EXPAT NEWSPAPER DECEMBER ISSUE

THE PHILIPPINES’ FORUM FOR INTERNATIONAL READERS SINCE 1981

DECEMBER 2018 / VOL. 36 NO. 12

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE

A mashup of adventure and culture from up high 15

The highlands of the Gran Cordillera mountain ranges is home to Kalinga province – an emerging tourist getaway with an uncanny mix of ancient traditions and adventure.

TRAVEL

GRUB HUB

EXPAT RECOMMENDS

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Mindful Presents

Binondo Food Crawl

Color it Zambo

Gift ideas from homegrown brands that’ll help you and your loved ones lead a more sustainable life.

One of Manila enthusiasts' favorite districts offers a unique epicurean experience. Here's a low down on where to get started.

Its undeserved reputation may suggest otherwise, but a sojourn down to Zamboanga should be on everybody’s bucket list. We give you some of the reasons why.

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

2 FEATURES

EXPAT RECOMMENDS They all look good, and perform just as well—if not better. Check out our holiday gift guide of cool steez that allows you to do what you need, in style.

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Viviamo! Inc. The Italian word for “We live,” Viviamo! has an extensive line of planners, journals and notebooks that fit your lifestyle whatever it may be.

The Quest Journal2 has a classic exterior design – versatile and stylish that makes it a safe pick for anybody. Whether you’re making plans for your next adventure, important life decisions, or keeping memories of your journeys, the Quest Journal a chic way to go about it.

It contains two elastics for refillable and interchangeable notebooks, as well as a vinyl zippered pouch with small pockets for cards, photos, and other mementos. It’s available in eight colors (coffee, midnight, mint, olive, pastel, powder, rose, and salmon) and comes in three sizes (Travel, Medium, and Mini).

Tesalate It’s everything you can look for in a beach towel— large but compact, super absorbent, yet quick drying, sand-free, and quite a sartorial statement.

Tesalate has developed cutting-edge textile technology with their exclusive AbsorbLite microfiber, which is able to retain up to one liter of water, allows for sand to slip off easily, engineered to dry in half the time, and rolls conveniently into a compact size to fit in your tote.

Australians are known for a lot of things. Now, you can add home of the best beach towels in the world to that list.

Whether you use it as beach mat or a fashion accessory, Tesalate beach towels does it all.

For more info, visit www.tesalate.com

Meanwhile, the 10th anniversary edition of the Navi Journal1 is the most inspirational yet when it comes to truly immersing yourself in your global travels. Among its plethora of features are 12 monthly divider spreads featuring different festivals from around the world – one for each month!

It also has special pages like packing checklists, bucket lists, and suggested destinations, while also coming with the Travel Curious coupon booklet, which has over PhP25,000 worth of discounts from Viviamo’s partner brands.

A win in every way!

Viviamo! products are available at all leading bookstores nationwide. For more information, visit www.viviamoconcepts.com

Free Beer Friday Local brand Free Beer Friday comes from the marriage of style and function. These hip packs are akin to the modern day backpacks – as sartorially in tune, as they are practical.

The Bonnie (11”x4”) and Clyde (13”x7”) hip packs are made of premium synthetic leather and comes in black, white, and brown variants. To check out the rest of their collection, find them on Instagram @freebeerfriday.

FEATURES 3

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

Thoughtful Presents Gift ideas from homegrown brands that’ll help you and your loved ones lead a more sustainable life

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he Holidays are here! And while we could all benefit from the festive atmosphere, there’s no denying this season can be a bit stressful – not just for us, but especially, for the environment. With the tradition of gift-giving, carbon emissions from deliveries as well as trash from packaging and gift wraps

Artisanal Bread Everybody eats so food is always a fail-proof gift. If you have friends who love their carbs, Antipolo-based artisan Baker Bear creates delicious, no-oil, no-preservatives, no-added sugar crusty breads. Irresistible bâtard, fragrant foccacia, and superb sourdough – these are some of their offerings which do not only make you feel warm and fuzzy, but are also vegan!

Order your crusty breads and other baked creations on Instagram: @bakerbearph, or on Facebook at Baker Bear.

By CELINE MURILLO

skyrocket at this time of year. Factor in the proverbial “deadweight loss of Christmas” – the “gap between how much a giver spends on a present and how much the receiver values the gift” – and the holidays become a season of waste on a whole new level.

However, gift-giving undoubtedly

adds a certain kind of charm to the holidays. It reminds us of the power of generosity and thoughtfulness, and how wonderful it is to be treasured enough to merit a gift.

Fortunately, there are ways to lessen the wastage that comes with this tradition.

For starters: shop local – when it’s near,

there will be lesser carbon emissions from driving or delivery. Next, opt for reusable gift wraps like fabric pouches or scarves; better yet, don’t wrap your presents at all! And last, but not the least: give more meaningful gifts, like the following seven items that are not only worth your money, but are also kind to the environment:

Zero-waste Starter Kit Shameless plug alert: Ecoheroes is a brand this writer had started earlier this year.

It offers alternatives to single-use plastic, with collapsible cups, containers, and metal straws being some of its products. The cups and containers are perfect for your on-the-go friends who’d love to minimize their plastic waste.

Get coffee, taho, or cheese corn without the disposables. Get takeouts without the unnecessary trash. Plus, Ecoheroes does plastic-free shipping – the items come in fabric pouches that could already double as gift-wrap!

Know more about our bid for a zero-waste world on Facebook @Ecoheroes and Instagram @ecoheroesph

Earth-friendly Desserts For the sweet-tooths (erm, sweetteeth?) in your life, Earth Desserts has a trove of vegan-friendly baked goodies: from white choco macadamia cookies to Biscoff-stuffed brownies. These desserts also come in gift-ready reusable jars which you can return later for a PhP10 refund!

These delectable sweets are available at The Vegan Grocer, Ultra Supergreen, Manna, and every Sunday at Mandala Park.

You may also check them out on Instagram: @earthdesserts

Fancy Floss Regular dental floss is made of nylon – a kind of plastic which, like all other plastics, takes a long time to decompose. For your friends who like keeping their dentists happy, TreeMaria has an eco-friendly alternative: Silk Dental Floss. Made of mulberry silk coated with vegetable-based candellila wax, this 60 meters of teeth-cleaning action is 100 percent biodegradable. You can also get refills packaged in bioplastic made from corn!

Sachet-free Suds

Period Friend

Our dependency on sachet goods contribute a great deal to the plastic problem. Get your lovedones to lessen their plastic consumption by gifting them sachet-free shampoo bars. The Cold Process makes awesome concoctions like ones that’re beerinfused. There’s also a yummy-smelling chocolate variation! The best part? You can get these packaging-free or wrapped in biodegradable materials.

Check them out on Facebook at The Cold Process, and on Instagram: @thecoldprocessph.

