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Digital Magazine July - Sept., 2012

Teuk Chhou Zoo

By Footprints

Cambodia no longer a one - Temple Pony

10 - Step Guide To Siem Reap

Cambodia’s 10 Greatest Street Food Cities

V I C T O R

I A

Explore the World Heritage Angkor Temples and immerse yourself in the Khmer empire. The Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, inspired by 20th century colonial architecture and design, provides a sense of serenity with the nostalgic comfort and elegant reĮnement of the French Art de Vivre.

In total harmony ha ny with w its natural surroundings, roun ndings, the the resort is situated in the heart heart of Siem m Reap, opposite o posite the th Royal Park.

Located to Park Locate d within cclose ose proximity prox the Angkor old Angko Temples, Temples the quaint qua market town tow wn of SSiem iem Reap and 7 km. (4 miles) from the InternaƟonal Airport. m In ernaƟonal A Transport with Transp port yourself yoursel into the past p our thre three limousines, ee vintage Citroen lim ousines, personalized airport transfers, tran nsfers, a trip tr for personalized around the the town or a visit to the Temples. ples.

VICTORIA ORIA ANGKOR RESORT & SPA Central Boxx 9314 93145, al Park, P.O. B Siem m Reap Town, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: +85563 760 428 Fax: Fa +855 63 760 350 resa.angkor@victoriahotels.asia re resa.a gkor@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia otels.asia

PUBLISHER’S NOTE Dear Readers, It’s hard to imagine anything that’s harder, more fun, and ultimately more satisfying, than completing the first 2.5 years of a new venture still standing.

This issue of Cambodia Insight is our eleventh quarterly publication. It’s been, as the Navy promises, not a job but an adventure.

Heartfelt thanks to our many readers. You’ve proven again and again that you’ll visit an online publication. We appreciate your attention, as well as your comments and suggestions. Every one of them was read, and many adopted. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, too, to our advertisers. We don’t charge our many readers, and your generous support has made this possible. We hope that your business has benefited from the attention your ads garnered both locally and internationally. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, as well, to our contributors.

You’ve supplied us with interesting – indeed fascinating – insights into this Land of Wonder and its warm, welcoming people. The quality of your work shone brightly. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, finally, to our staff. You’ve worked tirelessly and without complaint under the pressures of deadlines.

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You’ve brought creativity to Cambodia Insight, along with a full measure of talent, hard work and good spirits. We’re grateful.

As we look ahead to 2013, we’re encouraged that we’ve weathered the initial growing pains and can focus now even more on producing the leading publication about Cambodian life, business, culture, and especially responsible tourism.

What will future issues bring? We’ll continue to spotlight the growing numbers of visitors and investors, the important role of investment and relations with our neighbors. And most of all we’ll continue to bring to our readers the wonders of the Land of Wonders, our adopted home.

As always, your readership, your advertising support, and your comments will help us make this the leading publication of its kind on the internet. We’re truly grateful.

Sincerely,

Charles R. Evans, Publisher Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200 Fax: 63.969.201 H/P: 017.906.721 Charles@CorporateMarketingIntl.com

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

CONTENTS Cambodia: No longer a one - Temple Pony

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10 - Step Guide To Siem Reap

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Cambodia’s 10 Greatest Street Foods

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Teuk Chhou Zoo

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In Cambodia, a Start - Up Combines Web Sales Skills and Hair Extensions

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Should Cambodian ‘blood antiquities’ be returned?

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Map

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Victoria Angkor Hotel

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Ta Som Guesthouse Room Amenities • A/c rooms available • Fan Rooms Available • Cable/Satellite TV in room • Refrigerator in room • Hot/Cold Water

info@tasomguesthouse.com www.tasom-guesthouse.com

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#268 Nat. Route 6, (Airport Road,) Taphul Village, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Hotel Facilities • Restaurant • Room Service • 24-hour room service • Laundry Services

• Tour/Travel Services • Travel/Tour Information • Free airport/ferry shuttle • Internet access in hotel

Tel: +(855)(0)63-964970, +(855)(0)12-830170, +(855)(0)12-772660 Fax: +(855)(0)63-967268

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A Quarterly Magazine on Business, Economy, Tourism, Culture and Society in English for Cambodia.

Founded in Siem Reap City in January, 2010 by Evans Marketing Charles R. Evans Don Finck Don Finck Kanyapat Evans Jeroen Mylho Savuth Sao Atchariya Priabnan Seriya Chan Bunleab Hong Mookda Jamsai Eric Larbouillat Peter Richards

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Publisher and Managing Director Editor - in - Chief Senior Creative Director Creative Director Art Director Manager, Graphic Design & Print Production Graphic & Web Design Sr. Webmaster & Programmer Jr. Webmaster & Programmer Production Assistant Sales Executive Thailand Bureau Chief

20 Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co. Ltd., Wat Damnak Village, 0453 Sala Kam Reuk Commune, Group 4, Siem Reap - Angkor, 17000, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200/201 Fax: +855 (0) 63.969.201.

Advertising & Subscriptions E-Mail: Advertising@CambodiaInsight.com E-Mail: Subscription@CambodiaInsight.com

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@ Copyright Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. The name Cambodia Insight.com, in either English or Khmer languages, its associated logos or devices and the contents of this publication and website may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without written permission of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Cambodia Insight.com is a wholly owned publication and website of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Licensed by the Ministry of Information.

