esprit 64 April 2020

Page 1

YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY

ISSUE 64 APR 2020

Twin Disasters Retailers hit with bushfires and coronavirus

The X Factor

THE FORGOTTEN GENERATION IS NOW THE CORE CUSTOMER FOR MANY BRANDS

V is for vanicure

THE EMERGING BEAUTY TREND FOR ‘DOWN THERE’

Interview Benoit Wagner Jurlique managing director, international markets




EDITOR’S LETTER At the time of writing this, I was scheduled to be at the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference and Trade Exhibition (APP2020) on the Gold Coast, along with 6,000 pharmacy owners, managers, retail managers, pharmacy assistants, beauty advisors and company representatives, visiting one of the more than 450 stands at the trade exhibition. esprit had planned to sponsor the Women’s Networking Lunch and part of the Pamper Lounge in the exhibition centre - publisher Nicci and myself had our outfits ready to go for the ‘Nautical but Nice’ themed street party. But in these times, things are not going according to plan - APP2020 did not go ahead. We all know there’s a long war ahead of us and we must adapt as best we can.* Fortunately, the APP did adapt at the eleventh hour - chairman Kos Sclavos said while they worked to confirm new dates for the conference, APP Online would offer as many of the face-to-face sessions, in a digital format, as possible. This meant I was able to watch many of the sessions from my bedroom in Sydney, which is quickly becoming the new norm as Australia - and the world - shuts down. See the full APP Online wrap on page 40. In these times, it’s becoming more evident that technology is helping us to function, work and live with the rapidly changing world - it’s impacting every industry and the way we conduct business. At esprit, we are also adapting by growing our digital and social media channels, with more projects in the pipeline. If you haven’t already, be sure to subscribe to our weekly e-newsletter, delivered directly to your inbox every Wednesday. It features an inside look at the 4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

It’s (not) business as usual latest news, trends, and happenings in the world of beauty retail as well as product launches, competitions and more. Also ensure you like us on Facebook and follow us on LinkedIn, Instagram and Twitter. One of the downfalls of Covid-19 is its timing – it follows a disastrous start to the year. Summer’s bushfires posed threats to our health, our homes, our businesses and even our lives. But in these times of crisis, communities rallied to support each other. See what our beauty advisors had to say about the impact of little acts of kindness coming through in these hard times, after being hit with twin disasters, on page 92. APP2020 was just one of countless global conferences and expos postponed this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic (check out our events section online for the latest updates and date changes) but on the upside, two inaugural expos did take place in Sydney and received tremendously positive feedback from the industry. The Show Sydney, the brainchild of Eliza Campagna and Scott Lattimer, provided a platform to celebrate the best in beauty, makeup, hair and wellbeing from around the world at the ICC. See the full wrap on page 50. Meanwhile, The Green Edit, a beauty expo founded by organic makeup artist Cathy Tolpigin and dedicated to health and wellness, took place before social distancing and restrictions on gatherings were put in place. See more on page 42. Despite the currrent climate, exciting things are still happening in the industry, like the launch of Fuchsia Brands. Check out our interview with co-founder Ali Shoraka on page 31. This issue, we have a section dedicated to women’s health – if you don’t yet know what a ‘vanicure’ is, you must read page 60 where we catch up with two savvy business owners changing the face of women’s beauty and capturing the market for the area ‘down there’.

A company way ahead of its time and pioneers of the natural skincare movement, Jurlique has been sourcing its ingredient from its 100-acre certified organic farm to create pure and powerful natural skin care for more than 30 years. Without travel restrictions in place in February, I was fortunate enough to visit the Jurlique farm and experience firsthand their seed to skin philosophy in the gorgeous Adelaide Hills. See page 66. Many beauty companies have been so busy chasing Millennials, they have dropped the marketing ball with some of their more loyal customers, like Gen X, who are at the height of their earning power, wealth and influence. Elisabeth King reports on what are the core customers for many leading brands in a special, six-page Talking Point spread on page 20. Finally, we catch up with not one, but two gorgeous Aussie icons – Delta Goodrem and Miranda Kerr – to see what the beauty business moguls have in store for 2020. Check out pages 28 and 48 respectively. As the impact of Covid-19 unfolds on our health, the economy and the world, I hope you all stay safe and stay well. Please free to drop me a line via email about what’s happening with you, your company, brand, shop, place of work or anything else at michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au. *At the time of going to print, our office is still open, as are schools and daycares. Places like pubs, indoor sporting venues and churches are closed. New social distancing measures are being unveiled regularly.

FOLLOW US: @espritmagazine Facebook.com/EspritMagazineAustralia


$0 Merchant Terminal rental fee for 6 months. That’ll save your business dough. CommBank Merchant Terminal

Things you should know. Eligibility criteria applies. Consider the terms & conditions and other fees and charges at commbank.com.au/merchantterminal The offer is valid until 30/06/2020. As this advice has been prepared without considering your objectives, financial situation or needs, you should, before acting on the advice, consider its appropriateness to your circumstances. Commonwealth Bank of Australia ABN 48 123 123 124 AFSL 234945.


YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY

ISSUE 64 APR 2020

issue

64

Contents Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more.

Interview – Benoit Wagner Jurlique managing director, international markets

www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

The X Factor THE FORGOTTEN GENERATION IS NOW THE CORE CUSTOMER FOR MANY BRANDS

V is for vanicure

THE EMERGING BEAUTY TREND FOR ‘DOWN THERE’

Twin Disasters Retailers hit with bushfires and coronavirus

EspritMagazineAustralia

1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits Chemcorp’s 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits are ranked number one in the category in Australia and have taken on competition from around the world for 28 years. A remarkable feat considering the research, new technology and ingredients that have electrified the beauty market since the early 90s. The brand has also evolved from packaging design to product expansion, including root cover up, hair mascara and colour sticks. This year, 100Hour is unveiling a new logo and pack design and will launch exciting new products over the next few months. Find out more on pages 10 and 11.

@espritmagazine

Previous issues

4

Editor’s letter

8 Contributors

66 From Seed to Skin – Jurlique

10 Cover Story - Chemcorp

70 Out and About

12 Trend – Skin Deeper

74 R aising the Clean Beauty Bar – Biossance

16 I nterview – Jurlique’s Benoit Wagner

Contact details esprit Magazine Australia Editor At Large and Magazine Founder Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Publisher and Commercial Manager Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au NEW MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 Issue 64: ISSN 1449-8018

64 Mother’s Day Gift Guide

76 Buyers Lists – Sephora

20 T alking Point – Marketing to Gen X

78 M y Journey – Christiaan Hobson, L’Oréal

28 5 Minutes with Delta Goodrem

80 Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker

30 Introduction to Fuchsia Brands

82 Economic Powerhouse – Accord

32 W hat’s Your Plan B? Bahar Etminan

84 Online Shopping – Emily Bencic

36 L ight at the End of the Tale – Andrea Ferrari 40 APP Online wrap

86 Aussie Made – Yasmin Border 88 7 Tips to a Flawless Base – Ross Andrewartha

42 The Green Edit wrap

90 B eauty Waste Management – Icy Ling

44 Industry News

92 Beauty and the Best

50 The Show Sydney wrap

94 T echniques for the Ages – Michael Brown

54 Maxin’ relaxin’ – Olivia Ferrari 56 Hormones and Hair Loss 60 V is for Vanicure

96 Brand News 98 Have You Met... Jemma McBride

62 L GFB – Celebrating 30 years of Confidence

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.


©2020 Clinique Laboratories, LLC

New.

Double down to disrupt dark spots. -39%* visible reduction over time. 24h** flawless coverage instantly.

Our newest, most powerful brightening serum helps correct appearance of discolouration and blemish scars, while interrupting future dark spots with CL302 Equalizer Technology. Add Even Better™ foundation to cover instantly and keep reducing the appearance of dark spots over 12 weeks.*** It’s makeup powered by skin care—in 42 shades Even Better Clinical™ Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter. From $79.00.^ Even Better™ Makeup SPF 15. $55.00.^ Testing conducted on 52 women after using serum for 12 weeks. Testing conducted on 14 women after using the foundation for 24 hours Testing conducted on 22 women after using the foundation for 12 weeks ^ Recommended retail price *

**

***

Allergy tested. Formulated without parabens, phthalates, fragrance. Just happy skin.


Contributors

Editor At Large

Magazine Founder

ANDREA FERRARI One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 - peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded esprit Magazine Australia in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.

Associate Editor

Business Features

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory. com.au.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’. After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.

EMILY BENCIC As deputy editor of Appliance Retailer and editor of Retailbiz within the Intermedia Group, Emily has more than five years of experience writing about the local and global retail industry, as well as the appliance and technology sectors, covering the latest news from big brand retailers.

BAHAR ETMINAN Business innovator, beauty insider, author, speaker, and branding expert, Bahar Etminan is an ideas woman. In past lives Bahar has been a CEO (of cosmetics industry powerhouse Brandmakers), the general manager of luxury importer BMI and the youngest ever general manager at Bobbi Brown and Origins in Australia. She launched Australia’s first distributor-owned beauty e-tailer, rescu.com.au. which has evolved into a publishing powerhouse, putting expertise from the best minds in beauty, lifestyle, fashion, wellbeing, career and finance at your fingertips. She also managed to find time to write a book, Rescu Me! A Makeover Guide for the Life More Fabulous and create an online beauty education platform www.RescuMeAcademy.com.

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.

MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.

ROSS ANDREWARTHA Ross Andrewartha was practically born with a makeup brush in his hand. The flamboyant Brit experimented with makeup from an early age, forfeiting a university degree to take up a full-time position with MAC Cosmetics on the shop floor as a retail artist. From there he quickly progressed, with stints at Coty Prestige as national training manager and Illamasqua as global training manager. More recently, Ross was director of artistry and education for Yves Saint Laurent and he is currently Chadstone’s official Beauty Insider.


FROM THE NIGHTTIME SKINCARE EXPERT:

Unlock the beauty of night. New Revitalizing Supreme+ Night Wake up looking radiant, morning after morning.

Tonight, indulge in this rich, ultra-nourishing multi-action creme. Firms and significantly reduces the look of lines while you sleep. REVITALIZE with 2X concentrated Moringa Extract. It helps skin boost natural collagen. NOURISH with a 2X super-dose of Hyaluronic Acid for intense, 24-hour hydration. REAWAKEN a fresh morning glow with Sea Lavender Flower Extract.

© 2019 Estée Lauder Inc.

NEW

esteelauder.com.au


Test of time

NEW PACK DESIGN AND CONTINUED GROWTH FOR MARKET-LEADING 1000HOUR by Elisabeth King When a brand has a devoted fan base that spans two generations and more, it qualifies for cult superstar status. 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits are ranked number one in the category in Australia and have taken on competition from around the world for 28 years. A remarkable feat considering the research, new technology and ingredients that have electrified the beauty market since the early 90s. 1000Hour has also evolved from packaging design to product expansion, including root cover up, hair mascara and colour sticks. This year, the brand is unveiling a new logo and pack design and will launch exciting new products over the next few months. CONTINUED SUCCESS AND SUBSTANTIAL GROWTH

John Fisher, founder of Chemcorp International, the Sydneybased company which operates across some of the fastest-growing categories in professional and consumer beauty and personal care from nails to brushes, is proud of the fact that 1000Hour remains the market leader in at-home lash and brow dye kits. “When we launched the brand in 1992, most eyelash products came from Europe or were only 50 per cent Australian-made at most,” he said. “I came up with the name 1000Hour because it refers to the sixweek period for lashes to replace themselves. Priceline became our first major retailer and they have stocked 1000Hour ever since.” John said there wasn’t a designated space for eyelashes back then, so the lash and dye kits were put in the hair colour section. “Our original hero product has been one of Priceline’s top products for a single SKU for years,” he said. “We have seen off a host of competitors because we built up an extremely loyal 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

following. Sales have enjoyed substantial growth over the past 12 months, and following our launch on Amazon in the US, we have logged over 1000 reviews.” HUGE FOCUS ON BROWS

The huge focus on eyebrows over the past few years has fast-tracked growth further, said Jodie Phillips, general manager of Chemcorp. “Customers are relying on 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits for a multitude of reasons. As women’s roles have changed over the past 20 years, cost and timesaving have become even more important. Instead of booking expensive services at salons, they prefer to dye their brow and lashes at home. 1000Hour is a 3-step system that is effective and easy to use and very economical. Customers access 12 applications of no-smudge, permanent colour in a range of shades for less than $20. That’s 12 months supply.” 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits have cross-generational appeal and not only because they have been a market leader for so long, says Phillips. “It’s a product that women can use all their lives. Teenagers looking for bolder brows are huge fan, as are older women who are trying to hide pesky greys. We have colours across the spectrum in the core formula from natural black through dark brown, brown/black and blue/black.” But we can’t afford to be complacent, says Fisher. “A lot of brands have come and gone in the Australian market, but they keep on coming. Many are premium European products and even South African brands have tried to get a foothold. Generally, they last for six months to a year. The competition keeps us on our toes and we have enhanced the Lash & Brow Dye kit several times from updating


COVER STORY

We identified that shoppers in supermarkets are looking for small indulgences and there has been a strong crossover in best-in-class cosmetic products in supermarkets.

the applicators to ensuring that customers don’t encounter problems, particularly on the under eye. Our customers are so passionate about the product that we listen to their feedback.” NATURAL EVOLUTION AND AMBASSADOR POWER

A key example of moving with the times and consumer beliefs was the introduction of a gentle, plant extract brush-on formula in three colours - light, medium and dark brown. “They are perfect for women who can’t use peroxide-based products or who have sensitive skin,” notes Phillips. Cultural transmission is a powerful force in beauty, which is why many of the leading global players such as L’Oréal, Coty and Estee Lauder are more than 70 years old. Tegan Martin, the TV presenter and former Miss Universe Australia, has been the official ambassador for 1000Hour for the past five years, says Fisher. “She was perfect for the brand because the Lash & Brow kit is often recommended by mother to daughters and even grandmothers. Tegan has been using the product since she was a teenager and enjoyed special pampering afternoons with her mother, Cherie, dyeing each other’s lashes and brows”. Tegan is also fun and down-to-earth, in addition to being glamorous, and has a large social media following, says Phillips. “In 2017, to celebrate our 25th anniversary, Cherie joined Tegan as an ambassador for 1000Hour. She said yes straightaway because she had been using the product for as long as she could remember. It was a partnership that embraces the first users and loyalists of the brand, as well as the next generation of beauty lovers.”

this time, as the brand became more broadly known.” Today’s consumers are also looking for education and interaction on social media. 1000Hour has its own dedicated website - 1000hour.com.au - which offers product information, video tutorials and a blog to update customers on the latest technologies and beauty trends. “We have used Tegan in the videos and they have proved popular,” Phillips said. “We believe that 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits are unique in the marketplace. That’s why it continues to perform strongly in the pharmacy channel and competitive chains like Priceline and Chemist Warehouse. Not only has it stood the test of time, there are no signs of stopping.” www.1000hour.com.au www.chemcorp.com.au

WIDE DISTRIBUTION AND CONTINUING EDUCATION

Chemcorp’s entrepreneurial outlook and first-to-market approach has built up a strong position for Australian brands such as 1000Hour and international ones such as EcoTools and Real Techniques. 1000Hour has a wide distribution and key retail partners include Priceline, Coles, Woolworths, BIG W, Chemist Warehouse and Terry White Chemmart. “We also have distribution in oversea markets,” Fisher said. “About eight years ago we broadened our distribution base, expanding the brand into the grocery channel. Our pharmacy business continued to increase during ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |11


SKIN DEEPER

Dermocosmetics, expert-led and microbiome skincare put beauty and health in a convergence zone. by Elisabeth King Some trends are momentary, while others have a slower build and longer-lasting momentum. In skincare, dermo-cosmetics, expert-inspired brands, probiotics and taking cues from the skin’s microbiome have all shown rapid growth as consumers worldwide seek prevention over cure products and minimalism. A key indication that a trend isn’t a flashin-the-pan is when some of the world’s biggest cosmetic and beauty players invest heavily in a category. Three years ago, L’Oréal acquired the US skincare brands, CeraVe, AcneFree and Ambi, from Valeant for US$1.3 billion to expand its footprint in dermo-cosmetics and near professionalgrade skincare. L Catterton, the private equity firm majority-owned by LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, has taken a minority stake in Tula, the American probiotic skincare brand. In January this year, For The Biome, whose founders sold their New Chapter supplement company to Procter & Gamble in 2012, secured major funding from JH Capital 12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

to springboard its 100 percent bio-active Sentient Skincare range. In another landmark move, L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator, the progenitor of such breakthrough products as the La Roche-Posay My UV patch, has partnered with uBiome, the world’s largest data base of human microbiomes, to accelerate product development centred on the skin’s bacterial eco-system to meet the increased demand for personalised skincare. MILLENNIALS, PROFITS AND NUTRICOSMETICS L’Oréal already has major chops in the dermo-cosmetics category. The multinational’s Active Cosmetics division, including the La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals and Vichy brands, has been enjoying double-digit growth for some years. A global sales rise of 14.2 per cent in the third quarter of FY2019 alone delivered revenues of US$671.63 million. Other French companies, including Pierre Fabre with Avene, have long been important pillars of the sector and the future looks even more golden as new opportunities worldwide present themselves.

According to Euromonitor International’s 2019 report - Skin Health: The Evolving Landscape of Dermo-Cosmetics - many consumers have shifted from a beautyoriented approach to an increased emphasis on skin health. Pinpointed by close to 60 per cent of consumers, in-demand skincare benefits include moisturising/hydrating properties, products with sensitive skin claims, added vitamins and improved texture and skin tone benefits. The healthy skin switch is increasingly being driven by Millennials as the oldest cohort approaches the age of 40. The ultimate aim is to keep the skin as healthy and balanced as possible to bypass the longer term need for anti-ageing products. Dermo-cosmetics can also act as a bridgehead for nutricosmetics and beauty-from-within supplements. In spite of the huge media exposure for on-trend ingredients such as collagen and their presence in major supermarket chains and pharmacies in Australia, sales of beauty dietary supplements remain very focused on Asia. The dietary supplement market in Europe and North America is mainly


THE RISE OF ASIA Dermo-cosmetics brands are also in demand because of common skin issues worldwide. Skin sensitivity has spiked, especially in Asia, where pollution and humidity exacerbate the problem. Eczema is the world’s most common skin condition, affecting 3 per cent of adults globally. Psoriasis, another widespread problem is suffered by 125 million people around the world. China, in particular, has been fuelling the growth in dermo-cosmetics to treat sensitivity and other skin concerns. Traditionally, the Chinese have attributed skin sensitivity to poor diet, pollution and hormonal issues, changing their lifestyle, exercise and food habits to improve their skin. A large percentage of Chinese consumers have only recently started to use topical products to relieve sensitivity and eczema. According to Denise Lee, regional client consultant for Euromonitor International, brands that recognised the shift in consumer preferences early, in Asia and globally, are ahead of the game. “While sensitive skin is not a new consumer need in the dermo-cosmetic space, products that claim suitability for sensitive skin are becoming more specific. For example, some products are claiming to reduce redness and, more specifically, alleviate rosacea,” she adds. Skin sensitivity is also a growing concern for 56 per cent of Japanese women. But Southeast Asia is also a hotspot for dermo-cosmetics which are enjoying annual double-digit growth in Vietnam, the Philippines and Malaysia. Sales of dermocosmetics in the Asia/Pacific region are expected to reach US$9.5 billion by 2023 10 per cent of the overall skincare market. Dermo-cosmetic brands in Western markets and Asia are also riffing off the clean beauty, in addition to their therapeutic appeal. They may have evolved as a supplement to medical

recommendations or as follow-up products, but today one of their major roles is to prevent damage occurring in the first place. An attribute that crosses into suncare. La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios range, for example, offers some of the most effective sunscreens on the market. MULTINATIONALS BACK EXPERT-LED SHIFT Consumers around the world are also increasingly looking for OTC skincare that mimics dermatology-strength products. Socalled doctor brands date back decades and Clinique, the Estée Lauder super brand founded in the 1960s, bills itself as the first dermatology-backed brand. Rodan + Fields, founded by US celebrity derms, Dr Katie Rodan and Dr Kathy Fields, has been voted the number one skincare brand in the US for the past few years because of its near-prescription level products. L’Oréal acquired SkinCeuticals, the US clinic brand, in 2005 and two years ago started a global campaign to increase the availability of the brand beyond its home turf. Unilever also acquired two dermatology-based brands, Dermalogica and Dr Murad, to anchor its prestige division which is on track to deliver more than US$1 billion in sales. Just a few of the many near-prescription brands flowing out of the US, Europe, South Korea and Japan. MAJOR INVESTMENT IN MICROBIOME R&D Few sectors have grabbed more industry attention in recent years than microbiome/ beauty skincare. According to recent research from Givaudan, the world’s largest company in the fragrances and flavours category, 69 per cent of consumers worldwide are aware of micro-organisms living on their skin and 70 per cent associate microbiome products with health and wellness. Skin microbiome products are one of the fastest-growing trends in the beauty industry, says Matthias Fleury, category manager of Givaudan Active Beauty. “Balancing the skin’s microbiome is essential to get a healthy and beautiful skin.” Yet in spite of the high awareness, the microbiome beauty category is still in its infancy. Many giants of the personal care industry are engaged in research. Johnson & Johnson, for example, has been using a re-engineered bacteria to

TREND REPORT

health-focused with beauty-positioned supplements accounting for only 6 per cent of the market. By co-branding with a dynamic dermo-cosmetics brand, beautyfrom-within supplements can become part of an extended skincare routine and spark increased growth. Unilever-owned Dr Murad and French luxury brand, Caudalie, have both followed this tandem route successfully.

develop treatment products for acne, psoriasis, dermatitis and eczema. German titan Bayer is developing new products with strains of staphylococcus epidermis, a normal part of skin flora. Unilever Ventures, the multinational’s investment arm, has taken a minority stake in British indie, Gallinee, one of the first brands to enter the microbiome beauty space. While US brand, Mother Dirt, launched the first product containing AOB, or ammoniaoxidising bacteria. As the microbiome is increasingly viewed as a normal part of life in the same way as the metabolism, one of the biggest trends in microbiome beauty centres on probiotics. According to Mintel, 60 per cent of consumers are convinced of the positive effects of probiotics on health. A hefty 41 per cent of Millennials in the US have ingested probiotics and 45 per cent are interested in trying probiotics for facial skincare, says the global researcher. There is also significant interest from Gen Xers and Baby Boomers. There’s been a flood of research linked to probiotic-infused skincare. Major brands have entered the space with products such as La Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturising Cream and Aveeno Eczema Therapy Daily Moisturising Cream with prebiotic oat. Other contenders include Lancôme’s global bestseller, Génifique Youth Activating Serum, Elizabeth Arden Superstart Probiotic Boost Skin Renewal Biocellulose Mask and Mother Dirt AO+ Mist. Another signal that microbiome beauty has a glittering future is the latest launch from AmorePacific, one of South Korea’s two largest beauty and personal care giants. The company has plenty of brands for younger consumers, including Innisfree and Laneige, but has filled a gap in the market with SOON+, its first skincare brand focused on probiotics and the microbiome. Containing an ingredient derived from kimchi, the Korean national side dish based on fermented vegetables, the brand’s products are high in probiotics and its development is attributed to the rise of sensitive skin concerns in Korea. AmorePacific plans to launch the brand in China in the near future to capitalise on microbiome, dermo-cosmetic and clean beauty trends.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |13


FL AWLESS FINISH. EVERY TIME . AUTO PILOT PRIMER COLLECTION

Formulated to help makeup sync flawlessly with your skin and create a smooth foundation landing. Find your primer solution.

