Evliya Celebi

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400. Do¤um y›l›nda Evliya Çelebi EVLIYA ÇELEBI ON THE FOUR HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS BIRTH Prof. Dr. Bekir Karl›¤a Medeniyetler ‹ttifak› Türkiye Eflgüdüm Komitesi Baflkan› Chairman of the Turkish Coordination Committee of Alliance of Civilizations

UNESCO, 2011 y›l›n› "Do¤umunun 400. Y›l›nda Evliya Çelebi Y›l›" ilan etti. Osmanl› Devleti’nin hudutlar› dâhilindeki yerleri ve çevre bölgeleri bizzat gezip görerek tan›tmakla kalmay›p ayn› zamanda bize dünya seyahat edebiyat›n›n flaheserlerinden birini de arma¤an eden Evliya Çelebi, bizim kültürümüzün en önemli kiflilerinden birisi oldu¤u kadar, eflsiz üslubu ile bizi adeta hayallerin ötesine bir gezintiye götüren, on yedinci yüzy›l›n önde gelen kültür adamlar›ndan birisidir.

UNESCO has declared two thousand eleven the year of Evliya Çelebi on the fourhundredth anniversary of his birth. Evliya Çelebi not only bequeathed us one of the masterpieces of world travel literature but personally toured and provided his eyewitness account of the lands of the Ottoman Empire and its environs, and is one of the most important personalities in our cultural history as well as a prominent seventeenth-century man of culture whose matchless writing style takes us on a journey beyond our wildest dreams.


UNESCO 2009 y›l›n› da, Kâtip Çelebi Y›l› ilan etmiflti. Bu vesile ile Bahçeflehir Üniversitesi Medeniyet Araflt›rmalar› Merkezi (MEDAM) olarak 2009-2010 y›llar› boyunca bir dizi program yapt›k. Dünyan›n önemli baflkentlerinde sergiler açt›k, paneller düzenledik. Uluslararas› bir sempozyum ile bu büyük bilginin çal›flmalar›n› gözler önüne sermeye çal›flt›k. Cihan-nümâ isimli ünlü eserinin t›pk›bas›m›n› yapt›k, bugünkü dile aktard›k ve ‹ngilizce tercümesini tamamlad›k.

UNESCO also declared two thousand nine the year of Katip Çelebi. In that connection we at the Bahçeflehir University Civilizations Study Center (MEDAM) created a series of supporting programs during two thousand nine-two thousand ten. We staged exhibitions and conferences in major world cities. We put the works of the great scholar before the public with an international symposium. We published a facsimile edition of his renowned work, Cihan-Nüma, producing a modernized version of the text and an English translation.

Evliya Çelebi’nin 400. do¤um y›l› vesilesiyle de Baflbakanl›k Türk Tan›tma Fonu Genel Sekreterli¤i’nin deste¤iyle, T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanl›¤› ve UNESCO Türkiye Milli Komitesi ile birlikte kapsaml› bir proje haz›rlad›k. Bu projede Evliya Çelebi’nin yaflad›¤› dönemi ve olaylar› konu alan sempozyumlar, konferanslar, paneller, sergiler tasarlad›k.

In connection with the four-hundredth anniversary of Evliya Çelebi’s birth, and with the support of the Prime Minister’s Turkish Public Relations Fund General Secretariat, we have prepared a wide-ranging project in partnership with the Turkish Republic Ministry of Culture and Tourism and the UNESCO Turkey National Committee. For this project we designed a series of exhibitions, conferences and symposiums on the era of Evliya Çelebi and its significant events.

Evliya Çelebi Atlas› ile onun gidip gördü¤ü yerleri dünü ve bugünü ile birlikte tan›tmay› planlad›k. Ayr›ca onun gezdi¤i ülkelerin kültürel kurumlar›yla iflbirli¤i yaparak de¤iflik dillerde “Evliya Çelebi’nin Ülkeleri ve fiehirleri” bafll›¤› alt›nda yay›nlar yapmaya çal›flaca¤›z. Söz konusu ülkelere ve kentlere

With Evliya Çelebi Atlas, we aim to introduce the past and the present of the lands he traveled. We will furthermore work in partnership with the cultural institutions of


geziler tertip edecek, belgesel haz›rlayacak ve çocuk filmleri yapaca¤›z. Tabii ki ülkemizdeki pek çok kültürel kurum ve kurulufl da bu alanda çal›flmalar yapmakta, plan ve projeler haz›rlamaktad›r. Biz, Kültür ve Turizm Bakanl›¤›’n›n koordinasyonunda bu kurum ve kurulufllar›n yetkilileriyle toplant›lar yapmak suretiyle bizim projemizde bulunup da onlar taraf›ndan yap›lmas›n›n daha uygun olaca¤› kanaatine vard›¤›m›z etkinliklerin onlar taraf›ndan yap›lmas›n› kararlaflt›rarak tekrardan kaç›nd›k.

those countries to produce publications on “The Countries and Cities of Evliya Çelebi” in various languages. We will organize tours of those countries and cities, and produce documentary and children’s films. Certainly there are many cultural organizations and institutions in our country currently working in this field, and producing plans and projects. Under the auspices of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, we have met with their directors to ensure that they carry out the activities better performed by them and thus avoid duplication of effort.

