QUILTING DRESSMAKING MACHINE SEWING appliqué
sewing
HOME DÉCOR • FASHION • KIDS • PATCHWORK • GIFTS
The team behind Mollie Makes brings you 109 fresh ideas to brighten up your home and update your wardrobe. This collection is full of easy-sew fashion projects, from a luxe skirt to cosy PJs, as well as simple décor updates – cute cushions, unique lampshades, geometric bookends and more. You’ll also find great gift ideas, including plenty of makes for kids. Step-by-step guides and clear instructions will have you sewing like a pro in no time!
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MAKES, IDEAS & TIPS TO GET YOU SEWING TODAY!
sewing
HOME DECOR • FASHION • KIDS • PATCHWORK • GIFTS
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FRESH PROJECTS
G E T I N TO C R A F T
START STITCHING… Sewing is such an easy craft to get into, so we’ve decided to celebrate it with this special edition of Mollie Makes. Designer-makers galore are showing just how simple it is to tackle your own handmade wardrobe, or craft ontrend makes for your home, so we’ve curated our favourite projects for you to try. If you’re a total newbie, have no fear – take that sewing machine out of its box and give it a whirl with the help of our guide on page 7. And we’ve got seasoned sewists covered too, with plenty of ideas for personalising makes your own way. There’s a whole host of diferent patterns for you to try, so flick through, see what takes your fancy, then share your finished goodies using #molliemakers!
Yvette Streeter, Editor
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sewing
Try a bit of handpainting on metallic leather
HOME DECOR•FASHION•KIDS• PATCHWORK•GIFTS
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Go glam with this gold party essential
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Think of them as shelf punctuation
Fashion 11 METALLIC SKIRT Sew a midi-length marvel for party season
13 BOMBER JACKET A colourful update on a classic design
16 FAUX FUR CLUTCH
37 SIMPLE KIMONO
58 BOLD LAMPSHADE
Make a pattern-free layer in under an hour
An easy way to update your space
35 DRESSING GOWN
61 PATCHWORK TABLE SET
Greet the day in the classiest florals
Geometric placemats and coasters
home
64 FLOOR CUSHION There’s always room for one more
68 COSY DOG BED
38 LAUNDRY HAMPER
Treat your pooch to a new comfy spot
A copper and monochrome dream
70 SQUIRREL PEG BAG
41 PATCHWORK QUILT Start your heirloom piece today
Because putting the washing out should be way more whimsical
22 CROSS-BACK TEE
45 SUCCULENT CUSHION
73 SEWING MACHINE COVER
Pattern hack your way to a new top
Indulge your inner crazy plant lady
Stand by for fancy chevron patchwork
26 BUTTON-DOWN SKIRT
48 FANCY KITCHEN SET
76 FELT CAKES
Upcycle a shirt into a whole new garment
An oven glove and potholder to sew
An indulgent fabric patisserie set
28 PAINTED BAG
52 PET TENT
81 COIN PURSE
Metallic leather gets the handmade treatment
Print and sew a hideout for fur babies
Try sewing with cork leather
31 FUR STOLE
55 BOOK ENDS
83 ROLL UP MAT
This ombre accessory is faux, of course
And they stitched happily ever after
For lounging and picnicing
Work with super-luxe fuzzy texture
19 SWAN PYJAMAS The dreamiest loungewear we ever did see
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A pretty floor cushion with contrast piping
Super-cute bear bag for stowing tiny treasures
Accessorise with luxe faux fur and leather
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Patchwork quilt
A mat for the guest bedroom or the beach
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86 86 MAKE UP BAGS
104 CUSTOMISABLE DOLLS
Cosmetics pouches in modern prints, in two sizes for mixing and matching
Sew a mini-me doll, or tweak the design to make a personalised gift
89 POM POM MUFF
108 HOBBY HORSE
Accessorise the rainbow way
A magical unicorn take on a playtime classic
91 WALL HANGING
111 KNOTTED CUSHION
Geometric felt in retro style
Ideal for a modern nursery or playroom
little ones 94 UNICORN BAG A magical must-have mini backpack for those who believe
97 RABBIT PLUSHIE Double craft threat – sew a cute bunny and then crochet a jacket for him to wear
101 BABY BOOTS Welcome a little one with a precious first pair of super-soft shoes
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114 ANIMAL BAGS Two crossbody woodland designs to create
117 DINOSAUR SOFTIE An XXL plushie made for adventures
the essentials 07 HOW TO SEW Step-by-step guides to simple stitches and techniques used in our projects
120 TEMPLATES Templates for the projects in this collection
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Monochrome geometrics for your table
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Contributors
sewing
HOME DECOR • FASHION • KIDS • PATCHWORK • GIFTS
The New Craft House Rosie and Hannah are the duo behind award-winning blog The New Craft House. Friends since childhood, they both love using traditional crafts in modern projects. Among their projects here are a fab metallic skirt (page 11) and ultra-comfy PJs (page 19) www.thenewcrafthouse.com
Kirsty Hartley Kirsty lives in the Lancashire hills with her partner and three children. When she’s not writing and making lovely things, she can be found exploring the woods near her family home with her two lurchers. Find Kirsty’s cute animal bags on page 114. www.wildthingsdresses.com
EDITORIAL Editor Yvette Streeter Managing Editor Charlotte Martyn Art Editor Robin Coomber Deputy Art Editor Leela Roy Production Editor Rebecca Parker Additional Design Lisa Jones, Kimberley Price ADVERTISING Call: 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Senior Sales Executive Beckie Pring Sales Executive Tiffany Jackson MARKETING AND CIRCULATION Direct Marketing Manager Kevin Slaughter Direct Marketing Assistant Charlie Herne Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Subscriptions Director Jacky Perales-Morris Subscriptions Project Lead Julie Sewell PRODUCTION Production Director Sarah Powell Production Managers Louisa Molter, Rose Griffiths
Christine Leech Christine started making at an early age and is now lucky enough to now make her living from all things crafty: running workshops, writing books and making things to sell in her Etsy shop. She’s the creative brains behind the delicious felt patisserie on page 77. www.sewyeahstudio.etsy.com
Lou Orth Lou is a self-confessed fabric addict who lives in Oxfordshire with her young family. Sewing is her passion, specifically all things patchwork and quilt related. We’ve got two of Lou’s projects here: an eco-friendly cork purse (page 81) and cool quilted mats (page 61). www.imstudiolou.wordpress.com
LICENSING Director of International Licensing and Syndication Tim Hudson tim.hudson@immediate.co.uk International Partners Manager Anna Brown BUYING TEAM Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Jennifer Morgan PUBLISHING Publishing Director Catherine Potter FIND A COPY Call +44 (0)844 844 0388, visit www.buysubscriptions.com/craftspecial or email immediatemedia@servicehelpline.co.uk Distribution Frontline Printed in England by William Gibbons
H and Sammy Bloggers, crafters and best friends, H and Sammy’s website is packed with lifestyle inspiration and plenty of sewing tutorials. Follow their craft adventures on Instagram @liveit.loveit.makeit and have a go at their stylish dressing gown design on page 35. www.liveitloveitmakeit.com
Lana Red Lana’s DIY and lifestyle blog is dedicated to bringing innovative projects to everyone’s home. With a background in art, design, fashion and theatre, she has a passion for creating and sharing unique ideas. We love her easy-sew bright bomber jacket on page 13. www.lanaredstudio.com
Other contributors Anna Alicia, Ali Burdon, Leah Farquharson, Abby Glassenberg, Lynne Goldsworthy, Regina Groleau, Chloe Hardisty, Hannah Hathaway, Debbie Humphreys, Emily Kalinowski, Louise Kelly, Kayleigh McDaid, Kinsey Mhire, Teri Muncey, Karolina Radomska-Nishii, Delia Randall, April Rhodes, Zeena Shah, Hester van Overbeek, Sally Whiting
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Chief Executive Oficer Tom Bureau Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall
Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered ofice of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.
