Expat Travel & Lifestyle Magazine: LOVE LOKAL ISSUE

AS GREEN AS IT GETS

8

MOBILE APPS TO HELP YOU LIVE LOCAL

BREW-MANCE

PHP 199 199 || USD USD 5.25 5.25 || GBP GBP 3.25 3.25 || EUR EUR 3.75 3.75 PHP

2 | expat

expat | 1

F LY F R O M TURKISHAIRLINES.COM TURKISHAIRLINES.COM

MANIL A +63322 8894 9455416 416 || ++ 663322 88664400660000 +6

WHAT’S INSIDE What’s On

40 16 Loca for Local

21

This September, brace yourself for a night when music, comedy and stunning visual effects all come together as the Blue Man Group comes to Manila!

Hope Make the right choice with your peso! Learn how Hope in Bottle redefines purchasing power

Plus, a slew of fun events to fill your calendar

Local Shores

Creative, handcrafted and proudly Filipino made – get acquainted with our sampling of local products you should get a hold of

43 On the cover: Bambike founder Bryan Benitez McClleland with one of his Revolution Cycles (p.98).

Expat would like to thank Kultura for Bryan’s Hijo long sleeved shirt Shot by Martin San Diego

Caramoan While most of you have probably heard about Caramoan Island, I bet you didn’t know about experiencing this tropical paradise from high above

WHAT’S INSIDE

Local Shores

Grub Hub

Smokey Tours Dutch national Juliette Kwee takes you to the Metro Manila most don’t get to see, and leaves you with a perspective most would be blessed to have

83

54

It may be environed Prohibition Era-style, but absolutely no one’s going to prevent you from enjoying this sumptuous all-beef burger at Pablo’s

78

Hungary Read up on why Budapest and the rest of Hungary should be in your next travel plans

Global View

63 92

Albania The once recluse Balkan region opens up to unveil this Southeastern European gem

Amacena Chef Luigi Muhlach reimagines Filipino cuisine.

Head over to Tagaytay to taste the difference at Amacena!

expat | 7

WHAT’S INSIDE

108

Love Locale

105

Rekindling hope, restoring pride—get to know how the Mangyan Village is cultivating the heritage of the marginalized indigenous people of Puerto Galera

On the Cover

Stairway Read up on how Stairway Foundation is breaking the silence on child abuse – empowering victims along the way

98 The most efficient machine built by man meets the greenest building material on the planet. It’s all part of the Bambike revolution, and it’s as green as it gets

Grub Hub

Pit Stop

114

94 While an ice cold San Miguel will also be beloved in these islands, a number of creative folk have been brewing a movement to broaden the local craft beer palate. Read up on the many brew flavors on our list

Pit Stop Find out why everyone’s been raving about this formerly secret Makati underground bar

THE GRAND DAME’S NEW FIESTA PAVILION A HOME OF EXEMPLARY CELEBRATIONS

Host your most important events at The Manila Hotel. Call us today at 527 0011 local 1271 to 1274 to discuss your requirements so that we can make your gatherings all the more special.

ONE RIZAL PARK, 0913, MANILA, PHILIPPINES WWW. MANILA-HOTEL.COM.PH

founding Publisher

Murray Hertz (1928-2014) Publisher

Butch C. Bonsol Associate Publishers

Francesca L. Ortigas Vernon Prieto Editor-in-chief

Timothy Jay Araneta Ibay Associate Editor

C. Jude Defensor Staff Writers

Angie Duarte Ching Dee Via Baroma Layout and Design

Macjanry Imperio SUPPLEMENTARY LAYOUT

Nikki Joy Habana

Contributing Writers

Paolo Nesi Chris Gallegos

Contributing Photographers

Martin San Diego Andie Duarte Syyap Leovic Arceta Nigel Ian Laxamana

ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE

Leah Egamino-PalaĂąa billing, credit & collection supervisor

Jennifer Codera

Expat Travel & Lifestyle Vol. 10 No. 2 Opinions expressed in this magazine are solely those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by Expat Communications.

Reproduction in whole or in part, whether articles, photos, advertisement features and such, are strictly prohibited in any way without the written consent from the publishers and editors. Expat Communications cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material or photographs. Although the editors and writers ascertain to the veracity of all information published, they are not responsible for its possible changes.

Subscriptions > Advertising > Inquiries T. (02) 840 2996 or 812 0987 F. (02) 840 2988 E. expatmag@gmail.com

10 | expat

Expat Travel & Lifestyle Philippines is published quarterly by Expat Communications, Inc. Main Headquarters Unit 207, Cattleya Condominium, 235 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City, Philippines Cebu Satellite Office M.J. Cuenco Ave. cor C. Mina St., Mabolo, Cebu City, Philippines Telfax: (032) 412 8000 Expat Travel & Lifestyle is a registered trademark of the Philippines. Copyright 2015.

All rights reserved.

The New Presidential Suite

THE ADDRESS OF PRESTIGE Come home to the iconic residence of the elite.

ONE RIZAL PARK, 0913, MANILA, PHILIPPINES WWW. MANILA-HOTEL.COM.PH

expat | 11

Editor’s Note

“When you buy from a small business, you’re not helping a CEO buy a third holiday home. You’re helping a little girl get dance lessons; a little boy his team jersey; moms and dads put food on the table. Shop local.”

That’s from one of those random chalkboard signs you usually find in front of cafés. And it is absolutely spot on. In a country like the Philippines – where inclusive economic growth has long been found wanting – it is a message that rings in even more truth, and stands as a call for people to not only Love Lokal, but to look for ways to do business better.

This conceptual economic paradigm shift is what the man on our cover, Bryan Benitez McClelland, had in mind when he founded Bambike—a socioecological enterprise that manufactures handcrafted bamboo bicycles while utilizing the talents of residents of a poor community in Victoria, Tarlac (p.98). Capitalizing on the human and natural capital of the local community while helping improve lives, Bambike has proven to be sustainable business that benefits people, planet and progress.

Love Lokal, succinctly, is about bringing to the fore local enterprises that look to inspire change. Be it with unique business models like Hope in a Bottle—a bottled water company that donates 100 percent of its profits to the building of public classrooms around the country (p.40); or Smokey Tours—immersion tours of the slums in Metro Manila that not only provide those who partake in it with a unique perspective of the Philippines beyond its shiny malls and white sand beaches, but also help the impoverished communities they visit (p.54).

But it’s not limited to those who have designed business models that change the lives of others, as there are instances when being able to channel personal creativity and passion into a sustainable livelihood reshapes the entrepreneur’s lives.

Much like those chalkboard signs that frequently catch our attention despite the absence of glitter and neon lights, there are a slew of local (often handcrafted) products that stand out with their blend of simplicity, uniqueness and sincerity. And in this Love Lokal issue, we put the spotlight on them.

From shoes and bags, to leather journals and toys; coffee and flowers, to allnatural cosmetics and local craft beer—Love Lokal looks to give a glimpse of the infinite local possibilities expats are certain to fancy.

Enjoy!

- The Expat Team

12 | expat

EDSA Shangri-La, Manila: An urban retreat In the heart of the busy concrete jungle that is Ortigas Center exists a tropical oasis that serves as an urban retreat for the weary traveler. Once a fictional paradise existing only on the pages of James Hilton’s 1930s novel Lost Horizon, Shangri-La became a reality to the community it belongs to, and has managed to consistently deliver top-notch hospitality service renowned the world over.

Tropical hideaways and tranquil retreats Delightfully calm and soothing, EDSA Shangri-La provides a haven for families, couples and explorers of all ages to relax, rejuvinate and discover. Take refuge in a tropical sanctuary without leaving the city that offers a private retreat. Apart from 631 plush and elegantly appointed guestrooms and suites, the hotel provides an array of engaging activities for children of all ages and even for the young at heart.

Cubs and Cubbies Kiddie Program On weekends, fun-filled kiddie activities abound with the dynamic Cubs and Cubbies program. Little ones will surely enjoy an array of “off-the-couch” activities, patterned from the goals and objectives

of being a scout. Kids aged 5 to 11 years old may participate in all or any of the Cubs Hangout training activities. The cubs can earn and collect badges for every task completed. A dedicated indoor playroom featuring a baby gym and amusing doodling activities is available for the toddlers or cubbies four years old and below.

Total wellness Find time to take a break from the monotony and stress of the daily grind with the Total Wellness program by The Health Club and CHI, The Spa. A first-of-itskind, the Health Club pioneers the “Move, Refuel and Recover” philosophy of holistic wellness, fusing state-of-the-art fitness programs with healthy food selections and the overall wellness expertise that CHI, The Spa is known for.

Horizon Club Guests are entitled to exclusive access to a private lounge, which includes additional privileges such as late check-out time until 4 p.m., daily buffet breakfast, high tea, cocktails and canapes. It also provides business travelers with high-speed Internet,

workstations, complimentary usage of any of the Horizon meeting rooms and secretarial services. Aside from being conveniently available 24 hours, the lounge offers a quiet escape high above at the 14th floor.

New culinary delights Together with the resort-inspired rooms and amenities, EDSA Shangri-La, Manila takes patrons on an epicurean journey that will surely captivate the palate with a new line of seasoned specialty chefs. Experience all their signature dishes in the newly revamped HEAT buffet restaurant; discover a tantalizing showcase of Chinese cuisine at the renowned, Summer Palace; bask in the artistic Japanese specialties that Senju has to offer; and savor the very best of Italian fare through Paparazzi’s delectable dishes with classic flavors.

To create your next Shangri-La story, please call (02) 633-8888 or email esl@shangri-la.com.

For more information, visit www.shangri-la.com/ manila/edsashangrila or stay connected by liking www.facebook.com/edsashangrila, and following @edsashangrila on Instagram.

expat | 13

CONTRI BUTORS

14 | expat

Chris Gallegos

Andie Duarte Syyap

Chris is a freelance photographer with a keen eye for beauty, fashion, portraits, and travel shots. He views photography as an expression of the mind, heart and spirit. Raised in a family of artists and mentored by one of the industry’s finest, Chris also draws inspiration from the works of Annie Leibovitz, Richard Avedon, Jose Villa, Chase Jarvis, Zack Arias, Lindsey Adler. He aspires to be in a constant state of mind of creating beauty the way it bears fit; art that flows as a feeling from within.

Andie was bitten by the shutter bug at the age of six, when – all on her own, and armed with her dad’s Canon DSLR – she joined an Easter-themed photo contest, and bagged first place in her age group. Today, this Spanish-Filipino teener pursues her passion for photography, with a keen eye for composition, color, and the interplay of shadow and light. Among her favorite subjects: seascapes, sunsets, food, people, and her Yorkie, Cookie. This issue of Expat, Andie captured moments at the Mangyan Village, at Stairway Foundation, and enjoyed photographing (and eating!) dishes at Frank and Dean, Pablo’s, and Neil’s Kitchen.

Nigel Ian Laxamana

Martin San Diego

A caffeine subordinate living thing, Nigel is a full time advertising photographer whose work has been featured in international magazines and in major advertising materials for some big-name brands.

Nigel was a TV host and a magazine editor, and currently sits as the managing photographer for Adphoto, the premier advertising photography studio in the Philippines. He photographs almost anything and travels almost anywhere. For this issue, Nigel captured photos of Dubai’s big photography events, HIPA and DPE.

Martin is a Computer Science graduate from De La Salle University that eventually found his way as a photojournalist. This young Green Archer yearns to explore the world one photography genre at a time – and everyone who has seen the works of this brilliant lensman would agree – photography would be a much better world should he get his wishes.

To view more of San Diego’s snaps, follow him on Instagram @martinsandiego.

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE Get to know the country you’re in from the people who know it best Get the heads up on where to be and places to see, where to eat, and everything else about the distinct Philippine beat All these and more, right at your fingertips

expat | 15

WHAT’S ON

WHAT’S ON Step into the scene zone and get the heads up on various events to fill your calendar with

theatre

1

Blue Man Group brings colors to Manila

Sept. 14 to 25; The Theatre at Solaire, Solaire Resort and Casino, 1 Aseana Avenue, Entertainment City, Paranaque; for more information, call (02) 891-9999 or visit www.ticketworld.com.ph Best known and recognized for the trio of bald and blue performers, Blue Man Group is a comedy, theatre, rock concert and dance party all rolled into one. Elements of the show include a combination of science, 16 | expat

comedy, music and vibrant visual effects— providing audiences with a fully immersive audiovisual experience complete with electrifying music, sensational technology, and signature interactive experiences. Over 35 million people across 15 countries have seen one of the various Blue Man Group productions from Broadway to West End, from Las Vegas to Tokyo – and now, it’s your turn!

“We are absolutely thrilled to be bringing the Blue Man Group World Tour to The Theatre at Solaire in Manila. The Manila audiences are so enthusiastic and vocal in their appreciation, I have no doubt that they will enjoy the season almost as much as we will enjoy presenting it!” said Nick Grade, co-producer of Blue Man Group.

Tickets are on sale at www.ticketworld. com.ph. Tickets are priced PhP5,600 for Splatter Zone; PhP5,000 for VIP; PhP4,400 for Zone A; PhP3,750 for Zone B; PhP2,300 for Zone C; PhP1,550 for Zone D; and PhP975 for Zone E.

2

Guest Experience: Maestro Alexander Vikulov

Sept. 17; Power Mac Center Spotlight, Level 2, Circuit Lane, Circuit Makati, A.P. Reyes Ave., Brgy. Carmona, Makati; tickets are available at www.ticketworld.com.ph; for more information, call (02) 891-9999 To celebrate the 90th year of Manila Symphony Orchestra, the Manila Symphony Concert Season Orchestra 2016-17 presents Guest Experience: Maestro Alexander Vikulov.

Tickets are priced at PhP1,306 for Patron; PhP888 for Gold; and PhP679 for Silver.

WHAT’S ON MUSIC

3

ANNIE

Sept. 30; Newport Performing Arts Theater, Resorts World Manila, 3rd Floor, Newport Mall, Pasay City; for more information, call (02) 908-8833 or visit www.rwmanila.com This September, Resorts World Manila presents its seventh major stage production—the beloved family musical ANNIE. After the first successful staging in the country in 1980 with international star Lea Salonga playing the title role, ANNIE promises to rekindle its love affair with older audiences and charm new generations with its inspirational story about a charismatic orphan’s optimistic outlook in life against all odds.

Playing the role of Annie are Krystal Brimner, 2015 Metro Manila Film Festival

best child actress winner for her role in the indie film “Honor Thy Father,” and Isabeli Araneta Elizalde, a newcomer hailing from one of the entertainment industry’s more prominent families, who both bested hundreds of other hopefuls auditioning for the role.

Joining the kids for the main roles are award-winning actor Michael De Mesa who will play the wealthy Oliver “Daddy” Warbucks, the first lady of Philippine theater Menchu Lauchengco-Yulo as Ms. Agatha Hannigan, Jill Pena as Secretary Grace Farrell, and Mako Alonso and Red Concepcion alternating as the conniving Daniel “Rooster” Hannigan.

Aug. 11; Smart Araneta Coliseum; for more information visit www.ticketnet.com.ph or call (02) 532-8883

Tickets are priced at PhP3,523 for SVIP; PhP3,082 for VIP; PhP2,422 for Gold; PhP1,651 for Silver; and PhP880 for Bronze. Tickets are available at all TicketWorld outlets. or call (02) 8919999.

Catch Rogers live as he performs some of his most popular hits like “The Gambler,” “Lucille,” “Coward of the Country,” “Ruby, Don’t Take Your Love to Town,” and many more.

In line with the 79th year celebration of Repertory Philippines, Repertory will be staging Hansel and Gretel – the Brothers Grimm classic about siblings that eat a witch’s candy house – as part of the theater company’s commitment in providing avenues for children to enjoy theater.

It’s a tale for the ages, with two kids outwitting a wicked witch in a house made up of cakes and other sweet treats.

This classic makes an appearance on our shores as Repertory Philippines and the city of Makati present Hansel and Gretel from Aug. 13 to Dec. 15, 2016.

4

Hansel & Gretel

Ongoing until Dec. 15; Onstage Theatre, 2nd Floor, Greenbelt, Paseo de Roxas St., Makati; for more information, call Ticketworld at (02) 891-9999 or Repertory Philippines at (02) 843-3570.

Repertory Philippines have tapped Joy Virata for their adaptation of Hansel and Gretel, based on the opera made by Englebert Humperdink.

Tickets are priced at PhP627 for Price Zone 1- Lower & Upper Orchestra (Center); PhP522 for Price Zone 2- Lower and Upper Orchestra (Left and Right); PhP418 for Price Zone 3- Balcony.

1

Kenny Rogers Final World Tour

Grammy Award-winning Kenny Rogers comes to Manila on Aug. 11for his “Final World Tour” with special guest Linda Davis.

Tickets are priced at PhP7,500 for Price Level 1; PhP6,500 for Price Level 2; PhP5,500 for Price Level 3; PhP4,500 for Price Level 4; PhP3,500 for Price Level 5; PhP2,500 for Price Level 6; and PhP1,000 for General Admission.

2

Charlie Puth Nine Track Mind Tour

Aug. 14; KIA Theatre, Araneta Center, Cubao, Quezon City; for more information, visit www.ticketnet.com.ph or call (02) 9115555 American singer/songwriter, Charlie Puth, heads to Manila for his first major show as part of his Nine Track Mind Tour. The Atlantic Records star wrote, co-produced, and was featured on the Wiz Khalifa jam, “See You Again,” which was included in the Furious 7 soundtrack as a tribute to the late Paul Walker.

Watch Puth as he takes the center stage with tunes that include “Marvin Gaye,” “One Call Away,” “Suffer” and many more. expat | 17

WHAT’S ON

Tickets are priced at PhP3,710 for Price Level 1 and Price Level 2; PhP2,650 for Price Level 3; PhP2,120 for Price Level 4; PhP848 for Price Level 5.

4

The Chainsmokers Live in Manila

Aug. 19; Mall of Asia Arena, Pasay City; Tickets are available at all SM Tickets outlets; visit www.smtickets.com or call (02) 470-2222 for ticket inquiries; for table reservations, call (02) 846-9450 American DJ duo, The Chainsmokers, are coming back to Manila for their first arena show in the country. Catch Alex Pall and Drew Taggart as they crank up their hit tunes like “Don’t Let Me Down,” “Roses,” “#Selfie,” and “Inside Out.”

3

In the Mix: The 1975, Panic! At The Disco, James Bay, Third Eye Blind, Elle King, Twin Pines

Aug. 18 at the Mall of Asia Arena; for more information, call (02) 470-2222 or visit www.smtickets.com MMI Live and Ovation Productions partner to bring a rocking night as they’re set to bring in six international acts with In The Mix. Delivering on their 2015 promise to come back and treat the country again with their synth-rock stylings, Manchester’s The 1975 headlines the group along with alternative rock band Third Eye Blind, Grammy-nominee Panic! At The Disco, 2016 Grammy-winner James Bay, Billboard Hot 100 artist Elle King, and Scottish indie rock band Twin Pines.

Tickets are priced at PhP13,250 for VIP Moshpit; PhP9,010 for VIP Standing 1; PhP7,950 for VIP Standing 2; PhP5,618 for Lower Box; PhP3,180 for Upper Box; and PhP1,060 for General Admission 18 | expat

With their first hit single “#Selfie,” The Chainsmokers’ fusion of self-obsessed vocal samples and bouncy beats resonated widely all over the globe. The song rose to number 55 on Billboard’s Hot 100 singles chart and to number seven on the magazine’s Dance/Mix Show Airplay chart.

Tickets are priced at PhP35,000 for VIP Tables for 5pax; PhP5,830 for VIP Standing; PhP4,770 for Lower Box A; and PhP3,180 for Lower Box B.

5

Urban Jam: Philippine Hip-Hop Music Festival

Aug. 27; Amoranto Stadium, Quezon City; for more information and updates, visit www.facebook.com/UrbanJamPhilippines or email randommindsproduction@gmail.com Get your vibe on as the celebration of local hip-hop culture promises to get everybody woke this August. Urban Jam: Philippine Hip-Hop Music Festival is set to be a legit gathering the country’s best and most influential hip-hop acts.

6

Against the Current: In Our Bones World Tour

Sept. 10; SM Skydome, SM North EDSA; Tickets are available at all TicketWorld outlets and SM Ticket outlets. For more information, call (02) 891-9999 and (02) 470-2222 Another global YouTube star will be showcasing their claim to fame in Manila as American pop rock trio, Against the Current comes back to the country as part of their In Our Bones World Tour.

The band consists of lead vocalist Chrissy Costanza, guitarist Dan Gow, and drummer Will Ferri. The group gained a massive YouTube following after posting their covers of popular songs by a variety of different artists. The group recently released its first full-length album, In Our Bones Tickets are priced at PhP4,404 for VIP (which includes a meet and greet); and PhP2,752 for Gold.

WHAT’S ON

7

Road to Ultra

Sept. 17; Mall of Asia Concert Grounds; for VIP tables and other inquiries, call (0908) 896-2718 or (0917) 552-9556; email info@ultraphilippines.com Road to Ultra, reknowned for its cutting-edge stage productions and world-class visuals, lighting and pyrotechnics, promises to set an eclectic and hypnotic backdrop to some of the biggest names in electronic music.

Road to Ultra has been previously headlined

by huge names like Tiesto, Hardwell, Martin Garrix, Alesso, Steve Angello, Above & Beyond, Afrojack, Fedde Le Grand, among others.

While the official line-up has yet to be released, tickets are already sold out for the Early Bird: Phase 1. Tickets are priced PhP5,000 for Premium General Admission (Early Bird: Phase 2) and PhP3,000 for General Admission (Early Bird: Phase 2).

Tickets are available at www.philippines. roadtoultra.com and at all SM Ticket outlets.

Following their successful Philippine concert last year, Grammy winner Pentatonix is coming back to Manila as part of their World.

Pentatonix, a popular a cappella outfit based in Arlington, Texas, is best known for their unique sound, which comprises of their sundry of self-shaped vocal arrangements, percussion and beatboxing.

This pioneering vocal quintet has risen from relative YouTube fame to worldwide recognition.

Don’t miss the chance to see Avi Kaplan, Scott Hoying, Kirstin Maldonado, Kevin Olusola, and Mitch Grassi perform their greatest hits like “Cheerleader,” “La la Latch,” and “If I Ever Fall in Love.”

8

Pentatonix World Tour

Sept. 24; SMART Araneta Coliseum, Cubao, Quezon City; tickets are available at all Ticketnet outlets

SPORTS ENTERTAINMENT 1

WWE Live Manila

Sept. 9; Mall of Asia Arena, Pasay City; Tickets are available at all SM Tickets outlets; visit www.smtickets.com or call (02) 470-2222 for more information Fans attending WWE Live Manila 2016 will be able to see their favorite Superstars including WWE World Heavyweight Champion Roman Reigns, WWE Tag Team Champions The New Day; WWE Women’s Champion Charlotte; Kane; AJ Styles;

9

Mayday Parade

Oct. 15; Samsung Hall, SM Aura Premier, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig; tickets are available at all SM Tickets outlets; for more information, visit www.smtickets.com or call (02) 470-2222 American worldwide pop-punk sensation, Mayday Parade returns to Manila this October. Sing your hearts out to their hits like “Miserable at Best,” “Terrible Things,” “Three Cheers for Five Years” and many more as Derek Sanders (lead vocalist), Alex Garcia (lead guitar), Brooks Betts (rhythm guitar), Jake Bundrick (drums), and Jeremy Lenzo (bass) perform live on Oct. 15.

Tickets are priced at PhP3,000 for VIP Pit and PhP2,000 for Balcony.

Tickets are priced at PhP8,000 for VIP; PhP6,000 for Patron A; PhP5,000 for Patron B; PhP3,500 for Lower Box; PhP1,750 for Upper Box; PhP800 for General Admission.

Kevin Owens; Sasha Banks; Tyler Breeze; Neville; Bo Dallas and Zack Ryder; and many more.

“WWE is excited to return to the Philippines, giving WWE’s passionate fans the chance to see their favorite superstars in an energetic, larger-than-life event, for the first time in seven years,” said Gerrit Meier, WWE International president.