19 Ocak 2011 tarihinde, UNESCO Genel Direktörü Say›n Irina Bokova, Devlet Bakan› ve Medeniyetler ‹ttifak› Türkiye Efl-Baflkan› Say›n Prof. Dr. Mehmet Ayd›n ve Devlet Bakan› Say›n Egemen Ba¤›fl'›n kat›l›m›yla, T.C. Baflbakanl›k ‹stanbul Dolmabahçe Ofisi Sergi Salonu’nda “Evliya Çelebi’nin ‹stanbul’u” konulu bir sergi açt›k.

With the participation of UNESCO General Director Irina Bokova, State Minister and Co-Director of Alliance of Civilizations Turkey Professor Doctor Mehmet Ayd›n and State Minister Egemen Ba¤›fl, January Nineteenth Two Thousand Eleven, we launched the exhibition “Evliya Çelebi’s Istanbul” at the Turkish Republic Prime Ministry Dolmabahçe Office Exhibition Hall.

26 fiubat 2011 tarihinde, Ankara Devlet Resim ve Heykel Müzesi salonlar›nda, “Evliya Çelebi’nin Anadolu’su” konulu sergileri aç›yoruz.

On twenty sixth February two thousand eleven we will inaugurate the exhibit “Evliya Çelebi’s Anatolia” at the Ankara State Painting and Sculpture Museum.

u sergide biz Evliya Çelebi’nin hayat›n›, eserlerini ve gezip gördü¤ü flehirleri ön plana ç›karmaya çal›flt›k. Onun yaflad›¤› dönemi yans›tan görsel materyaller modernize edilerek günümüze aktar›ld›. Bu materyallerde flehir dokular›n› daha iyi yans›tabilmek amac›yla ilgili gravürler tercih edildi. ‹nsan figürü olarak da, Osmanl› atmosferini, sanat›n› ve Evliya Çelebi’nin mensup bulundu¤u kültür

In the exhibit we have endeavored to feature Evliya Çelebi’s life, works, and the cities he traveled through. Visual materials which reflect the era in which he lived have been modernized for today’s viewer. Among these materials engravings have been preferred for their capacity to better project the fabric of cities. For the human figure, miniatures have been selected to display Ottoman arts

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havzas›n›n izlerini yans›tmas› bak›m›ndan minyatürler seçildi.

and atmosphere and the cultural environment Evliya Çelebi was living in.

Ayr›ca Evliya Çelebi’nin, bir üslup harikas› olan anlat›m›n› günümüze yans›tmak için, eserinden seçti¤imiz baz› pasajlar› hem orijinal diliyle, hem bugünün Türkçesiyle hem de ‹ngilizce olarak panolara aktard›k. Seyahatname’nin her bir cildinin tan›t›m› için ayr› bir pano haz›rlad›k. Panolar›n bafll›klar›n› da yine onun eserinden ald›k.

In order to reflect the stylistic wonder of Evliya Çelebi’s writing for modern audience, we have also produced exhibit panels giving selections from his work in the original Ottoman, modern Turkish paraphrase, and English translation. Each volume of his Book of Travels is represented on separate panels. The panel titles are also taken from his work.

Y›l boyunca di¤er büyük flehirlerimizde de tekrarlanacak "Evliya Çelebi’nin Anadolusu"temal› sergilerin üçüncüsü 23 Mart 2011 tarihinde Kütahya’da aç›lacakt›r. Evliya Çelebi’nin ülkeleri konulu sergi Paris, Viyana, Kahire ve Saraybosna baflta olmak üzere bu büyük gezginin ziyaret etti¤i öteki ülkelerin baflkentlerinde de tekrarlanacakt›r.

Of the exhibitions themed “Evliya Çelebi’s Anatolia” to be repeated in our other major cities throughout the year; the third will be in Kütahya on 23rd March 2011. “Evliya Çelebi’s Countries” exhibition will be in capitals like Paris, Vienna, Cairo and Sarajevo, and of other countries the great traveler visited.

