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Digital Magazine April - June, 2012

Cambodia Gems & Jewelry Fair 2012

Swimming In Sihanouk Ville An Awarding Country with Pristine tropical islands Cambodia’s Art Of Survival

V I C T O R

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Explore the World Heritage Angkor Temples and immerse yourself in the Khmer empire. The Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, inspired by 20th century colonial architecture and design, provides a sense of serenity with the nostalgic comfort and elegant reĮnement of the French Art de Vivre.

In total harmony ha ny with w its natural surroundings, roun ndings, the the resort is situated in the heart heart of Siem m Reap, opposite o posite the th Royal Park.

Located to Park Locate d within cclose ose proximity prox the Angkor old Angko Temples, Temples the quaint qua market town tow wn of SSiem iem Reap and 7 km. (4 miles) from the InternaƟonal Airport. m In ernaƟonal A Transport with Transp port yourself yoursel into the past p our thre three limousines, ee vintage Citroen lim ousines, personalized airport transfers, tran nsfers, a trip tr for personalized around the the town or a visit to the Temples. ples.

VICTORIA ORIA ANGKOR RESORT & SPA Central Boxx 9314 93145, al Park, P.O. B Siem m Reap Town, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: +85563 760 428 Fax: Fa +855 63 760 350 resa.angkor@victoriahotels.asia re resa.a gkor@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia otels.asia

PUBLISHER’S NOTE Dear Readers, Our friend and colleague, Phalika Ngin, has recently published a hugely important study of the iconic 38- year reign of the most famous king of the Khmer Empire, Jayavarman VII. We recommend it to all those interested in Angkorian history.

Quite contrary to conventional wisdom, Ms. Ngin establishes that this most important era of Khmer history saw, not the reign of a single all-powerful king with his two queen-wives but, rather, the highly popular, fully functioning partnership between the king and his two queens – his first consort, Jayarajadevi, and his second consort, Indradevi. A Royal Triad.

Jayavarman, known only by that name during his lifetime, (with the “VII” was added later by French historians to distinguish between him and other Khmer kings before and after who used the same name) is today best known for his successful military campaigns that greatly expanded the Khmer Empire into modern day Thailand and Vietnam. To a lesser extent he is also known as the first Buddhist king of the Khmer Empire after centuries of Hindu rulers (although his successor returned the throne to Hindu religious practices for a time).

Even more stunning is Ms. Ngin’s revelations of the nature of the rule of the Royal Triad. We know of Jayavarman as a warrior; until this study we did not know that his two queens were also successful military leaders, effectively tripling the effectiveness of their leadership.

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As their rule epitomized equality of the sexes in war, so it did as well in peace. During their reign more than 100 free public hospitals with pharmacies were opened and made available to the public, as well as were free public schools for both boys and girls. The prevailing Hindu caste system was replaced with an open social order in which unprecedented freedoms of worship and social mobility were allowed. All this occurred at a time centuries before such “Western” concepts evolved in the west!

The reign of the Royal Triad was enormously popular among the common people, which may well account for the reverence in which it is still held In Cambodia – even though today it is still viewed primarily through the prism of military conquest.

Ms. Ngin has made a remarkable contribution to the study history, while raising the appreciation of an enlightened apex of the Angkorian Khmer empire as an advanced, progressive culture.

As always, your readership, your advertising support, and your comments will help us make this the leading publication of its kind on the internet. We’re truly grateful.

Sincerely,

Charles R. Evans, Publisher Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200 Fax: 63.969.201 H/P: 017.906.721 Charles@CorporateMarketingIntl.com

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CONTENTS Cambodia Gems & Jewelry Fair 2012

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Precious gemstones in Cambodia

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Swimming In Sihanouk Ville

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An Awarding Country with Pristine Tropical Islands

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Cambodia’s Art of Survival

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Near Cambodia’s Temple Ruins a Devotion to Learning

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14 Ta Som Guesthouse Room Amenities • A/c rooms available • Fan Rooms Available • Cable/Satellite TV in room • Refrigerator in room • Hot/Cold Water

info@tasomguesthouse.com www.tasom-guesthouse.com

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#268 Nat. Route 6, (Airport Road,) Taphul Village, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Hotel Facilities • Restaurant • Room Service • 24-hour room service • Laundry Services

• Tour/Travel Services • Travel/Tour Information • Free airport/ferry shuttle • Internet access in hotel

Tel: +(855)(0)63-964970, +(855)(0)12-830170, +(855)(0)12-772660 Fax: +(855)(0)63-967268

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A Quarterly Magazine on Business, Economy, Tourism, Culture and Society in English for Cambodia.

Founded in Siem Reap City in January, 2010 by Evans Marketing Charles R. Evans Don Finck Don Finck Kanyapat Evans Jeroen Mylho Savuth Sao Atchariya Priabnan Seriya Chan Bunleab Hong Mookda Jamsai Eric Larbouillat Peter Richards

Publisher and Managing Director Editor - in - Chief Senior Creative Director Creative Director Art Director Manager, Graphic Design & Print Production Graphic & Web Design Sr. Webmaster & Programmer Jr. Webmaster & Programmer Production Assistant Sales Executive Thailand Bureau Chief

Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co. Ltd., Wat Damnak Village, 0453 Sala Kam Reuk Commune, Group 4, Siem Reap - Angkor, 17000, Kingdom of Cambodia

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Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200/201 Fax: +855 (0) 63.969.201.

