Moutai Magazine - International Edition Issue 6 Winter 2014 by MOUTAI Magazine - International Edition

06 WINTER 2014

Borderless Civilization Enjoyments 無國界的文明享受專訪胡一虎：真情方品味無處不禪機 Interview With Tiger Hu : Savoring With True Feeling, Zen Is Everywhere

珍饈 8 味 The 8

對話香港皇冠酒窖創始人 Gregory De'Eb——酒所承載的是故事和思想 Dialogue With CWC Founder Gregory De'Eb——Wine Carries Story and Message

吳松：酒瓶裡的黃金時代 NG Chung: A Golden Era in Liquor Bottle

Dialogue

文明

對話

Civilization

www.moutaichina.com

Liquor: New Feitian 53% Kweichow Moutai Chess / cup: Baccarat

酒：53 度飛天貴州茅台酒 / 國際象棋、酒杯：Baccarat

Purest Mellowness, China Moutai

純凈之醇中國茅台 www.moutaichina.com

CONTRIBUTORS

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588

Yu Yat Yiu A talented well-known music producer. Music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu, Anthony Wong, and a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea".

Consultants : Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Zhao Shuyue

Publisher | Francis Wong Chief Executive Officer | Christine Yin Creative Director | Dora Lu

Managing Editor | Konzen Hou Project Manager | Grace Liu Art Director | Johnny Woo

Senior Project Editor | Laura Su, Cher Chen

Photographers | OldHou&Kangsheng, Han Xingxi Translators | Billy Yung, Grace Liu, Meng Yuan Project PR | Meng Yuan

Dora Lu As a holder of Bachelor's degree in Communication and Master's degree in Fine Arts, and a tenured researcher of the Visual Culture Institute, Dora Lu keeps focusing on traditional arts and Chinese liquor culture, and becomes a creative columnist for various newspapers and magazines.

Marketing Executive | Nikita Wan, Denise Chan Advertising Enquires | Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email | er-hk@everreliable.net

RIGHTS

Moutai Magazine (international edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs. The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher,

Penny Zhou An art and culture aficionado, and the Arts Editor at "HK Magazine", where she also had a film review column. Currently she is a freelance journalist and translator, writing and translating for a number of publications in Hong Kong, China and overseas.

editors or the license holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge,

but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise. Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with

editions published under cooperation or license in two languages. Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Dong Tiezhu Special Thanks :

Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

"Any cultural profile, in different people's eyes, can be a different story." ——Jacob Burckhardt Culture is invisible, but determines the origin and destination of our civilization. This issue of "MOUTAI Magazine" will focus on the spreading of culture and dialogue of civilization, interview with elites from different fields, listen to the emotional journey of a presenter, diplomat, artist, musician, and creator...and feel the vividness and hope of civilizations through a cup of fine liquor and half a cigar at Confucius Institutes around the world, a hotel of Paris, a restaurant of Macau, and a palace of Laos. As culture is flowing with mellowness and fragrance, civilization is borderless.

「任何一個文化的輪廓，在不同的人的眼裏看來都可能是一幅不同的圖景。」 —雅各布·布克哈特文化無形，卻決定了我們的文明從何處來，往哪裏去。本期《MOUTAI Magazine》聚焦文化的傳播與文明的對話，我們探訪不同領域的精英，傾聽男主播、外交官、藝術家、音樂家、創意者的心路歷程；在世界各地的孔子學院、巴黎的酒店、澳門的餐廳、老檛的皇宮，以及一杯美酒與半支雪茄中感知文明的生動和希望。因為文化流淌醇香，文明沒有國界。

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I S S U E

Borderless Civilization Enjoyments 無國界的文明享受

Interview With Tiger Hu Savoring With True Feeling, Zen Is Everywhere 專訪胡一虎：真情方品味無處不禪機

Dialogue: Wine Carries Story and Message 對話 : 酒所承載的是故事和思想

This issue's cover is inspired by artist Ng Chung's "Two Bottles of Moutai". "I love wine, but I love Moutai better because it makes my life fuller and happier." For this simple and profound white glass bottle, the desire of creation came from an unexpected tasting. Moutai's complex and multilayered aroma gave him an unutterable experience. With an artist's intuition, he transformed this experience into a wonderful visual language and presented it on canvas. 本期封面創意來源於藝術家吳松的《二瓶茅台》「我喜歡紅酒，更愛茅台，它讓我的生命更充實，更快感。」面對這個簡潔而厚重的白色玻璃瓶，創作欲望來源於一次意外的試飲，茅台複雜而充滿層次的香味帶給他難以言行的體驗，憑藉藝術家的直覺，他將此轉化為美妙的視覺語言並呈現於畫布。

Ng Chung, "Two Bottles of Moutai", Oil Paintings, 130 x 110, 2014 吳松《二瓶茅台》布面油畫 130×110 2014 年

MOUTAI Magazine

The 8

Exclusive Coverage: Give-and-Take in the Name of Jazz

珍饈 8 味

獨家報道：以爵士樂的名義給予和獲取

CONTENT 目錄 06 Introduction 導語

10 Borderless Civilization Enjoyments 無國界的文明享受 18 Sparks of Peninsula Paris ——Moutai Cocktail Media Tasting Activity 巴黎半島酒店的火花 ——茅台雞尾酒媒體品鑒會

22 Interview With Tiger Hu: Savoring With True Feeling, Zen Is Everywhere 專訪胡一虎：真情方品味無處不禪機 28 Dialogue With CWC Founder Gregory De'Eb ——Wine Carries Story and Message 對話香港皇冠酒窖創始人 Gregory De'Eb ——酒所承載的是故事和思想

34 Seeking Wisdom From Confucius 到中國孔子那尋找智慧 40 The 8 珍饈 8 味

52 Exclusive Coverage ： Give-and-Take in the Name of Jazz 獨家報道：以爵士樂的名義給予和獲取 58 Oriental Fine Liquor, a Superior Choice 東方佳釀卓越之選 62 A Happier Journey Than a King 比國王還幸福的旅程

64 Cheng Jing: Chinese Culture Is Very Beautiful 程靜：中國文化很美 70

Excavating and Sharing ——Interview With Poly's "Chinese and Western Wine Department" 發掘與分享 ——專訪保利香港拍賣「中西名酒珍釀部」

74 Savoring Column: Moutai's Unique Technique Among the World's Fine Spirits 尋味專欄：中外佳釀各異茅台工藝獨芳 76 Drinking Intellectually Column: "Sinology Policeman" Pelliot 文字飲專欄：「漢學警察」伯希和 78 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球

46 Ng Chung: A Golden Era in Liquor Bottle 吳松 : 酒瓶裡的黃金時代

78 Seasonal and Comforting Specialties 秋冬滋補養生菜譜

MOUTAI Magazine

Border less Civilization Enjoyments 無國界的文明享受

PLANNING/ 策劃：Dora Lu, OldHou&Kangsheng PHOTO / 攝：Lydia IMAGE / 圖：東方 IC TRANSLATION / 譯：Grace Liu

Like being chosen by God, many wonderful things are used to demonstrating their prominence only in a particular place. Perhaps, they are not necessities of human life, but they are more than commodities. Without them, life will be very boring. In the Era of Globalization, they use their countries as their surnames and become a cultural symbol that represents the character of a nation. They transcend material. As part of human civilization, they cross borders and are shared by those who pursue a better life.

總有一些美好的事物，像是被上天的選擇，只有在某一個特定地方才能成就其卓越。它們只是眾多商品中的一種，但又不僅僅如此，很難說它們是人類生活的必需品，但你無法想象，沒有它們，生活將會在怎樣的乏味中前行。在全球化的背景下，它們的名字以國家為姓氏，代表著一個民族的性格，成為一種文化象征；它們超越物質，作為人類文明的一部分，跨越國界，被所有追求美好的人所共享。

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Flowing History 流淌的歷史 If counting from the 10th year (A.D. 1745) of Qianlong's reign in the Qing Dynasty, when Moutai applied 100% wheat to produce Baishui Qu (a kind of koji), Moutai has over 200 years of history. If counting from the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, when liquor workshops emerged in Moutai Town according to the related official records, Moutai has over 400 years of history. If counting from 135 BC according to the "Records of the Grand Historian", when Emperor Wu of Han drank the Jujiang liquor (predecessor of Moutai) from the Yelang state in northern Guizhou Province, highly praised it as "mellow and perfect", and the liquor became well-known, Moutai has a long history of over 2,000 years... Moutai's mellowness and aroma come from its unique geographical and ecological environment. Curious people had once taken the soil and brewing materials from Moutai Town to experimentally produce Moutai out of Moutai Town. Their efforts, however, were not rewarded. Perhaps they may also succeed, but God needs to help them duplicate Moutai Town's water, airborne microorganisms, and brewing tradition that has been inherited for thousands of years. 如果從清乾隆 10 年（公元 1745 年）以後，茅台釀酒始用純小麥製作的白水曲算起，距今已有 200 多年歷史；如果從明萬曆年間，茅台鎮有正式記載的釀酒作坊算起，距今已有 400 餘年歷史；如果從司馬遷在《史記》中記載的公元前 135 年，來自黔北古夜郎國的枸醬酒令漢武帝飲後盛讚「甘美之」，並由此名揚天下算起——那麼，茅台的釀酒史已傳承了 2,000 多年…… 茅台酒的醇香來源於獨特的地域生態環境。好奇的人們曾帶走茅台鎮的土壤和釀造原料嘗試異地仿制，但付出的努力並沒有得到回報。也許它們也可以成功，但需要上帝來協助複製這裏的水與空氣裏的微生物，以及綿延千年的釀酒傳統。

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美國作家馬克吐溫（Mark Twain） American writer Mark Twain

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Nature's Gift 自然的禮物 Kennedy could refuse Cuba but could not refuse cigar. Before Columbus discovered America, the Indians in Cuba had already known how to enjoy tobacco in daily life. It is undoubted that the red clay and the tropical climate for growing cigar tobacco are nature's gifts given to Cuba. Cuban cigars are made of five different hand-rolled tobacco leaves. All their raw materials must be originally produced in Cuba. The handmade items always retain human temperature. Like an artwork, it is sparkling and emanating charming smell the moment you light it. The critical raw materials of origin and the unique culture define the elegant temperament of Cuban cigars. "Cigar brings inspiration for writing." Mark Twain talked about his favor upon cigar in his articles from time to time. A high-quality cigar is a temptation and a dream. It endows cigar lovers all over the world with the characters of elegant, gentleman-like, mature, and profound after departing from the port of Havana. 甘迺迪拒絕得了古巴，卻無法拒絕雪茄。在哥倫布發現美洲之前，古巴的印第安人就在與自然的共存中認識了煙草並學會了如何想享用它們。毫無疑問，這是大自然送給古巴的禮物：適合種植雪茄煙葉的紅土和熱帶氣候。它們的原料必需全部產自古巴本土。手工打造的物件，往往會被賦予手的溫度。點燃它的那一刻你會發現，它像藝術品一樣散發出迷人的味道和光暈。挑剔的原料產地以及獨特的文化淵源，註定了古巴雪茄與生俱來的高貴氣質。「雪茄帶來寫作靈感。」馬克·吐溫在一些文章裏不時談到自己對雪茄的喜愛。一支品質上乘的雪茄，是一種誘惑，是一種夢想，它從哈瓦那的港口出發，賦予全世界雪茄客儒雅、紳士、成熟、深沈的特質。

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GP 芝柏表三軸陀飞轮系列 Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon Series

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Art of Time 時間的藝術

With a long history, Swiss watch is the benchmark of watchmaking. It represents human's spiritual realm of pursuing perfection. As the embodiment of time, these watches are also experiencing the test of time. Each well-known brand has experienced two world wars, survived the quartz crisis of the 1970s, and finally walks into the constantly changing electronic age. As a perfect conjunction of different art categories, Swiss watch never stops improving its watchmaking technologies. Inheriting extraordinary skills, watchmakers insist on handmade technique rather than machine. They are demonstrating the unlimited creativity in the art of time. Even during the declining and disappearing period of the watch industry, due to its precision, "Swiss Made" is still the most convincing word that represents time and eternality. 瑞士手表歷史悠久，是制表業的標桿，代表著人類追求極致的精神境界。它們作為時間的化身，也經歷著時間的考驗。每一個耳熟能詳的品牌都經歷過兩次世界大戰，從上世紀 70 年代的石英風暴中頑強地走過，躋身如今瞬息萬變的電子時代。作為與不同藝術門類完美相融的匯合點，瑞士手表從未停止過在鐘表技藝上的不斷精進，傳承非凡技藝的制表大師，用手工抵抗著機械的冰冷，展現出計時藝術無限的創造力。即使是在鐘表落寞期間，甚至被人預言將要消失的時代，「瑞士制造」依然是一個最具信服力的詞匯，它本身就是時間，並以它的準確象征著永恒。

MOUTAI Magazine

Sparks of

Peninsula

From a pot of liquor among the flowers, I drank alone. There was no one with me. Till, raising my cup, I asked the bright moon to bring me my shadow and make us three. Alien land, strange city, encounter, stay... A poem, a barrel of liquor, and an encounter, start this Moutai taste bud journey across mountains, rivers, and oceans... 花間一壺酒，獨酌無相親。舉杯邀明月，對影成三人。異國，他鄉，遇見，駐留。一首詩，一斛酒，一場邂逅，開啟了這一次屬於茅台的跨越山河海洋的味蕾之旅……

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巴黎

半島酒店的火花 —茅台雞尾酒媒體品鑒會 TEXT/ 文：Bi Luxin IMAGE/ 圖：Cammy France / Kweichow Moutai TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

——Moutai Cocktail Media Tasting Activity

n China, when mentioning Kweichow Moutai, everyone is quite familiar with this national liquor and national quintessence. On various occasions, as long as there is China Moutai, there will be a feast of savoring fine liquor. On October 23, 2014, in the Moutai cocktail media tasting activity held at Peninsula Paris, Moutai once again brought such an atmosphere to Paris, the capital of flower. Perfectly situated at 19, avenue Kléber in the heart of Paris, just steps from Paris' most famous monument the Arc de Triomphe, the Peninsula, a six-star flagship hotel of the Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels Group, is a late 19th century classic Haussmanian building. Originally serving as the international conference center of the French Foreign Ministry, this building has been meticulously restored and discreetly modernized for four years into another sixstar Asian-styled hotel in Paris. Opened in August this year, the hotel is a perfect blend of Eastern and Western cultures. Between the hotel and Moutai, a quintessence for promoting Chinese culture, what kind of spark can be produced? The representatives attending this tasting activity mainly came from the influential media of the French spirits industry such as Le Figaro, l'Express, and Le Point as well as the famous Chinese media such as China News Agency, People's Daily, Xinhua News Agency, and Phoenix Satellite TV. In a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere, manager of Moutai France invited all guests to taste two choice Moutai cocktails, and introduced the culture, history, brewing characteristics, and

production processes of Moutai as well as the features of the Moutai cocktail. Unfamiliar and puzzled to Moutai at the beginning, representatives of the French professional tasting media gradually knew and appreciated Moutai. Many of them expressed their great interest in the future development of Moutai in France and indicated that they would continue to focus on the future trends of Moutai. This activity also specially presented the "Rose d'Occident" cocktail. With sweet cucumber pieces, this fresh and elegant Moutai cocktail was personally designed by the chief sommelier of the Peninsula. Professionally paired by the sommelier, a little cucumber juice was integrated with the Moutai liquor and its unique aroma to lighten Moutai's strong taste and retain Moutai's original Jiang fragrance in the "Rose d'Occident". Accompanied by Paris' elegant moonlight, leaning against the window sill with breeze, have a glass of Moutai cocktail to slowly get the lips burning. This is the most relaxed enjoyment after a busy day of work or study. As good time was always short, this cocktail media tasting activity ended successfully at 6 pm that day. This activity was a good opportunity for the Frenchmen well versed in fine spirits to better understand Moutai and was a successful step towards the world for Moutai. It is believed that in the near future, more and more people around the world will savor the wonderful taste and distinctive mellowness of this classical fine liquor from the Orient.

MOUTAI Magazine

在中國，提起貴州茅台，大家已經是再

D’OCCIDENT，可以在酒裏找到清甜的黃瓜

出席這次品鑒會的媒體代表，主要來

碎。在調酒師專業的配比下，少許的黃瓜汁伴

要有國酒茅台，都將是一場品味好酒的盛宴。

自法國著名酒業類媒體評論，如 FIGARO、

隨著帶有獨特香氣的茅台酒，讓茅台的濃烈在

2014 年 10 月 23 日，在巴黎半島酒店舉行的

L ’EXPRESS、LE POINT 等，同時還有中新社、

ROSE D’OCCIDENT 中略顯清香與淡雅又不

茅台雞尾酒媒體品鑒會上，茅台再一次把這樣

人民日報、新華社、鳳凰衛視等主要中方媒體。

失其原本醬香的特色。伴著巴黎優雅的月色，

的氛圍帶到了花都巴黎。

在輕松舒適的環境下，茅台法國總部的負責人

倚著微風拂過的窗台，來一杯茅台雞尾酒，讓

香港上海大酒店集團的六星級旗艦酒店

邀請大家品嘗兩款精選的茅台雞尾酒，並向他

嘴唇慢慢的燃燒起來，是忙碌了一天的工作或

——半島酒店，位於巴黎市中心的克勒貝爾大

們介紹中國國酒茅台的文化歷史，茅台的釀造

者學習之後最放松的享受。

街 19 號 (Avenue Kléber)，是一座 19 世紀末

特點，制作工序，以及茅台雞尾酒的特色。到

美好的時光總是短暫，本次雞尾酒媒體品

奧斯曼風格酒店建築，與巴黎著名古跡建築凱

場的各位法國專業品酒媒體代表從一開始對茅

鑒會在當天下午六點圓滿結束。這一場品鑒會

旋門毗鄰。大樓原屬於法國外交部的國際會議

台的陌生與疑問，慢慢懂得并贊賞，紛紛表示

的順利舉辦，讓深諳美酒之道的法國人更為深

中心，經過四年的翻新和整修，酒店於今年八

對茅台在法國未來的發展充滿興趣，會繼續關

入的瞭解了茅台，也為貴州茅台在世界的駐足

月開業，是在巴黎的又一家具有亞洲特色的六

註茅台今後的動向。

邁出了成功的一步，相信在不久的將來，這款

星級酒店，同時與西方文化完美的融合與接洽。而茅台作為弘揚中國文化的國粹，與半島酒店

又會擦出怎樣的火花呢？

熟悉不過——國酒、國粹。無論各種場合，只

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這次還重點推出了由半島酒店首席調酒師親自設計的一款清爽淡雅的 ROSE

來自東方的經典佳釀，將讓更多的人體會到美好的滋味，感受不一樣的美酒醇香。

â&#x20AC;&#x192; A little cucumber juice was integrated with the Moutai liquor and its unique aroma to lighten Moutai's strong taste and retain Moutai's original Jiang fragrance in the "Rose d'Occident".â&#x20AC;&#x192;

MOUTAI Magazine

Interview With Tiger Hu:

Savoring With True Feeling Zen Is

Everywhere 專訪胡一虎：真情方品味無處不禪機 TEXT/ 文：盧川 Dora Lu PHOTO/ 攝：Han Xingxi VISUAL GUIDE/ 視覺指導：OldHou&Kangsheng OVERALL PLANNING/ 統籌：Meng Yuan INTERVIEW ASSISTANT/ 采訪助理：Laura Su, Denise Chan INTERVIEW LOCATION/ 采訪地點：Sha Tin 18 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

"My family has a very sacred liquor cabinet that stores the cherished Moutai liquor and medals of my father; his liquors are so precious that we can have small sips only on happy and great occasions." Tiger Hu raises a cup and says, "This is the liquor savoring culture I want to advocate in China. Liquor makes people drunk. It can also make people awake, happy, and allow people to see another side of themselves that they are usually reluctant to admit. Your magazine is re-establishing China's liquor savoring culture, which is why I am willing to be interviewed." 「我家的酒櫃很神聖，裡面放了爸爸珍藏的茅台和勛章，但他的酒是不能輕易喝的，有了喜事、大事的時候才喝，而且只是小口品酌。」胡一虎端起酒杯說，「這是我很想在中國推行的品酒文化，酒讓人醉，也能讓人醒，能夠讓你開心，也讓人看到平時不願意承認的自己。你們的雜誌在重新打造中國的品酒文化，這也是我之所以願意接受采訪的原因。」

MOUTAI Magazine

"Savoring is a preciousness, a feeling, and is completely different from drinking." 品，是一種珍貴，是一種體會，跟喝完全不一樣。

e says that our conversation at the moment is like a fantasy. He would feel more real only when on the plane where there is a certain distance from reality. As one of the most popular TV presenters in a country of 1.3 billion people, he spends half of his time on the plane every week. He is Tiger Hu (Hu Yihu). His personality is like the Chinese definition of tiger: warm, fearless of challenge, and full of strength. Maybe only at an altitude of 10,000 meters can he temporarily exit from the hustle and bustle of the world as well as the fiercely debating crowd, empty himself, and save new energy.

MOUTAI Magazine

Drinking afternoon tea and talking about fine liquor, life, "New Chinese"...with a top presenter of the Chinese community is as if the screen suddenly enlarged. This seems to be a rather unreal thing. In fact, as interviewers, we feel far more pressure than expected because he thinks faster and have better eloquence, profounder insight, and more knowledge than us. Besides, his voice is stentorian, hard-hitting, and full of positive energy. Tiger Hu was born in 1967 in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. His youth ideal was to be a reporter who was able to freely travel around the world while learn new knowledge. After

graduation from university, with the first place in exams, he was admitted to the Taiwan CTS (Chinese Television System), and was selected as one of the "Ten Most Popular Presenters in Taiwan" for five consecutive years as well as the "Sexiest Male Presenter in Taiwan". 13 years ago, he entered Phoenix Satellite TV, a global Chinese language satellite TV channel to anchor programs on news and current affairs of Mainland China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong, narrowing the distance among Chinese around the world. In an afternoon, from liquor savoring to life, from religion to talent, he is good at expressing the genteel written language

"My program is an encounter of opinions. Encounter happens in the current segment and everything appears in the moment of encounter. Drinking with a confidant, a thousand shots are too few. When you meet your confidant, the channel is right. When readers read this story, they are encountering us as well." 「我的節目是觀點的相遇，相遇的當下就是這個片段，所有的東西都在相遇的瞬間出現。酒逢知己千杯少，當你碰到知己的時候，頻道就對了。當讀者看到這篇報道的時候，跟我們也是再次的相遇。」

clearly, fully demonstrating the beauty of Chinese language. During the interview, he is invited to drink a small cup of Feitian Moutai. Surprisingly, he has deep connections with Moutai. When talking about Moutai, he is as if talking about the memories of a teenage and an old friend of his hometown. The agreed interview time is really not enough. Just as his programs, every minute of each program is fully used and filled with contents. The program is so wonderful and fast-paced that its audience can obtain the truth only after carefully considering the enlightenment and inspiration it leaves.

Savoring Because of Preciousness "My true connection with Moutai is derived from my father's collection," Tiger Hu tells us as soon as he sits down. Unexpectedly, the prize in Tiger Hu's youth was Moutai. Whenever he won one of the top places in the school exam or the champion of speech contest, his father would allow him to drink mouthfuls of cherished Moutai. "That's really an unforgettable taste! For me, Moutai is a totem and something that can be enjoyed only after completing an achievement. A small sip can give me more power." His father was once a soldier. Besides Moutai, his father's medals were also stored in the liquor cabinet. Therefore, this cabinet would not be opened on ordinary occasions. In order to take the opportunity to drink Moutai, he often urged his father, "Come on, dad, let's have a heart-to-heart talk." Tiger Hu tells us frankly that he drinks only with sincere, loyal, and intelligent people. He has the "three NOs" principle. First, he does not drink with any one who thinks "no drinking (up), no brother". Growing up in the military dependants' village of Taiwan, he once saw a brother killed by liquor due to such a thought. Second, on social occasions, he just drinks tea but not liquor. Third, he does not drink before driving. While yearning

for the carefree lifestyle of the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (a group of Chinese scholars, writers, and musicians in ancient China who often drank together), but as modern people, complying with regulations is compulsory. Often traveling among Mainland China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong, he finds that the liquor customs, etiquettes, and cultures in Taiwan and Beijing are very similar. That is, drinking up is a must. The truest and purist way of drinking, however, is to savor slowly and feel the burning sensation and aftertaste move among the mouth, the tip of the tongue, and the body. Only with ownership and respect for a preciousness can people truly enjoy it. "Savoring is a preciousness, a feeling, and is completely different from drinking." At home, today's Tiger Hu inherits the tradition of his father and stores all fine liquors in the liquor cabinet for remembrance and appreciation. These liquors can be drunk only on special and great occasions. "My Moutai must not be used in any social intercourse. In my inner world, Moutai has an extraordinary weight. I will be 50 a few years later. At that time I will invite my friends in Mainland China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong to savor Moutai at my home. Savoring is the only way for cherishing preciousness, and enjoying the aftertaste."