NAPOLEONPERDIS.COM



INTERVIEW

REIGNING SUPREME esprit talks global expansion, innovation and clean beauty with Jurlique’s managing director for international markets Benoit Wagner. by Elisabeth King Jurlique is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year with big plans for the future. Since the mid-2000s the company has morphed into a global skincare player, fast-tracked by strong growth in key regional markets, particularly Asia. Pola Orbis, the fourth largest cosmetic company in Japan, acquired the Australian natural beauty pioneer for US$300 million in 2012 and two of the major reasons for the buyout were the brand’s strong presence in China and travel retail. Jurlique’s eco-luxe positioning, backed by its famed seedto-skin philosophy, has never been more relevant, says Jurlique’s managing director for international markets Benoit Wagner. Hong Kong-based Wagner joined Jurlique two years ago, tasked with furthering the company’s reach in new markets in Asia and the US. A graduate of the Paris School of Business, the Frenchman took on his current global role 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

in December 2018. Over the past 20 years, he has accumulated extensive experience in both the fashion and beauty sectors. Most of his executive positions have centred on the Asia-Pacific region - South Korea, Thailand and Hong Kong - working for such storied brands as Christian Dior, Sephora, Givenchy and Sisley, the French luxury skincare brand, where his responsibilities were largely focused on travel retail. TRAVEL RETAIL AND SUSTAINABILITY FOCUS Last November, Wagner attended TFWA (Tax Free World Exhibition & Conference) in Cannes with Pola Orbis vice-president, Naoki Kume. The delegation marked the first time the Japanese multinational had attended the event. Global travel retail is growing strongly, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region and the company is looking to expand in the sector with its four

strongest skincare brands - Jurlique, Pola, Orbis and Three. The global landscape might be a little unpredictable at the moment, but we are re-positioning Jurlique and re-vamping the brand, says Wagner. “There is plenty of interest in Jurlique’s unique origins, values and seed-to-skin naturalness. We have always been at the forefront of the natural skincare category, but we have to re-explain to consumers that we offer much more and are biodynamic, vegan and sustainable.” Wagner believes that the time is right to propel Jurlique to super brand status and push its credentials as the cleanest beauty brand in the world. “We have complete control over our supply chain from our certified organic farm in South Australia. The sustainability trend in beauty is here to stay and I can only see it accelerating. In Europe there is increasing demand for biodynamic beauty and more so in North America with the clean beauty trend.”


INTERVIEW HUGE POTENTIAL IN EUROPE, ASIA AND THE US Wagner recently visited Russia and Poland - two markets which are also very interested in biodynamic skincare. “I spoke to a major distributor and I believe that Jurlique has huge potential in major European markets such as Germany, France, the UK and Scandinavia. European, Asian, North American and Australian consumers are seeking out authentic brands. We have always believed in our founding values which revolve around sustainability, social commitment and giving back to the earth.” The centre of growth in the global beauty industry is Asia and we have been operating in China since 2009, says Wagner. “At the end of 2019, we took over 45 POS counters in China and we have a flagship store on Alibaba’s Tmall. We can communicate directly with Chinese customers, who are also very interested in natural skincare and anti-ageing as well. Travel retail has a big share of the market and is one of the top five channels for Jurlique. Our main areas of focus are China, Australia, Hong Kong and Japan in the channel and the core customer of Asian travel retail is Chinese - accounting for 50 per cent of the market.” Wagner also believes that that the global well-being trend is key to the future of Jurlique. “Beauty is a way of life today. People want to look and feel good on the outside and the inside. Every time I go into a Jurlique store, I can smell the aromatherapy benefits of our products. We have also put a lot of effort into becoming known as a spa brand in the US to tie in with the fastgrowing well-being and health market.”

POLA ORBIS TECHNOLOGY AND THE NEW NUTRI-DEFINE SUPREME RANGE J-Beauty, as the Japanese cosmetics industry has been dubbed, is more popular than ever and being owned by Pola Orbis is a huge advantage, says Wagner. “Our parent company is a market leader in R&D. When Nutri-Define, a trio of anti-ageing day and night creams and a serum, launched in 2014, it was a very important development for Jurlique from a scientific perspective and strongly supported by Pola Orbis. More expensive and more innovative than anything we had done before, consumers all over the world looked at Jurlique in a new way.” In January this year, Jurlique relaunched Nutri-Define as Nutri-Define Supreme (above). There are six products in the new lineup - Nutri-Define Supreme Cleansing Foam, Restorative Light Cream (not pictured), Restorative Rich Cream, Conditioning Lotion, Rejuvenating Serum and Eye Contour Balm. The two hero ingredients are spilanthes flower and horseradish root extract. Ulrike Klein, one of the founders of Jurlique, discovered the spilanthes flower in South America, says Wagner. “But Pola Orbis did extensive research on the flower and seeds to uncovers its major properties, including the ability to increase collagen production in the skin. We harvest the spilanthes flowers on the farm only on days when the moon passes through the air and light signs of the zodiac - Libra, Gemini and Aquarius - to capture their full biodynamic effects. The power of the flower combined with our Biosome6 technology, makes the Nutri-Define Supreme range is even more effective in rejuvenating the skin.”

NEW GENERATION OF CUSTOMERS Jurlique has built up a very loyal customer base, but we are reaching out to a new generation who rate sustainability, organics and ethics more highly than their predecessors, says Wagner. “I have two teenage daughters, aged 14 and 16, and the Jurlique story is very compelling to them. This attitude is truly global with younger consumers in all of the major regional markets.” Leveraging its online presence has been a major goal for Jurlique for more than a decade. “I don’t believe that sales should be 100 per cent online or offline,” says Wagner. “China is the second largest online market in the world and is very specific. Between 34 and 40 per cent of sales are online in the Chinese market and this will increase. We are strong in tier 1 and tier 2 cities and online sales help us to reach tier 3 cities and beyond. E-commerce also allows us to learn about the wants and needs of our customers and we are seeing that many of our Chinese clients are placing great importance on well-being.” Wagner worked for Sisley, the luxury French skincare brand also renowned for its natural ingredients, for 10 years. “I learned so much about the efficacy of naturallybased skincare. Also the importance of quality, focus and the difference it can offer. Jurlique has a good business in body care - about 45 per cent - but our major focus going forward is the face, which currently accounts for 55 per cent of our business. Our original Nutri-Define range has been a success, especially in China, Hong Kong and Australia. The new Supreme range will build on that legacy to become a hero range in the global skincare market.” www.jurlique.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |17




The

X Factor The forgotten generation is now the core customer for many brands. by Elisabeth King Julia Roberts is a key ambassador for Lancôme.

Many beauty companies have been so busy chasing Millennials, they have dropped the marketing ball with some of their more loyal customers. Yet Gen X, born between 1965 and 1980 and aged 40 to 55, are the core customers for many leading brands. There are now more Gen Xers than Baby Boomers and they constitute 23.5 per cent of the Australian population. More importantly, Gen Xers are at the height of their earning power, wealth and influence and many brands are expanding their efforts, in terms of products and communication, to appeal to existing customers and attract new ones. The strategy also has an eye to the future as the oldest cohort of Millennials turn 40 this year. STRONG FOCUS FOR L’ORÉAL As the world’s largest beauty company, L’Oréal has long pursued R&D strategies and marketing that appeal to the over-40s. 20| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Emma Williamson DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE, L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA

Joanne Norton, CONSUMER INSIGHTS DIRECTOR, L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA

Director of customer experience Emma Williamson and consumer insights director Joanne Norton, who form the core of L’Oréal Australia’s Consumer Insights Team, confirm that Gen X consumers are becoming even more important because they represent such a large part of the Australian population and the sheer value of their spending dollars is driving growth within the domestic beauty category. “We have a well-established consumer

connect program that spends more time with Gen X consumers in their homes and we go shopping with them to understand how they make their choices, shopper behaviours and preferences. An in-depth approach that helps us better tailor products and beauty experiences that are suitable for them and highlight emerging trends within the beauty consumer community,” they note. L’Oréal also recognise that opportunities to trial and play with products and test makeup shades is as important a process with Gen X customers as it is to younger consumers. “They are most attracted to multi-sense experiences that invite them to make an informed choice and experience the efficacy for themselves. We call this the ‘prove it to me’ theory. This attitude is different to Gen Y and Gen Z consumers, who are all about using beauty as a tool for self-expression through creating different looks, trialing new techniques and making a statement through the companies and brands they align with.”


PREMIUM SKINCARE TARGETS AND DATA-ORIENTED Estée Lauder Companies are very dataoriented and consumer insights are at the heart of everything we do, says Alexandra Operto, marketing manager, Estée Lauder & Aerin Beauty Australia.

Alexandra Operto MARKETING MANAGER, ESTÉE LAUDER & AERIN BEAUTY AUSTRALIA “Having the right ambassadors globally and locally is important. We currently have Pip Edwards, the Australian fashion designer and co-founder of PE Nation, as an ambassador in the Gen X category and we work with her to actively create content to appeal to this demographic.” Within the Gen X bracket there are lots of consumers seeking different benefits, depending on their needs, concerns and preferences. “Demographic trends that impact R&D are the needs of the skin as it ages, as well as adapting to diverse

TALKING POINT

Media also plays a role in how we appeal to Generation X, reveal Williamson and Norton. “They straddle both digital and traditional media. They are more likely to be influenced by traditional advertising because they were heavily influenced by TV and print media while they were growing up and are less cynical about traditional ways of marketing products. Gen X was also one of the first generations to embrace social platforms such as Facebook during the first digital revolution. They are still the most likely generation to be responsive to Facebook advertising of specific products.” L’Oréal has an edge with Gen X consumers as the parent company of many of the most recognisable and trusted beauty brands. “Gen X consumers have used our products from an early age. For example, it’s not uncommon for us to hear in consumer connect sessions that Maybelline Great Lash Mascara was the first mascara they had tried - sometimes borrowed from their mum - and they are still loyal to the brand today,” add Williamson and Norton. The use of older spokesmodels in L’Oréal promotions isn’t just about age. “Our spokesmodels aren’t engaged simply because of their looks. They are aspirational to the consumer because they are successful in their chosen fields, respected in the community and are far from being viewed as ‘old’. Like Gen X and Baby Boomer consumers themselves, they are just coming in to their own and are definitely not seen as has-beens.”

environmental changes. Both factors have led to the development of global products. For example, within the consumer base who are seeking anti-ageing benefits we have different profiles. Some want prevention, others are looking for repair, to fight dehydration or focus on loss of firmness. Estée Lauder’s philosophy is to bring the latest innovations in skincare science to our customers as quickly as possible.” Gen X constitute the largest percentage of buyers for the Lancôme brand, says Maria Avis, national training manager, L’Oréal Luxe.

Maria Avis NATIONAL TRAINING MANAGER, L’ORÉAL LUXE

“Our key ambassador, Julia Roberts, is a Gen Xer and the women who shop with Lancôme truly identify with her. Kate Winslet and Penelope Cruz, other global faces of the brand, are also from the Gen X demographic. A strategy that makes beauty more achievable to the age group, rather than looking at models in their 20s representing anti-ageing products.” A leading characteristic of Gen X consumers is that they like to know about key ingredients, says Avis. “Our BAs are trained to discuss this with all customers, but when engaging with Gen X customers in a skincare, makeup or fragrance consultation, additional ingredients and benefits are often required. Gen Xers are also more inclined to sit down for a consultation than Millennials, so discussing their lifestyle and skincare options is often a more comfortable experience.” The Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Lift Skincare range and the Absolue skincare lineup are particularly loved by Gen Xers, says Avis. “The fact that our ambassadors are getting older yet looking younger certainly helps to attract the over-40s to

the brand. We are releasing more Absolue products this year, including ampoules that target ageing at an accelerated rate. We are also re-introducing Absolue Foundation to appeal to Gen X customers. It is a premium anti-ageing formula rather than the long wear matte formula preferred by Millennials.” CUSTOMISED APPROACH AND THE REAL WOMEN INFLUENCE Gen X is a very important part of our consumer base and one of our biggest age categories, says Christina Chou, national marketing and omni manager, Clinique.

Christina Chou NATIONAL MARKETING AND OMNI MANAGER, CLINIQUE

“As part of our future strategies, Clinique will definitely continue to nurture and retain the demographic through specific CRM strategies and customised offerings and services. For example, our BAs deepen connections by spending time with clients to uncover their skincare goals and provide them with solutions by means of the Clinique diagnostic questions and consultations. Every customer is offered customised skincare and makeup routines. To appeal to Gen X customers, Clinique engages with influencers across Instagram and YouTube to achieve cut-through and emotional connection, complementing the strategy with traditional advertising where relevant, says Chou. “They like to seek genuine product reviews and testimonials ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |21


Gen Xers feel close to the celebrities who have marked their generation and who continue to evolve...

Gen X celebs like Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani have helped to shift the definition of ageing, says Avène’s Olivia Harland.

before they try or even purchase, so this is an important part of the strategy. This generation is also very much about moneycan’t-buy experiences, so participating in eventing or pop-up opportunities also help to engage and recruit the Gen X audience.” Since the brand’s launch in 1968, Clinique has always been focused on customised skincare that caters to all skin types and concerns, says Chou. “For Gen X we have a range of de-ageing products such as our best-selling Clinique Smart Custom-Repair lineup. Clinique Smart Clinical MD Multi-Dimensional Age Transform Resculpt and Revolumize are new additions to our portfolio. Both products feature a new morphotechnology and specific ingredients to rejuvenate facial morphology.” Gen X are established in their careers, lifestyle and appreciation of self-care, says Ai San Beaumont, marketing and communications director ANZ for La Prairie. 22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Ai San Beaumont MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR ANZ FOR LA PRAIRIE “They are an essential and loyal segment and make up a substantial proportion of La Prairie’s client base. While we don’t execute initiatives based on age segments, we are aware that a large proportion of our clients come to the brand when they reach this age group because they value quality over quantity.” La Prairie is noted for its attention to consistency, excellent service and the brand’s BAs are trained to build genuine connections and rapport with clients of all ages, says Beaumont. “In order to best cater for our clients, we ensure that our BAs are highly diverse. A high percentage of our workforce is in the Gen X age group.” Authentic voices rather than influencers with a large social media presence resonate

more with La Prairie’s customers, says Beaumont. “For this reason, we work with many industry leaders and influential people. Our luxury collections such as Skin Caviar and White Caviar work to correct signs of ageing. They are more suited to the Gen X age group who are looking for multiple benefits, innovation and exceptional quality. Beauty is now more about ensuring you look the best you can at any age, and this is definitely the ethos being followed by many women of influence in the Gen X age group.” OUTSMARTING AGEING StriVectin have a focus on outsmarting ageing vs a typical anti-ageing message, says Garyl Goujon, brand manager at Luxasia.

Garyl Goujon BRAND MANAGER, LUXASIA


Matt Holloway DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS AND EVENTS, IS CLINICAL

“They are typically dealing with a wide range of skin concerns and are wellinformed consumers who research to find the right products to target and treat their individual needs. Over the past few years, the market has shifted to health-focused formulas. Gen X customers are savvy consumers and as a brand we innovate to their core needs.” Education is the most important outreach we do across all demographics, including Gen X, says Holloway. “Gen X customers are either curious or already knowledgeable with their routines. At iS Clinical, education of product, ingredients

TALKING POINT

“Gen X women make up the brand’s core customers. Anti-ageing is the top product attribute consumers look for when purchasing skincare products and StriVectin’s exclusive and patented NIA-114 technology is based on over 40 years of biomedical research and clinically-proven results.” The best-selling product for 2019 was the TL Advanced Tightening Face & Neck Cream, which generated over 20 per cent of the brand’s total sales in Priceline stores last year, says Goujon. “It is the number one selling neck cream and category leader in the US. StriVectin’s cult hero product is SD Advanced Intensive Concentrate for Wrinkles & Stretchmarks and represents 13 per cent of the brand’s total sales in Priceline. It transforms the look of skin in just 15 days and one product is sold worldwide every 72 seconds. StriVectin is renowned for its science-based innovation and customers can expect the launch of exciting new products for the 40 to 55 age group throughout 2020.” Gen Xers feel close to the celebrities who have marked their generation and who continue to evolve, says Goujon. “StriVectin has welcomed iconic supermodel-turned-rolemodel, Lauren Hutton, as the brand’s global brand ambassador and first celebrity face. She is an age-positive inspiration and symbol of empowerment. She redefined beauty in the 1960s and is still doing it today at 70-something, while still breaking the rules.” iS Clinical offers technologically advanced anti-ageing products and the US brand incorporates the highest quality pharmaceutical grade ingredients. Celebrity fans include Jessica Alba and Rosie Huntington-Whitely. “Gen X is a very important demographic for the brand,” says Matt Holloway, director of public relations and events, iS Clinical.

and the efficacy of our formulations take priority, so we can properly guide customers with the right products and tailored skincare regimens. The rise of interest and information on professional, cosmeceutical skincare is increasing within the Gen X demographic. iS Clinical is dedicated to producing highly effective, clinically validated skincare that delivers dramatic visible improvements.” FRAGRANCE SWEET SPOT Women over 40 have long been the sweet spot for prestige fragrances in Australia and around the world. We identify Gen X as our core customer, says Nick Smart, director of Agence de Parfum and Libertine Parfumerie,

Nick Smart DIRECTOR OF AGENCE DE PARFUM AND LIBERTINE PARFUMERIE a leading pioneer of niche perfumery in the Australian market. “Gen Xers are independent, resourceful and self-sufficient and value freedom and responsibility in the workplace. They are attracted to the Agence de Parfum brands for their authenticity and niche positioning, making us one of the leading brands in Australia that strategically targets this demographic.” Gen Xers are enticed by the authenticity of brands such as Amouage, Juliette Has a Gun, Hermetica, Liquides Imaginaires and the soon-to-be-launched, Maison Crivelli, says Smart. “We are currently implementing a new VIP program, involving data capture, targeting EDM call-to-action that invites these customers to engage in educational seminars, deluxe sampling and strategic brand focus. The Gen X demographic is the fastest growing across our business and comprises 60 per

cent of our business. They are cashed-up professionals who want more from their fragrance than a celebrity endorsement and prefer brands that aren’t worn by millions.” MASSTIGE MOVES L’Oréal Paris is ranked as the world’s most valuable beauty brand. In early January, it released its first makeup range aimed exclusively at Gen Xers - the Age Perfect Makeup Collection - in the US. The lineup contains 100 SKUs and is a determined attempt to capture the loyalty of this crucial demographic. In Australia, the entire L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect portfolio targets the Gen X profile, says Raagjeet Garg, L’Oréal Paris marketing director Australia.

Raagjeet Garg L’ORÉAL PARIS MARKETING DIRECTOR AUSTRALIA

“We believe that it’s important to change the way people think about ageing and help women to fulfill themselves according to their own rules and desires. In skincare, the L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser and Revitalift Filler products cater to women aged 40 to 55 to correct wrinkles and re-densify the skin. In haircare, L’Oréal Paris Excellence colourant offers 100% grey coverage though a reformulated 3-step system for a deep, natural and even result. We have major representation from Gen X as part of our Global Ambassador crew because they are an important segment across all brands in the L’Oréal group.” PHARMACY FAVOURITES The wants and desires of Gen X consumers for more affordable, in-home salon technology with clinically proven results underpin our innovation pipeline ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |23


TALKING POINT

Kate Winslet and Penelope Cruz are global faces for Lancôme from the Gen X demographic.

Juliette Toolin MARKETING MANAGER, ESSENTIAL BEAUTY, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS at Manicare, says Juliette Toolin, marketing manager, essential beauty, McPherson’s consumer products. “In February this year, we launched Nova Fit, the first affordable facial massager with EMS (electronic muscle innovation), to meet the need of Gen Xers for an age-defying rather than an anti-ageing regimen. It’s been clinically proven to improve skin firmness within 30 days.” As the oldest cohort of Millennials are turning 40 in 2020, it’s important for market-leading brands such as Manicare and Lady Jayne to develop portfolios that cater to life stage needs, says Toolin. “Education and training are key for higher value items and new salon technologies. Our field and BA teams are equipped to provide such value-added information for in-store customers, in addition to our online tutorials. The over-39s are most concerned about lines and wrinkles and are always looking for better or new solutions. Research that suggests they are responsive to advertising.” A mix of both offline and online communication is important when reaching out to Gen X customers, notes Toolin. “Specifically for Manicare media usage, we know this increases on weekends with the internet being essential for discovery. According to a recent survey, 63 per cent find the internet most useful for providing information when buying cosmetics, 45 per cent are more likely to be high consumers of out of home media and 44 per cent research products and services online, but purchase offline.” 24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

DB Cosmetics was recently hailed as the number one selling cosmetics brand in independent pharmacies in Australia, says Markeeta King, senior brand manager, DB Cosmetics.

Markeeta King SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, DB COSMETICS

“As Gen X is the main shopper demographic in independent pharmacies, they represent a huge revenue driver and focus for our brand. We are a cosmetic brand that crosses generations, but in 2020 we will be putting even more of a focus on in-store Gen X shoppers across all touchpoints.” We know that Gen X shoppers visit independent pharmacies to purchase key products such as foundation, mascara, lipstick and fragrances, says King. “We always ensure we have strong offerings in each category and that they are at the forefront of our new product development and future in-store activity. The Gen X purchaser of DB Cosmetics is an avid Facebook user, so our strategy on the platform differs from our other social media initiatives. We also saw an influx of Gen X influencers in 2019 and have already started to engage them for our programs this year.” Gen X is a huge target for DB Cosmetics and the company always have them top-of-mind when they are creating NPD strategies, adds King. “We also conduct research throughout the year to monitor their purchasing habits to ensure the products we release align with them. We also have a heavy focus on sampling to the Gen X demographic. The increased use of Gen X-aged ambassadors and faces to promote beauty brands have empowered

their generation to be more confident within themselves and their beauty choices.” Gen X represent a significant share of Avène customers, so they are top-of-mind when we develop new products, says

Olivia Harland JUNIOR BRAND MANAGER, EAU THERMALE AVÈNE

Olivia Harland, junior brand manager for Eau Thermale Avène. “We train our pharmacy staff to understand that consultation is key to the wants and needs of customers. Gen X is looking for the best technology and are interested in ageing gracefully. They prefer a regime of 5-plus products and thoroughly research products before purchase.” Gen X use Facebook a lot more than Instagram, says Harland. “We tailor content directly to them, which contains more text than something we would share with Millennials. We have two anti-ageing ranges - PhysioLift and DermAbsolu that are targeted at the Gen X consumer. Physiolift is designed to fight deep wrinkles, while DermAbsolu nourishes, restores firmness and fights sagging.” Gen X celebs like Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani have helped to shift the definition of ageing, adds Harland. “They have both aged fantastically well and have been open about their commitment to skincare and this has opened a big marketing door. A lot of brands that were previously only targeting Millennials have slowly shifted their approach, as Gen Xers still hold a higher spending power.” More than 50 per cent of Dr LeWinn’s consumers in Priceline are aged 45-plus,


says Kim Boulter, brand manager for Dr LeWinn’s. “The Dr LeWinn’s Ultra R4 range specifically targets women aged 40+ and is now the best-selling lineup for the brand in Australian pharmacy, according to the latest IRI MarketEdge data. The range has a phenomenal growth rate of 85 per cent and is formulated using the advanced collagen-boosting peptide, palmitoyl tripepetide-3. In recent clinical tests, 86 per cent of women noticed an improvement in the firmness and elasticity of their skin and an increase in hydration after only four weeks of use.” Gen X has always been the heartland of the Mavala consumer base, says

Remi Bouchenez MANAGING DIRECTOR, MAVALA AUSTRALIA

Remi Bouchenez, managing director, Mavala Australia. “This demographic looks for product integrity and efficacy in formulas and Mavala has a strong brand loyalty because it is centred on providing solutions-based care. In addition to being sold in pharmacy, Mavala’s website offers online shopping capability and is also an information hub on all aspects of beauty.” Mavala’s Instagram and Facebook communities reflect the connection we have to our consumers, especially Gen Xers, who use the platforms to discover brand news and to connect with each other, says Bouchenez. “To increase brand exposure and cross-category purchasing, we have recently introduced an on-going subscription service called Mavabox. There’s no minimum contract, and the paid-for service delivers a minimum of $100 worth of products every three months. It is proving a great way to broaden purchasing opportunities with Gen X customers.” The entire skincare range, Swiss Skin Solutions, launched in 2018 and is dedicated to the Gen X age group, adds Bouchenez. “This year we are building on the range with the launch of the new Nutri Elixir collection, specifically designed for dry skin lacking in volume and elasticity.” SIGNIFICANT SHIFT TO NATURAL German natural brand, Dr Hauschka, is a leading pioneer of the natural skincare

Pip Edwards, the Australian fashion designer and co-founder of PE Nation, is an ambassador in the Gen X category for Estée Lauder. Image: David Jones.

sector, dating back to the 1930s. It is common for people to come to Dr Hauschka as they approach the age of 40, says

Janet Southern PR AND DIGITAL MARKETING, HELIOS HEALTH AND BEAUTY

Janet Southern, PR and digital marketing, Helios health and beauty. “This is often because their skin has become problematic, sensitive or unbalanced. Also, as we get older, we are more likely to scrutinise product ingredients and having a healthy skin becomes more important.” Many of our BAs are Gen Xers themselves and our training is in-depth, says Southern. “We expect a prospective or existing Gen X customer to receive an optimum product prescription appropriate for their skin condition at the time, their age, the season and more. We find that some features very much resonate with our new customers, such as our no night cream stance. Our co-founder, Elisabeth Sigmund, discovered that oil-free night care supports the skin in its natural regenerating process, whereas heavy night creams impede it.”

