YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY RIGHT NOW
ISSUE 52 APRIL 2017
Trend
Why more brands are opening standalone boutiques
Celebrity Talk
DELTA GOODREM, LIANNA PERDIS AND A PEEK INTO HOLLYWOOD
Hot Button Issue
Unlocking the key to brand loyalty
Interview
REVLON ON THE ACQUISITION OF ARDEN – THE FUTURE ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |1
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THE NEW FR AGRANCE
B Y D E LT A G O O D R E M E X C L U S I V E LY AVA I L A B L E AT
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |3
EDITOR’S LETTER Photo: Esteban La Tessa
T
his morning I was prepping myself mentally to pen this piece – my Editor’s letter – and thinking about the matters of influence and change. Toothbrush at the ready I found my toothpaste tube was empty. To hand was the new pack I’d picked up at the APP pharmacy expo esprit exhibited at (see page 42 for more on that). I squirted it onto my brush. It was black. I love trying new things – I’m a beauty editor; all my life I’ve tried new products. But black toothpaste on my newly whitened peggies? In I went and powered round gums an’ all. My first foray into My Magic Mud Activated Charcoal fluoride-free, no this, no that, whitening toothpaste…peppermint flavour…was, well, just like any other teeth brushing session…just better for me. Will I tell my friends? I have a young friend, dear to my heart who has chosen to be vegan. She’s recently returned from India, has experienced physical and mental benefits from following recommended ancient remedies, along Ayurvedic principles. Back in her Western World home she’s seeking out the food, yoga and meditation that fits with her changed self. It makes her happy to pursue and dig deeper into this Indian-influenced world. Returning to her friendship group and peers she’s finding some defensiveness from them justifying their choices – unprovoked by her – but just by her ordering a vegan dish, they start quizzing her on the source of the ‘ins’ of her protein and the ‘outs’ of her bowels. Would you ask your friends how their body will react on their ordering of a steak and chips? I was passing an article for this magazine – Evaluating the influence of Influencers, 4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Black toothpaste page 34 – under the valued, critical eye of Elisabeth King, esprit’s Associate Editor, Business Features. The subject is clear by the title. I loved a sentence she added: “Criticism and reality checks are always part of the evolution of a new way of working”. When something is not ‘normal’ or ‘mainstream’, it can be uncomfortable for some people to work out where they stand on it. Their conditioned thinking is being given something to do. A rethink sends some people running for the couch, as their comfort zone is just the perfect fit for them. Others may delve in and do their research and emerge wanting to try the new product or modify their choices of food they eat. Change is a tricky path to navigate. I am enthusiastic about life and so when I find something new to me that I take on board – like black toothpaste, or like my friend’s veganism – I love talking about it…often… but it doesn’t mean I am in any way intending to influence my listener. These are my natural thoughts and natural passions – discovering them and experiencing them, for what I believe to be ‘the greater good of me’ is just what keeps me happy and healthy. Some concepts may be blurry as I learn more about them, and talking it through can help clarify. The world is getting increasingly accessible. Countries, lifestyles, groups, tribes, communities are at our fingertips, literally. Being conscious about your way of living is your choice and if you’re excited about it, which is the point really, you’re probably going to tell your friends. Remember this is about you, not them. Their response is about them, not you. Have a big heart and inner smile for your choices; you’ll need it when your friends
tell you in an uncomfortable tone: “Oh, you’ve changed”. Flood yourself with self-love and hear your inner voice confirm: “Do you think I live my life to stay the same”. And that’s rhetorical, not a question. Bringing this to the shopfloor. Introducing customers to your new products, your new services. It’s not so much about influencing with its connotations of persuasion. It’s about knowing your products through using them yourself and how you can translate your products’ offering in a way that’s true to you. Your personal delivery will engage the customer to try. And when she does, keep the conversation going. Genuinely. She’s hopping on board to try because of the way you interacted with her – find out how she went with the product, discuss any concerns and invite her back in to show you. It’s not all about the sale but about your community. Keep your client cards up to date. As Rachael Ostrom, Executive Director, Aveda Global Consumer Engagement says in our Hot Button Issue feature (pages 58-61) “We know guests with a birthday on file card spend 50% more annually than guests who do not have a birthday on file”. We encourage you to share your changes with us. Just email me! Happy birthday, for whenever that might be! Namaste,
I SHAKE IT UP
TO KEEP IT FRESH NEW VOLUME SHAKE MASCARA with breakthrough Shake-it-Fresh technology for beautiful clump-free volume that stays fresh from first to last use. Never dries out *. On counter June ‘17 *Based on average US consumer perception test, 150 women, aged 18-35.
YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY RIGHT NOW
ISSUE 52 APRIL 2017
ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA
ISSUE
52 APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Trend
52 Contents
Snapshot
Why more brands are opening standalone boutiques
Celebrity Talk KNOW YOUR OWN BUSINESS
DELTA GOODREM, LIANNA PERDIS AND A PEEK INTO HOLLYWOOD
INTERVIEW – REVLON | 10 Tracey Raso discusses the company’s multimillion dollar buyout of Elizabeth Arden
Hot
Why more brands are opening standalone boutiques
Button Issue
Unlocking the key to brand loyalty
INDUSTRY NEWS | 16
Interview
Issues that affect the retail beauty business
REVLON ON THE ACQUISITION OF ARDEN – THE FUTURE
Nicci Herrera finds the Napoleon bosses’ daughter to be whip-smart, savvy and lovely
HOT BUTTON ISSUE – LOYALTY | 58
LANCÔME LOOKS FORWARD | 24
Front Cover Details New Revlon Ultra HD Gel Lip Color builds on the success of Ultra HD Matte in 2016. With high-definition, pigment-packed, ultra-smooth colour and intense hydration, it comes in 15 shades delivering silky soft results. The key to lasting, intense, silky lip-wear is in the formula: vibrant colour pigments are suspended in a gel base that drenches lips in high definition, lightweight colour. The advanced formula with hyaluronic acid delivers a boost of hydration. The slim line packaging makes precise application easy. RRP: $24.95 – available now from department stores, discount department stores and pharmacies nationwide.
esprit Magazine Australia Managing Director Andrea Ferrari M: 0410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au General Manager Nicci Herrera M: 0426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Digital and Social Media Manager Yasmin Border E: info@esprit-magazine.com.au Mailing address: 25 Cove Street, Birchgrove NSW 2041, Australia Design: The Defectors T: 02 9993 0450 E: esprit@thedefectors.com.au SUBSCRIPTION RATES $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit are not necessarily those of the publishers.
5 MINUTES WITH… LIANNA PERDIS | 56
TREND | 12
Unlocking the key to brand loyalty
M.A.C MAKEUP ARTISTS | 64
Lancôme celebrates 20 years of Teint Idole -its global best-selling foundation
James Kaliardos collaboration interview and M.A.C Spring/Summer Trends
MARKETING – INDIE BRANDS | 32
INTERVIEW WITH GUIVE BALOOCH – L’ORÉAL’S ARCHITECT OF TECH BEAUTY SOLUTIONS | 68
The New Indies – Catalysts for Growth
WHAT DEFINES AN INFLUENCER? | 34
Guive’s role is to predict and produce high tech solutions in beauty
How do you measure the influence of influencers?
BUSINESS | 70
INTERVIEW – MYER REVITALISES ITS BEAUTY OFFER | 36
It’s the smart way!
BEAUTY & THE BEST | 86
Gillian Ridley Whittle, Group General Manager Cosmetics & Lingerie for Myer
Beauty Advisors – how they stop traffic
AUSTRALIAN PHARMACY PROFESSIONAL CONFERENCE AND TRADE EXHIBITION | 42
Danette Elliott, Regional Manager NSW/SA for L’Occitane
esprit Magazine Australia was there – here’s our nuggets from the expo floor
What’s going on counter
OUT & ABOUT | 43 The grass doesn’t grow under the beauty industry’s feet!
Andrea Ferrari Pty Ltd ACN 602410784 Issue 52: ISSN 1449-8018 Printed by Pegasus Print Group Building B, 1A Bessemer Street, Blacktown, NSW 2148 For printing enquiries contact: Saurabh Arora Corporate Account Manager, Pegasus Print Group P: 0433 839 043 E: sarora@pegasusprintgroup.com.au
MY JOURNEY | 89
BRAND NEWS | 90 PRICELINE BEAUTY PRESCRIPTION LIVE | 96 Priceline’s seasonal showing for the media of 70+ brand partners’ latest launches
Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips. Go to: espritmagazineaustralia.com.au
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR BEAUTY INDUSTRY INSIGHTS EspritMagazineAustralia @EspritMagazine
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PROUD PARTNER OF ESPRIT AUSTRALIA N APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |7O M U D E BYN AT U R E .C
Associate Editor
Business Features
ELISABETH KING
Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to leading newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book - Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. She is the grooming editor of Men’s Style and won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.
MARY ZAVAGLIA
AMANDA STEVENS
The name Mary Zavaglia is recognised by women all over Australia as one woman they can trust to make them look and feel good. An authority in all facets of beauty reporting, commentary and direction, Mary is both an award winning beauty journalist and hair stylist. During her career she has interviewed some of the most elegant stars including Australia’s Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts, Miranda Kerr and Kylie Minogue as well as Hollywood stars such as Julia Roberts, Courtney Cox, Andie MacDowell and pop princess Fergie. Mary has built up a reputation as the beauty expert who will try anything once for the good of her readers. She investigates, questions, trials, travels and then reveals all.
Amanda Stevens is a global thought leader on retail marketing, customer advocacy and the future of consumers. She’s a renowned speaker, having delivered presentations to over 500,000 people in 14 countries. Amanda is also a best-selling author of six books on sales and marketing. She’s the host of Retail Renegades, a 13-part online TV show on Business Blueprint TV.
AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.
MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer in Perth, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘Art’ of Make-up Artistry and in 2001 he landed his first role in retail cosmetics as an event make-up artist. Michael’s career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney in 2006 where he became a National Makeup Artist and Makeup Trainer for AUS/NZ. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him wide exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene, that when he went freelance in 2012, his journey was only at the beginning… Michael is now not only a Celebrity Makeup Artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as beauty voice at rescu.com.au.
BRIGITTE BENGE ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.
Creating, building and sustaining profitable businesses is Brigitte’s focus and expertise. Specialising in the beauty industry is where her passion lies. Rarely are the two combined, she says. With a strong belief that businesses should be built from the inside out, Brigitte has changed the financial futures of hundreds of beauty businesses in Australia and New Zealand over the last decade. +61 (3) 9523 9549, visit www.creamsolutions.co.
KATE MORRIS
Expert Contributers 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
adorebeauty.com.au Beauty junkie and e-commerce veteran Kate Morris, founder and CEO of adorebeauty. com.au, had her inspiration to start an online beauty store in 1999 at the age of 21. Today adorebeauty.com.au attracts more than 2 million visitors per year and has over 4000 products. Kate was awarded the Telstra Business Women’s Award for Innovation (VIC) in 2014, and was also Telstra’s Young Businesswoman of the Year (VIC) in 2010.
Calling Beauty Assistants WANT TO WRITE FOR ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA? You’re our readers but why not write for us too. Send in a few lines on your suggestions. We want to hear about your life on the shop floor – events, challenges, your successes – whether it’s a sparkly department store or a busy community pharmacy – so long as its beauty focussed. Contact Andrea andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
INSPIRING by Elisabeth King
Realigned Revlon gears up for local and global growth Revlon is on a mission to drive global growth and win over new customers. One of the most talked-about acquisitions in the cosmetic industry last year was the company’s multi-million dollar buyout of Elizabeth Arden. A joining of forces that has forged a US$3 billion business ready to compete against the biggest beauty multinationals.
10|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
love Brand-Centric Restructure/Robust Growth for 2017
New Diversified Portfolio The deal was finalised in September, 2016 says Tracey Raso, Regional Managing Director for Revlon ANZ, and rounds out Revlon’s makeup-dominated portfolio with Arden’s fragrances and skincare. “This new diversified portfolio is sold in 150 countries across the major distribution channels - mass, salon, prestige and e-commerce. We now have some of the world’s most iconic and desired brands and offerings across all of the most significant beauty categories - colour cosmetics, skin care, hair care, hair colour and fragrance. A powerhouse stable including Revlon, Elizabeth Arden, Revlon ColorSilk, Revlon Professional, American Crew, Almay, Cutex, Elizabeth Taylor, Christina Aguilera, Juicy Couture, Britney Spears and John Varvatos”. The Arden acquisition was only the latest in a series of buyouts designed to build one of the world’s leading global beauty players. The company bought the Colomer Group for US$660 million in 2013, an investment which accessed the professional beauty market and the CND nail and American Crew men’s haircare brands. Two years later, Revlon bought CBBeauty, the UK-based distributor and maker of One Direction fragrances. The company’s already considerable strength in the nail category was extended in mid-2016 by the acquisition of Cutex from Coty.
The payoff is already clear. Revlon released its full year results for 2016 in early March and the company delivered growth across all segments. Net sales for the combined Revlon consumer and professional divisions were US$2.3 billion - a 21.9 per cent increase on 2015. Elizabeth Arden enjoyed net sales of US$441 million, a spike of 1.8 per cent over 2015. According to Fabian Garcia, President and CEO of Revlon: “I am encouraged by the progress we have made since the acquisition of Elizabeth Arden and enthusiastic about the opportunities presented by our newly combined company’s enhanced portfolio of brands, size, scale, profitability and international growth momentum”. We are poised for robust growth in 2017, says Raso. “The company recently announced a new global brand-centric structure, built around four global brand teams - Revlon, Elizabeth Arden, Fragrances and Portfolio brands - designed to optimise and focus on building brand equity and delighting beauty consumers”. From a corporate point of view, the new model aligns organisation resources and enables us to leverage the strength of our iconic brands, so we can quickly adapt to changing consumer buying and shopping behaviour, says Raso. “For the consumer, this means that we will be able to deliver a consistent, seamless and exceptional brand experience wherever and however our consumers shop for beauty”.
The Love Project & Gwen Stefani
Australia & New Zealand Part of Newly Created Pacific Zone Revlon has also inaugurated a new, customer-facing regional structure that will also boost worldwide sales and brand presence in five main geographical markets: North America; Europe, Middle East and Africa; Asia; Latin America; and the Pacific, including Australia and New Zealand. In her new role of Regional Managing Director Revlon ANZ, Raso is responsible for the Revlon and Elizabeth Arden businesses across both countries. “In this region, we will be operating as a combined organisation with two iconic beauty brands and a clear growth agenda for 2017 and beyond”, she notes. Revlon Australia is performing very well in an exceptionally competitive beauty space, says Raso. “We hold a very strong market share position across numerous channels. Revlon Ultra HD Matte Lipstick was the number one cosmetics launch in the category in 2016, and Revlon achieved number one status for editorial value and mentions through our PR strategy. We also launched a locally-produced contour kit. The first time Revlon has developed, produced and designed a product in Australia for the ANZ market”. International analysts predict that if Revlon’s new strategy continues to pay off, the company’s global share of the colour cosmetic market will increase to 5.5 per cent. “The outlook is that the retailer and competitive dynamic will increase in intensity, so our marketing strategies and innovation need to continually adapt to our consumer as she changes the way she shops for beauty”, says Raso. “We will continue to deliver on-trend innovation such as the new Revlon Ultra HD Gel Lip Color to build on the success of Ultra HD Matte in 2016. With high-definition, ultra-smooth colour and intense hydration, it’s guaranteed to be a major success from its on-counter date in March”.
THIS MEANS THAT WE WILL BE ABLE TO DELIVER A CONSISTENT, SEAMLESS AND EXCEPTIONAL BRAND EXPERIENCE
In January Revlon signed singer and fashion icon Gwen Stefani as its newest global ambassador. The Grammy-winning artist and entrepreneur joins other celebs such as Ciara, Alejandra Espinoza as a brand ‘face’. With over 15 million social media fans and followers, Stefani’s passion for makeup throughout her career makes her a natural fit to promote Revlon’s Choose Love message. Revlon recently launched The Love Project, a new social activation campaign with one goal in mind - to address the need for love in the world, and to amplify and inspire love. The Love Project is an extension of Revlon’s Choose Love campaign, and reflects the brand’s belief in the power of love and the diversity of beauty”, says Raso. “The campaign previews with a 30-second video, featuring Million Reasons by Lady Gaga, posted exclusively on the singer’s social channels. This is followed by an inspiring video starring Lady Gaga, Pharrell Williams and Ellen DeGeneres, that aired during the recent Academy Awards in February”. Other well-publicised recent developments include the appointment of Linda Wells, the much-admired founding editor of Allure magazine, America’s beauty bible, as Revlon’s Chief Creative Officer. Wells will be responsible for curating the look and feel of Revlon’s portfolio of brands across all consumer touchpoints from advertising to point-of-sale. Her experience on both sides of the beauty business will help to boost strategic growth through her collaborations with the company’s marketing, product development and R&D teams. Tracey Raso is also excited to be working with Elizabeth Arden, one of the most recognised beauty brands in the world for over 100 years. There’s plenty of excitement for consumers and retailers from March and April, says Raso. “We’re launching Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Restoring Serum, a new formula with three times the anti-ageing power. In makeup, there’s the Eyes Wide Open Collection, featuring the Little Black Compact of eyeshadows, Lasting Impression Mascara and Statement Brow Gel Shaper. Elizabeth Arden has launched some of the most iconic perfumes ever and our new fragrance is White Tea. Relaxing, feminine and exquisite”.
Tracey Raso, Regional Managing Director for Revlon ANZ
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |11
retail reboot
by Elisabeth King
Why more brands are opening standalone boutiques
Speciality beauty retailers and single brand beauty boutiques now account for a double digit slice of global cosmetic and beauty dollars. According to Nicholas Micallef, senior beauty and personal care analyst, Euromonitor International, the increasing number of brands opening their own retail stores is one of the strongest trends in beauty retailing in 2017 and for the foreseeable future.
12|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Opening standalone stores is a well-worn path in the cosmetics industry that receives cyclical boosts of energy. The tactic doesn’t always work, though. In 2009, the CVS drugstore chain in the US announced the launch of separate-entry upscale beauty speciality stores called Beauty 360. Billed as a new concept that would redefine the beauty shopping experience by providing customers with access to prestige and lifestyle brands as well as an unparalleled level of service, the initial plan was to open 50 stores. Because of fierce competition from Sephora and Ulta, CVS had only debuted 25 before the chain shuttered the business three years later.
Cult Following // Kline & Co analyst, Ewa Grigar, warns that standalone beauty boutiques are not a ticket to immediate success. “Companies that cannot maintain a high level of innovation and keep up with the essential amounts of interactivity and overall exciting experience are doomed to lower engagement and sales”, she says. She should know. Grigar recently guided the researcher’s new report - Boutique Beauty Retailers: Channel Analysis and Opportunities. Boutique beauty stores are set to continue a high growth trajectory is the major takeaway. Vertically-integrated speciality stores offering immersive single brand experiences with unique concepts, a fun environment and knowledgeable staff are strongly attracting Millennials and Gen Zers. “It’s almost like a cult”, says Kelly Alexandre, a key analyst for the report. “The followership is often buying into the exciting concepts of these stores more than the products themselves. The success of such stores depends on whether brands can keep up with the pace of younger consumers’ digital needs”.
Omnichannel Reach/Brand Control // A more commercial reason why many brands are opening standalone stores is to reduce their dependence on department stores, notes Euromonitor International. Brands that have become dependent on Sephora, the world’s largest speciality beauty retailer, also need to branch out. Over 50 per cent of Sephora’s shelf space is taken up by its private label brand and brands owned by its parent company LVMH, leaving hundreds of brands to battle it out for the other half. E-commerce is one of the fastest-growing channels in beauty sales, but it has limitations. Buyers can’t access personal guidance or try on products, potentially reducing impulse buying. All the questionnaires in the world can’t make up for strong relationships with customers developed in bricks-and-mortar stores. Many of the same reasons why freestanding stores, single brand boutiques and speciality chains like Sephora and Ulta successfully built on the groundwork laid by The Body Shop and Bath & Body Works in the late 90s, are also behind the latest boom. The most obvious pluses are total control over image, merchandising, service, increased visibility and brand awareness. Standalone stores also serve as a form of advertising for brands that don’t advertise or have small budgets. Inglot, the professional makeup brand from Poland that now has hundreds of concept stores worldwide, including Australia, is a classic case in point. Another major benefit is that beauty boutiques reach out to a different type of customer than those who shop at department stores. A divide which has been around for about 20 years, but is more crucial today because of the different expectations of younger consumers. Freestanding stores are also invaluable to brands for road-testing new concepts, merchandise and products.
TREND
As CVS discovered with its ill-fated Beauty 360 concept, standalone beauty boutiques aren’t for every beauty player. A brand needs a strong concept like L’Occitane, the French prestige brand, which chose to set up its own network because in the early days it was too small to access prime retail space in international department stores. Finding the right location with the right target demographic isn’t that easy, either. Standalone stores can take up to two years to make a profit. That’s not an issue for brands owned by large multinationals such as Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, but it can make or break smaller brands without the financial clout of a wealthy parent company.
New Wave Players // The current strength of the beauty boutique segment is epitomised by NYX Cosmetics. When L’Oréal bought the brand in 2014, it was an online only company. Within a year, NYX opened 20 standalone stores, driving a sales increase of 400 per cent in 2016. “NYX is a fashion brand, sold in an entertaining retail environment equipped with digital screens and item scanners for product-engaging activities”, says Ewa Grigar. “This is very important for young consumers who are surrounded and very much influenced by the world of selfies and instant fame. NYX provides a space for those individuals where they can feel good about themselves. At the same time, affordable prices make the products even more attractive to a wider range of consumers. Feel good/look good is today’s Yin and Yang of the world of beauty”. NYX also leads a growing trend for inexpensive beauty brands to set up shop. The Italian brand Kiko Milano and the US brand e.l.f are other value brands that have become hugely successful through launching standalone stores and boutiques. According to John Bailey, President and CFO of e.l.f – “Each new opening helps us fulfill our mission to make luxurious beauty accessible for all women to play beautifully”. Estée Lauder has a strong track record in opening standalone stores for key brands in its stable, notably Origins, Jo Malone and M.A.C. But last November, the multinational debuted its first store for its core brand aimed at Millennials - the Estée Edit - in London’s Carnaby Street. Across the English Channel, the first L’Oréal Paris branded store opened its doors in the French capital in September. A tourist attraction in its own right, the glamorous space showcases the full collection of products and digital expertise of the French giant’s hero brand. Chanel, Dior and Burberry are just three of the illustrious prestige names who have debuted high-tech beauty boutiques around the world. In late December, L’Occitane premiered the first of its new experiential boutiques in the Flatiron district in New York. The multi-sensory boutique is the first of such flagship stores and features the L’Occitane Smart Beauty Fitting Room, which allows customers to browse products from “a physical and sensorial product shopping experience”. Many South Korean brands focus mainly on distribution through standalone beauty boutiques, notes Kline & Co, including The Face Shop, Innisfree and Skin Food. AmorePacific, the Southeast Asian country’s biggest beauty player, has opened 70 Aritaum stores in the US and Canada to introduce North Americans to its “champion” brands, including Laneige and Sulwhasoo. More boutique are in the pipeline to take advantage of global interest in K-beauty. Even chains that already have huge market penetration such as Sephora, Bath & Body Works, Lush and Ulta, the number one specialist beauty retailer in the US, are rapidly expanding their networks at breakneck speed. Strategic growth strategies springboarded by new brand acquisitions, increased awareness, loyalty programs and a personal connection that buying online can’t deliver.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |13
LIANNA PERDIS
BUST THROUGH IMPERFECTIONS
#FOUNDATIONNATION
11 FOUNDATIONS, OVER 50 SHADES PROUDLY AUSTRALIAN MADE AND OWNED FAMILY BUSINESS. DESIGNED FOR AUSTRALIA.
INDUSTRY NEWS
in-cosmetics Global
Sustainability Corner
Water, waste and emissions management, environmental responsibility and sustainable forest management have dominated the headlines in recent times, generating concern for consumers and governments across the globe. As part of an industry-wide effort, beauty brands and their suppliers are now investing heavily to develop more sustainable formulations and manufacturing processes. A selection of environmental and social initiatives will be on display in the Sustainability Corner at in-cosmetics Global 2017, aiming to highlight how the beauty industry is moving beyond compliance and paving the way towards a fundamentally more sustainable business model. Sponsored by Solvay, the new feature will house more than 15 pods, each displaying a sustainable product or project that aims to make a real difference to the environment or society. Companies – including BASF, Clariant, DSM Nutritional Products, Earthoil Plantations and Kolb – will highlight their efforts and give R&D visitors the chance to learn how to use sustainability to drive innovation within their own companies. Located on the show floor, the interactive space – made from renewable materials – will educate and inform visitors while providing a forum to debate key aspects of sustainability. It will also illustrate what the cosmetics sector is doing to support the achievement of the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The space will also house an open theatre where presentations by leading brands and selected suppliers – on relevant topics within personal care sustainability – will take place throughout the show. R&D professionals will have the chance to learn from industry leaders and participate in debates to advance their own initiatives. in-cosmetics Global will take place at ExCeL London from 4-6 April 2017. For more information, please visit www.in-cosmetics.com.
Katy Perry
SNIPPETS Masspirational beauty Founder of funky UK brands Beauty Pie, Bliss Bar, Soap & Glory and Fitflop, Marcia Kilgore has created a new brand SOAPER DUPER, and a new word to describe the category: masspirational. The company’s facebook page informs us: “Because we make the best natural bath & body products of the 21st century (so far as we know, anyway). We formulate with loads of real ingredients, none of the usual suspects - no plastic microbeads, no parabens, no phthalates and we sell them in big, recyclable plastic packages at enviably competitive prices. Think perfectly luxurious, but gloriously guilt-free. (And we don’t mean to boast, but our hand cream is hard to beat.) We also support WATER AID and CLEAN THE WORLD to bring soap and water to communities who need it, because we believe that soap can change everything.” Mission: “We want to show that it’s possible to offer amazing, naturally derived masspirational products, with formulas and packaging that respect the environment.” Men’s Biz launch Chrome Travel Brush One Thousand and Ninety Two chrome Travel Brush joins the elite grooming collection, a deluxe and exclusive range of shaving and grooming hardware crafted for the discerning modern gentleman. Housing a dense knot of synthetic silvertip hair inside a polished chrome casing, the travel brush complements the brand’s existing collection, offering a quality shaving experience while on the road. Available online and instore exclusively at MEN’S BIZ. RRP $79.00.
CREATES WITH COVERGIRL
COVERGIRL ambassador, Katy Perry’s artistic vision combined with COVERGIRL’s make-up expertise results in a colour collection with beauty benefits. Katy Perry says: “I collaborated with COVERGIRL to create my own make-up collection, The Katy Kat Collection. I was involved in every part of the process – from packaging to the colour palette to the shade names...even the campaign creative. Everything is very personal to me. I made the Katy Kat Collection for my fans and any girl who is willing to experiment with colour. I am so proud of the collection.”Available nationwide from 1st April at Priceline, Woolworths, Big W,Coles, Target, Kmart and selected pharmacies. Find out more and follow COVERGIRL on Instagram @COVERGIRLAU.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
SNIPPETS Sweat proof makeup Looking good? No sweat. With the coining of the term ‘active wear’ for what we used to call our exercise gear, now comes the consumer demand for genuinely bikram yoga-proof makeup. Marketing has paid a nod to the term - sweat-proof - to longer lasting formulas, but today cosmetic scientists are developing products that fit with the sporty lifestyle and give a boxing glow, a reformer radiance. The lasting power through a sweaty practice or class is one thing but the fuss-free, athletic style look, feel and regime is powering up the old ‘sweat proof makeup’ theme.
ADORE BEAUTY BUYBACK
Well worth it!
Kate Morris, Founder and CEO of Adore Beauty is buying back 100 per cent stake of the business, less than two years after selling a 25 per cent stake to Woolworths, realising that the obligations of raising capital for an already successful business was a disadvantage that was holding the business back. “Our visions were no longer aligned, the buyback of shares is a strategic decision to ready Adore Beauty for more growth and further expansion overseas, and to achieve our core objective - to build a disruptive beauty democracy,” says Kate Morris. In 2016, Adore Beauty has continued to dominate with 60% year on year growth, adding 50,000 new customers in the last six months and expanding its product range to over 12,000. In 2017 the company is tracking for 80% growth compared to the same time in 2016. To capitalise on customers’ strong brand loyalty, Adore Beauty has expanded its services, launching the Essentials portfolio, where customers can now shop for their favourite luxury brands alongside affordable brands. The Essentials platform was created so that customers can cross shop and buy an expensive foundation with affordable mascara. In January, Adore partnered with Borderfree, to enable Adore Beauty to expand into 200 new countries in 64 currencies.
CEW UK BEAUTY DEMONSTRATION CEW – the international beauty association – UK, London branch each year presents a series of events that show how we shop, learn and consume beauty products and treatments. It does this through its Beauty Products Awards beginning with the showcasing of the products at its now-famous demonstration night Over 750 CEW members, guests and press attended the evening – a showcase of outstanding innovation and creativity, marks the first step towards this year’s highly coveted CEW Beauty Awards – known as the ‘Oscars of the Beauty Industry’, held on April 28th 2017. 2017 is a landmark year for CEW as it celebrates 25 years in the UK with a record number of entries across 28 categories. Throughout the evening, attendees had the opportunity to visit brand experts at their stands, learn about upcoming trends in each of the categories and gain insights into the latest products and treatments. The luxurious relaxation area offered a selection of pampering experiences from leading sponsors and brands including Amazon Beauty, Marks and Spencer, Philips, ghd, Latest in Beauty, QVC and Benefit. Guests were able to indulge in manicures, skin consultations, brow shaping, hair styling and much more. To celebrate its 25 years, leading journalist and author Jo Fairley created a list of 25 of the most iconic beauty products to highlight 25 years of excellence. The awards also welcomed an additional category this year for the ‘Best New Wellbeing Product’ after seeing a huge rise in the concept of beauty and wellbeing over the past year. Similarly there has been a continued growth in the success of the ‘Eco Award’ with the support of sponsor Givaudan. Post event, all attending members take the products home to test before casting their vote for their favourites in each category.
About CEW Founded in 1992, Cosmetic Executive Women (UK) is a not-for-profit professional organisation with more than 1,200 members in the United Kingdom, from the beauty industry and related fields. CEW brings the beauty community together, at every stage of their careers, from every facet of the industry. Founded in the US in 1954, the organisation has 8,000 members worldwide. esprit Magazine Australia’s Editor, Andrea Ferrari was a founding member in the UK in 1992. CEW leads the conversation in beauty, addressing topics that are shaping the future of the industry and provides unparalleled access to industry influencers and thought leaders. CEW provides the connections, tools and leadership development resources to move careers forward. CEW recognises professional achievement and innovation in the industry to inspire the next generation of leaders. CEW is moving the beauty industry forward. See website www.cewuk.co.uk. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |17
INDUSTRY NEWS
Brett Riddington heads up KORA organics The beauty industry welcomes brand and retail doyen, Brett Riddington back, having joined KORA Organics on 1st March as General Manager. Brett tells esprit: “My role will be to work with Miranda (Kerr) and the team to manage the evolution and growth of KORA in Australia and our expansion into international markets”. Brett’s recent roles in beauty have seen him leading the Cosmetics Category in David Jones and prior to that, GM of Estée Lauder.
14th International Sun Protection Conference The main theme of the conference this year examines ‘Sun exposure vs protection: Getting the right balance?’ and will discuss sun protection strategies relating to the benefits of unprotected skin exposure and protection against short and long term skin damage by the sun. Can we create sun protection products that give us exposure to the benefits of the sun while still providing the desired protection from UV damage? The industry continue explorations into the quality of protection, particulary the UVA/UVB balance and IR protection. Additionally, internationally renowned expert speakers will provide an update on sun care technologies, testing and worldwide regulations affecting the development, testing and promotion of sun products particularly longevity claims for sun protection products. Info: 6-7 June 2017, Royal College of General Practitioners, 30 Euston Square, London, UK. Contact Summit events; T: +44 207 828 2278. E: info@summit-events.com.
