Minimalist trend, Les Nudes Palette by Bourjois offers eight harmonious eyeshadow shades to be used separately or mixed together. Nudes are twisted with coloured accents. The case is decorated with a sketch of a Parisienne girl with a statement look, which opens up to the palette and a panoramic mirror. The melting cream powder formula, with up to 12 hours hold, is workable for an adjustable intensity for a discreet or bold makeup result. The double-ended applicator has a foam tip and a precise tip. RRP 28.00. Available March 2017 at Priceline.
Trefiel lacy mask additions Trefiel adds to its Moisturising Lace Hydrogel Mask launched in late 2015 with three new hydrogel masks: Brightening, Repairing and Firming, all in black lacy sheet format. Created to target different skin concerns, the formulas are new, but the commitment to plant-based pampering remains. According to Co-Founder Lucy Bloomfield: “The new range of formulas targets all skin concerns while delivering incredible hydration. It’s designed to be an easy four-mask journey to beautiful skin.” Each mask includes four key ingredients for optimal hydration – aloe vera, hydrolysed collagen, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E. The products are Non-GMO and cruelty free. Co-Founder Michael Tremeer says the unique selling point has been getting the customers involved in the rebranding process. Available from selected pharmacy and health stores nationwide: Single mask RRP$9.95, five masks RRP$39.95 and 10 Masks RRP$69.95.
MODERN MUSE NUIT Inspired by opulence and intrigue, Modern Muse Nuit is the deeper, nocturnal alternative to its daytime namesake. The Floral Woody Oriental scent blends sophisticated florals with creamy woods for a lushly vibrant yet luxuriously warm scent. Glamour, mystery and compelling sensuality, this innovative dual-impression fragrance structure allows women to experience the fragrance through two contrasting accords: florals and woods. Kendall Jenner stars in the Modern Muse Nuit campaign. RRP EdP 50ml, $145.00 and 30ml, $110.00. Complementing the launch is Modern Muse Nuit Makeup Collection. To achieve Kendall’s look, use two limited editions: Modern Muse Nuit Pure Color Envy Eyeshadow Palette and Modern Muse Nuit Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick for evening elegance. At Estée Lauder counters nationwide and major airports beginning in 29th January, 2017.
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Marc Jacobs daisy kiss editions are inspired by the vivid bursts of colour in Marc Jacobs’ resort fashion collections: vibrant, bold and striking. The bottles are dressed in a bright pink gradation, said to evoke the thrilling emotion of a kiss – seen here. Each is an EdT. Marc Jacobs daisy kiss: an uplifting bouquet of floral and fruity notes. Perfumer: Richard Herpin at Firmenich. RRP 50ml $80.00. Marc Jacobs daisy dream kiss: a luminous combination of luscious fruit notes and sun-drenched florals. Perfumer: Amandine Clerc Marie at Firmenich. RRP 50ml $89.00. Marc Jacobs daisy eau so fresh kiss: a light and radiant blend of peony, cherry blossom and rose petals. Perfumer: Olivier Cresp at Firmenich. RRP 75ml $99.00. Available 27th February at selected Myer, David Jones and stores nationally.
BRAND NEWS
Daisy Kiss Collection
BOURJOIS SUN ILLUSION Bourjois Paris Sun Illusion summer makeup collection focuses on an elegant style and golden glow. BB Bronzing Cream gives an instant glow and evens out skin tone and texture to promote radiance, RRP $24.00. Color Boost lip crayon has a melting formula that moisturises the lips in a range of colours. This collection favours Lolli Pop red. RRP $15.00. Delice de Poudre bronzing powders give subtle iridescence with flecks of gold. There are two formats for different results: Bronzing Powder for fair to medium skin, and Bronzing Powder + Highlighter Duo for contouring and enhancing facial features, RRP $23.00. Sculpt Light Strobing Highlighter will illuminate and sculpt facial features: cheekbones, brow bone and Cupid’s bow. The texture is a light, fluid gel enriched with light-reflecting pearlescent pigments for application before or after foundation. RRP $25.00. Twist Up The Volume Black Balm mascara comes in ultra-black formulated to deliver length, definition and volume along with the suppleness of a balm. Ingredients are oils and waxes chosen for their richness and easy-glide benefits. RRP $23.00. On counter nationwide from January.