Evliya Çelebi, bizim co¤rafyam›z›n, bizim dilimizin, bizim kültürümüzün, bizim medeniyetimizin mümtaz bir flahsiyetidir. Ama o, ayn› zamanda genifl Osmanl› co¤rafyas› içinde yer alan veya onu çevreleyen K›ta Avrupas›, Ortado¤u ve Kafkaslar’›n çok kültürlü yap›s›n› bize yak›ndan tan›tan, döneminin tan›¤› bir medeniyet tafl›y›c›s› ve bir bar›fl elçisidir. UNESCO, do¤umunun 400. y›l›nda Evliya Çelebi’nin engin ufkunu ve zengin dünyas›n› günümüz insanlar›na tan›tma f›rsat›n› ve imkân›n› sa¤layarak büyük bir kültür hizmetini yerine getirmifltir. Biz de bir nebze olsun bu kervana kat›lmak istedik. Sayg›lar›m›zla.

Evliya Çelebi is a preeminent figure for our region, our language, our culture, and our civilization. But he is also a bearer of civilization and ambassador of peace who witnessed and described to us his own experiences in an era when the broad Ottoman geography embraced the multicultural fabric of the European continent, the Middle East and the Caucasus. UNESCO, by giving us the opportunity to make known today the vast horizon and rich world of Evliya Çelebi on the four hundredth anniversary of his birth, has performed a great cultural service. We offer our gratitude to all who have contributed their efforts in this regard. Humbly, we too wish to join this caravan. Best regards.


On the occasion of the inauguration of the Evliya Çelebi Exhibition EVL‹YA ÇELEB‹ SERG‹S‹’N‹N AÇILIfi TÖREN‹ SEBEB‹YLE By Irina Bokova Director-General of UNESCO UNESCO Genel Direktörü

Your Excellency Minister of State Professor Dr Mehmet Aydin,

Sayg›de¤er Devlet Bakan›; Profesör Dr. Mehmet Ayd›n,

Your Excellency Minister of Culture and Tourism Mr Ertu¤rul Gunay,

Sayg›de¤er Kültür ve Turizm Bakan›; Say›n Ertu¤rul Günay,

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Bayanlar ve Baylar,

At the meeting of the UNESCO General Conference in 2009, Member States decided that the Organization will be associated with the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the birth of Evliya Çelebi.

UNESCO’nun 2009 y›l›nda gerçeklefltirilen Genel Konferans toplant›s›nda, üye devletler Organizasyon’un Evliya Çelebi’nin 400’üncü yafl günü kutlamalar›yla birlefltirilmesine karar verdiler.


It is a pleasure and an honour to participate in the inauguration of this exhibition on Evliya Çelebi and Istanbul of the 17th century. The life of Evliya Çelebi is simply fascinating. The scope of his interests and the breadth of his passions are inspiring. He was an intrepid traveller and a great writer and scholar. He was also an artist – a trained calligraphist, painter, poet and musician. Sayahatname (“The Book of Travels”) is driven by the profound sense of wonder that Evliya Çelebi felt for the world around him, for the peoples that inhabited it, for their languages, customs and practices – in sum, for the great diversity of humanity.

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his exhibition pays tribute to the rich diversity and beauty of Istanbul. Istanbul was designated the 2010 European Capital of Culture. The truth is that it has always been a world capital. Evliya Çelebi combined this wonder with a clear method. Working four hundred years ago, Evliya Çelebi developed a rigorous approach to the study of the peoples and cultures he encountered. He explored their economic, social, cultural and political features and he recorded their languages and dialects. His methodology stands very well the test of time. His work remains a reference for scholars today.

Evliya Çelebi ve 17. yüzy›l ‹stanbul’uyla ilgili bu serginin aç›l›fl töreninde yer almak benim için büyük bir zevk ve onur. Evliya Çelebi’nin hayat› tek kelimeyle büyüleyici. ‹lgi alanlar›n›n kapsam› ve tutkular›n›n derinli¤i gerçekten de ilham verici. O, gözü kara bir gezgin, harika bir yazar ve alimdi. O ayn› zamanda - e¤itimli bir hattat, ressam, flair ve müzisyen - bir sanatç›yd›. Seyahatname Evliya Çelebi’nin çevresindeki dünyaya, bu dünyay› kendilerine mesken tutmufl insanlara, bu insanlar›n dillerine, geleneklerine ve mesleklerine, yani toplamda insanl›¤›n bu inan›lmaz ölçüdeki çeflitlili¤ine karfl› duydu¤u derin merak duygusunun ortaya ç›kard›¤› bir üründür. Bu sergi, bizim ‹stanbul’un zengin çeflitlili¤ine ve güzelli¤ine duydu¤umuz hayranl›¤›m›z› sunmaktad›r. ‹stanbul 2010 Avupa Kültür Baflkenti olarak belirlenmifltir. Gerçek flu ki; ‹stanbul her zaman bir dünya baflkenti olmufltur. Evliya Çelebi bu mucizeyi aç›k bir yöntemle birlefltirmifltir. Bundan dörtyüz y›l önce çal›flan Evliya Çelebi karfl›laflt›¤› insanlar› ve kültürleri incelemek için çok özenli bir yaklafl›m gelifltirmifltir. Onlar›n ekonomilerini, sosyal, kültürel ve siyasi özelliklerini keflfetmifl, dillerini ve lehçelerini kaydetmifltir. Onun metodolojisi zaman›n s›nav› karfl›s›nda gerçekten de iyi ayakta kalm›flt›r. Çal›flmalar› günümüz alimleri için bir kaynak olmay› sürdürmektedir.