ESSENTIAL INFO
PREPARE TO SEW WITH OUR GUIDE TO WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO GET STARTED
BASIC SEWING KIT You don’t need a huge stash of equipment to start sewing. Make sure you’ve got these bits and you’ll be fine: Fabric scissors Small embroidery scissors
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Needles (assorted sizes) Sewing thread (various colours) Tape measure Pins Transfer pencil or chalk Iron and ironing board Sewing machine
Of course, you can sew all your projects by hand if you don’t have a sewing machine, but for larger projects it makes life much easier. Turn the page to find your way around a sewing machine…
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GET TO GRIPS WITH...
MACHINE SEWING
FOR BIGGER PROJECTS, EVEN A REALLY SIMPLE SEWING MACHINE WILL SPEED THINGS UP. HERE’S WHAT’S WHAT…
Sewing by hand can be wonderfully relaxing, but if you want to make bigger items such as curtains, cushions and more for your home – or lots of clothes – then you’ll need a sewing machine. Whether you’re a complete
newcomer to machine sewing or a relative beginner who could do with a refresher, here’s our top-to-bottom guide to help you find your way around your machine. We guarantee you’ll be whizzing through projects in next to no time!
THREAD FEED Your spool of thread sits at the top of the machine. It threads through a series of numbered channels and loops before it reaches the needle. This maintains an even thread tension and avoids tangles. Your machine will have a numbered dial that can be raised or lowered to adjust the tension as your fabric requires.
NEEDLE A sewing machine needle moves in and out of the fabric without going all the way through as it would in hand sewing. Most machines come with a needle already in place, but your manual will show how to swap it for a different one. Standard needles are typically size 75 or 80 (UK
sizing). For tougher jobs, such as sewing denim or very heavy curtains, go for a larger number – 110 or 120. When sewing a fine fabric such as organza or a sheer net curtain, use a fine size 60. When you buy your fabric, it’s worth asking which needle is best for the job.
BOBBIN This small plastic or metal spool sits in a special housing underneath the sewing area, below the foot and needle. Check the manual for your machine to find out exactly how to load your bobbin. Once loaded, the bobbin thread and the top thread meet to form each stitch.
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FOOT This is the metal attachment that sits beneath your needle and holds your fabric in place. There’s a lever to move it up and down. Raise it up when positioning your fabric and move it back
down when sewing. The basic presser foot is the one you’ll use most, though there are dozens of speciality feet for everything from quilting to attaching zips and creating buttonholes.
HAND WHEEL
STITCH SELECTOR
Use the hand wheel to move the needle up and down manually. It’s essential for controlling the sewing line in tight spots and corners. To avoid your thread getting caught or tangled, be sure to always turn the wheel towards you. When winding bobbins, you’ll need to disengage the needle action by pulling out the hand wheel.
Dials, switches, knobs… the method used to change the stitch type varies between machines, but the principle is the same. For most craft and home projects, all you’ll need are the basic straight stitch and zigzag. Once you’re more experienced, you can try some of the more decorative stitches your machine has to offer.
FOOT PEDAL REVERSE STITCHING Most machines have a button or switch that enables you to sew in the reverse direction. Even older machines should have a method for reverse stitching. It’s the best technique to start and finish off your sewing – all you need to do is stitch forwards and backwards for a few centimetres to secure your threads.
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Not shown in this picture, the foot pedal is connected to the machine and sits on the floor. The pedal is pressuresensitive, so gentle pressure results in slow stitching, while pressing harder will run the motor faster. Some machines also have a separate speed control, which gives you even more control over your pace.
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GET STARTED WITH SOME
SEWING KNOW-HOW FIND OUT THE BASICS OF MACHINE STITCHING, AND CHECK SOME OF THE SEWING TERMS THAT WE’LL BE USING…
Basting See ‘Tacking’.
Batting See ‘Wadding’.
Bias The bias lies at 45º to the lengthwise and widthwise grain of the fabric. Fabrics have more stretch when cut along the bias. Bias binding is a strip of fabric cut on the bias to make it flexible – it’s great for edging projects.
Fat quarter A quarter-metre (or yard) of fabric, 44.5x56cm (18x22"). Ready-cut fat quarters are available from fabric stores.
Grain The arrangement of threads in a piece of fabric. The warp
thread (which runs up and down) is stronger so holds its shape better – useful to remember when making clothes that you don’t want to stretch or lose their shape.
Interfacing A layer added to the wrong side of a piece of fabric to provide extra strength or stiffness. It can be ironed on or sewn in place.
Mitre The 45º diagonal seam made where two different pieces of fabric meet at a corner.
Overlock A type of stitch along the raw edge of a piece (or pieces) of fabric to stop fraying. Many sewing machines have an overlock option.
Press A method of smoothing out creases that’s gentle on the grain of a piece of fabric. Unlike ironing, you don’t move the iron back and forth – you lift it between presses.