Avène Hybrid Hydration Avène’s Hydrance Aqua Cream-in-Gel is one of a new breed of hybrid textures that’s transforming skincare formulations. The innovative refreshing cream-in-gel combines together the effects and sensations of a hydrating toner and a moisturising cream. It provides the moisturising benefits of a cream in a melting and watery gel texture adapted to the needs of Asian consumers or people with oily skin. Paraben free, Alcohol free, Colorant free. RRP $56.95, available in March at pharmacies.
Blonde Bombshell Pack Blonde bombshell alert! De Lorenzo’s Novafusion Silver Colour Care Shampoo and Conditioner set includes full size and travel sizes, to keep blonde shades vibrant. The shampoo is for blonde or lightened hair, helping to banish brassy and yellow tones and keep colour fresh. Native flora extracts soften and smooth damaged cuticles for shiny, manageable hair. The conditioner is formulated to work in synergy with hair colour, giving brilliant shine. It controls and prevents colour fade in natural and colour enhanced hair types, while reducing unwanted brassy yellow tones in blonde hair. RRP $39.95 available from January 2017.
Organics from Vienna
Helios Health & Beauty is bringing into Australia the premium organic brand, Less is More – a range of salon quality organic haircare and styling products from Vienna. Established in 2006 by Dr. Doris Brandhuber, Chemist and Aromatherapist and Hannes Trummer, Artistic Director and Staff Trainer at a prestigious hairdressing chain, Less is More has created a palette of organic care and styling products combining functionality with simplicity and beauty, health and ethical concerns with aesthetic intentions. The innovative formulas exclusively contain natural and organic ingredients, chosen for their efficacy, purity and optimal tolerance by both skin and the environment: obtained from renewable sources, and from certified organic growers wherever possible. Shampoo and Conditioner both 200ml, $40.00 and Smoothing Balm 150ml, $40.00.
BRIGHT AND BLOOMING Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective franchise introduces Clearly Corrective Brightening and Smoothing Moisture Treatment. Actively brightening and refining skin for a smoother texture, it is clinically demonstrated to target the key factors of loss of clarity: rough texture, dehydration and discolouration. In tandem, the solution addresses fine lines and wrinkles. RRP $72.00. On counter 26th February.
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BRAND NEWS
A Prada perfume Designer Miuccia Prada created Miu Miu as a platform to explore the edges of fashion, to follow whims, to be light and thoughtful and intelligently frivolous. In Miu Miu L’Eau Bleue fragrance, perfumer Daniela Andrier evokes that yearly experience when, seemingly out of nowhere, you realize that spring has arrived. That lush scent of a fresh flower, the delicate lily of the valley, tamped down by a glistening sparkle of dew. The water on the almost-florescent green foliage dampens your eyelashes as you press your face into the bouquet. In the background there’s the most transparent twinge of honeysuckle. And then another essence fills the moment: it’s the deep, humid, essential richness of the earth just as it sheds the dormancy of winter. Earth as it comes alive with depth and spice. EdP 30ml $90.00, 50ml $130.00, 100ml $170.00, Rollerball 10ml (Sephora Exclusive) $25.00. From February 2017 from Miu Miu Boutiques, and selected Myer and David Jones stores nationally.
David Beckham builds Instinct Made of Instinct, David Beckham’s new scent for men, builds the Instinct franchise. Made of Instinct captures both his decisive personality and remarkable mental strength, says the brand. Perfumer Elise Benat from Firmenich has created an aromatic fragrance that encapsulates David Beckham’s energy and resilience: fir balsam evokes the fir tree, a symbol of endurance and perseverance. It has a zesty opening, a crisp heart and woody drydown. RRP EdT 50ml, $39.00. On-counter from 27th January 2017 exclusively at Chemist Warehouse, and available from 27th February 2017 at Priceline Pharmacy and Independent Pharmacies.
