Expat Travel & Lifestyle Magazine: Northern Samar

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Philippine Amusement and Gaming Corporation Creating Opportunities Beyond Gaming

It doesn’t take a socio-political analyst to see that there are a myriad of issues presently plaguing the Philippines.

But if you were to put a finger on one promising sector, it could very well then be the Philippine gaming industry – one that’s seen an influx of international brands coming in not only to revitalize the local scene and make it a global player, but to provide hundreds of thousands of jobs.

As crucial as these foreign investors are to both the industry and the country, equally vital is the role to be played by one of the government’s most reliable partners—the Philippine Amusement and Gaming Corporation (PAGCOR).

For close to three decades, PAGCOR has spearheaded a plethora of projects that has benefitted some of the most marginalized sectors of the Philippine society. Steadily, the agency has become one of the government’s pillars in nation building – through the funding of programs designed to aid thousands of underprivileged Filipinos.

“Every year, PAGCOR contributes a sizeable amount for the government’s nation building efforts. In 2016 alone, the agency remitted PhP36.47 billion to the government as contributions to nation building,” PAGCOR Chairman and CEO Andrea D. Domingo told Expat. “This amount was 25.45 percent or PhP7.4 billion higher than the PhP29.07 billion contributions in 2015.”

New leadership Domingo, who has lived a life marked by her long tenure in government service, assumed her post with PAGCOR in 2016.

She was a Representative of the third district of Pampanga (1992-1995), twice held the post as commissioner of the Bureau of Immigration (1989-1992, and 2001-2004), and was the GM and CEO of the Philippine Reclamation Authority (2007-2010).

Andrea D. Domingo PAGCOR Chairman and CEO Andrea D. Domingo is a graduate of Bachelor of Arts in Journalism from the University of the Philippines-Diliman. Before assuming the post of PAGCOR chief in 2016, she served as the Bureau of Immigration Commissioner from 1989 to 1992, and from 2001 to 2004.

In 2007, Domingo was appointed as General Manager and CEO of the Philippine Reclamation Authority, staying with the agency until 2010. Her long tenure in government service is also highlighted by serving as Representative of the third district of Pampanga from 1992 to 1995.

Domingo is joined at the helm of the agency by seasoned corporate secretary and legal counsel, Alfredo C. Lim, who was named PAGCOR President and COO the same year as Domingo.

Alfredo C. Lim PAGCOR President and COO Alfredo C. Lim spent a huge part of his professional life as Corporate Secretary and Legal Counsel of several giant corporations in Japan and the Philippines – a list that includes TasPlan Inc., J-Film Philippines, Sony, and Philippine Prosperity Chemicals.

Lim is also currently the Managing Partner of Chaves Hechanova and Lim Law Offices.

He obtained a degree in Political Science from Ateneo de Naga College in 1972, and finished Law in San Beda College in 1976.

He is an expert in corporate and labor law.

President Rodrigo Roa Duterte (right) receives from PAGCOR Chairman and CEO Andrea D. Domingo (2nd from right) the check amounting to PhP5 billion for the Socio-Civic Projects Fund.

Joining them are (from left) Director Gabriel S. Claudio and President and COO Alfredo C. Lim.

Under their leadership, both Domingo and Lim envision PAGCOR to be the prime mover that will make the Philippines the top gaming and entertainment destination in the Asean region, generating revenue that will fund nation-building programs.

PAGCOR AVP for Community Relations and Services Arnell A. Ignacio (3 rd from left) turn over 246 classrooms in Cavite

PAGCOR’s AVP for Corporate Communications Carmelita V. Valdez (left) distributes gift packs to less privilege children in Manila

Under their stewardship, both Domingo and Lim envision PAGCOR to be the prime mover that will make the Philippines the top gaming and entertainment destination in the ASEAN region, generating revenues that will fund nation-building programs.

And the duo has been off to about as good a start as anyone can expect, with PAGCOR reportedly enjoying a 26 percent jump in annual earnings (PhP14 billion from PhP11 billion) since they took office.

Apart from crediting Domingo for the agency’s recent feat, Lim likewise cited the importance of the cooperation and teamwork among PAGCOR’s employees, as well as the agency’s religious commitment to operational targets vs. accomplishments, among other plans and programs.

Beyond gaming PAGCOR has allotted a huge portion of its income to projects that include the School Building Project, Feeding Program, Brigada Eskwela (a program designed to make schools environmentally sustainable and conducive to learning) and the Pamaskong Handog (an annual giftgiving activity), among others.

“PAGCOR is also at the forefront of various relief-giving operations during

Pagcor School Building Projects

PAGCOR’s distribution of school kits to public elementary schools in the province

times of disaster. The agency likewise provides financial assistance to fund certain programs of the National Bureau of Investigation (NBI) and the Philippine National Police (PNP) and lend aid to impoverished patients who need medical-related support,” Domingo divulged.

Recently, the agency also partnered with the Philippine Offshore Gaming Operators (POGO) Group in carrying out a 570-unit housing project with commercial units of 50 stores for the families displaced by the five-month war between the government forces and the ISIS-inspired Maute terrorist group in Marawi City.

According to Domingo, these projects that are intended to uplift the Filipinos’ state through education, infrastructure, health facilities, calamity aid, and sports development, complements PAGCOR’s function of promoting Philippine tourism by positioning the country as one of the top gaming and entertainment destinations in Southeast Asia.

On explosion and privatization Of course, PAGCOR’s central role will remain regulating and operating the exploding number of gaming establishments. And while the proposed privatization of the agency poses a challenge to the new leadership, Lim

claims that whatever the outcome will be, PAGCOR remains committed to ensuring that the gaming industry will continue to be advantageous to both the government and its constituents.

“PAGCOR sees the emergence of integrated resorts and other gaming establishments around Metro Manila as an opportunity rather than a threat as part of their earnings goes to the revenues remitted to the government,” Lim said of the two challenges facing the agency.

“Also, with these developments, PAGCOR is optimistic that it will continue to be instrumental in changing the local gaming industry landscape into a globally competitive one.

Adds Domingo, “Our goal is not only to increase revenues for the government, but to continuously become a primemover in making the Philippines a top gaming and entertainment destination in the ASEAN region.”

The gaming landscape may be changing faster than your daily commute, but as long as PAGCOR stays true to its proclaimed ideals, the new developments promise to create a multitude of opportunities for the Philippines that goes well beyond gaming.

Northern Samar Issue

WHAT’S INSIDE

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Blazing the Northern SamaR Trail

Where to go, what to see, and what to do in the naturally blessed Eastern Visayas province A lot has been said about Northern Samar’s most iconic destinations – the Biri rock formations, and the surreal panorama that surrounds (pictured above). First timers have inundated it with superlatives, artists have claimed to have had jolts of creative inspiration, some have described it as the abode of the gods, and plenty more have found its edge of the world beauty to be ineffable.

On the Cover: Hilulugayan Falls in the municipality of Silvino Lobos has entranced those who have dared to discover its promise of beauty and adventure. The raw allure of this cascade epitomizes the rewards that await those who stray from the beaten path, and into Northern Samar.

Photo by Celine Reyes

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Northern Samar Issue

WHAT’S INSIDE GRUB HUB

Hineleban Cafe

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Read up to find out how this café schools Manila on catching and riding coffee’s newest, most delicious wave yet.

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A Balkan Odyssey

Read up on what sights await you in the Balkan countries of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and Slovenia – and why it should be in your next holiday considerations.

A Healthful Array

Fill your grocery bag at this Alabang food joint, and reap the health benefits of Real Food.

TRAVEL

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Touring with the Tides

With the Philippines now a Star Cruises home port, you’re left with little reason not to embark on this unique travel experience.

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Jumping in the Deep Waters

Pilot, photographer and travel enthusiast Ian Ritter makes the case for getting out of your travel comfort zone.

founding Publisher

Murray Hertz (1928-2014) Publisher

Butch C. Bonsol Associate Publishers

Francesca L. Ortigas Vernon Prieto Editor-in-chief

Timothy Jay Araneta Ibay Editor AT LARGE

C. Jude Defensor Staff Writers

Richard Ramos Via Baroma Writers-AT-LARGE

Angie Duarte

Art, Layout and Design

Macjanry Imperio

SUPPLEMENTARY LAYOUT & special projects

Nikki Joy Habana

Contributing Writers

Celine Reyes, Jv Ramos, Ian Ritter, Paolo Nesi Contributing Photographers

Andie Duarte Syyap, Celine Reyes, Aye Mamba, Erish Dominic Ventura ADVERTISING sales officer

Leah Egamino-PalaĂąa sales executives

Bot Matias Ma. Victoria Soto FInance & admin officer

Fevelyn Bucio

Expat Travel & Lifestyle Vol. 11 Opinions expressed in this magazine are solely those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed

by Expat Communications. Reproduction in whole or in part, whether articles, photos, advertisement features and such, are strictly prohibited in any way without the written consent from the publishers and editors. Expat Communications cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material or photographs. Although the editors and writers ascertain to the veracity of all information published, they are not responsible for its possible changes.

Subscriptions > Advertising > Inquiries T. (02) 840 2996 or 812 0987 E. expatmag@gmail.com Expat Travel & Lifestyle Philippines is published quarterly by Expat Communications, Inc. Main Headquarters Unit 305, Cristina Condominium, 143 Legaspi cor. V.A. Rufino St., Legaspi Village, Makati City, Philippines Cebu Satellite Office M.J. Cuenco Ave. cor C. Mina St., Mabolo, Cebu City, Philippines. Telfax: (032) 412 8000 Expat Travel & Lifestyle is a registered trademark of the Philippines.

Copyright 2015. All rights reserved.

CONTRIBUTORS

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1) Celine Reyes Celine’s ultimate dream is to plant her own forest. She’s obsessed with trees and natural landscapes, trying her very best to articulate her experiences of these in her stories. On days when she’s not on the road or in the mountains, she lurks in thrift stores and hangs in an art cafe in Marikina where she’s found an audience for her original songs.

2) Jv Ramos is an independent writer, who engages in journalism and copy writing to pay the bills. But really, much of her writings have to do with unsung stories that fall under the fields of art, literature, sports history and social development. She, too, writes fiction and maintains a blog that tackles contemporary art. A Humanities graduate, she published a book on Philippine cinema’s Golden Age with professor Kathy Almajose, entitled Kakaibang Tingin, Kakaibang Titig in 2013. She currently works in and out of Manila.

3) Andie Duarte Syyap Teen shutterbug Andie Duarte Syyap’s passion for photography began at the early age of five years old, when – armed with her dad’s DSLR, a keen eye, and a whole lot of zeal – the spirited tot would snap pictures of whatever caught her fancy.

She continues to hone her talent, and particularly enjoys shooting black and white photos from “unlikely perspectives.” Andie views photography as an extension of her creative soul, and she pours her spirit into her work.

4) Ian Ritter Ian Ritter is a global wanderer, photographer, and airline pilot, in that order.

He is currently traversing the US in a converted Toyota 4Runner named “Ethel.” When he’s not behind a camera lens, he is in the cockpit of a Boeing 767. His mission is to explore more, work less, and make the world a little better each day. To see more of his photos and read about his adventures, follow him on Instagram @Ianjeremyritter and visit www.lifenevertomorrow.com.

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE Get to know the country you’re in from the people who know it best Get the heads up on where to be and places to see, where to eat, and everything else about the distinct Philippine beat All these and more, right at your fingertips

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ith the Pacific Ocean to its east, the San Bernardino Strait to its north, and the Samar Sea to its west, the coastal province assures a calming sojourn, peppered with adventure, that’s a treat for fans of the troika of sun, sand, and sea.

And Mikomiko Beach Resort in Mondragon, located at the center of the province just along the National Road, offers a luxurious way to experience the otherwise raw touristic treasures of Northern Samar.

Coconut trees, and cogon huts along with landscaping that blends effortlessly with its natural environ greet you as you step into what is one of the more upscale resorts in the entire province.

And with five villas, each with a king-sized bed, a 41inch TV, bathtub, waterfall shower, Wi-Fi, and veranda – Mikomiko Beach Resort provides a welcome break from the wealth of rugged charms to be enjoyed.

The resort’s restaurant, Blu Charm Café, presents you with an elevated idyllic view of the sea, that on a good sunny day, mirrors the glorious blue skies. Right next to the restaurant are sunbeds along each side an enticing infinity pool that just invites you to grab a few cold ones and breathe in the blessed day that surrounds.

On a normal day, even as the restaurant is open for walk-in diners who aren’t checked in to the resort, you’ll most likely have a good stretch of fine, cream sand beach all to yourself.

Mondragon may not usually jump out off the tourist radar, but with Mikomiko Beach Resort, an elevated Northern Samar experience awaits for the taking.

Words from the Editor

Blazing the Northern Samar Trail Seven thousand one hundred islands – that’s the number Filipinos have been taught to be what comprises this archipelago (with some sectors recently claiming that number to have grown to 7,641). And while we’ve had that figure ingrained in our brains for most of our lives, it’s still quite an impossible task to put that into perspective—particularly when it comes to the prospect of discovering most of what it has to offer.

So it doesn’t come as a surprise – even in this age of “wanderlust”-inundated social media – that new tropical gems are brought to mainstream consciousness every so often.

What surprises, though, is how a large part of Northern Samar – one of three provinces that make up the third largest island in the country – has continued to elude the tourism radar to this day.

That was the predominant reason why we decided to blaze the Northern Samar trail – a province that, for all its natural treasures, remains classified as one of the poorest in the country, albeit one that teeming with untapped potential.

And what a pleasant discovery it was.

Combing through 24 of its municipalities, we were shocked (with a hint of elation) by how potential touristic treasures could be found in virtually every corner of this Eastern Visayas province.

The fact that Northern Samar is

geographically blessed has long been established – as evidenced by how it was frequented centuries ago by galleons and exploratory ships from Europe and North America. But despite, and perhaps because of, it being a frequent entry point of tropical storms (due to its proximity to the Pacific elements), its topography is as blessed as any province in the entire archipelago.

The magnificently imposing rock formations of Biri have long been pegged as Northern Samar’s most iconic destination. But throughout the course of our exploration, we were thrilled to have found similar natural works of art around the province.

People are drawn to places like Boracay because they say its combination of pristine shores, secluded resorts, and thumping nightlife affords tourists everything they could want in an island destination. But what Northern Samar lacks in terms of luxury resorts, A-list clientele, and massive commercialized events, it more than makes up for in truly diverse natural offerings.

From emerald rivers with thickly forested banks, and picturesque beaches, to aweinspiring cascades, tranquil bays, and trails that lead to caves and mountain peaks – Northern Samar is a smorgasbord of delights for true explorers. Its ruggedness works in its favor to give it a raw, natural allure – allowing anyone who decides to head down to experience and enjoy nature like it was designed to be.

WHAT’S ON TECH

8 Apps

for Expats and Global Nomads We give you a list of helpful apps that aid in making sure that the only thing you worry about is having a grand time.

Words by Via Baroma

Be

Litfass Inc Created by Filipino-German couple, Ryan Stutzke and Gerrit Harjung, Be serves as your independent guide to Asia’s best neighborhoods, and the hippest events in the city.

Go beyond the usual tourist attractions, and eat, drink, and party where the locals are for the most authentic experiences in some of the most buzzing Philippine hoods.

Be also helps you be at the right place at the right time, with regularl updates about events in the places you’d like to explore.

Available on iOs and Android for free

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Go Manila FIMD

Make sense of the madness of the complicated urban jungle with Go Manila!

Envisioned for both locals and foreign tourists alike, the app serves as a virtual tour guide, and handy companion for commuters and travelers in the bustling Philippine capital.

Wunderlist: To-Do List and Tasks 6 Wunderkinder GmbH

Want to make sure your next trip goes as smooth as possible? Say goodbye to post-it notes and awkward screenshots by organizing your trip with Wunderlist - a task list organizer that allows you to worry only about having a great time.

The app’s features include real time traffic livestream, emergency contact information, and the heads up on the most popular attractions, restaurants, and nightspots.

Whether it’s your travel itineraries, or bucket lists, Wunderlist helps to remind you to tick off all your personal and professional to-dos. This app works seamlessly across all major devices, keeping your life in sync.

Available on iOs, Windows, and Android for free

Available on iOs, Windows, and Android for free

WHAT’S ON TECH

UNESCO World Heritage Sites TripBucket

If you’re a fan of traveling, history and culture, this is an app you need on your device as it provides an interactive guide to all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites around the world, including things to do both on and around the sites.

The app also has descriptions, maps, local weather updates, relevant articles, and tips to ensure you get the most out of each site.

You can also build and track your personal list of sites, read about and see photos of what other visitors have done.

Available on iOs and Android for free

Travisa Visa

Digitalchemy, LLC

Need a visa application form? Not sure about the processes and requirements?

With Travisa Visa, you can access detailed information on travel visa requirements for over 200 countries, as well as passport services, directly on your mobile device.

You’ll also be able to view consular fees for available visa types at any time, even when you don’t have internet connection!

With this app, your only concern is where to head next.

Have all of the world’s currencies at your fingertips, and manage your travel budget with this app.

Currency Converter Plus gives you access to live exchange rates, and allows you to conveniently calculate prices to help you stay within your means.

You can also view historical charts, and store your latest updates - ensuring that the app works even when the internet connection doesn’t.

Available on iOs and Android for free

Available on iOs and Android for free

Where to Go Philippines Grafitrix Digital Co.

With over 7,000 gorgeous islands to choose from, planning a trip to the Philippines can be overwhelming, and mind-boggling even for seasoned travelers.

From the breath-snatching, idyllic rolling hills of Batanes in the northernmost tip of Luzon, to the fabulous cascades of Lake Sebu in Mindanao, the Philippines has a cornucopia of aweinspiring destinations that are any traveler would find joy in.

Where to Go serves as your pocket tour guide for the different regions of the Philippines.

Just select your destination and the app will help you choose where to eat, shop, stay, and even get a list of popular wedding venues.

Available on iOs and Android for free

Currency Converter Plus

Travisa Visa Services

DuoLingo DuoLingo

Get the language barrier out of the way, and make sure nothing gets lost in translation with your travel experiences.

It won’t make you instantly fluent, conversing for hours, but it gives you the basic words and phrases essential for you to make the most of your trip.

The lessons start off easy, and gradually step up in difficulty as you become more familiar with your chosen language.

Duolingo is a really easy way to learn another language at home, while you’re commuting to work or even while waiting in the airport. They’ve set up the learning to be almost game-like, making each lesson fun.

Available on iOs and Android for free

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SPECIAL FEATURES

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Acapulco Picnic Area, Capul Set on a lush, grassy knoll, the campsite also features quick access to the beach. And if that’s not enough, there’s an island in sight that campers can also check out. Huts are available for the requisite beach chilling, while room accommodations are options for those who’d rather ease themselves into nature.

Unplug and Unwind

Experience the best of the Philippine outdoors hassle-free with the help of Campnearby

Maybe you’re tired of the expensive destinations, luxury hotels and resorts.

Perhaps you’ve been longing to get away from the madding concrete jungle and breathe in life while communing with nature.

Campnearby has now made it possible to book campsites in some of the most beautiful destinations around the country in an easy, convenient, and secure manner.

If any of these ring true – relax, recharge, and rejuvenate by camping in some of the most beautiful off beaten destinations these islands have to offer. And with websites like Campnearby enabling you to streamline your travel arrangements, connecting with nature has never been easier.

If you or someone you know own a beautiful piece of natural space, list it on Campnearby for other outdoor enthusiasts to discover and enjoy. By doing so, the otherwise idle land can earn income through those booking camping trips through the website.

Nature-sharing Campenearby (www.campnearby.com) allows you to book and reserve campsites, as well as the available activities and experiences, seamlessly online. Campers booked through Campnearby agree to follow the Leave No Trace principle, ensuring the nature is well taken care of during their stay.

With the Campnearby team believing in preserving the natural beauty of the land, landowners need not build on top of nature, but rather, around it. Campnearby hosts love their land and want to share it with people who appreciate its beauty as much as they do.

Founded by campers frustrated by the inability to book campsites online,

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If you’re ready to host, can refer fellow landowners, or need more information on Campnearby, contact Brian Huang at (0917) 893-1286.

For more information and to check availability of the sites, visit www.campnearby.com

SPECIAL FEATURES

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Tatay Dadoy, UEP White Beach, Catarman Perched on higher ground is Tatay Dadoy – which boasts of a beautiful seascape, with quick access to the beach. Campers can also hang out at the huts situated along the elevated edge of the beach. There’s also a roofed area for various activities.

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Langtaran Grove, Catarman An expansive shoreline, clean waters, and gorgeous sunsets are just a few of the things that make Langtaran Grove an ideal campsite.

Apart from having a designated bonfire area for campers, the unlimited access to the beach and the available equipment for water sports make for a fun, and laid back outdoor trip you should take.

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Pink Beach, San Vicente There are campsites on the beach, and by the shaded areas at the foot of the hill. If you’re looking to enjoy a gorgeous vantage of the island, a good hike up the hill will offer you just that.

And if the sands sprinkled with pulverized scarlet corals aren’t exotic enough, locals catch sea urchins, which is an equally unique delicacy, best enjoyed with vinegar!

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Onad’s Rest House, Rosario Situated parallel the river, Onad’s Rest House is as a relaxing a spot for campers as any. You can also rent a boat to see more of the water system that connects the town to the sea. In the early hours of the morning, you can buy the freshest catch for cheap, and enjoy them at night by the campfire.

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GRUB HUB

As Real as Food Gets Real Food in Alabang fills your grocery bag with the authentic basics of healthy eating Words by Angie Duarte Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

This generation is replete with big buzzwords and charismatic catchphrases, not among the least of which are artisanal, organic, sustainable, and farm-toeverything-you-can-possibly-think-of. Such words are thrown around between people seeking authenticity in their daily lives – a trait that many might ascribe to millennials, but I beg to differ. The quest for the authentic is a tale as old as time itself. The search for all things real is, in fact at the core of humanity’s being.

There is one neighborhood grocery in the laid-back southern township of Alabang that has dedicated itself to this mission, in the arena of food. And, to further highlight this bottom line, it simply goes by the name Real Food.

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Beyond buzzwords Real Food was conceived by mom-turned-entrepreneur and health advocate, Nicole Olbes-Fandiño in October of 2014 for what she candidly describes as “her own selfish reasons, initially.”

“I thought to myself: ‘Wouldn’t it be nice to have a farmer’s market-type shop, every day of the week, not just on weekends?’” Fandiño recounts. “I wanted the personal convenience of having healthy food products and ingredients available every day, in one shop. But, since it was my first venture into retail, I knew I had to have the right partners.”

Serendipity worked is magic, and, through a series of fortunate events, Fandiño found those partners in longtime, like-minded friends, Bea Lucero-Lhullier, Honey Hagedorn-Almendral, and Katrina Sandejas-Mañosa.

Together, the four dynamic women brought the healthy haven to life in April of 2016. Since its opening, Real Food has sought to go beyond mere buzzwords, and get to the very heart of the matter: using nutrition to create and sustain health.