Tickets are priced at PhP15,840 for CAT 1 Ring Side; PhP12,680 for CAT 2 Premium; PhP8,450 for Lower Box B; PhP6,340 for Lower Box C; PhP3,170 for Upper Box; and PhP1,580 for General Admission. expat | 19

WHAT’S ON WELLNESS

bazaar

1

Bazaar for all Seasons 2016

Oct. 14 to 16; Elements Tent Eton Centris, EDSA cor. Quezon Ave., Quezon City.

1

FLOW Yoga Travel Explore India

Sept. 22 to 29; Golden Triangle, India; for more information, email flowretreats@gmail. com or visit www.flowretreats.com Be with kindred spirits and embark on a rejuvenating six-day journey across India’s Golden Triangle – New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur as Flow Retreats takes you on a curated Indian holiday adventure that fuses together a unique yoga and travel experience.

Explore Old Delhi by foot, be awed and inspired by the beauty ot the Taj Mahal, wander through Jaipur’s walled city, palaces and monuments, shop your heart out legendary bazaars, sip authentic

chai tea and savor spices and flavors of Northern Indian cuisine and practice yoga in the land where it all began.

Flow’s Yoga Travel Explore India is inclusive of three yoga classes curated by Monica Eleazar-Manzano featuring Yin and Vinyasa Yoga; accommodations (double or triple sharing) and daily breakfast; airport transfers and transportation; Bazaar Walk through Old Delhi; Jaipur Tour in City Palace, Hawa Mahal, and Observatory; Agra Tour in Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri; and many more.

The Bazaar for All Seasons Team aims to provide the shoppers with an all-in venue for all their shopping needs, while giving entrepreneurs a chance to showcase their products.

BFAS manages to stay on top of the trends, go beyond the bazaar status quo, and attract the youngest and hippest crowd by maximizing the potential of online grassroots promotion via Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and various fashion blogs. Passionate trendsetters and fashionistas are sure to get a bang for their buck.

workshop

The package is priced at PhP42,000 until July 15 for the Early Bird rate and PhP45,000 until Aug. 31 for the Regular rate.

You can’t say you’ve surfed in the Philippines if you haven’t been to Siargao Island. Experience the ultimate surf and island lifestyle with Surfista Travels and Turtle Surf camp in Surfista Siargao Surf Camp 2016!

Experience the ultimate surf and island lifestyle and make memories with your new Surfista friends from all over the world.

Surfista Siargao Surf Camp 2016 is inclusive of guests pick up and drop off; 6 days and 5 nights accommodation with five surfer breakfasts; private instruction and five surf lessons; rental of surfing equipment; Magpupunko Rock Pools entrance; Island hopping at Naked, Guyam and Dako islands; exclusive Surfista Travels Philippines shirt, bag, and stickers; and many more.

2

Surfista Siargao Surf Camps 2016

Sept. 1 to 6 and 15 to 20; Oct. 6 to 11 and 20 to 25; Turtle Surf Camp, Siargao Island; for more information, visit www. surfistatravels.com or email surfistatravels@ gmail.com

20 | expat

Surfista Siargao Surf Tour package is priced at PhP23,000. To book, visit www. surfistatravels.com. A PhP7,000 nonrefundable reservation fee will be asked of you as soon as you send your Registration Form. Deadline for full payment is one month before your chosen camp date.

1

Acro for Life: Acroyoga Jams in LiFE Yoga BGC

Ongoing until Sept 11; Every Sundays from 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. at LiFE Yoga BGC and every Wednedays from 8 to 10 p.m. at the Ayala Triangle Park; for more information, visit their Facebook and Instagram page @acroyoga.manila Discover the joys of Acroyoga for free with Acro for Life: Acroyoga Jams. All are welcome to join the free jams happening every Sundays and Wednesdays.

Watch out for their themed online challenge for a chance to win raffle items from Acroyoga Manila sponsors every two weeks (Aug. 7, 21 and Sept.11). Winners must attend the AcroJams at LiFE Yoga to claim their prizes.

LOCA FOR LOCAL

We give you a platter (or woven basket) of what happens when Pinoy creativity, enterprise, ingenuity and passion commingle.

Be it handcrafted bags, journals, shoes, toys; all-natural cosmetics, flowers, coffee, or even just a bottle of water—there are tons of reasons to go Loca for Local, and you can get a glimpse of them in the following pages

expat | 21

LOCA FOR LOCAL

8 Mobile apps

to help you Live Local!

In a lot of ways, the Philippines is “more fun.” Similarly, though, it can also be plenty crazy. Check out these local apps that’ll help you make sense of the madness like a true Pinoy.

Text by Via Baroma and Timothy Jay Ibay

The app also comes with an MMDA FAQ feature that provides a list of various traffic rules and laws. u

Availabe on iOs and Android for free

Sakay.ph

By Implication

MMDA

UP ITDC While it doesn’t look like Metro Manila dwellers can find refuge from the exasperating traffic anytime soon, you can at least get a glimpse of just how bad it is before you hit the road.

With the MMDA app, you get up-todate overviews on the traffic situation (which include accidents, road works and closures) across the metro.

The MMDA app has three different view types: System, Map and Line View.

System and Map View outlines major roads, assigning colors to them according to the traffic situation; while Line View, gives the list of general thoroughfares and providing color-coded indicators for both lane directions.

If driving in the Philippines is an act reserved only for the most intrepid souls, just try commuting via public transpo.

Sakay.ph tries to help make sense of the chaos by providing commute routes for those who want to take on the daunting challenge of riding jeepneys, buses and trains in Metro Manila. It also comes with step-by-step transit directions; the estimated fares for each ride and the estimated time to get to one’s destination. u

Available on iOs and Android for free

Arko

DOST-NOAH In these parts, we might as well have only two seasons – hot as hell and drenched like the Titanic.

And while there’s nothing (beyond turning the AC way up) we can do to the unforgiving humidity in the country, we can at least save ourselves from being stranded in floodwater once typhoon season hits.

Arko, an on-the-go, informative and hassle-free app provides up-to-theminute remote monitoring updates on rainfalls and other weather conditions in all areas of the country. It also has a feature that allows the users to identify flood-prone areas (which are color-coded in red, yellow, and orange) and provide designated safe zone for evacuation.

This potentially life saving mobile app, which won the 2014 World Summit Award against 450 international mobile apps, was developed by Project NOAH and Pointwest Technologies. u

LawJuan Juan Juan

“Ignorance of the law excuses no one from compliance therewith,” says Article 3 of the Civil Code of the Philippines. If you believe that, get a handy compendium of relevant legislation, rules, and everything you need to know about the laws governing the Republic of the Philippines right in your pocket.

LawJuan app provides a collection of over 15,000 Philippine laws. Once installed, its contents can be accessed without having to go online.

There are also three free version of this app: Constitution, Rules of Court, and Jurisprudence. u

22 | expat

Available on iOs and Android for free

Available on iOS for PhP500

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Booky

TARA

Scrambled Eggs Pte Ltd Given Pinoys’ affinity with eating and smartphones, it was only a matter of time before an app came about that perfectly blends both passions. Made for food lovers by food lovers; Booky is a restaurant phonebook app that provides information on over 14,000 restaurants (including some 9,000 menus) in Metro Manila, Tagaytay and Baguio.

From contact details and directions, to the restaurants’ Instagram feeds and what they call “The Booky Report” (a blog that provides listings of the latest and top dining destinations based on engagement levels in the app), Booky is THE mobile solution to the incessant conundrum of figuring out where to eat.

There’s only one conceivable way this could be better – if it worked offline. Oh wait, they’ve taken care of that too! u

Available on iOS and Android for free

Artifactt

Michael Benedicto A must-have app for art aficionados, Artifact grants full access to everything you need to know about local art scene. Be it discovering a nearby art exhibit, browsing for past, current and upcoming art shows, or knowing more about a local artists, Artifact features it all.

Artifact, a local art guide app, also comes with an access to gallery back rooms and information about available artworks. u

Available on iOS for free

Galileo Software Services Inc. It’s an unfortunate fact that mobile phones are common targets of petty thieves in this country.

TARA (Theft Alarm & Recovery App) tries to help avoid the hassle of losing valuable data stored in your phones.

While most anti-mobile phone theft apps require Internet connection (and sometimes even the activation of location services), TARA does away with all of that because no thief is stupid enough to leave any of those on after swiping a smartphone.

After downloading and registering to TARA, users will receive an eight-digit PIN. In case of phone theft (or simply a misplaced phone), simply text LOCK (space) PHONE NUMBER (space) eightdigit PIN and send to 5161.

In Shopping, the app provides information on the best stalls, bazaars and malls that you can visit to shop for must-haves and souvenirs. The Food category provides tips on the best places to eat for authentic Filipino cuisines. When it comes to Culture, the app lets you know more about the life in the Philippines through its rich history and colorful traditions. Talk Pinoy teaches common word and phrases in the local language. And lastly, Fun in 24H is a bucket list guide of the things to do and places to see to make your stay more fun, all in 24 hours. u

Available on iOs for free

The app will immediately lock the phone and activate an alarm that screams the words “Magnanakaw!” (Thief!), which will still be activated even if the phone is on silent, turned off, or even replaced with a new SIM card.

Users can activate TARA for PhP15 for a week; PhP50 for a month; and PhP500 a year for SMART, SUN Cellular, and Talk N’ Text subscribers. u

Available on Android for free

More Fun PH

Philippine Department of Tourism Along with its campaign “It’s More Fun in the Philippines,” the Department of Tourism makes it easier to experience the fun with an app that provides travelers the ultimate pocket guide to the top destinations in the Philippines.

Have your own local guide in your pocket with More Fun PH, which features different categories: Shopping, Food, Culture, Talk Pinoy, and Fun in 24H.

expat | 23

LOCA FOR LOCAL

PinoyTravel The smarter way to travel Discover more of the Philippines with the country’s first online bus ticket booking service Text by Ching Dee

When Au Soriano was diagnosed with cancer in 2004, she told herself, “I am not going to leave this world not having done something good for the greater mass.”

Born in Bauang, La Union, Soriano knows full well the grueling ordeal of having to travel by land for hours via provincial buses. Add to that the stress of traveling with six siblings and her parents.

“Our town didn’t have a bus terminal, so we would wait by the roadside hoping for a bus to pass by with nine seats available.

I remember there were times when we had to go back to home because we could not get seats,” she recalled.

When she was finally earning a living for herself as a business development manager for major telecommunications companies, she was no longer confined to land transportation, but that didn’t mean she was immune to the daily struggle of commuters.

“I noticed that people were still traveling the same way, which baffled me because 24 | expat

those people had smartphones and tablets in their hands...I just came from abroad where I took a long distance bus ride, which I booked online, and it hit me—the Philippine market should be doing that too.”

In late 2012, Soriano submitted her ideas for an online bus reservation system to IdeaSpace Incubation Program, a competition for start-up ideas. She told Expat, “Out of 700 plus teams, [only] 10 won and we’re one of them. We got funding to launch the service.”

And with that, PinoyTravel, the very first online bus and ferry ticket reservation portal, was born.

How it works Using PinoyTravel is a breeze. In fact, Expat used PinoyTravel to book bus tickets going to Cagayan for the Palaui travel feature (read all about it on p.58).

While most of their partners are bus companies, ferry tickets are also available via PinoyTravel.

There are two ways to make reservations through PinoyTravel: (1) via their website (www.pinoytravel.com.ph) or (2) via the PinoyTravel smartphone app (downloadable through their website; available on the Google Play Store for Android devices).

Just like searching for a flight online, you can request a booking through the app or website. Just choose your point of origin and destination, enter your trip date, then press “Search.” It will automatically generate a list of available bus lines plying that route, including the timetable, trip hours (length of travel), and amount.

After selecting your chosen bus schedule, you will be asked to register or enter your personal details. This ensures that they can contact you when your tickets are ready or if there are changes in the schedule.

Processing the booking request takes 24 to 48 hours. Once your booking request is approved, they will send you the payment details, which you can settle through bank transactions, an ATM, or participating convenience stores. When your payment is received, your booking is confirmed!

Pro-Tip: Print out the voucher they’ll send via email and make sure you’re at the bus terminal (or ferry terminal) at least one hour before departure time. There are dedicated PinoyTravel booths to assist you at the terminal.

PinoyTravel also helps travelers by suggesting alternate routes. Just enter your point of origin, destination, and trip date, then instead of clicking “Search,” choose “Show More Routes.”

LOCA FOR LOCAL

What’s next?

Barely four years after Soriano sent her pitch to IdeaSpace, PinoyTravel now has 20 bus companies and two ferry operators as their official partners. While that may seem like excellent progress, considering that most companies weren’t exactly thrilled with the idea of online booking just a few years ago, Soriano is bent on taking PinoyTravel a step further.

“Today’ [we’ve] only signed up 20 out of the 120 bus companies and two out of 50 ferry companies, so more to go!” she beamed. “[We’re] relaunching real-time booking soon, where passengers can see the [seat] plan and be able to choose the seats,” she explained.

12 years after she made a promise to herself not to leave the world without doing something good for the public, Soriano and her PinoyTravel Team is making it easier for people to explore the Philippines and connect with their loved ones—one online booking at a time.

expat | 25

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Human Nature

Nature’s bounty, natural beauty

The evolution of local all-natural cosmetics, thanks to Human Nature Text and photos by Ching Dee

When it comes to all-natural beauty products and top-of-the-line innovations in environment-friendly cosmetics, none other than Human Nature has taken the country by storm since its conception in 2007.

Daughter of renowned NGO Gawad Kalinga founder Tony Meloto, Anna Meloto-Wilk founded the “Pro-Philippines, Pro-Poor, Pro-Environment” company with her husband Dylan, a British national, and her sister Camille.

When asked about the company name, Anna shared with Expat, “My sister and co-founder, Camille Meloto, came up with that name (Human <3 Nature). She was inspired by the ‘I love New York’ souvenirs. It basically means if we humans love and look after nature, the earth will provide everything that we need in abundance. It is a reciprocal relationship.”

(top)Human Nature founder Anna Meloto-Wilk at their flagship store in Commonwealth, Quezon City; (above)All-natural Daily Hair Treatment; (right)Various spreads from First Harvest, a partner company of Human Nature and Gawad Kalinga

26 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

In any and all of our challenges, we just persevered and kept our mission in mind, which is to use our God-given talents to urgently and sustainably build a global company which will showcase the best of the Philippines and uplift all our people, especially the poor, [by] providing affordable, quality, natural products”

Breaking into an industry filled with established international brands was a daunting task, but Anna and her team does not have the word ‘quit’ in their vocabulary.

Recalled Anna, “In any and all of our challenges, we just persevered and kept our mission in mind, which is to use our Godgiven talents to urgently and sustainably build a global company which will showcase the best of the Philippines and uplift all our people, especially the poor, [by] providing affordable, quality, natural products. Quitting is not an option when you have hundreds of people depending on you.”

Many Human Nature products are certified natural by the American Natural Products Association (NPA), which means the products are at least 95 percent natural and absolutely [free] of harmful chemicals such as parabens, phthalates, and mineral oil. Their best-sellers include their Sunflower Beauty Oil, Natural Feminine Wash, Balancing Facial Wash, Bug Shield, and any of their shampoos—yes, even their pet shampoo!

Human Nature also takes environment-friendliness to a whole different level. Aside from making sure their products are made of natural ingredients, they also ensure it brings no harm to the environment when used. For example, they do not use microbeads and they produce the first reef-friendly sunblock, which doesn’t poison sealife and does not contribute to coral bleaching. Recently, they’ve also launched a new delivery system using Bambikes (bamboo bikes—it’s on our cover!), which produce no carbon emission and doesn’t contribute to the worsening traffic of Metro Manila.

After nearly a decade, Human Nature has championed several causes, which includes partnering with Gawad Kalinga in building 122 houses for the victims of Typhoon ‘Haiyan;’ raising funds for 50 scholars of the School for Experiential and Entrepreneurial Development (SEED), a program for poor but driven high school graduates who dream of reviving agriculture through sustainable farming enterprises; and ‘Kusina ng Kalinga,’ where their employees regularly volunteer to cook and provide nutritious meals to public schools where most students are considered malnourished.

True enough, in every Human Nature product, the brilliance, industriousness, commitment, creativity and community spirit of the Filipino is highlighted.

For more information on the products and advocacies of Human Nature, visit their website at www.humanheartnature.com.

(top left)various artisanal spreads from Theo+Philo, makers of chocolate products using locally harvested cacao; (top right)Rose Hip Oil is one of Human Nature’s top selling items, a product of their own research and development team; (left)Anna’s favorite items are a staple in her beauty kit and home; (above)Loyal customers of Human Nature swear by the illustrious effects of their bestselling Sunflower Beauty Oil

expat | 27

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Bo’s Coffee Homegrown brew with a cause

Text and photos by Ching Dee / Additional photos courtesy of Bo’s Coffee

A bright-eyed law student back in 1992, Steve Benitez decided he wanted to see the world, and so he did. It was through his travels that he came upon the idea of starting his own coffee shop. Wanting to bring better quality beverages to the Philippines, Benitez opened the first branch of Bo’s Coffee in his hometown, Cebu City, in June 1996. He named it after a coffee roaster he met who encouraged him to pursue his dreams.

For Steve Benitez, Bo’s Coffee is more than just a coffee shop or a business - it is a platform to showcase unique Filipino artistry, ingenuity, and culture

“I saw potential growth in the market and it was something I really wanted to do,” Benitez told Expat. “So, I didn’t get to finish my law degree. I focused on growing the business.”

Locally harvested single origin coffee beans are also available for purchase at all branches of Bo’s Coffee

28 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

I believe in sustainability. We are looking for communities that we can teach how to fish so they can support themselves and [improve the quality of their life] in the long run…I’ve always thought that Bo’s Coffee is a platform to showcase and share our success with others”

But like many endeavors worth pursuing, it did not come easy for Benitez. In fact, he described the first six months of Bo’s Coffee as “a disaster.”

“There was a point when I was just giving out coffee for free, just so people could taste the difference,” he recalled. “I was losing money, but that was when I realized that it wasn’t just a business for me.”

In choosing their suppliers and partners, Benitez and his team ensures that they share the same vision, help out the community by promoting their culture, and give back by encouraging sustainable production practices.

“I don’t believe in charity,” says Benitez. “I believe in sustainability.

We are looking for communities that we can teach how to fish so they can support themselves and [improve the quality of their life] in the long run…I’ve always thought that Bo’s Coffee is a platform to showcase and share our success with others.”

Fast forward to today, Bo’s Coffee now has 80 stores nationwide (and counting) and they are celebrating their 20th anniversary in the industry this year—going strong as the homegrown coffee they serve. Entering the industry dominated by huge multinational coffee chains was a challenge as well, especially when they opened their first Manila branch in 2003. But for Benitez, “the presence of competition pushed [them] to succeed.”

What sets Bo’s Coffee apart from the rest of the pack is their unique coffee blends and single origins come only from the Philippines. They serve brews from coffee beans, cacao, and tea harvested from Benguet, Mountain Province and Mindanao. Apart from promoting homegrown brews, Bo’s Coffee also partners with several small businesses to endorse locally made quality products like waxed leather bags, handmade mugs made from volcanic ash, handcrafted journals made from fried waterlily leaves, and artisanal chocolates.

Enjoy your homegrown brew with various pastries and cakes made daily Beat the heat with Bo’s Coffee’s signature homegrown iced drinks and frapuccinos

expat | 29

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Island Rose

Language of love

How the Andaya brothers elevated the country’s floral industry through Island Rose Photos and Text by Ching Dee / Additional photos courtesy of Island Rose

It was Armando Andaya who changed the landscape of the country’s horticulture industry. In many aspects, he is considered as the country pioneer of the industry—literally starting the production of roses for commercial use and openly experimenting with different techniques and the latest technologies. It was also he who established the Philippine Cut-Flower Corporation (PCFC) in 1983.

There’s nothing like the smile on your loved one’s face when you give them the best. Island Rose harvests nature’s beauty to make a meaningful statement that words can’t even describe

In 2000, Armando’s son, Dustin, proposed that their company should go online—a significant leap considering how primitive the Philippine Internet was like roughly 16 years ago—and with that decision, Island Rose was born. And it was one of the best risks they ever took.

Island Rose is the online store of PCFC. Today, Dustin is the CEO while his brother Arnold is in charge of operations in their stateof-the-art, 5.5-hectare flower farm in Alfonso, Cavite.

30 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Brothers Arnold (left) and Dustin Andaya in one of the greenhouses at the Island Rose Farm in Alfonso, Cavite

“The act of giving flowers and gifts always enhances one’s message,” Dustin told Expat. “Whether it’s for a celebration, a way of showing sympathy, or sending a message of love…It’s different when you buy something for yourself [compared to] when you want to make someone feel good.”

What started as an online ordering platform is now considered to be one of the most successful e-commerce ventures in the country today. Island Rose now delivers to any point of the Philippines and even abroad. Aside from catering to individual customers, Island Rose also provides blooms to luxury hotels and establishments around the country.

This year, Island Rose turns sweet 16. And for this new year, Dustin and Arnold promises an even stronger and more dedicated business. “We are more organized and we try really hard [to please the customers] but at the same time we make sure we temper their expectations,” Dustin said.

“We try our best to keep track and invest in the latest technologies if we believe it will improve the quality and quantity of our yield,” Arnold shared, emphasizing their dedication to environmentally sound farming practices, like responsible land use to lessen their carbon footprint and proper irrigation techniques to avoid

contaminating the soil.

Today, Island Rose offers and grows 12 to 15 varieties of roses and has several partner farms who share their vision. They also have a dedicated greenhouse for research and development to keep abreast with new techniques and to test new varieties flown in from abroad before introducing them to the market.

Apart from gorgeous roses, stunning floral arrangements, and various specially made gift items (like artisanal chocolates, handmade candles, jewelry and accessories, and teddy bears), Island Rose also takes pride in their competent and compassionate customer service team.

“We are very passionate at what we do because most of the time we deal with relationships…If we don’t do our job well, then we shouldn’t earn off it,” said Dustin.

So, the next time you have something meaningful to say, say it best with Island Rose.

For more information about PCFC and Island Rose, visit www. islandrose.net

expat | 31

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Shoes by Kai Cultural Movement Text by Via Baroma

32 | expat

A passion for creativity and the advocacy to promote local culture gave birth to the unique artisan and handcrafted footwear known as Shoes by Kai. Proprietor Sheryll Gempis, a self-confessed “head over heels shoe lover,” seeks to bring awareness to the dying tradition of hand-made shoes whilst preserving local culture by infusing distinct Filipino elements in their products.

“Every SbK pair is exceptionally unique and limited,” Gempis says.

“There is no assurance that the shoe will be replicated again because weavers do not have a pattern they follow. They just use the available threads and SbK makes whatever design comes to mind out of the fabrics. At SbK, culture provides the inspiration and creativity.”

With so many threads, colors and shades that could be turned into trendy textiles, SbK produces unique, durable, chic and comfortable footwear, while allowing patrons to wear a bit of tradition on their feet.

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

At SbK, culture provides the inspiration and creativity”

“Even without modern machinery, we have the creativity and skill to produce world-class quality footwear,” says Gempis. “Our point is that the quality of traditional shoe-making can be tapped to create modern, fashion-forward shoes, while retaining its classic durability and wearability. Learn to love and support local products and ventures, and get to know more about the richness of our Filipino culture.”

Shoes by Kai is available at Cinderella, Robinsons Place Manila; Spectrum Lifestyle Store, Commerce Center Alabang; and Tesoros Philippine Handicrafts, Antonio Arnaiz Ave., Makati

expat | 33

LOCA FOR LOCAL

The Lost Nomad Form and Function Text by Via Baroma / Photos courtesy of The Lost Nomad Lookbook

Inspired to represent the modern day nomad, The Lost Nomad proves that travelers and adventure seekers need not sacrifice style when surrendering to wanderlust. Their quality travel bags are a beautiful synthesis of style and function, while also representing a cultural celebration of the world and all its diversity, with elements such as the colors of Morocco, the prints and patterns of Cambodia, and the travel lifestyle of London and Spain found in their collections.