The ten volumes of Sayahatname are also one of the first and most compelling examples of travel writing. This also makes his work unique. Evliya Çelebi brought himself to the text. He peppered his work with his own insights and perceptions, and he wrote in a clear and direct style.

Seyahatname’nin on cildi ayn› zamanda seyahat yaz›lar›n›n ilk ve en etkili örnekleri olarak nitelendirilebilir. Bu da onun çal›flmalar›n› eflsiz k›lmaktad›r. Evliya Çelebi metne kendisini koymufltur. Çal›flmas›n› kendi kavray›fl ve görüfllerine göre çeflnilendirmifl ve bunlar› yazarken aç›k ve do¤rudan bir üslup kullanm›flt›r.

This blend of wonder, method and personality make Sayahatname one of our great texts - a tribute to the genius of this land and to the curiosity in the ‘other’ that we all share and brings us together as a single humanity.

Bu mucizenin, yöntemin ve kiflili¤in kar›fl›m› Seyahatname’yi bizim en fevkalade yaz›lar›m›zdan biri -bu topraklar›n dahisine ve “öteki”ne duyulan, hepimizin paylaflt›¤› ve bizi tek bir insanl›k olarak bir araya getiren meraka bir övgü- yapm›flt›r.

Thank you for this exhibition.

Bu sergi için çok teflekkür ederim.

Istanbul, 19 January 2011

‹stanbul, 19 Ocak 2011



Bir Medeniyet Gezgininin ‹zinde FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF A PILGRIM OF CIVILIZATION Prof. Dr. Bekir Karl›¤a

Medeniyetlerin yak›ndan tan›klar› olan gezginler, coflkun akan ›rmaklara benzerler. Gezip gördükleri yerlerdeki medeniyet birikimlerini bize aktar›rlar. Durmadan, yorulmadan, b›kmadan geçmiflten gelece¤e hep bilgi tafl›rlar, görgü tafl›rlar, kültür tafl›rlar. Her medeniyet ayn› zamanda kendi gezginlerini de yetifltirir. Gezginin gezme merak›, aflk› ve tutkusu, yaflad›¤› medeniyet havzas›n› derinli¤i ile mütenasiptir. Daha zengin bir medeniyet havzas›nda yetiflen gezginler, adeta kanatlanarak bütün evreni yücelerden seyretmek isterler. Hem kendi medeniyet birikimlerini dünyaya tafl›rlar, hem de

Travelers who witness civilizations for themselves are like ardently flowing rivers. They convey to us the accumulation of civilization in the places they visit. Ceaselessly, tirelessly, insatiably, they continuously bear knowledge from past to future, conveying experience, conveying culture. Each civilization trains its own travelers. The curiosity which spurs a person to travel, his desire and passion for it, is commensurate with the depth of the basin of civilization in which he lives. Travelers who grow up in a richer basin of civilization virtually take wing, yearning to view the entire universe from the heights. They both



öteki medeniyet havzalar›n›n zengin ürünlerini bölgelerine aktarmak, anlatmak ve tan›tmak isterler. Üç k›taya yay›lm›fl bulunan ihtiflaml› “Devlet-i Aliyye-i Osmaniye”nin yani Yüce Osmanl› Devleti’nin sahip bulundu¤u hazineleri bize aktarmaya çal›flan Evliya Çelebi iflte bu anlamda bir medeniyet gezginidir. Kendisini sürekli “Evliyâ-y› bî-riyâ” olarak tan›tan, ata binip cirit oynayan ve ömrünün 40 y›l›n› seyahat ile geçiren bu büyük gezginin, iyi e¤itim görmüfl, üslup sahibi bir edip, flair, hattat, nakkafl, musikiflinas, zarif ve entelektüel bir ‹stanbul çelebisi oldu¤u anlafl›lmaktad›r.

convey the accumulation of their own civilization to the world, and seek to convey, to describe and make known the rich fruits of other basins of civilization to their own regions. It is in this sense that Evliya Çelebi, who sought to convey to us the treasures of “the Sublime Ottoman State,” spread over three continents, is a civilization voyager. We know that this great traveler, who called himself “God’s Sincere Friend, played polo and spent forty years of his life on the road, was a well-educated literary man with his own style, a calligrapher, a painter, a music-lover, a refined and intellectual Istanbul gentleman.