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2 (1) Health-conscious foodies, filling their grocery lists (2) Your friendly grocers (L-R), Honey Almendral, Nicole Fandiño, Katrina Mañosa, Bea Lhullier (Photo courtesy of Noe Fandiño) (3) A colorful feast of healthful ingredients (4) Among Real Food’s mantras (5) Eat good, feel good with this array of products (6) Handcrafted, locally sourced chocolate bars.

GRUB HUB

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“It’s fulfilling to know that the business has become an enabler of the healthier lifestyle. We help people, including children, make better choices in their diet by providing products that fit their specific needs, like gluten-free options and other products suitable for other dietary restrictions,” shares Lhullier. “We even get to assist cancer patients by giving them easier access to organic food without potentially harmful hormones. It’s rewarding being able to be a part of that.”

“We stock our shelves with as many local products as we can. In fact, 90 percent of our items come from local micro industries – co-ops, farms, small enterprises, the like; take for instance the delicious danggit (a type of dried fish) made by fisherfolk in a remote town in Palawan. Distribution is often a problem; so, we help our suppliers learn the ropes, and their wonderful products end up on our shelves,” Fandiño explains.

Local advocates The women behind the grocery are not only passionate about real, healthful food, but also about supporting local farmers across the country. While the store carries a percentage of imported items, most of its nearly 1,000 products are locally sourced from about 200 suppliers.

“Our farmers are also our friends already – and they bring us all sorts of exotica to try. I am so adoring of our suppliers. I often ask them to come and brief the staff about their products; the benefits, how they make it, for instance.

We value and share that information with our customers,” she adds.

The women behind the grocery are not only passionate about real, healthful food, but also about supporting local farmers across the country. While the store carries a percentage of imported items, most of its nearly 1,000 products are locally sourced from about 200 suppliers.

A healthful array of ingredients To the delight of health-conscious foodies, Real Food offers an array of products, from dressings and sauces, to gluten-free baked treats, mixed root chips, grassfed proteins, vegan and vegetarian foodstuff, probiotic brewed teas, natural sweeteners, dairy-free ice cream, multigrain loaves, handcrafted chocolate, seeds and nuts, free-range eggs, all sorts of goodness-packed powders (such as moringa, mixed berries, etc.) and supplements – the list goes on.

True to the name and vision, Real Food’s products are as organic and unprocessed as possible. As Lhullier points out: “We’ve always believed in making healthier choices; so, it’s important to know where your food comes from and how it is produced, so you can make sure that it doesn’t contain anything that you wouldn’t want in your system. That’s why we offer products that are organic and chemical-free. It’s really about getting food in its purest, freshest state to get the maximum benefits.”

Board the centuries-old bandwagon – give Real Food a try, and reap the very real benefits of health. As none other than Hippocrates once admonished, “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.”

Now there’s a deliciously authentic way to wellbeing.

Visit Real Food at Molito Lifestyle Mall, Madrigal Avenue, Alabang, Muntinlupa.

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GRUB HUB

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Skillfully Riding the (Third) Wave Hineleban Café schools Manila on catching and riding coffee’s newest, most delicious wave yet Words by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

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In the busy city center of Makati, along one of its busiest major arteries, tucked into a bike and surf store is Hineleban (pronounced Hě-nē-leu-bän) Café a coffee shop that is committed to transforming more than just life’s hectic pace, one cup of third wave coffee at a time.

Each concoction of the finest single origin Arabica beans from Bukidnon is skillfully, meticulously prepared by knowledgeable baristas who are ready and able to school you in all things third wave coffee. They take their time, belying the business right outside the shop’s doors, to do justice to the beans. After all, this is not just any coffee – these beans have been rated “Excellent” by none other than Seattle-based developer of the Specialty Coffee Association’s cupping scoring sheet, Marty Curtis.

But, I get ahead of myself.

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More than semantics Speaking with vivacious Claudia Perrine, who founded the café in April 2017, is an enriching foray into specialty coffee. Her soulful brown eyes light up as she shares the origins of Hineleban Café, birthed as an initiative both to showcase the Arabica, as well as to support the farmers who grow the beans in the northern Mindanao region of Bukidnon.

chains,” explains Perrine. “Our coffee is so special, that it was given a rating of 86.25, which falls under the category of ‘EXCELLENT’ during the SCA Global Expo in Seattle in April this year.”

To distinguish, the term third wave refers to high-quality, single origin coffee methodically prepared using specific methods such as Aeropress, French Press, Siphon, and Pour Over, for instance.

Coffee, the way it should be Some bestsellers include the Mocha, a delightful combination of honey processed coffee, mixed with tablea (a tablet of pure cacao) from Davao and fresh milk from Laguna, served cold or hot; the Hineleban version of Café Au Lait, coffee poured over cold milk (employing the Kalita or Hario method), and iced; and D’ Claude, a specialty drink made of washed coffee and Tuminugan honey, using the Aeropress

“Basically, first-wave and second-wave coffee are more commercial in nature, with the former referring to large-scale commercial coffee production, and the latter referring to commercial coffee

The difference is more than mere semantics – and the proof lies in every cup of flavorful, well-rounded, smooth coffee served up by Hineleban’s baristas.

GRUB HUB

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“To understand Hineleban Café, you first have to understand what Hineleban Foundation is all about. Hineleban Café was opened to showcase the produce of the growers. We serve only locally grown Arabica by the Indigenous People of Bukidnon in Transformational Business Partnership with Hineleban Foundation,” explains Renee Araneta-Perrine, the foundation’s Marketing Director.

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(1) The coffee bar (2) Hineleban Cafe’s founder, Claudia Perrine (3) Expert baristas, all in a row (4) The shop’s version of Cafe Au Lait (5) Smooth and flavorful Mocha coffee (6) Delicous Adlay dishes served at the cafe (7) Bags of Hineleban’s premium Arabica coffee beans 5

method and served over ice. Coffee beans are either semi-washed, fully washed, or honey processed, with each variant bearing district flavor and body profiles. If it all gets a bit overwhelming, don’t fret: the café’s baristas are on-hand to walk you through the process and give you a crash course in Third Wave Coffee 101, Hineleban-style.

an alternative to rice, the menu features Adlay, an indigenous grain from Aglayan, Malaybalay, also in Bukidnon. Adlay is not only versatile (it may be cooked in a variety of delectable ways), it is a superfood packed with nutritional benefits, is gluten-free, and boasts a low glycemic index.

“When we first opened, people would come here looking for the sweet and creamy, or milk-based commercial coffees they were used to. We have since helped to educate and turn people to a healthier, more specialty kind of coffee; creations which allow the true flavor of the bean to shine through. We enjoy doing that,” Perrine notes.

Bestsellers include palate-pleasing dishes (developed by celebrity cook, Sabrina Artadi) such as Chicken, Shrimp and Fish Curry with Adlay, naturally flavored Pork Tapa with Adlay, and Chicken Chorizo with Adlay, all of which are free from additives and preservatives.

Palate-pleasing plates Hinelaban Café also offers appetizing dishes, bursting with healthful flavor. As

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For every bag of Hineleban Coffee you purchase, the foundation plants a forest tree.

Coffee with conscience Of course, the Hineleban Café story would be incomplete without mentioning its tightly intertwined relationship with the Hineleban Foundation.

“Hineleban,” Renee points out, “is an epic story from the indigenous Binukid dialect described as ‘The Mother Tree of the Rainforest’ that sustains the cycle of all life.”

To perpetuate this, the foundation – and by extension, the café – exerts every effort to sustain this cycle of life. For instance, the foundation works in partnership with the indigenous tribes to uplift their lives (by helping to increase their crop yield and providing them a sustainable income) and to restore the rainforest.

“One campaign we started is Sip and Reforest,” Claudia shares. “It’s really a unique and effective program, and our customers love that they can make a real difference while enjoying their coffee.”

“For every bag of Hineleban Coffee you purchase, the foundation plants a forest tree. You will find on the back of each coffee bag a Tree Code of the GPS coordinates of the tree that was planted,” Renee expounds.

With its commitment to great coffee, good food, and to transforming farmers’ lives and the environment, Hineleban Café is all set to generate a wave that is bigger, more powerful than the one it expertly rides.

Visit Hineleban Café at 830 Antonio Arnaiz Ave., Makati. Learn more about Hineleban Foundation at www.hineleban.org expat 23

GRUB HUB

The Misconceptions of Wine Education

A restaurateur/sommelier’s take on what the bottom line is when it comes to ‘proper’ wine appreciation Words by Paolo Nesi Art by Macjanry Imperio

Nowadays, it is impossible not to talk about wines.

Movies, documentaries TV shows, podcasts etc., are produced on the subject, magazines and newspapers are either dedicated or have a section about it.

Hollywood stars and personalities are endorsing, or even growing wines, wine tourism is showing double digit growth in the US and Europe, while the same level of growth is reported by wine education companies such as Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) –the largest wine education company in the world.

Pretentious turn-off Yet, I’ve met so many people that are almost afraid of wines, particularly when listening to sommeliers or wine critics describing wines as voluptuous, crispy, multilayer, hollow, with scent of cat pee, flint stones, tar, and referring to Nordic forest berries that have never been eaten or seen. It puts off some people because they fear they can never be able to capture those aromas in wines, and just to choose a bottle of wine at a restaurant is becoming a responsibility that many fear.

Even making an educated purchase decision in the quiet wine corner of a grocery store is also becoming a hurdle with so many picturesque labels to choose from.

Let’s be honest, there is also a lot of pretentiousness and arrogance sometimes by so-called wine buffs, educators, bloggers, and so on, that put a lot of people off. “I just can’t get it and I cannot bother with it, I just have a beer,” a friend of mine said recently. I cannot blame him.

Consumption is the purpose But except for those with congenital disease of the sense of smell, everybody - and I really mean everybody – can become a wine connoisseur, by properly training the area of the brain that controls the sense of smell, and re-activating it, since it is a function that humans need the least.

Wine festivals, classes and “talks” have started to be offered increasingly in the Philippines. Long gone are those days in the early 90s when the whole thing was just a novelty, and when spirits where the preferred choice.

These events are fun, and if all you want is to drink

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wine and have a good time, then there is no need to know more about it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it because at the end of the day, wine is produced to be consumed and not to be talked about, let alone spit!

For those, however that would like to know more about what’s in the bottle, where should they start?

Learning options Here in Manila, as far as I know, there isn’t a formal sommelier school with global recognition, or other wine schools except for the WSET of London, which has two Approved Program Providers (APP) with certified educators. WSET has a systematic approach to tasting and learning about wines and it offers four levels of courses. Level 1 (one-day course) would be best for somebody that has no prior knowledge. Level 2 requires four days in class, involves the tasting of more than 40 wines, and ends with a 50-item multiple choice exam.

This is recommended for people that have some familiarity with wines.

The learning gets more intense should you choose to move on to Level 3, while Level 4 is just short of a master level course, entailing two years of online study and six units/exams to be undertaken in London, or in other APP in the region.

Unfortunately, this is not currently offered in the Philippines.

Other options are online courses by Wine Spectator, Jancis Robinson, The Wine Advocate, The French Wine Scholar, International Sommelier Guild, Court of Master Sommeliers, Master Sommelier, and Master of Wines (in order of difficulty and experience required).

These courses will give you the tools to compartmentalize your knowledge and be able to look at a label – say, a Chablis – and automatically think of cold climate, unoaked, high acidity, low fruit intensity, low alcohol and “skinny” style of Chardonnay, which in turn will lead you to the knowledge of whether to order it or not with a veal ossobuco.

Your practice and memory will make you discover that, in fact, few Chablis are oaked, have aromatic complexity and flavor intensity.

GRUB HUB

It has also been proven that money spent by wine distributors, restaurants and wine shop owners on professionally educating their sales staff can trigger higher sales and customer satisfaction. It is probably not a coincidence that all the students that passed the WSET Level 2 here in Manila are employed in the field of wines.

Taste, taste, taste!

As you keep participating in wine events, you’ll get increasingly more experience (and information) that will inevitably lead to the growth of your knowledge about wines.

Organizing wine tasting with friends is also a very good way to learn. I suggest doing thematic tastings, such as Chardonnay from different countries, compare and contrast Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, wines from Alsace, and so on. Remember to take notes! Forgetting what was in the glass you enjoyed is akin to never even tasting it.

The bottom line Continued practice, conducting personal research, and reading the plethora of materials available on wine will, of course, further your expertise on the subject. But the most important thing is to always have fun. Wine appreciation is not a science!

A question that I often get is: “Will studying about wine change what I currently like?” No, your taste buds will still have a preference for the wines that you currently like, and there is nothing wrong with it.

What you learn however, is not to say things such as “I hate Chardonnay” or “I don’t like Merlot,” because you’ll discover that there are so many different styles of any grape variety that it is impossible to discount them all.

Drinking wine should always be simple. “Tasting” it is what takes an acquired skill set.

Cheers!

Drinking wine should always be simple.

“Tasting” it is what takes an acquired skill set.

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GLOBAL VIEW

A Balkan OdySsey LAST OF 4 PARTS

Expat Associate Publisher Vernon Prieto gives an overview of what to expect in the beautiful Balkan countries of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and Slovenia in the last of his Balkan travels series Words and photos by Vernon Prieto

Dubrovnik, Croatia’s “Jewel of the Adriatic”

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The last installment of my Balkan adventure puts the spotlight on the westernmost Balkan countries, namely: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Slovenia. All the three nations were constituent republics of the now defunct Socialist Federalist Republic of Yugoslavia together with Macedonia, Montenegro, and Serbia, including its two autonomous provinces: Kosovo and Vojvodina.

The mountainous Bosnia and Herzegovina is a politically complex nation and is comprised of the autonomous Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Republika Srpska, and the Brčko District. It has a three-member presidency, with each President representing one of the three constituent people: Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs. Majority of the Bosniaks are Muslims, the Croats are Catholic, while the Serbs are Orthodox.

It is one of the most frequently visited countries in the Balkans. The three most interesting places to visit are Sarajevo – the nation’s captivating capital, the fabled Mostar, and the hallowed Medjugorje.

Jerusalem of the Balkans Sarajevo, nicknamed the “Jerusalem of the Balkans,” is the only significant European city that boasts mosques, synagogues, a Catholic cathedral and churches, and Orthodox Church within the same locality.

Touring the capital must start at the “Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures” marker along Ferhadija Street. The marker is located in the Stari Grad municipality, or Old Town, and indicates the demarcation between east and west, where the exotic Ottoman old quarter meets the more modern Austro-Hungarian sector.

(1) Newly restored “Stari Most” in beautiful Mostar (2) Neum is the only town along Bosnia’s mere 20km coastline (3) Shrine of the Queen of Peace of Medjugorje (4) Flavorful Bosnian Coffee.

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To the marker’s east is where your shopping fix can be indulged at the Baščaršija – the city’s old bazaar. Among the must-visits are the coppersmith shops, cafes serving fragrant Bosnian coffee, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and the Sebilj—a pseudo-Ottoman-style wooden fountain located in the square.

The west side is lined with imposing edifices in the Austro-Hungarian architectural style of the period from 1878 to 1918. Down the road is the stately Sacred Heart Cathedral, which was completed in 1887.

An interesting site, which is easy to miss, is near the Latin Bridge—the site of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand and his wife, the Austro-Hungarian heir to the throne. The incident in 1914 triggered the start of World War I.

Balkan pilgrimage A two-hour drive from Sarajevo is Mostar – considered the most important city in Herzegovina, and is one of the most

beautiful Ottoman towns in the Balkans.

Its legendary bridge, the Stari Most (Old Bridge), is inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was damaged during the Bosnian War but is now fully restored.

Around 25 kilometers southwest of Mostar and close to the border of Croatia is Medjugorje. It is a major pilgrimage site renowned for the apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to six Herzegovinian children in 1981. Crnica Hill has become a destination for devotees – who often climb barefoot along the difficult path to the site where Our Lady of Medjugorje is believed to have appeared.

Saint James Catholic Church and Shrine dominates the town’s landscape, which is dotted by religious shops. For pilgrims looking for a place to stay, I recommend the wonderful Herceg Ethno Village Resort.

It is built as a traditional village complete with stone houses for accommodations, adjacent art shops and even a barn with farm animals, while its restaurant serves authentic regional cuisine and wines.

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Balkan holiday Croatia is ranked the 18th most popular tourist destination in the world, and justifiably so. It boasts many impressive UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as Plitvice Lakes National Park, Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian, Euphrasian Basilica in the Historic Centre of Poreč, Historic city of Trogir, Cathedral of Saint James in Sibenik, among others. The crown jewel among Croatia’s UNESCO sites is the Old City of Dubrovnik. It lies on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Dalmatia and is considered a trendy holiday destination in the Mediterranean area.

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A stunning panorama of the city, as well as the ocean and the adjacent islands (most notably the “cursed” Lokrum Island), can be enjoyed from Dubrovnik’s imposing ancient walls. Remarkable sites in the fortified town include many churches and monasteries, such as the much-loved St. Blaise’s church built in honor of the city’s patron saint.

HBO’s massively popular “Game of Thrones” has been shot in the city. During my last visit, I had the pleasure of watching the preparations for the filming of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.”

Although the greater part of the tourism industry is focused on the Adriatic coast, Zagreb, the nation’s capital draws many visitors to its doorsteps as well. The capital is rich in history and not lacking of magnificent attractions like Kaptol Square in the city’s upper town, where splendid buildings, galleries, churches, palaces, museums and the majestic Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary are situated.

Around the cathedral are many souvenir shops, shopping centers, and cafes, while the flower and produce markets are just a short stroll away.

Balkan gateway Like Croatia, Slovenia is one of only five Balkan countries that are European Union member states. Unlike Croatia though, it is one of only two Schengen member states in the Balkans, with the other being

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Greece. This has made it an obvious choice as a gateway to the region. In my opinion, Slovenia is the least Balkan among all the Balkan countries. Its topography is very similar to Austria and Switzerland, and the people seem more Germanic than Slavic – probably because of the proximity to the aforementioned countries. Again, it’s just my opinion.

Slovenia is a gorgeous country with stunning landscapes of mountains, valleys, forests and lakes. The capital city of Ljubljana is very compact and easy to get around. Overlooking the city is the picturesque Ljubljana Castle, built in the 12th century. Other interesting sites in the

(5) Mostar is located along the Neretva River (6) Caravanserai in Sarajevo’s old town (7) Peaceful Street in downtown Zagreb (8) Red Tile roofscape of Dubrovnik (9) Tranquil Lake Bled (10) Market day in Zagreb (11) Sacred Heart Cathedral in Sarajevo (12) Zagreb boasts an efficient tram network (13) Statue of Our Lady in Apparition Hill, Medjugorje.

GLOBAL VIEW Bosnia & Herzegovina, croatia and slovenia

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To book your own Balkan Odyssey, contact:

Rajah Travel Corporation 3/F 331 Building, 331 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati (02) 894-0886 (02) 817-7903 intltoursmkt@rajahtravel.com www.rajahtravel.com Turkish Airlines 14/F BDO Equitable Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati (02) 894-5419 or (02) 894-5421 or (02) 864-0600 (reservations) or (02) 854-5419 (sales) (02) 864-0598 ticketing@thy.com.ph or mnlgroupdesk@thy.com.ph www.turkishairlines.com 11

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city include the Town Hall, Robba Fountain in Town Square, and Ljubljana Cathedral of St. Nicholas, while the two most visited tourist magnets in Slovenia are Lake Bled and Postonja Caves.

Lake Bled is mesmerizing, captivating, bewitching, yet peaceful and placid. It is what fairy tales are made of. The alpine glacial lake has a small island that is home to the Assumption of Mary Pilgrimage Church, where it is custom for visitors to ring its bell for good luck. To get to the island, one must ride a “pletna” – a traditional flat-bottomed wooden boat.

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Nestled on a precipice above the tranquil lake is the lovely Bled Castle where one can enjoy the most wonderful views of the lake, island and surrounding mountains.

Bled is also known for the delicious “kremšnita” (Bled Cream Cake), which originated from the kitchen of the Hotel Park in 1953. The dessert is formed by layers of puff pastry, custard, whipped cream, puff pastry and icing. Yummy!

Postonja Cave is a karst cave system

created by the Pivka River millions of years ago. The cave became a tourist destination after Archduke Ferdinand visited in 1819. There is a train that takes you down two kilometers into the bowels of the earth. It is not difficult to maneuver around the cave and it is child and elderly-friendly. Another cave system that merits mention is the UNESCO listed Skocjan Caves, which is less visited but just as remarkable. It is acknowledged to rank among the most important caves in the world.

I hope you enjoyed traveling with me as I recalled my joyous trips to the Balkan Peninsula. If you are wondering how to get there, I can only think of one way: the best way – via Turkish Airlines. Turkish Airlines flies twice daily to all the capital cities in the Balkans from its hub in amazing Istanbul. They also fly to other tourist destinations such as Cluj, Constanta, Dubrovnik, Pula, Split, Thessaloniki, Varna and Zadar. You can also consider cities in neighboring countries such as Budapest, Kosice, Prague, Vienna, and Venice as gateways to the Balkans.

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GLOBAL VIEW

Touring

Tides

with the

Living on an archipelago surrounded by water, it’s strange how for many Filipinos, sea travel is still mostly an unusual, exotic mode of transportation. Considering our geography, boats and ships should be vessels we’re as familiar with as buses and Boeings. What a paradox it is that, since the dawn of the jet age, it’s become almost impossible for ordinary Filipino tourists to cross our borders without boarding a plane. With several neighboring countries just a day’s cruising distance away and the ever-increasing hassles of air travel, it’s making more sense than ever to journey by sea.

Words and photos by C. Jude Defensor Additional photos courtesy of Via Baroma

The SuperStar Virgo sails the blue waters of the South China Sea

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GLOBAL VIEW

Star Cruises finally allows us to hearken back to a more genteel age of international travel. Cruise ships of varied origins have already been calling on different ports around the country. But these have only stopped over as itinerant visitors, their guests limited to those who’ve already embarked at foreign ports. This is the first time in living memory that Philippine-based travelers can book and board a cruise ship right here in Manila.

With time as the greatest luxury of all, going on a cruise proves you have the wherewithal to afford to spend this priceless resource. Cruise travel just has a certain more wholistic je ne sais quoi. There’s a more palpable sense of being on a voyage, of forward movement, despite the relatively staid speed. The whole routine of docking and undocking is somewhat soothing in a way that strapping in for take-off and landing just can’t compete with. There’s a different excitement upon first opening the door to your cabin.

It’s a significantly more evocative ritual compared to getting into a plane seat.

Onboard, settling in also stirs romantically decadent feelings that you don’t quite get from unpacking your bags in a hotel.

of the ship’s motions. If you’re lucky enough to sail in calm waters, all it feels like is a gentle hum, a barely perceptible rocking motion.

Something for everyone At 13 storeys high, the Virgo is large enough to be reasonably successful at offering something for everybody, from hyperactive rugrats to jaded retirees.