Zen in One Talk The program "Tiger Talk" anchored and named after Tiger Hu is considered a public forum that is created for the transitional China to achieve the universal right to speak. "In this forum, everybody's words count and all opinions are respected." In the form of discussion, this program selects weekly a focused topic of the society and invites people from all walks of life to express their opinions. In this fast-paced program, Tiger Hu is like a matador. With the fastest speech velocity, he elaborates the topic for the

involved parties, scholars, experts, celebrities, and ordinary people to start their discussions. On the stage, he is like a capable conductor for controlling the rhythm, so that various opposite opinions meet here and are united as a harmonious whole; he is also like a traffic policeman. He gives hints and such instructions as stop and go. He is preparing to respond to any unexpected conditions and makes judgments in the fastest time. His quick and accurate responses and wit amaze many people; however, he admits, "I often fail to control myself, guests, and spectators. Gradually I realize that the entire process of the program is a meaningful conversation mentioned in Zen, and what Zen emphasizes most is quick response." Therefore, he learns to let go all preparations once he enters the program. He is also good at balancing as well as provoking in the program, and reaches a tacit understanding with the debaters. He calls this "Buddha mouth but viper heart". Without any intention of "honey tongue but wicked heart", the purpose is to activate the impulse of debate and stimulate intellectual spark. "One Talk is a combination of social attitudes, containing various opinions from all walks of life and tolerating the ignorance of others. Sometimes experts also admit that what they talk for a long time is actually equivalent to a straightforward sentence of the general audience. In the program, Zen is everywhere, and meaningful conversation is always with us." He says, "The reason I like this program is that everyone is equal here, because I am a Buddhist." More than 10 years' anchoring make him realize that the "one" (One Talk) in "Tiger Talk" is "united as one" in Zen. We are all the same, and use debate as self-cultivation to discover the essence. The value of this program is not at the moment of watching, but after the broadcast. It leads people to listen to different opinions, speak cautiously, find out truth for the fact, and treat the fact fairly.

MOUTAI Magazine

Pure Heart, Correct Attitude

he swims almost every day. Specially, he likes to swim in raging water. This hobby, he says, is similar to his father, that is, to challenge oneself. Besides, he will definitely choose the midday hours because he loves sunshine.

From Taiwan to Hong Kong and from Hong Kong to Beijing, he feels very lucky to travel among Chinese communities around the world and make lots of friends, which enables him to see problems considerately. Seven years ago, Tiger Hu had mentioned the concept of "New Chinese". With "pure heart and correct attitude", "New Chinese" treat history and life tragedy inclusively and tolerantly. "New Chinese" are no longer divided by region, no longer fight with each other for ideology, and no longer separate from each other due to historical disputes. Today, facing many contradictions occurred within the Greater China region, this attitude seems more important. Therefore, he adds two points: First, the hostile attitudes of people among Mainland China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong are particularly evident. People can have a voice in a place only after they have an in-depth understanding of the local culture. "If you have never been to the other side or made friends there, you'd better keep silent. Otherwise, you are treating the other side with prejudice. Without thinking through the other side's eyes, Mainland China's policies for Hong Kong and Taiwan will never won the favor from people; without considering the complexity of Mainland China, how can the experience of Hong Kong and Taiwan be copied to Mainland China?" Second, in the current network culture, many netizens do not purify their minds or realize that the network is a public resource. Therefore, they express all their thoughts at will. "For some doubts, I have learned 'smile without replying' from Zen and time

Tiger Hu loves playing the piano, listening to opera, and playing the erhu (or nanhu). His personality of balance and integration is fully reflected in his music talent. "I had known since I was four years old that the best gift God gave me was not languages but musical notes. I can play any music as long as I hear it. Many people say I control the rhythm very well in my shows. This is in fact related to music." He says that talents are not indispensable, but they are the spice of life. "Without piano, I cannot be away from home and sustain in Hong Kong for so many years. In my house, even if the furniture is simple, but there must be a piano. When friends and classmates come to my gathering, they cook and I play the piano. This is a very special time and at the moment you will find the value of talent." For the problem of balancing career and family, Tiger Hu's answer is "three forces": values, friends and family. So he would not spend time in social intercourse, but spends most of his time with relatives and friends. In this sense, Tiger Hu obviously is a model of traditional Chinese men. With handsome look and upright moral, he is versatile and loyal, and loves his family very much. Swimming is his key to release pressure and keep his figure. As long as in Hong Kong,

Today, nongovernmental interactions between Mainland China and Taiwan are more and more frequent, and a gradually increasing number of Mainland cities are granted by the Individual Visit Scheme of traveling to Taiwan. At the end of the interview, he, as a host, enthusiastically recommends Taiwan's four greatest "aromas" that cannot be missed: book aroma, Brahma aroma, woman aroma, and natural aroma. Book aroma refers to a Taiwan bookstore — Eslite Bookstore. Once kids enter there, they will keep quiet and obediently sit on the floor to read books; Brahma aroma refers to Buddhist culture. The Buddha Memorial Center founded by Master Hsing Yun provides the best life education. Such technologies as 4D make Buddhist culture dynamic and create a pleasant atmosphere for people to understand what faith is. Woman aroma is available in streets. There are far more "Lin Chi-ling". You can find that kind of soft and gentle speaking manner almost anywhere in Taiwan. Natural aroma refers to Taiwan's landscape, especially in the East Rift Valley of eastern Taiwan. The beautiful mountains facing the Pacific Ocean will surely amaze you. The four aromas summarized by this "New Chinese" really arouse our impulse of going to Taiwan to smell them immediately.

他說，我們此刻的對話像是虛幻，只有在

快、口才比你好、頭腦比你清醒、見解比你深

達，讓人感受到漢語的美好。期間他獲邀品飲

飛機上，與現實有一定的距離，反倒是真實。

刻、知識比你淵博，且聲音洪亮、擲地有聲，

了一小杯飛天茅台酒，意料之外的是，他與茅

充滿正能量。

台的緣分很深，談起茅台時，就像是在講述一

他是擁有 13 億人口的國家裡最受歡迎的

Balance and Integration

Encountering Taiwan Aromas

電視節目主持人之一，每週有一半時間在空中

1967 年出生於台灣高雄的胡一虎，年少

個少年的回憶、一位家鄉的故知。約定的採訪

飛。他是胡一虎，英文名是中文名的直譯——

時的理想就是成為既能自在跑世界又可以學到

時間實在不夠用，就如他的節目，每期的每一

Tiger，他的個性就像中國人對虎的定義：熱

新知的記者。大學畢業後，他以第一名的成績

分鐘都用盡了、撐滿了，暢快淋漓得讓人有點

情、勇於挑戰並充滿力量。也許往來在萬米高

考入台灣華視，連續 5 年成為「台灣最受歡迎

措手不及，留下的啟示與靈感，在分開時才能

空時，他方能暫時抽離這個紛繁的世界與激辯

的十大主播」之一，並被評選為「全台灣最性

慢慢體悟，回到事實的本真。

的人群，放空自我，積蓄新的能量。

感男主播」。十三年前，他進入全球性華語衛

與一位華語界的大牌主持人喝著下午茶，暢談美酒、生活、新「華人」……就好似屏幕

will prove everything. Buddha gives me lots of strength and lets me calm down to look around, which is a self-cultivation as well. I would like to question people who curse on the Internet. Has the problem solved in this way? It would be more effective if you provide your opinions and suggestions."

星電視頻道鳳凰衛視，主持兩岸三地新聞時事節目，拉近了全世界華人的距離。

突然放大，的確是比較虛幻的事情。事實上，

一個下午的時光，從品酒到人生，從宗教

他遠比想像中更加令采訪者有壓力，思維比你

到才藝，他善於將文縐縐的書面語言清晰地表

MOUTAI Magazine

因珍貴而品味「真正與茅台的緣分源於爸爸的珍藏」剛一落座，胡一虎便告訴我們。

年少時期的胡一虎，獎品竟然是茅台。每

的過程就是禪宗所說的機鋒，禪最強調的就是

當考到全校前幾名或得了演講比賽冠軍，爸爸

應變。」也因此，他學會了在走進節目後，便

便讓他小酌幾口珍藏的茅台。「那滋味真是難

將之前的所有準備放空。

忘！對我而言，茅台酒是一個圖騰，是要完成

他還善於在節目中平衡撩撥，與辯論者達

一個成就之後享受的東西，一小酌就能給我更

成默契。他稱此為「佛口蛇心」，並非是「口

大的動力。」父親曾是軍人，存放在酒櫃的還

甜心毒」的本意，而是取其激發之意——調動

有父親的勛章，因此這是一個不輕易打開的櫃

辯論沖動，激發智慧火花。

平衡與融合胡一虎愛彈鋼琴、愛聽歌劇，愛拉南胡，平衡與融合的個性在他的音樂才藝中充分體現出來。「我從四歲的時候就知道，老天爺送我最好的禮物不是語言，而是音符。我只要聽到任

「一席談，就是社會百態的組合，在這裏

何音樂，都可以彈出來。很多人說我的節目對

包容各界見解，容忍他人無知。有時專家也承

節奏快慢掌握得很好，這其實與音樂有關。」

認，講了半天不過普通觀眾直白的一句話。這

他說，才藝並不是必要的東西，但是生活

有頭腦的人喝酒，並且有「三不」政策。第一，

裡面處處是禪機，到處有機鋒。」他說，「我

的情趣。「如果沒有鋼琴，我沒辦法一個人遠

說「不喝酒，不喝光，不是好兄弟」的人，不

喜歡這個節目就在於這裡眾生平等，因為我是

離故鄉在香港撐那麽多年，即使家具簡單，但

與他喝酒。在台灣眷村長大的他，親眼看到兄

佛教徒。」

一定要有鋼琴。朋友、老同學來聚會時，他們

子，為了能借機喝茅台，他常常慫恿父親，「來，老爸，我們父子交心一下。」胡一虎直言自己只跟真心的、有義氣的、

弟這樣被酒害死；第二，應酬場合不喝酒，只

十餘年來的主持讓他體悟到《一虎一席談》

做菜，我彈鋼琴，這是很特別的時光，這個時

喝茶；第三，酒後不開車。雖然嚮往竹林七賢

的「一」正是禪宗裡的「如一」，我們不分彼

的灑脫，但作為現代人要遵守法規。

此、以爭辯來修行，直抵本質。這個節目的價

在事業與家庭的平衡難題上，胡一虎的答

值不是在看的瞬間，而是播出之後，讓人們兼

案是「三個力量」：價值觀、朋友和家人。所

聽、慎言，還事實以真相，以公平。

以他不會花時間去做應酬的事，盡可能將時間

在遊走於兩岸三地的他看來，台灣與北京的酒俗、酒禮文化非常相像，喝酒要 drink up （一飲而盡）。但真正意義的飲酒是慢慢品味，從入口到舌尖、到身體，那種灼熱感與回味，對珍物的擁有與尊重才是享受。品，是一種珍貴，是一種體會，跟喝完全不一樣。

候就會發現才藝的價值。」

留給親友。此時的胡一虎分明就是個老派的中

清淨心，正知見

國男人楷模，長相俊朗，德行端正、多才多藝、重情重義、愛妻護女。

從台灣到香港，從香港到北京，他覺得自

而游泳是他舒壓與保持身材的方式。只要

如今的胡一虎在自家保留了父輩的傳統，

己很幸運，遊走在各地華人圈當中，交了很多

在香港，幾乎每天都會遊，而且還喜歡在大風

好酒都存放在酒櫃裡僅供紀念和觀賞，除非有

朋友，才會將心比心的看問題。七年前，胡一

大浪裡遊，他說這點像自己的父親，喜歡挑戰

特別的大事才可品飲。「我的茅台酒不可以當

虎曾提到過新「華人」的概念。新「華人」擁

自我。並且一定挑選在正午的時分，因為他愛

應酬酒，在我的內心世界裡，茅台有着非一般

有「清淨心，正知見」，以包容、寬容看待歷

陽光。

的份量。我還有幾年就到 50 歲了，到時候我

史與人生的悲劇。新「華人」不再以地域之分，

會請兩岸三地的朋友來家裡品茅台酒。因為珍

不再以意識形態打架，不再以區隔歷史的悲哀

貴，才會去品味；因為品味，就會有回味。」

來分割你我他。

一席談里的禪機

相遇台灣香

在今天，面對大中華地區內發生的許多矛

如今中國大陸與台灣的民間互動越來越頻

盾，這一點看來更為重要。為此他補充了兩點：

繁，台灣自由行開放城市也逐漸增多。在采訪

「第一是對『兩岸三地』來說，今天人們的敵

臨近結束時，他以主人的身份熱情的推薦在台

由胡一虎主持並以其名字而命名的節目

對心態特別明顯。體驗一個地方文化要深入瞭

灣不可錯過的四大「香」：書香、梵香、女人

《一虎一席談》，被認為是構建了轉型期中國

解後才有發言權。如果你從來沒有去過對方的

香、自然香。

的一個公共論壇，實現了全民話語權。

地方，也沒有交到當地的朋友，最好保持緘默，

書香是指台灣的書店——誠品書店，可以

否則你都是貼着標簽在看對方。沒有將心比心，

讓孩子們一走進去不敢說話，乖乖的席地而坐

重」，這檔以討論形式進行的節目，每週選取

對港台政策永遠不可能得到民心；沒有將心比

看書；梵香指的是佛教文化，星雲大師創建的

社會焦點，請來各界人士發表見解。節目的節

心瞭解大陸的複雜程度，港台的經驗又怎能複

佛陀紀念館裡有最棒的生命教育，4D 等科技

奏很快，胡一虎就像一個鬥牛士，以最快的語

製到大陸？」

讓佛教文化動感起來，讓人快樂的瞭解什麽是

「這裡不是一言堂，所有的意見都備受尊

「第二是針對現在的網絡文化。許多網民

信仰；女人香則需在大街小巷領略，台灣的「林

專家、明星、普通人開始辯論。在台上，他是

們沒有將心清淨，沒有意識到網絡是一種公眾

志玲」不止一個，那種柔順的說話方式到處都

個指揮家，有力地控制節奏，讓尖銳的觀點在

資源，而因此隨意發洩。對於一些質疑，我從

有；自然香是指台灣的山水，尤其是台灣東部

此交鋒並統一成和諧的整體；又是交通警察，

禪宗裡學到『笑而不語』，時間會證明一切。

的花東縱穀，面對太平洋的秀麗山脈，一定讓

停止、通行、示意，隨時應對突發的狀況，在

佛給我很多力量，讓我靜下來觀自在，這也是

你驚艷。

最快的時間裡做出判斷。

一種修煉。我想質問網絡上那些發言駡人的人，

速闡述主題後，便打開閘門，讓當事人、學者、

他快速準確的應變與機智令人們讚歎不已，然而他坦言，「我時常沒辦法掌握自己、

事情有解決嗎？拿出你的看法、你的建議，這

這位新「華人」總結的四香，還真讓人想立即前往寶島一聞為快。

樣會更有效。」

嘉賓及觀眾。慢慢我就頓悟了，其實整個節目

MOUTAI Magazine

Dialogue With CWC Founder Gregory De'Eb

酒所承載的是

故事思想

和

對話香港皇冠酒窖創始人 Gregory De'Eb PLANNING/ 策劃： Dora Lu INTERVIEW/ 采訪：Penny Zhou PHOTO/ 攝：OldHou&Kangsheng INTERVIEW LOCATION/ 采訪地點：Crown Wine Cellars

lasshouse, leather sofa, luxurious décor and shelves of rare and fine wine—if it wasn't for the historic photos on the walls depicting the unglamorous previous life of the place now known as Crown Wine Cellars (CWC), one would have had a hard time imagining that this elegant private club was a former WWII bunker that'd been overgrown and forgotten for half a century. Nestled in Shouson Hill, an exclusive suburb on Hong Kong Island, Crown Wine Cellars was initiated in 2001 and stands today not only as one of world's finest wine storage facilities, but also a UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Site. The man responsible for this dramatic transformation is Gregory De'Eb, an ex-career diplomat from South Africa who has spent over two decades in China and made Hong Kong his permanent home.

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The Accidental Sinophile However, living halfway around the world from his motherland and running an ultrasuccessful wine-related business wasn't exactly a young De'Eb had envisioned for himself. Growing up on a rural farm in Africa, De'Eb had extremely limited connection with the outside world as a youngster. Upon graduation, he joined Mercedes-Benz as a labor lawyer, only to receive a message two days into his new job from the Foreign Ministry of South Africa saying that he'd been accepted as a young diplomat, which came as a total surprise. "I never ever thought that I would get in because you had thousands of people applying for five positions. It's so competitive," he recalls. "And I certainly wasn't the valedictorian of the class. Even

the university I went to was a tiny rural one with only 3,000 people there. Anyway, of course once I got the opportunity, I dropped everything else." In the late 1980s, Asia wasn't an attractive destination for aspiring diplomats, so when De'Eb expressed his desire to go to Taiwan, he had no opposition. He arrived in Taiwan in his mid-20s, and worked there for a short time until the foreign service opened a diplomatic office in Beijing, where he served for four years. His career eventually brought him to Hong Kong in 1998, a place he always wanted to live in. And in order to continue staying here, he eventually made the decision to retire as a diplomat. "I've lived half of my life in China—it's the only place I know and it's my reference point for everything," he says. "Africa is my place of birth but China is

For Gregory De'Eb, no matter it's turning a heritage site into a top-notch wine cellar or sharing a fine bottle with friends at dinner table, alcohol has been a crucial part in his efforts to keep the cultural legacies and human stories alive. my home. In many ways I'm totally Chinese. My children go to local Chinese schools and their first language is Cantonese." For De'Eb, being able to spend the past 20 years in China and witness its enormous changes is a great experience that he'll always treasure, and there is one aspect of the new Chinese society that he particularly resonates with: "I've never enjoyed the benefits of having a rich family or the best education. So I think my own story shows that if you have the right approach to life, you can do anything. And that's maybe why I feel so close to China and Hong Kong than I do to Africa." He adds that although Hong Kong has a much longer history of people having a fair-play environment, it's only since the early 1990s that people in China have had the same chance. "There're so many

stories in China now, where young people are able to use their abilities to the maximum and achieve great things by themselves. It's quite remarkable to see how things are changing with one generation of people. For the first time, the real potential of China has just been unleashed. It's an exciting time to be here," he says with enthusiasm.

The Unconventional Connoisseur It was through his diplomatic career that De'Eb developed an affinity with wine, for it was involved in almost every formal event he went to. However, he never allowed himself to become too academic about wine, even by the time when he started Crown Wine Cellars and had to suddenly take a professional interest, wine pedantry was something that

對於 Gregory De’Eb 來說，不論是打造一流的酒窖還是和朋友們舉杯共飲，酒都是傳承人類文化和書寫人間故事的最好夥伴。

he cautiously avoided. As a result, he has never read a book about wine or attended a wine training course; all his experiences and knowledge about wine come from drinking with people with expertise, and spending a lot of time with winemakers and wine owners. With his own humble background, De'Eb finds it natural to have an emotional connection to winemakers. "If you listen to them, you'll see that they're just farmers. So it became really close to my heart because my dad was a farmer," he says. "Then you see it in a completely different way: it's more about the beauty, the family, the tradition, and less about this endless technical breakdown of wine which I really don't like." For him, overanalyzing a wine is like measuring the facial features of a beautiful woman with a ruler. "That's horrible!" he laughs. "Saying

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'I can taste 3% of this and 2% of that' is no different than saying 'her nose is great but her eyes are 3 cm too close to each other', it ruins everything. Like people, wine has mother and father too, who worked incredibly hard to make the best product they could possibly make, no matter how humble it is. You don't call certain wine awful just because it's not to your taste. You don't have to like it, but you can appreciate it. Understand that nothing is perfect and always be respectful." De'Eb admits that though he is also a fan of fine spirits such as whisky, cognac and Chinese liquor, wine is his drink of choice, for a large part because of its soft taste and wide diversityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;"You can have an amazingly light and delicate wine over here, and an extremely strong young wine over there, and everything in between. So depending on your mood or the food you're eating, you have all the options in the world." Compared to wine appreciation, however, wine storage allows much less flexibility, especially when it comes to preserving the fine and rare. De'Eb explains that it's because wine is a living being inside a bottle, with all its molecules and cells still alive and going through evolution. And to protect it perfectly, we need to keep it relatively stable and in a consistently cool temperature, so it can blossom the way it should. For red wine, the ideal temperature is between 14 and 16 degrees, while for white, it's 11 to 13. Too hot, the content will mature too quickly; too cold, it retards the process. Humidity is another critical area. If the air is overly moist, mold may start to develop around the cork, which can breathe through the wood and get taken into the wine. If the bottle is placed in a very dry climate, too much wine would be sucked out. So when you buy a bottle of wine, pay attention to the obvious indicators: the color, the level of the neck, the condition of the cork and foil. But if you really don't want to take the chance, keep your fine wine in a professionally designed cellar. "It's the best way to store wine," De'Eb swears by it.

The Heritage-Conscious Businessman De'Eb's idea of getting into the winestorage business actually came from the Hong Kong government. In June 2000, eight years before the city became world's first major economy to impose no tax on imported wines, the government held a seminar themed "Can

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Hong Kong be the wine trading center of Asia?". De'Eb was among the approximately 400 people that attended it, and likely the only one who took the question seriously. "Right at the end of the seminar they spoke of all these historical places and said you could do wine storage in them, and people started laughing and walking out because they thought it's a stupid idea," he remembers. "And it hit me: you've got government support, no competition; all you need to do is to figure out a viable business model." With that vision in mind, he started doing extensive research. He called all the major wine storage companies around the world and asked them approximately how many of their accounts were from Hong Kong. And the number, which he expected to be 1-2%, turned out to be a staggering 17%. In the meantime, Hong Kong-based American businessman Jim Thompson, the owner of the famous Crown Worldwide Group, happened to be contemplating on storing wine in his large number of warehouses. In August 2001, at a fateful dinner party at Thompson's house, his wife brought the two like-minded men together and told them to talk to each other and maybe figure something out. The rest, as they say, is history. That year, De'Eb visited the site of the current cellars for the first time, and saw literally just eight concrete holes on the ground, once used as an ammunition and weapons depot by the British army. Nobody knew anything about its history, including the fact that it was the last place during the WWII to surrender to the Japanese in 1941. And the site's only remaining above-ground structure was untimely destroyed eight months before his visit. But he knew that the place, located 60 feet under a mountain, with 1-meter-wide walls and 2.5-meter-thick ceilings all made with reinforced concrete, would make an outstanding wine cellar. "A wine cellar, by definition, needs to be an underground facility, which Hong Kong has few of," he says. "Our site's cave-like structure keeps it very cool, white its long passage only lets in a very small amount of hot air, and you can capture it and get it out through another door." Committed to making it the best wine cellar in the world, De'Eb and Thompson assembled a team of renowned engineers, and asked them to come to Hong Kong and draw up a flawless engineering report on the

site. The result was an 80-page document with myriad of technical specifications. Executing this plan, as they soon learned, was a million times harder, because on top of the need to create the exact temperature and humidity they wanted, there were countless modern rules and regulations that they struggled to comply with in the course of revamping a historical structure. "Those rules were made for new buildings, not a 1937 concrete hole in the ground. So simple things like fire escapes, slope structural stability and the width of the doorway, could all become nightmares," De'Eb sighs. It was an uphill battle against technical difficulties and bureaucracy, but the team eventually fought through all of them and preserved the heritage site as much as they could. Interestingly, although all the historic records on the site has been lost, after De'Eb and his team's involvement, a lot of people started to come forward and provide information about it. Among them are several photo historians and author Tony Banham. By 2006, De'Eb had assembled a coherent story about the site. He applied it to UNESCO the following year, and it was declared an Asia Pacific Heritage Site. This was the first publicprivate heritage preservation project in Hong Kong that led to many other similar efforts in the following years. "It's important to me to know that this site is recognized by the public and will stand for future generations, because heritage conservation is something I'm very passionate about," De'Eb says. "Using it as wine cellars is just one of its past and present functions, and one that's helping this living heritage survive. These are the things that define a society and a great city in future times. If we don't protect our shared heritage, we lose our history."

