esprit issue 61 July 2019 by esprit Magazine Australia

PHARMACY & DEPARTMENT STORE RETAIL BEAUTY TRADE JOURNAL

ISSUE 61 JULY 2019

TOP LEVEL TALKS WITH

Sue Price Head of Beauty Buying – MYER

TALKING Point WINTER WEATHER RELIEF COMMUNITY PHARMACIES, DEPARTMENT STORES AND INDIE RETAILERS ARE OUR

readership heartland

COFFEE CONVERSATION WITH

Tijana Desancic – Core Metrics

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EDITOR’S LETTER I don’t get hot under the collar very often. I take things, pretty much, in my stride. With my accumulated years comes experience…it’s easier to observe the latest ‘thing’ taking its natural course - either becoming adopted far and wide or fizzling out and we all settle back in to the previous status quo. But when I see a contrivance that preys on a person’s vulnerabilities in order to sell something to them, I do then feel the heat building around my collar. Jumping to conclusions is not my style. We named our new publishing company, Percolate Media, as a nod to how we approach making business decisions. Naturally we make a few snap “let’s do it” and “nope, not us” choices along the way, but looking into subjects and researching is important for us, as esprit evolves. SO. I was recently asked to acquaint myself with an app. To do this I was required to spend about five minutes inputting some details about my skin’s current state; an instantaneous, automatic diagnosis delivered a product prescription and from this the brand could courier the items over to me to use and improve my skin. An efficient service. To a member of the beauty industry. My ‘user experience’ done and dusted. I slept on it. I woke up with an uncomfortable feeling lodged in my gut. This feeling began the night before when the app delivered its instant, personalised result on the state of my skin, followed by the customised prescription of products to buy. OK for me with the courier on its way. But for the general public using the app - a younger 4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Walkin’ talkin’ Living Doll millennial or Gen Z - they need to click onto the products and place their order to receive the products through the post. I had become uncomfortable in my gut early in the five-minute, so-called diagnostic process. It hit when I received the two-word description of my skin’s state along with a low grading (the lower the better). Not bad. But it seemed blunt and a little impersonal. As I note earlier, I can take things in my stride. But what about the general public…a consumer? Imagine them in the privacy … aloneness…of their bathroom, and they get a diagnosis that hits them in their gut, like mine did. And then add to this the prescription of products that ‘will empower them to take control of their skincare concerns’ … for around $100-$120. Really? Is that what we’ve come down to in skincare analysis? While the app does make reference to not taking away from professional services and consultations, what is the point of it then? To make a fast buck. Rather than empower a person, it just may trigger a jolt in confidence or even a mental health issue. With our digital age, these impersonal connections are easily possible, but are they the way we, as an industry, want to take them? With a diagnostic app there’s no hand holding, no eye contact, none of the nuances of face-to-face conversation, no tone of voice, no brain busily processing all this and making up its mind, no intuition and no emotion. This dance of mental processing and physical touch that builds trust, or otherwise, is a key part of our Beauty Advisor consultations that are the soul of our relationships with the people we call our valued customers.

Technology should evolve of course, but today’s global, grumbling distrust of a few brands’ and social sites’ business models, is brewing for a reason. Apps and social media are engineered to prey on our feelings about community’s approval. They are built to capture people’s eyes and have slotmachine-like features geared to be addictive. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. There are indicators - ‘a like’ or an emoji heart - that we get addicted to counting. Pretty harmless when compared to an app suggestion of a personalised prescription that sees you reaching for your credit card to buy over a hundred bucks worth of products that will last you a month or so, before you repeat your purchase. What if your app customer hasn’t got a credit card or can’t afford it? Bittersweet. Long live the human touch…the faceto-face consultations that our stalwart Beauty Advisors, Pharmacy Owners and Assistants enter into every day. Tens of times a day they guide a kind of show and tell as their Livin’ Doll shares her personal information. And then, only then, does she receive her personalised prescription which will be introduced to her with products being applied to the back of her hand. Only through this touchy-feely, two-way experience does your guest transition to a paying customer. To be treasured.

issue

61 Contents

COVERSTORY – C • LAB & CO – 10 The back story to C • Lab & Co plus the latest launches. Tijana Desancic, Sales & Marketing Director, Core Metrics shares the heritage and newness from the original coffee scrub brand

TREND – CLEAN BEAUTY – 14 With the global Clean Beauty market expected to double from US$11 billion in 2016 to US$22 billion by 2024, this is a burgeoning trend not a passing fancy

C • Lab & Co When C • Lab & Co originally launched in retail stores, as a pioneer, people thought that coffee scrubs were a fad says Tijana Desancic, Sales and Marketing Director for Core Metrics. “Today it’s the number one coffee scrub on the retail market and with the biggest size at 330g. Customers also love the fact that it doesn’t contain sugar, especially if they are prone to dermatitis”. Core Metrics has added two new SKUs to the C • Lab & Co franchise - Coffee Body Lotion and Coffee Body Wash. Ranged in Priceline since May in user-friendly 300ml pump packs, $19.95 and $14.95 respectively, they reflect the growing premiumisation of bodycare and appeal to both sexes. “Men, too, suffer from dry skin and even more from blemishes on the back and chest, which respond well to the antioxidant and antiinflammatory benefits of coffee-based scrubs, lotions and body washes”. See pages 10 + 11.

Contact details esprit Magazine Australia Editor Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au

INTERVIEW – SUE PRICE, GROUP GENERAL MANAGER, BEAUTY MYER – 16 Top Level Talks with MYER Group General Manager, Beauty, Lingerie and Sleepwear, Sue Price: “What I really love about my job is the fact that beauty is such an international business with broadbased global strategies”

Previous issues

TALKING POINT – SKINCARE, WINTER WEATHER RELIEF – 22 Peer conversations in what’s trending, new launches and hero actives

BOOK REVIEW – MICHAEL EDWARDS – 32 Perfume Legends II launches in September 2019

BUYERS LISTS – RETAILER ‘HOT HITS’ – 34 Terry White Chemmart and My Chemist Warehouse beauty buyer’s faves

INDUSTRY NEWS – 38 From labelling regulations, to retail pop-up successes, a Community Trade initiative to pioneering packaging

Sales & Marketing Director Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au

COMMUNITY PHARMACY INTERVIEW – MCDONALD’S PHARMACY, ST. IVES – 54

Junior Online Journalist Sarah Mourtos M: +61 (0) 416 300 380 E: sarah@esprit-magazine.com.au

Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s member, Jacinta McDonald – discusses “getting high on health”

BUSINESS – ESPRIT’S EXPERTS – 62 Sharing stories and tactics for building your business

Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au

MY JOURNEY – JOYCE SHU, CHRISTIAN DIOR – 72

NEW MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia

OUT & ABOUT – 74

Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 Issue 61: ISSN 1449-8018

Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips. Go to: www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

ESPRITMAGAZINEAUSTRALIA @ESPRITMAGAZINE

The rich pageant unfolds that is the beauty media’s working playground

INFLUENCER – 82 Strategies for building your career as a Beauty Assistant… esprit champions you as the True Influencer

BRAND NEWS – 96 A round-up of new products

Expert

Contributors ELISABETH KING ICY LING AINSLIE WALKER

MICHAEL BROWN JUDY DEUCHAR ACCORD

Associate Editor

Business Features

JUDY DEUCHAR

MICHAEL BROWN

Judy Deuchar – Head of Merchandising/Programming at TVSN has an intrinsic, instinctive, intuitive understanding of brands, and even more importantly, HOW TO BUILD BRANDS. In her esprit Magazine Australia columns she shares her expertise to fire your inspiration whether you have a brand in the making or an existing brand ready to go to the next level, to guide your understanding of what it takes to have a successful lifecycle. With a background stemming from the UK, formerly with TV Shopping Channel mammoth, QVC, Judy brings extensive experience in brand building and retailing.

Growing up as a dancer in Perth, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘Art’ of Make-up Artistry and in 2001 he landed his first role in retail cosmetics as an event make-up artist. Michael’s career as a travelling makeup artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney in 2006 where he became a National Makeup Artist and Makeup Trainer for AUS/NZ. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him wide exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene, that when he went freelance in 2012, his journey was only at the beginning…Michael is now not only a Celebrity Makeup Artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as beauty voice at rescu.com.au.

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to leading newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book - Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.

Calling Beauty Assistants WANT TO WRITE FOR ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA? You’re our readers but why not write for us too? Send in a few lines on your suggestions. We want to hear about your life on the shop floor – events, challenges, your successes – whether it’s a sparkly department store or a busy community pharmacy – so long as it’s beauty focussed. Contact Andrea andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au

ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’. After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.

esprit CAREE R S ONLINE

Log on to www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au/ careers for all the latest jobs in beauty

Coffee Time

C ·Lab & Co Expands Range to Triple Skincare Benefits by Elisabeth King

One of the major dilemmas facing beauty brands today is deciding whether a trend has long-term legs or is just a fleeting Instagram craze. There’s a real danger of jumping in too enthusiastically with large quantities or being too slow to market. When we originally launched C · Lab & Co in retail stores, as one of the first to do so people thought that coffee scrubs were a fad says Tijana Desancic, Sales and Marketing Director for Core Metrics. “Today it’s the number one coffee scrub on the retail market and with the biggest size at 330g. Customers also love the fact that it doesn’t contain sugar, especially if they are prone to dermatitis”.

A significant trend that has reignited consumer interest in coffee scrubs is the booming demand for vegan beauty. According to a new report from Grand View Research, the global vegan beauty market is expected to reach US$20.8 billion by 2025. Skincare products are the largest sector in terms of revenue, with a market share of close to 40 per cent, says the data tracker. The US vegan beauty market alone is predicted to exceed US$3 billion over the next five years. DEFINITIVE VEGAN PRODUCTS/UNISEX APPEAL

C • Lab & Co Coffee Scrub is a definitive vegan bodycare product, says Desancic. “It only contains up to 10 ingredients or less and comes in a large 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

tub to reduce excess packaging. Younger consumers, in particular, are looking for environmentallyconscious products that suit their lifestyles and ethics and are cruelty-free”. “Our coffee scrub is a unique blend of ‘just cracked’ roasted and ground coffee”, she adds. “This method allows the coffee beans to retain their natural oils for added potency. By contrast to other coffee scrubs on the market, these natural oils are partnered with organic Vitamin E oil and sea salt, not sugar which can be abrasive, especially for those with sensitive skin. C • Lab & Co coffee scrub is not only 100 per cent natural, the formula consists of 40+ per cent coffee beans for maximum benefits to the skin”.

chest, which respond well to the antioxidant and antiinflammatory benefits of coffee-based scrubs, lotions and body washes”. PREMIUMISATION DRIVING THE BODYCARE MARKET

Both the premiumisation and veganism trends have fuelled sales of bodycare in recent years. According to Gabriella Beckwith, beauty and fashion analyst for Euromonitor, global bodycare represents only 14 per cent of total

skincare. “But consumers are being encouraged by brands and social media to devote time and money toward bodycare in line with the holistic wellness movement. Consumers are willing to invest more in premium products, as evidenced by premium bodycare growing faster than mass”. Jo Lawler, global skincare analyst at Mintel, the global market research firm, confirms that premium bodycare products are related to the

COVER STORY

Core Metrics has added two new SKUs to the C • Lab & Co franchise - Coffee Body Lotion and Coffee Body Wash. “Both of them have been ranged in Priceline since May and are available in userfriendly 300ml pump packs. Priced at $19.95 and $14.95, respectively, they reflect the growing premiumisation of bodycare. The pump packs are also appealing to both sexes. Men, too, suffer from dry skin and even more from blemishes on the back and

work-life balance philosophy and expects to see more and more indie adaptogenic brands entering the market. “Adaptogenic products adapt to the needs of the user, helping stress reduction and re-balance”. C • Lab & Co is positioned for this continued growth in global premium bodycare, which is driven by multibenefits, performance and lifestyle values.

STRONG INSTAGRAM FOCUS/EXPORT MOVES

10 Major Benefits of Coffee Bodycare ✓ Coffee scrubs reduce the appearance of cellulite. The caffeine boosts dilation and the scrubbing motion stimulates circulation. Both actions plump up the skin and make cellulite look less noticeable. ✓ Research at the University of Sao Paolo in Brazil has proven that the regular use of a skin cream containing coffee reduced the amount of cellulite fat cells by 17 per cent. A 2015 study published in the Annals of Dermatology revealed that 86 per cent of subjects who used a cream containing caffeine reported a decrease in cellulite in just 6 weeks. ✓ Caffeine is a stimulant for hair follicles. Rubbing coffee scrub into the scalp removes dead skin cells which inhibit hair growth. In addition to stronger follicles, the hair is softer and shinier. ✓ Coffee is packed with antioxidants which promote healthier skin tone all over the body. These include plant-based phenols which help to ward off damaging free radicals linked to premature ageing. ✓ The combination of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory chlorogenic acids in coffee help to fight acne. Massaging the back with coffee scrub may help to clear acne - spots on the back - and reduces unsightly redness. ✓ Exfoliating the body regularly with a coffee scrub has short and long term effects. The skin instantly becomes brighter and smoother owning to the removal of dry, dead skin. But regular use helps the skin to work more efficiently in expelling toxins for overall functional benefits. ✓ In addition to fighting free radicals, studies have shown that the antioxidants in coffee scrubs and body lotion can help to boost cell turnover and combat sunspots and hyperpigmentation on the body. ✓ Caffeine is a natural diuretic and using coffee-based products dehydrates the fat cells of the body, leading to an overall tighter appearance to the skin. ✓ Sensitive, dry and inflamed body skin affects both men and women. Caffeine helps to calm and soothe irritated skin.

C • Lab & Co has been focused on social media and events to get its unique selling proposition across, says Desancic. “In 2016, we took part in the gifting suite and supplied over 300 samples to leading celebrities at the Academy Awards in Hollywood. We scored headlines like Scrub of the A-List in the Herald Sun newspaper and radio interviews on Nova 100 and KIIS FM before and after the Oscars”. According to a Facebook study, 37 per cent of Millennials focus on Instagram for beauty, inspiration, looks and trends. Instagram has also conducted a large-scale survey and discovered that its users are twice as likely to be passionate about beauty. “Many of C • Lab & Co’s customers look to Instagram and we use the platform to promote the range and recent introductions such as the 100g travel sachets of the original scrub and the coffee and coconut version”, adds Desancic. “Because of such major benefits as targeting cellulite, Instagram posts and other social media activity focus on healthy-looking body skin”. Export strategies are top of mind for C • Lab & Co. Indonesia is the fastest-growing beauty market in Asia and Sociolla has become the country’s first beauty retailer to stock imported brands such as Marc Jacobs and Shiseido. Imported brands have soared in popularity in Indonesia with sales exceeding US$440 million. “We have just recently launched C • Lab & Co on Sociolla, which ranks as the Indonesian version of Sephora and Adore Beauty”, says Desancic. “Our expansion into Russia, which also distributes our Pure Paw Paw products, is seeing exceptional sales results. We are hoping for the same success with C • Lab & Co. Our New Zealand market is growing very nicely too.”

CALLING RETAILERS - CONTACT US FOR STOCKIST ENQUIRIES: Email: info@core-metrics.com.au Phone: 03 9484 4485 Website: www.clabandco.com.au Social: IG: @c_labandco FB: /clabandco

✓ Using C • Lab & Co coffee scrub, lotion and body wash amplifies the benefits of caffeine and hydrates the skin. Hydrated skin is less prone to itchiness, dryness and irritation.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |11

Clean Beauty GLOBAL MARKET PREDICTED TO REACH US$22 BILLION by Elisabeth King

The days are long gone when the terms green, natural and organic covered all bases for consumers looking for cosmetics and beauty products that are as free of chemicals as possible. Over the past three years, vegan and clean beauty have muscled in on the fast-growing market that caters for people of all ages focused on overall health, the environment and what they put on their skin. According to international data tracker, Statista, the global clean beauty market is expected to double from US$11 billion in 2016 to US$22 billion by 2024. Clean beauty might be a siren call to younger, ethically minded demographics, but the term has no industry-wide definition. Most brands in the space claim the label for products that don’t contain natural or synthetic ingredients such as sulfates, parabens, formaldehydes, pthalates and mineral oil. All familiar no-nos in what is known as free-from claims. But a fact that is often obscured in commentary about the clean beauty movement is that products can include man-made ingredients because the focus is on safety not source.

Major Focus on Safety / Global Retailer Initiatives

In June 2018, Sephora launched Clean at Sephora, which badged more than 2000 products as ‘clean’, according to the world’s largest specialist beauty chain – now with an upgrade on the list of ingredients forbidden in products that receive the clean stamp 12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Guidance for Consumers / Four Key Points

In April, the prestigious Good Housekeeping Beauty Lab underscored the point that there was a significant cross-over of claims between clean beauty brands and products and those labeled natural, all-natural, organic, naturally derived, chemical-free, non-toxic and sustainable. With the clean beauty concept in such demand, how do consumers choose the right products? The Good Housekeeping Beauty Lab narrowed decision-making down to four important steps. Today’s consumers give a lot of consideration to where ingredients originate and sustainability. A major information source, advises the Beauty Lab, is the Made Safe Hazard List (madesafe. org), curated by a non-profit organisation as America’s first comprehensive human health-focused certification for non-toxic

Fewer Ingredients / Detox Trend / Scientists Weigh In

The detox trend in diet and beauty has also impacted clean beauty, says Victoria Buchanan, senior strategic researcher at The Future Laboratory, the world’s leading trend forecasters. “As consumers continue to scrutinise what is in the products they put on their skin, zero irritants will become the new standard of natural beauty. An obsession with detoxification is also fueling demand for stripped-back, ‘clean’ ingredients”. An attitude that is also behind the rise of beauty and personal care products which contain fewer ingredients. Mintel reports that 21 per cent of US consumers now look for skincare products with as few ingredients as possible because of the increasing incidence of sensitive skin. Many consumers equate the clean beauty concept with formulas with less ingredients and an increasing number of brands in the category are touting the fact that they use ‘less aggressive’ actives. Cult US brand, Drunk Elephant, which is sold in Australia through Mecca, is a standard bearer for clean beauty and

TREND REPORT

taking effect from this month (July 2019). The initiative does give guidance where European brands are concerned because the European Union introduced legislation that banned more than 1300 ingredients considered to be unsafe for use in cosmetics. In the US, though, laws concerning cosmetic safety have not changed in recent years. But the Personal Care Products Council, which comprises most of the major US cosmetic brands, emphasises that personal care products remain one of the safest product categories regulated by the US Food & Drug Administration. In an official statement, the council confirms that the industry takes its responsibility for product safety very seriously. Adding that consumers can continue to use personal care products they have used and trusted for more than 100 years. Other leading retailers in Australia and overseas have followed Sephora’s path in identifying clean beauty brands for their customers. Last August, Mecca organised a clean beauty roundtable to discuss the booming category. In the US, Bloomingdales, the upscale department store, debuted WellChemist, an edited collection of clean beauty brands. But there’s even doubt whether clean beauty is a standalone sector at all. The Global Wellness Institute takes a broader viewpoint and considers the trend as an integral part of the US$1.1 trillion global wellness industry, which covers anti-ageing products, spa and well-being services and even wellness tourism.

products from babycare to cosmetics, personal care and household. The list is also invaluable to retailers in the US and overseas when selecting brands and products that truly fit the clean beauty label, especially as some of the world’s biggest multinationals such as Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson and so many niche brands come from the US. Products that are dye and fragrance-free are better for the environment, too, because they use fewer ingredients which can cause irritations in sensitive skin. Sustainability has become a crucial selling point in beauty and personal care, more so when it comes to clean beauty. Not only for ingredients and their supply chains, but also for packaging. Minimal packaging is a major point of difference for clean beauty brands and the materials used should be recyclable. Even though many of the mainstream beauty and personal care brands from the largest multinationals to startups are contributing to environmental causes or giving back through donations, buying brands that detail their giving back strategies and initiatives is non-negotiable for anyone entering the clean beauty category, says Good Housekeeping. Mintel backs up this stance. According to the researcher, 57 per cent of shoppers would buy - or boycott - a brand depending on its ethical values. A recent report from Nielsen reveals that 65 per cent of global beauty and personal sales are generated by brands with social and environmental values.

emphasises the importance of a minimalistic skincare routine. The brand has vetoed what it calls the “suspicious six”- essential oils, drying alcohols, silicones, fragrance and dyes, chemical screens and sodium laurel sulfate, which it claims cause every skin problem the founder, Tiffany Masterson, has ever seen. Another major point of difference for many clean beauty brands is a stronger focus on clinical testing, especially by independent testing companies. Clare Hopkins, co-founder of the UK brand, Balance Me, says it’s not always important to have every active in a product at a high concentration, but clinical testing is the key. “Some actives may even aggravate if levels are too high or add unnecessary costs”. Because many of the proponents of clean beauty are influencers or celebrities, not dermatologists or scientists, there is a growing number of accusations that it is just a gimmick or a ‘made-up slogan’. More and more scientists and dermatologists in the UK and the US are challenging the main message that ‘chemicals’ are bad and ‘clean’ is good. The final word goes to David Colquhoun, former professor of pharmacology at University College London and a longterm critic of pseudo-science and alternative medicine, who says that if people have the money to buy clean beauty products it’s their individual choice and they certainly won’t do themselves any harm.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |13

Clairol Covers Roots in Just 10 Minutes! As the dominant brand in the Roots Category, Clairol strides forward with a convenient, and lasting, solution to regrowth and first greys – Clairol Root Touch-Up Color Blending Gel joins the brand’s comprehensive portfolio, meeting an unmet need in the Roots Market.

and permanent root touch-ups. With this option, Clairol now covers off all your customers’ hair colouring needs.

HOW IT WORKS Clairol’s first ever semi-permanent, reusable colour blending gel goes straight for the customers’ key demands: simplicity with results. It’s a brush-on, ready-made formula. No mixing! And leaves hair soft, shiny and free of damage.

Few of us welcome the appearance

means it doesn’t need to be reapplied

Keeping customer convenience front of

of those first grey hairs. We try and

after every wash. Great for salon-goers

mind, the reusable formula and twist &

squeeze in a trip to the salon as quickly

or dedicated DIYers, the semi-permanent

lock cap can be kept for whenever their

as possible. But life sometimes gets

formula blends into their existing colour

roots need a quick refresh...fresh to reuse

in the way and being mindful of our

giving a professional look. It gradually

at will, so true value for money. And no

budget, time and money may prevent

fades over 10 washes, allowing your

shampooing required!

regular, professional salon colouring

customers to prolong the time between

sessions. The roots remain and the

their colouring sessions.

CLAIROL COVERS OFF ALL HAIR COLOUR CONCERNS

GETTING TO THE ROOT OF THE WHY

This launch positions Clairol as the go-to

Grey hair can come at any time with

root products to cover every stage of

Utilising its expertise in the Roots Segment,

numerous women recalling the sighting

the colour cycle, with the most extensive

Clairol has created an effective solution that

of their first greys before they reach their

format range: permanent, semi-permanent

keeps roots looking fresh at every stage of

30th birthday. And many of these women

and temporary offerings, and solutions for

the colouring cycle…at home and at $17.99

don’t do anything to touch-up their roots

last minute touch ups, on-the-go, salon

for a reusable, no fuss, pre-mixed - Root

between salon visits. One reason – they

holdovers and permanent fixes.

Touch-Up Color Blending Gel.

simply don’t have time. Life for most of us is

greying grows. It’s an added life stress. That’s why Clairol has focused its attention on developing a solution.

Coming from the original root colour

colour brand for a complete portfolio of

Clairol Root Touch-Up Color Blending

fast paced. A clear gap in the market for a

Gel is available for $17.99 at pharmacy

brand, new Root Touch-Up Color

high calibre high convenience colour option

retailers: Chemist Warehouse & Priceline.

Blending Gel is a semi-permanent formula

became Clairol’s focus. The result: Clairol

that is the perfect quick-fix solution

Root Touch-Up Color Blending Gel. Fulfilling

FOR MORE INFORMATION

for first greys and last-minute ‘roots

a previously unmet consumer need, this fits

Visit Clairol.com.au to see more

emergencies’. Lasting up to 10 washes

in between one-wash temporary solutions

information on the full roots portfolio.

14| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

A BRUSH WITH CHANGE

AT MYER

SUE PRICE GROUP GENERAL MANAGER, BEAUTY, LINGERIE AND SLEEPWEAR - MYER

IN CONVERSATION WITH SUE PRICE

by Elisabeth King

Sue Price describes herself as a passionate merchant. The Group General Manager, Beauty, Lingerie and Sleepwear at Myer certainly has the resumé to back up the statement. She has been in her current role for 18 months and her prime goal is to further boost and strengthen the department store chain’s competitiveness and beauty offer. What I really love about my job is the fact that beauty is such an international business with broad-based global strategies, she adds. 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

A highly skilled retail executive, Price has worked on three continents - Africa, Europe and Australia - since graduating with a degree in Business Science from the University of Cape Town. She began her career in menswear in South Africa before moving to the UK to become Planning Manager at Freemans, the British catalogue clothing retailer now owned by the Germany-based OTTO Group, one of the world’s largest home shopping organisations. In the early Noughties, Price became Merchandise Planning Manager/Head of Merchandising for the iconic British department store chain, Debenhams, a position she held for eight years. “That’s where my love of cosmetics truly began”, she says. “The industry is so focused on empowering women and making them feel beautiful. A momentum that also flows to the major gifting occasions such as Mother’s Day and Christmas”.

TOP LEVEL TALKS

Largest Department Store Footprint/Attracting Younger Customers Price relocated to Australia in 2014 to take up the position of Merchandise Manager for beauty, childrenswear and nursery at Target Austalia. “The role was my first exposure to the mass market and expanded my skillset. Because of my strong background in apparel in South Africa and the UK, I became General Manager Apparel Planning at Myer in 2016. My job was to build and maintain strong brand partnerships and was very strategic across financial, forecasting and planning. At the beginning of 2018, I moved into my current role which fulfilled a long-held aspiration to become head of beauty at Myer”. Myer has the largest department store footprint and is dominant in the prestige beauty market, says Price. “Myer has very strong relationships and partnerships with the major beauty brands, but we are not complacent. Over the past few years, Mecca and Sephora have become significant competitors, as have online operators such as Adore Beauty. We are looking to attract younger customers and are increasingly stocking new and exciting brands”. Growing and building the business involves staying on top of global beauty trends in products and retailing, says Price. “Over the past six months, I have been to South Korea twice because so many new trends and products originate there. I have also been to London and New York and will shortly be visiting Dallas, the headquarters of the Neiman Marcus Group. Our strategy is not only to find out what’s new but what is most likely to do well in the local market in order to offer a curated collection of the best in beauty to our customers”.

Strength of MYER One/Growing Importance of Chinese Market

Newness might be an umbrella goal, but Price believes that brands must have a unique DNA and story to tell. Last May (2019), Myer ranged the fast-moving makeup removal brand, Face Halo, across 60 stores and online. Sand & Sky, the Australian pioneer of clean beauty, has also proved popular. In August, Myer entered an agreement with Aesop as the exclusive department store retailer for the brand. “I believe strongly in exclusives”, says Price. “They help to drive customers to stores and create a great point-of-difference from rivals”. MYER One is one of the most popular loyalty programs in Australia with more than five million members. According to Stocard, an app that allows users to store loyalty cards on their mobiles, MYER One ranks third in its database of 1.7 million users. Over 75 per cent of MYER One members are women and the program accounts for up to 70 per cent of the spend at some Myer stores. “MYER One has a very strong data base, which rewards our best customers and is relevant and valuable to them”, says Price. Myer differs from competitor David Jones by offering affordable luxury, says Price. “That means we provide customers with cult startup brands like The Ordinary from Deciem all the way up to Clarins, Chanel, Dior, SK-II and Lancôme. This enables us to reach out to the luxury-loving Chinese tourist market, especially in our flagship stores in Sydney and Melbourne where sell-through rates have soared. We are also on WeChat, the Chinese messaging, social media and payment app, and have increased the number of Mandarin-speaking BAs in key stores”.

Moving Away from Discounting/Online Sales Growth CEO John King delivered Myer’s first underlying profit growth in eight years a couple of months ago by pulling away from discounting to boost gross margins, exiting unprofitable product categories and cutting costs and debt. “We have a strong beauty profile and we will not be blanket discounting”, says Price. “Our focus will be on providing even more services for customers and targeting major selling promotions such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Boxing Day”. E-commerce sales have experienced significant growth, says Price. “Our online beauty offer has been transformed. We are changing content on the site more frequently. Our CRM (customer relationship management) is more segmented, fueled by the strength of the MYER One database. We have also made it easier for customers to shop online using whatever device they prefer with an increased emphasis on mobiles”. Myer is very much a customer-first company and our partner brands have invested heavily in training, adds Price. “We ensure that the BAs in our stores have all the back-up and help they need, not only to assist customers with their purchases but also in speaking their language. We drill down to demographics of the suburbs surrounding individual stores. We not only look after our Mandarinspeaking customer, we also encourage our counter staff and BAs to use other languages they speak, such as Lebanese, for example”.