Asian cuisine dominates across the ship’s restaurants, with emphasis on Chinese dishes tweaked mostly for Filipino palates.

But there’s sure to be a menu or dish, from Mediterranean to Japanese, acceptable to anyone’s palate somewhere onboard.

Some great bargains are to be found among the duty-free shops, which offer an eclectic selection of international brands and local delicacies.

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The sea air and fresh breezes, the refreshing spray from where the prow cuts into the foam, somehow makes booze taste more potent and new friends easier to find.

The sea air and fresh breezes, the refreshing spray from where the prow cuts into the foam, somehow makes booze taste more potent and new friends easier to find. As you get to interact with and know the members of the crew and your fellow cruisers more and more, familiarity begets coziness, a growing sense of cocooning comfort. The Dutch call it gzellig, the Danes have branded it as hygge, in Filipino, it’s getting past the “namamahay” phase and finally feeling “hayahay.” It means starting to let go and give in to the lulling embrace 1

3 (1) Make a dramatic entrance down the Virgo’s grand staircase and atrium (2) The view of Manila, its latest homeport, from a cabin on the Virgo 2

(3) Enjoy Hong Kong’s peerless shopping and restaurant scene from afternoon to evening

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GLOBAL VIEW

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With pools, a gym, karaoke and game rooms, live shows, in-room entertainment and internet, there’s absolutely no need to worry about being caught spending an idle moment onboard, unless that’s precisely one’s plan. Across six days, five nights and three shore excursions, you have barely enough time to sample every one of its dining, shopping and entertainment offerings before you realize that the ship is already sailing back into Manila harbor.

The shipboard casino is a major, and for some guests, the main attraction of the cruise. With Star Cruises being a sister company of Resorts World, you can expect the same level of gaming expertise and entertainment.

Adventure and architecture From Manila, the Virgo’s first stop is Currimao, a seaside town in the province of Ilocos Norte, strategically positioned in between the celebrated heritage city of Vigan, and the vibrant provincial capital of Laoag. There’s only enough time for one or the other though, so choose wisely. By skipping Vigan and opting for the full-on Ilocos Norte tour, one gets an arguably more diverse and adventurous jaunt around the province. You can still get your fill of impressive heritage architecture, including UNESCO World Heritage sites, in the storied and scenic towns of Paoay or Laoag.

The rich flavors of Ilocano cuisine are also worth a sampling. Bagnet, a cured, crisp hunk of pork belly, is the gut-busting star of their culinary offerings. You can counter this with Pinakbet, a savory vegetable dish of string beans, okra, and eggplant, seasoned with shrimp paste.

The Laoag option also allows you to experience the thrill of riding up and down the Paoay sand dunes in a 4x4. Expect a somewhat bumpier, dustier off-the-rails rollercoaster. If you’d like to keep your adrenaline levels to a minimum, sipping cocktails by the beach at the Fort Ilocandia or Sitio Remedios resorts are enticing lowimpact options.

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Emerald Isle of Empires Bidding farewell to Philippine waters, the Virgo voyages north to Kaohsiung – Taiwan’s second largest and most important urban center. Going by distance, this bustling port is the closest major foreign city to the Philippines. Considering its proximity, it’s puzzling how up until this cruise, it may not have really registered much on most Filipino travelers’ radars.

The modern, pleasant metropolis features good bargain shopping and yummy Taiwanese treats. Lovers of cute tchotchkes, stationery and pineapple pastries are bound to have a (literal) field day.

A thriving arts scene offers up eclectic and avant-garde shows and exhibitions across several venues. The city also presents several architectural landmarks such as the colorful and dramatic Love Bridge and the psychedelic Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard, possibly one of the world’s most imaginative metro stations.

The neighboring heritage city of Tainan boasts the island’s oldest colonial fort.

Lovingly preserved with manicured gardens, it’s an oasis of culture and history. In Tainan’s outskirts, the expansive Chimei Museum offers a selfie-friendly backdrop with its neoclassical architecture, landscaped grounds, and imposing statuary of mythological deities. Its motley collection of weapons, European art and rare

instruments, is surprisingly extensive and meticulously arranged.

You can say it’s a pretty good encapsulation of Taiwan in general. For most tourists, it offers up something vaguely familiar and comforting, with all modern conveniences and a welcoming vibe.

But the country also somehow balances deep respect for history while pursuing cutting-edge technology. The Philippines may love to draw attention to its mixedup culture, but Taiwan’s colonial past is just as colorful. Several European powers and two Asian empires have all left their marks on the island. It’s here where major ideologies have drawn their lines on the sand. Their imprints can be subtly discerned everywhere on the island, from the food and architecture to the Taiwanese outlook on life and geopolitics. So much epic drama for what seems to be a relatively unassuming spot in the South China Sea. The island may be compact but boasts a varied topography that’s green and hilly, studded with lakes and beaches. Taiwan’s agriculture is famed for advanced farming techniques, and it shows in the freshness of their cuisine. Its familiar Asian flavors are more comforting than challenging, tending more towards the hearty and subtle.

Appropriately enough, beef noodles are the island’s main staple go-to dish. Like a warm hug, this bowl of love goes down just as good at nippy hilltop towns as sunny

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Discover the Splendor 8

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(4)(5) Heritage architecture and cuisine, plus lots of sun and sand, guarantee great impressions of Ilocandia in northern Philippines (6)(7)(8)(11) World-class entertainment and facilities fill your days and nights onboard with color and excitement (9)(10) Touring the cities of Kaohsiung and Tainan in southern Taiwan reveals an island full of history, culture, great food and art

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At 13 storeys high, the Virgo is large enough to be reasonably successful at offering something for everybody, from hyperactive rugrats to jaded retirees. beachside villages. Make sure to slurp one up before the Virgo’s horn blows “all aboard!”

out on Mar. 19, circling the ports of call until May 29.

The ship slinks into the Hong Kong cruise terminal just in time for an afternoon and evening full of frenzied shopping and food tripping in one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities. This isn’t exactly the best introduction to the fragrant harbor for first-timers. But frequent visitors will already know exactly what to do and where to go for maximal retail and gustatory therapy within the time allotted. The cruise’s last day is spent wholly on the high seas, with a special gala dinner giving cruisers the chance to dress up and sup in style.

Fortunately, the powers-that-be were reportedly able to overcome the birthing and berthing pains that affected the inaugural cruise and eventually offer a stress-free experience. Considering the high interest levels and flood of cruiserelated posts and photos on social media during its run, we can safely say that the Philippines is primed for a boost in cruise tourism. The Department of Tourism has an ambitious target of 300 cruise calls by 2021. As the country’s tourism industry further develops and incomes rise, it’s not far off to expect this number to be revised upwards before long.

Home is where the port is Is the Virgo’s combination of visa-free entry and unlimited baggage allowance enough to put it on the map? At least 2,200 passengers on the inaugural voyage thought so. The six-day, five-night Jewels of the South China Sea cruise first set

Because of the ship’s former provenance as a Baltic sailing vessel, most of her topranked crew hail from Scandinavia. These modern-day Vikings have turned their backs on their ancestors’ pillaging past, and now command the seas through more placid means and much warmer waters. The

As the flagship of the fleet in Asia, Superstar Virgo’s 13-storey ship features 935 cabins, and carries 2,400 passengers and a crew of 1,100.

Cruise amenities include the outdoor Greek-themed swimming pool with its 100-metre mega water slide, 15 food and beverage outlets, a beauty salon, a library, a spa and health club, karaoke rooms and entertainment, fitness centers, a basketball court, mini-golf and even a jogging track.

Tantalize your taste buds at over 10 restaurants and bars aboard featuring Blue Lagoon (Asian snacks), Genting Palace (Western cuisine), Mediterranean Restaurant (International cuisine), Noble House (Chinese cuisine), Palazzo (Western), Pavilion (Chinese cuisine), Samurai Restaurant (Japanese cuisine), and The Taj (Indian cuisine).

With their contemporary styling, luxurious fittings, and sophisticated ambience, the cabins provide the comforts and facilities you have come to expect - from Executive Suites to Oceanview Stateroom with private balconies and Inside Staterooms.

Superstar Virgo is owned and operated by Hong Kong-based cruise line Star Cruises, a group that has repeatedly won awards and was dubbed as “the most popular cruise line in Asia.”

To book your own Superstar Virgo experience, contact: Star Cruises Manila, Philippines 4th floor, Star Cruises Centre, 100 Andrews Avenue, Newport Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines 1309 (02) 836-6830/31/32 or (02) 836-6080 (02) 836-6835 salesmanila@starcruises.com www.starcruises.com

skipper himself, Captain Jan Blomqvist, hails from a small island right between Sweden and Finland, where he grew up dreaming of sailing the world. A significant Filipino contingent makes up the rest of the ship’s staff, which adds to the sense of having one big family onboard caring for all the guests. This means it’s impossible to feel homesick, but almost seems more like a homecoming. After this season, we look forward to another SuperStar calling the port of Manila home again soon. expat 33

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Words and photos by Ian Ritter Additional photos by Juan Oliphant and Casey Allen

Cassie from Saving Wildlife Project with shark

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GLOBAL VIEW

Sharks filled my view as I hesitantly peered into the water below, with at least 12 of them eagerly swimming in the blue water just behind our vessel.

They were large, intimidating, and I was moments from leaping into the ocean with them. Standing on the back of the eco-tour boat named, “Deep Obsession,” my mind began to say, “This seemed a much better idea from the safety of dry land.”

But there was no time to reconsider because Autumn, the bubbly blonde leading our excursion had just shouted, “Dive, dive, dive!” signaling my jump into the toothy abyss. Despite my hundreds of previous dives across the globe, I couldn’t help feeling a special thrill and awe while swimming in the wide-open ocean with beautifully free sharks. If you’re wondering how I got here, just ask Google.

Quick! Ask the oracle at the internet Eco-tour activities like swimming in a sea full of sharks are safe because of the incredible knowledge and experience of the guides. Their local savvy makes these special opportunities available to people like us who don’t have the know-how without their help. Best of all, these trips are easy to find and not limited to shark diving.

A quick internet search of “Eco-tour (country name),” will provide a long list of options specific to your location. Most are rated by previous customers on sites like Yelp, Travel Advisor, and Google, so you’ll have a detailed idea about the price, length of time, and exactly what your adventure entails.

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There really are no words to describe what it is to be in the water with sharks. You just need to experience it for yourself. I, myself, have always had a deep respect for sharks, yet diving with them opened up my eyes and confirmed they truly aren’t mindless killing machines

About Ian p Ian Ritter is a global wanderer, photographer, and airline pilot, in that order. He is currently traversing the United States in a converted Toyota 4Runner named, “Ethel.” When he’s not behind a camera lens, he is in the cockpit of a Boeing 767. His mission is to explore more, work less, and make the world a little better each day. To see more pictures and read about his adventures, follow him on Instagram @Ianjeremyritter and visit www.lifenevertomorrow.com

(1) Feared by many, the Lemon Shark is actually non-aggressive by nature (2) Lemon Shark with dive master Autumn

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Sure, breaking out of the comfort zone may be an intimidating prospect at first, but the only way to enjoy the rich experiences is by making the leap

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Life is short, do something different The fore mentioned shark dive was not my first time scuba diving, but it was my first venture into eco-tourism. These adventures are frequently small scale, environmentally minded outings that offer a wonderful alternative to larger, more traditional (read: boring and mainstream) tourism. And shark diving is just one of the plethora of possibilities! Other popular outings include rock climbing, boat trips, and culinary hikes.

Cassie Paumard, from the non-profit, Saving Wildlife Project, has this to say about her experiences shark diving: “There really are no words to describe what it is to be in the water with sharks. You just need to experience it for yourself. I, myself, have always had a deep respect for sharks, yet diving with them opened up my eyes and confirmed they truly aren’t mindless killing machines.” Here is just a glimpse of how a 36 expat

better understanding of the environment helps our earth.

You’ll be saving the world – one vacation at a time Don’t let the “environmentally mindful” fool you! Most of these tours are not about hugging trees. What the environmentally conscious really mean is when you become a patron of an eco-tour style activity, you are contributing to the greater good of the local environment and economy.

Your money supports employment for those who value the protection of their countries’ limited natural resources. Your spending choices make a clear statement about what you feel is valuable. Instead of fattening the wallet of the latest international corporation taking up space, you can directly help the local people and economy thus, making the world a better place.

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(3) Lemon Shark swims with divers (4) Catamaran sailing in Grenada (5) Badlands National Park, South Dakota (6) Deep Obsession Group (7) Friendly Goliath Grouper (8) Coeur d’Alene National Forest

GLOBAL VIEW Palawan & FLORIDA

El Nido, Palawan, Philippines: Ape Tours Eco-Tours

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Price: PhP1,300 – PhP1,800 (around US$26 – US$35) What’s On: Ocean and island explorations to some of the most beautiful places on earth. The tours include meals, drinks, and edited pictures of your day. Groups or solo travelers will have a great time because of inclusive environment and bonds fostered with fellow tourists.

Getting there: From Manila, a number of airlines have daily flights going to Puerto Princesa. Flying time is 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Staying there: There are many hotels where you can just walk-in, but it is wise to make a reservation. Airbnb units are also available.

Contact: Ape Tours: Palawan, Philippines www.apetourspalawan.com info@apetourspalawan.com

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Show me the money – non scientifically of course…

A study done in 2016 found that sharkrelated tourism brought US$221 million to Florida alone. That is 200 times more than the shark fin export for the entire United States. But I promised non-scientifically, so, the common sense version is this: When an economy makes money from people killing sharks or other animals, they don’t get to make that money again. When an economy makes money from people seeing sharks or other animals, they make money for as long as those animals exist. In this way, the animals are left unharmed, and the local economy thrives. It’s just that simple.

Photos for Facebook, tours for your budget Guided night market treks, exploring beaches with locals, and other eco-tours are not your typical tourist adventures (although they’re increasing in popularity).

Most of these excursions are led by highly experienced local-based companies, with many years of invaluable knowledge. And

with a growing number of people claiming to have been bitten by wanderlust, the variety of eco-tours has grown with the demand. Many places have the ability to customize a trip, specific to your preferences. Often, all you must do is ask.

Apart from benefitting local economies, because they are often so unique, there will be no one else with pictures like yours. And for a glorious moment in time, you will likely be the most popular person in your social media circles – a fun exercise, every once in a while.

Get out there and make it happen Sure, breaking out of the comfort zone may be an intimidating prospect at first, but the only way to enjoy the rich experiences is by making the leap. Keep in mind that these eco-style tours are available in almost any country. Don’t settle for a run of the mill, worn out and crowded resort experience, which may not have the planet’s best interest in mind. This is your holiday time!

Make the most of it, get excited, try something new, and go take an eco-tour.

Lake Park, Florida, United States: Deep Obsession Dive Charters Price: US$85 – 110 What’s On: scuba diving, or snorkeling with sharks. The trip is led by extremely knowledgeable and skilled dive masters.

The tour operators are friendly and devoted to making sure everyone has an incredible experience.

Getting there: Fly to West Palm Beach, or Miami International Airport. Take an Uber, or get a rental car to their location.

Staying there: There is a wealth of hotel options, and Airbnb units are also abundant.

Contact: Deep Obsession: Lake Park, FL 33403 USA www.deepobsessioncharters.com dive@deepobsessioncharters.com +1 561 360 4574

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Blazing the

Northern Samar Trail Expat combed through all 24 municipalities of the province to be able to give to the heads up on where to go, what to see and do, and how to best explore, experience, and enjoy nature like it was designed to be.

Getting there

While there are no regular trips from Manila and Cebu going to Catarman, there are passenger vessels bound for Calbayog (M-W-F from Cebu, and T-TH-S going back), Tacloban , and Ormoc.

There are multiple daily trips from Manila (Cubao and Pasay bus terminals) going to Catarman via Matnog-Allen roll on, roll off vessels

PAL Express flies four times weekly (M-W-FSu) from Clark to Catarman, and vice-versa.

Alternatively, there are thrice-weekly PAL Express flights (Tu-Th-Sa) from Clark to Calbayog (one hour by land from Catarman).

There are point-to-point buses are available from NAIA 3 going to Clark from 4 a.m. to 12:30 a.m., and from Clark to NAIA 3 from 11 p.m. to 10 p.m. For more information on P2P bus schedules, contact (02) 332-8075, (02) 421-1425, (0998) 5827842, or visit http://bit.ly/2Ad7mI7.

To get started with your Northern Samar adventure, and for travel tips, contact the Northern Samar Provincial Tourism Office

+63 55 500 9798 search for Northern Samar Tourism, and Accommodations in Northern Samar, or visit www.northernsamar.gov.ph

For more information on flight schedules, visit www.philippineairlines.com or find them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter @flypal

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Biri

Playground of the Gods A lot has been said about Northern Samar’s most iconic destinations – the Biri rock formations, and the surreal panorama that surrounds. First timers have inundated it with superlatives, artists have claimed to have had jolts of creative inspiration, some have described it as the abode of the gods, and plenty more have found its edge of the world beauty to be ineffable.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio

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Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a jeepney (PhP40) or commuter van going to Allen, then ask to get off at Lavezares.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the (normally) twice-daily regular trip to Biri, that would only cost you PhP50.

Otherwise, you can arrange for a special trip (between PhP1,200PhP1,800, depending on your bargaining skills).

The boat ride takes around 45 minutes.

Tour guides are mandatory for everyone visiting the rock formations. From the Biri port, hire a habal-habal (motorbike that can seat three passengers) – the drivers double as guides (PhP300 for the guide fee, and PhP195 for the habal-habal [good for the entire day]).

Depending on your state of mind, you could find it to be any of those things. You could also find that it could be all of those, at the same time.

Nature’s elaborate work of art that is the Biri rock formations is said to be the result of tectonic plate movements that brought about continental shelf deposits – a process believed to be millions of years in the making, culminating in a topography that casts over an unmistakable majestic spell to visitors bearing witness to the unique lay of the land.

Beauty that persists I found myself back in this majestic part of the quiet island town some four years after my first encounter with it. On the boat ride to Biri, as the sky exploded pre-sunrise into a dramatic palette of purple and gold, I half expected to no longer be taken aback by the intricacies of the landscape. I was, pleasantly, proved wrong.

The natural spectacle of Biri Island’s rugged landscape, the stunning promontories that open to the turbulent azure where the Pacific Ocean and the San Bernardino Strait meet, and the overall surrealism of the purview that surrounds the parcel where the rock formations are found, justified all the superlatives inundated upon it.

I walked from one rock formation, to the next, and then to the one after that – breathing in the scenery, while wondering if I would discover a spot that I fancied most. As I maneuvered my way around

(1) Should you be at the Lavezares port at dawn, you’ll be treated to a spectacle of the sky and the sea transmogrifying into a canvass of purple and gold.

(2) The oft turbulent waters off the edge of the rock formations lend a glimpse into how the power of nature shaped this scene.

(3) Stunning from every angle – it’s no surprise the Biri rock formations have given plenty of inspiration to artists that have wandered into this surreal setting.

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and through the rocks and shallow pools, I found that each vantage astonished equally—that is until I found myself at the edge of the natural pool beside Bel-at (one of the major formations). Aqua marine and inviting, the clear waters of the natural pool make for one of the most soothing dips you can have – especially after spending some time under the Biri sun.

A parcel of home During that brief visit, we would learn that beyond the inescapable allure of the rock formations, Biri has in its holster a few other draws – surf spots featuring empty lineups, quietly gaining recognition from the Philippine surfing community; while dive spots around the island are available to complement adventure palates.

The Biri rocks have been called a playground of the gods – but to the island’s inhabitants, it is but a part of home. Biri has also long been considered an iconic Northern Samar gem – but as you’ll find going around the province – it is but one among many.

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9 (4 - 5) This gorgeous tidal pool beside Bel-at is this writer’s favorite spot – and is enough to entice me to keep coming back to Biri.

(6 ) This boardwalk serves as a portal to what feels like another world.

(7 - 8) These shellfish (sikad-sikad, sahang, and payapaya) are part of the

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myriad of seafood abundant in Biri.

(9) Apart from its imposing magnificence, the intricate details of the formations are equally amazing.

(10 - 11) To fisher folk like these two, the surrealism of the Biri Rocks is but a part of home.

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SUGGESTED itinerary After spending half the day in the tranquility of Lalaguna Ecopark, head to Biri and enjoy the unparalleled sunset at one of the island’s stunning rock formations.

Rise early and witness the sun paint the hues over the Biri rock formations.

Explore the unique landscape, and have a refreshing swim at the natural pool beside Bel-at.

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The Biri rocks have been called a playground of the gods – but to the island’s inhabitants, it is but a part of home.

Biri has also long been considered an iconic Northern Samar gem – but as you’ll find going around the province – it is but one among many.

After lunch, head back to Catarman to either cap the day relaxing at its White Beach, or experiencing the nightlife at one of the provincial capital’s bars.

EXPAT TIPS

The boats traversing the Lavezares-Biri route are scheduled to leave the respective ports at 7 a.m. and 1 p.m. But, the boats only leave when at least 14 passengers are onboard. If you’re traveling with a group, it’s best to pre-arrange your visit to Biri (which would include return boat trips, and access to friendly guides).

You’d want to bring reef footwear with you, as the walk (which could be in knee-deep waters depending on the tide) to the formations is peppered with jagged rocks.

It’s best to schedule your visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon (as the sun is a bit more forgiving, and the tide allows for an easier walk going to the rocks).

Some guides allow for a tour of the rock formations at night, which provide an entirely different feel to the otherworldly setting than you would have with everything in full view.

Electricity on the island is only available from 12 p.m. to 12 a.m., so bring ample power banks for your devices, and keep that in consideration when opting for air-conditioned accommodations.

Lawud Park Restaurant is the closest establishment to the rock formations. You can enjoy native seafood fare post-tour, or stay the night at their tent grounds (PhP200/tent).

Depending on the season, surfing is another adventure to be enjoyed in Biri (contact Elton Jhon at 0905-489-5975 to sample the island’s swells).

To get started with your Biri adventure, contact Island Divers at (0917) 556-1563, Deodito Tejero at (0936) 781-7635, or Gerald at (0975) 775-6030.

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Lavezares Tranquil Introspection

It’ll never be easy for the plainer, quieter sister to match up to the popular bombshell sibling, but in the case of the municipality of Lavezares, it does not yearn to equal the iconic destination that is Biri – instead, it serves to complement the stunning visuals, and adventures to be had in the neighboring island as a premier eco-tourism destination.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio Additional photos courtesy of Jun Adriatico

Bay Placid – Lalaguna Bay is the epitome of tranquil, an utterly peaceful setting conducive for some much needed introspection

Set amidst a lush mangrove forest that spans 300 hectares, Lalaguna Bay Eco-Park’s calm and clear waters that teem with marine life, offer a serene setting perfect for kayaking and introspection.

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Often mistaken as a mere jump-off point to Biri, the municipality of Lavezares cradles understated touristic destinations that, while are easy to overlook – particularly when drowned by the excitement of soaking in the iconic panoramas provided by the Biri Rock Formations – serve as integral elements to the raw allure of Northern Samar.