Advertising & Subscriptions E-Mail: Advertising@CambodiaInsight.com E-Mail: Subscription@CambodiaInsight.com @ Copyright Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. The name Cambodia Insight.com, in either English or Khmer languages, its associated logos or devices and the contents of this publication and website may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without written permission of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Cambodia Insight.com is a wholly owned publication and website of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Licensed by the Ministry of Information.

Although every care has been taken in the production of this magazine and website, no responsibility for errors or liability is assumed through the use of the information contained herein.

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Cambodia Insight.com is an independent publication dedicated to providing our readers with informative content presented in a positive light helping to boost business investment, tourism, cultural awareness and the image of the country.

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Siem Reap Riverside Hotel • Comfortable room with Fan & A/C • Cable TV with Satellite programs • Hot & Cold Shower, Clean Water • Full Internet Access, High speed in the room E-mail

• Roof top balcony for relaxing • Currency Exchange and Laundry • Helpful Service • Helpful Food Service • Sun bathing on the roof top

: booking@siemreapriverside.net sales@siemreapriverside.net Facebook: Siem Reap Riverside Website : www.siemreapriverside.net Address : #481, Sivatha Blvd, Svay Dangkom District, SiemReap Cambodia

Mobile: Tel: Fax:

+855 (0) 12 517 000 +855 (0) 63 760 177 +855 (0) 63 760 277

Old Market area, Alongside of the river.

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CAMBODIA GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR 2012

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rganized by Cambodian Ministry of Commerce in association with Hong Kong’s World Trade Fair (International) Limited (International sole agent), the annual national flagship jewelry fair - The 4th Cambodia Gems & Jewelry Fair (4th CGJF), will be held on June 14 to 17, 2012 at Diamond Island Convention & Exhibition Centre (Koh Pich), at the Kingdom’s capital city Phnom Penh.

The Fair has been positioned as the most important sourcing platform in the country, presenting the Cambodian gems and jewelry to the overseas markets and bringing the finest international diamonds, gemstones, fine jewelry designs and timepieces to the country.

With the fast growing market of over 14 million population, Cambodia has emerged as one of the safest nations and most attractive economies in the region.

An average GDP growth of 8% in the past 10 years has exceeded all expectations, and through its membership in ASEAN (since 1999) and in the World Trade Organization (since 2004), the country has made tremendous progress in integrating its emerging economy into the

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regional and global trading system. H.E. Dr. Cham Prasidh, Senior Minister, Minister of Commerce, added that “our country has possessed four fundamental advantages political stability; macro - economic stability; a sound, transparent & predictable legal framework and many trade preferences. And the success of CGJF is greatly attributed to the growing trend of the markets in gems and jewelry in Cambodia as well as in the region and the world.”

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Extensive marketing & promotion campaigns: Pre - show newsletters to local & international trade buyers 3,000 VIPs invitations to foreign diplomats, government oďŹƒcials and trade buyers 50,000 invitations & admission tickets to company’s directors and senior management Around 1,500 advertising billboards and hanging banners around the Phnom Penh city Advertisements & press releases in popular newspapers and magazines Advertising at 5 - 7 TV channels SMS to past visitors Leaflet distribution via hotels, banks and travel agents - Live music performances presented by popular singers - Concurrent jewelry parades showing the latest breathtaking jewelry collections - Daily lucky draws with total value of prizes over US$12,000 sponsored by World Trade Fair http://www.cambodiatradefair.org/4th/

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Precious gemstones in Cambodia 14

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Precious gemstones in Cambodia

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ambodia is rich in many varieties of gems, but let’s talk here about precious gems only – sapphires, rubies and emeralds. The most famous Cambodian mines are located in Pailin. Sapphires from Pailin are considered among the best sapphires in the world, there’s even a special color grade “Pailin” used in jewelry for classification of blue sapphires.

Besides sapphires, Pailin has ruby and emerald mines, however, production of emeralds is minimal. Most part of emeralds you find in Cambodia are imported from India.

If you plan to purchase precious gemstones in Cambodia, mention that there are no gemological institutes or professional experts who may verify your stone and provide you with an official certificate.

Your success depends on your knowledge in this domain, seller’s honesty, your personal luck and your intuition. When buying stones, don’t forget that export of precious gemstones is illegal in Cambodia unless you buy finished 16

jewelry products – rings, bracelets or pendants with gems. But is it still profitable: the price you pay for a sapphire ring will anyway be much lower comparing with European markets. Gold used for jewelry in Cambodia is often a base - alloy and doesn’t correspond to international standards.

If you are serious about jewelry business, better to test local gold with reagents; you can find them in many specialized shops.

Cambodian jewelry market is flooded by fake stones. Don’t even pay attention to an extraordinary $17 offer for a silver bracelet massively decorated with small blue “Cambodian sapphires” – it is fake for sure, as well as two-carat rubies just for $50 each.

Even in big central shops you risk to pay a sapphire price for a piece of colored glass.