Right side The front of a piece of fabric, which shows the design. Some fabrics don’t have an obvious RS, so just think of it as the side that will face outwards.
cut from a roll, usually tightly woven so it doesn’t fray. It may have information printed on it such as the manufacturer and the pattern repeat length.
Tacking A long running stitch used to loosely hold a project together while you check placement/ sizing. Referred to as ‘basting’ in the US.
Wadding
The distance you need to leave between your stitching and the edge of your fabric. It can vary, but should be stated on each project.
Available in different weights (thicknesses) it forms the padded layer in quilts between the top and bottom fabrics, and can be used for other projects such as our roll-up mat on page 83. It’s sometimes called ‘batting’.
Selvedge
Wrong side
The edge of a piece of fabric
The back of a piece of fabric.
Seam allowance
MACHINE STITCHING
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Raise the presser foot and slide the fabric under it. Your machine probably has an indicator guide on the plate, giving measuring guides for seam allowances. Line up the fabric edge with this guide.
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As you control the speed of your sewing with the foot pedal, feed the fabric under the presser foot. If you find you need to support the fabric with a little more tension, hold it in front of, and behind, the foot and ease it gently through.
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It’s easy to turn a corner without finishing your thread. Make sure the needle is down in the fabric at the point where you need to turn, then raise the foot and spin the fabric round. Lower the foot and carry on sewing.
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Once your stitching is done, finish securely by making a few stitches back and forth over your line. With the needle in the up position, raise the presser foot and pull out your fabric. The threads will be attached, so snip these off.
Stay golden Up the glam factor with Hannah Silvani’s statement metallic midi skirt
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HOW TO MAKE… A METALLIC SKIRT MATERIALS Q Gold pleated fabric, 1m (393/8") (we used gold crumple accordion pleated pleuche fabric from www.ivyverynice. etsy.com) Q Black elastic, 1m (393/8"), 5cm (2") wide Q Matching sewing thread
Planning on trawling the shops to find an outfit for party season or drinks with the girls? Spend an afternoon with your sewing machine instead and whip up Hannah’s surprisingly easy skirt – you don’t even need a pattern as you’ll use your own measurements, adjusting the length to suit. Ticking the boxes for all this season’s biggest trends (metallics, velvet, pleats... no need to thank us), just add a simple black top and
Hannah Silvani Hannah has always enjoyed making, and at the moment she’s on a mission to sew an entirely handmade wardrobe. One half of The New Craft House, Hannah works alongside pal Rosie creating crafty tutorials as well as their range of DIY kits.
www.thenewcrafthouse.com
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heels, accessorise with a bright clutch and a slick of red lipstick, and you’ll be party-ready in no time. See you on the dance floor! Measure around your waist at the narrowest point. Multiply this by 1.5 to get your fabric width measurement, then measure from your waist to the finished length you’d like your skirt to be for your fabric length measurement. 02 Taking care not to stretch the pleats, and with the pleats running down the length of the skirt, cut the fabric to size, then cut a piece of elastic 10cm (4") shorter than your waist measurement. 03 With fabric right side (RS) up and using a basting stitch, sew two lines across the top of the skirt – one 1.5cm (5/8") from the edge and one 1cm (3/8") from the edge. 01
Holding the ends of the threads from these lines of stitching, gently pull and begin to gather the width of the skirt. Continue until the skirt width measures the same as the length of elastic, being careful not to snap the threads. 05 Pin the elastic to the top edge of the skirt, both with RS up and overlapping the skirt and elastic edges by 2cm (¾"). Using zigzag stitch, sew along the width of the skirt, 1.5cm (5/8") up from the bottom edge of the elastic. Snip out the basting stitches. 06 With RS together, pin the skirt along the side seam edge. Sew together along the length using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance. 07 To hem the skirt, fold the bottom edge over to the wrong side by 1cm (3/8") twice, pin in place, then sew. 04
The
bomber jacket Ward off chills with Lana Red’s new-season take on this iconic cover-up
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HOW TO MAKE… A BOMBER JACKET MATERIALS Q Oversized jumper Q Patterned cotton fabric, 1.5m (591/8") Q Contrasting/ matching lining fabric, 1.5m (591/8") Q Ribbed knit fabric, 50cm (19¾") Q Zip, 50cm (19¾") Q Squared paper Q Matching shades of sewing thread
This lightweight jacket is a must for layering up on cooler days or as an evening cover-up when the weather’s a little warmer – spend an afternoon with your sewing machine and a pile of bright fabric and you’ll be the envy of everyone. Lana’s teamed a playful print with an eye-catching collar and cuffs to create an instant statement piece, but you could easily opt for a more subtle outer fabric and add a pop of colour with your lining instead. If you fancy making something even cosier to throw on, you can add a layer of quilt wadding between the lining and outer fabric when sewing together. You’ll only need templates for the ribbed fabric parts, as the other jacket pattern pieces are made using an oversized jumper and sheets of squared paper.
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Place the jumper face down on a piece of squared paper. Fold the sleeves to the back to reveal the shape of the shoulder seam. Trace the shape, adding an extra 5cm (2") all around. Cut out the pattern. 02 Place the sweater face up on a new piece of paper. Fold the sleeves forward to reveal the shape of the shoulder seam. Trace the right side, adding an extra 5cm (2") all around and marking the midline. Remove the sweater from the paper and add 5cm (2") to the midline. Place the sweater back onto the paper with the middle of the sweater on the midline, then trace the left side of the sweater. Cut out the pattern. 03 Place the right sleeve on a new piece of paper and trace round it, adding an extra 5cm (2") all around. Cut out the pattern. 01
Place the front and back body patterns onto the outer and lining fabric (all right side (RS) up) and cut around the paper. Place new pieces of outer and lining fabric on top of each other with RS up, then fold in half with RS together. Place the sleeve pattern against the fold. Cut the sleeve out of the fabric, then repeat for the other sleeve. 05 Put the lining fabric to one side, then place the back piece of patterned fabric onto a flat surface RS up. Place the two front pieces onto the back piece with RS together. Pin and sew the sides and shoulders together. 06 Fold the arm piece double with RS together. Pin and sew along the length, then pin and sew onto the body. Repeat for the other sleeve. 07 Measure the width of the bottom of the jacket and take off 04
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10cm (4"). Measure the bottom of the sleeves and take off 3cm (1¼"). 08 Copy the cuff template on page 123 twice – once for the sleeves and once for the bottom of the jacket. Add the measurements from Step 7 to the middle of the template between the thin black lines. Fold the ribbed fabric in half along the length then copy your new measurements onto the fold of fabric and cut out. 09 Sew the sides of the ribbed sleeve fabric together with RS together, creating a tunnel. Fold in half with wrong sides (WS) together as shown in the photo. 10 Pin the ribbed fabric to the end of the sleeves with raw edges aligned. Sew, stretching out the ribbed fabric as you go. 11 Fold the ribbed fabric for the bottom of the jacket in half with WS
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together. Pin to the bottom of the jacket with raw edges aligned then sew, again, stretching the ribbed fabric as you go. 12 Measure the neckline. Copy the collar template on page 123 and add your measurements between the two black lines in the template. Fold the ribbed fabric in half along the length with RS together, line up the template with the fold, then trace the template and cut out. Fold back in half the other way with WS together.