Getting there From Catarman, the jeepney ride costs PhP40 going to Lavezares.

Nestled between the islands of San Juan and Maravilla, the Lalaguna Bay Eco-Park offers a perfect complement to the popular neighboring island, with a welcome placidity that’s as soothing as it is inviting.

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Land travel from Catarman to Lavezares is around 45 minutes.

Set amidst a lush mangrove forest that spans 300 hectares, Lalaguna Bay Eco-Park’s calm and clear waters that teem with marine life, offer a serene setting perfect for kayaking and introspection.

To get started on your Lavezares trip, and for more information on what to enjoy in the municipality, contact

Overlooking the bay, Kaluy-ahan Mountain, for its part, affords trekking enthusiasts a gorgeous view of the tranquility below. And similar to the waters of Lalaguna Bay and its bounty of residing species, the mountain ecosystem is rich, as it is home to wild monkeys, fruit bats, and a few endangered bird species. The result is a harmonious, and serene interplay of land and marine ecosystems that personifies the raw natural allure of Northern Samar.

Rodel (0928) 297-2948 Janice (0947) 562-4066 or Venus Adriatico (0917) 142-6399

4 (2) Kayaking around the bay’s mangrove forest, it’s easy to lose the concept of time… and worldly problems (3) It wouldn’t be uncommon to find local kids paddling around the bay, enjoying it themselves (4) 4 Lalaguna Bay’s natural view deck – the rich ecosystem that is Kaluy-ahan Mountain (5) Apart from the allure of Lalaguna Bay, Lavezares has beaches perfect for having downright fun times (6) Local tourists near the peak of Kaluy-ahan Mountain 5

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SUGGESTED itinerary Spend the mid-morning lazing about Marsons Beach (or any of the other beaches in town for that matter).

After enjoying a feast beachside, you can opt to burn off the calories by snorkeling or diving.

To mix serenity and surrealism with adventure, head over to Lalaguna Ecopark.

The trip allows you to combine kayaking, swimming, and even trekking—all with the backdrop of the calm waters of Lalaguna Bay and its lush green environs.

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Head to Biri to bask in the otherworldly charm of its stunning rock formations as the sun sets. Stay the night, and witness one of the most unique sunrises you’ll ever see back at the rock formations the next morning.

Should you wish for a change of pace, you can cross back to Lavezares, and head to Cataraman to sample the offerings of its restaurants, and experience the local nightlife at their collection of bars.

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EXPAT TIPS

Marsons Beach in Barangay Bani is a coral beach that offers a quiet haven ideal for picnics, snorkeling and diving. It is easily accessible via a 10-15 minute boat ride (PhP25) from Barangay Barobaybay.

Considered by locals as an ideal weekend getaway, the fishing village that is Bankawan Island is said to be the best place to dive and snorkel in Lavezares.

Should you wish prefer extended beach bumming, there are beach resorts in Barangays Urdaneta and Barobaybay.

For more information, and to get started on your Lavezares adventure, contact its Municipal Tourism Officer, Venus Adriatico, at (0917) 142-6399.

(7) From above, Lavezares is just as serene (8) Go around the mangrove forest long enough, and you’re bound to encounter some of its resident species (9) Locally called, Torak, it’s one of the bird species calling the greens around Lalaguna Bay home

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Allen

An Assortment of Wonders In the case of the town of Allen, a little bit of everything amounts to a whole lot of something Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Mention Allen and the word “port” would eventually follow suit. The Visayas’ link to Luzon, it’s predominantly known for connecting Samar Island to the Bicol Peninsula.

True enough, Allen is home to BALWHARTECO or the Balicuatro Wharfage and Terminal Corporation – an important player in inter-island transport. Yet despite playing host to one of the country’s major ports, Allen is so much more than just your typical port town.

Getting there Allen is just an hour away from Catarman.

In the latter’s public market/terminal, there are jeepneys and commuter vans that go straight to this town.

From Matnog, Sorsogon in Bicol, the Allen Port is roughly an hour away by roll-on-roll-off vessels.

The Allen Port (BALWHARTECO) is also a stage for dramatic seaside sunsets

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Allen boasts an abundance of this prized nut, even claiming to provide a portion of nearby Sorsogon’s supply.

These nuts are then processed into different forms like mulido (mashed and mixed with coconut milk) and crispies (fried in brown sugar) – a favorite take-homes for visitors of the town.

One for the palate Go around the Allen Port and you’ll find vendors peddling a variety of native delicacies. The most prevalent? Pili products.

Allen boasts an abundance of this prized nut, even claiming to provide a portion of nearby Sorsogon’s supply. These nuts are then processed into different forms like mulido (mashed and mixed with coconut milk) and crispies (fried in brown sugar) – a favorite take-homes for visitors of the town.

One for nostalgia In the poblacion, a historical landmark stands inside the grounds of Allen Central Elementary School. Known as the Gabaldon Ruins, the structure was once a schoolhouse designed by American architect William E. Parsons. Surrounded by massive century-old hardwoods, the ruins make for a dramatic background, and as such, has become a popular venue for photo shoots.

Moreover, the hill on which the ruins are located used to be a lookout station for American soldiers. Remnants of ammunitions can be found around the area.

One for the thrill Thirty minutes from the town proper is the village of Cabacungan. Here lies Imaga Beach. Lined with powdery sands and blue, blue waters, this patch of seaside paradise is very popular among locals.

It’s most famous for its distinct cluster of rocks, formed thusly to create a natural pool perfect for cannonballs and wading.

The pool also affords a sweeping view of the ocean, complete with a backdrop of distant peaks.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Spend the day by the sea by heading to Imaga Beach. Swim in its clear, cool waters then trek up the cluster of rocks where a natural pool is located.

In the afternoon, watch the sunset at the BALWHARTECO and crash in at the Pahayahayan Hotel & Restaurant.

DAY 2 Go on a tour of the town and check out the Gabaldon Ruins. Snap some photos here as these make for a great background.

Have lunch at Kulod Farm and try their sumptuous spareribs. Proceed to the next town of Victoria and get some taro chips before checking out the Bangon Rapids or the “Overflow” in San Ramon.

A fitting finale Come dusk, the Allen Port becomes a stage for a natural spectacle. Sunset here is almost always picturesque. Even when it’s cloudy, the soft light, mirrored by the sea, casts a romantic glow over the harsh outlines of the docked ships. It’s a nice way to end a day of exploring.

Allen is and will always be a port town, but it’s also a place of beautiful seascapes. A land where pili’s a-plenty; where even ruins are photogenic. Its character is made of variety, and, it turns out, it wears it incredibly well.

Then head back to the poblacion and hang around by the Victoria Bridge and catch the sunset. You may spend the night at the Spice of Life beach resort in the village of Buenos Aires.

DAY 3 For some outdoor thrill, head to San Isidro and chase waterfalls. Hike up Canpungkol Falls.

Trek to Busay Falls then cool down in Veriato Falls. You can then head back to Kulod Farm in Allen for dinner. A live band performs come evening!

EXPAT TIPS

Late November to early December is the best time to visit Allen as it’s when the Nikit Festival is held. This celebration is in honor of the pili industry and culminates into the town’s founding anniversary.

For the best deals on pili products, contact Jen at (0935) 828-6219.

For a taste of Allen’s nightlife, head over to Kulod Farm Resto Bar. If you plan on having far too much fun, they also offer accommodations.

(Clockwise) The Gabaldon Ruins is located inside the Allen Central Elementary School; Allen is also proud of its pili products. Sample its many variations from the vendors that crowd the Allen Port; Some of Allen’s different pili products; BALWHARTECO serves as one of Luzon’s main gates to the Visayas; Pahayahayan Hotel is strategically located within the BALWHARTECO complex

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San Vicente Pure Hues

The farthest and smallest, San Vicente allows one to converse with nature Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba and Erish Dominic Ventura

Once upon a time, huge chunks of these scarlet corals could be found all over the beach. But due to the turbulent sea and increase in foot traffic, these have been crushed, and could only be seen if one scoops a generous amount of sand and observes the grains that compose it – small red particles could be found all over.

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Zamboanga’s pink beach may be the destination that made the headlines recently; but the Philippines, being an archipelago, peppered with tropical gems, houses many other stunning uniquelycolored beaches, which until today, remain under the mainstream tourism radar.

Among these is San Vicente’s very own Pink Beach, located in Sila Island.

A challenge to get to due to its distance (one frequently doubled by the oft-hostile waves), San Vicente has a good grip on its unsoiled state, making it the perfect destination for travelers welcoming a break from urban comforts.

Aquatic center So, what can one do in Northern Samar’s farthest municipality? The most obvious activity is island-hopping, as San Vicente is made up of a collection of islands that seem to be in the process of coming together for a huddle. Usually the first to be stepped onto after what seems like an endless boat ride from the mainland, is Tarnate, which offers a clear picture of the municipality’s way of life.

Populated by small boats for fishing and bringing small groups of tourists around, Tarnate is quick to remind visitors that everything in San Vicente revolves

Getting there

around its immaculate waters. Fishing, of course, is their main source of livelihood; but every now and then, locals earn extra money when outsiders come for a visit.

Now, if the fish and tourist count is slow, residents of San Vicente still don’t take a break from the waters. The Samar Sea acts as a platform for family bonding for the adults, and as a playground and stage for the children. Just take a minute to observe the locals found swimming among the boats.

The young ones are usually showing off some sort of aquatic performance art, such as singing while doing a backhand stroke or transmogrifying into an aquatic acrobat.

From the Catarman transport terminal, get a ride heading to San Isidro (approximately 80 kilometers), where boats can take you to San Vicente.

The boat ride from San Isidro to San Vicente usually takes 2 hours.

Note that it’s best if you contact the boatman beforehand, so you have control of your time and so that they know the amount of fuel to bring.

Sunset pink Beyond the island of Tarnate is where you’ll find Sila, which really tries its best to project the uniqueness of its beach’s sands, lining up its coastline with pink flags.

And, while the pink hue is no lie, there are specific hours within the day when it’s more pronounced. According to the caretaker of the island, it’s usually close to sunset, because that’s when the blush of the sky is reflected on the sand, which is already sprinkled with pulverized scarlet corals.

Once upon a time, huge chunks of these scarlet corals could be found all over the beach. But due to the turbulent sea and increase in foot traffic, these have been crushed, and could only be seen if one scoops a generous amount of sand and observes the grains that compose it – small red particles could be found all over.

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SUGGESTED itinerary Hop around the island of Maragat, Panganuron, Mahaba and Sangputan before experiencing the sunset in Pink Beach, Sila Island.

Pack your own picnic basket as dining places/ food vendors are hard to find in these areas. Not to mention, the boat rides involved are long.

Enjoy the fresh breeze and happenings on the surface of the sea as you hop from one island to another.

The language of color Though the pink beach in Sila Island naturally gets most of the attention, San Vicente likewise is home to other beaches of the white-yellow sanded ilk. But let’s not discard the waters and rock islands that stand on the way of its beach offerings. Hardly ever calm, the waves exhibit its own spectacle, beginning with the range of blues it displays. If you’ve been observing your surroundings, instead of trying to get cell signal (trust me, there’s none!), you’d realize that the waters are actually communicating with you using the language of color.

Visit Destacado the busiest island and where the municipal hall is located.

Try to converse with the locals. You’ll realize that some speak Cebuano due to the earliest settlers in San Vicente.

Sapphire and cobalt mean that you have a long way to go before seeing an interesting strip of land.

What appears to be a gray oily film means that a mass of trash is nearby. And, teal and mint hues mean that you’re approaching a residential area or an interesting parcel of rock island.

Then, there are the creatures of the sea, namely dolphins and the toray (flying fish), which meet only those who are willing to go through more seemingly uneventful minutes on a boat to see the rest of San Vicente.

EXPAT TIPS

You can visit the islands of San Vicente and the municipality of Capul in one day by renting a boat. Rate is PhP 7,000 to PhP 9,000, depending on the size of your boat.

Bring food, swimming gear and other sports equipment to keep you entertained in the different beaches you’ll visit. If you’re not comfortable with the sound of life vests being made out of orange cloth and blocks of Styrofoam, bring your own! Waters become more turbulent in the late afternoon, so see to it that you’re out of the boat by then.

Help San Vicente maintain the state of its beaches. Clean as you go and leave nothing but footprints. During your boat ride to the municipality, chances are the men handling the boat stop in the middle of the waters to collect the trash they see.

For more information and to get started on your San Vicente adventure, contact Franco Francisco at 0930-601- 3516.

While the Pink Beach is San Vicente’s top attraction (p.50), visitors are already captivated by the journey heading there (p.51). Involving strong waves, sea-centered folk and several islands, this municipality gives a glimpse of nature in its purest form.

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capul

Marked by History Despite having been frequented by pirates and invaders for centuries, Capul boasts of unharmed natural views, and iconic manmade structures Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba and Erish Dominic Ventura

No other place in Northern Samar talks of history louder than the island Capul. Just have a look at its name: the syllables come from the word Acapulco, an old trading post which served as the Philippines’ connection to Mexico and the Kingdom of Spain. It follows then that Capul, which is located along the San Bernardino Strait and between the province of Northern Samar and the island of Luzon, was used as a layover by galleons that took the Acapulco-Manila route.

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But this island-municipality’s historical significance does not end in it’s trade roots. Capul, like many islands in Samar, was targeted by religious groups in the 17th century. In the early 1600s, a church dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola made up of wood and a nipa was already built here. The structure, however, went through a period of cyclical destruction and rebuilding due to Moro pirates raids.

This only ceased when Fr. Mariano Valero took over the church construction and used stronger materials. What came out of this was a stone fortress church, which doubled as place of refuge from invaders. The priest-architect’s work, which was declared as a national historical site in 2011, still stands today.

Adding to the church and fortress left by the Jesuits during the Spanish colonization are marks left by the succeeding invaders.

Taking advantage of the island’s strategic location, American engineers and army corps built the Faro de Isla Capul at the northern tip of the island, to which the Japanese added gun emplacements during World War II. At present, the lighthouse is undergoing restoration; nevertheless, tourists keep flocking to the area.

As if following tradition, people find themselves drawn to Capul. But instead of heading to the island for trade, plunder or invasion, they’re here for the excellent views of the shores beyond – sights that can be attained on a meadow near the lighthouse, which directly faces the San Bernardino Strait. This meadow, which features an iconic Talisay tree that’s covered with carvings, is often used as a picnic spot.

Complementing this superb view of the azure are equally unblemished offerings from Mother Earth: the Abak beach, the Timon-Timon and its kin rock formations, the Moro Poro islet, and the hectares and hectares of coconut fields that surround the island’s very neat network of narrow roads.

Such features make it hard to believe that Capul was frequented by invaders!

To travel around the island, ride the habalhabal, a motorcycle that can transport up to six passengers. And when you do, see to it that you initiate a conversation with the Capuleño driving. He will most likely know how to speak the nearly extinct dialect, Inabaknon, which has been island’s language since its first settlers from Java arrived in the 13th century.

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SUGGESTED itinerary Sail around the island of Capul to view the TimonTimon and other rock formations it keeps.

Riding a habal-habal, discover the simple life of the Capuleños as you cruise through their polished roads.

Spend time in the white sand beach of Abak.

Getting there

Visit the northern tip of the island, where the Capul lighthouse stands and where you’ll find a great view of the “shores beyond.”

From the Catarman transport terminal, get a ride heading to Allen (approximately 80 kilometers), where boats can take you to Capul.

The boat ride from Allen to Capul usually takes 1 hour.

Converse with the friendly locals and ask them to teach you some Inabaknon words.

Travel time from Catarman to the Allen Port is 1 hour, and 1.5 hours from Calbayog.

Boat schedules from Allen to Capul is 12 noon (once daily), while Capul to Allen is at 7 a.m. (once daily).

Tourists from the M/S Caledonian Sky International Cruise Ship who were brought by Zergham Expedition for a shore excursion. The cruise ship began visiting Capul in 2015.

EXPAT TIPS

The Capul lighthouse is currently under restoration; thus, it may be best to visit this island-municipality after its target date of completion, which is 25 April 2018.

Bring your own picnic basket and spend an afternoon overlooking the San Bernardino Strait, as you explore the traces of weaponry left by the Japanese near the lighthouse. The northern tip of the island can be accessed through the habal-habal.

If you plan to spend the night in Capul, you can check-in at the Capul Island Beach Resort. See to it that you do all your road travels before the dark for the streetlights are sparse.

If you’re looking for a place to stay the night in, look for Auntie Fely’s Homestay.

To get started on your Capul adventure, contact Pamie Bayabay at (0956) 658-2233, or Island Divers at (0917) 556-1563.

Though marketed as a place for history buffs, Capul, as seen in these photos, has several natural and man-made features that any traveller can appreciate, including its rare Ibaknon language

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San Antonio

Sun, Sea, and Great Company Pristine beaches, rich local fanfare, and people so warm you’d never want to leave – this sums up the town of San Antonio Words and photos by Celine Reyes

“A tropical island cliché,” one writer says of the island town. Fringed with palm trees and lined with white-sand shores, one would have to agree that San Antonio does look like a hackneyed expression. Everything you’d expect to find in an island town, you’d find here.

A town blessed with beautiful shorelines and crystal blue waters, it’s no surprise then that there is a beach resort in its every corner.

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Tropical paradise One of the many resorts here is Haven of Fun. A popular venue for conventions and group outings, the place has a front seat to San Antonio’s famed crystal clear waters.

There’s also EWP Island Beach Resort in the village of San Nicolas. This family-ran establishment boasts a property that’s just a few steps away from a shore of powdery sands and cool, blue-green waters. From here, the silhouette of Capul Island can be glimpsed. There’s also a covey of rocks on one side of the beach that makes the already photogenic seascape even more interesting.

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(1) Haven of fun – another one of the beach resorts in San Antonio (2) On one side of San Antonio, the seascape includes a silhouette of the island of Capul (3) Lagbangan Lake has been turned into an eco-park where one can take a boat ride across its thriving mangrove forest

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Getting there

(4) EWP’s “Family Room” that can accommodate up to six persons (5) EWP’s Veranda Tea made from a combination of dried herbs found on the island

From the Catarman transport terminal, take a commuter van or jeepney to San Isidro.

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Alight at the town’s port, where there are passenger boats bound for San Antonio. You can either pay PhP40 per person and wait for other passengers or charter the entire boat for PhP400 one way.

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EWP is also popular for its Veranda Tea – a homemade concoction of dried herbs grown and found in the area. Lemon grass, oregano, and malunggay are brewed and served as welcome drinks to guests.

Interestingly, the resort is better known for this tea than its beach and facilities.

The beach is not the only body of water in San Antonio. For an island that can be explored in a single day, it’s quite amazing that there’s an entire lake that runs through it. Lagbangan Lake, where mangroves and saltwater tilapia thrive, has been converted into an eco-park where activities like boating and fishing can be done.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Have your pick at the many beach resorts in the island. Your choice doesn’t really matter as all of them leads to white-sand shores and refreshing waters. Don’t forget to sample the town’s duo of delicacy: kagang and palawan.

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San Antonio is also famous for a different kind of crustacean – kagang or land crab.

Found in fields, these creatures are hunted using a bamboo trap called padlong.

A varied gastronomy Being surrounded by the ocean, marine products are expectedly abundant in San Antonio. A variety of seafood, most notably lato or sea grapes, is common here; almost always freshly caught from the sea.

San Antonio is also famous for a different kind of crustacean – kagang or land crab. Found in fields, these creatures are hunted using a bamboo trap called padlong. These contraptions are placed around marshes just before sunset, and are hauled at the first light of dawn. Kagang, a native delicacy, is often served with ginataang palawan (swamp taro braised in coconut milk).

The island way More than its topography and seafood bounty, what makes San Antonio the proverbial island town are its people. Sure, Filipinos are by nature warm and welcoming, but it’s slightly different here. As soon as you step onto its shores, you will be met with bright smiles. The people here are easy-going.

Keen to make you laugh. In no time, you’ll feel like you’ve been here all your life; that you are among family.

That sounds like another cliché.

Well, in the case of San Antonio, one simply cannot help it. It’s possible that this is where phrases like “laidback atmosphere” and “paradise on earth” are born. There’s a soul to this place, an essence that just compels one to resort to trite descriptions – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. A place like San Antonio has no need for big words.

“Just get the details out of the way,” it seems to say. “And then take it all in.”

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Visit Lagbangan Eco Park and go on a boat ride across its mangrove forest.

You can also try your hand at fishing there. If you’re looking for a different water fun, head back to mainland San Isidro and check out Busay Falls and Veriato Falls. You may then spend the night in Victoria’s Spice of Life beach where there are several lodging houses that offer rooms for rent.

DAY 3 Explore the Spice of Life Beach before going to Allen for lunch in Kulod Farm – they make the best spareribs in Northern Samar. Then check out the Gabaldon Ruins in the Poblacion before proceeding to BALWHARTECO. Here, you can hoard on pili products while catching the sunset.

EXPAT TIPS

San Antonio celebrates the Manoglaya Festival every June. Take part in the festivities and witness the different interpretations of the Manoglaya Dance – a nod to the town’s traditional way of fishing.

(top) Kagang and palawan – San Antonio’s duo of gastronomic offerings (below) A cluster of limestone decorate one side of EWP Resort

Victoria Veer into Victoria

Stop by Victoria and discover its personal brand of charms Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a van en route to Allen.

Victoria’s location is the quintessential “double-edged sword.”

Sandwiched between Allen, and San Isidro, the town dilly-dallies from being strategically located to being just a mere “gangplank.”

Its proximity to these pair of arguably better known municipalities has some veritable advantages, but it’s also the reason why the town suffers from being overlooked. Most visitors tend to speed past Victoria – sometimes, foregoing it altogether.

In Allen, get a tricycle going to Victoria.

Travel time is about an hour.

Alternatively, you may ride a van bound for San Isidro and get off at Victoria.

A bridge divides the Calowehawan River and the Bangon Rapids

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Another tributary is the Bangon Rapids in Barangay San Ramon.

This stream connects to the Calowehawan River. Locals refer to it as the “Overflow” because of the rushing currents that grow more vicious when it rains.

More than sand and sea Victoria has a popular beach resort called Spice of Life, but, the thing is, so does most of Northern Samar. With a little patience, however, you’ll soon find out that in the nooks and crannies of this town flow a number of distinct waterways and cascades.

A total of six falls in Victoria has been identified. One is called Bangon Falls, which can be accessed via boat ride from the town’s port. It can also be glimpsed from the Mawo Bridge (also called Victoria Bridge) which, it should be noted, also affords a stunning view of the sunset.

Another tributary is the Bangon Rapids in Barangay San Ramon. This stream connects to the Calowehawan River.

Locals refer to it as the “Overflow” because of the rushing

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Victoria also boasts quality handicrafts and processed snacks. Local women from the village of Luisita produce intricate hand-woven bags made from abaca.