A sanitary napkin is just one of those things we never thought would have a huge impact on the environment. But they do (because they’re plastic), and tampons are no better. Thankfully, there’s Sinaya Cup! This organization introduced menstrual cups to Filipinas and has been on a campaign to lift the stigma off of periods ever since.

Female friends would surely appreciate this gift – it’s a total game-changer! Not only will you help keep thousands of sanitary waste out of landfills and our oceans, you (and/or your female friends) will also be saving tons of cash. Plus, you’ll get to enjoy activities like surfing even on your period.

Check out Sinaya Cup on Facebook (Sinaya Cup) and Instagram @sinayacup.

Fabulous Handcrafts Speaking of female friends, help them amp up their wardrobe by getting them a piece (or two) from NCLK. These handcrafted accessories are made painstakingly with love and thoughtfulness. They’re so pretty, they’re sure to become conversation-starters – which could give you the chance to talk about your efforts to live a more sustainable lifestyle. Indeed, these are perfect for advocates and dream-chasers!

Browse NCLK’s beautiful collection over at Instagram @nclk_ph

So if you’re a bit stumped, these are some meaningful and eco-friendly gift ideas. If you haven’t yet finished your Christmas shopping, why not consider getting these, add a thoughtful note sans disposable wrapping, and give the gift of sustainability to your loved-ones!

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

4 CEBU

Bai Hotel continues to blaze trail in Visayas

By RICHARD RAMOS

T

he biggest hotel in Cebu in terms of number of rooms (668), bai Hotel is also the only establishment in the Visayas-Mindanao region hospitality industry to have qualified for WorldHotels Collection, an elite global brand representing over 350 independent hotels worldwide.

Entry to the WorldHotels Collection is not an easy task, with the body’s discriminating eye for topnotch quality amenities and services. The company curates the best independent properties worldwide, each reflective of the locale by offering intuitive service and a refined sense of character.

Other Philippine properties qualified for WorldHotels Collection are situated in Luzon; namely Makati Diamond Residences, the Le Monet Hotel in Baguio, and the Hotel Luna in Vigan.

Towering 23 stories above the Mandaue City skyline, bai Hotel specializes in the corporate, leisure, and MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) markets

with its 12 event venues perfect for business conferences, galas, and corporate eve nts.

Selective, collective, and distinctive The hotel’s size is indicative not only of its quantifiable facilities, but also of its qualitative and distinct amenities and services that have put the establishment head and shoulders above its regional competition.

For instance, its Executive Club, situated on the 19th to 21st floors, boasts of 130 rooms, the biggest of its kind in the VisayasMindanao region. Here, one can avail of afternoon tea and cocktails in a posh and private setting, away from the bustle of conventioneers, partygoers, and chatty crowds.

For Persons with Disabilities (PWDs) or other clients who encounter accidents in their rooms, they merely have to push an emergency button in their bedroom or bathroom to summon a medical team to their room.

Bai Hotel's Infinity Pool

There will also be a special floor tailored exclusively for ladies’ utmost comfort and pampering. Female housekeeping staffers, exclusive and complete toiletries, special dresser mirrors and lighting—the works— ensure all female whims are met. The ladies floor is set to open in the first quarter of

2019.

Additionally, the surrounding areas in its Mandaue City location will soon transform into an upcoming business district owed to the presence of Mandani Bay, one of the five biggest commercial developments in Cebu City and Province.

Cebu airport awarded for excellence

By RICHARD RAMOS

T

he Mactan-Cebu International Airport (MCIA) was awarded the Asia-Pacific Medium Airport of the Year in the Center for Asia-Pacific Aviation or CAPA 2018 Asia Aviation Awards for Excellence.

MCIA emerged top among airports in the region with over 10 million annual passengers.

Among its distinctions were for being “the biggest standout strategically,” having “established itself as a strategic leader,” and having “done the most to advance the progress of the

aviation industry.”

Held in Singapore on Nov. 8, CAPA’s Aviation Awards for Excellence rewards airlines and airports that are not only successful but have also provided industry leadership in adjusting to a new environment.

MCIA was selected for the successful opening of Terminal 2, which provides ample capacity to support international growth and offers the best airport passenger experience in the Philippines. Terminal 2 lifts the airport’s capacity from 4.5 million to 12.5 million.

About the MCIA Following the successful privatization, MCIA won CAPA’s Asia Pacific small airport of the year category in 2016. Annual traffic reached 10 million passengers in 2017, putting MCIA in the medium airport category. Total passenger traffic in Cebu grew at a consistent 14 percent clip in 2015, 2016 and 2017, and has accelerated this year, reaching 26 percent in the first eight months of 2018.

MCIA’s international traffic has more than doubled since 2014, when the airport handled only 1.7 million international passengers. All three main Philippine aviation companies have been pursuing rapid expansion in Cebu, which they are now using as an alternative hub for transfer traffic. The airport also has attracted eight new foreign airlines over the last three years, and is currently served by 16 foreign carriers. MCIA’s network has expanded rapidly, and currently consists of 24 international and 16 domestic destinations.

“The opening of the new international terminal follows a highly successful privatization, positioning the airport for rapid growth and making MCIA a model for other airports in the Philippines and throughout Asia as potential PPP (Public Private Partnership) opportunities are evaluated,” said MCIA General

Manager Steve Dicdican.

At a time of industry upheaval, CAPA Aviation Awards winners are recognized for adopting strategies that offer new directions

for others to take up. The CAPA Awards for Excellence are not driven by customer surveys or sponsorship, with an independent panel of international judges researching the awards.

Cebu big ticket projects face challenges

By RICHARD RAMOS and TIMOTHY JAY IBAY

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s Cebu City continues its urban development, its traffic situation has inevitably suffered along with it. And as its expansion continues, more large-scale developmental projects are needed to support the entailed economic growth, and to disperse the populace beyond highly urbanized districts.

In line with this, the Regional Development Council (RDC), an aggrupation of Local Government Units (LGUs) and the business sectors based in Region VII (Cebu, Bohol, Negros Oriental, and Siquijor) gave an update on its list of multi-billion projects designed to maximize economic development in the region.

Big ticket projects Speaking for the RDC, Lorna Manila, chief of Project Development Investment Programming and Budgeting Division of the National Economic and Development Authority (NEDA), enumerated the priority projects in the Master Plan Study and Institutional Development on the Urban Transport System in Metro Cebu.

Among these are the Mandaue-Lapu-Lapu Link Bridge (fourth bridge) to further ease the traffic situation between the two cities.

This consists of a 720-meter and approach section with two ramps, and four kilometers of coastal road.

Another is the 21-kilometer Metro Cebu Circumferential Road, which includes tunnels and linkages to adjacent cities and towns; while the Urban Mass Rapid Transit (UMRT) Coastal Line, which includes the Bus Rapid Transit (BRT), would be funded by the World Bank (WB) and the Agence Francaise de Developpment.