The Cultural Ambassador Hearing De'Eb speak fluent Mandarin about all things Chinese, one must marvel at his devotion to learning and living the culture that he lovingly inhabits and preserves. As a diplomat and a businessman, he has been an integral part of the cultural exchange between China and the rest of the world, but tracing back to the very beginning, as a young man trying to find his place in a strange country some 20 years ago, it was alcohol that served the role of a cultural ambassador. "I arrived in China very young and could

stay up late. I made some good friends who loved to drink, and we drank a lot of Moutai not just because it's a popular choice, but because I truly liked it," he reminisces. "We used to hang out in darts bars, because in the early 1990s, it's one of those few places where local Chinese and foreigners would mix and have fun together. All of my fondest late-night memories in China have involved Moutai." That memory also extended to his professional life, as every time he went to formal functions, it'd be almost required that Moutai would be on the dinner table. "I completely get it. It's a national drink, and represents a national culture and pastime. I have very warm feelings for it because it's intrinsic in me becoming Chinese," he adds. However, the dark side of that, he warns, is that Moutai's revered reputation and status may create a tendency for people to put it on a pedestal, to respect it too much to innovate and improve them. "All of us change as day goes on, and our tastes change. If a drink can't move forward, then it doesn't allow the fact that people evolve," he shares his insights, with suggestions for this national treasure to further expand its international market. "Diversifying the products and rebranding the image are two great ways to do it. I can easily

see Moutai develop a young person's drink, a party drink, a female-friendly drink, and cocktail recipes." De'Eb firmly believes that alcohol plays an incredibly significant part in the cultural communication between nations. "For some magical reason, drinking is acceptable across all cultures. If you're asked where tequila comes from, nobody is going to answer anything else other than Mexico. If you think of vodka, you think of Russia, even though there are famous American brands out there. Even wine, although it's first made in Italy, people will always associate it with France. Sake can only be Japanese. You have these national associations with drinks. "Plus, on a more intimate level, alcohol can be enjoyed with all kinds of food, and different grades of alcohol fit in different stages of the evening in a very nice way," he continues. "It's also something that a host can be very proud of, so it becomes one of those special and universal topics like art. It's personal, but it can be enjoyed by the people you cherish." There is no doubt that his vision is shared by many others, for his cellars are currently looking after around two billion dollars' worth of wine. Following the success of the

De’Eb 時常在酒窖舉行晚餐派對，每每有聚會超過淩晨三點，他就會邀請留下的客人們在酒瓶上簽名，以作紀念。

original Crown Wine Cellars, a new major wine storage was built in New Territories. Fully equipped with a state-of-the-art security system, it is, in De'Eb's own words, the "Alcatraz of wine". His growing business is a testimony of Hong Kong's wine market boom, which, in his opinion, isn't exactly a miracle: "It's really built on the foundation that had been developed in the past 40 years: getting the right collectors, wines and merchants. The zero tax only acted a final ingredient to the cake mix, the catalyst." In other words, it's the history that shapes the presence and the future. "The moment you know a drink's historic origins and why it's important, you begin to associate it with its cultural background, and they become harmonious and inseparable with each other. That's the essence I keep on coming back to: the story and the message that's carried by the bottle," De'Eb concludes. Crown Wine Cellars is the perfect embodiment of his belief—boasting a history spanning nearly 80 years, it is a fascinating old tale that has welcomed some new chapters, and with the countless bottles of wine housed in here, it's destined to create many, many more stories.

De’Eb constantly hosts wine parties at the cellars, and when they last beyond 3 am, remaining guests are invited to sign the bottles they’re drinking, which are displayed as memorabilia.

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玻璃屋、皮沙發、考究的裝潢，再加上層

後，Gregory 被調到了部門在北京新開設的外

有競爭壓力。我唯一需要做的就是拿出一個可

層疊疊的高檔酒瓶——若不是墻上的歷史照片

交辦公室，在那兒生活了四年。在 1998 年，

行的經營方案。」

描繪出皇冠酒窖的前世風貌，沒人能夠想象這

他又隨著工作需要來到了一個他一直向往的城

那一年，Gregory 第一次拜訪了酒窖的

個豪華優雅的私人俱樂部竟曾是一個二戰時期

市——香港。最終，為了定居香港，他選擇了

現址，看到的僅僅是八個水泥洞。這裏曾被

的軍事掩體，半個多世紀以來雜草叢生、無人

在這裏結束自己的外交生涯。「我把半生的時

英軍用來存放軍火武器，甚至是二戰中最後

問津。坐落於香港港島南部壽臣山中的皇冠酒

間都給了中國，這是我唯一了解的國家，也是

向日軍投降的地點，但幾乎沒有人知道它們的

窖始於 2001 年，如今，它不僅是全球頂級藏

我用來參照所有其他事物的基點。非洲是我出

歷史。就連這個遺跡僅存的地上建築也不幸在

酒地之一，更是聯合國教科文組織認可的亞太

生的地方，但中國是我的家，在很多方面，我

Gregory 到訪前八個月被鏟平了。但當他得知

區文物古跡。如此巨大的轉變要歸功於一個

都是地地道道的中國人。我的孩子也是上本地

這個地方頭上有 60 尺的山體，墻和天花板都

人：Gregory De’Eb，這位來自南非的前外

的中國學校，他們的母語是廣東話。」他說道。

用幾米寬的加強水泥築城，他立刻明白這裏將

交官已在中國居住了 20 多年，並將香港定為了他永久的家。

不忘歷史的生意人

「酒窖的定義決定了它必須建於地下，而香港的地下設施少之又少，」他說道，「我們

至於做葡萄酒貯藏的生意，Gregory 告

的場地如同一個地下洞穴，因此非常涼爽；另

訴我們這個念頭最初來自香港政府。2000 年

外，這裏的出入通道狹長，只允許很少的熱空

兒時的 Gregory 一定做夢也想不到今後

6 月的一天，政府舉辦了一個研討會，主題為

氣進入，還可以很容易地通過另一扇門排出。」

的自己將旅居於半個地球之外，經營著與酒有

「香港能否成為亞洲葡萄酒交易中心？」，在

決心打造一個世界一流酒窖的 Gregory 和 Jim

關的大生意。成長於一個非洲鄉村農場的他，

約 400 名與會者中，Gregory 大概是唯一一個

很快請來了一組業界知名的工程師到香港，一

年輕時與外面的花花世界幾乎沒有交集。大學

把此問題當真的人。

齊為這個遺址寫出一份最好的工程方案。整個

意外成了中国通

是建酒窖的絕佳場所。

畢業後，他以勞動法律師的身份加入了奔馳汽

「要知道八年後的 2008 年，港府才取消

車公司，剛剛工作兩天，卻接到來自南非外交

了葡萄酒進口關稅。記得研討會接近尾聲時，

部的來信，通知他已被錄取為一名外交人員。

演講人開始介紹一些香港的歷史遺跡，說這些

盡管關於遺址的歷史記錄已統統遺失，在

在 80 年代末，亞洲對於大多年輕外交人

地方適合儲藏酒，很多人竟大笑了起來並起身

Gregory 和團隊開始參與進它的保護工作後，

員來說無甚吸引力，所以當 Gregory 提出想駐

離開，因為他們覺得這個想法很蠢」他說，「於

包括作家 Tony Banham 在內的許多歷史學家

派台灣，沒人有意見。在台灣工作了不長時間

是我靈機一動：做這個生意既有政府支持又沒

紛紛站出來，提供自己所知的關於遺址的信息。

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團隊戰勝了種種技術難題和官僚主義，在建成酒窖的同時也盡可能地保存了遺址的原貌。

到了 2006 年，Gregory 收集到的資料已能夠

化和打造新穎的品牌形象都是很好的辦法。我

它的重要性，兩者就成為了和諧、不可分割的

拼湊出一個較為完整的故事，於是他在次年向

可以輕易地預見茅台在將來發展出適合年輕人

一體。這就是我不斷強調的一點：酒所承載的

聯合國教科文組織提出申請，隨後酒窖所在地

和女性的產品，甚至創作出以茅台為基礎的雞

是故事和思想，」Gregory 總結道。Gregory

便被授予了亞太地區文物古跡的稱號。這是香

尾酒。」

對酒的見解顯然也被很多人分享——皇冠酒窖

港歷史上第一個公眾和私人聯合完成的古跡保

Gregory 堅信酒對民族文化的交融影響深

目前的藏酒價值高達 20 億美元。緊隨著第一

護項目，它的成功在之後的多年中啟發了多個

遠。「酒在所有文化中都是被接受的，這一點

個酒窖的成功，皇冠在幾年前於香港新界建造

類似的保護工作。

很神奇。如果有人問龍舌蘭是哪裏來的，沒有

了一個更大的貯酒倉庫，並配備了最先進的保

「這個遺址能夠被公眾所知，並世世代代

人不會說墨西哥。當妳想到伏特加，妳就會想

安系統以保障客戶的財產安全。皇冠酒窖正是

屹立不倒，對我來說很重要。文化遺跡的保護

到俄羅斯，盡管一些美國品牌也很知名。哪怕

這種理念的完美化身——這個擁有近 80 年歷

是我一直非常熱衷的事業，」他說。「藏酒只

是葡萄酒，它的原產地是意大利，但是人們還

史的古跡恰似一個奇妙的古老傳說，正迎來新

是它的過去、現在和未來所有功能中的其中一

是會想到法國。而清酒則一定是日本的。我們

的篇章；而它裏頭數不盡的酒瓶則保證了今後

個，在目前，這個功能幫助它繼續存活下去。

不由自主地將不同的酒和不同的國家和文化聯

會有更多更多的美好故事從中發生。

文化古跡是定義一個社會、一個城市的重要象

系起來。」

征物，如果我們不保護我們的共有遺產，我們

「一旦妳了解了一種酒背後的歷史淵源和

就失去了自己的歷史。」

最好的文化使節聽著 Gregory 操著流利的普通話，談論著各種關於中國的話題，不難想見他為了學習和保護中國文化下足了功夫。作為一名外交官和商人，他對中國和世界之間的文化交流做出了很大的貢獻。不過，遙想 20 多年前，當他剛剛來到中國時，酒才是這個在陌生國度摸索方位的小夥子最好的文化使節。「我最初到中國時非常年輕，因此喜歡晚上出去玩。我結交了一些愛喝酒的朋友，而我們聚在一起經常會喝茅台。這不僅是因為茅台很流行，更重要的是我的確喜歡它的味道」他笑著回憶，「我們會去一些玩飛鏢的酒吧聚會，因為在 90 年代初，那些酒吧是中國極少的本地人和外國人能玩在一起的地方。想起那些和中國朋友們度過的愉快時光，就會想起茅台酒的助陣！」如此的回憶同樣延伸到了他的工作環境，每次去正式宴會，幾乎都能在餐桌上看見茅台。「我一點也不驚奇。茅台是國酒，代表了一個民族的文化。我對它有著非常溫暖的回憶，因為從一定程度上說，茅台幫助了我成為一個中國人。」他說。然而，他警覺地表示茅台的顯赫地位也可能造成負面的效應，使得人們過於尊重它，而

Gregory:

Moutai is intrinsic in me becoming Chinese.

從一定程度上說，茅台幫助了我成為一個中國人。

不敢將茅台進行創新和改造。「隨著一個人的成熟，他的口味也會發生變化。如果一種酒裹足不前，那就難以適應喝酒者的成長。」他分享了自己的見解，同時也提出了一些好的建議，讓國酒茅台更好地拓展國際市場。「產品多樣

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Seeking Wisdom From

Confucius 到中國孔子那尋找智慧 INTERVIEW, EDITING / 采訪、編輯：Laura Su TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

西班牙瓦倫西亞大學孔子學院在古城堡前組織新春舞龍表演。 Spain, Confucius Institute at the University of Valencia: A Chinese New Year Dragon Dance performance is held in front of the old gate of Valencia.

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In Germany, during recent years, the number of Chinese language learners has increased for more than five times and Chinese has become a secondary-school exam subject in many states of Germany. The once little-known Sinology Department in universities has also become a popular major now. In South Korea, the Chinese Proficiency Test scores have become one of the criteria for employment and promotion in many large enterprises. Now 61 countries worldwide and the EU have included Chinese language courses into their national education systems, and more than 100 countries have set up Chinese courses or Chinese majors. Unawares, the Chinese that was once considered as "a sealed book" is getting very popular around the world. As a result, helping people around the world to learn Chinese and understand Chinese civilization, has become the dutybound global mission of "Confucius Institute". 在德國，幾年間，學漢語的人數增加了 5 倍以上，中文已經是德國許多州的中學會考科目，曾經門可羅雀的大學漢學系也已成為熱門科系。在韓國，漢語水平考試成績已經成為許多大企業用人、升職的標準之一。現在全球已有 61 個國家和歐盟將漢語教學納入本國國民教育體系，100 多個國家開設了漢語課或漢語專業。不知具體何時起，曾被視為「天書」的漢語受到了全世界的熱捧。讓全球的人們學漢語、了解中華文明，也成為了「孔子學院」責無旁貸的全球使命。

China's Most Wonderful Exported Product What is "Confucius Institute"? On November 21, 2004, the first Confucius Institute was established in Seoul, Korea. Confucius Institute is a nonprofit public institution established by the Chinese government to promote Chinese language, spread Chinese culture as well as traditional Sinology education, and promote cultural exchanges. Over 10 years, China Hanban (Confucius Institute Headquarters) has cooperatively opened 465 Confucius Institutes and 713 Confucius Classrooms in 123 countries worldwide. Thanks to the active promotion of Confucius Institutes, this ancient Oriental language and civilization are no longer mysterious, and are bursting with new vitality. In addition to China, how many people in the world are learning Chinese as well? Mr. Xia Jianhui, Deputy Chief Executive of Confucius Institute Headquarters and Deputy Director-General of Hanban, tells us that the current number of global Chinese learners outside China is up to 100 million, which is the official data released by the Chinese

authority. Confucius Institutes all over the world hold annually more than 20,000 events such as cultural and academic lectures, performances, cultural exhibitions, and various cultural experiences, with an audience of over 10 million. Every year Confucius Institutes hold the "Chinese Bridge" Chinese Proficiency Competitions for foreign college and secondary school students, with over 500,000 participants from more than 90 countries. On September 27 this year alone, about 1,200 Confucius Institutes and Classrooms in 123 countries held a total of over 3,000 activities to celebrate the first global "Confucius Institute Day", involving up to 10 million participants. "Civilizations have become richer and more colorful with exchanges and mutual learning." Some foreign media even commented that Confucius Institute is by far the best and most wonderful exported product of China.

Civilization Belongs to the Whole World As early as 2,500 years ago, Confucius traveled through various kingdoms in ancient

China to spread Confucianism and was followed by 3,000 students. Today, Confucius Institutes inherit and carry forward the concepts of "harmony is most precious" and "harmony without uniformity", cross seas and oceans, and become a messenger of cultural exchanges as well as a global education brand. Is the booming development of "Confucius Institute" a manifestation of borderless culture or a "new China-craze" along with China's rise in recent years? Xia Jianhui believes that this in fact is due to the comprehensive attraction of Chinese culture to foreigners. They are not only fascinated by the traditional Chinese culture that has been inherited for 5,000 years, but also very interested in the ever-changing but uniquely charming contemporary Chinese culture and the Chinese road. In other words, cultural differences become a source of interest. Nowadays, information technology has shortened the distance of time and space. In this era with accelerated exchange and integration of diversified civilizations, many famous scholars of foresight recognize that the concept of civilization conflict will cause more turbulent world situation and

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lead mankind to the brink of war. Only the concepts of "harmony is most precious", "inclusiveness is prized", and "universal harmony" advocated by Chinese civilization can lead mankind to the peace process. Therefore, when discussing the future of the new century in 1988, 75 Nobel Prize winners made the assertion in Paris that if human beings want to live in peace and prosperity in the 21st century, they must look back 2,540 years and seek the wisdom from Confucius. Along with the spreading of Chinese culture, China's liquor culture is gradually accepted and understood by the world. While the Chinese culture is sweeping the world, as the initiator of "cultural liquor", Moutai also becomes a treasure of Chinese liquor culture

thanks to its splendid national liquor culture, and is favored by many people around the world.

Spreading Chinese Culture Together With Moutai Xia Jianhui tells us a true story. In June 2014, Dr. Sidney McPhee, President of Middle Tennessee State University (MTSU) visited China. Due to excessive fatigue, he was suffering from intervertebral disc protrusion caused by muscle spasms. He was in great pain and cannot move his upper body. Neither injections nor medicine took effect. When meeting Sidney McPhee, Xia Jianhui advised him to drink some cups of Moutai to relieve

Spreading Chinese Culture Together With Moutai

UPSIDE:

比利時魯汶工程聯合大學孔子學院小學員們在孔子學院舉辦的 2010 年春節晚會上表演節目。 Belgium, Confucius Institute at Group T: Elementary school children give a

performance at the 2010 Spring Festival Gala held by the Confucius Institute.

RIGHT:

英國倫敦中醫孔子學院 Crawley 功夫學校孔子課堂精神抖擻的小學員們。 UK, Confucius Classroom at Grawley Kongfu School, established under the

Confucius Institute for Traditional Chinese Medicine, London: Energetic Pupils.

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symptoms. He was somewhat skeptical. Xia Jianhui then used the traditional Chinese medicine theory to explain to him: Chinese liquor can stimulate blood circulation, remove blood stasis, promote blood flow, and relax muscles; besides, Moutai is made of organic grains and has good unblocking effect. After a try, Sidney McPhee's pain was greatly reduced and he felt very amazing. Then, Xia Jianhui took him to see a traditional Chinese medicine doctor. After taking some traditional Chinese medicine, on the next day, he almost recovered and could move freely, which surprised him very much. On this basis, with a sketchy understanding of traditional Chinese medicine, Chinese liquor culture, and Chinese diet, Xia Jianhui introduced to him

the concepts of unity and interconnection in Chinese philosophy as well as the theories of Five Elements and Health Preservation. Since then, Sidney McPhee had become a loyal follower and messenger of traditional Chinese medicine and Chinese health preservation science. In fact, as pioneers of promoting Chinese culture, as early as in March 2011, Moutai Group and Hanban had jointly signed a "Strategic Cooperation Agreement on Culture Promotion" in the Confucius Institute Headquarters of Beijing to jointly set up the Confucius Institute development fund for rewarding outstanding Chinese learners from different countries and subsidizing activities of promoting Chinese internationally. The two

parties also agreed to cooperate in such fields as developing Chinese liquor culture teaching materials suitable to be spread overseas. For the cooperation between Hanban and Moutai Group, Xia Jianhui considers it a model of positive interaction and winwin cooperation between a culture media organization and a national enterprise. As one of the most famous national enterprises, Moutai also shoulders the mission of spreading Chinese liquor culture, demonstrating the image of Chinese national enterprise, and telling Chinese stories. Meanwhile, Xia Jianhui also suggests that Moutai Group in the future can also support constructions of Confucius Institutes in such ways as donating to schools, participating

in the establishment of Confucius Institutes, and carrying out Moutai themed activities. Confucius Institutes in different countries can also help people all over the world to better understand Moutai's brand in such ways as setting up exhibiting and experiencing areas of Moutai liquor culture, inviting Moutai Group to participate in culture promotion activities, and holding high-end promotion events for Moutai. In these ways, both parties will benefit from the real win-win cooperation and better demonstrate China's image together.

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英國布萊頓中學孔子課堂書法課。 UK, Confucius Classroom at Brighton College: a Chinese calligraphy class.

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中國國家主席習近平曾於 2009 年 12 月 22 日與柬埔寨副首相索安共同

茅台集團公司黨委副書記、紀委書記趙書躍（右）簽署《文化推廣戰略合作協議》（王靜攝）

為柬埔寨王家學院孔子學院揭牌。

Mr. Zhao Shuyue (right), Deputy Party Secretary and Secretary of Discipline Inspection Commission of Moutai Group, signed

Chinese President Xi Jinping and Cambodian Deputy Prime Minister Sok An jointly

inaugurated the Confucius Institute of Royal Academy of Cambodia on December

the "Strategic Cooperation Agreement on Culture Promotion" (Photographed by Wang Jing)

22, 2009.

中國出口的最妙產品「孔子學院」是什麼？

類和平進程，也才有了 1988 年 75 位諾貝爾獎獲得者在巴黎討論新世紀的前途時說的一句話：21 世紀人類如果要過和平幸福的生活，就應該回到 2540 年前的中國孔子那裡尋找智慧。

2004 年 11 月 21 日在韓國首爾成立了第一家孔子學院，這是中國官方設立的推廣漢語和傳播中國文化與國學教育的文化交流機構，同時她是一個非盈利性的社會公益機構。十年後，中國國家漢辦已在

與國酒共傳中華文化

全球 123 國合作開辦了 465 所孔子學院和 713 個孔子課堂，在孔子學

在這個過程中，中國的酒文化也在中華文化的傳播過程中逐步被

院的積極推廣下，那個古老而不再神秘的東方語言和文明煥發出了新

世界所接受與瞭解。在世界刮起中華文化旋風的同時，率先提出「文

的生機。

化酒」理念的茅台，也以流光溢彩的國酒文化成為中國酒文化的瑰寶，

除了中國，到底世界上還有多少人在學習漢語？孔子學院總部副總幹事、中國國家漢辦副主任夏建輝告訴我們，中國以外的全球漢語學習人數目前有 1 億人之多。這是中國官方給出的權威數據。

被各國的人民所喜愛。夏建輝與我們講述了一個真實故事。2014 年 6 月，美國中田納西大學校長 Sidney McPhee 博士在華訪問期間，因過度勞累，肌肉痙攣

全球孔子學院每年舉辦文化學術講座、文藝演出、文化展覽和各

導致椎間盤突出，疼痛難忍，上身無法移動，多次打針吃藥均不見效。

類文化體驗活動 2 萬多場，受眾 1000 萬多人。每年舉辦世界大、中學

夏建輝見到他後，一是勸他喝幾小杯茅台酒以緩解症狀。他將信將疑，

生「漢語橋」中文比賽，90 多個國家參賽人數超過 50 萬。僅今年 9

夏建輝用中醫理論給他解釋，中國白酒能夠活血化瘀，促進血液流動，

月 27 日，123 國的 1200 多個孔子學院和課堂共計舉辦 3000 多場活動，

並放鬆肌肉，而且茅台酒為純糧食釀造，發散疏通效果良好。嘗試之下，

慶祝首個全球「孔子學院日」，參加人數達上千萬人。

疼痛立減，Sidney McPhee 感覺非常神奇。二是帶他看了中醫，服用

文明因交流而多彩，文明因互鑒而豐富。有國外媒體評論，孔子學院是迄今為止中國出口的一個最好、最妙的產品。

湯藥。第二天就好了 90%，能夠自由移動，他驚喜異常。在此基礎上，夏建輝用自己對中醫、中國酒文化和中國飲食的粗淺理解，為介紹了中國哲學的整體觀、相互聯繫的觀念和五行節氣、養生的理論。從此，

文明是全世界的

Sidney McPhee 成為中醫和中國養生學的堅定追隨者和傳播者。實際上，作為致力於推行中華文化的先行者，早在 2011 年 3 月，

早在 2500 多年前，孔子周遊列國、傳播儒家思想，吸引了門客

茅台集團與國家漢辦就已在北京孔子學院總部共同簽署了《文化推廣

三千。今天，孔子學院秉承孔子「和為貴」、「和而不同」的理念，

戰略合作協議》，共同設立孔子學院專項發展基金，以獎勵各國優秀

越洋過海成為了文化交流的使者，成為全球性的教育品牌。

漢語學習者，以及資助漢語國際推廣活動，並將在開發適合海外傳播

對於「孔子學院」雨後春筍的發展，這是文化無國界的體現，還

的中國酒文化教材等方面開展合作。

是伴隨中國近年崛起而帶來的“新中國熱”？夏建輝認為，實際上這

對於漢辦與茅台的合作，夏建輝認為，這是文化傳播機構與民族

緣於中國文化對國外人們的全方位吸引力，既對悠久的綿延 5 千年一

企業良性互動、合作共贏的典範。茅台作為最著名的民族企業之一，

脈相承的中國傳統文化著迷，又對日新月異而不失獨特魅力的當代中

也肩負著傳播中国酒文化，展示中国民族企业形象，講好中國故事的

國文化和中國道路充滿興趣，是文化差異成為興趣之源。

使命。同時，夏建輝建議，茅台集團今後還可通過捐資助學、參與承

當下，信息化技術縮短了時空距離，人類處在一個多樣文明加速

辦孔子學院、冠名品牌活動等各種形式支持孔子學院建設，各國孔子

交流融匯的時代，很多先知先覺的著名學者都認識到，文明衝突的理

學院亦可通過設立茅台酒文化展示體驗區、邀請茅台參與文化推廣活

念只會導致世界局勢愈加動蕩，把人類推向戰爭的邊緣。只有中華文

動、為茅台舉辦高端推介會等形式幫助世界各國人民瞭解茅台品牌，

明崇尚的「以和為貴」「兼收並蓄」「天下大同」的理念才能引導人

使雙方真正合作共贏，共同展示中國形象。

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The

珍饈 8 味 TEXT/ 文 : Yu Yat Yiu PHOTO/ 攝 : Han Xingxi

Despite being invented and perfected in the land of ancient China, what exactly is "Chinese Cuisine"? This particular question wouldn't be something too many will ask, for eating is just too much an ordinary part of our daily lives for as long as history remembers. 中國菜除了生於中國長於中國，它其實究竟是甚麼？這個「它是甚麼」的問題，我想會去問的人應該不會太多。不去提問的原因相信也不少，而且也不容易找到絕對的答案。