Kiehl’s Butterstick lippie care
Kiehl’s extends its lip care category with Butterstick Lip Treatment, a multibenefit lip treatment collection available in one clear and five sheer hues to hydrate and protect lips with SPF25 protection. Formulated to nourish and hydrate for youthful, moisturised lips. RRP $29.00, on counter 2nd March.
Miracle Blossom Miracle Blossom by Lancôme is a fragrance born out of the brief to perfumer Honorine Blanc, to capture an olfactory interpretation of the miracle of becoming a young woman…the gradual sense of blooming with its abundance of desires and emotions evoking the magic within a drop of fragrance. It is categorised as: Delicate Floral Fruity. The bottle is sparklingly translucent. RRP $132.00, 50ml and $185.00, 100ml. On counter 5th February.
Little Honey tanning Little Honey is a luxury self tan brand owned and created in NZ in 2015 by Kate Walsh, a determined and dedicated individual who has over 20 years cosmetic knowledge and experience. The ethos: to deliver a quality product that is super easy to apply and provides a beautiful, natural looking tan. Little Honey Hero is the Flawless Bronzing Kit, RRP $49.99. The velvet Blending Glove gives a fuss free, easy application of the Flawless Bronzing Mist 120ml. Dry to touch within 10 seconds and enriched with Aloe Vera and Pro Vitamin B5, it produces a natural, olive- looking tan.
DERMALOGICA DAILY DETOX Smooth away skin-ageing pollution with Dermalogica’s new Daily Superfoliant, a highly active powder resurfacer which leaves skin ultra-smooth, while combatting the environmental pollution triggers known to cause brown spots, fine lines and uneven skin tone. Drawing on the same innovative powder form that has made Daily Microfoliant a best-seller, Daily Superfoliant is gentle enough for daily use but powerful enough to give immediate results. Available from February 6th, 2017 at Dermalogica salons in David Jones. RRP $85.00, 57g.
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Erno Laszlo’s Bespoke Cleansing collection is a mix and match approach to addressing individual complexion concerns. There are four botanical-rich double cleansers, featuring two-step rituals, designed to be fully customisable for a personalised regimen. Erno Laszlo was founded in 1927 and at the brand’s core stood the principle of double cleansing using an oil and bar soap duo for a deeper, more effective cleanse. When applied to dry skin, the oils penetrate pores to dissolve trapped impurities and remove makeup on contact. When combined with the cleansing bar, a rich, lathery mask forms to deeply purify and stimulate, without stripping skin. Available in travel sizes priced at $43.00; full sizes retail at $58.00 for the Cleansing Bar and $89.00 for the Cleansing Oil. Also launching are concern-specific Hydrogel Masks: Firming, Soothing and Detoxifying. Designed in two separate pieces for a perfectly contoured fit, masks are worn for 15-20 minutes, once or twice per week. RRP $25.00 per single mask and $92.00 for a pack of four.
BRAND NEWS
Legendary Erno Laszlo
BOTTEGA FOR HIM With its first Pour Homme Eau de Parfum, Bottega Veneta introduces a bolder interpretation of the original EdT. The juice opens with highly concentrated woody and spicy notes of cedar leaves and rich cardamom, enhanced and strengthened at the heart by pimento and fir balsam. A sensual leather accord fused with tonka bean completes this masculine masterpiece. The continuation of the collaboration of Tomas Maier, master perfumer Daniela Andrier, and perfumer Antoine Maisondieu, Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum is an expression of strength and masculinity, enhancing the values of the signature fragrance. RRP $135.00, 50mls and $175.00, 90mls. Available from 5th March 2017 at David Jones and selected Myer stores nationally.