“Apart from making nice things, we wanted to showcase Filipino craftsmanship and how the quality is world class,” Ayla Gomez, one half of the brain thrust behind The Lost Nomad, tells Expat.

“We also want the market to think of The Lost Nomad as the goto brand when looking for travel essentials that will help make their trip more convenient, and at the same time, also looks good and reflects who they are as individuals.”

34 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

Apart from making nice things, we wanted to showcase Filipino craftsmanship and how the quality is world class”

TLN formally started in 2012, with the same commitment to bringing more options and personality when it comes to travel bags. Since then, TLN has come to represent the modern day nomad – active souls that might be corporate world titans during the workweek, yet transmogrify as full on surfers on the weekends.

“The Filipino people are so complex and multi-talented, that many of us today are doing multiple things and doing them well. Our bags represent just that.

They can be used for the different aspects in a persons life, be it for a student with his school books in the morning to travel photographer and blogger come afternoon,” adds Gomez.

The Lost Nomad is available at Common Thread, Greenbelt 5, Makati; Common Thread, PowerPlant Mall, Rockwell; Easy Skate-Surf, Brixton St., Kapitolyo, Pasig; Restock, Guijo St., Makati; Megafash, 112 Katong, Singapore; and Lolo Banana, El Nido Town, Palawan, and online at www.thelostnomad.com.ph

expat | 35

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Alunsina Handbound Books Native Hand Text by Via Baroma

Whether you’ve been longing to start a journal or looking for inspiration to get back to writing, you’ll certainly be lovestruck with these one of a kind handmade journals that are just too charming not to own!

In the face of the touchscreen age, Alunsina Handbound Books seeks to revive people’s interest in writing through these beautiful coptic-bound books, handcrafted leather journals and accessories.

“Alunsina was born out of my journal hoarding hobby that started since I was a kid.

When I began working and didn’t have extra money to support my ‘addiction,’ I decided to teach myself how to make my own journals,” Nanja Castillo of Alunsina tells Expat.

Each Alunsina journal has its own unique and distinct personality, meaning no two Alunsina journals are exactly alike.

36 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

Each Alunsina journal has its own unique and distinct personality, meaning no two Alunsina journals are exactly alike”

“Because we do everything by hand, there are slight variations in the cuts and stitching compared with mass manufactured products.

We also personalize the journals either by embossing names or initials on the cover, or burning/soldering them through pyrography,” Castillo explains.

Apart from leather journals and books, Alunsina also produces hand-carved wooden books and accessories like mini-journal necklaces and bracelets (made with leather scraps left from the manufacturing of their other products).

Alunsina Handbound Books are available at the Manila Collectible Co., Cabildo cor.

Beaterio, Intramuros, Manila (Behind Manila Cathedral); CraftMNL, Unit 302 Pamana Language Bldg., 926 Arnaiz Avenue, Makati; AC+632, Greenbelt 5, Makati; FIRMA, Greenbelt 3; Antiteasis: Books and Brews, Maginhawa St., UP Village, Quezon City; Common Room, Katipunan Avenue, Quezon City; and Mountain Cloud Bookshop, Baguio.

For shipping (local and international), email alunsinahandboundbooks@gmail.com

expat | 37

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Plush and Play Playing it forward Text by Via Baroma

38 | expat

“Why Filipinos aren’t playing with Filipino toys embodying Filipino stories and values” was the simple question that pushed Fabien Courteille, a French entrepreneur, to produce the first Filipino inspired stuffed toys (or plush toys) here in the Philippines.

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

We started thinking this is a good reason to start a company: bringing our business and design skills to partner with the sewing skills of the mothers, and provide them a sustainable source of income” Starting as a Gawad Kalinga intern, Courteille saw the potential in producing toys hand-stitched by skilled and hardworking women from Bulacan. The vision provided a sustainable livelihood for the women’s families and birthed Plush and Play.

“We started thinking this is a good reason to start a company: bringing our business and design skills to partner with the sewing skills of the mothers, and provide them a sustainable source of income,” Courteille tells Expat.

“We now have more than 50 mothers involved in the company. But you will never see more than five or six of them at the same time in the workshop because 75 percent of the job can actually be done inside their houses.”

These cute and huggable Philippine-made plushies are playing a part in the battle against poverty, while also setting new standards in the local toy industry regarding safety, social and environmental impacts.

“Eventually, we are aiming to use indigenous fabric and natural fibers for our products to deepen the connection with the Filipino traditions,” adds Courteille.

(top left) Plush and Play is the first Filipino inspired stuffed toy to be sold in Toy Kingdom, starting with SM Megamall branch last October 2015; (top right) The mothers from Enchanted Farm with their Plushies; (above) Courteille with local TV presenter Gretchen Ho

Plush and Play is available at Gawad Kalinga Enchanted Farm, Pandi-Angat Rd, Angat, Bulacan; Toy Kingdom SM Megamall, Mandaluyong; and online through websites like www.takatack.ph and www.ava.ph. For more information, visit www.plushandplay.com

expat | 39

LOCA FOR LOCAL

Purchasing Power

Redefined

Read up on how Hope in a Bottle allows you to Love Lokal and make a difference with your peso

Text by Timothy Jay Ibay / Photos courtesy of HOPE

A re-imagination of how a company should conduct business; an advocacy to inspire a sea of change through daily actions; a movement to light the future of the youth with Hope – one bottle at a time.

“Friends of Hope founder, Nanette Medved-Po, was inspired both by the strengths of the private sector and the challenges of the non-profit sector, and imagined that a hybrid “B Company” might create enough discipline and profitability to scale and address some of society’s truly important issues,” Alexi Bautista, marketing manager of Hope tells Expat of the mindset that birthed Hope in a Bottle.

“In this case, her focus was education in general, but classrooms in particular. Classrooms because they were an easy proposition that everyone across the demographic spectrum could understand. This tangible result would come out of an easy fund raising mechanism – 100 percent of bottled water profits.

Hope would allow Filipinos to cast their vote – with their peso – about what is important to them. In a country like the Philippines, which brought the world People Power, it shouldn’t be too much of a stretch to envision the country rallying behind a project to democratize a solution to empower our nation’s youth.”

40 | expat

LOCA FOR LOCAL

“

We’re not a charity. We’re a business. The only difference is that when you buy Hope water, we commit 100 percent of our profits to nation building, to building classrooms in public schools that need them most” And in just a little over four years, choosing (and giving) Hope has proven to be a movement people are more than be willing to be part of as exhibited by over 30 classrooms Hope and their retail partners have been able to build stemming from more than seven million bottles the company has sold.

The inspiring venture isn’t exactly groundbreaking, as similar ones like Product Red (a licensed brand that seeks to engage the private sector in raising both awareness and funds to help combat HIV/AIDS in Africa) influenced the Hope model. But in a country where some 88 percent of students attend public schools, addressing the lack of conducive centers for learning need not come from a trailblazing idea as the sentiment (and the results) are revolutionary in itself.

“Hope usually decides jointly with the Department of Education (DepEd) and our retailers where to build the classrooms,” explains Bautista of the process in deciding where to give Hope.

The HOPE Team and their ambassadors at the turnover ceremony in Emilio Jacinto Elementary School.

expat | 41

LOCA FOR LOCAL

(left)The Starbucks Team at the dedication of Cahilsot Elementary School, their very first Hope classroom (below)The children of Emilio Jacinto Elementary School are all smiles with their new classroom

“

Together, we can change our world in what we say, in what we do – and in what we buy. We can choose to make a difference. We can choose to take a stand. We can choose HOPE”

“DepEd has a list of locations that have both the lack of classrooms, as well as available land to build, while partner retailers might have a preference as to where they would like to build their classrooms based on the list.”

Hope’s latest six classrooms are being built for more than 300 students who had been holding classes under a shed at the extension unit of the General Santos City National Secondary School for the Arts and Trade in Mindanao.

Beyond the many young lives Hope has touched, the company’s efforts have also been recognized globally.

Last October, the 2015 Global Bottled Water Awards in Lisbon, Portugal honored Hope with the “Best New Brand Award” along with the “Best Community Initiative Award.”

“To have an international panel select our effort out of the many very worthy initiatives that have been nominated, honors both the Philippines and the work we do at Hope,” said Medved-Po. “Together, we can change our world in what we say, in what we do – and in what we buy. We can choose to make a difference. We can choose to take a stand. We can choose HOPE.” To learn more and to find out where you can get Hope, visit www.generationhope.ph

42 | expat

LOCAL SHORES Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all a matter of perspective as Expat contributor Chris Gallegos takes experiencing the tropical paradise known as the Caramoan Islands to a new high; dive deep into the colorful and fiery Filipino spirit embodied by Quezon; while we give you a glimpse into the opposite ends of the spectrum with the stunning panorama of far-flung Northern Luzon gem Palaui Island, and the mindset shifting urban poor immersion brought by Smokey Tours

expat | 43

LOCAL SHORES

Elevating the

Caramoan experience

Camera in tow, Expat contributor Chris Gallegos offers a different take on the renowned slice of paradise Text and photos by Chris Gallegos

Caramoan, a place fancied by many, thanks in part to hit reality TV show Survivor, which spent several seasons filming in one of its pristine islands. For the uninitiated, the group of islands known as Caramoan is an amazing, picturesque place worth the long travel (if by land and sea) south of Luzon in Camarines Sur, Bicol. With itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful beaches, dive spots, and cliffjumping areas, one could spend days either lounging at one of its gamut of beaches or exploring the slew of adventures there for the taking.

However, this is a story not about its powdery white sand beaches or any of the aqueous transmissions you can partake in. This adventure happens way above the turquoise waters, but one that nevertheless deserves to be cherished, relived and passed on.

44 | expat

LOCAL SHORES

expat | 45

LOCAL SHORES

Gota life This is about a place called Gota Village Resort in Caramoan. It requires a long and grueling bus (eight to nine hours) ride from Manila to Sabang Port in Camarines Sur; an hour boat ride to Guijalo Port in Caramoan; and a 30-minute shuttle trip to reach the wonderfully laid out resort.

The cabanas had a uninformed look and were equipped with air conditioning, hot and cold showers, cable televisions, and mini-refrigerators. Although we did not skip on the requisite island hopping and beach lounging, what struck our fancy most was the 175-foot rappel down Gota’s own mountain – Mt. Makapuling.

When we arrived at the island, it was raining hard and it looked like it would continue to do so for the next couple of days. We took the chance to schedule the rappel experience the day after we arrived despite the less than ideal weather. We organized our plans with the head instructor Mr. Sung and his associates Mr. Rogen and Mr. Leonel, all of whom are rock-climbing instructors of the resort.

The next day, we were sure that it would be raining or at least drizzling due to the torrential rains that persisted while we slept, but lo and behold, the sun, with all of its might, was shining at its brightest when day broke.

We started our activity at around eight in the morning following our hearty breakfast.

The trek to the drop-off point at the top of the mountain from Gota Village Resort took a very intense 35 minutes. (Tip: Be sure to train lunges weeks before your trip, you will surely need it or else it would take you longer to reach the top) Views from the top With no view but trees, we followed our instructors through the jagged trails beneath centuries-old canopy. By the time we reached the drop-off point, we were already soaking wet from the humidity, the heat of the sun, and the full-on workout brought about by the trek. But it was all worth it! The view and experience from the top of the mountain was irreplaceable. We could see the Caramoan Islands, stretches 46 | expat

Gota Village Resort’s charming cabins afford its guests with all the amenities you could want in a pristine tropical paradise – air conditioning, TV, fridge, nice shower and a comfortable queen size bed

of beaches, farmlands, and our resort.

The breath of fresh air, the strong winds on our faces and captivating views easily rejuvenated our tired legs and weary lungs.

We soaked it all in for the next 20 minutes or so, and after enjoying the fruits of our labor, it was time for the next part of the adventure.

LOCAL SHORES SPOTTING > Carmoan

Our head instructor Mr. Sung, advised us to gear up for our descent down the sharpedged mountain face. Mr. Leonel was the first to descend the 175-foot drop and operated as the belay guy while Mr. Sung descended a couple of meters down as our guide.

Because I wanted to document the rappelling experience with my camera, I asked the rock climbing team if I could take a photograph of them rappelling down while I’m hanging horizontally facing down the rock face. It was an odd mix of fear and excitement as it is something only professional climbers would dare attempt.

They strapped me in two harnesses and other gears around my pelvic area chest to ensure I will be able to balanced myself as I leaned further into a horizontal position on the side of the mountain. I locked my knees and leaned face-forward slowly and carefully with two cameras dangling in front of me as I strategically balanced my gear and myself to avoid any misfortune.

I asked Mr. Leonel to rappel down and do some jumps, as he was my main subject, with Gota Village Resort as the background. After getting the shot, I slowly

(Above)The author taking a few snaps while dangling 175 feet above ground; the things people do for the ‘money shot’

got back to a safe position and the team then rearranged the gear wrapped around me so I could proceed down the 175-foot drop. We did some jumps together with the instructors while taking photographs of the amazing scenery.

Experiencing the Caramoan Islands requires an innate lust for adventure. And while the islands’ beaches and marine activities will always be Caramoan’s calling card, I highly recommend breathing in its beauty from a different (elevated) perspective.

For more information about the Caramoan Islands and Gota Village Resort, visit www.facebook.com/Gota-Village-ResortCaramoan-Island-345532245528221 expat | 47

LOCAL SHORES

the Quintessential

Fiestas, food, fun, and a whole lot of fiery fervor make the province of Quezon a fine representation of Filipino spirit Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Macjanry Imperio

48 | expat

LOCAL SHORES

Quezon province in the Calabarzon Region of Luzon Island, southeast of Manila, was once favored by Spanish colonizers for its inherent allure: lush, natural terrain coupled with the warmth of its locals proved an irresistible combination. So favored was this bountiful, beautiful province that the Spaniards named Tayabas, the former capital of Quezon, “The Most Noble Villa of Spain.”

Stretching the length of four districts, majority of which lie on coast lines and are bounded by mountains, Quezon offers everything from surfing and water sports, to hiking and trekking. Cultural nuances from city to city and town to town across each district make for heirloom cuisine that is as varied as it is delectable. The same variances in tradition make for a wealth of rich and engaging social customs, some of which are, sadly, near bygones in this modernized day and age.

By gracious invitation of Quezon’s dynamic and super hospitable Provincial Tourism Office, and under the expert tutelage of

THE tour guide of tour guides, Tina Decal (herself a proud Quezonian), we embarked on a four-day road trip which took us from end to end of this enchanting province. It was a journey of discovery and learning, as well as an unforgettable sensory indulgence.

Whitecaps and blue water There is no shortage of beaches throughout Quezon, as a good number of its cities and municipalities are located along the seashore. In fact, 34 of 39 municipalities, along with two cities, are seaside locales.

This means that – in Quezon – surf’s always up, somewhere!

Perhaps among the more popular surf spots are those found in Real, especially in the barangay (village) of Tignoan. Surf camps such as The Pacific Recreation Kamp (more commonly known as The PaRK) offer guided beginner’s courses and surfboard rentals at highly competitive rates. While a group from the media team tested out their sea legs and core strength, I – a tad under the weather – chose to walk the stretch of beach in search of pretty volcanic stones.

expat | 49

LOCAL SHORES

1

5

A beautiful river runs from the nearby mountains to the sea; which, although idyllic-looking enough, boasts formidable enough currents, and a heaping ounce of caution is needed when crossing or wading in its waters.

Though accommodations are aplenty in Real, we were billeted for the night at the Blue Pavilion Beach Resort, to get a feel of neighboring Infanta. A beachfront barbeque dinner under starlit skies proved a great ending to a day packed with fun-in-the-sun (despite some passing rain showers). We were feted to a sumptuous buffet of assorted seafood and meat, grilled or binangi (Quezon-style BBQ) to perfection, and accompanied by several rounds of some of the region’s finest lambanog (80 to 90 percent ABV local wines), such as sasa (fermented sap from the nipa flower stem) and tuba (fermented coconut sap). Later on in the trip, Tina passionately demonstrated the Tagayan ritual or drinking rites of gentility, the origins of which are a far cry from today’s less genteel drinking habits Mountain mystique While Quezon has long been recognized for its verdant mountainous territories and its green thicket-covered rolling hills, it is only in recent years that the extent of such wealth is truly being explored.

The mountains hold many mysteries, most of which lie in the indigenous herbs and plants, even the common weeds, which grow in profusion, thanks to naturally fertile volcanic soil.

50 | expat

2

6

7

Atimonan in Quezon is the leading force in the thrust towards discovering as well as maximizing herbal, plant-based remedies.

The province has approximately 1,000 species of medicinal plants, many of which were unheard of, until now. Through its Quezon Herbal program, the municipality aims to showcase existing medicinal plants, to help people through plant-based remedies, as well as to build a viable industry from these.

To showcase these efforts, the local government has constructed an impressive Herbal Pavilion within the Quezon Protected Landscape in Atimonan Zigzag Park. After a drive up the so-called death-defying windy road know as “bitukang manok” (chicken guts; and, by the way, the road’s reputation is not entirely well-deserved, for the drive is nowhere near as fearsome as others would have you believe), we arrived at the park. It was a morning well-spent; as we were clued in to the virtually limitless possibilities of herbal concoctions, demonstrated by intuitive healer and herbal practitioner, Jacob Medina.

Heirloom cuisine The bounty of Quezon extends to its local cuisine, much of which has been passed down from generation to generation.

Suman (sweetened sticky rice) is a staple dessert and snack in most parts of the province, but differences in recipes account for slight variations in flavor, and one is left with no other option but to try all the variants! Yum! Tamales, a specialty

8

9

LOCAL SHORES

3

10

4

11

12

13

14

(1-4) Surfing at one of Real’s many beaches, just by The PaRK; (5) Quezon’s renowned local spirits; (6,7) Beachfront dinner at Blue Pavilion; (8) Entrance to Atimonan’s Herbal Gardens; (9) A typical snack at Infanta consist of suman (sticky rice), apas (flour biscuits), and ginaatan halo-halo (a variety of tubers and other ingredients, cooked in sweetened coconut milk). (10,13) Suman making at Infanta; (11,12,14) Quezon delicacies: Sinantol na Alimango at Hipon; Delinong Manok; (15-16) Tina Decal shapes the minukmok

16

of Sariaya, differs from suman in that the former is sticky, savory rice with shredded chicken at the center.

Some of the heirloom dishes we sampled (which were every bit a delicious treat!) were the Sinantol na Alimango at Hipon (grated cottonfruit, sautéed in pork and 15 garlic, stewed with lemongrass, ginger, and coconut milk) and the Adobong Dilaw (chicken cooked in turmeric) of Infanta; the minukmok (pounded semi-ripe cassava

bananas, mixed with brown sugar, homemade peanut butter, sugar and margarine) of Pagbilao; and the Kulawu (banana heart stewed in coconut milk, also called the “Surprise Dish” because of the unexpected, “secret “ flavor provided by roasted coconut slivers) and the Delinong Manok (named after a certain Lino, reportedly the first man to cook the dish; a traditional dish served at courtship rites; chicken stuffed with minced meat and boiled egg, and steeped in chicken broth) prepared by Chef Gio Macalipay at Graceland Estates and Country Club in Tayabas.

One of my favorite food memories of Quezon, however, was not made at a fancy club or resort, but on a tiny street in the tiny village of Mateuna in Tayabas, at a small noodle house named Liwag Pancitan.

15

expat | 51

LOCAL SHORES

17

20

18

21

Mila and husband Boyet Liwag have been cooking up a Pancit Habhab storm for the last 15 years. Mila serves a portion of the local noodle specialty onto a banana leaf, and then tosses the condiments (boiled quail egg and some minced meat) atop the noodles, as though playing a round of jacks. A dash of sweet-spicy vinegar, and time for the tricky part: slurping the piping hot noodles straight off the leaf and into your mouth. Hands and utensils not allowed.

A delightful experience, all around! To boot, the tasty snack costs no more than the equivalent of US$.25 cents.

Fiesta all you can Quezon is highly renowned for its festivals, with the Lucban San Isidro Pahiyas having already gained international acclaim. But there are many other festivals which are as vibrant, although perhaps less visited. The festivals take place almost simultaneously on May 15, across Quezon, in honor of the Patron of Harvest, San Isidro Labrador.

We hiked off to picturesque Gumaca, which was all decked-out for the Arania’t Baluarte Festival, where we were met with a riot of color and stunning creativity.

Imagine floats and chandeliers (arania) made almost entirely of fruits and vegetables, legumes, nuts, and other harvest elements, hanging from ornamented archways or bastions (baluarte). Annually, after the public parade of the San Isidro icon, the villagers grab what they wish from chandeliers fully loaded with nature’s bounty and other goodies. Then, we made 52 | expat

22

19

our way to Tayabas for the Mayohan or Hagisan ng Suman (literally, throwing of sticky rice treats) Festival. Now this was quite the fun frenzy! Strategically positioned at the town’s center, on the balcony of the Municipal Building (which dates back to Spanish Colonial Rule), we waited for the San Isidro statue to pass, carried aloft by a throng of male festival goers and devotees. On signal, we proceeded to throw bushel upon bushel of suman to chants of “Hagisan na!”

(It’s throwing time!). What ensued was a merry mêlée of suman-grabbing mayhem!

The more suman one can grab, the more blessings for the next harvest; or so I was told. Last but definitely not least on the

23

“fiesta all you can” menu was the famed Lucban San Isidro Pahiyas, but by night.

Known as the Kutitap Pahiyas (kutitap, for twinkling lights; pahiyas, to decorate or prettify), houses adorned in artful, elaborate, kaleidoscopic kiping (sticky rice,

LOCAL SHORES SPOTTING > Quezon province

24

25

26

27

(17,18) Mila’s Pancit Habhab with Lumpiang Shanghai; (19,23) Traditional folk dances performed by the Atimonan LGU-DYD Community Dance Troupe; (20-22) Ornamented archways and festival dancers at the Arabnia’t Baluarte of Gumaca; (24-25)Scenes from Lucban’s Kutitap Pahiyas; (26,27) the stunning Cathedral of San Diego de Alcala in Gumaca and Spanish Colonial era Lighthouse;(28-29) Suman-grabbing frenzy at Tayabas’ Mayohan or Hagisan ng Suman; (30) Tayabas’ 18th Century 5-span Malagonlong Bridge

28

29

colored and pounded into delicate paperthin leaves) take on ethereal beauty come nightfall, with firefly lights gracefully strewn in deliberate, breathtaking patterns.

Deeply-rooted fervor Indeed, Quezon is a province of warmth and heritage. Its deep cultural-historical roots are evidenced by its many heritage homes; Hispanic stone churches, old bridges and forts; and national monuments. The fervor and grace of its people is given away by the lilting tones in which they speak, and the open smiles, resplendent on their faces. This is also true: Quezonians are a proud people, who take pride in their past, in what they have, in what they have become, and in what they are capable of.

However, they are not a prideful people.

30

Proud without being prideful: a balancing act attempted by many, but achieved only by a few. Proudly Quezon, proudly Filipino.

expat | 53

LOCAL SHORES

54 | expat

LOCAL SHORES

Changing perspectives, changing lives How a Dutch woman is changing lives by showing the ‘other side’ of Manila Text by Ching Dee Photos by Jay Yao Campos, used with permission from Juliette Kwee and Smokey Tours

We all have something to complain about: taxes, traffic, slow internet, small apartment, high rent; the list could go on and on. But if you meet someone with even less than what you have right now, would you still still complain?

When Juliette Kwee realized she was “missing something basic” in her life, she decided to move to the Philippines from the Netherlands. A psychologist by profession, Kwee soon found herself surrounded by people who were looking for a way to help out communities in the slums of Manila— where most of them have been forgotten by the government.