Ultimate Beauty Destination

Prestige beauty is on a roll worldwide, says Price. “More exclusive agreements, like the one with Aesop, are very much top of the agenda. One of our most exciting recent offerings is Lancer, the unrivaled anti-ageing skincare range from celebrity US dermatologist, Dr Harold Lancer, whose fans include Kim Kardashian and Ellen DeGeneres. Another cult brand is Coco & Eve, which has become a firm favourite through its all-natural coconut and fig hair mask”. But, as everyone knows, 20 percent of SKUs deliver 80 per cent of sales and Myer is known as the ultimate beauty destination for proven products and franchises such as Lancôme Absolue and Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair, adds Price. “My main goal is to increase Myer’s market share and to maximise every brand we offer”.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |17

Burt's Bees'

Winter Skincare Facing the cold with soothing winter skincare.

Open fires, snuggly woollens and warm soup are all welcome winter comforts. Skin also needs some relief from the season’s nip in the air, to soothe away redness caused by the winter winds and restore the moisture it is losing. As the season changes, along with our wardrobe you’ll be seeing more customers on a mission to step up their skincare to face the cold head on. Burt’s Bees brings the power of nature to support the skin through the changing seasons with their sensitive skincare range and moisturising products.

HERE’S OUR 2-MINUTE BURT’S BEES WINTER SKINCARE TIPS

For calming comfort in the cold, consider: •A gentler cleanser to soothe more sensitive skin. Key ingredient aloe, soothes skin while the cotton extract shields from irritants; Burt’s Bees Sensitive Skin Facial Cleanser. • Say goodbye to irritation and redness with a new night-time nourishing moisturiser that is gentle to sensitive skin; Burt’s Bees Sensitive Skin Night Cream. • Support the delicate eye area and reduce puffiness with the sensitive skin eye cream; Burt’s Bees Sensitive Skin Eye Cream.

This range is 99% natural

40% off

the range from 5th to 15th July in Priceline.

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esprit Magazine promotion

Say goodbye to irritation and redness. Aloe soothes, while cotton shields skin from irritants. Allergy and dermatologist tested.

• Adding a few drops of complete nourishment facial oil before your moisturiser at night to deliver essential fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants to provide extra nourishment; Burt’s Bees Complete Nourishment Facial Oil. • Gently and quickly remove dirt, oil and make-up using towelettes designed for sensitive skin. Soften and soothe with cotton extract, rice extract and aloe while cleansing and toning your skin in one simple step; Burt’s Bees Sensitive Facial Towelettes. • Regularly boost long lasting hydration and restore natural pH with the no fuss sheet mask with clary sage; Burt’s Bees Hydrating Face Sheet Mask. • Throughout the day indulge in a luscious lip balm to keep the pout protected; Burt’s Bees Ultra Moisturising Lip Balm.

SOME ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS: • Have they changed their skincare range or still using the summer routine? • Is their skin more sensitive during winter? • Do they have more redness? • Are there specific areas of dryness which need extra care such as the lips and eye area? • Would a gentle moisturising mask or hydrating oil be of benefit? • Are they sensitive and prone to break outs if they use a heavier moisturiser?

Burt’s Bees is available from Chemist Warehouse, Priceline, Coles, Big W, David Jones and other independent pharmacies - for more information contact your local brand representative or visit burtsbees.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |21

TALKING POINT

Winter Weather Relief What’s Trending, New Launches and Hero Actives in Skincare by Elisabeth King

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, is the first line of defence against environmental assault, UV damage and bacteria. It’s also thin and when temperatures drop, the skin barrier can lose moisture. Skincare sales rise during winter as women fend off dehydration, summer sun damage and visible signs of ageing. esprit talks to brands about new technologies, market trends, research and the continued growth of facial moisturisers and serums. YOGA SKIN, SKIP CARE AND SOCIAL MEDIA LISTENING

Retinol has become a major buzzword again, says Gemma Rogers, NSW Education Manager for Estée Lauder. “But this time consumers are looking for instant results without any harsh side-effects.

Gemma Rogers NSW EDUCATION MANAGER FOR ESTÉE LAUDER

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We are also seeing younger customers interested in the benefits of at-home derm treatments and they love the results of our latest addition to the Perfectionist range - Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol Treatment”. Dialing up hydration in the quest for so-called Yoga Skin - a dewy, luminous, minimal makeup look - is the hottest trend of 2019 and requires the right foundation and skincare choices, says Rogers. “Using Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion followed by a multitasking moisturiser such as Revitalising Supreme + Cell Power Wake Up Balm preps the skin for the most sheer of bases - Estée Lauder Double Wear Water Fresh Nude Makeup. Incorporating our iconic Advanced Night Repair serum into the routine further fast-tracks Yoga Skin”. Customers are also becoming more selective about skincare textures and major brands are launching more advanced technology products with lightweight formulas, adds Rogers. “The new Estée Lauder DayWear Anti-Oxidant 72H-Hydration Sorbet Creme boasts a water-light texture, SPF sunscreens and 72 hours of hydrating”. Year-round sun protection is a must in Australia and Dermalogica’s latest release - Prisma Protect Light-Activated Skin Defense - underscores this important message. “Sunscreen is fundamental to skin health and everyone needs to be diligent”, says Emma Sykes, Marketing Manager for Dermalogica. “It’s a common misconception that sunscreen products are designed for use solely on hot, sunnier days. UVA rays are present at the same intensity year-round during daylight

Emma Sykes MARKETING MANAGER FOR DERMALOGICA

hours, so applying sunscreen needs to be a daily habit even in winter. UVA rays are the culprits for most visible ageing from wrinkles to sun spots and are also linked to skin cancer. Dermalogica’s Prisma Protect has been developed for daily protection all year with light activated skin defence”. The serums and essences sub-category accounts for over 20 per cent of department store skincare sales and are experiencing robust year-on-year growth, says Michelle Williams, Brand General Manager La Mer, Jo Malone London and Bobbi Brown. “The two top-sellers in the La

Michelle Williams BRAND GENERAL MANAGER LA MER, JO MALONE LONDON AND BOBBI BROWN

Mer portfolio are The Treatment and The Concentrate. In March through April, the brand orchestrated a re-launch of The Concentrate with new packaging, including a lid inspired by sea kelp as a visual clue to the origins of the brand”. Social media listening has confirmed that hydration continues to be a macro search trend and volume has grown significantly over the past year, says Williams. “With winter upon us, serums are a key conversation topic in the battle against dry and dehydrated skin. La Mer The

Concentrate is well-placed to meet these concerns and we have introduced a smaller 15ml size format to recruit new customers. There has been a strong sell-through to date and we expect to see strong repeat purchase rates as new customers upgrade to the 30ml and 50ml sizes. We are also seeing a rise in ‘skip care’, a simpler skincare routine that has emerged from Korea, with consumers adopting a ‘fewer, better’ approach”. Another Lauder-owned brand, Aveda, is also noticing the ‘skip care’ trend as consumers move away from an extensive, multi-product routine to using fewer products with more benefits, says Korynn

Korynn Zdenek AVEDA PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Zdenek, Aveda Product Development. “One of the main benefits consumers are looking for is acquiring a healthy glow, in addition to using products that improve skin health. Aveda’s Tulasara range incorporates many of the elements consumers are looking for, including sustainability and cruelty-free claims. The Wedding Masque Overnight contains plant-powered ingredients such as turmeric and organic apricot seed oil that brightens and firms the skin and makes it look more lifted”. Whether people are outdoors or are spending more time in heavily-heated or airconditioned environments, a strong hydration routine is key to minimising damage to the skin barrier, says Scott Johnson, Education Manager for Kiehl’s. “Our world-renowned Ultra Facial Cream is the hero of many people’s routines because of its lightweight texture and 24-hour hydration benefits. Other products which get a lot of love from our customers during winter include Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment and Midnight Recovery Concentrate”. Vitamin C isn’t a rebound trend because it’s never been out of fashion, says Johnson. “But more and more people are discovering why it’s key to managing pigmentation and texture. We are seeing a better understanding from our patrons on how vitamin C works and the importance and benefits of oxidation protection, slow release formulas and combining it with other ingredients for greater efficacy”. PHARMACY MOVES UPMARKET, SERUM SURGE, TRUSTED, HIGH POTENCY ACTIVES

Increasingly, the larger pharmacy chains are offering higher-priced skincare ranges with

heavyweight dermatological credentials. StriVectin, the US brand based on 40 years of biomedical research, has recently re-launched in Australia exclusively in Priceline. “Our iconic bestsellers continued to perform well globally in 2018”, says Alison Yeh, StriVectin Chief

Alison Yeh STRIVECTIN CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER

Marketing Officer. “One unit of our Intensive Eye Concentrate for Wrinkles sells somewhere in the world every 30 seconds and one unit of SD Advanced Intensive Concentrate for Wrinkles & Stretchmarks is sold worldwide every 75 seconds”. Overall, StriVectin is seeing consumers gravitate towards tried-and-true ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol, adds Yeh. “However, it’s not just the presence of an ingredient that leads to efficacy; it’s the concentration and knowing what ingredients to pair it with that makes the difference. StriVectin has earned a cult following for its advanced retinol products because we team the active with our exclusive NIA-114 technology that strengthens the skin barrier and limits sensitivity to retinol. In September 2019, StriVectin’s new Blue Rescue Clay Renewal Mask launches in Australia - a multi-tasking, colour transforming mask that reduces the look of fine lines, enlarged pores and dullness in only 10 minutes”. Olay definitely sees a rise in serum sales over winter, says Sabrina Ayala Mayorca,

Sabrina Ayala Mayorca OLAY MARKETING MANAGER ANZ

Olay Marketing Manager ANZ. “Our bestsellers when temperatures drop are the Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Serum and Olay Regenerist Luminous Tone Perfecting Treatment. We also see some consumers switching from water-based lotions to richer, thicker creams to boost hydration”. We are seeing niacinamide, vitamin C and retinol as key trending ingredients, says Mayorca. “Niacinamide or vitamin B3 has definitely been an unsung hero until recently. Olay has been pioneering research on this ingredient for over 15 years, which is why it is used across a wide range of our products including the new Olay Whips and Magnemasks and established franchises such as Total Effects and Regenerist. The

industry as a whole is moving towards higher concentrations of key ingredients, but this trend doesn’t necessarily lead to higher penetration. Our Magnemask range was designed to overcome the penetration challenge. A magnetic wand tunes into the magnetic fields of the key ingredients in the cream and propels them into the skin for three times more penetration”. Nivea Creme, the world’s first skin cream, continues to be an international bestseller, says Robyn Hutch, Nivea

Robyn Hutch NIVEA SKINCARE EXPERT

Skincare Expert. “But simple, trusted ingredients with high potency are a major trend. Intensely moisturising hyaluronic acid is the key ingredient in Nivea’s recently launched Hyaluron Cellular Filler Ampoules, which boast the highest concentration of the active among the brand’s ranges. Nivea’s latest innovation including the potent antioxidant Q10 is Nivea Q10 Replenishing Pearls, which promotes visibly younger-looking skin”. Natural oils continue to be trending ingredients throughout Nivea’s face and body products, says Hutch. “The brand’s new Nivea Hyaluron Cellular Filler Elasticity and Re-Densifying Bi-Phase Oil Elixir is a triple oil phase combined with a highly concentrated aqueous base containing hyaluron, collagen and an elastin booster to nourish and hydrate mature skin”. SLEEPING MASKS, COLLAGEN, VITAMIN C AND RETINOL REBOUND, ULTIMATE SOOTHING

In terms of trends and product appeal, Mavala’s sleeping masks - Aqua Plus Multi Moisturising and Skin Vitality Baby Skin Radiance - are seeing the strongest sales growth, says Remi Bouchenez,

Remi Bouchenez MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COSMIER

Managing Director of Cosmier. “These new leave-on-while-you-sleep penetrating cream masks combine the ease of use of a night cream with the skintransforming benefits of a mask. Both are very well-suited to winter. Aqua Plus has a high concentration of hyaluronic acid and Skin Vitality is based on a concentrate of ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |23

organic fruit acids, AHAs and BHAs”. Dr LeWinn’s Private Formula range really comes into its own in winter, says Lucy Robinson, Senior Brand

Lucy Robinson SENIOR BRAND MANAGER DR LEWINN’S

Manager. “The Private Formula Day Cream Moisturiser continues to be the number one seller for the brand in Australian pharmacy. The luxuriously rich texture really hydrates the skin and the formula also incorporates Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate), which continues to be a hero ingredient for its anti-ageing and moisture retention benefits”. Collagen has become a major buzzword again, adds Robinson. “Dr LeWinn’s has recently launched a new product - the Ultra R4 Collagen Surge Plumping Gel - which is perfect for the cooler months when the skin needs a moisture surge. Mask fever continues and we have been upping our game over the past year with multiple mask launches, including the Ultra R4 Collagen Firming Face Mask, which is clinically proven to increase skin hydration by up to 56 per cent after one use”. Many skin conditions flare up during winter and French dermo-cosmetic brand, Avène, is a leading expert in soothing and calming. “In June, we launched XeraCalm A.D Cream and Balm in larger 400ml sizes - up from 200ml”, says Julie DeJean, Group Brand Manager, Pierre Fabre

Julie DeJean GROUP BRAND MANAGER, PIERRE FABRE AUSTRALIA

Australia. “Dehydration is a real problem in winter and XeraCalm is nourishing, hydrating, soothing and reduces itching. The cream is suitable for dry skin and the balm relieves very dry skin, eczema and atopic dermatitis”. Avene also offers many of its skincare formulas in rich and light versions and sales of the former rise in winter, says DeJean. “Other perennial bestsellers when the weather gets colder include Cicalfate Restorative Skin Cream, Cold Cream Lip Balm and TriXera Nutrition Balm. With the general return to proven ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, we have incorporated bakuchiol (the chemical name for Sytenol) into our new DermAbsolu range, the first natural and photostable alternative to retinol 24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

derivate from the babchi plant, long used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine”. Vitamin C in particular is enjoying a renaissance with the renewed focus on antioxidants, says Nikita Papas, Communications Manager, L’Oréal

Nikita Papas COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER, L’ORÉAL ACTIVE COSMETICS DIVISION

Active Cosmetics Division. “La RochePosay’s latest launch, Redermic Vitamin C10 Serum, is the first Vitamin C serum with physiological pH that enhances the skin’s barrier. It contains 10 per cent pure Vitamin C, salicylic acid to elimnate dead skin cells and Neurosensine, a soothing active that targets skin irritation. With a light, fast-absorbing texture, it is suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin”. People suffer from allergies year-round and need calming products in addition to more hydrating ones during winter, says Papas. “The La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra range also contains Neurosensine to relieve the irritation caused by allergies and moisturising ingredients such as glycerine, shea butter and the brand’s proprietary thermal spring water. Many foundations can dry the skin, but La Roche-Posay Teint Hydrating Water-Cream Foundation is infused with hyaluronic acid, one of the most hydrating actives in skincare”. With a long list of impressive benefits to the skin, it’s no surprise vitamin C is making a resurgence, says Craig Schweighoffer, Director of Skin

and anti-microbial properties”. Blemishes can blight the skin of women well into their 30s and 40s. Bioderma’s major new launch is Sebium Sensitive, which hits the shelves on July 1st, says Emilie

Emilie Robertson SENIOR BRAND MANAGER BIODERMA

Robertson, Senior Brand Manager. “It’s a soothing, anti-blemish care product formulated for sensitive skin undergoing topical keratolytic treatments sold over the counter or prescribed by dermatologists. A great complementary product to soothe and hydrate the skin, it contains the patented Inflastop Complex, which reduces inflammation and lesions that can lead to the formation of marks on the skin”. Robertson rubberstamps that demand for vitamin C and retinol is on the rise. “But glycolic acid, lactic acid and salycylic acid are also more in demand for acne and blemished skin. Consumers also seem to be doing more layering and buying different serums for different concerns - treating pigmentation and skin texture issues in the morning and anti-ageing and anti-blemish at night. Micellar waters are still very popular and Australian consumers are savvier about the importance of cleansing and understand that if the skin isn’t cleaned properly even the best serums or moisturisers can’t deliver optimum results. Bioderma SensiBio H2O, for example, removes 99 per cent of makeup and 98 per cent of pollution”. NATURALLY DOES IT

Criag Schweighoffer DIRECTOR OF SKIN PHYSICS

Physics. “The super antioxidant not only protects the integrity of the skin by neutralising free radicals, it also brightens the skin by reducing the production of melanin, the skin’s natural pigment”. Skin Physics’ new OXYGEN-C range is based on the power of the kakadu plum, the Australian native super fruit which has 100 times more vitamin C than an orange, says Schweighoffer. “The four SKU range goes on counter on July 19th and includes a foaming cleanser, micellar water, hydrating toner and brightening daily moisturiser. To add to the high vitamin C content, the lineup also contains vitamins E and A and an impressive amount of polyphenols, which boast antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

Trilogy’s winter launch schedule centres on the new Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment and Vitamin C Moisturising Lotion, says Gaelle Thieme, Trilogy

Gaelle Thieme TRILOGY GLOBAL PRODUCT MARKETING MANAGER

Global Product Marketing Manager. “To create hype in the lead-up to the launch, our digital wait list registered over 4000 Trilogy fans who signed up to trial the booster treatment before it hit the shelves. This was followed by a huge amount of editorial coverage with a centralised strategy to increase demand. The products launched in New Zealand two weeks earlier than Australia and both products secured placings in our top 10 products based on dollars sold per store, per week, after only a

Christina Schroder NATIONAL TRAINING AND EDUCATION MANAGER FOR NATIO

Natio. “Gentle, non-abrasive exfoliants such as Natio Renew Radiance Exfoliator, which contains AHAs and Vitamin C, are a popular choice in winter. Customers are also more receptive to including additional steps to their skincare routine, notably oils such as Natio Renew Silky Shea Miracle Face Oil or Natio Ageless Rosehip Oil Cold Pressed and masks such as Natio Ageless Hydrating Mask, for extra nourishment”. Blue light protection is fast becoming a hot new trend in skincare, says Vicki Engsall, Co-Founder and Product Development Manager for The Jojoba

Vicki Engsall CO-FOUNDER AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER FOR THE JOJOBA COMPANY

Company. “Our recently launched Ultimate Day Cream is all-natural and uses clinically-proven breakthrough technology to deliver blue light protection and antiageing benefits. We also find that demand for anti-pigmentation products increases during winter as people spend more time at home, allowing them to concentrate on treating their major skin concerns. The renewed general emphasis on retinol has also seen a rise in the popularity of natural alternatives like bakuchiol”. Aussie brand Sand & Sky has been making waves globally on social media for its pore-refing pink clay mask and

is stocked by Sephora overseas. “We are launching exciting new additions to our Australian pink clay range later this year, say Sand & Sky’s co-founders

Emily and Sarah Hamilton SAND & SKY’S CO-FOUNDERS

– Emily and Sarah Hamilton. “Our products are for use year-round, so we don’t typically see an increase in sales over winter. But one of the main trends we have noticed is the demand to combine cult ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol with botanicals in clean beauty formulas. We listen to our customers when it comes to new product development, as well as creating new trends”. RAWW Cosmetics from Total Beauty Network hit a consumer nerve with its superfood-based makeup and skincare and has been a major hit from the get-go. “This month ( July), we launch the Super Hydrate-Me range, formulated with our most powerful superfood, WildBerry Harvest”, says Elise Synott, Senior

Elise Synott SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, TOTAL BEAUTY NETWORK

Brand Manager, Total Beauty Network. “This hero ingredient is clinically proven to increase hydration in the skin and the new collection includes two serums and two oils - Light Beam Radiance Serum with Tropical Fruit Harvest, Dew Drop Hydrating Serum, Day Warrior Light Facial Oil and Night Owl Rich Facial Oil. Super Hydrate-Me is a complete care lineup and also includes six other SKUs - a cream cleanser, cleansing oil, facial mist, eye cream, day cream and night cream. All of the products are Australian-made, certified vegan and COSMOS natural to naturally give the skin extra hydration and radiance through the winter months”. Australian consumers are just as interested in visible results as they are in natural credentials, says Linda Kho, Senior Brand Manager for A’kin. “That’s why we have conducted both

Linda Kho SENIOR BRAND MANAGER FOR A’KIN

clinical trials and self-assessment for our Age-Defy brand. The range has been given a fresh look with more emphasis on key performance results outlined on the packaging. For example, 76% of users saw a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles following the use of A’kin Line Smoothing Cream and a 143% improvement in skin hydration after using the Age-Defy range, which features high percentages of hyaluronic acid and vitamin C”. In the rush to describe even existing products as vegan, Dr Hauschka continues to use animal-derived ingredients such as beeswax, lactose, honey, royal jelly, lanolin and silk powder owing to their superior performance and skin compatibility, says Janet Southern of Helios Health. “Many of the brand’s

TALKING POINT

few weeks following the in-store launch”. Globally, beauty products that deliver instant results for specific concerns, like brightening and pigmentation, are in growth across a wide range of demographics and that’s why the new Vitamin C Booster Treatment has been such a hit, says Thieme. “Trilogy Ultra Hydrating Face Cream, normally ranked in our top 10 during the year, climbs to number five each winter and our number three bestseller over the cooler months is Trilogy Rosapene Night Cream. Pure plant oils such as Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil also remain one of the hottest trends in skincare”. Protection against cooler outside temperatures and indoor heating becomes top-of-mind as temperatures plummet, says Christina Schroder, National Training and Education Manager for

Janet Southern HELIOS HEALTH

products are vegan, of course, as Dr Hauschka, founded in 1935, is a pioneer of organic beauty and the hero ingredients are mainly plant-derived. Like most brands there is increased demand for hydrating products in winter such as Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream and Hydrating Cream Mask. We also see a rise in irritation and sensitive skin conditions in winter and our Quince Day Cream and Soothing Mask meet these concerns by calming and stabilising sensitive, reddened skin”. Beauty is still buzzing with botanicals, says Nikole Duong, PR Manager - John Frieda, Bioré, Jergens and Molton Brown. “More and more

Nikole Duong PR MANAGER - JOHN FRIEDA, BIORÉ, JERGENS AND MOLTON BROWN

Australians are being drawn to skincare containing natural and plant-derived ingredients. Bioré’s new Whipped Detox Masks, curated for combination skins, are good examples. The Blue Agave + Baking Soda Whipped Nourishing Detox Mask is based on a fleshy, Mexican succulent which is more powerful than aloe vera. It also contains polysaccharides and microbial properties that assist in healing, hydrating and brightening the skin. It’s perfect for self-care Sundays and ‘mask on, stress off’ selfies on Instagram”. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |25

esprit Magazine promotion

EVERYONE WILL NOTICE, NO ONE WILL KNOW The day, the look, the outfit, the success, for a woman everything begins with her hair. It’s an integral part of a woman’s femininity. Great looking hair is important. After our skin, the lustre and quality of the hair is one of the most telltale signs of ageing. Researching through the various hair restorative options can be a slow and daunting process with such a plethora of options to choose from. The investment required and the time necessary will vary greatly depending on the option chosen. Where truly transformational results are required virtually instantaneously Toppik hair building fibres rise to the top as an affordable, easy-to-use, stress-free choice.

Church & Dwight has been operating in Australia since 1977. Its stable includes a veritable smorgasbord of household hair and personal care brands: iconic names such as Curash, Nair, First Response and Dencorub. Its innovative Batiste dry shampoo brand has been cleansing and refreshing hair since the 1970s and is No 1 in the dry shampoo category. Recognising the importance of the hair loss trend, Church & Dwight set their sights on expansion into this space. In 2016/ 2017, two cornerstone brand acquisitions were made, from which to build the category: Toppik and Viviscal. The vision is to operate in this not-so-niche domain where Church & Dwight can bring its hair care expertise to life, investing in R&D, championing innovation, investing in sales and marketing. TOPPIK – SHAKEN NOT STIRRED!

Hair loss and thinning, while typically an issue associated with older men and older women, is now prevalent across all age groups and sexes. Both guys and girls say their confidence and self-esteem is affected by a perceived hair thinning issue. Enter Toppik, the number 1 selling cosmetic hair fibre brand

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26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

both globally and in Australia. Made from a natural Keratin, the fibres are magnetised with static energy to instantly bind with existing hair giving the appearance of a thicker, fuller head of hair. It literally takes a few seconds shaking the Toppik fibres onto thin partings and sparse sections. The result? Effectively concealing fine or thin hair, a visible part line, scalp show-through or targeting patchier hair loss and concealing male and female hair loss. Toppik’s Helen Feeney tells esprit: “Our Toppik customers get a spring in their hair and their step in an instant. They are incredibly brand loyal.”. With the strategy to champion the hair loss as a category Church & Dwight states it is committed to invest in this space. “We are committed to growing the hair loss category through a combination of exciting innovation and marketing investment. Retail partnerships are critical to Toppik’s brand success” says Feeney. Toppik includes a range of fibres in up to nine shades to match all hair colours, in sizes including 12g, 27.5g and 55g, plus precision accessories for pin-point application accuracy and shampoo and conditioner. For enquiries call 1800 222 099 or your C&D field force representative. AFTER

FULL HAIR INSTANTLY!

BEFORE

AFTER

Toppik hair building fibres instantly eliminate the appearance of thinning or fine hair. Toppik fibres naturally blend undetectably with existing hair and resist wind, rain and perspiration.

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A Bright Future for Australian Skincare N AT I V E S K I N C A R E I S C O M I N G O U T O N TO P Trending hard across Asia and Australia, Vitamin C has been proven to flush out toxins, improve the skin’s hydration, and increase antioxidant intake. Skin Physics® new range of Vitamin C rich skincare, OXYGEN-C, utilises the natural properties of Vitamin C to deliver radiant, healthy skin. While we often associate Vitamin C rich foods with the fruit and veg we love to eat, the native Australian Kakadu Plum is the secret ingredient in the new OXYGEN-C range. Trumping your average orange 100 times over for natural levels of the essential vitamin, it’s time for the humble plum to realise its full potential. The Trend From influencers to dermatologists and luxe skincare, Vit-C is a trend that’s here to stay. Currently making a huge impression on luxe and boutique skincare markets, the Kakadu Plum is appearing in skincare across Australia, and enjoying success across Asia, arguably the world’s powerhouse for natural Vit-C in skincare. A global obsession with endless youth, anti-ageing products, and natural health puts naturally-sourced vitamins and minerals at the forefront of international demand.

about their skin, but perhaps can’t justify putting skincare on the credit card! The foundation for this new range of products is the conviction that hydration and Vitamin C go hand-in-hand to create brighter, youthful looking skin. Currently under-utilised in accessible skincare, OXYGEN-C combines the power of Kakadu Plums with tried and tested skincare classics including Aloe Vera, New Zealand Manuka Honey, Chamomile extract, B vitamins, Sunflower Seed oil, and the Australian skincare essential, SPF15. The result? A range rich in Vitamin C, antioxidants and

The Updates Skin Physics® OXYGEN-C products now appeal to the skin AND price conscious customers Skin Physics® traditionally create a range of high-end products, but this range has been designed to bring the best of science to the skincare shopper, who cares deeply 28| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

From influencers to dermatologists and luxe skincare, Vit-C is a trend that’s here to stay

natural antibacterial qualities. The skincare routine and its carefully chosen ingredients work in synergy to fight free radicals while balancing skin and soothing irritation. Other edgy key ingredients that support the Kakadu Plum’s high level of Vitamin C include Sunflower sprouts, and Betaine, an amino acid that encourages immediate hydration. Peruvian Tara Fruit Pod Extracts are added to the moisturiser to protect the skin from damaging free radicals via rich natural antioxidants.

Breaking down The Kakadu Plum Native to Northern Australia, primarily the Northern Territory, the Kimberley, and Arnhem Land, the Kakadu Plum is the world’s richest natural source of Vitamin C. Used in the Indigenous diet as well as in tradition Indigenous medicine for thousands of years, its healing and medicinal properties have found their way into modern skincare.

esprit Magazine promotion

The Range Working together to clean, hydrate, brighten, and protect the skin, the OXYGEN-C range covers all bases to create a simple, effective skincare routine that boosts one’s natural glow! OXYGEN-C Brightening Foaming Cleanser - 150ml The lightness of foam is a pleasure for those who don’t like the feeling of cream cleansers on their skin. An oil-free, antioxidantrich formula, Australian Kakadu Plum Extract stands strong as the hero ingredient, naturally the world’s richest source of Vitamin C. The supporting cast are no shrinking violets, either; the antibacterial and moisturising properties of New Zealand Manuka Honey and Aloe Vera support your skin’s natural moisture barrier. For cleansed and clear skin, use the OXYGEN-C Brightening Foaming Cleanser twice daily to expel excess dirt and oil, and detoxify impurities to reveal more radiant skin.