Melanie Anderson TRAINING MANAGER, DR HAUSCHKA AUSTRALIA

According to Melanie Anderson, training manager, Dr Hauschka Australia, many Gen X clients come to the brand when they are no longer seeing results with their current skincare or they are seeking a radical change from conventional skincare. “Our aestheticians look at a client’s lifestyle, skin type, age, energy and stress levels, exposure to toxins and allergens. Then come to a mutually agreed plan for a daily, weekly and monthly routine.” The brand’s customer base includes a very high proportion of Gen Xers, who were asked what they wanted in EDMs and on social media, says Southern. “The major feedback was that they wanted tips as their top priority. So, we focus on a wide variety

TALKING POINT

Kim Boulter BRAND MANAGER, DR LEWINN’S

of advice from correct cleansing to body care. We developed our Regenerating range specifically for Gen X. It’s all about vitality and renewal to support a maturing skin. In March, we launched two Regenerating Intensive products for very dry and dehydrated skin, which often worsens after menopause at 55 years of age.” Gen X represents our highest percentage of customers says Vicki Engsall, cofounder and product development manager, The Jojoba Company.

Vicki Engsall CO-FOUNDER AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY “We have undertaken a significant amount of research and conducted customer panels to understand this customer better and design products that really appeal to the demographic. I am a Gen Xer myself and relate to the needs, emotions and challenges of my generation. That’s why we have created the Age-Defying range with the needs of Gen X front-of-mind. They want ethical, pure, sustainable and, most importantly, efficacious products that provide results.” The company specifically create content around its Age-Defying range, which focuses on the results and effects of jojoba-based skincare, says Engsall. “Because jojoba can carry our active and clinically proven botanical ingredients deeper into the skin, the testimonials from our Gen X customers are extraordinary. Skin can become more complicated with the complexities of hormone changes and ageing, which is a main reason more Gen Xers are coming to our brand. Our Ultimate Youth Potion targets Gen Xers and we plan to extend the range further.” The stigma around ageing has certainly shifted over the past 10 years, adds Engsall. “There’s more dialogue around ‘owning’ your laughter lines and seeing classic ageing signs in a more positive light. Today’s focus celebrates ageing with grace, rather than trying to turn back the clock. The term anti-ageing no longer has cut-through and remains over-used in the beauty industry.” ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |25


Key Ingredients in Our Antiseptic Range: l SILVER is a broad spectrum antiviral-antibiotic that has been used for thousands of years. As a colloid, silver can be used topically and internally. l GREEN TEA contains a group of flavonoids called catechins, which appear to inhibit viral infections by blocking the enzymes that allow it to reproduce. l OREGANO has plant compounds which include carvacrol, which may offer antiviral properties. l ROSEMARY has therapeutic applications due to its numerous plant compounds, including oleanolic acid, which has displayed antiviral activity. l CLOVE is known to have anti-microbial, anti-fungal, antiviral, antiseptic and stimulating properties. l CINNAMON LEAF also shows antiviral activity as a liquid. l TEA TREE has antiviral properties that have been shown to be effective against common pathogens. l EUCALYPTUS contains substances that can kill bacteria. It also may kill some viruses and fungi. l THYME contains antiseptic, antiviral, antibacterial, carminative, diaphoretic, and expectorant properties which may support healing throughout the entire body.

DIRECTIONS:

In our easy to use roll-on bottle, our ‘Essential Hand Sanitiser’ can be used as often as you like. Simply roll the gel over hands and massage in. INGREDIENTS:

True Colloidal SIlver [demineralised water, nanosilver particles 30ppm], Green Tea Extract, Glycerine, Xanthan gum, Essential oils of: Oregano, rosemary, orange, cinnamon, clove, tea tree, eucalyptus and thyme. *The best and most consistent method of preventing the spread of viruses – and reducing your risk of contracting them – remains washing your hands with soap and water and avoiding touching your face as much as possible (via cdc.gov).

Our promise to you is simple:

to produce quality natural and organic skincare that won’t hurt you or your pocket

ZERO NASTIES


CLEANSKIN ORGANICS

Essential Hand Sanitiser Our 100% natural antiseptic range has been specially formulated to aid in killing germs, bacteria and viruses* using a potent blend of essential oils and medical grade colloidal silver. There is no known bacteria or virus that can survive in the presence of silver. It disrupts the germs’ respiration process and no resistance can be built up against it. We’ve combined colloidal silver with a potent blend of antiviral and antibacterial essential oils to create formulations that will help you fight off germs when you are out and about. RANGE INCLUDES:

Essential Hand Sanitiser and Foaming Antiseptic Hand Wash

To stock

CLEANSKIN ORGANICS in your store, email:

info@cleanskinorganics.com www.cleanskinorganics.com


5 minutes with...

Delta Goodrem How do you stay true to your vision once your baby (product) has gone to market? Post-launch, almost everyone will no doubt give you their feedback – whether you’ve asked for it or not! Nicci Herrera chats with Delta Goodrem – a living and breathing brand – about the success (and challenges) of launching three perfumes, which happen to be the fastest selling fragrance range in Chemist Warehouse to date. Delta shares her thoughts. STAYING TRUE TO YOUR BRAND OR STAYING ON BRAND. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN TO YOU?

“Staying true to my brand means staying authentic to who I am and what I stand for. I lead with my heart and I want my artistry, whether it is my music or fragrances, to be meaningful and to create a connection with my supporters and consumers.”

Everything I do is an extension of who I am. I am involved in every step of the process from inception to fruition. 28| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

HOW DO YOU FILTER FEEDBACK – POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE - AND STICK TO YOUR VISION?

“I think feedback is crucial and a proactive approach to growth. Taking the time to explore feedback is very valuable for a brand. While it’s important to look at and hear all sides, I also believe it’s important to be strong enough to know your own instincts and value system in making decisions.”


5 MINUTES WITH... WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO YOU AS DELTA ‘THE BRAND’?

“It is extremely important to me to make meaningful long-term decisions for my brand and to continue to be inspiring. To make sure there is never a sense of complacency and that there is always a sense of growth. I never take for granted the incredible support I receive from people, particularly those who have been on this journey of growth with me from the beginning. As a result, knowing that I have a public life, I strive to set a good and positive example with my choices and brand.” 5 TIPS TO GROW AND DEVELOP YOUR BRAND AND STAY TRUE TO YOUR BELIEFS?

1. When developing your brand, it’s important to stay true to yourself and

your beliefs by creating partnerships and products that are congruent with what you believe in and feel connected to. 2. Your brand should reflect who you really are. Make it authentic and personal. 3. Building a solid brand foundation is key. Know the brand purpose and motivation and what you want the brand to achieve. 4. Be resilient. Always. 5. Pick the right people. Surround yourself with a great team and leaders who share the same goals and see the vision for your brand.

Everything I do is an extension of who I am. I am involved in every step of the process from inception to fruition. It’s extremely important that I am personally involved in all aspects of my work and creations that are an extension of myself that are shared with the world. For me, having a hands-on approach and being involved in every aspect of the development from beginning to end, protects the authenticity of what I create and makes sure people know that what I put out is something they can trust and feel connected to.”

IS THERE MUCH DIFFERENCE IN CREATING A PRODUCT AND CAPTURING YOU AND PUTTING THAT INTO A PRODUCT? EXPLAIN.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR DELTA?

“Capturing ‘me’ and putting it into a product has been my passion and focus since the day I started writing albums.

“I have a really clear vision for 2020. I am currently filming the ninth season of The Voice and putting the finishing touches on new music. I have been hard at work in the studio and I can’t wait for everyone to hear my new album and to tour.” ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |29


FEATURE

A PRODUCT FOR EVERYONE

With the ability to trace the ‘fingerprints’ of odours and toxins, the Sensori+ Air Detoxifying Mist is designed to be used as a versatile mist suitable in many everyday situations. It can be used to remove malodours such as cooking smells stuck on clothes or hair, or to purify the air in a gym after a sweaty session. It can also be used to get rid of nappy bin odours and even the toughest paint smell (formaldehyde) following home renovations. A CLEAN AND VEGAN BRAND INSPIRED BY AUSTRALIA

On a quest for cleaner,

healthier air Ben Xu has always been passionate about sustainable ecosystems. While working and travelling in the FMCG industry, he became very aware of the impact of airborne toxins, air quality issues and the need for a solution. So he found one… Curing the air we breathe is a process of elimination, not of addition, according to Fuchsia Brands director of operations and Sensori+ co-founder Ben Xu. With this in mind, Ben went on a journey looking for a solution. It took Ben eight years and the support of renowned scientists and experts in the field to perfecting a unique formula to detoxify and improve air quality - the trademarked ChlorosPure. A plant derived formula, ChlorosPure neutralises more than 100 types of airborne toxics and odours without adding any secondary pollutions to our environment. Initially conceived for indoor air quality management (residential/commercial) and industrial emission control in the textile and foundry industries, the technology successfully landed projects in Asia 30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

and won the foreign expert award in Tai’an, China. In 2018, the Sensori+ Air Detoxifying Mist was born; a simple yet sophisticated solution bringing the benefits of nature into people’s busy lives. HOW THE CHLOROSPURE TECHNOLOGY WORKS

Traditional solutions cover air contamination and malodours with strong scents, often using ingredients that can pose a greater damage with a formation of new chemical compound. But this revolutionary green technology naturally dissolves the toxins and odour molecules into inorganic substance like H2O and CO2, according to Ben. It restores a fresh air experience without the ‘scent-masking’ common in home fragrances. Sensori+ Air Detoxifying Mist was designed to be a versatile spray that works in a space of 30-40sqm with between four and six sprays. In a matter of seconds, the formula will neutralise airborne toxins and provide bacteria inhabitation to eliminate unpleasant odours. With efficacy being at the heart of Sensori+, intensive testings with multiple international authorities have been done on the ChlorosPure formula. These show outstanding results for bacterial inhibition, airborne toxins removal (average removal ratio 96%) and non-irritant properties (pH natural).

Australian-made and owned, Sensori+ emphasises on being sustainable, cruelty free and vegan, and uses natural ingredients making it suitable to use around babies, people with sensitive lungs and even pets with a sensitive nose. Inspired by Australian sanctuaries, the Sensori+ products are available in three different blends identified by a four digit number, which is the postcode of the place that inspired each blend. There is also an unscented version which has the highest concentration of ChlorosPure. These are: • Macedon Trail 3441 • Toowoomba Carnival 4350 • Gayndah Orchard 4625 • Signature Unscented 0000 WHAT’S NEXT?

Following the successful launch of the Air Detoxifying Mist, Sensori+ has launched world’s first Air Detoxifying Soy Candles in late 2019. Created with natural essential oils and featuring the ChlorosPure technology, the Air Detoxifying Candle is the perfect addition to any home, offering an aromatic experience while detoxifying indoor air and eliminating odours. The brand has just introduced a new wellness experience, a natural bath and body ritual range infused with probiotics and natural active ingredients designed to detoxify and improve skin’s health. The Sensori+ Detoxifying Shower Oil, Oil-In-Lotion Body Balm and Bondi Beach Sand Body Polish have been conceived to shell the body from ‘modern pollutants’. For Ben and the Sensori+ team, the most important priority is to continuously drive science development to offer clean wellness and beauty products that are proven to work. They are committed to using ethically sourced materials, sustainable packaging and are of course cruelty free and vegan.


FEATURE

Beauty

disruptor

There’s no doubt Ali Shoraka is a game-changer when it comes to beauty. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the CEO of Fuchsia Brands to hear all about his incredible vision for the unique, sustainable and inclusive brands he represents. With his impressive blend of more than two decades of beauty industry expertise, combined with the correct dose of madness, innovation and inspirational leadership, Ali Shoraka is the perfect person to be appointed CEO of new Australian beauty and wellness group, Fuchsia Brands. Ali, previously CEO at Sensori+ Australia, with stints as managing director Oceania at Foreo, general manager - luxe brands at L’Oréal and senior positions at the likes of LVMH and Puig under his belt, has experience many of us can only dream of. His vision for Fuchsia Brands, a unique, quirky and very colourful beauty group, is refreshingly simple yet relevant: ‘Disrupt the Present’. In his new role, Ali has been tasked to globally establish and expand the footprint of Fuchsia Brands. Speaking exclusively to esprit, Ali said he wasn’t alone in being an ex-corporate leader motivated to leave the big multinationals to follow a path closer to his heart was “excited, humbled and energised about the journey ahead”. “Ultimately I want to accelerate the pace of evolution toward a sustainable balance of wellbeing between people and nature,” Ali said. “People are tired of lip service and marketing slogans with no authenticity or

action. I am looking forward to sharing our ‘very Fuchsia way’ of bringing beauty and wellness to life with our customers and brand partners globally.” Ali said 2020 was shaping up to be a very busy year for Fuchsia Brands. “In short, 2020 will be a very busy, rewarding and colourful year for Fuchsia Brands,” he said. “The expansion of Sensori+ into a few key global markets including China, Japan and Europe, introducing a new Australian brand mid-2020 and launching one of Switzerland’s most premium and innovative skincare brands into Australia are just a handful of teasers. We will announce the full plan - including a surprise brand new brand - in April when we meet the press in Sydney.” (This has since been postponed.) Ali said his hand-picked staff were as diverse as his brand portfolio. “There is no cultural ‘fit-in’ rule book in this office,” he said. “We are all here with a unique but shared vision.”

On its website, Fuchsia Brands said its motto was “genuine collaboration with brands, retailers and consumers to bring the best of beauty and wellness to Oceania and beyond” and to highlight the best in luxury beauty. “We are dedicated to bringing the unique, the innovative and the most relevant brands to the region. Bringing the best of luxury beauty and wellness experiences that excite our consumers and brand partners is our passion!” it reads. The website also says Fuchsia Brands “don’t see ourselves as distributors” but instead are “brand partners with an obsessive commitment to the brands we choose to work with”. In a statement, the Fuchsia Brands board of directors said they were looking forward to having Ali’s vision on board. “We are excited and honoured to welcome Ali onboard and looking forward to his strategic stewardship shaping the future of our brands worldwide,” they said. In 2019, Ali transformed Foreo Oceania to the group’s highest growth region worldwide right after his time at L’Oréal Luxe where the brands under his leadership (Lancôme, YSL, Giorgio Armani, Shu Uemura and Urban Decay) experienced record-breaking market share growth and significant profitability improvement. Brands currently under the Fuchsia Brands portfolio include Australian clean beauty pioneer Sensori+, Swissline, a range of glam science products that are praised by doctors, media and bloggers alike, and Intimina, a Swedish brand that offers a range of products dedicated exclusively to all aspects of women’s intimate health. www.fuchsia-brands.com ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |31


In these uncertain times,

what’s your Plan B?

In this rapidly morphing time of border closures, the disappearance of the Chinese tourist and growing local anxiety in light of the Covid-19 virus, brand custodians, marketing managers and sales teams need a solid Plan B, says Bahar Etminan. It’s no secret that the Australian and New Zealand beauty industries have enjoyed a honeymoon with Chinese customers and abundant tourist sales from a weak Australian dollar. The heavy reliance on the Chinese consumer and other tourist sales, particularly for luxury and ‘clean’ Australian brands, has been a gift to retailers and brands for many 32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

years. These customers shored up the changes and decline in sales for former retail giants, boosted online sales and aided the proliferation of niche brands. Brands need to ask: How relevant are my marketing and sales plans in this new age of low contact, hyper vigilance over hygiene and the absence of Chinese and other tourists?

When I started my career in beauty, as a traveller for Parfums Givenchy while I was at university, we received specialty training on selling to the Japanese. It was the early 90s and the Japanese tourist was king for luxury and beauty sales. We learned how to modify our service style, sell in multiple units and the art of gift wrapping. This reliance on Japanese customers came to an abrupt end when their economy tanked, and marketing managers were scrambling to create meaningful local activations to close the sales gap. Today the Covid-19 virus has led to a travel ban from China with many European and Middle Eastern countries to follow. (Further travel bans have since been introduced.) Brands need to respond and adapt their strategy, fast. The significance of this is great. For many luxury brands Chinese customers


Delivering on trust, transparency and meaningful brand communication will be key. What’s your CRM strategy? Are you working through your local data base and pro-actively speaking to your customers to answer their questions and offer them new ways to interact with your brand? What is your sampling strategy? Are you offering your local customers information and inspiration to consider and buy your brands even in a time of confusion and stress? The old rules and marketing plans won’t apply. Agile companies will need to activate engaging strategies to speak to and sell to the local customer. They will need to invest in local media with meaningful audience relationships built over time on trust and relevance, investment and collaborations with local micro influencers with authentic audiences. Online events, webinars and streaming will replace in store activity and seminars. Delivering on trust, transparency and meaningful brand communication will be key. The best and brightest marketing managers, training executives and retailers will be considering tools such as virtual reality and use of in store and online apps for BAs to help guide customers through shade selection, product selection and education in the absence of testers and application. The need for information and responding to consumer need for guidance won’t go away, it’s the how you deliver this that will need to adapt.

FEATURE

make up a disproportionally large percentage of their customer base in Australia. According to a research piece by Bain, referenced in Business Insider: “Chinese consumers accounted for around 35% of the total spend in the global luxury market in 2019 and 90% of the growth in global luxury goods sales.” I’ve been in the beauty industry for over 25 years. I’ve worked on counters, imported and distributed 36 brands via my first business Brandmakers, launched Australia’s first distributor owned online beauty store Rescu Beauty Bar, and headed up two brands for Estee Lauder Group – Bobbi Brown and Origins. For more than a decade I’ve been an online publisher and editor. More recently I’ve evolved to also become a micro influencer, speaker and consultant in this space. In 2018, I launched an online education platform and our first beauty course: Be Your Own Make Up Artist. In this time, I’ve seen first hand how cycles work and the danger of relying on narrow sources of sales. The only way to survive, and thrive, is to adapt, diversify your consumer base and always, always look after your core local customer. This is a unique opportunity for brands to re-focus on Australian consumers. To create meaningful offers that incentivise the customers to shop online locally or discover your product in store. This is the time to update your businesses’ supply chain process and ask how will your brand touch and communicate with local customers? And most importantly, what changes do we make to our brand messaging to re-engage and strengthen connections with the local consumers like never before? Sephora were first to cancel make up services and no doubt by the time this article is printed, other brands and retailers will have followed suit, possibly removing all testers and significantly reducing the tactile sales and demonstration process.

Already, travel bans and head count freezes are pushing companies to think smarter and to allocate resources differently. Budget cuts cover lost sales and will force innovative thinking and an entrepreneurial mindset. As companies replace traditional meetings and training events with online education and video calls, reaching and selling to the customer will also need a re-think. The marketing spend will shrink and every dollar spent will demand compelling ROI. What won’t change is the consumers desire and interest in grooming, self care and beauty. Remember that even in the times of crisis and depression, the lipstick index stands the test of time. Men and women want to look good, smell good and ultimately feel good. And that’s what we do. We are in the look good and feel beautiful business so now, more than ever it’s time to re-think how we can deliver our product, services and messaging in this new climate of rapid change, low contact and high anxiety. Bahar Etminan is the author of Rescu Me! A Makeover Guide for the Life More Fabulous, publisher of women’s lifestyle site www. rescu.com.au and founder of online education platform www. rescumeacademy.com including an online beauty education course Be Your Own Make Up Artist.

The only way to survive, and thrive, is to adapt, diversify your consumer base and always, always look after your core local customer.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |33


T H E L I T T L E PAW PAW

THAT COULD THE ALL-AUSSIE OINTMENT HAS SEEN GLOBAL SUCCESS, BUT THIS IS THE YEAR IT CALLS AUSTRALIA HOME AGAIN. If you head to South East Asia, the USA or the UK, Pure Paw Paw is a household – and handbag – name. Indonesia, China, Taiwan, Singapore, and even Russia are huge fans, the latter of which has a dedicated, loyal Instagram following of almost 80,000. Closer to home, New Zealand, Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia are all aboard the paw paw train too. But what about actually at home? In our own backyards, and back pockets, in the very country where Pure Paw Paw is from? Well that is where the best is yet to come.

Pure Paw Paw was born in 2013, the creation of respected Australian skincare company, Core Metrics (of The Goat Skincare and The Bronzer fame). Devised with the intention to reimagine the cult papaya ointment category, their version was specifically designed with a new breed of paw paw users in mind: one who had never known of its benefits before. Tapping into the heart of the much-desired Millenial and Gen Z market, Pure Paw Paw took all soothing benefits of papaya ointment and gave it a modern makeover. Unique to the market at the time, Pure Paw Paw was created in four flavours, including watermelon, grape, passionfruit, and the runaway favourite, strawberry. With bright, bold packaging and contrasting caps, each flavour was also given a fun, quirky persona, reminiscent of K-beauty products – except before the world was obsessed with K-beauty. To further capture the zeitgeist of this caring, woke generation, the packaging is also 100% recyclable, and of course is not tested on animals.


I

t’s easy to see why the international success was meteoric, especially with the global appreciation of Australian products. The allnatural, all-Aussie formulation uses 100% pure papaya sourced from far north Queensland, and is fermented locally in Melbourne. It also uses the natural humectant, beeswax (instead of the pharmaceutical wax favoured by other brands) which helps retain moisture in the skin and aids in its soothing qualities. Since launch it’s seen rapid expansion with distribution in 15 countries worldwide. This epic distribution all happened within a mere three years. It’s clear that the world has got the Pure Paw Paw memo. Yet, like the tale of many great Aussie success stories, you first need to conquer the overseas market before Australia will take notice.

100% Recyclable, and of course is not tested on animals.

And this is the year to take notice. With a focus on bringing the brand back home and expanding that following into our own backyards, Core Metrics has big plans for the tubes in 2020. This includes three new flavours, a lip scrub SKU, and the recent launch of 15g lip applicator tubes. Traditionally Paw Paw ointments have only been available in tubes or pots, cementing its appeal as a multi-use product. But, the introduction of lip applicators guides consumers to redefine their idea of the product, and introduces a new generation to the product via the common gateway into beauty: a lip balm. And with a predominantly female 16-25 year old demographic we can already sense success.