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espite being invented and perfected in the land of ancient China, what exactly is "Chinese Cuisine"? This particular question wouldn't be something too many will ask, for eating is just too much an ordinary part of our daily lives for as long as history remembers. When something so routine and trivial is actually an important part of our culture, it's not surprising that people tend to ignore its existence once and for all, not because they don't think that it's important, but because everybody indeed embraces their food culture without much noticing it. There are so many things in life that we take them for granted just too casually. It's not until those things suddenly become scarce, we will then realize how important to us they actually are. I've been living in a foreign country for some years. During that time, the food that I grew up with and took it for granted, which is Hong Kong Cantonese

food, inevitably became my ultimate comfort. However, no matter how hard I've tried, how many different Chinese restaurants I went to, even most of them are owned and run by fellow Chinese, the taste of food was just not the same as those from home. Over times, this mystery of "not the same" taste from supposedly the same food made me start wondering what "Cantonese Cuisine" actually is; is it just a list of names of some commonly famous dishes? Is it just a particular way of cooking? Is it an art of seasoning, plating, or is it defined by its distinctive use of ingredient, or even a peculiar way of food cutting and preparation? Obviously there won't be a 'right' answer to the question. Nevertheless, in this rapidly changing world of today, I bet most Chinese cooks and chefs would have never dreamt of their authentic cuisine being finally followed and given attention by some serious foodies

from around the world, breaking the clichĂŠ of Chinese food being just "Chopsuey", "Kungpao", or greasy "Chinese Takeaway" in a box ending with "fortune cookies". This might have something to do with the economic uprising of China. On the other hand, in this modern world of ultra consumerism, food and drink has already become the hippest and hottest commodity. In search of tricks to stimulate the market's interest, restauranteurs and chefs have to look for new inspiration from time to time. Chinese Cuisine as the "oldest new thing" out there, might just be something they can put on a good use. That day I was visiting one of the only two 3 Michelin starred Chinese restaurants in the world (excluding "Bo Innovation" from Hong Kong, as it's more a modern fusion Chinese restaurant), "The Eight" Restaurant at Grand Lisboa Hotel, Macau, and had a chat with head chef Mr. AU Kwok Keung, on

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The wine cellar of "The Eight" is very impressive. Despite its extensive collection of precious Western wines, the very rare aged Moutai liquor is another highlight. When Chef Au was working at "Beijing Hotel", he already noticed that Moutai liquor as a good match to Cantonese dishes. This might be the reason why we see such an elaborated collection of this national liquor of China at "The Eight". 「8 餐廳」的名貴藏酒非比尋常。洋酒方面不在話下，難得陳年茅台的藏量亦非常有瞄頭。歐師傅在「北京飯店」工作時，已經發現茅台配粵菜的效果優良。因此在「8 餐廳」裏找到如此佳釀，其實一點也不足為奇。

today's Cantonese cuisine and the idea behind some of his creations at "The Eight". For those lucky few who've had the privilege to secure a table and to try Chef Au's exquisite work of food art, you must agree with me that the fineness from his cooking skill, his selection and combination of ingredient, as well as his creativity is just extraordinary. Modern Cantonese cookery by Chef Au is complex and composite technique-wise, but never intimidating like some of the Avantgarde cuisines found at overly aggressive

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restaurants. Chef Au's dishes are perfect exhibition of the finest quality of Cantonese Cuisine, refined and elegant, yet at the same time easy and enjoyable to the palate. There is one captivating characteristic of Chef Au's creations that makes his cuisine stand out; he is obviously pretty much fond of doing stack up layering with his food, and to me this is just as playful, amusing and stimulating as playing blocks for children. There is a dish called "Deep-fried Duck Fillet with Cristal Blue Shrimp Mousse" from the

menu of "The Eight". Just by looking at the name, one can only recognize two ingredients; but in fact it's built with five different layers of goodies. First, a crisped goose skin is being laid at the bottom (Chef uses goose skin instead of duck skin here for its much gamy aroma), then a layer of Cristal Blue Shrimp mousse on top of it, before layering the meat from duck fillet. Another layer of a mixture similar to tofu is being applied, right before the final deep-fried batter covering the top of the whole trunk. The result is an

言笑晏晏的歐國強師傅 The very articulate and sharp Chef AU Kwok Keung, Head Chef of "The Eight" Restaurant at Grand Lisboa Hotel, Macau.

The interior design of "The Eight" is themed with some traditional Chinese auspicious motifs. Chef Au's vision on modern Cantonese Cuisine isn't just confined to things on the dining table, a comfortable and elegant environment is just as important to a complete dining experience. Hong Kong based designer Mr. Alan Chan did a great job by making "The Eight" a classy and pleasant place to dine in, one of the motifs he used extensively is "goldfish", which you can see not only from the interior design, but also in some of the dishes. In fact, when looking close enough, you will discover a small goldfish embroidered on Chef AU's uniform.

歐師傅高瞻遠矚，他認為要令粵菜登上國際高端美食的舞台，除了食物本身質量上的水準，用餐環境也相當重要。「8 餐廳」的設計概念，由香港知名設計師陳幼堅先生操刀，當中用了許多傳統中國文化中代表祥瑞的意象，作為室內裝飾的主題；而「金魚」就是其中之一。

impeccable balance of different ingredients in terms of taste and texture, plus quite a mouthful of surprise to the diners. Just from this single dish, one can already observe Chef Au's meticulous and precise calculation on composing a complex dish, which is in fact achieved by countless trail and error in the kitchen. It might as well be this proficient and diligent calculation of his, eventually earns him the ever hard to get Michelin three star status. Chef Au had once worked at "The Beijing Hotel" in Beijing, China. From this working experience, he had his eyes opened to the most prestigious "National Banquet" standard Chinese Haute Cuisine, which is largely based

on Cantonese Cuisine and Huaiyang Cuisine. This might explain why you will find hints of Huaiyang cooking tripping through some of his Cantonese dishes, and the reason behind according to Chef Au, is to take Classic Cantonese Cuisine up a notch with delicate and sophisticated food cutting technique from Huaiyang Cuisine tradition. The outcome is new ideas regarding food styling and presentation, together with enhancement on food texture, which makes the already fine Cantonese dishes even finer. Another secret to Chef Au's success is the immense support from restaurant owner. This allows him to source his raw materials pretty much in a global scale, picking not only the best, but

the most suitable and interesting ingredient around the world, as building blocks for his never ending kitchen experiment. At the time when miso, lemongrass, Sichuan peppercorn and sake are being widely used in various modern European Cuisines, it makes good sense to introduce Cristal Blue Shrimp from Australia, Wagyu beef from Japan or foie gras from France to Cantonese cooking. If they are being used properly, but not just as a gimmick to draw in middling customers who could only follow trends rather then their own tastebuds, this international vision would sure be doing more good than harm to the development of modern Cantonese Cuisine.

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「原隻乳豬焗飯」 "Suckling Pig filled with Fried Rice and Preserved Meat"

「廣東式炒澳洲龍蝦」 "Stir-fried Australian lobster with egg, minced pork and black bean"

中國菜除了生於中國長於中國，它其實

擺盤裝設還是不同菜式的組合配搭呢？

究竟是甚麼？這個「它是甚麼」的問題，我想

這是一個不容易尋覓得到標準答案的

會去問的人應該不會太多。不去提問的原因相

問題。不過，在世界不斷地劇變的今天，許

信也不少，而且也不容易找到絕對的答案。其

多中國廚師也許沒有想像過，部份國際飲食

中一個原因，我看是因為飲食實在和我們中國

消費者會跳出一貫看中菜只有「kungpao」、

人的生活太過息息相關了。所謂「習以為常」，

「chopsuey」和「Chinese takeaway」的概念，

變成了常態之後，一切好像是理所當然甚至自

開始認真去嘗試「真」的中國菜。這種改變，

然而然的，所以也沒有人會對這等時刻在身旁

和今日中國的經濟在世界舞台上的新地位不無

發生的瑣事多作思考吧。

關係。國際社會好像終於「發現」中國和中國

我自己因為曾經在外地生活過，所以有一

文化依舊存活。此外，飲食在普世消費主導的

段時間，中國菜於我而言並不是理所當然的。

運行模式中，也變成了最炙手可熱的新興消費

在外地，你走入一家中國菜館，那怕是地道中

戰場，在尋覓新產品新噱頭這層面上，中菜也

國人主理的，做出來的飯菜和在老家吃的就是

許是還未被發掘和發展的「最古老的新點子」。

不同。我於香港長大，港式粵菜的味道，就是

中菜的世界其實博大精深；而在芸芸地方菜系

我從小到大最習慣的。在外國吃粵菜，同一個

中最容易入手和出手的，相信還是粵菜。

生炒排骨同一個菜遠炒牛肉，不知怎的就是

那天和世界上絕無僅有的二家米芝蓮

跟在香港吃的不一樣。久而久之，這個「不一

三星中菜廳之一（不包括創新風格的「 B o

樣」令我開始去想，究竟甚麼是「粵菜」這個

Innovation」），澳門新葡京酒店的「8 餐廳」主

問題。它只是一堆我們耳熟能詳的菜名？它是

廚歐國強師傅，談及廣東菜在世界飲食文化中

一套烹調技巧？是刀功、是調味、是食材，是

的位置，和他創作的菜色特色和理念何在。吃

MOUTAI Magazine

「羅漢布袋」 "Steamed Japanese Bean Curd Pocket filled with Imperial Fungus and Sea Mosses"

「藍天使蝦金魚餃」 "Steamed Cristal Blue Shrimp Dumplings in Goldfish Shape"

過歐師傅掌廚的 8 餐廳名菜的朋友，相信都會

蝦水晶香酥鴨」，用了有若鴨方的做法為基礎，

對師傅的出品在烹調技巧上、選材創意上和食

先在最底層放一片香脆的鵝皮，然後上面放藍

味質感上存下深刻印象。歐師傅的菜，容許小

天使蝦膠，上面放鴨肉，之後還有一層神秘的

弟不慚大言，可謂於精品粵菜清純細膩的基礎

材料，才最後在表面上脆漿做成炸皮。這多層

上，膽大而心細地迴旋於中式烹飪的固有習

不同的味道質地，經過多番試驗改良，做到各

慣，和今日現代化的庖廚技術之間，且樂意在

自精彩相互平衡，功力心思可謂爐火純青。而

框框的邊緣輕盈遊走，高瞻遠矚而又依舊腳踏

這種廚藝水平，也可能是米芝蓮何以願意賜予

實地。如此得來的效果，是在精密計算下頗為

比天上的明星還要難摘的珍貴三星的原因。

複雜地組合出來的嶄新菜餚；但菜餚的複雜性

歐師傅曾經在北京飯店工作，對國宴級

絕不形於色，而是巧妙地隱匿在完美糅合的味

的中國菜有實戰經驗。而國宴級菜餚，多含廣

道香氣和口感之下，和直接真摯的簡潔造型之

東菜及淮揚菜的菜色和技巧。歐師傅也把淮揚

內，令吃的人只有舌尖上的驚喜和驚奇，卻絲

菜的一些菁華，譬如刀功，加入 8 餐廳的粵菜

毫沒有面對高端艱澀的創作菜式所常有的無形

製作中，提升菜式的賣相，同時豐富食材口感

壓力。這完全秉承了粵菜清新靈活和精緻的傳

上的層次。此外，多得經營者的支持，在選

統特色，在合適的調味和烹調處理下，超額帶

料方面歐師傅可以盡量搜羅世界各地最優秀的

出主材料的最佳原味，更在旁邊恰到好處地加

食材，令他的創作得心應手。粵菜講究細緻地

入令人意想不到，但樂意享受的味感層次。吃

發揮食材的原味，用上環球食材不但能為粵菜

罷了，心中感覺無比的舒泰，洋溢的都是祥樂

開闢一片新天地，也令精品中菜更容易為國際

的意象，沒有負擔、只有釋懷。這委實是中國

食客們所理解。當現代法國菜也都幾乎已經自

飲食，乃至任何一種飲食類型，所應該能把食

由自在地運用清酒味噌川椒香茅等等外國材料

客帶進的一種高尚境界。

時，現代粵菜用上澳洲藍天使蝦日本和牛法國

歐師傅的作品，有許多都是以一種「層

鵝肝也是理所當然。只要用得有理用得恰當，

疊」的方式創作出來，有點像建築一樣，先有

而不是巧立名目來討好只愛趕潮流的客人的

一個想完成想達到的概念和效果，然後好像蓋

話，這種國際新視野對粵菜，乃至對其他中國

房子一般由地基開始建築。例如一道「藍天使

菜系的發展，只會有百利而無一害。

MOUTAI Magazine

A Golden Era in Liquor Bottle

黃金時代

酒瓶裡的

Text / 文：OldHou&Kangsheng TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

When Ng Chung (Wu Song) painted for Moutai for the first time in 2008, he did not have much confidence of success. For this simple and profound white glass bottle, the desire of creation came from an unexpected tasting. Moutai's complex and multilayered aroma gave him an unutterable experience. With an artist's intuition, he transformed this experience into a wonderful visual language and presented it on canvas. Ng Chung never considers himself a still life painter. When he breaks through tradition and presents the liquor bottles ignored by other people in the perspective of portraits, liquor bottles are destined to become his most vivid portraits. 2008 年第一次畫茅台，吳松並無太大把握。面對這個簡潔而厚重的白色玻璃瓶，創作欲望來源於一次意外的試飲，茅台酒複雜而充滿層次的香味帶給他難以言行的體驗，憑藉藝術家的直覺，他將此轉化為美妙的視覺語言並呈現於畫布。吳松從不認為自己是個靜物畫家，當他突破傳統，把不為人關注的酒瓶以人物畫的尺度去呈現，酒瓶註定也是他關於自己的最生動的肖像。

MOUTAI Magazine

"Red & Black",Oil Paintings, 90 x 120cm, 2012 《紅與黑》布面油畫 90 × 120cm 2012 年

ooking out of the studio window, all you can see are dense buildings. Through the narrow gap between buildings, the most intuitive view you can see is overlapped giant logos of various commercial banks and multinational enterprises. Artist Ng Chung's studio is hidden in this bustling financial center of Hong Kong — Central. It is not easy to explore one's own artistic world in Central where land is as precious as gold, but nothing seems particular for Ng Chung. He believes that art is inevitably connected to an artist's own mind and he is used to excavating materials from his mind. The best way to understand an artist is to understand his choice of lifestyle.

Chung seems to have mastered another language of communicating with the world. Drinking has become an indispensable lifestyle of Ng Chung. Just like a medium full of inspiration, the flowed liquor is transmitted between the bottle and him. In a dreamy and lonely state, he interacts with the bottle. Naturally, the bottle becomes his creation target and is closely linked with his personal living. "Liquor is indispensable in my sunset life as well as my creation, and has become a habit. As a creator and needing some stimulus, I choose liquor." In the afternoon of his studio, Ng Chung greedily enjoys the comfort brought by fine liquor. For him, liquor is a spiritual home, a language, and a part of the job.

Another Language

Another Portrait

The themes of Ng Chung's creations are mostly related to liquor bottles. The themes of his life are mostly related to spirits as well. Ng Chung chooses Central for his studio only because he likes the bars here and he can find inner peace in such hustle and bustle. Lan Kwai Fong is just several hundred meters away from Ng Chung's studio and he is a frequent visitor there. In Hong Kong, an international and fast-paced city, the only reason for people to visit Lan Kwai Fong is to relax. After resigning from public office, Ng Chung alone, as a newcomer to Hong Kong, threw himself into the crowd of different colors in Lan Kwai Fong. He neither spoke English nor knew these people; however, not too much language was needed here. Alcohol was soft, made exchanges easier, and helped unrelated people become friends. "Liquor, probably is an international language!" Half drunk, Ng

Throughout Ng Chung's works, colors are simple and restrained. They are not wanton graffiti under drunkenness. The colors of black, white, and red are pure and clear, and stably form a carefully arranged mood, demonstrating an inherent order. This reflects an outstanding artist's self-control of striking a perfect balance between sense and sensibility, and extracting the part that captures people's minds from his thoughts. Ng Chung thinks that works are the same with being a man. Simpler is better and complexity exhausts people. A simple picture will be purer and more enjoyable. Due to cultural differences, each kind of bottle in the world has its distinctive shape. In the eyes of a lonely drinker, each of them has its own rich expression. What correspond to these expressions are different moods of the artist at different moments of drunkenness. Each of Ng Chung's works takes about six months. Accompanied

MOUTAI Magazine

Moutai bottle in the creation (partial)

with mood swings, each of his works involves affirmations, negations, as well as various modifications and overwriting. The entire process is like a tough self-exploration. The worlds of life and creation always involve creativity and contingency. Perhaps only the artist himself knows when to conclude a long and lasting mood. For over 10 years, Ng Chung has patiently painted various bottles, but what he paints seems much more than a bottle itself. When fine liquors nourish his life just like blood and comfort his loneliness, his body surely becomes the most touching life container dedicated to liquors. Therefore, Ng Chung never considers himself a still life painter. Involved in every aspect of Ng Chung, liquor bottles are his most vivid portraits. In recent years, Moutai's signature white glass bottle appears in Ng Chung's created paintings more and more frequently. When Ng Chung painted for Moutai for the first time in 2008, he did not have much confidence of success. For this simple and profound white glass bottle, the desire of creation came from an unexpected tasting. Moutai's complex and multilayered aroma gave him an unutterable experience. With an artist's intuition, he transformed this experience into a wonderful visual language and presented it on canvas. Ng Chung says: "I love wine, but I love Moutai better because it makes my life fuller and happier." In his subsequent creations, there is a natural tacit understanding between his body and this spirits made of grains, and his inspiration needs to be ignited by it.

Another Kind of Life For most people, the appearances we are becoming are the appearances in the eyes of others, which are all shaped by the social environment. There are always some people, however, trying their best

創作中的茅台酒瓶（局部）

to get rid of the invisible shackles, and striving to become the people they are willing to be in their minds. Therefore, Ng Chung is shaping himself rather then shaping liquor bottles. For nearly 20 years since Ng Chung came to Hong Kong in 1996, with a military origin and just like a soldier, he has stuck to his spiritual territory, ensured the strong growth of his art in the commercial jungle, and lived a free life of painting and drinking freely. For today's favor from the auction market and appreciation from collectors, Ng Chung seems leisurely and calm. "What I need to do is to create satisfactory paintings." Ng Chung says: "I still decide to focus on the liquor bottle until I entrust all my history to it. I don't know which the ending day is." Everyone has his own life truth. To choose one means to give up another. As a drifter through life, writer Xiao Hong declared, "I can't choose how to be born, or how to die, but I can choose how to love, how to live, and this is my golden era." For all people, life is continuously pushed forwards by one after another choice. For artists, sometimes the choice is often much more decisive and incomprehensible. Ng Chung, in a confused era, chooses to resign from public office and become an artist. In the bustling commercial center, he chooses to stick to the lonely and quiet painting and stick to the pureness of painting in the contemporary art whirlpool whose main theme is stunning and exciting. Some choices may have no alternative and some choices are unintentional; however, it is all these intertwined choices that form Ng Chung's current life and creation. Ng Chung says: "As an individual artist, I live in the best era. Create, stare blankly, drink, create, and stare blankly...Follow my heart and repeat this simple process every day. I am enjoying the freedom of this life very much." For every person who dares to choose his own way of life, this is surely his golden era.

MOUTAI Magazine

"Bottle-701",Oil Paintings, 170 × 150cm 2007-2008 《瓶子 -701》布面油畫 170 × 150cm 2007-2008 年

从工作室窗口望出去，盡是密密麻麻的樓宇，透過樓宇間狹小的

己在喧鬧中尋找內心的安靜。

縫隙，能看見的最直觀的景象便是各種商業銀行及跨國企業層疊的巨型

從工作室到蘭桂坊只有幾百米，吳松是那裡的常客。在香港這個國

LOGO。藝術家吳松的工作室就隱藏於此，繁華香港的金融中心——中

際化、快節奏的城市，人們到蘭桂坊的唯一理由就是放鬆。辭去公職初

環。

來香港，孤獨的吳松把自己扔在蘭桂坊不同膚色的人群裡。儘管不會英在寸土寸金的中環開拓屬於自己的藝術疆域並不容易，但這一切在

吳松看來並無特別，他認為藝術跟藝術家自身內在存在必然聯繫，他習慣向內心挖掘素材。了解一個藝術家最好的方式，便是去理解他對生活方式的選擇。

語，相互也不認識，但在這裡也無需過多語言，酒精是柔軟的，可以讓交流變得簡單，讓互不相干的人們成為朋友。「酒，大概是一種國際語言吧！」半醉半醒間，吳松仿佛掌握了另一種與世界溝通的語言。喝酒成為吳松不可或缺的生活方式。流淌的酒液像充滿靈感的媒介，

另一種語言吳松創作的主題大多與酒瓶有關，而吳松生活的主題，也大都與酒有關。吳松說，選擇在中環做工作室，只是喜歡這裡街區的酒吧，讓自

MOUTAI Magazine

在酒瓶與吳松的身體之間轉換，在迷糊及孤獨的狀態下，吳松與酒瓶產生了對話，酒瓶自然而然的成為創作對象，並與個人生活緊緊聯繫在一起。「酒在我的夕陽生活與創作中是必然的，成為習慣。作為創作者，我

"China Moutai",Oil Paintings, 100 x 80cm, 2010 《國酒 - 茅台》布面油畫 100 × 80cm 2010 年

"China Moutai",Oil Paintings, 180 x 160cm, 2009 《國酒 - 茅台》布面油畫 180 × 160cm 2009 年

需要某種刺激物，我選擇了酒。」在工作室的下午，吳松貪婪的享受著美酒帶給他的慰籍，對他來說，酒是寄託，是語言，是工作的一部分。

"China Moutai",Oil Paintings, 110 x 80cm, 2008 《國酒 - 茅台》布面油畫 110 × 80cm 2008 年

另一種生活對大部分人而言，我們現在所成為的自己，不過是環境塑造的別人

另一種肖像

眼中的自己；但總有一些人，他們極力的擺脫隱形的束縛，努力成為他內心想要成為的樣子，與其說吳松是在塑造酒瓶不如說也是在塑造自己。

吳松的作品，顏色簡單而克制，並非醉態下的恣意塗鴉。黑色、白

從 1996 年來香港，近 20 年間，軍人出身的吳松像戰士一樣堅守自

色、紅色，單純明了，穩定的構成像精心梳理過的情緒，顯示出一種內

己的精神領地，讓藝術在商業叢林中頑強的生長，並過上了自由畫畫自

在的秩序。這是一個優秀艺術家控制力的體現，在理性與感性中找到完

在喝酒的自如生活。對於如今拍賣市場的追捧以及收藏家的認可，吳松

美的平衡，提煉出直指人心的部分。吳松認為，作品與做人一樣，越簡

顯得從容而淡定，「我只管畫好畫就是了。」吳松說，「我仍然決定必須

單越好，複雜讓人累，簡單的畫面更純粹，讓人享受。

抓住酒瓶不放，直至把我的全部歷史都交給它，我不知道哪一天是個結

由於文化差異，世界上的每一種酒瓶，都有各自不同的造型，但在孤獨的飲者眼裡，它們還有各自豐富的表情，對應這種表情的，便是每一刻醉態下藝術家不同的心情。

束。」每個人都有自己的生活真理，你選擇了一種，就意味著要放棄另一種。漂泊一生的作家蕭紅說：「我不能選擇怎麼生怎麼死，但我能選擇怎

吳松完成一張作品大概需要半年左右，伴隨著情緒的波動，總要經

麼愛怎麼活，這就是我的黃金時代。」對於每個人，我們經歷的一生，都

歷肯定、否定，各種修改及覆蓋，整個過程就像是一次艱難的自我尋找。

是由一個又一個不斷疊加的選擇向前推進。對於藝術家而言，有時候這

生活世界和創作世界永遠存在於創造性和偶然性之中，何時該為這綿延

種選擇往往來得更為決絕並不被理解。

已久的某種情緒落款，或許只有藝術家自己知道。

吳松，在迷茫的時代選擇辭去公職成為一個藝術家，在繁华的商業

十多年來，吳松不厭其煩地畫著各種各樣的酒瓶，但又好像不僅僅

中心選擇守望孤獨安靜的畫畫，在以驚豔刺激為主旋律的當代藝術漩渦

是酒瓶本身。當美酒如同血液一樣滋養著他的生活，撫慰著他的孤獨，

中選擇堅守繪畫的純粹。有些選擇可能是別無選擇，有些選擇是無意選

他的身體何嘗不是獻給美酒的最動人的生命容器 ? 所以吳松從不認為自己

擇，但正是這些選擇，交織構成了吳松當下的生活與創作。

是個靜物畫家，酒瓶凝聚了他的一切，酒瓶也是他關於自己的最生動的肖像。近年來，吳松創作的畫面中，越來越多的出現了茅台標誌性的白色玻璃瓶。2008 年第一次畫茅台，吳松並無太大把握。面對這個簡潔而厚