Certificates issued by street jewelry boutiques are not to be trusted. Another common fraud – sellers show you a positive reply from a

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diamond tester. What a genial idea!

– considering that diamond testers may never be used for sapphires.

Natural sapphires cost $12 per stone for smallest specimens of 0.05 – 0.30 carat, $20 for half - carat stones and over $100 for stones bigger then 1 carat. Ruby prices are slightly higher.

The value of the stone highly depends on color intensity, clarity and quality of cut. Moreover, price depends on a special treatment method: heat treatment significantly improves the color of sapphire crystal.

Such stones are known as “heated”. Heat treatment is officially accepted in gemology world, over 90% of all sapphires and rubies selling worldwide are heated.

However, real connoisseurs and collectors hunt for unheated gems. In average, prices of unheated stones are 25-30% higher.

tradition to set up the price by eye. Bargain! Long negotiation may help obtaining a discount up to 30%. The best way is to find a reputable jeweler.

Ask somebody who already bought gemstones and check them after – they certainly can recommend you a reliable seller.

Don’t discuss this matter with local tourist guides – they will address you to places they work for and receive commissions from sales.

They don’t care if their favorite sellers are honest or not, they suppose you will never be back in Cambodia in the future.

But, regardless of big risks, some lucky foreigners still have chance to leave the country with high quality gems bought for relatively low prices. www.voiceofcambodia.com

So where to buy? You can find jewelry booths at any big market in Phnom Penh or Siem-Reap. The Russian market (Psaa Tul Tum Pum) or Yellow market (Psaa Tmai) in Phnom Penh have large jewelry areas.

There are several big shops around Yellow market, with similar choice and quality of goods. Prices in these shops are higher but you shouldn’t rely on it. In addition, prices are never indicated – this is an old Khmer APRIL - JUNE , 2012

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The Cities in Cambodia that have Gem Stones Rattanakiri, located in the north - east of Cambodia, is abundantly endowed with precious natural resources such as natural gems and stones (only second to Paillin Provinces gem endowment). With the expectation of benefiting from these natural resources, investment companies with specialists in mines and gems exploration established and run their businesses in Rattanak Kiri, especially in Borkeo district, Oh Sieng Lai Camp, Seven Waterfalls and in Bey Srok Village.

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Uniqueness: Different colors exist such as purple, yellow, dark - blue and black shiny (Nill).

The quality is identified by the solidity of gems.

Paillin’s gems are regarded as being the best in Cambodia by having 9 solid substance.

Ratanakiri’s gems are regarded as having the second best quality having a solid substance of 7.30, and other gems and stones from various provinces have unripe solid substance.

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SWIMMING IN SIHANOUK VILLE Have a Weekend Getaway from hot sun to cool down in Sihanouk Ville

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ihanouk Ville, also known as “Kampong Som,” is like a Florida resort town dropped oddly on Cambodia’s southern coast, on the Gulf of Thailand. Founded a mere 50 years ago as a deep - water port, Sihanouk Ville experienced a tourist boom in the 1960s when local and visiting beachgoers headed to the coast, looking for sand and sun without crossing into Thailand.

As a result, much of the shorefront property has been scooped up by moderately luxurious resorts. Budget tourists still have plenty of options, however, with a few backpacker hotspots sandwiching the posher hotels.

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Victory Beach’s charmingly weathered bungalows hearken the area’s heyday as a gathering ground for 70s hippie backpackers.

The guesthouses are cosy and the people are some of Cambodia’s friendliest, though the port on the northern end of the beach makes for a mediocre swimming experience.

Occheuteal Beach, nicknamed Serendipity Beach, is the newest traveler hangout, with a long stretch of restaurants and bars opening out onto beautiful turquoise waters, Otres Beach is approximately a 15 - minute drive from Ochheuteal.

It is a bit basic, having no public electricity and water. The few establishments there are use their own electric generators. Instead of numerous bars and restaurants, Otres has grass shacks here on the beachfront and dollar - beds for rent to backpackers, there are a few restaurants and boats for rent.

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Small guesthouses on the beachfront offer cheap rooms as well, recommended to travel to or from Otres after dark as there is no electricity on the road.

The clean sand, shallow water and smooth ground on the beaches makes Sihanouk Ville a popular holiday spot for Cambodian families.

Every weekend, the beaches fill up with crowds of people swimming by day and dancing by night.

Unlike the party islands in Thailand or the old French resort towns in Vietnam, Sihanouk Ville is a unique vacation spot where Western and local tourism co - exist along the shore.

Chatty restaurant staff practices their English, pick - up games of football are played out on the beach, and children sit beside groups of backpackers to build temples and chides in the sand.

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Interactions aren’t all amicable, With tourism as its economic backbone, the beach is a well trodden path for vendors, encouraging visitors to buy their cold drinks, handmade jewelry, and bright sarongs.

The cute - but - aggressive boys who weave bracelets for their customers speak some of the best English in Cambodia, and they’ll use it persistently to make a sale.

Pushy merchants aside, Sihanouk Ville invites a rare social amalgamation of Cambodian and foreign beachgoers. This is the best place to skip the pan - western menu at your guesthouse bar and head to the beach with the Cambodian vacationers for some inexpensive and fantastically fresh BBQ seafood.