In January 2011, 20 local photographers joined Kwee in a photo walk around Barangay 105 in Sitio Damayan, Tondo, Manila. After the tour, the photographers donated their photographs to be sold, with the proceeds intended to helping the community.

expat | 55

LOCAL SHORES “Talents of the residents of the barangay were discovered and they told stories about their neighborhood with passion, pride, and dignity,” Kwee told Expat. “The idea of a special tour was born. I wanted to show others the resiliency of the people in the slums. The idea with our tours is [that] despite all challenges faced by the people living in the slums, a lot of them really know how to appreciate life.”

Soon enough, she founded World Experience Philippines (WEP), an NGO which conducts ‘Smokey Tours’ – immersion tours of the slum areas in Manila. She then started recruiting and coaching potential tour guides from the communities they are helping; locals who know the subculture, the nuances, the ins and outs of the neighborhood, so they can provide a more in-depth tour, as well secure the safety of the tourists. In order to professionally develop the tours, international organizations that were already offering slum tours helped out, like Chris Way of Reality Tours and Travel in India.

According to Kwee, “Smokey Tours empowers, educates, and trains people from underprivileged communities in Metro Manila by running safe and eyeopening tours. Through our tours, we raise awareness about social issues, inspire individuals to bring about societal change, use proceeds to improve the living conditions in underprivileged communities, and bridge the gap between people from different backgrounds.”

At the risk of sounding all too idealistic, Kwee understands the challenges of managing WEP and conducting Smokey Tours.

Yet, she remains hopeful.

“My dream is that after people have done our tours, they will want to help out or change their lives, appreciate what they have and complain less,” she shared. “I always say we can all make a better world, it just starts with smiling at your neighbor. We help people from impoverished areas and I enjoy seeing positive [changes].“ Most of the people who join Smokey Tours are foreigners, according to Kwee, ranging from backpackers to luxury travelers; from kids to senior citizens. These are people who are curious about the Philippines beyond the scenic beaches and stunning mountains.

“Smokey Tours offers its customers the chance to see parts of Manila that they would not be able to access easily by themselves and without local knowledge, whilst raising awareness about social issues and assisting underprivileged communities.

Our guests are mainly curious to see ‘the other side’ of Manila and are willing to learn. They say it is a real eye-opener, they have more insight and the tour is enlightening. Some of them donate money 56 | expat

or supplies, and [say the tour] has brought social change in their daily life,” Kwee said.

She added, “We want to inspire people from all nationalities to make [a] change and contribute to societal wellbeing, whether it is within their own communities or on a much larger scale.”

In a time when people are so focused on getting what they want instead of what they need, Smokey Tours offers a change of perspective, especially for foreigners who are seeing depressed communities like Payatas or Happy Land or Tondo for the first time. It would be easy to assume that the government has failed them, that their lives could be a lot better if only they were given more opportunities to uplift themselves from poverty. But instead of dwelling on these what-ifs, Kwee decided to open the eyes of more people into the harsh realities of life in Metro Manila and started extending lending hands of those

LOCAL SHORES SPOTTING > Tondo, Manila

This is the side of Manila a lot of tourists never get to see. Albeit depressing to some, Juliette Kwee finds hope by exposing more people to the realities of Manila and providing ways to make a difference in the lives of Filipinos in less fortunate situations

who are willing to reach out.

Anyone who has seen Metro Manila beyond Makati and BGC knows about the chaos and poverty that pervade. But those who have spent enough time in the Philippines also understand the distinct ability of its people to readily give out toothy smiles in the face of the harshest living conditions. To this, Kwee says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We strive to help people realize that happiness does not rely on wealth or material possessions. After all [these] years, I feel at home: Filipino ang puso (at heart). I wish a lot of people will [feel at home here], too.â&#x20AC;?

For more information on Smokey Tours, visit www.smokeytours.com or email info@ smokeytours.com

expat | 57

LOCAL SHORES

“My soul is full of longing for the secret of the sea, and the heart of the great ocean sends a thrilling pulse through me” -Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

The view from Cape Engaño Lighthouse, overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean

58 | expat

LOCAL SHORES

Text by Ching Dee / Photos by Leovic Arceta and Ching Dee

FOUND

Beyond land, sea and into breathtaking adventure in Cagayan

Famed poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow couldn’t have said it any better when he wrote, “My soul is full / of longing for the secret of the sea, / and the heart of the great ocean / sends a thrilling pulse through me.”

Despite not knowing how to swim (yes, I am aware I live in an archipelago), like Longfellow over there, my soul is full of longing for the sea, and just the thought of the ocean sends a thrilling pulse through me. So, when the prospect of going to Palaui Island was finally within grasp, I grabbed the opportunity with both hands and didn’t let go until I was in a sleeper bus on my way to Tuguegarao City, the capital of Cagayan Valley.

And if Palaui sounds familiar to you, it’s probably because it’s was the chosen location for two seasons of the hit reality

TV show Survivor.

A worthy detour Before heading to Santa Ana (the jump-off point to Palaui Island), we decided to stay for a day in Tuguegarao to visit two of Cagayan’s tourist spots: Buntun Bridge and Callao Cave.

Buntun Bridge is the second longest bridge in the Philippines stretching 1,098 kilometers and connecting the towns of Tuguegarao and Solana. It offers an unobstructed view of the Rio Grande de Cagayan (the longest river in the Philippines), which traverses four provinces (Nueva Vizcaya, Quirino, Isabela, and Cagayan) and a total of 31 cities and municipalities. The 59-year-old bridge— robust in built—is key in transporting passengers and produce to and from Cagayan.

expat | 59

LOCAL SHORES

2

1

In the town of Peñablanca (roughly 30 minutes from Tuguegarao City) is Callao Cave (pronounced /kahl-lao/), perhaps the most famous tourist destination in Cagayan.

Peñablanca is called the Caving Capital of the Philippines, having around 378 caves, 75 of which are open to the public.

According to our well-trained volunteer guide, Niño Junio, Callao Cave was discovered by US President Theodore Roosevelt in 1932. In fact, visitors can still see the faint writing of Teddy’s last name by the cave’s entrance. Callao has more than seven chambers, but only five are open to the public. The most notable is the second chamber, which houses a small chapel where a mass is held every first Saturday of the month. This chamber is called the ‘highest room’ because of the naturally occurring skylight from an opening 160 feet high. It was also in this cave where Armand Salvador Mijares discovered the fossilized remains of a man, which after studying the fossil, was determined to be 67,000 years old.

Pro-tip: Summer in Tuguegarao means it is hella hot. So pack light clothing, wear sunscreen, drink lots of water, and be assured that the trip is worth the sunburn and buckets of sweat.

A death-defying dalliance with the sea The jump-off point to Palaui Island is in Port San Vicente in Santa Ana, Cagayan—the last town of mainland Luzon. Punta Verde, the residential community of Palaui Island, is a 20-minute boat ride from the port.

60 | expat

6

5

9

I would not recommend sailing from the port to Punta Verde late in the afternoon as the waves get stronger—and therefore scarier—than I am usually comfortable with. But then again, if you see calm in the faces of your boatmen, then you should be in good hands. But in case you’re wondering, yes, life jackets are provided.

If you’re the more adventurous type, I suggest staying at least one night in Punta Verde. There are currently two accommodation options in Punta Verde: Ate Elsa’s Homestay, and Nature Village. A

night at Ate Elsa’s Homestay costs PhP250 (roughly US$5) per night per person. The rooms are equipped with just the bare necessities. Do not expect an air conditioner (the island has no electricity!), but a battery-powered fan will be provided for your convenience. Charging cables for gadgets can also be requested. I gotta say, though: That is one of the most basic nights I have ever had in my entire life. And that’s a lot coming from someone who’s slept on floors and bare beaches.

The next day, we woke up at five in the

LOCAL SHORES

3

4

7

8

(1) Buntun Bridge; (2) Chapel inside the second chamber of Callao Cave; (3) Dos Hermanas Island as seen from the Cape Engaño lighthouse; (4) The residential community at Punta Verde, Palaui island; (5) Ate Elsa’s homestay in Palaui Island is for the adventurous traveler; (6) Callao Cave’s third chamber also known as the “Cream Chamber” because of the rock formations resembling scoops of ice cream; (7) St. Peter Metropolitan Cathedral in Tuguegarao City; (8) Waves from the Pacific Ocean; (9) Crocodile Island; (10) The ruins of Cape Engaño lighthouse

morning to start our island tour. Before we even boarded the boat, we felt little drops of water from the heavens. We looked at the horizon and saw ominous, dark gray clouds making its way toward land. “This is not okay,” I thought to myself. I asked our boatmen if we’re still going through with the tour, they said yes and assured us it was safe to proceed.

And proceed we did. Less than 10 minutes into the sea, rain started pouring—pelting us like little pellets. As our open-aired boat cut through the sea and the sheets of rain, all I could think about was how flimsy our little boat was. But all I could do was shield our camera bag from the soaking rain and squint my eyes. There was nothing but a white veil of rain around us, the sea (Pacific Ocean, I believe) under us. Surprisingly, at the height of the rain, the sea was immensely calm—not a single wave or bolt of lighting. But about 45 minutes later, the rain slowly faded and the wind started to

pick up, which meant larger waves and more visions of watery death in my mind. To our utter joy, we survived. We were already dripping wet without help from the sea, but alive (Yes, all-mighty sea, I have a newfound respect for you now).

Cape Engaño Lighthouse Finally, over an hour later, we could see Cape Engaño on the horizon. Cape Engaño was the first stop of our Palaui Island tour.

Now over 120 years old, the lighthouse, which was also called Faro del Cabo de Engaño, was designed by Spanish engineers Pers Y Pers and was completed in December 31, 1892. Today, it is managed by the Philippine Coast Guard.

Going up the lighthouse without a guide isn’t permitted, so make sure you drop by the campsite and register before heading out. Just as well, having a guide makes for an informative climb and an experienced photographer who knows all the good spots.

10

expat | 61

LOCAL SHORES SPOTTING > Palaui

11

12

The 110-meter climb to the lighthouse takes about 20 minutes or so, depending on how fast you trek (or how many selfies you take along the way). As I heaved and clung onto what’s left of my lungs at the halfway point, a group passed us by, including someone who was at least a sexagenarian. So in case you’re wondering, yes, the trail is family-friendly.

All the hard work pays off at the end when you are greeted with an uninterrupted and stunning panorama. The lighthouse offers a 360-degree view of Luzon’s end: Babuyan Islands, with Dos Hermanas Islands (“two sisters”) on the north, the typhoon-bearing Pacific Ocean on the west, and the captivating Engaño Cove on the east. According to our guide Gilbert Celis, the cape was named “Engaño” as a way to describe its naturally encouraging and enticing beauty (“engaño” means encouraging or enticing, a Spanish term which is also used by Filipinos until today).

And true enough, the view is more than enough to lure visitors. And after that death-defying boat ride and trek, I would gladly do it again to catch another glimpse of the breathtaking view. After all, it’s not everyday you get to stare into the ends of mainland Luzon.

honest, Boracay’s got nothing on Anguib Beach. Unspoilt and uncrowded, Anguib exudes a sense of calm that washes over then cradles you. Yes, there may be numerous water activities available (like jet skiing and diving), but the tranquility persists. It’s the kind of beach that draws you to lie down and soak up the sun as the waves wash away your worries one rhythmic crash at a time.

When we got there, the dark clouds started rolling in again and after we had our lunch, rain started pouring, but I’ll be damned if I didn’t get to enjoy that cerulean sea just because of a little rain. So we swam (well, I waded) under the rain and had the best freakin’ time in that gorgeous beach.

Pro-Tip: There are no restaurants at Anguib Beach, so make sure you pack your lunch.

Bring snacks, too, as the lengthy boat ride can really take its toll on your body—and we learned this the hard way.

Palaui is more than just an island. It is a place of exciting discoveries and a great place to create lasting memories. After all, now that paradise is found, the only thing left to do is to enjoy it.

Santa Ana, Cagayan Palaui Island is part of Santa Ana, Cagayan Valley—the last town of mainland Luzon. It is situated 642 kilometers from Manila and has a total land area of 441.3 sq. km.

The town is not named after Saint Anne (as is the popular assumption). The name Ana is actually an acronym of the surnames of three former provincial officials, namely Governor Nicasio Arranz with board members Federico Navarro and Roberto Avena. Santa Ana is considered a Special Economic Zone where the Camilo Osias Naval Base is found.

Apart from its pristine beaches and scenic landscapes, Santa Ana is also famous for whale and dolphin watching. It is also dubbed as the game fishing capital of the Philippines.

Getting there From Manila, you have a choice between taking a two-hour flight or 12-hour bus ride to Tuguegarao City, the capital of Cagayan Valley.

There are daily flights to Tuguegarao via major airlines from Manila. Bus companies also have daily trips, but pro tip: travel at night and take the sleeper bus (a bus with beds instead of seats) if you can afford it. For those who are planning to take the bus, check out www.pinoytravel.com for hassle-free online booking (go to page 24 for more on PinoyTravel).

From Tuguegarao, Santa Ana is about three to four hours by van—without traffic. Pro-tip: Tell the driver to drop you off at the pier.

From the pier, Punta Verde—the inhabited part of Palaui Island—is about 20 to 30 minutes by boat. Make sure you have boat reservations prior to your trip, otherwise the port authorities might not let you go to Punta Verde, especially late in the afternoon.

Cradle of calm After Cape Engaño, we headed to Anguib Beach, which is about another hour away by boat. On our way, we passed by a sublime mangrove plantation, which offered welcome tranquility from the noise of the boat engine and the waves of the nearly-open sea.

Anguib Beach is slowly gaining popularity around the country and even worldwide. A lot of people are calling it the “Boracay of the North,” with its white sand beach and aquamarine waters. But to be completely 62 | expat

13

(11)Apart from the charms of its cerulean waters, Anguib Beach is also lined with pine trees (12) Pancit Batil Patung of Tuguegarao (13)the sun sets at Sta. Ana, mainland Luzon’s northernmost town

GLOBAL VIEW We take a break from all the local lovinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by taking you to the artistic side of Dubai; make you privy about one of the Caribbeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-kept secrets; get you acquainted with the once recluse Balkan nation of Albania; and give you a plethora of reasons to make Hungary your next holiday destination

expat | 63

GLOBAL VIEW

Caribbean Diary third of 3 parts

64 | expat

GLOBAL VIEW

I received an invitation from dear Sister Gertrude Tang Kai of the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Cluny based in Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago to attend her 60th anniversary as a nun. Ten years earlier, I attended her jubilee and was only able to see a little bit of Trinidad and squeeze in a short visit to Grenada. This trip, I decided to spend more time in the Caribbean by creating an itinerary that would allow me to holiday in Trinidad and its sister island Tobago, cruise to the sunkissed islands of Sint Maarten/Saint Martin, Antigua, Saint Kitts, Saint Lucia and Barbados in the Lesser Antilles, and explore verdant Dominica and exotic Suriname.

You might be wondering why Suriname is part of my Caribbean Diary. Actually, aside from the islands of the Greater and Lesser Antilles, the Caribbean region also includes the Central and South American countries of Belize, Venezuela, Guyana, French Guiana and Suriname.

In some accounts, Mexico, Colombia and all the Central American countries with coasts bordering the Caribbean Sea are also included.

Expat Associate Publisher Vernon Prieto gives a glimpse on why the Carribbean/South American country of Suriname is considered one of the region’s best-kept secrets Text and photos by Vernon Prieto

Green diversity Suriname is situated in the eastern coast of South America, between independent Guyana and French Guiana. The 163,820-square kilometer country is one of the greenest on earth, boasting swelling rivers, imposing mountains and an impenetrable pristine rainforest that blankets almost 90 percent of its total land area, which shelters many species of unusual flora and fauna. It is also a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, multi-religious and multi-lingual nation of approximately 550,000 inhabitants made up of indigenous Ameridians, descendants of African slaves, East Indian and Javanese contract workers, and mixedrace Creoles. Other ethnic groups include Europeans, Chinese, Jews and recently, Brazilians working in the mines.

Suriname’s national language is Dutch and is one of only two non-Romance speaking countries in the continent, the other being Guyana, where English is spoken.

From Dominica, I flew to Suriname on two different carriers which necessitated two stop-overs. Arriving in Paramaribo, Suriname’s capital late at night, I took a taxi directly to the Courtyard Hotel for a much needed shower and sleep.

The following day, the very competent hotel staff assisted me in contacting a freelance guide/driver to take me around the city. Paramaribo’s Historic Inner City is inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage list due in part to its “exceptional example of the gradual fusion of European architecture and construction techniques with indigenous South American materials and crafts to create a new architectural idiom” and “unique example of the contact between the European culture of the Netherlands and the indigenous cultures and environment of South America in the years of intensive colonization of this region in the 16th and 17th centuries.” From the back of the taxi, I was able to appreciate the architecturally interesting beauty of Paramaribo’s mostly wooden structures due to their craftsmanship, simplicity and uniformity.

Colonial Dutch Buildings line the streets of Paramaribo’s Historic Inner City

expat | 65

GLOBAL VIEW

1

2

Tourist trail We visited several of the city’s famous landmarks starting with Fort Zeelandia on the banks of the Suriname River, which started as a wooden fort built by the French in 1640, taken over and named Fort Willoughby by the British, and later captured by the Dutch in 1667. From there, we made our way to the opposite side of the city to the impressive Ahmadiyya Anjuman Mosque in the Keizerstraat, the largest of many mosques in the city.

Surprisingly, next door to the mosque is the elegant Neveh Shalom Synagogue which was completed in 1843.

Two other places of worship were next on the list; the colorful Arya Dewaker Hindu Temple followed by the glorious Sint-Petrusen-Pauluskathedraal (Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Peter and Paul). This church is a wooden Roman Catholic Cathedral with interiors in natural Surinamese cedar. It is regarded as the largest and tallest wooden structure in the Western Hemisphere measuring 59.1 meters long, 16.5 meters wide and at its highest point from the tower to the bronze cross, 44 meters high.

Our next stop was to the stately Presidential Palace which is a perfect example of Dutch colonial architecture.

It stands magnificently in Independence Square alongside other notable buildings such as the National Assembly of Suriname, the Congress building, the Court of Justice, and the Ministry of Finance. I was very lucky because I happened to be in Suriname on the day the country was celebrating Indigenous People’s Day, which coincided with the United Nations International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples. I charmed my way into the Palace grounds and mingled and took photographs of the native Amerindian people in their delightful costumes of feathers, beads and other fascinating ornaments while they made speeches and performed their dances and rituals.

Behind the Presidential Palace is the lovely Garden of Palms where royal palms were planted by order of the then Governor of Suriname, Cornelis van Aerssen van Sommelsdijck. The garden was opened to the public in 1685 and is the regular site of the Indigenous People’s Day festivities.

Stalls selling Amerindian crafts, African woodcarvings, Javanese food, and East 66 | expat

5

Indian textiles competed for the attention of the many locals and tourists who were in the park to listen to music, watch different kinds of entertainment numbers, snack on the many culinary delights, and shop for that one of a kind souvenir.

Setting Suriname After taking in all the sites and amusing myself in the festival, I returned to the hotel on foot to get ready for the dolphin and sunset tour I signed-up for. This relaxing three-hour cruise on the vast Suriname River starts daily in the afternoon. Several boats criss-cross the river in search of pods of inquisitive dolphins. Once located, the boats’ captains rush to the spot where tourists can be mesmerized by the many antics of the intelligent water mammals.

After a while, we stopped for local snacks at an old former plantation village on the other bank of the river where we took photos with various species of tame Amazonian parrots. On the way back to the city, our eyes feasted on the marvelous sight of the multiple hues of the setting sun.

Since my second home is Indonesia, I decided that evening to check out the many Javanese/Indonesian restaurants called

warungs. Several were recommended and most are located in Greenstraat in the Blauwgrond area. After looking over the menus, I settled for one of the grander eateries on the strip. I was bewildered because nothing came close to the wonderful Javanese food I am familiar with. None of the dishes compared to the delicious food in Surabaya, Jogjakarta and other cities and towns in Java. I boldly suggested to the restaurant owner to hire chefs from Indonesia to update their archaic and adulterated recipes to conform to authentic Javanese cuisine. I was in for a surprise that night when I was informed by the restaurant owner that the Javanese community was observing Javanese Arrival Day with a three-day carnival nearby. I headed to the park where the festivities were being held and spent a short moment celebrating with the local Javanese community.

That night I got back to the hotel, showered, packed and took a taxi to the airport for my flight to Toronto via Trinidad.

I was looking forward to a wonderful and relaxing return flight to Manila from Toronto on EVA Air’s superb business class service. I watched the latest movie

6

GLOBAL VIEW SPOTTING >Suriname

3

4

Travel made easier with EVA Air Getting to the Caribbean is never as easy and comfortable as hopping on an EVA Air flight to many of their destinations in Canada and the United States.

EVA Air will launch nonstop flights from Chicago to Taipei on Thursday, Nov. 3, 2016. To start, the airline will operate four flights a week, using one of its latest models, Wi-Fi equipped Boeing 777-300ERs comfortably configured for 333 passengers in Royal Laurel business, Elite premium economy and Economy Classes. EVA is also giving passengers more itinerary flexibility by adjusting schedules to offer more daytime flights and increasing frequencies on existing routes.

Adding to the current Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto and Vancouver services, Chicago is EVA’s eighth gateway in North America.

7

8

EVA already has more flights and seat capacity between North America and Taiwan with easier, one-stop connections to more destinations throughout Asia and Mainland China than any other airline. By year’s end, it will be offering 76 flights a week between North America and Taipei. And it is increasing frequencies on routes within Southeast Asia, boosting the number of easy onward connections from the current 84 flights a week to 124 this year as well. The added flights, adjusted schedules and new Chicago route will equip EVA to offer business travelers from throughout North America greater convenience, more choices and easier access to markets, financial centers and manufacturing hubs throughout Asia.

Passengers can learn more about EVA and its services online at www.evaair.com.

For Carribbean Cruises and Air Tickets and Holiday Packages to the Carribean, contact: Horizon Travel & Tours, Inc. 490 Potenciana Mansion, Santa Monica Street, Ermita, Manila

9

10

(1)Fort Zeelandia with the Statue of Queen Wilhelmina (2)Suriname’s Presidential Palace on Independence Square (3)Ahmadiyya Anjuman Mosque (4)Arya Dewaker Temple (5)High Court of Justice Building (6)Suriname cedar interior of the Catholic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul (7)Dutch Colonial Buildings (8)Ameridians celebrating Indigenous People’s Day (9)Boats for spotting dolphins on the Suriname River (10)Sunset over the Suriname River (11)A young Creole boy and his horse

blockbusters, devoured every morsel of their delectable meals, and had a restful sleep on their comfortable flatbeds, wearing the pajamas they provided me.

11

For inquiries, call (02) 328-3388, (02) 521-2586, e-mail: info_main@horizontravel.ph or visit www. horizontravel.ph Uni-Orient Travel, Inc. Makati Branch Office: G/F 167 Healthcare Building, Legaspi corner Dela Rosa Streets, Legaspi Village, Makati For inquiries, contact (02) 818-9585 to 89, (0917) 823-0033, e-mail: uniorientmkt@yahoo.com or visit www.uniorient.com EVA Airlines 23/F LKG Tower, 6801 Ayala Avenue, Makati For inquiries, contact (02) 753-1380 to 82, (02) 8841142 (fax), or visit www.evaair.com

Before falling asleep, I recalled all the wonderful experiences that would form my Caribbean Diary. Then, it dawned on me that I should have allocated more time in Suriname as there was more I wanted to see and experience in that very diverse and interesting country.

I highly recommend visiting Suriname to all adventure seekers, lovers of architecture and culture fanatics. Suriname is truly the Caribbean’s and South America’s best-kept secret. expat | 67

GLOBAL VIEW

Getting to the art of the matter

From oil to art, this Emirate City has shifted its focus to the finer things in life Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Nigel Ian Laxamana / Additional photos by Angie Duarte

The sheikdom of Dubai is one of seven emirates that collectively form the United Arab Emirates. Long known as a major power player on the global economic scene, Dubai’s economy has shifted from the oil industry (which now only accounts for two percent of the ultra-modern giant’s gross domestic product) to a thriving economy based on trade, tourism, capitalism, business, design and technology. The nation has, furthermore, since emerged as a hub for the IT and finance industries, and is now regarded as one of the most influential business portals for the Middle East and Africa.