Pin and sew the collar to the neckline of the jacket with raw edges aligned. 14 Fold the front midlines of the jacket under. Pin and sew the zipper as shown in the photo. 15 Sew the lining pieces together as per Steps 5 and 6. 16 Press the edges of the lining fabric under and pin to the inside of the jacket, making sure to cover all seams. Sew, then turn the jacket WS out and sew the lining of the sleeves to the jacket. 13
Lana Red Lana’s DIY and lifestyle blog is dedicated to bringing innovative projects and inspiring articles to everyone’s home. With a background in art, design, fashion and theatre, she has a passion for creating and sharing unique ideas. www.lanaredstudio.com
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Go Faux Treat yourself to Delia Randall’s super-luxe faux fur and leather clutch
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HOW TO MAKE… A FAUX FUR CLUTCH MATERIALS Q Leather or pleather, fat quarter sized Q Faux fur, fat quarter sized Q Leather sewing machine needle Q Lining fabric of your choice, 25cm (97/8") Q Matching all-purpose thread
Q Zip, 30.5cm (12") Q Sewing machine and basic sewing supplies Q Quilter's clips or small binder clips Q Zipper foot Q Rotary cutter Q Cutting mat Q Fabric scissors
The next cold rainy Saturday that comes around, you’ll find us hibernating inside and sewing up this gorgeous oversized clutch. With faux fur on one side and leather on the other, it’s a textural treat, plus it’s big enough to hold all your essentials – plus a hardback novel or magazine or two – inside. Although there are a few challenging materials used here, it’s a simple enough sew for an adventurous beginner. Got a gal pal in need of a treat? Make her this as a surprise pressie. Cut one leather piece, one faux fur and two lining pieces to 36.5 x 45.5cm (15½ x 18"). Cut two leather pieces to 6.5 x 4.5cm (2½ x 1½"). 01
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Right sides (RS) together, align the small leather pieces with the ends of the zip tape and sew using an 0.5cm (½") seam allowance. Fold the leather over the seam so RS is facing up, and press firmly in place with your fingers. Alternatively you could topstitch in place, if the leather isn’t too thick. Trim the excess leather hanging over the sides of the zip tape to fit the zip width and the length of the bag pieces (the leather pieces are cut larger than needed to accommodate shifting during sewing). 03 Sandwich one side of the zip tape in between the leather piece and one of the lining pieces, RS together. Clip in place. 02
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It’s reversible too, if you’re having more of a smooth day.
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HOW TO MAKE… A FAUX FUR CLUTCH Sew using an 0.5cm (½") seam allowance. Use a zipper foot to make sewing near the teeth easier. Flip leather and lining RS out to expose the other, unsewn side of zip tape. Repeat with the faux fur and remaining lining piece. You could trim away some of the fur nearest the zip to help avoid it getting caught in the teeth. 05 Turn everything RS out. Firmly press seams down with your finger. Do not iron as this may damage the zip. However, if the leather is stubborn, then use pressing cloths, a warm iron and avoid the teeth at all cost. Topstitch along seam lines using a lengthened stitch (3-3.5mm). 04
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Flip leather and faux fur together, and the lining pieces, RS together. Sew all the way around, leaving a 7.5cm (3") opening at the bottom of the lining bag. Clip the corners to reduce bulk. 07 Turn bag RS out. Push along seam lines to help make the bag look nice and smooth. 06
Fold the 7.5cm (3") opening in the lining bag inward and flush with the sewn seam. Pin in place. Sew a straight line of stitching along the bottom of the lining bag, close to the edge. 09 Push the lining bag into the main bag and zip it up. If you want, tie a small strip of leather to the zip pull, or add a shoulder strap. 08
Delia Randall Delia is a 30-something work-at-home mum of three. She likes to tell people she has the two best jobs in the world: being a mother and a professional maker. She dabbles in sewing, crochet, photography and many other things creative, and blogs about it at www.deliacreates.com
Lazy days Up your loungewear game in The New Craft House’s cosy-glam swan pyjamas
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HOW TO MAKE… PYJAMA BOTTOMS MATERIALS Q Light to mediumweight woven fabric, 2.5m (981/8") Q Matching sewing thread Q Elastic, 1m (393/8"), 0.5cm (¼") wide Q Ribbon, 60cm (235/8"), 1.5cm (5/8") wide Q Paper for templates Q Tailor’s chalk SIZES Q Small (UK 8-10) Q Medium (UK 10-12) Q Large (UK 12-14)
There’s nothing better than coming home on a chilly evening and changing straight into a slouchy jumper, woolly socks and your favourite PJs. This pair will let everyone know you’re officially offduty and ready to curl up on the sofa for the evening. We’ve used Bonnie Christine’s Hello Ollie fabric in Swanlings Bevy Peach, designed for Art Gallery Fabrics, as we’re seriously crushing on all things swan-related. But this straightforward pattern would work just as well with brushed cotton for a classic pyjama feel. Use a seam allowance of 1.5cm (5/8"), clipping the curves where necessary so the seam allowances lie flat, and making sure to press your seams open throughout.
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Using the templates at www. molliemakes.com/category/ templates/sewing-special-2, trace out your pattern pieces in small, medium or large onto pattern paper or greaseproof paper. 02 Fold your fabric in half lengthways with wrong sides (WS) facing, then pin the pattern pieces to the fabric, matching the grain line on the pattern to the straight grain of the fabric. Cut around the pattern pieces carefully and mark all notches. Mark the buttonholes and pocket markers on using tailor’s chalk. If you’re using a directional print fabric, cut the pieces in the right direction. 03 Using the buttonhole foot, make a buttonhole on both of the front leg pieces at the markings, 01
ensuring it’s wide enough to fit the elastic through. 04 Fold the top of the pocket piece to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), then again by 1.5cm (5/8"). Press and sew in place. Fold over the remaining three sides of your pocket to the WS, again by 0.5cm (¼"), and press. 05 Place the pocket on the right side back leg piece, matching it up with the pocket markers and with right side (RS) up. Pin in place, then top stitch around the two sides and bottom of the pocket, close to the edge. 06 Place one front and one back leg with RS together, lining them up along the inner legs with notches matching. Pin and sew along the inner leg seam, then press the seam open, as shown above.