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Chill at the Spice of Life beach and spend the whole day getting a tan. If you come early, you may chance upon local fishermen hauling in the day’s catch. You can get a kilo of skipjack tuna for just PhP100! You can also spend the night here since there are several resorts and lodging houses in the vicinity.

DAY 2 Drop by the municipal hall and check out the handicrafts made by the Luisita Women’s Organization. If you’re looking to purchase some taro chips better come in early as these sell out quick.

Then, go see the “Overflow” in San Ramon before heading to Kulod Farm in Allen for lunch. If you’re looking for some seafood, proceed to San Jose and go straight to the PAKIBA breeding facility for the best deals on mud crabs and milkfish.

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currents that grow more vicious when it rains. Since it’s necessary to cross the Overflow to get around town, a cemented path – not quite a bridge, not quite a road – was constructed in 2007. Aside from being a thoroughfare, this watercourse also plays a vital role in the surrounding communities, serving as both a place to bathe, and to wash clothes.

Homegrown industry Aside from these waterways, Victoria also boasts quality handicrafts and processed snacks. Local women from the village of Luisita produce intricate handwoven bags made from abaca. These same women also maintain a gabi (taro) plantation, the harvest from which are made into taro chips – a product so addictive, it sells out as soon as it hits the shelves.

A little faith Victoria’s location is indeed a double-edged sword, but it already has the basic tools to use it to its advantage.

For the visitor’s part, do yourself a solid and give Victoria a chance. With a little patience and openmindedness, you will soon come to know that this town, transitory as it may seem, warrants more than just a flitting look.

Head to nearby Allen, and visit the island municipality of San Antonio and enjoy its many beach offerings.

Should you have the time, you can also go further to other island municipalities like Capul and San Vicente.

EXPAT TIPS

Along the length of the Spice of Life beach in the village of Buenos Aires are several resorts that offer rooms and cottages. Crash here for the night before heading out to your next destination.

(clockwise) Aside from being a bathing ground and a place to do laundry_ Calowehawan River also is a fishing site for locals; A portion of the placid Calowehawan River; Bags and other handicrafts made from abaca fiber are some of Victoria’s products

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San Isidro Counting Cascades

All places have a way of reeling people in. For the town of San Isidro, its marvelous watercourses might just be the hook it needs to bring in the proverbial catch.

Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Through the car window, I watched how seamlessly the way transformed. The border of tall hardwoods that morphed sunlight into fractals across the smooth paved road progressed into a sheet of sparkling baby blue, redolent of iodine. We were in the outskirts of Northern Samar now, in the town of San Isidro, almost to the neighboring province of Samar, and the roadside scenery was bright with possibilities.

Gateway to paradise Trace San Isidro on a map and you’ll find it entrenched in the province’s southwestern section, right on the boundary to the city of Calbayog. Its inland borders are defined by the municipalities of Victoria and Bobon, while the Samar Sea lines its west front.

A coastal town through and through, San Isidro functions as a portal to some of Northern Samar’s other tourist destinations. From its shores, boats ply the route to San Vicente’s pink beach, as well as to the island of Capul.

Cave, fish, coconut San Isidro’s shores are also dotted with a number of caves. All but one remains unexplored. Sohoton Cave – the only cavern to know modern presence, is often submerged underwater so very few have seen its insides, but those who had, claim it’s teeming with crystalline rock formations.

Being surrounded by the sea also means that San Isidro gets to make good use of its bounties. And it definitely does.

Along the thoroughfares of the villages of Veriato and Caglanipao, there is an assembly of tiny, makeshift huts. These stalls sell varieties of dried fish, and bottles of fermented shrimp and fingerlings. For only PhP50, one can take home a 500-millimeter bottle of ginamos – a local dipping sauce made from fermented anchovies.

Hauls from the sea are not the only sources of livelihood of San Isidro’s residents. The town’s mostly mountainous terrain form plenty of plateaus, most of which are already being used for agriculture, particularly coconutfarming. Some of the harvest is turned into buko pie, which according to locals, could rival that of Tagaytay’s.

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The elegant stream of Busay Falls

Wondrous waterways Yet there is more to San Isidro’s varied topography than just fertile lands. Aside from the plains, the mountain ranges and lush forest covers, the town’s contour is made even more fascinating by the crosshatch of ten rivers and creeks that spawn a staggering collection of magnificent waterfalls.

The day we visited was a good day to chase waterfalls, and upon learning that two were accessible by road, we made haste to see them.

As we made our way to Falls Number One, we passed through roads-in-construction.

The scent of coconut oil pierced the metal shell of our vehicle, filling my head with images of a spa. I tried to concentrate by peering into the windshield and saw the road tilting at a dangerous angle – at least from where I sat. The engine revved. The force planted my back a little deeper into the leather seat. I held my breath.

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a jeepney bound for Allen.

Alight at the Allen stop and hail a tricycle to San Isidro.

Alternatively, Grand Tours – a local line of commuter vans – has recently launched a direct route to San Isidro from Catarman and vice versa.

Travel time from Catarman is approximately 1 1/2 hours.

Moments later, the road gradually evened out. Then, by a small roadside grove, the car pulled to a stop. Here, a path was carved. Narrow and rock-strewn, and flanked with a stream on one side and a stretch of forest on the other. It was short and easy. In just maybe two – three minutes, the thin, elegant jet of water came into view.

The cascade known as Busay Falls rushed against a concave wall of layered rock, shiny from moisture. Green clumps of moss stood in contrast against the onyx of the slab; the midmorning sun providing a natural spotlight. Below the stream, a small, deep pool gathered. Kept in the shade by a band of massive boulders, its waters glinted like a sheet of dark ice. To go nearer to the falls, one has to scramble over these large rocks.

“Three-man deep,” warned our local guide when I asked if I may bathe in it.

(top) One of the stalls selling dried fish along the village of Caglanipao and Ginamos - a local dipping sauce made from fermented anchovies (mid) Veriato Falls_ thin drop of water feeds a 10-foot deep lagoon perfect for swimming (below) Canpongkol Falls murky from last night_s rain

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Start counting cascades by visiting the dynamic duo: Busay Falls, and Veriato Falls. These two are easily accessible, requiring just a quick walk from the road.

Don’t forget to grab some dried fish from the stalls along the village of Veriato – these make for great take-home items.

DAY 2 Continue chasing waterfalls by trekking to Canpungkol Falls in the village of Happy Valley. After a day in the outdoors, you may head to the nearby town of Allen and where there are accommodations.

Pahayahayan Hotel is just a few steps from the Allen port and has a front seat to a seaside sunset.

DAY 3 From Allen, head back to the San Isidro port.

Here, take a boat to San Antonio. In just under an hour, you’ll reach the island town and get to have your pick among its many white-sand beach resorts.

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Veriato Falls is also known as Bongon Falls and is the most accessible of San Jose_s waterfalls

Roadside Runnel A more wade-friendly cascade can be found in Veriato. Known interchangeably as Veriato Falls and Bongon Falls, the single stream of falling water feeds a ten-foot deep lagoon that is significantly wider than the one in Busay. Just before the basin, a patch of pebbly land serves as a picnic ground. The whole area is interspersed with hardwoods and shrubs.

cascades, reaching Falls Number Three required a bit more effort.

We paired our day trip to Busay with a foray there. It’s the most accessible of all San Isidro’s cascades, located just a few steps from the highway.

With knees scraped and big, angry welts forming on my thighs, I surveyed the curtain of falling water. I estimated it to be over a hundred feet, divided into two wide sections both overrun by a screen of gushing water. A wide tributary ran parallel to the falls, murky from last night’s rain. In the summer months, the river retreats, making it possible to approach the cascade. That day,

Third time’s the charm Adamant to see more of San Isidro’s trove of waterfalls, I came back early the next day to visit Canpongkol (also Kang Pongkol) Falls. Unlike the first two

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Located in the village of Happy Valley, the way to Canpongkol goes through steep overgrown woods. We could barely discern the trail because of the thick shrubs and bushes. With all the backtracking and water breaks, it took us about two hours to reach our destination.

Alternate between salt and fresh water, for just on the other side of the road where Veriato Falls is located is a stretch of beach.

Apart from cascades, there are two beaches renowned by San Isidro locals—one in Canauayon Island (a few hundred meters from Barangay Salvacion’s ferry terminal), and Dancalan Beach in Barangay San Juan on the mainland.

Canauayon – a private island – is surrounded by 13 hectares of coral cover, and a fish sanctuary. Over the past few years, it has become a go-to for diving enthusiasts.

however, I was only allowed to view it from a distance. That was enough. For now, at least.

Cascade capital Aside from this terrific trio, San Isidro offers two more waterfalls to visitors: Igot Falls in Barangay Palanit – the tallest at 150 feet – and Caglanipao Falls in its namesake barangay (village).

Both require a day’s worth of trekking.

It comes to a total of five, but these are just the ones that have already been mapped. Eleven – that’s how many cascades San Isidro has (that they know of so far). So when I was told that the town aims to be the Waterfalls Capital of Northern Samar, there were no questions asked. I needed no further details.

Rosario Silent Beauty

The quiet that pervades the municipality of Rosario requires visitors to take a closer look at the treasures it silently keeps – and once you do, you’ll find that the unassuming town and its residents can be quite the disarming lot.

Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba and Erish Dominic Ventura

The municipality of Rosario is characteristically silent. While walking through its paved streets and bamboo bridges, one can easily hear the scratching of hens as it searches the ground for crumbs, and the jumping of fish as it tries to see what’s beyond the surface.

Don’t be fooled by this destination’s lack of street noise though, as it is recognized to be the capital of two of Northern Samar’s treasures: mangroves and crabs.

Mangrove kingdom From the main road, attaching these tourism labels to Rosario may seem absurd – the mangrove trees are short and never appear clustered, while the crab vendors are sparse. But once you step out of your vehicle, you will quickly realize that the water-based trees multiply as you dive deeper into the municipality. As for the crabs, just look for a group of kids playing on the streets – they’re either engaging in a game of hide-and-seek with mud crabs or catching bigger ones for extra cash.

Indeed, all with most of Northern Samar’s treasures, it requires you to abandon urban comforts for you to discover its most beautiful spots. But, it is perhaps Rosario that’s strictest about the requirement. Here, you’d have to wake up early to visit its own collection of stunning rock formations.

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But if you and your companions have had enough of that in Northern Samar (plausible due to the plethora of such in the province), you’d have to ride one of their narrow boats to cruise around the mangrove kingdom they keep.

Seen on the way to the coastal barangay (village) of Ligaya, this massive mangrove forest is where you’ll witness locals’ way of life. Sunburned and wrinkled, their elderly remain hardworking; they are seen rowing small boats, oftentimes alone, as they transfer goods from one barangay to the next. And though tired from the daily grind, they offer a ready, heart-warming smile upon seeing a boat of unfamiliar faces. Further in, you realize how ingenious the people of Rosario are: they’ve built floating houses that somehow mimic the structure of mangroves.

Going back to the mangroves, don’t be distracted by their thickness or the vast area they occupy, for their true beauty lies beneath. If you’re early enough – or when the waters have very little human traffic – you’re bound to see baby sting rays and other marine life chasing each other in this submerged environment.

Beyond this labyrinth is an endless mountainous backdrop of coconut trees, which undoubtedly holds its own wonders.

To uncover more of this silent municipality’s treasure, talk to its people. Many of them are reserved, but once they’ve sensed your genuine interest, you’re bound to leave with a sack of crabs and several remarkable stories.

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SUGGESTED itinerary Held on October, Rosario’s Kinis Festival, which celebrates the municipality’s abundance of crabs, offers plenty of activities. Here, visitors get to see how much their everyday lives are centered on crabs.

Rosario residents cook it, use it for local sports and compose dances based on its movements.

The Kinis Festival also is marketplace for other products of Rosario and a time for replanting mangroves.

Getting there

Other activities you can do is tour the mangrove forest leading to Ligaya, then visit the barangay’s Binuga Cave and rock formations.

Rosario is a 45-minute drive from Catarman (approximately 25 kilometers).

EXPAT TIPS From the provincial capital’s transport terminal, you can take a van or jeep going to the municipality.

You may have read about Rosario’s famous medicinal hot spring. When Expat asked about it, the municipality tourism officer inform us that the site has been privatized. If you’d like to visit it, coordinate with the tourism office.

See to it that you always have bills smaller than PhP 1,000 and PhP 500, especially when you commute via boat to see the mangrove kingdom or buy crabs at the side of the road.

One of the reasons Rosario is known as the crab capital is most crab ponds in Visayas and Luzon get their eggs from this municipality. But, despite the availability, sample their crabs anyway. Locals claim that nothing beats home-grown crabs. Note that their crabs is often cooked in coconut milk.

Silent from shore to center, Rosario’s charm emerges when you converse and have a bite with its residents, who take pride in their municipality’s mangrove kingdom and mud crabs.

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San Jose

What the Water Gave Find out what makes San Jose the quintessential ‘island town’ Words and photos by Celine Reyes

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The water sparkled under the fresh rays of that morning. Around the length of the San Jose Port, a handful of docked fishing boats bobbed gently. From there, the waters were a calm sheet of cobalt, almost like a lake – so much so that one wouldn’t think it’s a portion of the Philippine Sea. The major body of water, in fact, rims the northern periphery of the town of San Jose. While other municipalities in the province share the same borders, the latter is blessed with a scattering of islets in lieu of a white-sand shoreline.

These landmasses then form some sort of natural corral, bringing in an abundance of aquatic produce, and serving as a tourist destination all at the same time.

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Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, there are jeepneys and commuter vans bound for San Jose.

Travel time from Catarman is around 30 minutes.

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When tourism and conservation coexist Fifteen minutes from the port and one would reach Cabaungan Grande. Along with the rest of San Jose’s waters and group of islands, this islet is part of the Biri Larosa Protected Landscape and Seascape.

Its surrounds are comprised with an evergrowing mangrove forest, encompassing a large portion of the protected area’s more than 400 hectares.

Not far from this fish sanctuary is the privately owned Tandang Island. Endowed with a cream-colored beach and shaded by lush canopies, the islet is being prepped to handle tourism.

Plenty of trees and the beach within reach On one section of Tandang, a grove of coconut trees soared and huddled to form a roof. Below, the even, slightly grassy land makes for a perfect picnic and camping ground. On the other side of the island, massive trees and wild shrubs thrive. One of the hardwoods supports a tree house along with a rope swing. Take a few steps and the sea would emerge – talk about the best of both worlds.

Tandang Island is but the first of a series of islets that San Jose offers. There’s also Pangilala Island with its stretch of soft, grayish beach, and the chalky sandbar that is Monbon. Another one, Matungko Island, also sports the same pebbly, tan sands of Tandang and the coppice of coconut trees.

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(1)Tandang Island is just fifteen minutes from the San Jose Port (2) The San Jose Port is the largest port in Northern Samar (3) Pangilala Island is devoid of structures_ making it perfect for camping (4) The hundred-year-old bell made from melted coins (5) A grove of tall coconut trees place Tandang Island in perpetual shade (6) A tree house and a swing can be found on the other side of Tandang Island (8) Docked fishing boats around San Jose Port

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This chain of islands can be reached easily via motorboat, and visiting them in one day is possible if you get an early start.

This ease in access is what prompted the local government to develop tour packages that will include island hopping, and water activities such as kayaking and snorkeling.

Cultivating the sea’s bounties In addition to island paradises, San Jose also plays host to a flourishing aquaculture industry. Because mangrove swamplands make up most of the town’s region, there’s an abundance of crustaceans and fish. The local association of producers of pasay (shrimp), kinis (crabs), and bangus (milkfish) called PAKIBA maintains facilities for fish breeding and crab fattening in the village of P. Tingzon.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Go island-hopping on the town’s numerous islands. You can spent the night at Tandang Island. Just make sure to bring enough supplies as the island’s mostly devoid of facilities. There’s a treehouse here, but that’s just about it. It’s perfect for camping!

DAY 2 Get yourself stuffed with fresh, quality seafood courtesy of the PAKIBA breeding facility. They offer the best deals on mud crabs, milkfish, and shrimps. After a seafood fiesta, you can go around town and check out the century-old bell in the church then watch the sunset over at the San Jose Port.

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PAKIBA is best known for its exportquality mud crabs. These valuable crustaceans are raised on ponds for six months before being harvested and sold in the market. The going rate here is PhP700 to PhP900 per kilo, depending on the season.

Bangus is also plenty in San Jose.

The town has innovated this product by processing it to become “stuffed” bangus. These frozen goods come in flavors like garlic, lemon grass, chili, and cheese and mushroom, and is best when steamed. Stuffed bangus is also a popular pasalubong among tourists.

Beyond the sea The ubiquity of water (and things related) in San Jose may not be

Go chase waterfalls in the town of San Isidro.

You could opt to lounge on the easily accessible Busay, and Veriato Falls, or have a bit more challenge and trek up Canpongkol Falls.

There’s also Igot Falls, and Caglanipao Falls, which both require a day’s worth of hiking.

appealing to some people, but don’t discount the town just yet.

There is something for the history buff and the culture vulture: the hundred-year-old bell fashioned from melted coins collected and donated by a resident. Outdoorsy types would find San Jose’s duo of mountain ranges – Palusong, and Hitaasan – a veritable option for a dose of adventure. The town’s take on the classic lechon (roasted pig) would likewise entice gastronomic explorers with its unusual (and hypertension-inducing) stuffing of lobster, prawns, and crabs.

DAY 4 Head to the San Isidro port and cross to the nearby island town of San Jose. Here, you can take your pick at the many nice beach resorts that all feature the town’s famous pristine beaches.

You can also go on a boat ride across Lagbanga Lake before stuffing yourself full of kagang (land crab) and palawan (swamp taro).

While it could be said that San Jose’s identity is anchored to the ocean – right from its terrain down to its industries – the town does attempt to include a bit of variety.

And the efforts are proving to be not so bad.

DAY 5 Head to Allen and visit the famed Imaga Beach. Known for its sparkling natural pool and perfect shores, this beach is located in the village of Cabacungan.

Don’t forget to bring Allen’s prized pili products for snacks.

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10 (8) Freshly caught mud crabs ready to be sold in the market (9) Stuffed bangus is sold at Php200 to Php220 per piece depending on flavor (10) Mudcrabs ready for harvesting

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Tandang Island offers chartered boats exclusive for guests. Send them a message on Facebook at “Cornico’s Tandang Island Resort” for rates and other inquiries.

Overnight stays are also possible. Just make sure to bring a tent and enough provisions!

Boats for island hopping may be arranged by coordinating with San Jose’s Tourism Office. Contact Donna Beronilla at (0927) 649-8168.

San Jose is being positioned as a sports and adventure destination. It recently hosted the 7th RURUMBA Adventure Race: Combate Carangian (a mental and physical challenge ala “Amazing Race”), and the 1st Carangian Outdoor Festival.

BOBON

Prowess Personified Still retaining its colonial town structure, Bobon captures people through its talent, ingenuity and unwavering kindness.

Words by Jv Ramos Photos by Aye Mamba and Erish Dominic Ventura

Less than a 10-minute drive from Rosario is the municipality of Bobon, which is as humble and persevering as Northern Samar’s capital of mangroves and crabs. If in Rosario, crab and fish ponds seem to be found in everyone’s backyard; in Bobon, several homes are busy with producing pinangat – a dish made out of dried taro leaves, flavored with coconut, red chillies and canned fish.

Though pinangat seems to be Northern Samar’s own take on what Manileños refer to as laing, the dish is not so ordinary to the eyes of the Bobonanons, as the dish stands as a daily reminder of what they could be, and how they can realize their potential.

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a jeep going to Bobon.

Bobon is a 45-minute drive from Catarman (approximately 27 kilometers).

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Though pinangat seems to be Northern Samar’s own take on what Manileños refer to as laing, the dish is not so ordinary to the eyes of the Bobonanons, as the dish stands as a daily reminder of what they could be, and how they can realize their potential.

Just decades ago, taro leaves were considered useless by Bobon’s residents, and due to the space it occupied in field, were mereley seen as bothersome. But due to the Bobonanons’ perseverance to make something out of “nothing” – the formerly useless plant was eventually made into what is presently a popular dish.

Not only have Filipinos made a habit out of taking pinangat home to their loved ones as souvenirs from their Northern Samar travels, the dish is also frequently sold out in various food fairs and expos – even making its way to other countries. In fact, pinangat has earned such a level of notoriety that even watching locals prepare the dish step-by-step has become an attraction.

Great things take time The pinangat’s rich flavor is a result of many hours of combined ingredient-prepping

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and cooking – a process which pretty much mirrors the most endearing highlights of the municipality.

entails several hours of hiking to be accessed due to the absence of clear trails and eye-catching signs.

It seems that most things worth enjoying in Bobon take time. For instance, their Santissimo Nombre de Jesus (Most Holy Name of Jesus) Parish Church remains to be one of Northern Samar’s most popular historical landmarks, mainly due to the number of years spent constructing it. Records say that Jesuits, who began taking interest in Bobon in the late 1600s, laid down the foundations for the church, while the Franciscan Order is credited for finishing this massive Baroque-inspired structure – nearly 200 years later (when the Jesuits were expelled from the Philippines in 1768, they took over and completed the structure in the late 1800s).

And while it’s true that Bobon has a lot of catching up to do when it comes to tourism offerings, a visit to Northern Samar would be remiss without a short stop at Bobon. For what it lacks in unique Instagram-worthy sites, it makes up for in human treasures.

This quirk even translates to natural attractions, as with Lulugayan Falls, which

Being in Bobon makes you understand why fashion designers Dennis Lustico and Puey Quiñones have made headlines in Manila and abroad. Though in demand among celebrities and extremely talented, the two Bobon-born artists have not turned into unbearable divas.

Lustico and Quiñones, aside from being hailed for their cutting-edge designs, are praised for their involvement in sociocivic activities. Lustico, whose designs are

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 It’s best to begin the day heading to the Lulugayan Falls, located in the barangay of Balat-Balud. Motorbikes can take you to where the trail starts. The hike to the falls has been referred to as difficult due to its narrow and slippery paths, but the journey is worth it. The Lulugayan Falls greets its visits with a large swimming area In the afternoon, you can visit some of Bobon’s manmade attractions: the historical Santissimo Nombre de Jesus Parish Church and the Colgante Bridge, which gives a captivating view of the Bobon River. .

Finally, visit a pinangat maker’s home and see for yourself how much effort and heart is involved in this cottage industry.

DAY 2 Another home that’s worth visiting is that of the 28-year-old artist named Olz, who creates elaborate wire sculptures that depict the life in Northern Samar, Biblical scenes and popular cartoon characters. To know if he’s in town, contact him via his Facebook page: Art of Olz.

EXPAT TIPS

Note that January is probably the best time to visit Bobon. The Agta Festival, a celebration dedicated to the Black Sto. Niño which involves processions and dance competitions, is held on the 2nd Sunday of said month.

Lulugayan Falls is best experienced before the summer season.