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SkinCeuticals R E T U R N S T O L’ O R É A L
L’Oréal Australia’s Active Cosmetics Division has announced that SkinCeuticals will be integrated into their portfolio from April 1st 2017. This division is the world leader in dermocosmetics and in 2016 it further increased its share of the worldwide market with growth of +5.7% like-for-like. The division has a portfolio of brands developed and endorsed by health professionals including dermatologists, paediatricians and cosmetic doctors, including La Roche-Posay. “I am excited that SkinCeuticals will now be part of the Active Cosmetics portfolio in Australia,” says Jorn Zempel, General Manager Active Cosmetics Division. “SkinCeuticals is a quality cosmeceutical brand which leads the industry as one of the first companies to provide scientific evidence to support product benefits. We know that through its expansion in our market more and more Australians will embrace its promise of providing advanced products, backed by science. I also look forward to working closely with Catherine Biedermann, Managing Director of Advanced Cosmeceuticals to build on the work she has done to meticulously develop and distribute the brand here over the past 10 years.” The brand will be available through select dermatologists, cosmetic clinics, plastic surgeons, medi-spas, salons and online. With over 40 retail products available, this extensive portfolio is complemented with professional sizes used in and around professional in-clinic treatments.
A N T I P O D E S’ L I P P I E S Antipodes launches a range of natural lipsticks that celebrates the spectacular scenery and premium produce of New Zealand nature. Moisture-Boost Natural Lipsticks come in twelve shades with a hint of shine with names that pay tribute to their inspiration, for example: Queenstown Hot Chocolate and Boon Rock Bronze. “These natural lipsticks are superior to others on the market because they are so healthy. An abundance of natural, edible ingredients make these lipsticks healthier to wear every day,” says founder and CEO of Antipodes, Elizabeth Barbalich. These lipsticks have been formulated with ingredients that are not only safer to wear – but actually healthy. Pure plant oil ingredients are extracted from some of nature’s finest superfoods: avocado pear, calendula flower, evening primrose seed, and argan nut. Conditioning as they colour. All key ingredients are from natural origin with low levels of FDA-approved colour pigments for vibrancy. The whole range is certified vegetarian by the UK Vegetarian Society, the world’s most respected vegetarian organisation. The lipstick cases hold a unique reveal message: open them to find the two phrases of trademarked line ‘I’m so healthy... you could almost eat me™’, which adorns the silver packaging of the original Antipodes® lipstick range. The fully recyclable boxes are made from 100% biodegradable cardboard from sustainable forests.
Backing entrepreneurs Sahi Cosmetics – founded by Sheleen Sahi – is one of five start-ups in 2017 benefitting from Michigan University’s The Desai Family Accelerator program. It’s a collaborative effort between The Center for Entrepreneurship and the Zell Lurie Institute for Entrepreneurial Studies at the Ross School of Business. The Accelerator is a program open to the national start-up community, looking to help passionate entrepreneurs take their early-stage ventures to external-funding readiness by leveraging The University of Michigan’s expansive network of people and resources. Admission to the program includes close mentorship, business development support and a tight-knit community. Each receives an intensive program of funding, mentorship and resources to help early stage ventures scale and succeed. Companies selected to participate in the program earn an investment of up to US$50,000 with exclusive use of office space, intern assistance and over US$500,000 in resources. Beauty, as seen before Sparkly news for the cosmetics industry. “They” say there’s a return to the 80s and 90s makeup look which puts an emphasis on glamour and colour. Officially industry commentators’ antennae are tuning into some form of ‘nostalgia beauty’ as a major focus for the industry.
INDUSTRY NEWS
SNIPPETS
Olay’s app Olay is launching Skin Advisor tool, an app that the company hopes will help women “take beauty into their own hands” by giving them an accurate skin age estimate and suggestions for areas of concern with a personalised product regimen, based on a single selfie. Artificial Intelligence is the key to the brand’s own VizIDTM technology which uses the information of more than 50,000 faces scanned during the building of the app. The user answers a set of prompt questions beginning with why they are using the app. For a general assessment the user would choose the answer: Analyze My Skin. It continues with questions like “How many products do you use daily?” and “Which type of products do you use?” Olay product recommendations are given in a prescriptive manner addressing the concerns that have been indicated.
SECRETS of a beauty queen Australian doyenne beauty editor, Stephanie Darling, known to her mentees as ‘Mumma’, releases her book of memoirs – Secrets of a Beauty Queen on April 3rd. From a life in beauty media, Steph fills the pages with personal advice on luxurious treatments and her essential products. The book publishers describe it as a refreshingly honest, irreverent memoir from one of Australia’s most respected beauty journalists. Stephanie Darling has travelled the world interviewing celebrities, trialling new treatments and testing the hottest designer products. From landing her dream job at Vogue to the axing of Madison in 2013, Stephanie reveals all in this insider’s look at the beauty industry. With three decades of experience working at the forefront of beauty journalism, Stephanie has road-tested more than 170 procedures, all for her readerships: from going under the knife to lip fillers, colonic irrigation and vampire facials. As part of the global beauty press pack, Stephanie has interviewed scores of celebrities; bonding over chocolate Labradors with Anne Hathaway, comparing cosmetic surgery with Jane Fonda and discussing pelvic floor exercises with Dame Edna Everage. A life of exclusive beauty launches has also taken her to countless exotic locations, from Monte Carlo with skincare brand Biotherm to a L’Oréal Paris sun care launch in the shadow of Uluru. Secrets of a Beauty Queen also reveals Stephanie’s top grooming tips and fragrance suggestions for men, which have been extensively tried and tested by her sons Harrison and Jonah. As the (often) willing guinea-pigs in Stephanie’s life, her sons have also endured a range of pampering treatments including pedicures, facials and teeth whitening. Featuring skincare for all ages, expert techniques from the best in the business and Stephanie’s ultimate list of 100 must-have products, Secrets of a Beauty Queen is a behind-the-scenes personal account of the exotic – and sometimes outlandish – world of beauty and luxury magazines, told with wit and self-effacement.
Stephanie is currently Beauty Director for Sunday Life and Daily Life. Secrets of a Beauty Queen: Viking RRP $34.99, publication date: 3rd April 2017.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
SNIPPETS
LILY-ROSE DEPP – NEW FACE OF ROUGE COCO GLOSS CHANEL has named Lily-Rose Depp as the face of the new makeup campaign for Rouge Coco Gloss. The young, up-and-coming actress, is already the face for N°5 L’EAU. She embodies her generation and its values of freedom and boldness to perfection, bringing to the makeup her youthful freshness and beauty.
Tom Pecheux - global beauty director, YSL YSL Beauté welcomes Tom Pecheux to the family as its new Global Beauty Director. YSL introduces Tom as “the force behind all our future cosmetic creations and look forward to seeing his vision unfold”. In the studio… Working with YSL Beauté ambassadors Staz Lindes, Anja Rubik, Crista Cober and Edie Campbell, Tom will create new looks for YSL Beaute’s advertising campaigns. In the laboratory… Tom will collaborate with YSL Beauté’s key colour cosmetics creators, in order to develop innovative products, using his expert eye to create new makeup to excite and inspire. Out and about… As YSL Beauté’s new ambassador, Tom will be the makeup expert, inspiring YSL Beauté customers with his vision and expertise. Informing the world about the latest YSL Beauté make-up innovations his how-tos and unique colour statements will also be communicated via social media and international press. 20|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Turmeric times Is tumeric on your radar yet, as a beauty ingredient? Turmeric - a traditional Indian spice, known for centuries for its distinctive bright yellow tone and its anti-inflammatory properties - is a buzzword ingredient among beauty bloggers. The spice is being mixed up into masks, taking the recipes from long-held Indian beautification traditions. With DIY beauty as one trend tipped to rank highly in coming years, ingredients like turmeric will be mainstream in the category. In 2012 Aveda launched Invati hair growth products with tumeric. In 2016 Aveda launched Tulasāra Wedding Masque Overnight and Tulasāra Wedding Masque Eye Overnight to brighten, firm and repair the look of skin during the sleeping hours. And Katie Holmes told her Instgram followers recently that she’s a fan of Kiehl’s Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Masque. Smart beauty tech In line with what the Priceline Beauty & Health buyers found on their international Retail Discovery tour, wearables are definitely going to grow in usage. Tapping into the innovative minds of its savvy staff, Samsung created its C-Lab in 2012 for employees to develop their ideas through this start-up business programme. In 2017 two beauty-related devices have emerged: S-Skin, a home skincare and analysis solution; and Lumini, a portable device that checks your skin to identify and prevent skin problems. S-Skin has been designed to save on the time and cost of professional dermatological care. It uses a microneedle patch with a portable device that analyses the skin. This microneedle patch penetrates the skin to deliver skincare products, while the device can measure the hydration, redness, and melanin of the skin to provide customised skincare using LED light. The condition of the skin is saved in the accompanying app to track changes over time. Lumini is a portable device that spots skin problems before they happen. After taking a picture of the face with Lumini, it analyses the information using an algorithm and sends the information to an app. The device will then identify issues under the surface of the skin, such as pimples, freckles, increased pores, wrinkles, redness and sebum. Lumini recommends cosmetic products based on the analysis and offers a remote consulting service with a dermatologist or a skincare specialist.
esprit Magazine promotion
NEW
Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense
Each year, fans of Jurlique’s iconic Rosewater Balancing Mist look forward to the annual limited edition version of this very special product. Jurlique is delighted to confirm that the NEW Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense Deluxe Edition 2017 will be available from 3rd July 2017. Specially formulated with an exclusive blend of pure Rose extracts, Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense Deluxe Edition hydrates, restores and refreshes the skin as it indulges one’s senses. What’s unique for 2017 is a visual treat…a collaboration with acclaimed Australian artist Belynda Henry. Based in the secluded Dooralong Valley in NSW, Belynda Henry draws her inspiration from the raw purity and power of nature – just like we do, says Ann Donohue – General Manager Jurlique ANZ. “So when we decided to collaborate with an Australian artist to create a unique collector’s edition version of our Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense Deluxe Edition, Belynda was the natural choice. And we were delighted to learn we’ve been the natural choice for Belynda, too, ever since she began using our pure and powerful skincare as a university student”. “I had a part-time job, and I would go and spend all my money at Jurlique,” said Belynda. “It was one of the first brands I really loved. I loved the scents and the natural products.” Before starting work on her painting, Belynda travelled to our Jurlique Farm in the Adelaide Hills to immerse herself in its wondrous landscape. “The Jurlique farm was beautiful,” said Belynda. “The painting I created was my interpretation of the farm based on its colours and how it made me feel. The wide open space, the native Australian colours of the gum trees, and of course the Roses were my inspiration.” Belynda created a series of scenes that she pieced together like a jigsaw to paint The Jurlique Farm, the stunning artwork that appears on this year’s limited edition packaging.
Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense Deluxe Edition (200ml, $79.00) is available from July 3rd in store and online at jurlique.com.au only while stocks last. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |21
INDUSTRY NEWS
Turn your bath into Paradise
The Soak Life is turning the everyday bath into a tropical paradise with its debut line of bath & body products – Salty Bath Soaks. Made in small batches on the Sydney coast, these salty blends contain a soothing mix of natural, therapeutic ingredients to ease mind and body, and tropical scents that are designed to whisk the soaker away to a beachside paradise. Founder Yasmin Border tells esprit these bath soaks are intended to fill a void in the market. Border, who has an extensive background in the beauty industry, found that she couldn’t find a viable option on the shelves. “I’ve always been a big believer in the health benefits of baths, but I just couldn’t find any suitable for my needs. They were either too expensive, full of chemicals or just didn’t smell,” says Yasmin. “I remembered making bath salts with my Grandmother as a child, so I started reworking the original recipe for the next two years until I ended up with the formula for our Salty Bath Soaks”. Having grown up by the sea and with numerous holidays to the Pacific Islands, she was inspired to infuse each blend with mesmerising tropical scents. Her intention was to create an idyllic experience for soakers, reminiscent of relaxing in the warm, salty waters of the ocean every time they step into a Salty Bath Soaks bath at home. Each product contains The Soak Life’s signature blend – Epsom salts, which are known to ease sore muscles, release impurities from the skin, and destress the body with a natural dose of magnesium, Australian sea salts for their cleansing, skin-softening properties, Himalayan pink salt, which contains 84 trace elements and minerals, and antioxidant-rich coconut oil, which leaves the skin hydrated. The aromas range from hibiscus, star jasmine and warming amber found within Island Life, to the invigorating combination of peppermint and eucalyptus in The Big Chill, perfect for relief after a tough workout and loved by professional athletes. All blends are made in Australia, vegan, natural, and cruelty-free. The Salty Bath Soaks line is available directly from the brand’s website, The Soak Life and selected retailers. Available in six scents and two sizes from $12.95. www.thesoaklife.com. 22|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Every Bit Organic Every Bit Organic brings products usually made exclusive to Farmers’ markets directly into retail outlets around Australia. There’s a myriad of products that use the word ‘organic’ in their brand name but sometimes it’s hard to find organic beauty products that work well and genuinely have natural ingredients you can trust. Every Bit Organic has launched its RAW collection, offering a range of first pressed, cold pressed and unrefined oils; synergistically blended with powerful antioxidants and nutrients to feed the skin and body.These oils consist of Aloe Vera Oil, Arnica Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Jojoba Oil, Rosewater, Argan Oil, Camellia Oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Rosehip Oil, Shea Butter and Tamanu Oil; offering a blend of potent and active oils high in essential fatty acids or omegas, otherwise known as EFAs.
Clinique FRESH PRESSED
February saw the launch of Clinique Fresh Pressed System formulated with key ingredient - pure Vitamin C at the brand’s highest concentration. Vitamin C naturally degrades over time and is most powerful when it is fresh. The packaging presentation is critical to its successful usage: specialised stay-fresh mini-pouches isolate the pure Vitamin C until activation, maintaining its freshness and full power, to deliver remarkable results in seven days. From the first application, skin appears brighter and more radiant. With continued use skin is noticeably firmer, more eventoned, smoother, with visibly diminished lines and wrinkles and a radiant, youthful glow. Clinique Fresh Pressed™ Renewing Powder Cleanser with Pure Vitamin C and Clinique Fresh Pressed™ Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10%, pair up as a simple skincare routine to rejuvenate and de-age skin. RRP $45.00. Also available: Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10% RRP $100.00 and Clinique Fresh Pressed Renewing Powder Cleanser with Pure Vitamin C RRP $57.00.
SNIPPETS L’Oréal’s latest with Founders Factory Powering the growth of innovations in beauty, L’Oréal’s partnership with Founders Factory steps up a notch with its Accelerator Programme, where five start-ups have been selected from 180 pitches to benefit from intense technological, scientific, research and marketing support. Mindful of consumers’ ever-growing demand for personalisation, the companies chosen for the program include unique skincare solutions and customisable nail design. Preemadonna uses a Nailbot device and app that delivers a design that prints nail art onto nails via their smartphone – the plan is to get this to market in 2017 thanks to the L’Oréal/Founders Factory partnership. InsitU is a personalised, natural skincare brand founded in the UK by Dr. Maria Salichou, PhD Chemistry – Nuclear Medicine, University of Oxford. Currently available online only, being an Accelerator Programme ‘graduate’ will see mainstream commercialisation of the range. Cosmose, founded by a Polish entrepreneur and already successful in Asia, uses location technology to target offline customers via online channels. Veleza is an app-based community of beauty consumers that helps users discover products that best match their needs, and Tailify connects brands to social media influencers.
#KNOCKOUTSKIN
PERSONAL TRAINER SERUM FOUNDATION
路 SERUM AND FOUNDATION IN ONE 路 LIGHTWEIGHT, SHEER COVERAGE 路 SKIN BOOSTING MAGNESIUM,
COPPER AND ZINC
路 PEARLESCENT PIGMENTS PROUDLY AUSTRALIAN MADE AND OWNED FAMILY BUSINESS. DESIGNED FOR AUSTRALIA.
Ace of Base Celebrates 20 Years of Teint Idole - Its Global Best-Selling Foundation - By Reaching Out To a New Generation
What’s the makeup ‘compliment’ no one wants to hear? That’s a nice foundation. A good makeup should provide a gently glowing complexion teamed with a beautiful natural finish Few prestige brands know better than Lancôme that the key to a near-professional look is a just-right formula with true shade fidelity. Teint Idole Ultra 24H is the number one foundation for Lancôme in Australia, says Lucy Bradshaw, Marketing Manager, with sales posting double digit growth in 2016.
by Elisabeth King
Most successful beauty brands have hero products. They stand alongside trend-based collections and new products and continue to fly off the shelves amid heavily advertised competition. The fact that Teint Idole Ultra is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year is proof that the first fluid foundation to combine comfort and lasting wear stands up to the latest foundation advancements. Teint Idole has raised the bar several times since its debut in 1997, says Bradshaw. “In 2005, Teint Idole Ultra became the first foundation to offer 14 hours of wear. Four years later, wearability was extended to 18 hours and a compact version was introduced. The formula not only offers comfort, it stays soft and not tight on the skin so consumers had no difficulty accepting our next step forward - 24 hours of comfortable hold in 2012”.
Unprecedented number of shades for selfie generation So what does a brand do when it has created the epitome of what most women want in a foundation? Lancôme never rests on its laurels, says Bradshaw. “Teint Idole Ultra is the favourite foundation in France and is a top three performer across Europe. It reached the coveted number two spot in the US. Nine out of the top 10 best performing foundations sold in Australia are longwear full coverage. But when you have pioneered a formula that fits the bill and remains globally successful, you have to remember that it is satisfied customers who decide what works regardless of whether a product launched two decades ago or last week”. But even though Teint Idole Ultra 24H has a large and loyal following worldwide, Lancôme wants to introduce its icon to younger consumers. “The selfie generation has radically moved the goalposts when it comes to makeup routines and foundation”, says Bradshaw. “Women preferred a very classic, flawless complexion in the past, but today younger
24|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
esprit Magazine promotion
“ Women can not only find a perfect shade match, they can also experiment with complementary shades to ramp up the drama for more daring looks”
women want a range of foundations to create audacious, bold looks. That’s why we are opening a new chapter in the Teint Idole Ultra story in 2017”. In March, there will be a name change to Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear. “We are also introducing a new bottle with a crystalline appearance and a black lacquer top with Lancôme’s trademark golden rose. As part of our mission to recognise true diversity in beauty, the new generation Teint Idole Ultra Wear will be available in 13 shades with 3 new shades coming later in the year - from the lightest to the darkest. Women can not only find a perfect shade match, they can also experiment with complementary shades to ramp up the drama for more daring looks”.
Makeup is my power - multicultural beauty the norm The new look bottle and packaging will be kick-started by print and digital campaigns and large scale sampling. Supermodel and model it girl of the moment Taylor Hill is the latest addition the Lancome long list of empowered ambassadresses. At only 21 years old, the American beauty was voted Model of the Year in the 2015 Fashion Media Awards and is a Victoria’s Secret Angel. Ranking number 17 in Forbes magazine’s list of the World’s Top-Earning Models, she also has a fledgling movie career appearing in the films The Neon Demon and Hollywood Temptation. Our communication is three-fold, says Bradshaw. “We are dedicated to a defined sense of purpose that is highly unique to Lancome: Joyful-Modern-Parisienne Elegance. We are utterly obsessed in maintaining consistency in all of our actions from our communication, selection of ambassadresses to the instore experience. Taylor is a beautiful embodiment of these core values and reminds us that you don’t have to be born in Paris to be Parisienne. She brings a wonderful sense of modernity to the Teint Idole franchise. The images of iconic photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Pigott not only capture the amazing energy of Taylor, they also radiate the Teint Idole Ultra message - Makeup is My Power”.
100,000 Sampling campaign showcases superior performance The one thing about Teint Idole Ultra that hasn’t changed in 20 years is superior performance, adds Bradshaw. “The results from a recent survey are astonishing. A perfect 100 per cent of women said that Teint Idole Ultra Wear evens their complexion and doesn’t leave a residue. An equally impressive 96 per cent said it felt light on their skin and imperceptible to wear. A further 92 per cent revealed that their skin felt comfortable for hours and Teint Idole Ultra Wear lasts all day. While 87 per cent believed it delivered a perfect, flawless complexion.” Lancôme predicts that the celebration of the success of the past 20 years and the new campaign will achieve cut-through with the selfie generation. They want a look that can easily be changed, says Bradshaw. “From a radiant complexion in the morning to dramatically contoured at night. A transition easily accomplished in a few minutes with Teint Idole Ultra Wear for spectacularly impressive results. But seeing is believing and we will be releasing over 100,000 samples in the coming weeks so that consumers can judge for themselves. We are that confident of Teint Idole Ultra Wear’s enduring appeal”. “Foundation is one of the leading products women are prepared to spend more for as it’s the most intimate makeup product that you apply to your skin, that demands a huge level of trust”, says Bradshaw. Trust that Lancome believe they never failed to deliver.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |25
$44
PRIYANKA CHOPRA
$55
BURBERRY FULL KISSES
BENEFIT BENETINT
HOLLYWOOD’S LATEST LIPSTICK TREND IS
RED, HOT AND
SEXY!
$52
GIORGIO ARMANI ECSTASY LAQUER
During this year’s award season, Celebrities rocked bold lipstick colours giving a salute to screen-siren glamour. Whether you’re after a classic, long lasting lipstick colour or a sheer, glossy smile, here’s how to get the perfect A-list pout.
$50
LANCÔME L’ABSOLU ROUGE LIPSTICK
By Mary Zavaglia
MARY’S EXPERT TIPS GIVE YOU THE KEY TO PERFECT LIPS… • Dry chapped lips can ruin the effect of the best lipstick, leaving colour blotchy and uneven. Exfoliating lips with a gentle scrub will rid them of flaky skin while a clear lip balm will prevent chapping. • If lipstick changes colour once applied to your lips, it could be they have a blue undertone, which alters the product’s shade. Combat this by applying concealer to your lips prior to lipstick application.
LILY COLLINS
PRIYANKA CHOPRA’S DEEP BURGUNDY LIP WAS ONE OF THE STAND-OUT BEAUTY MOMENTS OF THIS SEASON’S RED CARPET. LILY COLLINS’ STUNNING ALL-RED LOOK WAS CREATED BY MAKE-UP ARTIST FIONA STILES. THE NOMINATED ACTRESS LOOKED LIKE A MODERN PRINCESS.
STEP 1 PREPARE LIPS To achieve a smooth professional lipstick application, you first need to prepare your lips by removing any dry or flaky skin. Use a gentle exfoliant, then apply a moisturiser or lip balm. Allow lips to settle for a few minutes and absorb their new moisture before applying lipstick.
STEP 2 APPLY COLOUR Outline lips by following your natural lip line. If your lips are too full, outline just inside the natural lip line. If they’re too thin, draw your line just outside your lip’s edges. Fill in lips using a lip brush, this guarantees an even and precise application, then deepen lip colour with a second application.
STEP 3 SEAL LIPSTICK To stop lipstick from bleeding or fading you need to set it. Gently apply a single layer of tissue over the lips, remove then apply translucent powder with a large powder brush. Finish by applying a final coat of colour, then dotting the centre of the lips with a clear gloss. 26|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
• If you need staying power, simply blot lipstick with a tissue. Next, using a powder brush, lightly dust lips with translucent powder then gently remove any excess. Re-apply your lipstick and voila! – you’ve got colour that’s there to stay. • Keep lip liner and lipstick colours similar. Either match your lipstick or go one shade deeper, sticking to pencils that contain flesh and beige base tones to complement your natural skin colour. • If you’re nervous about dark fashion shades, tone them down by applying a little of your favourite neutral lipstick over the top, then blend. • To lift unhappy looking lips that point down at the edges, draw a line slightly up and out at the corners. Carefully pencil in the upper corners to meet the new line of your lower lip. • For a sexy, seductive look, try combining the high shine of a gloss with the colour of lipstick. For maximum effect, apply a matching shade of gloss over the top of lipstick. KERRY WASHINGTON
$46
BOBBI BROWN RICH LIP COLOUR
WASHINGTON’S LUSCIOUS BERRY HUE WAS CREATED BY TOPPING DOLCE AND GABBANA’S SHADE DOLCE INFERNO LIPSTICK WITH GOLD GLITTER IN THE CENTER OF TOP AND BOTTOM LIPS.
E X C L U S I V E LY AVA I L A B L E AT
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CREATING A SP LA SH I N T HE AUSTRA LIA N FR A GR A N CE I N D U S TRY As a leading Australian fragrance manufacturer and distributor, Bondi Perfume Company has broken new ground in the world of scent creation with some of Australia’s most iconic names. Now you can be part of their cool and cutting-edge style. As producers of the countr y’s most prestigious celebrity scents and exclusive brands, the company has established an enviable reputation for bringing a fragrance to life. From the very first meeting to discuss ideas all the way through to a bespoke launch, Bondi Perfume Company (BPC) has the proven experience, and the team, to turn your ideas into reality. Working in partnership with some of the best fragrance laboratories in the world and
with access to an extensive network of more than 500 retail outlets, BPC is breaking new ground. From creating a smell, to carefully developing a bottle and a look, to manufacturing your product, BPC has you covered. And it doesn’t stop there. With the might of their experienced and award winning marketing team behind them, BPC will help you create all the materials you need to unveil your product to the public. Contact us today, to explore how Bondi Perfume Company can help you.
Contact Matt Verrocchi matt.verrocchi@bondiperfume.com.au www.bondiperfume.com.au
THE NEW FR AGRANCE
B Y D E LTA G O O D R E M
COME AND FIND IT.
THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY SARAH JESSICA PARKER
Mercedes Benz & Perry Ellis Lightboxes 2016.indd 1
T H E N E W E S S E N C E O F L U X U RY F O R M A N
20/07/2016 12:01 pm
A SENSITIVE SUBJECT
SENSITIVE SPOTS
MANAGING ACNE WITH SENSITIVE SKIN Zits, spots, pimples… call them what you may; acne affects most teens and a good chunk of the adult population too. With a plethora of misinformed home remedies circulating online (lemon juice and toothpaste mask anyone?) and an abundance of harsh products on the market, treating acne can be especially painful for those with sensitive skin. To expose the true secret to clearer skin with minimal discomfort we’re uncovering just how acne occurs and a exploring a dermatological acne regime, formulated for sensitive skin.
67% OF 15 TO 17 YEAR OLDS CLAIM TO HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN^
^Usage & Attitudes Study 2016
ACNE CAN’T BE TREATED OVERNIGHT Rachel McAdam, Medical Relations Manger, La Roche-Posay
The Biology Behind the Blemish Stage 1: The Build Up Hormonal changes cause a build-up of sebum. Excess sebum and cells clog the pores, causing blackheads and whiteheads. Stage 2: The Breakout A bacterium called P. Acnes multiplies in airless environments like blocked pores. This causes inflammation, raised red spots, postules, hard lesions and cysts.
The Good News is… With the right treatment, you can short-circuit any of the two stages of acne. For best results, consult your pharmacist for a dermatological skin care range that’s made for sensitive skin. La Roche-Posay is a sensitive skincare brand, recommended by 25,000 dermatologists worldwide.
3 STEPS TO CLEARER SKIN
MADE FOR SENSITIVE
1. Cleanse
2. Tone
3. Correct & Hydrate
Target excess sebum with a daily cleanser.
Target large pores and oily looking skin throughout the day with a toner mist.
Target blemishes, clogged pores and marks with an acne treatment.
Try Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel 200ml RRP $24.95 by La Roche-Posay.
Try Serozinc toning mist 150ml RRP $24.95 by La Roche-Posay.
GET EXPERT ADVICE WHEN YOU NEED IT. Visit www.LaRoche-Posay.com.au/ActOnAcne for acne advice from dermatologists and pharmacy experts. 30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JANUARY/FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Try Effaclar Duo {+} 40ml RRP $29.95 by La Roche-Posay.
PHARMACY INSIDER
Q&A
On acne myths and treatment with Pharmacy Beauty Manager Deborah Banham. Deborah has 30 years experience in pharmacy.
Q: How often do customers come in with Acne? A: Our pharmacy’s request for acne products have been building. Many acne products are readily available in supermarkets but are not always providing a solution for their concerns. Q: What is the most important first step to managing acne? A: Getting professional advice. Pharmacy is a great place to ask for assistance due to the range of professional dermo-cosmetic products and trained staff to listen to your concerns and recommend the best solution for your needs. Q: What factors exacerbate acne? A: Using products that are too harsh for the skin. They tend to dry the surface of the skin initially but actually encourage more oil production.
Q: What are the biggest myths or misconceptions about treating acne? A: That using strong products will clear the problem quickly. Q: Why is management of Acne more difficult for customers with sensitive skin? A: Acne products are often too harsh for sensitive skin. Irritation of the skin’s surface leads to dryness and then an increase in oil production. These customers have often tried many products and become disillusioned with little or no results. Q: What are your favourite La Roche-Posay products? A: The Anti-Acne Starter Kit is one of our best sellers. It is an easy two step program in a twoweek trial and is reasonably priced.
INSTAPRESSURE
DOES YOUR COVER-UP COMPROMISE YOUR NEW ACNE TREATMENT? In today’s snap-happy world, we all feel the pressure to keep skin clear and blemishes covered. But concealing acne with some make-up products can clog pores even further and compromise your acne regime. Look for products which provide an instant transformation and are effective in combatting acne at the same time.
TREAT & TRANSFORM 1. Mask
2. Tinted Treatment
Purify skin with an anti-acne mask.
Conceal blemishes and correct spots with a tinted acne treatment.
Try La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar Mask RRP $27.95 (pictured right).
Try La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar Duo [+] Unifiant 40ml RRP $29.95 (pictured far-right). Availible in two shades: Light and Medium.
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MARKETING
INDIE BRANDS The New Indies - Catalysts For Growth BY ELISABETH KING
The battle between beauty’s behemoths and niche players is coming to a rolling boil. That was the first line of a Women’s Wear Daily article in 2006, and the comment was old hat then. Niche beauty brands have been spicing up shelf space in earnest since the mid-1990s for many of the same reasons retailers stock them today. To help differentiate product lineups from the competition, to target certain demographics and to supply higher profit margins.Ten years ago, the major multinationals were also snapping up smaller brands with a point-of-difference and continue to do so.
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In 2007, 25 per cent of sales in the US prestige beauty market came from niche players. A statistic that also confirms that 75 per cent of prestige beauty sales were driven by mainstream brands. The beauty industry remains highly concentrated reports A.T. Kearney, the global management consultants. In both the mass and prestige segments, the top three multinationals account for a 40 to 50 per cent global market share in nearly all categories. The other half of the market is extremely fragmented, with a large number of brands. Even in Sephora, the poster retailer for nurturing niche brands, over 50 per cent of shelf space is filled with the beauty retailer’s private label products - a lineup of 700 SKUs - and brands belonging to its parent company, LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group.
Four Defining Factors But the New Indies, as niche brands are frequently called today, are a different proposition from their predecessors. They remain top acquisition targets, such as the buyouts of Too Faced by Estée Lauder and IT Cosmetics by L’Oréal, for different reasons, too. A.T. Kearney defines New Indies by four key factors.
Focus: They don’t try to be all things to all consumers and cater to the specific needs of a niche audience. Engagement: They attract consumers to the brand through innovative and authentic ways that allow them to drive and be part of the brand. Purpose: Emphasising the core values of the target market from family or community to social and sustainability issues. Channel To Market: Selling through speciality retailers or e-commerce. The last factor is blurry because department stores, mass retailers and drugstore and pharmacy chains worldwide have long been and continue to be major suppliers of niche and indie brands.