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Find full-size templates here www.molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
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Repeat this step for the other front and back leg. 07 Place both leg pieces RS together, lining them up around the crotch seam. Pin and sew around the curve. Sew another seam 0.5cm (¼") down from this line of stitching, and trim off any excess seam allowance above the first line. 08 With RS still together, match the two side seams of the pyjamas. Pin and sew both sides together along the length. 09 Fold over the bottom of the pyjama legs to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), then again by 1.5cm (5/8"). Press and sew in place. 10 Fold over the waistband of the pyjamas to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), then again by 2.5cm (1"). Check the
buttonholes are positioned in the centre of the band, then press and pin. Sew in place along the bottom of the waistband, then turn the pyjamas RS out. 11 Measure the elastic around your hips where the trousers will sit and mark at a comfortable length. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic, then push through one buttonhole all the way around
the waistband, being careful not to twist the elastic. Pull out of the same buttonhole, cross the two ends of the elastic over each other so they lie flat, and sew together at the mark made earlier. Push the elastic back into the buttonhole so it all sits inside the waistband. 12 Thread the length of ribbon through the buttonholes and tie in a bow to finish.
The New Craft House Rosie and Hannah are the duo behind awardwinning blog The New Craft House. Friends since childhood, the pair learned to knit together on the school bus. They both love using traditional crafts in modern projects and have also launched their own range of craft kits. www.thenewcrafthouse.com
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LANDSCAPE IMAGES IN TEXT: © WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/BETTY4240, WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/NICODEMOS
Try your hand at a simple pattern hack with April Rhodes’ flirty cross-back tee
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HOW TO MAKE… A CROSS-BACK TEE MATERIALS Q Pattern Q Fabric Q Thread Q Fabric chalk or marker Q Pattern tracing paper (we used 830® Easy Pattern® by Pellon) Q Pen or pencil Q Large French curve ruler Q DRITZ-EZY-HEM by Dritz or other metal hem gauge for pressing
If you’ve already mastered a few beginners’ dressmaking techniques, then learning how to pattern hack is an easy way to create unique items and make your purchased patterns work even harder. This pretty cross-back tee by April Rhodes is just the thing for date nights, drinks with the girls or picnics when spring arrives, and can be easily made from a simple T-shirt, tank or dress pattern. April used her own Staple Dress pattern (available from www. april-rhodes.com), but some other good matches would be the Wiksten Tank (www.shopwiksten. com) or the Scout Tee (www. grainlinestudio.com). As for fabrics, anything with a light drape, such as voile, silk or tissue knit will work
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well. Purchase according to your pattern’s instructions and pre-wash to accommodate shrinkage. It’s always a good idea to make a practice version with muslin or another inexpensive fabric first – you can use tacking stitches, rip it apart and make adjustments. If you’ve chosen to alter a dress into a tee, cut and shorten the pattern to your desired length. Trace all of your pattern pieces (front, neck facings, sleeves and so on) apart from the back piece. Transfer any markings. Most patterns are only one half of the full finished piece (i.e. place on fold), giving you a perfectly symmetrical piece once cut out. To draft your new open back pieces, you’ll first 01
need a full-size back pattern piece. So, before tracing, fold your pattern paper in half, place the folded edge of your paper on the original pattern’s ‘place on fold line’ and then trace. Mark the front centre neckline with a V notch. 02 Cut out the tracing of the full back pattern piece. Then, using your French curve, draw a line from the top right side of the neckline, about 2.5cm (1") from the shoulder, down to the bottom left corner of your pattern piece. Keep your line smooth, with no harsh points or bumps. 03 Cut out the new back pattern piece. Have a friend hold it up to you and check the opening will hit where you want it to. Note that the piece will be about 1.5cm
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(5/8") smaller on all sides, including the open/curved edge. 04 Cut all of your pieces from the fabric. Use your pattern’s suggested cutting layout for all pieces except the back. For the new back pieces, fold the fabric in half, wrong sides (WS) together, place your pattern on top of both layers and cut out. Be sure to cut the V notch out at the neckline, and transfer any other marks or notches included in the original pattern. You now have two back pieces, one left and one right. 05 Finish the curved edges of the back pieces. To do this, take one piece and press the curved edge under 1.5cm (5/8") toward the WS of the fabric. Using a walking foot attachment can help reduce
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puckers – take your time slowly. Unfold and turn the raw edge into the crease, refold and press again. Steam and pin well, then edgestitch along the fold. Repeat with your second piece. 06 Align the two back pieces at the neckline, matching the centre notch. Pin together. 07 Increase your stitch length to 4 or 5mm (¼") and sew a tacking
stitch along the back neckline to secure the two pieces together. Now treat these as one piece. 08 Hem the front of the shirt 1.5cm (5/8") to the WS, just as you did with the back curved edges. Then continue assembling as instructed in your original pattern. Sew shoulders and side seams. Finish the neck opening, and armholes or sleeves.