Tasty prawn, crab, and tuna are par for the course, but daring eaters can sample the more

avant - garde local delicacies of fresh - caught shark and jellyfish.

The city itself is fairly unexceptional, offering the standard amenities of banks, post offices, and small markets.

If the weather takes a turn or travelers get waterlogged from the beach, the town has some standout restaurant/bars that will revive one’s spirits. Angkor Arms is a British pub that fares well with expats.

It boasts a comfortable, vibrant patio and all the draught you may be missing from home.

Down the street, Dusk til Dawn is a rooftop bar whose liveliness that lives up to its name.

Back at the beach, a busy weekend means no shortage of activity along the shores of

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Occheuteal Beach. It may be diďŹƒcult to separate the bars from the impromptu dance parties as you walk down the strip, but you will be welcome into either.

At the southern end of Serendipity Beach, the Dolphin shack (look for the neon blue dolphin sign) employs some of the nicest Cambodian bartenders you’ll ever meet.

Take a seat with the witty owner and let her funny, sentimental stories entertain you all night. Anne Merritt is Canadian and has an English Literature degree. She has worked as a journalist for a university newspaper.

She is currently living in Ayutthaya as an ESL teacher and is sharing her experience of Thailand with www.KhaoSanRoad.com

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An Awarding Country with Pristine tropical islands WORLD’S SECOND FAVOURITE LONG - HAUL DESTINATION

BEST OVERSEAS TOURISM INITIATIVE

Cambodia was voted the world’s second favourite long - haul destination for British tourists at the 2009 Guardian, Observer and guardian.co.uk Travel Awards in the UK. Cambodia finished second to New Zealand and ahead of Chile (3); Vietnam (4); and Japan (5).

ConCERT - a Siem Reap based organisation that helps tourists support local worthy causes - has won the prestigious British Guild of Travel Writers’ Award for the Best Overseas Tourism Initiative.

The award is given for the best new (less than two years old) overseas tourism project, which not only has tourist potential but is of benefit to the local community and environment.

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Organisations from around the world are nominated by guild members and ConCERT was one of 8 projects in the overseas tourism category.

The other two finalists selected were the Magritte Museum, the former home of the artist René Magritte in Brussels, and the 12km Al-Ayoun Trail in Jordan, the country’s first ever cooperative run tourism venture.

ConCERT was nominated by Hilary Bradt, one of Britain’s most distinguished travel authors,

who the same evening won the guild’s lifetime achievement award.

ConCERT’s founder and chairman Michael Horton joined Hilary in London to collect the award in the presence of over 300 leading travel journalists and authors.

Horton, originally from North Yorkshire in England, has been involved with development work in south-east Asia since 1998 and founded ConCERT in 2008. (www.concertcambodia.org).

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WORLD TRAVEL AWARD Le Meridien Angkor was awarded the titles ‘Cambodia’s Leading Hotel’ and ‘Cambodia’s Leading Spa Resort’, for the third consecutive year at the 16th World Travel Awards Regional Ceremony in London on 7 November 2009.

The awards are based on the votes of over 170,000 industry professionals worldwide for the very best travel, tourism and hospitality products and services.

The hotel’s general manager, Gregory Anderson, said this award was a “superb testament” to the work of his dedicated management team and associates over recent years.

Le Méridien Angkor is located close to the Angkor Wat temple complex and is 14 kilometres from Siem Reap International Airport.

Koh Kong

Cardamom Mountains

KOH KONG IS KING Lonely Planet has listed Cambodia’s Koh Kong province among its top-ten regions for 2010 in its Best in Travel 2010 publication.

Released in November 2009, Best in Travel 2010 is the publisher’s fifth annual collection of the world’s best journeys, destinations, and experiences for the coming year.

The guidebook presents the top ten countries, regions, and cities to visit in 2010, chosen by Lonely Planet’s global team.

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Also included are a 2010 travel planner and 17 travel lists, including ‘2010’s Best - Value Destinations’ and ‘Top Ten Airports’. www.lonelyplanet.com Located in south-west Cambodia, Koh Kong province has a long undeveloped coastline and a mountainous, forested and largely inaccessible interior which embraces part of the Cardamom Mountains and a section of Kirirom National Park.

The province is an increasingly popular gateway to Cambodia from Hat Lek in south

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- east Thailand. However, tourists entering Cambodia by this route should be aware of the illegal ‘visa processing fees’ charged by the Cambodian immigration officials, irrespective of whether they already have a visa or not.

Koh Kong is linked to Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville by National Route 4. The road is newly surfaced and has five new bridges across attractive rivers.

The Cardamom Mountains are one of Asia’s most pristine ecological areas but also one of its most inaccessible, so this route provides a unique glimpse of Cambodia’s least developed and unspoiled region.

Border crossing aside, travelling by road to Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville via this route is a scenic and enjoyable experience. Alternatively, taking the boat from Koh Kong town around the coast to Sihanoukville can also be enjoyable,

provided you don’t try this in the rainy season when the seas can be quite rough.

(Tourists should be aware that the fast narrow passenger boats plying this route were designed for river travel, not the open sea, and being seated inside leaves little hope of escape should the boat overturn.)