吳松說：「作為個體藝術家，我生活在最好的時代。創作、發呆、飲酒、創作、發呆⋯⋯隨心隨意，每天重複著簡單的過程，我很享受這種生活的自由。」對每個敢於選擇自己生活方式的人來說，這何嘗不是他的黃金時代。

重的白色玻璃瓶，創作欲望來源於一次意外的試飲，茅台複雜而充滿層次的香味帶給他難以言行的體驗，憑藉藝術家的直覺，他將此轉化為美妙的視覺語言並呈現於畫布。吳松說：「我喜歡紅酒，更愛茅台，它讓我的生命更充實，更快感。」在之後的創作中，這種谷物釀造的烈酒，自然而然的與吳松的身體達成某種默契，他的靈感需要用它來點燃。

"Art Gallery on Paper" 「紙上藝廊」聯系我們的藝術購買顧問即可擁有屬於你的藝術珍藏 Contact our art purchase consultant to have your own art collection Tel: (852) 3580 2591 Email: artwork@everreliable.net

MOUTAI Magazine

Exclusive Coverage 獨家報道

Give-andTake in the Name of

Jazz

——Legendary Bassist Eddie Gomez Touring With Asia's Rising Stars

以爵士樂的名義給予和獲取傳奇低音大提琴手 Eddie Gomez 與亞洲後起之秀的音樂之旅 TEXT/ 文 : Bojue Hou IMAGE/ 圖：鐵花兒 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

MOUTAI Magazine

e sat down loosening the collar, opened his handbag for some cologne, and took a sip of vodka on the rock. The late October night in Shenzhen was by no means chilly, while for the 70-year-old Puerto Rican double bassist, the tremendous heat from unceasing applause and shouts for encore was still lasting. Edgar "Eddie" Gomez revisited OCT-LOFT with nearly 100 minutes of cutting-edge jazz music along Teriver Cheung, the guitarist, Li Xiaochuan, the trumpeter, and Billy Drummond, the drummer. The performance featured a couple of jazz standards, the quartet's recent interpretation of classics, as well as each of Gomez's, Cheung's and Li's original compositions. In particular, the team experimented with a tango-fused version of the trumpeter's melancholic tunes, adding some light color to what they have played two years ago in the same live house. Gomez's also joked with Li's music title "us", pretending that it referred to everybody on the stage and in the audience as whole. However, the latter explained in Chinese that the old Puerto Rican knew nothing about it at all窶馬o room for a third person in the love

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song. Laughter was shared by the mixed audience at OCT. "It is the second time in three years we've come to this city, and we very enjoy giving performances here," said the two-time Grammy Award winner at Old Heaven Books, a bookstore-cafﾃｩ that co-harbors artists and performances with the B-10 Live auditorium, "We are happy to work together and bring good jazz music to the world." Gomez was very satisfied with this quintet, if including the Swedish pianist Stefan Karlsson, who was catching up their later performances in Taiwan. Speaking five native languages, varying considerably in ages and races, the group had been touring nevertheless constantly on international stages since 2011, and they had made recordings. Speaking about the genesis of the collaboration, Gomez shifted back to October, 2011, at the University of North Texas. Li and Cheung were pursuing degrees at the world's leading institution for jazz music, while Gomez was giving a master class there. They met at Karlsson's office where Li, native to Shanghai, raised the idea of forming this multi-background quintet and giving tours in Asia. "Li said let's do something, and we got quickly agreed," said

Gomez, who had already conceptualized this kind of project, "For me it's a great opportunity to explore new possibilities and perform for different audiences, and for Teriver and Xiaochuan I think it's good to bring good things you've learned in a foreign country back to your native lands." "Do you agree with it, Teriver?" He pointed to Cheung, who said that it was a "give-and-take", just like the musician's sharing of each other's knowledge, resources and styles. Toasting a glass of Merlot with Drummond the drummer, the guitarist added that the two first met during a group session of a master class, even before the allimportant office meeting. But Gomez only remembered that the Hongkonger (Teriver) was one of the most outstanding students. Although having initiated the program personally, Li wrote on his official website that he was "chosen" by the legendary bassist. Similarly, Cheung mentioned the jazz master and the tours in the first sentence of his bio. However, Gomez seemed fairly neutral on nationalities and cultural backgrounds, but he focused instead on talent and style for professional collaboration. He said, "I see them

only as jazz musicians with great ability." For Gomez, the basis of teaming-up with the two Asian young musicians was also their education. "They know the tradition and history of jazz music, they can use the language of jazz, and they have good skills," he said, "and most importantly, they know to listen." The bassist recalled the time when he was playing along Miles Davies, one of the most influential musicians of the 20th century, and to whom he dedicated an interpretation of the latter's "Solar". His ability "to listen" was the key quality that helped him to learn the most from the great figure of jazz music. Several decades later, Gomez now switched to the leader's position, and he was still valuing the effort to balance self-expression and teamwork. "Team sport is my metaphor for a lot of things: For sports, for theater, and for life, you need to pay attention to others and sometimes let new ideas to refresh yourself," said Gomez, "Xiaochuan has a unique sound, Teriver also has his own beautiful style, and it's a nice give-and-take that we work together."

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他坐了下來，鬆開衣領，打開他的手提包，

演繹為一個融合探戈舞曲的新版本。同一個地

Gomez 對此次演出感到非常滿意，不過

找出古龍水，整理好後，端起伏特加喝了一口。

方，同一首曲子，再次聆聽，帶來了新的聽覺

如果加上瑞典鋼琴家 Stefan Karlsson 構成五

享受。

重奏就更完美了，可惜要等到稍後的台灣之行

南中國的深圳 10 月下旬的夜晚一點都不冷，對於這位 70 歲的波多黎各低音大提琴手

Gomez 還開玩笑說，李曉川的唱片名

中 Stefan Karlsson 才能加入演出。儘管團隊

來說，持久的掌聲以及「再來一次」的呼喊帶

「US( 我們 )」說的好像是指台上的每個人和

成員來自不同的國度，說著 5 種不同的母語，

來的巨大熱量還在持續。這次 Eddie Gomez

台下所有的觀眾。而李曉川則用中文解釋道：

年齡和種族差別也很大，但並不妨礙他們對音

再次造訪深圳華僑城創意文化園給大家帶來了

「這位老波多黎各人對這真是一無所知——在

樂的喜愛，這個團隊自 2011 年以來就不斷地

近百分鐘的前沿爵士音樂，與他一起演出的還

情歌裏容不下第三者。」這句話引得觀眾哄堂

在世界各地巡演並且錄製了不少唱片。

有吉他手 Teriver Cheung，小號手李曉川，鼓

大笑。

手 Billy Drummond。

談到組隊的起源，Gomez 回憶起了 2011

「這是我們三年內第二次來到這個城市，

年 10 月還在北德州大學讀書的時候。當時，

這次的演出包括兩個方面，一是四重奏對

我們很喜歡在這裏表演」，這位兩屆格萊美

李曉川和 Cheung 正在這所世界著名的爵士音

經典曲目的最新演繹，二是 Gomez、Cheung

獎得主 Gomez 在書店咖啡館 Old Heaven

樂大學攻讀學位，而 Gomez 則在給一個碩士

和李曉川各自的原創作品。值得一提的是，兩

Books 裏說，這家咖啡館和 B-10 現場會堂都

班上課。他們在 Karlsson 的辦公室見面，原

年前曾在這個地方演奏過的一首小號的憂傷曲

是藝術家和表演者演出的地方。「我們很高興

籍上海的李曉川提出了組建這個多背景五重奏

調，在此次演出中，給人以耳目一新的感覺，

能攜手合作，給世界帶來美妙的爵士音樂。」

樂隊的想法，並提出進行亞洲巡演。

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「李曉川說大家一起合作做點什麼吧，我

川在他的官方網站卻寫到自己是被這位傳奇

Davies 這位偉大的爵士音樂家那裏學到了很

們很快就同意了」，Gomez 說。其實，他早

的低音大提琴手「選中 ( 欽點 )」的。同樣，

多東西。他對 Miles Davies 的曲目 Solar 的演

就想做這樣一個事情了，「對我來說這是一個

Cheung 也在他的個人簡介的第一句話提到這

繹就是對 Miles Davies 的一種致敬。數十年後，

很好的機會，可以探索新的可能性，為不同的

位爵士大師和他的旅程。然而，Gomez 似乎

如今的 Gomez 已然成為爵士樂的領袖人物，

觀眾演出。而對於 Cheung 和李曉川而言，我

對民族和文化背景並不在意，他關注的是專業

但他仍然努力在自我表達和團隊合作之間取得

認為把你們從國外學到的東西帶到你們的家鄉

協作所需要的天賦和風格。他說，「我只知道

平衡。

也是極好的。你認同嗎，Cheung ？」他指著

他們都是非凡的爵士音樂家。」

Cheung 說。

「團隊運動是我對很多事情的一個比喻：

對於 Gomez 來說，與這兩個亞洲青年音

對於體育運動，戲劇和生活來說，你需要關注

樂家組隊的原因在於他們受到的教育。「他們

別人，有時需要讓新的想法帶給自己活力。」

就像音樂家分享彼此的知識、資源和風格。

瞭解爵士音樂的傳統和歷史，他們可以使用爵

Gomez 說，「李曉川有一個獨特的聲音，

吉他手 Cheung 向鼓手 Drummond 敬了杯

士樂的語言，並且有很好的技能。」他說，「最

Cheung 也有自己極好的風格，我們攜手合作

Merlot 酒，補充道：「他們兩個的初次見面是

重要的是，他們懂得聽。」

是一個很好的給予和獲取的過程。」

Cheung 認為，這是一種「給予和獲取」，

在一次課堂上。而 Gomez 則只記得 Cheung 這個香港人是最優秀的學生之一。」雖然是自己創建了這個樂隊，不過李曉

這位低音大提琴手回憶起和 20 世紀最有影響力的音樂家之一 Miles Davies 同台演奏的時光，他的「傾聽」能力幫助他從 Miles

MOUTAI Magazine

Oriental Fine Liquor,

A Superior Choice 東方佳釀卓越之選

TEXT/ 文：盧川 Dora Lu EDITING/ 編輯：Laura Su TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Billy Yung

MOUTAI Magazine

This is a special distilled liquor using sorghum and wheat as main raw materials. Inheriting the ancient making technique and following the brewing philosophy of learning from nature, the liquor masters make the pure, transparent, and intoxicating nectar that has a strong fragrance and long aftertaste. 這是一種以糧食穀物為主要原料的特殊蒸餾酒，傳承了古老工藝的酒師們，崇尚順應自然的釀酒哲學，釀造出純淨透明、芳香馥郁、回味悠長的佳釀，令世人為之傾心。

weichow Moutai is the typical representative of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor, and "China Moutai" has become the synonym of Chinese liquor. Kweichow Moutai presents perfect products in different series. Each type of Moutai shows its unique personality and distinctive style, and waits for the encounter with the people who appreciate them.

Common Moutai Series, a Classic of Classics As a classic of classics, the Common Moutai series have two specifications: 53% Vol and 43% Vol, of which the 53% Vol Feitian Moutai is the leading product of Moutai and a classic of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor. Featuring slightly yellow, transparent, prominent Jiang fragrance, elegant, delicate, mellow, long aftertaste, and lasting empty-cup fragrance, the 53% Vol Feitian Moutai has garnered many international awards. This liquor has several topmost features: no hangover or dry mouthfeel after drinking; the older, the better aroma; its quality will be more outstanding if further preserved for several years and its aroma gets stronger and stronger over the years.

Millesimes Moutai Series, TopClass and Precious Liquor Aged Moutai liquor of specific years uses a liquor aged at least 15 years as base, which is then blended with liquors made in different

years (strictly selected by liquor-making masters), with different stages, fragrance types, and liquor types to produce different classes of aged Moutai liquor with a rich mouthfeel. Generally speaking, according to age and quality, the aged Moutai liquor can be categorized into four classes: 15-year, 30-year, 50-year, and 80-year. Outstanding Chinese art and craft masters use traditional ethnic crafts such as Chinese wood engraving, purple clay, and ceramics to create gorgeous bottles and boxes with Oriental classical beauty. Each type of Millesimes Moutai shows its distinctive artistic value. 80-Year Millesimes Moutai – distinguished masterpiece derived from time and the best of precious Moutai. This top-class and precious liquor has a light golden hue as well as a shining and clear luster. With subtle notes, you can smell the rich, delicate, subtle, and aged Jiang fragrance together with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. Carefully savor it and you can feel silky smoothness and mellowness with lingering sweetness full of the mouth. 50-Year Millesimes Moutai – a semicenturial precious liquor with pure and unique taste. This liquor has a light golden hue, a clear luster as well as the fragrant, pleasant and aged Jiang fragrance mixed with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. With the same alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor is full and smooth, with strong and unique aftertaste. 30-Year Millesimes Moutai – a perfect combination of grains and seasonal flavors to

offer both charms of years and times. With clear layers, the rich, mild, and aged Jiang fragrance is mixed with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. It has a mellow and smooth mouthfeel as well as a long-lasting, round, and sweet aftertaste. 15-Year Millesimes Moutai – a gorgeous demonstration of classical Oriental style through elegant aroma as well as subtly blended and extraordinary temperament. This liquor has a light golden hue as well as the classical and aged Jiang fragrance mixed with strong baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. With a classical alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor is mellow, smooth, strong, and powerful.

Gift Moutai Series, Small-Batch Blending With individuality, the Gift Moutai series are the result of careful and small-batch blending of strictly selected base liquors with different ages, stages, fragrance types, and liquor types. Packed in different bottles and boxes, each type of Gift Moutai shows its distinctive temperament and unique attitude to life; however, all of them share the common features of Chinese culture and are very suitable for you to collect as well as carefully savor and appreciate with your friends and family. Luxury Gold and Luxury Brown Moutai – selected and blended by maestros, two tastes in one liquor for you to enjoy the exquisite life. Slightly yellow, transparent, and clear,

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this liquor features prominent Jiang fragrance, with delicate and rich aromas of baking, flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, and koji. With a high alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor still tastes mellow, elegant, mild, and smooth. It is suitable for collecting as well as drinking straightly or being paired with dishes on special occasions. Purple Clay Paper Precious Moutai – a born collection superior to the drinking standard. Slightly yellow, transparent, and clear, this liquor features strong Jiang fragrance, and rich layers of such aromas as flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, dried plants, and sourness. With a mellow, smooth, delicate, and changeable mouthfeel, this liquor is suitable for collecting and drinking straightly on special occasions. Relievo Wood Precious Moutai – several years' concentration and combination of elegance and strength, a nectar for master collector. Slightly yellow, transparent, and clear, this liquor features strong Jiang fragrance, and rich layers of such aromas as baking, plants, and grains. It tastes mellow, smooth, delicate, and changeable. With a unique shape, the Moutai Collection liquor is slightly yellow, transparent, pure, and clear. Featuring rich Jiang fragrance mixed with such aromas as baking, flowers, fruit, dried plants, and sourness, this liquor has a smooth, mild, elegant, and sweet mouthfeel. Jackie Chan Moutai, Collector's Edition – perfect example of combining the Chinese

The Moutai Flavor series share the same origin with common Moutai liquor, inherit the most traditional and authentic taste and spirit, absorb the fashion inspiration of the times, involve diversified values (concepts), and lead a new lifestyle. They are a series of young products with diversified appearances and consistently excellent quality. To ensure the excellent quality of the brand, quality control is strictly carried out for each type of liquor. Besides the consistently excellence quality of Kweichow Moutai, the entire series also have a distinct personality and rich taste, and provide more savoring choices. The Han Jiang liquor launched in recent years is reputed as "a classic of the Jiang Family". With brand-new alcohol content for distinctive experience, this liquor is slightly yellow, transparent, pure, and clear, and features prominent Jiang fragrance together with such delicate aromas as baking, plants,

and grains. With a comfortable and mild mouthfeel as well as long aftertaste, this liquor can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails. Ren (Benevolence) liquor – classical Oriental temperament, mellow liquor style, as well as strong and lingering aroma, for conquering young taste buds. With a slightly yellow, transparent, pure, and clear hue as well as a classical alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor features prominent Jiang fragrance mixed with such aromas as flowers, grass, fruit, and sourness. With an elegant, comfortable, refreshing, and pleasant mouthfeel, this liquor can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails. Among Moutai's traditional products, the Moutai Prince liquor is called a prince of liquor. Colorless, transparent, clear, and pure in appearance and with an alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor features rich Jiang fragrance and complex aroma. With a mild, delicate, refreshing, and pleasant mouthfeel, this liquor can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails. Moutai Ying Bin liquor is the favorite choice of people for entertaining guests in banquets. This liquor is colorless, transparent, clear, and pure, and features mild Jiang fragrance and elegant complex aroma. Although with a high alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor has a fresh, sweet, refreshing, and pleasant mouthfeel, and can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails.

美的酒瓶及外盒，每一款都獨具藝術價值。

liquor culture with the spirit of worldrenowned Chinese movie star Jackie Chan. With a light golden, pure, and clear hue as well as a alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor features natural Jiang fragrance mixed with aromas of flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, dried plants, and sourness. With a mellow, solid, delicate, and mild mouthfeel, this liquor is suitable for collecting and drinking straightly on special occasions.

Moutai Flavor Series, a Blend of Tradition and Fashion

貴州茅台酒是中國白酒的典型代表，

的特質是飲後不上頭、不口乾，越陳越香，貯

China Moutai 甚至被等同於中國白酒的代名

藏數年後酒質更加出眾，因歲月而更增馥郁芬

詞。貴州茅台酒擁有不同系列的完美產品，每

芳。

一款都具有獨特的個性，擁有不同風格，期待與最合適的人相遇。

普通茅台酒系列经典中的经典

80 年陳年茅台酒，尊貴的極品之作，以時光釀造，是名貴級別茅台中的佼佼者。這款極品佳釀呈現淺金色，閃耀著晶瑩的光澤；細

陳年茅台酒系列极品佳釀特定年份的陳年茅台酒系列，以不低於 15 年酒齡的老酒為基酒，再與釀酒大師嚴選

嗅之下，有著飽滿而極為細膩的含蓄醬香陳香，並帶有焙烤香、堅果香、煙熏香；細細品之，如絲綢般柔順，醇厚圓潤，令口腔充滿綿長的甘甜。

作為經典中的经典，普通茅台酒系列分

出的不同年齡、不同輪次、不同香型、不同典

50 年陳年茅台酒可謂半個世紀的珍釀佳

為 53%Vol 及 43%Vol 兩個品種，其中 53%Vol

型酒體的原酒相勾調，釀制出口感豐富、不

品，口感純正，為人帶來獨特的品嘗體驗。擁

飛天茅台酒是貴州茅台的主導產品。微黃透明

同等級的陳年茅台酒，依據酒齡和酒質劃分為

有淺金色，清澈晶瑩的色澤，馥郁、宜人的醬

外觀下，醬香突出，幽雅細膩，酒體醇厚，回

80 年、50 年、30 年和 15 年四種等級。傑出的

香陳香中渲染焙烤香、堅果香、煙熏香；同樣

味悠長，空杯留香持久，是中國醬香型白酒的

中國工藝美術大師，運用中國木刻、紫砂、陶

53%Vol 的酒度，依然豐滿潤滑，餘味雄勁而

經典之作，多次榮膺國際大獎。這款酒品最大

瓷等傳統民族工藝，打造華美而具有東方古典

獨特。

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30 年陳年茅台酒，完美結合飽滿的穀物

紫砂紙珍茅台在誕生之初就超越了飲用的

品。為了達到品牌優質的保證，每款佳釀均嚴

與輪回的四季味道，令人盡享歲月與時代的雙

標準，它天生具有收藏的品質。微黃透明，晶

格把關，使整個系列保持貴州茅台的卓越品質

重韻味。在層次分明，豐富柔和的醬香陳香中

瑩通透，醬香濃郁，花香、青草香、果香、甜

的同時，擁有鮮明的個性和豐富的口感，為人

渲染焙烤香、堅果香、煙熏香，口感醇厚柔

香、乾植物香、酸香等層次分明，醇和綿滑，

們的品飲時光提供更多的選擇。

順，餘味甘甜，回味豐潤而悠長。

細膩多變，適於特別場合淨飲、收藏。

近年推出的漢醬酒，被譽為「醬門典範」。

15 年陳年茅台酒，以優雅芬芳、微妙糅

浮雕木珍茅台，結合優雅和力量的數年

它以全新的 51%Vol 酒精濃度，帶來與眾不同

合的非凡氣質，華麗呈現東方佳釀的經典格

沉澱，大師級臻藏佳釀。她微黃透明，晶瑩通

的體驗。微黃透明，純淨清澈的外觀，醬香突

調。淺金色的外觀，經典的醬香陳香中融合濃

透，醬香濃郁，焙烤香、植物香、糧香等層次

出，細膩呈現焙烤香、植物香、糧香等；舒適

郁的焙烤香、堅果香、煙熏香；53%Vol 的經

分明；品之，同樣醇和綿滑，細膩多變。

柔和、回味悠長，適合淨飲、配餐或調製為雞

典酒度，醇厚潤滑，勁道十足。

禮盒茅台酒系列小批量勾調

造型獨特的貴州茅台典藏酒外觀微黃透

尾酒。

明，純淨清澈；醬香飽滿，混合焙烤香、花

造型古典的，以東方氣質取胜的仁酒，用

香、果香、乾植物香、酸香等，柔滑溫順，優

醇和的酒體風格，馥郁而綿長的芳香，征服年

雅回甜。

輕的味蕾。她微黃透明，純淨清澈，經典的

禮盒茅台酒系列，臻選不同年齡、不同輪

貴州茅台成龍珍藏版，則是中國酒文化與

53%Vol，醬香顯著，渲染花香、青草香、果

次、不同香型、不同典型酒體的茅台原酒，小

華人國際巨星成龍先生的精神品質相結合的完

香、酸香等，優雅舒適，提神怡人，淨飲、配

批量精心勾調出獨具個性的佳釀。同時，每一

美典範。外觀淺金黃色，純淨清澈，53%Vol

餐或調製為雞尾酒。

款的酒瓶與酒盒，面貌各異，呈現出不同的氣

的度數，天然醬香中纏繞花香、青草香、果

茅台系列酒的傳統產品茅台王子酒，被

質，表明各自的生活態度，卻同時具有中國文

香、甜香、乾植物香、酸香，圓潤堅實，細膩

人成為酒中王子，酒體無色透明，清澈純粹，

化的共同特徵，尤其適合與您的好友、親人一

綿柔，適合於特別場合淨飲、收藏。

53%Vol 的酒度，醬香飽滿，複合香豐富，柔和細膩，清新怡人，適合淨飲、配餐或調製為

起細心品評、欣賞與收藏。豪華金、豪華絳茅台酒，以大師級臻選勾調，一款佳釀，兩味蘊藏，盡享精緻生活。微

茅台醬香系列酒傳統與時尚的交融

雞尾酒。而茅台迎賓酒，則是人們宴會的至愛選

黃透明，晶瑩通透，醬香突出，焙烤香、青

貴州茅台醬香系列酒與茅台酒一脈相承，

擇，待客佳品。無色透明，清澈純粹，醬香柔

草香、果香、甜香、曲香等細膩豐富；有著

傳承最傳統、最正宗的口感和精神，汲取時代

和、複合香淡雅，雖為 53%Vol，但清爽甘冽，

53%Vol 的濃烈，但仍然醇厚幽雅，柔和潤滑，

風尚的靈感，融入更多元化的價值觀，創領潮

提神怡人，適合淨飲、配餐或調製為雞尾酒。

適合特別場合淨飲或配餐、收藏。

流，是一系列面貌多樣而品質如一的年輕產

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A Happier Journey Than a

King 比國王還幸福的旅程 TEXT/ 文：Cheung Kam-moon IMAGE/ 圖：Belmond La Residence Phou Vao TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

I have stayed at many luxurious hotels in Europe, the Americas, Japan, China, India, and Egypt, and have forgotten almost all of them, but I will never forget the luxurious hotel I have stayed in Luang Prabang, Laos. 歐美亞日本中國印度埃及奢華酒店我住過不少，但都已忘記九成，只有在老檛 Luang Prabang（瑯勃拉邦）所住過的奢華酒店，我卻終身難忘。