Social Media - The Key Game Changer But the game-changing support for niche brands that wasn’t available 10 to 20 years ago is social media. Up until recently, it was tough for emerging brands to break through. They didn’t have the big ad budgets of the major beauty players. Instagram, Snapchat, YouTube and Pinterest enable small and niche brands to compete on a level playing field with their multinational counterparts.
Social media also allows consumers to see microtrends and buy online. A fast-track route that is helping niche brands hit the $100 million turnover market at a much faster rate than even a few years ago. The audience is also global. Beauty fans don’t have to wait until local legacy or social media tell them about a new product or brand. A trend that is an enormous help to retailers as well because they can track interest and demand in new brands. According to US research, 52 per cent of heavy buyers of cosmetics use social media in making purchasing decisions.
Natural, Personalised and Independent The rise of natural and organic beauty has benefited niche and indie brands on a large scale. Research shows that nearly 50 per cent of Millennials look for organic makeup, hair and skincare products. Many of the New Indies are concentrated in the natural sector. The customisation trend has also given indie and niche brands a leg-up because they don’t have to manufacture on a huge scale. The personalised approach to beauty allows smaller brands to offer a particular - not generalised - expertise in eyebrows, foundation and more and still build a viable business. Independent brands semaphore - “I’m different” - to Millennials and Gen Zers who want something unique, whether they are choosing a high-end brand like Urban Decay or a value-oriented one like e.l.f. The intriguing colours and names, out-of-the-box packaging and service of the New Indie brands have huge appeal to younger women. Niche players can also react faster than the bigger companies. They can experiment in selected doors to come up with exciting promotions that have higher-than-average sellthrough for SKUs.
Authentic and Multicultural Catalysts For Growth Many niche and indie players fantasise about being acquired by a multinational or becoming a global sensation. But for every M.A.C, Bobbi Brown and NYX, there are dozens of brands that fail to make the grade. The global cosmetics industry is seeing a strong wave of acquisitions because major companies such as Estée Lauder and L’Oréal are looking for expansion in alternative channels and as a catalyst for growth because their core brands are mature. With consumers worldwide continuing to make a shift away from the department stores that haven’t created discovery zones, the multinationals are looking at brands that offer leverage through TV shopping channel, travel retail, e-commerce and speciality retailing. One of the other reasons cited for the success of New Indie companies is that their
storytelling is part of the brand. Again, nothing new here. Generations of women dreamed of being the next Elizabeth Arden, Estée Lauder or Helena Rubinstein. But their lives weren’t tracked on a daily or weekly basis. Many successful niche brands shine the spotlight on their founders, inviting consumers to explore the brand through social media and campaigns that offer authentic, two-way communication. Tapping into specific demographics apart from Millennials has also been a major springboard for the New Indies. In the Third Annual Beauty Study by TABS Analytics in the US, Millennial and Hispanic women are the heaviest buyers of cosmetics and skincare. “Millennial and Hispanic women are the clear drivers in the beauty market and account for 60 per cent of all sales”, noted Kurt Jetta, TABS Founder and CEO. “Both groups are steered by social media. Even mass retailers such as Walmart and Target have boosted their already strong performance in cosmetics by the addition of mass niche brands that appeal to both groups”. A similar scenario is present
is due to store layouts and brand assortments that are aligned to the tastes of their core customers. Millennials, in particular, approach buying beauty products as a journey of discovery. All three speciality retailers carry a selection of under-the-radar brands which bolster the popularity of New Indie brands with younger consumers. According to Karen Grant, global beauty analyst for the NPD Group, Sephora has been the fundamental change agent in the industry. “It shifted the dynamic from the traditional brands to kind of being a laboratory”. Plenty of others have picked up the baton, including Target, Priceline, David Jones and Myer. Inexpensive niche brands such as BYS and e.l.f are far more numerous than they were a decade ago and allow mass retailers to get out of selling commodity products at discount prices. While the New Indies have become a major catalyst for growth, they aren’t a licence to print money. According to Julie Tomasi, Senior Vice President of Ulta, the largest speciality beauty retailer in the US ahead of Sephora, the
in Australia with the impact of Asian buyers locals and visitors - and other key ethnic groups across prestige and mass. The rise of multicultural beauty has increased beauty sales globally because of the availability of wider shade ranges in nearly every colour cosmetic category. Nude no longer means just Caucasian skin. Different ethnicities prefer different skincare textures and many indie brands, notably from Korea and Japan, cater to these tastes. Niche fragrances are also on a huge roll because they give men and women the opportunity to come back to traditional perfumery and wear a fragrance that nobody else has. Last year, approximately 41 per cent of global fragrance launches were classified as niche. The explosive growth of speciality retailers such as Sephora, Ulta and Mecca Cosmetica
company doesn’t add a niche brand without ensuring it has a solid chance of success. “We don’t want brands that cannibalise existing business”, she adds. A salient point when there is so much duplication of trends and products among indie brands. But even though it gets so much publicity the hipster effect - where heavy cosmetic buyers avoid mainstream brands and outlets, is only a segment of the local and global beauty market. In another TABS survey, mainstream brands still have a colossal edge in brand awareness and are frequently viewed more favourably than indie brands. Loyalty for a niche brand is often based on product performance, not brand imagery, and that’s where social media delivers the message and the sales. Read more about New Indies in our Indie Beauty Expo 2017 report on page 45. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |33
evaluating the influence of Influencers The word Influencer evokes a withering feeling in many. Huge numbers of ‘followers’ are the subject of Modern Myths…with people repeating the throw-back line: “A million followers? Yes, but aren’t they all old men somewhere overseas just ogling at the posing girls?” Criticism and reality checks are always part of the evolution of a new way of working. As with everything there’s good and bad. Companies and agencies have to make their own decisions by evaluating engagement and the comments and conversations at the bottom of an Influencer’s post. If you’re a brand spending money on a campaign with an Influencer; always measure the ROI. Here we find out about a new way of measuring what works and what doesn’t.
What defines an Influencer? There is no doubting the impact that Influencers are having on trends, culture and on brands, but how do you measure the influence of Influencers? Edelman Australia, Associate Director, Content, Pauline Linton, shares the latest insights on influence. Targeting and reaching consumers has become “ increasingly difficult for marketers. There is no end to the amount of content, information and entertainment competing for our attention. Marketers have been forced to rely on paid advertising and sponsored posts with Influencers to ensure their content is seen – but even that is rife with obstacles. In this crowded and confusing environment how does a brand effectively apply its media spend in a way that surpasses these obstacles as well as consumer skepticism? Trusted Influencers. According to the 2016 Edelman Trust Barometer, 65% of respondents rate “a person like yourself ” as a credible or extremely credible spokesperson. So, by partnering with the right Influencers, brands can create content that their consumers want, ultimately increasing trust and engagement for the brand. Edelman has spent the past 12 months studying Influencer trends and mapping and has launched a proprietary Influencer Mapping Tool, to help brands better drive their Influencer strategy for more meaningful and measured results. Here are our top predictions for Influencer marketing in 2017.
”
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1.
More brand-owned and led programs: So, you have a list of ‘Influencers’, they all have big followings, and you want to do something with them. Stop. Wrong way. Go back. This happened and failed way too many times in 2016. This year, we’ll see brands starting with the end in mind. Thinking first and foremost about what they’re trying to achieve, what their consumers want, what they’re talking about and with whom, understand the forces (today and tomorrow) that are impacting the brand as well as consumers and design a program accordingly. And it’s only then that we’ll see them casting the right Influencers for that program. Most importantly, owning the program makes it easier to measure; and with increasing pressure for marketers to rationalise spend and prove ROI, Influencer marketing will need to become much more measureable.
2.
The “mass Influencer” deal has become more complex than ever: As the popularity of mass Influencers increases, the approach to such deals will need more scrutiny than ever. Brands should consider the value of the overall program when evaluating an expensive Influencer partnership. With return on investment being a top consideration, brands should weigh the total cost of talent, production and promotion against specific deliverables including total engagement, conversation volume and conversion. Think: is paying that beauty blogger, who claims to have 1 million followers on Instagram, your entire campaign budget to post an image you have no say over, the right thing to do? In 2017, brands will smarten up to the complexities around legal and business affairs as these will only increase. As agents get more involved with Influencers, points such as usage, exclusivity and content ownership will be key elements of the contracts.
3.
The Rise of Micro-Influencers: Micro-Influencers are classified as social personalities with 1,000 to approx. 10,000 (100,000 in the US) followers and often have deeper engagement and therefore actual influence over their communities than ‘Mass Influencers’ do. Their audiences generally act with more passion as they feel a greater sense of relatability and connection to the ‘Influencer’. Rather than partnering with one person on a major activation, we’ll start to see brands develop strategic, scalable, always-on programs and work with several Influencers over the course of their marketing calendar.
4.
Influencers have become/ created their own brands: While some Influencers will use their personality to create a brand and publishing ecosystem, others will pursue ventures ranging from clothing to tech. This year, brands will embrace the Influencers’ own thoughts, opinions, pens and cameras and work with them in more of a co-creation capacity, rather than simply as amplifiers. It’s vitally important that brands don’t let the Influencer’s ‘brand’ outshine their own. In 2017, we’ll see a lot more genuine collaboration and partnerships between brands and Influencers.
In this crowded and confusing environment how does a brand effectively apply its media spend in a way that surpasses these obstacles as well as consumer skepticism? Trusted Influencers. According to the 2016 Edelman Trust Barometer, 65% of respondents rate “a person like yourself” as a credible or extremely credible spokesperson. So, by partnering with the right Influencers, brands can create content that their consumers want, ultimately increasing trust and engagement for the brand.
key take-outs
The key take-outs for a successful Influencer program are: ✖ Don’t let Influencers be an afterthought ✖ Don’t rely on the size of their Instagram following to dictate your approach. ✔ Do familiarise yourself with the shifts in the Influencer landscape and know what they mean for your brand and your marketing plans.
For further information on Edelman’s Influencer Mapping program, contact: Pauline Linton, Pauline.Linton@edelman.com. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017|35
MYER REVITALISES ITS BEAUTY OFFER
Brand enhancement and new directions KEY for Australia’s leading prestige cosmetics player The department store beauty business today is a bit like an adventure movie. Lose your way and you risk getting lost in the wilderness. Competition has become intense with cosmetic sales being siphoned off by the explosion of speciality and concept stores, e-commerce and even fashion retailers venturing into cosmetics. But the formula for staying on top remains much the same as in the past, relevant brands and products that are well-positioned and marketed, says Gillian Ridley Whittle, Group General Manager Cosmetics & Lingerie for Myer.
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INTERVIEW
“
Cosmetics have become one of Myer’s best-performing categories over the past two years, routinely delivering consecutive quarters of growth year-on-year.
New Myer Strategy Paying Off Australia’s largest department store chain is well on the way to achieving this goal. The “New Myer” strategy was launched in September 2015. A five year plan, backed by $600 million worth of investment, the main aim is to focus on the company’s top-performing stores and most valuable customers. Core initiatives include advanced data analytics of Myer’s customer base to build a more accurate profile, customising inventory according to store catchment areas, the introduction of more ‘dwell’ areas such as eventing spaces and cafes in priority stores and driving e-commerce. The revitalisation plan has already paid off. Myer more than doubled its full year profit for the 2016 fiscal year to $60.5 million. Sales in flagship and premium stores in NSW increased by 5.6 per cent. The first store to showcase the New Myer strategy was Warringah Mall in Sydney, which opened its doors in November following the shopping centre’s nine-month, $310 million overhaul. Sprawling over 14,000 square metres, the revamped Myer store is reaching out to 40,000 customers in its catchment area and 11 million annual visitors. We are really pushing the envelope in the Warringah store, says Ridley Whittle. “It contains the first local rollout of Chanel’s new boutique storefront, previously trialled only in Hong Kong and Korea. Customers can walk through and test products rather than being served at a single counter. Over 60 new brands were introduced to Warringah, including leading beauty and fashion names such as Mecca, Benefit, Topshop/Topman and Seed. Myer Warringah is also home to our first men’s barber and grooming service”.
“
Myer is the number one prestige beauty retailer in Australia, she notes. “The market is in an amazing period of transition. There’s heavy competition from specialist retailers such as Sephora and Mecca, but our longterm strategy is to lead from the front. To develop a vision of who we are, what we do best and where we want to be”.
Cosmetics have become one of Myer’s best-performing categories over the past two years, routinely delivering consecutive quarters of growth year-on-year. The $400 million redevelopment of Pacific Werribee in Melbourne was opened last August. It’s in a rapidly growing area with a younger-skewing demographic, says Ridley Whittle. “The new store design, brand mix and services have been customised to what we know our Werribee customers want. We introduced M.A.C, for example, and the brand has exceeded expectations”.
Network-Wide Beauty Initiatives Apart from the strong performance of the newly refurbished lifestyle stores, Myer is introducing a new approach to beauty across its network. Niche didn’t reach their full potential in the early Noughties when Mecca opened concessions in David Jones. But with the success of Sephora concept stores in JCPenneys in the US and the huge popularity of hip niche brands among younger consumers, Myer has rolled out Mecca concept stores in eight select locations, says Ridley Whittle. “It’s not a matter of either/or. Mecca offers a different service proposition and brands that complement what we are doing”. In fact, the size of the prize is considerable for major retailers such as Myer who are creating a new model for selling the whole spectrum of beauty brands. “We do very well with top prestige brands such as Chanel, Estée Lauder, M.A.C and Dior”, says Ridley Whittle. “But we are constantly on the lookout for new brands. Not just prestige but up-and-coming brands. A whole host of new brands have hit Myer counters this year from local ones such as Hunter Lab, the natural skincare brand for men, and the internationally successful Alpha-H, with its global anti-ageing bestseller - Liquid Gold. Korean beauty brands are very much in demand and we are stocking several, including Saturday Skin”. The global shopper has become very important to the continual increase of Myer’s beauty business. Spending by Chinese tourists
visiting Australia is forecast to reach $4.1 billion this year and cosmetics are high on their shopping lists, according to a report by CBM. “We have seen huge growth from international shoppers in our flagship stores in Sydney and Melbourne”, says Ridley Whittle. “They are very discerning buyers. As with all our customers, we aim to be relevant in a way that surprises consumers, not just satisfies them”. Major changes are afoot all over the world in terms of how new prestige and niche cosmetics, skincare and fragrances will be sold now and in the future. World-famous retailers across the globe are busy trying to figure out all sorts of new configurations and ways to appeal to customers with virtual makeovers, computerised skin analyses and a constant flow of new brands and products. To succeed you have to stay ahead of the rest of the pack, says Ridley Whittle. “People are changing the way they shop yet it’s important to be more - not less - personal as a retailer. We have been honing what the Myer beauty offering stands for. Earlier this year in our beauty event, we showcased the “Here I Am” message as a glimpse of where we are going. It was all about self-truth and democratising beauty. We had bellboys giving out random acts of kindness gifts and curated beauty boxes to customers. In addition to this, we held Beauty Masterclass workshops in our flagship Myer Melbourne and Myer Sydney stores. Customers could book tickets for sessions with such leading brands as Elizabeth Arden, Bobbi Brown, Dior, M.A.C, Jurlique and Benefit”. With her extensive experience as a senior retail executive in the UK and Australia, working for Marks & Spencer and Target, Ridley Whittle has been guiding the reinterpretation of Myer’s new approach to beauty since May last year. Her challenge is to balance everything and keep moving forward. Today’s beauty environment is so competitive, if you stand still, you’re going to lose ground, she notes.
by Elisabeth King
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |37
Hints+Tips
Helen Armstrong shares key tips for using home fragrance products. Use home fragrance products in the same way you would use perfume and scented body products to fragrance layer. Select a diffuser for ambiance and add a scented candle for atmosphere. MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR FRAGRANCE DIFFUSER
Apsley
strikes gold
Apsley & Co home fragrance brand introduces a beautiful ‘world first’ product reminding us of Apsley’s origins in a wide selection of gold leaf bath and body oil products. Helen Armstrong, CEO and owner tells esprit: “We have reinvented what we did all those years ago and created a Made in Australia, suspended gold diffuser. “It’s taken quite a bit of development and initial feedback and orders have exceeded our expectations. We have registered the design concept worldwide. The range is tight: we have two sizes and two fragrances - our best sellers, (Green Tea and White Lily) and we are promoting this as a decorator diffuser rather than a fragrance diffuser as the scent is more delicate than our normal offer. Packaging is inspired by gold gilt using delicate brush strokes, and is boxed so customers can see the beauty of the product on the shelf. The lines will be available through lifestyle and gift stores. We are excited about opening new doors in the right environment. At this stage we have no plans to sell the range on line”. The Scented Space® Gold decorative diffuser is already sold into South Korea and with strong interest from the Hong Kong, China and Middle Eastern Market. “We are keen to work with more Australian Retailers to stock our home fragrance products”.
1 2 3 4
lace ALL the reeds that come with the diffuser P into the vessel. Turn twice to help start the capillary process of drawing the fragrance oil up the reed. lip the reeds weekly to ensure scent is refreshed. F Do this over a sink to avoid any drips or spills. For a more subtle scent, flip the reeds fortnightly. Make sure the diffuser is placed on a level surface away from drafts or air conditioning breezes to reduce evaporation. Consider placing two or three diffusers in complementary scents in the same room to create a truly unique and inviting space.
MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SCENTED GLASS CANDLE
1 2 3 4
Follow all the safety guidelines outlined on the candle and/or its packaging.
Trim the wicks regularly. They should not be longer than .05cm. This helps prevent sooting.
uring the first burn, wait until the whole surface becomes D liquid before extinguishing the candle. This creates the candle’s ‘memory’, and helps eliminate ‘tunnelling’. ever allow candle wicks to touch the side of the N glass or for the candle to burn the last 1cm of wax, to avoid flames touching the glass. A flame against the glass may result in an exploding candle!
CREATORS OF THE WORLD’S FIRST ‘SUSPENDED’ GOLD LEAF DIFFUSER
•
100% AUSTRALIAN OWNED AND EXPORTING TO MORE THAN 25 COUNTRIES
•
MARKET LEADER MIDDLE EAST, SOUTH KOREA AND TAIWAN
•
INDEPENDENTLY TESTED, DELIVERS SUPERIOR LONGEVITY AND PERFORMANCE
•
FIRST TO MARKET A FRAGRANCE DIFFUSER IN AUSTRALIA, UK, MIDDLE EAST, TAIWAN AND SOUTH KOREA
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A D E C O R ATO R D I F F U S E R W I T H S U S P E N D E D G E N U I N E 2 4 CA R AT G O L D M A D E I N AU S T R A L I A
• CREATING & SELLING HOME FRAGRANCE FOR OVER 25 YEARS • WORLD LEADING FORMULATIONS • SOLD IN OVER 25 COUNTRIES An Australian company based in Melbourne, we are here to support and supply premium products – call Lyndon to become a stockist: 03 9349 1800 scentedspace.com Apsley and Company | 15-17 Lincoln Square South, Carlton, Victoria 3053 AUSTRALIA | T: +61 3 9349 1800 © Copyright 2016 APSLEY and Company. DESIGN: suspended gold flecks are a feature of Australian Design Registration No.201615735 and AUSTRALIA design applications in other2017 countries ESPRIT APRIL/MAY/JUNE |39
A I N S L I E WA L K E R TA L K S
NICHE FRAGRANCE NEWS DIY Perfume Making Perfumery Making workshops are now being held monthly in Sydney. Guided by two perfumers - Jocelyn Fullerton and Ainslie Walker, attendees will experience a wide selection of raw materials and make their own perfume to take home. Interested? Contact www.work-shop.com.au to book, $120 per class. Additional dates in further Sydney locations, cities and regional areas are yet to be announced. Private tutorials and small groups can be arranged by appointment. Please contact ainslie@ainsliewalker.com for more information or to arrange a session.
Scents of Sydney
Scent as an art form is gaining in popularity, with olfactory exhibitions popping up in major galleries worldwide. As part of Sydney Festival, Carriageworks in Redfern hosted Scents of Sydney. Artist Cat Jones explored themes of resistance, landscape, competition, extravagance and democracy. Headphones and upturned cups on tables filled with the challenging aromas, encouraged visitors to sit and listen to discussions on themes while smelling. Competition: ‘Icons of A Lost Economy’ contained notes of stewing hops and pungent rich butter malt, almost chocolaty. This portrayed the disappearance of industrial Sydney, for example, the brewery in Chippendale, which owing to gentrification of the area has now closed. Extravagance: ‘Celebration’ contained notes of fireworks, sweaty bodies and amyl nitrate from the dance floor, signifying Sydney’s nightlife, New Year’s Eve and Mardi Gras celebrations. 40|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Australian Launch
During a recent trip to Australia, Master Perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian previewed, Aqua Celestia, the house’s first release for 2017. He held a fascinating workshop on ingredient notes that make up the greenfloral, unisex fragrance. Mexican lime, mint, blackcurrant, musk and mimosa are behind yet another head turning fragrance from the brand. In Mecca Cosmetica from April 2017, Australia’s exclusive stockist of Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Pictured: Clayton Ilolahia - whatmenshouldsmelllike.com and Francis Kurkdjian with Ainslie Walker.
Sephora Brand Exclusives Press Event Commodity released a luxurious platinum collection exclusively into Sephora in January. Leather, Tonka, Orris, Vetiver and Bergamot join the existing collection of ten fragrances. Commodity catch on to trends and execute them swiftly, in this collection Commodity reveals perfumers names, where raw materials were sourced and if they are sustainable something frequently seen in niche. Here we see the bridge between niche and mainstream narrowing and the ideas and styles from niche becoming more accessible and affordable.
News from the South! Melbourne’s Peony Haute Parfumerie has discontinued Le Galion, Helmut Lang, Olfactive Studio, Etat Libre d’Orange and Tom Daxon. On stocking exclusive brands, owner Jill Timms says: “It is always a leap of faith.” She recognises the competitive nature of the industry and makes decisions based on customer’s preferences. “I have a deep respect for the above brands but they just didn’t work for Peony.” The collections will go into sale until they sell through, the majority will sadly no longer be available in Australia. New and exciting collections are yet to be revealed.
What makes a brand Australian?
Map of the Heart, an Australian luxury niche perfume house, held a concept store in Sydney over summer. The polarising bottles designed by Pierre Dinand are anatomical hearts - veins and all! The five fragrances in the collection were conceived and packaged in France, utilising perfumer Jacques Huclier. In January we featured Goldfield and Banks, a brand conceived in Australia, featuring Australian natives, inspired by the Australian landscapes and sea. Created and produced by French perfumers in Australia, asides from the bottle, which is French glass. Grandiflora, also use French perfumers and have their bottles filled in Grasse, as “there were just not the facilities in Australia.” The Australian concept, executed in France, business model, seems to be common however without doubt perfume production houses in Australia are on the rise. It will be interesting to see what or who is next on the Australian Niche Fragrance Scene.
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AUSTRALIAN PROFESSIONAL PHARMACY – APP 2017 EXPO AND CONFERENCE
10. 02. 11. NATALIE ISHMIEL – NAD’S HAIR REMOVAL WITH NICCI
There’s one way to get to know a lot, and we mean a lot, of pharmacy beauty professionals from the shop floor beauty assistants to the decision makers in pharmacy beauty, to the brand owners and brand teams. And all manner of people associated with consulting, employment, education, merchandising and new technology. And that way is to go to the annual APP at the Gold Coast Conference centre, Broadbeach, QLD. esprit Magazine Australia saw the potential for networking and connecting early on and snapped up a great stand located by the Pamper Lounge and café/bar. Thank you to our goodie bag partners: Core Metrics for the Café Scrub and Pure Paw Paw, and to Burt’s Bees for the lip balm; to Tag Snaps for setting up and manning the instagram happy-snapper; to Paper Pak for the bags; to Look Print for design and Instagram prop; to Advantage Sales for the pick-n-pack and logistics; to BeeBio’s Tony and Tracy for their company on the stand for a day; and finally to Catherine and Olivia for their tireless work and huge-fun company manning the stand with us. Here’s a snapshot of some of the fun we had and the people we met.
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12. AVÈNE 13. ART DECO’S ROZLYNE VIDAL, BRENTON FOSTER, BRIDGET PARKINSON AND BROOKE TREBY
14. LOCUMCO’S SUSAN MILLER AND ASA TSE 15. PHARMACY GUILD OF QUEENSLAND – KATHY
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KNACK AND DEBORAH SCHOLZ
16. BIO–OIL AMBASSADORS KIM BROWN AND AMANDA GARLING
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17. THE PHARMACY CLUB’S AILENE HLAING AND LEISA WITTS
18. WA’S PHARMACY 777 19. ACCORD’S BRONWYN CAPANNA WITH ANDREA 20. MALOUF GROUP’S ILONKA SCHNEIDER AND ANDREA
21. ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA’S TEAM FOR APP: CATHERINE, NICCI, ANDREA AND OLIVIA
22. P&G’S SALLY STRAUTINS, BELINDA ENGLISH AND CANDICE GLYNN
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01. NICCI HERRERA – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA WITH API/PRICELINE’S LIZ WEBSTER AND ROB TASSIE, AND ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA
02. GILLIAN FRANKLIN – HEAT GROUP WITH ANDREA 03. JOJOBA COMPANY’S WENDY WIDDECOMBE, JOY
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TURNER AND DIANA KAPPERT
04. ESSENTIALS-IN-A-BOX 05. E-LEARNING BY THE PHARMACIST’S CLUB AND THE PHARMACY ASSISTANT’S CLUB ON THE MYLAN STAND
06. STEPHEN DI MARZO – LA ROCHE–POSAY 07. COCONUT REVOLUTION – ROBERT FRASER,
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CHARLES AND DAVID KIFT
08. PAULINE STEWART – INTEGRIA – THURSDAY’S PLANTATION
09. NAPOLEON PERDIS – COURTNEY SPACKMAN AND XENIA TUFFANELLO
10. ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA’S ‘BEST AT SHOW’ GOODIE BAG
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AVÈNE PHYSIOLIFT LAUNCHES Avène PhysioLift range offers high-tech formulations to prevent and correct key signs of ageing for every skin type, even the most sensitive. Eau Thermale Avène’s ‘space’, with some 20 years of anti-ageing dermatological expertise, is in sensitive skin. April 22nd sees the on-counter launch of its latest antiageing innovation, PhysioLift. The PhysioLift range combines high-performance actives in exclusive, patented combinations, to maintain the skin’s architecture and maintain or restore skin’s youthful appearance. There are four products providing a 24-hour skincare routine that prevents and corrects the appearance of pronounced wrinkles, deep furrows, and loss of firmness and luminosity in all types of ageing skin, even the most sensitive. Eau Thermale Avène invited beauty media and their mums, or besties, to lunch for the big reveal. Julie Dejean, Avène/Pierre Fabre, talked everyone through the products. Working in partnership, Avène’s PhysioLift Smoothing Day Cream ($68.95, 30ml) smooths the appearance of wrinkles and increases skin firmness during the day, while Avène’s PhysioLift Smoothing, Regenerating Night Balm ($69.95, 30ml) works its magic at night. The PhysioLift Eye Contour ($64.95,15ml) is specifically formulated for the fragile skin of the eye contour, while Avène PhysioLift Wrinkle Filler ($69.95, 15ml) visibly corrects the deepest wrinkles and furrows using a precision applicator. The new PhysioLift range uses exclusive, breakthrough active ingredients, rigorously selected for their high performance by Avène’s team of Dermo-Cosmétique experts, dermatologists and scientists. With a desire to offer concrete solutions to women wanting to preserve their youthful appearance 24-7. Check out the website for details: www.avene.com.au. “PhysioLift has redefined anti-ageing treatments, respecting the skin’s physiology as closely as possible and identifying the maximum
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01. PIERRE FABRE’S JENNY DONG, JULIE DEJEAN AND ANNE-CHARLOTTE JAKUBCZAK WITH DR FRANCES TEFANY, DERMATOLOGIST
02. MARY ZAVAGLIA - ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA AND FREELANCE CONSULTANT IN LA
03. SIGOURNEY CANTELO - BEAUTICATE AND MOTHER-IN-LAW LYNEE CANTELO
04. PHYSIOLIFT GIFT BAGS 05. SALLY HUNWICK - COSMOPOLITAN/ COSMOPOLITAN BRIDE, STEPHANIE DARLING - SUNDAY LIFE AND LUCY ADAMS - MARIE CLAIRE
06. DANI LOMBARD - DANI LOMBARD PR, ANDREA FERRARI - ESPRIT MAGAZINE WITH SHAZZIE CULLINGTON
OUT & ABOUT
molecule size for ideal efficacy and delivery of every ingredient,” says Avène’s Scientific Communication Manager, Anne-Charlotte Jakubczak. “A maximum size was identified for each molecule, which strongly increases its performance in the skin by maintaining natural mechanisms for an anti-ageing result. While some level of structural skin weakening in the skin as we age is inevitable, PhysioLift teaches the skin to “outsmart time” by preserving and restoring its natural architecture,” she said. In addition, the PhysioLift range is hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and free from parabens. The formulas are also protected from oxidation thanks to their airless packaging. Available at leading pharmacies nationwide from April 22nd, 2017.
07. EVELEIN FRANSSON WITH HER SISTERIN-LAW, JENNIFER AITKEN - GOOD HEALTH, LAURA WILSON - NW/OK AND HER MUM, JOSEPHINE WILSON
IT’S ONLY FAIR when you’re SENSITIVE The Body Shop’s caring new body care range, Almond Milk & Honey, for sensitive, dry skin taps into the needs of 1-in-3 Australian women who believe they have sensitive skin. According to The Body Shop’s research, sensitive skin is currently one of the highest global skincare concerns, racking up over 270,000 Google searches over the last year. With this in mind and seeking a gap in the market, The Body Shop found that many of the classic, sensitive-skin products on the market are great when it comes to soothing sensitive, dry skin, but the brand asked, ‘are they a joy to use? The result: a thoughtful skincare range that combines nourishing and restoring ingredients with pleasurable textures and a subtle hypoallergenic fragrance – which makes using the products an enjoyable experience. Importantly, considering the growth of the conscious consumer, The Body Shop continues its Fair Trade ingredients commitment. It is enriched with Community Trade almond oil from the Alicante region of Spain and Community Trade honey from the UNESCO Sheka rainforest in Ethiopia. Shannon Chrisp, Marketing & Corporate Responsibility Director explained to press at the media launch: “Almond oil comes from almond nuts grown by expert farmers in Alicante, Spain. It is a new ingredient within our Community Trade programme, taking us one step closer to our Enrich Not Exploit Commitment to double the number of Community Trade ingredients we use by 2020. To collect the precious honey we source from the Sheka rainforest biosphere reserve, we work with the ‘bee whisperers’ of Beza Mar, a group dedicated to improving the livelihood of Ethiopian beekeeping communities and maintaining their traditional, natural way of working with the bees. Our trade helps support the sustainable use of the forest by providing ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |43
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who know L’Occitane have a firm favourite”. With its depth of knowledge, experience and wide range, timing was right to take on the challenge to create something different, something unique and something that truly captures the essence of Provence in a multi-
01. GARY GORROW – VEDIC PRACTITIONER
a steady income to local people who might otherwise be forced to rely on agriculture that could lead to deforestation.” Guest speaker at the press event was Gary Gorrow, a Vedic practitioner. Gary talked about the ayurvedic philosophies starting with the focus on thriving. Being quiet and still and honing our five senses which, in today’s world, are depleted; and setting your intention, really directing your energy towards your goal. Then let the universe take care of the details. For more on understanding Vedic philosophies that will enhance your health and wellbeing, in a straight forward presentation, see www. garygorrow.com.