April Rhodes April designs prints for Art Gallery Fabrics and also creates her own women’s garment patterns. She lives in Ohio with her husband and daughters and keeps busy with life and crafty adventures of all kinds. She loves to travel and relishes the opportunity to connect with sewists in real life and on Instagram. www.april-rhodes.com
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. . . e b o r d r a W Raid His
BACKGROUND: © WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/TOMOGRAF
And rustle up Emily Kalinowski’s flirty button-down skirt over the weekend
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HOW TO MAKE… A SKIRT FROM A SHIRT MATERIALS Q Men’s button down shirt, size XL or larger Q Matching thread Q Fabric marker or pencil Q Seam ripper Q Fray Check (optional)
Ooh, we do love a clever upcycle. This nifty project should keep your wardrobe stocked up with new skirts by re-purposing old men’s shirts – go for pastel linens, bold plaid flannel or fun novelty prints. If you fancy adding more gathers, use a bigger shirt size. For a more fitted, pencil-style skirt, go for a smaller size. Determine your skirt’s length by measuring from your waist to above your knees, then adding 1.5cm (½"). Cut this length from the bottom of the button down shirt. This will be your skirt piece. To stop the finished skirt gaping below the waistband, cut 2.5-3.5cm (1-1½") above a button. 02 For the waistband pieces, measure a rectangle from the remaining top portion of the shirt 16.5cm (6½") tall and as wide as your waist measurement divided by two, plus 2.5cm (1½"). For example, if your waist measures 76cm (30"), the rectangle will be 16.5 x 40.5cm (6½ x 16"). Cut through both the front and back layers of the shirt at the same time to create two pieces, keeping the buttons in the centre of the rectangle. The bottom button should be 5-7cm (2-3") from the bottom cut edge. 01
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Use a seam ripper to take off the top button and any remaining parts of the pocket. There should be one button remaining, which will be used to fasten the waistband. 04 Place the waistband pieces right sides (RS) together. Sew both of the short edges with an overlock stitch. Unbutton the waistband so that it’s one long strip of fabric. Press the seams in. 05 Fold the waistband in half along the length, wrong sides (WS) together. Match up the remaining button with the correct buttonhole. Make a second buttonhole in the fabric layer behind it so the waistband can be buttoned – to do this, use a fabric marker or pencil to mark a line through the existing buttonhole onto the fabric behind. Unfold the waistband. Lengthen the buttonhole mark by 0.5cm (¼") on each end and machine stitch. 06 Fold the waistband in half along the length again, WS together, and press. Sew from the folded top 03
edge to the bottom raw edge on both sides of the button and both sides of the buttonhole. 07 Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch setting and sew two lines of stitching along the entire raw edge of the skirt piece you cut in Step 1. Pull the fabric along the stitch to gather the skirt to the length of the waistband. Leave the button and the buttonhole edges un-gathered. 08 First double-check the size by buttoning the waistband around you. Pin the gathered skirt to the waistband RS together with the raw edges lined up. Keep the side seams of the waistband lined up with the side seams on the skirt. Sew the entire length of the waistband with an overlock stitch. Sew the fabric with the gathered side up, feeding it evenly under the needle. If you want, add a bit of Fray Check to keep loose ends in place. Open the waistband away from the gathered skirt. Trim excess threads and press to finish.
Emily Kalinowski Social worker, nanny and seamstress Emily loves to make skirts, so when her closet started overflowing she decided to open up her own shop. See more of her creations at www.threadsbyemily.etsy.com
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Take me out Accessorise your next night out with Teri Muncey’s painted metallic leather clutch
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HOW TO MAKE… A PAINTED CLUTCH MATERIALS Q Two rectangles of coloured leather the size of your desired bag plus 1cm (3/8") all around Q Extra small scrap of the same leather Q Zip slightly longer than the leather Q Scissors Q Pen Q Gold leather paint Q Paintbrush Q Machine cotton thread Q Ruler Q Masking tape Q Pins Q All-purpose glue
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Finish off that party outfit with a super jazzy clutch featuring eyecatching painted metallic accents. We used real leather from a local fabric shop, but you can easily use leatherette, which is cheaper. Just make sure it has a soft underside as the bag isn’t lined. Don’t panic if your gold leather paint looks a bit orange and lacking in metallic sheen when you first apply it. The effect and colour will change as the paint dries. Start by painting a zigzag design all over the right sides (RS) of both leather rectangles, alternating the angle at which you paint the shapes. Try to keep the spacing relatively even, but 01
there’s no need to measure. Keep it fun and freeform. 02 Lie the zip along the top (longer edge) of the leather, matching on one end. On the other, measure in about 1cm (3/8") from the edge of the leather and mark on the zip with a pen. 03 Set your machine to a zigzag stitch, as close together as possible. Stitch over the zip where the pen marking is. Crank the machine by hand to begin with if you’re worried about it hitting the zip. Go backwards and forwards a few times to create a new end for the zip, which should now fit perfectly on the bag. 04 Tape the zip to the long edge of the leather, RS together. Match
the leather and zip up at the top so they’re aligned. 05 Set your machine to a straight stitch, with a zipper foot if you have one. Line RS of the foot up with the edge of the zip and leather. Try and get as close to the zip as possible without the needle actually colliding with it. Sew a straight stitch all the way along, pausing a little way from the end. 06 Lift up the foot and gently tug at the zip to open it and slide it past the needle. Then continue the straight stitch right to the end. 07 Pin the second leather rectangle to the zip, RS together and aligning both edges. 08 Open up the leather to reveal the zip and check that you’ve
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HOW TO MAKE… A PAINTED CLUTCH pinned it correctly. It should resemble the photo. 09 Repeat Step 5 on this side. 10 Turn the leather out flat so you can see the topside. Straight stitch either side of the zip, roughly 0.5cm (¼") away. Turn the other way so the leather pieces are RS together. You now have your bag’s shape. Change the zipper back to the general foot, open the zip halfway and pin or tape the leather rectangles together. Sew a straight stitch all the way around the edge, 1cm (3/8") in. If you want to make the corners slightly easier to turn out then make the stitch line rounded rather than a harsh right angle. Open the zip and turn the clutch bag RS out.
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Cut another leather rectangle for the tassel, any length but roughly 10cm (4") wide. On the wrong side (WS), measure 1cm (3/8") down from the top and draw a line the whole way along. This will give you a guide to show where to trim each strip up to. Cut strips up to the line, 0.5cm (¼") wide, right the way to the edge. Then cut an extra 11
0.5cm (¼") strip from the leather, make a loop, glue the end and attach to the end of the leather. 12 Now add a line of glue all the way along the top and roll up tightly, starting from the looped end. Then cut another extra leather rectangle, about 1cm (3/8") thick, glue the back and wrap this round the top to finish off.