According to Manila, feasibility studies have been completed by the Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH).

“There is also the Metro Cebu Expressway, a 73.75-kilometer highway passing through the southern city of Naga, the hills of Metro Cebu en route to the northern city of Danao. This would cut down travel time by at least an hour,” she stated.

Yet another proposed project is the third Mactan Bridge, a joint venture linking the town of Cordova (adjacent town to Mactan) and Cebu via the South Coastal Road. This eight-kilometer bridge is eyed for completion in 2022 and is headed by the CebuCordova Link Express (CCLEX) under the Metro Pacific Toll Development Corporation (MPTDC).

The speaker admitted that actual implementation and completion dates still have to be determined due to several issues such as Road Right of Way (RROW) matters, local and national permits, budget and financing matters, and others.

Project roadblocks In a September report by the Cebu Daily News, BRT stakeholders expressed concerns about Cebu City’s existing narrow roads – an issue that may render the project a failure. Site inspections have been conducted by NEDA and the WB to ensure that the BRT is implemented only in areas where it is possible. Quezon Avenue, for example, is one of the areas where implementing the BRT would be extremely difficult.

And after having been approved by NEDA in 2017, the project has already incurred multiple delays, which according to the Commission on Audit, could cost the Philippine government up to PhP14 million a year.

In the same month, the DPWH disclosed that the Metro Cebu Expressway’s budget was cut in half after three distributor roads were cut from the project.

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

FEATURES 5

Decoding the Philippine Holiday Cheer

By ANGIE DUARTE

C

hristmas is upon us.

Actually, it has been upon us for some months now, for such is life on the Philippine Isles. We simply cannot get enough of holiday cheer!

Still haven’t caught on? Here are a dozen hallmarks that will definitely clue you in: 1. The “ber” months herald the onset of Christmas carols playing on loop in malls all across the Metro.

And yes, on loop DOES mean non-stop. On the list of the most annoying of the lot are Christmas songs locally mixed with popular songs. For instance “Gloooooooo-oooo-oooo-oria, in excelsis deo” followed brilliantly by “Teach me how to Dougie, teach me, teach me how to Dougie.”

2. The slightest “chill” in the air is the perfect excuse for fashionistas everywhere to don scarves, boots, and leather jackets. Yes, we do Fall-Winter collections in tropical Manila. Because we can. Whether we should is another thing entirely.

3. Lights are everywhere! From city streets and big retail establishments to humble shanties and corner stores, Manila gets decked in tiny, twinkling lights and parols blinking in sequence at an almost seizureinducing frenzy.

Perhaps the biggest and brightest of them all is Ayala Land’s Festival of Lights, now on its 10th year at the Ayala Triangle Gardens. Thousands of holidaymakers flock to this venue to catch what was once listed by Conde Naste Traveler as among the best light shows in the world.

4. There are as many people out on the streets as there are twinkling lights. And they, too, move around in an almost seizureinducing frenzy. If this is not your scene, stay away from malls… or from anywhere outside your home completely.

5. Young urchins walk the streets with makeshift instruments ranging from tambourines made of hammered down bottle caps, strung together through holes in the center; empty jugs of bottled water as drums; a pair of stones for castanets; empty tin cans filled with dry mung beans for maracas; singing carols with makeshift words in delightful Pinoy-accented English “Mauricio, a meri kreeeesmas! Mauricio, a meri kreeeesmas!”

Yes, they love Mauricio, and will sing for your loose change in his honor. Lest you scratch your head in bewilderment, Mauricio is actually their phonetic understanding of “We wish you.”

Sharp Philippines Partners with Miss Earth Delegates to Save the Planet This past October, Miss Earth delegates from Austria, Egypt, Northern Ireland, Ghana, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Indonesia, Cyprus, Guyana, Malta, and Ukraine joined Sharp Philippines in their yearly Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) tree planting activity in support of the “SAVE THE EARTH, SAVE OUR NATURE” project held at the Sharp Philippines Corporation office.

Sharp Philippines strongly believes that through this project they can help raise awareness about long-term ecological sustainability and the environmental movement of saving and planting trees, as well as the diminishing unfavorable effects of climate change to make the environment be a better place.

During the visit of the Miss Earth delegates, Sharp Philippines also awarded the Miss “CAPTURES REAL BEAUTY” to the candidate who best performed throughout the event. The title was given to Ms. Earth – Northern Ireland for perfectly embodying the definition of Sharp’s “CAPTURES REAL BEAUTY,” which is in line with promoting its AQUOS LED 4K TV and its stunning beauty, clarity, deep contrast, and brilliant color that all add up in experiencing richer quality of viewing.

This event was headed by Sharp Philippines PR and Advertising Manager, Amor Golifardo; Senior Manager- Manufacturing Allan Mercado, together with Sharp Philippines President Kazuo Kito, among other Senior Managers.

Now you know.

6. It takes you twice as long to get to a place that's half as far. (Heavier) Traffic is the new world order. We do not like this world order, not one bit. Thankfully, there are point-to-point buses to the rescue (at least you’re not behind the wheel), and foot power is always another option (perfect way to take in the pretty lights and street decor.)

7. The smell of bibingka and puto bungbung lingers in the air, and chestnuts roast on an open fire at Manong’s corner stand. Sticky rice cakes and other treats are always a welcome Christmas tradition.

8. Nativity scenes, better known as belens, are positioned on rooftops, sidewalks, front doorsteps, and mantle tops, in homage to the first Christmas Night. Never mind that biblical scholars will tell you that there were most likely way more than three wise men who came to visit; who are scholars to ruin our well-loved nativity scenes, anyway?

9. Office employees go on a mandatory diet, skipping lunch break to practice for their Christmas party dance routines anywhere they possibly can. Sometimes, you might even catch them busting out the choreographed moves behind the check-out counter where they work, in parking lots, and practically, wherever space permits. Now that’s team spirit and Yuletide cheer for you.

10. Street hawkers peddle an as-

sortment of Christmas oddities, from snowflakeshaped glasses and plastic baubles to Santa hats and Santameets-the-Easter-Bunny furry blinking rabbit ears.

Flea markets and makeshift bazaars capitalize on the spirit of gift-giving, selling a variety of merchandise, from dry goods to food items and everything in between.

Shopping in a tiangge (street market) wonderland!

11. You are invited to Christmas dinner at your wife’s a u n t ’s cousin twice removed. The next day, you are invited to Christmas lunch at your wife’s aunt’s cousin thrice removed. The list of invites goes on, the feasting is endless.

12. The post-bonus holiday mantra: “Eat, drink, sing (Karaoke, of course!), repeat!” Warm up your vocal chords and join in on the fun. You won’t regret it!

Yes, as far as things that are “more fun” go, Christmas in the Philippines is definitely in that category. Maligayang Pasko sa ating lahat!