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Öylesine bir gönül zenginli¤ine sahiptir ki, bu muhteflem imparatorlu¤un en üst kademesinde görev alan devlet ricalinin yönetici kadrosunun en yak›n›nda yer ald›¤› halde asla makam, mevki ve mans›b derdine düflmemifl, eserinde kendi ad›n› dahi gizleyerek hocas›n›n lakab›yla an›lmay› tercih etmifltir.

e had such richness of heart that although he frequented the circles of statesmen who occupied the highest administrative positions in that magnificent empire, he never pursued high position himself and never even mentioned his own name in his work, preferring to be remembered by the sobriquet of his teacher.

O, art›k son bulmaya bafllayan muhteflem Osmanl› rüyas›n›n efsanevi an›lar›n› yeniden canland›rma ifltiyak› ile yan›p tutuflur. Hep bu eski rüyan›n sürüp gitmesini arzular. Bu nedenle de eserini rüyalar üzerine kurulu bir an›lar manzumesi gibi planlam›fl gözüküyor. Devrinin pek çok ayd›n› gibi, kulaklar› Kanunî döneminin muhteflem an›lar›yla dolup taflm›fl olan Evliya Çelebi bu ihtiflam›, flaheser bir ifade ve abart› dolu bir üslup ile gözler önüne sermeyi amaçlar.

He burned with desire and longing to revive the fabulous memory of a magnificent Ottoman dream which had at last begun to come to an end. He wanted that dream to abide forever, and thus it appears that he planned his work as a fabric of memories built on dreams. Like many illuminati of his age, Evliya Çelebi’s ears had been filled with marvelous tales of the Lawgiver’s reign, and he aimed to put that magnificence before us in an expressive masterwork of stylistic excess.



Onuncu yüzy›ldan itibaren say›lar› h›zla artan seyyahlar, genifl ‹slam co¤rafyas›n›n yan› s›ra bilinen dünyan›n ulaflabildikleri bölümlerini de bize tan›tmaya çal›fl›rlar. Böylece ortaya zengin bir seyahat literatürü ç›kar. Bu literatür ayn› zamanda bize ‹slam medeniyetinin geliflim seyrini de gösterir. ‹slam dünyas›nda ünlü seyahatname yazarlar› aras›nda ‹bn Fadlan, ‹bn Havkal, fierif el-‹drisî, ‹bn Cübeyr ve ünlü gezgin ‹bn Batuta gibi isimler öne ç›ksa da, dünya seyahat literatürünün önde gelen isimleri aras›nda Evliya Çelebi’yi baflta saymak gerekir.

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vliya Çelebi, 1040 y›l› Muharrem ay›n›n kutlu Aflure günü (19 A¤ustos 1630) sabah namaz› vaktinde mana âleminde kendisini ‹stanbul’da Yemifl ‹skelesi civar›ndaki Ahi Çelebi Camii’nde bulur. Minberin yan›nda oturarak camiyi dolduran ayd›nl›k yüzlü, güzel görünümlü seçkin cemaati hayranl›kla izler. Önce yan›nda oturan ve kim oldu¤unu bilmedi¤i zata sorar. O, aflere-i mübeflflereden okçular›n Piri Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas oldu¤unu bildirince ayr› bir coflkuya kap›l›r ve cemaatin teker teker ismini sorar. Bunlar›n gelmifl geçmifl bütün peygamberlerin, velilerin ve sahabelerin ruhlar› oldu¤unu ö¤renir. Bu yüce ruhlar›n Azak Savafl›’na kat›lmak üzere burada toplanm›fl olduklar› bilgisini al›r. Rehberi ona, birazdan Hz. Peygamber’in Oniki ‹mam ve Aflere-i Mübeflflere ile birlikte gelip sabah namaz›n›n sünnetini