Although every care has been taken in the production of this magazine and website, no responsibility for errors or liability is assumed through the use of the information contained herein.

Cambodia Insight.com is an independent publication dedicated to providing our readers with informative content presented in a positive light helping to boost business investment, tourism, cultural awareness and the image of the country.

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Siem Reap Riverside Hotel • Comfortable room with Fan & A/C • Cable TV with Satellite programs • Hot & Cold Shower, Clean Water • Full Internet Access, High speed in the room E-mail

• Roof top balcony for relaxing • Currency Exchange and Laundry • Helpful Service • Helpful Food Service • Sun bathing on the roof top

: booking@siemreapriverside.net sales@siemreapriverside.net Facebook: Siem Reap Riverside Website : www.siemreapriverside.net Address : #481, Sivatha Blvd, Svay Dangkom District, SiemReap Cambodia

Mobile: Tel: Fax:

+855 (0) 12 517 000 +855 (0) 63 760 177 +855 (0) 63 760 277

Old Market area, Alongside of the river.

Cambodia: No longer a one - Temple Pony With great beaches, a thriving arts scene and a world - class resort on the horizon, Cambodia is finally coming out of the Angkor Wat shadow

1. Art eruption in Siem Reap Siem Reap is Cambodia’s tourism king, but it is keen to diversify.

Within the last few years, the town that lodges and feeds Angkor’s annual visitors has embraced its creative side and evolved into a chic, edgy town inhabited by avant - garde artists and designers.

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The city’s creative hub, West Alley, is now a destination in itself. Filipino Loven Ramos is one of those at the center of the creative cusp that has produced some of the best contemporary art in the country.

Also on CNNGo: 10 Cambodian dishes you’ve got to try 1961, his boutique - style artsy getaway is still free from hordes of tourists.

The hotel pays homage to the 1960s - a period of great creativity and expression in Cambodia - through its eight guest galleries’(art spaces turned rooms, or rooms cum art spaces).

His monthly flea market at his boutique hotel (1961, the River Road, +855 6396 6961, www. the1961.com) is the place to be on the last Sunday of every month as people come in droves to dumpster dive for treasures.

From hand - printed bedding to walls riddled with literary musings, each room is dedicated to a person, family or concept that helped shape the 1960s in both Cambodia and the wider world.

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2. Phnom Penh turns chic Formerly called the Pearl of Asia, Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh is a little bit ugly, a little bit beautiful. But big things are happening to this small city.

While it’s no Bangkok, in the last year Mango opened up a shop on Sihanouk Boulevard (that was big news) and the country’s first Westernstyle cinema opened up (even bigger news).

From October 27 to November 5, Phnom Penh will host the first Cambodia Fashion Week, an event the organizers (www.cambodiafashioncouncil.org) optimistically hope will put the country on the world map as a credible fashion hub of the East.

And the city’s riverside area got a little more cosmopolitan cool with the opening of Rahu (159, Sisovath Quay, +855 2321 5179), a hip restaurant-bar attracting a Cambodian nouveau riche and expatriate crowd. They dine on sushi and US$5 cocktails, choose from 16 different martinis and a menu split into small and large plates.

It all gives Phnom Penh an ambitiously chic edge.

3. Adventure tours gather pace Let’s face it. Well - trodden trails are boring.

Everyone wants to do something different, to be the first to explore new areas.

Cambodia can accommodate.

Whether it’s flying over the temples of Angkor in a helicopter, trekking in the Cardamon Mountains, taking an elephant ride in Mondulkiri Province, witnessing rare and endemic Irrawady dolphins on the Mekong Discovery Trail, kayaking through mangrove waterways at Four Rivers Floating Lodge ( +855 97643 4032) or staying in community based eco - tourism sites in Koh Kong (www. wildlifealliance.org/ecotourism), there are some pretty adventurous ways to spend your dollars in the Kingdom.

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Quad Adventure Cambodia (Near Old Market; +855 1778 4727/+855 9278 7216; www.quadadventure-cambodia.com) is one company that promises customers will leave them muddy, dusty and happy (and perhaps a little bruised).

Navigating the countryside on all-terrain quad

bikes is a fun way to experience Cambodia’s countryside.

But be quick to get on this unusual rural adventure before it becomes something everyone does.

4. The beach secret’s out Cambodia’s islands have always rivaled those found in Thailand but somehow few people noticed.

Not any more. The islands that dot Cambodia’s south coast are now being developed and marketed, and the three key beach communities - Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong - are home to the full array of accommodations, from budget hostels to five-star resorts.

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Sihanoukville is regarded as the best, with six beaches stretching along the coast. Kep is less developed than Sihanoukville, despite being Cambodia’s first recognized beach destination, and Koh Kong is popular with divers and eco tourists.

Best of all though are the beaches found on the islands out in the Gulf of Thailand - a match for anything on Thailand, and less crowded.

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5. Cambodia gets the luxury resort treatment Most exciting for anyone with a bit of spare cash – two of the islands off the south coast in the Gulf of Thailand are set to become home to one of the world’s most exclusive resorts.