Tauerville
Tauer Perfumes, created by Switzerland-based Andy Tauer, is founded on pure creativity and whim. Niche fragrance aficionados love the brand ethic and perfumes. Imported into Australia by MEN’S BIZ, Tauer Perfumes range is available at the stores in Sydney and Melbourne. Newly launched is the Tauerville collection - crafted with the finest raw materials and with roots in natural perfumery, it is the richness of natural essential oils, resins and absolutes that provides each fragrance with its artistic complexity and long lasting intensity. Each 30ml is RRP $99.00.
POREfessional makeup Benefit cosmetics are solutions focussed. Poor pores get a slap in the face with this invention: Porefessional Pore Minimising Make Up. The ultra-thin, ‘weightless’ makeup evens the complexion, smooths and covers without clogging pores. While promising the longwear benefit, this light formula covers imperfections without settling into pores. It’s all about visibly smoothing and minimising pores, instantly mattifying and controlling excess surface oil for 8 hours.* (*instrumental test on 22 panellists). There are five shades. RRP $51.00, available January 2017 at Myer.
Klorane Pomegranate
Klorane launches its Pomegranate haircare range formulated to care for colour treated locks. Anti-fade Shampoo RRP $13.95; Conditioner RRP $13.95 and Leave-in Cream RRP $19.95. The formula is nourishing to hair that has been coloured and potentially damaged, while the pomegranate ingredients fixes the colour and its red berry essence is said to ‘waken the senses’. On shelf, March 2017.
Bow to the brows Rimmel has re-vamped Brow This Way - its mascara-style browdefiner and fixer - with a caring formula enhanced with Argan Oil. It helps to condition, soften and visibly improve the appearance of brows. The tapered precision mascara applicator makes it easy to create a uniform shape. The lightweight, long-lasting formula is smudge-proof and fade-proof. The shades are: Blonde, Mid Brown, Dark Brown and Clear. RRP $12.95 from March 2017 at Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W, selected pharmacies and selected Coles and Woolworths.
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BRAND NEWS
philosophy’s time
time in a bottle 100% in-control resist renew repair serum – that’s a big name covering off all its claims. philosophy’s skin transforming serum is powered by 3-dimensional technology for smoother, firmer and more-resilient skin with visible improvements of fine lines and wrinkles. It helps skin repair yesterday’s damage, renew today’s defences, and resist tomorrow’s signs of ageing. For all skin types, everyone at every age, addressing key signs of ageing: elasticity, texture and radiance, lines, wrinkles, tone, and firmness. Used morning and evening before one’s usual moisturiser, tests show an improvement within three days. RRP $99.00 from 5th February 2017 at David Jones, Mecca Maxima, Sephora and adorebeauty.com.au.
THE CLEANSER THAT GIVES BACK “Cleanser shouldn’t strip skin, it should add something back and make skin feel even better than before,” says Bobbi Brown. Introducing Soothing Cleansing Milk, a cleanser-oil-lotion hybrid inspired by Bobbi’s belief that beauty starts with healthy, glowing skin. Perfect to refresh and rehydrate skin in the morning, and ideal for dissolving makeup and grime in the evening (RRP $65.00). On counter February 2017 at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores.
Lancôme’s night worker Lancôme Absolue Precious Cells franchise introduces the simple cold cream in a luxuriously sensorial, fluid texture with core active ingredients extracted from the rose – the line’s legendary inspiration. Absolue Precious Cells Night Recovery Cream combines Rose Damascena and Rose Centifolia providing high level anti-inflammatory properties for a soothed, relieved and comfortable skin. The protective and supportive waxes, vegetal oils and shea butter are warmed in the hands to melt onto the face for superior absorption. RRP $380.00. Absolue Precious Cells Eye Cream has been reformulated using the new Rose Centifolia for more effective wrinkle reduction. RRP $205.00. Absolue Precious Cells Emulsion is a fluid, silky option for those who prefer a light touch in moisturisation. RRP $360.00. On counter 5th February.
For facing festivals
The festival season is being catered to beautywise by ulta3 with its Festival Days collection. Elyse Knowles, ulta3 ambassador says: “My favourite product is the rainbow highlighter – it is a real ‘statement’ look, it goes on beautifully and makes my cheekbones pop!” On counter from January 2017 at selected pharmacies Australia wide.