OXYGEN-C Hydrating Vitamin C Toner - 100ml A good toner is all about binding water to the skin for ultrahydrating, dewy results. The Hydrating Vitamin C Toner is infused with Kakadu Plum Extract, working to shield skin from free radical damage and premature ageing caused by UV exposure – the flipside to all the benefits of living in a sunburnt country. Aloe Vera works together with Betaine, a naturally occurring Amino Acid, to instantly hydrate and attach the most wonderful element to the skin – water – creating protection and hydration for moist, soft, and supple skin.

OXYGEN-C Vitamin C Micellar Cleansing Water - 250ml Micellar Cleansing Water is experiencing a rapid rise in popularity thanks to it’s gentle purifying properties. Infused with Kakadu Plum Extract to deliver antioxidants and Vitamin C, plus Aloe Vera & Sunflower Seed Oil to moisturise, the revitalising formula cleanses gently while leaving skin feeling hydrated and refreshed. Simply soak a cotton pad and gently wipe across the face and eye area – no rinse required!

OXYGEN-C Brightening Daily Moisturiser - SPF 15 - 50ml The final delectable piece of the OXYGEN-C range is the Brightening Daily Moisturiser. Formulated with an awardwinning extract blend of Peruvian Tara Fruit pods and Organic Sunflower sprouts that work in synergy to protect the skin from free radical damage, while maintaining deep hydration for 72 hours following application. The moisturiser is one of the most versatile products in the range. It can be used at the end of the day after cleansing and toning, or to prime the skin before makeup – just ensure it is allowed to absorb first, for optimum results! It can also be reapplied every couple of hours throughout the day to top-up SPF, and protect from harmful UV rays and free radicals from Infrared and Blue Light. The skin is protected via the antioxidant properties of the Tara Fruit and Sunflower sprouts, while enjoying a healthy dose of brightening Vitamin C from the Kakadu Plum – aka our new favourite fruit.

Not only rich in Vitamin C, but also providing a solid dose of antioxidants, the Kakadu Plum has great benefits for every skin type. Kakadu Plum extract contains Gallic acid, a natural anti-inflammatory, it works to decrease redness, blemishes and inflammation via natural botanicals. The Brightening Daily Moisturiser with SPF15 contains an award-winning combination of Peruvian Tara Fruit pods and Organic Sunflower sprouts, working with the Kakadu Plum to protect skin from our harsh, modern environment.

Our Environment Battling the Elements Between the increase in exposure to harsh UV rays thanks to climate change, free radicals, air conditioning and heating, and the effects of technology, our skin is regularly exposed to a wide variety of elements that fast-forward the clock on a natural, youthful glow.

Plum Job A range that works for your customers – and you! While the Kakadu plum may not be as common as a Riverland orange, never fear; it doesn’t come with an unapproachable price tag! The price point for the entire range falls between $14.99 and $29.99, meaning customers can update their entire skincare routine for under $85! The new OXYGEN-C range is a breath of fresh air in the Australian skincare industry. Skincare made in Australia and New Zealand with an Australian hero ingredient? Sounds like an easy sell to us.

Want to become a stockist? OXYGEN-C has been formulated in Australia with nature’s best. Perfect for your trusted retail environment! For more on the range, or any of the Skin Physics® stable, please check out the website and contact us at: www.skinphysics.com.au retail@skinphysics.com.au.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |29

A brand that men have trusted for generations will never go out of style Tabac Original – a milestone in men’s fragrances. First launched in 1959, Tabac Original stands today as one of the most successful men’s fragrance and grooming ranges in its home country of Germany in particular, and across the globe. With the Father’s Day buying season fast approaching, considering Tabac for this special gift-giving occasion may be suggesting that something “old” is potentially something “new” again. And it’s true. This iconic, white amphora-shaped bottle - unchanged since it launched 60 years ago, in 1959 - enjoys loyalty from fans the world over, none less than Down Under, here in Australia, despite inconsistent distribution. That was until earlier this year when German company and brand owners Maurer & Wirtz handed exclusive distribution rights to Australian skincare and distribution company Core Metrics Pty

30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Ltd, Co-Founded by ‘The Perfume Hunter’ herself, Sally Desancic. 2019 marks a huge marketing repositioning strategy for Tabac as it takes aim at younger, fashion-conscious Gen Z and Millennial males. Now with the return of age-old barbershops as hip hangouts in Australia, the brand has re launched as a classic yet contemporary affordable luxury for this target market. Another landmark occasion for the brand this year is the anniversary of their 60th Birthday, and to celebrate Tabac launch their newest fragrance ‘Craftsman’. Like its older brother Tabac Original, Craftsman’s target group is the traditionalists. Younger people are leading increasingly individual and creative lives. At the same time, craftsmanship, as a lifestyle, a real masculinity, is making a comeback. The new scent has a pleasantly multifaceted fragrance, with Black Pepper, Grapefruit and Bergamot as top notes, Lavender, Geranium and Tonka Bean for the heart and Vetiver, Patchouli and Leather as the base notes. Tabac Original on the other hand, with the unchanged and unforgettable peppery-spicy accents, aldehydic notes,

exotic woods and a floral complex lie at the heart of the masculine scent of Tabac Original. Classically masculine but certainly not too overpowering for day wear or even night wear. Available in Australia now is the After Shave, Eau de Toilette and Shaving Ancillaries – all affordably priced. DO YOU HAVE YOUR STOCK OF TABAC IN PLACE FOR FATHER’S DAY?

For order enquiries please email info@core-metrics.com.au FACEBOOK: /tabacfragrancesau INSTAGRAM: @tabacfragrancesau

WWW.TABAC-ORIGINAL.COM

BOOK REVIEW 01.

Perfume Legends II

– Michael Edwards pens a 2nd tome! 01. SEEN HERE ARE PAGES FROM THE BEAUTIFUL BOOK – A RICH BOUNTY OF ICONIC PERFUME CREATION STORIES

02. MICHAEL EDWARDS – AUTHOR – PERFUME LEGENDS II

03. THE BOOK! A LEGENDARY PIECE OF WRITING IN ITS OWN RIGHT

02.

New fragrances rarely spring from nowhere. More often than not they draw their inspiration from what has gone before. Sadly, perfumery’s illustrious heritage is gradually disappearing. So many iconic fragrances have been tampered with, often beyond recognition. Behind every iconic perfume there is a fascinating story but how does a perfume go from being great to achieving legend status? 32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

03.

Perhaps the person most qualified to answer this question is Michael Edwards. He is the man whom the late Evelyn Lauder dubbed “the perfume experts’ expert”. In 2009 Michael was inducted into the Hall of Fame, the most prestigious award by The Fragrance Foundation Australia and he has received two FiFi Awards for his contribution to the fragrance industry. Over the past three decades, Michael Edwards has worked tirelessly to record fragrance history. His Fragrances of the World database has recorded more than 30,000 fragrances and his Guidebook is often referred to in the industry as the ‘fragrance bible’.

Ask Michael what he considers to be his legacy and his answer might surprise you. During his presentation at this year’s Esxence exhibition in Milan he said it was not his guidebooks or his renowned Fragrance Wheel, it was his work on Perfume Legends. Published in 1996, this beautifully illustrated book tells the stories of forty-four of France’s most legendary perfumes for women. That edition is now out of print and second-hand copies have become literary gold, selling for small fortunes on sites like Amazon and eBay. Perfumers now enjoy something approaching celebrity status and their contribution is fully acknowledged, but it wasn’t until Michael started interviewing them for the first Perfume Legends book that they began speaking openly about their work and inspirations. PERFUME LEGENDS II.

After being encouraged to reprint the book, Michael decided to go one step further. In September this year he will launch Perfume Legends II - French Feminine Fragrances. As in the original publication, Perfume Legends II begins with Houbigant’s Fougère Royale in 1882. Now it finishes

BOOK REVIEW with Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle from 2010. While some additions are recent Legends, some were around at the time of the original book’s publication. Fracas by Robert Piguet is one example. Michael always considered it to be a legend, but it had been reformulated when he wrote Perfume Legends. Following the perfume’s faithful restoration under new ownership, Fracas has found its rightful place in the new edition.

An excerpt from Perfume Legends II about Robert Piguet’s Fracas. In 1948, Robert Piguet released the fragrance that would become the masterpiece of his collection. Fracas was perfectly named, a true tumult in the world of perfumery. Piguet entrusted the creation of its first fragrance to Germaine Cellier, a fascinating, imperious and complex perfumer. “Her independent spirit made her somewhat of an enfant terrible,” explained perfumer Guy Robert. By the time she created Fracas, Cellier was working by herself in one of Roure’s Parisian annexes, far away from the main laboratories in Grasse. Jacques Polge, Chanel’s former perfumer who began his career at Roure, remembers Cellier’s occasional visits to Grasse. “She would come into our office, just shooting the breeze, smoking.” “She would shake her smelling strips, splattering drops of oil across the lab,” says perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï. “Sometimes, she would mix materials in her hands, like a painter using his fingers instead of his brush. Cellier worked like a Fauvist,

combining different shades and strengths of very strong contrast.” “She saw harmonies that others couldn’t detect. And she was a stickler for quality. She used the best and nothing else. In the case of Fracas, I believe it was inspired by her fondness for natural tuberose – for the enfleurage extract and the concrete,” said perfumer Gérard Pelpel. Fracas is dominated by tuberose, a white floral note that had a significant precedent at the time. Grenoville’s Byzance (1925) was among the first modern perfumes to prominently feature tuberose, followed by Forvil’s 5 Fleurs (1926), Le Galion’s Tubéreuse (1937) and Tuvaché’s Jungle Gardenia (1938). By the late 1940s, the overwhelming success of White Shoulders (1945) in America had proven the potential of tuberose fragrances.

Given her contrary nature, it is possible that the inherent difficulties of using tuberose attracted Cellier. “She liked products that other perfumers used timidly and almost ashamedly,” Robert explained, “like the leathery mosses she’d found at Carles’ lab, surprising iodine accords and aggravating notes like styralyl acetate, galbanum oil and methyl octine carbonate.” As far as ingredients go, rose is easy, jasmine more difficult, and tuberose extremely hard, asserts Nicolaï. “Tuberose absolute doesn’t smell of the flower. Instead, it’ s heady, waxy and invasive, and must be treated in solution in order to express the flower’s finesse. In Fracas, Cellier offset tuberose with other ingredients in order to make something very round, soft and settled. The balance is perfect, with zero excess. Her formulae were always very short – Monsieur Balmain (1964), for example, is made of only ten products.” Cellier’s creation became legendary. “Whoever tries to create a tuberose perfume falls back on the Fracas formula,” says Frédéric Malle, the founder of Éditions de Parfums. “The accords are so evident, there’s no superfluous material. It’s solid and sexy like some irresistible girl, but it’s also a little ‘bad form’. Fracas makes no compromise …” MEET THE AUTHOR…BUY THE BOOK!

Perfume Legends II will be available from September 2019.

To pre-order your copy, visit www.fragrancesoftheworld.com. 04. 04. FRACAS BY ROBERT PIGUET – WINS A SPECIAL PLACE IN MICHAEL’S HEART

The website also has information about opportunities to hear Michael Edwards present Perfume Legends II in Australia, beginning with an event in Sydney on August 27th.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |33

Buyers Lists

Following on from the interest we received from our April issue Buyers Lists we’ve been out and about gathering more diverse iconic and intriguing best sellers and personal favourites from Australia’s influential and beauty-junkie Retail Buyers. Series II just for you…

My Chemist Warehouse Group

ALBINA REALE - MY CHEMIST WAREHOUSE GROUP NATIONAL CATEGORY MANAGERFRAGRANCE AND BEAUTY

Flower Beauty Cosmetics - If you haven’t familiarised yourself with Drew Barrymore’s gorgeous beauty brand, Flower Beauty, it’s time you did! The award-winning actress launched the range five years ago and it has been quietly but steadily gaining a cult following ever since. The best part? Everything is under $15. Everything. Despite the price tag, though, the collection is formulated with the highest-quality ingredients. Elle L’edition - New Elle L’edition fragrance, created by Elle Magazine, is 34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

a symbol of style and the art of living. It represents the modern contemporary woman and perfectly captures the ELLE brand attitude. This fragrance will captivate you immediately through its delicious citrus and fruity floral top notes. We are really looking forward to adding this fragrance to our existing fragrance portfolio in August this year. Mercedes Man Grey - Inspired by the Middle East, new Mercedes Man Grey will appeal to every man. The fragrance notes are deep, warm and gently intoxicating. The iconic bottle with the Mercedes symbol represents style and luxury that everyone can now enjoy. Mercedes Man Grey will launch just in time for Father’s Day (Sept. 1st) this year. My Organics Hair Colour - It’s time to get excited about the new My Organics Hair Colour range. It’s one of the least toxic hair colours on the market, making it safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding and for consumers with autoimmune problems. But what makes this hair colour truly special is the formula.

It doesn’t contain any Resorcinol, the hormone-disrupting chemical found in many hair dyes. What about the results? Enjoy 100% grey coverage and the added benefit of shiny healthy hair thanks to the Aloe, Ginseng, Sunflower & Cranberry Oil delivery system. Bondi Sands - It’s official, Bondi Sands is the number 1 tanning brand in Australia, and we stock it in all our Chemist Warehouse stores. We are excited to welcome this award-winning tanning and SPF brand to our stores and online and really enjoy working with the Bondi Sands team to bring new innovations to our customers. OH K! Masks - What’s not to love about the OH K! Korean brand that brings us innovative skincare housed in adorable packaging. OH K! brand uses ingredients that harness the latest innovations for the best results. We are proud to stock OH K! and have recently launched seven exciting face and eye masks into our new MASK BAR in every Chemist Warehouse store.

DEBBY WHITE – TERRYWHITE CHEMMART CATEGORY DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Designer Brands - This pharmacy-only, vegan, not-tested-on-animals brand is one of our star performers. These guys take the latest trends from markets worldwide and re-imagine them into affordable products that every Australian woman can buy. My favourite? The BLUR primer. At just $14.99 this primer really does “blur out” lines and skin inconsistences, a staple to my makeup routine. Natio - Since 1992, Natio has been addressing skincare needs across Australia and with the launch of their new colour cosmetic range have taken the brand to a whole new level. The range is all about “plant-based beauty” and specifically designed for the contemporary customer. I adore their Rosewater Range and the Antioxidant Serum is a muchloved real favourite. Revlon - This brand started in pharmacy (or drug-stores if you are American) in the 1950s and continues to “anchor” our BEAUTY WALL. The Revlon team strive to deliver exceptional customer service while being on trend and so, so innovative with their products. Hard to choose a fave product – every time I visit their stand, I seem to find a new one. Maybelline - The Maybelline brand is at the forefront of what the next “big thing” will be. They were the first with products like Brow Tattoo and Fit Me setting powder. Maybelline understand what’s happening on the runway and can convert that to a product on their stand within a heartbeat… the NEW Lemonade palette is a perfect example – divine! Frostbland for Ardell - The Frostbland company represents several international brands and is a long-term supply partner. We deal with them across a few categories, but by far the biggest part of our business is the Ardell Lash range. The largest selling lash range in Australia by far, and certainly in my opinion the best. Their NEW magnetic lash range makes lash

application so easy…even for “women of a certain age” like me! Clinique - We opened our first Clinique account over 25 years ago and our business with them, and their big sister brand Estée Lauder continues to grow. We enjoy a wonderful relationship with them and the teams from both power house brands are committed to increasing their prestige cosmetics business with TerryWhite Chemmart…. My new favourite product must be Clinique iD Dramatically Different Moisturizer…. customise don’t compromise! Ultra 3 - I love that Ultra 3 are so supportive of the pharmacy channel. They have been servicing pharmacy accounts for decades – a testimony to how much our customers love their products. The brand really works hard at bringing the latest innovations to the market at an entry price point. And, their new mask range is incredible, they give great results for less than $6.00!

I love that Ultra 3 are so supportive of the pharmacy channel. They have been servicing pharmacy accounts for decades – a testimony to how much our customers love their products. – Debby White

RETAIL BEAUTY BUYERS

Terry White Chemmart

Napoleon Perdis - We have been a very proud stockist of the Napoleon Perdis brand for over 10 years, and the brand’s current problems aside – this Australian Brand Icon sets a benchmark for innovation, theatre and customer experiences. A much-loved brand that we all want to see grow and prosper. Coty Luxury - Apart from distributing some of our very best-selling fragrances like Marc Jacobs (my favourite), Burberry and Calvin Klein, Coty Luxury is the real deal when it comes to looking after their stockists, and I’m happy to say our sales reflect that commitment. Nude by Nature - The team at NBN calls their brand “makeup that is good for you”- formulated with 100% natural ingredients, this range celebrates its 10th birthday in Australia in 2019. They recently launched Flawless Liquid Foundation and for anyone that hasn’t tried this yet, you should. The finish really is flawless – and it was one of the most successful launches TerryWhite Chemmart had in 2018, so there must be many customers out there that agree with me.

If you haven’t familiarised yourself with Drew Barrymore’s gorgeous beauty brand, Flower Beauty, it’s time you did! – Albina Reale

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |35

PHARMACY & DEPARTMENT STORE RETAIL BEAUTY TRADE JOURNAL

esprit Magazine Australia’s Fresh Face The esprit Magazine Australia team is excited to announce the launch of our

NEW WEBSITE! Retail beauty is an ever-evolving, dynamic industry and as the trade magazine FOR that business we wanted to give you, our readers, an online platform that reflects the content we aim to produce – current, relevant, content all under one ‘roof’ that you cannot get elsewhere. And easy-to-navigate and aesthetically pleasing. You’ll experience simpler navigation, and a stack of new features, including: ✓ Integrated esprit video content ✓ Enhanced search function and related articles ✓ Responsive design across all devices ✓ Shortlist function for you to save articles to read later ✓ New international events calendar on our home page ✓ Weekly newsletter with all the latest news, trends, tips ✓ ... and things that come onto our radar that we think will interest you Stay in touch with YOUR RETAIL BEAUTY INDUSTRY news, trends, analysis, people, launches, insights and get involved in the conversations esprit has with your colleagues and your competitors.

www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au Contact:

Andrea Ferrari – Editor andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Call: +61 (0) 410 067 966

Nicci Herrera – Sales & Marketing Director nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Call: +61 (0) 426 826 977

INDUSTRY NEWS

PICTURED: SARAH MOURTOS – JUNIOR ONLINE JOURNALIST WITH HER FIRST EVER BEAUTY BAG COURIER DELIVERY!

esprit’s NEWEST RECRUIT Hi there! It’s Sarah here. I am esprit Magazine’s newly appointed Junior Online Journalist. If there is one thing you should know about me, it’s that I have been an aficionado of beauty products from a tender age. The excitement of choosing a new shampoo in the aisles of Woolworths as a child was almost giddying. My first pay check as a casually employed teen was spent solely at Priceline, and when a courier bag of beauty products landed on my desk at esprit Magazine Australia HQ, I thought someone had put it there by mistake. It truly is a privilege to be working for esprit Magazine and to be doing what I do. As we all know, the world of beauty extends beyond pouts and perfumes. It is empowerment, and this confidence doesn’t just run skin deep. I am beyond excited to be working alongside Andrea and Nicci at esprit Magazine. Unlike how the The Devil Wears Prada movie portrays, they both welcomed me into the world of magazines with open arms. The only similarity I will note is that Andrea truly is the Meryl Streep of the beauty industry and too deserves an Academy Award. Together we have combined forces to deliver the latest news to the retail beauty industry, both in the enduring print magazine and our new online digital offerings. We will be keeping you updated across all our platforms and will bring you the content you know and love in new formats. I am thrilled you’re here to join us for the ride!

01.

Sustainable success for Weleda Weleda, global market leader in certified natural and organic skincare and anthroposophic medicines, published its Annual and Sustainability Report for the year, highlighting the brands’ vision and purpose to take care of nature, people and society. KEY POINTS

“We have always farmed organically, putting the planet before profit and looking at the long-term sustainable benefits our business can deliver to help support people and the planet. Whether it’s through fair trade, biodynamic cultivation, or responsible use of environmental resources 02. – sustainability is part of our roots,” says David Johnston, Managing Director Weleda Australia. “With the new report 01. PROMOTING REGENERATIVE FARMING AND PRESERVING we outline our sustainability programme for the entire BIODIVERSITY. WELEDA HAS BEEN INVOLVED IN BEE-FRIENDLY Weleda group and commit to some comprehensive and SEED BREEDING SINCE 2005 ambitious objectives globally over the next four years”. 02. APPRECIATIVE COOPERATION SINCE 2011: RIK KUTSCH LOJENGA A key pillar of Weleda’s sustainability programme is the FROM UEBT WITH ANNETTE promotion of regenerative farming as a contribution to PIPERIDIS FROM WELEDA climate protection and the preservation of biodiversity. At present, the organic proportion of natural raw materials in Weleda products is more than 80%, with the share coming from biodynamic cultivation expected to grow from around 10% to 30% by 2022. In cooperation with the Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT), Weleda was the first European company to set up and certify a management system for the entire supply chain of all raw materials used in its natural and organic skincare. Weleda intends to create even greater transparency regarding true costs. This type of cost accounting takes into account the negative and positive external effects of raw material procurement. A pilot project to determine the costs of two important raw materials has already been successfully completed. Weleda seeks ecologically sustainable solutions for its packaging at all levels. By 2022, the proportion of recycled material in packaging for natural and organic skincare is expected to more than double. Together with its market partners, the company is developing new ways to reduce packaging, improve recycling options and create new designs and packaging systems. Weleda has set itself the goal of having the entire Group B-Corp-certified worldwide by 2022. The international B-Corp sustainability movement requires the entire company to consistently focus on meaningfulness and a demonstrable positive impact on people and nature. Sustainable innovations will continue to be an important driver of growth in the future. With careful market research and the establishment of an Idea Factory, Weleda aims to ensure the identification of ideas that are effective in the long term. Thanks to a tighter focus, fewer innovations are to be developed, but with more relevance for consumers. FOR MORE INFORMATION

LET’S CONNECT

Please help me feed our hungry newborns with news and story suggestions to: sarah@esprit-magazine.com.au 38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Weleda Annual and Sustainability Report: https://weledaintprod.global.ssl.fastly. net/binaries/content/assets/pdf/corporate/weleda_gb_2018_uk_ds.pdf More about Weleda’s world of Sustainable Beauty: https://www.weleda.com.au/ our-story/sustainability/sustainable-beauty

Sign up to take on this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dry July challenge, or support someone else who has, and you can help fund 400 Look Good Feel Better workshops across Australia. You can participate alone, or take on the challenge as part of a team. To register or donate, visit dryjuly.com/LookGoodFeelBetter

INDUSTRY NEWS

Britain’s Beauty

Best

01.

Childs Farm UK DEBUTS IN WOOLIES

WITH THE BABY MOISTURISER BEING SOLD ONE EVERY 14 SECONDS IN THE UK, THE FAMILY-FAVOURITE, SENSITIVE TOILETRIES BRAND FOR BABY AND CHILD LAUNCHES IN AUSTRALIA BRICKS-AND-MORTAR AT WOOLWORTHS. During its Australian debut the term ‘Childs Farm’ was searched more than ‘BBQ’ on Google Australia just six months ago. With a soaring online business Down Under the founder forged an export strategy and has put Childs Farm, the UK’s fastest growing baby and child toiletries brand, into 900 Woolworths stores nationwide. Woolworths has begun stocking four products from the children’s range, including both the famed Baby Moisturiser and exclusive to Woolworths, the 2 in 1 Hair Organic Rhubarb and Custard shampoo & conditioner. Head of Buying – Non Food for Woolworths, James Hepworth, said at the launch; “We are looking forward to introducing the Childs Farm brand to millions of Australians. We are committed to offering only the highest-quality products in our children’s toiletries category and are pleased to be working closely with Childs Farm, to introduce their products onto our shelves.” The move into the Australian market is the latest development in a period of extraordinary growth for the brand, which was created in 2011 by entrepreneur and mum of two, Joanna Jensen. Ah…the back story! Using naturally derived ingredients and fruity fragranced essential oils and extracts, it is one of the very few baby and child ranges to undergo clinical tests and independent user trials, certifying that the products are dermatologically tested and approved, and paediatrician approved as suitable for newborns and upwards, even those with sensitive and eczema prone skin. Attributing the brand’s phenomenal success to advocacy from real mums, sales of the baby moisturiser have skyrocketed following reviews from satisfied customers on social media and in the press in Australia. This has resulted in floods of enquiries about the product from across the country. Jensen adds: “We’ve seen huge growth of the business in Australia since launch due to high consumer demand, predominantly driven through word of mouth recommendations on social media and the press. So, the natural next step for us was to launch into Woolworths.” Childs Farm currently retails across 7000 stores in the UK and nine international markets. Today, it holds a 20 per cent share of the branded Baby Toiletries category and is closing the gap to Johnson’s Baby aiming to become the largest Baby & Child Toiletries brand in the UK in 2019.* Sources: *by volume All figures: Kantar Worldpanel UK market data, Baby toiletries category (excl wipes), 52 weeks to 31 Dec 2018 40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

01. JOANNA JENSEN WITH HER DAUGHTERS MIMI AND BELLA, WHO INSPIRED HER TO CREATE HER OWN TOILETRIES BRAND FOR CHILDREN

Aussie-made is a major drawcard in our region, yet we love to know what’s going on internationally. Looking at London’s recent beauty awards by the leading association there – Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), gives an insight into what’s hot in the influential UK market. CEW members, guests and press recently gathered to celebrate the winners of the 2019 CEW Beauty Awards, presented by Lucy Horobin. From 31 winners CEW name four noteworthy brands: Charlotte Tilbury, Drunk Elephant, The Handmade Soap Company and Elemis. With Amazon Beauty and Sainsbury’s as the headline sponsors, the Awards this year received just under 300 entries across 31 categories. KEY HIGHLIGHTS FROM 2019 CEW BEAUTY AWARDS

The Responsible Beauty Award sponsored by Givaudan is a new category this year and saw The Handmade Soap Company as the winner. The Handmade Soap Company prides itself on its products being 99.7% natural. Also named: ‘Best Hand or Food Product – Mass & Prestige’ category and ‘Best New Brand – Mass’. Elemis saw four outstanding wins – being awarded the prestigious seal of approval in ‘Best New Targeted Skincare – Prestige’, ‘Best New Mask – Prestige’, ‘Best Beauty Icon - Prestige’ and ‘Best New Vegan Beauty Product – Mass & Prestige’. For all the winners see www.esprit-magazine.com.au: British Beauty Industry Awards recognising beauty’s best.

INDUSTRY NEWS 01.

La Prairie spreads its wings Renowned in the industry as the luxury customer service innovators, La Prairie has a new collaboration Heinemann Australia offering what the team describe as a world–first experience for clients travelling through Sydney International Airport Departures. La Prairie The Art of Luxury will offer this to guests until September 2019. “We are bringing a unique immersive experience to Sydney Airport to allow guests to select either a luxury treatment in a private suite, or an express service that can be performed on counter,” says La Prairie Managing Director Australia and New Zealand, Rosi Fernandez. “After much hard work and collaboration, we’re proud to continue our successful partnership with La Prairie. The space’s design, innovation and customer experience are truly unique to the brand, and we are excited to continuously elevate the travel retail experience at Heinemann Tax & Duty Free, Sydney Airport,” comments Richard Goodman, Managing Director Heinemann Australia.

PRIVACY AND EXQUISITE COMFORT

Luxury treatments will be conducted for 20 minutes in a private beauty suite following a 10-minute personal consultation (30 minutes in total). The facials include a deep cleansing facial massage and application of decadent La Prairie products to ensure the client’s skin is flight-ready. Clients will be offered a treatment from the Platinum Rare, Skin Caviar or White Caviar Collections that best suits their skincare concerns. Luxury treatments will be available with any purchase from La Prairie made on the day of treatment. Flight called but FOMO on the luxury – there’s Express services – 10 minutes – also available. Open until September 2019. 01. SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DEPARTURES – NEW HOME TO LA PRAIRIE THE ART OF LUXURY SERVICES

Bonjoir Buly! L’Officine Universelle Buly is a modernday apothecary brand recently launched exclusively into Mecca Cosmetica. A delightful debut, the Australian customer now has access to this beautiful Parisian range. Known for its incredible boutiques spanning Paris, Hong Kong, Japan, Seoul, Taipei, London, San Francisco and Copenhagen, each Buly store has its own individual design and unique set of characteristics. This individualistic approach has been applied to the Buly display in each of the Mecca Cosmetica boutiques.