Teri Muncey Teri is a DIY and interiors blogger and freelance designer living in West London. A self-confessed stationery and typography nerd, she works from her cosy flat and spends her free time dreaming up new craft tutorials, drinking copious amounts of tea and cooking up a (usually spicy) storm. www.thelovelydrawer.com
Join the fash pack with Hannah Silvani’s multi-coloured fake fur stole
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HOW TO MAKE… A FAUX FUR STOLE MATERIALS Q White faux fur, 110 x 50cm (433/8 x 19¾") Q Lining fabric, 113 x 18cm (445/8 x 71/8") Q Fabric dye (We used Dylon Fabric Dye in Navy Blue and Burlesque Red) Q Salt, 200g (8oz) Q Matching sewing thread
Work some vintage glamour into even your most boring wardrobe combos with an easy faux fur stole. We’ll be draping ours over bare shoulders on nights out to keep the chill off. We’ve colour blocked panels coloured with blue and red dyes to create a graduated purple effect, but your end result will depend on both the dye used and the fabric itself. Faux fur absorbs dye very differently to cotton fabric, so you’re likely to end up with a different colour to that shown on the dye packet. If your fabric is 100% polyester, use a dye specifically for synthetic fibres. Cut two 30 x 50cm (117/8 x 19¾") pieces of faux fur. Mix up the two dyes in two separate containers as per the manufacturer’s instructions – ours required warm water and salt adding to them. You won’t need to use the whole sachet for a piece of fabric this size. 01
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Immerse a piece of faux fur in each container of dye and hold it down with a spoon or similar until it’s completely submerged. Leave for roughly 1-2 hours. 03 Rinse in cold water until the water runs clear, then hang up your pieces of faux fur to dry. 04 Cut an 18 x 63cm (71/8 x 247/8") piece from your undyed white fur, two 18 x 13cm (71/8 x 5¼") pieces from your blue fur and two 18 x 18cm (71/8 x 71/8") pieces from your purple fur (coloured using the Burlesque Red dye). 05 With right sides (RS) together and aligning the 18cm (71/8") edges, sew a blue and purple piece using 02
a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance. If any fur gets caught in the seam, trim it back and brush it out after. 06 Sew one short end of the white piece to the opposite side of the blue piece in the same way, then sew the remaining blue piece to the other short end of the white faux fur. Sew the remaining purple piece to the other 18cm (71/8") side of the blue faux fur. 07 Pin the lining to the fur with RS together. Sew around the outside using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, leaving a 20cm (77/8") gap along one long edge. Turn through to the RS and neatly slip stitch the gap closed to finish.
Hannah Silvani Hannah is one half of The New Craft House. She works alongside pal Rosie in their London studio, where they blog about their latest craft projects, make sewing and knitting kits for their online store, and organise workshops. www.thenewcrafthouse.com
Easy Sew
Kimono We asked Kinsey Mhire to come up with a wardrobe update you can make in under an hour – done!
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HOW TO MAKE… A QUICK KIMONO MATERIALS Q 2m (393/8") jersey fabric Q Measuring tape Q Sewing machine (or spool of thread and needle if you're sewing by hand)
Get home from work on Friday and sew up something to wear that evening with this genius quick make. Using jersey fabric means there’s no need to hem the edges, making everything super-speedy. Drapey kimonos like this have that 80s cocoon shape nailed – you can throw them on over anything. We’ll be making one in every colour. After all, it won’t take very long! Begin by laying out your fabric and folding it in half width-wise. One side will become the front of the kimono and the other side will be the back. 02 Cut directly down the middle of the front side all the way to the 01
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edge of the fold, creating two front flaps. Next, cut 7.5cm (3") directly across the fold on either side of the flaps, creating the neck hole. 03 Lastly, right sides (RS) facing inward, sew 25cm (97/8") below the fold to create arm holes. Then sew
15cm (6") above the hem to create splits on the sides for extra detail. Turn RS out and your kimono is ready to wear.
Kinsey Mhire Kinsey is a blogger and full-time wedding photographer based in Kansas City, Missouri. When she’s not at home with her husband and their furry husky, you’ll find her exploring local art and music venues, rock climbing at her favourite climbing gym, or road tripping, hiking and camping throughout the country. www.sincerelykinsey.com
Lazy mornings
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA STEELE & BECKI CLARK, MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA
Lounging around has never looked so glam as with H & Sammy’s dressing gown
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HOW TO MAKE… A DRESSING GOWN MATERIALS Q Cotton fabric, 115 x 325cm (453/8 x 128") (we used Tanya Whelan’s Lola fabric for FreeSpirit in Paisley, Blue) Q Matching sewing thread
This dressing gown was made for slow Sunday mornings. And Saturday mornings. In fact, pretty much any morning when you don’t feel like getting showered and dressed straight away, but don’t want to look like you’ve only just crawled out of bed. H & Sammy have chosen a lightweight cotton fabric, but cotton waffle would work just as well for that luxury hotel feel, or opt for a fleecy fabric if you’re after a snuggly finish. Wash your fabric first in case it shrinks slightly, and use a seam allowance of 1.5cm (5/8") throughout unless stated. 01 Wash and iron the fabric before starting, then fold in half along the length with wrong sides (WS) together. Photocopy and cut out
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the pattern pieces using the templates on page 120, then pin them to the fabric as shown in the template diagram. Cut out all pattern pieces from the fabric. 02 Sew around the curved edges on each piece, 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge, to prevent the edges of the fabric from stretching. 03 With right sides (RS) together, place the front pieces onto the back piece, aligning the raw edges of the front and back sides. Pin and sew along both side seams. 04 Pin one sleeve front and one sleeve back RS together, aligning the raw edges as shown. Sew along the length of the curved shoulder and underarm seams. 05 Fold over the cuff of the sleeve to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), press,
then fold over again by 2.5cm (1"). Press and sew, then repeat Steps 4-5 for the second sleeve. 06 Turn one sleeve RS out. Holding the body towards you, pin the sleeve to the armhole edge all the way around the outside, with RS together and matching the markings. Sew around the edge joining sleeve to body. 07 Repeat Step 6 to sew the second sleeve onto the remaining armhole of the garment body. 08 Fold over the hem at the bottom of the gown to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), press, then fold over again by 2.5cm (1"). Press and sew in place. 09 With RS facing, sew the two neck band pieces together along one short edge. Fold over the hem along one long edge of the
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sewn band to the WS by 1cm (3/8"), then press in place. 10 Pin the raw long edge of the neck band to the raw edge of the garment with RS together, starting at the centre back neckline and working your way to the bottom hem. There will be roughly 1cm (3/8") overhanging the bottom of the body at either side. Sew along the edge of the band. 11 Cut small notches along the seam allowance between the garment and the band where it curves to remove any bulk, being careful not to cut the seam. Press the seam towards the band. 12 Fold up the bottom overhang of the band to align with the bottom of the gown, then fold the band over to the WS of the gown.