Roberto Cavalli Paradiso Assoluto
Like its forerunners in the fragrance franchise, Roberto Cavalli Paradiso Assoluto was designed by master perfumer Louise Turner (Givaudan). A floriental fragrance, the perfume opens with crisp and sexy top notes of pink peppercorn and sweet wisteria. Then Paradiso’s signature note, wild jasmine, facetted with a counterpoint of vibrantly carnal red lily. An exotic trail of vanilla, sandalwood and patchouli leaves a lasting impression. The model for the campaign is Edita Vilkeviciute, photographed by Mario Sorrenti. Roberto Cavalli Paradiso Assoluto EdP 30ml $80.00; 50ml $110.00; 75ml $140.00; Shower Gel 150ml $40.00 and Body Lotion 150ml $40.00. On counter 26th March 2017 at Myer, David Jones and independent pharmacy stores nationally.
Collagen Hydrogel Face Mask
BOBBI BROWN’S SKIN GLOW
Firm, tone and relieve stress with Napoleon Perdis’ Collagen Hydrogel Face Mask. Impregnated with an abundance of skin conditioning agents including Honey, Caviar, Salmon Egg, Lavender Flower, Peppermint and Rosemary Leaf Extract, as well as Hydrolyzed Collagen, skin becomes richly moisturised and resilient. This easy-to-use mask is disposable - made in Korea - and RRP $15.00.
Bobbi Brown Cosmetics introduces the Skin Glow Collection, an edited selection of illuminating and hydrating formulas for cheeks, lips and skin. The Cheek Glow Palette (RRP $80.00), Extra Lip Tint ($54.00) and Extra Illuminating Moisture Balm ($95.00) impart a fresh, healthy glow with just a few swipes. Mirror optional. Available at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores.
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Bourjois Volume Reveal mascara is now available in an Ultra Black version. It comes with a 3x magnifying mirror, combined with a lash-catching brush – RRP $23.00. To complement, Brow Duo Sculpt is a 2-in-1 eyebrow pencil that shapes and highlights the eyes. RRP $20.00. From March 10th at Priceline and select pharmacies.
BRAND NEWS
Bourjois Lash and brow BEAUTY
Clinique Fresh Pressed Gina Liano Fearless Following the success of Gina Liano’s signature scent, comes her second, Fearless by Gina Liano. Working exclusively in fragrance with the My Chemist/Chemist Warehouse group, Gina formulated the fragrance in conjunction with Australian fragrance manufacturer and distributor Bondi Perfume Co. See pages 50 & 51 for our interview with Gina and you’ll learn more about the woman herself. She truly is daring and fearless - not only the star of Real Housewives of Melbourne and entrepreneur, Gina has a 17-year career practicing law. Matthew Verrocchi, Managing Director of Bondi Perfume Company says: “At Bondi Perfume each collaboration is different, and creating Gina’s first fragrance we were able to produce a unique and prestige fragrance, that was a sensation with women across Australia. Producing Fearless was an equally thrilling experience, and along with Gina’s intimate involvement, we have been able to produce an iconic and exquisite scent that ultimately reflects Gina’s brave and bold style. We are certain, Fearless will take the market by storm.” Deliberately accessibly priced at $39.99, Fearless by Gina Liano will be sold exclusively at Chemist Warehouse, My Chemist and My Beauty Spot stores nationwide.