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

6 FEATURES

The Gift of Grace

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE The Philippines’ forum for international readers since 1981

By ANGIE DUARTE

Murray Hertz Founding Publisher (1928-2014) Butch C. Bonsol President & Managing Director Vernon Prieto Associate Publisher Timothy Jay Araneta Ibay Editor-in-Chief Richard A. Ramos (Cebu) Via Baroma Staff Writers Angie Duarte Writer-at-Large Nikki Habana Macjanry Imperio Design & Layout Leah Egamino-Palaña Sales & Advertising Executive Fevelyn Bucio Admin and Accounting Vicky Soto Sales & Advertising Officer Our Headquarters: Unit 305 Cristina Condominium, 143 Legaspi cor. V.A. Rufino Sts., Legaspi Village, Makati City Our telephone numbers: (+632) 840-2996 or (+632) 812-0987 You can also reach us at: expatmag@gmail.com and for sales and advertising: expatcomsales@gmail.com Cebu Mailing Address: MJ. Cuenco Avenue cor. C. Mina St., Mabolo, Cebu City Telefax: (032) 412-8000 Statements, views and opinions expressed by the writers, contributors, and advertisers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher or the management.

The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material.

W

here are you going, ma’am?” the building guard’s voice booms, as I enter the Makati Stock Exchange along Ayala Avenue.

“To the Instituto Cervantes, Sir,” I reply.

“Aaaaah, buenos dias, Señora!” comes the guard’s cheerful retort, with just a hint of self-satisfaction in his voice.

This encounter amuses me, and I enter the premises with a silly smile across my face. My amusement gives way to a realization I have had countless times in this country: Filipinos are truly a gracious people.

The backbone of hospitality Filipinos have a far-reaching reputation for being a hospitable bunch. Most any traveler to these parts will sing the praises of Pinoy hospitality. In fact, the country is renowned for its openness to foreigners – so much so that, historically, it has been invaded and colonized multiple times!

Without convoluting the discussion, though, suffice it to say that a quick search of travel reviews online bear witness to the Filipino’s warm, welcoming spirit.

“I had never experienced before what I got to experience in the Philippines. I have never met such kind, giving, friendly, hard-working, outgoing, proud and happy people,” says Canadian blogger Kyle Jennerman, who is so enamored with this country that he goes by the very Pinoy moniker, “Kulas.”

“I don't see any aspect of fear or subordination in Filipino hospitality. All I see is very genuine wanting to connect and share with another human being. That saying, ‘strangers are just friends you haven't

met yet’... I wouldn't be surprised if it was coined by a Filipino!” says American blogger, Nathan Allen.

Those are just two of many examples of foreigners who have fallen head-over-heels for the Philippines and its people’s hospitable heart. And I wouldn’t be sticking my neck out too far in saying that this hospitality is rooted in nothing less than grace.

Ease of movement – and of attitude Grace, in its most basic of definitions, is the ease and refinement of movement and is also courteous goodwill. Now there’s another word which so typically describes many Filipinos – goodwill; that sense of generosity and compassion that prods, for instance, someone with barely anything to sincerely offer you a portion of their already meager meal. I find it utterly poetic that a race so gifted with outward grace (have you seen a Filipino dance? It is art in motion) is also blessed with inward decency. And, if you’re in touch with global news, decency is a human trait that is in very short supply, nowadays.

Not here, however.

My Mom passed away mid-November of this year, a life event which left me heartbroken, for a variety of reasons. In the midst of heartache, though, I found great comfort in people’s sense of decency.

Friends, many of whom I had not heard from in ages, reached out and offered not only words of sympathy, but also concrete expressions thereof. Those around me made sure I was okay, they sent food, flowers, gifts of cash, and even offered to run errands and do my chores for me.

But, the random acts of kindness were

the ones that truly soothed my spirit. For instance, commuting to the wake merely hours after my Mom breathed her last, the cab driver notices my despondence.

“Are you okay, ma’am?” he asks, gently.

I say no, far from it, as I recount the sad turn of events. He offers his sympathies and engages me in light, non-pressuring conversation. We arrive at the memorial home, a considerable distance from my point of origin, and the cabbie tells me to disregard the meter and just pay him what I could comfortably afford.

“I know what it’s like to lose a mother, Ma’am. And I want to help you, somehow,” he says in Filipino.

I bawl, but my heart is deeply touched.

Honor under fire The word grace also connotes a sense of dignity and honor, despite external factors, and we all know how much of that it takes to survive in this country. Look around you – life here, for the most part, is not easy, for most people. Yet, Filipinos manage to smile through their sorrows, with a “never surrender” mentality that is downright enviable.

This is the bedrock upon which resilience and fortitude are built.

Grace is a gift. It has been gifted to Filipinos so they can rise above a life which is often marred by hardship. It is a gift Filipinos give to the world, so that the world learns value where there seemingly is none.

Best of all, grace is a gift that keeps on giving.

Take it, but pay it forward. You never know who may be in your “cab,” in need of a little grace.

The Daily Habit of Design A peek into the mind of design laureate Kenneth Conbonpue

By RICHARD RAMOS

W

hile others wait for an idea or inspiration to hit them, world-famous furniture designer Kenneth Cobonpue, a Cebuano, forces himself to devote time daily to conjure up ideas of new and improved designs in order to constantly raise the bar on his crafts and attract a wider market range.

“Design is not a sport. You don’t sit pretty for a new concept or idea to fall on your lap,” Cobonpue says. “You have to play an active role. I still believe in that saying that genius is 99 percent perspiration and one percent inspiration,” he stated in his talk “From Local to Global” during the Ocean (Overseas Collaboration for East Asia Networking) 18 event held in Lapu-lapu City.

Cobonpue has long been an internationally-renowned designer whose creations have won several global awards and citations. He is probably best known for having sold a prized bed to Brad Pitt, which was later displayed in an installment of the “Ocean’s” movie franchise.

En vogue quality Likewise, his products are as durable as they are sought-after. He revealed that the test

process is often a brutal and extended process where the products are dropped and banged hundreds of times over a two-day period before they finally pass his strict standards.

“All my products have a five-year warranty,” Cobonpue disclosed, adding that he wants his clients to get their money’s worth.

Furthermore, the creative process from conceptualization to market release usually takes a year due to the constant revisions and discussions involved before the final product is released to the market.

Such standards assure the client of truly world-class products that speak of aesthetics, artistry, and durability which have gained due recognition and respect from international counterparts and customers.

Art for The Force Adding to his Hollywood notoriety, Cobonpue revealed that the Star Wars company came to him to ask if he could create furniture pieces for them as based on the actual movie characters.

“I refused at first since they did not allow me to place my name on the furniture. But eventually they relented and allowed my name to be displayed. I just hope that these

won’t be subject to piracy by industry counterparts,” he told the crowd.