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Susannah McCorry at the Londonbased PR office knows the market here having formerly worked at MECCA PR office at Melbourne HQ. She tells us:

“Blending 19th century health and beauty secrets with modern day innovations, Buly’s range seeks to draw on the virtues of natural ingredients. With products that were dreamed up in Paris and formulated in a French laboratory, their water-based perfumes, healing oils, unique candles and diffusers, natural toothpastes and opulent accessories all remain true to the teachings of ancient recipes and practices. Buly 1803 revisits tradition and brings the heritage of beauty into the present through the research of contemporary laboratories, delivering products that both nurture and excite”. Ooh la la! 01. L’OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |41

INDUSTRY NEWS

That’s a Wrap for Sustainability An Australian soap that has a wrapper made with new sustainable qualities has won a major New Zealand printing industry honour. It was announced at the prestigious, annual Pride In Print awards. Kiwi company, Gravure Packaging, based in Wellington, New Zealand picked up Best in Category for Industry Development & Creativity, plus a gold medal, for its Balnea Care Coconut & Lime 100g soap wrapping. The innovative heat sealing application on the packaging is potentially saving 4000kg of PET plastic film, 2600kg of petrochemical wax and 660kg of glue from landfill each year, and wowed judges who said it was unique compared to other entries. One Pride In Print judge, Fraser Gardyne says it was amazing how much waste annually the company had saved with the innovation on this one job alone. “It’s biodegradable and recyclable so you can chuck it into your compost bin or your paper recycling.” Balnea soap is manufactured by Pental in Shepparton, Victoria for Woolworths. It is made, wrapped and distributed from there. Gravure Packaging has been supplying the soap wrapper to Pental for some years, and while it has been sustainable in terms of being plastic free, it hasn’t been until now fully biodegradable. Go Gravure!

endota pre-flight pampering Sydney International Airport has a new place of pampering - endota Light & Hydration ‘express facial studio’.

Australia’s leading day spa network, endota, launches its second Light & Hydration studio. This being in Sydney International Airport; the first located in Perth, WA. The space offers facial treatments for busy travellers at 30 minutes and under. The concept is set to make wellness and self-care more accessible to travellers, in particular boosting their skin hydration levels prior to flying. “Flights are known to significantly dehydrate skin, with the potential for people to lose up to 8% of their bodily water on a 10-hour flight. That’s why we want to create a haven where travellers can take a moment out during any waiting times, to look after their skin prior to flying,” says Helen Robb Lacey, Senior Educator endota. Tweaked to be flight-friendly, endota’s services include: Light Therapy facial treatment bursts, designed to give customers instant results such as plump, radiant skin; facial treatments are performed in an open setting, which doesn’t require clients to get undressed and allows therapists to care for clients efficiently; LED Light Therapy Power Boost (30-min session). Referred to as a retail studio, the footprint showcases the brand’s interactive and customer centric retail design. Customers can buy curated product packs, which provide a range of benefits for various skincare concerns, including hydration, balance and protection. ENDOTA SPA’S SERVICE & SHOPPING AT SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

BENEFIT BOLD IS BEAUTIFUL Benefit’s Bold Is Beautiful project was established to give women and girls the resources to BE BOLD, BELIEVE in themselves, and ACHIEVE 100% of their full potential. Every May, Benefit donates 100% of profits from brow wax services at Benefit BrowBars in Myer to Australian Charities Look Good Feel Better, Fitted For Work and Sister2Sister. To raise added awareness, Benefit Australia collaborated with apparel brand Skin and Threads to design a limited edition ‘HERO’ t-shirt. The two brands joined forces with a simple mission, which is the belief that with the right support and encouragement, every girl has the power to reach her full potential and become her own super hero. The t-shirt sold for $49 with all profits donated to the three charity partner’s charities. 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

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01. HANNAH MUTZE - NATIONAL BROW ARTIST, TINTING BROWS

02. LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER CHARITY PARTNER

INDUSTRY NEWS 01. THE TEAM THAT MAKES UP COSMESERVICE 02. THE JUNE 12TH WEBINAR EXPLAINED KEY POINTS

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New European labelling regulations The European Regulation 655/2013 that regulates cosmetic marketing claims has just become more restrictive. Why? Here, Miriam Fernández – Corporate Communications at COSMESERVICE, the industry advisory body, explains the key points of the new regulations and what they mean to brands that are selling in Europe now and in the future. Cosmeservice offers comprehensive advice/service to cosmetic manufacturers and distributors around the world that want to introduce their cosmetic product(s) in the European Market to make sure their products are in compliance with the European Regulation. From now, (July 2019) in Europe, we cannot make the claim that a product is free from parabens or preservative because these substances are not bad for human health, so if we claim this we suppose that other cosmetic products that have these substances are worse than ours, and that is not true. Another commonly used claim - “cruelty free” - is now also not permitted since testing the products on animals is banned by the Regulation, so, in this case we are claiming something that is obvious. However, we can claim that our product is free from microbeads or palm oil because this corroborates our commitment to the environment. As required by the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC No 1223/2009, Article 20), the acceptability of a claim made on a cosmetic product is determined by its compliance with the common criteria. Established by the EU Commission and the EU Member States, these six common criteria (namely Legal compliance, Truthfulness, Evidential Support, Honesty, Fairness and Informed decisionmaking) are reported in Regulation EU No 655/2013.

verifying and confirming a very low allergenic potential of the product through scientifically robust and statistically reliable data. To stay on the safe side, Cosmeservice strongly recommends that cosmetic brands comply with these guidelines. Requirements laid down in Annex III and IV of these guidelines started to apply on July 1st, 2019. “While it is awkward to provide a deadline for a nonlegally-binding document, the National Authorities and Courts of Justice have likely started to use these guidelines as a reference from this date”, Fernández tells esprit. So, now that you know a little bit more about these claims, go ahead and do a self-audit assessment of your products across labels, marketing and advertisements. In order to clarify all these claims and give some examples of do’s and don’ts, you can ask Cosmeservice if you have any doubts. “And if you need technical advice also contact Cosmeservice - we are European Cosmetic Regulation experts and Safety Assessors”, offers Fernández. TO FIND OUT MORE

CLAIMS EXPLAINED

Claims such as: Heavy metals free, Free from formaldehyde, Preservative free, Fragrance Free, Paraben Free and Animal-derived ingredients free in Vegan products are all on the “no-go” list. The claim “hypoallergenic” can only be used in cases, where the cosmetic product has been designed to minimise its allergenic potential. Evidence to support the claim must be available by

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Stonebrick LEGO-LIKE COSMETICS

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Retail pop-up maestros MEA When brands wants to showcase their launch with a retail pop-up they get in the big guns, MEA…the experts in traffic stopping and customer consultations. “No longer is it the norm or even viable for brands in brick-and-motar retail today to just expect the customer to come into to store to them. Brands need to take risks, be daring, engaging and bring theatrics back into play within the cold face of today’s consumer”, says Edward Kaleel, CEO MEA. Brands are doing this today by creating a Branded Experiential World mixed in with the right BA team that knows how to disrupt, attract, delight and entice the consumer’s senses enough to stop them dead in their tracks, to be sampled and then taken on a short brand journey that might just happen to lead to a sale that may never have happened in store. When brands come to us, the brief is simple. If the customer isn’t coming to us, then let’s go take our brand to them. MEA’s role is often the most crucial part to the

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overall success, by having to provide that crucial human layer of dynamically trained customer centric Brand Advisors (be it for fragrance, beauty or from a myriad of other product and service pillars we work with nationally) who know how to traffic stop! It’s a known fact that what might work well in store from a BA’s perspective, doesn’t always translate to success in the outdoor Pop-Up space. The key to being the right fit for a brand Pop-Up is, they must be a Traffic Stopper, one whose smile, coupled with the right body & speak language, allows them to comfortably traffic stop consumers who are often head down, going from A to B and not wanting to be disturbed. The key is knowing it’s all a numbers game for the BA. The more consumers they talk too with passion and love of what they are doing, the greater the chance it translates into $$s. 01. MONT BLANC POP-UP, SYDNEY 02. MARC EDWARD AGENCY (MEA) EXPERTISE

STONEBRICK COLOUR COSMETICS - THEIR DESIGN DRIVEN BY THE CUSTOMISATION TREND

This one caught our eye… unsurprisingly hailing from that hotbed in innovation, South Korea. Driven by a packaging concept, the creative agency, Established, developed a whole new brand of cosmetics for Korea’s largest retailer, Emart (part of Shinsegae Group). Thinking “customisation” as the beauty world is, the idea behind the line is to allow the customer to buy a tailor-made set of cosmetics in a playful, fun and creative way. The target audience is in their early 20s. In designing the new line - called Stonebrick - Established has developed the first fully customisable makeup range with individual components magnetising together to create custom collections. Individual eyeshadow bricks magnet onto a choice of base sizes allowing the consumer to create their choice of palette. Lipsticks and face products also magnet together in different combinations for endless possibilities, collectibility, and fun. “We designed every aspect of the brand including packaging, graphics, identity, campaign photography and video assets as well as in-store look and feel”, states the agency. Stonebrick is the second cosmetics brand from Emart, the hypermarket wing of Shinsegae, which launched Sentence, a cost-effective total skincare brand, in 2016.

INDUSTRY NEWS 01.

The Body Shop “Our planet is drowning in plastic”, reads The Body Shop press info. It’s more a battle cry than bemoaning the fact, and a bandwagon that is weekly gathering supporters who can make changes. The tide has turned in 2019 and we hear more and more encouraging stories from Conscious Companies and Conscious Consumers about new ways of working to eventually rule out this scourge of the earth. No action is too small: “It’s only one straw”, said 1 billion people. The Body Shop info continues: “The devastating effect of plastic waste on our oceans is well known. However, there is a human element to the plastic crisis, which is rarely discussed. Over 3bn people live without formal waste management – that’s almost half the planet’s population. This has given rise to an informal waste picking economy. Some of the world’s most marginalised people pick untreated waste to try to make a living. These waste pickers, many of them women, often live below the poverty line, work in appalling conditions and are shunned by society. Yet they form a critical line of defence in stopping plastic from entering our rivers and oceans”. That’s why The Body Shop has launched its first Community Trade recycled plastic scheme, in partnership with Plastics For Change. Community Trade is The Body Shop’s bespoke and independently verified fair trade program. Walking away from plastic altogether is not the answer. If used responsibly and given value, plastic can be sustainable. COMMUNITY TRADE RECYCLED PLASTIC FROM BENGALURU, INDIA

India alone has 1.5 million waste pickers who collect and sort over 6,000 tonnes of plastic every day that would otherwise pollute our rivers and oceans. The

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majority of India’s waste pickers are Dalits, previously known as ‘untouchables’. This means that they have virtually no visibility in society and have limited rights. They are vulnerable to discrimination, poor living and working conditions and an unpredictable payment system for the plastic they collect. “I have been picking waste for around 30 years, since I was a child. This is a really tough and physically demanding industry to be in. Waste pickers face all kinds of hardships, including harassment, late payments and health issues. However, through waste picking I have managed to raise a family and send my children to college. I am really proud of what I do. I believe we play a very important role in keeping cities clean and helping to recycle the huge amounts of plastic waste that society produces.” Annamma, former waste picker and current Dry Waste Collection Centre Manager, Bengaluru. With over three decades of working with disadvantaged communities around the world, The Body Shop is applying its expertise to help tackle the plastic crisis. An abundance of recyclable plastic already exists. In partnership with Plastics for Change, The Body Shop has started using Community Trade recycled plastic in its 250ml haircare bottles, soon including its bestselling Ginger Shampoo with one bottle sold every four seconds*. The bottles will contain 100% recycled plastic (excluding the bottle caps). 15% of that will be Community

SHAMPOO IN RECYCLED PLASTIC BOTTLES

02. NASEEMA - WASTE PICKER

Trade recycled plastic; the remainder will be recycled plastic from European sources. The Body Shop will increase the amount of Community Trade Recycled plastic over time. Working with a start-up company and small waste picker communities means starting small and scaling up in a responsible and sustainable manner. THE BODY SHOP LAUNCHES NEW IN-STORE RECYCLING SCHEME

Community Trade recycled plastic is just one part of the company’s commitment to making its packaging more sustainable. With global recycling pioneers TerraCycle, The Body Shop is making recycling empty packaging easier and more accessible starting in five countries - UK, Australia, Canada, France and Germany - customers can return their empty bottles, jars, tubs, tubes and pots, in store, so TerraCycle® can recycle, where possible, in the local market environment. If recycling is not possible, TerraCycle® will repurpose the packaging into new consumer products such as benches or watering cans. All stores** within these markets will feature a recycling bin where customers can return any five empty products from The Body Shop and receive an incentive***. * Based on global sales 12/12/2017 to 11/12/2018 of all product sizes of this formula (selling period of 12 hours per day, 7 days per week). ** Excludes a select few stores due safety reasons. *** Ts & Cs apply. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |45

INDUSTRY NEWS 01.

MCo champions luxe for less Shelley Sullivan, has been pioneering in beauty since the early 90s, when the 21-year old Shelley Barrett set up her own modelling agency, Shelley’s Management Group. The company represented more than 1,800 models for over eight years. A decade later she saw a gap in the market for innovative, dual-purpose beauty solutions and founded her own beauty brand ModelCo (2002). Her distinct point of difference was her experience working with models and makeup artist on shoots who would concoct and improvise creatively. If what they needed on photo shoots and ‘behind the scenes’ wasn’t available, they made it themselves. The first ModelCo product was a ground breaker – the heated eyelash curler followed by the world’s first aerosol spray tan. Today, in 2019, MCoBeauty has evolved out of the success of ModelCo championing the luxe for less beauty category with a range of purposeful, cruelty-free beauty solutions for $30 or less, working especially closely with Woolworths, across Australia. It comes under Sullivan’s umbrella of The Innovative Brands Group. “The Innovative Brands Group is a brand builder. Technology has enabled the global consumer to find brands that deliver what they want. This has been great for the consumer and great for the industry. Technology is however only one of many contributors that go into a good cosmetics business. We have 20 years of experience and are in search of brands that we believe have a unique offer. We will help them reach their potential,” says Shelley Sullivan, CEO & Founder. The first two cosmetics brands owned by the IBG are ModelCo and MCoBeauty, both creations of Sullivan. 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

02. 01. MICHELLE SINGH – BRAND & MARKETING MANAGER – MCOBEAUTY CHATS THROUGH NEW LAUNCHES FROM THE BRAND WITH BONNIE GILLES - @OZBEAUTYEXPERT

02. MCOBEAUTY LUXE FOR LESS AT WOOLIES 03. POWDER COMPACTS FOR EYE AND CHEEK

MCoBeauty has been created to dominate this accessibly price premium beauty category. It is a complete, purposeful range that has clearly been developed with the customer in mind, she explains. “The MCoBeauty range has a price point that makes it available to everyone. We have not compromised quality rather tailored the range to products that allow a lower price point, and then we focused our attention on making the products the best in the market. “We have gained enormous insight to our loyal customer base because of our global collaborations, retail expansion and investment in e-commerce. We have some very exciting brand developments and product innovation coming to our customers in 2019!” she says. Sullivan has famously not got to where she is today by standing still. Over time, IBG will look to acquire brands that strategically fit in the portfolio. The IBG also has a bespoke marketing division that manages brand collaborations and licencing deals with global beauty, fashion and lifestyle brands. She explains that the recent success with fashion label Karl Lagerfeld has seen other global icons approach IBG for ideas around differentiation. “Our products are consumables that just about every adult uses and loves. We have some exciting deals coming up. Whether

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it’s a collaboration, gift with purchase or a white label license deal, we have great ideas on how other brands, from just about any industry, can leverage cosmetics for the benefit of their customers”, says Shelley. MCoBeauty’s makeup range launches seasonal collections with 30% of the new launches being driven by trend, Michelle Singh – Brand & Marketing Manager tells esprit. “New for Winter 2019 are a mini razor for ‘peach fluff’ facial hair; there’s a winged eyeliner stamp and a beauty balm makeup remover. There’s never any compromise on quality but the price point stays under $30 – a brand pillar – and always cruelty free.” NPD is led by Social Listening, so we understand what consumers and media think about the brand, she says. “We have an ethos of being driven by the customer”.

esprit Magazine promotion

Thicker, Younger, Stronger - Ã©volis Professional Offers the Biggest Breakthrough in Topical Hair Loss and Protection Treatments for All Age Groups by Elisabeth King

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |47

Treating hair loss has a long history dating back to the ancient Egyptians, but the problem has become a lot worse. The global alopecia market is expected to reach US$12.37 billion by 2025, reports Grand View Research. The lion’s share of revenues - US$7.24 billion in 2018 - going to the treatment of androgenetic alopecia, the most common form of hair loss in men and women.

Because it is closely linked to the selfesteem, appearance and health of consumers, treating hair loss has always fast-tracked innovation and has become one of the biggest trends in personal care. The expanding availability of more advanced OTC products and the increasing preference for natural, safe, non-invasive alternatives that are easy to apply are strong drivers of growth in all major regional markets - the US, Europe and Asia/Pacific - says Maria Halasz, Managing Director of life sciences firm Cellmid, the makers of the game-changing évolis Professional range. “Consumers are increasingly going to pharmacies for their health and beauty needs, especially for proven and effective alternatives in the hair loss category”. GLOBAL HAIR LOSS EPIDEMIC

Definitive data on the extent of hair loss in Australia is difficult to source. But statistics in other developed and fast-growing emerging markets show the problem has become an epidemic in people of all ages. According to the American Hair Loss Association, 85 per cent of men and 40 per cent of women will experience hair loss by the age of 50. Genetics is a primary cause, but hair loss is accelerated by modern day behaviours: sedentary lifestyles, unhealthy diets, pollution and styling damage. Over the past decade, hair loss has also increased dramatically in younger people in the US and over 60 per cent of men under the age of 35 have suffered from some hair loss. The same trend has emerged in China. A research study conducted by Tsinghua 48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

University in Beijing discovered that 60 per cent of younger respondents suffered from hair loss due to irregular schedules, work stress and insomnia. In 2017, Taobao, the world’s largest e-commerce website owned by Alibaba, reported that hair loss products were among its top 40 best-selling SKUs with younger consumers accounting for 40 per cent of sales. A recent study by the China Association of Health Promotion and Education reveals that the potential market for hair loss products in China is a huge 250 million consumers, most of whom are aged in their 20s and 40s. WOMEN FUELING MULTI-BILLION DOLLAR MARKET GROWTH/ CLINICAL VALIDATION

The increasing awareness amongst women about hair loss has moved from a back story to a multi-billion dollar business worldwide. Apart from ageing and genetics, women are also more susceptible to hair loss because of the widespread use of hair colourants, chemical treatments, hair extensions and tight hairstyles such as buns and ponytails. According to a study by Wakefield Research, women who experience stress or who take regular medications are also more likely to experience hair loss. No one knows this better than Halasz herself. “Hair loss and thinning are such an emotional experience. I began to lose hair at the age of 40 and hunted frantically for a solution. Nothing seemed to work until I went on a business trip to Japan and discovered a hair loss technology brand with ingredients blocking FGF5. This protein is

the “master controller “of the hair’s natural cycle of growth and rest and can accumulate in the scalp causing hair loss. I started using the FGF5-blocking products and was amazed at the results, so we acquired the company that owned the technology”. Halasz says that the évolis Professional range is the biggest breakthrough in topical hair loss treatments in 30 years. A claim backed by more than firsthand experience. She has been involved in biotech companies for over 20 years and has a science degree in microbiology from the University of Western Australia. Since becoming managing director of ASX-listed Cellmid in 2007, the company has become a diversified life sciences business with a strong focus on clinical studies and proven results for hair loss but also conducts research in the treatment of cancer and inflammatory diseases. “It’s crucial to us as a biotechnology company that we do not make claims unless we can show evidence from proper clinical studies”, she adds. NATURAL, RESULTS-DRIVEN ALTERNATIVE/ THREE COLLECTIONS COVER ALL BASES

évolis commercially launched on the Australian market in 2015 and quickly grew, initially selling 80% of its products to women. With the addition of the évolis Professional 3 step range in mid-2018 both men and women now account equally for the company’s sales. The original technology was 12 years in development, and a subject of a clinical study in Japan. When we bought it, we conducted a further four-month clinical study in the US to assess its efficacy on a variety of hair types, says Halasz. “évolis Professional is the first clinically validated, plant-based, topical hair loss treatment on the market and the feedback has been amazing. Botanical actives such as Rosa multiflora and Sanguisorba officianalis, the anti-FGF5 extract, keratin, wheat proteins and concentrated antioxidants form the core of the entire évolis range. After four months of regular use of our hero product “The Activator” - there is a dramatic reduction in hair loss and increased hair growth”. Many consumers also point out that we have overcome the smells that are associated with hair loss products containing minoxidil, says Halasz. “Building on its suitability as a natural alternative in pharmacy, évolis provides free hair assessment with the évoliscope, a unique service only available in selected pharmacies and clinics. Women and men can monitor the condition of their hair

esprit Magazine promotion

and its health in just two minutes. This approach allows us to talk to customers from all age groups. Younger women, for example, are more interested in hair length. While an increasing number of younger men are looking to reverse hair loss”. évolis Professional covers all bases and offers three collections. The Reverse Hair Restoration System includes the hero Activator, a shampoo, conditioner and hair mask. In our US consumer studies, 100 per cent of testers reported new hair growth after 90 days, says Halasz. “But many women of all ages want to grow longer, healthier hair. The Promote range also contains the super moisturiser baobab and increases hair length by up to 20 per cent over normal growth. The Prevent range is infused with mangosteen, goji berry and green tea to maintain and protect healthy hair and feed the scalp”. There’s little point gaining with one hand and taking away with the other by

using styling products that could undo the good work. That’s why évolis Professional is developing a range of styling products”, says Halasz. “Consumers can also protect their scalp and hair from the sun with our Shield + Treat Hair Protector with SPF30, add an extra layer of treatment with Reconstruct + Mend Hair Therapy and clean their hair between washes with Style +Treat Dry Shampoo. Dry shampoo is one of the fastest growing categories in the global haircare market, but many products contain too many chemicals and fillers. Our dry shampoo contains hypoallergenic rice powder and is a clean product. Better still, it produces incredible root lift”. EFFICACY AND PROVEN RESULTS BOOST INTERNATIONAL DEMAND

The efficacy of évolis Professional products has fueled international demand. “We launched in the US in 2017 and are

MARIA HALASZ, MANAGING DIRECTOR, CELLMID, THE MAKERS OF ÉVOLIS PROFESSIONAL RANGE

stocked in prestigious department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Bergdorf Goodman”, says Halasz. We are also targeting the American spa market, following amazing write-ups in leading US publications including Marie Claire, Elle, Cosmopolitan and WWD. The drugstore market in the US has also become more sophisticated, as it has in Australia, and we are looking closely at this important distribution channel in addition to expanding our e-commerce capabilities”. Increased hair loss problems are also grabbing headlines in Europe, the second largest regional hair loss treatment market. “We have currently preparing our online launch with Douglas, the largest perfumery and cosmetics chain in Europe with 1900 stores. Germany is the largest natural beauty and personal care market in Europe and we expect to launch on the German QVC shopping channel sometime in 2020”. The Asia/Pacific region is the fastestgrowing hair loss regional market, led by China and India. Last May, Cellmid entered an exclusive agreement with Beijing Fukangren Bio-pharm Tech in China. “The market potential is incredible”, says Halasz. “The deal has two stages. Fukangren will register évolis products with the SFDA (State Food & Drug Administration), the Chinese regulator, and then distribute the products in the Chinese market. Hair loss is one of the most popular searches online in China”.

Retailers – are you interested in become a stockist for évolis Professional? Please call 02 9233 8975 or email Sales Director Gary McCaw at mccaw@advangen.com.au www.evolisproducts.com.au

LEFT: ÉVOLIS PROVIDES FREE HAIR ASSESSMENT WITH THE ÉVOLISCOPE, A UNIQUE SERVICE ONLY AVAILABLE IN SELECTED PHARMACIES AND CLINICS ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |49

Australia’s #1 Foundation Revlon ColorStayTM

just got a new twist!

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esprit Magazine promotion

A flawless complexion is the foundation to any makeup look. It’s as simple as that. Our face for work or our look for the evening; lips and lashes, brows and bronzer just don’t look as fabulous without that clear complexion that brings an inner confidence, knowing you’re putting your best face forward. This is exactly the reason Revlon ColorStayTM is the #1 foundation in mass cosmetics* with more dollars sold of Revlon ColorStayTM than any other foundation in the Pharmacy and Grocery channels. It’s trusted more than any other foundation* to deliver a life-proof and long-wearing flawless finish for up to 24 hours that doesn’t rub off or transfer onto clothes. Now there’s a new twist! The foundation Australian women love is now better than ever in a new, convenient twist & go format. Understanding the importance women place on the confidence of their makeup lasting through whatever the day presents, Revlon created the revolutionary longwear category in mass cosmetics with cult product Revlon ColorStay™ Makeup launching in the early 90s and remaining a consumer favourite today. With no compromise on comfort, the advanced formula features a patented technology that provides beautifully wearable long-lasting results. With time-release technology, a flawless finish can be created that lasts… and lasts. The 24-hour wear claim also comes with patented ‘won’t rub off’ technology that doesn’t transfer onto clothes. Another loved advantage is that Revlon ColorStay™ Makeup speaks to a range of skin types; the best-selling foundation is available in a matte finish for combination or oily skin and a natural finish for normal or dry skin. Now Revlon presents the same cult product and longwearing benefits in a new twist & go stick. New Revlon ColorStay Life-Proof™ Foundation Stick plays into convenience while delivering the same long lasting 24 hour wear of its #1 liquid foundation formula. The ultra-pigmented formula has buildable coverage with a super-gliding texture that gives a flawless semi-matte finish. There’s 11 shades from pale Ivory through Beige tones to deep Caramel to choose from. Multi-tasking is inevitable for women today, and their makeup should multi-task too: Revlon packs

SPF 27 into the formula while the twist & go format also works perfectly to conceal, touch-up or even contour. Using the new foundation stick to minimise imperfections is easy, simply apply the super-gliding foundation directly to skin and use your fingers to blend over the face for a traceless, second skin look. Use the Revlon Buffing Foundation Brush to buff and blend the weightless foundation into skin for an ultimately professional look. New Revlon ColorStay Life-Proof™ Foundation is the cult foundation you love, now better than ever. Team the new stick with your favourite ColorStay™ liquid foundation to conceal, touch up or contour on the go, it’s the perfect addition to any Revlon ColorStay™ lover’s foundation collection. This foundation is the multi-tasking hero every foundation user needs. RRP $24.95 at department stores, discount department stores, major grocery stores and pharmacies nationwide, from JULY! *IRI Market Edge Australia Grocery Pharmacy Foundation Trademark Value Sales Year 2018

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |51

THE RISE OF

Active Skin Care

AMPERNA® is the first Active Probiotic Skincare range in Australia formulated to help people achieve their best skin. Pioneered by founder Kiri Yanchenko, the inception of this range was born from her struggle with common skin conditions and no product available to help repair her sensitive skin. Skin is one of our most important organs, responsible for three main functions: protection, regulation and sensation. It is the biggest determinant of our appearance and sometimes referred to as the window into our general health & well-being. It is no wonder that when our skin health is compromised, it can have a devastating effect on our health, self-esteem and emotional state. Many of us will come up against common skin issues in our lifetime, which include eczema, psoriasis, acne, rosacea and urticaria (known as hives). In fact, it is estimated that up to 85% of Australians will develop acne in their life and 10% of adults currently suffer from eczema. These skin conditions can range in severity from manageable to unbearable and call for a range of treatment options.

Women are affected both physically and emotionally by the appearance of their skin. They’re looking for an effective, affordable solution they can trust. – Kiri Yanchenko, AMPERNA® founder

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KIRI’S STORY

Kiri Yanchenko, founder of AMPERNA® is one of the many Australians who has struggled with adult acne. When she was 30, her father developed a serious illness. His health deteriorated quickly, and Kiri, being his sole carer, soon found herself battling with her own health issues. To help deal with the situation, she was prescribed medication, which had acute side effects. She rapidly dropped 15 kilograms and her skin went from normal to unbearable almost overnight. Initially, she developed a severe case of pustular acne that was so painful she could not sleep at night. She then developed perioral dermatitis, a common facial irritation that manifests as spots and flaky skin around the mouth and chin. Kiri searched for treatment options and in her search, she was prescribed a topical steroid. Instead of helping her condition, it actually made it worse. Her perioral dermatitis spread, soon covering the bottom of her face. With sore, flaky and inflamed skin, Kiri was desperate to find a solution.

esprit Magazine promotion

THE GAP BETWEEN NATURAL SKIN CARE AND PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION

Kiri found through trial and error that no therapeutic skin care products on the Australian market worked for her condition. Her skin reacted to many common irritants including sulfates, parabens and synthetic fragrances. She knew her skin needed help to return to its healthy balance and was looking for an ultra-gentle skincare range that contained key active ingredients, but she couldn’t find one. She endeavoured to find an answer for her condition through researching medical studies on skin health and acne. She discovered a link between acne and bacteria, with some strains triggering the problem and others helping prevent it. Another discovery she made to help skin health were glycolic acids to help acne lesions. 02.