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he manners of Belmond Group specialized in luxurious travel are completely different and belong to another kind of culture. Belmond Group operates 45 projects in 22 countries, including inland river cruises (12-night Chindwin River tour in Myanmar, 10-night Aveyarwady River tour in Myanmar, and Burgundy tour in France) and legendary Oriental Express trips (luxurious train travels with different routes such as Asia, Europe, Africa, and South America, lasting 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3 days or some ten days). This may help us to reach a higher level of luxurious travel and understand the tastes of life. With twenty top hotels in unimaginable locations such as Taorimira, Portfino, Amalfi Coast, Sacred Valley, Cusco, St. Martin, St. Michael, Charleston, San Miguel de Allende, and Rivera Maya, Belmond Group also guides customers to strange places. Journeys in the big cities, of course, are full of passion and enjoyment, but it is also time to change a bit. With some adventure or exploration, we can have funnier journeys and a deeper and wider insight into life. Owned by Belmond Group and located in Luang Prabang, Laos, Asia, Belmond La Residence Phou Vao is a luxurious hotel integrated with both French and Laotian architectural features. The Phou Vao hill where the hotel is located is one of the world's cultural heritage sites. The building of Belmond La Residence Phou Vao was originally built for the emperor to live. Due to political changes, however, this building did not really become a palace. After renovation, today's Belmond La Residence Phou Vao is not changed to be modern or fashionable, but retains the original look and maintains the local historical and cultural traditions. The entire hotel is built of dark solid timbers and authentic heavy materials. All 34 suites use parquet flooring. Without any bright colors, the traditional Laotian fabrics in dark green tone are used as curtains and bed sheets to create an atmosphere close to nature. To change this former low-key and hidden "imperial residence" into a hotel was not easy. Located entirely in the tropical garden of a hill and away from residential areas, the hotel is tranquil, elegance, and serene. With no emphasis on grand palace, magnificent decoration, or luxurious equipment, the hotel is endowed with a sense of history as well as a special dignity of emperor. Arrogant, noble, and beyond the reach of ordinary people, the hotel demonstrates a true luxury. Staying at this hotel gives me many life enlightenments: 1. Staying at the imperial home makes me feel happier than the past king in turbulent times; 2. Finally I have the opportunity to visit the poorest country in Asia. After arrival, however, I find that the locals have better living conditions than me, live a carefree life, and are happier than me; 3. Visit the world cultural heritage recognized by UNESCO; 4. Enjoy the most beautiful section of the Mekong River, which boasts clear water and green mountains; 5. Understand Buddhist culture. More than 4,000 Buddha statues protected by civilians against wars will amaze tourists; 6. Closely look at the raging waterfall and show respect to nature; 7. Watch the tropical bears that are properly protected; 8. Get up at 5 a.m. and offer meals at 6 a.m. to the monks who have only one meal a day... The hotel general manager comes from Belgium and used to serve at other Belmond hotels. The restaurant chef was also born in Belgium, once studied in culinary school, and is good at French cooking. Both his parents are Italians. Therefore, he is good at cooking both French food and Italian food. Having worked in Belmond Kao Samui for over ten years, he gains good reputation and becomes a famous local chef. When the Belmond hotel was opened in Luang Prabang, he came to work here. Knowing Thai and familiar with the local language, he came to work in Luang Prabang, just like a duck in water. Now, cooking Laotian food is just a piece of cakeÂ for him. I appreciate the Laotian dishes cooked by a European chef good at French and Italian culinary skills. With ethnic characteristics, these dishes are natural delicacies baptized by modern civilization and attract us to return and eat again. As an ancient capital, Luang Prabang was once ruled by the French. So there are many Laotian and French historical relics. With a globally unique value recognized by UNESCO, this area was listed as a world cultural heritage. Equipped with large beds and two uniformed hotel staff, the sightseeing boat we took in the

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Mekong River was very exquisite. During the journey, we came ashore several times to visit various villages that engaged in different crafts; again we entered the Pak Ou Caves to watch the thousandBuddha wonder. Due to the protection against wars or other reasons, the locals transferred Buddha statues from their homes to these caves. As a result, now, a total of about 4,000 Buddha statues are placed in these two caves, which may surprise many international visitors. Originating from Tibet, the Mekong River flows through six countries. Its section in Luang Prabang boasts clear water, green mountains, pleasant breeze, and bright sunshine. I will never forget the time when we ate lunch on the table covered with white tablecloth in such enchanting scenery. Another tourist destination was the Kwang Si Waterfall Park. Here I could closely watch the raging water at different heights and feel the wonders of nature. Next to the waterfall scenery, the uniformed hotel staff covered white cloth on the wooden picnic table of the park for us to have wine and lunch. Different from the Niagara Falls (between USA and Canada) that I have been to but now have no impression, this waterfall park will be always cherished in my memory. The Kwang Si Park has an adoption center for tropical bears. That was my first time to closely look at bears, which enlarged my horizon. A little smaller than Canadian bear, tropical bear looks gentle and tame. Finally, do not miss the offering activities arranged by the Belmond hotel for the hotel customers. In Luang Prabang, at 6 a.m. every day, whether sunny day or rainy day, monks line up along fixed street route to ask for alms and receive food or other alms from warm-hearted believers. I got up at 5 a.m. that day and took a car to the specified location. The hotel staff moved the chairs from the car to the street for us to sit down, and then gave the white cloth strips to be draped on us. Each of us held a bowl of rice. At 6 a.m., with big bowls, the monks passed by me and I gave each person a handful of rice. According to my counting, that day I donated to about 100 monks from various temples. For me, this life experience was so luxurious and perfect.

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專注于奢華旅遊的 Belmond 集團玩法完全不同，屬另一套文化，他們在 22 個國

下，冒險或探索，令旅程會更有樂趣，讓人生

Belmond 在 Luang Prabang 開業，他便轉去

的體悟更深更闊。

開闢天地。他懂泰語，來到 Luang Prabang，

家經營的 45 個項目，包括內河遊船（在緬甸

Belmond La Residence Phou Vao 是

語言相近，工作如魚得水。他現時做老檛美

Chindwin 河遊 12 晚、在緬甸 Aveyarwady 河

Belmond 集團旗下亞洲區一家奢華酒店，設

食，得心應手。我欣賞掌握法國和意大利廚藝

遊 10 晚、在法國 Burgundy 遊幾晚）、乘搭傳

在老檛 L a o s（香港台灣稱為寮國）L u a n g

的歐洲廚師做老檛菜，覺得是民族特色的天然

奇 Oriental Express 東方快車（有亞洲歐洲非

Prabang（瑯勃拉邦）。這是一家融合法國與老

美味，經過現代文明洗禮，我們吃過都想回

洲南美洲等不同路線，分別有短程兩三天到長

撾建築特色的酒店，所位於的 Phou Vao 小山

頭。

程十多天豪華火車遊）。這或許有助我們到達

坡，正是世界文化遺產其中一個地點。

Luang Prabang 是古都，曾由法國統治，

Belmond La Residence Phou Vao 那座樓

因此有不少老檛和法國歷史遺跡，UNESCO

Belmond 集團也引導客人到陌生地方去，

房，原本建來給帝王住的，由於政治變化，並

認定該地區具備世上獨一無二價值，表列它為

旗下廿家頂級酒店，所在地點，我們都摸不

沒有真正成為皇宮。經過整建，今天 Belmond

世界文化遺產。

著頭臚，例如在 Taorimira、Portfino、Amalfi

La Residence Phou Vao 並沒有改為摩登時尚，

欣賞湄公河所坐的小艇很精美，附有大

Coast、Sacred Valley、Cusco、St. Martin、

而是保留原來面貌，維持當地歷史文化傳統。

床，有兩位穿制服酒店員工隨行。途中會上岸

St. Michael、Charleston、San Miguel de

全座酒店採用原本深色厚實木材，揉合道地沉

多次，遊覽各座不同手工藝的小村落；又進入

Allende、Rivera Maya 等地。在大城市旅遊

重踏實物料，34 間套房均採用鑲木地板，而

Pak Ou Caves 山洞看千佛奇景，當地人為避

盡顯豪情，縱然十分痛快，但也是時候改變一

以老撾傳統織物作窗簾和床單，不用任何鮮豔

戰爭炮火和其他原因，把家中小佛像放置在山

顏色，暗綠調子，盡量貼近大自然。

洞裡，結果大小兩個山洞，現共擺放了約四千

奢華旅遊的更高層次，領悟人生的箇中三眛。

這座曾經的帝王住宅，低調而隱蔽，如今改為酒店，反而更不簡單。整座套房酒店全置

尊佛像，國際遊客看到這樣的景觀，咋舌不已。

身在小山丘熱帶花園之中，遠離民居，安寧、

湄公河從西藏開始，流經六個國家，在

優雅和幽靜。不重於宮殿式宏偉、金碧輝煌裝

Luang Prabang 那一段，水清山綠，清風艷

飾、豪華設備，除了歷史感外，更多一重帝

陽，我難忘在如此美景中，在鋪了白枱布餐桌

皇的特殊貴氣，高傲勢利，非普通人可接觸得

上進食午餐的經歷。

到，這或許才是真正的奢華。

另一個遊覽活動在 Kwang Si 瀑布公園，

住進該家酒店，讓我體悟到許多人生啟

高低多處地方近距離看汹湧水流，感受大自然

示：一、住進帝王居，會感覺今天的自己比當

奇妙，也令我永記在心。瀑布美景旁邊，穿制

動蕩時代國王幸福；二、終於到了亞洲最貧窮

服的酒店員工，在公園野餐木枱鋪上白布，讓

國家去看，但去到才發現，當地人生活環境比

我們喝酒進午餐，我到過美國加拿大 Niagara

自己所住的更好，而他們生活無憂無慮、每天

Falls，現已全無印象。Kwang Si 公園內有熱

都比自己更快樂；三、看到 UNESCO（聯合國

帶熊收養中心，第一次在近距離觀看熊，叫我

教科文組織）所認定的世界文化遺產；四、欣

開眼界。熱帶熊比加拿大熊小一點，看起來比

賞湄公河最美麗一段，水清山綠；五、領悟

較溫純。

佛教文化，山洞裡放置了平民逃避戰亂而暫存

Belmond 酒店為客人安排布施活動，一

的 4,000 多尊佛像，會有震撼感受；六、近距

定要參加。在 Luang Prabang，每天早上六

離看洶湧瀑布，對大自然起崇敬之心；七、看

時，無論晴天雨天，都有和尚列隊沿固定街道

熱帶熊，他們得到妥善保護；八、早上五時起

路線化緣，領取熱心信眾給予的食物及其他。

床，六時在街上給每天只吃一餐的和尚布施一口飯……

那天我五時起床，乘車出發，來到指定位置，酒店員工搬下椅子，放在街邊，讓我們坐

酒店總經理來自比利時，曾服務於其他

下，然後給我們白布條掛在身上。我們每人手

Belmond 酒店，而餐廳總廚亦出生於比利時，

抱一缽白飯。在六時，拿著大缽的和尚便陸續

他上過烹飪學校，掌握法國廚藝，而他雙親

經過我面前，我給每人一抓，我數過，當天我

是意大利人，因此他擁有法國和意大利兩種

向不同寺廟約百位和尚布施。

優良傳統廚藝。他曾在 Belmond Kao Samui 掌廚十多年，口碑載道，成為當地名廚。到

這樣的人生體驗，對我而言，如此奢華而完美。

MOUTAI Magazine

Interview With Founder of North America's First Chinese Children Magazine

Cheng Jing: Chinese Culture Is

Very

Beautiful 專訪北美首本華裔兒童刊物創辦者

程靜：中國文化很美 INTERVIEW/ 采訪：Laura Su

"There are so many beautiful elements in Chinese culture. I hope we can immerse ourselves in it, enjoy it, like tasting Moutai liquor, and then share the beauty with more people around us. Culture is like liquor—it is most valuable when we share it with others. It is more joyful to share the joy than to keep it to oneself." ——Cheng Jing, founder of "PiPa", North America's first nonprofit magazine customized for Chinese heritage children overseas 「中國文化裡有太多美好的東西，希望我們能用輕鬆的姿態進入它、享受它，就像品茅台美酒一樣，然後把這種美分享給身邊更多的人。文化和美酒一樣，價值在於分享。獨樂樂不如眾樂樂。」——北美第一本專為海外华裔儿童定做的公益刊物《小枇杷》創辦者程靜

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Feeling the Beauty of Chinese Culture Cheng Jing lives in Long Island, New York, where most residents are European Americans. They are neither familiar with nor have an invested interest in Chinese culture; however, during the 2008 Beijing Olympics, they suddenly developed a keen interest in China and were shocked to find a prosperous China looming large on the horizon. Mark Zuckerberg, CEO of Facebook, amazed his audience at Tsinghua University with his speech in Chinese. He said he learned Chinese to please his grandma-in-law, but in reality, it is quite common now for senior management of multinational organizations and investment banks to learn Chinese. Immersion schools, which teach in both Chinese and English, have become more popular. Many high schools in the U.S. plan to introduce Chineselanguage courses as part of their curriculum. In Cheng Jing's opinion, a large gap exists between Chinese and Western cultures, and it is challenging for a Western audience to understand and embrace Chinese culture; however, business is borderless. "In the past, we used to import Western cultures. Today, thanks to business exchanges, we are also exporting our culture to the world." The Chinese language is a growing market, and it is sure to become more popular in the world, first among the high-income group and then among the broader population. Cheng Jing is a native of China Guizhou. Her father obtained his Master's degree in Tang-Song Dynasty Literature. He told her classical Chinese stories when she was young. Therefore, Cheng Jing naturally thinks "Chinese culture is very beautiful". "I hope we can immerse ourselves in it, enjoy it, like tasting Moutai liquor, and then share the beauty with more people around us. Culture

is like liquorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it is most valuable when we share it with others." She still remembers that she had lived in Guiyang before going to college at 18. Therefore, she is very familiar with Moutai. "It was never absent at our table during holidays. My uncle always asked our kids to taste a little bit. Moutai is sweet, does not irritate the throat, and won't make people dizzy all of a sudden. Our uncles and aunts used to make fun of us when I was at high school. They poured a few glasses of different liquors and asked us to tell which glass was which brand. I couldn't identify all of them, but I could always point out which one was Moutai." In her mind, Moutai is the most distinguished liquor in China. Now, China, especially ancient China, is a faraway concept for Chinese heritage children overseas, given the environment in which they are growing up. Meanwhile, there is so much to learn and to explore in American culture, with which they are much more familiar. So, Chinese culture may become a kind of nostalgia that these children cannot fully understand. But she never let go of any opportunities to teach them how to appreciate Chinese culture. "I believe that every sentence we say, every dish we cook, and every tai chi movement we make will become our children's precious memories."

A Duty-Bound Undertaking PiPa (the Chinese word for loquat) is a fruit native to China as well as the name of North America's first nonprofit magazine customized for overseas children to learn Chinese. According to its founder Cheng Jing, "PiPa is a fruit native to China. It is sweet and juicy and looks cute; also, the name PiPa is easy to pronounce and remember. More importantly, it has yellow skin and yellow pulp. We hope that all children of Chinese heritage will be

able to understand Chinese culture and be proud of their cultural heritage and ethnicity because Chinese culture is very beautiful." Before founding Noble Tree Publishing Inc. and "PiPa" magazine, Cheng Jing did not read children books. But she started to read aloud for her kids after becoming a mother. She read more and more children's books as they grew up, and regretted the fact that there was no children's magazine for Chinese heritage children overseas. Her friend Pan Chanjuan first came up with the idea to publish a children's magazine for overseas Chinese kids. Cheng Jing thought it a great idea. This was how they started to run Noble Tree Publishing Inc. This magazine specifically designed for the North American kids is named "PiPa" because "PiPa" is a fruit native to China. It is sweet and juicy and looks cute; also, the name PiPa is easy to pronounce and remember. More importantly, it has yellow skin and yellow pulp. It is interesting to compare it to the banana which has yellow skin and a white heart. They hope that all children of Chinese heritage will be able to understand Chinese culture and be proud of their cultural heritage and ethnicity. After busy preparations, the first issue of "PiPa" was published in 2013. They started the magazine with pure passion. Over the past two years, they have reached out to hundreds of Chinese schools in more than 20 states and have donated their issues to many of them. In this way, the magazine has gained popularity in North America. Their subscribers include various libraries, such as the Cotsen Children's Library at Princeton University, and they have received subscription inquiries from overseas readers in Germany, Australia and Hong Kong. Today, they are far more influential than everyone had ever expected.

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As a nonprofit magazine, "PiPa" costs a total of about 200,000 USD each year. Under such financial pressure, the ultimate reason why they still insist is that Cheng Jing, her colleagues, and the volunteers know clearly that this is all about "OUR KIDS". They want to give their kids better education; they want to better communicate with them; they want them to know their heritage, to have no difficulty understanding their identity, and to have self-esteem and confidence...As parents, they are very natural and willing to do those things for their own children while as Chinese, they regard it as their responsibility to do so.

Everything for the Children Cheng Jing believes that a number of advances have been made in the American education system. Teaching methods have improved to cultivate the talents of their children. Relatively speaking, Chinese families are paying more attention to their children's education as well as to extracurricular activities such as piano, chess, painting, and sports; however, for firstgeneration immigrant families, there is still a reluctance to accept mainstream American culture. These families tend to not be active in community service and school activities. Speech, performance, and competitive sports

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remain a weakness of most Chinese children. In the U.S. for example, in an Englishlanguage environment with no opportunities to communicate in Chinese, Chinese children prefer to accept the "mainstream society" as they grow up. As a result, they become increasingly reluctant to speak Chinese, let alone to read and write it. Learning Chinese in America is like "riding a boat against the current." According to Teacher Ma Liping, an expert on Chinese language education whom Cheng Jing has interviewed, "It is not unusual that our children do not learn Chinese well. On the contrary, it would be unusual if they did learn it well" due to the difficulties involved. Cheng Jing believed, "If parents are uninvolved, relying only on Chinese school and on the children themselves, it will be almost impossible for our children to learn Chinese well (meaning to be able to speak fluently, read independently, and write simple compositions)." For this reason, "PiPa" magazine often holds some live events such as the New York Long Island local family reading club. Every two weeks, volunteer parents will read to the children. Together, they tell stories, do handicrafts, and play games. It is a very popular event. They hope to have more events like this in the future and provide ABCs (American-born Chinese) more

opportunities to show off their talents. Of course, as a nonprofit organization, they also hold fundraising charity events. Events usually include auctions and performances. These events are an important source of the organization's annual income. Cheng Jing talks about the story when they were preparing for the first fundraising charity event. They were hoping to invite some Chinese writers to sign and donate their books to them, writing "Everything for the children." Cheng Jing did not personally know many of the writers, including Chen Zhongshi, Su Tong, and Yan Geling, but these writers all gave "PiPa" the books in a timely manner after hearing about the request. Wang Anyi even signed a total of 13 books in succession. Another story is about Mr. Ed Young, a gentleman in his 80s, winner of the highest prize that can be awarded to an American children's book, the Caldecott Medal. The first time they met, he donated more than a hundred pieces of his hand-drawn Chinese zodiac animals. Cheng Jing was so surprised that she could hardly believe it, so she asked him: "Are those for us?" He said: "Would you be willing to accept them?" Even today, Cheng Jing is still impressed and moved by that moment.

感受中國文化的美好程靜居住的紐約長島是個完全由白人主導的地區，他們不瞭解也不關心中國文化，但是 2008 年奧運會期間，身邊的美國白人突然都對中國感興趣起來，他們非常吃驚的看到一個這樣繁榮的盛世中國突然「冒」出來。Facebook 的 CEO Mark Zuckerberg 在清華大學全程說中文又讓大家吃了一驚（雖然他說主要是為了討好妻子的不會說英文的奶奶），但實際上，跨國企業、投行中高管學中文已經成為一個趨勢，中英文皆教授的 immersion school 也越來越多，或者很多中學將中文開成外語。程靜認為，儘管中西文化差異很大，平時沒有薰陶的國外人們很難理解和接受中國文化，但是經濟是無國界的，以前中國文化輸入很多，現在通過經濟的交流也在進行文化輸出。中文在世界流行起來是必然的趨勢，而且是從高收入人群開始，自上而下的。作為一個土生土長的中國貴州人，程靜的父親是研究唐宋文學的碩

這一本專為北美孩子設計的雜誌被取名為《小枇杷》。在緊鑼密鼓的籌備後，第一期《小枇杷》於 2013 年出版了。在創辦之初，可以說他們完全是憑著一腔熱情。兩年多來，他們聯繫過全美 20 多個州的幾百所中文學校，向很多學校免費贈送過雜誌，在北美建立了相當的知名度。《小枇杷》被包括普林斯頓大學 Cotsen 兒童圖書館在內的多家圖書館訂閱收藏，也有遠在德國、澳洲、香港的讀者詢問如何在海外訂閱，如今的影響力是所有人當初沒有想到的。作為一個公益性的期刊，《小枇杷》每年全部開銷約 20 萬美元，在如此資金壓力下，他們仍然一如堅持，最根本的原因，程靜和她的同事、志願者都明白：這是在為「我們的」孩子做事——他們想給自己孩子更好的教育，希望更好地與他們溝通，希望他們長大後清楚自己的血脈，沒有身份認知的困境，自尊自強自信……可以說，這是身為父母很自然、願意去做的事，也是作為中國人責無旁貸的事。

士，從小就給她講志怪故事、三言二拍，自小的文化熏陶讓她自然而然認為「中國文化很美」，希望大家能用輕鬆的姿態進入這些美好的東西、并享受它，就像品茅台美酒一樣，然後把這種美好的感受分享給身邊更多的人。文化和美酒一樣，價值在於分享。她還記得，那時候在貴陽長到 18 歲讀大學，對茅台酒很熟悉。家裡每年過節都少不了它，舅舅還會勸孩子們嘗一口。茅台酒很香甜，不辣嗓，也不上頭。高中時大人開玩笑，倒幾杯白酒讓她嘗，她能喝出哪杯是茅台，其他酒就不一定能猜對。程靜一直覺得茅台就是中國最有代表性的酒。現在，對海外華裔孩子成長的環境來說，中國尤其是古代中國太遙遠了，同時在她自己熟悉的美國本土的環境裡，又有很多值得探索的有趣事物，所以不自覺的走得遠了，文化會逐漸成為一種兒孫無法理解的鄉愁。但是不能忽略任何能讓他們感受到中國文化之美的機會，她相信父母曾經說過的某句話、做過的某一碟菜、品過的某一口美酒，甚至是練太極的一招一式，都有可能成為孩子長大珍貴的回憶，這，就是文化的傳承。

一切為了孩子程靜認為，美國的教育系統和教學方式都有很多先進的地方，相對而言，華人家庭又是對學習抓得比較緊的，對彈琴、下棋、繪畫等才藝也比較看重，對體育也越來越重視。但對於第一代移民家庭，多數與美國主流文化還有距離，比如在社區和學校的活動上不夠活躍，演講、表演、競技體育等是多數華人孩子的弱項。以美國為例，大環境就是英文，跟中文沒有任何可通之處，再加上孩子較大以後想融入「主流社會」的心情，會讓他們越來越不願意說漢語，更別提讀書、寫字。在美國社會學中文，是「逆水行舟」，引用程靜採訪過的海外中文教育專家馬立平老師的話：「學得不好不奇怪，學得好才奇怪」。如果家長不重視，光靠中文學校和孩子，幾乎不可能真正學會中文——指的是達到流利表達、獨立閱讀和簡單寫作的水平。基于此，《小枇杷》会经常舉辦一些線下活動，比如紐約長島本地的《小枇杷》親子讀書俱樂部，頻率為兩週一次，由志願者爸爸媽媽們給孩子讀書，一起講故事、做手工，這個活動很受歡迎。他們自己也希望有

責無旁貸的事業枇杷，這是一種原產自中國的水果，還是北美第一本專為海外說漢語的學齡前及學齡兒童定做的少兒公益刊物名。依照創辦者程靜的說法：「枇杷是原產中國的水果，甜美多汁，形象可愛，發音簡單，最重要的是，它黃皮黃心，我們希望海外的華裔兒童，通過《小枇杷》瞭解中國文化，對自己的膚色和血統感到驕傲，因為中国文化很美。」在創辦嘉樹出版社和《小枇杷》之前，程靜並不接觸童書，後來做了媽媽，開始給自己的孩子讀故事，隨著他們的成長，閱讀的童書越來越多，發覺這是個很有趣的領域，也很遺憾沒有專門製作給海外華裔兒童的讀物。正好她的朋友潘嬋娟最先有了創辦專為北美的華裔孩子設計兒童雜誌的想法，他們於是一拍即合。

更多這樣的活動，並且提供給華裔孩子展現自己才能的機會。當然，作為一個非營利組織，他們也會舉辦有慈善募捐會。會上有拍賣、表演等內容，也成為每年組織收入的一個來源。程靜談起《小枇杷》第一次舉辦慈善拍賣的狀況，當時他們希望請一些中國作家簽名贈書給《小枇杷》，寫上「一切為了孩子」。很多著名作家，比如陳忠實、蘇童、嚴歌苓等，都不直接認識，但他們聽說後都很快把書簽好給了《小枇杷》，王安憶老師還一口氣簽了 13 本。還有一次，獲得過美國童書最高獎 Caldecott Medal 的 80 多歲的童書畫家 Ed Young 先生，第一次見面就將他手繪的上百張十二生肖圖贈送給他們，程靜吃驚得不敢相信，問：「這是給我們的嗎？」老先生說：「你願意收下嗎？」至今，仍令她動容不已。

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保利香港拍賣「中西名酒珍釀部」專家鄭昀曦（左）及業務代表丘雨楓（右） Expert Xixi Cheng (Left) and business representative George Yau (Right) from Poly's "Chinese and Western Wine Department"