Along with the boom of this freemarket capitalist economy, Dubai has

68 | expat

witnessed an incredible explosion in its infrastructure, as well, within the last 15 years. Downtown Dubai (also known as New Dubai) is as a scene from a futuristic film and is marked by a proliferation of hyper–modern architecture, with buildings whose structure and design can best be described as mind-blowing, even mindboggling!

While such gravity-defying edifices of glass and steel comprise the heart of the city’s master plan, Old Dubai remains a gateway to a life of bygone years. Charming customary Arabian architecture, bustling traditional markets known as Souks, and quaint surroundings characterized by a more

laid-back way of life are all typical sights in the Creek-side areas of Dubai.

Royal decrees With the shift in economy, Dubai has also seen a shift to the finer, more artistic, side of life: the decidedly happier side of life, one might say.

The Emirate has become a haven for the artsy set, and for varied forms of artistic expression. Such initiatives have been birthed under the patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE, Ruler of Dubai, in line with the Royal Family’s commitment to fully encourage and support art, culture and innovation.

GLOBAL VIEW

“Building a road or a bridge might take a year or two, but the development of people takes a lifetime,” His Highness Sheikh Mohammed was quoted as having said at the launch of Dubai’s 2015 Strategy, a roadmap towards longterm national developmental goals.

Among these goals are the honing of the nation’s cultural identity, selfawareness, and global participation in the international art scene.

uAwards Night of the 5th Season of HIPA, held at Burj Park in downtown Dubai

Recently, HH Sheikh Mohammed – himself a poet (under the pen name of Saleet) and an avid fan of the arts – appointed a State Minister of Happiness, in recognition of the vital role that culture and the arts play in creating a deeper sense of happiness in the people of any nation.

Minister Ohood Al Roumi, a woman and Dubai’s former head of economic policy, was appointed in February 2016 to “align and drive government policy to create social good and satisfaction,” HH Sheikh Mohammed said. “Happiness in the UAE is not just a hope; there will (be) plans, projects, programs and indicators.”

expat | 69

GLOBAL VIEW

1

2

Artistic hub To date, Dubai plays host to numerous art events and fairs, including the more popular Art Week, Art Dubai, Design Days Dubai, and Sikka Art Fair, which are all a part of Dubai Art Season held every March, in order to emphasize the Emirate’s burgeoning creative scene.

Dubai Art Season officially begins on the first day of Art Week, which features the Sikka Art Fair, Design Days Dubai, and Art Dubai, alongside the Middle East Film & Comic Con. During Dubai Art Season, creativity takes center stage, with works of art on exhibit in outdoor public spaces, and a varied roster of art-centered activities, performances, workshops and forums as some of the season’s offerings.​​

4

In similar manner, Art Dubai is a showcase of artists and galleries from all over the globe, and is the leading international art fair in the Middle East, Africa and South Asia. Aside from the exhibition of contemporary art, the scope of the highly-regarded fair – now on its 10th year – includes non-profit programs and educational efforts in the arts, including Campus Art Dubai, a year-round school for artists, curators, writers, architects, designers and cultural producers based in the UAE. In 2016, the Emirate completed construction of the Dubai Design District, known as d3, which is just one of several recent projects dedicated to the furtherance of design and the arts, by nurturing local and regional talent. Considered a major feather in Dubai’s creative hat, d3 is poised to become the region’s new home for creative minds and spirits; a sanctuary for the visionary soul, so to speak.

In sharper focus Love for the arts runs deep in Dubai’s Royal Family. HH Sheikh Mohammed’s son, for instance, Crown Prince Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has started his own projects in the field of the finer things. The Crown Prince is, like his father, a poet of renown in the UAE, and writes under the pseudonym Fazza.

Additionally, he is an avid photographer, 70 | expat

8

and it is this passion that led to the creation of the Hamdan International Photography Awards, launched in 2011. The annual contest, which has put Dubai on the global photography map, was conceptualized to foster cross cultural dialogues and to further elevate the art form of photography.

Throughout the duration of its first year, HIPA received photographic entries from 4,000 shutterbugs. In 2016, which marked

the competition’s Fifth Season (which bore the theme “Happiness,” and to which this author was fortunate enough to have been invited) the competition saw a whopping total of more than 80,000 entries from 32,000 photographers worldwide. The exponential growth may be attributed to the contest’s growing esteem and acclaim within global photography communities, and also to the hefty prize money at stake: a total of US$250,000 is awarded each year, across several pre-determined categories. Aside

GLOBAL VIEW SPOTTING >Dubai

3

5

6

7

(1-3)Awards Night of the 5th Season of HIPA, held at Burj Park in downtown Dubai (4)Scenic fountains in a manmade lagoon beside Burj Park (5-6)Inside the galleries at the Dubai Photo Exhibition 2016 (7)An artistic manmade waterfall with sculpted divers is one popular attraction at Dubai Mall (8)Happiness, the theme of HIPSA’s 5th Season (9)Sculpture at Burj Park (10)HIPA’s Board of Trustees, together with judges and honorees

“Building a road or a bridge might take a year or two, but the development of people takes a lifetime” 10

9

from providing a platform for aspiring Emirati and international photographers, HIPA acknowledges those who have made invaluable contributions to the art form by way of its Special Recognition Awards, bestowed upon veterans in the industry.

In addition to the contest, HIPA this year initiated Dubai Photo Exhibition, and Dubai Photo Forum. The first-ever exhibition was a successful, albeit admittedly ambitious, endeavor; an impressive photographic

venture which showcased over 800 images spanning several nations, as well as never before seen images of Dubai of old from the Royal Family’s personal collection. The collection of well-curated photos was carefully and beautifully mounted throughout 20,000 square feet of exhibition space, at a temporary museum in Dubai’s d3. Top-caliber speakers and leaders in the field of photography led forums and workshops, throughout the course of the exhibit.

One nation, global vision With as many as 200 nationalities or more represented in its population of nearly 2.5 million people, Dubai is one nation with a decidedly global vision. Believing that its citizenry is the bedrock of a strong national foundation, the Emirate City is fully committed to nurturing its people – Emirati or otherwise – towards a more productive, more dynamic, more fulfilled future, with arts and culture an essential cog in the country’s well-oiled, efficient (and somewhat enviable) machinery. expat | 71

GLOBAL VIEW

A Balkans Oddysey First of 4 parts

Following his Carribean tarriance, Expat Associate Publisher Vernon Prieto takes us through the once recluse European region Text and photos by Vernon Prieto

72 | expat

GLOBAL VIEW

The Balkans, one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three important southern peninsulas, is comprised of 12 very different, yet in some ways, similar countries. The countries that make up the Balkans are Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Romania, Serbia, Slovenia, and the European part of Turkey. Their histories were dominated by conquerors, invaders and wars until not very long ago. The Macedonians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Austro-Hungarians have, at one time or another, staked claim to all or parts of the region. In more recent history, most of the Balkan Peninsula was under the influence of the Soviets until the collapse of the Soviet Union, which caused the dissolution of Yugoslavia and the emergence of Albania from isolation from the rest of the world.

Five different language families are spoken in the region with Slavic spoken by a majority of the Balkan people. Bosniac, Bulgarian, Croatian, Macedonian (Old Bulgarian), Montenegrin, Serbian and Slovenian are all Slavic languages and are understood in different degrees by all the speakers of these languages. Albanian is spoken in Albania and Kosovo, Greek in Greece, Turkish in Turkey and Romanian (a romance language related to Spanish, Italian, Portuguese and French) in Romania.

The Eastern Balkans was traditionally Orthodox Christian, while the western portion adhered to Roman Catholicism.

Due to the long occupation of the Ottoman Turks, Albania, Kosovo and Bosnia converted to Islam. Turkey, obviously is Muslim and there are scattered Muslim communities still in Macedonia, Bulgaria and elsewhere. Orthodox Christianity is still the prevalent religion in Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, Montenegro, Macedonia, Serbia, and the Serbian part of Bosnia called Republika Srpska, while the greater number of people in Croatia, Slovenia, and Croat dominated Herzegovina practice the Catholic faith.

All 12 countries are democratic republics. Bosnia and Herzegovina, although a republic, is different as it has three presidents, one each for its three major nationalities: Muslim Bosniacs, Orthodox Serbs and Catholic Croats. Albania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Romania, Slovenia and Turkey are NATO member countries. Greece and Slovenia are included in the Schengen area, and Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Romania and Slovenia are members of the European Union.

All of them are beautiful and worth visiting.

The resort town of Saranda on the Albanian Riviera

expat | 73

GLOBAL VIEW

1

2

Albania unveiled In this series about the Balkans, I chose to feature one of Europe’s most exciting and must-explore destinations – Albania.

Albania is now in the spotlight after many years as Europe’s reclusive nation while under dictatorship. The charms of Albania are now available for all avid travelers to experience, so let’s embark on a fantastic journey as I recount my Albanian Odyssey.

All roads lead to Albania! That’s right.

Albania can be reached by road from anywhere in Europe and the Balkans by crossing the bordering countries of Greece, Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro.

By sea, it can be reached by ferry from different ports in Italy and Corfu Island in Greece, and by cruise ships that dock in the seaside resorts of Durres and Saranda.

And of course, by air via its very compact and modern Nene Tereza (Mother Teresa) Tirana International Airport. The best way to travel to Albania and the rest of the Balkans is by Turkish Airlines, which flies daily from Manila to Istanbul, with twice daily connections to all the major cities in the Balkans. When I arrived in Tirana, Albania’s vibrant capital city, I started on an orientation tour of the city.

Downtown delights Tirana’s major boulevard was built by the Italians during their brief occupation of Albania. Thankfully, this broad artery is not lined with unappealing soviet-style edifices like those found in Moscow and other former communist cities. At one end of this boulevard is Mother Teresa Square, surrounded on three sides by the University of Tirana, Archaeological Institute and Academy of Arts. Unfortunately, the statue of Mother Teresa which used to grace the square was transferred to the airport and has since not been replaced. Walking down the road to the other end, on the left side is chic Taiwan Complex where the city’s trendiest restaurants, bars, clubs and casino are located.

On the right side of the boulevard, on a large side street is the recently constructed ultra-modern Saint Paul Catholic Cathedral – with its splendid stained-glass windows and a statue of the Albanian Saint, Mother Teresa. Walking further down towards the other end of the main boulevard are 74 | expat

3

4

the delightful yellow painted Italianate buildings housing the different government ministries. These buildings surround almost half of Skanderbeg Square which is named after Albania’s national hero (George Castriot Skanderbeg), a 15th century Albanian warrior and nobleman who resisted against the Ottomans. In the middle of the grass covered square is the monument of Skanderbeg; a giant Albanian flag is hoisted next to the monument.

On the ride side across from the monument is the charming Et’hem Bey Mosque, considered one of the most attractive mosques in Albania. The mosque’s Imam is most happy to welcome visitors to visit the mosque to view its beautifully decorated interior. Behind the mosque is the clock tower, one of the symbols of Tirana. It was built in the 1820s and is typical to all Ottoman cities. The impressive building on the other end of the square boasting a superb mosaic in its façade

5

is the National Historic Museum. Other interesting structures around the square are the National Art Gallery, Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, and the Opera and Ballet Theatre, and Postbllok - a cold war installation featuring an original bunker (many bunkers can be found all over Albanbia), concrete pillars from Spac prison camp and a fragment of the Berlin Wall.

GLOBAL VIEW

6

7

10

11

9

(1)Nene Tereza International Airport (2)Sheraton Tirana Hotel; (3)three iconic buildings in Tirana - Et’hem Bey Mosque, Clock Tower and an Italianate Building (4)Statue of Mother Teresa in the grounds of St. Paul Catholic Cathedral (5) University of Tirana (6)Kruja Bazaar (7)Carpet weaver in Kruja (8)Youngsters of Berat (9)Kruja Castle housing the Skanderbeg Museum (10)Footbridge of Ali Pasha across the Vjose River in Tepelena, a town halfway between Berat and Gjirokastra (11)White multi-windowed houses of Berat

entrance is the Kruja Bazaar where one can shop for authentic Albanian crafts like wood carvings, wool carpets, silver filigree jewelry, delicate lace, copperware and metalcraft. After the city tour of Tirana and a visit to Kruja, I took a two-day tour to UNESCO World Heritage listed Berat and Gjirokastra the following day.

8

Forty-five minutes to an hour drive from Tirana is the town of Kruja where stands Kruja Castle, Skanderbeg’s citadel which withstood three massive sieges from the Turks. Inside the castle is the Skanderbeg museum, which chronicles the life and battles of the hero. Several restaurants serving an array of local dishes are found within the grounds, and close to the castle

Town of a Thousand Windows It took approximately two and a half hours to reach the enchanting town of Berat with its collection of white Ottoman houses cascading down the slopes of the hill from the commanding citadel above.

The white painted houses are characterized by numerous windows of all shapes and sizes, earning it the nickname of “Town of a Thousand Windows.” The citadel is a living museum where generations of families still live in the houses inside the fort and those on the hillside. Also in the inhabited quarter of the citadel is the Onufri National Museum of Icons, which is located inside the Orthodox Church of the Virgin Mary, where

the works of Onufri, the noteworthy Albanian iconographic painter, are displayed. The church’s gilded main nave and altar are astounding masterpieces of art.

A hearty lunch of the usual salads, cheeses, and yummy appetizers accompanied heavenly dishes of lamb, pork and something similar to Cornish hen. Full from the feast, I traveled another two and a half hours to Gjirokastra which, like Berat, is an Ottoman city with a citadel on a hill and white houses with multiple windows on the hillside, but, unlike the tile roofed houses in Berat, the roofs of Gjirokastra’s abodes are made of stone. Inside the citadel is the Museum of Weapons, where weapons of war are displayed. As I was spending the night there, I was happy to walk around and explore the old town. That night, I had the most wonderful dessert (tied with the baklava I ate in Bosnia) called “ashure” an Albanian fig pudding sprinkled with a generous amount of cinnamon.

expat | 75

GLOBAL VIEW

12

13

14

I awoke the following morning ready to visit Albania’s other UNESCO Heritage Site, the archeological site of Butrint. It was recommended to do a short detour and visit the The Blue Eye – a water spring near Muzine town. This natural phenomenon of clear blue water bubbling from a pool with a depth of over 50 meters is a popular tourist attraction. Getting there from Gjirokastra took 45 minutes, and another hour later, I reached Butrint after going to the scenic overlook beside another citadel where one can view the resort city of Saranda on the Ionian coast, Butrint Lake (actually a lagoon which is part sweet water and part salt water thereby creating ideal conditions for farming mussels) and Corfu, Greece’s largest Ionian island.

Old and new Butrint, as described by UNESCO was “Inhabited since prehistoric times, has been the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city and a bishopric. Following a period of prosperity under Byzantine administration, then a brief occupation by the Venetians, the city was abandoned in the late Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. The present archaeological site is a repository of ruins representing each period in the city’s development.” Before entering the park, one will see a Venetian Fort across the channel and once inside the park, the first structure seen is a Venetian Tower. A few meters away are the ruins of Butrint.

Like several Greek cities, the ruins of a parthenon is perched on a hill above.

Next stop was to the resort city of Saranda, a much sought after seaside getaway where I was treated to a feast of fresh seafood – deep water fish, langoustine, squid and Butrint Lake mussels. After stuffing myself, it was time to drive through the long but scenic road to Tirana through verdant hills, fertile valleys, deserted beaches, pastures with cattle, sheep and goats, fruit producing orchards, abandoned forts, rustic villages, and even a submarine bunker built by the communist regime at the northern end of Porto Palermo bay.

76 | expat

16

I was glad to finally return to Tirana and be back in the Sheraton Hotel, Albania’s most elegant 5-star hotel, where the staff is professional, the rooms are comfortable and the breakfast is scrumptious. After a short rest, I went to Coin Department Store, a fashion emporium not far from the hotel in the Ujvara neighborhood (another hotspot where cafés, bars, restaurants and shops can be found). Even the city market, selling all kinds of fresh and dried fruits, delicacies and other goods is in this area.

After purchasing a few gifts I retired for the night, ready for my last day in Albania.

After breakfast, I was picked up and driven to Durres, a seaside resort and Albania’s second largest city and largest port. The city is a mishmash of old and new that blend perfectly together. Most visitors head to the Durres Amphitheatre which was built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Emperor Trajan. Inside the half unearthed amphitheatre are staircases, galleries and an early Christian chapel. The amphitheatre is on UNESCO’s Tentative List.

18

GLOBAL VIEW SPOTTING >Albania

15

Expat tips: The most convenient way to visit the Balkans is via Turkish Airlines which departs daily from Manila’s Terminal 1 at 9:30 p.m., arriving in Istanbul at 4:30 a.m. in time to connect to any of the twice daily flights to the various capital cities and other key tourist destinations in the Balkan peninsula. Returning is just as favorable since flights back to Manila depart daily from Istanbul at 1:55 a.m., touching down in Manila at 6:40 p.m.

Turkish Airlines is now one of the world’s fastest growing airline companies and is considered the “Best Airline” in Europe. Its fleet consists of 317 aircraft (passenger and cargo) flying to a total of 241 international and 51 domestic destinations. Turkish Airlines has been a member of the Star Alliance network since 2008.

To book your own Balkans Odyssey, contact: Rajah Travel Corporation 3/F 331 Building, 331 Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati. For inquiries, call (02) 894-0886, (02) 8177903 (fax), e-mail: intltoursmkt@rajahtravel.com or visit www.rajahtravel.com.

Turkish Airlines 14/F BDO Equitable Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati. For inquiries, call (02) 894-5419 or (02) 894-5421 or (02) 864-0600 (Reservations), (02) 894-5419 (Sales), (02) 8640598 (telefax), e-mail: ticketing@thy.com.ph or mnlgroupdesk@thy.com.ph or visit www. turkishairlines.com.

17

19

(12)Gjirokastra Bazaar with the Citadel atop the hill (13)Stone-roofed Ottoman houses of Gjirokastra (14)Ruins of Butrint (15)Ali Pasha’s fortification at the mouth of the Vivari Channel in Butrint (16)The Greek island of Corfu is a mere 14 kms. from Saranda (17)A beach in Durres on Albania’s Adriatic Coast (18)The Blue Eye (19)Restaurants in Saranda serve delicious mussels from Butrint Lake

Durres and adjacent areas are on Albania’s Adriatic coast – therefore, they have sandy beaches as opposed to the pebble beaches on the Ionian Coast.

The golden sands and warm waters of the Adriatic lure countless sun worshipers from Albania and abroad during the summer months. Like Saranda, the seafood here is fresh, affordable and to die for. I had a terrific steamed fish and seafood stew that I still dream about.

After lunch it was time to get back to the hotel to get ready for my short flight to Istanbul from Tirana’s Nene Tereza International Airport. Why is Mother Teresa so popular in Albania? Because she is ethnic Albanian who was born in Skopje in Macedonia, which was then part of Kosovo.

I invite everyone to visit Albania and the rest of the Balkans. Next issue, we will visit Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Slovenia. I can’t wait to take you on another Balkan Odyssey.

expat | 77

GLOBAL VIEW

To the

Pearl of the Danube Text and photos by Timothy Jay Ibay Additional photos courtesy of the Hungarian Tourism Ltd.

78 | expat

and beyond

GLOBAL VIEW

From Roman ruins and Turkish monuments that stand side by side, to a unique cityscape with majestic architecture and charming ruin pubs, Expat samples the richly fused culture of Hungary Over the past decade, Filipinos have steadily become smitten with the allure of traveling, with a good number of us brown folk having some sort of permutation of the word “wanderlust” on our social media bios. Part of it is the cheaper airfare that’s allowed them to see more of the over 7,000 islands in this archipelago. Once they had a taste of that and the many adventures wandering entailed, casual Filipino travelers began exploring what their neighboring countries had to offer.

The gradual progression led to it being quite normal to see snaps of places like Paris, London, Maldives, Sydney and others

peppering the middleclass Pinoy social media feeds.

perfect state that allowed me to breathe in everything with awe and wonder.

Frequently absent though from travel bucket lists (ticked off or otherwise) are the Central European countries – perhaps left under the shadow cast by its more popular western counterparts (and of course that of the fallen Iron Curtain). So when the tourism board of the Visegrád Four (Hungary, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Poland) extended an invite to Discover Central Europe, I came on board with close to zero preconceived notions about the four countries – which turned out to be ideal; the

Hungarian sophistication One of the largest cities in the European Union, and one of the most popular in the world (according to London-based international research firm Euromonitor), Budapest, would be the first stop of the Discover Central Europe media familiarization trip organized by the Hungarian National Tourism organization in partnership with the respective tourism boards of Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Poland. Hungary’s political, cultural,

expat | 79

GLOBAL VIEW

1

commercial, industrial and transportation center, Budapest, has emerged as one of the most attractive touristic cities in the world. And following the short drive from the Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport to the city center along Andrassy Avenue, it was clear why the capital city is as esteemed as it is.

From the more industrial districts that surround the airport, Budapest is quick to transmogrify and show off its endearing aesthetics, thanks in large part to its preserved architecture that is a majestic mix of all that is world renowned.

From the Gothic and Neo-Gothic (Hungarian Parliament Building and the Matthias Church), to Renaissance and Neo-Renaissance (Hungarian State Opera House, St. Stephen’s Cathedral), to Baroque, Classical, Art Nouveau; Budapest blends them all in a truly unique cityscape where historic and contemporary designs brilliantly co-exist.

Brewin’ ruins One of the newest in Budapest, Hotel Moments would be our home base for the two nights we spent in the capital – a pragmatic choice as, nestled along the elegant tree-lined thoroughfare that is Andrassy Avenue, it is right at the center of urban Pest side’s tourist trail.

While regular tourist spots like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Vörösmarty Square, the State Opera House, Heroes Square and the cafés along the Danube banks are the places you’re most likely to hit if you go on a regular tour, what personally caught my fancy were Budapest’s ruin pubs – bars in or next to an old building that, instead of being taken down, have been repurposed as bohemian pubs that open up into a completely new world once you venture beyond their crumbly façades.

Having purposely done almost no research prior to the trip, that pre-spring day would be the first time I would hear about ruin pubs – and the subsequent discovery, I found, was magical.

80 | expat

4

Szimpla Kert (located in the city’s Jewish Quarter), perhaps the most famed ruin pub of them all, typifies the overall look of the herd. You have a couch at one corner that upon closer inspection was a bath tub in its former life; there’s a collection of cassette tapes (remember those things?) backlit as wall art; handmade paper statues and lanterns, while the spaces not decorated with photos and trinketry are painted by young contemporary artists – a seemingly meandering medley of colors, crafts and random objects adorning its multi-level interiors that result in a social hub that’s totally hipster, yet utterly welcoming.

Oh, and did I mention that a pint of wheat beer goes for just a little over Є1 (or just about PhP65—exponentially less than what it would cost you to get the same in places like Makati or BGC)?

Split personality From the buzzing, bourgeois and cosmopolitan feel of the city’s Pest side, we crossed the Danube over to the hillscape of the Buda side to experience Castle Hill – the city’s historical focal point. While

7

(1)The richly-decorated neo-Renaissance State Opera House (2)The Széchenyi Thermal Bath – the largest medicinal bath in Europe (3)Regatta on the Danube with the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building as the backdrop (4)The stunning Fisherman’s Bastion (5,7)A glimpse into one corner of Szimpla Kert; (6)A stable in its former life, Gál Tibor Fusion has been beautifully reinvented as the hippest wine bar in Northern Hungary (8) St. Stephen’s Cathedral

GLOBAL VIEW

2

3

5

some of the district’s main elements like the Buda Royal Palace are no longer in its original form due to the damages brought by over 30 sieges, the subsequent reconstructions over several periods has rendered the district with a fascinating mix of architectural styles.

There, you can have your fill of Hungary’s culture and heritage with ancient monuments, medieval cobbled streets, 18th and 19th century structures, the iconic Matthias Church, as well as the newly restored Varkert Bazaar being among the choice of touristic sites to see.