At US$700 per person per night in low season, a figure that peaks at US$1,300 per person per night during high season (not including taxes and extras), Song Saa luxury resort (www. songsaa.com, +855 2368 60360), is aiming to become the Burj al Arab of Cambodia.

Kingdom, but also one of the next must - visit high - end luxury island retreats in the world.

It’s 30 minutes from the international airport at Sihanoukville yet promises a foray into southeast Asia’s natural world.

The islands are surrounded by coral reefs, home to seahorses, tropical fish and even dugongs. You may share your breakfast with hornbills. Sustainability has been a key factor in its construction.

This exclusive getaway for wealthy castaways is tipped to be not only the next big thing in

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By Charlie Lancaster (www.cnngo.com)

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10 - step guide to Siem Reap

Angkor Wat is great, but there’s so much more to Siem Reap. Take off those temple - tinted specs.

You can’t visit Siem Reap and not see Angkor Wat. But nor should you neglect the other parts of town, which do so much to add to the charm and allure of this historical area.

From jungle adventures to vibrant culture to legendary nightlife, here are 10 of Siem Reap’s essential experiences, besides the famous temple.

1. Visit the Angkor temples

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The temples are what everyone’s here for, and Angkor doesn’t disappoint. Whether you’re a hardcore shutterbug or just want to see the temples at their best, a photography tour will make sure you don’t miss the hidden highlights.

Or, if you don’t mind sweating, rent a White Bicycle at any of the stands in town (your US$2 daily rental fee helps support local NGOs) and spend the day seeing the main temple circuit Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm - at your own pace.

The best time for photos is sunrise - go in April to see the sun crest the horizon immediately behind the main shrine’s dome and to maximize your chances of a haze-free day.

Either option gives you plenty of time to see the big three, any smaller temples that catch your eye, and still make it to Phnom Bakeng for the best sunset views.

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Go early to snag a spot, and be sure to make it up before access to the temple - top viewing area closes at 5:30 p.m. Grab a pâté sandwich from any of the roadside vendors and picnic while you wait for the evening show.

Peace of Angkor Tours; +855 63 760 475; info@ peaceofangkor.com; www.peaceofangkor.com White Bicycles; +855 92 332 730; www.thewhitebicycles.org

2. Visit the other temples Siem Reap has more than just Angkor Wat when it comes to temples. If you fancy yourself as a Cambodian Indiana Jones, visit Beng Mealea, where you can see what the temples would look like if left to nature.

Full-day tours typically combine with a trip to Koh Ker, an ancient capital city, or stop at Banteay Srey 2, a rarely visited temple and working monastery where you can hear monks chanting.

If you’re after a taste of the “real” Cambodia, sign up for a tour of the Tonle Sap fishing villages, where you can see traditional stilt architecture, floating rice paddies and talk to local fishermen who might invite you home for a very freshly caught lunch.

It’s worth the extra time to venture farther afield - the nearest village, Chong Khneas, is swamped with tourists and feels like a human

zoo. To make it a full day, choose a tour that also visits the bird sanctuary or any of several nearby NGO projects.

Beyond Unique Escapes (+855 77 562 565; info@beyonduniqueescapes.com; www.beyonduniqueescapes.com) offers tours of the main temples, remote temples, Tonle Sap Lake and more.

Osmose Tours (+855 12 832 812; comms@osmosetonlesap.net; www.tonlesap.net) organizes tours of Tonle Sap Lake villages, the Prek Toal bird sanctuary and local NGO projects.

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3. Hire a tuk - tuk tour guide Even tuk-tuk fans will quickly understand why every market stall offers T-shirts emblazoned with: “No tuk-tuk. Not today. Not tomorrow,” but don’t let the aggressive hawkers intimidate you into missing out on a quintessentially Cambodian ride.

Tuk-tuks are the local taxis, and the easiest way to get around Siem Reap. You can get anywhere in the main city for US$2, while good negotiators should be able to talk drivers down to a dollar. Tip the driver well and you’ll have a friend for life, plus an eager tour guide who will show you the best of Siem Reap. Bonus

4. Eat bugs at the Old Market At Phsar Chas, the Old Market, you can get a feel for a real Cambodian market.

Baskets of spices, multicolored arrays of fresh produce, crispy fried tarantulas and meats from octopus to chicken feet create a bizarre foodie circus.

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points if you can find the “VIP Batman” tuk-tuk.

Tuk-tuk tour guides: Angkor Wat Tuk Tuk Tours: 855 92 465-282, mjangkordriver@gmail.com, angkorwattuktuk.com Siem Reap Tuk Tuk Driver: 855 17 839-140, measphala@gmail.com, siemreaptuktuks.com Both offer tours of Angkor’s small circuit temples for US$15 but can arrange tours anywhere in the area.

Within the city: You can find a tuk-tuk for quick trips in Siem Reap anywhere. Be sure to negotiate a price up front, most trips within the city are US$1-3.

If you’re looking for something a little tamer, there are hawkers selling fried banana kebabs, roasted corn on the cob, or banana-chocolate pancakes (the vendor at the corner closest to Warehouse has a loyal following).

If you’re too busy temple-touring during the day, you can still get the market experience at the Angkor Night Market.