Excavating 發掘分享 Sharing and

與

——Interview With Poly's "Chinese and Western Wine Department" 專訪保利香港拍賣「中西名酒珍釀部」 TEXT/ 文：Lydia TRANSLATION/ 譯：Meng Yuan

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oly Auction Hong Kong had successfully completed its 2014 Autumn Auctions with strong results of HK$ 822 million through the 3-day sales of 12 sessions. Among the sales by the seven departments, more than ten works were sold for over HK$ 10 million each, and many works broke artists' personal records at auctions. The results reinforced the pace of Poly Auction Hong Kong to expand the business to the auction markets of the entire Asia and world. There is no doubt that Hong Kong is a paradise of wine consumption, investment and collection for wine lovers around the world. Since the establishment in 2012, Poly Auction Hong Kong had actively prepared for setting up the Chinese and Western Wine Department and regarded it as one of the seven core departments. Following the debut

for people who love wines, the taste cannot deceive them easily. It has a low risk no matter for collection or investment. After all, the collections pricing only a few thousand dollars are very common in the wine auction market. So even if you have only tens of thousands of dollars, you can try your hands at this auction market. With just a little foresight and luck, you may harvest rare wines that can be found only by accident, but not through seeking. Then, sharing the joy of these gains with family and friends will be the most intoxicating thing in the world. In this sense, the Chinese and western wine auction seems more like a mellow feast. For those who know little about auction but want to have a try, it is a perfect choice for feeling its atmosphere. In order to guarantee the quality and value for each auction item, selecting wines is not an easy job. The specialist of the Chinese and

bottle of Karuizawa Black Aqua of Life was auctioned for HK$ 20,000, but in the autumn auctions of October, its price had been increased to HK$ 50,000. In less than a year, the multiplied increase in price convincingly proves the investment potential and bright prospects of the rare and fine wine market. At present, more and more people will consider wines' value for collection instead of drinking. The price of Scotch whisky is also rising gradually. Discerning collectors would buy a few bottles at a time not only for drinking but also for a long-term collection. In the autumn auctions of this year, the performance of Moutai and Kaoliang are still dazzling as usual. The collectors are mainly from Mainland China and Taiwan. As there may still be some misunderstanding about savoring Moutai in the international market, the wine experts specially prepared a wine savoring before the auction. "We would like

Hong Kong is a window and a springboard to promote the splendid Chinese civilization to the world. At the same time, it also brings excellent cultures of the world to China. Thus Poly Auction Hong Kong has its own responsibility and mission. 香港是一個窗口和跳板，把中國的燦爛文明推向世界，把世界的優秀文化帶到中國，保利香港拍賣有自己的責任和使命。

sales in the spring auctions, the Chinese and Western Wine Department maintained strong results at the autumn auctions with an increase of 35% in total sales of wines and spirits, reflecting the growing demand for this category. In the international auction market, if you have favorite paintings and calligraphy works, antiques or Chinese contemporary art works, you should have at least more than one million funds to support your bid in a fierce auction. For many auction beginners, this is no doubt a daunting hurdle. Compared with other valuable art works, wines have more transparent prices and do not require much time or energy on researching their values. Sometimes, turbulent markets may disturb your aesthetic taste and cause misjudgment on the value of art works. But

Western Wine Department says, "Only those that are in a small production and have long years, or appear only in particular market during particular period, as well as those exquisite vintages whose producers no longer exist due to various reasons will be favored by the auction market." Brand is certainly an important factor, but the wines of auction grade must be extremely rare limited edition. In order to avoid being faked and imitated, sometimes the department will collect some products with unique flavor and taste brewed by little wineries. As time goes by, these waters of life refined through years will be rarer and rarer and their prices will be increasingly higher. As long as they are preserved properly, the future appreciation space will be obvious. In the spring auctions of April this year, a

to teach the overseas consumers to linger over Moutai and understand Moutai better." The wine expert says frankly that she likes Moutai very much. She knows that different years of Moutai have rich and delicate aromas. Besides, as the national liquor of China, Moutai is a kind of flowing cultural liquid. She hopes to guide more consumers in this way to slowly and pleasantly savor Moutai. If the significance of fine wine is to share, then the Chinese and Western Wine Department is taking the advantage of Hong Kong's open market to build a professional auction and communication platform for top wines, as well as discovering and sharing the exquisite and rare vintages from all over the world. Wine is a special cultural product, and sharing it is like a dialogue and communication of civilization.

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不同年份的茅台酒蘊藏著豐富而細膩的醇香，作為中國國酒，那是一種流動的文化液體

輕井澤 1960 Karuizawa 1960

麥卡倫 50 年 -1928 The Macallan 50-1928

經過三天激烈的競投，剛剛過去的保利香港 2014 年秋季拍賣以

的事。名酒部的專家介紹說：「只有那些出廠量少、年份高，或者只在

8.22 億港元的成交額圓滿收槌。在七大部門的 12 個專場中，共有十多

特定時期、特定市場出現過，甚至是原廠因各種原因已經不存在了的

件拍品超過 1,000 萬港元成交，其中多件拍品刷新藝術家個人紀錄。對

佳釀才會獲得拍賣市場的親睞。」

於 2012 才將拍賣業務拓展至香港的保利來說，交出這樣傲人的答卷，無疑更堅定其將業務擴展至全亞洲、向全世界輻射的步伐。於全世界的美酒愛好者來說，香港，無疑是一個美酒消費、投資與收藏的天堂。 2012 年，保利香港拍賣成立伊始，便將「中西名酒珍釀部」作為

品牌固然是一個重要的因素，但拍賣級別的名酒，一定是優秀品牌裏極其罕見的限量之作。為了避免假和仿的問題，有時也會征集一些具有獨特風味和口感的小酒莊的產品。這些歷經歲月光華的生命之水，隨著時間流逝，在世界上只會愈來愈少，價格自然會越來越高。只要有合理的保存，未來的升值空間是顯而易見的。

七大核心部門之一，積極致力於它的籌建。「中西名酒珍釀部」自今年

4 月份的春拍，一瓶輕井澤黑命之水當時的拍賣價大概是 2 萬港

春季首次開拍成功後，秋拍依然不負眾望，總成交價比春拍高出 35%，

幣，10 月份的秋拍就已躍升到 5 萬港幣，短短不到一年的時間，成倍

驚艷的成績反映出廣大藏家對酒類藏品的殷切需求。

的升幅，足以見證珍稀名酒作為投資的市場前景。如果說之前可能會

在一個國際級拍賣市場，如果你有心儀字畫、古董或是當代藝術，

有人拿來飲用，那麽現在，更多人就會考慮到它的收藏價值。蘇格蘭

至少也得需要超過一百萬的資金才敢在激烈的競價中從容舉牌，對很

威士忌的價格也在慢慢增長，眼光獨到的藏家會一次買下幾瓶，如此

多初涉拍賣的人來說，這無疑是一道令人卻步的門檻。相對於其他名

一來，不僅可以飲用，也能留下一些作為長期收藏。

貴藝術品，酒類的價格向來比較透明，不需要花大量的時間、精力去

今年的秋拍中，茅台與高粱酒的表現依舊亮眼，藏家主要來自中

研究它的價值。如果說，紛亂的市場有時會幹擾你的審美，讓你對藝

國大陸和台灣地區。針對國際市場品飲茅台可能還存在著誤區的問題，

術品的價值做出錯誤的判斷，但是對愛酒的人來說，口感絕不會輕易

名酒部的專家在拍賣之前特意準備了試飲區，「我們想用慢慢品的方法

欺騙自己。無論從收藏抑或投資的角度看，這都屬於低風險。畢竟，

去推動茅台，讓海外消費者更好的去了解茅台。」名酒部專家鄭昀曦坦

在名酒拍賣市場裡，幾千塊的藏品也很常見，所以即便是有幾萬塊錢

言自己本身就非常喜歡喝茅台，她知道，不同年份的茅台酒蘊藏著豐

也可以在拍賣市場小試身手。一點眼光和運氣，說不定就能邂逅可遇

富而細膩的醇香，作為中國國酒，那是一種流動的文化液體，她希望

不可求的珍稀佳釀，與家人、朋友分享收獲的喜悅，想必再無比這更

能用這種方式引導更多的消費者慢慢的、享受的品味茅台。

讓人陶醉的事了。從這個意義上說，中西名酒拍賣，更像一場醇香的

如果說美酒的意義在於分享，「中西名酒珍釀部」正用香港開放的

盛宴，對那些不了解但又想嘗試拍賣的人來說，是感受它氛圍的絕佳

市場優勢，搭建專業的拍賣級美酒交流平台，發掘並分享全世界的珍

選擇。

稀佳釀。酒，作為一種特殊的文化產物，這樣的分享，也是一種文明

為了保證每一件拍賣品的品質和價值，甄選名酒並不是一件容易

民國 97 年百億金門高粱紀念酒 2008 Supreme Kinmen Kaoliang

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的對話與交流。

1963 年貴州茅台酒 Kweichow Moutai 1963

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Savoring Column

尋味專欄

Moutai's Unique Technique Amon 中外佳釀各異茅台工藝獨芳 TEXT/ 文：Wang Li TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

World'

ach fine spirit has its unique brewing environment, raw materials, distillation method, aging period, and blending technique. Compared with Western distilled liquors, what is the uniqueness of Chinese liquor especially Moutai? The first difference lies in brewing materials. Among other distilled liquors, brandy uses grape as raw materials, whiskey uses malt and grain as raw materials, and rum uses cane molasses as raw materials. Chinese liquors, however, mainly use such grains as sorghum, wheat, and corn as raw materials. Among these grains, sorghum is the most traditional and most important raw material of Chinese liquor. The "Red Tassel" sorghum used for making Moutai is more special. It is a native variety of the Chishui River basin and features small grain, thick husk, hard and full kernel, and high content of amylopectin, which can withstand several rounds of steaming, boiling, and fermentation in Moutai's technique. Besides, such abundant polyphenol substances as tannin contained in the "Red Tassel" sorghum are important precursors of flavor substances in Moutai. The second difference lies in fermentation methods. Western distilled liquors mainly use liquid fermentation. The process is saccharification first and then fermentation, or direct fermentation without saccharification. Whiskey, for example, first uses the enzyme generated by germinated barley for saccharification and then uses yeast for fermentation; a batch of raw materials is usually fermented only once. Chinese liquors, however, use solid-state fermentation, which is a process of simultaneous saccharification and fermentation; a batch of raw materials is fermented twice for the light (or "Fen") fragrance liquor, five times for the thick (or "Lu") fragrance liquor, and up to eight times for Moutai (Jiang fragrance liquor). The third difference lies in microorganism environment. Most Western distilled liquors use pure fermentation in which yeast is the only microorganism. The main purpose is to convert sugar into alcohol. By contrast, Chinese liquors adopt open production. In the fermentation process, different species of microorganisms are gathered from the environment to create sufficient condition for forming liquor styles. Moutai's microorganism environment is even more special. Surrounded by mountains, with the Chishui River flowing through, the Moutai area features mild winters, hot summers, slight wind as well as moderate rainfall and forms a relatively enclosed sub-environment beneficial for the growth of liquor-making microorganisms. Moreover, the liquor brewing activities with a history of over 1,000 years have domesticated and selected special microorganisms to form a unique and unduplicated microorganism environment, which is crucial to form Moutai's unique style. The final difference lies in brewing facilities. Other distilled liquors mainly use casks or stainless steel containers for fermentation, whereas Chinese liquors use cellars for fermentation. Among different Chinese liquors, the thick fragrance liquor uses mud cellars; the Jiang fragrance liquor uses stone cellars; the light fragrance liquor use underground jars. As distillation containers, other distilled liquors use continuous or intermittent pot stills whereas Chinese liquors use steaming buckets — solid-state fermented grains are used as fillers to improve the distillation efficiency. As storage containers, most of other distilled liquors use oak barrels where the barrel ingredients are integrated with the original liquor in the aging process to endow the liquor with aroma and color. By contrast, most Chinese liquors use pottery jars for storage. As the most typical example, Moutai uses the pottery jars that have a porous structure and good breathability, which helps the liquor to

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王莉貴州茅台酒股份有限公司總工程師高級工程師國家白酒評委 Wang Li

Chief Engineer of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.

Senior engineer and national liquor tasting committeewoman

Editor's note: In the previous issue, we specially invited Ms. Wang Li, Chief Engineer of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. to share with us the method and beauty of savoring Moutai. In this issue, Ms. Wang Li will detail Moutai's differences from Western distilled liquors in such aspects as brewing materials, fermentation methods, and microorganism environment, and lead us to feel the Oriental characteristics. 編者按：上期專欄中，本刊特邀貴州茅台酒股份有限公司總工程師王莉，為我們解讀茅台酒的品味之法，剖析其間的種種妙處。本期專欄，王莉總工程師將向我們解讀茅台酒在釀造原料、發酵方式、微生物環境等方面與西方蒸餾酒的不同之處，感悟東方特色。

ng the

's Fine Spirits mature. Meanwhile, thanks to good breathability, substances in the liquors interact with each other to form the slightly yellow substances, endowing the liquor with color, which is a long process. Through the contrast in such aspects as raw materials, fermentation, environment, and facilities of Western liquors and Chinese liquors, you may have a deeper understanding of Moutai's uniqueness. It is the inheritance of ancient agricultural civilization, unique natural environment, brewing wisdom accumulated for thousands of years, and the modern scientific brewing technique that accomplish this mellow and fragrant national liquor of China. 每一款美酒都有其特有的釀造環境、原

格的形成創造了充分條件。茅台酒的微生物環

料、蒸餾方式、陳釀時間及勾調技術，相較西

境則更為特殊，這裡四面環山、一水中流，冬

方蒸餾酒，中國白酒尤其是國酒茅台，她有什

暖夏熱、風微雨少，形成了一個相對封閉、有

麼獨特之處呢？

利於釀酒微生物生長的小環境，加上綿延千年

首先得從釀造原料說起。國外蒸餾酒中白

的釀酒活動馴化和自然篩選了一個特殊的微生

蘭地以葡萄為原料，威士忌以麥芽和穀類為原

物群系，逐漸形成了一個獨一無二、無法複製

料，朗姆酒則以甘蔗糖蜜為原料，而中國白酒

的微生態環境，對茅台酒獨特風格的形成起著

的原料主要為高粱、小麥、玉米等穀物，其中

至關重要的作用。

高粱是中國白酒最傳統也最重要的原料。

最後要說到的是釀酒設備設施的差異。國

茅台酒所用的「紅纓子」高粱更為特殊，

外蒸餾酒發酵多用木桶或不銹鋼發酵容器，中

它是生長於赤水河流域的原生品種，具有顆粒

國白酒則採用窖池發酵，其中，濃香型白酒用

小、皮厚、堅實、飽滿，支鏈澱粉含量高的特

泥窖，醬香型酒用石窖，清香型酒用地缸；在

點，適合茅台酒多輪次蒸煮和發酵的工藝要

蒸餾容器上，國外酒用或連續或間歇的釜式蒸

求。同時，「紅纓子」高粱中富含的單寧等多

餾，中國白酒則使用甑桶蒸餾——固態酒醅充

酚類物質也是茅台酒中風味物質的重要前體。

當填料，提高蒸餾效率；在儲存容器方面，國

中國白酒的發酵方式也有異於西方蒸餾

外蒸餾酒大都採用橡木桶，原酒在橡木桶陳釀

酒。西方蒸餾酒以液態發酵方式為主，多是先

過程中，橡木桶中的成分與酒液融合，賦予了

糖化後發酵，甚至是不糖化直接發酵的過程。

美酒香氣和顏色。中國白酒則多用陶壇貯存，

譬如威士忌，先用大麥發芽產生的酶進行糖

以茅台酒最為典型，陶壇的微孔結構具有透氣

化，再接入酵母進行發酵，一批原料通常只進

性好的特點，利於美酒的老熟。同時酒中物質

行一次發酵。而中國白酒的生產是固態發酵，

利用陶壇的透氣性相互作用形成微黃色物質，

是邊糖化邊發酵的過程，一批原料至少進行兩

賦予酒體顏色，這是一個長期的過程。

次發酵如清香型白酒，五次發酵如濃香型白酒，而醬香型白酒茅台最多達八次發酵。

通過中外美酒從原料、發酵、環境、設備等方面的對比，相信你已對茅台酒的獨特之處

中國白酒釀造工藝特點之三——微生物環

有了更深入的瞭解。正是傳承了古老的農耕文

境。西方蒸餾酒多為純種發酵，酵母是發酵體

明，坐擁得天獨厚的自然環境，加上綿延千年

系中唯一的微生物種群，主要目的是將糖轉化

的釀造智慧，以及現代科學的釀酒工藝，方成

成酒精。而中國白酒是開放式生產，在發酵過

就了這醇香馥郁的中國國酒。

程中網羅環境中不同種屬的微生物，為美酒風

MOUTAI Magazine

Drinking Intellectually Column 文字飲專欄

"Sinology Policeman" Pelliot 「漢學警察」伯希和 Paul Pelliot (1878–1945) was a world-famous French sinologist and explorer. In 1908, he came to China to explore the Dunhuang Grottoes, purchased a large number of cultural Dunhuang relics, and took back to France. These relics are now stored in the National Library of France.

hinese people are used to calling Sinologists friends of the Chinese people. For over a century, only a handful of foreigners with high attainments in Chinese culture have been regarded by Chinese people as traitors, and the Frenchman Pelliot is one of them. Pelliot got this notoriety because he and his British partner Aurel Stein opened the door of Dunhuang treasures and shipped many relics that recorded the Chinese culture of more than one thousand years ago to Europe, becoming the initiators of stealing Dunhuang treasures. Therefore, some people even consider Pelliot a cultural thief whose behaviors were "scandalous and regrettable for all Chinese people". In the West, Pelliot was called the "Sinology policeman" mainly because he often literarily argued with others in academe in his later years. His confidence to criticize others everywhere perhaps came from his close contact with China. Both thief and policeman, a pair of contradictory identities, were used for Pelliot. Pelliot had his first intimate contact with China in 1900. Appointed to buy books by his alma mater College of France, Pelliot arrived in Beijing via Vietnam. In 1900 when Beijing was in a serious social unrest, Pelliot encountered the Boxer Rebellion and was trapped in the Siege of the Legations. He distinguished himself from other terrified foreigners for both bravery and savoir-faire. The Briton Lionel Giles recalled one key incident this way in the book "The Siege of the Peking Legation": "A Frenchman, named Pelliot, went up to the Chinese barricade in Legation Street and had some tea with the soldiers. The Chinese asked him to go

MOUTAI Magazine

TEXT/ 文：Dong Tiezhu TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

保羅·伯希和（Paul Pelliot，1878 年 5 月 28 日 -1945 年 10 月 26 日），世界著名的法國漢學家、探險家。1908 年前往中國敦煌石窟探險，購買了大批敦煌文物，帶回法國，

over to their barricade and see their Colonel. This he did...There he had a talk with some blue-buttoned officials, who gave him food, and tried to 'pump' him as to the state of our defenses and amount of provisions. He seemed to have lied beautifully, making us out to be in a splendid way altogether." It seemed that Pelliot had never been a scholar who was able to research in the study only, but more like a calm paladin in scared chaos and a "policeman" protecting his compatriots. Surprisingly, newly arrived in China, this Frenchman was able to understand the Shandong accent of the Boxer soldiers. One could not help but marveled at his genius for languages; moreover, communicating freely with these almost uneducated soldiers who regarded foreigners as enemies required not only outstanding linguistic ability but also an in-depth understanding of Chinese culture. This meant that at College of France Pelliot not only learned Chinese but also understood Chinese culture thoroughly. After escaping from the Boxer soldiers, Pelliot returned to France in 1904 and had become a Sinology master. The rare books he brought from China also became the new materials for Sinologists' researches. This also contributed to his second Eastern tour in 1906. That is, two years after he returned to France, he came to Dunhuang. Pelliot's purpose this time was to find more archaeological materials and books so as to have a more in-depth understanding of China's ancient culture. This eastbound journey for scriptures meant that regarding the research on Chinese culture, Pelliot was no longer satisfied with such conventional literature as "Four Books

今藏於法國國家圖書館博物館。

and Five Classics" or "Twenty-Four Histories". Sinology research mainly has two ways. One is to interpret Chinese classics in the perspective of Westerners. For example, the same sentence "study and constantly review what one has learned" can have dozens of different interpretations; the other is to use the literature materials unattainable for ordinary people to reconstruct the development of China's ancient culture. In the first way, researchers are required to master and freely use Chinese and Western classics, while in the second way, new achievements can be gained as long as there are new materials. Obviously, Pelliot preferred the second way, which accorded with his brave and resourceful character. The reason was that to deal with archaeological discoveries in northwest China at that time was almost at the risk of life. "Last night, at 2° C, it was freezing as well as windy. Gusts of wind would soon blow together with snow and dust. Five of our horses escaped from the ranch at night. After three hours' search, we found two horses only. The horse team went out for further search, leaving me alone at the foot of the Tongmulun mountain and frozen in the yurt." This is a paragraph from the "Western Region Expedition Journal". When he went through hardships and arrived in Dunhuang, the Briton Stein was already there. Stein, however, did not know Chinese and could not bargain with Taoist Wang who guarded the Dunhuang treasures. Pelliot made a deal with Taoist Wang after negotiation and bought thousands of volumes of scripture books at a price of 500 taels. Because Pelliot was an expert in Chinese culture, the scripture books

he took had great academic value, most of which were related to Buddhism – Religion was Pelliot's concern and his eastbound journey for scriptures could be considered as a brave move inspired by religious spirit. This Dunhuang trip became a turning point of Pelliot's Sinology research. Since then he had been active in the Central Asian area and addicted to finding various archaeological materials. This brought a worldwide reputation for him; however, as every coin has two sides, a jack of all trades is master of none. Pelliot involved in various fields but the result was that almost all of his influential papers were the criticisms or responses to the opinions of others, with less and less original research. Therefore, he also won the nickname of "Sinology policeman". Actually, this could not be regarded as reputation. "Sinology policeman" certainly indicated his expertise of finding faults but also indicated his peremptoriness. His students at College of France, under his influence, had a keen interest in Central Asian languages; however, most of his brilliant students, with Cleaves as representative, were self-educated talents and the languages and cultures they researched were Greek to Pelliot. As a teacher, Pelliot was very stubborn. Pelliot's student Denis Sinor recalled his first exposure to Chinese under Pelliot: "In his courses intended for his students, he paid no consideration whatever to the level of knowledge we may have had. I vividly remember the occasion when, in opening a course, he announced that it would be based on the Kirghiz chapter of the T'ang Shu. The fact that some of the handful of auditors (including myself) could not read Chinese did not bother him. By the time of the next lesson I had learned, on my own, how to use a Chinese dictionary..." As a "policeman", Pelliot was so inspiring but also so awesome. The road he explored was a vibrant road as well as a "dead end" – over-reliance on new materials and lack of own analysis. As a result, nothing could be achieved when there were no new materials. Pelliot once said: "The Dunhuang treasures were enough for several generations to study." The question is, what researchers should rely on after several generations...