Interested in stocking Pure Paw Paw and working with Core Metrics? Contact Core Metrics on ph: 03 9484 4485 | e: info@core-metrics.com.au


Light at the

end of the tale By Andrea Ferrari

I find it hard to contain myself when I discover something that intrigues me. I get excited and then things escalate. My reasoning, on reflection, is that if I find it fascinating or amazing, then so will you. I am driven to share it with you. It’s my responsibility to inform you. Don’t you think? I get such a kick out of a positive response, too. An “oooaaah”, a gasp of delight, a sparkling eye and smiley face, serve as encouragement for me to continue. Attentive listening further fuels my bubbling monologue. 36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


FEATURE

I knew I had to bide my time and not make a twit of myself. I do believe in the divine path. I walked my walk and enjoyed the beautiful Byron atmosphere. Then two days later I was unusually going for a swim with my daughter at midday. As we wended our way down the pathway onto the beach I looked to my right. “Hey Liv is that Rich Roll sitting there?” It was. And then a woman joined him. Rich has the most beautiful soul as his wife – the divine goddess, Julie Piat (spiritual name: Sri Mati). I put down my phone. And walked towards them. With nothing but an old bikini on and my hand in anjali mudra (prayer hands), I caught their eye and hesitated and uttered Rich’s famous saying “Peace. Plants”. He stretched out his hand and we shook. My day was made. But there’s more. So generous with their openness and time, we chatted about being in Australia, loving Tallow Beach and Julie’s vegan cheese company just launching (as a fan I’m across what they share about their business interests). I thanked them and withdrew as gracefully as I could, despite wanting to spin into a full body eureka! I wandered into the sea to join Liv and feign a casual swim with my racing, gleeful mind re-running the conversation tape. After a few minutes we walked back across the sand and up the pathway home. And then she dropped a beauty: “I took a photo of you”. This photo is a treasure to me – meeting my hero, and not being totally dumbstruck. A memento of a totally coincidental happy meeting. Sharing something you’re excited about ignites enthusiasm in those who receive it. Honing your excitement so as not to lose impact through gabbling or frothing at the mouth is a wise move, but keep your bright eyes, your smiley smile and your animated gestures. As you’re introducing your customers to your latest launch, navigating them through a one-on-one consultation or passing on a pertinent point bring them some sunshine in these trying times. A funny personal story, a mind-blowing coincidence or an inspiring read…bring it out to your customers, give it voice, lighten up their day. Here’s to freedom of funny speech!

So. I want to tell you a story. It’s a true story, which makes it even better. And it happened to me! At Christmas time. With the January print issue of esprit on the presses, the elderly cat in the TLC of a neighbour who wanted the company of a female who wouldn’t answer him back over the holiday period, and my son discovering Europe en seule in a campervan, I drove up north to my daughter who was living in Byron Bay at the time. Off I went for some Ferrari family festive fun. On my nine-hour drive to the sun I did what I love to do. I listened to my favourite podcasts. My interest is to self-educate on wellness, I am fascinated by the mental powers required for endurance and I lap up long-form interviews with thought leaders and company founders who drive change for the better in the world. A few of my regular ear-bud chums are The Joe Rogan Podcast, Dr Rangan Chatterjee’s Feel Better Live More and The Chase Jarvis Live Show. And my all time favourite, which in my mind deserves a drum roll (no pun intended), is The Rich Roll Podcast (RRP). As I wrote that I literally imaged half of you going “Yes!” My life is informed by his interviewees and my lifeSTYLE is inspired by his experiences as a wholefoods plant based ultra athlete. I think everyone knows Rich and is up to date with the podcasts. Because I don’t go a day without mentioning Rich Roll, I am in a self-created world of abundant Rich Roll-ness. I am realising that reality is actually skewed to NOT everyone knowing about Mr Roll. So, hey, that’s an opportunity for me to share what I know! Days before my drive to Byron I had been browsing through my Instagram and seen my California-based hero photographed in Sydney’s Bondi Icebergs. He’s on Australian terra firma. The idea of a stalk flittered through my mind and out the other side. I know he’ll absolutely love it here. However, it was in the challenged times of our horrendous bush fires and the air was smokey and the daylight was eerie. But Sydney, Bondi…it’s an amazing spot to find yourself in for a seasonal break. I motored to Byron and settled in for MY holiday. My twice daily walk was along Tallow Beach (Suffolk Park). It’s my happy place. Bliss. On Christmas Day we started prepping for a lunch of eight girls, friends and family of my daughter’s share house residents. With chilled wine on the menu, I offered to drive out for the bags of ice. As I drove along I spotted a rather appealing bronzed dude jogging the pavement. We caught eyes. On my return journey I spotted him again. And that’s when the penny dropped, the gold sovereign actually…“It’s Rich Roll!”. I drove past him and tried to stare in the rear-view mirror without taking my eyes off the road ahead – not easy and not safe, so I pulled over and he ran past again. I rang my daughter. “I think Rich Roll is running up our street. Now!” She skittered out as I approached the driveway, having driven past him, again! He jogged past us saying “hi” and turned in to the house three doors up. I’m sure that “hi” was in a Californian accent. It IS him. And my daughter confirmed she thought so too. OMG OMG OMG. Christmas night lying back on my pillows in bed after a heartwarmingly delightful celebration together of women, I scrolled insta. There he was. Rich Roll, standing on the beach at dusk…he mentioned Byron, but I recognised that tree, that cut of the coast, the beach…that’s Tallow Beach and you’re three doors up mate! Beside myself is one way to describe my state.

Rich Roll

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |37



Liar

W R I N K L E C H E AT E R

TM

WANT T O KNOW MORE? Contact : vanessa@liarwrinklecheater.com


COMMUNITY PHARMACY

The show must go on

01.

APP2020, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s annual national conference and the largest pharmacy conference and trade show in Australia, was postponed due to the coronavirus pandemic. But more than 1,000 people tuned in to the APP Online livestream supporting the new, digital format of conference. 40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

More than 6000 pharmacy owners, managers, pharmacists, intern pharmacists, retail managers, pharmacy assistants and company representatives were expected to attend the Australian Pharmacy Professional (APP) 2020 conference. Scheduled to be a four-day trade exhibition, held from March 18-22, showcasing the latest products, services and industry information, it was unfortunately postponed, like so many other conferences and events, due to the unfolding Covid-19 pandemic crisis. But there was a light at the end of the tunnel, with APP Online successfully live-streamed nationwide. More than 1,000 people tuned in to the APP Online livestream from Thursday, March

19, to Saturday, March 21, supporting the new, digital format of the conference. With a backdrop of the unfolding Covid-19 pandemic crisis, presentations understandably focused on support for pharmacists and the wider community at this time. Pharmacy Guild senior national vice President, Trent Twomey, opened the conference by recognising the immense pressure that pharmacists are currently facing. “This pandemic is placing an extreme amount of pressure on everyone in pharmacy. On behalf of the Guild, I am here to reassure the entire community pharmacy workforce that the Guild is here to support you as you support the


THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

02.

entire Australian community during this unprecedented event,” Trent said. “We know that community pharmacy and pharmacists are fatigued, at the forefront of Covid-19 and are continually being asked to do more.” Guild national vice president (finance) John Dowling also added that “the best thing the government can do to provide certainty to pharmacists right now is to sign the 7CPA (Community Pharmacy Agreement).” With more than 40 sessions and up to 28 hours of group 2 CPD credits available, the APP Online program provided practical steps implement in pharmacies and business to manage the Covid-19 crisis, as well as ongoing and important clinical updates. Economist Craig James reminded pharmacy professional that from an economic standpoint, the fundamentals were good, the positives outweighed the negatives, and said it was important to continue to look after customers so they would then look after you. Family violence campaigner and 2015 Australian of the Year, Rosie Batty, whose 11-year-old son Luke Batty was murdered by his father Greg Anderson, highlighted that family violence would become more prevalent during the self-isolation phase of Covid-19.

01. Kos Sclavos, AM, immediate past national president, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia; Trent Twomey, senior national vice president, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia; John Dowling, branch president, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia, Tasmania branch; Natalie Willis, national councillor, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia; Gerard Benedet, branch director, The Pharmacy Guild of Australia, Queensland branch.

02. Rosie Batty, family violence campaigner and 2015 Australian of the Year

03. Mark McCrindle, Principal, McCrindle Research

03.

She said pharmacists had a key role to play to contain additional societal issues from this pandemic. “In Australia, family violence affects one in three women over 15 and one in four children. Family violence isn’t only a man perpetrating violence against a woman, it is a wider societal issue where the elderly, can also be very susceptible,” she said. “Particularly throughout the coronavirus pandemic, I believe there is an opportunity for compassion and generosity of spirit to continue and to rise. Pharmacists and pharmacy workers have a unique opportunity to be mindful

of what customers are going though. Are they more anxious or are there signs of depression? You might be the person who can reach out and support throughout this heightened crisis.” All sessions at APP Online were recorded and are available on-demand for APP delegates. To access visit www. appconference.com/apponline. In addition, Covid-19 resources are available for Guild members at www.guild.org.au/resources/businessoperations/COVID-19-Information

CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) LEVEL 2, 15 NATIONAL CIRCUIT, BARTON ACT 2600 PO BOX 310, FYSHWICK, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 WWW.GUILD.ORG.AU

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |41


INDUSTRY NEWS

The

Green Edit Founded by organic makeup artist Cathy Tolpigin, The Green Edit featured only the very best organic hair and beauty products, perfume, nail care, sunscreen, self care and inner beauty supplements - plus yoga and meditation - all under one roof. Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Cathy for a post-expo debrief.

01.

of brands have already been picked up by stockists locally and overseas – which is a phenomenal result - so I am getting a lot of requests for when the next event will be!” WHAT WERE SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE EVENT?

03. 02.

THE ESPRIT TEAM HAD A FANTASTIC TIME AT THE GREEN EDIT - WHAT DID OTHERS THINK?

“We had such a profound response to The Green Edit and phenomenal feedback from guests who attended and from participating brands who truly benefited from taking part in the event. The Green Edit was a platform that was created to celebrate and promote truly natural, sustainable, ethical and cruelty free brands and connect them with media, buyers, mindful influencers and consumers. We were thrilled to have 20 buyers and over 80 media and influencers attend, followed by 250 mindful consumers.” DID THE GREEN EDIT MEET YOUR EXPECTATIONS?

“The Green Edit exceeded my expectations in all aspects, when I decided that I wanted to create this event I set myself the goal of having 15 truly natural, sustainable and cruelty free beauty and lifestyle brands to make the event viable. We ended up with 40 brands at the event – we couldn’t fit anymore in the space – I had brands on a waitlist! In terms of media and influencer attendees, we were thrilled with the turnout and the feedback 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

04.

we received – not only on the event and the concept – but also on the access they were granted to brands that they may not ordinarily get to hear from, because they aren’t big enough (yet) to hold their own events, or to afford a PR agency to liaise with media on their behalf (yet).” WHAT WAS THE FEEDBACK FROM THE VENDORS?

“I have been inundated with positive feedback from exhibitors, a lot of them said they were grateful to have a platform to showcase their products at an event that supported truly natural brands. It allowed for a room of like-minded people who were all working toward a common green lifestyle goal and they truly felt as though they were part of a conscious community. in terms of ROI for exhibitors, a number

“Seeing it all come together and having a room full of people truly embrace, support and enjoy experiencing natural beauty. Guests were genuinely interested in the exhibiting brands, they were there to learn more about the brands, their founders and products. My objective with this event was to educate and inspire guests to give green beauty and lifestyle products a try, they absolutely did, and it was wonderful to see.” WILL THIS BE TAKING PLACE AGAIN?

“The Green Edit was a year in the making, so at the moment I am regrouping, taking into consideration all of the feedback and learnings from consumers, buyers, exhibitors, media, and thinking about what I do next. I have had requests for roving events, interstate events etc so for me I need to look at where and what the demand is from everyone and think about the best experience I can create.” www.thegreenedit.com.au All photos: Maree Turk

01. The Green Edit founder Cathy Tolpigin. 02. Attendees were able to try the products on display.

04. The Weleda stand at The Green Edit. 04. Yoga in the park by Kai Yoga at the event.


Sisley’s Connected Beauty

…for the hair & scalp Truly connecting and serving customers with tailored hair and scalp care is Sisley’s promise with the introduction of Hair Rituel by Sisley Hair Analyzer. Using an expert connected tool, the educated Sisley beauty consultant is enabled to provide a personalised hair ritual in a 15-minute one-on-one consultation.

Sisley’s goal for its customers, with Hair Analyzer, is for them to have the healthiest scalp and hair ever. “Many people forget about how the condition of Andrea Ferrari tries the Sisley Hair Analyzer. their scalp affects the health of their hair,” says April Roberts, national trainer at Sisley. “If we don’t take care of our scalp, our hair will not flourish.” The Hair Rituel products are formulated with a cocktail of vitamins and minerals (key ones are: zinc, copper and vitamin B5) to feed nutrition into the scalp follicles. is used to diagnose the condition of the Hair Rituel is a modern haircare concept scalp and hair fibre. This device has been launched in 2018 with a line-up of six, now developed alongside expert dermatologists grown to 10, specifically tasked products. and major specialists in connected devices, Along with the shampoo and conditioner making it possible to: view both the scalp variants there are non-traditional products (x110) and the hair fibre (x900) by means such as the Pre-Shampoo Mask and the of its ultra-precise unique optical sensor. Revitalizing Fortifying Serum for the scalp. This information instantly builds a hair Sisley Hair Analyzer launches to deepen diagnosis thanks to a powerful algorithm. the connection between the customer “Sisley’s Hair Analyzer can be used on and her specific hair condition and goals. all types of hair for example, coloured After all, everyone’s hair, scalp…and goals or keratin treated hair. It allows the are unique. conversation to open up about the importance of looking after your scalp, CONNECTED BEAUTY CONSULTATION while helping our skilled consultants to be There is a 5-step consultation which begins in a better position to recommend a highly with the customer discussing her concerns personalized Hair Rituel regime to our and goals. Next, the Hair Analyzer tool customers,” says April.

The Sisley consultant shares the results from the analysis across seven parameters of the scalp and hair fibre: scalp uniformity, scalp sensitivity, condition of pores, moisture levels of scalp, hair density, diameter of the fibre and the condition of the fibre. Also generated from the hair and scalp analysis is a recommended ritual of products. Within the consultation scenario, the products and the method of use can be discussed to engender confidence of getting the best out of the whole experience. The complete hair diagnosis and product recommendations are emailed to the client. Hair Rituel by Sisley Analyzer is available at Sisley counters in David Jones Elizabeth Street, Bourke Street and Chadstone. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |43


INDUSTRY NEWS

LVMH using perfume factories to produce hand sanitiser LVMH has started manufacturing hand sanitiser at three of its perfume and cosmetics factories to donate to French hospitals desperately fighting the country’s coronavirus outbreak. The Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy factories will no longer manufacture fragrance and makeup but will instead be producing as much sanitiser as possible to meet the soaring demand. It’s estimated the French luxury brands will produce 12 tonnes of sanitiser a week. A statement shared by Parfums Christian Dior on LinkedIn read: “In these challenging times, we are all mobilized to fight against Covid-19. Given the risk of a shortage of hydroalcoholic gel, LVMH has started to use the production facilities of all its Perfumes & Cosmetics brands in France – Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy – to produce large quantities of it. The gel is being delivered free of charge to the French health authorities and to the AP-HP, Assistance Publique – Hôpitaux de Paris, starting today. LVMH will honor this commitment for as long as necessary, in connection with the French health authorities.” www.lvmh.com

Sephora, Benefit Cosmetics and other beauty retailers close all US and Canada stores Beauty retail outlet Sephora, owned my LVMH, closed all of its retail stores in the US and Canada in response to the coronavirus pandemic. The stores closed Tuesday, March 17. The announcement was made by JeanAndré Rougeot, president and CEO, Sephora Americas, on its community web page. Customers can still make purchases through the app and online. Ulta Beauty made a similar announcement, stating all its stores throughout the US were closed, as were Atelier Beaute Chanel, L’Oréal Canada and Benefit Cosmetics in the US. At the time of going to print, Sephora Australia and other local beauty retailers were open. www.sephora.com

Founders of Sukin launch new Australian native skincare range

The founders of skincare brand, Sukin, have launched a new Australian native skincare range, Alkira Skin Care, into pharmacies and health food stores across the country. Successful beauty entrepreneurs and siblings, Alison Goodger and Simon O’Connor, joined forces once again, this time for the creation and development of Alkira Skin Care - a vegan-friendly and cruelty-free brand - formulated and inspired by Australian native extracts. The brand, which means ‘bright and sunny’ in the Australian Indigenous language, showcases the benefits derived from Australia’s flora.

44| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Together, they are combined with an array of natural botanicals to help deliver clear, hydrated and radiant skin. There are five different ranges - Hydrating, Brightening, Hydra+, Detoxifying and Refining – each with a selection of products, which include cleansers, creams, facial oils and moisturisers. The Detoxifying range has four masques to detox, brighten and minimise the appearance of fine lines. Michelle Ruzzene’s exclusive interview for espirt with Alison Goodger can be found on our website.

Glamazon acquired by Urban Company for undisclosed sum Glamazon, an Australian based ondemand beauty app that connects freelance hair stylists, makeup artists, spray tanners and other qualified beauty specialists to clients’ doors, has been acquired by Urban Company. Urban Company, an Indian home-services platform previously called Urban Clap, purchased the ‘Uber for beauty’ service off founders Lauren Silvers (left) and Lisa Maree (right) for an undisclosed sum. Urban Company provides a similar service for home maintenance including cleaning, appliance and electronic repairs, carpentry, plumbing, and pest control. Glamazon founders Lauren, 30, and Lisa, 35, told esprit the acquisition happened almost organically because the companies shared “scary similarities” when it came to business and had the “same end vision”. “We found out Urban Company was expanding to Australia,” Lauren said. “We thought, instead if competing, let’s collaborate.” Glamazon’s initial success largely came from appearing on Channel 10’s Shark Tank in 2017, less than one year after the company was conceived. www.urbancompany.com/glamazon


French cult beauty available in Australia and New Zealand

Embryolisse is every serious make-up artist’s secret prep A Parisian skincare rage developed by a physician, recognised for its gentleness + tolerance. Embryolisse ® was created with an understanding of the “Natural Barrier” properties of the skin.

Distributor for Embryolisse, Australia and NZ To become a stockist: info@embrolisse.com.au sales@scottysmakeup.com.au

www.embryolisse.com.au

02 9518 9000


INDUSTRY NEWS Lotte Duty Free signs deal with Mirvac Retail Prestige retail duty free global powerhouse Lotte Duty Free has made its largest investment in Australia to date by signing a deal with Mirvac Retail to open a flagship store at 55 Market Street in Sydney’s CBD in 2021. “This location is in the heart of Sydney’s luxury retail precinct at the intersection of Pitt and Market Streets. We

couldn’t have asked for a more premium location to showcase our quality curated offer,” Lotte Duty Free Oceania CEO Stephen Timms said. The premium design fit-out will be delivered by Bates Smart. Spanning across three levels, the store will occupy circa 3,000 square metres and will feature top beauty and skincare

brands providing exclusive shopping for some of the finest luxury products; a prestige watches boutique; a fine and rare liquor and wine shopping experience; and a number of VIP services including concierge and limousine transfers to Sydney’s top hotels and dining. www.lottedutyfree.com.au

Cosmoprof Bologna postponed due to coronavirus pandemic Beauty workshop held to help those with MS One beauty expert donated her time and skills to a makeup workshop to help those living with multiple sclerosis (MS). Bonnie Gillies, better known as Bonnie G or @ozbeautyexpert to her almost 50,000 Instagram followers and 10,000 Facebook fans, hosted a charity version of her popular Beauty With Bonnie workshop at the Hughenden Boutique Hotel. The workshop guests who were invited to take part were some of the top fundraisers for the Kiss Goodbye to MS campaign, which last year raised $2.5 million dollars for MS research. Bonnie said she started her involvement with the charity after having her own MS scare. Bonnie said beauty brands ModelCo, Bioderma and 1000 Hour had been extremely generous in donating product for the event. Emma Giunti, a mother of two living with MS, said the event was a great way to reward those who had raised funds for the charity. “It’s my greatest pleasure to do something fun, glamorous and worthwhile, although we all know that multiple sclerosis is not fun and it’s never glamorous,” she said. “But having events like this is worth heaps.” www.kissgoodbyetoms.org

46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

The organisers of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, one of the biggest beauty expos in the world, have postponed the evet due to the coronavirus pandemic. The beauty industry trade show was originally scheduled to take place on March 12-16, but was then pushed back three months to June 11-15. Following the release of the emergency decrees to limit the spread of the disease in Italy, as well as the restrictions by other countries in Europe, Asia, American and Australia to limit international travels, BolognaFiere Cosmoprof SpA, the organiser of the event, announced a further postponement. The event is now scheduled to take place September 3-7. Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere, said in a statement it was important to postpone the worldwide event to protect the health and safety of Italians as well as operators and visitors to the event. Other major beauty expos and events have been cancelled due to the worldwide pandemic. Visit our events section on our website for the latest updates on expos www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au/events


HAIRCARE IS THE NEW SKINCARE

hairrituelbysisley

hair-rituel.com

TURN UP THE VOLUME


INDUSTRY NEWS

Model mum and bright

business woman

Supermodel and super mum, Miranda Kerr, may seem like she has the perfect life, but as Kora Organics founder and CEO, she is busy cementing herself as a skincare mogul. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the mother of three boys to chat about the latest launch, the Noni Night AHA Resurfacing Serum, and how she manages a work/life balance. CONGRATS ON THE BIRTH OF YOUR THIRD SON – HOW DO YOU JUGGLE A CAREER WITH MOTHERHOOD?

TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE BUSINESS CHALLENGES YOU HAVE OVERCOME?

“Thank you! It’s definitely a juggle as I’m sure it is for most families, but I love it… I guess for me, the most important thing is making sure that I plan and schedule appropriately. I’m lucky that both the babies, Hart and Myles are pretty good with their sleep routines, so that makes life a little easier. I’m passionate about having a healthy work/life balance and I feel fortunate to be able to balance a career while raising my family – I realise how lucky I am to be able to do both. My family are always top of mind and their needs come first, then I do my best to fit everything else in around them. I have multiple colorcoded calendars and try to schedule in work meetings/calls/etc when the kids are napping, in classes or at school.”

“One of the biggest challenges is being a certified organic brand and educating people about the differences between clean beauty and certified organic beauty because the industry on a global level is unregulated, so there is a lot of greenwashing and false marketing going on. The more educated people are becoming on ingredients and the more people realise what they put on their skin soaks into their bloodstream, the more they are looking for healthier alternatives. Kora is not just healthy, it’s powerful because of the organic ingredients used.”

TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE BUSINESS HIGHLIGHTS WITH KORA?

“There are a few highlights that I’m really proud of, firstly being at the forefront of the clean beauty and having all our products certified organic is a massive accomplishment, and the results our products produce (our consumer study results speak for themselves), but most importantly for me is reading the incredible testimonials we receive on a daily basis from all over the world about how our products are really making a difference to people’s skin, health and confidence.” 48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

WHAT DIRECT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THOSE ON THE SHOP FLOOR, SELLING YOUR PRODUCTS?

“Researching and knowing the difference between the terms clean, natural and certified organic beauty because the industry is unregulated with many false marketing claims. The other would be the misconception that organic may not be as powerful as more conventional beauty products, but certified organic beauty, like Kora, is much more powerful, even than clean beauty. For example, not only are the ingredient crops not being sprayed with chemicals (pesticide/herbicides), the soil that the organic ingredients are grown on have to be nutrient dense and not depleted by continual growth and

Kora Organics is now available in 30 countries around the world. Kora Organics is Certified Organic, which means its products are officially certified by the world’s leading international certification body COSMOS/ECOCERT (COSMOS-standard AISBL). Everything from the soil the ingredients are sourced from, to the packaging and manufacturing process must be approved, validated and audited by COSMOS to ensure it meets certified organic standards and regulations. www.koraorganics.com

harvest – which therefore ensures a higher antioxidant content in the ingredients we are using - and logically produce more powerful results with our products.” WHAT DOES 2020 HAVE IN STORE FOR YOU AND KORA?