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Old Market Area; 5 a.m. – 6 p.m. for most vendors, between Street 9, Street 11, 2 Thmou St. and Pokombor Avenue Angkor Night Market; 4 p.m.–12 a.m.; Old Market Area; 855 92 654 315; info@angkornightmarket.com

5. Get a fishy foot massage After a long day of temple-trekking, give your worn-out feet a little TLC to prepare for the next day’s adventures.

Spas offering reflexology, massages and more can be found at any hotel,but the independent Frangipani also gets consistently high marks and Spa Indochine’s traditional treatments are freshly prepared with local ingredients each day.

If you’re not looking to splurge, the area around Pub Street is lined with dozens of shops. A half-hour reflexology treatment runs about US$5, or try a “fish massage” -- tiny fish will nibble dead skin from your toes. The going rate is US$1 for 15 minutes or US$3 for 20 minutes and a can of Angkor.

Frangipani Spa; +855 12 9820 062; info@frangipanisiemreap.com Spa Indochine (Hotel de la Paix); +855 63 966 000; www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com

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6. People-watch on Pub Street Pub Street is Siem Reap’s party hub, so grab a drink (or a scoop of Siem Reap’s best ice cream at Blue Pumpkin) and soak it all up.

Start your evening at Red Piano, on the corner.

The French cuisine is good, but it’s best known as Angelina Jolie’s haunt while filming “Tomb Raider.”

Try her favorite cocktail - Cointreau, lime and tonic - now named for the movie, and if you’re the lucky 10th buyer, it’s on the house.

Continue down the road to find a spot for dinner. All the restaurants offer reasonably priced Western and local food, but Soup Dragon’s eponymous fare always brings a crowd, and just two doors down is “Angkor What?” bar.

Inscriptions on the walls and tables attest to this old favorite’s popularity, and it’s always one of the last to close.

If you’re not quite digging the backpacker vibe, duck down a small side street in search of Miss Wong, a classy cocktail bar that will transport you back to 1930s Shanghai and a good refuge from the madness one street over.

Angkor What?: Pub Street, Siem Reap; +855 12 490 755, Blue Pumpkin: 563 Mondol 1, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 574; www.tbpumpkin.com Miss Wong: The Lane, Siem Reap; +855 92 428 332, Red Piano: 341 Mondol 1, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 240; www.redpianocambodia.com, redpianocambodia@online.com.kh Soup Dragon 2 Thnou St.; +855 63 964 933

7. Watch a traditional Apsara dance If your taste in nightlife is a little more highbrow than Pub Street’s manic antics, get a look at more traditional Cambodian culture with a Khmer dance show named for the “heavenly dancers” adorning the Angkor temples.

Most tourists opt for a dinner and performance combo offered at any of a number of local hotels and restaurants, but get a recommendation as cost and quality vary widely.

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Apsara Terrace at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor is known for its impressive classical dance and martial arts performances and delectable barbecue buffet on Monday/Wednesday/ Friday , but be prepared for fine dining prices.

Angkor Village Hotel’s Apsara Theater offers a more reasonable dinner show every day at 8 p.m., but it’s relatively pricey with average sights and tastes.

Apsara Theater, Angkor Village Hotel; Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 531; www.angkorvillage.com/theater Temple Balcony; On Pub Street, Siem Reap; +855 12 234 565 / 730 930 Also on CNNGo: 10 Cambodian dishes you’ve got to try

If you want the culture without blowing your budget, Temple Balcony offers a free Apsara performance. You’ll have to buy a mediocre dinner, but sometimes you get what you pay for.

Apsara Terrace, Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor; 1 Vithei Charles De Gaulle Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 888; dining. grandhotel@raffles.com

8. Give back Responsible tourism is a Siem Reap buzzword, and the many NGOs who have set up shop make getting involved easy.

Get in touch with the folks at ConCERT Cambodia, who can connect you with any of Siem Reap’s organizations and help you choose an activity that fits with your interests and schedule.

Even if you don’t volunteer, don’t miss out on the easiest (and tastiest) way to support local kids: dinner at one of Siem Reap’s teaching restaurants. Your taste buds will thank you, too - the food is some of the best authentic Khmer you’ll find.

Green Star’s fried corn is legendary, and Sala Bai and Jardin des Delices get standout reviews as well.

ConCERT Cambodia; +855 63 963-511; info@ concertcambodia.org; www.concertcambodia. org, Green Star; South end of Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap; +855 92 255 241; www.greenstarrestaurant.org

Le Jardin des Délices; Ecole Paul Dubrule, Airport Road, Siem Reap; +855 63 963-673; info@ecolepauldubrule.org; www.ecolepauldubrule.org.

Reservations recommended, Sala Bai; 155 Phum Tapoul, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 329; www.salabai.com

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9. Take on a Khmer cooking class If you’re hooked on Cambodia’s delicious curries, take in a traditional cooking class and you’ll be able to satisfy your cravings after leaving Siem Reap.

Khmer chef instructors will guide you through local markets and identify all the mysterious ingredients you’ll need to create your culinary masterpiece. Then don your apron and chef’s hat and prepare two dishes of your choice at Le Tigre de Papier.