Koh Kong Island has one of the best beaches in south - east Asia. Day tours and overnight adventure trips to Koh Kong Island and other Islands in Koh Kong province, as well as the Pream Krasop mangroves (Asia’s largest), waterfalls, trekking, and 4 wheel - drive Cardamom Mountain tours are all available from Koh Kong Divers.

Koh Kong Divers also offer PADI courses and daily dive trips and snorkelling to Cambodia’s best diving sites. www.kohkongdivers.com.

Koh Kong

Koh Kong

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Koh Rong

Koh Rong

Koh Tang

PRISTINE TROPICAL ISLANDS

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Served by a new international airport and easily reached from the coastal hubs of Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong, Cambodia’s unspoilt islands stand poised to be revealed to the world, as leases have been granted to local and international companies who plan to develop resorts.

Koh Rong is the largest of Cambodia’s 22 islands and is easily reached by boat from Sihanoukville. The island offers secluded beaches and exclusive diving. At present there is little or no development on the island, but that is about to change as a 99 - year lease of Koh Rong has been awarded to the Millenium Group who are seeking investors to develop the island.

But for now, most of the islands remain unpopulated and untarnished by tourism; offering secluded white sand beaches and stunning tropical scenery.

Koh Tang is located four hours by boat from the mainland and three hours south - west of Koh Rong. The island is uninhabited apart from a small military presence.

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The waters around Koh Tang offer world - class diving with a stunning diversity of fish, corals and rocky reefs.

Nearby Koh Prins has two wrecks to dive. “The remoteness from the mainland makes Koh Tang an exclusive diving trip,” says local diving operator Scuba Nation www.divecambodia. com.

Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)

Koh Tang is well known as the site of the infamous Mayagüez incident of 1975 in which the Khmer Rouge captured a US ship.

Other unspoilt islands include Koh Russei (Bamboo Island) which can be reached by private boat from Sihanoukville, or from the beach near Ream National Park (about 20km east of Sihanoukville), and Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) off the coast of Kep - long - tail boats go to Koh Tonsay every morning from Kep.

Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)

Koh Tang

Koh Tang

Koh Tang

Koh Russei (Bamboo Island)

Koh Russei (Bamboo Island) APRIL - JUNE , 2012

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Koh Rong . . .

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SUSTAINABLE TOURISM The importance of tourism to Cambodia’s future economy by Michael Horton After more than a decade of spectacular growth, how can the tourism industry in Cambodia respond to the more demanding market conditions now faced by holiday destinations worldwide? In common with all periods of adversity, the current situation also presents opportunities for those willing and able to respond to the challenges ahead.

as a holistic destination in its own right. In recent years the question taxing most industry players was how to increase the yield from each tourist: how to encourage them to stay longer; how to add more value? With visitor numbers expected to fall, this has assumed a greater priority, and is now joined by the question of how to keep up the numbers.

Undoubtedly and quite rightly, any future Cambodian tourism experience is going to involve the Angkor temples. This World Heritage Site has driven tourism development and it has been relatively easy and inexpensive to improve the infrastructure around a small area of Siem Reap to produce world class,

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Tourism has played an important role in the development of Cambodia. It has brought employment, improvements in infrastructure, training and general education and living standards for many people, and raised the international profile of Cambodia. Its growth has helped diversify economic activity, and broaden the base of foreign earnings, currently dominated by the garment industry.

But the tourism industry itself needs to diversify and mature. More needs to be done to both promote, and to support Cambodia

5-star experiences - a modern airport, easy transfers the short distance to town, a wide range of accommodation types, an impressive range of restaurants, and other tourism related businesses.

The problem is that it has been all too easy to develop the tourism industry around Angkor.

A typical itinerary combines a few days in Siem Reap plus a visit to Phnom Penh with the whole trip maybe lasting less than a week, and often as an add on to a longer regional tour. This makes Cambodia vulnerable as demonstrated by the knock on effect of problems at Bangkok airport at the end of 2008, which seriously affected arrivals.

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Another result of these whistle stop tours of Angkor/Siem Reap – Phnom Penh is that many visitors take away a narrow and distorted view of the country, one in which a stroll down “Pub Street” in Siem Reap is often seen as a glimpse of the “real” Cambodia.

more of the country are in place already and these are proving highly popular. Visitor satisfaction is high, with a general feeling that for a small, compact country, Cambodia has much to offer, as alluded to by the Ministry of Tourism’s slogan, ‘Kingdom of Wonder’.

The first priority in promoting Cambodia as a destination in its own right is to develop more extensive trips that take advantage of ongoing improvements in roads and infrastructure.

A number of 10 to 15 day tours covering much

In addition to the world class cultural experience of the temples, and the unique phenomenon of Tonle Sap, there are pristine rainforests, exotic wildlife, remote wildernesses, the mighty Mekong, unrivalled beaches and islands, a wide range of seaside

resorts, very varied topography and land use, (not evident to the traveller between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh). Also of significance and interest is the all pervading, historical, cultural, social and political impact of the recent past.

Expansion of tourism into the virgin rainforests of the Cardamoms, or the north - east provinces of Rattanakiri and Mondulkiri, or development of the islands, could soon destroy the very attractions themselves.