“We have just launched the Noni Night AHA Resurfacing Serum. It is a powerful certified organic night treatment serum that uses natural AHAs, BHA and ferments to resurface your skin and increase cellular turnover, leaving you with a smoother more refined complexion. Based on recent consumer studies, 91% of consumers noticed pores appeared smaller, the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation was minimised and that overall skin appeared more youthful. I also have another REALLY exciting product that I’m launching in a few months - I can’t wait to tell you more about it soon!”


RMCA

The expert’s choice for flawless make-up The Research Council of Makeup Artist RCMA - established in 1963 Developed and designed a special foundation formula for professional working makeup artists which he called “Colour Process Foundation.” It is considered the number one choice of foundation by professionals.

To become a stockist sales@scottysmakeup.com.au www.Scottysmakeup.com.au 02 9518 9000 Distributor for RCMA Australia and NZ


INDUSTRY NEWS

01.

02.

It’s Show Time Thousands of hair and makeup enthusiasts turned out for the inaugural The Show Sydney at the International Convention Centre. Co-founder Eliza Campagna caught up with Michelle Ruzzene to chat about the logistics of creating an event that celebrates the best in beauty, makeup, hair and wellbeing from around the world. WHY DID YOU CREATE THE SHOW SYDNEY?

“Scott Lattimer (co-founder) and I created The Show Sydney because we wanted to create a platform to celebrate the incredible professionals in our industry, being that our background is in film, TV, runway, red carpet, celebrity, editorial and education. The Show Sydney is a place for our community to catch up, learn from each other and see what is new and exciting and innovative in the beauty world. A place to celebrate, with like-minded creatives to learn from each other and be inspired and have direct access to brands that they might otherwise overlook.” WHAT HAS THE FEEDBACK BEEN LIKE?

04. 01. Emma Court won the body painting competition and Varvara Naumova was awarded runner-up.

02. Guests browse the show floor. 03. In conversation with Rachel Montgomery. 04. From left Poisonous Pearl the Pirate created by Shylie Parsons and Beatrice Barter created by Li-Sa Choi. 50| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

“The feedback has been extremely positive from both exhibitors and attendees with many already asking for our 2021 dates to put in their calendar. Attendees repeatedly told us how grateful they were for putting this on for them because there is no other event like this. Exhibitors were likewise extremely happy because our audience matched their demographic perfectly, and most importantly, they came to spend!” ANY HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE EVENT?

“Too many to list! One was the incredible Rae Morris, who was supposed to be in

03.

Japan, but instead made a surprise visit to see her assistant, Jenny Roberts, who was holding a masterclass, The Art of Assisting. Rae agreed to step onto the main stage for an interview with Shelly Horton in place of Emmy award winning makeup artist Brian Sipe, who unfortunately pulled out at the last minute as his plane was diverted back to LA following a medical emergency from a fellow passenger on his plane (which we found out about less than 24 hours before The Show was due to start).” SPECIAL SHOUTOUT TO ANYONE?

“Rachel Montgomery, who is in the middle of treating breast cancer. She gave an incredibly real and raw interview on what it’s really like being in the beauty industry and having breast cancer. Her presentation was very moving – she spoke about Look Good Feel Better, which is dedicated to teaching cancer patients how to manage the appearance-related side-effects caused by cancer treatment, and what we can do as a community to contribute.”


05. 05. Social media guru and hairdresser Natalie Anne shares her top tips.

06. Special effects are applied to a model. 07. The winning zombie look in the SFX Showcase Event

06.

created by Jessica Selvaggio.

08. Sarah Laidlaw hosted a Shape and Volume masterclass. 09. Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson in action.

TELL US ABOUT THE COMPETITIONS?

“Our body painting competition was an absolute stand out. We had artists from multiple states fly into Sydney to attend and compete. The fantasy competition entries were stunning from concept to application to design. These competitions embody the creativity we want to foster, nurture and encourage within our industry.” TELL US ABOUT EDUCATION?

“Our master classes were a huge success. Everyone that attended a masterclass was so impressed by the offering and content. Our attendees couldn’t get enough! The talent involved was second to none. Our Show Pro team - Mia Connor, Natalie Anne, Penny Antuar, Jenny Roberts, Chantel Rahme, Lorna Evans, Sarah Laidlaw, Melissa Gigliotti, Julie Tattam, Chereine Waddel – were absolutely incredible.” WHO WAS THE MC?

“Shelly Horton (journalist, TV presenter and owner of ShellShocked Media) – she was the best MC ever. She had the crowd motivated, dancing, and most importantly, they were engaged. Our brands who booked stage time found an influx of business after their slot finished.”

07.

•T he Show Sydney opened its doors to more than 2,500 hair and makeup artists

WHICH EXPERTS WERE ON STAGE?

•G uests had access to over 50 brands and 25 experts

“The line-up of experts hosted by Shelly Horton included Sarah Laidlaw, Natalie Anne, Mia Connor, Sally Obermeder, Dr Ginni Mansberg, Penny Antuar, Chantel Rahme, Lorna Evans, Melissa Gigliotti, Jenny Roberts, Julie Tattam, Chereine Waddel, Rachel Montgomery, Krystal K, Katherine Brown, Damian Martin, Adam Johansen, Antony McMullen, Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson, and Darren Jinks, plus a surprise visit and onstage interview with Rae Morris.”

•M ore than 300 guests attended intimate masterclasses with their hair and makeup idols •T he Show Sydney will be returning in 2021 - stay tuned for dates.

TELL US ABOUT THE BRANDS?

08.

“The brands didn’t disappoint with all offering special deals. Select brands such as Melissa Sassine, Real Techniques, 1000 Hour, Formawell Beauty X Kendall Jenner, Temptu, Ben Nye, Silk Oil Of Morocco, CR Luxury Cosmetics, Sydney College of Hair & Beauty, Egyptian Queen Beauty, Global Colours Body Paint, Renee Touma Makeup, CJP Beauty and Inglot cosmetics also offered attendees immersive beauty experiences on the show floor.” www.theshowsydney.com.au

09.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |51


HEALTH & WELLNESS

Health & Wellness Insider secrets, tips, insights and advice from esprit wellness experts on how to live a healthier life. OLIVIA FERRARI – Masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher DR DOMINIC BURG – Biochemist and systems biologist AV O N DA U R B E N – T h e P e r f e c t V f o u n d e r a n d C E O LAUREN STEINBERG – Queen V founder C A R O L K AV U R M A – G M o f t h e C a n c e r P a t i e n t s Fo u n d a t i o n and Look Good Feel Better 52| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


HAIR LOSS Chemotherapy Post-partum Menopause Thyroid Hormonal imbalances

CLINICAL RESULTS 20% Faster hair growth* | 82% Reduction in hair loss+ | 44% Increase in growing follicles+

SOLUTION REVERSE 3-step system Shampoo - Condition - Activate

Available in all Priceline Pharmacies and online at evolisproducts.com.au *20% faster hair growth was observed in users at 4 months. Double blinded placebo controlled study, Department of Dermatological Science, The University of Tokushima Japan (2007, Maeda et al). + in clinical studies, ĂŠvolisÂŽ has been shown to reduce hair fall and increase the number of actively growing follicles (2017, Burg et al).


Maxin’ relaxin’ Living in a constant state of ‘fight or flight’ is not normal and something can be done. Olivia Ferrari

Stress can manifest in rock-hard shoulders, a stiff neck, headaches and anxiety, but also in digestive issues, impotence, rashes, heart palpitations, stubborn fat, infertility, eczema, memory loss, menstrual pain, mineral deficiency and clumsiness. It can even mimic the symptoms of other dis-eases: especially one that you may be particularly fearful of contracting. If you are aware of being frequently tense yet haven’t addressed it, ask yourself: what is it that is holding you back from addressing your stress levels? Sometimes it’s a case of: where to start? There are easy foolproof ways to reduce your stress and put systems in place that streamline relaxation as your normal – without too much effort. Stress is a state of mental or emotional strain or tension resulting from adverse or demanding circumstance. There are two types of stress: acute (one off, in the moment) and chronic (occurring for some time after the event has concluded). Chronic stress is damaging as you know, but to avoid the negative and keep it simple: it doesn’t feel right and something can be done. Do you relate with the feeling of being too anxious to stop? A great way to alleviate your tension is to match the hyped energy that you are feeling – shadow box, dance vigorously, play loud music on your headphones. Matching the energy you are feeling addresses the challenge head on; you not only acknowledge your state but meet the tension, stress or anxiety where it is and gradually assist it in moving up and out. Ever wondered why break rooms exist? Within this exercise you may notice initially you feel more hyped up, but I assure you to persist, the tense energy will lift.

54| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Now, if we go to the root cause of what is causing your state of dis-ease, answer the simple two minute questionnaire below in chronological order: 1. What areas in your life are causing you stress? Example - going to the gym is overwhelming and makes me feel stressed all day leading up to going. 2. What can you remove? Look at habits, situations, friendships, foods that are no longer serving you or can support you in your new relaxation plan. If you were to see the future relaxed you, what are his/her habits? Be honest and look specifically, keep removing as much as possible. My gym membership, not only can I not afford it but do I not go often and when I do I feel stressed all day long – removed.

There are easy foolproof ways to reduce your stress and put systems in place that streamline relaxation as your normal – without too much effort.

3. T his is your new foundation, sit with this space (enjoy it, it doesn’t mean it will last forever). I feel so much more relaxed not worrying about making it to the gym. 4. Slowly, and perhaps this is after a couple of weeks, the body will adjust and you will feel strong enough to start to rebuild. This may take longer than you initially think. With my spare time I’ve started meditating for 20 mins and walking for an hour in the mornings – this gradually moves to finding a new yoga studio and so on. Take a minute to think about the things you genuinely love doing. Look at things you can do within your resources (i.e not relying on anyone or anything and can be done at any moment during your day) – making a creative tea, calling a friend, listening to a podcast or your favourite comedian, organising your room, baking cookies for a friend, taking a bike ride, soaking in a candlelit bath. Saving these on a list perhaps in your iPhone that you can refer whenever needed – if you’re game a freezing cold shower will be sure to shift your tension. Personally, I love breath work when I am feeling tense. I play loud fast paced music for 10 minutes and I focus on exhaling through my nose as fast as possible without any rhythm or structure.


HEALTH & WELLNESS

Find what works for you: foolproof your life - create a structure and routine that works for you. In my own I have fortnightly massages, daily breathwork and yoga, a full day each week where I have no plans enabling me to relax, reset and enjoy my beautiful Byron home, regular swims at the beach, journaling, nourishing foods, supplements and natural beauty care products to support my body day to day. The feeling of lifting your stress levels has exponential benefits but certainly is a journey. If you imagine your life without a certain person, place or thing and it feels lighter take action to move towards that space. Questions and comments are most welcome: find me on social.

HOW TO REDUCE STRESS • Identify areas of your life that are causing you stress. Take time and space to be with this recognition, before making any amends. • Ask yourself: Can I be with these emotions? • Meditate daily on these areas and dive deeper into what your body might be trying to communicate • Remove/alter and amend any identified areas that are within your power • Create a list of ‘feel good’ activities that you can lean on at any time, ensure these are not dependent on any one/thing else to complete • Schedule weekly ‘me time’ into your calendar - this could be simply doing nothing or having a local massage

Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher. She currently resides in Byron Bay running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For more information visit: oliviaferrariwellness.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |55


HEALTH & WELLNESS

Hormones & hair health When we hear the word ‘hormones’ we tend to think of puberty, menopause, or mood swings. But hormones are far more diverse than most people think and have numerous roles in the body that are essential for our health and wellbeing. By Dr Dominic Burg. Hormone levels fluctuate throughout our lives, sometimes a part of a natural pattern, through illness or disease, because of environmental influences and also due to age, exerting their influence on various systems in our bodies. Peripherally, hormones can also have a strong impact on skin and hair health, and are key contributors to processes such as hair loss. We don’t often think of hormones as aspects of haircare and beauty, so this article will highlight the different types of hormones and how these influence skin and hair throughout our lives. Broadly, hormones in the body can be grouped into a number of main classes including: Sex hormones: these are probably the most well-known and include estrogen, progesterone and testosterone. The sex hormones give rise to gender specific features, drive the onset of puberty and control the menstrual cycle. Sex hormones also influence skin health by regulating oil production and are also critical factors in hair growth and the hair cycle, with the androgens such as testosterone and DHT often driving genetic hair loss in both men and women. Metabolic hormones: these set your metabolic rate, regulate your metabolism and can also affect appetite. The best known are ones like insulin and the thyroid hormones. Thyroid conditions are can be associated with both hair loss and excess hair growth, and systemic changes associated with insulin resistance and diabetes can manifest in hair loss, excess hair growth and an increase in conditions such as psoriasis. 56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Sleep hormones: the most well-known example is melatonin. These regulate your sleep / wake, or circadian, cycle. Melatonin is also thought to act as part of the skins UV defense and as an antioxidant that fights aging associated skin damage. Some evidence also suggests it is also involved in hair growth and hair cycling. Stress hormones: these molecules get your body ready for fight and flight by changing metabolism, powering up the immune system and also regulating blood pressure. Cortisol is probably the best known of these hormones. Chronic stress and elevated stress hormones are also associated with changes in skin and hair as the body takes energy away from these processes for vital function.


Inflammatory hormones: These are collectively known as eicosanoids and are generally involved in infection and disease. However, they can have other functions including induction of labour. A number of these hormones are known to be involved in the way hair grows and cycles and have been implicated in hair loss. Eicosanoid hormones are also an important part of skin repair and maintenance and can have roles in skin disorders such as psoriasis. Over our lifetime our hormonal patterns change as we age and as we respond to our environment. 20’S

In our 20s we often encounter our first major stresses. Many women also start using the contraceptive pill, artificially changing hormone levels which can result in hair loss and skin changes, with breakouts or dry skin being common. Some young men with a genetic susceptibility will begin to lose their hair in their 20’s as DHT levels start to reach their maximums. 30’S

In their thirties, many women have children. Pregnancy, childbirth and breastfeeding profoundly change the hormones in the body, which can impact the hair and skin. Pregnancy is associated with shiny fast growing hair, while the post pregnancy period is characterised by post-partum hair loss, affecting around 60% of women in the months directly after having a baby. The rise in estrogen and progesterone associated with pregnancy also have an influence on the skin, which often appears healthy soft and clear over this time. For men, many in their 30s begin to show the signs of a slow form of androgen associated hair loss. 40’S

The decade of the 40’s is often the most professionally and personally busy for women and men as family and careers compete for time. This leads to increased stress, poor dieting habits and quite often less exercise. The 40’s are also the decade most likely to see a divorce, resulting in high stress levels. We see a reflection of these lifestyle related hormone changes in hair, with hair loss and aging often accelerating in this decade of life 50’S

In the decade of the 50’s metabolism slows, female sex hormones drop in the lead up to menopause, and this is the decade where type two diabetes is most frequently diagnosed in men and women. Skin tends to become much drier as the hormone mediated signaling to oil glands diminishes, hair also becomes drier and more brittle in men and women 60’S AND BEYOND

In the decade of the 60’s menopause in women is complete and metabolism continues to steadily slow, continuing to impact skin and hair health in men and women. With menopause comes a drop in the female hormones (estrogens etc), leading to a relative increase in the influence of testosterone. Testosterone can affect women’s follicles in the same way as in some men, so a proportion of susceptible women will experience an increase in hair loss after menopause. WHAT CAN BE DONE?

DR DOMINIC BURG Biochemist and Systems Biologist Dr Dominic Burg is a biochemist and systems biologist with expertise in hair and scalp biology, particularly hair cycle signaling. An accomplished science communicator with a career spanning academic research and the private sector, Dr Burg is the Chief Scientist for pioneering hair and scalp health leaders évolis®. Dr Burg’s early training was in the medical sciences, focusing on microbiology and immunology, where he graduated first in his class, and equivalent to “summa cum laude”. He went on to pursue an academic career, earning his PhD in protein systems biology at the University of NSW, Sydney, before working in a number of post-doctoral roles internationally, studying the complex changes in physiology and inflammatory biology underlying various health conditions. Dominic transitioned to the private sector, with Australian Biotechnology Company Cellmid Ltd, rapidly rising to become Chief Scientist at évolis® where he has turned his expertise to the complex processes of hair and skin growth, ageing, and cycling, and how these are reflections of overall health and well-being. Dr Burg has published numerous scientific papers and is a respected educator and scientific communicator, as well as a doting father.

Diseases impacting hormones should be controlled with the help of specialist physicians, often once the hormonal imbalance is corrected, hair and skin will improve. Lifestyle associated hormonal changes can be managed by improving habits, exercising regularly, making sure the diet is balanced and reducing stress. If you take these measures it will often be reflected by improvements in your skin and hair. Not much can be done about hormone changes with age, particularly for women, but taking care of lifestyle and ensuring regular exercise, with the help of selected natural and clean beauty products will pay dividends with you skin and hair.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |57


THE FUTURE OF HEALTH, IN YOUR OWN HOME UTI-ME?

You won’t always have symptoms from a UTI, but if you do they could be:

• A strong, persistent urge to urinate A burning sensation when • urinating frequent, small amounts • ofPassing urine Urine • that appears cloudy that appears red, bright pink • orUrine cola-colored — a sign of blood in the urine

U

ntil recently, taking any sort of medical test involved calling up your doctor, making an appointment, visiting the clinic, and then waiting weeks to get your results back. Today’s modern lifestyle however requires a ‘always on’ 24/7 approach to everything, including your health and well being. In the age of Uber and Amazon, it is only natural that home health screening tests be available for use in the comfort of your own home. Nobody requires privacy and comfort more than those suffering from a Urinary Tract Infection (UTI). Urinary Tract Infections are caused by bacteria entering the urinary tract, which leads to an infection in the bladder, urethra or kidneys. If untreated, UTI’s can lead to kidney infection so early diagnosis is key. 1 in 2 women will experience at least one UTI in their lifetime, while 1 in 3 of these women are experiencing a UTI by the age of 24.

Men are not immune with 1 in 20 men experiencing a UTI in their lifetime. Recurrent UTI’s are common with 35% of women experiencing a second UTI within 6 months of their first. Those suffering from diabetes, menopause and liver or kidney complications are even more prone to recurrent infections. Health Alert Urinary Tract Infection(UTI) Home Screening Kits are designed to ensure the privacy to perform a test where suits, at the time most convenience while delivering results in minutes. By performing a home test at first sign of infection, a more serious infection may be avoided. Available in both single and multi-packs for those suffering recurrent UTI’s, Health Alert UTI Home Testing Kit confirms the presence of both leukocytes and nitrite which combined, indicates a UTI. With TGA (Therapeutic Goods Administration) approval and ARTG (Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods) inclusion, Health Alert UTI Home Testing Kit provides peace of mind and confidence as to whether a traditional doctor’s visit is warranted. Simple and easy to use, Health Alert UTI Home Screening Kit requires no

• Strong-smelling urine pain, in women — especially • inPelvic the center of the pelvis and around the area of the pubic bone

medical knowledge or assistance and provides 99% accurate results within 2 minutes. Health Alert UTI Home Screening Kit is the first to market in a range of home testing kits owned and distributed by Frostbland Pty Ltd. Visit healthalert.net.au or call Frostbland on (02) 8709 8600 for more information.

WATER WORKS

The simplest way to prevent a UTI is to flush bacteria out of the bladder and urinary tract before it can set in. It’s no secret that water is good for you. You’re made up of 70% water, so it should come as no big shock that a good way to prevent and ease UTI’s is to flush your system. By drinking plenty of water, you will help to dilute your urine and also help you go to the bathroom more regularly helping your body to naturally flush out bacteria from your urinary tract before infection can occur.


Suspected Urinary Tract Infection?

Don’t delay your health or comfort waiting for appointments Try Health Alert Urinary Tract Infection Home Testing Kit Health ALERT Peace of mind, in the convenience of your own home

3 3 3 3 Available at:

TGA Approved Simple & easy to use No medical knowledge or assistance required Results at home in 2 minutes!

+ www.healthalert.net.au + all good pharmacies


V is for

Vanicure More and more the lines between beauty, health and wellness are becoming blurred. We’ve even seen the creation of a new beauty category, vanicure, which focuses on specifically on beauty for the area ‘down there’. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with The Perfect V founder and CEO Avonda Urben, who had stints at Revlon and L’Oréal in New York before creating the first luxury line of skincare for the V, and Queen V founder Lauren Steinberg, who heads up the female-run and female-focused feminine wellness company specifically focused on vaginal health. WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO START YOUR BUSINESS?

Avonda: “It’s rare to find a true white space but there it was – the V area was previously neglected by the beauty companies. Some personal care companies had some drug store products - usually merchandised on the bottom shelves in the back of the store under feminine care - in big bulky packaging with cutesy or medical sounding names that did not reflect today’s modern women - it was about time women had some other choices. I also saw the global habit women had with removing hair in the bikini area yet there were no skincare products for pre-and-post maintenance. We were relegated to using male products designed for beards! It was an exciting challenge being able to create a beauty regimen for this previously neglected body part.” Lauren: “Queen V takes a really easy and fun approach to a topic that can be super confusing and embarrassing - trust me, I 60| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


HEALTH & WELLNESS

Avonda Urben, Perfect V founder and CEO

If a woman takes care of her beauty needs from head to toe – why not the V too? – Avonda have been there. I have been around vaginas my entire life, not only because I am female but because my dad is a gynaecologist. As I grew older, I began to develop infections ‘down there’, what I refer to as my Queen V. It was scary and painful and really embarrassing. After doing my own research and looking at the ingredients that are in most feminine wellness products, I discovered why I was getting these infections ‘down there’. I wanted to change that. I became frustrated and decided to take matters into my own hands. This is when Queen V really began.” WHY IS THE ‘V’ IMPORTANT WHEN IT COMES TO BEAUTY?

A: “Women want to feel confident naked, in a bathing suit or lingerie - and this area is very important. When you feel good all over, it does result in more positive feeling about oneself. Women do take care of this area and many women remove some hair - there needed to be a pre and post skincare regimen offered. If a woman takes care of her beauty needs from head to toe - why not the V too?” L: “Vaginal care and self-love are so important. Vaginal health needs to be talked about. The vulva (external part) is sensitive and needs to be treated differently than other parts of your body. The vagina is a self-cleanser. As many of us have heard, you shouldn’t douche or ‘clean’ it. It really comes down to cleaning the vulva which remember is extra sensitive. Everyone’s vagina is different and has different needs. Therefore, everyone has a different vaginal care routine. Vaginas are one of the most absorbent body parts and have a pH of 3.8-4.5. Many products on the market can throw your vaginal bacteria off causing infection or irritation and therefore it is important to use products made for your vagina.” HOW HAS THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY CHANGED RECENTLY?

A: “The biggest change of course is social media - smaller brands can now develop a following, get their message out to a smaller yet focused group. It’s so fantastic to have an idea and get it out immediately to your interested consumers. I love the clean beauty movement - it’s been coming for a long time but now that consumers are demanding this - it is moving much more rapidly.” L: “Beauty isn’t just about what you look like anymore. It’s about how you are feeling. For me, beauty is all about confidence. When you feel confident, you feel empowered and like you can take on the world! Self-care is vital to succeeding in whatever you do and making this a priority is extremely powerful.”

Lauren Steinberg, Queen V founder

Self-care is vital to succeeding in whatever you do and making this a priority is extremely powerful. – Lauren WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO BEAUTY ADVISERS ON THE SHOP FLOOR?