The fish amok, Cambodia’s national dish, is a must try, as are the green mango salad and fresh spring rolls - plus a sticky rice dessert.

You can buy a cookbook whose proceeds support a local NGO. Cooks ‘N Tuk Tuks; 113 Mondul 111 Phoum Treang, Siem Reap; +855 63 963 400; info@ therivergarden.info;www.therivergarden.info Le Tigre de Papier; On Pub Street, Siem Reap; +855 12 265 811; info@letigredepapiere. com;www.letigredepapier.com

10. Find the perfect souvenir Clearly, some of the souvenirs on sale are tacky and irrelevant. But in a country admired for its traditional handicrafts it’s definitely worth a splurge (by Cambodian standards, anyway) on a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

Angkor Making Shoes will craft bespoke kicks for just US$12, with a swift turnaround time to suit travelers’ schedules. Looking for silks? Try Samatoa, offering customized silk clothes in under 24 hours with free delivery to your hotel.

If you’re short on time, head to Artisans d’Angkor. Prices are higher than you’d find elsewhere, but so is the quality, whether you’re after classic Cambodian checkered scarves, luxurious silk and sculptures, or premixed spice packets to help you bring the flavors of Cambodia black home.

Samatoa; Old Market area, opposite hospital; +855 63 965 310; www.samatoa.com Artisans d’Angkor, Stung Thmey Street; +855 63 963 330; infos@artisansdangkor.com; www. artisansdangkor.com

By Lauren Zumbach (www.cnngo.com)

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Cambodia’s 10 greatest street foods

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ambodians like to snack throughout the day, so it’s no surprise their capitol is teeming with street - food choices.

Depending on what time it is, you’ll find scores of different types of street cuisine being sold by roving vendors or at stationary street stalls that cook on small charcoal grills.

The local markets are also a good source of Khmer snacks, particularly Central, Kandal and Orussei, as well as the streets around the city’s many schools and universities.

Breakfast time and early evenings are particularly busy, as hungry students flood the streets, looking for fried noodles, Cambodian sandwiches and sweet treats.

1. Num pang Baguettes are a lasting legacy of the French colonization of Cambodia - as in Vietnam, they are used for street-side sandwiches that are filled with a mixture of Eastern and Western ingredients.

In Phnom Penh the sandwiches are filled with pate, butter or homemade mayonnaise, spicy red chili paste, crunchy pickled green papaya and carrot and a type of pork bologna and served with soy sauce and fish sauce on the side.

Try it at : Outside Kandal Market, Street 5, Phnom Penh 24

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2. Nom banh chok This popular breakfast food is often called the Cambodian national dish. It’s usually sold by women carrying the ingredients in baskets hanging from a pole balanced on their shoulders.

The noodles are made from fermented rice and topped with aromatic green fish curry gravy, flavored with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and turmeric root. Fresh herbs, bean sprouts, banana flower and cucumber are added for a pleasant, refreshing crunch.

Try it at : Russian Market, Street 440, Phnom Penh

3. Num plae ai These yummy small, round rice dumplings are filled with liquid caramelized palm sugar and topped with fresh coconut shavings.

They’re sometimes called nom somlap pdey, or “dessert that kills your husband,” because the smooth, chewy texture makes num plae ai easy to choke on if you eat them too fast!

Try it at: Top of street 258 and Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh

4. Bai sach chrouk Bai sach chrouk, or grilled pork with rice, is a simple and delicious breakfast food sold by numerous Phnom Penh street vendors, who usually sell out by 8:30 every morning.

Thinly sliced pork that’s been marinated in coconut milk or garlic is grilled slowly over warm coals. It’s served over steamed rice, sometimes with a fried egg, a side of freshly pickled daikon radish and cucumber, and a dab of spicy chili paste.

Try it at: Kandal Market, Street 5, Phnom Penh

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5. Coconut water Vendors walk around Phnom Penh with carts piled high with young, green coconuts. They slice the tops off to order so customers can drink the coconut water with a straw.

Cambodians believe that coconut water is extremely healthy, and many locals try to drink a coconut every day. Once you’re finished, you can ask the vendor to slice the coconut open so you can access the flesh inside.

Try it at: Sihanouk Boulevard and Street 51, Phnom Penh

6. Fresh fruit One of the simplest but most delicious street foods that Phnom Penh has to offer is fresh ripe fruit. Ambulatory vendors sell juicy pineapple, papaya, dragonfruit, watermelon, guava and green mango out of glass cases.

When you order, they’ll offer to cut the fruit into bite-sized pieces, which are eaten with a wooden skewer, and sprinkle it with entirely unnecessary MSG, sugar and chili.

Try it at: Top of street 258 and Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh

7. Mi char Fried noodles are popular with students looking for an afternoon snack once school lets out. Most noodle sellers carry a few options in their cart - instant noodles from ramen packages, soft yellow egg noodles, or short, thick rice noodles.

They’re stir - fried in fish sauce and soy sauce with beef and greens, and usually a fried egg is added to the equation. Most Cambodians choose to eat mi char with mild, sweet chili sauce.