His slide presentation revealed furniture pieces manufactured in total likenesses of spacecraft chairs, Darth Vader swivel chairs, Jedi lamps, and Chewbacca chairs, which had the crowd laughing and marveling at the same time.

It was also quite bizarre and perplexing how such characters could be re-molded into furniture pieces in seemingly flawless craftsmanship, and with the trademark Cobonpue panache.

According to the designer, the items are only available in the Philippines for the time being. A global license is already in the process of obtaining to gain a much wider market share.

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

8 GRUB HUB

Binondo Food Crawl

Dubbed as the oldest Chinatown in the world, Binondo has long been one of the favorite districts of urban explorers in the capital city. Its mélange of vibrant colors, aromas, rich culture and history is what draws you in – its bargain shopping and addictive culinary treats, though, is what makes you keep coming back.

Words by VIA BAROMA Photos by MACJANRY IMPERIO

Cafe Mezzanine

The Great Buddha Cafe

Located in the heart of Chinatown, Café Mezzanine is part of the humble Gerry Chua’s umbrella of restaurants that also includes Eng Bee Tin, Mr. Ube Rice and Noodle House, Chuan Kee Chinese Fast Food Restaurant, and his latest offering—The Great Buddha Café (more on this later).

Apart from Chua’s obvious passion for food, Café Mezzanine is also founded on paying it forward.

“My dad says one of the most important things is to give back and do good deeds. For him, it was easy to decide on

Opened just this August, The Great Buddha Cafe is located on the second floor of Eng Bee Tin’s flagship store. Aside from having a massive 1.2-ton golden Buddha that symbolizes happiness, plentitude, and contentment – three things that their customers can expect every time they visit The Great Buddha Cafe, the restaurant takes pride on its innovative and unique take on Chinese dishes. According to its General Manager, Roche Chua, their wide array of offerings is a re-imagination of classic dishes, while still maintaining the essence of what has made them so loved.

opens daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.

2F 628 Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila (02) 241-9999

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

2F 650 Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila (02) 288-8888

Asado Egg

a beneficiary – the volunteer fire brigade.

Ever since he was young, my dad has harbored a fascination with fire. He also joined the volunteer fire brigade,” Roche Chua, Gerry’s daughter shared with Expat.

Expat recommends Also known as The Fireman’s Coffee Shop, its cozy ambiance has made it an ideal hangout place, and a perfect spot to absorb the hustle and bustle of Binondo.

Among some of its musttrys are the exotic Soup No. 5 (made with bull’s testicles), its Xiao Long Bao, and its Kiampong (salty brown rice), and Gokong (highly recommended for meat lovers).

Aside from other treats like Pork Maki, Asado, Camaron, Kimchi Fried Rice, Grilled, and Honey Garlic Chicken, when you dine at Café Mezzanine, you’re also championing fire safety as all revenue are donated to the Binondo and Paco Fire and Search and Rescue Brigades.

If you still have room in your tummy after indulging in the huge servings of Cafe Mezzanine, your next stop is just one floor below, where the oldest fast food restaurant in Chinatown can be found, along with what is renowned as the best Kiampong , Maki, Gokhong, and Lechon Kawali in Binondo.

Expat recommends Meticulously prepared by a seasoned Cantonese chef, the menu is divided into six major sections: Dim sums, Claypot Rice, Roastings, Short Orders, Noodles and Congee, Dessert, and Drinks. The dim sum menu is a mix of classics like Pork and Shrimp Siomai, Xiao Long Bao, Shrimp Hakaw, and Pan-Fried Dumplings, and new concoctions like the Ham Sui Kok (glutinous rice dumpling with a savory, meaty filling).

Other must-trys include the Hainanese Chicken, Soy Chicken, and the HK Style Honey Asado (sweet and savory and its meat roasted to perfection).

The Great Buddha Café is also doing its part to promote Binondo as a tourist destination, with a souvenir shop featuring all sorts of crafts made by local artists related to the Chinese and Filipino cultures, while plans are ongoing for a museum that showcases the history of Eng Bee Tin, and how every hopia is made from start to finish.

The Great Buddha's Pork and Shrimp Siomai

Stir-Fried Radish Cake with Pork Floss

“Aside from Eng Bee Tin bestsellers, we want to show the best of the best of our country’s products. As my dad always says, the success that we’ve been blessed with, we should use that to help others. Let’s help bring more attention to the different products of the Philippines,” Chua said.

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

FEATURES 9

New Po Heng House

Hao Kang Hong Kong Dessert

Your Binondo food crawl would not be complete without this Chinese spring roll house in your list of the restaurants to visit. Tucked away in Quintin Paredes Street is the small, family-run eatery offering one of the best Chinese-style fresh lumpia in Binondo.

The filling dish is made with tofu, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, cilantro, ground peanuts, and seaweed rolled together in a thin lumpia wrapper. The experience is completed with a dab of sweet and

And finally, for your sweet fix, head on over to the home of authentic Hong Kong desserts.

Fall in love with your first bite of the Mango Pomelo Sago, as the bestseller refreshes both your body and palate. Enjoy it with a scoop of ice cream for added indulgence.

Other favorites include the Coconut Water Pudding (made with coco water jello and creamy caramel), the Glutinous Rice Balls (rice flour dough with sweet bean paste/ tangerine peel and sesame seeds) Mango Mix Fruit Frost Tower, and Red Bean Frost Tower (perfect for sharing!)

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Uy Su Bin Bldg., 531 Quintin Paredes St. (02) 241-8789

The Chinese style fresh lumpia, is made of tofu, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, cilantro, ground peanuts and seaweed rolled together in a thin lumpia wrapper

spicy sauce, a sprinkling of crushed peanuts and sugary power, and served with bihon and seaweed—an experience with every bite!

marks 30th year with La Soiree

The French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in the Philippines (CCI France Philippines) recently celebrated its 30th year by laying out the red carpet for the biggest French event of the year—La Soiree.

The Harbor Garden Tent of Sofitel Philippine Plaza saw a vibrant, festive night as guests had their fill of French wines and cheeses, with Silver Streaks providing the musical backdrop.

CCI France Philippines started as an informal meeting (called Le Club) of a group of French businessmen who wanted to share their challenges and experiences in setting up their businesses in the Philippines. Throughout the next three decades Le Club evolved into a fully-functioning Chamber of Commerce servicing its 120 members.

Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Unit A 912-928 Reina Regente St. (02) 251-1797

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

10 EVENTS

A Luxurious Re-imagining Lexus Manila, Inc. (LMI) continues to astound luxury vehicle enthusiasts everywhere with the re-imagining of one of its most iconic vehicles. Under the astute leadership of LMI president Raymond Rodriguez and EVP Yuichiro Suzuki, the company recently launched the seventh-generation ES. After six generations of uncompromising comfort, refinement, and performance, the 2019 Lexus ES was crafted to deliver a boldly styled and meticulously refined car. Attended by LMI and Toyota Motor Philippines (TMP) executives and the metro’s biggest car aficionados, the launch held at the Lexus Manila Showroom in Bonifacio Global City was a rousing success – with the 2019 Lexus ES 350 as the show-stopping attraction. Congratulations to Lexus Manila, Inc. for a successful launch!

TMP president Satoru Suzuki

Lexus ES chief engineer Yukihiro Kito

Lexus Manila, Inc. (LMI) president Raymond Rodriguez, Toyota Motor Philippines (TMP) vice chairman Alfred Ty and Lexus Asia Pacific VP David Nordstrom

Alvin Ty with Atsushi Murakami

Rose Pelaez with Felicia Rodriguez

The ES 350 features a longer, wider stance and a sleek, coupe-like silhouette inherited from the flagship LS

Cathy and Rene Golangco with Raymond Rodriguez

Amazigrace, Micah, Bernie and Vivian Caramba

(From left) Francis Perez, Haruo Miyagawa, Rosanna Averia, Cesar Averia Jr. and Hiroaki Yamaguchi

(From left) Eric Wong, Abet and Pinky Antonio, Jonalyn Lim, Doyong Tan and Severino Lim

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

EVENTS 11

Compiled by VIA BAROMA

SHOWS

• Magic on Ice Dec. 25 to Jan. 1; Smart Araneta Coliseum, Cubao, Quezon City; for more information, call (02) 911-5555 or visit www.ticketnet.com.ph Witness Magic on Ice, an extravagant show that combines the most fascinating elements of a circus, figure skating, magic, and grand illusion. Created by Steve Wheeler, the show is a new genre of entertainment featuring the elegance and beauty of ice skating, the world of grand illusions, and the intrigue of magic.

With its innovative designs and breath-taking performances, this is the kind of entertainment everyone in the family will surely love.

Magic on Ice has already captivated millions of its viewers across the US, Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, and has entertained audiences in over 200 cities around the world including Las Vegas, New York, Germany, Mexico, Korea and Abu Dhabi.

Tickets are priced at PhP2,335 for VIP; PhP2,015 for Patron; PhP1,590 for Lower Box; PhP640 for Upper Box; and PhP190 for General Admission

FITNESS

• New World Hotels & Resorts Run and Raise 5 Jan. 20; Liwasang Ulalim, CCP Complex, Pasay City; for more information, visit www. goorahna.com or call (02) 252-6888 2019 marks a very special year for New World Hotels and Resorts as sister properties New World Manila Bay Hotel and New World Makati Hotel holds the 5th charity fun run, Run and Raise. This year’s race marks the hotels’ strengthened partnership with the ABS-CBN Lingkod Kapamilya Foundation Inc. - Bantay Bata 163, as they raise funds for nine hardworking scholars hailing from various parts of the country.

Initially launched in 2015 as a small-scale charity fun run, the past years saw Run and Raise’s continuous growth with the increasing number of participants and supporters.

Winners of each category will receive exclusive gifts from New World Manila Bay Hotel and New World Makati Hotel.

Registration fee is priced at PhP950 (16k); PhP800 (10k); PhP650 (5k); and PhP550 (3k). Race kits are inclusive of singlet, race bib, finisher’s medal, and finisher shirt (for 16k runners only).

• Disney on Ice: Mickey’s Super Celebration Dec. 25 to Jan. 6; Mall of Asia Arena, Pasay City; for more information, visit smtickets.com or call (02) 470-2222 Get ready for the ultimate interactive as Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck and Goofy join Mickey on a journey to discover his favorite Disney memories.

Using Mickey’s Mouse Pad, show hosts invite fans to be a part of the action and help the gang as they venture through Disney stories, sharing memorable moments from treasured tales.

For the first time in Asia, see fearless Moana live on ice, as she displays the courage to save her island on a high seas adventure with the greatest demigod that ever lived. Continue the journey with your family to the wintery world of Arendelle as royal sisters Anna and Elsa discover true love is the most powerful magic of all, and experience the mysterious magic of Fantasia as a Sorcerer’s Apprentice makes brooms come to life.

“Live Your Story” alongside some of the most loved Disney Princesses as they use perseverance, determination and hard work to inspire Mickey and children around the world to celebrate their favorite Disney memories in this commemoration of 90 years of Mickey Mouse.

Tickets are priced at PhP4,230 for Front Row; PhP3,180 for SVIP; PhP2,650 for VIP; PhP1,800 for Lower Box Center; PhP1,480 for Lower Box Premium; PhP1,270 for Lower Box Regular; PhP690 for Upper Box; and PhP190 for General Admission

• Spartan Kids Race Jan. 19; Vermosa, Imus, Cavite; for more information, visit www.spartanrace.ph The Spartan Kids Race encourages kids to jump, run, get muddy, help each other, and have a good time while conquering obstacles. No one’s too young to set goals and celebrate accomplishing them – an epic feeling that’s universal.

Race course distances are 800 meters for 4 to 6 years old; 1,600 m for 7 to 9 years old; and 3,200+ m for 10 to 13 years old. Kid racers must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian whist onsite and must have a completed and signed Race Waiver form.

Registration fee is priced at PhP1,500 for Competitive Boys and Girls 3,200+ m race; and PhP900 for Kids Race

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

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TRAVEL 13

Dancing in Balinsasayaw Resort Words and photos by RICHARD RAMOS

H

ad I known ahead that there would be no Wi-Fi or even a TV in this quiet resort in Coron, Palawan, I wouldn’t have made reservations. After all, what would my wife April and I do with our two pre-teen, internet-savvy sons for three days? Technology plays a heavy part in our lives and we were afraid we would just get on each other’s nerves. But then again, that year-old resort gift certificate would have gone to waste.

So how did it turn out? Surprisingly, we all had a blast! In fact, this holiday may just have turned out as our BEST one so far. That tops a list of local destinations that includes Bohol (twice), Bacolod (twice), and once each in Boracay, Davao, and Manila—within the past six years. But after Balinsasayaw, we learned the crucial lesson that there’s more to a resort than its amenities – and much more to life than just staring at screens.

This constitutes the second trip to Palawan for my wife and I, and a first for our sons Raffy and Ryan. Expectedly, they protested when informed of the absence of Wi-Fi, but eventually let up when assured that we would instead enjoy ourselves by way of games, riddles, and other fun activities. And while the boys agreed to go, albeit reluctantly, my wife and I still harbored serious doubts. Could we still cancel plane and room reservations, we wondered.

On with the show!

Coron, Palawan is just an 80-minute flight from Cebu. But getting to Balinsasayaw Resort from the Francisco Reyes Airport in Coron is another story as apart from passenger vans, and resort-arranged transfers, there are no other modes of transportation. Including two stops to drop off passengers at different resorts, the van ride from the airport to the port took around 50 minutes, while the boat ride going to Balinsasayaw was a quick 15.