The second opportunity for growth is to develop new Cambodian tourist attractions in an environmentally sustainable way.

Fortunately, ecotourism demands a premium that people will pay, and this can fund the development of environmentally sensitive resorts. Once built, the operating costs of low impact facilities are lower than other establishments, and the higher prices help boost long term profitability. Low impact eco tours also help to preserve the uniqueness of Cambodia.

This includes the mainstream activities in addition to eco - tourism itself. Tours to include Cambodia’s lesser visited provincial centres can be developed easily, and the infrastructure is largely in place.

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A third component should be the development and promotion of the wider responsible tourism practices. Along with the benefits that tourism undoubtedly brings, the largely unplanned and rapid development of Siem Reap and the coast around Sihanoukville has resulted in many environmental and social issues.

These not only aect the local communities but negatively impact tourists’ experiences and so reduce long term profitability. Adopting practices that benefit the poor and disadvantaged in communities around

businesses to improve their CSR performance.

The real challenge is to engage the Asian tour operators in the above processes and develop more sustainable mass tourism activities.

Cambodia is still a welcoming place to do business.

The government encourages investment by allowing 100 per cent foreign ownership of businesses, it is easy to arrange long leases on properties, and there are new developments which will open up the possibility of obtaining leasehold title to property, though non-Cambodian nationals cannot own land.

Those with the government’s ear should be championing policies that seize the current opportunities for change, and move

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the tourism centres, not only benefits the communities but is a smart marketing and promotional tool with the potential to increase business, extend the length of stay, open up new markets, and encourage repeat business.

In comparison with the longer established tourism industry in neighbouring Thailand where people return again and again, few people come back to Cambodia. In the past it has been time consuming and labour intensive to establish and sustain links with local communities, but new initiatives being introduced in Siem Reap are making it easier for

Cambodian tourism onto a broader and more sustainable footing.

About the author Michael Horton has been delivering development projects across South East Asia since 1998 and first came to Cambodia in 2006. He lives in Siem Reap where he works on socially and environmentally responsible tourism initiatives.

He is a director of AardvarkFieldfare (www. aardvarkfieldfare.com) a UK based joint venture between two environmental services companies, and director and founder of ConCERT (www.concertcambodia.org).

Last updated: 2011 - Tourism Promotion Board Royal Embassy of Cambodia - UK

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LET’S START OUR TRAVEL TO

CAMBODIA

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CAMBODIA’S ART OF SURVIVAL

The country’s rich artistic culture was destroyed in the 70s by the brutal Khmer Rouge regime.

Today, despite terrible poverty, a revival is taking place – and it is gaining international recognition

Down a dusty road littered with motorbikes and tuk-tuks, past the charred red monument to independence and through a leafy courtyard populated by stray dogs, there stands a derelict-looking, 1960s cinderblock school in Phnom Penh where, on weekends, the atonal sounds of Khmer opera waft out of its shuttered windows.

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In this ad-hoc dance studio, 15 pairs of feet are pointing delicately upwards, in geometric contrast to the checkered tiles on the floor.

As the partners twirl side by side, their fingers bent backwards, shy smiles on their young faces, repeated patterns emerge in their footsteps.

“Cambodian folk dance is a visual form of storytelling, about religion, nature, weddings and funerals,” whispers Neang Visal, 21, a dancer who is looking on. “This dance, the krama dance, is about farming.”

It is hard to imagine a paean to agriculture that would have the same clout in the west today. But in a nation that lost 90% of its artists, musicians, dancers and intellectuals to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime of 1975-79, remembering the past is a vital aspect of safeguarding the future.

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Now that a UN-backed war crimes tribunal is investigating past atrocities, studios such as this one - part of the American not - for - profit Cambodian Living Arts (CLA) organisation - as well as government - run art and music courses, international funding and determined local artists, are helping Cambodians to embrace their cultural heritage once again.

Long known for its artistic traditions – most famously demonstrated by the temples of Angkor Wat – this nation of 14.8 million was once home to a vibrant contemporary art and music scene that saw psychedelic rock groups, led by Sinn Sisamouth and Ros Sereysothea, take south-east Asia by storm.

But when the Khmer Rouge took power – with their slogan “To keep you is no gain; to lose you is no loss” – many artists were a direct

target of the new order that killed an estimated 2 million Cambodians within four years.

Twenty years of economic hardship followed, preventingCambodia from regenerating itself artistically. Now the nation’s cultural future depends on organisations such as the CLA, which was founded by a Khmer Rouge survivor.

It teaches classical Cambodian dance and music to some 300 students, aged five to 30, relying on “masters” – those few dancers and musicians who survived the Khmer Rouge – to instruct students in a circular education programme where students become teachers once they have learned their trade.

Most artists earn just $50 (£31) a month, so it is unsurprising that many would - be musicians and dancers look for more lucrative trades.

Yet Khmer artists must pursue their art, says

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Long Oun, 48, a roneet (xylophone) teacher who doubles as a musician for the ministry of culture and fine arts and regularly performs for the king in royal ensembles for less than $2 a day.