Try it at: Central Market, Street 53, Phnom Penh 26

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8. Kuy teav You’ll find similar noodle soups in Vietnam and Thailand, but kuy teav is believed to have originated with Chinese immigrants in Cambodia. Whatever its origins, the soup is a hearty breakfast made with pork or beef broth and thin rice noodles, and topped with fried shallots, green onions and crunchy bean sprouts. Sometimes the soup will also contain prawns, beef balls or pork liver and is served with red chili sauce with vinegar and sugar.

Try it at: Across from Pencil, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh

9. Ngeav chamhoy Cockles steamed with chilies, fragrant lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal are an enticing late - night snack sold street - side and by roving vendors pushing carts with portable steamers.

Ngeav is the Khmer word for a type of native clam known as the blood cockle due to its red color, caused by hemoglobin similar to that in human blood. Ngeav chamhoy taste best accompanied by a spicy chili sauce and washed down with a cold beer.

Try it at: Street 13, Phnom Penh

10. Num sang khya l’peou This treat is as tasty as it is impressive. A pumpkin’s seeds are removed and then it’s filled with egg yolks, palm sugar and coconut milk. The top is put back on and the whole thing is steamed for half an hour.

When it’s done, it’s sliced to best show off the contrasting orange pumpkin flesh filled with smooth, creamy custard.

Try it at: Orussei Market, Street 182, Phnom Penh By: Lina Goldberg (www.cnngo.com) JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

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Teuk Chhou Zoo – A Story, A Vision

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ituated between the mighty Bokor Mountain range and the deep green waters of the Prek Kampot River, Teuk Chhou occupies an enviable site for a zoo, with a view out across the sugar palms of Kampot Province.

Home to over 40 different species of cat, primate, bird and reptile, Teuk Chhou is, in its own way, an ark for Cambodian wildlife. This is most true in the case of the zoo’s Indochinese tiger, an animal now thought to be gone from the jungles of Cambodia.

For all this Teuk Chhou’s recently history has been painful, a story of progressive decay and neglect. This reached a climax in March 2011 when a reputable daily newspaper published an article under the banner headline ‘The zoo of horrors’.

Stung into action by the paper’s story Rory and Melita Hunter, long time resident’s of Cambodia, drew on their own resources to

secure the immediate salvation of the zoo’s animals, covering the costs of their food and care.

This was never going to be sustainable in the long term, however, and the Footprints Organization has been formed to carry Teuk Chhou forward toward something better: its transformation into a dedicated wildlife education park.

So why do this? Behind our thinking is the appreciation that Teuk Chhou offers an opportunity to link Cambodian’s to their native wildlife, nurturing an understanding that they are part of a unique and special environment - a wonder every bit as special as the temples of Angkor.

In this role Teuk Chhou can be a force of benefit for conservation, connecting people, including those from urban areas, to the beauty of Cambodia’s natural world.

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In the coming editions we will provide further details of how we plan to achieve this vision.

As noted above, our web - site (http://teukchhou.com/) and Face Book (http://www.facebook.com/teukchhou) pages are the best ways to keep track of these developments.

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Teuk Chhou Spotlight Indochinese Leopard

T

he leopard is the smallest of the four ‘big cats’, which also includes tiger, lion and the jaguar. Although smaller than its counter - parts, the leopard is distinguished by its adaptability and its wide geographic distribution (fossil remains of leopard have been found in the UK).

Teuk Chhou’s resident leopard – Reap – is of the Indochinese sub-species, which is found in sparse numbers across the forested portions of mainland Southeast Asia.

Compared to other large cats the leopard has shorter legs and a long body, with a comparatively large skull. Its skull size allows the leopard to take prey considerably larger than itself. This feature, which is accentuated by powerful jaw muscles, also allows the leopard to climb high into trees with its kill.

Leopards are agile and powerful swimmers and can run at speeds of 58 kilometers per hour. They can also leap to a height of 3 metres and distances of up to 6 metres (so watch-out if you get caught alone with a leopard!).

Anyone who has encountered Reap can appreciate what a special and unique animal she is. Playful on occasion, dismissive and indifferent at other times; she is one cat with an attitude! As a species in serious jeopardy, Footprints would like to redevelop the current cage to a size allowing the introduction of a male leopard for breeding purposes.

This will not be cheap, however the payback would be a regular supply of leopard offspring, which could be reintroduced into the wild. Now there is a conservation outcome worth supporting! Annual food and care costs, meanwhile, are $3000 (being a meat eater, she is not a cheap cat to feed). If you would like to support Reap, please visit our web site for details or contact our Director at footprintstc@ gmail.com .

Did you know? : A leopard’s tawny coat is covered with dark, irregular circles called “rosettes.”

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

By : Dr. Wayne McCallum Footprint Organization

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In Cambodia, a Start - Up Combines Web Sales Skills and Hair Extensions

P

HNOM PENH, Cambodia - For an Internet start - up, Arjuni faces more challenges than usual. The - commerce site that sells hair extensions operates out of a five - story building here that lacks elevators and, sometimes, power.

Employees typically have to travel to remote villages by motorbike or foot to pick up the goods that Arjuni sells. And the office floor is cluttered with piles of hair strands instead of computers.

But like many new ventures, Arjuni is harnessing the latest Internet tools like Twitter and social media to build a loyal customer base.