The resort has well-appointed facilities with comfy individual bungalows. Its solo restaurant serves family-style meals good for up to six people and above in place of ala carte items. Viands come in generous portions, while soup and dessert (mainly mangoes) come with every lunch and dinner set. Our family readily agreed that our meals, apportioned for four, could easily feed five persons.

Price is a reasonable PhP300/head.

Tranquility rules here. Balinsasayaw is no party place nor a noisy water sports haven. We were not complaining either as we welcomed the serenity. We didn’t see any loud Asian tourists or young students. It was mainly just a few Filipino families and a European family, the latter of which caught our eye. Early the next day, my wife and I observed the father and daughter collecting bits of trash along the

Boats docking by the Coron Youth Camp isle

Late lunch near The Cage

Just one of Coron's majestic cliffs

The fam

way from their bungalow to the restaurant.

Quite commendable, I thought to myself, and sighed as to why the foreigners have to clean up after the locals.

Submarine wonders Balinsasayaw is synonymous with islandhopping adventures. One popular stop is a small rocky isle named CYC (Coron Youth Camp). Situated less than 15 minutes from the resort, several other bancas filled with tourists from adjoining resorts were also there during our visit. Many were seen frolicking at the sandbar and munching on ice cream, which an enterprising vendor on a separate boat sold to the sun-kissed tourists.

Smart guy, I grinned.

The highlight of our stay? Snorkeling! I was told long ago that underwater sights far exceed the beauty and majesty of those on dry land, but haven’t had the pleasure of doing so.

Along with two able guides, they introduced the underworld of corals and marine life to the trio (while the father was busy lazing at the floating hut.)

My family relayed that the flora and fauna, the colors and tints, and the comingling of the ecosystem was quite a sight to behold.

My elder son seemed more observant as he noticed the abundance of the crown of thorns situated a few dozen meters from the seashore.

And while the species became less abundant the further he swam, the corals became even more stunning, and the fish, bigger.

Offline lessons and appreciation Lunch was quite an experience, as we were taken to “The Cage” – a calming lagoon surrounded by towering cliffs where several oversized “Lapu-Lapu” fish were bounded by several nets attached to rafts. Measuring over three feet long, these silent creatures look quite intimidating and scary, especially so when they fought over large scraps of raw fish thrown in their direction by curious visitors.

And, oh yes, we had yet another memorable meal consisting of ribs, fish, and rice in what was probably the most unusual lunch venue of our lives – with fish nibbling at our feet.

The evening was spent in and out of the game room where billiards, foosball, card games, hammocks and lazy walks on the beach provided the offline entertainment and the backdrop for affectionate family bonding.

What Balinsasayaw taught us is that sometimes all it takes is a mere change of venue for one to re-discover the true essence of loved ones. Do away with your typical reservations. Be aware of the pitfalls of technology, discover more of the internal rather than the internet, and have a blast dancing in a Bali-like locale!

Soothing resort beachfront

The floating hut and The Cage

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

14 TRAVEL

Sandbar in Sirommon Island one of the Once Islas - Photo by Glen Santillan

Sea cliffs at Bisaya-bisaya island Once Islas

Color it Zambo

Journey to the vibrant city of Zamboanga with this rundown of best things to do Words and photos by CELINE MURILLO

A Plaza Rizal

A plate of Tausug dishes called latal

Fort Pilar

Malaysian Goods at Barter Trade Center

h, Zamboanga City. It’s a legitimate bowl of multiculturalism – Catholics, Muslims, a host of indigenous peoples, and foreigners live harmoniously in this place.

Here, a jeepney will have both an image of Jesus and a passage from the Quran displayed on its dashboard. Events are started off with both a Catholic and Muslim prayer. Modern establishments housed within Spanish-period buildings. Traditional cuisine served in posh restaurants. These are commonplace in this town.

Yet in spite of its multicultural charm, Zamboanga gets a bad rap. And it’s often to the tune of “Is it safe to go there?” which gets asked every time the city comes up in conversations.

This apprehension, one could say, is wellfounded, what with the Zamboanga siege and the reports of wanton incidents. The thing is, Zamboanga City, because of its location along the Sulu Sea and the Moro Gulf, will always be vulnerable, but that doesn’t mean it is a place in a constant state of chaos. If anything, Zamboanga has gotten even more vibrant over the years – rising like a phoenix from the ashes of its past. As one fellow from Yorkshire puts it, “The Zamboanga Peninsula can be a challenging place and caution is always advised but, as is so often the case, the bad guys are in the minority, even though they do seem to get all the publicity!”

So, should you consider adding it to your 2019 travel plans, here are some activities you can do in the wonderful eco-cultural haven that is Zamboanga City: Go on a walking tour Start inside the age-old walls of Fort Pilar – Spain’s stronghold in Mindanao in the days of yore. On one side, the image of the Nuestra Señora La Virgen del Pilar de Zaragoza is enshrined. While this is decidedly Catholic, it is important to note that the image is venerated

by Muslims too – another sign of the happy coexistence taking place within the city’s folds.

Next is a stroll along the busy thoroughfares flanked by ancestral buildings and ancient acacias. The streets will eventually lead to the century-old city hall, where right across is the Plaza Rizal. Surrounding it are old structures converted into commercial establishments.

Disregard the modern accouterments, and all will feel like a walk through the Spanish times.

Learn the art of weaving Head over to the Yakan Village in Callarian – about seven kilometers from the city center – to witness the famed loomwork of the Yakan people. The Yakans, one of the many indigenous people that call Zamboanga City home, are known for their highly-valued weaves. A meter of the intricate pieces take at least a week

to complete! In the village, you can try your hand at the weaving process, as well as purchase authentic Yakan woven products.

Experience the city’s natural treasures Zamboanga City is not lacking in beautiful landscapes and natural attractions. There’s Sta. Cruz Island with its famous pink shores, and Onçe Islas (literally “eleven islands”) with its string of white sand coves and islets. The former is touted as an eco-cultural destination, following a strict environmental, cultural, and tourism policy, as well as enjoining the local Sama Banguingui people to steward the islands.

Indulge in the gustatory experience Being a hodgepodge of culture, Zamboanga offers an interesting gastronomic experience. There are Tausug delicacies like tiula itum (chicken ginger stew with burnt coconut) and fish utak-utak (salmon covered in shredded coconut) which you could sample over at Dennis Coffee Garden or Bay Tal Mal. The omnipresent spanner crab lathered in Alavar Sauce is also a must-try. A different kind of breakfast in the form of Jimmy’s satti (grilled bits of chicken slathered with a spicy red sauce) should also not be missed. For you vegan homies out there, options like Vista del Mar’s “naked” salad with homemade vinegar dressing, and Tausug desserts like panggihpanggih (soft and chewy flour rings) and the purple pitis (glutinous rice boiled in coconut milk and brown sugar). There’s also the famous knickerbocker – fresh fruits with ice cream.