Clinique Fresh Pressed Renewing Powder Cleanser with Pure Vitamin C (RRP $57.00) and Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10% (RRP $100.00) is a super-potent system designed as a daily supplement to visibly rejuvenate skin from the outside. Part of its power is in the packaging - specialised stay-fresh packaging isolates the pure Vitamin C until activation, maintaining its freshness to deliver remarkable results in just seven days. From the first application, experience brighter, more radiant skin. With continued use, see skin that’s noticeably firmer, more even-toned, smoother, with visibly diminished lines and wrinkles and a radiant, youthful glow. First cleanse, then boost with the power of pure Vitamin C. Launch Date: 26 February 2017
JULIETTE HAS A GUN… MMMM… Juliette Has a Gun debuts a gourmand and floriental scent called MMMM…, the latest fragrance crafted by Romano Ricci, great-grandson of the great haute couturier Nina Ricci. As the synonym for gourmand, sensual or olfactory delights, MMMM… suggests pure deliciousness, crossing cultures and generations. Inspired by the onomatopoeia, MMMM… is a sensual accord of Vanilla and Neroli, an olfactive sweetness that regales the senses and provokes immediate pleasure - EdP 100ml RRP $209.00. Available at Libertine Parfumerie, selected David Jones and Myer department stores, and Sephora Sydney, as well as through other niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.
Vodka on The Rocks by Kilian
International luxury French fragrance house by Kilian, has released Vodka on The Rocks, a new fragrance that evokes a feeling of vodka cooled by ice. Reminiscent of an exclusive tavern in the corner of Moscow, where breathless intoxication meets cool refreshment, Kilian Hennessy and perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur have created a testament to one of the world’s oldest cocktails. Globally acclaimed for her unique and innovative methods in fragrance through short formulas with strong character, Lancesseur was commissioned by Mr Hennessy to create an enticing gender neutral scent for those who appreciate an exquisite minimalistic approach in spirits, fragrance and life. Bursts of cool cardamom and coriander create a sudden drop in body temperature to recreate the icy sensation from a ‘vodka on the rocks,’ as crisp rhubarb paired with soft feather-light florals, wafts off the glass like a gentle twist of citrus. A delicate yet forceful base of woods and mosses bring an iodized, yet comfortable and lightly leathery effect. EdP 50ml, RRP $494.00; EdP 250ml Carafe, RRP $1,482.00. Available at Harrolds womenswear department store in Sydney and at Libertine Parfumerie.
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BRAND NEWS
PIGMENT CUSTOMISATION BIY Blend It Yourself Pigment Drops are Clinique’s clever contribution to the customisation trend. Transform any moisturiser into a BB, CC, or fuller coverage foundation by simply adjusting the number of drops mixed in. The drops are highly concentrated pure pigments suspended in a super-lightweight, dual phase formula. Once the two phases are combined by shaking thoroughly, the formula turns into a thin fluid formulation that can be precisely measured in drops, and mixed with a moisturiser to create customisable coverage with skincare benefits. One drop of pure pigment creates sheer coverage. Two or three, a fuller, more flawless coverage (RRP $55.00). On counter 29th January 2017 at Clinique counters.
Bobbi does a redder
M·A·C SHADESCENTS Shadescents are six new perfumes inspired by M·A· C’s iconic lipstick shades. Lady Danger thrills with notes of wild cherry (woody floriental) and Ruby Woo goes bold with whiffs of deep red leather (woody floral). Notes of saffron, incense smoke, and cordovan leather surprise and intoxicate in My Heroine (woody leather). Candy Yum-Yum conjures tropical fruit and cotton candy (fruity floral gourmand) and Velvet Teddy calls forth wild honey and creamy musk (wild honey). Crème d’Nude evokes the vibrant sexiness of naked skin (amber musk). RRP $60.00. Available from the 6th February 2017 at M·A· C.
Cleansing with Kiehl’s
Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Botanical Cleansing Oil eliminates the need for double cleansing. This lightweight yet deep cleanser removes dirt while maintaining the skin barrier without leaving an oily residue. Cleaning away skin impurities and stubborn makeup, there’s no need for that second cleanse. Key ingredients are: squalene, evening primrose oil and lavender essential oil. RRP $48.00. On counter 26th February.