In just two years, the company, founded by Janice Wilson, has grown from a handful of employees to 80, and it now generates more than $1 million in revenue.

The start-up is also slowly gaining market share from the industry’s dominant players in India and China, as well as retailers in the United States and Europe.

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“We not only buy and collect the hair ourselves, but sell it directly to our customers. This makes us stand out,” Ms. Wilson said. “We’re small, but considered one of the top brands.”

While hair extensions have been around for decades, they became a fashion craze in recent years, when stars like Paris Hilton and Britney Spears started using them to change their looks.

A large proportion of Arjuni customers, like Ms. Wilson, are African-Americans seeking fuller styles for their tresses.

India has long provided much of the world’s natural hair, sold to wholesalers mainly in China, which in turn marketed their products to retailers in Europe and the United States.

But Ms. Wilson found that Cambodians have similar hair quality, long with cuticles in alignment.

“Probably 99 percent of the world’s hair comes from India. Nobody had thought of Cambodia,” said Ms. Wilson, 39, straddling piles of hair on the floor.

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

It is a small but potentially profitable niche.

The hair extensions business generates annual revenue of $250 million.

Ms. Wilson said it was important to her to have a business serving a social purpose. Many of Arjuni’s employees formerly worked in Cambodia’s notorious sex trade.

That effort helped attract seed capital from a Japanese investment fund, Arun, formed in 2009 by Satoko Kono to help social enterprises in emerging nations. “We like how Arjuni is employing women, and helping the needy,” said Ms. Kono, who spent a decade with development organizations in Cambodia.

ness by making customers feel engaged in the product via the Internet.

Customers eagerly describe their orders on home videos that they upload on You Tube, with segments on topics like hair design, delivery and grooming.

Clients are encouraged to send in pictures of starlets they want to emulate, like Catherine Zeta - Jones or Beyoncé. Arjuni also floods Facebook with testimonials and promotions.

Additional money came from the Cambodian Export Market Access Fund, which is a World Bank - financed project that helps companies trying to develop exports. The rest came from her savings, friends and family. A lawyer by training, Ms. Wilson has built her busi-

“Our clients are fanatical about hair,” said Tiyana Peters, who oversees social media for Arjuni.

“We get everything from wedding photos afterward to details on how the boyfriends react.”

By dealing direct with customers, Arjuni eliminates the added cost of working through another retailer or site. Extensions can cost thousands of dollars, but typically average around $500.

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The Internet has helped with damage control, as well. After rumors spread online that Arjuni was stealing hair or forcing women to sell it, the company began regularly posting more information on its operations on networking sites.

“This was totally untrue. We buy the hair at fair prices, and tried to explain it, but there isn’t much you can do,” Ms. Wilson said. “Our company grew up in the age of social media,” she said. “Social media is huge, and has helped us, but these accusations really stung.”

Her idea for the start-up was an evolution of sorts. Ms. Wilson, originally from Green Bay, Wis., was on vacation in Cambodia four years ago, she began thinking about opportunities to start a business here.

Cambodia was in the midst of an economic boom and had the fastest-growing economy in Asia, after China, for several years running.

One of the hottest sectors was real estate.

Ms. Wilson, who was working for a real estate firm in Colorado, decided to move to Cambodia, and with local partners, planned a development near the temples of Angkor, the country’s top tourist attraction.

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“I was thinking, what is recession - proof?” Ms. Wilson recalled. The answer: “vanity.”

The best - and most expensive - hair extensions are made from natural human hair, which is cut, cleaned and sewn into individual pieces.

“It was low - tech, they just needed to learn how to make them, and we just needed sewing machines. We could use the skills already here,” she said.

The business was also a way to help workers develop marketable skills. Ms. Wilson now provides employees with free English, computer and math classes.

A third of workers come from troubled situations like sex trafficking or spousal abuse. “But we run everything as a business,” Ms. Wilson said.

Ms. Wilson acknowledged that she and her staff members were extremely ambitious at the outset, “trying to do everything at once collection, fabrication and distribution.”

But they have been able to keep up the frenzied pace as the company grew.

“It’s definitely been difficult to scale up,” Ms. Wilson said. “But it does make us better quality.”

When Cambodia’s property market suffered along with the global economy, she faced a grim challenge. “I either had to give up and go back to America, or find something else to do,” she recalled.

This spring, Arjuni added yet another facet to its operation - a series of in-person events in the United States called Halo, where her staff could meet and help groom customers.

The collapse of Cambodia’s textile industry largely as a result of cheap competition from China led to her idea.

“Do I feel I have aged a lot? Definitely,” Ms. Wilson said. “But I love being an entrepreneur.

I love the challenges.”

Cambodian workers with sewing skills were suddenly unemployed, and nobody had looked at Cambodian hair as a marketable material before.

“When I worked in a law office, I was bored out of my mind,” she added. “When you have this entrepreneurial spirit, you just have to do it.”

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

BY : RON GLUCKMAN (http://dealbook.nytimes.com)

LET’S START OUR TRAVEL TO

CAMBODIA

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

33

Should Cambodian ‘blood antiquities’ be returned?