Featured in these pages are the many steps involved in pinangatmaking, as seen in Ly Vee’s humble home. Quickly consumed, this dish captures the people’s perseverance and high regard for nature’s blessings.

Also shown here is the creativity and respect for tradition of the Bobonanons - qualities that are underscored in the way they prepare for and celebrate their Agta Festival and their choice of subjects when creating art.

showcased in the Paris Fashion Week 2018, is known for raising funds for organizations such as ICanServe Foundation and Smile Train. While Quiñones, who is also known for his culinary skills, has been teaching fashion to the inmates of the New Bilibid Prison for more than three years now. This project of his involves an annual fashion show-competition called the Project Bilibid

Runway, which showcases the talent and progress of his students. In 2012, Lustico’s project was turned into an award-winning documentary entitled The World’s Most Fashionable Prison, which is referred to until today as one of the must-watch documentaries.

Perhaps it’s Ly Vee, one of the more known pinangat makers, who best captures the Bobonanon spirit in words: “Simple man ang suot namin, magulo man ang bahay namin; pero ang buto namin ay puti. (Our clothes may be simple, our houses may be messy; but we’re pure in the inside).”

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CATARMAN A Tale of Two Towns

Housing the center of commerce and education, the provincial seat of government, and the most comprehensive transport hub in the province – Catarman is the Northern Samar standard-bearer for progress. But while the provincial capital may be the center of business and development, you’d be mistaken to overlook its charming touristic draws.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio Additional photos by Celine Reyes and Pineals Farm

Much like the coexistence of Catarman’s rural charm and progressive urbanization, the province’s topography similarly exhibits a welcome divide – with lush greenery and forested mountains on one side, and the blue hued rhythmic meeting of the shore and the sea on the other – while lying in between is a cocktail of rivers, rolling hills, and valleys of varying shades of green.

The provincial capital has long been considered the ideal jump-off point for most Northern Samar adventures, with its central location, airport, and transportation hub (a combination of buses, vans, jeepneys, and motorbikes that could take you to virtually any point of the province).

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(1) Catarman’s White Beach is low key one of the best beaches in the entire Samar Island – combining fine sand, swimming-friendly waters, and a wide shore that you can often have all to yourself.

(2) Gorgeous pastel sunsets are a norm at Catarman’s White Beach.

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(3) Langtaran Grove and its charming cabanas serve as a perfect launch pad for all Northern Samar adventures.

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Getting there PAL Express flies four times weekly (M-W-F-Su) from Clark to Catarman, and vice-versa.

Alternatively, there are regular flights going to Calbayog (one hour away from Catarman by land), and to Tacloban (five hours away by land).

There are multiple daily trips from Manila (Cubao and Pasay bus terminals) going to Catarman via Matnog-Allen roll-on, roll-off vessels.

But while commerce is what regularly brings people from around the province to Catarman, on the sidelines of its continued urbanization lies pleasantly surprising touristic draws.

Pure shores UEP White Beach, and Langtaran Grove are two resorts with the best elements of beach life—a wide shore of fine cream sand (that morphs into blinding white whenever the sun rages on), charming cabanas, soothing waters, and gorgeous sunsets.

The absence of Wi-Fi means you are left with the enviable choice of either soaking in the view as introspection takes its natural course, enjoying the pleasures of the sea, or having actual conversations and laughs sans smartphones.

During the five-day stretch when we called Langtaran Grove our home, as we explored different points of Northern Samar, the peace, the expanse, and unblemished state of the shore made Catarman’s White Beach hold a special spot in my personal list of favorite beaches in the country.

Hearing the rhythmic communion of the shore and the sea made both waking up to and getting ushered to sleep by it quite the blessing. And whether you spent the day soaking in the edge-of-the-world beauty of Biri Island, or swimming in the calm emerald waters of Las Navas – Catarman’s White Beach stands as the perfect home base for all your adventures in the province.

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Whether you spent the day soaking in the edge-of-theworld beauty of Biri Island, or swimming in the calm emerald waters of Las Navas – Catarman’s White Beach stands as the perfect home base for all your adventures in the province.

Rural charm For a different taste of serenity, you could also head over to Pineils Farm Resort—a retreat tucked away, where you can commune with farm animals and serve as an audience to the various species of birds wandering above.

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There are picnic sheds for smaller gatherings, and a function room for bigger ones; while swimming pools fed from natural springs complement the relaxing vibe of the rural enclave.

Palate cleanser After indulging in Northern Samar’s natural wonders, you can opt to balance your travel palate with the nightcap options to be found in Catarman, as we found ourselves doing at the tail end of a trip that took us to seven municipalities across the province.

Neon lit and quaint on the outside, Lucas Place – equal parts artful and kitschy – likewise reflects Catarman’s bipolar idiosyncrasy. Depending on the day, you could either walk into a nearly empty bar, or into a frenzied packed house, teeming with youthful exuberance. Whichever the case may be, the rustic charm of Lucas Place, and similar watering holes provide a balance to the nature-centric adventures to be had in the province.

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SUGGESTED itinerary From the airport/ transport terminal, head to the public market and shop for what you want to eat for the day. Head to Langtaran Grove, and have them prepare a local feast from what you got.

Spend the day Catarman’s lovely White Beach. Its wide shore is excellent for jogging, yoga, or just plain lazing about.

Alternatively, you can head over to Mikomiko Resort in nearby Mondragon to have a nice meal at its restaurant by the infinity pool, and with the view of Napanpan Beach.

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Head to Lucas Place to sample the Catarman night life.

Locals likewise suggest checking out 90’s Bar. In case there’s no live music that night, there’s always good old videoke to enjoy the night with.

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Catarman holds its annual fiesta at around the last week of August. The town is buzzing during the lead up to the fiesta (virtually the whole month), with food parks, live music, and a myriad of other events held nearly every night.

The waters of White Beach is ideal for skim boarding. During afternoons, it would be common to see young boys practicing their craft along the shore. If you fancy learning how to ride, they’d be more than happy to lend you their board, and watch you try.

On an exceptionally clear day, the famed Mayon Volcano is visible from White Beach.

If you’re flying out of Catarman, you can get some excellent laing just before entering the airport. The dish is great for sides, or as a topping for rice.

If you’re taking the bus, you’d be best served by riding with Mega Bus Lines. The seats have good leg room, and it has its own lavatory, which means less stops.

(4) Pineil’s Farm and Resort provides a green alternative for those seeking a different kind of tranquil.

(5) The town plaza right by the municipal hall is a good place to watch locals go about their daily lives.

(6) Malls are almost never equated with adventures, but having one accessible is convenient for restocking on much needed supplies.

(7) One of the biggest, and the only comprehensive state university in the region, the University of Eastern Philippines’ grounds offers a venue for relaxing long walks.

(8) A different day, a different hue at White Beach

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(9 - 10) Lucas Place is one of the more popular bars in Catarman. You can come in one night and find a DJ, a full band the other, and on quiet ones have the place to yourself to belt out videoke favorites.

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Lope de Vega Kernel and Fiber

A look into Lope De Vega’s leading industries Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Curious things line the highways of Lope De Vega. While the rest of Northern Samar’s roads are framed by either patches of forest or parcels of sea, those of the landlocked town were festooned by something quite different. Two things to be exact.

Liquid gold Strewn over some stretches of pavement are piles of coconut shells left to bake under the sun. These are the beginnings of copra – the source of the highly valued coconut oil.

Because Lope De Vega’s topography does not include the ocean, it relies on its lands for sustenance. A significant portion of its area is dedicated to coconut plantations, where harvest amounts to tons and tons of coconut utilized for a variety of purposes – a huge chunk of which is copra.

Coconuts are de-husked and the shells are cut in half. These shells are then either dried under the sun for up to a week, or placed into a kiln for curing. Once the flesh starts to separate and brown, these “cups” are then placed into burlap sacks ready to be sold to the market.

Golden thread Another fascinating thing that decorates the roadsides of this town are rows of makeshift clotheslines. Instead of laundry, however, it’s fine, lustrous strands that are hung.

Prized for its durability, particularly its resistance to saltwater – making it ideal for ropes used in ships – these threads are the abaca fiber.

Getting there Lope De Vega is less than an hour away from Catarman.

Jeepneys bound for here can be found at the Catarman transport terminal.

Lope De Vega_s major products in one photos_ copra and abaca

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(clockwise from top left) Lope De Vega_s major products in one photos_ copra and abaca; Once the fibers are completely dry_ these are gathered into bundles; Trunks of the abaca plant whose leaf sheaths are extracted to make the prized fiber; It takes about three trunks to get a kilo of abaca fiber;

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Huge plots of land in Lope de Vega are reserved for abaca farming.

One producer could yield up to five tons, but the process is laborious and takes approximately eight months to complete. No machine is used. Manual labor is the driving force. It involves carefully shucking the leaf sheath around the trunk of the abaca plant. Three weeks of doing this by hand would only produce less than 40 kilos of the valuable fiber.

Thriving in the toil Despite the arduous process required by both of Lope de Vega’s industries, the town does fairly well. Its people are no stranger to hard work – delights in it even. Plans to add into the residents’ skills are laid out by the local government, including trainings for mat weaving and buko (coconut) delicacy production. Pair these with the inherent diligence of the townsfolk and Lope de Vega’s should expect a more bountiful future.

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Stop by at Lope De Vega’s abaca plantations and witness how the fiber is harvested. You may also check out the copra facilities around town and see how this product is processed.

DAY 2 Satisfy your hankering for seafood by heading to San Jose. Drop by the PAKIBA facility and get the best deals on fresh, export-quality mud crabs.

There’s also stuffed bangus (milkfish), which also makes for a good souvenir.

Complete your tropical experience by going island-hopping to town’s sprinkling of islands such as Tandang, and Pangilala.

DAY 3 Hop to the next town of Victoria and chill out at the Spice of Life – a white sand beach in the village of Buenos Aires.

You may also sample the town’s celebrated taro chips made by the women of Barangay Luisita.

DAY 4 Experience a different kind of water fun by going over to San Isidro. Take your pick from its collection of cascades: Busay or Veriato if you’re looking for something chill, and Canpungkol, if you’re the adventurous type.

EXPAT TIPS

A young laborer dumping more coconut shells into the pile

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Visit Lope De Vega this Jan. 10 and take part in the first ever Lubica Festival! An amalgamation of “lubi” (the local word for coconut) and “abaca,” the event will feature activities revolving around the town’s main products.

Adventure can be found in nearly every corner of Northern Samar, and Lope de Vega folk claim that their town is no different. While there is a dire lack of access roads to the town’s potential touristic draws, an adventure that combines a boat and motorbike ride, and trekking can get to you to places like the Azucena Falls (some six kilometers from the poblacion).

The other cascades you can explore include Gasdo Falls (in Barangay Bayho), Tugabungan Falls (Barangay General Luna), and Hibabalayan Falls (Barangay Osmena).

Mondragon The Dragon’s Heart

A fascinating medley beats at the core of the town of Mondragon Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Getting there

If we are to go only by names, Mondragon would sound like an intimidating place – one where precipitous mountains inhabit the horizon; a menacing haze ubiquitous. But there is always more to a name, and while Mondragon’s terrain does have peaks a-plenty, and fog occasionally creeping in at dawn, the town’s character is far from the hardy images its name inspires.

Shore sentinel Just like most of Northern Samar, Mondragon enjoys a front seat to the wonders (and, sometimes, wrath) of the Philippine Sea. The town’s shores are blessed with fine, tawny sands, and waters brimming with life.

An island, too, graces the seascape. There is also Mombon – a capricious sandbar.

Mondragon is around 25 minutes away from Catarman. You can take jeepneys and commuter vans going to Mondragon.

Alternatively, one can also take a motorcycle from Catarman to Mondragon for PhP70/person.

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One portion of the island’s borders perpetually endures unforgiving waves while the other – essentially a bed of rock where crustaceans breed – revels in placid waters.

The coppice of tall trees that adorns the island also makes it a favorite stopover of migratory birds.

A 15-minute boat ride from the village of Makiwalo will bring you to Hirapsan Island – a land mass that serves as Mondragon’s final defense from the harsh waters of the Philippine Sea. One portion of the island’s borders perpetually endures unforgiving waves while the other – essentially a bed of rock where crustaceans breed – revels in placid waters. The coppice of tall trees that adorns the island also makes it a favorite stopover of migratory birds.

Nature’s bounty Marine products are also bountiful in Mondragon.

Bulinao (anchovies) production is a thriving industry here, as well as harvesting lato or sea grapes. But it’s not only the sea’s generosity that Mondragon enjoys. Its dynamic landscape has some of the most fertile lands in the province, even claiming to yield the most durable abaca that could survive even the worst infestations. Nipa and copra, too, are abundant in this town. Aside from rice, production of this triad of high-value crops is the main source of livelihood for Mondragon’s residents. This industry is such a huge part of local’s lives that a celebration in honor of this trio has been held every year since 2015.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Furthermore, because of the abundance of coconut trees and nipa, Mondragon has another crop in its produce arsenal: ubod – heart of palm. Harvested from the inner core or growing bud of certain palm trees, this vegetable is rich in fiber and potassium – very popular among the health-conscious.

In the hinterlands of Mondragon, particularly in an area dubbed as “Crystal Mountain,” a large concentration of rattan can be found. This “wild” palm is the source of one variety of ubod called parasan – a favorite among locals.

Get on a boat from the village of Makiwalo and visit Hirapsan Island.

Time your trip during a low tide so you’d also get to see the Mombon sandbar.

Spend the night at Miko-Miko Resort – a stylish beachfront property that features tasteful cabanas and an infinity pool.

DAY 2 Visit local Bulinao sellers and get some crispy anchovies before exiting to the next town of Silvino Lobos, where you can spend the day trekking through a dense forest to see the amazing Hilulugayan Falls.

Known for its distinct bitter, reedy taste, parasan is usually cooked in gata (coconut milk) along with shrimps. But because of the labor-intensive process of harvesting it – involving a two-hour hike, no less – this native delicacy is often reserved for special occasions.

Strong is the pulse Mondragon might elicit lofty expectations because of its fantastical name. Its facade, almost bare in its simplicity, may be a shock at first – a disappointment even. But do not let the bucolic atmosphere fool you, for beneath the charming exterior of thatched homes and easy-going people is a constitution that’s been fortified by a deep resolve to make the most of what it has been given.

DAY 3 After Silvino Lobos, drive to nearby Pambujan and check out the beautiful piece of architecture that is the St. Scholastica and St. Benedict Chapel in the village of Cababtoan.

You may also grab the export-worthy local rice cake Kunot at the Nanay Paz store.

EXPAT TIPS

Come experience Mondragon’s Abanico Festival every September 22. This celebration in honor of abaca, nipa, and copra, coincides with the town’s founding anniversary and features fun activities such as street-dancing and trade shows.

(clockwise from top left) When the tides are low, locals flock to Hirapsan Island to catch crustaceans along its shores; parasan – a variety of heart of palm known for its bitter, reedy taste. In Mondragon, this vegetable is cooked with coconut milk and shrimps; Napanpan Beach; One of the migratory birds that frequent Hirapsan Island.

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San Roque A New Dawn Awaits

With 4,000 hectares of idle land, San Roque hopes for industrialization, while preserving its unique traditions and immaculate sites Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba and Northern Samar Provincial Tourism Office

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a van or jeep going to San Roque.

San Roque is around a 45-minute drive from Catarman (approximately 40 kilometers).

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Somewhere between San Roque’s pedestrian bridge and its family-friendly beach, a squatting middle-aged man was seemingly caught in a strange trance of drawing spirals on the sand. Oblivious to the swarm of motorcycles and people that ruin his “canvas” in order to rush to their morning affairs – the man, through his artistic markings and fixed stoicism, had created a realistic commentary about his hometown: San Roque had become cyclical and predictable; very much in need of change.

But unbeknownst to the unconventional artist, the “change” he subconsciously marked on the sands had already begun.

Industrial vision San Roque is currently seeing the construction of more roads – a significant development that would soon see no barangay (village) isolated. Mayor Don L. Abalon believes that this, along with the building of other basic infrastructure, is necessary for his grand vision of transitioning San Roque from an agricultural municipality into a more industrialized one.

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Undeniably, there’s much to be done, but with a visionary for a leader, huge changes may just occur.

And what kind of industry does he hope to attract and nurture to realize that vision? The goal-oriented politician is looking at livestock as one of them, pointing out that when typhoon strikes (an unfortunately normal occurrence in Northern Samar), the livestock industry isn’t as affected as agriculture.

“And with it comes auxiliary industries – livestock needs feeds, people who will process it, people who will help export it, etc. It’ll provide many job opportunities,” Abalon added, expounding on his vision.

Apart from the development of a new industry, the mayor also pointed out another mold he intends to break.

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Spend time in San Roque Beach – a beach bum-friendly tropical slice with its wide area of shallow waters.

People watch, as locals use the sand as their canvas; fishermen creating sails from recycled materials; and townspeople relaxing on the beach or rushing to the San Roque Pedestrian Foot Bridge.

“I’d like to go break that common concept that the products we make are exclusively for us. We have to break out of our shell – aim for our products to reach other places rather than just Northern Samar.”

we’re the second largest rice trading center,” Abalon told Expat, while also pointing out that the rustic town is also home to fishing, and a unique root crop called bagong (Amorphophallus paeoniifolius).

Pride in hard work Though an industrialized community is what the mayor envisions, he still looks to nurture agricultural pride – particularly through the Parayan Festival – a festival he himself established in 2002 to remind both locals and visitors of the months of hard work it takes to produce even just a cup of white rice.

Plastic in appearance and texture, the plant is used to make a local Christmas delicacy after a long period of cultivation. Historic accounts say that the practice of cultivating and making bagong has been done since pre-Hispanic times.

Through a series of street dances, and other talent performances from locals, the Parayan Festival depicts the cycle of rice production, and underscores San Roque as a successful trading center.

“We may not be known for our rice plantations. But, outside Catarman,

Caohagan Island is a one-hour boat ride from San Roque Beach. People often head there for dolphin-watching, bat observation and to experience the island life. You can also get some of the day’s freshest catch, as fishermen frequently swing by.

Back at the San Roque town proper, shop seafood and vegetables at the municipality’s markets.

San Roque also takes pride in having Caohagan Island, an island often visited by dolphins. “It’s just across the San Roque Beach. People love it there.”

To invite more tourists in, Abalon is eyeing to develop home accommodations. Undeniably, there’s much to be done, but with a visionary for a leader, huge changes may just occur.

EXPAT TIPS

Regarding the best month to visit, the Parayan Festival takes place in March, which is also the ideal time to head to the beach. But to sample their bagong delicacy, you’d have to be in San Roque during the holiday season.

Born and raised with an agricultural mindset, San Roque hopes for faster growth by opening itself to other industries, while still celebrating and promoting tradition.

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Pambujan

Where Artisans Abound

From acclaimed sportsmen to homegrown handicrafters, Pambujan proves that its greatest strength is its people Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Bamboo furnituremaking is one of Pambujans leading industries

Much like most of Northern Samar’s towns, Pambujan is what one would succinctly describe as coastal. It shores open up to the Philippine Sea, and even its name is aquatic in origin.

The town’s name was historically derived from “pambubohan” – a word that refers to a place where crustaceans, crabs in particular, are common. Its root word is the Ninorte-waraynon “bubo,” which is a bamboo implement traditionally used for catching these creatures. But having a bounteous supply of seafood is not what makes this sleepy town stand out. The characters that reside within its folds make for a more compelling differentiation.

Legendary Little Leaguers One could imagine that upon setting foot in Pambujan, baseball would be one of the last things to come to mind. Yet this town, with its laid-back vibe and almost bare facade, is home to sports legends.

The Nalucaban Kids, despite lacking proper gear, won not one, not two, not even three, but five national championship trophies in the Little League Baseball National Open Championships. The team was hailed victorious all throughout 1975 to 1980, falling short just once in 1977.

This knack for America’s favorite pastime continues to this day. Even with insufficient

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Perched like a tent and with a roof of woven rattan, the Chapel of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica serves both as a witness to miracles and a quiet reprieve for the hospital’s visitors

funding and lack of proper training, Pambujan continues to churn out new generations of premier baseball players, making it a force to be reckoned with during nationwide sporting events.

Master woodworker Ask for a carpenter and locals would point to 39-year-old Ernesto “Netnet” Butlay.

Twenty years of shaping bamboos into meticulous pieces of furniture had made him nothing short of an expert in the field.

In his modest workshop just outside his roadside home, he toils for a minimum of 15 days just to complete a single piece of furniture.

The intricacy of his craft starts from the picking of bamboos, as certain stalks are more prone to being infested by bukbok – wood bugs. It took Netnet years to recognize the distinction. He admits he still fails occasionally. But for every one “reject,” there are countless masterpieces to make up for it. His works adorn homes across the province, even reaching as far as all the way to Leyte.

Healing haven Within the St. Scholastica Hospital in the village of Cababtoan is a piece of impressive architecture. Perched like a tent and with a roof of woven rattan, the Chapel of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica serves both as a witness to miracles and a quiet reprieve for the hospital’s visitors.

The chapel’s open-air design is made even more unique by the accents of colorful stained glass. Hailed as one of the most beautiful places of worship, it’s included in the shortlist for the 2017 World Architecture Festival.

The structure was the brainchild of WTA Architecture and Design Studio whose head architect for the project is a Pambujan local.

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(above) The Chapel of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica might be small_ but the stunning architecture makes it one of the _most beautiful places of worship_ (below) Pambujan_s town marker along the Maharlika highway

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Get on a boat and head to Caohagan Island and see its coral reefs and fruit bat colonies.

Once you head back to the mainland, you can check out the St. Benedict and St. Scholastica Chapel – hailed as one of the most beautiful places of worship by one international publication.

“Kunot” – a local delicacy made of peanuts, anis, rice, and sesame seeds. These rice crackers are export products, sold to as far as Canada A snack for the world Pambujan is also not lacking in the culinary department. The town is home to the lone maker of “Kunot” – a local delicacy made of peanuts, anis, rice, and sesame seeds.

Ligaya Base, the owner of Nanay Paz Homemade Delicacy, makes seventy 175-gram packs of kunot in one day. She sells each pack for PhP100. These rice crackers are export products, sold to as far as Canada. The vacuum-sealed packaging allows the snacks to last for up to three months.

DAY 2 Before exiting Pambujan, make sure to grab some kunot – a native crispy rice cake.

Snack on these as you head to Silvino Lobos for a day of trekking. In this mountain-rimmed town, you’ll find stunning natural attractions such as Hilulugayan Falls – a towering cascade that can be reached by a twohour trek across a wild, and overgrown trail.

DAY 3 Have a lazy day over at Miko-Miko Resort in Mondragon – a beachfront resort that features classy facilities and an infinity pool.

You may also check out Hirapsan Island, which is just a 15-minute boat ride from the village of Makiwalo.

DAY 4 Take a break from the island vibes and delve into the hustle and bustle of Catarman. Here, there are plenty of establishments – banks, fast food chains, grocery stores, where you could restock your supplies and continue exploring.