A: “The line can be sold like other skincare regimens - this is just for another body part. When we mention the bikini area - that sounds a lot less intimidating and not as personal. Every woman can relate to wanting smooth skin in this area. Some women want to take care of ingrown hairs, red bumps, maybe some heat or chafing in this area. It’s a simple routine, we call it vanicure - cleanse, exfoliate and moisturise. It’s a new regimen for women but they immediately understand it.” L: “Not only is it important to take care of your skin and hair, but it is also important to take care of one of the most sensitive areas of your body, your vagina/vulva. Not everyone feels comfortable talking about this area of their body, so it is important to be sensitive towards this. In addition, if someone does come to you with a question, it is important to note that if there is an issue, they should see their gynaecologist.” www.theperfectv.com www.queenvlife.com

•T he Australia beauty and personal care products market is forecasted to reach USD$6.7 billion by 2025 growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.48% during the forecast period 2020 – 2025, according to Mordor Intelligence. •R evenue in the Beauty & Personal Care market in Australia amounts to US$5920m in 2020 and the market is expected to grow annually by 2.7% (CAGR 2020-2023), according to Statista. The market’s largest segment is the segment Personal Care with a market volume of US$2,477m in 2020. •A bout 75 per cent of women will have vaginal thrush (otherwise known as candidiasis or monilial) in their lifetime, according to the Department of Health & Human Services, state government of Victoria, Australia.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |61


HEALTH & WELLNESS

Celebrating

30 years

of confidence

For 30 years Look Good Feel Better has been helping Australians change their approach to a cancer diagnosis. Backed by the generous support of the cosmetic industry, 150,000 women, men and teens have been able to regain control, their sense of identity, and their emotional wellbeing through the tools and practical tips of the trade provided by the workshops. Carol Kavurma, general manager of the Cancer Patients Foundation and Look Good Feel Better spoke to esprit about the incredible impact the program has had since its inception in 1990. HOW DID LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER COME ABOUT?

Look Good Feel Better started in the USA in 1989. A health professional was working with a depressed cancer patient who was so self-conscious she wouldn’t leave her hospital room, so he approached the president of Carol Kavurma the Personal Care Products Council at the time to organise a makeover for her. The change in the patient was so profound that it became clear there was a need for a service that could be offered to all cancer patients to help them manage the appearance-related side effects of cancer treatment. One year later, the program was brought to Australia by Julie Carriol who had attended one of the first workshops in New 62| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


York, witnessing the same incredible transformation in the other attendees. Julie garnered the support of the cosmetic industry in Australia and the first workshop was held at Westmead Hospital in Sydney in May 1990. Today the program remains a free, national community service program run by the Cancer Patients Foundation and receives no government funding. It’s the generosity of the industry, community and individuals that ensures all Australians undergoing treatment for cancer have access to a Look Good Feel Better workshop and a Confidence Kit, free-of-charge. WHAT HAPPENS IN A LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER WORKSHOP?

It’s the generosity of the industry, community and individuals that ensures all Australians undergoing treatment for cancer have access to a Look Good Feel Better workshop and a Confidence Kit, free-of-charge.

The workshops run for 2.5 hours and are very practical in nature. Our team of trained volunteers start with a skincare demonstration covering cleansing, toning, moisturising and sun protection to address common treatment side-effects like dryness and sun sensitivity. We then move on to make-up, demonstrating techniques to help correct and conceal common concerns like redness, sallowness, pigmentation and dark circles, as well as demonstrating techniques for mapping eyebrows and giving the illusion of eyelashes for those who have experienced hair loss. Finally, we look at the range of headwear options available and provide tips for scarf styling, demonstrate different types of wigs in terms of construction and style, and talk through wig care. Each participant receives a complimentary Confidence Kit full of skincare and make-up products generously donated by the cosmetic industry, and an instruction booklet. These are used as tools throughout the workshop and are then taken home for continued use. WHY IS ATTENDING A LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER WORKSHOP WORTHWHILE?

Because most of our 1000 volunteers are beauty or hairdressing trained, the workshops give our participants the confidence to manage the changes they are experiencing to their appearance by empowering them with professional knowledge and very practical techniques. This knowledge helps them feel more confident and in control at a time when so many things are, unfortunately, out of their control. Participants often walk into the room looking apprehensive, uncertain and self-conscious and walk out 2.5 hours later smiling, looking confident and feeling good about themselves again. Everything we cover in the workshop is manageable for all skill levels – the techniques aren’t overwhelming, and everything is broken down in a way that means it’s very easy to replicate time and time again. And anyone who is experiencing appearance-related side effects caused by any type of treatment for any type of cancer can attend a workshop, so the program is very inclusive and supportive. Time and time again we hear that the opportunity to meet others in a similar situation helps our participants realise they’re not alone, and is a big part of why the program is so successful at providing a boost to confidence. Our most recent Global Satisfaction Survey collected data from more than 26,000 program participants across 16 countries. The results prove that we consistently deliver a valuable experience and have a positive impact on women undergoing cancer treatment, regardless of country or culture. The number of survey respondents who felt ‘very’ or ‘somewhat’ confident in their appearance rose from just 50 percent before attending a workshop to 92 percent following workshop participation. 96 percent of respondents found value in the program to improve self-image and 97 percent around the world indicated they found support through the Look Good Feel Better experience. An incredible 98 percent of respondents would recommend Look Good Feel Better to other women with cancer. These results, year after year, confirm for us that the program truly does work. The unfortunate reality is that everybody knows somebody who

is dealing with, or has dealt with a cancer diagnosis. It doesn’t only affect the individual; it affects their family, friends, colleagues everyone in their life. Seeing someone you know and love completely change both physically and emotionally because of the often ravaging side-effects of cancer treatment is difficult. So to give them the ability to shift the focus from their illness and their treatment and learn how to help themselves feel a little better through taking control of their appearance makes the workshops so worthwhile - for the participants and for everyone in their lives. HOW CAN OUR READERS GET INVOLVED?

As we celebrate our 30th anniversary this year, we ask the beauty industry to Celebrate Confidence with us and commit to helping us make a difference to the estimated 1 in 2 Australians who will be diagnosed with cancer this year. Our mission is to ensure every cancer patient has access to our services and the opportunity to receive our support, if they wish to. There are three main ways organisations and individuals can support our work: • Tell anyone and everyone about us. The beauty industry is one of such powerful connections with people from every walk of life. The more people talk about us, the more people know we exist, and the more people we can help. It’s as simple as that. • Volunteer with us. We are always looking for qualified professionals who are confident in presenting and demonstrating to join our team across the country. Our service simply can’t run without the help of our knowledgeable, dedicated volunteers. • Donate. The program relies on product and financial donations to continue to run free-of-charge for cancer patients.

To register for a workshop, to apply to volunteer, or to show support in other ways visit lgfb.org.au or phone 1800 650 960. And don’t forget Facebook and Instagram - @LGFBAustralia.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |63



For stocklist enquires please email mal.mcneilly@potterandmoore.com or call Mal McNeilly 0409934980.


01.

From seed to skin

There’s no doubt Ulrike and Jurgen Klein, pioneers of the natural skincare movement and Jurlique founders, were ahead of their time. Michelle Ruzzene visits the Jurlique HQ and farm to experience firsthand their ‘seed to skin’ philosophy. When looking for a place to settle and set up shop with their four children back in 1983, Ulrike and Jurgen Klein decided to relocate from Germany to Australia. They chose the Adelaide Hills where the air, the soil, and the climate were far superior to almost everywhere else on earth. Just two years later, in 1985, Ulrike, a horticulturalist and botanist who specialised in growing healing herbs and Jurgen, a biochemist and naturopath, set up an organic herb farm and began making allnatural plant-based beauty products – it was the birth of Jurlique. Since then, the company has changed drastically, harnessing the power of nature into a multimillion-dollar, international empire. (Read more with our interview with Jurlique MD for international markets, Benoit Wagner, on page 16.) I was fortunate enough to be invited on a two-day tour of the Jurlique head office and working farm, to see for myself how concentrated botanicals and pioneering formulas were created from a unique piece of land. First stop – Jurlique Oaklands Park, where I was treated to a Jurlique facial. The sensory spa experience addressed all my five senses to make it truly unique. “What really makes our spa and retail experience special is we try to bring to life the farm elements as much as possible,” Jurlique national education manager Charlotte Lyon explained. “When someone arrives for a treatment, they are given an herbal tea made from biodynamic herbs in hot water. Our beauty therapists then analyse each individual’s skin to ensure they can select the right combination of pure essential oils and high-performance formulations to best bring out their skin’s natural radiance.” 66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

JURLIQUE’S BIO-INTRINSIC METHOD Distillation – dried plants are distilled to extract volatile oils soluble compounds (essential oils) Percolation – plants are soaked and filtered to extract water soluble compounds Ashing – plants are burnt to ash from which minerals and trace elements are extracted Reunify – recombine distillate, percolate and ash extract. More powerful and potent extract obtained. No waste

The name Jurlique was created after the two founders, husband and wife team Ulrike and Jurgen, combined their names to make one.


FEATURE 02.

My therapist used the new Nutri-Define Supreme range for my treatment, which included a precious stone massage with cool jade rollers and warm rose quartz crystals to tone and replenish. Afterwards my skin felt luminous and supple – total bliss. Next stop was a trip to the Jurlique HQ , where Charlotte spoke in depth about the farm and the concept of biodynamics, followed by an interactive demonstration by formulation research and development manager Valerie Laviolette, who explained the extraction methods, the product formulations and concepts of advanced natural skincare. From there, it was time to check into one of the stunning new Sequoia suites at Mount Lofty House with a welcome glass of the house sparkling – the Mount Lofty House Sequoia Chardonnay Pinot Noir, made from pinot noir and chardonnay grown on the estate – followed by an exclusive ‘valley to verandah’ dining experience with 3-chef hat deliciousness at Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant. The next day, it was time to visit the farm. According to data from the World Health Organisation, the air quality in the Adelaide Hills is rated among the very best on earth, and breathing it in under the bright, unblemished sky, it was easy to believe. Farm manager Cherie Hutchinson led the tour, educating the group on what went into harvesting and growing Jurlique’s array of plants, how bio dynamic farming improved the effectiveness of the plants and the benefits of each ingredient to the skin. One of the most unique ingredients Jurlique uses is the spilanthes. Native to Brazil and traditionally known as the ‘toothache plant’, we all had the chance to chew it and test out its mouth-numbing properties. In addition to having a soothing effect on the skin, the spilanthes can also promote skin’s collagen production by up to 46 percent, Cherie said, which is why it was a key ingredient in the new antiageing Nutri-Define Supreme range. Cherie also stressed the importance of Jurlique’s bio-dynamic farming principles, which uses the sun, moon, stars and planets of earth to bring about balance and healing. She said plants were harvested exclusively on days that aligned with the appropriate moon cycle. ​ Following the in-depth tour, a lunch inspired by all the ingredients on the farm was served on the lawn, before we had a chance to pick some Jurlique roses, grown and hand-harvested on the organic farm. From there, it was time to head back to the airport and home to Sydney, armed with a much deeper understand and appreciation of the magic Ulrike and Jurgen Klein created with their high performing, natural-based, sustainable products in the Jurlique range.

03.

01. The Jurlique farm is a tourist

JURLIQUE’S PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS Plant research Plant extraction Extract testing Formulation development Stability and safety Clinical trials

attraction in Biggs Flat, Adelaide.

02. Jurlique farm manager Cherie Hutchinson

03. Gina Nixon, director and founder of Brand Etc, Jurlique’s PR agency, in the drying room on the farm.

04. esprit editor Michelle Ruzzene and esprit contributor and influencer Icy Ling jump for joy in the roses.

04.

ITINERARY: Day 1: • Arrive Adelaide airport • Spa treatment at nominated Jurlique store • Company presentation at Jurlique International, Mt Barker • Check in at Mt Lofty House, a designer boutique hotel in the Adelaide Hills • Welcome drinks Mt Lofty Fountain • Cellar door tour • Dinner at 3-chef hat Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant Day 2: • Jurlique Farm tour, Biggs Flat • Luncheon on the lawn, with menu inspired by Jurlique ingredients • Depart Adelaide airport

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |67


Mother’s Day Mother’s Day is one of the biggest gift buying events of the year. We’ve rounded up some of the best limited edition gift packs, fragrances and general beauty essentials for the unsung heroes of everyday life.

02. 03.

01.

05.

04.

01. Burt’s Bees Love Your Skin - includes 3-in-1 Micellar Makeup Removing

06.

04. Palm Beach Collection Teak & Amber Standard Soy Candle, RRP $42.95

Towelettes with Rosewater, Micellar Toning Water with Rosewater and Strawberry Lip Balm, RRP $19.99 www.burtsbees.com.au and www.bigw.com.au

05. Ecoya Autumn Limited Edition Fragranced Diffuser in Black Violet, RRP $49.95

02. Alpha-H Anniversary Collection – includes Balancing Cleanser Rose, Liquid

06. Aveda Cherry Almond Softening and Detangling Set - includes full size Cherry

Gold Rose and Liquid Gold Rose Perfect and Plump, RRP $25 www.alpha-h.com

03. Clinique Perfectly Happy – includes Happy Perfume Spray 50ml, Happy Body Cream and Happy Purse Spray, RRP $82 www.clinique.com.au

68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

www.palmbeachcollection.com.au www.ecoya.com.au Almond Shampoo and Conditioner, travel size Cherry Almond Hand Relief and detangling comb, RRP $45 www.aveda.com.au


MOTHER’S DAY

08.

07.

10.

09.

11. 12.

13.

07. Chloe Nomade Absolu De Parfum 50ml, RRP $150, www.myer.com.au and www.davidjones.com

08. In Essence Harvest Deluxe Diffuser Gift Pack – includes two of In Essence’s most loved pure essential oils, Rose Otto and Bergamot, and a mini woodgrain diffuse, RRP $74.95 www.inessence.com.au

09. Napoleon My Number One Limited-Edition Nude Lip Set, RRP $49 www.napoleonperdis.com

10. Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask Set Instant Youth & Luminous Glow – includes

11. Nude by Nature - Complete Complexion includes Limited Edition Mineral Cover (Light/Medium, Medium), Moisture Shine Lipstick (08 Garnet/03 Dusty Rose), Allure Defining Mascara 01 Black, Mini Kabuki Brush and Limited Edition Pink Square Cosmetic Bag, RRP $59.95 www.nudebynature.com.au

12. Jo Malone Lavender & Musk Diffuser, RRP $127 www.jomalone.com.au 13. Trilogy Limited Edition Rosehip Rituals Skincare Kit – includes Trilogy Rosehip Transformation Cleansing Oil, Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil Roller and Trilogy Eye Contour Cream, RRP $39.95 www.trilogyproducts.com.au

Black Rose Cream Mask, Eau Efficace, Black Rose Infusion Cream, Hydra Global Serum, presented in an ecofriendly Sisley giftbox, RRP $200 www.sisley.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |69


OUT & ABOUT

01.

MIRACLE WORKERS LUNCH FOR NAPOLEON PERDIS The event was created as a celebration of the importance of foundation to the Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics brand, accounting for around 50% of its total business. Henry Lee, CEO, Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics, took media guests through the foundations of the new company at Apollo, Potts Point, explaining a little about Napoleon Perdis, the journey to date. He said him and his acquisition partner, Livia Wang, who is also director and CEO of Access Corporate Group, saw the potential of the cult makeup brand, that 12 months ago was in dire straits.

01.

THE SEPHORA EDIT Media and influencers heard all about the new and exclusive brands and products hitting its shelves this year at The Sephora Edit Exclusive Brand Showcase. Held at Sydney Lower Ground Town Hall, guests were able to get up close and personal with many of the brand’s founders. Dr Roebucks and Ultra Violette were among the homegrown Aussie brands at the event. Ultra Violette co-founder Ava Matthews told esprit she and business partner Bec Jefferd wanted to “create a range of facial sunscreens that looked beautiful, spoke to you in a way you could understand, felt so nice to wear, contained some great ingredients and really played well with the rest of your skincare and makeup products”.

02.

03. 04.

Photos: Hatrik House.

01. Ultra Violette founders Ava Matthews and Bec Jefferd.

02. The Sephora Edit was Photos: Esteban La Tessa.

01. Sophie Kalofonos with esprit publisher Nicci Herrera.

02. The Napoleon Perdis dream team - Chelsea Khoury, Sophie Kalofonos, Amanda Bland, Henry Lee, Chloe Schoemaker, Kate Squires and Nathan Kake.

03. Martha Kalifatidis and Nathan Kake. 04. Influencer Joanne Phua.

70| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

packed with new brand and product launches.

03. Queen V founder Lauren Steinberg

04. Marc Jacobs Beauty southeast Asia regional artistry ambassador and esprit contributor Michael Brown.

05. The Youth to the People stand was colourful and eye-catching.

05.


01.

FIRMING AND STRENGTHENING ON THE MENU FOR CLARINS

01.

BIOSSANCE BINGO

To celebrate the latest launch from Clarins, media were invited to a firming and strengthening boxing session at Shelter in Sydney’s Double Bay. Charlotte Turner, head of trainings, spoke about the brand’s latest launch - Clarins Extra-Firming Neck & Décolleté - and its focus on the sunflower. Also in attendance was general manager Helen Moreno, digital and social media manager Chelsea Cleary and digital and social media specialist Betty Wu.

President of Biossance Catherine Gore and Biossance celebrity ambassador Jonathan Van Ness arrived Down Under to celebrate the launch of three new beauty products in the range - Squalane + Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum, Rose Vegan Lip Balm and Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream. The event was held at The Botanic House, within Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens. Television personality, podcaster, comedian and beauty expert to the stars Van Ness, talked of his role in Biossance’s education initiative, The Clean Academy, his favourite beauty products, including Biossance’s Squalane + Omega Repair Moisturiser, as well as his passion of sustainability. Photos: Jack Henry. 01. President of Biossance Catherine Gore and Biossance celebrity ambassador Jonathan Van Ness share a laugh on stage.

02..

OUT & ABOUT

01.

02. National artistry lead at Sephora Australia Alphie Sadsad

03. Biossance celebrity ambassador Jonathan Van Ness.

04. Guests were given a game of Biossance Bingo to play.

LIGHTEST, FASTEST HAIR DRYER UNVEILED BY GHD

ghd launched its latest innovation in hair to media with a cocktail party at Bar M in Rushcutters Bay. The hair dryer range, named helios, is the brand’s lightest and fastest hair dryer collection and is available in four colours. Ludovic Dellazzeri, managing director, ghd Australia and New Zealand, gave a speech at the event, followed by national education manager Grant Norton. An expert panel consisting of Marie Uva, owner of Uva Salon, Monique McMahon, owner of Que Salon and Jules Tognini, owner of Togninis, then held an interactive Q and A. “Working with the ghd helios, being so lightweight, and using the different heat and speed ratios you have all these options which give you more styling control,” Jules told esprit, while Monique said “I don’t think I’ve ever used a hairdryer with that amount of speed or force of air coming out from the nozzle”.

02.

02.

03. 01. Marie Uva,

03.

Monique McMahon, Grant Norton and Jules Tognini.

04.

02. Hairdresser and social media star Natalie Anne.

01. From left general manager Helen Moreno, head of training Charlotte Turner, digital and social media manager Chelsea Cleary and digital and social media specialist Betty Wu.

03. Identical twins

02. Following the event, guests feasted on a healthy

04.

breakfast.

03. The guests were given an intense boxing workout. 04. Infleuncer and esprit contributor Icy Ling packs a punch.

and Australian Youtuber’s Olivia and Ashley Mescia.

04. Beauty influencer Rachael Brook.

03.

04.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |71


OUT & ABOUT

01.

01.

01.

DARK, FAST LAUNCH FOR BONDI SANDS

FINE FRAGRANCES ON SHOW AT ADP

LUMIRA PARFUM POP UP

Media and influencers, including brand ambassador Steph Claire Miller (nee Smith) gathered for lunch at Bondi Icebergs to hear all about Bondi Sands’ latest launch – the Aero Ultra Dark. Co-founder of Bondi Sands, Blair James, said the company wanted to generate more money for the bushfire appeal, which is where the Reuse to Rebuild campaign idea was born. For the campaign, Bondi Sands have created two reusable frank green products, a coffee cup and water bottle, available to buy online, with 100% of proceeds donated to the Red Cross to support bushfire relief.

Fragrance enthusiasts and media were invited to Libertine Parfumerie in Sydney’s Darlinghurst to be briefed on Agence De Parfum’s season update for winter 2020. Guests were able to have a sneak peek of the new launches, including a ‘whiff’ of each one, as Agence de Parfum national education manager Michael Marzano gave an overview of each brand and product. Michael spoke in depth about brands including Carrière Frères, Creed, Ormonde Jayne, Montale, Hermetica, bdk Parfums, Rance, Liquides Imaginaires, Maison Crivelli, Mizensir, Compagnie De Provence, Penhaligon’s, Grandiflora, Clive Christian, Musgo Real, Lola James Harper, Juliette Has a Gun and more.

A Lumira Parfum pop-up was held at MCM House in Paddington where founder Almira Armstrong educated guests on the exciting upcoming brand activity and the new parfums. Speaking exclusively to esprit at the event, Almira said when she launched the brand in 2013, niche fragrance was still a relatively new concept. “When we launched people didn’t really understand niche fragrance or unisex fragrance,” she said. “All of our parfums are unisex. It’s a nice and beautiful way of sharing fragrance with someone.” In addition to the parfums there are home fragrances, including room sprays and candles, and perfume oils available. Photos: Bright Photography 01. esprit editor Michelle Ruzzene with Lumira founder Almira Armstrong.

02. Arianne Witt smells one of the fragrances 03. One of the five parfums showcased. 04. The pop up event was held at MCM House, Paddington.

02.

02. 02. 03.

Photos: Esteban La Tessa.

01. Brand ambassador Steph Claire Miller (nee Smith).

03.

02. Co-founder of Bondi Sands, Blair James, addresses the room.

03. Professional Beauty’s Hannah Gay and esprit editor Michelle Ruzzene.

03. 01. Guests study the fragrance notes 02. Agence de Parfum national education

04. Husskie founder Yelena Fairfax with founder of Rescu and esprit contributor Bahar Etminan.

manager Michael Marzano.

04.

72| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

03. Some of the products showcased in the winter 2020 update.

04.


BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business and career. C AT H E R I N E G O R E – p r e s i d e n t o f B i o s s a n c e THE SEPHORA BUYERS CHRISTIAAN HOBSON – business development director L’ O r é a l T r av e l R e t a i l P a c i f i c A I N S L I E WA L K E R – s c e n t d e s i g n e r AC C O R D A U S T R A L A S I A E M I LY B E N C I C – e d i t o r a t R e t a i l B i z

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |73


BUSINESS

Raising the clean beauty bar Catherine Gore has always been a pioneer in the beauty world – she built Marc Jacobs Beauty from concept to development and then launched the brand in more than 22 countries and was one of Sephora USA’s first hires and a member of EllesVMH, a select group of female executives within LVMH. Catherine was then appointed president of Biossance, a brand founded five years ago by Amyris, a biotechnology company funded by the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. The beauty leader shares her vision of clean beauty for all with Michelle Ruzzene. HOW DID BIOSSANCE COME ABOUT?

“In 2003, our parent company, Arymis, and their scientists developed patented technology that created an accessible cure for malaria. Today, more than 120 million royalty-free treatments have been successfully given thanks to this technology. Inspired to continue using innovative biotechnology to make a positive impact on the world, we turned Catherine Gore to skincare—and the ingredients people put on their faces and bodies every day. Drawing on a rich history of science and sustainability, we create skincare that is incredibly effective and safe without harming the environment or animals.” CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT SOME BUSINESS HIGHLIGHTS AT BIOSSANCE?

“I’m really proud that we are leading in the area of clean beauty. We want to ensure we are constantly raising our standards so companies around us also follow. One of our pivotal moments was the introduction of The Clean Academy, which helps consumers better navigate the clean beauty space, which can be very overwhelming. Guided by Biossance brand ambassador Jonathan 74| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Van Ness, as well as scientists, environmental activists, and more, The Clean Academy content simplifies complex concepts and ingredients so that everyone has the power to make smart choices, no matter where they are on their clean beauty journey.” WHAT ARE SOME CHALLENGES FACED ALONG THE WAY?