01.

THE INCEPTION OF AMPERNA ®

Identifying there was a gap in the market for active skin care, gentle enough for sensitive skin, Kiri set about developing the solution herself. She pioneered for 5 years to develop the AMPERNA® range, working in conjunction with one of Australia’s most experienced skincare chemists and testing with people suffering relevant skin conditions. Using a combination of natural active ingredients, along with tried and tested ingredients of modern science, she developed formulas that help promote an optimal healthy holistic skin balance. AMPERNA® is the bridge between between 100% natural skin care and prescription medication. AMPERNA ® AWARD-WINNING SKINCARE RANGE HELPING PEOPLE WITH SKIN CONDITIONS

AMPERNA® is an Australian owned, ethical skincare brand, dedicated to creating revolutionary and unique formulas to help rebalance and transform the appearance of skin. AMPERNA® has been internationally-recognised by the skincare industry for the effectiveness of their products. The skincare is holistic and effective, driven by Kiri’s deep personal understanding of the challenges faced by having problem skin. The ingredients in AMPERNA® help create the perfect conditions for your skin to shine. The products contain only the necessary base ingredients plus skin-changing actives, such as a probiotic complex, glycolic acid and vitamins B and C. All free from nasties, including but not limited to: sulfates, parabens, aluminium, synthetic fragrance, synthetic colours and bleaches. AMPERNA® products are made in Australia, are cruelty-free, vegan and suitable for all skin types. They have been thoroughly tested on people with a range of skin concerns including eczema, perioral dermatitis, rosacea, acne prone skin and more.

03.

04.

05.

01. BALANCE WITH AMPERNA® ULTRA GENTLE SOOTHING CLEANSER 02. HYDRATE WITH AMPERNA® LIGHTWEIGHT SOOTHING+ EMULSION MOISTURISER

03. RESURFACE WITH AMPERNA® 10% PRO+ RESURFACING LOTION 04. REPAIR WITH AMPERNA® PRO+ VITAMIN C HYALURONIC SERUM 05. RESCUE WITH AMPERNA® PROBIOTIC+ DS SOOTHING SERUM

THE RISE OF PROBIOTICS IN SKIN CARE

The skin has billions of microflora (made up of both good and bad bacteria) living on its surface. This is what’s referred to as our ‘microbiome’. When these bacteria are out of balance, they can contribute to chronic skin problems. This is where probiotics can help. Whilst there’s no doubt you’ve heard about the reported health benefits of consuming probiotics in foods or supplements, you may not realise that probiotics can also be of benefit to skin problems when applied topically. Kiri discovered that in Europe, the use of these good bacteria in skin care is growing in popularity, but in the Australian market, it is relativity underdeveloped. The hero ingredient in the AMPERNA® range is the active probiotic complex, Lactococcus ferment lysate. This probiotic complex helps support the skin barrier; helping to protect you from aggressions such as environmental pollutants as well as helping to reduce inflammation. In short, the probiotic in AMPERNA® acts as a protective layer on the skin; helping to boost healthy looking skin. It also helps to calm & soothe skin. AMPERNA® is in fact the first Australian brand to bring you a full range of probiotic skincare products, and the first to use this particular probiotic strain in any Australian skincare product.

Millions of Australian’s just like Kiri are suffering with skin conditions and looking for active skin care solutions that are gentle enough to use on even the most sensitive skin. BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

PROGRESS

RETAILERS: Attract new customers with the award-winning AMPERNA® skin care range. TRADE ENQUIRIES: For more information on stocking the AMPERNA® brand go to www.amperna.com

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |53

COMMUNITY PHARMACY

01.

Get High on Health !

Going into Macca’s and leaving high on health is one of Jacinta McDonald’s favourite quips. And she delivers it with a smile that conveys an absolute passion and pride in what she does and why she loves delivering that sentence. We get the double meaning of course, so putting the Super Sizing jokes to one side, the Macca’s Jacinta is referring to is the award-winning pharmacy she owns. esprit’s Andrea meets up with this Pocket Rocket at the pharmacy, for a tour of beauty.

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On Mona Vale Road in St. Ives, on the North Shore of Sydney, Jacinta’s pharmacist father, David McDonald opened McDonald’s Pharmacy in 1983 and the doors have never closed. Literally. Secondgeneration pharmacist, Jacinta continues the family tradition of being open all hours. That’s 365 days a year…so it’s business as usual on Christmas Day, Easter Sunday and New Year’s Day. What drives this passion to perform over and above is her commitment to community. Jacinta absolutely loves what she does and so do her staff. They haven’t learned that off Jacinta…“I only employ people who are already passionate about what they do and love this industry and the people…our customers”. Throughout our conversation Jacinta references health and natural options as we tour the jam-packed pharmacy. Observing the behaviours of the conscious consumer we are continually innovating and adapting to a changing market, Jacinta tells esprit. “My mix of staff encompasses health, wellness and beauty. We have a qualified hairdresser who is our pharmacy assistant; a herbalist who is a pharmacist,

a beautician who is a retail buyer, plus pharmacy students and I am a registered nurse as well as a qualified pharmacist. Our customers have expertise across their health and wellbeing, and we need to be an authoritative source for these educated shoppers. “I love everything about this job. My ‘nurse’ gets fulfilled because I can help people and I get to run my own business. I love looking after my staff and supporting their learning”. At Macca’s it’s all about a positive energy. “People are more productive when they’re happy”, says Jacinta. Adapting, for Jacinta, means working with the way the industry is going and not being stuck. “Modern pharmacies are returning to the original model of the apothecary – I love that word – to offer a broad range of remedies, somewhat driven by the educated customer wanting natural and organic personal care products with trusted ingredients”. Here’s where we return to that quip: “At McDonald’s we’re the health destination to stay well. Come in to Macca’s Pharmacy and leave naturally high on health”.

People are open to natural health today, whereas ten years ago they’re weren’t, according to Jacinta’s experience. “Most people walk out our door with gut support of some kind”. It’s the cornerstone to health, wellbeing and that inner glow. Strong gut…better health! “Evidence based herbal remedies are a powerful adjunct to traditional therapies”. It’s about broadening our scope as pharmacists not clearing out the traditional pharmacy products. Diversity and choice are two words the owner keeps close to her business decisions on what to range in the shop. As a woman, Jacinta has her own personal favourites on the beauty shelves and admits to recommending these first… and why not! “I only recommend what I use and trust and love”. The No.1 brand rolling off her experienced tongue is Eco Tan, Sonya Driver’s ‘with purpose’ Gold Coast-made certified organic (Organic Food Chain) tanning brand. “What I love about Eco Tan is that all the young girls are covering their whole bodies with toxic tanners…we know with Eco Tan it is natural, caffeine based and gives a beautiful result. Eco Tan also does a natural deodorant – aluminium free…we don’t want aluminium formulations under our arms! There’s a comprehensive range of natural skincare and suncare, too”. For each category Macca’s offers an organic or herbal product as an alternative. In skincare Jacinta’s favourite is Meditree by Byron Organics, the Byron Bay based manufacturer. These products are all made with an Australian plant or tree ingredient and respect the knowledge of the indigenous people of Australia. Combining therapeutic levels of active vitamins, herbal extracts and essential oils grown locally and from around the world, working with Fairtrade, the range of skincare and body care suits those with sensitive skin as well as those wanting natural over chemical. “There is an acne range which I love to recommend to teenagers. I have personal experience of its effectiveness through a family member”. Thursday’s Plantation is another ‘Jacinta Fave’. She loves the founder’s story dating back to 1973 when Eric White started harvesting from Tea Tree plants on his land

02.

01. TEAM MCDONALD’S: LIZZI MICHEL, HEATHER ADAMS, JACINTA MCDONALD AND JOSEPH BACHA

02. MCDONALD’S PHARMACY

03.

in Northern NSW. He started the company in 1976 based on the restorative medicinal benefits of Tea Tree Oil. Now part of Integria Healthcare, with a manufacturing factory in Ballina, there is a range of plant oil-based health & beauty products for women, men and the whole family. Cetaphil is also a long-time favourite. Recommended by dermatologists this is a pharmacy stalwart: “simple formulations, cleansing, exfoliating and rehydrating, good quality products affordably priced”, she says. In health, Jacinta is singing the praises of hemp seeds as an overall health supplement, as an excellent source of iron and protein without getting “high”. And then there’s BioCeuticals and Oriental Botanicals, the practitioner ranges of supplements. “If you’re going to spend your hard earned money on a supplement make sure you chose an excellent quality brand. We (McDonald’s) make ourselves different by only recommending high quality brands. It’s not about selling to people; it’s about treating people as a whole to get the expected, positive result. Our customer conversations and herbalist consultations seek to find out the root cause to people’s problems and then educating them to resolve their ailment”. At McDonald’s Pharmacy it’s about staying well and building a relationship from a genuine interest. Our core business

TEAM - ELATED TO BE AWARDED THE 2018 “MOST OUTSTANDING PHARMACY” IN THE NORTH SHORE LOCAL BUSINESS AWARDS: DAVID MCDONALD, HEATHER ADAMS, ALYCE CAUCHI, JACINTA MCDONALD AND LIZZIE MICHEL

03. CHRISTMAS DAY 2018 AT MCDONALD’S PHARMACY – A FAMILY AFFAIR - CHARLOTTE DOYLE (JACINTA’S ELDEST DAUGHTER), JACINTA AND DAD, THE FORMER PHARMACY OWNER, DAVID MCDONALD

THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

A proud member of the Pharmacy Guild of Australia – McDonald’s Pharmacy is elated to be awarded the 2018 “Most Outstanding Pharmacy” by the North Shore Local Business Awards.

of prescriptions has endless antibiotics and pain medications dispensed as a result, and our staff are experts in prebiotics and probiotics. “Gut health is huge – it all relates back to the gut. So, we have a list of smoothies we give to customers – Danielle Shirley, our herbalist has created them – suggesting ingredients that we stock here”. Keeping her ear to the ground and being closely involved with her customers’ conversations creates a broad-based understanding of what’s trending and then it’s down to research to ensure the choiciest ranging – balancing that natural and traditional offer…with an err to the organic offer on Super Size!

CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) LEVEL 2, 15 NATIONAL CIRCUIT, BARTON ACT 2600 PO BOX 310, FYSHWICK, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 WWW.GUILD.ORG.AU

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |55

NATURALLY GOOD EXPO

01.

02.

NATURALLY GOOD EXPO 2019

– beauty is bountiful

The natural beauty and cosmetics sector was rated by the organisers, attendee feedback and the exhibiting brands as one of the star performers at this year’s Naturally Good Expo held recently at the International Convention Centre in Sydney. Thousands of people including retailers, suppliers and media attended the two-day trade show over June 2-3 which attracted more than 360 exhibitors from across the nation and around the world. In particular, the beauty and living zone saw the number of exhibitors grow this year by 10 per cent in comparison to the previous year. Key beauty exhibitors and interesting products included Weleda with their salt toothpaste, Amacyn Natural Perfume’s chemical-free scents, Clover Field’s shampoo bars, and moisturisers made of camel milk at The Camel Milk Co. From New Zealand bees (3 Bee) to vegan hair colourants (Tints of Nature); botanicals from the Mornington Peninsula (The White Pigeon Said soaps) to distribution specialists heaving with allethical brands, the diversity and enthusiasm for The Greater Good generated a feel-good factor that saw all involved heartened by the prospects for a future of environmentally friendly and sustainably farmed/sourced beauty. Today, beauty is broadening out to include wellness products/ingestibles which create that inner health/outer glowing appearance. Clement Hery from analytics group IRI Australia pointed out in his Expo talk on Health Trends Driving Growth in Australian FMCG that Australians make beautycare a priority with each of us now spending around 45 minutes a day on grooming – which is more time than spent 56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

03. 01. BEAUTY, BEAUTY, BEAUTY IT WAS... NATURALLY, EVERYWHERE!

02. CINDY LÜKEN – FOUNDER OF LÜK BEAUTIFOOD SPEAKS AT ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA’S RETAILER/CONNECTOR MORNING TEA

03. AISLING AWAY THE HOURS AT NATURALLY GOOD EXPO

per day on food preparation (40 minutes) or exercise (20 minutes). On the expo floor, retail beauty industry magazine - your very own esprit Magazine Australia - hosted a popular VIP beauty networking event with speaker, Lük Beautifood’s Cindy Lüken, whose innovative range includes lipsticks made from fruit. Cindy delivered powerful insights and highlighted recent research from IBE Group which found that 75 per cent of all women aged 18-34 say buying all-natural skincare products is important. Additionally, one in three women don’t

want beauty products with sulfates which can cause skin irritations. The Conscious Consumer was a topic of conversation amongst the retailer guests who are seeing footfall and spend voting for authentic natural beauty…“with results” they add. Visitors packed into the speaker sessions. Along with invaluable topics such as 7 Powerful Ways to Increase Retail Profits, How to Rank Number 1 on Google and Making Sense of New Retail, there were highly informative speaker sessions especially tailored to the beauty industry. The threat to independent retailers by Amazon, eco-friendly packaging and the need to educate kids about natural beauty versus surgical enhancement were hot topics in the session Indie Beauty Trends Impacting Australian Retail. Meanwhile Catherine Cervasio of Aluxe and founder of Aromababy Natural Skincare, covered intellectual property, flexibility in a changing retail landscape and brand reinvention. Julie Mathers of Flora and Fauna, who was part of the panel in the discussion - What Some of Australia’s Best Independent Retailers Do Differently, talked about the importance of a brand having a strong back story. “It’s so important for retailers to convey their passion for an industry such as beauty because it’s a very personal purchase,” she said. “People will gravitate to a product more if there is intent behind it that they can connect with.” Naturally Good Expo 2020 - Sydney Monday 1st to Tuesday 2nd June.

360 Exhibitors Food & Drink Beauty & Personal Care

A growing way of life Monday 1st - Tuesday 2nd June 2020 ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour New Show Days With more and more Australians paying attention to what they put in and on their bodies, a healthy way of living has grown to be the norm. With almost 6,000 trade visitors, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better way to grow your connections and business than by exhibiting at Naturally Good 2020.

TRADE ONLY EVENT

Book your 2020 stand now. naturallygood.com.au/exhibit

Home & Living Natural Health

BEAUTY BOOSTERS super dose of vitamin C Google ‘Vitamin C supplements and collagen’ and you’ll find almost 53,000 results. Both vitamin C and collagen are amongst the hottest topics in beauty and anti-ageing skincare right now. But like Bollinger and Passion Pop, there’s a massive difference between quality and how they work for YOU. That’s why Beauty Boosters Collagen-C is getting such rave reviews from customers – the 1000mg inside each Collagen-C tablet means skin gets a super-dose of vitamin C. And why’s that important? Because collagen production decreases with age. Beauty Boosters’ high content of vitamin C*, working with amino acids Proline and Glycine, means skin is noticeably and effectively restored, plumped, regenerated and looks more youthful.

• O ptimising your own collagen production means plump skin with a youthful natural glow. • Collagen reverses the signs of ageing by plumping the skin and restoring loss of elasticity.

WHY SHOULD WE TAKE VITAMIN C?

Beauty starts from within and no amount of topicals will solve skin concerns completely. Supplementation is the first step in a modern beauty routine to achieve optimum outward results.

• D aily use of Collagen-C is easily incorporated into a skincare routine and perfect for time conscious women and men. • Vitamin C also reflects free radicals so building up a high dose of vitamin C in the body is also perfect during winter to fight off catching colds.

Available in Myer stores nationwide and online alongside your luxury skincare brands. Made in Australia. Gluten free. Vegan.

* Most supplements contain just 250g of vitamin C

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BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business.

AUSSIE MADE – Iris Smit, The Quick Flick BRAND BUILDING – TVSN’s Judy Deuchar o n D o e s Yo u r B r a n d H av e A S o u l ? N I C H E F R AG R A N C E N E W S – b y A i n s l i e Wa l k e r ONLINE NEWS – from Adore Beauty AC C O R D – Va l u e … b e y o n d t h e b a l a n c e s h e e t

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THE QUICK FLICK Iris Smit, 24-yr old beauty lover, solved a personal dilemma and created a 10 million dollar business launching into brick-andmortar retail with Priceline. esprit asked our Priceline go-to contact, Gabby Tully, for some stats that show exactly how well this product is tracking – “13,633 units of The Quick Flick sold since launch (26 weeks)” – that’ll do nicely! Here, Iris shares jorney: her highs, lows, struggles and triumphs and how to hold your nerve in business building.

I created the first Quick Flick prototype in my final year studying Interior Architecture and soon realised I had more passion around running my own business than becoming an architect. I started small, from my dining table selling a few Quick Flicks a day. Via word of mouth, influencer endorsing and several PR pieces The Quick Flick steadily gained momentum and exposure. After an unsponsored review by beauty boss, Huda Kuttan (@hudabeauty, 37.5M followers) and appearing on Channel 10’s Shark Tank, business boomed. The rest, they would say, is history. WHAT WAS IT LIKE SEEING THE QUICK FLICK IN PRICELINE STORES FOR THE FIRST TIME?

It was a real pinch-me moment. My team and I agreed to all go in together to see it for the first time, so it was great to be able to celebrate the win together. I also used my photo on all our tray inserts in Priceline so it was pretty exciting to see my face in stores. As a brand we intentionally never used paid models in our content as we like to challenge beauty norms, suggesting that everyday people can be representations of beauty. WHAT HAVE BEEN SOME OF YOUR PROUDEST MOMENTS WITH THE QUICK FLICK?

1: Having The Quick Flick ranged in Priceline stores. We signed the official contract with Priceline on The Quick Flick’s 1st birthday, so it was a great birthday gift! 2: The first time The Quick Flick was featured in print. It was in a Fitness First magazine under their Beauty Bag section. 3: Launching our ‘A Wing for Every Eye Campaign’. We invited customers to be a part of our photoshoot instead of using casted models. Customers of all ages, ethnicities and eye types got involved. It was a really empowering day that was filled with self-acceptance for a lot of the women that got involved. DESCRIBE SOME OF YOUR STRUGGLES AND BIGGEST LEARNING CURVES.

After Shark Tank I went on to turn down Andrew Banks’ deal. I felt quite pressured to go ahead with the deal, especially after all the media attention and hype. I learnt a

lot about my capabilities and the direction I wanted to take my business once I’d decided to go ahead alone. I think I aged about five years dealing with all the stress of it at the time. It was definitely a hard decision turning down a $300,000 offer. WHAT ARE YOUR TOP 3 TIPS IN BUSINESS?

1. Stay true to yourself, your vision and goal. Early on I found myself becoming too heavily influenced by others and what my competitors where doing. What will make your brand flourish and stand out from the crowd happen when you do things differently or challenge what others are saying within your market space. 2. Persistency is key. You will only ever get out what you put in. I’ve sacrificed a lot for the success of my business social life, relationships and above all sleep. You have to be dedicated to growing your business and be willing to put it before everything else. It will reward you in the long run. 3. Your only limit is your mind. We often believe things aren’t possible or tasks are too hard because our mind constructs them that way. The first thing I do every morning is write a journal entry about what I want to achieve in my day and every 90 days I write out my business goals for that period. I find subconsciously I act on these tasks and get them done as I believe they are possible and have written them out as if they have already occurred. Try it yourself, I swear my journal has magical powers!

Aussie made

HOW DID YOU GO FROM UNI STUDENT TO RUNNING YOUR OWN BUSINESS?

BUSINESS

Iris Smit

IN ACTION: THOSE IRIS EYES ARE SMILING… WITH THE QUICK FLICK!

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |63

JUDY DEUCHAR’S

CONSCIOUS OF

CONSCIENCE DOES YOUR BRAND HAVE A SOUL? Spending time recently with fledgling and experienced brands in New York and Los Angeles, has again reminded me of how important it is for a brand to have a soul to at first succeed, but also to survive long term. It feels like so many people are forgetting their conscience when trying to grow, elevate or rebrand. Building your brand should and inevitably does, include a social brand view or outlook, whether at first planned or not. For example - you may be building a skincare line, but the brand owner or creator may be ethically minded, animal cruelty free minded or vegan - and as such - this influences the outcomes of actual product as well as the promotional path the brand takes. In the last few years the social conscious issues have sometimes been the prime reason for the brand’s existence. Too often we see brands with great social conscience and responsibility but with not much product substance. Social Conscience or responsibility is separate to brand values. Values are the core essence of what your brand stands for and they create deep meaningful relationships with your customer. It’s these values which stand the test of time over the years. A social conscience or social responsibility for your brand is where you align with ‘the good people’, it is where you show your brand helps to make a difference in the world and commits to a social value. From supply chain all the way through to Point of Sale. This trend is particularly prevalent amongst the millennial generation - looking to relate to ‘good’ people. 64| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

A couple of points to consider on building the social substance side and responsibility of your brand ... over and above the ‘values’ you align with your brand. • An existing brand - are you trying to align yourself with a social conscience identity? Ask yourself what do you, the creator, brand owner, believe in truly believe in. Is it rainforests, is it recycling, is it wind energy? Is it supporting African women? Now find a way to weave that into your brand. If your brand is based on something you love and have created with a story that’s relevant to you – you will find this an easy fit! Much trickier if you have a brand which was created just because you thought that product was on trend. What’s truly important, not what you think should be important. Just because everyone is paraben free doesn’t mean you have to be. But have a good reason why you are not. I remember Dr Murad telling me once that there are more parabens in a bowl of strawberries than there are in all the moisturiser I would use in a year. • A new brand - your brand is based around a social conscious idea. For example, you only use clean water or only Fairtrade ingredients. Did you set out primarily to develop a range of Fairtrade ingredient based products? If so, you have chosen your path, now your challenge is to make sure your products line up with that, that specific social conscious customer base and their actual real needs in skincare. • Is it relevant to your brand? Even a thread of relevance? You cannot easily be a sassy haircare brand for example, with great styling products, a city chic look and feel with a ‘Protect the Dolphins’ social conscious campaign. It just doesn’t gel - well, at least - it’s not an easy one to work with. There is a wonderful skincare brand I have worked with for many years, originating out of the US. The creator is passionate about rescue animals and as such their products are PETA and Leaping Bunny approved. However, she didn’t stop there as it’s truly a passion of hers. She has started a rescue pet adoption sponsorship

within her company. And with that being successful, she offers it as a program which she fully funds - for all her retailers. Her company will find pet rescue centers in your territory and then they fund advertising for a weekend where everyone who purchased an item will be able to go to the pre-arranged pet shelters and her company will pay for all the adoption fees, as well as vet and food bills for the first month. To complete the cycle, her company has paid for the adoption of over 11,000 rescue animals which brings us back to completing the cycle of authenticity of brand. Sales as a result have spiked as like-minded people buy her brand. Her skincare is for the over-45 market and for the women wiser in years who more than likely have, or have had, a special pet. It resonates. It’s authentic and truly delivers on the social conscience part. An example of building relevant social consciousness into a brand is the use of hemp in skincare products. I was bombarded in the US with billboard advertising on all fronts - from hand creams, shower gels and a large variety of oils. We see it here in Australia and NZ as well - with over 320 brand names registered with the name Hemp, in some form, in Australia alone, for skincare, as of end January. So, a new popular ingredient of the moment, but how do you marry a social conscience into a brand most masstige customers still feel a little flurry about. How do you make it socially acceptable and aligned with good citizenship? Having seen many of these new Hemp seed CBD Oil brands, it’s been interesting to see who stands out. I met with a brand recently which has a strong background in CBD knowledge as well as strong skincare knowledge. They have combined their brand with a social responsibility policy surrounding CBD and the setting up of treatment centers which focus on helping people and their illness with cannabinoids. Skincare is then a natural follow on. Hence truly going back to the origin of the Hemp ingredient and story. Looking across all industries that I’m involved in, I can see that often the consumer is not always looking (or cares) for a specific cause to support per se, but is merely wanting to feel good about their purchase…feel that they have done something positive for humankind. The more the cause reflects the story and essence of your brand, the better the connection and sale.

Practical steps when building and weaving in your brand’s social conscience strategy:

Knowing what your brand story is – now pin down what you care about - environment, animals, women in Africa, underprivileged kids, fair working conditions, charity work etc. Does this tie in with your brand story? How important is this to you truly? Are you willing to commit time, money, funding to this? Perhaps link to a charity that exists that complements your view and strategy? Does it tie in with your product and business strategy?

How do you authentically link this to your brand - ensuring it doesn’t take over your brand where the social conscience part becomes more in focus and marketable than your brand. Will consumer press remember the women crushing the rose petals in India in a beautiful village setting, more than they remember the rose oil you are trying to sell which includes those rose petals? Show your customer what you are doing - live it. For example if your social responsibility is reducing carbon waste - deliver products to consumer press in electric cars or on bicycles in the city, think carefully and advertise your packing uses recycled waste paper. Such as Toms, the shoe brand who give away a pair of shoes for every pair sold. They advertise this on billboards. More than 86 million pairs of shoes have been given to children from underprivileged homes.

BUSINESS

Benefits of a social conscience policy for your brand • Helps align you to a customer with a similar mindset • Helps position slightly higher above your competitors added value • Helps with recruitment of like-minded people - shared values and a community spirit • Helps with creating and nurturing loyalty when your campaigns are resonating with an emotional pull in your target audience • Helps to attract influencers and marketing campaign supporters

And finally… Business owners and brand leaders are increasingly driving their business with a social conscience. Over 14,000 companies globally have signed the UN Global Compact, which sets standards for companies to align with universal principals on human rights, anti-corruption as well as fair labour practices. However, start small, start with an authentic cause which resonates with you personally, your customer and brand, start with a clear view on how you intend for it to ‘serve’ your brand. Every little helps. In my next column we look into building your brand’s financial plans to ensure you build room to grow your new product development, your marketing exposure as well as ensuring you build-in the correct margins for potential future national or international expansion.

JUDY DEUCHAR

Head of Marketing/Programming at TVSN

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What’s hot in

the Lab

Amanda Foxon-Hill, Cosmetic Chemist at the innovative New Directions business, continues her series from the labs…where it ALL goes on! Each issue Amanda picks a topic that’s trending with the guys in the white coats and gets us up to speed on it. Over to Amanda…

The walnut exfoliant scandal It was hard not to be affected by the keyboard warrior backlash Kylie Jenner got recently after announcing that her new skincare line, Kylie Skin, would include a walnut facial scrub. Being a 90s teen turned cosmetic chemist I didn’t think too much of this at first. I came of age in an era when scrubbing your face with walnuts was novel and fun. St. Ives’ Aapri face scrub was fast becoming a staple in every bathroom cupboard and the saying ‘the harder the better’ was our mantra! But it looks like all this may have changed. It didn’t take too much reading to realise that these days, admitting to enjoying a harsh scrub is something to keep hush about as apparently there is nothing worse! 66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

As a cosmetic chemist I’m often asked to incorporate natural scrub particles into cosmetic products. As such, I wanted to dissect this backlash a little and find out if there is any truth to the idea that walnuts will ruin your skin. First up, I turned my attention to two words that kept coming up again and again and they were ‘micro tears’. Micro tears are tiny abrasions that can occur on your skin and cause it stress by disrupting barrier functioning and causing irritation. While this sounds pretty horrendous it’s important to note that our skin has many features that help it to ride out any rough life events. It would be pretty painful if our skin ripped at any sign of friction! I struggled to find much scientific data on exfoliant-generated micro tears which doesn’t mean they don’t happen, but it did make me wonder if this has all been a little over-egged. The elastin in our skin is, as its name would suggest, elastic and as such, can absorb and flex with most stress that’s applied to it. This elasticity is a key feature at the core of our skin, rather like the springs in a mattress. So, while we don’t scrub our elastin (as that’s buried in our deeper dermal layers) we do make use of its ‘gowith-the-flow’ qualities. But that’s not the only way our skin resists tearing. Our epidermis consists of many layers of which the outer ones are dead. These dead cells are called corneocytes and they act like our armour or first line of defence. It’s these dead cells that I, as a cosmetic chemist, target with my scrub formulations. I want to dislodge them just enough that the very old, oxidized and dull layers are removed but the lower, still glued-on layers remain. In my experience it’s been more likely that acid based exfoliant formulations go too deep, too fast and cause burning than physical exfoliants. Most people stop way short of exfoliating their skin clean off, a sure sign of which would be weeping, redness and pain such as what you’d feel with a carpet burn. So, is it likely that exfoliants such as walnuts do any damage? Walnut particles are abrasive because they are hard and unyielding (not squishy like a sponge). They have some jagged edges and vary in size from tiny crumb like particles to larger chunks. It’s likely that there is some variation between suppliers in particle size distribution with more expensive grades having a smaller range of particle shapes and sizes due to a more controlled milling. Particle size is important for the formulator to appreciate. The finer the particles, the larger the surface area of scrub in the finished formulation. Large surface areas of natural materials can mean a larger micro risk and that could lead to problems. All physical exfoliant particles contribute, what we call, a bio burden in a formula. That is, they bring with them micro spores, usually fungi from the air. If walnut scrubs are bad for the skin, it could be less about micro tears and more to do with microbes. The risk of micro contaminated cosmetics is well documented and includes infection, inflammation and generalised irritation. Again, as a cosmetic chemist it’s my job to select an appropriate micro strategy to prevent any issues from my ingredients.