Visit the sprawling complex of the University of Eastern Philippines – the only comprehensive public university in the Eastern Visayas. There’s also the “White Beach” if you’re already missing the tropical island vibe.

EXPAT TIPS Getting there Pambujan is just about one hour from Catarman where there are vans and jeepneys at the transport terminal.

To get a whiff of ocean air, head to the Pambujan Boardwalk. The place affords a sweeping view of the sea. Best time to go is right before sunset!

There’s also Caohagan Island, famous for its elaborate coral reefs and colony of fruit bats, which can be reached via 45-minute boat ride from the mainland.

(top) Export-quality snacks proudly made in Pambujan

Alternatively, you can also take a habal-habal (motorcycle) for PhP70.

(left) Sunset falls over the Carangian Beach_ a few steps from the Pambujan boardwalk

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Catubig

From Friction to Nutrition Secluded, and tucked away from the coast, the town has constantly found a way to play a role in the province – first as a site of major violent confrontations, and now as Northern Samar’s food basket.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, there are jeeps and vans headed to Catubig.

Travel time is around 1 hour and 15 minutes.

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One of the biggest water channels in the province, the Catubig River has vast untapped tourism potential.

As perhaps the only Northern Samar municipality without a significant coastline to speak of, it is unlikely that even the most curious meandering tourist would find his way to Catubig. Curiously enough, though, back in the Colonial era, it was always a territory that found itself either playing host to friendly outsiders, or enduring a slew of attacks.

Today, this historical quirk is still evidenced by the 16th century Saint Joseph the Worker Parish Church— buttressed by solid rock, obviously designed to be a fortress. According to historians, the church played a critical role in history as battles against Moro raiders, and colonizers painted the otherwise innocuous town its rich history.

One shining moment The municipality was the site of the Battle of Catubig—a proud moment not only for the people of Samar Island, but for the entire country during the Filipinos’ stand against the Americans between 1899 and 1902.

The four-day battle began when American soldiers went to Catubig under the guise of civilian surveyors, and kicked off when their true intention of blocking Filipino guerillas from accessing supplies was unmasked.

Armed with just bolos, spears, and just a handful of firearms, the guerillas mounted a surprise attack against the Americans – one that eventually ended when the locals decided to set fire to the foreigners’ encampment.

The brave stand was recently recognized as a national historical event by the National Historical Institute, with a commemorative marker placed on the site, a stone’s throw away from the Saint Joseph the Worker Parish Church.

Today, this historical quirk is still evidenced by the 16th century Saint Joseph the Worker Parish Church—buttressed by solid rock, obviously designed to be a fortress.

Organic lead Presently, Catubig has been far removed from colorful, albeit violent history – now humming along unnoticed as a quiet inland municipality in a province peppered with raw touristic draws.

But what it lacks in natural allure, it makes up for in function, holding the distinction of being Northern Samar’s food basket.

Sheltered by richly forested mountains, and nestled in a valley by two rivers, Catubig has continually honed its craft as the provincial spearhead in organic agriculture.

The local government has consistently supported this thrust, organizing demos and trainings the field – nurturing the vital role Catubig holds in Northern Samar.

Organic farming is surprisingly the norm in the rustic town, with regular trainings and seminars afforded to locals.

Quirky romance The Catubig River – apart from being one of the largest waterways in the province – lends the sister towns of Catubig and Las Navas a nerve center, a central element not only in the two municipalities’ topography, but in its character.

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SUGGESTED itinerary

Start off with a visit to Las Navas to check out its main draws – Pinipisakan Falls, and the trail to the cave called Kilometer 3.

After the Las Navas sojourn, make a pit stop at Catubig to visit the 16th century Saint Joseph the Worker Parish Church, as well as the commemorative marker of the Battle of Catubig.

Catubig’s hanging bridge offers a glimpse into the simple lives its locals live.

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It isn’t uncommon to see locals balancing supplies, or produce on their heads as the cross the bridge, in what is an embodiment of Catubig’s quirky romance with the river.

Hoard all the bibe you can carry, and have it prepared any way you wish at your next stop. Locals should have a plethora of ways to make it a sumptuous meal.

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It’s not all history, agriculture and clams in Catubig as a couple of cascades – Ma. Theresa Falls in Barangay Vienna Maria, and and Larik Falls in Barangay C.M. Recto – offer off the grid touristic stops.

For more information about Catubig, contact Abner at (0905) 600-4266. To learn more about the town’s organic farming, contact Anita Estudillo at 09177-813-0083.

Bibe (clams) are abundant in the waters, as evidenced by the scores of it sold for cheap on the sides of the town proper’s roads. It is also the site of the hanging bridge—a shaky, albeit safe daily passageway for locals crossing to the other side of town. It isn’t uncommon to see locals balancing supplies, or produce on their heads as the cross the bridge, in what is an embodiment of Catubig’s quirky romance with the river.

Gushing from the highlands of Las Navas and out onto Laoang Bay, the Catubig River has long held the potential to offer a relaxing river cruise that could rival exponentially more renowned tourist destinations around the country. Wide and with thickly vegetated banks, it weaves through soothing hues of green, which could become a welcome compliment to the more rugged adventures Northern Samar has to offer.

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These clams which you can get for cheap can make for a myriad of sumptuous dishes.

Las Navas Aqueous Transmission

Pinipisakan Falls undoubtedly gets top billing at Las Navas, but the hour-long boat ride required from the poblacion to get to the touristic draw taking you through the richly forested banks of the Catubig River – doubles as a calming river cruise, with a standing invite to jump into its cool emerald waters at any point during the journey.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, you can get jeepney or commuter vans going to Las Navas.

Travel time is around 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Photo by Timothy Jay Ibay

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The cruise also doubles as a glimpse into the simplicity of the lives of the farming folk of Las Navas, as you’ll see them going about their daily errands by the river – an enviable state for those who frequently choked by the congestion, noise and haze of bustling cities.

I’ve never been a huge fan of waterfalls as a primary travel destination, save for absolute natural masterpieces like Kawasan Falls in Cebu, or Tangadan Falls in La Union. Frequently, I find myself underwhelmed by most of the cascades I’ve visited, considering the oft-tedious journey it takes to get to them.

But in the midst of blazing the Northern Samar trail – in the agricultural municipality of Las Navas that random morning, I left any sort of expectation in Catarman, allowing Pinipisakan Falls (not to be confused with its namesake in Western Samar) the opportunity to pleasantly surprise me.

The takeoff would be at Las Navas’ poblacion, to what would be a 15-kilometer boat ride going to the foot of the last of the three-tiered cascade. But while that distance may not seem like much, the engines on most outrigger boats plying the Catubig River upstream possess just enough power to stretch the ride to just short of an hour.

Should you find yourself on that ride though, you’ll find it to be a calming river cruise through fresh emerald waters, banked by lush vegetation – an immersion into a soothing spectrum of varying shades of green.

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Rhythmic rush Being a person who finds peace by being in the water, I chomping at the bit to jump into the inviting Catubig River – a standing invite that you could take anytime during the sojourn to Pinipisakan Falls.

And then, we heard the familiar rhythm of torrential flow. And there it was, Las Navas’ premier tourist draw. Wasting no time, I jumped into the water – pleasantly realizing it was as soothing as it had looked. The torrent made it impossible to come closer to the cascade, but even as a backdrop, it had served its purpose.

There’s a grassy knoll right before Pinipisakan’s third level, serving as a vantage to breathe in the panorama of greens, and as a picnic area to fuel for the adventures ahead. You could also rent a floating cottage, which could take you closer to the cascade – I reckon enjoying some snacks and coconuts would be best done onboard one.

River romance Just one of four Northern Samar municipalities situated nowhere near a coastline; Las Navas makes up for the absence of gorgeous seascapes with long standing love affair with the river.

The Catubig River is not only what takes you to the heart of the town, it is what slowly unveils Las Navas’ natural wonders. For visitors, it also offers a glimpse into the lives of the locals—a simpler state of affairs most can only hope for.

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SUGGESTED itinerary As tempting as it is to just jump into the river, it’s best to do so when you reach the foot of the third cascade tier of Pinipisakan Falls.

Enjoy a picnic on a floating cottage, and alternate between enjoying your grub and the water.

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Go on a short trek to the Las Navas Dam, and take another river cruise going to Kilometer 3 if you’re up for some caving adventures.

After the trek to Kilometer 3, breathe in the utterly relaxing view of the Catubig River and the lush greens banking it. Another round of snacks and coconuts would also be perfect.

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Another spot you can check out is the unambiguously named Kilometer 3 – a cave named after the roadside landmark near the spot.

Should you decide to take the trip, come prepared with flashlights and footwear adequate for caving.

You need to hire another boat by the Catubig Dam, with the boatmen doubling as your guides going to Kilometer 3. The boat ride takes less than an hour (which means another soothing river cruise), while the trek to the cave takes roughly 20 minutes.

Those who have explored Kilometer 3 say that it has the added feature of a subterranean pool, surrounded by a canopy of trees, chambers and boulders.

After going on the caving trek, ask your boatmen for some coconuts. They’ll expertly climb up the trees, and open it up for you.

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(1) The Pinipisakan Falls teases with a glimpse of its third cascade, and signals for you to jump in (2) After scaling jagged rocks, we got this view of Pinipisakan’s other two tiers.

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(5) Locals boys diving into the soothing emerald of the Las Navas – Catubig River.

(6) The river is the nerve center of Las Navas, as much a part of locals’ daily lives as land.

(3) The entrance to Kilometer 3 – a cave that supposedly cradles its own pools.

(7) The Las Navas Dam – constructed to provide irrigation to the rice plantations in sister town Catubig.

(4) Locals going about their daily chores by the river – exemplifying how embedded the waterway is to the people of Las Navas

(8) The port at the Las Navas town proper has become a center of commerce for the towns connected by the Catubig River

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Silvino Lobos

Here Lies Adventure Rough it out, get dirty, and marvel at the rawness of Silvino Lobos Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Admiring the towering gossamer Hilulugayan Falls

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Getting there From Catarman, there are motorcycles you can rent to take you halfway to Silvino Lobos.

Halfway because the motorcycle can only reach a certain point, and to go further would require you to go on foot – a 20-minute walk to the banks of the Pambujan River.

Wind riffled the leaves overhead, crackling like things frying in a skillet. It was a little past noon but the umbrageous path, heavy with the musky scent of the forest, made it hard to tell. We were deep in the woods of Silvino Lobos – one of the few landlocked towns of Northern Samar.

Reaching the place had necessitated effort, one that felt like a test of intentions and how true they were. We had walked across rutted roads. Aboard a dalamas – a tottering wooden boat devoid of outriggers – we had coursed through a murky river.

I hadn’t minded, though, for when a treefringed precipice had soared into view while we trudged through muddy roads, I had a feeling this was going to be a good one.

Protected greens Silvino Lobos has a completely different terrain from the rest of Northern Samar.

There are no beaches here. No gorgeous shorelines. No sparkling blues. Instead, there are greens. Viridian. Chartreuse. Emerald.

Moss. And there are mountains. A full ring of massif surrounds the town. There, on the fringes, is an intimate contour that peaked and dived. And the trees here... Well, there are so many.

It came as no surprise that much of Silvino Lobos is a protected area. The communities established here are considered buffer zones. Hence, very little economic activity takes place. At most, the residents practice traditional upland farming – a custom highlighted during the town’s Harasuk Festival in June. This celebration signals the start of planting season, featuring a ritualistic mass sowing of rice.

In that estuary, boats sans outriggers – called dalamas – will then take you to the town’s poblacion.

Alternatively, you can ride a jeepney or a commuter van en route to Mondragon at the Catarman public market/ terminal.

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A full ring of massif surrounds the town. There, on the fringes, is an intimate contour that peaked and dived. And the trees here...

Well, there are so many.

Then, get off at the junction to Silvino Lobos where there are motorcycles you can charter to take you to the jump-off to the Pambujan River. It should be noted that construction of a road, eliminating the need for a boat ride, is currently underway.

In a few years, the town would be more accessible.

(top) The canopied path to Hilulugayan Falls (left) Rimmed by mountains, Silvino Lobos is a nature lover’s dream

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Of course, being in the midst of such a rich and unspoiled landscape comes with certain advantages. For one thing, there are the beautiful hiking trails that lead to incredible natural marvels.

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Everyday life in town is generally slowpaced. Walk through the streets and one would find huddles of locals drinking coffee or playing a round of cards. Chickens freely roam here. On the roadsides, burlap sacks are strewn with cacao left to bake under the sun. All backyards have a number of fruit-bearing trees. Mango.

Chico. Pomelo. The houses are simple, but are crafted from precious lumbers like narra and molave. On roofs of thatched palm fronds, rectangular solar panels glint – these supplement the electricity from diesel-powered generators.

En route to magic Of course, being in the midst of such a rich and unspoiled landscape comes with certain advantages. For one thing, there are the beautiful hiking trails that lead to incredible natural marvels.

The path I was currently on was, by all definitions, wild and overgrown. Shrubs needed to be hacked off for us to be able to pass through. The crowns of trees formed an awning overhead, which glowed a mystical green from the sunlight. The bouldered track soon gave way to marshy land, then to an ankle-deep stream that 98 expat

turned deeper in places. I realized we were following the course of a river, albeit in reverse. And as common with waterways, we soon encountered our first cascade.

Layers of water gushed from a chunk of shiny black rock, feeding a small stony pool that trickled into a rivulet. On one side of the waterfall, a beam of sunlight shone. The light made it seem like the water was a tress of crystalline strands.

We did not tarry here. I was told there was more. So, tying ropes on crags and odd roots, we scaled the cascade.

Up its source, we went. The waterfalls disappeared as we ascended, and the course continued to a stream.

We encountered three more cascades along this route. One, like a prism sifting white light, cast a miniature rainbow right at its foot. The scene evoked so much magic, I half-expected a fairy to appear.

An entrancing reward I was reminded that there was one more waterfall to see. I braced myself for the last stretch, and good thing, too, for this final leg proved to be the most challenging.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Go on a trek to Hilulugayan Falls, passing through a series of minor cascades along the way. Marvel at the soaring falls and take a dip in the refreshing lagoon. Don’t forget to bring snacks!

DAY 2 Head to the town of Pambujan and visit the unique structure that is the Chapel of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica. Drop by the Boardwalk too for a seaside view, and grab some kunot rice cakes too while you’re at it.

DAY 3 Proceed to Mondragon and take a boat to Hirapsan Island in the village of Makiwalo for some beach time. After a day in the sun, you may rest your head at Miko-miko Beach Resort - a beachfront property with an infinity pool!

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Make sure to sample local snacks like suman sa latik (glutinous rice cake with coconut jam) and maruya (banana fritters). Stalls selling these are plenty in the Poblacion.

Visit the humble church in town and admire its solid narra furniture and carvings.

Go up the roof deck of the municipal hall for a panoramic view of the mountain-rimmed town.

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Against a slab of mountain, with barely a foothold for support, we hauled ourselves.

Behind us, a grove of arching bamboo formed a tunnel. A massive wall of rock loomed beyond. I relied on a length of rope and the strength of one of my companions to get me through. The trek, in general, was not grueling as far as hiking trails go. The path was rarely steep, but the novelty of clambering up sheer rock facades – with nothing but a rope, and just a whole lot of heart – made it decidedly eventful, but as soon as I found out what waited on the other side, Silvino Lobos felt even more like home.

It soared and soared. I arched my neck until it ached just to see how tall it was.

Northern Samar has been generous to me, showing me its trove of great waterfalls, but this one...

“Absolutely worth it,” I breathed.

Hilulugayan Falls it was known, and it was one of the best I’ve seen. Against a sheet of burnished stone, furrowed by the flux and adorned by moss and herbaceous plants, the water rushed. The flow was steady.

Effusive, in fact, but somehow gossamer. It dropped like a delicate shroud over the wall of rock, stumbling over a stony shelf before settling into a ring-shaped lagoon.

I was entranced. I found it hard to look away.

In my travels, I’ve learned to carry little to no expectations. I’d arrived here, in Silvino Lobos, blissfully unaware of what awaited me, but I was sure that the thrill that this town affords did not stop at Hilulugayan Falls. The numerous peaks that crowd its

(1) Poultry roam the streets of Silvino Lobos (2) Dalamas – a boat fashioned by the locals of Silvino Lobos without outriggers to make it easier to ply the Pambujan River (3) Silvino Lobos’ small and simple church (4) Suman sa latik – one of the traditional snacks common in Silvino Lobos (5) Tracing the watercourse in reverse would eventually lead to a waterfalls

horizon – Mt. Magsusmo the “Sleeping Giant,” for example – were bound to have their share of spectacles, their own brand of awe.

The character of Silvino Lobos is one that would appeal to many; to thrill-seekers, especially to those who tend to stray from the beaten path. Even with a laidback, rural, isolated exterior, the town ultimately sweeps in, delivering its promise of pure, unbridled adventure. expat 99

Palapag

Of Rugged Charm and Pleasant Surprises Beaches, tidal pools, and sandy picnic areas beside majestic rock formations are just some of the unspoiled offerings of this historical, and naturally blessed town. And the pleasant surprises don’t end with Palapag’s stunning natural attractions, as evidenced by the English-style pub/inn right in the middle of town.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio Main photo courtesy of Charlene Ong

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ccording to historians, Palapag was already a thriving community when the earliest Spanish voyagers docked before its shores – progress perhaps owed to its strategic location at the eastern tip of the country facing the Pacific Ocean.

But apart from being one of the earliest settlements to enjoy progress before most parts of the island, history also tells tales of bloody conflicts – violent struggles stemming from its much sought-after location – a crucial territory in the quest for economic dominance among the Dutch, English and Spanish—world superpowers at the time.

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A visit to Palapag today, though, would paint an entirely different picture, as you’d come across an unassuming, quiet town seemingly in a world of their own – albeit one that remains naturally blessed – no longer as the ideal territory for trade it once was, but with raw topographical beauty.

Surprise at every turn As with most municipalities of Northern Samar, tourism isn’t a main economic driver in Palapag – though not for a lack of potential offerings. The Rakitdakit rocks, for one, has the potential to rival the rugged allure long enjoyed by the Biri rock formations.

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Getting there From Catarman, take a van or jeepney going to Rawis (PhP70)

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From Rawis, take a five-minute boat ride crossing to Laoang (PhP10). Then, take a trike or habal-habal (motorbike) going to Calomotan (PhP40).

Until you head down, you’ll just have to take our word for now – photos find it hard to give this view justice

From Calomotan, you need to cross again to Pangpang Port via another quick motorboat ride (PhP10). Then, from the port going to Palapag town proper, take another habalhabal (PhP30).

Going to the Rakitdakit rocks normally costs PhP40. The price should be around the same for other touristic sites like Guinpandayan, and Talolora Beach.

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Photo by Timothy Jay Ibay

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(2) Even calves can’t help but chill in Palapag (3) Nature has left a bunch of natural masterpieces like this all around Northern Samar (4) For beach bums, there’s Talolora Beach, just a short drive away from the Rakitdakit rocks (5) Raw chill This slice or paradise is open for picnics and is just beside the rock formations

Located in Barangay Cabatuan, the rocks stand between the crashing waves of the Pacific and the mountainous terrain that encircles the town proper. From the main road at the foot of the mountains, it’s part of a stunning panorama akin to staring into the edge of the world—with the rocks cradling clear tidal pools from the rugged sea, as thickly forested hills obscure the white sandy beach below.

The beach, accessible via the main road, is not for swimming, but instead is an area that has become a unique picnic site. Lush green, white sand, and a ragged coastline is the pleasant surprise that’s unveiled as you make your way down the road. expat 101

Right in the middle of town is Cobadongga Inn. Though covered with unimposing wood panels – there is a distinct character to its façade that lures you in to discover what lies behind its doors.

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 From Catarman, head to Palapag’s Guinpandayan view deck to marvel at the stunning panorama that features rock formations, tidal pools, and the Pacific Ocean.

On the ground floor, you’ll find a dimly lit saloon with good music wafting through the air.

The English-style pub has a fully stocked bar, and serves a combination of local and international grub; while upstairs lies seven thoughtfully crafted rooms with all the modern comforts to help you rejuvenate after a day of Palapag exploration.

We would later learn that, much like the rest of Northern Samar, hidden, pleasant surprises are a recurring theme in Palapag – not only when it comes to its natural gems, but with the delightful experiences to be had at nearly every turn.

Then, take a trek down the hills to the Rakitdakit rocks to breathe in the 360-degree view of unspoiled tropical paradise.

Enjoy a picnic on the sandy areas between the rocky coast and the richly forested hills.

Make sure to bring your own supplies, and leave nothing but footprints

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Head back to the Palapag town proper, and check-in at Cobadongga Inn. Unwind at the pub area, down a few drinks, and enjoy the game room.

DAY 2 Get some salukara (local pancakes made with coconut wine), and hot chocolate for a relaxed breakfast at Cobadongga Inn’s balcony.

Take a walk around town, and check out some of the heritage sites Then, you can either explore Palapag’s other touristic attractions like Sangay Falls, Darag cave, Mt. Boboyaon, or Palihon Island.

(6) The Sumuroy Monument – one of many tributes to the province’s hero (7) Inside Cobadongga Inn – for a different kind of unwinding (8) The ruins of the 17th century fortress church (9) Locals crossing over from Laoang

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Alternatively, you can also head over to neighboring Laoang, and enjoy a chill afternoon at Onay Beach.

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LaoanG Natural Seclusion

One of the oldest settlements on the entire island carries with it a rich history beneath its bucolic veil.

Words by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos by Macjanry Imperio Additional photos by Jade Adora

The laid back vibe of Onay Beach leaves no hint of Laoang’s rich, often violent past

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a jeep/van going to Rawis.

It could be some of the slowest motorized boats still known to man.

But taking it to and from the mainland across Laoang’s natural moat is a daily routine for most of the municipality’s 50,000-odd residents. It’s also become quite an attraction in itself, with the unique transit station bringing everything from passengers and daily supplies, to appliances and motorbikes to and from the town proper.

Perhaps the moat served as a natural protection back when Laoang Island suffered constant attacks from the Moro

invaders. Today, though, it has made Laoang a transit town going to and from the Pacific towns of Gamay, Lapinig, Mapanas, and Palapag.

Like most of the coastal Eastern municipalities of Northern Samar, Laoang was once frequented by galleons and sailing ships from Europe and North America – lending the quiet town historical significance around the province. A number of these structures and sites remain to this day, adding points of interest to what has become an otherwise rustic resort town.

From Rawis, you’ll need to take a short boat ride to cross over to the town proper.

From there, tricycles and habal-habals (passenger motorbikes) are available to any point of Laoang island.

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St. Michael the Archangel Paris Church is one of the fortress churches built by Spanish priests across the province. It was originally built in 1683 by Jesuit missionaries, and was renovated by the Franciscan friars with 1.7-metter thick cobblestone walls as a way to protect the locals from the Moro raiders.