“Because our standards for clean beauty are high, product formulations can take a longer timeframe from concept, development to availability on the shelf. Also, because we are a sustainable brand, we choose to practice in a way that doesn’t harm the earth. That can be inclusive of ingredient derivation, conscious packaging, and planet-first processes like low water usage. There are still always ways we can improve this aspect of our business, so we are constantly working towards developing better practices and processes as a company to ensure that we are continuing to lead in this area.” WHAT’S DRIVING THE TREND IN CLEAN BEAUTY?

“Consumers have become more aware of what they are putting in their bodies and on their skin and therefore looking for and supporting companies that are transparent about their ingredients, packaging, sourcing and creation process. They are actively arming themselves with the knowledge to make better decisions, reading labels and being mindful about their purchases.” BIGGEST CONSUMER MISCONCEPTIONS WHEN IT COMES TO CLEAN BEAUTY?

“People often associate ‘synthetic’ with ‘bad’, but it’s not that simple. Long-chain parabens, for example, are synthetic ingredients that are proven to be harmful for human health. However, with new technology we’ve created an amazing category of ‘clean synthetic’ ingredients - innovative lab-created ingredients often proven to be safer, more sustainable and more effective. A few of our favourites are hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and our sugarcane-derived squalane.” www.biossance.com



Buyers Lists With nearly 300 brands on shelves, along with its own private label, the Sephora buyers must have a tough - but incredibly amazing - job picking their favourite retail beauty products. Michelle Ruzzene caught up with some members of the Sephora buying team who shared with esprit the products they can’t live without.

SOPHIE WAYMAN - HEAD OF CATEGORY

Arcona Triad Pads: Genuinely the best and most versatile skincare product I own – and there is no better makeup remover out there. These allSophie Wayman in-one pads remove makeup, cleanse, tone all in one go, and are packed with vitamins and fatty acids so you know they aren’t just stripping the skin, so you’re not sacrificing your skincare for convenience. Marc Jacobs Velvet Noir: Mascara is my go-to colour product and I have tried 76| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

them all. We’ve seen so many new mascaras launch but still nothing beats Marc Jacobs Beauty for the blackest-black formula while also giving great volume with staying power. Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation: On the more expensive end of the foundations we stock, but in my opinion worth every cent. The formula has a serum-like consistency, with ingredients that help to hydrate, blur, and smooth the skin, giving you a flawless finish, instantly.

KAREN STYLES - CATEGORY MANAGER, COLOUR AND FRAGRANCE

Nudestix Tinted Cover Foundation: My go-to foundation for a light weight, buildable and natural finish. The formula features Korean skincare and natural Karen Styles active ingredients that help to moisturise and hydrate, while the lightweight tinted mineral pigments blend with your natural skin tone and texture rather than sitting on top. Go a shade deeper to add more depth to the skin without needing to add bronzer.


CAITLAN WYER - CATEGORY EXECUTE, SKINCARE, HAIRCARE, WELLNESS

Youth To People Kombucha +11% AHA Exfoliation Power Toner: I love this as an overnight resurfacing and hydrating treatment Caitlan Wyer because it is effect and natural but isn’t harsh on your skin. I wake up with soft, hydrated, plump and bright skin. The great thing about this is you can build up to every night use and it won’t react or hurt your skin – it just gets better and better. Tarte Shape Tape Glow Wand: I use this on the apples of my cheeks, check bones, over the top of my foundation as an illuminating blush or bronzer for a flawless glow. The texture isn’t too thick and is dewy so makes the skin texture smooth and not cakey. Since using this I get lots of comments about how clear and good skin looks. Sephora Collection Cream Lip Stain: By far the favourite lip product I have ever used, and believe me, I’ve tried a lot. One try with this and I was hooked. The formula goes on smoothly and stays all day without drying out. My favourite colours are #78 Chilli Pea which is an orange red and #13 Marvellous which is a dark nude. CHERIE BESLICH - BUYER AND ASSISTANT BRAND MANAGER SEPHORA COLLECTION

Sephora Collection Outrageous Plump Lip Gloss: The super hydrating formula not only plumps but provides a glossy shine that is comfortable on the lips. Enriched with sunflower, peppermint and ginger oil, my go to shades are 01 Universal

and 02 Nude. It’s the one product I can’t live without - I have it in my car, beside my bed, on my desk. Ultra-Violette Supreme Screen Cherie Beslich SPF 50+ Hydrating Facial Sunscreen: This product is a god send, it sits seamlessly underneath foundation and keeps my skin dewy and hydrated all day long, without that nasty sunscreen smell. Since discovering this gem, I haven’t left the house without applying, I’m now onto my second tube. SPF is a step not to be missed in any routine. IT Cosmetics CC Cream: I’ve tried a lot of foundations over the course of my time and nothing quite compares to this CC cream. It’s full coverage yet feels extremely light on the skin, with added SPF 50+ and anti-aging properties it’s hard to beat. Buff into the skin for a flawless finish that doesn’t require setting and won’t budge.

We’ve seen so many new mascaras launch but still nothing beats Marc Jacobs Beauty for the blackest-black formula while also giving great volume with staying power. – Sophie Wayman

BUSINESS

Ouai Volumizing Hair Spray: Ouai can do no wrong. The Volumizing Hair Spray provides volume to my otherwise naturally dead straight and flat hair without the need for using hot tools every day. Fresh Soy Face Cleanser: Soothing and gentle everyday cleanser that removes all make up and impurities.

Ultra-Violette Supreme Screen SPF 50+ Hydrating Facial Sunscreen: This product is a god send, it sits seamlessly underneath foundation and keeps my skin dewy and hydrated all day long, without that nasty sunscreen smell. Since discovering this gem, I haven’t left the house without applying, I’m now onto my second tube. – Cherie Beslich ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |77


MY JOURNEY

Christiaan Hobson

Business development director, L’Oréal Travel Retail Pacific

Final boarding call by Elisabeth King

We catch up with the highly respected senior executive in the Australian beauty and retail industries. Travel retail is one of the fastest-growing distribution channels for fragrances and cosmetics. Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO of L’Oréal, was a driving force in creating the multinational’s group travel retail division in 2013 and the strategy has paid off handsomely. L’Oréal’s global travel retail revenues increased by 25.3 per cent for the full year 2019 and exceeded 2 billion euros (US$2.2 billion) for the first time. The Chinese are the top spenders in travel retail worldwide and China is Australia’s number one source of international tourists. The leading global travel retail operators, including Heinemann, Korean giant Lotte and France-based Lagardere, are major players in Australia and are enjoying booming sales nationwide. Last November, Christiaan Hobson was appointed the first business development director, L’Oréal Travel Retail Pacific. A highly respected senior executive in the Australian beauty and retail industries, Hobson’s expertise in luxury cosmetics and fragrances gives him a head start to boost L’Oréal’s share of the dynamic travel retail market in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific. Hobson’s first career choice was far removed from the beauty business. “I enrolled in an education and arts degree at the University of New South Wales and had worked at a leading Grace Bros department store in the men’s fashion department during high school 78| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

and uni. Because of my relationships within the department store chain, Estée Lauder offered me a job at Grace Bros Roselands as a counter manager. I had no interest in a career in beauty, but Lauder was rolling out automatic replenishment at the time and wanted someone with proven retail skills.” The opportunity proved to be a defining one and within six months Hobson moved to Grace Bros Chatswood. “The store had been Lauder’s number one door and had slipped to number two. My challenge was to reclaim the leading position. I achieved the goal and was awarded the company’s Counter Manager of the Year award. I was then offered the position of account executive and trainer - Travel Retail Oceania. My degree in education really helped in the new role and so did my sales experience. For the next four years, I worked across the Estée Lauder, Aramis and Designer Fragrances and Origins brands”. Australia was very focused on the Japanese tourist market in the early noughties, says Hobson. “I learned a lot about marketing when I moved to my next role with Estée Lauder - area sales manager Travel Retail Oceania. My eight years with such a progressive company as Estée

Lauder really honed my sales, marketing and training skills and knowledge of the prestige beauty industry”. Then Bulgari came calling. The opportunity arrived at the right time, says Hobson. “I was assessing my options of staying with Lauder or making a change. At the time, Bulgari was running its own show as a direct subsidiary in fragrances and I became the area sales manager Travel Retail Oceania, Guam, Saipan and India, reporting to the regional office in Hong Kong. The position was a great experience for me and greatly enlarged my skillset as I had to be a jack-of-all-trades across sales, marketing and training. My experience with Japanese tourists was vital as Guam was Bulgari’s biggest travel retail location at the time. I doubled the size of Bulgari’s business in my region and launched the brand in India.” In 2006, Hobson relocated to the US as vice president sales North America for Bulgari. “It was a huge learning curve and my responsibilities covered the whole of the US and Canada. Every retailer saw their business as different and I had to deal with so many buying offices. The experience was exciting and extraordinary. But when the GFC hit in 2008 luxury businesses took


MY JOURNEY

a major hit and Bulgari reduced its head count and operations in North America.” Hobson returned to Australia in 2010 following his six-year stint with Bulgari to take up the position of national sales manager, ANZ, for Burt’s Bees. “The brand was sold exclusively in David Jones. My job was to develop the sales and education team and expand distribution. During my time with the business, Burt’s Bees entered Myer and Priceline stores and we developed a product for Qantas. The first time the brand had extended into travel retail.” But luxury is Hobson’s natural stamping ground and he was approached by Mette Engell, then general manager of Parfums Christian Dior, and now managing director ANZ for Coty. “She was looking for a sales director and I jumped at the chance to be part of LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group. Dior also has a three axes business across fragrance, skincare and cosmetics. Mette is a one-in-a-million mentor and the position really accelerated my development. The Dior team was great and I worked closely with both Myer and David Jones.” Hobson joined David Jones in 2016 as buyer - designer beauty and fragrance. “There were so many wonderful personalities at DJs from fashion industry icon, Donna Player, to Sophie Kalofonos, now director, Retail Merchants Group. I worked with the cream of brands - Chanel, Dior, YSL and Giorgio Armani. During my time with designer beauty, the business doubled. My next position, buying manager beauty, brought me into contact with the most respected brands in the prestige

skincare business - la Prairie, Lancôme and, of course, Estee Lauder. In total, I was with David Jones for over four years, including the relocation of head office staff from Sydney to Melbourne.” On his return to Sydney, Hobson became category and purchasing manager, perfume and cosmetics, for Heinemann Australia. But late last year, he was appointed business development director, L’Oréal Travel Retail Pacific. “It was a dream come true. The role was first introduced in China last year and this is a new position in the Australasian market and only the second in the world. Working with some of the most storied brands in beauty and fragrance from Lancôme to Giorgio Armani and SkinCeuticals is an amazing privilege.” L’Oréal Luxe is one of the fastestgrowing divisions within the multinational as a whole and in travel retail. All its “magic” brands from Lancôme to Kiehl’s enjoyed double-digit growth in 2019, with sales increasing 13.8 per cent to US$12.07 billion. “We are working with the biggest names in international travel retail such as Lagardere, Lotte and Heinemann, who are looking for that extra POD. My job is to bring all the functions together across sales, finance and marketing. The Asia/Pacific area is L’Oréal’s number one regional zone and there’s still enormous potential in travel retail.” www.loreal.com.au

Working with some of the most storied brands in beauty and fragrance from Lancôme to Giorgio Armani and SkinCeuticals is an amazing privilege. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |79


BUSINESS

AINSLIE WALKER TALKS

Niche Fragrance News

SCENT-SATIONAL Celebrated Sydney perfumer Ainslie Walker was chosen to create beautifully scented fragrances for Country Road, using ingredients inspired by the Australian landscape. Ainslie shares her journey with esprit. Country Road is one of Australia’s largest and most renowned lifestyle brand. Last year the company celebrated its 50th anniversary, illustrating their huge success and iconic status in Australia and New Zealand’s shopping climate. I have been incredibly fortunate to have become their “go-to” perfumer over the past 16 months, developing and delivering a bespoke niche scent project which has resulted in two unique signature scents. Inspired by the Country Road brand, fused with the Australian landscape, these scents are now available within a collection of minimally packaged lifestyle products and used within all stores through ambient scent machines. The fragrances, Linen and Driftwood, depict unique snapshots of Australian

80| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

landscapes and scenes. They contain highquality raw materials and, where possible, of Australian origin. The collection includes, in each scent, four luxury-sized candles in gorgeous white, textured ceramic vessels, hand cream, body lotion, body wash and hand lotion, in minimal stylish white packaging designed by the Country Road team. Linen quickly became the signature scent with more than 50 stores using it as their inhouse scent through ambient scent machines for scent marketing purposes. The fragrance is fresh and full of quality essential oils and described on the packaging: ‘Infused with macadamia flower, fresh mint and clean linen. Taking notes from the cool air of Tasmania, rounded with woody

elements of boronia flower and a subtle hint of jasmine.’ The hand cream sold out in a matter of weeks in store and online and new stock is already in production. Driftwood fragrance illustrates tension between warmth and fresh. In my first presentation to Country Road I described it as feeling to me like whales on migration down the eastern coast – warm bodies gliding against the deep, dark, fresh rush of saltwater going past. On the packaging we describe it as: ‘Crisp ocean air meets rich, warm notes of amber and driftwood. Inspired by the Eastern coastline, where the breeze from the sea rolls over the nearby hinterland.’ The project commenced in late 2018 when I met with the Country Road development team regularly over the summer, in order to establish their needs and introduce them to unique Australian ingredients such as boronia, buddha wood and blue cypress. I showed them mood boards with the visual direction for scent I recommended for the brand. At the time the idea was to create one signature scent for the brand to use instore through ambient scent machines and in products to sell. Things were set to change. Eventually I presented 10 fragrances I had blended carefully to brief utilising raw materials I had sourced from Australia and around the globe. Unfortunately, not all ingredients were available in Australia and sometimes the quality from overseas surpasses Australian oils, which are not generally extracted with the purpose of perfumery in mind. Managing director for Country Road, the inspiring Elle Roseby, and the


BUSINESS

development team and myself, gathered in their Melbourne headquarters and sniffed through options. Immediately putting my nerves at rest, it became clear they loved many options with their squeals of delight. We walked away from the meeting with three chosen. The new strategy was to launch with two fragrances and save one for a later date. Out of the two, one would become the signature store scent. Over the next months I was a very busy bee. I spent my time up-scaling the fragrances to the quantities required, testing with skincare and candle manufacturers, writing back-of-pack copy, ordering and receiving raw materials, directing photoshoots and fittings with the Country Road PR team, discussing names and dealing with legal requirements including ingredient listings. I was burning candles around the clock to test burn time and efficiency of scent throw and fragrance profile and preparing my little factory in Marrickville for hand preparing the many kilograms of oil concentrate required. Once the sample products were signed off and we were all happy with their performances, I hand blended and macerated the bulk oils and finally sent them off to the manufacturers in time for them to be mixed, poured and bottled. Not long after they began to be sighted instore and online and are now core products in the lifestyle section of Country Road. Check out the range online here: www.countryroad.com.au/ shop/home/scent

The fragrances, Linen and Driftwood, depict unique snapshots of Australian landscapes and scenes. They contain high-quality raw materials and, where possible, of Australian origin.

GET IN TOUCH If you would like to speak with me about how you can create a unique scent for your own brand or how you can offer scent branding to your customers, please reach out via my website: www.ainsliewalker.com If you have an interest in perfumery I run perfume-making workshops monthly in The Strand Arcade with tickets available through www.courtesyoftheartist.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |81


BUSINESS

Economic powerhouse By Dr Jennifer Semple

A study has revealed Australia’s hygiene, personal care and specialty products industry to be a quiet and steady driver of value within the local economy worth a whopping $26.3bn. As beauty industry insiders, you know how important our industry is. Cosmetics and personal care products help keep us healthy and to look and feel good. This boosts self-esteem and confidence and provides opportunities for self-expression and pampering. There is evidence showing the significant positive effects of cosmetics and personal care products on wellness, beyond physical health. According to Consumer Insights 2017, cosmetics and personal care products were considered to improve quality of life by 72% of EU consumers, and 80% identified cosmetics and personal care products as important or very important in building up selfesteem - across every age group. In Australia, these important contributions are highlighted by the wonderful work of Look Good Feel Better over 30 years of support for Australian cancer patients. Results of the 2016/2017 global survey - covering 13,300 program participants in Australasia, North and South America and Europe - revealed a 78% increase in self-confidence among women upon completion of the program, and 96% of respondents indicated that the program was very or somewhat valuable in improving their self-image. Accord’s various sustainability and consumer education initiatives also promote the many health and social benefits of our industry. But what has been less well-known - until now - is the economic contribution of our industry, and the broader hygiene and specialty products sectors, to the Australian economy. INAUGURAL ECONOMIC REPORT HIGHLIGHTS OUR IMPORTANT CONTRIBUTION TO THE AUSTRALIAN ECONOMY

Accord commissioned EY to prepare the first-ever ‘State of the Industry Economics Report for the Australian Hygiene, Personal Care and Specialty Products Industry’. This top-down economic report looks at the entire value of the industry across all market segments represented by Accord. It quantifies the key economic indicators for the industry, highlighting the economic importance of the entire hygiene, personal care and specialty products industry to Australia. Here are some of the topline results, based on 2018 economic data: • Total turnover: $26.3bn (we are the 17th largest industry sector in Australia) • Industry value-add: $5.6bn (upstream and downstream value added by our industry to the Australian economy―an indicator of how our sector drives economic activity) • Jobs: 68,117 • Wages: $3.4bn • Export value: $1.3bn 82| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

The report identified a number of other significant observations regarding our industry, including: • Diversity in production, with businesses operating across all aspects of the supply chain from production through to the retail of final goods. • Varied client base, with industry products consumed by a wide range of end-users and spanning a wide range of product types from basic consumer necessities to janitorial cleaning supplies to luxury cosmetics. • Resilience to changes in economic conditions (likely arising from the above two characteristics). • The higher growth in our industry’s value-add than the Australian GDP over the past five years, meaning that our industry added proportionately more value than some other industries in the economy.


BUSINESS HAIR SALON SECTOR CASE STUDY

The report also profiles two important case studies where businesses rely heavily on our industry’s products. One is the hair salon sector, a significant small business service sector that operates in almost every town in Australia. The hair salon sector was valued at $3.6bn total turnover and added $1.7bn to the Australian industry in 2018. It employed more than 42,000 via its 17,400-plus small businesses. Without the professional-use shampoos, conditioners, hair colourants, treatments and associated products, the services provided by the hairdressing industry would be very limited. ATTENTION POLICYMAKERS

Accord executive director Bronwyn Capanna has highlighted the importance of this report in demonstrating our industry’s contribution and potential within the national economy for generating jobs and investment. “With this new data revealing our industry is a quiet but steady driver of significant economic value, it is hoped Australia’s governments will look for policies to better harness our sector’s growth potential,” she said. “Australian manufacturers across the sector require access to the latest ingredients and formulation technologies available globally so they can stay competitive and build their own innovative products. To facilitate this outcome, local Australian regulation must be properly balanced and ideally should not throw up unjustified barriers or variants from global practice. Local regulation can be

strong, effective and risk-proportionate but also better aligned to the other advanced markets we trade with.” Bronwyn said the report will “assist Accord in advocacy efforts on behalf of industry” as “we can now demonstrate our industry’s contribution in tangible economic terms”. “It is our confident hope that these data will help policymakers engage with the industry to foster and harness its growth potential,” she said.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |83


BUSINESS

Online Retail

Round Up

FINGERPRINT AUTHENTICATION TO BECOME COMMONPLACE BY 2025

Fingerprint authentication will be used for payments by more than three in five Australian consumers by 2025, according to new Mastercard research. Australians are 56% more likely to use fingerprint authentication, followed by facial recognition (45%), retinal or iris scans (45%), then voice recognition (38%) for biometric payments. Australians agree that cash will be the least-used method of payment by 2025, with digital wallets becoming the most commonly used product. Four in five Australians agree biometric payments means people can’t watch them enter or guess their pin or password, with a further 77% agreeing they don’t need to remember any PINs or passwords to use biometric payments. Within the Asia Pacific market, Australia has one of the highest incidences of online fraud rates and card payment declines. Although there has been a slight decline in the growth of card-notpresent fraud in Australia, it still accounted for 84.9% of all card fraud in 2018, with $488 million lost as a result. Mastercard division president of Australasia, Richard Wormald said Mastercard is creating a future where all digital transactions are trusted and seamless for the entire ecosystem. “This includes all forms of biometric payments – fingerprint, face, voice recognition and even new modalities, such as palm. Mastercard’s secure network, combined with advanced biometric and artificial intelligence technologies, is enabling merchants and issuers to both verify a consumer’s identity and deliver an unmatched consumer experience.” RETAIL LAGS IN EMAIL MARKETING PERFORMANCE

Retail email marketing campaigns had an average open rate of 14.6% in 2019, much lower than other industry sectors such as education (31.2%), automotive and aerospace (30.7%) and government (30.5%), according to an Email Marketing Benchmarks for Australia Report released by Campaign Monitor. The report compiled data from an analysis of billions of email marketing campaigns sent in Australia in 2019 for industry members to measure how their email marketing strategy compared. Despite the result for the retail sector, email marketing remains an effective tool to engage customers and keep traffic coming in-store and online. And Australia leads the charge with open rates with an average of 18.7%, slightly higher than the global average of 17.8%, the UK at 17.5% and the US at 17%. The report found that Wednesday attracts the highest open rate in retail at 15.6%, while Sunday performs the worst with an average of 13.3%. The click-through rate is slightly higher on Tuesdays and Saturdays (1.7%) and the click-to-open rate is highest on Sundays (12.2%). According to Campaign Monitor vice president – commerce 84| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail thanks to Retailbiz editor Emily Bencic.

product strategy, Adii Pienaar, there are ways to bolster campaigns and successfully improve sales. This includes: 1. List segmentation – welcoming new customers and enticing lapsed customers with promotions 2. Email automation – activating pre-built emails to develop welcome series, abandoned cart, order follow-ups and loyalty program messages 3. Newsletters – nurture and covert customers with branded emails 4. Receipts – design and send different receipts to different customer types to optimise each marketing opportunity 5. Reviews – integrate each product review on your site and in any email 6. Data insights – use benchmark data and previous indicators of success to inform timing for campaigns 7. Customer insights – create a poll or survey to accompany campaigns to learn about your audience and inform future marketing HOW ONLINE MARKETPLACES EMPOWER SMALL BUSINESSES

Small business owners around the world are earning an additional income to reinvest in their local community and feel more financially secure when selling products on online marketplaces, according to a new eBay Global Marketplace Index (GMI). The GMI identifies five empowerment dimensions – lifestyle impact, financial security, financial growth, marketplace tools and business environments – to quantify performance. Each dimension is equally weighed at 20 points for a maximum index score of 100 points. There were 2,500 small business owners surveyed across the United States, Australia, United Kingdom, Germany and South Korea. The US ranked first with a GMI score of 88.4, followed by Australia with 84.3, then the UK with 83.4, Germany with 82.1 and coming in at fifth position was South Korea with 80.2. With each country scoring above 80, this demonstrates that small businesses are empowered by selling through marketplaces with 85% suggesting that their online business gives them freedom or flexibility and 77% believe their online business gives them confidence or control. Other survey findings include 69% of US small business owners claim that their income has improved compared to before selling through marketplaces and over 50% say selling through marketplaces expands their customer reach. eBay vice president – seller operations and engagement, Marni Levine, said it was fantastic to see small business owners leverage online marketplaces to support financial and familial needs. “Since the company’s early days, eBay has viewed ecommerce as a gateway to economic empowerment for entrepreneurs and small businesses by providing a pathway to reach new buyers online with little barrier to entry, regardless of size, background or geographic location.