And for something more familiar, there’s lechon (roast pig) along the streets of Sta. Maria and Tetuan.

Shop Malaysian Yep, you read that right. Zamboanga City is so close to Malaysia that Malaysian products can be bought for cheap here. You can score coffee, spices, noodles, chocolate, White Rabbit (nougat candy with the edible wrapper), and canned goods at the Barter Trade Center in Canelar.

The Shrine of Nuestra Señora La Virgen del Pilar de Zaragoza inside Fort Pilar

Yakan woven products

Zamboanga City Hall

Where to Stay Marcian Garden Hotel along Gov. Camins Road is a good home base when in Zamboanga City. It’s also just 300 meters away from the airport!

For inquiries and reservations, Contact +63 62 991-2519 to 21; +63943 128-9150; for more info, visit www.marcian-group.com/ For a hassle-free tour around Zamboanga City, contact Errold Lim of iTravel Tourist Lane at (0917) 722-6410. You may also check their Facebook @ZamboangaiTravelTouristLane

Zamboanga Lechon

DECEMBER 2018 www.expatphilippines.ph

TRAVEL 15

KALINGA

Adventure and Culture from Up High

By BERNARD L SUPETRAN

Chico River by Bernard Supetran

P

erched in the highlands of the Gran Cordillera mountain ranges is Kalinga province, an emerging tourist getaway with its uncanny mixture of ancient traditions and adventure.

This once-obscure province made a splash, quite literally, in the 1990s when white water rafting was introduced in its provincial capital of Tabuk, grabbing the attention of both foreign and local adrenaline junkies.

The first of its kind in the country, it is a must-experience, succumbing to the mercy of the mighty Chico River, riding its Class III rapids while having the backdrop of stunning scenery. And while there are new water rafting sites that have sprouted over the years, the first remains unequalled because of its rugged allure, indigenous culture and a myriad of interesting stuff in between.

Depending on one’s preference, the adventure can run from the basic few hours to a three-day extreme ride along the 175-kilometer stretch regarded by the Kalinga indigenous peoples who live on its banks as the “river of life.”

Cultural showcase After the wild ride which ends at the Dalimuno Tourism Park, you can explore the rest of the province with Tabuk City as the hub and point of origin. Swing by the Provincial Capitol Complex, a government facility which has been luring locals because of its commanding view of the valley, landscaped park peppered with replicas of ethnic houses and a museum that gives a glimpse of the local way of life.

You can chase the waterfalls of BangaBanga, Matambong and Panpanay, which are known for their rejuvenating waters, or travel back in time in Naneng, a heritage village whose houses were built using rare hardwood. Another soothing viewpoint is Mt. Talama Provincial Tourism Park, which also offers inexpensive recreational activities.

Just like the other Cordillera provinces, Kalinga takes pride in its age-old ethnic handweaving tradition. Mabilong Weavers Village in Lubuagan is the center of such art in the province where almost all households are engaged in backstrap weaving, thus earn-

ing them the title “Weaving Capital of Kalinga.”

Awichon Cultural Village is another must-visit showcase for exquisite weaving and all else distinctly Kalinga. Owned and developed Alonzo Saclag, who was hailed as a Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan (National Living Treasure) by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, it was designed as a miniature tribal hamlet where guests can immerse in cultural shows, bonfire dinner, camping, and interacting with Saclag.

While in Lubuagan, take time to admire the amazing “sea of clouds” formation, a soothing roadside scenario while on the way to Aguinaldo Park where former president Emilio Aguinaldo relocated the capital of the fledging Philippine Republic for 72 days during the Fil-American War in 1900.

Pop culture phenom Perhaps the most top-of-mind destination these days is Buscalan Village in Tinglayan, where pop culture phenomenon – the nonagenarian Apo Whang Od resides.

Apo Whang Od is considered the last original artist of the centuries-old batok skin art tradition. A recipient of the rare Dangal Ng Haraya award by the NCCA for her dedication to the headhunter art for more than six decades, she became a byword after getting the spotlight in National Geographic’s Tattoo Hunter documentary of noted American anthropologist Lars Krutak.

Soon enough, major media outfits and curious tourists trooped to the community to get a rendition of her body art, which has become a status symbol to many.

However, due to the deluge of guests in recent years, the provincial government has stepped in to help ensure the sustainability of the area and the authenticity of the total experience.

Festival of Peace If getting permanent skin art isn’t your style, you can marvel at the amphitheatershaped Dananao and Tulgao Rice Terraces carved on the mountain slopes or trek to the 50-meter Palang-Ah Falls cutting through lush vegetation.

Batok Tatoo Artist Wang Ohd

But what takes the cake is the bodong, a time-honored custom of settling conflicts among Cordillera peoples by instituting a series of rituals in accordance to tribal traditions. The peace pact is often portrayed in ethnic dances performed by locals to welcome tourists.

To rekindle this peacekeeping tradition, Kalinga has instituted the Bodong Festival by virtue of Provincial Ordinance No. 2016029 to celebrate its foundation day in midFebruary, when it was split with its province of Apayao.

According to Governor Jocel Baac, the festival showcases their rich culture as a way of expressing thanksgiving to forefathers who started the bodong peace institution which is instrumental in resolving tribal conflicts and restoring harmony.

He said the province intends to conduct an annual Bodong Congress to strengthen

bilateral peace pacts between sub-tribes and further promote goodwill to ensure economic progress.

The weeklong festivity includes a grand street dancing tilt – a showcase of the colors and diversity of the various municipal festivals. There will also be the performance of the laga and lonok, a bodong practice where a visitor is welcomed to settle a dispute or enjoy a celebration.

Fringe activities include sporting events, treasures fair, agricultural exhibit, pageants, grand civic parade, a fashion show of elegant ethnic woven fabrics in contemporary wear, and a tattoo hub which offers hand-tapped tattoo under a new generation of artists.

But long after the smoke of the merrymaking has settled, the spirit of the bodong will resonate as Kalinga welcomes visitors who will arrive as strangers, and leave as members of the family.

Getting There: Take a bus or plane going to Tuguegarao City, Cagayan. A plane ride takes 1 hour and 10 minutes, while a bus would take more than half the day.

Bodong Festival reenactment of peace pact

From there, take a UV Express or rented car bound for Tabuk City, the capital of Kalinga, which will take more than an hour’s drive.

A suggested place to stay is the three-star M Hotel in Tabuk, an accredited establishment by the Department of Tourism which has a full-service restaurant and a pool overlooking the city.

Awichon Cultural Village

Bodong Festival street parade

Kalinga Provincial Museum