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Historical remnants At Laoang Island – one of four major areas of the municipality (with the plains at the mainland, Batag, and Cahayagan Islands being the other three) – there is the St. Michael the Archangel Parish Church, one of the fortress churches built by Spanish priests across the province. It was originally built in 1683 by Jesuit missionaries, and renovated by the Franciscan friars with 1.7-metter thick cobblestone walls as a way to protect the locals from the aforementioned Moro raiders.

Just a short walk from the church is Inogkahan—a stone-lined passage cutting through Tumaginting Hill. The manmade shortcut, which was excavated during the

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American colonial period in 1913, provides a shorter route to the other side of the town center. During the Japanese occupation, though, it served a different purpose when soldiers created foxholes at the sides of Inogkahan where they hid from marauding guerillas and American soldiers.

Meanwhile, the second-highest lighthouse in the country can be found in Batag Island.

The Batag Lighthouse was constructed to guide vessels passing through the San Bernardino Strait – previously the most traveled waterway in the archipelago. The 101-foot tower is situated on top of Mount Culipapa at an elevation of 218 feet above mean low water.

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SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Check out the historical places of interest in the town proper. This shouldn’t take long, though, as the St. Michael the Archangel Parish Church, and the Inogkahan Pass is just a short walk away from each other.

Lounge at any of Onay Beach’s resorts. You can either picnic, swim in its friendly waters, or crack open a few cold ones as you stare out into the sea or enjoy laughs with friends.

DAY 2 Head to neighboring Palapag, and enjoy its beautiful sights like the Rakitdakit rocks, beach and tidal pools.

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Purple and gold ending As fore mentioned, apart from being a transit point (and probably because of it), Laoang has also become a popular resort town among locals. And one of the most popular spots is the laid back Onay Beach in Barangay Dona Luisa – just two kilometers from the town proper. Facing the Laoang Bay, it’s lined with resorts that have become go-tos for picnics and beach bumming. It’s also become the takeoff point for island hopping offerings that takes you

Because of the natural moat surrounding the town proper, there are virtually no four-wheeled vehicles in Laoang Island. Getting around will be mostly limited to tricycles and habal-habals.

Onay Beach cottages start at PhP500 for the whole day, while rooms (good for four) start at PhP1,200.

There 62 nito (forest vine) in Barangay Cahayagan, making all sorts crafts that make for good souvenirs.

For more information on how to get started on your Laoang adventures, contact Jade Adora at (0946) 657-3000.

One of the most popular spots is the laid back Onay Beach in Barangay Doña Luisa – just two kilometers from the town proper. Facing the Laoang Bay, it’s lined with resorts that have become go-tos for picnics and beach bumming.

around the bay to Batag and Cahayagan Islands.

We didn’t get to ask during our visit, but Onay, curiously enough, translates to “suicide” in the vernacular. The beach’s vibe couldn’t be further from its name’s literal translation, though, as apart from the pervading slow pace in that side of the island, gorgeous sunsets of purple and gold hues are a daily occurrence that stands as a memorable signal to the day’s end.

(1) The 15th century St. Michael Archangel Parish Church (2) The Inogkahan pass lends the town proper a unique touch (3) Snacks like these make for good souvenirs, and quick bites as you explore Northern Samar (4) Not to be outdone by its brethren and its featured cascades, Laoang has Gitbatangan Falls to complement its beaches and historical sites (5) Laoang’s nito products from Cahayagan Island weavers are also excellent gifts for people back home (6) Lazy days to detox from the world’s stressors is one of Onay Beach’s fortes.

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Mapanas The Story Keeper

Already multiplying myths and historical inquiries, Mapanas expands its story collection by preserving its immaculate features and engaging in new ventures Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba and Erish Dominic Ventura

No other place in Northern Samar brews legends and inquiries about the past the way Mapanas does. Exhibiting rock islands that seem to have been carefully sculpted by giants, and a vast and welcoming coastline, this municipality can easily take anyone’s imagination back to the Age of Exploration. Such train of thought isn’t too far-fetched though, as there are records of Spanish and British galleons visiting this area, and archaeological evidence that shows that foreign blood penetrated Mapanas’ shores.

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Grave of mystery Where the bones currently rest is a tourist attraction, known as Sangat Burial Ground. Requiring visitors to go through a slippery and rocky trail, this elevated burial site was excavated in recent months, causing some bones to crumble, scatter and go missing. In spite of the disturbance, however, one could still tell (from the size of the remaining intact bones) that those buried here were not locals or from any of the countries nearby. Whoever they may be, the people of Mapanas, being devoted Catholics, exert time to visit this place to honor the dead – leaving behind a sprinkling of coins and candles over the site.

Getting there

Enchanting trio Across the mysterious open graveyard is debatably the most iconic natural wonder of Mapanas – a series of three rock islands, whose middle entity seems to have been pierced by a sword. Named Binalarawan (or spear of the ocean), this rock is believed to have been wounded by the province’s local hero Sumuroy. Such folklore, of course, is difficult to accept as reality; but what cannot be denied is the enchanted atmosphere surrounding the Mayongpayong Rock Formations, which is the collective term for three rock island.

From Catarman, take a van or jeepney going to Rawis (PhP70)

From Rawis, take a five-minute boat ride crossing to Laoang (PhP10). Then, take a trike or habal-habal (motorbike) going to Calomotan (PhP40).

From Calomotan, you need to cross again to Pangpang Port via another quick motorboat ride (PhP10). Then, from the port going to Palapag town proper, take another habalhabal (PhP30).

During high tide, all you are confronted with is a parade of gigantic rock formations – a topography idiosyncratic to Northern Samar. But when the tide gives way to the shore, this pocket of Mapanas reveals a stony surface that draws in foreign birds and allows visitors to come closer to the rock islands and bear witness to its more elaborate forms (easily a crowd-favorite is a fluid-looking mushroom form housed by the leftmost rock island).

Mapanas’ impressive rock wonders do not end with Mayongpayong though. Just miles away from the main beach area is the oncecursed Pinusilan Rock, which houses a blue lagoon wherein a small group of people can swim. Locals say that ghosts roamed around this natural wonder from the American Period until 1989 – the year when a bishop and some priests “blessed the rock” and drove the evils away by swimming in its waters.

Several gigantic rock formations can also be found on the beachfront; unfortunately, due to their accessibility, these have been vandalized with names and drawings using white paint.

Mapanas is around 45 minutes away from Palapag.

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SUGGESTED itinerary Your hour-to-hour activities are heavily dependent on the tides. When the waters are high, set aside your long walks to the Pinusilan and Mayongpayong Rock Formations first, and visit the Sangat Burial Ground or the Guinbenditahan Cave.

Thankfully, the fast-spreading wild flora and moss in Mapanas could cover the graffiti in the years to come.

Still on the topic of rocks, the dramatic feel these exude makes Mapanas an up-and-coming pre-nuptial photo shoot destination (and a social media magnet).

While much of Mapanas caters to

myth lovers and adventure seekers, this municipality also has a realistic and well-grounded side. In recent years, it has been drawing in investors and non-government organizations, as it engages in seaweed harvesting for food and cosmetic-making, swinefattening and poultry production, the cultivation of cassava and sweet potato crops, among other cottage industries.

Much can already be done in the Mapanas beach front, such as feasting on its fat coconuts, exploring wild flora and the markings that previous visitors have left behind, and creating your own natural sculptures using the shells, corals and smooth stones that cover the beach. Just make sure that you take nothing but photos/ videos, and leave only footprints behind.

EXPAT TIPS

Ask the locals about the schedule of the tides, as your trip to the “blue lagoon” or the Pinusilan Rock and the Mayongpayong Rock Formations is determined by that.

Wear trekking sandals for most of the paths are either rock and wet or entails submerging your feet in sea water (during low tide).

If you’re planning on doing some spelunking, bring your own equipment and stick to the caves that have already been approved for touring by the DENR. See to it that you inform the locals, specifically the barangay you’re in, about your itinerary.

Pictured here are Mapanas’ queer rock formations, remnants from the colonial and recent past, as well as sites that are now used as backdrops to life’s milestones.

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Lapinig On the Verge

Some places will surprise you, and the border town of Lapinig, despite (and, perhaps, because of) its timid facade, is poised to pleasantly make you so.

Words and photos by Celine Reyes

Getting there From the Catarman transport terminal, take a commuter van to Laoang. Travel time is about two hours. This will take you up to the Laoang Integrated Terminal Complex.

From there, you can take a tricycle or a pedicab to the ferry terminal in the village of Rawis where you’d take five-minute boat ride to the poblacion.

Once there, take a tricycle to Barangay Calomotan.

The roads went on for miles without another vehicle in sight. There were soaring canopies overhead, dappling sun fall and making things look blunt. Everything here looked unsure. Even the air seemed hesitant, bridling as if embarrassed by what it was meant to do. The moment I stepped out into town, I had a growing suspicion that Lapinig was trying hard not to get noticed.

It was high noon when we arrived, but instead of crisp colors, the details of the town were muted, like a picture that had turned sepia with age. There was a wistfulness to this place, one that’s typically felt in places considered liminal. Lapinig seemed used to being the threshold, to just being a gateway to someplace else.

Who could blame it? Venture farther south (or west) and you’ll end up in Eastern Samar. To the northeast, and you’re out at sea, right in the thick of the Pacific Ocean. The town is a boundary. And, really, what does a boundary have to offer?

Turns out, a lot.

There, take another ferry to Barangay Pangpang in the town of Palapag.

Once in Pangpang, you have three options to get to Lapinig. One would be to get on a commuter van for PhP300 per person.

This would require you to wait for the van to reach its passenger capacity, usually 10 persons.

Alternatively, charter the entire van for PhP1,500 – PhP3,000. Or, for the cheapest option, take a motorcycle for PhP200. From Pangpang, it’s about an hour to reach Lapinig.

Wave breakers protect Canawayon Island from the harsh waves of the Pacific

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Sure, the dishes were nothing fancy, but, boy, were they delicious. They were also very filling, and as it were, I had all the energy for our next agenda.

Simple gastronomic pleasures Practicality would not be out of place for a town like Lapinig. At first glance, the plates of local merienda (snack) laid before us looked underwhelming. A pair of it was wrapped in banana leaves; the other two without embellishments. For my part, I’ve learned long ago that looks can be deceiving, and so, I reached for a bakintol, carefully peeled its sleek banana leaf wrapping, then sank my teeth into its gooey core. I could taste coco milk, detecting the fragrance of the banana leaves as well.

Next, I went for an ibus, which was hard to tell apart from bakintol because both were encased in banana leaves. It tasted like an improved version of the cassava cake, with shredded coconut filling at that!

Salakura, meanwhile, was Lapinig’s version 110 expat

of a pancake. Made from rice flour, sugar, and a helping of tuba (palm wine), it had a sourness taken to another level. I reckon it would go well with a hot cup of tea.

My favorite of the delicacies, however, was badhuya. Essentially deep-fried banana cake, it was surprisingly not greasy. I abandoned all restraint and just devoured everything.

Still with a mouthful of badhuya, I asked how much the snacks cost. The heaping plates on our table were under fifty bucks, I found out. Everything was priced at just PhP5 each!

Sure, the dishes were nothing fancy, but, boy, were they delicious. They were also very filling, and as it were, I had all the energy for our next agenda.

Where the waves break Aboard a pedicab (bicycle with a sidecar), we proceeded to the town’s port. Here, we hopped on a boat and sliced through the blanket of azure that was a portion of the Pacific. A heavy bank of clouds rolled across the sky. For a moment, it turned gray and dreary. The ocean spray lost in the drizzle.

Nonetheless, as we approached Canawayon Island – the lone punctuation in the otherwise unabbreviated expanse – the rain turned diffident and eventually let up. In no time, the sun was up and shining again.

Our boat docked and I slid off its bow down to the soft, chalky sands of the island.

Canawayon was bare, save for a few structures left in ruins by the recent storm.

Most of the trees here were skewed in haphazard angles, but the grove remained thick and lush.

SUGGESTED itinerary DAY 1 Make like a Survivor Castaway and spend a night camping in Canawayon Island.

Just bring provisions and a tent. Be ready to catch the sunset when the meeting of birds takes place.

Wake up early, too, since the island also affords a beautiful sunrise.

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After camping out in Canawayon, proceed to Putong Beach and make the most of Lapinig’s length of pristine shores. Don’t forget to grab some badhuya on your way there to keep you energized!

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EXPAT TIPS

A two-way boat ride to Canawayon costs PhP500 and takes about 30 minutes. Bring tent and provisions if you plan to stay the night.

The Lapinig Women’s Organization also sells handwoven baskets made from nito, and takay – fibers harvested from a native fern. These make for great souvenirs and gifts.

(1) Salakura – Lapinig’s version of a hotcake (2) Made from rice flour and coco milk, bakintol is a simple but filling snack (3) Baskets woven from takay – a native fern (4) Local banana cakes called badhuya (5) Handicrafts made from nito (6) Lapinig’s Putong Beach boasts fine sands and crystal clear waters (7) Canawayon Island is just a 30-minute boat ride from mainland Lapinig 7

I started walking across the beach, determined to chart its periphery. All the while, I had Florence and the Machine’s “How Big, How Blue, How Beautiful” playing in my head. The scene before me merited it.

Light brown, almost beige, sands welcomed the ebbing tide, clear and glimmering. I watched the colorless water recede into a gradient of blue: an arc of turquoise that bled into a deep, deep aquamarine. I’ve had my fair share of immaculate beaches, but Canawayon elicited a quiet but sincere “wow” from me.

How big, how blue, how beautiful.

As I came close to finishing my circumnavigation of the island, I spotted something curious. Just a few steps from the shore were two rows of stone structures

shaped like Toblerones with its tops sliced off. They followed the rim of the island, forming some sort of barricade. Wave breakers.

Rested in the midst of the fickle Pacific Ocean, Canawayon suffers relentless waves and countless storms. The oddlyshaped wave breakers temper the blows, lessening the damage. This allows flora to thrive in the island’s shores, which, in turn, invites flocks of migratory birds to converge on its canopies. I was told the island comes alive at dusk as hundreds of birds come to it to roost.

A humble harbor I wasn’t able to witness this confluence of birds, but it was just as well. We headed back to the mainland to try and see more of Lapinig’s character, shy as it may be.

To Putong Beach, we were then taken; to a stretch of shore as impressive as Canawayon’s. It was, again, stripped of structures. Beautiful as it was bare. My only regret at that point was failing to bring a swimsuit.

Looking out into the now familiar gradient of blue, I thought of one thing – if I were to limit my description of Lapinig to a single word, I would use: unassuming.

From the structures that could be seen around town, the practical food, the raw natural wonders, all the way to the mien of its people, everything was just so mild and timid. Save for the garish “I (Heart) Lapinig” in the town square (and even that felt halfhearted), the place radiated resignation. It was comfortable, contented, of its identity. A border town. A boundary.

Unaware of the spectacles it holds.

Or, perhaps, Lapinig is aware. Maybe it knows of its beauty – it just doesn’t make a big deal out of it. After all, beautiful things don’t ask for attention. expat 111

Gamay

The Next Big Small Thing A leader’s ambitious outlook is making Gamay go through all the right transformations for a better future.

Words and photos by Jv Ramos Additional photos by Aye Mamba , Erish Dominic Ventura and Northern Samar Provincial Tourism Office

A staple in typhoon-related news due to being bound by the Pacific Ocean, Gamay is often thought of as frayed, recovering and lagging behind. While this may have been the municipality’s status for many years, it is now proactively discarding its reputation of being vulnerable. It now manifests order, preparedness and a craving for continuous advancement.

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For me, you shouldn’t just have things made, see to it that these are made beautifully!

Just take a look at its government center!

When Expat came for a visit, the place was beaming with two spick-and-span buildings: a towering orange municipal hall that’s fully furnished and oozing with action even on a Sunday afternoon, and a newly constructed blue-and-white municipal police station, whose people seem to embody the words “Home of the Friendly Policemen” painted at its front.

What’s more is the municipal government had just installed a public Wi-Fi system – something that even prosperous cities in the Philippines have difficulties in executing.

We have to be ambitious,” puts forward Dr. Timoteo Capoquian Jr., the current mayor of Gamay, in Filipino. “For me, you shouldn’t just have things made, see to it that these are made beautifully!”

Getting there From Catarman, take a van or jeepney going to Rawis (PhP70)

From Rawis, take a five-minute boat ride crossing to Laoang (PhP10). Then, take a trike or habal-habal (motorbike) going to Calomotan (PhP40).

From Calomotan, you need to cross again to Pangpang Port via another quick motorboat ride (PhP10). Then, from the port going to Palapag town proper, take another habal-habal (PhP30).

Influenced by the ideals he picked up from medical school, this politician underlines that beauty goes beyond the setting up of camera-worthy physical structures.

Beautifying Gamay means equipping it with infrastructure and services that entice its residents to work, that pave way to a progressive and community-centered future, and give importance to the natural resources and skills of the land.

Thus, aside from establishing an efficient municipal hall and police station, he has built an immense transport terminal that also functions as a commercial center, and went as far as allotting land for an airport.

Gamay is around 1 hour and 15 minutes away from Palapag.

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Gamay may be small, but it can be many things.

“I’ve set up a three-kilometer runway that is free from any distractions,” explains Capoquian, who tirelessly studies other municipalities in Northern Samar in order to secure his hometown’s sustainable development. “You have to be prepared even if there are no signs yet of constructing an airport. It [thinking beyond] is the only way you can attract visitors and opportunities to Gamay.”

But don’t think that Gamay’s future would consist entirely of cement buildings and polished roads.

Capoquian recognizes Gamay’s strength lies in its pristine landmarks; and so, the projects he authorizes simply enhance, preserve and grant accessibility to these.

“Gamay may be small, but it can be many things,” the mayor sums up.

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SUGGESTED itinerary

While Gamay’s municipal hall is already impressive during the day, the building together with its “I Love Gamay” front is a work of art in the evening.

Start your day in Gamay by visiting its famous landmarks, which are far from the government center, such as Matikawol Falls and Sila Point.

Spend an afternoon in Araw Beach, which is named after Araw City, the home of enchanted beings in Gamay. Having an immense shoreline, this beach is always busy, allowing you to observe the lifestyle of the locals.

Woodcarving is another activity that Gamay is known for.

Watch local carvers turn transform wood into high-quality furniture, religious reliefs or dragon sculptures in their own workshops.

EXPAT TIPS

Gamay’s municipality offers free public Wi-Fi

which you can access without having to enter the building. You can check your online accounts here, especially since signal is difficult to attain in some areas of the province.

Aside from the Araw Beach, other natural offerings that Gamay has are: Gapo Beach, Canawayan Beach, Matikawal Falls and Bag-ot Falls.

When in the company of locals, ask them to share

with you their personal experiences with the folk of Araw City, the place where supernatural beings dwell. It is said that they shapechange and roam around Gamay.

Coordinate with the municipality tourism officer if you’d like to visit the workshops of woodcarvers.

These snapshots prove that Gamay is currently a destination of contrasts. Parading huge government structures and terminals, the municipality sees to it that its natural environment, mythical aura and craftsmanship are preserved

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EVENTS

MY FOREIGN AFFAIRS

By Butch Bonsol

Knighting an Italian Star Last August, restaurateur, sommelier, Renaissance man, and long time Expat friend Paolo Nesi was awarded the title of Cavaliere dell’Ordine della Stella d’Italia (Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy).

The L’Opera founder was given the honor for his contributions in elevating awareness and appreciation for Italian gastronomy in the Philippines, as well as for his varying philanthropic advocacies.

Nesi’s honor stemmed from the nomination of Italian Ambassador Massimo Roscigno, which was approved by the Italian Prime Minister Paolo Gentiloni, and signed by President Sergio Mattarella.

The title was bestowed to Nesi at the Ambassador’s residence at an event attended by the many friends and partners he’s made throughout the 24 years he’s called the Philippines his second home. Those who were at the intimate gathering were treated to a sumptuous Italian spread from renowned Italian restaurant L’Opera.

To my good friend, Paolo, congratulations on the honor! Saluti!

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(1 ) Paolo Nesi with Italian Ambassador Massimo Roscigno (2) Ambassador Roscigno with Paolo Nesi and his wife Sirpa Nesi (3) (L-R) Jose Alejandro, Agnes Roscigno, Marilou Alejandro, and Expat’s Butch Bonsol

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(4) Amb. Roscigno, Cory Quirino, and Paolo Nesi (5) (Upper Row) Ursula, Agnes and Amb. Roscigno, with Mr. and Mrs. Alejandro (6) Noel Ermitano and Oscar Ong (7) The L’Opera Group Staff (8) Louie Ysmael, Vicky Zubiri, and Pepper Teehankee (9) Saki Tuisolia, Paolo Nesi, and Oscar Ong (10) Hazel and Brett Toolhurst (11) The Italian Ambassador’s lovely family with Butch Bonsol (12) Ursula with her father, Amb. Roscigno (13) The L’Opera Group Staff with partners Emil Napa and Chef Antonio (14) Bill Stone with Agnes Roscigno

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PITSTOP

Spa in the City: I’M ONSEN Head on over to the metro’s largest spa to recharge and rejuvenate, the Onsen way Words by Angie Duarte Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

Expat brings you a different kind of Pit Stop, in this issue – it is none other than the in-demand I’M ONSEN Spa at I’M Hotel in Makati. With a tagline that promises “relaxation and wellness, always within reach,” I’M ONSEN Spa is truly the first of its kind, affording topnotch pampering for people on the go.

“I’M ONSEN Spa is the largest urban Spa and first Onsen in the Philippines, with an area of 3,800 sqm with multi-level Spa floors on six levels of the hotel,” notes Carol Leysa Laguna, Director of Spa. A day at the spa includes not only a blissful treatment at the trained hands of DOH-accredited therapists, but also a sumptuous buffet lunch or dinner at Bloom, the hotel’s restaurant.

The treatment of your choice may be enjoyed in the comfort of one of many Pods at the facility, or, for a minimal add-on cost, in an exclusive Wellness Suite. Whichever you choose, however, the result is the same: guaranteed rejuvenation. Bestselling therapies include the I’M ONSEN Signature Massage, the traditional Philippine Hilot, and Shiatsu.

Guests may also enjoy a dip in the infinity pool, immersion in therapeutic, volcanic mineral enriched state-of-theart thermal baths (which mimic Japan’s popular hot springs or onsen), as well as foot massages and a variety of teas at the spacious Relaxation Lounge.

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The IM ONSEN Spa experience will embark you on a different Spa journey that will make you feel rejuvenated, relaxed and reborn

“The IM ONSEN Spa experience will embark you on a different Spa journey that will make you feel rejuvenated, relaxed and reborn. Although we only opened in February 2017, we have already ranked #1 Spa in the metro on TripAdvisor,” Laguna shares.

Find out why this Japanese-inspired sanctuary in the bustling metropolis has won a faithful following. Make a pit stop at I’M ONSEN today.

I’M ONSEN is at I’M HOTEL, 7862 Makati Ave. cor. Kalayaan Ave., Makati.

Visit www.imonsenspa.com for bookings and details.