BUSINESS Sure, one strategy may be to avoid walnut exfoliant particles but that would be a little lazy and, if the customer wants a walnut scrub, that’s what they should get you quickly learn in this job that avoiding problems by avoiding certain ingredients is a game that you can only play for so long. It’s not just the particle size, hardness or abundance that matters with a scrub. The product’s pH, the creaminess of the base, abundance of scrub particles, use instructions, product price and even pack design all play a part. I talked the issue of walnut scrubs over with my friend, professional facialist Amy Erbacher, because, while I do put a lot of time into understanding the skin and formulations to support it, it’s the facialists that see the results of what my products do to the skin and how the public interact with them. Amy regularly sees the results of over zealous exfoliation in her clinic, the most common being over sensitive skin, redness and irritation. She feels strongly that most skin types don’t need the harsh exfoliation that you achieve with a walnut particle and that if people do want to use them they should go easy, use them less often (no more than once a week) and not at all if they have active pimples. I can understand those concerns but also know that brand owners are keen to see fast results and produce products with textures that feel like they will work. For people of my age that still means an appetite for rough scrubs. So, what do we do? For me, sitting here in the lab I know I can do my bit to help the walnut scrub addicts get their fix with minimal risk. I can select good quality scrub particles that have been milled specifically for cosmetic use. I can create a cushioned formula for them to sit on, one with some emolliency and a rheology (or flow) that yields with minimal force. This would encourage clients to press gently rather than grind down their skin. I can pair the exfoliant with mild surfactants that are effective in removing makeup but that don’t take away the skin’s natural oils or disrupt its micro balance. This will give the client the feeling of a deep clean without resorting to harsh measures or product over-use. Lastly, I can support all of that with a good micro strategy that helps keep my formula clean in spite of the walnut shell! The last bit of the puzzle is for the brand owner. Brand owners should rest assured that not all walnut scrubs are created equally but that yours can be great if you present it carefully. You can direct your customers on how to use this type of scrub safely and effectively and responsibly while leaving your formulator to handle all the other stuff. We shouldn’t forget that the above conversation is mainly about the face. The skin on our bodies is generally much tougher so if you still want it rough, just direct the scrub action south a bit.

Amanda Foxon-Hill

Cosmetic Chemist Amanda’s diverse laboratory and factory experience spans a broad cross-section of the cosmetics industry from smallscale hobby manufacture all the way to 20 ton batch production. This hands-on expertise ensures that the formulation work produced for New Directions and by Realize Beauty on behalf of clients can be implemented on both a practical and commercially viable level. Amanda is also a fun and vibrant presenter and has no difficulty in communicating sometimes complex scientific issues to the lay person or brand owner, thus allowing them to gain a deeper understanding of their brand or consumer product. Amanda is a chemist at New Directions Australia. www.newdirections.com.au New Directions Australia 47 Carrington Road Marrickville, Sydney, NSW 2204 Australia P: 612 8577 5952 F: 612 8577 5977 Toll Free: 1800 637 697

Whatever Kylie Jenner gets up to is her business but as for yours, I bid you happy and safe scrubbing with or without walnut, us chemists know how to handle it. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |67

BUSINESS

A I N S L I E WA L K E R TA L K S

NICHE FRAGRANCE NEWS

NICHE PERFUMERY

– where does it come from? Agence de Parfums, T2M, Mecca Cosmetica and Peony Melbourne are the main companies bringing niche perfume brands into Australia, but where and how do they find them? The key international buying and discovery events in niche fragrance are held annually in Italy, with Pitti Fragrance in September, in Florence and Esxence in April, in Milan. For me, this is like perfumery heaven opening up its new treasures and I value every moment I spend at these shows. Here’s what I found in Milan. Esxence 2019 saw more than 300 brands, creatively exhibiting their collections and latest novelties. Much innovation went into multisensory displays presenting fragrances via poetry, music, art, photography, sculpture, illustration, science/chemistry, unique ways of demonstrating scent, eyecatching bottles and packaging designs and perfumers and brand founders onsite to talk about their creations and processes. Along with exhibitors and buyers there was a sea of international bloggers, vloggers, instagram-ers, influencers and journalists all wanting to be the first to sing the praises of the latest in niche perfumery.

01.

01. JACQUES FATH’S LE IRIS DE FATH

02. HIRUM GREEN’S ART AND OLFACTION AWARD WINNER - HYDE PERFUME

03. FORTE AND MANLÉ – PROUDLY AUSTRALIAN

PICK OF THE ESXENCE

Some were new brands. My pick: Maison Rebatchi just six months old, some were reinvigorated brands like Jacques Fath with its recreation of histroic Le Iris de Fath now one of the most expensive fragrances on the market. The show also included some of the first brands in niche. Some were made purely of molecules eg.Æther and some purely naturals, Hirum Green. Proudly on exhibit were Australian brands Map of the Heart, Forte and Manlé and Goldfield and Banks. In addition there was quite a crew of fragrance folk from Australia and NZ in Milan, with Jill Timms from Peony 68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

02.

03.

Melbourne and Francis Hooper from World Brand NZ on a buying trip, Michael Edwards and the Fragrances of the World team evaluating and meeting with brands and of course myself having a sniff about! These exhibitions are like the ‘Met Ball’ for perfumery, where many perfumers are free to make what they like with no restrictions, including price of materials. Creativity is at its highest and it’s where up-and-coming perfumers can shine or be plucked for big projects with multinational corporations. Trends are created while the big brands watch on, taking notes. Trends this year included a noticeable increase in the use of Master Perfumers, who of recent years only created for major designer brands such as Domonique Ropion and Jean Claude Ellena exHermes. Mint and Iris top the list as the popular notes in many collections. A rise in natural perfumery with Netherlands perfumer Hirum Green winning the Art and Olfaction Award with its Hyde perfume. Niche fashion designers are expanding into niche perfumery; best examples include Naomi Goodsir, MarcAntoine Barrois and Verdûu – a collection created by perfumer Mark Buxton with each of the five fragrance collaborations with up and coming fashion designers.

BUSINESS

Is your e-commerce user friendly?

BY S A R A H M U L L E N , G E N E R A L M A N AG E R – A D O R E B E A U T Y

Is your e-commerce site as on-trend as your products/brand? It’s easy to be ‘too close’ to your own business and blind to the customer’s experience. Here’s some pointers to consider. Sustainability Sustainability isn’t sexy, but it sure is trendy. When a customer clicks ‘Checkout Now’, they’re committing to more than a purchase. They’re saying: ‘I Do’. They’re saying they believe in how your business contributes and cares. It’s crucial that retailers understand how important sustainability is for their customer and make it a priority. At Adore Beauty we use recycled boxes, 100% recycled void fill, and a super smart Warehouse system that tells us the perfect sized box to use to reduce wastage. Contrary to common thought, sustainability can actually be cost effective and positive for the P+L. Be bold and commit to making a positive difference.

Education Customers aren’t dumb, so let’s not treat them like they are. It’s trendy to be educated and informed about beauty; talk about the Retinol you tried last week or give your girlfriend a recommendation for the benefits of mixing vitamin C and vitamin B.

Look at you; when did you become a Skin Therapist? You go girl! It’s our job to give our customers independent, real, interesting and educational content. Customers are highly engaged, and thirsty for it. Our position is: Adore Beauty is your online beauty library, smelling like Glasshouse’s Tahaa and Juliette Has A Gun. We share our authority on mainstream and discovery, international to indie brands…and that’s why customers come to our trusted destination.

Mobile first Ever landed on a site that’s not optimised for mobile? As you pinch to zoom and tap your screen frantically trying to navigate, you eventually close the browser and curse! It’s 2019! Over half of web traffic is from the mobile device, so if your site isn’t mobile friendly, you’re missing out. From improving organic traffic to accessibility and CX, take some time to know your customer and invest in a mobile-first site. This is one trend with a long, strong, life span.

ABOUT SARAH

With a strong fashion and cosmetics background, and passionate about product and brand, Sarah Mullen joined Adore Beauty in 2013. Sarah is now the General Manager overseeing Brands, Customer Service and Operational departments.

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BUSINESS

Value beyond balance sheets

– how our industry delivers Tracey Raso, Accord Chair and Regional Managing Director Pacific of Revlon Australia reflects on the value our industry delivers and Accord’s priorities to optimise opportunities for sustainable and productive industry growth. “I was honoured to be appointed Chair of Accord Australasia mid-2018. Having been part of the beauty industry for decades, and with Revlon a longterm member of Accord – for 14 years in fact! – it is a privilege to be serving in this role and to continue to help shape the direction of our industry body, as it in turn serves its members and strives to enhance the business environment in which we all operate. I would like to highlight some of Accord’s key focus areas in 2019 and beyond, and how these are geared to further strengthen the beauty industry for the opportunities and challenges ahead. ACCORD’S KEY FOCUS AREAS IN 2019

Member Value remains a paramount goal. As part of this, Accord will increase training options,

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information alerts and networking sessions for members. Our aim is to be an indispensable resource for all our member businesses. Evidence-based and ethical advocacy also remains a core value of Accord. The Accord Board has long been concerned about the lack of policy recognition for the extensive reach of our sector’s products – especially as our industry is both an essential market for key upstream industries as well as providing vital inputs for many important downstream industries such as retailing, wellness and beauty. So, to assist governments in gaining a deeper understanding of our industry’s economic contribution and jobs creation role, Accord is commissioning the first major economic value-add study for our industry.

BUSINESS This will be a key piece as Accord spearheads action on our goal for a national policy environment that leads to sustainable and productive industry growth across our sector. It will provide tangible data on how our industry feeds economic activity and supports jobs in other industries. BEYOND THE BALANCE SHEETS

However, it is also important to remember that much of the value the beauty industry goes well beyond retail sales figures and company balance sheets: community wellbeing and public health protection are a fundamental outcome of our industry’s products. There are so many examples that could be highlighted, but let me focus on sunscreens and the tangible value they deliver. Melanoma is the fourth most common cancer in Australia with around 14,000 cases every year. According to the Cancer Council of Australia, sunburn causes 95 percent of melanomas, meaning that this devastating disease is preventable. Sunscreens play a role here, offering personal protection against dangerous sun damage as well as helping decrease the enormous economic burden of skin cancer. Therefore, Accord will also continue to focus on communicating our societal value amidst media ‘noise’ and populist concerns concerning our industry and its products. We have a long history of taking the lead on important sustainability and consumer education initiatives. For example, two years ago we launched the sun safety Sunsible website (sunsible.org.au) encouraging consumers to use sunscreen correctly. This year, we followed up with the new WipeSmart site (wipesmart.org.au), encouraging consumers to stop disposing of baby wipes, facial wipes and homecare wipes down the toilet. And our Furphies website (furphies.org.au) has received international praise as one of the top sources of correct information about cosmetic ingredients. And of course, the Look Good Feel Better cancer patient support program stands out for its 29 years

of assistance to more 135,000 Australians. Core to Look Good Feel Better is the well-documented boost it gives to the mental wellbeing of those undergoing chemotherapy or radiotherapy. The program relies on the ongoing and unstinting generosity of our industry and its partners: the financial contribution, product donations and time donated represent a significant injection to community wellbeing and have become an invaluable economic asset for the nation. One way to quantify the value of Accord’s various initiatives is to consider how much they would cost for government to implement them instead. Noting that such savings of government funds collected by taxation due to our industry programs means either funding of other essential community services or no increased taxation burden. I look forward to continuing work with Accord’s committed Board and Secretariat as, together, we strive tirelessly to enhance and improve our industry’s business environment and for recognition of our industry’s positive role in society”.

ABOUT TRACEY RASO

Tracey Raso is Chair of Accord Australasia and Regional Managing Director, Pacific of Revlon Australia

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. For any information or membership details contact: www.accord.asn.au

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MY JOURNEY

Joyce Shu

Beating a Path to Dior by Elisabeth King

When the travel bug bites early it can have a huge effect on career choices. Joyce Shu, Marketing Manager, Makeup & Trade Events, for Parfums Christian Dior, credits growing up in Hong Kong, overseas holidays and her parents’ wanderlust as catalysts when the time came to choosing a course at the University of New South Wales. “I enrolled in a Bachelor of Commerce degree with majors in marketing and hospitality”, she notes. “It seemed to combine the best of both worlds. General enough to offer job opportunities in different business disciplines, with specialised components in hotel management”.

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Shu was also attracted to the hospitality industry because it offered a fast track to learn about customer service, the importance of building relationships, problem solving and dealing with people from different backgrounds and nationalities. “During uni holidays I got a job at a major Japanese ski resort. I had the time of my life for three months, as I practiced my language skills and fulfilled the work experience component of my degree course”. Over the next three years Shu worked in US and Canadian resorts in Colorado and Whistler. “The hours were long and the jobs were challenging. But both experiences helped me to work in a team environment and honed my customer service skills. When I returned to Australia, I took on the role of Sales and Marketing Coordinator at Four Points by Sheraton, supporting the Sales and Marketing Manager and working across different departments from sales and conference to finance and food and beverage. I also worked with creative agencies on marketing collateral development and distribution”. But Shu confesses that she had long felt close to beauty. “I was always drawn to cosmetic counters because they open the door to such an aspirational and beautiful world. I felt that the industry was changing, and it was the right place for me. A position as Product Manager at Givenchy came up in 2003 and I was interviewed by Judy Ng, now General

Manager at LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics Group. She took a leap of faith and gave me a trial three-month contract. The job entailed doing everything from PR through formulating marketing plans”. Shu worked closely with Judy Ng for the next 10 years after shifting to the position of Marketing Manager for LVMH Fragrance Brands in 2007. “I also had the opportunity to work with Guerlain in Hong Kong just prior to taking on the new role. There were a lot of changes not only with the brands, including Givenchy, Guerlain, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors, but also team re-structuring and increasing competition in the marketplace. We also launched Fendi fragrance in Australia. Judy was an amazing mentor and I learned so much under her guidance. The most important challenge was to be creative and innovative, embrace change and remain strategic and customer-centric while keeping an eye on tight budget management”. Shu became the Marketing Manager for Benefit Cosmetics in 2012. “As an American brand - disruptive, colourful and young at heart - Benefit has a totally different culture to LVMH’s French and Italian brands. It’s very digital and PR

MY JOURNEY

focused and everyone who works for the brand embraces its DNA. Benefit has experienced strong growth in recent years, and I contributed to the expansion of the brand to New Zealand and travel retail markets. The success of best-selling SKUs such as Gimme Brow, They’re Real mascara (now BADgal Bang!) and the primer POREfessional, as well as the unique and popular brow wax services, helped to catapult Myer Sydney City to the world’s number one department store counter for Benefit globally”. But Benefit is about more than just selling products, says Shu. “One of my proudest and most honoured responsibilities was the launch of the Bold is Beautiful philanthropy program in 2015. Australia was one of the three inaugural trial countries for the project and we supported three local charities Look Good Feel Better, SISTER2sister and Fitted for Work. In the six years I was with the brand, Benefit went from strength to strength, thanks to perseverance, hard work, strategic focus, increased resources and the leadership of General Manager, Beth Glancey”. Benefit had also achieved great success in Sephora and sister brand Christian Dior was beginning to expand within the retailer with a new line aimed at Millennials, says Shu. “I joined the Dior team with my expertise in May 2018, as the Marketing Manager, Makeup & Trade Events. My first mission was the launch of Dior Backstage, a professional performance makeup line inspired by the backstage at Dior fashion shows for makeup junkies and makeup artists. Exclusive to Sephora and

Dior Boutiques, the marketing strategy had to be different to other Dior launches because of the new target market and distribution channel”. The key to success was to be customer centric and to take every opportunity possible, says Shu. “To gain traction for Dior Backstage in the market we engaged in strong PR with influencers and YouTubers, activities designed to maximise Sephora’s high store traffic, strong beauty advisor team, utilised digital and social media platforms to boost awareness and buzz to generate sales. The success of the Dior Backstage line has had a halo effect on the rest of the Dior range, contributing to the strong growth of the brand in Sephora, which has now launched the full range online”. Shu considers herself very fortunate to have worked for six different globallyrenowned brands and inspiring leaders at the LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics Group. “Together with the amazing teams, we regularly achieved sales and profitability targets, gained market share, ventured into new countries and took advantage of new business opportunities. One of the most important things I have learnt is that it is important to constantly seek knowledge, embrace curiosity and view a challenge as an adventure. As Eleanor Roosevelt once said - You must do the things you think you cannot do”.

Together with the amazing teams, we regularly achieved sales and profitability targets, gained market share, ventured into new countries and took advantage of new business opportunities. One of the most important things I have learnt is that it is important to constantly seek knowledge, embrace curiosity and view a challenge as an adventure.

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OUT & ABOUT

01.

CHANEL’S NEW MAKEUP INSPO

FIT LIFESTYLE OGX HAIRCARE

Lucia Pica, Chanel’s Global Creative Director for Makeup, is working to a new inspiration. Couturier, Virginie Viard, who has worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld for 30 years, but since his recent passing, has taken the reins as Artistic Director. For the recent Cruise show, we hear from Lucia, backstage.

Theming their latest shampoo and conditioner launch with a fitness slant, OGX Haircare teamed up with the Bondi BUF Girls to launch the new OGX Charcoal Detox & Active Beauty Green Tea Fitness variants with a 30-minute custom fitness workout. Key media and influencers attended the strengthening and detoxifying group class at La Porte Space in Rosebery, where they also heard Libby Babet from the BUF Girls and the marketing team at OGX (Johnson & Johnson) unveil the new OGX ‘flavours’ and tips to maintaining an active lifestyle. Guests were educated on how to harness the power of antioxidants and detoxification through exercise, food and of course, hair care.

WHAT WERE YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION FOR THIS MAKEUP? WHAT BRIEF DID VIRGINIE VIARD GIVE YOU?

I noticed that in Virginie’s collection there was an element of black going through; whether it be a ribbon, or pants, even the coloured looks, that is why I added a black mouth. You will see that about twenty girls have this black shiny cherry lip. I kept this lacquered black lip on only a few models as an element of surprise and also because it went with some of the girls’ characters and outfits. I think this is what makeup is about, it’s an accessory to help express and enhance yourself. CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE FASHION SHOW MAKEUP?

The skin is healthy and polished with a luminous ‘90s vibe to the makeup. The shiny black mouth and slight contour has a little take on a ‘20s heroine woman.

02.

LÈVRES Rouge Noir - Vamp and a very burgundy mat lipstick underneath ROUGE ALLURE VELVET EXTRÊME Rouge Obscur*. I finished the look with the black cherry gloss on top ROUGE COCO GLOSS Laque Noir* for a lacquered effect. The trick is the layers underneath which help to keep the gloss on.

I would say the black gloss ROUGE COCO GLOSS Laque Noir* - -it’s fun and cool. *Fall-Winter 2019 Collection

Charcoal is appearing as the must-have ingredient to detox and remove impurities across a range of beauty, now in haircare. This shampoo and conditioner uses a blend of Coconut, Charcoal and Kaolin Clay to break down build-up, rescue congested strands dulled with residue and provide a fresh start with each wash for clean, shiny hair.

01. LUCIA PICA, CHANEL’S GLOBAL CREATIVE

ACTIVE BEAUTY GREEN TEA FITNESS

IS THERE A PRODUCT THAT YOU PARTICULARLY ENJOYED USING FOR THIS MAKEUP LOOK?

DIRECTOR FOR MAKEUP

02. THE LOOK - THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE ...WITH A LACQUERED, CHERRY BLACK LIP

DO YOU HAVE ANY PROFESSIONAL TIPS AND TRICKS TO SHARE WITH US?

I contour the eyes with STYLO OMBRE ET CONTOUR Electric Brown or STYLO OMBRE ET CONTOUR Contour Clair depending on skin tone. It is very easy to use, you apply into the inner socket and blend the edges, giving a natural shadow. This is a fast, glamorous look. On the lips for the colour to stay on a little longer I started with the lip liner LE CRAYON

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PURIFYING + CHARCOAL DETOX

Infused with a fitness-inspired blend of antioxidant-rich green tea and unique lotus aroma, hair looks fresh, with a healthy glow. The Green Tea ingredient is included for its caffeine and amino acids, known to protect against free radicals. On counter now in Priceline pharmacies, Chemist Warehouse, Woolworths and Coles, RRP $17.99. 01. BEAUTY MEDIA LEAP THROUGH THEIR PACES AT OGX

02. OGX CHARCOAL DETOX 03. LAUREN SKORA

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03.

(@LOLLSGRACE), BELINDA LIANA (@_BELINDALIANA) AND PAIGE CRASWELL (@PAIGECRASWELL)

01.

OUT & ABOUT

01.

MAUI MOISTURE INNOVATES WITH VOLCANIC ASH

DR. MURAD – GENTLY DOES IT FOR THE MICROBIOME

Hitting the wash basins for a wash and blowdry, beauty media experienced the latest line-up from Maui Moisture: Volcanic Ash. The Edwards & Co Academy stylists provided the hairdressing, using the new shampoo and conditioner, while Amy Luitingh, Brand Manager, Johnson & Johnson Health held one-onone sessions talking beauty media through the brand proposition and the innovation of the Volcanic Ash. Maui Moisture is one of the first brands to bring the Volcanic Ash ingredient to mass market – it has largely only been used in professional spa treatments to date. The brand proposition is conveyed with the natural and sustainable messaging and ‘no nasties’ list on the bottles. The formula of Maui Moisture is a blend of pure Aloe Vera juice and coconut water, rather than deionized water (chemical water) common to shampoos and conditioners.

The misguided obsession with anti-bacterial products and harsh cleansers is destroying bad bacteria but also stripping away good bacteria. Skin is suffering from all sorts of reactions and sensitivities. Calming it all down Dr. Murad has worked on restoring the microbiome with prebiotic skincare. Learning about the science and getting to feel the products first hand, beauty media were treated to facials at The Paddington Beauty Studio, pre-launch (June). The calming combo is: Prebiotic 4-in-MultiCleanser and Prebiotic 3-in-1 MultiMist to nourish skin with prebiotics to rebalance the skin’s microbiome (the collection of good bacteria living on our skin). The result? Overall well-hydrated and healthy-looking skin. The professional facialists’ hands: Anna Field - Owner, The Paddington Beauty Studio and Katy Bacon - Dr. Murad, AsiaPac Education Manager.

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01. KATY BACON - DR. MURAD, ASIAPAC EDUCATION MANAGER WITH ANNA FIELD OWNER, THE PADDINGTON BEAUTY STUDIO

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The media launch scene was set for being transported to the Hawaiian island of Maui with a fruity spread, tropical flowers and Hawaiian music. A traditional Hawaiian tiki stand was also set up with Glamazon nail manicurists giving guests tropical inspired nail art. The team from Maui Moisture’s Johnson & Johnson was

also present to do one on one appointments with all media and guests. Available now in Priceline pharmacies, Woolworths, Coles and Chemist Warehouse. 01. PACIFIC MAGAZINES’ VANESSA ROSSINI AND EMILIA BRYSON WITH AMY LUITINGH, BRAND MANAGER, JOHNSON & JOHNSON HEALTH

02. JORDYN CHRISTENSEN – BEAUTY HEAVEN 03. CAROLINE GROTH, HEALTH AND WELLBEING INFLUENCER

04. MAUI MOISTURE LAUNCHES NEW VOLCANIC ASH HAIR RANGE

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OUT & ABOUT

01.

MECCA’S MINDFUL BEAUTY SHOWCASE Right up there as a leader in innovative beauty retailing with enthusiastic footfall indicating the consumer likes what they are doing, Mecca is perfectly placed to provide a platform for promoting Conscious Consumer brands. Dubbing it Mindful Beauty – The Showcase, Australia’s entrepreneurial retailer hosted eight brand founders/heads and their latest products for media to meet. The press had one-on-one, 10-minute ‘speed-dating-style’ interviews and boy can we talk fast when we need to. Mecca’s mindset reflects society’s growing focus on healthy living; hardly rocket science, but we’re pretty much all now of the understanding that what you put on your body is just as important as what you put in it. With the Mindful Beauty category in store it makes it easier for browsing consumers to locate ingredient-conscious brands, with naturally derived products and vegan beauty choices. CHANTECAILLE

1: Scott Medwatz – Global Brand Ambassador With new Blue Light Protection Hyaluronic Serum, Chantecaille tackles the ‘screen face’ ageing effects of hours of computer/ phone screens blaring back at us. Cutting edge technology with an old favourite, hyaluronic acid, provides skin protection and plumping without stickiness thanks to multiple molecular weight hyaluronics, says Scott. There’s a host of botanical ingredients that are between 79%-100% in keeping with the brand’s commitment to ‘natural with results’ promise. “The overall beauty ethic is to complement healthy skincare with simple makeup. Our seasonal makeup launch strategy sees an India-inspired collection for Australian winter season”, Scott shares. A brand with action behind its caring heart, the NY-based Chantecaille Beauté Inc

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is French family owned – the Chantecaille founders and their adult children providing a diversity of skills that creates a firm foundation. Chantecaille uses the term CAUSEmetics for its cosmetics-with-a-cause portfolio. An elephant, depicted on the packaging, indicates the key ‘cause’ – a % of proceeds goes directly to endangered species and to climate change (see more: https:// chantecaille.com/pages/philanthropy). PLAYA

2: Sarah Crampton - Director of Product at Playa Beauty Californian founder Shelby exudes the beach girl style. But she’s the first to admit, it doesn’t just happen because she was born with sand in her shoes. Fighting her unruly waves, she took action, inspired by the idea of “beach hair but better”, Sarah Crampton tells us. With her mind’s eye set on achieving easy, wash ‘n’ go for air-dry styling she joined forces with the formulators to create 96%99% natural products designed to work for everyone, as she says, “to create the best beach-hair for everyone”. On August 2nd 2019 the brand will be two years old. A statement Sarah’s smile conveys is something she is mighty proud to be a part of. Having launched online in the US through a highly successful introduction on Violet Grey (https://www.violetgrey.com), US Vogue ran a story and the business plan trajectory took a swift path north and high street retail became a reality sooner than planned. Mecca was its first international retailer in May 2018, in the UK it is the British beauty-girl’s go-to website: Cult Beauty at (https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk). The original five-product line-up has been built upon with such smart solution-solvers as Soft Volume Power and New Day Mist with Salt Scrub and weekly re-set Hair Mask. NPD is driven by a non-negotiable philosophy to only create problem solving products. Concluding our chat, Sarah leaves me with the words: “Clean formulas. Radical results”. Nice.