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Almond Milk & Honey, for sensitive, dry skin – Soothing & Restoring Body Lotion 200ml, RRP $22.95. Gently Exfoliating Cream Body Scrub 250ml, RRP $29.95, Soothing & Caring Cleansing Bar 100g, RRP $6.95. Soothing & Caring Shower Cream 250ml, RRP $12.95. Soothing & Caring Bath Milk 400ml, RRP $29.95. Soothing & Restoring Body Butter 200ml, RRP $27.95. Calming & Protecting Hand Cream 30ml, RRP $9.95 The scent of light
THE SCENT OF LIGHT Terre de Lumière - the land of light - is the first Gourmand fragrance from L’Occitane. In a natural progression for the Provencal-inspired brand to build on its significant expertise in perfumery - now 41 years - the fragrance takes notes from its heritage. Lesley Bowen - PR & Communications Manager - L’Occitane Australia briefed a group of media through the story at a celebration for the launch: “Our tradition has been to create fragrances around a single ingredient, like our Verbena, Cherry and Lavender Eau de Toilettes to name a few… these beautiful fragrances are loved by many and are synonymous with our brand… most 44|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
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of Provence. It’s the element that makes this region so magnificent, so unique. Light is an element that stirs the emotions, because it conjures up memories – different ones for different people. It makes everything beautiful. It’s a ‘universal’ element, but also one that is very personal. We wanted our new fragrance to capture the way that light evokes emotions. “In Provence, there is a specific time of day when the light embraces the sky and blesses the earth with a fleeting interval of grace. This is the Golden Hour…before sunset, when the earth cools, when the scents of the flowers are heady in the air when the landscape changes and the light transforms everything it touches.” Terre de Lumière, a new fragrance for women, inspired by the Provençal light. On counter 26th April – in time for Mother’s Day. RRP 90ml $150.00 and 50ml $110.00.
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01. ANDREA FERRARI - ESPRIT MAGAZINE WITH TONI SULLIVAN - L’OCCITANE
02. NICKY RYAN - PHOTOGRAHER, SAMI LUKIS, HAYLEY D’ONOFRIO - IN STYLE AND STACEY TRINH - L’OCCITANE
03. TERRE DE LUMIÈRE 04. STACEY DOCHERTY - L’OCCITANE AND ANDREA MICHELLE - FOX IN FLATS
05. L’OCCITANE TEAM: LESLEY BOWEN, BELINDA MULLINEAUX, JULIE CAHN, TUYEN BUI, ARABELLA CLARE AND STACEY TRINH
06. SAMI LUKIS - BRAND AMBASSADOR L’OCCITANE
faceted Signature fragrance. A grand ambition. The three perfumers, all women, have a strong affinity to the region of Provence: Calice Becker, Shyamala Maisondieu and Nadege Le Garlantezec - olfactory geniuses. The contrasts of Provence are captured in a paradox: the fusion of the aromatic facet and a gourmand heart of Lavender Honey give Terre de Lumière its Gourmand classification. Traditionally L’Occitane products are inspired by something special, something unique and something which creates a new chapter in its rich Provincial heritage. “Writing a new chapter in our story took us back to the beginning – to the source of the beauty of Provence. The land of scents and aromatic plants…the very plants that become our precious ingredients. And every trail we followed led to the light... something about this light never ceased to intrigue us. The light is the purest essence
Nude by Nature, invites customers to try its ‘3 Minute Glow’; the essential products, applied in a time-appealing three minutes that tick the ‘makeup done’ box beautifully and in a jiffy. The curated collection of products from the awardwinning Australian makeup brand features the recently launched Sheer Glow BB Cream (and BB Brush), the famed Nude by Nature Liquid Mineral Concealer, the enhancing Touch of Glow Highlight sticks and the Allure Defining Mascara. Leanne Parodi, Marketing Manager Nude by Nature says: “Designed to create a flawless look for days when less is more, these time-saving go-to products are – as expected from Nude by Nature - cruelty-free, natural and with ‘good for you’ benefits, that will have you glowing from inside and out.” Beauty Editors were guided through the 3 Minute Glow Masterclass makeup routine by one of Australia’s most-booked makeup artists, Max May (www.maxmade.com.au).
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01. MAX MAY HEADS THE DEMO WORKING WITH HIS MODEL, TAKING BEAUTY EDITORS THROUGH THE QUICK STEPS
02. LAURA WILLS - OK! AND NW WITH SALLY HUNWICK – COSMOPOLITAN
03. SHEREE MUTTON – AUSTRALIAN WOMAN’S WEEKLY WITH LEANNE PARODI – MARKETING MANAGER, NUDE BY NATURE
INDIE BEAUTY EXPO BY MARY ZAVAGLIA IN LA When I heard that Indie Beauty Expo was coming to Los Angeles, I was thrilled. I had the pleasure of attending and let me tell you it was a wonderful, eye opening experience. The world of independent beauty is rapidly gaining popularity and it seems to be geared towards a “green” beauty movement. The show was the perfect aide in my own transition to “green” or environmentally friendly beauty with plenty of opportunities to try and buy new, under the radar products and learn about their brand’s philosophies. Jam packed with workshops, panel discussions, speakers, cocktails and good vibes the Indie Beauty Expo never provided me with a dull moment. I learned that to be considered an “indie” product at least 50% of the company must be owned by those directly managing it. The products displayed were an eclectic mix of some better-known brands like Arrojo and Skin Inc Supplement Bar to complete newcomers Jolii Sense of Beauty and all natural men’s products from Kobe Bryant’s personal Groomer Guise Etiquette. This was the show’s 2nd year, founded in 2015 by former spa owner and esthetician, Jillian Wright, with the desire to create a means for entrepreneurs to connect with press, buyers, and consumers. The show is a perfect snapshot of a sector that is continually driving trends. “Indie is being taken seriously now, not only by the press and buyers but also by the brands themselves. They are no longer wallflowers in a multi-billion-dollar industry. These indie brands are taking center stage,” says Jillian. There is a method in Jillian’s process of selecting the brands for the expo that requires months of examination for product efficacy and market viability. She carefully looks for companies with a readiness to showcase, with a business plan, great website, social media presence and distribution or at least a solid distribution date. A trend that I noticed as I was making my way
HERE ARE SOME OF THE BRANDS THAT I AM MOST EXCITED ABOUT… Jolii - which has some excellent matte liquid lip sticks. The formula is moisture rich and the colour lasted all day. The main ingredients are jojoba and shea butter. Another product that stood out for me was Luxe Botanic which is a luxurious skin care. The products feature organically grown ingredients such as Marula oil from Kenya, Camu Camu berry from Brazil, and Kigelia Africana from Malawi, all proven to naturally nourish, brighten and clarify the skin. A mention that’s close to my heart: The Beauty Chef an Australian brand created by Carla Oates. Her philosophy is that the first step to healthy, radiant skin is having a balanced digestive system – good gut health. The organic products embrace a blend of natural fermented food products for inner and outer use. There was even toothpaste being exhibited that I had to add to the list, Lebon Toothpaste - a luxury toothpaste made in France. Their fragrances are 100 percent natural and the flavours were remarkable. All their products are cruelty and paraben free. And finally, Province Apotherapy was another inspiring product owing to its simple and organic ingredients. It was designed for those with sensitive skin and allergies to chemicals, only incorporating organic fruits, vegetables, oils and oats into their products.
All these products plus many more have excellent marketing resources through social media and websites but nothing beats being there, touching, feeling and experiencing the products themselves. There were retail giants attending the show such as Whole Foods and Sephora that are looking for the next best product line to bring on. Also, smaller, yet influential startups like Violet Grey and Detox Market attend to check out the line-up. The expo proudly welcomed makeup artist and entrepreneur Bobbi Brown as one of the featured speakers this year. Bobbi inspired many young and eager entrepreneurs at the show with her personal story of starting up her cosmetic company and the global success it has led her to. “The indie movement is changing the face of the industry, and it is the brave entrepreneurs behind indie brands who are driving this change. I am delighted to share my experience with them and hopefully provide helpful perspective as they navigate through their own journey”, said Bobbi Brown. The founder Jillian Wright says “Bobbi has been an inspiration to so many of us as women, entrepreneurs or beauty professionals - in this industry”. It has since been confirmed that Bobbi is leaving her brand in the capable hands of 21-year-parent, Estée Lauder Companies and moving on to go back to her roots and create a new indie brand which no doubt will be inspired by organic ingredients, sustainable practices, potentially healing beauty…but that is just personal assumption. There were over 230 brands exhibiting at the Indie Beauty Expo this year, displaying excellence in innovative beauty. It was a pure delight being there and getting to experience what the future of beauty will look like.
OUT & ABOUT
from brand to brand that tied nicely into the “green” beauty theme was the incorporation of energetic and healing properties into the products. For example, the founder of Rutz Naturals, Steph Schuler, is a Reiki master and explained how she lovingly bestows healing, vibrational energy into each of her products. This made sense to me because today people are seeking beauty through healing and they want to experience something more than just another organic brand to slather on. They want something deeper that will help radiate their beauty from the inside out. The body is more than just matter; it is energy-vital energy. It is called Prana in yoga and Ayurvedic medicine and chi in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). The concept is an ancient one and is reemerging. Deepak Chopra M.D. stated in his book, Grow Younger, Live Longer. “Your body is a field of energy, information, and intelligence… capable of perpetual healing, renewal and transformation.” So, it seems the right energetic skin care product and a knowledgeable practitioner/consultant can guide customers in optimising their products to balance their energy flow while reaping in the beauty benefits as well. Mindfulness about managing one’s own wellbeing – inner and outer beauty – is gradually growing.
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JAESUK KIM & LANCÔME ARTFUL COLLABORATION Lancôme is collaborating with internationally renowned illustrator, Jaesuk Kim. The partnership is a natural fit for Lancôme; the synonymous Parisienne elegance paired with the modern beauty and joyful style of Jaesuk’s approach, aligns perfectly with the brand. “Beauty, femininity and effortless elegance with a touch of playfulness is what comes to mind when I think of Lancôme. Collaborating with this beloved French brand is such a dream. The DNA of Lancôme is a perfect fit to my Susu Girls – Joyful, modern, feminine, chic yet whimsical which is quintessential in Paris!” - Jaesuk Kim In celebration of this beautiful collaboration, Jaesuk Kim has designed a series of customised illustrations exclusively for Lancôme. In 2017, the brand will launch the limited edition cosmetic bags and pouches. The first of these collaborations launched exclusively at David Jones. “Lancôme Australia has a rich heritage of partnering with local emerging artists to bring the storytelling of Paris to life. Jaesuk was the perfect choice to embody our brand’s sense of purpose of joyful, modern and Parisienne elegance.” - Lucy Bradshaw, Marketing Manager for Lancôme.
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02. ICY LING, SILVIA WEI AND RICHARD SUNN FROM INDULGENCE
03. KELLY WITH LARA SROKOWSKI, KEIRA RUMBLE AND BONNIE GILLIES
JURLIQUE
EXPERIENCE RADIANCE Andrea Martens, Global Chief Brand Officer, Jurlique welcomed beauty media to introduce the brand’s campaign/vision/focus for 2017 called Experience Radiance. “Having joined the team last year, I’ve seen what a unique and dearly loved brand Jurlique is here at home, and all around the world. People genuinely light up with a smile when they talk about Jurlique”, says Andrea. “Having grown up in the Adelaide Hills myself, it’s very special knowing that here there is the magical little piece of the Jurlique farm - the heart and soul of the brand from Melbourne to Manhattan, London to Lyon, Shanghai to Sydney. Our Aussie brand, grown and produced in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, is a prized global citizen. “When we talk to women all over the world it’s clear that how they feel about themselves, their confidence, is key to their overall radiance.
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For Jurlique and these women it’s a given that their preferred choice will be natural, but that efficacy is essential. It’s with this in mind that Jurlique harnesses the power of nature and 30 years of skincare expertise to create truly effective skincare for every skin. It’s clear from the success of the brand - Jurlique is still the No.1 selling premium/prestige skincare brand in Australia - and returning customers, that the belief is there. Additionally our skincare trials have further proven these great results - but how does Jurlique create this glow, this radiance? “Take a moment to think of yourself in nature. Your favourite park, scenic walk, or special place in a garden. How do you feel when you are there? Reconnected? Like you can breathe more deeply, fully? More relaxed, happy, regenerated? At Jurlique we believe that nature is the answer. That nature is powerful. That there is no replacement for the purity of nature, and that our formulations, containing carefully selected botanicals are both pure and powerful - so skin glows, and is radiant”. Andrea then showed guests a short film, a behind-the-scenes look at the making of the campaign visuals. For the first time in 30 years Jurlique is using faces instead of botanicals. Jurlique has chosen four everyday women, each selected because they exude natural confidence and a radiant glow. “At Jurlique we believe confidence, the way you feel is the key to radiance”, concludes Andrea. 01. THE NEW CAMPAIGN 02. ANDREA MARTENS - GLOBAL CHIEF BRAND OFFICER, JURLIQUE
03. SALLY HUNWICK - COSMO, DELANEY LOANE AND LAURA WILLS - NW AND OK
04. LAURENCE CRUSSOL - GLOBAL DEPUTY CEO AT JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL
POWER TO THE POWDER THAT PROTECTS FROM POLLUTION Dermalogica’s Daily Superfoliant arrived on counter in February – but first beauty editors had an education briefing. Hosted by General Manager, Suzette Cassie, who started in her role when the company launched in Australia, some 13 years ago, the product was presented by Emma Hobson, Education Manager for The International Dermal Institute. This is a year where product innovation is the focus of business. With the brand upping the ante having access to its parent company, Unilever’s R&D, we will see smart new products rolling out over the next three years, says Suzette.
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Emma Hobson opened her product presentation by inviting the beauty editors to log on to: www.skinpollution.com to see Dermalogica’s pollution index calculator. It’s absorbing stuff. Just type in your location…or your prospective holiday or business destination and see the risk level – that’s interesting enough – and then cleverly, Dermalogica recommends their most fitting product(s) to use to protect again pollution damage. On the sunny February day that esprit Magazine checked it out, our HQ in Birchgrove, NSW was impressively low at 9% pollution risk and Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC was 40%. Try any location you fancy – it’s fascinating. esprit wrote about Dermalogica’s Daily Superfoliant in the January issue. In a nutshell it is a highly active powder resurfacer which leaves skin ultra-smooth, while combatting the environmental pollution triggers known to cause brown spots, fine lines and uneven skin tone. Drawing on the same innovative powder form that has made Daily Microfoliant a best-seller, it is gentle enough for daily use but powerful enough to give immediate results. Available now at Dermalogica salons in David Jones. RRP $85.00, 57g.
Burt’s Bees demonstrated its new Skin Nourishment collection to the press, before going on counter, with facts about hero ingredients and their efficacy. Key to the formulation, as always with this brand, is natural ingredients, and in this range the hero is Royal Jelly. Ingested or topically applied the nutrient-rich bee derivative is used for its health promoting effects – a healthy skin glows from within and is less wrinkled and dull on the surface. Combined with moisturising macronutrients: antioxidants, Vitamins B1, B2 and B6 and essential amino acids the range of products comprehensively covers the essentials for those seeking anti-ageing and intense hydration at an accessible price range. Also presented was new Complete Nourishment Facial Oil which addresses consumers’ concern of shiny oils by applying with a sheen, through a dropper which doses drop by drop to control application. Celeste Lutrario – Vice President Global R&D, Burt’s Bees featured on a video, saying: “Your skin is your largest organ – feed it what is needs most and deserves. Natural ingredients work as a team. Every ingredient serves a purpose.” Bringing the new Tinted Lip Oil range to life at the media presentation, Burt’s Bees invited illustrator Moomooi to talk about and show her designs which will feature on collateral for this collection. Using nature in her designs is a theme for this artist making her an authentic fit for Burt’s Bees. Read more about both launches in esprit Magazine Australia January issue pages 10 & 11.
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04. 01. DERMALOGICA GENERAL MANAGER, SUZETTE CASSIE WITH MAKEUP ARTIST, GILLIAN
02. ELIZA SORMAN NILSSON, BODY + SOUL; LAURA
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WILSON, NW & OK! AND ANNA LAVDARAS, HARPER’S BAZAAR
03. ELLEN PRESBURY, RUSSH; LUCY ADAMS, MARIE CLAIRE; CARLIE FOWLER, THE FILE WITH REMY DUSCHER, VOGUE
42. BRITTANY LANE, BURO 24/7 AND CHRISANTHI KALIVIOTIS, THE CAROUSEL
01. BURT’S BEES TEAM: AMELIA MORISON, FIONA MENDONCA, RACHEL FAULKNER, LEIA BERRYMAN AND DAVID WHATSON
02. ILLUSTRATOR, MEREDITH WING @MOOMOOI 03. MEREDITH WING’S DESIGNS FOR BURT’S BEES
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OUT & ABOUT
BEE-ING BEAUTIFUL
01. MEGHA KAPOOR – INSIGHT WITH TALISA SUTTON – BADLANDS BLOG
02. GAVIN SOMMER – AGENCE DE PARFUM AND STEVE CORDONY – DESIGN WRITER
03. ELODIE HERRERIA – CIRE TRUDON AND NICK SMART – AGENCE DE PARFUM
CIRE TRUDON LAUNCH Prestigious French candle house Cire Trudon’s new Australian partnership with niche fragrance distributor Agence de Parfum was celebrated with design, beauty and lifestyle journalists and bloggers at a long-table, candle-lit dinner at Hotel Centennial in Woollahra. Hosted by the distributor together with PR agency Élysée Collective, and Elodie Herreria – Commercial Director, Cire Trudon - the briefing educated editors on the origins of the world’s oldest and most revered candle house. Showcasing the luxurious candle house, displays of flickering Cire Trudon candles, busts and other signature pieces were styled throughout the space, complemented by gold candelabras and white and pale pink antique roses, grouped together to create a moody, Parisian aesthetic. Throughout the event Elodie took guests on an anecdotal journey from Cire Trudon’s rich heritage, including a short film while drawing on historical touch points that make the house so special and distinguish it. Cire Trudon is renowned for its rich and royal narration, the strength of its legacy and its genuine commitment to quality, with nearly four centuries of expertise in luxury, artisanal candle manufacturing, showcased through historic moments in French history. Founded in 1643, the official Royal Manufacturer to Louis XIV, Louis XVI and Napoléon Bonaparte has been through several political and industrial revolutions during its time including the arrival of electricity, neither of which dimmed the candle maker’s existence. Revived in 2007 and taking the name ‘Cire
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Trudon’, the brand enlists renowned noses to design scents, each conveying a piece of the Cire Trudon and French history, capturing spaces and times reminiscent of strong feelings and powerful imagery. Each candle is still dripped and crafted by hand. Inspired by an in-depth history and fascinating traditions, the candle’s pure and all-natural formulations have transitioned from 100% beeswax to blended wax paste made of vegetable substances, forming a unique blend, miscible with any fragrance, to guarantee the best possible burn and olfactory experience. Available at Agence de Parfum’s retail arm Libertine Parfumerie, as well as other niche perfumeries and boutiques in Australia and New Zealand.
SCRUB UP FOR SCALP CARE Think of your scalp as the earth and your hair as the plant that grows from it. This is the philosophy behind Aveda’s creation of Pramāsana. The third reincarnation of Aveda’s focus on scalp care, the brand believes it is time to deliver a new behaviour of scalp care, Claus Hagenhoff, Aveda’s Senior Technical Education Manger of APAC tells esprit Magazine Australia. “You should cleanse your scalp. Shampoo is for the hair.” Claus was in Sydney and Melbourne running staff training for the launch. In line with the global interest in all things yoga, the name is a hybrid of the Sanskritt words: Prama, meaning foundation and Asana, a yoga position. Inspired by the ancient Indian healing of Ayurveda, the new 96% naturally-derived collection comprises: Exfoliating Scalp Brush ($49.00), Purifying Scalp Cleanser ($49.00, 150ml) and Protective Scalp Concentrate ($62.00, 75ml) (as well as a Nourishing Scalp Masque, available as an insalon treatment only). “Building the foundation to beautiful hair - a clean, healthy scalp - just like your face, your scalp needs cleansing, balancing, and protecting, as it essentially is an extension of your skin,” says Claus. It’s also important to understand it is a system, like a skincare regime. Best effects are gained by following the complete program.
OPI’S FUJI FEELING
MON GUERLAIN
#1 Nail Lacquer brand worldwide, OPI celebrated the launch of its new colour collection inspired by the tranquil seas and soft palm-lined shores of Fiji. Held at Bondi Surf Bathers’ lifesaving club, this celebration included a plethora of beauty and lifestyle media and influencers, mingling around a memorable and theatrical nail buffet showcasing the 12-piece collection. Guests were warmly welcomed by Fijian guitarists, and manicurists were on-site for guests to experience the collection first hand. Anita Kaurinovic, Influencer Marketing Manager for Coty Luxury Australia introduced guests to Mette Engell, General Manager of Coty Luxury Australia. Mette discussed the OPI positioning and the inspiration behind the collection, before introducing two male Fijian dancers performing a traditional Fijian dance, the Meke.
The new fragrance by Guerlain is being introduced to women as her invisible tattoo, her fragrance - Mon Guerlain - my Guerlain. For Thierry Wasser, the fifth Guerlain perfumer, who orchestrated the creation of the new women’s fragrance by the House, it is impossible to define a Guerlain fragrance as a mere formula that unites accords and combines rare raw materials in secret concentrations. “We know every last detail about our jasmine, our sandalwood, our lavender and our vanilla, because we buy our raw materials from men and women we have met and whom I have come to know closely over time. Our sandalwood in Australia, our Carla lavender which grows at an altitude of 1,300 metres in the Provençal Drôme region, our Sambac jasmine in Southern India and our Tahitensis vanilla in Papua New Guinea, there are wonderful people who grow, pick, extract and distil. All of the shared and experienced emotions – from the field to the laboratory – become the notes of Mon Guerlain, a fragrance created for an extraordinary, sincere and authentic woman.” The quadrilobe bottle by Gabriel Guerlain and crafted by Baccarat in 1908 is the showcase of legendary fragrances. The muse is Angelina Jolie. “We always create for a woman we love and admire,” Jacques Guerlain. EdP, spray, 30ml $102.00, 50ml $140.00, EdP, 100ml $205.00, Body Lotion, 200ml $80.00, Shower gel, 200ml $61.00. Available now from Myer, David Jones, Sephora and selected Pharmacy stores. Media met at Chiswick restaurant to hear the news from distributor, Cosmax.
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02. 01. KARMIA MCKIMMIE – SHAMELESS FRIPPERIES, RACHAEL BROOK WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/ THERACHAELBROOK AND CHLOE MORELLO
01. AVEDA’S SOPHIE WALVIN, CLAUS HAGENHOFF WITH ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AND AVEDA’S LAUREN BELCASTRO 48|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
02. METTE ENGELL – GENERAL MANAGER OF COTY LUXURY AUSTRALIA WITH STEPHANIE DARLING – SUNDAY LIFE AND DAILY LIFE
Prestigious British perfume house Floris London celebrated the Australian launch of its collection of perfumes, home fragrances and candles with an intimate media breakfast at Centennial Homestead in Sydney. Australian distributor Agence de Parfums hosted the showcase, attended by editors and influencers. Floris candles, elegant, over-sized glass cloches to showcase the individual collections, and celebrated classics including No.89, White Rose and Bouquet de La Reine were arranged for guests to sample. Agence de Parfum’s Michael Marzano entertained guests with anecdotes from Floris’ rich heritage, drawing on historical touch points that make the house so special. British Family Perfumers since 1730, Floris London is renowned for its timeless quality and exquisite craftsmanship, with an original collection of perfumes, home fragrances and candles. Using their knowledge and building on the expertise passed down over many years, the eighth and ninth generations proudly continue the family’s work in the art of haute perfumery, crafting masterful scents which stand the test of time. With 17 Royal warrants granted to the house since its inception, Floris is the only appointed perfumer to hold warrants from both The Queen and HRH Prince Charles. Among their notable royal scents, they created Bouquet de La Reine in 1840 for Queen Victoria to celebrate her marriage to Prince Albert and the original Wedding Bouquet for Queen Elizabeth for her marriage to the Duke of Edinburgh.
OUT & ABOUT
FLORIS LONDON AUSTRALIAN LAUNCH AT CENTENNIAL HOMESTEAD
With the finesse and rarity of the ingredients used in each meticulous creation distinguishing the house’s signature scents, Floris’s beautifully fragrant scent portfolio comprises four collections: Ladie’s Fine Fragrance, Gentlemen’s Fine Fragrance, Classic Collection and Private Collection. Having established its business at No. 89 Jermyn Street in London, the house still operates from the same but extended premises today nearly three hundred years later. Available at Libertine Parfumerie and niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.
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01. BENJAMIN JUDD – EXECUTIVE STYLE AND CLAYTON ILOLAHIA – WHATMENSSHOULDSMELLLIKE BLOG
02. VICTORIA CAREY AND JULIETTE WINTER – COUNTRY STYLE WITH DAVID NOVAK PIPER – VOGUE LIVING
03. CARLI ALMAN – BEAUTY CREW, ELLEN PRESBURY – RUSSH, ELEANOR PENDLETON – GRITTYPRETTY AND TALISA SUTTON – BADLANDS BLOG
04. MARGARET KHOURY – FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD AND RICKY ALLEN – VOGUE
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05. MICHAEL MARZANO – AGENCE DE PARFUMS/ FLORIS WITH CLAYTON ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |49
KEY SKINCARE TRENDS 01. MASKS
Malouf Pharmacy’s INSIGHTS FROM COSMOPROF ASIA THE TOP TRENDS THAT EMERGED FROM THE BIGGEST BEAUTY TRADE FAIR IN ASIA - ANGELA SHEPHERD, COSMETIC & FRAGRANCE CATEGORY MANAGER - MALOUF PHARMACIES, REPORTS FROM THE SHOW. “In November 2016, I was lucky enough to be able to attend one of the world’s biggest beauty trade fairs in Hong Kong – Cosmoprof Asia. The expo ran for five days across two venues and showcased the products and brands from over 3,000 exhibitors from all around the world. Everything from skincare, cosmetics, beauty equipment etc. was exhibited and it was an unforgettable experience. The exposure to what is happening around the world and key trends in the beauty industry was invaluable. Here are just some of the weird and wonderful trends that emerged. I hope you enjoy reading about some of my take outs from the trip.” ANGELA SHEPHERD - COSMETIC & FRAGRANCE CATEGORY MANAGER, MALOUF PHARMACIES
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There were literally hundreds of suppliers and manufacturers of masks from all over the world. From sheet to silk, mud to Bio Cellulose. There were masks for feet, breasts, neck, chin. Cooling masks, heating masks…the list goes on. This trend was everywhere and this is really evident by the amount of masks sold in beauty outlets across Hong Kong, with most stores devoting entire walls to hundreds of different types of masks.
02. PLANT STEM CELL SKINCARE This is a big breakthrough in the industry with most companies being either Korean or Japanese. These brands believe that the secret to better looking skin lies in the actual stem of the fruit or plant – they believe this is where the life source is.
03. AMPOULE OR VITAMIN SHOT SKINCARE Another big trend that we are starting to see in Australia. Clarins are set to launch a series of Vitamin Boosters which are added to your daily skincare to give it an extra ‘shot’ or ‘boost’.
04. WHITENING & BRIGHTENING The Asian beauty customer is a huge fan of lightening and brightening their skin. From supplements to masks to high-tech creams, this is a HUGE trend overseas. Out of 3,500 exhibitors I did not see ONE exhibit around self tan, but hundreds devoted to the whitening or lightening of skin.
05. CUSHION SKINCARE We have seen the explosion of the cushion foundation trend in Australia, but get set for the cushion skincare trend. Think of it like a BB cream, but with added skincare benefits. These are all over the beauty stores in Hong Kong and come in the cutest packaging.
06. SKINCARE WITH UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS Horse Placenta, Royal Duck Egg Yolk, Birds Nest, Snail Mucus, Sea Horse Oil – these were just some of the unusual ingredients we found (some of which were quite disturbing). But look out for our Timeless Truth Masks, which will have some unusual ingredients of their own (we promise nothing that has harmed an animal at all though). At Malouf, we are not about to start selling skincare made from Sea Horses – I can promise you that!
07. MUD & CHARCOAL This trend is still very much alive and we are very interested in a brand from a village in Korea, which is famous for its natural mud that has healing properties. This mud is so sought after and revered that it has its own Mud Festival every year.
08. UNUSUAL PACKAGING/CONCEPTS I was amazed by two really fantastic products from Korea – a Lychee Washing Bubble which is like a rubber bubble that foams and gives a deep down clean, and a real egging cream mask, which is an overnight mask with the cutest packaging.
09. CRYOTHERAPY What is Cryotherapy I hear you ask? Freezing fat basically and this was absolutely EVERYWHERE.
10. LASER We watched a live demonstration of a lady having her broken capillaries lazered off. It was all very James Bond, but laser is the way of the future for high end beauty. There were literally hundreds of machinery manufacturers at the fair utilising this technology.
11. SKINCARE PACKAGING WITH BLING 02.
High shine, jewel encrusted, metallic etc. You name it, we saw it.
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03. 01. ANGELA SHEPHERD AT COSMOPROF ASIA 02. REAL EGGING PACK – MOISTURISING MASK 03. TIMELESS TRUTH MASKS 04. THE OOZOO LASHES
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The fair was definitely geared more towards skincare, however there were some very innovative brands coming out of the USA, Japan and Korea. The Japanese and Korean brands have very cute packaging, geared to a younger customer and the beauty stores were jam packed with these very cute beauty products. 01. UNUSUAL PACKAGING I saw brow products that looked like magic markers, colour correctors that looked like whipped cream – makeup that was fun and young.
02. USA Very cool new brands are coming out of the USA which are high quality, but really well priced. Malouf Pharmacies is very interested in two brands to be revealed once the deal is done.
03. BRUSHES There were literally thousands of beauty brushes on offer of all different colours and shapes. Keep a look out for these in the near future as we investigate this further. Some of the brushes we saw were mind blowing.
04. BEAUTY BLENDERS Once again, there were literally thousands of different types of beauty blenders. This is a trend that simply won’t go away.
OUT & ABOUT
KEY BEAUTY TRENDS+More
09. REUSABLE 100% COTTON SANITARY NAPKINS This is an emerging trend as Asia becomes more geared towards a holistic lifestyle and improved recycling.
10. SPA Suppliers from Indonesia and Thailand were selling the most beautiful spa products such as milk scrubs, coconut scrubs and much more.
11. PERFUME ATOMISERS Some wonderful designs and shapes and colours.
12. SKINCARE SUPPLEMENTS Vitamins for lightening or brightening the skin, tightening, clearing the skin. There was a supplement for almost every beauty need.
THE POST: THE TOP TRENDS THAT EMERGED FROM THE BIGGEST BEAUTY TRADE FAIR IN ASIA APPEARED FIRST ON MALOUF BLOG.
13. ULTRA-PRESTIGE DENTAL CARE Like ‘Chanel for the teeth’, we saw prestigious dental care products such as ergonomic toothbrushes and diamond dust toothpaste.
“Last but not least, the funniest but most innovative product I saw was a product from the UK called ‘Below the Belt’ which was a range of products for keeping men’s testicles clean and fresh in between showers. Yes you read right! Laugh all you like (and we did), but the more I think about it the more genius it becomes…Will it come to Malouf Pharmacies? Watch this space!”
05. BEAUTY KITS & PALETTES Palettes are having a moment right now, but Australian consumers only see a 10th of what is available internationally. There are so many different options.
06. HENNA BROWS This was probably the most amazing product I saw. Tattooing brows with Henna lasts three weeks and is good for those customers who don’t want to commit to permanent feather touch brows.
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07. LASHES
01. 22 CHOSUNGAH – KOREAN MAKE UP
Lashes are BIG news, with the latest trend being paper lashes in crazy designs. Lash and brow growth serums were also popular.