The travelers whose numbers increased sharply from the thirteenth century on tried to describe for us all the parts of the known world they were able to reach, as well as the broad geography of Islam. This literature also reveals to us the progress of development within Islamic civilization. While the names of such famous travel book authors as Ibn Fadlan, Ibn Hawqal, Sharif al-Idrisî, Ibn Jubayr and the renowned Ibn Batuta may be more prominent, Evliya Çelebi must be counted first among writers of world travel literature. On the auspicious day of Aflure in the month of Muharrem in the year 1040 (19 August 1630), Evliya Çelebi found himself in the spiritual world at the Ahi Çelebi Mosque near Yemifl Bridge in Istanbul at the time of the dawn prayer. He sat by the pulpit and watched with awe as the bright-faced and beautiful, select congregation filled the mosque. First he enquired of a gentleman he did not know who sat beside him and said that he was Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas, Sage of archers and one of the Ten Companions of the Prophet Muhammed informed by him that they would enter Paradise. Evliya Çelebi was then swept up by a new kind of joy and asked the names of every man in the congregation one by one. He learned that they were the spirits of all the prophets, friends of God and companions of Muhammed who had ever lived. He was told they had gathered here in order to fight in the Battle of Azov. Evliya Çelebi’s guide gave him the good news that in a short while the Prophet Muhammed



k›laca¤›n› ve kendisine iflaret ederek kamet getirip Bilal-i Habeflî ile birlikte müezzinlik yapmas›n› isteyece¤ini müjdeler. Evliya Çelebi biraz sonra caminin kap›s›ndan flimflek çakar gibi bir ›fl›¤›n belirdi¤ini, içi zaten nur ile dopdolu olan caminin nura gark oldu¤unu fark eder.

would arrive to perform the dawn prayer with the Twelve Imams and the Ten Companions, and would signal to him to announce and perform the call to prayer with Bilal al-Habashi. A short while later Evliya Çelebi saw a light appear like a bolt of lightning at the mosque door, and realized that the mosque, already filled with light, was plunged in a sea of light.

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Mihraba geçen Hz. Peygamber, sabah namaz›n›n sünnetini k›ld›ktan sonra, Evliya Çelebi’ye kamet getirmesini emreder, o da segâh makam›nda salât ve selam getirdikten sonra Bilal-i Habeflî ile birlikte kamet getirir. Namazdan sonra Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas elinden tutarak Hz. Peygamber’in huzuruna götürür ve “Sad›k âfl›k›n, müfltak ümmetin, Evliya kulun flefaatini rica eder” diye niyazda bulunur. Bu esnada heyecana kap›larak a¤lamaya bafllayan Evliya Çelebi, Hz. Peygamber’in elini öper ve “fiefaat ya Resulallah” diyece¤ine “Seyahat ya Resulallah” der. Hz. Peygamber tebessüm ederek “fiefaatim, seyahatim ve ziyaretim senin üzerinedir, hadi yürü” buyurur. Evliya’y› elinden tutup Hz. Peygamber’e takdim eden Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas, belinden sada¤›n› ç›kar›p ona kuflat›r ve “Müjdeler olsun! Bu mecliste gördü¤ün her kesin makam›n› ziyaret edecek ve ‘Seyyâh-› Âlem, Ferîd-i Benî Âdem’ olacaks›n” der. Ve iflte böylece bafllar bu ünlü gezginin seyahat maceras›.

Camide bulunanlar›n kimisinin eli misk, kimisinin anber, kimisinin sünbül, kimisinin gül, kimisinin reyhan, kimisinin safran, kimisinin menekfle, kimisinin

he Prophet Muhammed went to the pulpit and after performing the dawn prayer, commanded Evliya Çelebi to announce the call to prayer. He pronounced blessings and peace in the mode of Segâh and then, together with Bilal al-Habeshi, announced the call to prayer. After the prayer Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas took Evliya Çelebi by the hand and brought him into the presence of the Prophet, saying: “Your faithful lover, your ardent community, your servant Evliya seeks your intercession.” Swept away by emotion, Evliya Çelebi broke down weeping and kissed the Prophet’s hand, saying, “I seek travel (seyahat), O Messenger of God,” instead of, “I seek intercession (fiefaat).” The Prophet smiled and said, “You have my intercession, my traveling and my visiting, off with you now.” Having taken “God’s Sincere Friend” Evliya Çelebi by the hand and presented him to the Prophet, Sa‘d ibn Ebi Vakkas removed the quiver from his belt and girded him with it, saying: “Good news! You will visit the station of each man you see in this congregation and become “Traveler of the World, Unique among Mankind.” Thus began the adventures of this renowned traveler.



karanfil gibi koktu¤unu gören Evliya Çelebi, Hz. Peygamber’in bedeninin safran ve aç›lm›fl gül gibi koktu¤unu, mübarek ellerinin de pamuk gibi yumuflak oldu¤unu söyler. Evliya Çelebi, önce “Darü’s-Saltanati’lAliyye, Hasretü’l-Mülûk, Taht-› Yunaniyan, Gulgule-i Rum, Tantana-i Rum, Velvele-i Rum, Debdebe-i Rum” dedi¤i ve yeryüzünde efli benzeri bulunmayan bir diyar olarak tan›tt›¤› ‹stanbul’un de¤iflik semtlerini gezer, görür ve anlat›r. Bursa, ‹zmit gezisinden sonra babas›n›n manevi o¤ullu¤u Ketenci Ömer Pafla’n›n Trabzon valisi olmas› üzerine onunla birlikte Trabzon’a, oradan Anapa’ya, oradan da Azak Seferi’ne kat›larak K›r›m’a gider ve Bahad›r Han’a misafir olur.