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THIS WORKS

3: Ray Burns – International Sales Director Founded by former Beauty Director at Vogue UK, Kathy Phillips, This Works is a brand built from a bounty of experience in what works and what doesn’t. As pioneers in the development of targeted natural solutions that work in harmony with your body clock to maximise skin health and boost performance 24/7, Ray’s role at the showcase was to introduce new This Works beauties on the block. Morning Expert is created for mornings when you struggle to face the day. Its formulation is based on a superblend of natural actives and brain-sharpening essential oils, to help tackle morning demons and send you on your way with an inner and outer glow, explains Ray. Tapping into one’s circadian rhythm, essential oils in the evening and morning can help you sleep well and then wake up well. Light Time Open Eyes is tapping into the Blue Light damage concern. The glideon eye cream tightens skin while soothing and hydrating tired eyes and keeping them looking youthful. Daily use will refresh, brighten and de-puff eyes post sleep, and help prevent premature ageing. “Utilising this science makes beauty less superficial and functional”. It’s Wellness Skincare. Another point: This Works products are developed using real experiences from real people, says Ray. JUICE BEAUTY

4: Karen Behnke and Simone Pedersen Born from the goal to meet or exceed efficacy of conventional chemical brands, Juice Beauty produces clinically validated skincare and vibrant makeup using authentically organic ingredients. “You don’t have to compromise”, says Founder, Karen Behnke. “From organic farming, ethical sourcing and sustainability our team in Northern California builds products with healthful ingredients so they feed the skin”. The farm in Sonoma, a region known for its ethical farming practices, is where media

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are welcome to visit for a brand immersion. At Mindful Beauty, Karen was showing the hero, spa grade Stem Cellular Exfoliating Peel Spray. With its instant effect of exfoliation skin emerges smoother and younger-looking after just one use. A gentle, plant-derived exfoliant, it does everything a chemical peel does. “After five years in business, in 2010, we got over the ‘does it work?’ question when we started releasing the clinicals; that’s when Juice Beauty really took off”. The main message from the brand is ‘Age Defying & Blemish Cleansing’ using fruit and veg derived ingredients covering three main categories: Green Apple; Blemish and Stem Cellular targeted to concerns and agegroups. Four years ago, Juice Beauty launched makeup in collaboration with Gwyneth Paltrow. “Customers were asking us for cosmetics. With their organically cleansed skin they were unhappy about then clogging up their skin with traditional makeup. In partnership with Gwyneth, we introduced foundations, cheek, eye, lip and blush”. GALLINÉE

5: Marie Drago - Founder Celebrating its 3rd birthday when we met, Gallinée was founded by Marie Drago to serve the needs of the many consumers who have gut problems. She simplifies the science: “Using our scientific expertise, we got busy producing an incredible patented complex of prebiotics, probiotics and lactic acid to help nourish and support our skin’s good bacteria. We honed formulations that were bursting with high concentrations of active ingredients that respected skin’s sensitivity”. With four patents to its credentials, Gallinée caught the attention of Unilever Venture which now supports the brand’s growth as a minority partner. “It’s a healthy relationship. They have good ethics and transparency”, says the founder. Debuting in Australia in Mecca in July 2019, Marie says: “Mecca is the best retailer

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in the world”. Two of her products were on show: Face Vinegar, acid toner for sensitive skin and oily skin; and Cleansing Bar solid cleanser, soap without soap pH5.8. BAWDY

6: Sylvia Wiesenberg – Founder From trading floor to fitness instructor, in her new-found vocation, Sylvia Wiesenberg was inspired to design a workout regime which she dubbed: ‘Tonique’, targeting the butt. “Then, as I got older, I realised working out our butt wasn’t enough. We need extra help”. Focussing her attention on both self-care and her obsession with the butt, she turned to plants to perform this bum-beautifying task. She thought about its positioning in store and wondered how she would go forward. “There’s no store aisle for butt beauty. Why can’t I be the beauty disrupter and build a brand focussed on the butt”. She got a lot of eye-rolling with what she was doing, which ceased after the launch of Bawdy butt sheet masks – with names like BITE, SLAP and SHAKE IT resulted in being picked up by Ulta Beauty in the US, rolling out to 400 stores. Mecca rolled out in June 2019 across all stores. “It’s all about addressing different skin needs, not stretch marks. Wearing jeans 24/7, our skin needs restoration”. Three new products roll out in September, but not sheet masks. We are waiting to hear…will it be creams? lotions? We’ll find out soon! “I’m obsessed with making women feel great. Beauty comes from inner happiness and wellness. It’s about owning your self confidence and butt beauty is unapologetically a part of that”. LUNA BRONZE

7: Rhiannon Hall and Maddy Balderson A skin cancer melanoma removal brought home the life-threatening reality of what can happen if you sun bake in direct sunlight, for friends Maddy and Rhiannon. Eschewing further lazy days in the sun, they looked to self-tanning products on the market and their experience revealed products

OUT & ABOUT

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01. SCOTT MEDWATZ 02. SARAH CRAMPTON 03. RAY BURNS 04. KAREN BEHNKE AND SIMONE PEDERSEN 05. MARIE DRAGO 06. SYLVIA WIESENBERG 07. RHIANNON HALL AND MADDY BALDERSON 08. BEE SHAPIRO

with no skincare benefits, awful packaging and terrible, orange results, they say. The seed was sown to create their own brand – aligned with their ethical values. Luna Bronze was born: 99% certified organic, PETA cruelty free with a luxury look and feel. Scented with a lemon myrtle essential oil blend and super hydrating, using organic coconut and jojoba, the Aussie-made brand spans daily-use moisturising lotion for a healthy glow, through to the mousse for the darkest result. A moon symbol depicts colour depth: Light is a full moon and Dark is an eclipse. Packaging indicates the % of DHA (natural and Eco Cert) active tanning agent. “People love that they can apply and get dressed straight away.” ELLIS BROOKLYN

8: Bee Shapiro - Founder New York Times beauty columnist, Bee Shapiro found the idea of wearing fragrance abhorrent when she was pregnant with her first child. “As a pregnant woman, I had an obsession with what I was breathing in… clean air, and all that…As time went by, I saw more and more ‘green’ beauty brands coming across my desk and I thought…why not in fragrance? This was six years ago and people thought I was insane…retailers AND consumers”. Her research revealed there’s good and bad naturals and good and bad synthetics. It was her job to work with chemists who could formulate the best. Launched in 2015, Ellis Brooklyn, named after her firstborn and the inspirational area of NYC, Bee’s eco luxe fragrance brand offers a luxury experience, formulated without parabens, phthalates, and crueltyfree and eco-friendly. Staying true to the high-end offer, the perfumer is Jerome Epinette (Byredo and Atelier Colognes). Launched in Mecca in 2017, Myth is the best seller – described by Bee as ‘a modern musk that’s still feminine and inviting’.

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OUT & ABOUT

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NATURALLY SERIOUS BUILDING THE CLEAN CATEGORY Naturally Serious is a skincare brand from June Jacobs, the folks who bring us Peter Thomas Roth, the results-driven skincare brand that’s exclusive to Sephora in Australia. So, too, is Naturally Serious partnering with the specialty retailer in its Clean Beauty category, a space that is in full swing across Sephora US and beginning to repeat its success here. Prior to going on counter in mid-June, Pip Crichton – Regional Director, Australia and SE Asia brought the complete range to esprit HQ – The Intermedia Group – and shared the briefing with our colleagues on Professional Beauty Magazine. Much as we love the “kitchen sink” indie brands, this is categorically not one of those. With parent company, June Jacobs’ spa skincare expertise, the veteran mother-daughter team used their +20 years’ knowledge creating and working with their skincare laboratories to come up with natural ingredients that achieved the same results as traditional formulas. Non-negotiable is the criteria: No B.A.D. ingredients, ones that can be considered “bad, ambiguous and debatable.” Pip says the brand leadership comes from the experienced belief that clean is the way of the 21st century, and that everything eventually is going to be clean soon. “The Conscious Consumer is not a minority activist anymore”, she says. Described as being “leanly and ethically developed without BS, the products combine powerful natural ingredients with cutting-edge technology for clinically advanced results”. Essentially there are six antioxidants that are red, white and green tea, goji berry, pomegranate and grape seed extract. Together they create an amazing antioxidant blend that really helps boost the efficacy of whatever the active

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PAMPERING THE PINS

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01. THE NATURALLY SERIOUS RANGE 02. BEAUTY EDITORS AT INTERMEDIA GROUP: ANITA QUADE AND JENNY BERICH – PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY PRINT & DIGITAL, PIP CRICHTON – REGIONAL DIRECTOR, PETER THOMAS ROTH BRANDS, ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA PRINT & DIGITAL AND AMANDA KEARLEY – HUSH COMMUNICATIONS

ingredients are in the formula”, as well as a “suit of armour to also protect against environmental toxins” adds Pip. Through sun, sweat and environmental stress, Naturally Serious works over time to detox skin from past free radicals, dead cells, pollution and even damage to help past skin damage and reduce the look of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots caused by photoageing. “The target consumer is skin-conscious, socially responsible and results driven - and wants her skincare to be the same”. Naturally Serious is cleanly made, ethically developed and clinically tested, delivering results for all skin types. The names call out to be read: Major Moisture - gentle cream cleanser; Get Even - cold-pressed peel pads; Supercharge anti-oxidant moisture serum; Skin Warrior - anti-pollution repair cream; Zero Baggage - anti-dark circle eye cream; Mask-imum Revival - hydra-plumping mask; and Lip Service - 3-in-1 lip serum. Price range is around $21.00 to $74.00.

Legs have stepped up to the marvels of masks thanks to the inventive minds of the team at Nair. Masks have been making headlines across face, feet, hair, hands and recently butts (see BAWDY) and now it’s time for the pins to get a pampering. But being Nair it’s more than a soft option for legs; with Nair’s category-leading expertise in hair removal, new Nair Leg Mask removes hair, gently exfoliates and moisturisers the skin. Leah Porter – Brand Manager, Nair along with Soraya Calavassy (Neon Black PR) and Daniela Costa (brow & beauty specialist) held one-on-ones for beauty media, introducing Nair’s biggest launch this year. “Nair’s first-of-its-kind Leg Mask Hair Remover + Beauty Treatment is designed to be used in between a regular hair removal routine to maintain beautifully soft, smooth, gorgeous looking legs”, says Leah. The 3-in-1 treatment removes hair and stubble, gently exfoliates and moisturises the skin, and minimises hair re-growth*. Enriched with skin-loving ingredients like 100% Natural Clay and Seaweed to absorb excess oil and dirt on the skin and within the pores, while gently exfoliating dry & flaky skin to reveal luxuriously soft, smooth, hydrated legs that stay smooth for longer*. Free from parabens and phthalates, it works its magic in less then 10 minutes. RRP $15.00 (227g), it’s available at leading retailers nationally from July 2019. *vs. Shaving. Data on File

01. SORAYA CALAVASSY - NEON BLACK PR; LEAH PORTER – BRAND MANAGER, NAIR AND DANIELA COSTA - BROW & BEAUTY SPECIALIST

OUT & ABOUT

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MEDIA AND AGENCY COLLABORATIONS GETTING CLOSER TO CUSTOMERS Beauty specialist agency HYLAND, led by founder Virginia Hyland, celebrated the support of the media industry in bringing their clients closer to the customer. HYLAND invited media executives from across the industry to both thank them and look forward to the year ahead. Guests were delighted to be welcomed aboard Sydney’s newest superyacht, The Wolf, to enjoy the spectacular lights of Vivid. Virginia tells esprit: “Our relationships with the media industry are as critical to us as those we enjoy with our clients. As an agency that promises to get closer to the customer, we rely on the insight behind, and content delivered by, your valuable media channels every day. We have enormous respect for our media partners and without you would not be able to achieve the results we do for the clients we represent. You are our friends and we are your biggest supporters”.

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01. VIRGINIA HYLAND - FOUNDER & PRINCIPAL, HYLAND (2ND FROM RIGHT) WITH SOME OF HER HYLAND TEAM (L-R): SOPHIE VAN GELDERMALSEN – COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR, MASS BRANDS; DARA OZA – SENIOR DIGITAL COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER; AND RICHELLE FLAY – GROUP BUSINESS DIRECTOR - CLIENT LEAD - COTY

02. MEDIA MEDIA EVERYWHERE AND PLENTY A DROP TO DRINK!

CIRE BY TRUDON A LUXE BEESWAXINSPIRED CANDLE Cire Trudon, the world’s oldest and most revered candle manufacturer, introduced editors, bloggers and industry influencers to their new candle: Cire. Guest of honour was Elodie Herreria – International Sales Director, Cire Trudon. Elodie presented a vivid introduction about the history of the house and an olfactory showcase of the inspiration and complexities behind the latest candle launch. An olfactory, artisanal representation of the manufacturer, Cire blends emanations of rich, warm wax and perfumes being crafted. Evocatively reinterpreting Cire Trudon’s fundamental values - ancient savoir-faire and commitment to excellence - new Cire candle reveals a unique scent; a beeswax absolute unfolds, rich and deep. The bee-inspired event took place in the Baccarat Café, part of luxury boutique Palmer & Penn in Sydney’s Double Bay. Hosted by Cire Trudon’s Australian distributor, Agence de Parfum, guests sampled distinctive honey inspired flavours with a menu crafted by Sides and Main. The Bespoke Boys florists captured the theme with a display of exquisite florals in bright yellow and white tones with lush greenery, while oversized graphics from the Cire campaign and miniature jars of Cire Trudon labelled honey added an extra touch. Bees and beeswax are at the heart of Cire Trudon’s history. Since the 17th century, the brand’s motto has been ‘Deo regique laborant’, which means ‘they (the bees) work for God and the King’. Using a key ingredient that comes directly from the hive isn’t a trivial choice for Cire Trudon, it is rather a way to commit to a more sustainable practice in partnership with regional environmentalists including the Perche Regional Nature Park in Normandy and the Orne Dark Bee

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01. CLAYTON ILOLAHIA - WHAT MEN SHOULD SMELL LIKE; ELODIE HERRERIA INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR, CIRE TRUDON AND MICHAEL MARZANO - AGENCE DE PARFUM

02. ICY LING - INDULGENCE MAGAZINE AND NICK SMART - AGENCE DE PARFUM

Conservancy. The goal is to protect the dark bee (native European bee) inside the Perche Regional Nature Park where the manufacture is located. Europe’s endemic dark bee is an essential link to help preserve biodiversity and the survival of the species. For each candle sold, Cire Trudon will contribute to financing and establishing the Orne Dark Bee Conservancy. Hand-poured in the classic Cire Trudon vessel with gold emblem, the house’s new Cire candle is distinctive with amber tinted glass which wraps around the inspired essence. Available in Australia at Libertine Parfumerie as well as exclusively though selected niche boutique perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand. RRP $140.00, 270g (min 55 hour burn time).

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OUT & ABOUT

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CLIVE CHRISTIAN NOBLE COLLECTION INSPIRED BY ART & HORTICULTURE Clive Christian is a prestigious British perfume house available in high-end and exclusive stores and perfumeries in limited distribution around the world. The Australian stockists are select David Jones department stores, Libertine Parfumerie and Peony Melbourne. Libertine’s founder, and CEO of Agence de Parfums, Nick Smart, hosted the Australian launch of its Noble Collection with a media lunch at The Roosevelt in Sydney. Co-hosted by the authorised Clive Christian Australian distributor, Agence de Parfum, together with appointed luxury public relations agency Élysée Collective, the fragrance showcase saw Agence’s CEO, Nick Smart enlighten guests with a historic olfactive journey, detailing the story and complexities behind each scent. Clive Christian’s The Noble Collection evokes the spirit of nobility and is inspired by the perfumer’s passion for horticultural,

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SANTA MARIA NOVELLA POPS UP FOR AN IMMERSION

02. 01. SAM YATES – WISH MAGAZINE, SUSAN SKELLY – ROBB REPORT/BELLE AND ELISABETH KING – BUSINESS AND ESPRIT JOURNALIST

02. CLIVE CHRISTIAN NOBLE VII AND VIII 03. ANDREA FERRARI – ESPRIT MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA WITH ELEANOR PENDLETON – GRITTY PRETTY

04. ICY LING - INDULGENCE MAGAZINE AND NICK SMART - CEO AGENCE DE PARFUM

architectural and artistic movements that shaped key periods in history. As is characteristic with all Clive Christian perfumes, each creation in the Noble Collection captures an authentic sense of creativity and passion. It celebrates the opulence and ideology of Clive’s chosen prominent eras and explores ingredients and aesthetics to perfectly shape each scent, promising magic and allure in equal measure. Today’s collection comprises three pairs: Noble VII, Noble III and Noble XXI, presented in stylised matte black bottles with gold and royal red detailing. The bottles are topped with Clive Christian’s iconic crown-shaped stoppers and encased in a black presentation box lined with sumptuous royal red velvet. Each is 50ml RPP $629.00.

Santa Maria Novella’s Australian launch of their exquisite collection of beauty and lifestyle products included a day of press showings at their pop-up boutique. The brand immersion experience paid homage to its historic heritage. Santa Maria Novella’s Australian Brand Ambassador Sarah Hook, as guest of distributor Agence de Parfum, combined forces with National Education Manager Michael Marzano to take guests through a detailed exploration of the brand’s history. As one of the world’s oldest operating pharmacies, there were plenty of anecdotes from the brand’s rich heritage, drawing on the historical touch points that make the house so special. Michael took guests on a sensory journey, allowing them to experience a selection of the brand’s hero products at various beauty stations set up throughout the space. Santa Maria Novella is available in Australia at Agence de Parfum’s retail boutique Libertine Parfumerie, Mondopiero, Peony Melbourne, Ondene, as well as through other niche perfumeries in Australia.

02. 01. NICK SMART - AGENCE DE PARFUM AND SARAH HOOK – SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

02. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA POP-UP BOUTIQUE

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OUT & ABOUT

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MANICARE’S 5TH FASHION DESIGN COLLAB - ENTER AJE. Bringing fashion to beauty is an element that gets customers looking, talking and buying. With Manicare, and its now-famous fashion design collaborations, it’s getting customers collecting. They love it, and naturally so do the retailers. Australia’s number one beauty tools brand*, Manicare, has partnered with chic Australian fashion label, Aje., bringing to market a new fashion inspired limitededition range of nail buffers, shapers and tweezers. MBFWA – Australia’s leading fashion show event – set the stage for the Manicare Aje. preview…on the runway as well as buffing, filing and plucking backstage! With the prints just launched on the MBFWA runway, Aje. SS19 collection ‘VICE’ incorporates the mood of Australia’s renowned Surfers Paradise intertwined with a rich dash of iconic ‘90s glamour. The range draws a nostalgic connection for the Aje. design duo, having grown up in the coastal realm. It represents the times had – one of freedom, curiosity, individuality and extravagance. Incorporating the vibrant culture of surf, city lights, fast boats, sun and glitz, the collection riffs off this playful, liberated aesthetic. The wave-like patterns meet with hand painted prints inspired by the hyper coloured t-shirts, 1990’s checks and the floral board shorts of the coast. The result is a stylish beautytool range that’s ‘different’, colourful, luxe and glamorous. Available from July 4th 2019 in all major pharmacies, Chemist Warehouse and Priceline. The Range includes: Fashion Tweezer – RRP $11.99, Mini Tweezer – RRP $8.99, Fashion Shaper 1 pk - RRP $2.29, Fashion Shapers 2 pk - RRP $5.95 and Miracle Shiner 2 pk - RRP $7.99. *Source: IRI Scan 12/5/19

02. 01. AJE. GIVE THAT SPECIAL DESIGNER TOUCH TO MANICARE’S HARD-WORKING BEAUTYTOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

02. BACKSTAGE AT MBFWA IT’S ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN - WITH MANICARE AND AJE.

03. SITTING PRETTY MANICARE AND AJE. BEHIND THE SCENES AT FASHION WEEK

CHERIE LAU – MANICARE BRAND MANAGER TELLS ESPRIT

renowned Surfers Paradise, which is where the designers/founders Adrian and Edwina grew up. As their collaboration partner, it was such an honour to support them backstage to feature their latest Spring Summer Collection at the MBFWA opening.

What do the fashion collaborations bring to Manicare? As industry leaders in premium beauty tools, Manicare - like Aje. - are dedicated to all things quality and share a modern approach to their brand ethos. Our partnership with Aje. aims to give that special designer touch to our hard-working beauty tools and accessories that help women look and feel confident every day. Every women deserves a little designer bling in their beauty routine. How was the process...creating the collaboration and working with Aje? Aje. is delightful to partner with. We love their latest VICE collection. Particularly how the inspiration comes from Australia’s

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INFLUENCER espritâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer.

S I N E A D M U R R AY R E S C U E M E AC A D E M Y ICY LING MICHAEL BROWN

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SINEAD MURRAY By Nicci Herrera

You can never stop learning! There is no age limit or capacity reached where a new fact pops up yet your brain is full! To say that I am an advocate for learning would be an understatement. I studied a Bachelor of Education Secondary in Brisbane majoring in Drama and English. After teaching high school students in my hometown of the Gold Coast for years, I moved to Melbourne and then travelled around the UK and Europe with my partner. Finding ourselves in Sydney and to be honest a little confused with what career move I would do next, I applied for a temp role at M·A·C Cosmetics as the Education Coordinator. And BOOM! Did my eyes open to the beauty world and the amazing artistry demonstrated by the Education team and our retail artists. I have a personal passion for creativity and education and now get to support an amazing brand that shares these values. I have a lot to learn and enjoy being a part of a great team that inspires our customers to feel comfortable in their skin and express themselves through makeup.

INFLUENCER

Have you met... Have you met Sinead Murray? Nicci chats with Sinead – Education Coordinator at M•A•C Cosmetics Australia HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN WORKING IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

I am still fairly new to the beauty world having worked in the industry for two years now. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB?

I was the floor manager/ concierge standing at the front of a telecommunications store with an iPad – as you can imagine a lot of customers let their frustration out on me! WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR ROLE?

The education function is fundamental to the business, and I love being part of that. My role allows me to collaborate with a range of departments and foster creativity. I feel fortunate to work with some pretty cool people. M·A·C IS VERY FOCUSED ON TRAINING, HOW MANY ARTISTS WOULD YOU TRAIN IN A YEAR?

With over 500 artists and a brand bursting with product innovation M•A•C Australia’s education calendar is a busy place to be. I coordinate all behind-thescenes which involves working with lots of departments to get these trainings up and running. These are then facilitated by our amazing Education Leads. DO YOU HAVE A LIFE MOTTO?

Not really, just be a nice person. WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE STATE TO STAY IN WHEN TRAVELLING FOR WORK AND WHY?

With Gold Coast being my hometown, I would have to say Queensland. It’s always nice to stay with family rather than in a hotel room. WHAT’S THE BEST BIT OF ADVICE THAT HAS EVER BEEN SHARED WITH YOU?

Always listen to the other person’s opinion, that way you’ll have two. DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE PLAYLIST AND PODCAST WHILE TRAVELING?

Love a good 90’s playlist to pump me up and then the counter opposite for podcasts, I love crime and history.

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INFLUENCER

The foundation to anti-ageing Words like flawless are a given when it comes to foundation for ANY age, but once the lines of ‘experience’ … those expressions of happily living life … appear, our radar seems to pick up on the word ‘wrinkles’. We home-in on anti-ageing formulas seeking solutions to our own fine lines and wrinkles. Skincare is of course critical to the equation…and then foundation. Foundation is the icing on the cake, all the prettier for being there. Not to be mistaken for an anti-ageing treatment, foundation today is formulated for the widest range of coverage and finish. Makeup artists would say foundation is an essential piece of your skincare arsenal. Enter Nigel Stanislaus, RescuMe Academy in-house Makeup Artist with techniques to help you upskill for your work on the shop floor! Here we pick Nigel’s brains for expert techniques and experienced advice that he’s sharing in his online Be Your Own Makeup Artist Course. 84| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

esprit: Nigel, foundations today do everything from blurring imperfections and adding moisture to actually treating the skin with active ingredients. How does a woman begin to work through the available choice to narrow it down to what’s best for her? Different skins have different needs. Work out what is needed to balance your customer’s complexion and go from there. For maturing skins, you might want to find an illuminating formula like YSL Touché Éclat range. Cult Korean foundation -

Sulwhasoo cushion foundation is excellent as it has ginseng extracts to nourish the skin. Armani’s Designer Lift Foundation does it all to achieve an effect of ‘ten years younger’. I personally use Chanel Aqua Vitalumiere as it gives me that beautiful feminine velvet finish or Armani Luminous Silk Foundation for a creamy finish.

esprit: We can adopt a philosophical attitude to getting older being a fact of life but many …no, MOST, women prefer to use beauty products that turn back the clock on the visible signs

INFLUENCER

of ageing. What are the top three key elements of a foundation formulation that achieves this? Choose colour correcting concealer to balance out blues and purples in more mature skin tones. I personally use pinks and yellows to brighten up areas like the inner eye areas and around the mouth to give a lift up in radiance and luminosity. Skincare incorporated into foundation is a wonderful way of maintaining youthfulness. Cushion foundation like Sulwhasoo is great to give glow to skin. A finishing powder like by By Terry Hyaluronic Powder is great for setting makeup and still have a skincare ingredient to keep skin hydrated.

esprit: While we might be pretty good at using foundation to create a more youthful complexion, we see customers bearing a beautiful bevy of chest freckles that honestly say: “look at me, look at me” and betray the flawless face. Can you talk us through the greater role of foundation’s landscape (ie: including the chest)? I think this is a skincare / sunscreen question. Sharing Tip: Don’t ignore taking care of this area. And when you need more coverage, I would swirl on a mineral powder foundation to keep the area appear more flawless especially for those plunging necklines.

esprit: We can stand in front of the mirror, side-on and suck in our tummy just to see how we’d look after a month with no sweet treats but we can’t puff out our narrow face, if that’s what we’ve been blessed with as we age. How do you cosmetically plump up a face that’s aged through natural fat-loss, giving your customer the benefit of a decade? This is another skincare question. If it’s not done at the aesthetician with fillers and plumpers, I like hyaluronic acid at night and ascorbic acid for skin clarity.

RESCUME ACADEMY’S RESIDENT MAKEUP ARTIST EXPERT, NIGEL STANISLAUS

esprit: Just like the common adage that a $20 white tee-shirt works with designer jeans so too can makeup be mixedand-matched across price points. What part does foundation play in this mix – go exey or go budget? Expensive foundation and budget lippie? I like to spend more on foundation to be honest. I think ‘drug store’ brands can still do the job well but I like to use luxury reputable foundation. These days, I like the idea of makeup-into-skincare foundation. However, we have Maybelline Age Rewind that I have used for years that’s a sure winner from the drugstore collection. Spend more on foundation and go drug store with mascara and blush.

esprit: What’s the ideal wardrobe of foundation. For example, say we need three coverages: BB Cream, Long Wear and Translucent? What do you reckon sales consultants should recommend and why? Think about occasions and seasons. The warmer the season the less layers we wear. Like a BB cream in summer and maybe a richer formula for protection in winter.

YOU CAN LEARN EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BEAUTY AND MAKEUP FROM NIGEL VIA HIS COURSE AT WWW.RESCUMEACADEMY.COM AND CHECK OUT HIS ONLINE BE YOUR OWN MAKEUP ARTIST COURSE.

Book & Save Save $50 as an esprit Magazine Australia reader. Sign up for your course using this code ESPRITCOURSE to save $50 off the full price!

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Help Australians face cancer with confidence this September.

Look Good Feel Better empowers 7,000 cancer patients each year through confidence-building workshops. You can support our work by fundraising during Feel Better Month. visit lgfb.org.au/esprit or email fundraising@lgfb.org.au.

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It’s a powerhouse at brightening the complexion by This intense brightening treatment helps the dullest improving the appearance of skinwith tonevitamin and pigmentation. Freshly activated beauty booster C, POP! complexion glow with that ‘lit from within’ look. 6% natural and daisy. hyaluronic acid and daisy. its light feel packs an antioxidant punch to brighten and vitamin C powder delivers a potent antioxidant quality. to activate maintain skin texture and glow. Certified natural, it’s paired Vitamin C Booster Treatment is a certified natural 2-week, illuminate the skin. It’s a powerhouse at brightening the complexion by with Vitamin C Booster Treatment help extend lotion. and freshly activated radiancetreatment beauty booster. Powerfully Embrace luminosity this daily to light hydration This intense brightening helps the dullest natural improving the appearance of skin tone and pigmentation. 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*Averaged self-assessment results from 30 women using Trilogy Vitamin C Booster Treatment over 2 weeks. Used twice daily. ^

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A MILLENNIAL’S NOTE ON

MANAGING MILLENNIALS

By Icy Ling INSTAGRAM | @icybutterfly

If you Google search ‘Managing Millennials’, there are 15,800,000 results. Obviously ‘somebody’ needed the answers. According to joboutlook.gov.au (May,2019), the average age of Chief Executives and Managing Directors in Australia is 50.5 years old. I also randomly checked the average age for Advertising, Public Relations and Sales Managers in Australia – 41 years old. So where are Millennials fitting in? Doing ‘nothing’ but playing with their phones at this moment … Or working and dealing with the one part of the most important stakeholders of your company – your clients and customers. How are you finding working with Millennials in your team?