Should you find your way to this side of the Hungarian capital, you can’t miss having a glass (or three) of champagne atop Fisherman’s Bastion’s (Halászbástya) fairytale-esque turrets that provide stunning sweeping panoramas of the Chain Bridge and over to the Pest side – lending you a visual take on Budapest’s split personality.

Valley of Beautiful Women Eger, the second largest city in Northern Hungary is primarily known for three things:

8

6

its thermal baths, cuisine and wine. And when we passed by the city (less than two hours from Budapest), we were fortunate enough to have a full-on experience of the latter two at Gál Tibor Fusion – a stylishly hip 1,400-square meter complex made up of a 500-year-old Tuff wine cellar, a wine bar and shop, lounge, and wine tasting room that can accommodate 120 people.

“The building itself is a masterpiece, which intertwines traditional and modern styles, connecting the past with the present.

The Fusion merges quality entertainment with a high level gastronomical and wine experience. Any visit to Eger is incomplete without stopping by Gál Tibor Fusion.”

That’s from Gál Tibor Fusion’s website. And it is absolutely spot on.

Presently, the Gál Tibor winery produces three brands (Egri Csillag, Pinot Noir and Egri Bikavér [Bull’s Blood of Eger]) and six wines—all of which are downright divine.

Having sampled all six during the wine tasting dinner, I was hopeful to take home at least a bottle or two. I wound up taking expat | 81

GLOBAL VIEW SPOTTING >Budapest

For more information on traveling to Central and Eastern Europe, please contact Menchie B. Gregorio, Managing Director at Travel Excellence Corp. at (02) 892-6006 and (02) 892-6012, or visit their office at Room 421, Peninsula Court Bldg., 8735 Paseo de Roxas cor. Makati Ave., Makati.

8

four for just…check this, around PhP1,200 (or about US$7 a bottle). Incredible. It’s just hard to fathom finding a better deal than that anywhere in the world, and a better setting yet to enjoy such.

And while it was an absolute joy to sample some of Eger’s offerings thru Fusion, it also gave a taste that left us eager (pun slightly intended) to experience more of Hungary’s most well known wine region. Accounts abound of how Eger uniquely boasts of dozens of wineries – each of which operates small cellars in what is dubbed the Valley of Beautiful Women – translating into the wine version of a pub crawl (and could very well explain why the region was named as such).

Horsing around If you’re on the lookout for more unique Hungarian experiences, another place to hit is Lázár Equestrian Park, situated some 35 kilometers from Budapest in the heart of Domonyvölgy. If Eger was a calmer, watered (or wined) down version of the capital, the resort serves as a total city escape being nestled among the visually

soothing lakes of the Gödöllő Hills, and having the backdrop of greens as far as the eye can see.

Owned by coach driving world champion brothers Vilmos and Zoltan Lázár, the resort offers regular horse demonstrations that include carriage driving displays, nomad warrior archery/spear exhibitions, horsemen skills showcase, and a theatrical equestrian show, among a slew of other horse-powered fun. There’s a mini zoo (ideal for kids), two stables that are home to over 90 world-class horses, and lodges where up to 750 guests can enjoy the best of the Hungarian cuisine (best Hungarian sausage during the entire trip!) to the backdrop of Gipsy music.

In no world is it possible to have your complete fill of Hungary in just three days, but our brief sampling of the country’s character, heritage and history sufficed to birth a longing to come back and dive deeper into its vibrant culture—one that possesses a sophisticated, yet welcoming charm that‘s sure to leave a mark.

10

82 | expat

To learn more about Hungary and the rest of Central Europe, visit www.gotohungary.com and www.discover-ce.eu

9

(8)The demonstrations at Lázár Equestrian Park make for a truly unique Hungarian experience (9) This delicious platter at Lázár Equestrian Park is an absolute must-try (10)These long-wooled racka sheep are part of the Lázár Equestrian Park’s collection of traditional Hungarian farm animals (11) Hit the wine bottle with the whip and it’s yours to take home

11

GRUB HUB

Read up on a couple of hip and happening spots in BGC, and how their trendy aesthetics are only transcended by their delectable fare; get to know Amacena and Neilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; two establishments that have taken the re-imagination of Filipino cuisine to a new (succulent) high; dive into the local craft beer scene and allow your palate to experience the flavors of Pinoy creativity; and find out how local spirit lambanog could just be the next big thing

expat | 83

GRUB HUB

Let the flavors do the talking Feast on deliciously bold Modern Filipino food statements at Neil’s Kitchen Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

It is very possibly safe to assume that we were all, at some point or another throughout our childhood, chided thusly: ”Don’t play with your food!” While wellmeaning parents the world over would defend the scolding (which was perhaps delivered along with the wagging motion of the pointer finger), there is one child who most likely did not listen to this rebuke. And foodies the Metro over are now grateful for the non-compliance.

Neil Francis Ramos – the gourmet guru behind Neil’s Kitchen in Alabang – has been playing with his food, in a manner of speaking, for some years now. And the result is a wide array of exciting dishes all poised to titillate even the most discriminating and trained of palates.

Unexpected, pleasant surprises One look at the menu of Neil’s Kitchen and it is evident that the man behind the food loves to experiment and create. “I just listened to what my heart wanted to create,” shared Ramos, in reference to the lengthy roster of his take on the Modern Filipino cuisine offered at the restaurant, which he opened with wife and business partner Michelle Balaguer Ramos in 2008.

Neil’s Kitchen is a happy amalgam of whimsical, eclectic interiors

84 | expat

Unexpected, pleasant surprises are in store for diners, and the whimsically, cleverly designed aesthetic of the establishment provides inkling to this. Think artsy chairs mounted on walls, strategically emblazoned quirky food quotes, vintage curio items on display, even a reading nook-cumbookstore, and such. Like the delightfully eclectic interiors which are at once charming as they are offbeat, the items on the menu are a masterful adventure into bold flavors and unlikely combinations which work in wonderful, palatable ways.

GRUB HUB

“

I basically want to put Filipino food on the global map, by continuously creating and cooking from the heart and by rendering the best possible service in terms of food quality”

In-your-face goodness Ramos’ creations make for in-your-face goodness; literally and figuratively. There is nothing shy or diminutive about these dishes, which are tasty with a Capital T, and loaded with scintillating sensory pleasures. The Sinigang Paella with Grilled Pork Belly is a happy marriage of local Filipino sour soup with Spanish-style rice, served with crispy cuts of tender pork belly, topped with lightly battered, crispy fried kangkong (water spinach) leaves. The tart tamarind flavor infused rice provides the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the pork, with the spinach adding a nice crunch. Bestselling rice dishes likewise include the Paella Valenciana with Spanish Tempura, and the Bagoong Paella with Kare-Kare. The former is an inventive union of traditional Spanish rice, with breaded deep-fried shrimp meant to be dipped in a glorious concoction of saffron aioli sauce; while the latter is a fresh take on a classic Filipino favorite, this time with shrimp paste flavored rice and a savory stew of meats and veggies in a thick peanut sauce.

Yet another winning cross-cultural combo is the Boneless Chicken Inasal with Hainanese Rice, which lends an innovative touch to the local grilled favorite originally from Bacolod City. Noodle-lovers are in for a

treat with a helping of Crab Fat Palabok; fettuccine pasta swathed in creamy, fullbodied crab fat sauce, topped with squid covered in seasoned breading and fried to a hearty crunch.

While dessert may seem too much of a guilty pleasure, at Neil’s Kitchen, it is best to forget the guilt and savor the pleasure. Choose your indulgence, but do be sure to try the Fried Suman, Mangga and Chocnut; lightly sweetened sticky rice with a generous topping of mango jelly and crumbled peanut chocolate. Also on the must-try list is the super delectable Puto Bungbong with Buco Jelly and Toasted Coconut; a festive blend of sticky rice, flavored with purple yam and steamed in a tube, loaded with coconut jelly and toasted coconut bits. Yum! Happy smiles and full bellies As with all those who cook from the heart, Ramos says his biggest reward is to see the satisfaction on his customers’ faces.

“To see and hear all the happy responses and reviews about the food; I just see [my customers’] smiles and that’s good enough for me,” Ramos shared.

Diners leave with happy smiles and full bellies, as well as with an awareness of the

(from top left, clockwise) Neil’s Kitchen modern Filipino favorites: Boneless Chicken Inasal with Hainanese Rice, Sinigang Paella with Grilled Pork Belly; Puto Bungbong with Buco Jelly and Toasted Coconut; Fried Suman with Mangga and Chocnut; Bagoong Paella with Kare-Kare; Crab Fat Palabok; Paella Valencia with Spanish Tempura

possibilities and vast potential of Philippine cuisine.

“I basically want to put Filipino food on the global map,” Ramos pointed out, as he added that he intends to do so by continuously creating and “cooking from the heart” and by rendering “the best possible service in terms of food quality.”

Allow the fusion and profusion of flavors at Neil’s Kitchen to speak to you: these are most likely saying – in a playful yet confidently self-assured food fashion – “Count the memories, not the calories.”

Neil’s Kitchen is located at Lot C 701 and 704 Westgate Filinvest, Alabang, Muntinlupa City expat | 85

GRUB HUB

Food junkie’s haven Hankering for your next food fix? Head on over to Pablo’s Pub and Restaurant Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

Don’t let the name’s sinister implications throw you off: yes, Pablo’s Pub and Restaurant was named after notorious Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar; no, there is nothing shady about this establishment. A word of warning, however; this fabulous food den peddles dishes as addictive as Escobar’s illicit ware, and one visit is guaranteed to turn you into a veritable junkie for all things delicious. All

things Pablo’s, to be more precise.

Inspirations and addictions The brainchild of a group of young urban professionals, friends, and partners-in-food (namely, Atty. Nicolo Villonco, recording artist Miguel Escueta, real estate broker Nathania Villonco, former head hunter Jam Mabanta, and stock broker Javier Mabanta), Pablo’s opened in September

(Top)Pablo’s popular dish, The Classic Burger, in quarter-pound size (Circle) The Big Heist is a dessert that is well-worth every calorie (Left) Comfort food on the menu, for your dining satisfaction

86 | expat

2013 and has been well-received from the get-go.

“Pablo’s was inspired by Pablo Escobar.

Before we opened, there were a lot of places named after ‘bad-ass’ gang leaders – we felt that Pablo Escobar was the ‘baddest bad-ass of them all,’ Pablo’s managing partner and co-founder, Miguel Escueta quipped, lightheartedly. “The vibe of Pablo’s was created envisioning how Pablo Escobar would treat his guests – with the people most special to him having our secret board room to stay in.”

Dark and elegant interiors – reminiscent of a gentlemen’s club circa the Chicago prohibition era – lend themselves well to the suave feel of the place, with the “secret board room” (a VIP room) hidden behind a sliding bookcase. Pablo’s exudes an air of mystery and sophistication that have made the venue a favorite for the trendy, professional set of urbanites.

“On most days, Pablo’s caters to the working crowd in BGC. We have a great daily Happy Hour and a lot of the office people in the area choose Pablo’s on Friday nights to de-stress and loosen

GRUB HUB

“

Our philosophy here is that comfort food shouldn’t be expensive.

If you want to feast on a burger or enjoy great appetizers with a beer, we feel that you shouldn’t have to pay an arm and a leg to do so”

up. We’ve got great DJs on weekends.

Saturdays, though, our crowd is a lot younger – late college to yuppies in the age range of 21 to 30,” Escueta elaborated.

Regulars of the restaurant enjoy the atmosphere, no doubt. But it is the food that gets them hooked: addicted and craving more.

Just gotta’ have it Newbies to Pablo’s will find that there is a wide range of comfort food on the menu, and one item that is a crowd favorite is The Classic Burger. Available in onefourth or half-pound patty, this premium all-beef burger (made extra tasty by Pablo’s signature marinade), with American cheddar, house burger sauce, lettuce and tomato is a juicy, hearty feast to the last bite. For the ultimate indulgence, enjoy your burger with a side of Spam Fries – beerbattered Spam strips deep-fried to crisp perfection, served with rich aioli dip.

Another must-have on the menu is the Grilled Chicken Jambalaya; succulent chicken breast smothered in savory pesto sauce, paired with tangy Jambalaya rice and boiled veggies. The seasoning of this dish is spot-on, with just a hint of spice; an overall palate pleaser!

On the roster of favorites, as well, are the Pablo’s Pub Platter (a generous shareable sampler of Spicy Chicken Tenders, Garlic Mushrooms, Fish Fingers, Calamari and Potato Chips) and the Sisig Taco (the popular Filipino dish made from diced and sauteed pig face wrapped in pita bread, topped with mayo, chives, special sauce) and Pablo’s famous Chicharon bulaklak, which is deep-fired pork offal).

Satisfy your sweet tooth with a helping of The Big Heist; a large, freshly baked chocolate chip cookie topped with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream, drizzled with chocolate syrup, and ensconced within fine strands of

(Top L) French fries meet luncheon meat in Pablo’s Spam Fries (R) Pablo’s well-stocked bar; (Bottom L) Succulent Grilled Chicken Jambalaya (R) Chic and elegant interiors create a sophisticated vibe at Pablo’s

caramelized pulled sugar. This will definitely make away with your diet (and this is a guess, but maybe THAT is the big heist!), but there’s always tomorrow and this dessert is so worth it!

Best deals in town While you might expect such high-quality, addictive goodness to come at an equally high price, fear not: Pablo’s prices are reasonable, for what you get.

“Our philosophy here is that comfort food shouldn’t be expensive. If you want to feast on a burger or enjoy great appetizers with a beer, we feel that you shouldn’t have to pay an arm and a leg to do so. I would say that our pricing is very competitive for the BGC area,” Escueta said.

Give in to your gustatory cravings at Pablo’s; your food high beckons!

Pablo’s Pub and Restaurant is located at the 2nd Flr., The Forum, 7th Avenue Corner Federacion Drive, Bonifacio Global City expat | 87

GRUB HUB

Forget the fedora, just feast on the food Drool over scrumptious menu offerings at hip and happening hangout, Frank & Dean

and Martin, the attitude lives on at Frank & Dean (Café x Kitchen); one of Bonifacio Global City’s newest hip hotspots for great coffee, seriously crave-worthy food, and cool-cat camaraderie.

“Frank & Dean is really about our coffee, pizza and fried chicken; three products that Filipinos love. There are so many coffee joints, pizza and chicken places, but we wanted to offer them all at high quality under one roof, in a place that’s hip and cool,” shared Miguel Escueta, one of the restaurant’s founders and managing partners.

FxD = Third wave coffee + killer chicken + perfect pizza (and more) Also known as FxD, Frank & Dean opened

“These are the things that we want people to come back for; again and again,” he added.

Terxt by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

Mention famed Rat Packers Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin, and images of alcohol binges and women chasing, mafiaassociating crooner-actors very possibly come to mind. In short: ATTITUDE. On-theedge attitude, to be precise. This notoriety, after all – deserved or otherwise – is in great part what helped fuel the Pack’s Hollywood success. Named after Sinatra

(Top) Frank & Dean’s interiors make for a cozy yet hip ambiance (Right) Bestselling dishes, Eggs Benedict with Bacon, and the All-Meat Pizza

88 | expat

its doors to the hungry public in July 2015.

Founded by the same creative minds behind Pablo’s Pub and Restaurant, Frank & Dean is committed to artisanal coffee with a kick, killer fried chicken, and perfect pizza (though this is not to say that the other items on the menu are lackluster – options abound, and each dish is as mouthwatering as the other).

GRUB HUB

“

There are so many coffee joints, pizza and chicken places, but we wanted to offer them all at high quality under one roof, in a place that’s hip and cool”

What makes their specialties so special?

Flavor, quality, and a whole lot more flavor. Escueta was at the helm of menu development, and injected flavors he sampled while traveling overseas. The restaurant’s managing partners also enlisted the help of Joyce Glinoga, who trained at The Culinary Institute of America in New York. “She curated most of our allday breakfast items,” Escueta noted.

“We’re also proud to say that we were the first recognized third wave coffee shop – non-chain coffee places that serve and promote high-quality, artisanal coffee – in BGC. Our pizza is inspired by New York Slice and our Fried Chicken is based on Southern Flavor in the United States,” he explained.

Food with attitude With a rather lengthy menu loaded with deliciousness, it can prove challenging to select a dish at FxD. Each item is chockfull of attitude that says: “Try me, or you’ll regret it!” Must-try’s, of course, are the coffee, fried chicken and pizza. Even the most notorious of mobsters will be appeased by a helping of beautifully seasoned Southern Fried Chicken, breaded in a signature FxD recipe, and then fried to delightful crispiness to tantalize the taste buds. Go all-out

and have the chicken with a waffle (with homemade maple syrup) or a freshly baked doughnut – bordering on sinful, but wellworth every calorie.

The All-Meat Pizza is likewise a bestseller, and for good reason: generous portions of pepperoni, bacon, ground beef, ham, and mozzarella cheese team-up for the ultimate in pizza pleasure. Unless requested otherwise FxD’s 12-inch pizza pies are purposely cut into four slices only, to allow one to “hold-and-fold” for a mouthful of flavor.

All-day breakfast items like the One-Eyed Jack (one egg, over-easy, embedded in a slice of brioche bread, with ham and cheddar, drizzled with maple syrup), and to-drool-for Eggs Benedict on Brioche (two poached eggs, with either bacon or salmon, brioche bread, topped with rich hollandaise, with a side of house greens) are always in demand. Other popular treats include Truffle Cream Pasta, and Raclette Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Marinara Dip. As for coffee, the Long Black – brewed from 100 percent Arabica – is a winning pickerupper. Meanwhile, Frank’s Espresso Shake – with its ice-blended espresso topped with vanilla ice cream – is a refreshing hit.

(Clockwise) Ocean Telephone Company’s elegant look and quirky vintage telephones; Frank & Dean’s community board, for the new breed of Packers; Perfectly seasoned Southern Fried Chicken, enjoyed with homemade waffles or doughnut; Homemade doughnuts are best paired with specialty coffees such as the Long Black and Frank’s Espresso Shake

Fedoras not required While the vibe at FxD is definitely hip and millennial (which caters to the new Pack), it is also quirky and cozy – somewhere a Rat Packer would likely kick back, relax, and enjoy the scenery. For some serious partying, FxD boasts a speakeasy, Ocean’s Telephone Co., located on the second floor. With its wood-and-leather clad interiors, OTC exudes a sophisticated and exciting feel.

“For us, if Frank Sinatra wanted to have a meeting about music, he’d have coffee in Frank & Dean. If a VIP like JFK came to town, Sinatra would take him to Ocean’s Telephone Co. – our secret place upstairs through the red phone booth,” Escueta pointed out.

OTC is the scene of many-a-vibrant nights, and has quickly become a favorite hangout of the younger, trendier mob squad. The beauty of the setup is that one can opt to chill at FxD when one has had their fill of OTC’s oft-frenetic fun.

Feast on the food. Indulge in the frenzy.

Attitude is optional (the place has enough to go around), and fedoras not required. Don’t tell Ol’ Blue Eyes.

Frank & Dean is located at the first floor of Forbes Town Center, Forbes Town Road corner 26th St., Bonifacio Global City expat | 89

GRUB HUB

DOP: Denomination of Origin Philippines

Expat contributor, restaurateur and sommelier Paolo Nesi looks at the local spirit industry and makes the case for the potential rise of lambanog Text by Paolo Nesi

The Philippines is home to some of the largest spirit brands in the world.

According to the 2014 Drinks International Millionaires Club report, local brandy company Emperador was second only to Ginro Soju of Korea in total number of sales for the year, moving 33 million cases in 2014.

Ginebra San Miguel’s gin took eight place with 19 million, while Tanduay Rhum took 12th position with 17 million cases (just behind the world famous Cuban Bacardi that sold 18.1 million).

The three “lokal” brands together sold 69 million cases of booze in 2014, mainly in the Philippine market, which translates to a whopping 828 million bottles of spirits or 2.2 million bottles sold every day throughout the Philippines!!

90 | expat

“

I know that many Filipinos think of lambanog as a harsh, punchy, un-elegant poor man’s drink, but that was once the case for gin in England, vodka in Sweden and wine in Italy”

The largest wine brand in terms of sales in the Philippines? Another “lokal” start up – Nonoy Quimbo’s family affair, Novellino, which according to Euromonitor, sold almost seven million bottles of vino in 2014.

True, all of these products are in the inexpensive price bracket in their respective categories, but signs of high quality versions are emerging: Don Papa Rum is a success story by a former executive of a global spirit company, who set up his distillery in the middle of the sugar production area in Negros, imported American oak barrels, designed a prizewinning label, and came up with a product that is now available worldwide, and has earned some very positive accolades along the way.

Toast to culture Many countries are associated with their cultural beverage such as Japan with sake (Nihon Shu) Korea with soju, Nordic countries with vodka, the Caribbean with rum, France with wine and so on. The Philippines? Lambanog!

Yes, I know that many Filipinos think of lambanog as a harsh, punchy, un-elegant poor man’s drink, but that was once the case for gin in England, vodka in Sweden and wine in Italy. Things in those countries have changed, as they now produce their respective “cultural” drinks with high quality, which are famous all around the world.

“

Dhruvarahjs at ml.wikipedia

GRUB HUB

The production starts with collection of sap from the unopened flower of a coconut tree – a sugary liquid that, with addition of yeasts from the atmosphere, ferment into some sort of ‘coconut wine’ locally called tuba that has an alcoholic content of about 4%”

Unfortunately for lambanog, the old aura still exists. And while distillers such as Lakan are trying to change that, the stigma of the unrefined, poor man’s drink still generally persists.

that I created for personal enjoyment long ago, which are still favorites among friends.

So the question is whether lambanog has a future as an international quality product? I would go with yes, and here is why.

I wonder how many of you have actually tasted lambanog. Purchasing it for a pasalubong would not qualify – I mean drank lambanog.

As said, lambanog is a high-strength (45% ABV), strong with aromas, full of spunk and spirit, but also one that lacks sophistication of a modern general spirit. It is not easy to use it in cocktails because unlike, say, vodka or gin, lambanog flavors dominate.

Lambanog 101 What is lambanog anyway? The production starts with collection of sap from the unopened flower of a coconut tree – a sugary liquid that, with addition of yeasts from the atmosphere, ferment into some sort of “coconut wine” locally called tuba that has an alcoholic content of about 4%. The tuba is then distilled and alcohol is extracted through heating as vapor and condensed back as a liquid with an alcoholic strength of 40 to 50%. This is now lambanog. Lambanog with its highly flavored and bold aromas makes it more similar to tequila than vodka.

I have played with lambanog for many years, including concocting dalandan (orange) or dayap (lime) scented lambanog

Re-imagining lambanog In my view, with the proper equipment that can control the temperature of the distillation (steady to the boiling point of alcohol) and a more “generous” cut of the head and the tail (the first 20 percent and the last 20 percent of the spirit that come out from the distillation), we could achieve a smoother spirit. It could then be re-distilled one or two more times to strip and clarify it even more from the unwanted flavors as they do at Lakan, but, unlike Lakan, we could bring our lambanog down to a maximum of 40% ABV or even lower to enhance its drinkability and be more gentle in cocktails. Few years in a barrel and we could have the color and the

complexity of a Tequila Anejo.

And as an after dinner drink; a flavored lambanog could become very a fashionable.

Here is a recipe for a nice after dinner lambanog: First, get one liter of the best lambanog you can buy, transfer it into a glass jar that can be stoppered, and add the zest (use a grater or mini primer and make sure you only get the green part) of 20 calamansi.

Close the lid and place it in a dark place for three weeks, mixing the content every three days.

After three weeks, filter the content and add 20 deciliters of distilled or good quality drinking water (this is to reduce the alcohol strength) and 100 grams of sugar syrup (basically 100 grams of sugar dissolved with a table spoon of water over heat) and let it cool down to room temperature.

Place it back in a dark place for a couple of weeks more, after which you can place it into a freezer and enjoy it the refreshing results after dinner.