Y

Evliya Çelebi realized that the hands of those in the mosque smelled variously of musk, amber, hyacinth, rose, basil, saffron, violet, and cloves, and tells us that the Prophet’s body smelled of saffron and rose, and his hands were soft as cotton fluff. Evliya Çelebi first visited and described the neighborhoods “Darü’s-Saltanati’l-Aliyye, Hasretü’l-Mülûk, Taht-› Yunaniyan, Gulgule-i Rum, Tantana-i Rum, Velvele-i Rum, Debdebe-i Rum” of Istanbul, which he characterized as a land without peer on the face of the earth. He traveled to Bursa and Izmit, and to Trabzon when his father’s spiritual son Ketenci Ömer Pafla became governor there. He went on to Anapa, and from there to the Crimea, where he was a guest of Bahad›r Han, to join the Azov campaign.

usuf Pafla ile birlikte Girit seferine ifltirak eder. Defterdarzade Mehmet Pafla’n›n maiyetine dâhil olarak Erzurum, Azerbaycan ve Gürcistan’a giden Evliya, Murtaza Pafla ile birlikte fiam’a gider. Suriye, Filistin, Güneydo¤u Anadolu kentlerinden geçerek Sivas’a gelir

He participated in the Crete campaign with Yusuf Pasha. He went to Erzurum, Azerbaijan and Georgia as a member of Defterdarzade Mehmet Pasha’s retinue, and to Damascus with Murtaza Pasha. After visiting the cities of Syria, Palestine and the Anatolian southeast, he came to Sivas.

Çok sayg› duydu¤u ve annesi taraf›ndan akrabas› olan Melek Ahmet Pafla ile yolculu¤unu sürdüren Evliya Çelebi onunla birlikte genifl Osmanl› co¤rafyas›nda uzun süren seyahatlerde bulunur. Rumeli’yi gezer, ‹ran, Irak bölgesinde dolafl›r, Ruslar ve Kazaklara karfl› yap›lan seferlere kat›l›r.

Evliya Çelebi continued his travels in the company of Melek Ahmet Pasha, to whom he was related through his mother and much respected. With him he made long journeys through the wide geography of the Ottoman Empire. He traveled through the Ottoman West, through Iran and Iraq, and joined campaigns against the Russians and Kazakhs.

Faz›l Ahmet Pafla ile Avusturya’ya gider, Uyvar Kalesi’nin fethinde bulunur. Daha

With Faz›l Ahmet Pasha he went to Austria and participated in the capture of Nové



sonra Hersek üzerinden Venedik’e geçer ve çevrede bulunan yerleri gezer. Oradan Macaristan’a geçer. Elçi Kara Mehmet Pafla ile birlikte Viyana’ya gider Almanya içlerinde geziler yapar. Bohemya ve ‹sveç’e gitti¤ini belirten Evliya Çelebi, K›r›m üzerinden Kafkasya’ya geçmifl, Volga boylar›n› dolaflm›fl, Azak Kalesi’ni, Kefe’yi ve Bahçesaray’› ziyaret etmifltir.

Zámky Fortress. Later he went on to Venice by way of Herzegovina and visited sites in the surrounding countryside. From there he traveled to Hungary. With Ambassador Kara Mehmet Pasha he went to Vienna and took trips through the German interior. Evliya Çelebi tells us that he also visited Bohemia and Switzerland. He went on to the Crimea and the Caucasus and traveled the shores of the Volga, visiting the Fortress of Azov, Feodosiya and Bakhchisaray.

H

Art›k o, bir dünya gezginidir. ‹mparatorluk hudutlar› içinde ve çevresinde gezip görmedi¤i, dolafl›p gelmedi¤i yer kalmam›fl gibidir. “Evliyâ-y› bî-riyâ” 1671 y›l›nda bir rüya daha görür. Mübarek bir Kadir gecesinde Eyüp Sultan Camii’nde namaz k›lmaktad›r. Babas› Dervifl Mehmet Z›llî Efendi ile Hocas› Evliya Efendi de orada haz›r bulunurlar. Her ikisi de kendisine, bütün dünyay› gezdi¤ini, flark› ve garb› dolaflt›¤›n›, art›k Allah’›n evini, Kâbe-i Muazzama’y› ziyaret edip anlatmas›n›n zaman› geldi¤ini söylerler. Böylece yeni bir yolculu¤a daha ç›kmaya karar verir.