• Writers: Met and Sotheby’s have ancient figures thought to have been looted in Cambodia • U.S. authorities have attempted to seize Sotheby’s figures; now Cambodia seeking those at Met • Vlasic, Davis say some in art world act the victim because Cambodia wants its art back • Writers: Why would anyone want stolen art?

Both sides must make reasonable concessions Editor’s note: Mark V. Vlasic, a senior fellow and adjunct professor of law at Georgetown University, served as the first head of operations of the joint United Nations - World Bank Stolen Asset Recovery Initiative and leads the international practice at Madison Law & Strategy Group PLLC. Tess Davis is the executive director of the Lawyers’ Committee for Cultural Heritage Preservation and is working with Cambodia to combat the illicit trade in the kingdom’s antiquities.

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The last time most New Yorkers focused on pillaged antiquities from Cambodia was likely after the release of the Angelina Jolie film “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider,” which featured the heroine’s adventures through the country’s famous archaeological wonder, Angkor Wat. Now, real “tomb raiding” is making the news as the Cambodian government seeks to recover antiquities allegedly plundered from the kingdom’s ancient sites during its civil war, ethnic cleansing and foreign occupation.

At Cambodia’s request, the United States recently filed suit in U.S. District Court against Sotheby’s in New York, demanding that the auction house forfeit a sandstone warrior that was “illicitly removed,”according to the complaint, from a remote jungle temple.

But according to a recent New York Times story, Cambodia has now set its sights on another Manhattan institution: the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It has specifically targeted the highlight of its Southeast Asian

JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012

collection: two kneeling figures that archaeologists declare are companions to the contested Sotheby’s piece. If these stones could speak, what a story they would tell. Carved in the 10th century by some of the most skilled artisans known to history, they originally adorned the sanctuary of Prasat Chen, at the temple complex of Koh Ker. Experts believe that with other characters, they formed a three dimensional tableau from the Hindu epic the Mahabharata for a millennium.

They say that came to an end when paramilitary groups trafficked them, sculpture by sculpture, overseas.

What a strange twist of fate: Having traveled halfway around the world, quite possibly through the illicit and licit markets, the three disputed objects are now just miles apart in New York City.

Phnom Penh’s forceful request for their return has alarmed the less scrupulous in the art world, and with good reason: They have a lot to lose if the art is repatriated. American and European galleries, auction houses and museums are allegedly full of Cambodian plunder.

Many of these artifacts were allegedely stolen during the country’s long conflict, making them “blood antiquities,” little different than “blood diamonds” from Sierra Leone and other war-torn African states. The years before, during, and after the Killing Fields decimated the Cambodian population and led to the looting of most of the nation’s archaeological sites.

Yet sadly, now that Cambodia is at peace and in a position to recover its rightful property, some collectors are portraying themselves as the victims. In the wake of the Sotheby’s case, one Asian specialist lamented the “crisis” now facing collectors.

She warned that such legal actions”threaten the very future of collecting and collecting museums” and the “next generation of collectors, donors and patrons.”

Such histrionics aside, it will always be difficult and expensive for countries such as Cambodia to recover their pillaged heritage through the courts, even when in the right.

Especially when its acquisition may have been made possible by tragedies such as the Holocaust, Cambodia’s killing fields or even the more recent looting of the Baghdad Museum during the Iraq war, the real issue is why any collector or museum would want to possess stolen art?

Thankfully, individuals and institutions who would argue to keep looted art are a minority and do as much disservice to their fellows as they do to victims of the illicit art trade. Indeed, many have voluntarily repatriated antiquities to Cambodia, once learning they were wartime plunder. The Met is no exception, having itself returned a valuable piece to the country in 1997 at its own initiative.

There is much common ground between archaeologists, collectors and curators, as all share a love of the past, if not an outright obsession with it. Archaeologists recognize that there will always be, and should be, a legal market for antiquities, just as most collectors and curators agree that the looting of archaeological sites and trafficking of antiquities must be stopped.

Indeed, if there is to be any real progress, both sides of the issue will likley have to make concessions. But as campaigns like Cambodia’s demonstrate, the art world must reconsider what is ethically acceptable.

And today, the sale, purchase and exhibition of “blood antiquities” is not only deplorable, it may actually be criminal. (The sale, possession, and transport of stolen property is illegal under the National Stolen Property Act.) Sotheby’s and the Met have a choice: They can treat Cambodia’s requests as obstacles, or recognize them as the opportunities they are to right past wrongs and set the moral standard for the entire field.

For Cambodia’s sake, as well as their own - and for all of humanity that finds these treasures important - let us hope that they choose wisely.

By: Mark V. Vlasic and Tess Davis, Special to CNN

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Camb dia Insight

Digital Magazine

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CorporateMarketing Integrated Marketing Strategies

Restaurant & Bar

Shopping / Boutique

Tour/Travel Agent

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Jayavarman VII Hospital Borei Speak Neak Inn (Performances by Beatocello) H

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Sofitel Royal Angkor (Couleurs d’Asie Located Inside)

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Tara Angkor Asia Craft Centre(ACC) Online D’mouj

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Lucky Mall (Lucky Supermarket lucky Department, Store, Monument Toys...)

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La Villa Mona d’Angkor Shining Angkor Boutique

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1 km.

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JULY - SEPTEMBER, 2012