08. HAIR CARE Very geared towards the balance between salon and high end pharmacy. Hair Masks were also another big trend.
02. SHANGYANG BRUSHES
03. EYEBROW HENNA 01. 02.
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OUT & ABOUT
CERAMIDE MORE OF WHAT YOU LOVE When Elizabeth Arden launched Ceramides in 1990, some customers were wondering when the results would show on their face. The innovative dose-sized capsule was popped down with their morning cuppa…but their skin still looked the same. The skincare’s application method was so innovative, that it needed a little advice to go with it. Don’t eat it Madame…break the seal and apply the contents to your skin, and you will see the results begin in two weeks. The results produced happy customers, very happy customers and the rest is history. Ceramide is one of Elizabeth Arden’s key skincare pillars around the world. Leading the scientific team at the time, former head of R&D, Tony Vargas was responsible for developing the cutting edge technology. When he visited Sydney in 2009, nine years after the original launch esprit chatted with him and found out that talking about Ceramides was one of his favourite subjects. Vargas believes that you can make something really good even better. “We have constantly updated the franchise with the latest technology and continue to do so.” Eight years later and Dr. Dendy Engelman, Elizabeth Arden Consulting Dermatologist is right behind the important benefits of boosting ceramides to promote the fitness of the skin’s lipid barrier. Hence the brand’s focus: Ceramide – more of what you love. Today sees the launch of Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, which the brand bills as ‘Setting the Gold Standard in Skincare, Again’. This clinically and dermatologically tested formula delivers triple the anti-ageing power to enhance skin’s barrier repair function, increase moisturisation within the surface of the skin, and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. A combination of new ingredients and higher levels of existing ingredients work to not only replenish essential, naturally-occurring lipids, but also support skin’s natural renewal 52|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
process. The result is a serum that is clinically proven to take up to 10 years off the look of skin* – for a visibly firmer, smoother, healthy appearance. *Based on a US clinical test of 25 women aged 40-49 at 12 weeks. Advanced Ceramide Anti-Ageing Technology: Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum takes an innovative approach to anti-ageing - helping to moisturise, preserve and strengthen skin’s integrity. Each capsule is biodegradable, fragrance and preservative free, designed to deliver a concentrated dose packed with even more advanced ceramide technology. This lightweight, silky-smooth serum helps to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin and correct the visible signs of ageing by delivering a new and improved blend of ingredients your skin needs to target skin barrier repair, moisturisation, and anti-ageing. To Use: Twist tab twice to open capsule. Smooth serum over cleansed face, neck and décolletage after applying SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster and before moisturising, morning and night. RRP 60 capsules $140.00.
“We at Elizabeth Arden are so excited with how far ceramide technology has come because we have truly pioneered the category for more than 25 years. With that kind of leadership and experience in the field, we felt that we really owed it to our consumers to keep up with the constant influx in research. If there were ways to add to and optimise our existing formula, we were going to do it to give our customers the best and most effective formula we could create for them. Which is how we arrived at Advanced Ceramide Capsules.” MELISSA LYME - MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER, AUSTRALIA
01. ARDEN TEAM: JENNELLE MEYER, SADIE STALEY, MELISSA LYME, CRAIG STEWART, MELISA WOODGATE, MICHELLE WILSON AND STEPHEN GASKETT
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02. SHEREE MUTTON, AUSTRALIAN WOMEN’S WEEKLY AND LAURA WILSON, OK! & NW
03. HAYLEY D’ONOFRIO, INSTYLE AND IANTHA YU, BEAUTY CREW
SELLING CERAMIDES SADIE STALEY - NATIONAL SALES MANAGER “As a market leader in ceramide technology, Elizabeth Arden is now introducing the next generation of capsules: Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum. This clinically and dermatologically tested formula delivers triple the anti-ageing power to enhance skin’s barrier repair function, increase moisturisation within the surface of the skin, and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Our New Advanced Capsules will provide: “Everything that you love”, from the current capsule but with more! To introduce Advanced Ceramide Capsules to our guests, our team has been trained to highlight that the combination of new ingredients and higher levels of existing ingredients work to not only replenish, but now also restore the skin’s natural renewal process. The result is a serum that is clinically proven to take up to 10 years off the look of skin. Each capsule is biodegradable, fragrance and preservative free, meaning Advanced Ceramide Capsules are non-comedogenic and ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The capsules have been designed to deliver a concentrated dose packed with even more advanced ceramide technology. The team has also been trained to consider those customers that are still becoming familiar with the importance of ceramide molecules in our skin. Using the ‘bricks & mortar’ analogy, our team has been trained to educate our guests on ceramides, and how our ceramide levels naturally decline as we get older, which is why our skin becomes thinner, drier and more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. Our team will introduce our guests to the Advanced Ceramide Capsules through demonstration with a full skin consultation.”
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |53
OUT & ABOUT
SISLEY’S NEW WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE – IZIA The launch of Izia women’s fragrance brings a wonderful, exciting new chapter for the brand. This new perfume creation has very much been developed as a work of art, coming to life layer by layer. Isabelle d’Ornano has always been at the heart of the creation of Sisley fragrances - and behind the creation of each Sisley fragrance there is an inspiration or a story. In Isabelle’s words: “Five flowers make a bouquet.” And for this launch, five women came to together to create Izia. Izia is a fragrance that brings together several generations of women. A fragrance designed by women for women. Irene Robinson - General Manager Australia & New Zealand, Sisley tells esprit: “In addition to beautiful rendering of the d’Ornano floral bouquet by renowned perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie, Christine d’Ornano’s passion for art and especially contemporary art, led her to think of English artist, photographer and filmmaker, Quentin Jones, to create a new and different visual identity for this fragrance. Step by step they brought the perfume to life through a unique visual identity.
“Quentin was excited to work on this project. Like the perfume is a new interpretation of the rose, Quentin thought about how to update the romantic side of the rose with a more edgy and surrealist composition. Sonia, a niece of Isabelle d’Ornano, brings an intimacy to the visual campaign by embodying this new fragrance in a very modern, elegant and yet nonchalant way. “We were so excited from day one when we first had the privilege of discovering Izia. It has been love at first scent! Izia is an unexpected, a very modern and new interpretation of a floral perfume. It simply draws you in. The Buying Team from our exclusive department store partner, David Jones, were equally as excited when we met with them to present Izia. They
too fell in love with the concept, the perfume and the very strong and beautiful visual identity. “For our Sisley Beauty Consultants, perfume is a pleasure to share with customers. It involves emotion, imagination and the senses. All of our Beauty Consultants are incredibly motivated to introduce and share Izia with their customers. The fragrance has been developed with a really fresh, luminous and transparent top note, which really captivates on first scent. Recruitment is key to the launch. The brand has developed a comprehensive 360 launch campaign, with more social media assets than ever before. We believe that Izia will appeal to a very broad range of customers and increase our fragrance share with younger consumers. “First launch results from UK, USA and Europe are incredibly positive and we look forward to the same in Australia and New Zealand. We are thrilled that Izia is now in orbit for everyone to discover.”
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01. DEBORAH BIBBY - JONES EDITOR WITH 01.
CHRISTIAAN HOBSON AND SOPHIE KALOFONOS – DAVID JONES
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02. ERIN DOCHERTY AND AIMEE RODRIGUES – COSBEAUTY
03. TASHA CHUA - BLOGGER TEACUPOFMAKEUP AND AMY MAREE COOMBER - BLOGGER
04. IZIA ADVERTISING VISUAL 05. TEAM SISLEY: ZEENIA DASTUR, IRENE ROBINSON, ELLA RAYMOND, JOEY CHANG AND TONIA CASSWELL
06. IZIA ADVERTISING VISUAL 07. DEBORAH BIBBY, STEPHANIE DARLING – BEAUTY
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& LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR SUNDAY LIFE & DAILY LIFE, CLEO GLYDE - BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR STELLAR MAGAZINE, ELISABETH KING – BEAUTY BUSINESS JOURNALIST AND SOPHIE WITH RICKY ALLEN – VOGUE
# LovemyIzia www.sisley-paris.com.au
The new Eau de Parfum ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |55
LIANNA PERDIS
5 minutes with…
FROM LAB COAT TO FRONT COVER OF HARPER’S BAZAAR, NICCI HERRERA TALKS WITH THE 17 YEAR OLD ABOUT TOTAL BAE. Tell us about Total Bae Total Bae is basically Napoleon Perdis and Napoleon Perdis is Total Bae. It’s not its own range, but a collection within Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics. Just like you have the Auto Pilot range, with products like primers, serums and makeup wipes. Total Bae is a part of Napoleon Perdis and it’s more connected with social media, not necessarily for the youth specifically, but it has a youthful factor. Whether you are older, you still want to feel and be youthful. But also at the same time, it’s quick and easy. Basically the idea behind Total Bae…first with the name…my Dad (Napoleon Perdis – head of the family’s cosmetics empire) wanted to call it Total Babe. But on social media, and in our generation you don’t really say babe as much anymore, it’s more bae. My Dad just wanted to add that kind of sense of the younger generation, things that are cool and happening now and on social media. We launched with four SKUs and its slowly evolving and exciting things are happening.
How hands on is Lianna Perdis with Total Bae? Helping create it was a huge process. I had a lot of input…I went into the office a lot. I mean, as a 17 year old, that might sound a little bit weird…but I was going into the office and was working with the manufacturers in Italy and our different labs around the world, which was really cool because we always wanted the best quality makeup, that has the right texture and the right colours. You have to look at all the little details, down to the packaging, down to the way you are going to market it, down to every little part. In one of our eye palettes, we wanted the shadows not to smear and solved that problem! You really need to look at the quality, and even the fact that I wanted the packaging to include a big mirror so you can see yourself and that it’s actually useful.
YOU aren’t just the face, you are in there developing, giving input and guiding the creation of Total Bae how exciting… It is exciting because we are a family business and Total Bae is extending on to the younger generations coming up. The women that originally started off with my father and buying Napoleon Perdis are now in their 40s or their 50s and bringing in their own younger generation as well to the family. Being a part of the range and generally across Napoleon Perdis. Working with my parents is really cool. Not only having my face on the ads,
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but also having input in the products that we are promoting in the ads, I think is really cool. It kind of adds a different dimension because I don’t really know any other people that are doing that right now in companies.
I have known and used Napoleon Perdis makeup for a long, long time. It is one of the first professional ranges we had in the salon I worked at…today it has literally reinvented itself. And that’s what my Dad is all about. He is kind of a bit crazy sometimes and I know that. He is a strict father too, but creative wise and as a business man, he always likes to reinvent himself. He always wants the customer to be interested, otherwise it gets boring and the same thing. Total Bae adds that kind of edge to the brand.
How did the Total Bae conversation start? Ever since we were little, my parents (Mother Soula-Marie is COO of Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics) had always come home and talked about work or brought home products. As little girls, we were like “ohhhh makeup!” (Lianna has triplet, younger sisters). But we would actually give input as well. It was getting to the point where we wanted this, this and this. I wanted a foundation that does this. I want eyeshadows that do that. I want a lip gloss that does this. We thought about it and we decided
How long was the process from that conversation to launch? A couple of years. In makeup you plan for a year or two, or even more, before you see it on shelves. I really love working with product development; my Mum is the head of new product development. They work on things that are going to be launching in 2018 or 2019. So there is a whole calendar that needs to be thought out. At the same time, there are things that happen at the last minute. Like you see new technology when you go to the labs that you want to bring in faster.
Identifying with young girls who enter the industry, what advice would you give them? If you really want it and you are really passionate about it, go for it. If you never try, you’ll never know. That’s just generally with anything in life, if you never try or at least attempt to do something, you’ll always be thinking in the back of your mind as you get older: ‘Why didn’t I do that? I’m not happy doing what I am doing now. If I had actually pursued something that I was really interested in, things may be different’.
Do you have any role models or people that you have looked up to, outside of your family, that have helped contribute to your thoughts or ideas of who you want to be or where you want to go? That’s a good question. I can’t specify one person that I see and say, I want to do that, I want to be like that. It’s different ideas, different influences and many different people that I’ve seen growing up. I don’t idolise one person - I get that question a lot, who is your idol, like fashion idol, beauty idol? I don’t really look at one person and think that person is perfect and I need to do everything that person does because I am my own person, I am Lianna Perdis. I am my own person.
Do you feel that being Napoleon Perdis’ daughter, the pressure is stronger or there is more focus on you to be successful?
INTERVIEW
to create a little range. So it’s not just me, my sisters also had input in Total Bae, but me more so because I’m a bit older, they’re two years younger. But that’s how it came along, it was kind of gradual.
No, I don’t really feel much pressure. My parents always tell me even in school and grades, as long as you try your best, that’s okay. That’s really good advice, because I have some friends who are like “dammit, a B+! Damn me, I suck!” I’m like, I got a B+ but I studied all night and I think that’s great and I will accept that. I think as long you try your best in something, that’s all you can really do. You aren’t always going to be A+ in everything.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I definitely want to go to uni. I want to pursue my modelling career, and I also do want to help within the Napoleon Perdis business. I don’t have a specific plan of exactly what I’ll be doing in five years because I want to see what my opportunities are as they come. You never know in life, you can never predict the future. One of my philosophies, is that you should live in the now, you should think about the future as well, but I’m not sure what the future holds.
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HOT BUTTON ISSUE
by Elisabeth King
According to US research, today’s three year olds can correctly identify more than 100 brands. Capturing the attention of consumers and retaining their loyalty has never been more difficult. Whatever their age, the one-size-fits all approach no longer works. Any beauty brand that treats consumers like everyone else will fail at the first hurdle. To gain true brand loyalty, brands need to interact with consumers over seven key areas - technology, spending habits, entertainment, health and fitness, relationships, education and politics/ environmental views. Overselling and condescension has had its day. Interaction, clever campaigns, quirkiness and personal service is the way to reach today’s new breed of consumers.
Achieving Cut-Through With such a saturated market, fierce competition between existing brands and the entry of so many new brands, consumers are faced with retail walls and online stores offering near-identical offers in innovation and price, says Monique Smith, Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ. “However, if
MONIQUE SMITH Marketing Director, Coty Consumer Beauty ANZ
just one of those brands makes an effort to engage with a consumer in a meaningful and memorable way, it makes the first part of choosing the right foundation or mascara a lot easier. It’s like going to a party with a crowd of people you don’t know well. You always gravitate towards a person you’ve met before, who has been nice and shown interest in you. 58|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
It’s the same with a brand trying to create brand love, which leads to loyalty and repeat purchases with the brand”. Developing a meaningful relationship with consumers in a more personal and real way through live brand experiences is a key focus for our brands in building loyalty, adds Smith. “We connect with our audience by seeking partnership and activation opportunities that tap into their key passion points. For key brands in our portfolio across cosmetics, fragrance and hair, we have live brand experience strategies in place with the aim of seeking 1000 more people that love us to over 10,000 people who just like us. Brand love is the key to loyalty”. Rimmel recently partnered with AmplifyLive, a youth platform that connects teens with their favourite YouTubers, says Smith. “It aligned with the values of the brand in celebrating individual expression over perfection, a message that enables these YouTube sensations to connect with millions of followers. By creating unique opportunities for these passionate teens to meet their heroes, by being there with makeup touch-ups so they looked their best for meet-and-greet photoopportunities and creating meaningful and relevant content with the YouTube stars and more, Rimmel was literally at every touchpoint. I can confidently say that the 8000 teens we touched across Australia will always remember that Rimmel was part of one of the best days of their lives”. We have also partnered with the Splendour in the Grass & Falls Festival in Byron Bay, connecting with teens through their passion for music, notes Smith. We are truly living in the era of the empowered customer, says Corina Pantelos, Brand Manager, philosophy skincare. “With so many choices and ways to connect on and offline - companies and brands need
C O R I N A PA N T E LO S Brand Manager, philosophy skincare
to provide meaningful value that exceeds customers’ expectations. As a wellbeing beauty brand which combines science and inspiration, philosophy strives to deliver a memorable experience at every touchpoint. Whether it is a tailored skin consultation at one of our counters, a curated e-newsletter delivering educational how-tos, a media sendout or a beautifully styled social media post, philosophy aims to deliver service, education and inspiration”. Customisation and personalisation are popular buzz words, but by delivering exceptional bespoke service and brand engagement to customers, brands can cater to the wants and needs of individuals more effectively, adds Pantelos. “Asking customers for feedback and insights through in-store encounters or through Facebook community management allows brands to stay in touch with what customers really desire and expect of the brand in real time. To earn customer loyalty, improving the customer experience must remain top of mind in every interaction”.
Reward Them and They Will Come Sampling and ‘must-have’ GWPs are key initiatives Trilogy has successfully established in Australia to build new and existing customer loyalty, says Louise Clayton, Trilogy National Products Brand General Manager. “We like to call it Trilogy Love. We know from years of feedback that once people try our products, they are highly likely to purchase them. We usually conduct two
LO U I S E C L AY TO N National Products Brand General Manager, Trilogy
and educate retail employees. A mix of userfriendly product and brand learning, it is a great asset to help retail staff assist potential and existing Trilogy customers with personal and professional advice”. Discover Trilogy’s Power was the largest campaign we initiated in-store and online in 2016, notes Clayton. “We released sample packs containing three deluxe minis as part of an integrated in-store, outdoor, print and digital campaign. Store participation and customer response was huge, with over 20,000 packs sampled by new and existing Trilogy fans through online channels and 70 in-store events. The campaign generated a 21 per cent increase in sales in the following months. We also saw a significant increase in social media activity and engagement, customer enquiries and solid media coverage throughout the duration of the campaign”. The Red Door Experience is at the heart of Elizabeth Arden’s exceptional customer experience, says Michelle Wilson, Brand Manager. “It’s the ultimate in-store getaway, where science and expertise partner with pampering and experiential spa heritage. We are able to create in-store activations and deliver a personalised experience to strengthen and build brand loyalty”. The Red Door Speed Services are wonderful for women on the run, says Wilson. “A range of 10 minute beauty treatments which we offer on a complimentary basis at select counters. There’s the Oxygen Beauty Blast, a spa refresher based on an exclusive oxygen mineral serum.
MICHELLE WILSON Brand Manager, Elizabeth Arden
The Eyes Have It refreshes the eyes with a gel patch treatment followed by Prevage Anti-Aging Eye Serum and Beautiful Color Bold Defining 24HR Liquid Eye Liner. The two other popular 10 minute services are Lady Liperty, a lip facial, and Pampered Hands Treatment to exfoliate, moisturise and hydrate the hands”.
We also have a full facial menu in a private room setting inspired by the iconic Red Door spa in New York, adds Wilson. “Customers can choose from the Ultimate Facial, AntiAging Facial and Oxygen Facial, ranging from 75 to 90 minutes and priced between $65 and $85. The booking fees are redeemable on the purchase of two to three Elizabeth Arden skincare products. Off counter VIP events also offer exclusive experiences to our regular customers”. Living in a digital age, we are acutely aware that customers can access so many different channels to discover the latest makeup trends and tutorials and, more importantly, purchase products without the need to visit department stores, says Gemma Rogers, Estée Lauder Education Manager for NSW. “This means that for all our brands, we must echo Estee Lauder’s pioneering spirit. Constantly seeking alternative ways to engage face-to-face with each customer and create memorable experiences for them to build a loyal customer base. At Estée Lauder, we do this in several ways. We know that customers want fun, curated editing of their favourite products and girlfriend advice. Our beauty advisors are trained to deliver on each of these factors, as opposed to a more ‘prescriptive’ way of selling. We also focus on trends, quick product
GEMMA ROGERS Education Manager for NSW, Estée Lauder
sound bites and tutorials in the training process, so that our beauty advisors are using the same language that customers are used to seeing online. Social media and all it offers is so important to customers today. But we believe our beauty advisors to be the greatest influencers across social media channels and actively encourage their participation with their own personal hashtag”. In-store, our counter teams are empowered to create loyalty by keeping in touch with VIP customers for offers of facials and makeup events, adds Rogers. “We also focus on key recruitment drivers such as Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup. Estée Lauder offers a complimentary 10 day supply to all customers, for example, and makes contact with new customers after the sampling period. Other successful ways to build loyalty include our 3 Minute Beauty makeup tips, Digital iMatch foundation and colour finder, Re-Nutriv luxury services and focusing on the latest makeup trends”. Tom Ford customers are highly knowledgeable about the life and work of Mr. Ford and his desire to create the first true luxury brand of the 21st century, adds Rogers. “With that in mind, our Tom Ford Specialists
With so many choices and ways to connect - on and offline companies and brands need to provide meaningful value that exceeds customers’ expectations CO RINA PANT ELOS , B RAND MANAGER , P H ILOSO P H Y SK INCARE
HOT BUTTON ISSUE
mass sampling campaigns a year, supported by a number of smaller, more targeted activities”. To create hype and drive brand visibility, each initiative is accompanied by a PR and advertising campaign combined with great customer service - online and in-store, says Clayton. “In February this year, we launched the Trilogy E-Learning platform to support
are trained to offer a luxurious, bespoke service that meets their expectations. Using Mr. Ford’s inspirations to tell stories, our specialists don’t just describe fragrance notes. Our team is largely made up of fragrance connoisseurs and they build great relationships by knowing top customers by name and their olfactive preferences”. For the select counters that carry Tom Ford makeup, our beauty advisors educate customers about Mr. Ford’s concept of makeup and show them exactly how to use the products, says Rogers. “Whatever customers buy, our counter teams stay in touch through their database and invite them in-store for makeup or fragrance events or specific product launches.”
Service, Service, Service At Ultraceuticals, we place exceptional emphasis on the value of service standards, education and the ethical prescription of solutions and products to build long-term customer relationships, says George Gougoulis, Events & Education Executive. “We strive for a new level of client liaison excellence, especially around relational marketing. One of the most effective ways is to listen to what customers have to say. Conducting focus groups and surveys is a long-term strategy to continually develop business and drive clinics and salons to a new level”. To encourage customers to take part in surveys, we offer them a voucher incentive for their next treatment or a trial kit, says Gougoulis. “In our experience, Ultraceuticals has found that clients and guests become even more devoted to the business when their opinion is sought. We not only host VIP shopping nights, but tie these in with a product launch or guest speaker. “By offering engaging presenters to key clinics and salons, we have paved a new ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |59
direction and dimension of service excellence. International skin care experts, combined with our Global Education Ambassador provide a highly informative and engaging workshop scenario. This encourages interaction from guests, and builds more credibility and buzz to cement loyalty. Attendees will often request to bring friends after experiencing their first workshop, so it’s a great way to recruit new guests and clientele to the business”. Competitions are also a great way to build loyalty, says Gougoulis. “Something as simple as offering a treatment or the latest must-have products from the Ultraceuticals range. We also help to educate and coach staff at our valued clinics and salons, not only on the value of exceptional consultation skills but through targeted retail training”. At Jurlique, we like to ensure that no customer leaves empty-handed, says Anya Badu, National Retail & Education Manager. “Every customer who has been provided with skin care advice by a beauty expert receives two or three skincare samples, as well as a sachet of a Jurlique bestseller such as Rose Hand Cream. Appropriate brochures are also provided and a follow-up call or email is scheduled a week or so later”. Staying connected with our customers helps Jurlique to provide on-going advice and recommendations, in addition to providing VIP clients with the excellent service they expect, says Badu. “The follow-up calls allow our beauty experts to answer any additional questions and confirm that chosen products and samples are providing the desired results. Four weeks after an initial consultation, we make contact again to see if customers would like a professional treatment or 1:1 workshop in-store. We then ensure we stay in touch every three months to assist with replenishment, update recommendations and keep VIPs informed of special events and new launches”. One of our most popular special events is a Jurlique Masterclass, adds Badu. “Hosted by a Jurlique ambassador, the day or evening in-store workshops guide small groups of customers through applying a complete Jurlique ritual to their skin. We keep things fun and informative and customers leave with radiant skin and a complimentary gift”. Meaningful engagement with consumers that leads to customer loyalty is imperative
L AU R E N B E L CA S T R O Marketing & Communications Manager, Aveda Australia
to drive any brand forward, says Lauren Belcastro, Aveda Australia Marketing & Communications Manager. “Driving loyalty is part of Aveda’s DNA and is visible in 60|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
every part of our 360 degree service cycle. From the tea we offer guests when welcoming them into stores to the hand-written invitation cards given out at the end of a visit and contacting customers for special events and offers”. Providing a consistent and authentic experience across all distribution channels is the foundation for customer engagement, notes Belcastro. “One of the key drivers for accelerating retention rate centres on delivering relevant content at the right time and in the right format, so we can be more than just a product company. We call our customers guests and we aim to be their go-to for any styling woes, tips, tricks and the latest trends”. Aveda’s global birthday program offers guests who share their birthday and contact information a $23 value customisable composition oil for their birthday, says Rachael Ostrom, Executive Director, Aveda Global Consumer Engagement. “We know guests with a birthday on file spend
RACHAEL OSTROM Executive Director, Aveda Global Consumer Engagement
50 per cent more annually than guests who do not have a birthday on file. Our VIP programs offer all international markets resources and eventing guides for quarterly offers and events. VIP guests are invited to exclusive events with lifestyle tips and wellness sessions”. It is key to the success of a brand to build customer loyalty, especially in such a competitive retail market, says Julie Chan, Retail Marketing Manager, L’Occitane Australia. “These days a lot of customers are
JULIE CHAN Retail Marketing Manager, L’Occitane Australia
more cautious. They are less willing to part with hard-earned money unless they feel loyalty to a brand. A lot of our customers return because they feel connected to L’Occitane. They love the in-store service and we always strive to listen to their concerns and provide the best advice and care’. In-store we aim to truly engage customers and some become almost our friends, adds Chan. “We keep in touch with them by phone if they prefer, rather than by email. But many customers prefer to be contacted by EDM or email to hear about offers, events and VIP parties. We regularly run offers to introduce new products or ranges and GWPs and PWPs. In addition to VIP events, we also event in-store
and online for occasions such as Mother’s Day, Bastille Day and Christmas. We have had a lot of success with the Vogue Fashion Night Out promotion, which has drawn new customers to the brand”. L’Occitane also has a loyalty program called Passport to Provence, says Chan. “Customers can sign up in-store or online. It allows members to access special offers, discounts, pre-orders of new launches and wish lists”.
True Engagement Building loyalty is key to Benefit’s main
BETH GLANCEY General Manager, Benefit Australia
strategy, says Beth Glancey, General Manager Australia. “We communicate with targeted customers based on purchasing habit datas. We also encourage repeat purchases by providing them with targeted rewards that offer value, surprise and delight”. Benefit also participate in the loyalty programs of retailers, adds Glancey. “We offer exclusive product pre-launches, complimentary services for birthdays, in-store events for key launches, samples and GWPs to reward Myer ONE and Sephora Beauty Pass members”. One of the main factors in La Prairie’s success is the strong relationships we have with our loyal customers who shop across all of our main channels of distribution, says Ai San Beaumont, Regional Marketing and Public Relations Manager ANZ.
A I SA N B E AU M O N T Regional Marketing and Public Relations Manager ANZ, La Prairie
“Exceptional service and an authentic desire to get to know our customers is critical for longterm engagement. The first step in the process is the model we call Diamond Service, which guarantees that customers receive consistent and exceptional service wherever they choose to shop. The thorough consultation process, combined with subtle body language and active listening provides an environment where genuine rapport is achieved.” The training of our consultants is crucial to the loyalty of our customers, says Beaumont. “La Prairie invests heavily in developing service experts. But customers should also develop a strong relationship with the brand itself. This is achieved through targeted and relevant opportunities to return, particularly with specific promotions that suit individual needs. Following their first purchase, customers
are contacted to ensure that the products are delivering the expected results. From lunches and workshops to facials and VIP events, we organise activities that suit customer needs and preferences. Excellent service, recognition as a valued customer and rapport with consultants are all key elements in building genuine loyalty”. Brand loyalty is pivotal to ongoing acceleration and the long-term success of Sisley’s business, says Tonia Casswell, Sales and Training Manager ANZ. “High customer care is a prerequisite for a prestige
TO N I A CA S SW E L L Sales and Training Manager ANZ, Sisley
brand like Sisley. Service that exceeds expectations - from the initial contact to the on-going development of a longterm relationship. Consultation focusing on product knowledge, counter demonstration and beauty room services help to gain a customer’s commitment to repeat visits, allowing more opportunities to introduce more solutions to satisfy individual needs”. VIP initiatives are also an important part of the equation, says Caswell. “Repeat purchases are rewarded with a tiered rewards program, encouraging multiple purchases. Data from Gallup reports that only 13 per cent of employees are actively engaged at work. So we invest strongly in improving the commitment and loyalty of our teams. As leadership guru John Maxwell says - Tend to the people and they will tend to the business. Team is always first at Sisley. Without commitment and passion from our teams, the most effective sales methodologies and customer loyalty programs with fail”. At Bobbi Brown, our customer relationship management program ensures that our content is targeted and resonates with user groups for high level engagement, click-through and conversion, says Astrid Proia, Marketing and Sales Coordinator. “By utilising
ASTRID PROIA Marketing and Sales Coordinator, Bobbi Brown
audience segmentation strategies through the customer journey and implementing various messaging from welcome through to product launch cycles, we’ve been able to improve retention and increase re-purchase rates”. These initiatives enable the brand to build and maintain customer loyalty, while eliciting the required response such as driving the
consumer in-store or to our e-commerce business, notes Proia. “We build in callsto-action in our campaigns such as deluxe sampling, GWPs, events and one-off offers, which are used strategically to drive relevant product franchises, reward key customer segments and support pre-lapsed customer initiatives”. Building customer loyalty provides a robust database of dedicated customers who enjoy purchasing and hearing from Crabtree & Evelyn, says Vicky Kalofolias, National Brand Manager. “It’s important for customers to feel important and known to their favourite brands. Rewarding our most loyal and top spenders often transforms customers into brand ambassadors with organic reach. From our standpoint, we gain quality feedback from key demographics.” Crabtree & Evelyn have introduced several successful initiatives in creating customer loyalty, says Kalofolias. “One of the most popular is our National Shopping Events for important shopping periods such as Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Valentine’s Day and Christmas. We also host intimate VIP customer events in our flagship stores. Early reviews of new collections and access to unique promotions and offers also reward loyal and familiar faces”.