O y›l›n May›s ay›nda ‹stanbul’dan ayr›l›r. Bursa, Kütahya, Afyon üzerinden ‹zmir’e geçer. Buradan gemi ile Güney Ege ve Akdeniz sahillerini dolaflarak Adana Marafl, Antep ve Kilis üzerinden fiam’a gider. Adet oldu¤u üzere fiam’da toplanan Hac kafileleriyle birlikte Arabistan çöllerini aflarak mukaddes topraklara var›r. Hac farizas›n› ifa eder ve bu esnada gördüklerini anlatt›ktan sonra K›z›ldeniz yoluyla Kahire’ye geçer. ‹stanbul’dan sonra en uzun anlatt›¤› yer Kahire’dir.

e was now truly a world traveler. It seemed there was no place left within and around the borders of the Empire that he had not seen. “God’s Sincere Friend” would have another dream in 1671. He saw himself praying at the Eyüp Sultan Mosque on the blessed Night of Power during Ramazan. His father Dervifl Mehmet Z›llî Efendi and his teacher Evliya Efendi were also present. They told him that he had traveled the whole world from East to West and now the time had come for him to go to Mecca to visit the Kaaba and write about that. Thus he made the decision to dive into the ocean of eternity and go on one more journey. He left Istanbul in May of that year. He went to Izmir by way of Bursa, Kütahya and Afyon. From there he sailed down the shores of the southern Agean and Mediterranean, going on to Damascus by way of Adana, Marash, Antep and Kilis. He joined the Hajj caravans which traditionally gathered in Damascus and journeyed over the Arabian desert to the sacred precincts. He performed the obligatory pilgrimage rites and wrote



Belki de bu iki flehrin iki büyük ‹slam devletine baflkentlik yapm›fl olmas›ndan veya kendi zaman›nda ‹slam medeniyetinin yaflayan iki örnek flehri olmas›ndan dolay› böyle yapm›flt›r. Buradan ‹skenderiye’ye geçer ve Afrika içlerinde gezintiye ç›kar. Nil boyunca ilerleyerek Sudan’a ulafl›r. Buradan mübarek Nil’in kayna¤›n› görmek ister ve Osmanl› s›n›rlar›n› aflarak Afrika içlerinde dolafl›r. Habeflistan üzerinden tekrar M›s›r’a döner.

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ayat›n›n bundan sonraki k›sm› hakk›nda bir fley bilmiyoruz. Art›k rüyalar› son bulmufl, ufuklar›n ötesine do¤ru sonsuzluk yolculu¤una bafllam›flt›r. Mum söner, hayat biter, soluk kesilir, kalem düfler ve “Seyyâh-› flehîr, Evliyâ-y› bî-riyâ” sonsuzluk kervan›na kat›l›r. Bundan sonra ondan ne bir haber al›n›r, ne de bir hat›ra aktar›l›r. Ne vefat etti¤i tarih kesin olarak bilinmektedir, ne de vefat etti¤i yer tam olarak malumdur. Tanr›’ya flükür ki son seyahatlerini anlatt›¤› Seyahatname’nin X. cildi, bilinmeyen birileri taraf›ndan, bilinmeyen bir flekilde ‹stanbul’a ulaflt›r›l›r. Yüzlerce y›l›n ard›ndan Evliya Çelebi, hâlâ bize muhteflem bir imparatorlu¤un flaflaalar dolu destan›n› masal›ms› bir üslup ile anlatmaya devam etmektedir. Abart›l› da olsa bu üslup, bu cihan devletinin azametini gözler önüne serecek niteliktedir.

about what he saw there, and then crossed the Red Sea to reach Cairo. Perhaps he did so because both cities had served as capitals to two great Islamic states, or because they were two exemplary cities of Islamic civilization flourishing in his time. From there he went on to Alexandria and set out on a journey through Africa. He followed the Nile to Sudan. He wanted to see the source of the blessed Nile and went beyond the Ottoman frontier into the African interior. He returned by way of Abyssinia to Egypt. We know nothing of the rest of his life. His dreams now at an end, he began his journey beyond the horizons to eternity. The candle goes out, life comes to an end, the breath is cut off, the pen falls from the hand. “The Traveler of Cities, God’s Sincere Friend” joined the caravan of eternity. Nothing more was heard of him, he wrote no more. Neither the date nor the place of his death is precisely known. Thank God that the tenth volume of his Book of Travels, in which he related the final journeys he took, was brought to Istanbul by persons and routes unknown. After hundreds of years Evliya Çelebi is still telling us, in his fabulous style, the flamboyant tales of a magnificent empire. Excessive perhaps, but of a character to bring the splendor of that world empire alive.



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