Bobbi’s philosophy on the red lip is simple: there are no rules. Bold, bright, classic or modern, there is a perfect red for everyone. Introducing the Red Hot Collection, a modern mix of luxe red lip colours complemented by sultry nude shadows and a classic pink blush – a collection created to be worn together or separately for a range of flirty looks. Luxe Lip Color dramatically boosts moisture levels and intensely rejuvenates lips, while the red hot shades deliver just the right bolt of colour to a sultry nude eye and cheek (RRP $52.00). Sultry Nude Eye & Cheek Palette complements (RRP $125.00). On counter 15th January 2017 at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores.
Olay Eyes ageing Research by global skincare brand Olay has revealed the eyes age earlier and faster than the rest of the face. Driven by the additional finding that different eye ageing issues require tailored solutions, Olay scientists have developed formulas with unique technology designed to address the most commonly-cited eye concerns; dark circles, wrinkles and puffiness. The result is Olay Eyes, a luxury-inspired eye care collection for noticeable results at an accessible price, so women can be confident their eyes show their strength, not their age. The Olay Ultimate Eye Cream, Olay Pro-Retinol Eye Treatment and Olay Illuminating Eye Cream will be available nationwide from February 2017 for RRP $48.99 each.
TOTAL BAE TONES Total Bae Tone It contour and highlight collection is an addition to Napoleon Perdis’ daughter, Lianna’s Total Bae range. There are four face and body reflective contouring powders launching in February. They are made in Italy and look amazing as an eyeshadow too, says the company. Sculpt, shade and highlight the face and body with Tone It. The deep, warm depth of colours, fused with a velvety-smooth feel, soft to the touch texture and ‘angelic’ pigments reflect and absorb light to add definition where it’s needed the most. Improve the appearance of skin’s texture and enhance and radiate for luxe looking skin. RRP $39.00. See Lianna as she appears in the Tone It ad material.
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Celebrating more than 250 years of innovation and expertise, illustrious French perfume house Creed’s Les Royales Exclusives collection has arrived in Australia through Agence de Parfum. Created to pay homage to the rich heritage and prestigious clients of the house, Les Royales Exclusives embraces beauty and originality, a blend of the noblest essences and rarest infusion techniques, fashioned by sixth generation master perfumer Olivier Creed. Each of the five scents represents a fusion of the creator’s vast aromatic landscape. Taking the mind on a boundless journey, where beauty and reality looms, the scents explore the imagination: a ballet by Diaghilev at Monaco in 1912, a painting by de Chirico, an excursion on a cloud, an afternoon dream in a garden, a stroll through an ancient Persian building site, ora glimpse of the last duel in France in the 1960s. RRP $679.00, 75ml. Available at Libertine Parfumerie, selected David Jones and Harrolds department stores, as well as through other niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.
BRAND NEWS
Creed - Les Royales Exclusives Collection
NATURALLY EFFECTIVE Kiehl’s scientists address the demand from women wanting natural skincare with clinically proven results with Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream. The 99.6% naturally-derived formula uses key actives: New Zealand Manuka Honey and Korean Red Ginseng Roots to resist hydration loss while also helping in recovery from existing skin damage. RRP $87.00. Available January 17th.
MULTI-DEFENCE BROAD SPECTRUM SPF50+ SUNSCREEN
So so Sisley
Sisley Phyto-Blush Twist is a creamto-powder formula that strokes onto the complexion for an instant boost of radiance. Shea oil, camellia and vitamin E acetate combine to care for the skin in a creamy texture that melts onto the skin, transforming to a powder with a soft focus effect. There are four shades in maxi zebra-striped twist-up. RRP $80.00. Sisley makeup brushes have been designed to give professional results in application for eight different jobs. From powder, foundation, eyeshadow to eyeliner. Beautifully made in collaboration with Raphaël, French master brush maker, with synthetic fibres and black lacquered wooden handles. Seen here Kabuki Brush RRP $80.00.
Napoleon Perdis provides UVA and UVB skin protection with MultiDefence Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen. The oil-free, non-sticky formula includes skin-conditioning ingredients such as antioxidant Vitamin E and Sodium PCA, to provide continued hydration, giving skin a soft and silky feel. Natural and key ingredient Maritime Pine Extract is known to increase the fusion of Hyaluronic Acid in the skin, helping to provide greater elasticity and water retention, while Glycerin maintains the skin’s water balance to combat dry skin. PRO TIP: Don’t forget your neck and décolletage. RRP $29.00.