Be Different Customer loyalty is an integral driver of the TBX (The Beauty Exchange) brand because it’s all about tapping into the desire to own the whole collection, says Emma Little, TBX Brand Manager. “The product itself
EMMA LITTLE Brand Manager, TBX
encourages brand loyalty because of the unique nature of the magnetic makeup brushes and storage solutions that can’t be used with other brush brands. Once the customer is aware of the many benefits of magnetic brushes, they keep coming back for more. We remind them of the standout benefits of the brand at every touchpoint - from advertising through in-store communication, PR, social media and online”. To drive loyalty at point of sale, in-store makeup demonstrations have been highly successful, says Little. “Customers love to see the product in action and they provide an opportunity to interact and encourage brand loyalty on an individual basis”. TBX’s PR and social initiatives are heavily focused on building brand awareness and loyalty where our consumers are spending most of their time - online and on Instagram - says
VIV HENDERSON PR Manager, TBX
Viv Henderson, TBX PR Manager. “We began an initiative called The Clique named for our hero product - the magnetic brushholder frame. With Instagram as the content platform and a great communication strategy, we have fostered relationships with countless influencers that are posting regular content for
CHARMAINE PICHLER Market Manager, Weleda Australia
TBX. The Clique program has driven over 1.3 million impressions and tens of thousands of likes - all in a few months. We love The Clique and we work with influencers to build brand awareness and loyalty.” Creating brand loyalty is a tricky business in today’s market says Charmaine Pichler, Marketing Manager, Weleda Australia. “The Internet has given consumers more flexibility to research and buy anywhere at any time they want. Few customers stay loyal to a brand and why should they with so much choice. Fortunately, because Weleda has been around since 1921, many of our customers are ‘brand lovers’. We are also seeing a steady increase in new customers, in addition to a loyal base of customers who have been with us for many years. Weleda builds loyalty in six major ways, adds Pichler. “High quality is paramount for Weleda and consumers love the fact that we control the whole supply chain right down to the field or tree the ingredients come from. Greenwashing is all too common in the beauty world and we reassure the consumer they are getting the real deal. We are members of leading organic certification organisations such as NATRUE and our initiatives in biodiversity and sustainability are consistently woven through our communication with consumers”. “We stay relevant though innovations such as our Evening Primrose skincare aimed at women aged 50-plus and Tinted Lip Care for teens and 20-somethings. We also partner with bloggers, editors, writers and brand ambassadors who not only recommend our products, they also help to tell our story. We take customer feedback very seriously. There’s nothing worse than writing a comment on Facebook and not receiving a reply. Fast responses, personal interaction and the occasional ‘surprise’ gift can turn a negative experience into a positive one - and continued longterm loyalty”. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |61
Want to know exactly where your products are going? Authenticate can tell you just that! Authenticateit is an international company with HQ in Melbourne Australia created by a team of experts in intellectual property, trademark protection, retail, media broadcasting, e-commerce, logistics and IT. Alarmed by the growing sophistication of counterfeiters in legitimate retail situations, coupled with the burgeoning problems in online retail, the team developed Authenticateit to provide consumers and brands greater protection from the threat of illegal and unauthorised imports. With this success the offering has evolved and Authenticateit has launched Product 360, a brand marketing tool with direct contact with consumers. The team has extensive experience working in Eastern Europe, Asia, North America and Australasia and added countless hours to research to develop the Authenticateit platform. The result is a complete, effectively foolproof modular system that is simple to use!
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62|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
BRAND PROTECTION Authenticateit is a complete track and trace system that can be integrated with your existing distribution and stock control procedures. This clever technology will detect any anomalies in the supply chain and allow you to take immediate action to bar, disable or neutralise unauthorised imports or counterfeit operations at the source.
DETER UNAUTHORISED DISTRIBUTION & COUNTERFEITERS Track your products at every point in the supply chain to help manage and regain control of distribution rights. You’ll also be alerted of any counterfeiting behaviour to help prevent pirates from undercutting your profits.
ADDITIONAL BORDER SECURITY Integration with World Customs Organisations enables customs officers to scan and verify Authenticateit partner brands’ products moving through customs. This acts as an additional security measure for members of WCO.
CONSUMER PROTECTION & PRODUCT SAFETY BRAND MARKETING TOOL Consumers can use the Authenticateit and soon to come SHPING App (shping.com) to validate the authenticity of products of subscribed brands. Additionally, Authenticateit delivers relevant product recall advice about individual items.
BRAND MARKETING MODULE - PRODUCT 360 Product 360 (authenticateit.com/marketing) A cloud-based marketing platform that maps products from the supply chain to the shopping basket. Brands can provide consumers with relevant product information at the critical point of purchase, influencing consumer purchasing behaviour.
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ADDITIONAL PRODUCT INFORMATION Product 360 offers consumers additional information and promotional material at the most critical time in the buying process – the point of purchase.
SINGLE BARCODE APPROACH Product 360 works with a single barcode that adheres to GS1 global-standards. The same barcode scanned at the point is a most marketing tool brands ever had.
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ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |63
IT’S ALL ABOUT MAKEUP ARTISTS AT
M.A.C is collaborating in 2017 with three talented internationally renowned makeup masters to create the Makeup Art Cosmetics Collection – Diane Kendall, Kabuki and James Kaliardos. James was in Sydney recently and esprit had a natter with him. The brand has also revealed its SSTrends with a demonstration by Senior Artists based in Sydney: Carol Mackie and Nicole Thompson.
M.A.C
First up... James Kaliardos @jameskaliardos
Q
You are a high profile makeup artist. Share with us the highlights of your career
I do a lot of editorial and runway. I’ve worked with runway, everywhere from Balenciaga to Chanel, to Hermes and Jean Paul Gaultier, Rodarte sisters and Calvin. Also Versace. I’ve worked with a lot of different people and that’s really fun. M.A.C has actually supported me in most of their shows with a team and products for years and years, since as early as I can remember, which has been great. It has been a great way to really know the company inside and out, and all the products. Designers are so specific, they are like “I want that orange!” You know you can always make it with M.A.C.
Q
o is that where your collaboration S has come from? Working with designers that want specific colours?
Well I went to James Gager, who is Creative Director of M.A.C with a makeup idea to do a collection for him, which he didn’t really like. But he came up with something else. I have this company called Visionaire which is an art and fashion publication and we do public art, installations and films. So I came to him with a Visionaire idea. But he was like, it makes more sense to do a James Gager idea, why don’t we do you and two other makeup artists and we will sort of have a Makeup Masters collection. So that’s how it was born, but it makes sense – I’ve always collected M.A.C and I’ve always used it. So ever since I started my career in the early 90s, M.A.C’s been there. The original owners of M.A.C actually gave me $100 to credit them and they would give me products, back in the day. So it’s a kind of nice synergistic thing, but what I thought I would do for this collection is do a paired down kit. Almost all the time, I do a basic James face, sculpting out 64|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
the face a little bit, just to bring out the shape and the bones of the face, then emphasise the lips or emphasise the eyes. I always thought about doing a collection. I just wanted to do something that is really helpful to women because I think makeup can be used as a tool to feel better. It can’t cure cancer, but it can empower a woman to feel confident and face the world. Some women don’t really know how to do that. I’m giving them all the tools that they can use to present themselves, however they want, to the world. They are easy-to-use things that they can make a choice about. I think having that choice and using your own artistry and creativity when you are doing your makeup, is a really healing, beautiful, private thing that only women do.
Q
How hands-on were you with creating this range?
I met with the M.A.C team who developed the products – they’re so fantastic. I brought in all my favourites...for instance, there’s a shade of lipstick called ‘Paramount’, which is an old M.A.C shade that all my girlfriends used to use. Everyone used to wear this brown lipstick. I’ve added a little bit of wine to it because I thought, though brown still works, I thought it would be a little more attractive with a little wine through it. So I took old products that I had, and kind of re-invented some of them. But we really started from scratch. M.A.C has done this kit before for another collection, and I thought it was so smart to have three colours all in one. I wanted to do a kit – it just takes the guessing game out of what blush, what eyeliner, what contour and stuff like that. I also wanted to deal with two skin tones. So we have a dark, chic palette and a light version.
Q
hat’s the best advice you can W give to up and coming makeup artists?
I did makeup on everyone from my mother, my friends, my girlfriends, plays I was in, photos - I started taking photos myself and then I found photographers that needed work. I did people going out to clubs and older women and younger women. I was always doing it and it just led to a career. I never really assisted anyone or had to go to school or anything. So I think just wanting to do something and then just keep doing it. That way it will lead to you doing it more and people will want to help you continue doing it. If it’s just a pipe dream and you are not actually putting in action to the dream, it’s hard for people to help you.
Spring/Summer Trends M.A.C Senior Artists Carol Mackie - @carol_mackie and Nichol Thompson - @pinkiiieee demonstrated key trends for the Spring/ Summer 2017 season, to beauty media.
REAL – an unfiltered realism to beauty that lives and breathes as women wear it. Worn-in and enhancing, never heavy.
James Kaliardos There are some brush suggestions in the kit too. Then there is a red lip and two paler shades; one is peachy because I used to work a lot with Richard Avedon, the photographer and he always said “can you add a little bit of peach to the lip?” We used to do a lot of beige lips, pure beige which of course has never taken off in the real world. He would always say to add a little peach because it would just bring some life into it. And it would really work. There’s a ‘my lip’ sort of tone, just a natural lip tone colour. They look good on all skin tones. Surprisingly, even on dark skin tones. There are four eye shadow colours. Two are sparkly - just fun. Part of the job of doing makeup I think, is that it is creative and you want a little fun too, it’s not totally serious. I did two lip glosses. The eye shadows are a matte grey and a matte brown and you can use them wet or dry. They are
really quite dense, so you can use your finger to put it on, or of course you can brush it on, or you can use it as a liner. I thought it was a lot more interesting than black. It’s hard just to put black eye shadow on, yet you want to deepen your eye or emphasise it.
FREE – liberal adornment of stamps and slashes of impressionist colour – energetic and refreshingly unconventional.
WET – the visceral beauty of wet gloss – from sweat to humidity there’s still the fascination of how light fits and flatterers a face. Here it’s explored as a texture from vinyl shine to emollient sheen.
WARM – a palette drawn from the heat of the environment: sun, beach, petals, terracotta crystals and the earth. Worn simply to be modern.
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The Benefits of a Multi-Tasker!
By Michael Brown www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au
Retail has changed so much over the years, especially in Beauty… Once upon a time, the consumer relied solely on the knowledge of the Beauty Advisor and/or Makeup Artist to deliver up to date or even just basic application techniques. Makeup seemed difficult to apply and was really only for the confident woman, or one that had an experience with a beauty consultant to at least get looking half decent. Today, the consumer has so much knowledge… They already have basic application knowledge and a look in mind they are going for. Awareness is heavily pumped to us via social media and digital sites showcasing endless beauty looks and products and often application advice. Because of this, consumers shop smarter. They might be selective – because they now know, they don’t need, or won’t use half of the products that used to be sold to them – but they purchase key items that help them build/create the look they like. B E AU T Y A DV I S O R VS C O N S U M E R
What does that mean for the Beauty Advisor? Sell with your ears, not with the consumer’s wallet in mind. We must listen to key concerns and needs, rather than thinking only about the potential dollar value. I remember an old trainer of mine, very early on in my career, saying: “The more product you show the customer, the more they will buy”. Just keep link selling until they say stop, basically…Can you imagine that today?
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Beauty retail today is much more about direct questions, rather than the old school makeover style of selling, with no education and ‘just make me look beautiful’, which they then cannot re-create themselves at home. Women of today don’t want to look down after a makeup session and see a stack of products in front of them…it’s confusing, looks expensive and seems way too hard for the time-poor. They would rather see 5-6 key products that get them through the day and then could be altered for nightwear. W H AT T O D O
A true makeup artist has been multi-tasking for years, aka ‘customising’. Mixing products, textures and shades together to make a new look to products and using a single product, on other areas of the face to get more use out of it. By doing this you are gaining value for money and less weight in your makeup bag – It’s a win win! If you can cover all of your customer’s concerns/needs by listening, then prescribe her key products with added benefits, like being used on other areas of the face, you gain trust and sales are instant. She too will feel like a makeup artist, her costs are lower, but she’ll buy more in one purchase, as it seems so achievable. You also want return business; so don’t give all your secrets away in one session.
HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF U S I N G M A K E U P A S M U LT I -TA S K E R S I L LU M I N AT O R
Use on highlight points under foundation for instant glow and a more realistic skin look, as well as using it over foundation. BRONZER
All over face glow, under cheekbone contour and shade tone/base for eye lid/socket. WA R M T O N E B LU S H
Peach is big right now, use your peach blush as a mobile eyelid pop. TAU P E E Y E S H A D OW
This tone is the best base shade for eyes, but can be great (if matte) as an eyebrow powder. CREAM LIPSTICK
Perfect for lips as well as a cream blush. S O F T M E TA L L I C E Y E S H A D OW
(loose or compact) Perfect in a light shade for highlighting. SOFT PENCIL EYELINERS
(and Gel Pot Eyeliners) Great to add strong definition to the outer lash line, but also a great smokey eye when smudged and blended in. LIP LINER
When in nude/brown tones, perfect for a very soft, natural eye definer or blended smokey look. Have fun, be creative and don’t take your customers for a ride, they are smarter about today’s world of beauty!
S W E E T PA R T N E R S H I P T O S AV E T H E B E E S
Burt’s Bees teams up with Taronga zoo TA R O N G A Z O O I S A B U Z Z A S I T T E A M S U P W I T H B U R T ’ S B E E S O N A N E W C O N S E RVAT I O N & E D U C AT I O N P R O G R A M T O S U P P O R T B E E P O P U L AT I O N S .
Joining forces with Taronga Zoo as part of a three year partnership, a special Bee Exhibit educating guests about bee conservation and the importance of bees to the environment has just opened at Sydney’s harbour side zoo. Burt’s Bees spokesperson, Simon Durrant, General Manager ANZ region says the partnership is part of Burt’s Bees’ strong stance on supporting bee health. “Bees have been critical to the success of Burt’s Bees. Now it’s time for us to continue to support bees and their ongoing quest for survival. “Burt’s Bees is proud to be a Champion sponsor of Taronga and ‘true champion of the bees’. A world without bees is unimaginable and we’re committed to supporting our buzzing friends. This partnership is just one of many global projects that Burt’s Bees supports. We are working quickly with conservationists to understand why some of the world’s bee species are now under threat and how else we can help,” Simon Durrant says. The newly installed hive has custom designed observation windows providing guests with a lateral view into the hive of bee activity. Taronga Zoo Precinct Manager, Visitor Education and Animal Experience Manager, Elle Bombonato said keepers will closely monitor and inspect the hive to ensure that the bees are healthy and thriving. “The hive will provide our guests with the opportunity to get up close and appreciate the complex and fascinating inner workings of a bee colony. We want to inspire our guests to go home and plant bee friendly flowers. “Bees are vital to nature and a healthy ecosystem. Taronga acknowledges that bee populations face many challenges including pesticides, habitat removal and pests like the Verroa mite. The good news is that people at home can be part of the bee saving campaign,” says Elle Bombonato. “One way to make a significant impact is to plant flowering plants which attract bees to the garden. Avoiding use of chemical insecticides can also help.” B E E - C AU S E Bees aren’t just in the brand name. They’re part of our history, our culture, and our future, too. Burt Shavitz, the bearded co-founder of Burt’s Bees, was a beekeeper, says Leia Berryman, Senior Brand Manager Burt’s Bees. “It was his bees that made the wax in the first Beeswax Lip Balm. Today, this 100% natural Lip Balm is considered a beauty cult-classic and one is sold every second globally. To show our support and passion for the bees, this sustainable partnership with Taronga Zoo will join a selection of other likeminded non-profit organisations and businesses – all of which are empowered and supported by the Burt’s Bees Greater Good Foundation, an initiative established in 2007, designed to further Burt’s Bees mission of responsible environmental stewardship. Burt’s Bees encourages you to help the bees with little actions at home such as planting flowering plants for bees to forage on.” For more information go to Burt’s Bees Facebook page and Instagram: @burtsbeesaus ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |67
fUTURE PROOF Elisabeth King talks with L’Oréal’s Architect of Tech Beauty Solutions
Guive Balooch doesn’t do gimmicks or marketing speak. The global vice president of L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator has a Ph.D in Biomaterials and a strong background in the pharmaceutical industry. Five years ago, he set up the French beauty giant’s New York based research hub with a single goal in mind. To predict and produce high tech solutions to how consumers will select and use beauty, sun protection and hair products in the future.
Balooch criss-crosses the globe in search of progressive start-ups and collaboration partners to guide his 25-strong team who are based in San Francisco, New York, Paris and Japan. He regularly speaks at conferences such as the 2016 IFSCC Congress, the global federation dedicated to international cooperation in cosmetic science, in sessions entitled “Beauty Has No Borders”. On a recent visit to Australia to talk about the Kérastase Hair Coach, he stresses that the ground-breaking smart brush is a collaboration with Withings, the global consumer electronics company now owned by Nokia, whose best-selling connected health devices include a smart sleep system, automatic activity tracking watches and the first-to-market WiFi scale.
R&D RULES
Guive Balooch, Global Vice President of L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator
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Everything we do is rooted in research, says Balooch. “People don’t need another gadget. The new brush features Withings advanced sensors and designs teamed with L’Oréal’s signal analysis algorithms. With a built-in microphone that listens to the sound of hair to provide analysis in preventing frizziness, split ends and breakage, the Hair Coach is a game-changer in haircare. Yes, there’s been
some snarky headlines but we had the longest queues at the 2017 CES electronics show in Las Vegas because people recognised its huge potential to impact how people care for their hair”. Passing trends don’t interest Balooch. No one needs to monitor their heart rate or sleep patterns on a continuous basis and the market is over-saturated with fitness trackers and smart watches, he says. “But few developments showcase the fusion between personal care and advanced technology better than the My UV patch launched under the La Roche-Posay brand”. Created in collaboration with PCH, the US$1 billion global fulfillment multinational, My UV patch is the first stretchable skin sensor available to consumers. “The patch basically tells people how much UV radiation they are exposed to”, says Balooch. “It contains photosensitive dyes that detect changing skin colour and pictures can be uploaded to an app for analysis. It’s been such a success. We released 500,000 worldwide last year and are aiming to distribute one million in 2017. We weren’t the first to bring a wearable sun exposure tracker to market but the My UV patch is the most advanced and accurate”. Other patches are already in the works, says Balooch. “We are already working on second skin patches that measure hydration levels, skin elasticity and temperature. Our ultimate aim is to create a skin-type device that can give consumers personalised data on their skin moisture levels, UV exposure and the best rejuvenating products to use”.
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THE THREE PILLARS OF BEAUTY TECHNOLOGY L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator focuses on the three pillars of beauty technology Coaching (tools, sensors and data which adapt to consumer needs), Personalistion (honing a brand’s ability to create custom products) and Virtual Try-Ons - (apps and other ways to provide customers with virtual reality services). The Kérastase Hair Coach and My UV patch fall under the first two pillars. But the Tech Incubator’s main success to date under the third classification is the L’Oréal Paris Makeup Genius app, which has been downloaded more than 20 million times since its launch in 2014. The Makeup Genius is meant to improve the in-store experience, not replace it, says Balooch. “We worked with animation industry experts to create an app that knows which parts of a person’s eyes require shadow, liner and mascara and track them in real time to keep the virtual makeup in the correct spot. L’Oréal took images of 100,000 products in 40 different lighting conditions on models with different skin tones to make sure colours and textures looked right. It’s quick and easy because people don’t want 47 steps to do anything these days. They don’t have to try 20 shades in store, they can narrow them down to a few they know looks best and go and purchase them”.
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Makeup Genius also allows L’Oréal to spot trends and improve products, says Balooch. “Virtual reality and artificial intelligence will soon be the conventional way to try things on. We are already working on two other apps Hair Genius and Nail Genius”. Another exciting development, which debuted in selected Nordstrom stores in the US and is scheduled to launch in Australia in August, is Lancôme Le Teint Particulier foundation. Basically, the system scans a person’s skin and employs an algorithm that designs a customblended product from 20,000 pigments based on individual skin tone. The technology was developed by Sayuki, a California start-up acquired by L’Oréal in 2014.
1. La Roche-Posay’s My UV patch 2. The Kérastase Hair Coach 3. L’Oréal Paris Makeup Genius app
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Business. esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business.
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Smart business
&
Smart
The importance of understanding your business and direction. Develop your own knowledge through studies and hands-on experience. Work with a mentor that has had success that is relevant to your business.
Savy
Samea Maakrun – Founder and MD of Sasy n Savy, shares her Must Knows to launching a global skincare range. Sasy n Savy is an Australian natural skincare & wellbeing brand. Sasy n Savy, exports to 18 counties including Asia, the Middle East, UK and parts of the European Union. Retail partners include: Harrods, Boots, Harvey Nichols in Dubai and Kuwait. The brand also sells to airlines and cruise liners - QANTAS,Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Malaysian Airlines, P&O and Star cruises.
Understand who you are selling to
Entering a new country is always hard; relationships need to be built from scratch. Know the customs of a country and know the market before trying to enter. Think big, but see the bigger picture
Every country has different regulations on ingredients that you can and can’t use. Certain words on packaging and colours can have different meanings from country to country. Flexibility
Being focused, attentive, driven by passion and intelligence create success, but having an open mind is the key. I recognise that my way isn’t always the right way. Be willing to change and adapt, you simply cannot afford to be stubborn in business. Persistence… and knowing when to move on
Waiting around for answers or trying to get a solution to a problem can be irritating. Understand your customer and their customs, sometimes you need to be persistent as it can take 3-4 visits for it to be a successful outcome. However, know when to give up. Failing quickly and getting over it allows you to re-focus and listen to why. It will grow your business and also your resilience. Trust your instincts and manage self doubt
“ T here’s an ever-increasing demand in the global market for more Australian skincare products,” says Samea Maakrun, “which is why we exhibited Sasy n Savy’s newly redesigned skincare products at the Australian Skincare Brands stand at Cosmoprof held in Bologna, Italy in March, 2017.”
Just DO IT! Get a product or service and customers and go for it. For me self doubt is when I’m creating or doing something new. I accept it and will just go with the flow and learn from my mistakes, as there is no wrong or right answer at the time. All outcomes are a learning.
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succeed an insatiable desire to
“All human behaviour is motivated by two things – seeking pleasure and avoiding pain.And avoiding pain is a GREATER motivator than seeking pleasure”– Tony Robbins.
Most people procrastinate in areas they perceive to be painful. We’re more prone to procrastinate if the task seems too difficult, too tedious or.…too painful. The procrastinator will often put off important tasks until the very last minute and may even put off necessary and important tasks indefinitely. Think of the kinds of tasks you put off. For example: Have you ever put off terminating an employee who you knew was poison to the rest of the team, lazy, not committed or not productive enough, knowing she/he hasn’t got it in them to ever be productive enough?
Do you know what you just did? YOU WAITED UNTIL THE PAIN WAS GREAT ENOUGH! Up until the time you did it (terminated the employee), it all seemed too hard. You don’t like confrontation or upsetting people. Perhaps you even thought you would make them cry. That’s the ‘pain’. That’s the avoidance. Even though you knew it was the right thing for the business; which would have been the ‘pleasure’. At that juncture, the pain of it all seemed far greater than the perceived pleasure. So, you didn’t terminate.
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Now it’s great that you finally did it, but at what cost? Everything and everyone would have been much better off if you had done it when you first thought they should leave. You see, it’s human nature to default to avoiding pain rather than seeking pleasure. The trick and true ‘leadership’ is to look at the effect of your action, whichever way you go. Change your mindset to feeling that the pleasure of a work environment free of a bad apple is far greater than the pain of confrontation. You really need to understand WHY you do WHAT you do. If you don’t understand why you do what you do or why you DON’T do what you don’t do, then you get addicted to procrastination. Procrastination is one of the most common addictions in business that keep people disappointed, often leading to guilt and shame. Like any addiction, procrastination can be addressed. You can’t overcome it overnight. Think about it, it took a lifetime to develop this habit. It won’t take a lifetime to break it, however it will take time. You can’t be neurotic about it. You must be practical. You need to be grounded and committed. You must be organised. Moreover, you must take ‘blame’ out of the equation.
BUSINESS
And then, the situation became unbearable. The employee was losing sales, upsetting the rest of the team and disrespecting you. At this juncture, avoiding the pain no longer seemed as great as before. The employee had to go. The pleasure of having a business without that employee was MUCH GREATER than the pain of the confrontation. So you finally did it. You terminated them.
Have you ever used the language “She/he made me do it”? No one can make you do or not do anything. No one has the power to affect you that you don’t give the power to. One of the biggest reasons people procrastinate is because they don’t really know how to effectively do what they need to do. They don’t have the confidence or the knowledge they need to get the task done efficiently and smoothly. When that confidence is absent, the ‘doing’ of the task creates greater pain than the prospect of the task being completed and creating pleasure. This is also what’s happening with your team. When a team member doesn’t do what is expected of them, their perceived pain is greater than their perceived pleasure. Why? Because they simply don’t know enough to turn it around to greater perceived pleasure than perceived pain.
So what do you do to overcome this? It all starts with being an action person. No successful business owner ever succeeded by chance. The successful have acquired the habits, the knowledge and the mindset of a successful business owner. If you don’t acquire the habits, knowledge and skills required to get there, then you pay with the pain of regret. The greatest commonality of successful business people is that they have a different level of desire. It’s a red-hot passion that is invisible. You can’t see it but you know it’s there by the way they behave and carry themselves. Whatever they do, they have pride in. Pride in a job well done, reaping well-earned rewards. If your problems are bigger than your passion, you’ll procrastinate. If your world falls around you, have the courage to get back up. Even if you’ve hit rock bottom, YOU’RE NEVER OUT OF THE GAME! You need to have those insatiable qualities and energy that cannot be seen but can be felt. It’s courage. It’s passion. It’s pride. It’s desire.
AN INSATIABLE DESIRE TO SUCCEED. That’s what separates the mediocre from the remarkable. If you want to succeed, you can’t get passive about it. You can’t procrastinate. You’ve got to take action. You’ve got to get IN the GAME! You can’t win sitting on the bench. No one wins sitting on the bench. You’ve got to take the hits and learn from them.
We all get hit. The question is… how long are you going to stay down? Most people spend more time on their problems than they do on their passion. You need to stop spending time on things that don’t serve you. You need to let go of situations that take your time and don’t serve you. Something has got to give. Start to commit to doing one thing first. Focus on not just doing it, but the accomplishment of doing it. And then you’ll reap the reward from it. Do it again and again. Soon it will be your new habit. Move onto the next area. Get organised. You must BE organised. It’s not something you do but rather something you BE. By Brigitte Benge, CREAM Solutions
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by Amanda Stevens
Insights into the mindset of the indie brand customer One of the biggest changes we’ve seen in the retail sector in the last few years is the rise of new and independent brands. From fashion to footwear to food, furniture to homewares, funky new labels are capturing the hearts and minds of consumers and challenging the established brands operating in traditional retail models. Of course, the beauty industry has been one of the major sectors impacted, with the shopfloor still dominated by the iconic global names that everyone knows now peppered with niche brands new to the market. So what’s the psyche of the indie brand consumer. And how do YOU sell indie brands to a changing consumer?
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BUSINESS
5
Essential tips for selling new and indie brands Three
Five
FOCUS ON NEWNESS
BE INGREDIENT-AWARE
EXTEND THE VALUE BEYOND THE BEAUTY COUNTER
The rise of millennial consumers is changing the game for beauty and many other categories. Millennials are entering their peak purchasing years and they are hungry for what’s new and trendy. Their nomadic outlook on life is reflected in their brand choices and shopping behaviour. They seek out journeys of discovery and brands that speak to an aspirational, nostalgic view on the world. They work to live rather than live to work. They seek out brands that offer more than cream in a jar – they want to connect with brands that reflect their lifestyle. They are often seeking out a new brand simply for the benefit of discovery. Help them with that journey by showing them what’s new on the market.
A major trend driving the rise of independent brands is those that have tapped into the increasing desire for organic, sustainable skincare. Brands inspired by botanical-based ingredients such as Jurlique have been popular for many years but many new brands are appealing to consumer demand for certified organic products that are completely free of chemicals. The vegan-friendly stamp is increasingly sought after today. Consumers are more ingredient-aware than ever and as a beauty expert, you need to be too.
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Research shows that for every sense that is engaged in a purchasing situation, propensity to buy increases. In other words, if your customers are seeing, holding, feeling and smelling a product, they are far more likely to take the product home. Many new independent brands, particularly those that are certified organic have essential oil based ingredients and smell heavenly. Some have also developed ranges that are aesthetically engaging; an increasingly important purchase factor for today’s consumer who sees her skincare products as an extension of her bathroom style. Encourage your customers to have a tactile experience with new products and watch your sales increase.
Many new indie beauty brands have engaged a loyal consumer base from day one by inviting them to ‘co-parent’ their brand. They utilise social media to have a two-way conversation with their consumers and involve them in everything from product names, launches, behind-the-scenes footage from photo shoots and online communities. As such, their consumers become their ambassadors and this word-of-mouth marketing enables them to grow market share without the expense of traditional marketing methods. By understanding what’s on offer for a customer once they purchase a product, you can help enhance the perceived value of the brand and lock in future sales in the form of repeat purchases and word of mouth.
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UNDERSTAND THE EMERGING IMPORTANCE OF FOUNDER AND PHILOSOPHY Consumers love a good story and love to feel connected to a brand story. What independent brands have over the global giants is they have their founder and philosophy as an intrinsic part of their brand DNA. Consumers feel connected and it makes the brand appear more authentic and engaging. A unique brand story also helps a brand grow through word of mouth. Female consumers love to share a new brand with their friends, particularly if it has an interesting story attached. In terms of brand appeal, this can often transcend the functional aspect of the product itself. Independent brands have a unique and interesting story; how it started, the founder’s journey to getting on the radar, how the product is made, where it’s made, who’s behind it, which celebrities are devotees, the sourcing of ingredients and the insight behind the brand name. More and more, consumers are connecting to a brand’s philosophy just as much as the benefits and often they will buy the ‘why’ more than the ‘what’. Your ability to inspire your customers by demonstrating your understanding of all aspects of a brand will dramatically improve your powers of persuasion.
Four ENGAGE THE SENSES
As the beauty sector becomes more fragmented, with the new kids performing on a block that is dominated by a handful of global giants, we will see increasing numbers of niche brands, aiming to capture a small slice of the multi-billion dollar cosmetics industry. Today’s educated and brand-aware consumer comes beauty shopping all genned up with research and having had a good chat with her girlfriends – work with her inquisitiveness. Of course she wants a product that works and lives up to its claims, but she’s also more likely than ever to care about a brand’s environmental impact, where it’s made and who’s behind the brand. Be ahead of the game on this knowledge and you will be a retailing rock star.
Divine, a certified-organic skincare range cofounded by Miranda Kerr’s mum Therese has a strong brand philosophy, beautiful packaging and a strong social media following. See pages 32 & 33 – Elisabeth King looks at the business of marketing indie brands AND see page 45 Industry News for Mary Zavaglia’s report from the Indie Beauty Expo in LA.
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esprit Magazine promotion
GET THE INSIDE EDGE WHEN SEARCHING FOR YOUR NEXT JOB IN BEAUTY By Michelle Heaps & Erica Oroszlany, Managing Partners, BeautyConnections Australia
We work with lots of Recruiting Managers in the Beauty industry; no matter what kind of role, or size of the cwompany, their hiring challenges are often similar. As a job-seeker, understanding the challenges that potential employers have, can help you tailor your approach, so YOU stand out from the crowd! CHALLENGE: TIME PRESSURES
What are employers looking for? Information about you, provided in the most time-efficient way. A cover letter that is relevant This is your opportunity to draw connections between you and the role: • If there is an ad you’re responding to, make sure you address the specific criteria listed in the ad, and describe why you would be a great fit for the job. • Avoid using a form letter that hasn’t been updated specifically for the job’s requirements. • Keep it short and to the point. A résumé that clearly spells out work history, skills & experience Employers want to see quickly that you have the experience and skills to do the role, therefore your résumé needs to be wellformatted, uncluttered & easy to read. For each role, list: • Where you worked. • Your title. • How long you were there (use month/year format). • Your responsibilities (listed in bullet points). • Your achievements (again, in bullet points). • Include your education details, as applicable. A LinkedIn profile that’s up to date • The details of your LinkedIn profile should match that of your résumé – titles, employers and dates. • Make sure you look professional in your photo.
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• Research and “follow” other companies in the Beauty industry – this tells us about your professional interest in Beauty. • Above all, ensure that all of this content is free of typos - to an employer, it demonstrates your work ethic and attention to detail. Put your best foot forward! CHALLENGE: FINDING THE RIGHT B L E N D O F S K I L L S & C U LT U R A L F I T
What are employers looking for? Not only someone with the skills and experience to deliver on the role, but also a personality and working style that will fit into the company’s environment. Use homework & the interview process to make sure you are the right fit for each other: • Is the company fast-paced, or more measured and process-oriented? • Is it a smaller organization, with less resources but a ‘roll up your sleeves and get it done’ approach? Or perhaps bigger, with more departments that specialise in their functions? • What are the values of the company? Do they fit with your values? C H A L L E N G E : C A N D I DAT E S K E E N F O R T H E R O L E & W I T H A PA S S I O N F O R B E AU T Y
What are employers looking for? Someone who will describe: • Why you want to work for their company. • Why you want the role that is on offer. • What you can bring to the role. Be sure to do your homework, and be prepared to discuss:
www.beauty-connections.com.au
The Company: • Look at their website and social media channels. • Google the brand and their parent company to familiarize yourself with their company structure and any recent news. • If they are a retail brand, go in to stores and look at their counter presence or their wall – have a chat with the beauty advisor. • Already love & use their products? Look in your cosmetic bag & note the specific product & shade name, to mention in your interview. The Role: • Read the advertisement/job description carefully! • How does your experience make you qualified for this role? • How does a role like this fit into your career progression plans? LOV E T H E B E AU T Y I N D U S T RY ? T E L L US WHY!