Lambanog is only in the Philippines and it is classified as a geographical indicator, therefore no other country around the world can use the name. Think about it, “Lambanog, Denomination of Origin Philippines, DOP.” expat | 91

GRUB HUB

Local Re-imagination

Discover Amacena and Chef Luigi Muhlach’s brand new menu filled with timeless local favorites redesigned for the modern palate Text by Timothy Jay Ibay

“

Filipinos [in general] are very loyal to their cuisine, and yet very adventurous when it comes to trying new things. I wanted to touch on that“

Perhaps it’s due to the many weekend road trips the family took when they were young; or maybe it’s brought about by cherished memories from any of the random forays they took with their crew during adolescence. Whatever it is, Tagaytay remains a go-to destination (despite the increasing density of the city) for Metro Manila and southern Luzon folk – mainly for the view, the usually cooler

breeze that pervades, and, Filipinos being the dining crazy lot they are – the grub.

And while the Tagaytay dining scene has evolved way beyond the staple that is bulalo (bone marrow broth to the uninitiated) and into a smorgasbord of cuisines and flavors, a new player has come in with a fresh approach on the familiar; a creative and innovative take on Pinoy favorites that result in a dining destination you can’t miss.

“The menu I designed is not far from home,” Amacena Executive Chef Luigi Muhlach tells Expat. “Filipinos [in general] are very loyal to their cuisine, and yet very adventurous when it comes to trying new things. I wanted to touch on that.“ “I designed our menu based on what I love eating as a Filipino, but adjusted it to the different improved techniques that I learned through my career as a chef.”

One would be quick to visually spot the re-imagining of beloved Filipino fare when dining at One Tagaytay Hotel Suites’ Amacena. Take Chef Luigi’s Crispy US Beef Short Rib Kare-Kare, which boasts of the

92 | expat

GRUB HUB

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

customary homegrown taste revered by most Pinoy homes, yet is plated in a way that would get a global second take.

“Instead of using oxtail, I replaced that with US short ribs and cooked it sous vide for 24 hours and deep-fried to get a nice caramelization outside of the ribs. This results in it being very crispy, yet really tender,” Chef Luigi explains of his take on the Filipino dish that has never looked as good, and rarely tasted better.

And the creative tinkering with the local palate persists throughout Amacena’s overhauled menu.

The renowned adobo is cloaked as Italian bruschetta, but topped with adobo (shredded and fried to a crisp) with Tagaytay local white cheese, paired with a refreshing grape salsa.

While the local beefsteak (colloquially called bistek) is draped in onion crisps and soy-mansi (soy sauce + calamansi) gravy, giving it a familiar flavor, but because masked in gravy texture, gives Amacena’s Smokin’ Bistek a comfortingly welcome local surprise.

“I have a penchant for all things Filipino, and I’m a firm believer of supporting local.

I’ve crafted an array of Filipino classics, offered with Western flair. Our dishes here at Amacena are either traditional Filipino recipes, or Tagaytay local recipes,” adds Chef Luigi, while also pointing out that all their fresh fruits and vegetables are sourced from Tagaytay’s local markets and farms.

Yes, there is no dearth of dining options when you find yourself in Tagaytay. But if it’s something new yet beautifully familiar you want, One Tagaytay Hotel Suites’ Amacena is a pit stop that’s a wise choice to make.

(1)Anything off the redesigned Amacena menu is a sure win (2)What goes perfectly with re-imagined local fare? Ice cold local craft beer, of course! (3)Adobo Flakes Bruschetta (4)24-hour Sous Vide Crispy Pork Bely with Monggo Puree (5)Chocolate Lava Cake (6)Amacena Paella (7)Organic Tomato Salad (8)Chicken Inasal and Chicharon, Crusted Corn on the Cob with Mexican Rice

Amacena is located at One Tagaytay Place Hotel Suites, 445 Tagaytay-Calamba Road, Barrio Sungay West, Tagaytay City. For more information, contact (02) 584-4111, (0917) 8157245 or visit www.onetagaytayplace.com expat | 93

GRUB HUB

Honing their Craft

A revolution has been on the brew over the past five years – some have dubbed it a “brew-mance” – born from exposure to a world of flavors; exposure that led to discontent with what was locally available; birthing a thirst for something better. And years after honing their “craft,” the Philippine beer landscape is more vibrant than ever.

Have a gander at the local breweries leading both the revolution and the evolution of the country’s craft beer palate.

Text by Timothy Jay Ibay

1

Baguio Craft Brewery The common thread among all the brewers on this list is the exposure to a world with a mélange of flavors by way of beers, and the tailing realization that home needed a similar breadth of choices.

Baguio Craft Brewery (BCB) founder (although he also goes by the designations Chief Executioner / Thirst Prevention Officer) Chris Ordas’ time spent living in Canada led to the weekend hobby of brewing beer from his garage. Going on holiday back to his native land turned that hobby into an advocacy – one that would benefit the Philippines’ increasingly adventurous beer palate.

94 | expat

And boy, have they been prolific in championing the cause. Celebrating just their second year this June, BCB has concocted a total of 42 varieties, of which 20 beers are in rotation at The Tasting Room – THE beer haven in Baguio.

While the local palate is naturally inclined to their tropical fruit beers, more sophisticated tastes have BCB’s strong brews (10-12% ABV) to look forward to (Zigzagger – a Triple Hop Imperial IPA is recommended by Ordas, while this writer was easily enamored by Pugaw). Suffice to say, with the wide range of flavors available at BCB, everyone (non beer drinkers included) will have their fill.

referring to the rooftop section of The Tasting Room, which apart from excellent craft beers, boasts of gorgeous views of Baguio.

And to get the full BCB experience, head over to The Tasting Room just along Marcos Highway.

“We are constantly growing plants that give the place more of a Baguio feel. Since we also do a lot of recycling, all our broken equipment like beer kegs were converted to planters,” he adds, also mentioning that they grow their own herbs and spices for the grub they serve.

“There have been a lot of changes especially in the Biergarten,” Ordas shares,

“Our mantra hasn’t changed, and we’ll always brew the best craft beers in the

GRUB HUB Where to get ‘em uBurgerPub,

The Grove by Rockwell, Pasig

uBig

BGC

Bad Wolf, Burgos Circle,

uBurgers

and Brewskies, Burgos Circle, BGC; Capitol Commons, Pasig

uPico

country,” Ordas boldly claims. “We are very passionate about what we do and it brings us total satisfaction every time a customer appreciates our products. We invite everyone to taste the difference between the rest and us.”

Deli, Kapitolyo, Pasig

uSigs

Baguio Craft Brewery is located at RKC Building, 120 Marcos Highway, Km 4, Baguio City. For more information, visit www. baguiocraftbrewery.com or email info@ baguiocraftbrewery.com

Smokehouse, Maginhawa St., Quezon City

Where to get ‘em uGino’s

Brick Oven Pizza (Salcedo Village, Makati; Podium Mall, Ortigas; Serendra, BGC)

uSmoky

Bastard, Century City Mall, Makati

uThe

Bottle Shop (Paseo de Magallanes; Net One Plaza, BGC)

uThe

Butcher Shop, Bonifacio High Street, BGC

2

uThe

Perfect Pint (all branches)

Katipunan Craft Ales One of the first local microbreweries to break through the mainstream beer drinking consciousness, the people behind Katipunan have stayed committed to providing new craft beer drinkers delicious baselines in their understanding of craft beer by sticking to classic beer styles when formulating their recipes.

uEarth

Kitchen, White Plains, Quezon City

uThe Clean Plate, UP uCenter, Quezon City

Town

uTalas

Manileno Barbershop, Cubao Expo, Quezon City

“We don’t veer too much outside of the box,” understates Raffy Taruc, one of the founders of Katipunan Craft Ales.

“A pale ale will have a nice balance between sweet malt and hop bitterness. A stout will be dark with roasted malt character and chocolate/coffee flavors and aromas. There’s still a lot of leeway with what type and combinations of hops and malts you can use, but we generally try to follow style guidelines. We feel this makes our beers more accessible,” adds Taruc, who acknowledges that despite the continually growing acceptance of craft beer, the industry is still very much a niche market.

Years after introducing the local palate to a different world of beers, Katipunan’s Indio Pale Ale (often succinctly describe as citrusy with a slight bitter kick) remains the company’s most popular brew.

“Indio Pale Ale will always be a sentimental favorite,” shares Taruc.

“You could say it was the beer that got all this going. The process of tweaking the recipe, inebriating friends to gather feedback and finally selling beer for actual money was a very exciting stage and convinced us to drop everything and start Katipunan. But every new beer we’ve brewed since – Weizenberg, Signal No. 1 Stout, Dear Fred, all of them – brings that excitement and energy back. Last year, The Perfect Pint in BGC wanted to feature IPAs, and we had a lot of fun coming up with our own – Three Hops and a Hop. Creative projects like those are the lifeblood of a small brewery like ours (and something that the big guys are ill-equipped to do).”

still wholly involved in every minute of the process so the joy of brewing and bottling and educating hasn’t been lost on us. Our goal from the start was very simple - to brew beers we like. So we can guarantee that we’d never put out something we wouldn’t enjoy ourselves. We’ve long maintained that craft beers rival wine in both complexity and pairability with food.

Our Indio Pale Ale, for instance, pairs perfectly with a good burger and fries.

Signal No. 1 Stout complements desserts or anything that echoes its roasted malt backbone, like barbecue. If they’ve never tried craft beer, or local craft beer for that matter, now is as good a time as any.”

Adding, “We’ve come a long way in terms of scale and reach but we’re basically the same little brewery that could. We’re all

For more information, contact (0916) 6677862 or email ask@katipunancraft.com

expat | 95

GRUB HUB Where to get ‘em uThe

Perfect Pint (all branches)

uBackyard

branches)

and Kitchen Brew (all

uSmoky

Bastard, Century City Mall, Makati

uTambai

Snackhouse, Poblacion, Makati

uNiner Ichi Nana, 32nd St. cor. 7th Ave., BGC uThe

Hungry Hound, Globe Tower, 32nd St. cor. 7th Ave., BGC

3

Joe’s Brew The company saw what would be its nascent stages when co-owner Joey Viray took some brewing courses in UC-Riverside California. Following his return home, Joey’s siblings thought it would be “fun” to brew their own beer from home. That led to them selling their brews at their mom’s food truck. And after great market reception for their product, the rest, as they say, is history—well, if you could call two years ago history.

Last June, Joe’s Brew added to the holster their own version of an IPA (Indian Pale Ale) called 34th Pursuit IPA- an homage to the Viray’s grandfather and his World War II squadron. And by the time you’re reading this, you should be able to find the recently launched Soothsayer’s Pale Ale and Sunsweeper Double IPA in stores.

Adds Marco, “We are currently in the process of moving our brewery to

Poblacion, Makati. Soon, we’re looking to open and be able to provide brewery tours. We’ll also have a small tasting room, which will be open to the public. Please come visit us once we open!”

To keep up to speed with Joe’s Brew, follow them on Facebook and on Instagram @ joesbrew.ph. For inquiries, email info@ joesbrew.com

Yes, Joe’s Brew officially began not so long ago in October 2014, and impressively, although not dissimilar to how the food truck market gravitated toward their brews, the company now distributes to around 40 restaurants and bars across the Philippines.

“We initially started with two brews – The Fish Rider Pale Ale and The Sierra Madre Wheat Ale – both are American-inspired beers with a hint of local flavor. The two have been our flagship carriers and are the beers that are pretty much out in most establishments,” says co-owner Marco Viray.

(above)Sierra Madre A lighter tasting beer for those looking for more of a soft, floral and fruitier beer. The Sierra Madre Wheat Ale pours a nice golden color, reflective of the kind of hops used for this blend. The beer goes best with fried dishes, especially fish. (above right) For Joe’s Brew 34th Pursuit – “Light amber in color, ideal for those inclined to a clean, hoppy taste. This supercharged version of the Pale Ale has citrus, floral and tropical qualities with an alcohol content of 6.8% and a bitterness of 70 IBU.

Paras calls what they’ve concocted “gateway craft beers” – handcrafted brews made from high quality ingredients that lead to unique flavors very much appealing to the Filipino taste.

4

Nipa Brew

The young, fun-loving bunch behind Nipa Brew has come up with four core beers that are available year round—Tropic Haze Wheat Ale (hazy wheat ale with tropical fruit notes), Sunstoked Blonde Ale (blonde ale with a pinch of citrus zest), Bliss Point Brown Ale (brown ale with hazelnut and caramel notes) and Midnight Blur Porter (porter with cacao and coffee notes).

“We ‘d like to think that Nipa Brew is brewed for adventure,” says Christopher Paras, sales and marketing officer of Nipa Brew. “We brew beers that will take people out of their comfort zones, and show them that there’s a whole world of beer styles and flavors out there for them to discover.”

And keeping in stead with the Love Lokal theme of this issue, Nipa Brew reciprocates the support they get for their products by sourcing their supplies from small, independent businesses found in the different Philippine provinces - their simple idea of championing small enterprises through profit-sharing.

96 | expat

GRUB HUB Where to get ‘em

“We try not to undercut any of our suppliers,” explains Paras. “When we transact with a small business owner, we don’t try to minimize their profits by asking for unreasonable discounts or concessions. We always try to go for the win-win scenarios with everyone we do business with.”

A win for local industries, a win for fans of downright good beer – what’s not to love?

For more information about Nipa Brew, follow them on Facebook and Instagram @ nipafoods or visit nipa food.com

Makati City: u52nd State, Bel-Air uAlchemy Bistro Bar, Poblacion uSmoky Bastard / Mr. Delicious, Hole in the Wall, Century City Mall uFrangos, Kamagong uThe Bottle Shop / Global Beer Exchange, Paseo de Magallanes uThe Burgery, Circuit Makati uToyo Eatery, Chino Roces uWildflour, Salcedo Village

Where to get ‘em uCebu:

Ilaputi, Big Tom’s Charbroiled Burger, Morals and Malice, Qube Gallery, White Sands Resort, La Nostra Pizzeria Napoletana

uManila:

The Black Pig, Pig Pen Café, Mister Delicious, Booze Shop, Big Bad Wolf, Sagada Cellar Door

uIloilo:

5

Brewery Gastropub

Turning Wheels While the common thread among the breweries on this list is a desire to offer the beer-drinking market a better product, Turning Wheels Craft Brewery founder Michael Nikkel is an outlier in how he wasn’t originally a fan of beer.

“I was never a beer drinker before discovering craft beer. I simply couldn’t stomach the flavor and smell of ordinary beer,” the Cebu-based Nikkel tells Expat.

“Then, one evening, after a mountain bike ride with my buddies, we tried several beers in his kitchen and I discovered Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA. The aroma and flavor simply blew my mind. I couldn’t believe it was beer that I was drinking.

From that point on, I became fascinated with craft beer and all that made it craft.”

That seemingly innocuous bike ridecum-beer session eventually resulted in a transpacific journey for Nikkel from Los Angeles to the Philippines, where he established Turning Wheels as the first craft brewery in Cebu.

“Turning Wheels began as a hobby of

mine on my balcony in LA, though with our upcoming plans to move to Cebu, I needed (and wanted) a means of establishing a stable income while having some fun after arriving in Cebu,” Nikkel shares of how the wheels were set in motion.

Backbone Double India Pale Ale (the biggest IPA in their lineup; 8.5% ABV, 85 IBU); Mountain King India Pale Ale (West Coast IPA; 7% ABV, 65 IBU); and Rippin’ Red Ale (originally designed as their anniversary ale; 6% ABV, 40 IBU).

“I literally brewed our final batches of beer in LA for our going away party, threw my equipment in balikbayan boxes, and started the brewery in Cebu a couple of months later.”

You can grab a bottle of Turning Wheels’ beers in select shops in Cebu, Manila, Davao and Iloilo.

Presently, Turning Wheels offers four main beer variants – Singlespeed Imperial Stout (full-bodied dark ale; 9.3% ABV, 60 IBU);

For more information on Turning Wheels, like them on Facebook (facebook.com/ TurningWheelsBrewery), follow them on Instagram @turningwheelsbrewery or visit turningwheelsbeer.com expat | 97

ON THE COVER

s A en e r g it s a s t e g

s d ha n a l l Cle el to do c M d n s Brya omy mo munitie t s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; e n e mbik een eco t in com he plan a B t s How ed a gr , reinve kes on go Die bi gn er San n desi ss bett reenest i art yM g ne os b ke t o busi uild the h i / P amb b Ibay sy of B d y n a a yJ rte oth cou Tim tos t by al pho x e T ition Add

98 | expat

ON THE COVER

Bryan wearing Kulturaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hijo long-sleeved shirt

expat | 99

ON THE COVER

People, planet and progress – these are what environmental consultant, ecotourism developer and social entrepreneur Bryan Benitez McClelland calls Bambike’s triple bottom line – key concepts that embody the company’s spirit, and concrete reminders of why they do what they do.

“We want to show a new way of doing business by really capitalizing on the human and natural capital of this local area,” Benitez explains of the socioecological enterprise that makes bamboo bicycles while utilizing fair-trade labor and sustainable building practices in a rural community in Victoria, Tarlac.

“We want to keep people here to prevent them from migrating into the cities, where we already have an overpopulation problem. This is, in a way, a solution to provide rural jobs to some of the people that need them the most, which can be done in a sustainable fashion.”

The product is a premium bamboo bicycle line – functional, beautiful pieces of art that also happen to be the greenest bikes on the planet. But the real end result of the venture is the many lives enriched by the process, and a poor rural community that has been put on a straight path toward sustainable progress.

“When Bambike came to our community in 2009, it was a big blessing to all of us [at the Gawad Kalinga Village in Victoria],” shares Gawad Kalinga (GK) Project Director/bamboo bike builder Jun Manaloto, who like the other bambuilders used to work a number of part-time jobs just to try (and frequently fail) to make ends meet for their families.

Other bambuilders like Manaloto are now full-time employees with benefits and earn more than double of their previous daily wages – improvements in quality of life that have allowed them to have actual savings, send their kids to schools and universities, expand their living spaces, and start their own micro-enterprises.

“Because of Bryan, he brilliantly crafted a way for us to have a decent livelihood that aims to help poor people like us,” fellow bambuilder Fredy Yosi adds.

According to McClelland, “Every bamboo bike has a bit more of a story than just being a functional, beautiful piece of art that you can ride around. There are a lot of people whose hands the bamboo went through to build, and a lot of people who benefit from the overall project because we really invest in the community and are looking to do business better.”

100 | expat

“

ON THE COVER

Every bamboo bike has a bit more of a story than just being a functional, beautiful piece of art that you can ride around.

There are a lot of people whose hands the bamboo went through to build, and a lot of people who benefit from the overall project because we really invest in the community and are looking to do business better”

Bambike’s bamboo bike builders (aka Bambuilders) are incredibly skilled craftsmen. They hand-build the greenest bikes on the planet. June, Nel, Jun, Luis, Fred, James, and Ferdie (shown from L-R in the middle photo) are all members of a community development program called Gawad Kalinga. Before building Bambikes, they were working a number of part-time jobs, driving pedicabs, welding, farming, and other odd jobs as day laborers

expat | 101

ON THE COVER

Since Bambike’s founding, the enterprise has grown to incorporate other social programs that include scholarships, sponsoring pre-school teachers and a weekly feeding program for children, as well as the establishment of bamboo nurseries for reforestation – all combining into a simple, yet effective practice of dedication to social and environmental stewardship.

Mean green machine

Expat got to sample Bambikes on the way to the cover shoot – a short ride from Bambike’s shop in Intramuros to the iconic Manila Hotel – and experienced first hand the truly fluid ride these bamboo bicycles provide.

“Bamboo is a pretty incredible material.

It’s got the characteristics of a naturally vibration-dampening pole structure, which really absorb the road chatter and road buzz, and make for a really smooth ride,” explains McClelland, pointing out that along with being arguably the greenest building material on earth, bamboo is also as strong as steel if you use the right species.

(Top)McClelland leading the way en route to the shoot at Manila Hotel – an area just outside Intramuros that would soon see proper bike lanes (Middle) Manila Hotel’s bell staff admiring Bambike’s works of art (Bottom) McClelland busting out a few tricks on his Bambike, showcasing how bamboo bikes are built for performance as much as aesthetics

102 | expat

Shot on location at The Manila Hotel

Bryan wearing Kultura’s Hijo authentic shirt Shot on location at The Manila Hotel

ON THE COVER

Bryan wearing Kultura’s Hijo authentic shirt Shot on location at the Manila Hotel

“

Bambike Ecotours is a commercial channel created to market our channels to the rest of the world while creating more jobs, promoting a healthy lifestyle, and preserving Filipino cultural heritage”

“It’s very durable, really strong and can stand up to the demands needed by a bicycle frame,” adds McClelland, who shocked our photographer by jumping down a flight of stairs on his Bambike.

works of art, are also world-class, certified bamboo bicycles that have been tested for durability, crash worthiness and stiffness – surpassing the toughest standards in the industry.

Presently, Bambike produces six bike models the Luntian (all-terrain model equipped to explore both the urban jungle and the countryside, whilst also tough enough to tackle the trails), Ligtasin Cove (retro-styled beach cruiser), Mira Nila (road bike), Victoria (city bike), BMX and Malaya (upcycled surplus)—all of which are made from locally sourced bamboo and abaca fibers with aircraft-grade alloys to form bikes that apart from being unique

Premium rush

1

Victoria: Complete build starts at PhP35,000

4 luntian: All-Terrain frame: PhP25,000; 29er frame: PhP29,000; complete build starts at PhP55,000

Suffice to say, Bambikes are not just a novelty, they are actual premium bicycles designed to perform. And as such, they come at a price – the Malaya starting at PhP15,000 for a complete build and up to PhP55,000 as the starting price for a Luntian complete build.

US$1,200 may seem like a price that’s a tad stiff to pay for a bamboo bike, but

that’s only because you haven’t ridden one yet. Fortunately, you can sample the joys of riding one through Bambike’s Ecotours.

“Bambike Ecotours is a commercial channel created to market our channels to the rest of the world while creating more jobs, promoting a healthy lifestyle, and preserving Filipino cultural heritage,” says McClelland of the tour that takes you around the Walled City of Intramuros—the oldest district and historic core of Manila.

For PhP1,200, you get to go on a two and a half hour tour the historic sites in Intramuros while riding one of Bambike’s beauties. And if you’ve already seen the

2 Mira NIla: Single speed frame: PhP20,000; race frame: PhP25,000; complete build starts at PhP35,000

3 BMX: Complete build starts at PhP25,000

5 The Chopper

6 Ligtasin Cove: Complete build starting at PhP50,000

expat | 103

ON THE COVER Bryan Benitez McClelland While pursuing his Masters degree in Environmental Resource Management at the University of Pennsylvania, Filipino-American McClelland got involved with Gawad Kalinga by helping the foundation kickstart their green building program. He later founded Bamb Ecological Technology, Inc. to create a platform for his socioecological enterprise projects.

Gawad Kalinga Translated in English, Gawad Kalinga means to “give care;” and it’s the name of a Philippine-based movement that aims to end poverty by first restoring the dignity of the poor. It employs integrated and holistic approaches to empowerment with values formation and leadership development at its core. Established in 2003, the foundation currently works with over 2,000 communities.

Bambike Ecotours Intramuros Experience 2.5 hours to see it all for PhP1,200, which includes bike and helmet rental, bottled water and entrance fees. Tour schedules are daily from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Express Tours One-hour tour where you choose your own adventure (PhP600 per person)

Bike Rentals PhP300 per hour

A European contingent getting their final briefing before going on their Bambike Ecotour

sites, or would much rather explore on your own, bike rentals go for PhP300 per hour.

Not a bad deal, and one that’s soon to be replicated in other rural areas, as McClelland divulged plans have been set in motion to conduct similar ecotours in Batangas (along with a manufacturing site in the same area).

The wheels of McClelland’s vision of a green economy have been turning; birthing an enterprise that use local building materials and create local jobs that enrich the lives of local people. Bambike is the synthesis of the greenest building material on the planet and the most efficient machine built by man. And with every turn of the wheel, it inches toward their triple bottom line of cultivating people, planet and progress.