人伯希和就是其中一個。伯希和的惡名，是因為他和英國人斯坦因

展。前者需要熟讀中西經典並融會貫通，而後者則只要有新材料就可以有新成果。伯希和顯

合夥打開了敦煌寶藏的大門，把大量記載著上

然更傾向於後者，這也符合他勇敢機智的性格，

千年前中國文化的文物運到了歐洲，成為了敦

因為要在當時中國的西北做考古發現，幾乎是

煌盜寶的始作俑者。也正是為此，有人甚至認

在拿生命做賭註。

為伯希和是一個文化盜賊，其所為「讓炎黃子

「昨夜，氣溫 2℃，結冰了，也起風了。

孫憤慨痛惜」。在西方，伯希和被稱為「漢學

大雪很快就會開始卷起灰塵並刮起陣陣狂風。

警察」。這與他晚年到處在學界和人打筆仗有

我們的馬中有五匹在夜間逃出了牧場。經過三

關，而之所以有底氣四處批評他人，大約正是

個小時的追尋之後，我們也只能找到兩匹。我

源於他和中國親密接觸後所擁有的自信。小偷

放馬隊離去，自己卻留在通木倫山腳下，在蒙

和警察，這一對矛盾的身份，就這樣同時落在

古包中被凍僵了。」這是伯希和《西域探險日

了伯希和身上。

記》中的一段話。當他歷經千辛萬苦來到敦煌

伯希和與中國的第一次親密接觸，是在

的時候，英國人斯坦因已經捷足先登了。只不

1900 年。伯希和受命於母校法蘭西學院，經

過斯坦因不通中文，無法和看守敦煌寶藏的王

法國的屬國越南前往北京購買書籍。1900 年

道士討價還價，全靠伯希和才和王道士談妥了

的北京硝煙彌漫，伯希和在北京恰逢義和團圍

交易，用五百兩銀子換取了數千卷經書。也正

攻使館。就在眾洋人驚恐萬分之際，伯希和的

是因為伯希和是中國文化的專家，所以他所拿

勇敢和機智讓其脫穎而出。英國人翟蘭思在《北

走的經書都極具學術價值，其中大多數更是與

京使館被圍記》中回憶說：「法國人伯希和到

佛教有關——宗教是伯希和所關註的，他的東

使館街中國人的占領區，和義和團士兵一起喝

行取經可以說就是一次在宗教精神感召下的勇

茶。士兵們還邀請他去和義和團的馬將軍見面，

敢之舉。

他居然答應了……他從義和團那裏得到了不少

敦煌之行成為了伯希和漢學研究的轉折

食物，而且順利地騙過了他們，帶著我們一起

點，從此他一直活躍在中亞一帶，癡迷於發

逃離了占領區。」

現各種考古材料。這為他帶來了世界性的聲

如此看來，伯希和從來不是一個只會在書

譽。可是成也蕭何敗也蕭何，博便不專，伯希

齋中專研學問的學者，倒是更像一位處驚不亂

和廣泛涉獵的結果，就是其有影響的論文幾乎

的俠士，一名保護著同胞的「警察」。一位剛

都是對他人觀點的批評和回應，而原創的研究

剛到中國的法國人，居然能夠聽得懂義和團士

越來越少，因此他也獲得了「漢學警察」的綽

兵的山東口音，也不得不為他的語言天賦所折

號。這並不能算是美譽。「漢學警察」固然說

服；而要自如地和幾乎沒有受過教育且視洋人

明了他善於挑刺找錯，卻也意味著他的專橫。

為敵的士兵交流，則不但要語言能力出眾，更

其在法蘭西學院的弟子們，雖然在伯希和的影

需要對中國文化有深入了解，可見伯希和在法

響下對中亞語言產生了濃厚興趣，但事實上

蘭西學院所學到的不僅僅是中文，對中國文化

以 Cleaves 為代表高足們大多是自學成才，

也已了如指掌。

他們所鉆研的語言和文化伯希和並不通曉。作

從義和團手下逃脫的伯希和在 1904 年回

為一個老師，伯希和是非常固執的，他的高足

到法國，已成為了漢學界的巨擘。他從中國帶

Sinor 在回憶起自己的第一堂課時說：「伯希

去的圖書善本也成為了漢學家們研究的新材

和上課完全不理會學生的程度會有不同。他讓

料。這也促成了他於 1906 年再次東遊，在兩

我們讀《新唐書》，但是全然不會考慮到課上

年後來到敦煌。伯希和的此次東行，目的就是

不少人的中文閱讀水平不行。在第二堂課之前，

找到更多的考古材料和書籍，以對中國的古代

我只好自己學會了怎麽用中文字典……」

文化有更為深入的了解。這一次東行取經，意味著伯希和對中國

作為一個「警察」，伯希和就是這樣既具有感召力，卻也令人生畏，而其所開辟的道

文化的研究，已不再滿足於對四書五經或是

路，則是一條生機勃勃之路，也是一條「死路」

二十四史這樣的常規文獻了。漢學研究無非有

——過於依靠新材料而缺乏自己的分析，那麽

兩種方法，其一是用西方人的角度來詮釋中國

在沒有新材料的情況下就會束手無策。伯希和

中國人習慣將漢學家們喚作中國人民的朋

的經典，同樣的一句「學而時習之」可以有幾

曾說：「敦煌的寶藏足夠幾代人去研究」，問

友。一百多年以來，只有極少數對中國文化有

十種不同的解釋；其二則是通過常人所不能見

題是，幾代人之後怎麽辦……

著深厚造詣的外國人被中國人視為奸賊，法國

到的文獻材料，來重新建構中國古代文化的發

MOUTAI Magazine

attended the activity. More than 100 Chinese and foreign media covered this event on the site. At the meeting, Mr. Baudouin Havaux specially awarded medals and certificates for the medalists of the 2015 CMB Spirits Selection, that is, the gold medalist New Feitian Moutai as well as the silver medalists Han Jiang liquor and Xijiu. According to accounts, the theme of the 2015 Spirits Selection will be "the World's Liquor, China's Guiyang" meaning that liquor is not only for China, but also for the world. The Spirits Selection will be held on August 24 to 26, 2015 in Guiyang. After the competition, a series of activities such as the "Gold Medal Avenue" Award Ceremony for the 2015 CMB Spirits Selection and the 2015 Brussels Guiyang International Spirits Exhibition will be held. (Reported by Song Lang and Zhang Liangjun)

2015 年布魯塞爾國際烈酒大賽啟動近日，2015 年比利時布魯塞爾國際烈酒大獎賽暨中國（貴州）國際酒類博覽會隆重啟動。比利時布魯塞爾烈性酒大賽主席卜杜安哈 Mr. Baudouin Havaux awarded the gold medal and certificate to Mr. Yuan Renguo

弗，貴陽市政府副市長高衛東，茅台集團公司領導袁仁國、劉自力、

卜杜安哈弗主席給袁仁國董事長頒發金獎獎牌和證書

呂雲懷、張德芹以及來自國內外相關行業協會、酒類企業的領導和代

2015 CMB Spirits Selection Was Started Recently, the 2015 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) Spirits Selection and the China Guizhou International Alcoholic Beverages Expo were grandly started. Baudouin Havaux (Chairman of the CMB Spirits Selection), Gao Weidong (vice-mayor of Guiyang City), Yuan Renguo, Liu Zili, Lv Yunhuai, Zhang Deqin (leaders of Moutai Group), as well as leaders and representatives from related industry associations and alcoholic beverage enterprises home and abroad

MOUTAI Magazine

表出席活動，中外 100 多家媒體到會采訪。會上，卜杜安哈弗主席專門為 2014 年比利時布魯塞爾國際烈酒大獎賽金獎得主茅台酒，銀獎得主漢醬酒和習酒頒發了獎牌和證書。據瞭解，2015 年的大獎賽將以「世界的白酒，中國的貴陽」為主題，寓意白酒不僅是中國的，更是世界的。大獎賽將於 2015 年 8 月 24 日至 26 日在貴陽舉行，賽後將舉辦 2015 年比利時布魯塞爾國際烈性酒大賽「金牌大道」頒獎典禮、2015 年比利時布魯塞爾中國貴陽國際烈性酒展示等系列活動。（宋浪張靚君）

Liu Yandong (1st from right) cordially met with Zhao Shuyue (1st from left) 劉延東（右一）親切接見趙書躍（左一）

diplomatic relations, the 2014 "China France Brand Forum" was held by Bonjour Shanghai and Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris (CCIP, Paris Chamber of Commerce), and assisted by Paris Developpement and China Association for Quality Promotion (CAQP). About 200 enterprise representatives and 100 media from China and France attended the forum. About 200 renowned Chinese and French brand and association representatives including Moutai, Exception, Huawei, Publicis Group, Hisense, ICICLE, Ganten, Pierre Cardin, Cartier, Montblanc, Bucherer, Printemps Paris, and Google France attended the forum. In such a gathering for various Chinese and French brands as well as fashion experts, as the cocktail sponsor of this event, Moutai presented a wonderful cocktail feast for the Chinese and French people from all walks of life. (Cammy France)

Zhao Shuyue Attended "Confucius Institute Day" on Behalf of Moutai Group On September 27, the launch ceremony of the first global "Confucius Institute Day" was held in Beijing to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the founding of Confucius Institutes. At the ceremony, Madam Liu Yandong, Vice-Premier of the State Council and Chair of the Council of the Confucius Institute Headquarters read the congratulatory letters from Chinese President Xi Jinping and Chinese Premier Li Keqiang, and delivered a speech. A total of more than 200 people attended the ceremony, including executive council members and council members of the Confucius Institute Headquarters, 43 foreign diplomatic envoys in China and heads of cultural institutions, presidents of 30 universities, as well as students and residents from home and abroad. Mr. Zhao Shuyue, the Deputy Party Secretary and Secretary of Discipline Inspection Commission of Moutai Group, was invited to attend the ceremony on behalf of Moutai Group. Madam Liu Yandong cordially met with Mr. Zhao Shuyue and other representatives. (Reported by Chen Lulu and Wang Yuan)

趙書躍代表茅台參加「孔子學院日」為慶祝孔子學院成立 10 周年，9 月 27 日，全球首個「孔子學院日」啟動儀式在京舉行。中共中央政治局委員、國務院副總理、孔子學院總部理事會主席劉延東出席活動，宣讀國家主席習近平、國務院總理李克強賀信並致辭。孔子學院總部常務理事、理事，43 個國家和機構的駐華使節，30 所高校校長以及中外學生、市民等 200 餘人參加了啟

茅台亮相中法品牌高峰論壇 10 月 2 日，首屆「中法品牌高峰論壇」（Bonjour Brand）在

動儀式。茅台集團公司黨委副書記、紀委書記趙書躍代表公司應邀參加，

巴黎 Westin 酒店順利落幕。這是一場中法品牌的對話與交流，更是

劉延東親切接見了趙書躍等代表。（陳露露王媛）

橫貫東西文化的盛宴，為中法兩國有願望建設品牌的企業創造了一個平等對話與交流的平台。作為中法 50 周年最重要的活動之一，此次

Moutai Attended the China France Brand Forum

2014《中法品牌高峰論壇》由巴黎早安上海品牌推廣公司（Bonjour

On October 2, 2014, the first "China France Brand Forum" (Bonjour Brand) was successfully concluded at the Westin Hotel, Paris. This was a dialogue and exchange among Chinese and French brands as well as a feast involving both Eastern and Western cultures, and created a platform for equal dialogue and exchange among Chinese and French enterprises who wished to promote their brands. As one of the most important events for the 50th anniversary of Sino-French

表 200 人，中法媒體近 100 家。

Shanghai）和巴黎工商會 (CCIP) 主辦，巴黎經濟發展局（Paris Developpement）以及中國品質萬裏行促進會協辦。中法參與企業代茅台、例外、華為、陽獅集團、海信、ICICLE、百歲山、皮爾卡丹、卡地亞、萬寶龍、寶齊萊、巴黎春天、法國谷歌等 200 位知名中法品牌與協會代表均出席了此次論壇。眾多中法的品牌雲集，時尚達人彙聚，作為這次活動雞尾酒贊助方，茅台為中法各界人士奉上了一場精彩的雞尾酒盛宴！（嘉美法國）

MOUTAI Magazine

Chinese Ambassador Delegation Approached Moutai On September 18, Ma Canrong (former Ambassador to Germany), Chen Jian (former Ambassador to Japan and former UN Deputy Secretary-General), Zhang Yuanyuan (former Ambassador to Belgium and New Zealand) and other diplomats formed a Chinese delegation to visit Moutai Group. They received warm reception from Du Guangyi and Wan Bo (Deputy General Managers of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.). Accompanied by Wan Bo, the delegation visited the packaging and liquor-making workshops as well Moutai's National Liquor Culture City to learn about the geographical environment, making technique, and culture of Moutai. Immediately after arriving at Moutai Town, Ambassador Ma Canrong was pleased by the bouquet in the air. He said, "I'm a big fan of Moutai. This is my second visit to Moutai Distillery and I feel particularly kind and warm. Thank Moutai for its unique contribution to China's diplomacy. In my career as an ambassador abroad, I used to entertain the most distinguished foreign guests with Moutai. Once we drank Moutai, we had a lot to talk and the atmosphere became very friendly."

This was also the second visit to Moutai for Ambassador Zhang Yuanyuan who had a diplomatic career of nearly four decades. Zhang Yuanyuan said that Moutai was a capable assistant and a very important friend for the diplomatic work. The friendship with many foreigners began with the chat of Moutai, which showed Moutai's high popularity abroad. Moutai is the diplomatic liquor and friendship liquor of China and is closely linked with China's diplomacy. Moutai helps China to open the door of diplomacy while China's diplomacy helps Moutai to walk towards the world. Ambassador Chen Jian said that Premier Zhou Enlai liked to use Moutai for entertaining foreign guests such as Nixon and Tanaka during their visits to China, and was the best mouthpiece for Moutai. All our ambassadors entertained foreign guests with Moutai. All of them were the mouthpiece and propagators for Moutai. Their efforts had established Moutai's status as China's national liquor. Therefore, Moutai people had to maintain this status carefully, maintain the high quality of Moutai, and ensure that the Moutai brand never falls. (Moutai Newspaper)

中國駐外大使考察團到茅台考察 9 月 18 日，前駐德國大使馬燦榮，前駐日本大使、聯合國原副秘書

從事外交工作近四十年的張援遠大使也是第二次到茅台，張援遠

到茅台公司考察，受到了茅台集團公司黨委委員、貴州茅台酒股份有限

表示，茅台酒是做外交工作很好的幫手和很重要的朋友，和很多外國

公司副總經理杜光義及貴州茅台酒股份有限公司副總經理萬波等領導的

友人打交道都是從說茅台開始的，足見茅台在國外的知名度很高。

熱情接待。在萬波的陪同下，考察團一行深入公司包裝、制酒車間和茅台中國酒文化城，詳細瞭解茅台的地理環境、釀造工藝和國酒文化。

親切。」

長陳健，前駐比利時、新西蘭大使張援遠等組成的中國駐外大使考察團

茅台酒是中國的外交酒和友誼酒，中國外交和茅台有著密切的聯繫，茅台酒幫助中國打開了外交的大門，中國的外交也幫助茅台酒走向了世界。陳健大使表示，尼克森訪華、田中角榮訪華，周恩來總理

一到茅台鎮，空氣中的酒香就讓馬燦榮大使感到高興，他說：「我

都是用茅台酒宴請他們，周恩來總理就是茅台酒最好的代言人。我國

是茅台的忠實粉絲，這是我第二次來茅台酒廠了，為此感到特別的親切。

駐外大使都用茅台宴請國外貴賓，他們都是茅台酒的代言人和宣傳者。

感謝茅台為我國外交作出的獨特貢獻，在國外任職大使期間，我們都用

由此奠定的茅台酒的國酒地位，需要茅台人用心呵護，保證茅台酒的

茅台酒招待最尊貴的外國客人，一喝茅台，話匣子就打開了，談得非常

品質永遠不變，確保國酒的品牌永遠不倒。（茅台酒報）

MOUTAI Magazine

Moutai Won High Scores From "TASTED" Recently, two best sommeliers from the "TASTED" magazine, Andreas Larsson and Markus del Monego conducted a 100% blind taste for Kweichow Moutai and gave high scores. Mr. Markus del Monego gave Moutai 82 scores. His savoring record for this liquor was as follows: "Limpid and colourless. Strong nose with hints of cocoa and citrus fruit, ethereal and volatile flavour. On the palate aromatic, rustic finish." Mr. Andreas Larsson also gave Moutai 82 scores. His savoring record for this liquor was as follows: "Intense nose of ethanol and sweetness with herbal notes and spices. The palate is sweet, strong and heady with warm alcohol and a rustic finish with hints of dried fruit." "TASTED" is a professional tasting magazine with a blind tasting team formed by Mr. Markus del Monego, "Best Sommelier of the World 1998", and Mr. Andreas Larsson, "Best Sommelier of the World 2007". They use their complementary perspectives, unique insights, rich experience, as well as professional and just methods to recommend quality spirits to the public. Each year they conduct several blind tastings in a professional tasting room of Essen, Germany. The blind tasting process is very strict and standardized and their savoring results serve as very helpful references. (Cammy France)

Kweichow Moutai Listed in "Asia's 500 Most Influential Brands 2014", Ranking First in Food and Beverage Industry "The Asia's 500 Most Influential Brands 2014" by World Brand Lab and World Executive Group was released in Hong Kong on September 24. Kweichow Moutai ranked 81st in the overall ranking and first in the food and beverage industry. The evaluation criteria for "The Asia's 500 Most Influential Brands" are the brands' influences in Asia. The evaluation benchmarks include the brands' share of market, brand loyalty, and Asian leadership. 500 brands from 19 countries and regions this year were listed, with Korea's Samsung, Japan's Sony, and Japan's Toyota ranked as the top three, and with China, Japan, and Korea ranked as the top three countries. (World Brand Lab)

貴州茅台入選 2014 年《亞洲品牌 500 強》位列食品飲料行業品牌第一位由世界品牌實驗室和世界經理人集團共同編制和發佈的 2014 年《亞洲品牌 500 強》排行榜於 9 月 24 日在香港揭曉，貴州茅台位列食品飲料行業品牌第一位，總榜第八十一位。《亞洲品牌 500 強》(The Asia's 500 Most Influential Brands) 的評判標準是品牌的亞洲影響力，世界品牌實驗室 (World Brand Lab) 評價品牌影響力的基本指標包括市場佔有率 (Share of Market)、品牌忠誠度 (Brand Loyalty ) 和亞洲領導力 (Asian Leadership)。此次亞洲品牌 500 強共有 19 個國家和地區的 500 個品牌入選，韓國三星、日本索尼和日本豐田名列前三，中國、日本和韓國是入選品牌最多的三個國家。（世界品牌實驗室）

茅台酒獲 TASTED 品鑒高分近日，來自 TASTED 專業品酒報的兩位重量級人物安德烈亞斯拉爾森（Andreas Larsson）先生和馬庫斯德爾蒙戈 (Markus Del Monego) 先生對貴州茅台酒進行專業品鑒，並給予了很高的分數。馬庫斯德爾蒙戈先生給予茅台酒 82 分。他在品鑒筆記中這樣評價此款酒：「酒體清澈，無色透明。馥郁、飄逸、多變的酒香伴隨一絲可可和柑橘的清香。口感醇香，餘韻淳樸。」安德烈亞斯拉爾森先生同樣給予了 82 分，他在品鑒筆記中這樣描述此款酒：「酒香及甜香濃烈，透露著草本和香料的香氣，口感香甜、強勁、溫熱、令人陶醉，餘韻淳樸並帶有輕微的乾水果味道。」

Moutai Listed in the "Most Admired Chinese Companies" for Nine Consecutive Years In the "2014 Most Admired Chinese Companies" jointly released by the U.S. "Fortune" magazine and Hay Group on September 25, Kweichow Moutai was listed in both the "All-Star Rankings" and the "Food and Beverage Industry Rankings". Kweichow Moutai has been listed for nine consecutive years since the rankings were released for the first time in 2006. (Moutai Newspaper)

茅台連續 9 年入選「最受讚賞的中國公司」 9 月 25 日，美國《財富》雜誌聯合 Hay（合益）集團發佈了「2014

據悉，TASTED 專業品酒報是一份專業性品酒報刊，由曾在 1998

最受讚賞的中國公司」排行

年榮獲世界最佳品酒師稱號的馬庫斯德爾蒙戈和曾在 2007 年榮獲世

榜，中國貴州茅台酒廠有限

界最佳品酒師稱號的安德烈亞斯拉爾森兩位國際品酒大師組成盲品團

責任公司同時入選「全明星

隊，他們以互補的觀點、獨到的見解、豐富的經驗、專業和公正的方

榜」和「飲料食品行業榜」。

法向大眾推薦最優質的美酒。他們的盲品酒會一年中數次在德國埃森

自 2006 年該排行榜首次發佈

的專業品酒室進行，盲品過程非常嚴格規範，兩人的品鑒結果也具有

以來，貴州茅台已連續 9 年

很高的參考價值。（嘉美法國）

入榜。（茅台酒報）

MOUTAI Magazine

Seasonal and Comforting Specialties 秋冬滋補養生菜譜

fter consumption of an entire summer, it is very necessary to nourish the body in autumn and winter. The main nourishment of autumn is to moisten dryness, replenish Qi (energy), invigorate spleen, nourish liver, and clear lung-heat. As autumn approaches, Sha Tin 18, the show-kitchen restaurant at the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong is combining seasonal ingredients with traditional recipes to create a variety of authentic Dongguan specialties that will nourish the body and help maintain a healthy inner balance, which is the best demonstration for the expertise and care of the restaurant.

MOUTAI Magazine

Dry weather can be harsh on the skin, and even on the body's respiratory and immune systems. The best choice to strengthen one's physical condition and to get prepared for the cooler weather is nutritious soup. The nourishing "Sweetened fish maw" with red dates, brown sugar and ginger helps revitalize the skin and keep the body warm; the "Double-boiled pork consommé with black garlic" is good to health, as black garlic is useful in reducing blood lipid levels and is renowned for its anti-aging abilities; while the "Double-boiled fish maw with sea conch and green olives" offers mild sweetness and is a good source to alleviate sore throat. Historically a rural county, Dongguan

cuisine of south China emphasizes excellent culinary skills with simple ingredients. To exhibit a genuine rural influence and offer guests an authentic Dongguan gastronomic journey, however, is not easy. Only the chef with extremely rich experience can use simple and traditional ingredients to create diversified dishes. The "Braised taro with preserved clam paste" and the "Braised Ceylon spinach with Chinese preserved sausages" are the best seasonal selections; the "Pan-fried beef brisket with pineapple and preserved shrimp paste" is tender and its overall taste is enhanced by a rich and slightly sweetened sauce; the "Pan-fried cow's milk with crispy toasts" is silky smooth and crunchy, with a touch of saltiness that will tempt the taste buds for more. Located in the Pearl River Delta of China, Dongguan is famous for its freshwater catches. To capture their natural flavor, you can taste such seafood dishes as the flavorsome "Steamed red shrimp with rice cracker, Fa Dew wine and egg yolk sauce" and the succulent "Wok-fried garoupa with salted fish and spring onion", both of which offer the prominent scent of freshwater treasures. Those who are fond of sour and spicy food can pick the juicy "Pan-fried chicken with candied kumquat sauce" or the "Wok-fried beef with eggplant and Sichuan pepper". One should not leave without trying one of the delectable desserts. The "Preserved plum Opera with candied ginger" is nicely layered with a balance of sweet and sour flavors; "Apple vinegar and preserved prune sherbet" exudes a refreshing fruity taste, while the luscious "Sweet potato Swiss rolls with preserved prune" are truly satisfying, offering a mouthful of sweet temptation.

Preserved plum opera with candied ginger

Pan-fried beef brisket with pineapple

and preserved shrimp paste

Sweetened fish maw with red dates, brown sugar and ginger

經過整個夏天的消耗，在秋冬季節調補一下身體是非常有必要的。秋季的養生以潤燥益氣為主，以健脾補肝清肺為要旨。踏入乾燥的季節，精心挑選時令及養生食材，配合傳統家庭式烹調手法，為賓客帶來滋潤補身的特色佳餚最能體現香港沙田 18 的專業及用心。乾燥天氣容易影響身體狀態，品嘗一碗熱騰騰的湯羹有助提升身心健康。因此，潤澤味蕾，最好的選擇莫過於營養豐富的湯水。滋補暖胃的「薑茶燉花膠」，含豐富骨膠原的花膠配合黑糖與紅棗，絕對是女士的恩物；「養生黑蒜燉肉汁」中的黑蒜有降血脂與抗養化的作用，有助增強人體免疫能力；而清甜滋潤的「青橄欖螺頭燉花膠」能舒緩咽喉疼痛，亦有清熱生津之效。南中國的東莞菜式一向講究烹調功夫，製法簡易。但要體現濃厚的家鄉風味，使賓客有如置身當地體驗其飲食文化也非易事，只有經驗老道的主廚才能採用簡單傳統的用料炮製出豐富菜式。粉糯入味的「淡菜蜆芥煮芋頭」及「東莞臘腸粒扒豆苗」就是最好的時令之選；鹹甜有致的「馬拉盞鳳梨煎牛腩」軟稔可口，富有地道特色的「大良牛乳煎窩貼」口感豐富，都會令人一試再試。位於中國珠江口岸、盡享得天獨厚的地理環境使東莞的海鮮菜式馳名中外。以新鮮水產及創新烹調配搭創作的「花雕雞油蒸牡丹蝦伴米通」肉質彈牙、脂香醉人；滑溜細膩的「梅香馬友炒龍躉球」以鹹香誘人的馬友為魚脂豐腴的龍躉提味，嫩滑無比。如果你嗜酸或辣，建議品嘗別具風味的家鄉小菜，如酸香開胃的「蜜餞柑桔煎鮮雞」及辛辣撲鼻的「砵仔麻辣茄瓜炒牛肉」，稍稍刺激一下味蕾也會帶來別樣感受。為令整頓餐饗更臻完美，又怎能錯過別研製的創意甜品 ? 層層疊疊的「珍珠李糖薑蛋糕」酸甜滋味；獨特新穎的「相思梅蘋果醋雪芭」入口清新；濃滑細緻的「紫薯嘉應子瑞士卷」則口感豐盈，味道馥郁芳香，讓人再三回味。

Sha Tin 18 Lunch

Monday to Friday: 11:30 AM to 3:00 PM / Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays: 10:30 AM to 3:00 PM

Dinner

Daily 5:30 PM to 10:30 PM

Reservations

3723 1234 / hongkong.shatin@hyatt.com

Online booking

hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com

Address

4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong

Facebook

facebook.com/HyattRegencyHongKongShaTin