“Cambodia is a developing country, so we focus on healthcare and education, but we need to cultivate the arts sector, and the government has a lot to do,” he says. “But as individuals we also need to work hard to make a viable future for ourselves.”

That, however, requires a capable government, says an insider with close ties to the ministry, who requests anonymity. “The reality is that the ministry of culture and fine arts is one of the poorest in Cambodia and has very limited power. They focus on keeping Cambodian arts alive, but there’s simply not enough money to do that.”

Consequently, much of Cambodia’s artistic regeneration is left to NGOs and large international funders, he says, which “inherently puts a neocolonialist edge on the art that’s created. But if you gave artists a living salary, then you wouldn’t have to cater to what the west wants to see.”

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Contemporary performing arts group Amrita recently faced a similar dilemma after funding cuts from their main donor, the Rockefeller Foundation, says project coordinator Kang Rithisal.

“We had to rescale: instead of having lots of different projects in both contemporary and traditional arts, we decided to stick to what we were really good at – the contemporary,” he says.

Amrita’s shows focus on modern-day issues: in Breaking the Silence, Khmer Rouge victims are forced to face the soldiers who killed their families. The play toured Cambodia to rave reviews and is now heading to Rwanda, another victim of genocide.

But, like many contemporary art groups, Amrita faces a “cultural barrier” in getting Cambodians interested in an essentially very new art form. “People come to see us and they wonder what we’re doing, but the more they see it, the more they’ll get used to it,” Rithisal says, admitting that money is an issue.

“Cambodians say they like going to performances, but they’re not willing to pay the money to sustain a performance or dancer’s salary.”

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That’s why some organisations are now targeting the Cambodian middle - class to create a sustainable, local culture scene that transcends those “neocolonialist” tendencies.

At Romeet Gallery, on Street 218, Kate O’Hara exhibits contemporary work from up-andcoming Khmer artists from Phare Ponleu Selpak, an NGO in Battambang in the north - west of the country. Here, huge black - and - white watercolour portraits of Khmer Rouge prisoners hang next to moody, Rothko - like abstracts.

“Our buyers are definitely international right now – some are visitors to Phnom Penh, others are working here on the UN [war crimes tribunal] case,” she says. “But we’re trying to encourage local buyers by capturing the middle - class, fashion-week market, showing them that art is worth investing in.”

On the international art scene, at least, Cambodia is becoming increasingly popular. From April to May next year, New York City will host the first - ever Season of Cambodia, which will see 200 Khmer artists perform across an interdisciplinary platform.

The date already has culture hawks talking.

“There’s a buzz about what’s going on here,” says contemporary art-buyer and director Andrew Fitzgerald of the Toronto - based pop - up gallery East. “With the Season of Cambodia show coming up, we want to include more peripheral countries in south-east Asia in our gallery.

What’s interesting about Cambodia particularly are these common themes of self-identity and memory.” Bands such as Dengue Fever, with their Khmer - surf rock influences, and Krom Monster, which mixes traditional Khmer music in an electronic format, have helped to create a new sense of Cambodian identity and memory.

But not everyone is ready to deal with such themes, it seems, particularly the government, which some say could strike against artist or gallery at any time.

“This fear of being shut down at random, of threats against artists – one was recently told he’d have his hands cut off – terrifies me,” says one gallery owner, requesting anonymity.

“People here just disappear. It’s not about the law, it’s about what goes unsaid. That’s why self-censorship is so rampant.”

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Photographer Lim Sokchanlina, who co - founded the conceptual art space Sa Sa Bassac to explore themes such as sexual identity, social justice and urban development, says the only way around that is by being sneaky.

In his series My Motorbike and Me, he poses on a motorbike as an illegal country doctor, selling bogus medicine; as a policeman, asleep on the job. “There’s a saying in Cambodia, ‘Flow with the river’,” he says. “You can say what you want, but you have to be clever about it – and for me that means being funny.”

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However hard things may be now, they are a welcome break from the past, says Ros Veasna, 63, a classical Khmer singer who trained withSinn Sisamouth before the Khmer Rouge marched to power in 1975.

“I could have done any other work when I left the work camp,” she says. “But it was, and still is, only singing that makes me happy.” www.guardian.co.uk

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Near Cambodia’s Temple Ruins, a Devotion to Learning

Millions of tourists come here every year to visit the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat, an influx that has helped transform what once resembled a small, laid-back village into a thriving and cosmopolitan town with thumping nightlife and more than 10,000 hotel rooms.

But the explosion of the tourism industry here has also done something less predictable. Siem Reap, which had no universities a decade ago, is now Cambodia’s second-largest hub for higher education, after the capital, Phnom Penh.

The sons and daughters of impoverished rice farmers flock here to work as tour guides, receptionists, bartenders and waitresses.

When their shifts are over, they study finance, English and accounting.

“I never imagined that I could go to university,”

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said Hem Sophoan, a 31-year-old tour guide who is now studying for his second master’s degree. “There’s been so much change and opportunities for young people.”

The establishment of five private universities here is helping to transform the work force in this part of Cambodia, one of Asia’s poorest countries and a society still living in the shadow of the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge.

Employers say that English proficiency is rising and that workers who attend universities stand out for their ability to express themselves and make decisions.