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I have been an editor of Australia-based Chinese magazine ‘Indulgence’ for five years. Now leading a team of writers. There are three generations in our office and the majority of people are Millennials. Luckily I received some study on managing Millennials in a Masters Degree. Otherwise these girls might have successfully driven me to become an alcoholic by now. One editor once asked me on her first day: ‘Our office is too far from where I live. Can I work from home?’ It also happened one lunch time, after disappearing for more than two hours. I got a text from an editor ‘… this cafe is so cosy, I will stay here and work this afternoon’. She even invited me to join her, sounding like my BFF. I have tons of stories like these. These editors are extremely talented writers. A lot of times when I revise their articles, I get a big smile on my face. They are highly motivated by working with interesting people and they love learning. They want to be involved in decision making. But… let’s face it, they are Millennials. They are not afraid of change. If they don’t see any opportunities for growth, or if they struggle maintaining a good relationship with their boss, they will start looking for another job. To that new girl who complained about travelling too far to work, I GoogleMapped her the best route. When I realised there is a bit of a walk from the station to the office, I calculated the calories she could burn each day from that much walking, blinked and said ‘there you go, my top secret for staying slim’. Of course, I visited that ‘cosy’ cafe near our office with the other girl. And that summer, I brought flowers to the office and spent extra time in the morning to decorate each

editor’s desk, fill drawers with chocolate and chips. Trust me, it didn’t take much time, but I really enjoyed doing that. Seeing their impression when arriving at the office, I felt super satisfied. In this job, I work with a lot of freelancers and casual staff. One problem I’ve got is that some of them are less considerate than the permanent staff. You can clearly feel that they are ‘just doing their job’. With these talents, you do need to take more time finding what motivates them, identify their personal goals, and find a link to the company goal. Most importantly, she needs to know that not only your company needs her, but that this is also a great position that will benefit her. They will also appreciate this type of conversation. I was born in the mid 80s. Referred to as a Senior Millennial (Senior Millennials are born between 1981 and 1990; Junior Millennials were born between 1991 and 2000). When I was kid, if our TV or fridge broke down, my parents would patiently get them repaired. Nowadays, most Millennials (including Senior Millennials) will not hesitate to replace the broken items. Or they will threaten you if you don’t refund them or exchange to a new one; and they will post onto social media to share their ‘bad experience’ with everyone. Fixing a broken TV or refrigerator to Millennials might be a waste of time, money and energy that they would spend elsewhere. (Edit a post on social media, too easy). I am sure you would agree: Millennials love being more creative, they absorb information faster but they crave recognition. They don’t mind working hard

if they see themselves able to be developed, as well as getting a happy work / life balance. You just have to tweak your way of management a bit in front of them. Don’t criticise them spending too much time on social media. Login to the APP, follow them and view what they have posted. Some of them have very impressive content that may surprise you! Remember, you can always connect with them through social media. You can find what interests them, what comforts them and what happens in their life after work. All of these efforts will assist you to manage them better. The best manager should always be happy to see his or her team member growing, right? Hey, don’t forget, when they grow, you do too! BELOW: ICY AT MBFWA 2019 WITH JAMIE, A LITTLE STAR FROM FASHION WEEK

LET’S CHAT

Remember I am writing this column each issue in esprit Magazine Australia for 2019. If there’s anything you’d like me to write about, don’t hesitate to message me on Instagram: @icybutterfly. Connect with me and you can help me to decide on the topic for the next column. See you in October. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |89

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M I C H A E Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S T O P T I P S T O

s n o i s s e r p m I t s r i F

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We may not like to admit this, but how often does a first impression about someone we meet, stay with us for a while, sometimes forever… First impressions are lasting impressions. You may have heard it said: “You only get one chance to make a first impression” and scientists say that within seven seconds a person will make several judgments about who you are and if they can trust you. Has that got your attention?

BY MICHAEL BROWN @MBROWN_BEAUTY

Then read on.

WWW.MICHAELBROWNBEAUTY.COM.AU MICHAEL BROWN HAS JUST BEEN APPOINTED BY MARC JACOBS BEAUTY AS SOUTHEAST ASIA REGIONAL ARTISTRY AMBASSADOR

How you are perceived and your perception of the image you’re projecting can be two very different things. And more food for thought, also heavily discussed around this topic: your trustworthiness has little to do with your skills or competence and more to do with the initial impression you give when you first meet someone new. Initially, these discussion points could sound a little harsh, but when thinking about situations in my life, especially in retail environments, my experience is that they are true! As a sales consultant/beauty advisor, your body language, facial expression as well as your overall appearance (which should be tailored to the brand you represent) speaks more volumes in first impressions than your words. IT GOES BOTH WAYS…

In my 10 years of working across many cosmetic retail floors in Australia, I was always a big believer in the saying “Don’t judge a book by its cover”, relating to customers. Some of my biggest sales were from women that didn’t even appear to be interested in beauty! Maybe it was their day off and they were makeup free? Maybe they were new to beauty and were looking for someone trustworthy to get their first glam on… who knows? And it’s not for me to create my own story.

The point is, give the same service and treat all customers the same, as you never know when that next sale, big or small, will come by and what leads to other connections and opportunities. As much as you, the beauty advisor, will have your own private first impressions when approaching a customer, they will also be doing the same about you, but in possibly a slightly different manner… Fun, Friendly and Trustworthy are what a customer is usually looking for when it comes to beauty. SO, LET’S THINK OF IT LIKE THIS…

You could have the most experienced, knowledgeable and informative beauty advisor on the floor serving potential customers. This person isn’t smiling, though…they look disinterested and as though they don’t want to be there. But when asked about a product they know their stuff, but deliver it with a ‘can’t be bothered tone’. The other beauty advisor is smiling, looks busy, attentive and interested in what they are doing and is acknowledging everyone

that comes into their floor space. When approached by a customer, they are professional, and they start a conversation, fully focused on that customer, with eye contact - all traits that build trust. I know which beauty advisor I would rather be consulting with, no matter how experienced they may be on paper. ARE YOU INVITING?

Retail can be tough, I’ve been there. Slow days, long hours and sometimes, difficult customers… and, don’t even get me started on stock issues, but it’s all part of the journey and only you can change your mindset and how you let it impact on you and your day. I used to like to keep busy and rather than just stand there, I loved playing a little game with myself which involved me acknowledging every customer that walked by. This could be as simple as a smile, slight nod of the head, or an actual “how’s your day?” It feels good to be acknowledged. It can be seen as a symbol of respect, which leads to trust which therefore gives an inviting first impression, bringing us right back round to the importance, in retail, of a smile and genuinely connected attitude to everyone. If you can take one thing away from this, it is important to have self-awareness and understand how others may perceive you when you walk into a room, or in this case are working on a retail shop floor.

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Long Term Goals …because they’re worth it!

Today’s self-help support frequently encourages the practice of ‘tiny tweaks can kickstart a total transformation’. A subtle pivot towards a goal gathers positive growth over time that can result in a metamorphosis. One bad habit replaced with a good habit has significant benefits the longer we stick with it to see and feel the results. So, when a customer presents to you with concerns that you can see will take time to overcome, how do you help her envision the goal, believe that it is within reach, introduce the strategy and then support their journey…to gorgeousness?

esprit asks the BAs: “How do you help customers envision a long-term goal and introduce the strategy and support their journey …to gorgeousness?”

treatments. By recommending the correct skincare routine my customers can achieve the results they want, their skin will be the best it can be and I can make them loyal customers to my counter.

Bridget Major SEPHORA STORE: DAVID JONES BOURKE ST CITY: MELBOURNE, VIC

It is so important to me to greet every client like they are the only person in the store. I give them my undivided attention to ensure they feel comfortable to open up to me. Once the trust is built, I approach their concerns with ease to really understand what and how it is affecting them. Nine times out of ten the concern is exaggerated in their mind so it’s important to make them feel beautiful regardless. I always relate their concerns back to myself or someone they can identify with to give them reassurance. Understanding their everyday routine makes it easy to include the key steps into their life with simplicity. By empowering my client from within they can reach a realistic goal to achieve their ultimate beauty.

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Yanyan Guo SISLEY STORE: DAVID JONES BOURKE ST CITY: MELBOURNE, VIC

When a customer comes to my counter with any concern for their skin, my strategy is to give them the best solution with Sisley products to treat their skin condition. First step is a professional consultation so I can find out what their main skin concerns are. I take time to listen to them and by understanding their concerns, recommend Sisley products that will give the best results for their skin. By asking questions and encouraging them to experience the correct products they will feel the beautiful texture and results, and fall in love with Sisley’s products. I want my customers to feel they are very important and how they can achieve a more beautiful skin with a good homecare routine. I tell them the results they will achieve immediately and how their skin will improve in the coming months when they use the recommended products in the correct way. I always introduce the Sisley facial room, so I can support them to achieve even better results with regular facial

Mashaal Saeed SEPHORA STORE: WESTFIELD PITT ST CITY: SYDNEY, NSW When a client comes in looking to get that flawless finish with just one product, I like to dig in deeper, find those hidden needs and build an understanding with them to help achieve the look that they desire. I explain that the first step to a flawless finish starts with skincare, and without it, the concerns that they have will not be addressed. We then talk about their routines, morning and night, the clients’ habits and how much are they willing to invest. Instead of showing them what they already have I fill in the most essential blanks and show them products that would complement their current routine, address their concerns and will, in time, achieve their vision of perfection. The next and

Rebekah Chen ESTÉE LAUDER STORE: MYER CITY: INDOOROOPILLY, QLD Firstly, I love to share with her my favourite Estée quotes that “Every woman can be beautiful” and “Success depends on daring to act on dreams”. Being a modern woman in a busy life, I believe Mrs Lauder was right. Then I ask her to share with me what her wishes/beauty goals are and how she is managing her beauty routine so far; what she loves about her current products; and her wishes for what the new products could do to achieve her future goals. I thank her for coming in and sharing this with me and then carefully write all of this information on to the Estée Lauder ‘Beautiful Skin For Life’ page that she can keep at the end of our meeting to help with her journey. I then recommend the products that I believe will help her achieve her beauty goals, how she can use her current products that she loves and how to incorporate the products that I recommend into her daily morning and night beauty regimes. I also pamper her on counter with a Mini Facial using the products that I have recommended to her so she can see for herself how the products feel on her skin. To support her on her journey I ask her permission to call her after three days to see how she is going with her new skincare regime, what she loves about it and invite

her back for a service with a complimentary makeover and a free 10-day sample of Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup. I let her know that she has my support in her journey and thank her for the opportunity to share it with me.

BEAUTY & THE BEST

most crucial step is to try these products on. I want my client to experience the products through their senses; textures, scents, and of course visual results. The client is now fully engaged and excited to take these products home! This is a great time to wrap up the consultation and encourage them to come back and share their beautiful results with me, and if they’re willing, we can explore something new!

It helps if customers arrive at the counter already having experienced our products and having previously sampled them for themselves. You Time services (skincare tutorials) provide one-on-one attention which is always well received, and our group sessions (We Time Services) are so much fun. Ladies leave these groups having sampled, touched and felt the products they are about to buy. It’s all about building trust and diminishing confusions before their next counter visit. In short, the more ‘wow’ moments I can supply my customers with, the more eager and empowered they will be on their journey towards ‘gorgeousness’.

Catherine Smith CLINIQUE STORE: DAVID JONES CITY: MARION, SA

Everyone’s skin is unique. As a self-confessed skincare strategist, I can confirm that custom fit is a key component in any skincare consultation. Customers’ skincare concerns are on the rise with increased sensitivity from lifestyle factors and environmental changes – factors which necessitate different approaches towards addressing tailored skincare routines and help with customers’ understanding as to why a particular skincare approach has been chosen. Multimedia diagnostic tools are readily available on all Clinique counters, and whilst customers are encouraged to interact with these we find that face to face interaction with our consultants will lead to a more fulfilling experience. Customers generally feel more respected and connected this way. I find that nothing will garner brand loyalty faster than being able to guide a customer through a tricky and tailored skincare routine whilst coming out the other side having achieved a seemingly impossible skincare goal. When a customer is having a hard time envisioning her expected or desired outcomes, I find that listening to concerns is key, and recapping those concerns is a way of showing respect. I find that if I can get the customer to visualise her end results, both through existing customer testimonials and previous similar personal results, she will become more relaxed and reassured. Agreeing on a realistic timeline for results is obviously very important.

Louise Smoothy MEA STORE: DAVID JONES CITY: BONDI JUNCTION, NSW When I have a client who comes in looking to really change their skin, I first try to determine the most important goal for them. Before I start recommending any products I ask questions about their current routine and lifestyle so that I can suggest a regimen that is achievable and that they will stick with. The one question that I always include is “are you better in the morning or evening with your skincare?” Because there is no point selling them a multi-step morning routine if they are always running for the bus! For this client it’s far better to get them into a nighttime routine and then when they start seeing results and that their skincare goal starts to materialise, then we can work on adding steps in the morning. To make big goals happen I find it’s much more effective to break it up into small achievable changes that slowly turn into new long-term habits. Continued > ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |93

BEAUTY & THE BEST

clients to trust me, feel comfortable when visiting me on counter and be confident in my recommendations when they are at home. I nurture that relationship as I would with a friend, being authentic, genuine and having fun with her is an important part of our service at Clinique.

Kimberley Knight SEPHORA STORE: PACIFIC FAIR CITY: GOLD COAST, QLD

Eloise Gill MEA STORE: INNISFREE CITY: SYDNEY, NSW Often customers who need a long term solution come in to store feeling hopeless, not knowing what to do next. So first of all, I like to assure the customer that everyone has felt just as frustrated about some part of their beauty regime being ineffective. I have seen it all, and yes we can fix it together! I ask the customer “what is your biggest concern?” We then go through her current regime and I tell her what she is doing right (always give praise where it’s due) and what is hindering her. I then suggest a better fit for her and let her touch and look at each product while I tell her about the benefits of long term use. It is so important to emphasise that persistent use over time will help her to attain her goals, and creating this new habit into her daily routine will help her to reach the transformation that she desires. I like to assure the customer that I’m here if they have any questions or concerns during usage, and to come back and see me after approximately six weeks so I can see the results from their hard work. 94| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Becky Slade CLINIQUE STORE: MYER CITY: JOONDALUP, PERTH WA For me, the key to long term skin happiness is teaching simple routines that are cocreated with each individual client. It starts with the connection. Asking key questions and understanding the client’s main concerns and goals allows me to then shape a custom fit routine that will give her the results she is looking for. By educating her along the way about the benefits of each product and the results she will expect to see, rather than overwhelming her with multiple products and no understanding, builds trust in her products but also in me as her advisor. Each step in her daily routine must be explained and demonstrated. I encourage regular checkins, by phone or back at counter, whatever suits her lifestyle. By doing this, together we have created a customised routine she can take ownership of and she has confidence it will allow her to meet her skin goals, however long it takes. Once I make a connection with my clients, we take the journey together and I support them along the way. I want my

To help my client envision her goal, I like to start with a beauty habit or product that is going to give her instant gratification. Not something that will necessarily complete her journey to achieve her goal but can act as a starting point to see hope and belief in what I can offer her. This relates to me a lot with skincare advice. As clients like to compare their skin to mine, asking how to achieve a similar finish, I like to give knowledge and ask questions to open up conversation about their skin and how they currently look after it. Instant gratification with this example can be an enzyme mask or toner that can visibly help with texture, only after a few uses. I then like to sit my client down and create a skincare journey for them to follow and work towards. This may be as simple as adding one or two products to their current regime, or it can even be through a fresh start with products and ingredients my client can introduce into her daily life. The success in seeing results from small changes in life are generally what inspire us to believe in our long-term goals.

2-MINUTES TO TRUE BEAUTY It’s estimated around 60% of women wear makeup; but only 6% use makeup application tools.* What a great sales opportunity for you! Here’s how to help your customers get a look they’ll love. OUR TOP TIPS FOR WHY BRUSHES OR SPONGES?

HOW-TO: START THE DAY BEAUTIFULLY

- Makeup tools are often the difference between the finished look a customer will see in the mirror when a makeup artist does their makeup, versus doing their own (particularly if they apply primer, foundation and concealer products with fingers). Makeup brushes buff and blend products into the skin for a more flawless finish.

1. EVEN: Create an even base with the Angled Foundation brush – gently applying primer, and then foundation.

- When products are applied this way they last longer on the skin; so there’s less need for touch-ups. - Less touch-ups means your customer’s makeup products will last longer too.

2. COVER: Use the Multi-Tasking Blurring brush to buff product into the skin, hiding blemishes. You can also use this brush for eye shadow base application. 3. SHADE: Apply and blend eye colour using the Defined Crease brush using a windscreen wiper-like sweeping motion.

WHY ECOTOOLS? Customers are increasingly seeking products that are natural, sustainable, cruelty-free and vegan. EcoTools pioneered eco, earth-friendly makeup tools over a decade ago – way ahead of the trend curve. EcoTools exists to empower women to look and feel their best, through beauty tools and the plant-friendly materials they are created with. With precision cuts, and the most gentle bristles, EcoTools are recommended and loved by makeup artists and skin care experts.

4. DEFINE: Define the lash line and brows with the Angled Liner. 5. FINISH: Sweep powder or blush onto the face with the Full Blush.

- Using brushes is much more hygienic!

Brushes and sponges do need to be washed regularly for optimum performance. And sponges should be replaced at least every 3 months if they are being used regularly.

Start the Day Beautifully RRP$29.99

ET.AD 0003 - 06.2019

*PPI proprietary research 2018

Cruelty-free

Recycled Materials

Renewable Bamboo

www.ecotools.com.au

100% Vegan

Tree Free Paper

BRAND NEWS

intense Advanced Night Repair to the rescue Iconic Advanced Night Repair launches an Intense Reset Concentrate, a powerful overnight treatment to quickly rescue and reset the look of irritated, stressed skin. It targets skin that has a ‘hissy fit’ when taxed with frequent travel, seasonal changes and major life events. ANR Intense Reset Concentrate - with new Chronolux™ S.O.S. Technology - reduces the look of skin irritation in one hour and immerses skin in 24-hour hydration and advanced anti-oxidants, helping fortify its natural ability to respond and adapt to intense visible stressors. The texture is a velvety gel emulsion boosting skin’s clarity and smoothness while giving a more poreless appearance. Estée Lauder likens it to hitting the reset button to help restore skin to a calmer, healthier looking state. RRP, $120.00. Available at Estée Lauder stockists from 14th July 2019.

VANILLA VIBES FROM JULIETTE HAS A GUN Juliette Has a Gun Vanilla Vibes female fragrance is inspired by the Burning Man electro festival at Black Rock City and Coachella, says the creator Romano Ricci. An Oriental fragrance, interestingly it is the harmonising of two opposites; an aphrodisiac natural Vanilla (the middle note) twisted with Sea Salt atmospheric vibes (the top note). The expression of a sensual, powerful and free femininity…it’s fresh and warm at the same time. 100ml RRP $209.00 available from July at selected David Jones and Myer department stores, and Sephora Sydney, as well as through other niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand.

Rimmel Lasting Radiance Rimmel introduces the revamped Wake Me Up range which is newly named Lasting Radiance, a complete radiance-boosting regime including an anti-pollution foundation with Urban Shield Technology. The 3-step regime is the key to the success of the outcome, as it builds a long-lasting fresh-faced look. Beginning with Radiance Primer - $14.95, then Lasting Finish Foundation - $22.95, available in six shades (pictured, left) and completed with Lasting Finish Concealer - $17.95, available in four shades. The collection is on sale from July 1st at Priceline, Chemist Warehouse and selected pharmacies nationally.

Bourjois Velvet Lippie Bourjois introduces Velvet The Lipstick, a long-lasting lipstick with a beautiful matte finish and intense colour. Designed to help the user achieve a precise pout, Bourjois has designed a high definition guided ‘tear drop’ application mechanism. The lippie formula is enhanced with hydrating waxes, light oils and rich pigments that provide a velvety finish and rich colour that does not dry out. With lips looking smooth and plump, the promise is long wear. There are four shades – seen here is MauveMartre. RRP $24.00, launching on July 1st exclusively to Priceline.

COSTUME NATIONAL J & I Japanese and Italian cultures are the inspiration for the newest fragrance pair from regenerated Costume National. Japan is behind the story for the women’s fragrance, J created by perfumer Fanny Bal, an apprentice of the legendary perfumer, Dominique Ropion. Her perfume has fresh and sparkling head notes reminiscent of the Japanese creativity as well as evoking water. The luminous heart unfolds brightness, gentleness and elegance. The captivating base notes recall the depth of traditions. Italy, especially Tuscany, where Costume National hails from, is the inspiration for the men’s fragrance. It is created by perfumer Julien Rasquinet, who has worked closely in his early career with Pierre Bourdon, also a perfumer of great note. Spicy, opulent head notes, deep enigmatic heart notes of lavender, geranium oil and labdanum, warm to an elegant base of cedary/leathery base. The bottles share a common design and black colour code. Both are 100ml, RRP199.00. Available at David Jones and Myer and perfumeries across Australia and New Zealand.

AMOUAGE PORTRAYAL WOMAN – IT’S A FLORAL Amouage Portrayal Woman is described by Creative Director, Christopher Chong as evoking one’s ability to opt out of an unfulfilling society and adopt rebellion…likened to the Roaring ‘20s and New York in the 1980s. Flamboyant and artistic. Defying the norms. Perfumer Annick Menardo has created a floral fragrance with a smoky yet sweet blend with top notes of “craven, a tobacco note with a dusting of vanilla” says the description. There’s an undertone of tuberose. RRP $449.00, 100ml available exclusively through selected David Jones department stores and other niche perfumeries in Australia and New Zealand. 96| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

BRAND NEWS

Face Halo for the Body Face Halo – the facial makeup removal/cleansing pad that is used solely with water – no product – now has a body buddy. Face Halo BODY has two sides to efficiently exfoliate and polish skin for a smooth, radiant skin. The dual-action mitt features a wet/dry exfoliator to smooth and remove, while the renowned HaloTech polisher reaches deep into pores to cleanse and revitalise. The makers say it’s add-on uses include prepping for a streak-free tan and promoting a natural glow through the gentle daily exfoliating action. Non-toxic and reusable, it is simply washed after each use in the same way as Face Halo. RRP $30.00, available now at www.facehalo.com.au.

Fashion’s Replay…a scent! Escentials Brands launches the fragrances from Replay, the Italian denim brand, into Australia. Replay is a style leader in the fashion and accessories industry with a heritage built over 30 years. The smart casual-wear brand now brings its vast knowledge of fabrics and textile production to build a perfume portfolio. In collaboration with Mavive, Replay launches its first feminine EdT fragrance, Signature Secret. The Replay style has been translated onto the bottle, featuring the iconic Replay design artwork. Designed to remind us of an unspoilt hidden garden, a place where we can lose ourselves in the beauty of nature. Now to the scent. Described as a Floral Fruity of white flowers, vanilla and musk it transports us to that hidden garden. RRP 100ml RRP $59.00. Available now exclusively at Priceline stores, nationally.

DERMALOGICA BANISHES REDNESS Dermalogica Redness Relief Essence (sitting in the UltraCalming range) treats sensitivity-induced redness – without risking further skin irritation. Lightweight like a toner but concentrated like a serum, Redness Relief Essence’s refreshing formula visibly reduces redness right away and helps reduce overall sensitivity by strengthening the skin’s moisture barrier. After cleansing, dispense a small amount into the palms and pat gently over cleansed face, neck and chest. May use twice a day for continuous relief. RRP $64.00 for 150ml, from July 2019 at Dermalogica salons within David Jones.

Jurlique is easy on the eyes Jurlique Herbal Recovery Signature Eye Gel is a supercharged-yet-superfine illuminating eye gel formulated to minimise the appearance of dark circles, fatigue and visible signs of ageing. It is formulated with a trio of pure age-defying botanicals, including the two cornerstones; antioxidantrich Viola extract and rejuvenating Yarrow extract, harvested at Jurlique¹s organic farm in the Adelaide Hills, SA. This pure and powerful pair of botanicals are handpicked when at their peak, maintaining their power to smooth, firm and protect the skin. The lightweight gel sits well under makeup. And the clinicals? Proven to help improve skin elasticity and luminosity on the eye contours in 28 days*, with 79% of customers reporting their skin feeling more nourished and comforted after use*. RRP 15ml, $65.00 at Jurlique stores, leading department stores and selected pharmacies from 30th September 2019. *Based on a clinical study of 52 women over 56 days using Herbal Recovery Signature Eye Gel

BodyPlus Skin Oil BodyPlus Skin Oil is formulated to help keep wrinkles at bay for a youthful-looking skin. Key to the formula is the active ingredient, ceramide, which works to capture and bind moisture to hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and age lines. BodyPlus Skin Oil is also enriched with Vitamin E, which aids in the prevention of dry and flaky skin. Ceramide has long been used as an antiageing agent as it helps repair and rejuvenate the skin’s natural defence barrier to protect the skin and increase moisture retention. Naturally occurring in the outer layer of the skin, ceramide levels decline with age, leaving skin looking tired and dry. Best results achieved when applied twice a day for at least three months. It can be used as an intensive face and body moisturiser, bath oil or after sun treatment. Available at Chemist Warehouse, selected pharmacies or online at www.mcgloins-supertex.com.au at RRP of $19.95.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 |97

BRAND NEWS

ELLA BACHÉ’S 24/7 SUPERFOOD DUO Ella Baché’s Spirulines Firming Day Cream and Spirulines Firming Night Cream is a new pair providing 24/7 moisture protection with age defying effects. Designed to be used as a duo working through the day and overnight, these Spirulina-rich products will boost natural collagen within the skin while protecting against daily environmental pollutants. The result: a visibly smoother, firmer and revitalised complexion. Ella Baché Spirulines Firming Day Cream, 50ml, RRP $125. Ella Baché Spirulines Firming Night Cream, 50ml, RRP $130. Available at David Jones stores from July 22nd.

Peter Thomas Roth Mist Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Hydrating Mist by Peter Thomas Roth is like your own personal humidifier. Says Peter: “It pulls moisture from the atmosphere and locks it in to keep skin hydrated for up to 72 hours. Brilliant!” The lightweight formula moisturises and clarifies skin, helping to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pores for a more youthful-looking complexion. Hyaluronic Acid constantly attracts and retains up to 1,000 times its weight in water from moisture in the air, while Pentavitin® helps provide up to 72 hours of hydration - even after cleansing. Witch Hazel, a natural astringent, helps tone skin and minimise the look of pores. Silk Proteins, Elderberry and a complex of Sodium PCA, Amino Acids, Vitamin B5 and Glycerin work to smooth, moisturise and soothe skin’s appearance. Oil-free, alcohol-free and fragrance-free for all skin types. RRP $54.00 150ml, on counter now at Sephora.

Curl up with John Frieda Frizz Ease John Frieda Frizz Ease Dream Curls range adds Curl Defining Crème, providing a balance of long-lasting softness and hold. It’s a lightweight leave-in cream designed to nourish and tame frizz, while creating touchable hold that lasts. A pea-sized drop is gently worked through the lengths of towel dried hair and left to air-dry or blow-dry. Styleflex™ Technology is a proprietary blend of flexible polymers included in the formula to encourage the curls to spring back into shape time after time. Abyssinian Oil, sourced from the Ethiopian Highlands, is high in omega-9 (erucic acid) to boost shine and hydrate, without adding weight. Available in leading pharmacy and grocery channels from August 2019, RRP $16.99.

Nivea Hyaluron cellular fillers Nivea Hyaluron Cellular Filler Anti-Age range fills wrinkles by stimulating skin cells to produce their own hyaluron and collagen. The new Hyaluron Cellular Filler Ampoules contain 5X more Hyaluron* - the highest concentration of hyaluronic acid within the Nivea range and improve the performance of the Nivea Hyaluron Cellular Filler Day Cream. Each ampoule contains the required amount for one week’s treatment. A pea-sized amount of the light formula is applied in the morning and evening prior to Hyaluron Cellular Filler Day or Night Cream. As Nivea Expert, Robyn Hutch, explains: “Many anti-age creams provide the skin with instant, visible positive changes. However, while they work well daily, often you need an extra boost to provide a lasting effect. The new ampoules contain a concentrated formula with 5X more hyaluron* to plump up the skin while simultaneously stimulating the skin’s own hyaluron and collagen production, to instantly improve the skin.” The 4 Pack - 5ml x four, $39.99 – is available in grocery and other pharmacy stores. The Single Pack - 5ml x one, $12.99 – is available at Chemist Warehouse only. *Than Nivea Hyaluron Cellular Filler Day Cream 98| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA JULY/AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Natio’s Room Scents Natio’s collection of Scented Candles and Reed Diffusers is created to induce relaxation and winding down. Essential oils provide three different mood-boosting and long-lasting scents in both Scented Candles for candlelit ambience, and Reed Diffusers for long-lasting home fragrance. Hand poured in Australia, the candles are made from a premium soy wax blend and have lead-free cotton wicks for a safe and clean burn. With up to 50 hours burn time, the nature inspired scents will create a warm and inviting atmosphere. Reed Diffusers are new to the scented home collection. With natural wooden reeds, the diffusers provide up to six months home fragrance delivered with an Australian made carrier oil base. Happy fragrance notes are pear, vanilla and jasmine. On counter now. Fragrances launching, on 26 July 2019 are Bliss - featuring coconut and frangipani; and Dream – orange and cedarwood. Available from Myer, David Jones and selected pharmacies: Scented Candles 280g (RRP $29.95) Reed Diffusers 150ml (RRP $29.95).

JURLIQUE’S RARE ROSE COLLECTION Jurlique’s Moisture Plus Rare Rose range harnesses the hydrating superpower of the exclusive Jurlique Rose. Through the new collection the complexion will be rehydrated with moisture levels replenished for 24 hours, giving skin a natural radiance all day. Moisture Plus Rare Rose Serum ($75.00, 30ml), Moisture Plus Rare Rose Lotion, Moisture Plus Rare Rose Gel-Cream and Moisture Plus Rare Rose Cream (all $59.00, 50ml) all feature the extract from Jurlique’s unique proprietary Rose which is especially bred for Jurlique by awardwinning growers in South Australia. Extracted it is then encapsulated deep into the core of a natural microcapsule delivery system to deliver clinically proven 24-hour hydration for the first time*. Available July 29th at Jurlique stores, leading department stores and selected pharmacies. *Based on a corneometer study of 21-22 participants using Moisture Plus Rare Rose products, after 24 hours

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