Clinique Chubby Crayola collab In Clinique’s colourful collaboration Chubby Stick and Crayola come together for the first time with a limited edition collection. With exclusive packaging that looks like the iconic Crayola crayon, Clinique is bringing to life a sense of nostalgia, fun and play for lips this season. Working closely with Crayola, Clinique has colour matched and named these exclusive shades using some of Crayola’s most remembered names like Mauvelous, Razzmatazz, Mango Tango and Tickle Me Pink. On Clinique counters nationwide from 5th March 2017. Prices range from Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm (RRP $36.00) to eight piece Crayon Box set (RRP $144.00).
ART STICK LIQUID LIP “As a freelance artist, I used to shop at art stores. I’d look at the coloured pencils and tubes of paints and dreamed of art-store inspired makeup,” says Bobbi Brown. Her iconic Art Sticks now come as Art Stick Liquid Lip. Creamy and super-pigmented with a semi-matte finish, this squeezable colour stick offers a bold, full coverage look with a luxurious, ultra-lightweight feel. The moisturising formula conditions lips for comfortable, long-lasting wear. Available in 16 nude, bright and bold shades (RRP $46.00). On counter March 2017 at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores.
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WHY BIO-OIL USERS DO IT TWICE A DAY
“
When applying topical oils, it’s important to massage the skin in a circular motion. This will not only help the product to absorb better, but will also help to stimulate the underlying skin circulation
“ Bio-Oil continues to turn heads with its powers and performance yet sometimes, just sometimes, customers don’t get the results they were expecting. Why? Because they weren’t using it in the recommended way. That’s where YOU come in – Pharmacy Beauty Assistants listen up – here’s how to help your customers get the best benefits from their Bio-Oil. Dr Charlotte Middleton - Integrative Medical Practitioner and Amanda Garling - Bio-Oil Representative recently presented to beauty media, talking about the skin issues Bio-Oil targets: scars, stretch marks, uneven skin tone. And, for best results? Use less, more often. “When applying topical oils, it’s important to massage the skin in a circular motion. This will not only help the product to absorb better, but will also help to stimulate the underlying skin circulation,” says Dr Charlotte.
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B IO-R UL E NO 1 .
B I O-R UL E NO.3
COMPLIANCE TO USING THE OIL TWICE A DAY
APPLY USING SMALL CIRCULAR MOTIONS TO THOROUGHLY COVER THE SCAR/BLEMISH
By Amanda Garling It is recommended that BioOil be applied twice daily, for a minimum of three months for best results to be seen.
B IO -R UL E NO 2 . USE A SMALL AMOUNT. NEVER SLATHER IT ON By Amanda Garling. “The right application is to remember less is more with the product. You don’t want to be pouring lots on. Rule of thumb: to use less is much better, top it up twice a day, use it morning and night. And if you can get to your scar or stretchmark without having to strip off too much during the day, by all means use it again.” 1: Gorgi Coghlan – media presenter chats with Dr. Charlotte Middleton (centre) and Amanda Garling about Bio-Oil at a recent beauty media briefing 2: The Bio-Oil family (above)
By Amanda Garling “If you’re using it for scar or stretch mark treatment, apply using a circular motion and massage in until it disappears. Massage the skin all the way down the affected area and all the way back up. You want to break down the scar tissue and get the blood flowing into the area to see really great results.”
1
Bio-Oil® is Australia’s No.1 selling scar and stretch mark product.
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Aztec Segment and item list as defined by Aspen Pharmacare, based on the AU Grocery & Pharmacy Scan Combined Data within the Hand & Body Skin Care Database. This is based on 12 months of AU Grocery & Pharmacy Scan Combined Data, AU Grocery & AU Pharmacy Data to 8th May 2016
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