A genuine enthusiasm for Beauty always makes a positive impression on potential employers. You can tell us in your cover letter, and/or in your interviews, but be sure to be able to also tell us why you want a career in Beauty. SYDNEY Michelle Heaps Managing Partner BeautyConnections Australia (02) 9432 7826
MELBOURNE Erica Oroszlany Managing Partner BeautyConnections Australia (03) 9607 1391
F O R B E AU T Y. Inside and Out!
Paper-Pak is a family owned Australian business, supplying stock and custom print packaging solutions to a broad range of businesses across the retail sector. A member of the Detmold Group, Paper-Pak was established in 1989 and has since been a supplier of choice to industry leading brands, recognised for our quality, innovation, service and value. Paper-Pak offer a complete range of bio-degradable compostable and recyclable packaging products.
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Turn your passion to profitability
5 tips to help you create your personal brand ALLOW YOUR BRAND TO STAND OUT AND BE RECOGNISED. A STRONG CLEAR BRAND CREATES CLIENT TRUST AND RECOGNITION. YOU WANT YOUR AUDIENCE TO RECOGNISE AND IDENTIFY YOU AND YOUR BRAND WITHIN A CERTAIN AREA OF EXPERTISE. THE MAKEUP ARTIST GUILD’S CEO MELANIE BURNICLE SHARES IMPORTANT TIPS ON BUILDING YOUR PERSONAL BRAND.
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D EFI NI NG YOUR P E R S ONA L BRAND
YOUR B R AND’ S O NLI N E PRESE N C E
Ask yourself questions. Discovering the answers helps you to become better acquainted with yourself and your personal brand’s direction. Start thinking of your personal brand as though it were a business. Ask yourself WHY, understanding your drive and motivation is an important tool to guide you. Why do you do what you do? Make a list of all the reasons you love being a makeup artist. Knowing and understanding your “WHY” will help you promote and sell your brand. People buy into an idea and its passion before they buy into a brand. Your WHY will sell your brand’s image/message because it will have passion and purpose. Authenticity is key. What does your personal brand represent? How do you want your personal brand to be perceived by your potential clients? What are your values? Who are you? What’s your story? What’s your point of difference? What are your business goals for 2017? What do you want your clients to know about your brand? What message are you currently sending your clients? And what message would you like to send your clients? Who is your target market? What are your strengths and your weaknesses? The answers will help give your brand clarity. All good trusted personal brands have a clear story and purpose. Research people globally who have a strong brand and learn what they do well.
Be purposeful in the content you create to share. Once you have a clear vision of your brand make sure it has a presence in all that you share. Create an online strategy that will help you deliver a clear message. Create your personal brand’s website. Align your social media accounts. BE mindful about the messaging throughout each and every post you create. This will allow a consistent message to be sent to your followers. There is so much content available these days, adding value to your content will help you stand out and be trusted.
THREE INDUSTRY PR ESEN C E - STAND UP AND GET NOTIC ED Be a part of your industry community and build your profile amongst your industry peers. Attend networking events and become social within your industry. The MAGAP will run its inaugural awards program this year with categories for all genres of Makeup Artists. Entries will open in late April and entry is available to members at a discounted rate. The awards event will take place in October 2017. Ensure your brand and your beauty advisors get involved and get noticed.
MAGAP is the trusted voice for the makeup community; aiming to unite all genres of makeup artists in the Asia Pacific region. Join our community of makeup artists to learn more about how to make your makeup artistry business thrive. Head to www.themagap.com to sign up to receive up to date information on your industry.
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UNITING D N A G N I R NURTU RING EMPOWE S IST T R A Four C O MMUN I CATI O N O F YO UR B R AN D Developing your communication skills is imperative to business. Listening is a great way to build rapport and trust with your audience/ clients. Always speak with authenticity, wisdom and a confident strength in regards to your brand whether it’s online or in person. You need to be seen as an authority in what you do, never arrogant, but a trusted and reliable source of knowledge of your industry
FIVE GR OW I N G YO UR B RA N D ! Growing your brand is much easier when you understand and have all of the above in place! It will organically start to connect the right people to your brand.
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BUSINESS
ONLINE SHOPPING TRENDS
ONLINE RETAIL TRENDS FOR 2017 By Kate Morris founder adorebeauty.com.au
What’s ahead for e-tailers this year? I’ve spent the first couple of weeks of January doing some high level thinking and planning for what I think the year might hold:
Customer-Centricity I’m predicting 2017 will be the year we finally do away with the words “pureplay”, “omnichannel” and even “online retail”, and with that, scrap the notion that customers actually care about these labels. Customercentricity is much more important to the future of retail than channel, and in the end, customer-centric retailers will win the day, regardless of what channels they sell through. So if you have a “bricks and mortar” strategy that differs from your “digital” strategy: this year is the year to put them both in the bin, and start formulating your “adding customer value” strategy.
Mobile Only Strategies The growth of mobile seems set to continue unabated, and I’m hearing less about mobile-first strategies than I am about mobile-only strategies. It’s one thing to think about mobile as a slimmed-down version of desktop (desktop-lite, if you will) – but another altogether to think of it as if a customer may NEVER visit our desktop sites. It’s the ultimate user-experience and design challenge: communicate your entire brand, using only a tiny fraction of the space. Rather than trying to cram as much as possible into a tiny space, mobile-only strategy requires retailers to distil their brand promise to its purest essence. Not easy to do, and requires going right back to your “why” - your business’s reason for being.
Big Data Using big data to personalise every element of the customer experience will also be tremendously important in 2017. Each customer wants and deserves a uniquely personal, customised and targeted experience. Why should they be treated with a cookie-cutter approach, when we have enough data to do better? For most retailers this is not a question of collecting more data, but making better use of the data we have.
Be More Human I also believe 2017 offers a great opportunity for retailers to be a bit more human and a lot less faceless. The world seems to be going to hell in a handbasket, so we need warmth and generosity and realness more than ever. Let’s ditch the marketing-speak, and start putting our names and faces to the conversations that we start with our customers. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |81
Accord launches BeadRecede An initiative for responsible industry action on plastic microbeads
Environmental awareness, safety and consumer wellbeing have always been at the forefront of the Australian cosmetics and personal care products industry. That’s why the industry has been looking closely at environmental concerns relating to plastic microbead ingredients. Over the last few years individual companies have acted to replace these ingredients. And over this time Accord has been in dialogue with Australian environmental agencies on effective policy approaches for their orderly phase out. So, what’s the deal with plastic microbeads? Well, firstly there is a growing issue with plastics of all types, not just exfoliating beads in facial scrubs, getting into the marine environment. And related to this is the characteristic that plastic materials in general neither break down nor biodegrade with any ease, once they are in the marine environment. All of which can be bad news for our oceans. While plastic microbeads are only estimated at around 1 percent by weight of the total sources of plastic waste entering the marine environmenti, via its responsible approach to sustainability, the Australian industry has heeded calls for a phase out of plastic microbeads. As has the global cosmetics industry, of course. On 25 November 2016 Australia’s environment ministers formally endorsed a voluntary industry phase out of plastic microbead ingredients from cosmetic, personal care and household cleaning products. This decision by the federal environment minister and his eight state and territory counterparts ratified an
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earlier call for companies to voluntarily remove plastic microbeads “…by no later than 1 July 2018.” To help raise awareness of the minsters’ goal and facilitate widespread participation in the voluntary phase out project Accord has recently launched our BeadRecede initiative. Via BeadRecede Accord is encouraging companies to actively support the phase out timing announced by Australia’s environment ministers, as relevant to the products they make and supply. And under the umbrella of BeadRecede we are also offering a convenient, one-stop-shop for coordinating participation in the voluntary phase out in a manner which best allows ministers to receive the comprehensive reports on progress they have requested. The costs of BeadRecede administration are being absorbed by Accord. Letters inviting companies to participate were circulated in late February 2017. The initiative is voluntary, but participation sends a powerful message about a company’s commitment to act on this issue. Both members and non-members of Accord are being asked to consider BeadRecede. What all companies should note is the fact that the nation’s environment ministers have stated unambiguously that they will “reassess the effectiveness of voluntary action in mid-2017” and “if the voluntary approach does not result in an effective ban they will move at that time to regulate to give effect to a ban.” Accord has always been a supporter of effective industry stewardship approaches to tackle concerns which have been substantiated
as needing attention by policy evidence. Our previous schemes for negligible phosphorus in laundry detergents and voluntary ingredient disclosure for household cleaning products (the What’s in it? program) are tangible examples of this commitment. However, it remains a concern that despite the pro-active, responsible approach of the industry both here and overseas on plastic microbeads, we still face an element of undue political focus and unbalanced media reporting. If putting the environment first is the driving rationale, then political attention should now be directed at other more significant, but unresolved, sources of marine microplastic waste, such as microfibres from fleece and other synthetic clothing. The goal, after all, must be action on all dimensions of the marine plastic waste problem, not just the 1 percent factor which our industry is already working to address. The environmental advocacy group Boomerang Alliance has estimated the following as significant sources [by weight] of marine plastic waste: tyre dust (18%) plastic manufacturing (9%) and synthetic fibres (9%), compared to 1% for plastic microbeads – see http:// www.boomerangalliance.org.au/sources i
Accord Australasia is the peak body representing all companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au
TALK THE TALK
GLOSSARY OF TERMS IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY Here we solve the mystery behind some commonly-used acronyms & phrases in the beauty industry
GA
URL
SEO
Google Analytics is the tool created by
A URL is the web address for a specific
SEO refers to the practice of optimising
Google to help you track your website
page. You can see the URL for any web
a website so that it ranks highly in
traffic.
page by looking in the address bar at
search engine result pages. Some key
the top of your browser window.
elements of SEO are content, keywords,
Google Analytics
Uniform Resource Locator
Search Engine Optimisation
headlines, meta information, backlinks
SEM
and site structure/speed.
Search Engine Marketing SEM refers to the way that companies
RTD
Real-time data
UV
and brands promote their website
Certain social media dashboards and
within search engines. The two main
website tracking tools measure data
elements of SEM are paid advertising
in real-time. This real-time data can
A unique visitor is an individual website
and Search Engine Optimisation.
be super interesting to see as well as
visitor who is counted only once in the
valuable to help optimise your content
traffic stats, regardless of how many
and web pages.
times they visit or pages they view.
Unique Visitor
ESP
Email Service Provider A program or software that allows you to send emails. MailChimp, for instance, is an ESP.
Google each for more info! If you don’t know something, never be afraid to ask.
Ask esprit and we can help, or point you in the right direction: info@esprit-magazine.com.au
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Social Media etiquette to save face, and maybe your job!
Picture a relaxing Sunday morning and you’re scrolling through your Facebook newsfeed. Then, bang…a photo of you appears from last night and it’s well, not entirely flattering, not exactly where you’d like your boss to see you. You’ve had that ‘oh no’ scenario? Here we look at ways of avoiding trouble in social media land - the art of behaving superbly on social media to so NOT get reprimanded or fired at work. With social media being more and more commonplace these days and people being willing to share every. single. thing. about their lives (especially, when it comes to what they’re eating), it’s also becoming increasingly common for people to lose their jobs over something they’ve posted. We here at MHAW only want you to succeed and be happy, so to help out, we’ve put together a few pointers on how NOT to behave on social media, to avoid getting into trouble with your boss.
X D O N ’ T B E R A C I S T.
Now this is just common sense and applies to all walks of life - and other prejudices as well. Don’t post anything that can be seen to be ridiculing, belittling or attacking another group of people. Your employer does not want to be associated to any of that through you, your 84|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
posts, your shares or your friends you associate with on social media.
X D O N ’ T CA L L I N S I C K A N D G O PA RT Y I N G .
And then post pictures of you - partying. Social media is just that, social. And getting caught won’t reflect well on you in the eyes of your boss.
X D O N ’ T P O S T YO U D O I N G S I L LY S T U F F AT T H E O F F I C E .
Pranks and tom foolery can be cool at the right time and in the right place, but not as evidence of you not working like you’re supposed to.
X DON’T PLAGIARIZE.
Don’t claim pictures or texts that aren’t actually yours. It doesn’t bode well about your ethics and moral compass. Always reference
the source. Fangirling or bromancing others’ content, however, is OK as long as you give a shout out or tag them.
X D ON’T BAD MOUTH YOUR
EMPLOYER, BOSS OR COLLEAGUES.
Just assume it will be shown to your boss someday by someone. It just will.
X D O N ’ T R A N T OV E R YO U R C L I E N T S .
Unless the rant is unequivocally, glowingly positive. This is another one, that’s just plain good manners. As my mother used to say “if you haven’t anything nice to say …”
X D O N ’ T P O S T TO O M U C H .
During working hours, we mean. If you’re meant to be working, it’s not a great reflection on your work ethic to keep posting every five minutes.
E V E RY T H I N G I S N OT L I V E - O R - D I E S E R I O U S . B U T W E U R G E YO U TO T H I N K T W I C E A B O U T: S E T T I N G YO U R FA C E B O O K P RO F I L E PUBLIC.
It just makes the odds of your posts ending up in plain sight for anyone to see - including the people, you’d rather not know your business. L I K I N G O R G A N I SAT I O N S O R G RO U P S T H AT C O N F L I C T W I T H YO U R E M P LOY E R ’ S VA LU E S .
Depending on the gravity of the conflict, this one could even get you fired. P O S T I N G P H OTO S W I T H A L C O H O L .
In some professions, party photos can be frowned upon. Just be mindful of your situation.
U S I N G T E X T I N G L A N G UA G E .
You went to school? You do know there is spell check? Most future employers are usually meticulous of spelling and grammar.
social media manners checklist. Making Work Absolutely Human is a knowledge base and a community of all the real stuff you need to lead and work with people, today and in the future.
TA G G I N G OT H E R S .
Not everyone knows about setting Tag Approve on your Facebook profile. You just may get someone else in trouble by tagging them and they appear on the newsfeed without their permission.
By Sally Cooper, Community and Connections Manager MWAH - Making Work Absolutely Human.
S U M M A RY
It’s not rocket science, just a bit of common sense and basic manners. Just remember, a little discretion goes a long way. Did you find anything new here, you hadn’t already thought about? Download MWAH’s ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |85
BEAUTY & THE BEST
Let me show you
Here we ask Beauty Advisors how they go out from their counter and approach customers to invite them back to counter for a service or consultation. How do they traffic stop?
Core to our business are customers. We set up the party. They are the guests. Every day we open our doors and welcome them in. Then comes the tricky part. They may go past your counter, or through the store as a convenient short cut to elsewhere. Hang on, Madame! Traffic stopping is a skill to perfect.
When traffic stopping you have to firstly read the customer’s body language and decide whether or not to approach. The key is using gentle, direct wording and ultimately knowing what your objective is, what are you trying to achieve? A straight-to-the point offer will allow the customer to make one of two choices:
Mai Dang Company: Clarins Group Store: David Jones Queens Plaza Brisbane, QLD Traffic stopping is a skill and it can take time to perfect. Firstly the team and I begin this process by deciding upon the offer, product or new launch that we wish to share with all prospective new customers. Often we gather a handout or sample, so at least there is a takeaway and a lasting experience with Clarins. Secondly, we discuss a dialogue which must be direct and to-the-point, because the majority of customers are passing by, not initially intending to stop at the Clarins counter. We believe that presentation is also incredibly important when traffic stopping. Do you look the part in your uniform? We feel it is important to greet a customer with a big smile (genuinely), a confident and friendly approach, whilst remaining professional.
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1. Our preferred choice: Once the introduction is successful, our main goal is to nurture the customer back to the counter for a wonderful Clarins experience. The decision will ultimately be made by the customer and if time permits. 2. As above, however if time does not permit: We have still been able to share the Clarins brand love, give out a ‘complimentary’ return appointment card or a sample that the customer can use at a time that suits her/him. This approach works well for our team. Some days we will recruit many new customers and some days none at all! This skill is a challenge to perfect individually because it does involve rejection more than success. Instead, our advice is to think positively about spreading brand awareness of the brand we love so dearly - Clarins. The results are quite remarkable and the new customers will often purchase three or more units, in delight with their Clarins experience at counter and their excitement for their new wonderful products, because at Clarins it is all about you.
OOPS! In the last issue of esprit Magazine Australia we mistakenly featured Mai Dang from Clarins with text from Napoleon Perdis. We apologise and now share the correct comment from Mai. The subject was titled: I wanna hold your hand, and we asked BAs to share their top tips on the power of maximizing on human interaction.
Charlotte Penny Company: Bobbi Brown Town/city: Field Coach Melbourne, VIC
Mai Dang - Clarins Group At Bobbi we always approach people with a smile. I always introduce myself and ask if they’ve used Bobbi Brown Cosmetics before and then share Bobbi’s philosophy and passion. We’re very much a teaching brand so we always offer her a complimentary How To which can take from 5 minutes to 45 minutes depending on her time availability. Each How To comes with a personalised face chart so they can see how easy it is to feel confident and beautiful, and recreate that feeling at home every day. If she can’t take a seat right away, our How To menu is the perfect take home to peruse at her leisure and call to book a more suitable time.
R a c h e l Va n D e r N e s t Company: Estée Lauder Store: Myer Morley Perth, WA Estée Lauder believed in coming out from behind the counter to connect with her customers and to share her knowledge on beauty. These ideals remain the cornerstone of being an Estée Lauder Beauty Advisor. When I want to invite customers back to the counter, I avoid thinking about the person I’m approaching as a potential buyer, but rather as someone I want to introduce our great products to and who I’d like to genuinely assist. It’s all about being friendly, having a conversation and recommending the products that are right for them. Estée Lauder’s Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup is a favourite product to introduce potential customers to. I like to advise them that it is currently the #1 selling prestige foundation in Australia. This sparks interest and gives me the opportunity to invite them back to the counter to be colour matched and offer a free 10-day sample. Colour-matching is also a great way to talk to the customer about their skin which can also link to other products such as cleansers, primers and powders.
Marlene Haggar Company: La Prairie Store: David Jones Elizabeth Street Sydney NSW The top line answer to this question goes back to good customer service. I want the customers to feel welcome and that starts with my body language. Smiling, making eye contact, standing tall and a friendly hello should be enough to engage customers. This makes them feel comfortable to stop and engage in conversation. This says “I’m glad you’re here”. The next step is rapport building - finding something in common not related to the products. This is your window of contact. This is your opportunity to compliment them on their jewellery, hairstyle or clothing. A little authentic chit chat goes a long way. She will remember this conversation because you made her feel special. If you’re not memorable the customer won’t return. Ask many open-ended questions to find out exactly what her skincare needs are. Asking questions shows you care. The more questions, the better. Be honest, if they feel they can trust you, they’re more likely to buy. Whether they purchase today or come back they will remember their experience and tell their friends. Just like the friendly greeting, I make sure my farewell is also genuinely warm.
The most important action word in this industry is ‘Listen’. When properly listening to your customers, you are maximising on the power of human interaction, because a piece of technology could never replace the human ear and show the love and care that a human can provide to another. My favourite quote to live and work by from our founder, Jacques CourtinClarins is: The strength of Clarins lies in women. The success of Clarins lies in respect, in listening to our customers. I bring this quote to life in my daily work in four points: 1. Beauty Advisor WOW Factor As a Clarins Beauty Advisor, I start my day by setting a positive mindset and look forward to helping and providing the best service possible. 2. Respect, Trust and Loyalty I pride myself on showing total respect to all of our customers, while also sharing empathy because, after all, customers are sharing with me their personal insecurities linked to their skin. 3. To Listen and Build Rapport Acknowledgement and eye contact with customers is of utmost importance in our industry. When interacting with customers, I always listen to their needs, concerns and circumstances. Understanding these areas allows me to use my product knowledge and expertise to demonstrate the correct methods of application. I then tailor a perfect skincare program for each customer. 4. Beauty Advisor Individuality I’m very passionate and take pride in my work. I have a total belief in Clarins products and therefore this provides me a greater confidence when advising my clients. I find the customers are highly appreciative when leaving our counter and I would always go the extra mile to make their visit to Clarins an enjoyable and worthwhile trip. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |87
I wanted to feel good about myself, particularly around the hair loss – and learn how to draw on eyebrows! It was also a good chance to be in a room with other women who are going through similar experiences VANESSA, LGFB WORKSHOP PARTICIPANT
LIFE FEELS BETTER IN COLOUR Look Good Feel Better offers skincare, make-up and headwear tips and tricks to help cancer patients like Vanessa face their diagnosis with confidence. Vanessa shares her experience …
For Vanessa, 40, a routine health check resulted in the worst kind of surprise – a breast cancer diagnosis. “Immediately my thoughts went to my three boys, and doing whatever I had to do to be there for them,” she says. “After the initial shock, I just decided to take this as I take everything else – with positivity and energy.” Vanessa sought out a Look Good Feel Better workshop in the hope that it would help her regain control and a sense of positivity. “I would absolutely recommend Look Good Feel Better to others going through treatment,” says Vanessa. “It’s informative, it’s fun – what have you got to lose?”
BELOW: Vanessa learns how to draw on her eyebrows. RIGHT: An artist creates a water colour painting of Vanessa.
88|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 VISIT LGFB.ORG.AU OR CALL 1800 650 960
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER WORKSHOPS
Over two hours, volunteer beauty professionals share helpful tips on skincare and make-up application, scarf styling and wig selection. Participants also receive a complimentary Confidence Kit full of products to use throughout the workshop and to take home with them.
Regional Manager NSW/SA for L’Occitane
MY JOURNEY
DANETTE ELLIOTT by Elisabeth King
A good work ethic is more than putting your nose to the grindstone. It’s the belief that you are accountable and responsible for what you accomplish teamed with the knowledge that you are doing something worthwhile. My parents, especially my father who was a colonel in the army, really fostered the need to be exposed to the workplace at a young age and to treat people with respect, says Danette Elliott, Regional Manager NSW/SA for L’Occitane. I started at McDonald’s when I was at school, adds Elliott. “It was great training and I progressed from crew to swing manager, supervising staff, products and equipment, through to going to uni. I enrolled in a degree course in art history and curation at ANU in Canberra, but quickly discovered that it wasn’t the right choice for me. I went full time at McDonald’s and moved to Sydney to manage the outlet in the Entertainment Centre. At the age of 21, I was managing an entire team in a frenetically busy environment”. Elliott had always had a keen interest in beauty, though. “Even as a teenager, I loved exploring The Body Shop and Red Earth stores. Don’t ask me why, but I even bought Estée Lauder’s cult anti-ager, Advanced Night Repair, when I was only nineteen. The attraction also sparked my love of retail and I applied for the job of assistant manager at the Esprit fashion store in Sydney’s Oxford Street”. An experience that taught Elliott about basic merchandising and the retail environment. But she still hankered after a career in the beauty business. “I kept sending out my CV and finally scored the position of manager at Mecca Cosmetica’s store in Chatswood. I loved working with on-trend brands like Nars and Stila. I pored over every copy of Allure magazine, the US beauty bible, and it was very
rewarding to educate customers and be part of Jo Horgan’s vision”. Elliott worked for Mecca for seven years, including a long stint at the company’s busy Elizabeth Street store. “But I really felt the need to work for a larger organisation to develop my career further. I returned to fashion to work for the Cue and Veronika Maine brands as regional manager responsible for 15 stores. It was a fast-paced job and I had to be very reactive. When you are only managing one or two stores, you can fix problems instantly. I stayed for two years and really learned how a successful business operates”. Switching back to the cosmetics industry, Elliott worked for M.A.C for two years. “The highpoint for me was the visit of Dita von Teese for the brand. “My husband works in finance and was transferred to Singapore just before the GFC. I didn’t work for 18 months while we lived in Asia and was up for a new challenge on our return to Australia”. Another industry beckoned. Elliott was asked by a friend, Anthony Puharich, of Vic’s Premium Quality Meat, Australia’s leading distributor of premium quality meat to the restaurant service industry, to manage Victor Churchill, his then new boutique butchery in Woollahra. “Even though I had never worked at the luxury end of the food industry before, Anthony and his father Vic thought I had the ability to run such an amazing concept”, says Elliott. “I loved the job and my retail training expertise quickly translated into selling haute couture meat cuts such as $1000 pieces of 9+ full blood wagyu beef. I trained team members in premium-selling service”. After 18 months running the luxury meat boutique, whose plush interior design won the “Best of the Year” award at the 2010 New York International Design Awards, Elliott moved to L’Occitane in 2012 as a regional manager. “I was very careful to choose the right cultural fit. With a small child, I simply had to leave
work at 5.30 each day. I told them this at the interview but emphasised my ability to meet targets and get results. They agreed and I was back in the business I adore”. When Elliott joined L’Occitane, there was still a strong priority on gift-giving. “There’s been a big change over the past five years as we have moved into anti-ageing skincare such as Divine and Divine Harmony and developed our fragrance portfolio, including our latest release - Terre de Lumiere”. Elliott believes that to be a true leader and manage staff well, you have to have a good succession plan in place. “This approach makes team members more accountable for the business. My team is so diverse and includes uni students studying to be doctors, lawyers and architects. They are so intelligent and really get what we are trying to do. For a Valentine’s Day promotion, for example, it’s not about a big offer but making our customers feel like our Valentines”. Elliot manages 10 stores - 9 in Sydney and one in South Australia. “The role is very intense and challenging. In my opinion, retail is a career to really aspire to. Our boss, Country Manager David McConnachie, really leads from the front. He is so open to ideas and rolls up his sleeves if need be. He recently worked at one of our flagship stores in Sydney’s Centrepoint for two days and the team members loved it”. Beauty is the most fascinating business, says Elliott. “To succeed in the industry as a career, you have to be multi-faceted. A combination of entrepreneur, HR manager and counsellor to younger staff, in addition to having the ability to open new stores, encourage staff to meet targets and develop great product knowledge. But one of the things I really appreciate is that whatever brand they work for, the beauty industry attracts such dynamic people. I am in a great role and can’t wait to start work every day. You can’t ask for better than that in your working life”. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |89
Brand
NEWS
Mecca Launches Mario Badescu Mario Badescu Rose Hips Nourishing Oil is lightweight yet moisture-intensive with an antioxidant-packed formula. It revives and smooths dehydrated skin. Ideal for combination, dry or sensitive skin. Apply 1-2 drops to areas that need an extra boost of hydration (like the skin between the brows or around the nose) to help rejuvenate skin. After cleansing and toning, massage 2-3 drops on face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Follow with moisturiser or night cream. Mario Badescu Rose Hips Nourishing Oil (RRP $31.00) is available at Mecca Maxima from April 4th, 2017.
HAVE A GUESS GUESS 1981, a sensual Floral Musk, is inspired by the heritage of the brand and the classic elegance of the GUESS girls. Perfumer Stephen Nilsen of Givaudan created a scent formulated to empower the wearer to be true to herself and to do what she wants in life: “I wanted to create a fragrance with a contrast of layers and textures, like this woman who has many facets, expressing her inner strength yet also possessing an alluring, feminine softness.” This simple and unfussy fragrance also embodies LA lifestyle, where the brand was founded, and echoes notes of Southern Californian nature through clean, textured woods and airy, sensual musks. EdT 50ml, RRP $49.00 and 100ml RRP $69.00. Available May 2017 at GUESS boutiques, Priceline and selected pharmacies.
Miss Jean Lipstick Miss Jean Lipstick range by Napoleon Perdis provides creamy, silky, luxe comfort and texture, in a range of rich colours in matte, metallic or shimmer finish. Infused with smouldering pigments for instant colour laydown, the nourishing blend of ingredients leaves lips soft and infused for long-lasting wear. Feeling ready for red, naughty for nude or bewitched by brown, your cosmetics customers can browse the collection and choose. RRP $38.00. Napoleon Perdis is available at Napoleon Perdis Concept Stores, David Jones, Myer and over 875 pharmacies and salons throughout Australia.
Ellier Olive Oil Moisturiser Brisbane-based Ellier has created a nourishing all-purpose olive oil moisturiser that helps restore smoothness, tone and block free radical damage to the skin. This 100% Australian owned label is all about making a positive impact to your beauty regime and the environment by using minimal ingredients and resources. No Parabens, No PEGs, no synthetic colours or fragrances, no sulphates, no silicones and of course, a given, but it’s cruelty free with no animal testing. Rich in anti-ageing properties, Ellier olive oil moisturiser has a beautiful lightweight texture with no oil residue, which means it’s easily absorbed. Also rich in Vitamin E and sweet almond oil. Available in two sizes – 250ml ($34.99) and 100ml travel size $19.99. Available at www.ellier.com.au.
PURE COLOR LOVE Estée Lauder Pure Color Love is a collection of high-impact lipsticks in a kaleidoscope of shades and finishes: bold pigments and layerable textures. From brights and deeper tones to nudes and neutrals there are thirty shades and four finishes: Ultra Mattes – Rich matte, bold colour; Shimmer Pearls – Bold, shimmer colour with high pearl; Cooled Chromes – Bold, chrome colour with extreme pearl; and Edgy Crèmes – Bold, creamy colour. Packed with true colour pigments, Cooled Chromes, Shimmer Pearls and Edgy Crèmes have medium, buildable coverage that glides on. Ultra Mattes feature a super-soft and virtually weightless formula with a mattified finish and full coverage. The natural blend of three, superfruit, power oils, Pomegranate, Mango and Acai, helps condition and soften lips. Lipsmackingly they are flavour-infused with sweet vanilla. Estée Lauder Pure Color Love, RRP $36.00, will be available at selected Myer and David Jones stores and Sephora from April 30th.
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“The capital city of Cuba is full of colour inspiration - from the sunset over the Malecón to the bright paint on colonial-era homes, to the colorful vintage convertibles”. - Bobbi Brown. Inspired by this vibrant colour palette and energy Bobbi Brown Cosmetics’ Havana Brights Collection features a range of coral shades for lips, eyes and cheeks in all-new and best-selling formulas: New Dual-Ended Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick (RRP $48.00), Illuminating Cheek Palettes (RRP $85.00) and Art Stick Liquid Lip (RRP $46.00), plus Bobbi’s best-selling original Art Stick (RRP $46.00. Available: 2nd April, 2017 at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, select Myer and David Jones stores.
BRAND NEWS
Bobbi’s Havana Brights Collection
By Kilian - A Night To Remember clutch Visionary perfumer Kilian Hennessy’s A Night to Remember collection comprises three classic limited edition message clutches for a night that knows no bounds. Inspired throughout his lifetime by the Art Deco movement, Kilian revisits what was formerly a symbol of emancipation; the cigarette case, an accessory in accord with the demand for simplicity which echoed the changes in the manners and styles of the 1920s. Adorned with gold messages, each clutch turns into an invitation for a night to remember. Available in the By Kilian ‘store-in-store’ concept exclusively at Harrolds womenswear department store in Sydney and at Libertine Parfumerie. LOVE, DON’T BE SHY, 50ml RRP $399.00; VOULEZ-VOUS COUCHER AVEC MOI, 50ml RRP $475.00 and GOOD GIRL GONE BAD, 50ml RRP $399.00.