A generation of students who would otherwise have had little hope to study beyond high school are enduring grueling schedules to get a degree and pursue their dreams.

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Khim Borin, a 26 - year-old tour guide by day and law student by night, says he wants to become a lawyer. But he sometimes has trouble staying awake in class during the high tourist season, when he spends hours scaling vertiginous temple steps and baking in the tropical sun.

“I tell my friends, ‘Hit me if you see me falling asleep,”’ he said.

The son of a household, Mr. bartender and air-conditioners tour guide.

broken and impoverished Khim Borin worked as a a masseur and installed at hotels before becoming a

He summarizes his life as “hard but happy.”

The five universities in Siem Reap currently enroll more than 10,000 students. Most of the campuses, which are scattered around the town, are quiet during the day but come to life with the buzz of students’ motorcycles as soon as the sun sets.

The United Nations and foreign aid organizations have had an oversize role in helping steer the country since the Khmer Rouge were driven from power more than three decades ago. But the symbiosis of work and study here came together without any master plan.

It was driven largely by supply and demand: universities opened to cater to the dreams of Cambodia’s youth - and offered flexible hours in sync with the rhythms of the tourist industry.

University administrators say 80 to 90 percent of the students hold full - time jobs.

“They come here, find a job first, and then they start their bachelor degree,” said Rous Bunthy, vice president for administrative affairs at the University of South - East Asia, which opened here in 2006 and has an enrollment of 2,300.

Most students pay the annual tuition of $400 themselves, Mr. Rous Bunthy said. “Some of their parents can help a little - maybe $10 a month,” he said.

Although the fees are a small fraction of what private universities in more developed countries charge, students often struggle to pay, administrators say.

“The main problem is financial support,” said That Bunsay, vice president of administrative affairs at the Siem Reap branch of Build Bright University, the largest in Siem Reap with about 5,000 enrolled.

“They need to find money first and then go to school - money is the first priority,” Mr. That Bunsay said.

Luckier students get sponsorship from foreigners. On a recent evening, an Argentine insurance saleswoman on vacation here, Maria Theresa Landoni, waited outside Mr. That Bunsay’s office. She had come to the university to pay the tuition of a young woman who wanted to study tourism.

Ms. Landoni recounted how she struck up a friendship with the driver of her tuk - tuk, the open-air motorized rickshaws popular here, and met his daughter during a visit to the family’s house.

“They were very, very, very poor,” Ms. Landoni said. “This is a country that has suffered a lot.”

Ms. Landoni said she agreed to pay one semester’s worth of fees for the daughter: $180.

“I don’t have a lot of money,” Ms. Landoni said.

“But I have enough for that.”

All five of the universities in Siem Reap are privately owned, and some are for - profit institutions. But administrators say it will be years before the owners of the universities make money. The wealthy Cambodians who back the schools seem to see them largely as philanthropic ventures.

“The shareholders say they are wasting their money compared with other investments,” said Mr. Rous Bunthy of the University of South - East Asia.

“But they are happy because they are helping people.” Among his university’s shareholders

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are the owner of a clothing wholesale business, a beer magnate, the owner of a supermarket chain and the founder of a successful English - teaching school.

The quality of the universities in Siem Reap is uneven, says Mr. Hem Sophoan, the tour guide, who is studying for a master’s in public administration.

“They are thinking about quantity first - to support their business. They are happy if they have many students. They want market share,” he said of the universities.

Many graduates seem to have stayed with their employers and moved up, their degrees having made them better prospects for managerial roles. But it is too early to draw conclusions about whether the degrees are leading to better jobs.

The six - year - old University of South East Asia, for example, has had only two graduating classes, and they were small.

Still, Mr. Hem Sophoan and other students say that despite any shortcomings at the universities, the experience of attending classes and obtaining a degree is transformative.

Chan Sreyroth, a 29 - year - old manager at a company that owns restaurants in Siem Reap, says she sees a big difference in her employees who attend universities.

“The difference is that they have a dream,” said Ms. Chan Sreyroth, who oversees around 250 employees, many of them students. “After they study, they are not scared anymore. They want to be something.”

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Ms. Chan Sreyroth and others say they are lucky that Angkor’s temples have proved so popular with tourists.

If it were not for the sandstone structures nestled in the jungles, Siem Reap would probably have remained a backwater. Last year, 3.3 million tourists visited Siem Reap, half of them foreigners, according to the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism.

Kong Soeun, the deputy director of the local tourism office, is trying to convince others in the tourism industry that Siem Reap should declare an annual day of remembrance for the people who built the temples.

After graduation, students who work and study at the same time often have an edge over fresh graduates who have never worked before, for whom starting a career can be difficult, Ms. Chan Sreyroth and others say.

He says the tourist industry helped resurrect his life. His early years were shattered by the Khmer Rouge. Of 11 brothers and sisters, 6 disappeared. But he put himself through university with income earned as a tour guide, earned a law degree and dreams of becoming a crusading lawyer.

University students are “more communicative,” she said. “If they don’t like something, they speak out.”

“We should remember their souls,” Mr. Kong Soeun said of his forebears who built Angkor Wat. “These temples are a very great thing.”

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