INFLUENCER

INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer. YA S M I N B O R D E R - F O U N D E R O F T H E S O A K L I F E R O S S A N D R E WA R T H A – C E L E B R I T Y M A K E U P A R T I S T A N D G L O B A L E D U C ATO R I C Y L I N G – E D I TO R AT I N D U L G E N C E A N D I N F L U E N C E R BEAUTY AND THE BEST M I C H A E L B R O W N – C E L E B R I T Y M U A , P R E S E N T E R , E D U C ATO R AND BRAND AMBASSADOR J E M M A M C B R I D E – K I E H L ’ S E D U C ATO R ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |85


INFLUENCER

Yasmin Border THE SOAK LIFE

By Nicci Herrera

Yasmin Border truly lives and breathes beauty. When it comes to knowing your industry and investing in what you know, this business savvy woman is the epitome of success. I first met Yasmin 10 years ago when I employed her to head up the digital department for my company, Lust Have It, which was Australia’s “first beauty subscription box. Since then, we have remained friends in business and she has never ceased to amaze me with her wisdom and advice. Yasmin started her career working on the counter at Estée Lauder at the age of 18 and has spent that last 12 years working in digital marketing within the beauty industry working for brands such as Nude by Nature and Nutrimetics. Yasmin is now a cosmetic formulator and multiple business owner. She launched her own indie bath and body brand, The Soak Life, four years ago. Yamin shares her tips to success. 86| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“I love how beauty products make you feel, whether its a new lipstick or body lotion, there is something so special to me about using them, they never fail to make me feel good and brighten up my day. I’ve always loved beauty products even as a child. I loved makeup so much that I went to makeup school when I was 18 to become a makeup artist.” WHAT ROLE DO YOU THINK KICK-STARTED YOUR ENTREPRENEURIAL PASSION?

“It was working at Lust Have It and as the beauty editor at Lustre Magazine. I had access to all of these amazing brands and products. I put a call out for bath products and, even though we had so many submissions, I still couldn’t find the type of bath product that I was looking for. That’s when I decided to start my own brand.” ANY ADVICE ON HOW YOUR SKILLS CAN HELP CREATE A VISION?

“I don’t think it matters what your career is, you can definitely use those skills to help launch your beauty brand.


ANY CHALLENGES YOU WISH TO SHARE AND HOW YOU OVERCAME THEM?

“Needing to scale up was a challenge, I turned down a lot of big orders with international retailers as I knew I wouldn’t be able to fulfil their orders at that time. I ended up moving from Sydney back to Newcastle where I knew the commercial property was cheaper and I’d be able to expand The Soak Life.”

INFLUENCER

For example, if your experience is sales or retail, use those skills to sell your products into retail stores. For me, I was lucky that my background was beauty and digital marketing, so I was able to use those skills to bootstrap my business. This meant I could do most of the work myself to keep the costs down.”

HOW DO YOU STAY AHEAD OF THE TRENDS?

“I find inspiration everywhere, from social media, fashion and art. I also read a lot of beauty industry publications such as esprit magazine and a lot of cosmetic formula resources as well, to keep up to date on new ingredients and trends.” WHAT WORKSHOPS ARE YOU DOING OR WOULD YOU LIKE TO DO?

“Probably something pretty dry, such as a course in exporting basics, as that isn’t something that I am familiar with or have experience in. It’s such a huge market, especially with the Australian beauty, or A-beauty trend.” DO YOU HAVE MENTORS?

“I don’t have mentors as such, but I do know people who I admire that I will reach out and ask for advice if I need it.” WHAT’S NEXT FOR YASMIN?

Yasmin’s top 5 tips you need to create an indie brand: 1. Have a vision and brand statement – this will help you narrow down what sets your brand and product stand out from what is already on the market. 2. Have an innovative or unique product, even if it’s an ingredient or smell – the Soak Life’s Salty Coconut Bath Soaks were different to the bath soaks already on the market as their scents were tropical-inspired. Most others on the market used traditional scents such as rose or lavender. 3. Professional branding – you want your brand to look professional and for consumers to trust your products. 4. Price your products correctly – even if you aren’t planning to wholesale in the beginning, make sure you have enough room in your pricing to wholesale in the future and still have a healthy profit margin. 5. Start with a MVP (minimum viable product) that you can test your market with – there is no point going out and creating 10 different SKUs if they won’t sell in your chosen market. Start small with one product and see how it sells and the feedback that you get. I started off with one bath soak in three scents as my first product and expanded the line from there, once I knew that consumers loved my product.

Aussie made

“I am in the process of starting another beauty brand. I am also the co-owner of a silk scarf brand called Frankie Peach, which will be expanding into beauty and hair accessories such as silk scrunchies and pillowcases.” www.thesoaklife.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |87


INFLUENCER

7 steps

R O S S A N D R E WA RT H A’ S

to achieving the perfect base

88| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


Celebrity makeup artist, global educator and Chadstone’s official Beauty Insider Ross Andrewartha shares with esprit his tip tops for achieving a flawless base for your client, every single time. 1. UP YOUR SKINCARE GAME

Look for a base that gives your client’s skin a boost as they’re wearing it. Choose foundations that contain serums - they’ll give your customer a whole host of skincare benefits. They’re also great for nourishing the skin throughout the day. An oil-free, non-comedogenic formula enriched with a hydrating serum that will bless your client’s skin with a supermodelesque radiance. Even better, we’re talking about a seriously luxe-looking, poreblurring finish that sits so naturally on the skin, so it still looks like, well, skin. 2. TEST THE REST

Ensure you choose a shade so on point that it melts into your client’s complexion like a second skin. Test it out in different lights before committing. I always recommend trying on foundations at midday so you get the best natural daylight for a true colour match. Choose a shade that mimics the colour of the skin across the entire body. Top tip: test-run a foundation on your client’s jawline or chest, never the hand.

3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT FORMULA

Everyone’s got their personal preference, but if you want to achieve that glowy, litfrom-within finish (which let’s be honest, is most of us), you’re better off sticking to liquids and mousses for the ultimate blendability. Liquid foundation is the easiest to use and blend, and it’s usually great for most skin types. You can use brushes, but I always suggest applying foundation with your fingers and massaging it into your client’s face like skincare – this helps boost the circulation so you get a natural glow.

6. KEEP IT VERSATILE

In fact, mixing in different products can give you multiple finishes from just one bottle. If you like the finish of a foundation, try mixing it with a liquid highlighter or a moisturiser to thin it out for slightly lighter coverage. Foundations can also be layered - start by using a liquid formula first for an even finish and then top up with a stick or a powder for fuller coverage, this way you can get your desired finish.

4 SWITCH-UP SEASONAL SHADES

7. LOCK IT IN

A foundation wardrobe is the key to a seamless, undetectable base. If it’s a repeat customer, make sure you have two shades either side of their complexion so you can mix and match throughout the year when their skin colour changes with the seasons. Liquids are very forgiving, even if you do get the colour off by half a shade.

Not a powder person? Meet my secret weapon for keeping foundation in check – a setting mist. Using a hydrating setting mist really helps you to achieve a skin realism effect for the skin, which really does finish the look. If you find your client’s skin already has that shine, you could use a setting spray that will help lock in foundation into the night.

5. SPF IS A MUST

Whether you love it in foundation or separately, SPF is an absolute daily must. I always recommend 50+ if possible. A moisturiser with SPF might give you a better finish than a foundation base containing built-in SPF.

Liquid foundation is the easiest to use and blend, and it’s usually great for most skin types. www.instagram.com/rossandrewartha ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |89


INFLUENCER

Sustainable

Beauty

Challenge @icybutterfly

90| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


INFLUENCER

Icy Ling shares her top tips on helping beauty enthusiasts reduce their waste footprint. Are you smart with your beauty waste? Thanks to the many companies that have introduced sustainable packaging, we are able to recycle many of our cosmetics and skincare waste. But lately I have been thinking of another issue of mine: product waste. As a beauty editor I review a LOT of new products, but don’t necessarily get to finish them all. Before the Christmas break, I received lots of sun care products, with most brands sending me the entire range. Last month, I received countless hair products, and even though we all know I have extremely long hair, it’s not like I wash my hair every day. This month, I have been given tons of complexion products for testing, but most don’t even match my skin colour. I can never finish using them. Ever. HOW THEN DO I CUT WASTE?

First of all, stick to the motto ‘first-in-firstout’. The products that you buy first should be used, or disposed of, first. Unfortunately there is rarely a ‘best before’ printed on most beauty products except sunscreens. But there is a cute little sign on each packaging to remind you how soon you should consume it. It’s also handy to use a waterproof marker to write the unboxing date, or the date you started using it, next to this sign. We all follow trends and love trying the newbies seen on Instagram. But how many do we actually need? Think about the ones that are already open. Stop buying or opening the items you don’t need.

Empty wax candles are great makeup brush containers. Washed makeup sponges are wonderful sneaker cleaners.

Many of us are happy to get sun-kissed and tanned, but not so happy when our favourite foundation is not ‘shade up-todate’. Don’t throw the old bottle straight away. It can be applied around the T-zone and cheekbones as a highlighter. Unwanted concealer is great for travel makeup bags. High coverage concealer can cover birthmarks and bruises after dressing up. Do you find you struggle to finish a mascara within three months? Unfinished mascara is a great eyebrow tint. Unfinished skincare bottles can be useful too. Use facial mists as an anti-static spray for legs after you put on that beautiful silk skirt. Facial scrubs are friendly for delicate areas before shaving. Shampoos are perfect brush cleansers. If your shoes are making your heel uncomfortable, rub a tiny bit of rose-hip oil onto the area where there is discomfort.

I have a girlfriend who loves collecting limited edition Crème de la Mer. She will then rinse the empty jars and use them to store her bobby pins or hair clips. I saw her using empty hairspray cans to hold hairbands too. Good on her. Empty wax candles are great makeup brush containers. Washed makeup sponges are wonderful sneaker cleaners. Right? How much of a ‘beauty junkie’ are you? Next time before you throw those empty bottles or half finished beauty products into the bin, think again. Are they trash or treasures? It is up to you.

LET’S CHAT

I am writing this column each issue in esprit Magazine Australia for 2020. If you would like to share your success, you know where to find me. @icybutterfly ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |91


BEAUTY & THE BEST

Twin disasters Bushfires and coronavirus are twin disasters that have hit Australia’s retail sector. Hard. Businesses in bushfireaffected areas have lost income and been forced to reduce staff, while coronavirus is impacting Australians – and the world – in unprecedented ways. We hear how BAs are dealing with the challenging, changing retail landscape.

Anita Tassone Marc Edward Agency Store: Myer and David Jones City: Melbourne “Maintaining strong customer relationships, is an extremely import factor in sales growth, customer satisfaction and customer retention. We rely on our 92| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

customers to come in store, experience a great customer service, purchase their products and then later return. However, with the devastating Australian bushfires over the Christmas and New Year period, those relationships have been impacted. Our local customers have refrained from spending due to a loss of confidence and hope. They were less inclined to spend money on themselves and many have put that money instead towards charity and relief funds. Tourism plays a big part in our Australian economic growth, especially within the retail sector. The images of the Australian bushfires were beamed across the world. Though they elicited international sympathy and donations, they deterred tourists from coming here who would otherwise spend money.

esprit asked the BAs: “How have bushfires and coronavirus impacted your customer relationships?”

We are experiencing extensive quarantine measures, travel restrictions and business shutdowns. While these measures limit and prevent the spread of the virus, the immediate economic impact may be more significant in our Australian retail sector than the virus itself.


BEAUTY & THE BEST “The outbreak of the coronavirus following the impact of the bushfires, created an even larger strain on our customer relationships. A large percent of our retail revenue comes from Chinese customers. They provide a positive impact on our sales and economic growth. Coronavirus has had a huge negative impact on our in-store sales growth, due to a decrease in customers visiting Australia. We are experiencing extensive quarantine measures, travel restrictions and business shutdowns. While these measures limit and prevent the spread of the virus, the immediate economic impact may be more significant in our Australian retail sector than the virus itself.”

Katie Godwin Amcal Pharmacy Store: Caboolture City: Brisbane “Overall, I’d say the relationship with our customers has been strengthened. Living about an hour north of Brisbane, we’re far enough away from the city that coronavirus

hasn’t become an issue for us yet. We’re surrounded by thick bush and farms though, so the team and our customers were all impacted by the bush fires. Some of our smaller townships have been decimated by the fires, but thankfully none of our customers lost their houses. Many people have asked us for help and advice managing their respiratory difficulties, resulting from the dust and smoke in the air. We’ve also seen an increase in requests for blood pressure checks, as our customers deal with elevated stress levels. “The team here all live locally, and are part of the community, so we’re impacted too. I saw the amazing work our firefighters were doing to control the fires, and being a healthcare provider, I just wanted to help the people who were helping so many others. I was able to

Living about an hour north of Brisbane, we’re far enough away from the city that coronavirus hasn’t become an issue for us yet. We’re surrounded by thick bush and farms though, so the team and our customers were all impacted by the bush fires

•R etail sales in China dropped by 20.5% after coronavirus hit, according to Pantheon Macroeconomics. •O ut of the 9.3 million tourists that visited Australia last year, 1.4 million were from China, spending an average of $9,235 per trip and $12.3 billion in total, according to Tourism Australia. •R etailers have felt the brunt of Australia’s summer of disaster - according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS), retail turnover fell 0.3 per cent in seasonally adjusted terms in January. This follows a fall of 0.7 per cent in December.

use my network, to reach out and take donations for the firies. I was overwhelmed with support from the community, my supplier representatives, friends, and colleagues from other stores. Together we were able to gather first aid supplies, burn creams, magnesium powder, hydrolyte, baby bottles, blankets, and much more. We sent a large portion of this to the local fire station, and delivered the rest to the beautiful wildlife carers at the Beachmere Wildlife Op Shop, and they were able to ship the gear to individuals who were caring for sick and injured animals.” Ed’s note: Many BAs declined to take part in this feature, with the Covid-19 pandemic still unfolding at the time of going to print, and the social and economic effects of the virus still yet to be determined. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |93


INFLUENCER M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N

Techniques

for the Ages

94| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020


Everyone on the shop floor or in your team can come from different sales experiences and all sorts of past or present beauty knowledge or education. But it’s up to you to also do some groundwork and research what is happening out there to better understand and prescribe the best solutions for your customers. When I started my cosmetic retail journey as a makeup artist many moons ago, my background was dance and stage makeup – let’s just say, all my clients had a granite smokey eye and red lip in my first year of work. This was probably a bit much for a 40-year-old that asked for a day look, but it was all I knew at the time and what I was confident in applying on someone. I was on autopilot anytime anyone booked in for a makeup appointment. With more training, experience and understanding that most customers aren’t doing a stage performance, I realised the importance of trial and error. I was able to better understand all age groups and their concerns. I was still figuring out why a product I just used five mins ago looked amazing, but on my next customer it failed to deliver. Was it the product? The customer? Or my application? FACE MAPPING

The term face mapping is used in a few areas of beauty. It’s generally used for understanding different areas of the face and considering concerns the customer may have to prescribe the best skincare solution for them. I use face mapping for nearly all makeup applications I do, and in terms of skin movement, to pinpoint where expression/movement is that could disturb or crease the makeup products I apply. A lot of modern-day makeup artists are amazing at applying makeup to themselves, like many YouTube makeup artists. There are artists that only work in runway, where every model is young with a ‘smooth canvas’ or some artists may have only had one or two clients, so gave perfected their ‘look’ seamlessly.

I use face mapping for nearly all makeup applications I do, and in terms of skin movement, to pinpoint where expression/movement is that could disturb or crease the makeup products I apply. But a true artist is one that can work makeup magic on any face, no matter the age or skin condition, and it’s all about understanding how the face moves and where.

Michael’s foolproof tips that can work for all ages

INFLUENCER

As cosmetic retail beauty advisors, it’s so important to be on top of everything happening in this ever-changing industry we are in.

• Apply eye socket shadow when eyes are open for perfect placement – works great for hooded eyes. • Shiny, metallic or frosted textured products can put more focus on imperfections than matte textures. • A smudged out, pencil liner will open eyes more than a defined, liquid liner. • Deeper shades applied to outer corner of eye and eye socket will give eyes structure than if you applied light tones. • Bronzer can be used under cheekbones for a sculpted effect, whereas blush should be used at front of cheek (apple) to create fresh fullness. • The darker the lipstick, the smaller lips appear.

EDUCATE YOURSELF

I say this all the time, I absolutely love that my makeup career started on the retail floor, as I was able to work with so many faces, age groups and skin conditions. It taught me so much, especially as back then we didn’t have blogs, podcasts or YouTube to learn new techniques - we did it ourselves through trial and error. If you always go to the same products for a makeup on someone, try something new. If you only use the products you use on yourself on clients, change it up. Do you only know what works for your skin? If so, start to understand products for other skin types/concerns. If you only rely on brand training, then you need to do more. YouTube, Instagram, blogs, you name it, tips are out there, and they will increase your career by having more knowledge. Although I have been a makeup artist for 20 years, my techniques always slightly change as I learn from other artists. Let’s all make 2020 the year of educating ourselves more on the world of beauty, because the more knowledge you have, the more confidence you portray = sales. #Winning

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |95


BRAND NEWS

Clinique Superdefense SPF 15 Fatigue + 1st Signs of Age Multi-Correcting Cream - a fatigue-fighting, daytime moisturiser that awakens, corrects and defends your skin against first signs of ageing. Containing seven superfoods, it is the first multicorrecting moisturiser to control up to 90% of visible ageing caused by UVA/B and other pollutants. www.clinique.com.au

Natio Spa Relaxing Magnesium & Mineral Bath Salts - these baths salts combine the muscle soothing benefits of magnesium, with pure minerals and aromatic essential oils to help relieve tired and sore muscles and relax the mind. www.natio.com.au

Nivea Q10 Power Facial Oil for Mature Skin - the multiaction pampering facial oil is specifically formulated for mature skin. It deeply nourishes the skin with organic argan oil for a soft skin feel. www.nivea.com.au

Ella Baché Neobright Correcting Day Cream - helps fight off pollution. Combining brightening, lightening, smoothing and protecting properties, the day cream delivers a more even skin tone while protecting against free radical damage. www.ellabache.com.au

Aveda Foam Reset Rinseless Hydrating Hair Cleanser - a dry shampoo reinvented to hydrate the hair that conditions and gently cleanses all hair types between washes. It’s even suitable for extensions, braids and weaves. www.aveda.com.au

Kora Organics Noni Night AHA Resurfacing Serum - a powerful night treatment serum that uses natural AHAs, BHA and ferments to resurface the skin and increase cellular turnover, leaving the skin with a smoother, more refined complexion. www.koraorganics.com

Fresh NYC Limited Edition Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence - this limited-edition essence for luminous skin is inspired by the aspirational city that was home to the very first Fresh flagship store: New York City. www.sephora.com.au

Head & Shoulders Supreme 0% Purify & Volume Shampoo - offers advanced anti-dandruff technology with no added parabens, silicones or colourants. Specifically designed to meet the needs of women, the premium shampoo and conditioner deeply cleans and nourishes the hair and scalp without the added nasties, leaving hair gorgeous looking, healthy and flake-free, while protecting the scalp. www.headandshoulders.com.au

96| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

Schmidt’s Lavender + Sage Natural Deodorant Stick - created with ingredients derived from minerals and botanicals. The clean, herbaceous fragrance of lavender and sage is both tranquil and soothing. www.schmidts.com


BRAND NEWS

Sachajuan Anti-Pollution Shampoo – has been designed to improve hair that has been exposed to the ongoing effects of environmental pollution. Blended with a trio of natural) ingredients, it creates a barrier against pollution, keeping the scalp and hair feeling healthy and hydrated. www.mecca.com.au or www.davidjones.com.au

Jojoba Ultimate Youth Potion + L22 - formulated with patented L22, a blend of botanical oils that delivers the same ratio of lipids as a healthy 22-year-old skin, this facial oil packs a powerful punch to put back in what age takes away working to deeply hydrate, plump and deliver a radiant glow. www.thejojobacompany.com.au

Giorgio Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Multi-Purpose Concealer - infused with the signature luminous silk radiance, it conceals, highlights and erases for a flawless result. Available in twenty shades, there is a luminous silk multipurpose concealer to suit each skin tone and undertone. www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com.au

Rimmel Scandaleyes Volume on Demand Mascara - allows the user to customise their lash volume. The wavy fibre brush with a unique tapered shape grabs, coats and combs each lash. Clump-free, flake-free and smudge-free. www.chemistwarehouse.com.au

Lanolips 101 Ointment MultiBalm Minty – made from ultra pure grade lanolin with a hit of spearmint and peppermint oil, with vitamin E for the ultimate freshness on the lips. www.lanolips.com

Trilogy Vitamin C Polishing Powder - activates when mixed with water to create a non-abrasive, skin smoothing and illuminating polishing milk. Included is a synergistic blend of rice starch to gently buff away dead skin cells and cleanse pores while antioxidantrich vitamin C helps by gently ‘dissolving’ the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother skin and a brighter complexion. www.trilogyproducts.com

Real Techniques Artist Essentials Set - designed by internationally renowned professional makeup artists and beauty vloggers, Sam and Nic Chapman, with four of five brushes only exclusively available in this set. Includes 217 Expert edge large brush, 317 Smudge liner brush, 420 Spotlight fan brush, 425 Lip smudge brush and 421 Soft accent brush. www.realtechniques.com.au

Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Hydrating Eye helps reduce the look of fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness and darkness. Packed with a 50% hyaluronic acid complex this refreshing eye gel is also formulated with pentavitin to provide up to 72 hours of hydration, even after cleansing. www.sephora.com.au

Sisley Paris Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid - a refreshing eye fluid with exceptional revitalising performance, to smooth, open up and illuminate the eye in a single stroke. www.sisley-paris.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020 |97


INFLUENCER

Have you met... JEMMA MCBRIDE By Nicci Herrera

Jemma studied beauty therapy back in 2005 and worked in the spa industry for a few years before leaving beauty for a banking gig. Being a true beauty addict, she was always destined to eventually end up back into the industry. Nicci chats with Kiehl’s educator Jemma McBride. TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER JOURNEY?

“After my career in banking, joined L’Oréal in 2015 as an area manager for Lancôme in pharmacy. My role evolved into a sales and education role, managing L’Oréal Luxe Brands in pharmacy (Vic/Tas). In January this year I became the national educator for Kiehl’s. I get to work alongside an amazing group of retail and education managers and some very inspiring Kiehl’s customer representatives (KCR), ensuring our patrons receive the best service and skincare advice.” WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING PART OF YOUR ROLE?

“I work with some pretty cool humans! I am definitely a people person – the people I work with are why I love what I do. The products are pretty amazing too!” FAVOURITE TOWN WHEN TRAVELLING ON THE ROAD?

“In Victoria, I love the drive to Mornington. Driving along the coast with the music playing is heaven. I also recently fell in love with Adelaide.” WHAT IS YOUR LIFE MOTTO?

“I have learned that when things don’t work out the way you intend, there is a bigger plan at play – you need to trust the redirection.” BEST PIECE OR ADVICE YOU HAVE RECEIVED?

“It would have to be ‘surround yourself with a network of supporters’. We did a workshop about giving and receiving feedback a few years ago. That advice was given to me anonymously. I have always wanted to know by who. So, if you are reading this – thank you. It has changed my life.” FAVOURITE PLAYLIST OR PODCAST WHILE TRAVELLING?

“I love listening to Oprah’s SuperSoul Conversations. For beauty podcasts I highly recommend Beaute Industrie.”

98| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2020

ADVICE FOR THOSE STARTING OUT IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“Say ‘yes’ to every opportunity that you are given. Don’t think on it, just say yes and work the rest out later.” HOW DO YOU REMAIN PASSIONATE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“It is so important to celebrate even the small wins. When things don’t go to plan, you need to celebrate the lesson. I also like to keep an open mind and learn a new thing every day. This year I enrolled in a dermal science degree. I also learn every day from my KCR community.” WHAT SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES ARE THERE IN BANKING VS BEAUTY?

“Both industries have the power to change people’s lives. Beauty just has a little more fun in the process.” www.kiehls.com.au


NEW nutriplenish

™

72-hour hydration*

with omega-5 pomegranate oil for visibly healthier hair. 94% naturally derived,** with powerful superfoods. vegan. *When used with nutriplenishTM leave-in conditioner. **From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.com.au



Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.