The Bambike shop is located at the Plaza San Luis Complex, Real St., cor. General Luna St., Intramuros, Manila. It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more information, contact (02) 525-8289, (0916) 589-2100, or visit www.bambike.com 104 | expat

LOVE LOCALE The southern Philippine province of Mindoro Oriental has long been a favorite holiday hideaway for tourists. With its sun-drenched beaches, ocean waters and reefs teeming with a wealth of undersea life, lush mountain areas, eye-catching natural beauty, interesting indigenous culture, and overall hospitable vibe, the island has through the years become a go-to getaway for those looking for some adventure and R and R. This burgeoning tourism industry, however, has not been without its own set of problems. Like any other destination which groans under the weight of rapid change, Mindoro Oriental has seen its share of social upheaval. Get to know those who are helping to turn things around, and giving back to the locale they have caome to love.

expat | 105

LOVE LOCALE

Scuba for Change

Beyond being self-contained This non-profit organization dives right in, and brings change through scuba

Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Leah De Leon Additional photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

It is a widely held belief that everyone has the innate capacity to make their life count for something; that a seed of greatness is planted into each person’s life. The cockeyed optimist in me chooses to believe that, but the realist in me has lived long enough to know that – sadly – not everyone takes the initiative to nurture this seed to fruition.

Many, perhaps, do not even realize that they have this capacity. Others, still, are in need of an awakening of sorts. For Hong Kong-born, Australia-based Albert Li, it took an up-close and personal encounter for this seed to germinate.

Crossroads Throwback to the year 2004: Li and his wife visited Cambodia and Vietnam, where they experienced some things that left a lasting mark on their souls. “My wife and I traveled through Cambodia and Vietnam, and personally witnessed some horrific things, with kids being exploited as prostitutes and beggars,” Li recounted.

“Then, we went to this tiny little restaurant in Cambodia, in which the owner basically took kids off the streets, gave them food, shelter and education, and basically led them straight. And he did all this off his

own bat, not sponsored by any large corporation, or anything. And I was really inspired by that.”

This eye-opening, heart-rending encounter left Li at a crossroads, of sorts; one that he maybe did not even know he was on, until one decade later.

The pin drops “Many years later, more than a decade later, actually, I was in the Maldives, diving. And then it hit me that I could do the same thing as the restaurant owner in Cambodia, but in the world of scuba.

That was when the pin dropped, really. I realized that there is a model we could use to bring change, through scuba, to local communities,” Li shared.

An avid scuba diver, Li approached fellowdive aficionado and long-time friend, American national Phil Enright, and shared the seed that had been planted while on that trip to Cambodia. Together, they founded Scuba for Change, the world’s first non-profit dive shop, in February 2015.

Through a series of what can best be described as ordained events, they chose to open shop in Oriental Mindoro, an island province in the southern part of the Philippines, on the quiet beach of Aninuan.

Providential partnerships It was on a reconnaissance trip to the Philippines shortly after Li and Enright had decided to start Scuba for Change that things really fell into place. It seemed nothing short of providential when the two big-hearted divers were introduced to Lars Jorgensen and Monica Ray, founders of Mindoro-based children’s rights NGO, Stairway Foundation. Providence likewise dictated that Lexy Niederer, owner of nearby premier resort, Sunset at Aninuan, would see it a wonderful idea for Scuba

106 | expat

LOVE LOCALE

(clockwise from opposite page)Kids from Stairway Foundation prepare for their introductory class with Dive Instructor Karl Marchant; The Scuba for Change Dive Shop at Sunset at Aninuan beach resort; Founders Phil Enright and Albert Li, with dive prodigy and Scuba for Change’s next dive shop manager, Julienne Evangelista (middle); Karl Marchant makes some final gear adjustments before heading into the water

for Change to set up shop as in-house dive outfit. Add to the mix PADI Dive Instructor Karl Marchant, an Englishman who responded to an ad placed online, and the team was poised to bring change to the locale.

Galera truly is,” Marchant said.

Making a difference Scuba for Change has started making a difference with groups of kids from Stairway Foundation, instructing them in the basics of the underwater activity.

Special events are held on a regular basis, in line with Stairway’s E.A.C.Y. (Environmental Awareness for Children and Youth) Program. Aside from learning how to dive (and eventually earning their Open Water Certificates), kids learn about marine life, the importance of mangrove swamps, sea grass and coral reef systems; they learn about keeping the ocean and its surroundings clean.

“I see how the program affects children, how it has a positive impact on their lives.

For example, in May last year, during one of our Change for Children programs, there was a boy who, as I was told, was doing very poorly in school. But he was like a fish in the water. He took every single task we gave him and did these tasks like he had been doing them for the last 20 years, even though it was his first time to do any of these. And it clicked in him that he was good at something. We are giving kids a chance to discover what they are good at. You and I had this journey – many of the kids we work with don’t have this opportunity of self-discovery,” Li revealed.

“What we are hoping is that the local community of children will start to spread this knowledge and help change bad habits, such as throwing plastic and rubbish into the rivers, as this ends up in the ocean.

The Philippines is one of the top five countries responsible for 95 percent of the plastic in the ocean. We want kids to see what it’s like under the ocean, and see how special what they have here in Puerto

In similar manner, Li has witnessed, firsthand, how the program has the potential to turn a child’s life around and help them along their path.

Success stories At the time of my meeting with its founders and teachers, Scuba for Change was training the second group of kids to go through the program. Although the initiative started little more than a year ago, success stories have already begun to emerge.

Among these, the story of 23-year-old Julienne Evangelista, the girl they call

“Super J.” Described by Li as an “awesome, awesome” diver, Evangelista, a Puerto Galera native, has been in the dive industry for several years now. She used to work at a local dive shop, where she longed for more, but was discouraged by her peers from going any further, simply because she is a woman.

Scuba for Change entered the picture, and fully supported Super J’s dreams for a career in diving.

“We did not force her; we told her to do what she felt was right for her. She chose to be trained by us, and all we asked of her was to pay it forward, somehow. Julienne is now on her way to becoming a Dive Instructor and will be the General Manager of the Scuba for Change shop when Karl leaves,” Li said, as he beamed with pride over all of Super J’s achievements.

Across the seas Li and Enright look forward to reaching out to an even greater number of children across the seas by opening more branches of Scuba for Change on other islands of the Philippines, and even in different countries, in the future.

For now, they have chosen to focus on strengthening the existing branch and on strengthening the local community in its environs.

“We want to make sure that this dive shop here in Aninuan is humming along. When it is self-sustaining, then we will definitely look to opening another one like it somewhere else in the Philippines. We’d love to have multiple locations, to maximize our impact in the country,” Li said.

This is Scuba for Change’s mission, and it is definitely one that aims to reach way beyond self-containment. expat | 107

LOVE LOCALE

Stairway Foundation

Leading children to a better tomorrow Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

In literature and art, as well as in the interpretation of dreams, a stairway often has significant meaning. It is widely regarded as a symbol of a journey from one place to another, and as a link or passageway which forms a connection between places, thoughts, even stages of life. It is also thought to represent progress, especially if going up the steps, as well as change and transition in one’s life.

In the Philippine province of Oriental Mindoro, a stairway represents all that, and more: for the past two decades, it has been the representation of hope and the promise of a better tomorrow.

Heeding the need Stairway Foundation Inc., a non-profit organization dedicated to championing children’s rights, was founded in 1990 by husband and wife dynamo, Lars Jorgensen and Monica Ray. Jorgensen (originally from Denmark) and Ray (an American national) were based in Taiwan, where they were working as teachers, whilst studying Mandarin. Innately wired with a passion for children’s welfare, the couple found they could not turn away from the dire situation of children’s rights in the Philippines, especially back then. Deciding to heed the need, the couple relocated to the Philippines where they started with a one-cottage facility in the small, laid-back 108 | expat

beach town of Aninuan, proximate enough to decidedly more populous, busier (and , unfortunately, seedier) municipalities in the area.

“We were moved to come here by the need, which was pretty much in-your-face, at the time; the need for child protection,” recounted Jorgensen when I visited the foundation on a recent trip to Mindoro.

“An added motivation was the beauty of the country and the hospitable attitude of the people. It was a very welcoming environment, without much of a language barrier.”

Jorgensen and Ray began to work closely with children from local juvenile centers; kids who were chosen for their assessed risk

factor, as well as their desire for something better.

“We try to work with the children who are at greater risk and vulnerability, and those who want to change; those who are looking to make a move to a better, different life,” Jorgensen pointed out.

Breaking the silence Jorgensen and Ray, together with their staff, took on the task of working with abused children, boys, to be specific, from the ages of 10 to 15. They realized, however, almost from the start, that there were – more often than not – hidden, underlying issues. Deep, dark secrets that tormented these boys like specters from a seemingly endless nightmare.

“We realized early on when we were speaking to the children that a lot of them had suffered from sexual abuse, and we recognized that we were initially lacking in our approach; that we had to deal with the problems of sexual abuse,” Jorgensen pointed out.

“Once we addressed that, our program became so much more efficient. Sexual

LOVE LOCALE

(Clockwise from opposite page) Theater therapy class with Stairway co-founder, Monica Ray; Stairway Foundation’s dedicated co-founder, Lars Jorgensen; One of many inspirational mottos painted throughout the complex; Some of the children’s works of art, painted during Art Therapy classes; Part of the foundation’s main building

abuse is different from other forms of abuse in the sense that the child is not very likely to share it; there is so much shame – incredible shame – and guilt involved. The offender makes the child feel responsible for what has happened to him or her. Our first challenge is to help break this silence, and to help make the child understand that it is not their fault.”

Home and healing haven As I walked around the one-hectare facility, it was easy to see why Stairway Foundation has become a home and haven for children in need of nurturing. A thespian class was in session, under Ray’s instruction, and the children were actively – HAPPILY – engaged in carrying out acting exercises.

The complex has since grown exponentially from the original one-cottage affair, to include quarters for the children, guest houses for teachers and trainees for child protection programs, and learning and recreation facilities such as a theater, sports amenities, spacious common areas, an art room (which is reminiscent of a tree house), among others. Child-friendly murals and inspiring mottos in bright, cheery colors are emblazoned on walls and open areas.

Children are instructed in the academe, as well as in the creative arts and sports.

Stairway Foundation offers many different programs and services, such as Youth for Change, Community Assistance, Treatment of Sexually Abused Children through counseling and creative therapy, and Advocacy and Capacity Building. Also

among its programs is the Residential Family Home, in which a group of no more than 15 of the most at-risk children are taken in for one year, and placed under the care of Jorgensen, Ray, and a dedicated team of 35 staff members and teachers.

“We choose to work with no more than 15 kids, in our residential program, because if we take on any more than that, we lose the idea of family. Because this is what the children have been deprived of; that natural sense of family, and the values that should come with that. We have a good success rate, because we work with small groups,” Jorgensen explained.

“Our programs help the kids build up their self-esteem and self-confidence. We give them a lot of individual attention, to help them along. Because we work with kids directly, we are privileged to witness, firsthand, their progress and growth. We see kids coming in here in poor shape, physically, mentally and emotionally. And then, a year later, you barely recognize them as the same child from before. It is amazing. It is rewarding,” he added.

A few hundred children have gone through Stairway’s residential program, while several thousand children have benefitted from the foundation’s many other efforts and activities. Stairway has a scholarship program, as well, which supports deserving students in local schools across Mindoro, and students in the Mangyan indigenous

community.

The bigger picture Jorgensen recognizes that the need is far greater than the help that Stairway Foundation is able to provide, and says that many times, it feels like they are only “patching holes.” But Jorgensen and Ray likewise see the bigger picture: building the advocacy is the key.

“There are so many children who need help, sometimes, because we cannot work with everyone. But this is where the advocacy comes in, so that we can bring change on a larger scale,” he said.

Towards this end, Stairway Foundation has created toolkits and manuals confronting child sexual abuse and exploitation, and these materials have been translated into almost a dozen varied dialects and languages. Recently, with its partner networks, the group put together a Cyber Safe Manual, instructing children and child advocates on Internet-safe behavior.

“The scope of the problem is still very large, unfortunately. That is why it is important for us to focus on advocacy, and get as many people involved, as possible.

We must agree that having children on the streets is basically a national disaster, and that we have to work together to resolve this,” Jorgensen shared.

“We work hard to continue what we are doing and to make the sure the organization stays strong and can run for many more years.”

Jorgensen along with the entire Stairway Foundation team remains resolute. With their hand to the plough and their eyes on the prize, they continue to help children along their path, one step at a time.

Upward and onward to a better, brighter tomorrow.

For more information, visit www. stairwayfoundation.org expat | 109

LOVE LOCALE

Iraya Mangyan Village

Home, heritage, and hope, interwoven Text by Angie Duarte / Photos by Andie Duarte Syyap

The southern province of Mindoro has long been favored as a go-to destination for some fun in the sun. Renowned for its many beaches (the most popular of which is White Beach, with its “forever Spring Break vibe;” although there are decidedly more peaceful, more pristine beaches in the province) and notorious for other, more unsavory things (Sabang Beach’s Red Light District, for instance), Mindoro sees a yearly influx of thousands upon thousands of both foreign and local visitors alike.

But before the deluge of tourists and the proliferation of resorts, restaurants, pubs, and party places; prior to the merriment often bordering on madness and mayhem; and decades ahead of any form of rural development, Mindoro was peopled by the eight Mangyan indigenous tribes. They were, in fact, the only inhabitants of the province and remained so until they were driven away – to further-flung coasts and more remote mountainous areas – by the Tagalog settlers. In later years,

the Mangyans were forced out of their mountain settlements by heavy fighting between government troops and rebel forces holed up in the region. Since then, the Mangyans have been displaced and marginalized, economically and socially, with their distinct cultural legacy under grave threat of extinction.

The Ayala Foundation has dedicated some of its efforts towards reviving the Mangyan heritage, and these initiatives have rekindled hope, and a sense of pride in the tribe’s indigenous identity.

Home, sweet (thatched cottage) home Of the eight tribes, the Iraya Mangyan group is the second most populous. The Irayas reside primarily in Puerto Galera, Oriental Mindoro, in Sitio Talipanan, at the foot of majestic Mount Malasimbo.

It is there that the Ayala Foundation has constructed the Mangyan Village or Mangyanan, a community of thatched cottages that are replicas of original Mangyan dwellings. The Iraya now call this their home.

Business tycoons and philanthropists Don Jaime and Doña Bea Zobel, scions of the Ayala Group, purchased the 4.2-hectare parcel of land in 2007. To date, there are nearly 100 homes, with a target of 300 homes, in the future. There is electricity and running water in the settlement. The living areas and the public spaces are connected by a charming wooden bridge,

110 | expat

LOVE LOCALE

underneath which a river usually runs – not in the arid El Niño months, however. In these times, the Iraya must find other bodies of fresh water in which to splash about, take a dip, bathe, or do laundry. Around 250 families, with a total of approximately 1,500 individuals, live and work in the village. There is also a community school, from daycare to elementary levels, while secondary schooling is usually taken in nearby municipalities, such as San Isidro and Puerto Galera.

Labors of love and products of patience Near the entrance to the village, there are three large community pavilions, roofed in the same manner as the cottages. Two of these pavilions serve as work spaces, while one has been converted into a showroom. In the cool of these pavilions – sheltered from the sweltering, blistering summer heat – men, women, even children, huddle together in the communal act of weaving. Beautifully handcrafted items primarily of nito fiber (from the nito vine, a type of climbing fern), are the objects of their efforts. Despite being in various stages of incompletion or completion, however you choose to view

these, their pieces are already visually stunning works of art. These are definitely products of patience: some items can take nearly one year to finish. Smaller items, such as coasters, bottle holders, baskets, woven trivets, trinkets and the like can be completed in under a month or two, depending on the size and design. But larger, more intricate pieces – as urns and jars – are a painstaking, laborious, lengthy labor of love.

I converse with an older Mangyan woman, fingers skillfully dancing across the length of dried nito bundles. She shyly declines to give me her name, but relates that the lidded urn she is working on will take her anywhere from eight to 10 months to complete. It will stand about 37 to 40 inches, once finished, and will sell for a few hundred less than PhP5,000. That’s less than PhP500 a month, should it take 10 months.

She is on her sixth month, she says, and looks forward to finishing the elaboratelypatterned urn so that she can begin the next piece. Beadwork is another source of income, she tells me, but the Mangyans working with beads are located at the Sisters of St. Anne’s multipurpose hall at the Amade Cllinic (which – although almost directly across the Mangyanan – was closed for lunch at the time of my visit).

The Ayala Foundation has been a big help in the livelihood of the Iraya Mangyans, The organization, through the help of

(Opposite page)Men and women, alike, involve themselves with the painstaking, intricate process on hand weaving dried nito fiber into various items; Thatched dwellings, patterned after the original Mangyan huts (This page clockwise)Hand woven products and beads, for sale at the village; Mangyan children happily pose for the camera; Beautifully designed hand woven nito round tray; A large urn can take up to nearly one year to finish

Doña Bea, actively sells the eye-catching woven products and beadwork at popular high-end malls in Manila. Orders are on the upswing, which means more work for the Mangyans and financial support for their families. The foundation acts as a middleman, of sorts, but does not receive any percentage or fee from the sales. The entire amount goes directly to weaver.

Proud to be Filipino Thus far, the foundation’s efforts have proven an excellent way to preserve the Mangyan’s tradition of weaving; a legacy passed on by ancestors before them. This has likewise renewed the tribe’s sense of hope, as it continues to be a viable source of income for each home. All these are a means to an end; a fulfillment of the Ayala Foundation’s vision to build “communities where people are productive, creative, self-reliant, and proud to be Filipino.”

expat | 111

EVENTS

MY FOREIGN AFFAIRS

By Butch Bonsol

Boredeaux Rendezvous: A toast to the finer things During the first Filipino formal by Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila, guests and wine makers were garbed in the Barong Tagalog and Terno in an evening celebrated through gastronomy and premium wines.

Sofitel partnered with AWC Philippines and Barrière Frères to present a collection of 18 of the most prestigious Bordeaux Grands Crus together with their respective owners and brand ambassadors in a luxurious wine dinner at Spiral’s La Veranda.

The premier wines were paired with the exquisite culinary stylings of Spiral’s 21 dining ateliers. Included in the delectable pairings were the Château Beychevelle 2008 paired with Angus Beef Rib Eye Teppanyaki, Château Haut Bages Libéral 2005 paired with Lamb Seekh Kebab, Château Pedesclaux 2012 with Pork Sisig, Château Guiraud 2011 paired with Seared Foie Gras, and Château Talbot 2001 paired with Oxtail Parmentier.

1

And while the wine dinner was a winner in itself, the real beneficiary of the night was the Aboitiz Foundations’ Pawikan (Sea Turtle) Project, which was given the over US$12,793 that was raised through the silent charity auction that followed the dinner.

As noted by Sofitel, the Bordeaux Rendezvous was the culmination of the highly anticipated event that gathered, for the first time, the 18 owners and brand ambassadors of the different chateaux in Bordeaux.

3

112 | expat

2

4

5

EVENTS

6

8

11

14

(1) First row (L-R): Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila Director of Public Relations Yasmine Hidalgo, Troy Barrios, Yvette Fernandez, Lisa Ilarde Second row (L-R): Micky Fenix, Shauna Jay Popple, Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila Director of Sales and Marketing Alice Jenkins, PJ Cana (2) Winemakers with the Sofitel Executive Committee: Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila’s Director of F&B Damien Marchenay, Alice Jenkins, Château Malartic Lagravière Sales Director Karim Nasser, Château Dassault Managing Director Laurence Brun, Château d’Issan and Château Pedesclaux Sales and Communications Director Augustin Lacaille, Château Guiraud Brand Ambassador David Ornon, Château Gicours and Château Du Tertre Sales and Marketing Director Laure Bastard, Château Talbot (3)DDB Group’s Anna Norbert and Eric Norbert

7

9

10

12

13

15

(4)AWC Fine Wine Sales Director - Asian Markets Jean Philippe Guillot (5)Alice Jenkins (6)AWC Philippines Sales & Marketing Manager Hugo Moronval, AWC Fine Wine Sales Director Asian Markets Jean Philippe Guillot and Château d’Issan and Château Pedesclaux Sales and Communications Director Augustin Lacaille (7) Château Talbot Owner Jean-Paul Bignon, Ernest Villareal, Ditas Villareal and Sandra Fernandez (8) Anton Montinola, Maricar Garcia and Dr. Cecilio Pedro (9) Clara Deboos and Sohrana Ashby

16

(11) Solaire Resort & Casino’s Beverage Director & Sommelier Daniel Blais and Château Dassault Managing Director Laurence Brun (12) PJ Cana and Shauna Jay Popple (13) Planet Grapes Brand Manager Lhady Dizon and Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila’s F&B Manager Tanguy Gras (14) Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila General Manager Adam Laker and Belinda Laker (15) Iva Kerto and Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila’s Resident Manager Alfredo Denage (16) Liza Bate, Analyn Garcia and Maiki Oreta

(10) Ricardo Andres and AWC Philippines Sales & Marketing Manager Hugo Moronval and Babes Oreta

expat | 113

PITSTOP

Spill the beans, not the absinthe!

Find out more about the secret bar in Makati that Asia’s been raving about Text and photos by Ching Dee / Additional photos courtesy of ABV

2010 was just supposed to be a time to visit the Philippines to catch up with his father, but Patrick Cuartero ended up staying in the Philippines—over Paris—for good.

Truly a man of endless possibilities, Cuartero realized the fertility of the Philippines’ business scene, especially when it comes to start-ups. Wasting no time at all, he spent the last five years putting ideas into action—from a group-buying site to Information Technology, to award-winning hotdogs and burgers, to hidden bars with the largest collection of absinthe in the city.

Yep, we know that’s a lot, but trust us—he knows what he’s doing.

Inspired by the mystery of New York’s speakeasies (and drawing from the panache of 1920’s prohibition era bars), Cuartero opened Lazy Bastard, a New York-style burger and hotdog joint along Jupiter Street in Makati (just look for the neon lights announcing ‘Bacon’ and ‘Burgers’—home of the best hotdog and burger in Metro Manila for 2015), as a front for his basement watering hole ABV (Alcohol By Volume).

With the help of celebrated beverage 114 | expat

consultant Lee Watson and award-winning bartender Ken Bandivas, ABV’s current general manager and head bartender (and 2015 Diageo World Class Competition Around the World Challenge champion), Cuartero launched ABV in April 2015. And because no secret is safe in 2016, what was originally a secret absinthe bar in a Makati basement earned the recognition of being ranked the 14th in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2016.

“ABV is all about the experience,” Cuartero tells this happy and kind-of-tipsy Expat correspondent, “You get a warm welcome as soon as you enter the bar, a glass of water and nibbles as you sit without asking for them, and of course, top-notch drinks by our first-rate bartenders.”

packs a solid bourbon punch). Aside from the KBT, their bestsellers include Jupiter Street, Señorita Marquesa, classics such as the Old Fashioned, Whiskey Sour, and Cuartero’s personal favorite, the Sazerac.

As for the grub, ABV may seem swanky, but with Lazy Bastard just on the other side of the wall, ABV also offers good ol’ fashioned greasy bar chow. Try their Bacon Cheese Burger, Tater Bombs (bacon-wrapped handmade tater tots—boom), Metro Manila’s best hotdog, the Honey Parmesan Dog; and if you’re feeling fancy, try their Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame (monsieur with a perfectly cooked egg on top).

And speaking of first-rate bartenders, in 2016, two ABV bartenders—Lester Ligon and Lloyd Misagal—competed for a chance to represent the country at the Diageo World Class Global Final Competition in Miami, Florida.

“We will constantly strive to improve in order to give our customers the best possible experience, and help the country elevate its reputation and be recognized as a destination for those looking for worldclass drinks and top-notch bar service,” Cuartero said.

If you do manage to find your way through ABV’s password-protected secret passage leading into the dimly lit bar, make sure to try their first signature cocktail: the Kentucky Bourbon Trail (it goes down smooth, but

Lazy Bastard and ABV are located at 22 Jupiter Street corner Galaxy Street, Bel-Air Village, Makati. For inquiries and reservations, call (02) 832-5330