HALFETI BY PENHALIGON’S
Foundation is…the foundation Napoleon Perdis has created the Bespoke Colour Blend Foundation Customiser providing the product to help your customers never get caught wearing the incorrect foundation shade again. She simply adds her preferred shade and blends with foundation application. RRP $69.00. Fresh faced, natural radiance is in and Auto Pilot BBB Cream with SPF30 ups its ante with two new shades: Porcelain – Light and Dark – Darker. The allstar natural ingredient Snail Mucus infuses skin with hydration and antiageing properties, while Blueberry Seed Oil and Green Tea Extract provide antioxidant protection. Paraben and mineral-oil free, RRP $55.00. Foundation Stick is extending its shade range by two shades. Long lasting and buildable for minimum to maximum coverage with a matte finish, beneficial ingredients Beeswax, Aloe Vera, Vitamin C and Broad Spectrum SPF15, RRP $69.00. Available at Napoleon Perdis Concept Stores, David Jones, Myer and over 875 pharmacies and salons throughout Australia.
British fragrance house Penhaligon’s has built on the promise of their Trade Routes Collection with Halfeti, a sumptuous and mysterious rose scent evoking the luxuries of the 19th century’s rarest and valuable trading commodities. Perfumer Christian Provenzano composed spicy and exotic Halfeti to evoke a nostalgic vision of a Turkish bazaar filled with flowers, towering displays of spices and incense, supple leather hides and lustrous fabrics. Named after the beautifully exotic and exceedingly rare black rose found along the banks of the Euphrates river in the small Turkish village of Halfeti, so deeply red that they appear almost burnt, Halfeti’s richness is contrasted with lightness setting the rose against fresh green notes and anchored with a melange of culinary spices. The Trade Routes collection scents are presented in deluxe boxes. For Halefti, this is represented with a lacquered wood finish housed in the signature Penhaligon’s glass flacon. EdP 100ml, RRP $329.00. Available at Libertine Parfumerie, selected David Jones stores, Galerie de Parfum boutique’s in Myer Sydney and Melbourne and other niche perfumeries and boutiques in Australia and New Zealand.
Rimmel’s even better Rimmel’s new and improved Wake Me Up Anti-Fatigue Foundation SPF 20 and Wake Me Up Anti-Fatigue Concealer land on counter in April. WAKE ME UP ANTI-FATIGUE FOUNDATION SPF 20 With vitamin C and radiance pearls, it instantly brightens skin, evens skin tone and reduces dullness, revealing a radiant, healthy-looking glow. The cushion-like formula covers imperfections and smooths skin texture for a poreless looking finish. SPF 20 helps protect skin from sun damage and premature ageing. With a lightweight feel, it’s easy to apply and blend. There are five shades. RRP$19.95. WAKE ME UP ANTI-FATIGUE CONCEALER Enhanced with vitamin C and radiance pearls, it instantly illuminates the skin under the eyes and diffuses light to conceal dark circles and signs of fatigue for an awakened, wide-open eye-look. Conceals spots and other blemishes, blending with foundation for a flawless, smooth complexion. Long-wearing for up to 10 hours, and controls shine. There are three shades. RRP$14.95. At Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W, selected pharmacies and selected Coles and Woolworths. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017 |91
BRAND NEWS
Max Factor Eyefinity Smoky Eye Pencils Line and Define or Smoke and Smudge – Max Factor Eyefinity double-ended Smoky Eye Pencils can do it all. The two shade combinations have been inspired by Max Factor’s Colour Harmony, a makeup artistry term created by Mr. Max Factor in 1918, which helped diagnose shades to complement a woman’s complexion, eye shape and eye colouring. Black Onyx + Diamond Glitz and Black Charcoal + Brushed Copper, work with eye colours to complement or contrast, define and highlight. By using colour harmony, the perfect tones of brown have been used to ensure that green and hazel eyes are complemented, blue eyes pop and brown eyes are enhanced with matching tones. The black shade has been created to ensure a dramatic effect, contrasting against any eye colour, with a pearlescent highlighter to line and define. Available from April, RRP $23.95.
CLÉMENTINE CALIFORNIA BY ATELIER COLOGNE
Nude by Nature’s Glow Nude by Nature is promoting recently launched products as a team to create the 3 minute glow (see page 44 for more). Designed to create a flawless look for days when less is more. Sheer Glow BB Cream (30ml - $29.95), BB Brush ($24.95), Liquid Mineral Concealer, Highlight Sticks and the Allure Defining Mascara. 1. The all-in-one Sheer Glow BB Cream is formulated with active anti-ageing natural ingredients that help nourish and protect, such as the Vitamin-C-rich Australian Kakadu Plum, Quandong, Desert Lime, Aloe Vera and Desert Date Oil. The result is a luminous, natural finish with more even skin tone and the minimising of fine lines and imperfections. To accompany the Sheer Glow BB Cream, there’s new BB Brush. Adding to the extensive ultra-soft, synthetic Brush Collection, this latest ergonomically designed brush means fast and flawless application. Steps two, three and four in the ‘3 Minute Glow’ are also full of goodness: 2. The Liquid Mineral Concealer is enriched with vitamin E and Kakadu Plum, in a dewy, radiant and quick-to blend formula that instantly covers dark circles, disguises puffiness, blemishes and pigmentation. 3. To enhance natural contours for a glowing look, the glide-on cream-to-powder Touch of Glow Highlight Sticks are made of active natural ingredients, including Kakadu Plum, Quandong and Desert Lime to help provide antioxidant defence. 4. The look is finished with a quick sweep of the Allure Defining Mascara. Again, a formula with ‘more than cosmetic’ benefits as it contains Pro-Vitamin B5 to condition lashes over time.
Atelier Cologne has released its latest addition to its acclaimed Collection Originale, Clémentine California, a vibrant scent that finds inspiration in the seduction and magic of Hollywood. Renowned for the house’s innovative accords, the Cologne Absolue tells a story of a road trip through the cradle of American cinema, synonymous with success, fame and talent. Creators Sylvie Ganter and Christophe have created a sunny composition, lively and fresh, built around Clémentine from California. The scent sets off the sweet, citrusy fruit with green notes of juniper and the tang of mandarin. The end of the fragrance is equally wonderful, with an unexpected but gentle fiery heart of aromatic spices lending a beautiful texture. The heart of star anise mixed with a hint of pepper blends over a distinctively warm base of Haitian vetiver, sandalwood and cypress. Sizes: 30ml, RRP $99.00 and 100ml, RRP $180.00. Atelier Cologne’s fragrance portfolio is available at Myer’s Galerie de Parfum in Melbourne, Sephora Australia, Libertine Parfumerie and select boutiques and niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.
Weleda Calendula Face Cream Weleda Calendula Baby & Child care range introduces Calendula Face Cream - a certified organic face cream that gently protects and moisturises through organic calendula extract, skin-friendly lanolin and organic almond oil. The formulation includes over 95% organic and biodynamic ingredients and is 100% natural, dermatologically tested for even sensitive skin. Free from synthetic preservatives, fragrances, colourants or raw materials derived from mineral oils. Weleda Calendula Face Cream 50ml RRP $15.95 – a gentle, all-natural moisturiser that supports skin’s natural functions and keeps baby’s facial skin soft and smooth. Gluten free. From April at David Jones, selected health stores and pharmacies.
ESSANO CLARIFYING CLAY MASQUE New Zealand naturals brand Essano introduces Clarifying Clay Masque. Made with the world’s highest quality natural clay, the masque is designed to deeply cleanse, balance and purify the skin. The natural clays work to gently lift impurities, remove dead skin cells and clarify the dermal layer, leaving the skin feeling polished and smooth. To ensure moisturisation, it is enriched with Essano’s signature organic Rosehip Oil, which is packed with skin-loving essential fatty acids and essential nutrients that work to hydrate and replenish the skin. Gentle Aloe Vera soothes the skin while moisturising Shea Butter deeply hydrates dry skin from within, resulting in skin feeling soft, smooth, and looking radiant. Essano Clarifying Clay Masque, 100g. RRP: $16.99 – on shelf now.
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Benefit continues the party on counter with three cosmetic quickies. The lip liner is back – some would say it never went away – but today it’s matched to the lip shade rather than the outdated contrasted effect. Overall it gives an effect of fuller lips. Benefit launches They’re Real Double the Lip which combines lipstick and liner in one. The clever idea is in the tip – it is a custom-designed teardrop shape which allows lipstick and liner to be delivered to the lippies giving them the appearance of volume and dimension. There are eight shades. RRP $36.00. On counter now. They’re Real Duo Shadow Blender is a one-step eyeshadow duo. Again, it’s all in the applicator using perfectly paired powder eyeshadows. The powders are contained in the applicator handle. When the applicator is drawn across the eye, fitting in to the lid and socket, it delivers the complementary shades across the skin. There are eight universally flattering neutrals. RRP $40.00. On counter in June. Also from the fun fix-it brand is Benefit’s Cheek Parade collection of favourite cheek products. RRP $99.00. Available in May.
RIMMEL LONDON INSTA FIX & GO Rimmel introduces Insta Fix & Go, a 2 in 1 primer and setting spray to help makeup last longer while keeping it looking fresh all day long without the need for touch-ups. Combining a primer and setting spray into one handy product, Insta Fix & Go can be applied underneath makeup to work as a primer, or on top to lock makeup into place for up to eight hours. This 2 in 1 primer and setting spray is a quick-drying, oil-free formula that doesn’t leave skin feeling sticky or tight. Instead, it instantly feels refreshing on the face thanks to the cucumber extract, and helps to revive the skin’s texture for a freshly applied makeup look and feel all day long. Use before applying makeup to help revitalise skin; or after makeup to freshen up your look. On counter April, RRP$13.95 from Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W selected pharmacies, Coles and Woolworths.
BRAND NEWS
Benefit – 3 beauties
Elizabeth Arden Eyes Wide Open colour collection Arden’s Eyes Wide Open colour collection is all encompassing for a myriad of effects. Little Black Compact ($64.00 for two trios and palette. $28.00 for each interchangeable trio). The customer chooses a trio from a selection of complementary colours. Each set of the long-wear and crease-resistant formula features an enhance shade that can be used as a base, a define shade for contouring and a highlight shade to brighten and open eyes. Lasting Impression Mascara’s buildable formula delivers length, separation and definition. Using the power of Elizabeth Arden’s Ceramide technology, it envelops lashes to lengthen and thicken their look. The brush has five conic spheres that grab, coat and extend for long, fanned out lashes with each swipe. The formula is smudge proof, clump- and flake-free ($42.00). The Statement Brow Elizabeth Arden’s all-in-one tinted gel grooms, conditions, fills and shapes brows. The precision bristles and enhanced formula apply easily and smartly to hold brows in place all day. Shades: Blonde, Honey, Brown and Dark Brown ($32.00). Beeswax and Carnauba: Help to define and hold brows in place for long-lasting wear. Kaolin: A natural clay that provides texture to give brows shape and a fuller appearance. Kaolin, Nylon 12: Micro-spheres and synthetic polymers provide slip for easy application and smooth texture. Mineral Pigments and Pearls: A combination of mineral pigments and mica pearls naturally fills brows and reflects light to create subtle shine and dimension. Shea Butter and Grapeseed Oil: Provide moisturising and conditioning properties, as well as antioxidant protection so brows look their best. Silk and Panthenol: Rich with vitamin B5 and amino acids to help nourish and condition the brow hair. Rebecca Restrepo - Arden’s Global Makeup artist recommends: “To achieve full, natural brows, I always brush hair in the opposite direction of growth moving from the tail end to inner corner to thicken. Then I like to use the leftover pigment on the brush to comb brows back, up and out.” Both on counter in April.
Bourjois Healthy Mix Bourjois put its makeup expertise to work to revisit the formula of its beloved Healthy Mix foundation. The new version still offers all the sensory qualities and fresh fragrance of the range, but now has an improved formula that helps erase the signs of fatigue and brings on the glow. The new anti-fatigue formula, which contains a combination of Vitamins, C, E and B5, helps complexion look healthy and radiant. With coated pigments in the formula, new Healthy Mix provides a natural finish that lasts up to 16 hours and leaves skin feeling replenished. Dark circles and redness are concealed for a radiant complexion throughout the day. The creamy, light, non-comedogenic, feel-good formula of Healthy Mix blends with the skin to soften and smooth it. Skin ‘breathes easy’ with a bare-skin sensation, and yet it is perfectly uniform. The silky finish is natural and doesn’t cake. Healthy Mix Concealer has a fine, light texture that ensures a natural, undetectable finish. There are three shades. Bourjois Healthy Mix Foundation RRP$29 and Bourjois Healthy Mix Concealer RRP$20.00 are available from 10th May 2017 at Priceline.
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BRAND NEWS
Mecca Launches Eve Lom Skin smoothing science is the key driver for the launch of Eve Lom’s Time Retreat Collection Reveal. Eve Lom’s signature luxe skincare now has the added benefit of liposome encapsulated pure retinol. Each treatment penetrates deep into the skin to target and correct existing damage by encouraging cell turnover. Collagen production is stimulated, preventing new lines, wrinkles and age spots from forming. Skin is smooth, nourished and vibrant. Time Retreat Face Treatment, $144.00, 50ml, Time Retreat Eye Treatment, $95.00, 15ml and Time Retreat Hand Treatment, $67.00, 50ml. Available 4th April at Mecca Cosmetica.
DiorSnow DiorSnow makeup is described as a fresh burst of beauty. Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup, has created a collection designed to let the beauty blossom. It starts with a complexion budding with the bright, fresh perfection of springtime blossom Diorsnow Compact now features an innovative smart CCC texture: Corrects shadows and imperfections, Controls shine and ensures a long-lasting Comfort. Fusing with the skin, Diorsnow Compact comes in 6 shades. Three rosy blush shades spring to life in Blush’n’Bloom palette that literally blossoms with the hues of spring. Delicate petals of blush are sprinkled on a pearly powder that naturally enhances and illuminates the complexion. “A fresh, natural look with the stand-out Dior allure,” says Peter Philips, “Diorsnow blossoms with a ravishing colour collection, a range of delightful feminine hues that cast off the chills of winter and embrace the beauty of spring.” For the 1st time, Dior combines the brightening power of Edelweiss from the Dior Gardens with the renowned soothing power of Vitamin E in a next-generation micro infused lotion. On contact with the skin, the Vitamin E-infused micro-beads gently break up and fuse with the ultra - fresh liquid-gel texture. It melts perfectly into the skin, moisturising, clarifying and rebalancing it. The skin is instantly suppler, infinitely softer and naturally more radiant. Over time the complexion’s clarity is intensified and spots and shadow areas are visibly diminished, revealing radiant skin that appears illuminated from deep within. On counter April 3rd.
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MAX FACTOR MIRACLE WORKERS Max Factor Miracle Workers is a collection of four foundations designed to give all women healthy looking, youthful skin; no matter what her skin need. Mr. Max Factor’s personalised approach to Make-Up Artistry continues today, empowering women with the products and expertise to bring out her strongest features. This vision is at the heart of the Max Factor Miracle Workers; The Skin Smoother: for women suffering from uneven looking skin. The Tone Enhancer: for women looking to transform skin’s appearance with a seamless shade match. The Glow Getter: for women who suffer from dull, lack lustre looking skin. The Age Defier: Ageless Elixir Miracle Foundation - for women who suffer from aged, tired looking skin. Available in six shades, RRP $ $36.95. Max Factor Smooth Miracle Primer contains a hydrating formula that instantly smoothes the look of skin texture, RRP $31.95. Available nationwide from 1st April, from Target, Big W and participating independent pharmacy stores.
Bobbi Brown’s Liner “I wanted to create an everythingproof liner that’s high-impact and will stay put all day – through a tough workout, humid weather, and a night on the town.” Bobbi Brown. This highly-pigmented liner provides deep, fully-opaque coverage for all day wear without touch-ups. The twist-up design is created for precise application. Importantly: Long-Wear, TransferProof, & Smudge-Proof Technology means the formula is created with minimal oils and is tested in the most humid, demanding climates to ensure maximum staying power. RRP $42.00 at the Bobbi Brown Studio Mosman, selected Myer, David Jones and Maxima stores from April 2nd.
Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Rustic Charm The Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Rustic Charm collection is inspired by the allure of autumnal country landscapes, featuring sophisticated, classic colours that pop. The artisanal aesthetic of the collection features six limited edition chic and sweet shades, four of which are new: • Little Peony (barely pink, cotton candy tone); • Sweet Tea (provincial-pretty pale peach) • Bourbon Belle (prairie-pretty, deep peach shade) and • Frill Seeker (creamy neutral for country classic), along with • Terra-Coppa (warm copper) and • Mauve-olous (beigeinfused, medium pink tone). RRP $16.95 each, available beginning April 2016 from Priceline, Priceline Pharmacies, Target, Terry White Chemists, Chemist Warehouse and independent pharmacies nationally.
Dior’s J’Adore in Joy Dior’s new flanker to J’Adore (launched in 1999) is called J’Adore in Joy. Perfumer-inChief at Dior, François Demachy classifies it as an Eau de Toilette with solar, maritime and salty accents. “With J’adore in Joy, I created an original fruity-salty accord to make white flowers shine. It is said to literally smell of joy. J’Adore in Joy opens on a top accord of fleur de sel, a salt with a more complex and more subtle taste profile since it is unrefined and naturally harvested from the sea. The heart of neroli, tuberose, sambac jasmine and ylang-ylang leads to a gourmand and velvety base, with a note of peach mimicking the scent of a second skin. The bottle is quite glorious – recogniseable, the glass of the amphora is so fine that the delicious gold of the fragrance shimmers and shines thanks to a convex base that diffuses light.
The new Rimmel BB Cream Beauty Balm SPF15 comes in three skin-true shades: Light, Medium and Medium/Dark - each in a selfcoloured tube, making it easy to choose the right shade. On-shelf impact is achieved through packaging with hot pink foil graphics, plus a metallic blue cap. • The new formula has built-in water-gel technology that blends seamlessly with the skin, transfer-resistant with long lasting wear. • Weightless fluid texture, instant blendability and even coverage.
• Second skin effect: perfectly matches the skin’s natural tone. • 9-in-1 benefits: hydrates, primes, helps protect from UV, minimises appearance of pores, smoothes, conceals, mattifies, brightens, provides all-day comfort. RRP$13.95 - available from May 2017 from Priceline, Priceline Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse, Target, Kmart, BIG W, selected pharmacies, Coles and Woolworths.
BRAND NEWS
Rimmel BB Cream
Total Bae Perfect It! Napoleon Perdis Total Bae Concealer + Foundation Pot is a two-in-one concealer and foundation duo. Featuring a spatula applicator, the high coverage, paraben and fragrance free formula includes SPF10 and natural skin conditioning Fruit Extract Evodia Rutaecarpa. Antioxidant Vitamin E combined with a blend of esters and silicones assist in delivering a radiant, freshfaced and second skin feel. Flip the lid to visibly correct and conceal dark circles and blemishes with the in-built colour matched concealer with mini compact mirror. The subtle, creamy-matte formula features antioxidant Vitamin E and retains a sinuous, elastic softness to sync with skin, meaning product won’t set in fne lines or give the feeling or appearance of being dry. A makeup match made in heaven. RRP $49.00. Napoleon Perdis is available at Napoleon Perdis Concept Stores, David Jones, Myer and over 875 pharmacies and salons throughout Australia.
Tom Ford introduces SOLE DI POSITANO Tom Ford introduces SOLE DI POSITANO, a green citrus floral fragrance, its seventh EdP to join the Neroli Portofino Collection. Italian bergamot, petitgrain bigarade (bitter orange), lemon, and mandarin gleam with the sharp contrast of shiso leaf. Ylang ylang and sandalwood layer in the heart. The creamy yellow blossoms of ylang ylang oil bloom with the immense floral depth of jasmine absolute, muguet and orange flower. Soft musk and green moss deepen on skin with the classic sensuality of Tom Ford. The signature Private Blend Neroli Portofino glass bottle sees Sole di Positano’s flacon in a luminous aqua tourmaline glass, finished with a goldtoned label and cord at the neck. RRP 50ml EdP Spray, $340.00. Available from May 1st at selected David Jones, Myer, Sephora and Harrolds Luxury Department stores.
ELIZABETH ARDEN SCENT OF WHITE TEA Let’s set the scene: sunlit skin, crisp sheets, a good book, the first sip of tea… all simple pleasures, all intimately familiar. Elizabeth Arden introduces White Tea, a pure and uncomplicated new fragrance that invites you to revel in the moment and lose yourself in a warm memory. Perfumers & co-creators Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Guillaume Flavigny & Caroline Sabas, describe the inspiration for White Tea: “For this fragrance creation, we wanted to capture that refreshing moment of blissful solace experienced at the first sip of tea. White Tea Vapors and Sea Breeze Accord develop into the sweet smell of White Iris before finishing with the warm wood scent of Madras Wood, Tonka Bean and a delicately blended trio of musks.” A tall, refined bottle with clean lines and a white to clear ombré design conveys the purity and simplicity of White Tea. White Tea Eau de Toilette Spray $69.00 (100ml), $50.00 (50ml), White Tea Pure Indulgence Body Cream $29.00 (400ml), White Tea Pure Indulgence Bath and Shower Gel $29.00 (400ml), White Tea Pure Indulgence Hand Cream $19.00 (30ml). On counter April 2017.
Kismet by Lubin The prestigious and historic fragrance house, Lubin has unveiled Kismet, a reimagined version of its 1921 classic. The intoxicating scent was originally crafted by Lubin’s Monsieur Paul Prot for an enchanted, Indian princess. She reigned supreme over the Parisian parties of the twenties before one day vanishing, never to be seen again, and with only her scent remaining. Kismet’s reinterpretation is once again seductive and exotic, with the luxurious floral adding a touch of vintage elegance to the House of Lubin’s growing portfolio. The original bottle was showcased in an elephant-shaped Baccarat perfume bottle designed by Georges Chevalier, representing the prestige of its wearer and the scent itself, believing the elephant to be the noblest of all and representative of the princess. As an homage to this original creation, the modern release’s box is illustrated with an eastern elephant, while the flacon itself showcases Lubin’s classically feminine design. EdP 100ml, RRP $299.00. Available in Australia at Libertine Parfumerie, selected David Jones stores, Galerie de Parfum boutique’s in Myer Sydney and Melbourne and other niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.
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PRICELINE
the Beauty Prescription Live Priceline’s seasonal showing for the media of 70+ brand partner’s latest launches - Priceline – the Beauty Prescription Live – released official after-event media information entitled: “From perfect pouts to personal massagers”… six words that summarise the wide variety of inner and outer beauty & health products, stocked by Australia’s largest beauty retailer.
Let’s get the personal massagers ticked off the list first. esprit Magazine wrote about the Smile Makers range in the January issue (p44). It’s all about eschewing the stigma attached to products such as vibrators and stocking them in an environment where women are comfortable to make this personal purchase. Now…facts and stats on Priceline’s record breaking successes in beauty which demonstrate the retailer’s strongest touch points and sales successes. Mark O’Keefe - General Manager of Marketing, Priceline Pharmacy MC-ed the press presentation. Discussing leading trends and findings from their exploratory international retail research tour - the Trend Trip - Liz Webster - General Manager, Merchandise, Susie Bearzi - National Buying Manager, Beauty and Sarah Searle - National Buying Manager - Health & Private Label revealed innovations and embryonic trends to watch (pictured top right). The trio have been privy to emerging trends from some of the world’s leading innovations centres to understand what is literally on the drawing board for beauty and health. This is where the brightest minds are inventing things we’ve never thought of, before the marketing people come in and make it commercial. Media were given the low down on Priceline Pharmacy’s new 100% Woman campaign and support of women in sport, highlighted by Priceline Pharmacy’s newest Sister, Ellyse Perry, who has represented Australia over 200 times in the national cricket and soccer teams. The trade show filled with 70 product stands displaying new launches for 2017, product innovations, exclusives and cult favourites; across key categories of cosmetics, skincare, vitamins, medicinal health, haircare, accessories, fragrances, hands, feet & body, was heard to be described by media as ‘being like a kid in a candy store’ having all of their favourite brands ready and waiting to be sampled and chatted about.
01. SCHWARZKOPF – GRANT WITHNELL AND KATE BASKIN 02. PRICELINE – MARYANNE MCNAMARA, BUYER, COSMETICS AND JODIE PETHERICK, NATIONAL ACADEMY MANAGER, REPRESENTING OWN BRAND SAVVY BY DB
03. WAX AWAY – ALYCE FLANIGA AND CLAIRE TIMMONS 04. SALLY HANSEN (COTY) – RADEK STRZELECKI AND CLAIRE HAWKES 05. RIMMEL (COTY) – LYNDAL WILKINS, ASSISTANT BRAND MANAGER 06. OGX HAIRCARE – DANIEL MATTAR AND VANESSA FARRUGIA 07. NYX – JESS NUGYEN 08. NUDE BY NATURE – MIRELLA MAGRI AND LEANNE PARODI 09. NIP + FAB – SEBASTIAN SAGGIO 10. PRICELINE – EMMA HOGAN, BUYER, COSMETICS AND LINA HANNAWE, RETAIL BUSINESS MANAGER, REPRESENTING OWN BRAND, MODELS PREFER
11. LANOLIPS – GEORGIA COLLINS AND ELIANE BANDA, SHA PR 12. LA ROCHE-POSAY – RACHEL MCADAM AND JUSTIN LICHTBLAU 13. KATY KAT (COTY) – MEG HUTCHISON AND SHINTA HUYNH 14. CLINELLE (FROSTBLAND) – ROB MOSS AND GENEVIEVE MASLIN (PORTOBELLO PR) 15. ESSENCE (HEAT GROUP), VIV HENDERSON AND ISABELLA BURKE 16. ECO TOOLS/REAL TECHNIQUES (CHEM CORP) – ERICA GALEA AND LISA SOLOMONS (360 PR) 17. BURT’S BEES – FIONA MENDONCA, PRICELINE – SOPHIE GENOVESI AND BURT’S BEES – AMELIA MORISON
18. BOURJOIS – LAURE PICHON AND AINSLIE TEBBS 19. BONDI SANDS – ALEXANDRA PEEK 20. BLISTEX – LAUREN HUNTER AND TARA EDMONDS 21. ARDELL (FROSTBLAND) – RACHEL PITT (MAKEUP ARTIST), JACKSON DELANY (POLKADOT PR) AND TAILAH MAXWELL
22. AUSTRALIS – HANNAH BROOKE AND RHIANNON GREEN 23. BATISTE (CHURCH & DWIGHT) – SIMON AMOR AND ANTOINETTE O’DWYER 96|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
In 2016…
Women…
18,000
62%
products stocked across health & beauty
5300
colour cosmetics stocked: units sold: 2.6m – foundations; 3.4m lipsticks & glosses; 1.8m mascaras; 1m brow products; 1.7m eyeliners and 2.1m nail polishes. 2700 skincare - 2700 haircare - 2500 personal care - 1500 accessories - 1000 fragrances
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Beauty Experts
Stealing the spotlight and up-coming
Fudge – Clean Blonde Violet toning Shampoo and Real Techniques – Miracle Complexion Sponge Ingredients – customers care about what goes onto their skin and into their bodies K Beauty – bee venom, snake slime, purity of formulations, +11 steps to a skincare regime, double cleansing for the efficacy of the following serum step
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need a second opinion when buying beauty
89%
aren’t afraid to sweat through active pursuits
Priceline’s GIRLS campaign targets the men ‘she’ shops for
Pre poos – a prep step hair conditioner BEFORE shampooing which seeks out damage and targets it to repair
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Priceline stores across Australia Priceline Pharmacy’s first store opened in Victoria more than 30 years ago and today there are 442 stores nationally. Priceline’s Sister Club has over 6.4 million members, making it Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program. Priceline Pharmacy also supports charity partners through the Priceline Sisterhood Foundation – an initiative developed to support the health concerns that matter most to women.
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Travel sizes – with hand luggage restrictions, littlies for carry-on are a genuine help to customers Fashion designer collaborations – from Hollywood stars to bloggers with chatty communities
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442
Face Masks – the efficacy of sheet masks keeps getting better to infuse the skin. Hyaluronic remains a hero for moisturisation and activated charcoal is coming in as a deep cleanser Wearables – technology to integrate with mobile phones. ‘Everyone wants everything instantly all year round’. People are worried about what they ingest. Technology that you can tap into on your devices, such as your iPhone, give you accountability and the ability to track activities/progress
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TEEN STRETCH MARKS Top Tips for your
ADOLESCENT CUSTOMERS Those little silvery lines you can see on the sides of your tummy after losing weight are a badge of honour to the discipline required to achieve a weight goal. But something one could probably…possibly…do without. Along with weight loss, a number of other growing ‘pains’ also cause stretch marks. Here Dr Charlotte Middleton - Integrative Medical Practitioner shares knowledge on how to treat them. One way is with twice daily application of Bio-Oil.
1. Stretch marks (Striae) Stretch marks occur during periods of rapid changes in weight (e.g. teenage growth spurts, pregnancy) when the body expands faster than the skin covering it, causing internal tears in the skin tissue. When these tears repair themselves they form scars that are known as stretch marks.
2. Causes of stretch marks In medical terms stretch marks (striae) are simply another form of scarring, however, most people view them differently to scars. Striae are lines on the skin that develop as a result of rapid changes in weight of, for example, pregnant women, body builders, and 98|ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2017
adolescents during their growth spurt. They are caused by exactly what their name suggests - stretching. Lighter-skinned people tend to develop pinkish stretch marks, whereas darkerskinned people tend to have stretch marks that are lighter than the surrounding skin. The skin is naturally elastic. This elasticity is provided by the collagen and elastin in the dermis (underlying skin tissue). Collagen is made up of a group of naturally occurring proteins and is a key component of the body’s connective tissue. Elastin, which is also made up of naturally occurring proteins, is also found in connective tissue and provides the elastic properties of the tissue. This connective tissue enables the dermis to adapt to continuous movement of the body by expanding and contracting, but during periods of rapid weight gain it may have insufficient time to adjust, causing internal tears in the skin tissue. When these tears repair themselves they form the scars that we know as stretch marks. A useful analogy of this is that of a spring being stretched. If you stretch a spring within a certain range (known as its natural elastic limit) it contracts back to its original size time and again. However, if you overstretch the spring beyond its natural elastic limit, it becomes permanently stretched and will not spring back to its original size. Although stretch marks do not represent a significant medical problem, they can cause emotional distress to those who develop them. The likelihood of developing them varies according to skin type, age, heredity, diet and the hydration of the skin.
Dr Charlotte Middleton – says: “I see a lot of teenagers who have developed stretch marks due to the rapid rate at which their body is growing. During puberty, adolescents can experience rapid growth spurts in height or weight, and certain body parts such as the breasts, thighs and tummy can develop quite quickly and so can be prone to stretch marks. It can affect both males and females, although it is more common amongst female teenagers”.
3. How to prevent & treat stretch marks “Prevention is the best medicine when it comes to stretch marks. Unfortunately there is not a lot you can do about your skin type, genetics, age or family history. But there is a lot you can do about your skin condition and its elasticity. Keeping the skin soft and supple with the regular application of creams or oils, well hydrated by consuming good amounts of water and well nourished by eating a diet rich in vitamins A, C and E – will all reduce your risk of stretch marks. It is never too late to treat stretch marks, but obviously the longer you have them, the more difficult it will be to completely erase them. Treatment options include: topical creams and oils, radiotherapy, laser therapy, dermabrasion, injectables and in some cases, surgical removal. Stretch marks in no way pose a threat, but a lot of women feel self-conscious, worried or even ashamed about them. In these instances, they should seek advice from their GP.”
Bio-Oil® is Australia’s No.1 selling scar and stretch mark product.
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Aztec Segment and item list as defined by Aspen Pharmacare, based on the AU Grocery & Pharmacy Scan Combined Data within the Hand & Body Skin Care Database. This is based on 12 months of AU Grocery & Pharmacy Scan Combined Data, AU Grocery & AU Pharmacy Data to 23rd October 2016