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Top stitch all the way around the edge of the band. 13 Fold over all four edges of the tie casing to the WS by 0.5cm (¼") and pin it along the waistline on the back of the gown. Sew in place along the two long edges. 14 With RS together, pin and sew the two tie pieces along one short edge. Fold the tie in half along the length with RS together, pin, then
sew along the length, 0.5cm (¼") in from the raw edge. 15 Turn the tie through to the RS and press. Neatly slip stitch the short ends closed, then thread through the tie casing at the back to finish the dressing gown.
Live it. Love it. Make it. Bloggers, crafters and best friends, H and Sammy’s website is packed with lifestyle inspiration and plenty of sewing tutorials. Follow their craft adventures on Instagram @liveit.loveit.makeit and find lots of lovely things on their Pinterest @livelovemakeit. www.liveitloveitmakeit.com
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Laundry Day Add a sleek feel to your space with Hester van Overbeek’s customisable copper washing hamper
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HOW TO MAKE… A LAUNDRY BASKET MATERIALS Q Three copper pipes, 1.5cm (5/8") thick, 2m (787/8") long Q Eight copper elbow pieces, 1.5cm (5/8") thick Q Pipe cutter Q Cotton fabric, 42cm x 3m (16½ x 1181/8") Q Strong multipurpose glue Q Six buttons
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Almost too gorgeous to be confined to a corner, this industrial-inspired laundry basket is surprisingly simple to make. Cutting the pipes to size is a breeze, and they’re easily connected with pre-made corner pieces and a dab of glue. Pick a fabric that fits with your décor – we love this monochrome look, but style up to suit your colour scheme. Using the pipe cutter, cut four 60cm (23 5/8") pieces, two 45cm 01
(17¾") pieces and two 42cm (16½") pieces. Simply mark on the pipe where your cut needs to be, push it into the cutter and twist around until your cut is made. 02 Add glue in two of the elbow pieces, then make a U shape with a 45cm (17¾") piece at the base and two 60cm (23 5/8") pieces either side – assemble on a flat surface to get the corners at a 90° angle. 03 Repeat Step 2, then glue the remaining elbow pieces to the ends of the two 42cm (16½") pieces.
To finish the frame, join the two U shapes at the top points with the two 42cm (16½") pieces. 05 Cut the fabric along the length into two 60cm (23 5/8") lengths and one 1.8m (711/8") length. 06 Press the edges of the 1.8m (711/8") piece under by 1cm (3/8") and sew close to the edge to hem. Repeat with one short edge on both the 60cm (23 5/8") pieces. 07 Make three button holes in both short edges of the longer fabric piece, around 3cm (1¼") down. 04
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HOW TO MAKE‌ A LAUNDRY BASKET Line up the raw edge of a 60cm (23 5/8") piece with the side hem of the longer piece, 69cm (271/8") down from the top and right sides (RS) together. Pin and sew. Repeat with the other 60cm (23 5/8") piece. 09 Line up a side hem of the 60cm (23 5/8") piece with the side hem of the 1.8m (711/8") piece next to it. Pin in place with RS together. 10 Repeat with all the side seams to create a large sack, then sew the pinned seams together, 1cm (3/8") from the edge. 08
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Hang the sack over the copper frame, folding over the edges with button holes. Pin in place and mark on where the buttons need to be. 11
Attach the buttons, then hang the fabric bag over the frame and close the buttons. The hamper is now ready to be used. 12
Hester van Overbeek Author Hester has now written four DIY and crafting books, the latest of which is Made With Salvaged Wood. She was probably the only toddler who wanted to be an interior designer, but her dreams have been fulfilled with her DIY blog, Hester’s Handmade Home. www.hestershandmadehome.com
duvet day
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY & BECKI CLARK
Look forward to Sunday morning lie-ins with Lynne Goldsworthy’s contemporary patchwork quilt
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HOW TO MAKE… A MORNING STAR QUILT MATERIALS Q Background fabric, 2.5m (981/8") Q Scrap fabrics, 2.6m (1023/8") total or 12 fat quarters Q Backing fabric, 3.5m (1377/8") Q Binding fabric, 50cm (19¾") or 2 fat quarters Q Wadding, 1.7m (68") square Q Paper for templates Q Rotary cutter Q Cutting mat
If you’ve never given quilting a go before, this Nordic-feel project is a great place to start. Not only does it tap into the trend for all things Scandi, it’s also a beautiful heirloom make. Start it now and give to someone special as a thoughtful (and seriously impressive) Christmas gift. Made using the traditional morning star quilt block in fresh, contemporary fabrics, this is pieced together from triangles and squares using basic quilting techniques that are easy to master. Lynne used a ‘Handmade by Bonnie and Camille for Moda Fabrics’ fat quarter bundle for the top, back and binding, then Robert Kaufman Kona Cotton in Snow for the background. But you can mix and match fabrics of your
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own if you prefer, or switch up the colour scheme – we like the idea of using a selection of solid brights against a wintery grey base. Cutting 01 Cut the print fabrics into twelve 11cm (4½") squares for the small star centres, thirteen 16.5cm (6½") squares for the large star centres, twelve 16.5cm (6½") squares for the small star HSTs (half square triangles) and thirteen 21.5cm (8½") squares for the larger star HSTs. 02 Cut the background fabric into sixteen 6cm (2½") WOF (width of fabric) strips and cut those into forty-eight 6cm (2½") squares, twenty-four 6 x 21.5cm (2½ x 8½") strips and twenty-four 6 x 5cm (2½ x 12½") strips. Then cut five 9cm
(3½") WOF strips and cut those into fifty-two 9cm (3½") squares, cut two 16.5cm (6½") WOF strips and cut those into twelve 16.5cm (6½") squares and cut three 21.5cm (8½") WOF strips and cut those into thirteen 21.5cm (8½") squares. 03 Sew the two binding fat quarters end to end and cut into six 6cm (2½") WOF strips. 04 Cut the backing fabric into two equal lengths. Making the quilt top 05 Photocopy twelve small HST templates and thirteen large HST templates from page 123. Pair together print and background fabric squares with right sides (RS) together to make the eight HSTs in each of the blocks – 16.5cm (6½")
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squares will be used with the small HST templates and 21.5cm (8½") squares will be used with the large HST templates. Pin a pair to an HST template with the background fabric and reverse of the template together, making sure the fabric overhangs by at least 0.5cm (¼") all round. 06 Shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.5 to make removing the paper easier, then sew along the green lines. 07 Trim any excess paper and fabric and cut along the blue lines, through both the template and fabric, using a rotary cutter. Trim along the red lines to clip the corners, then press the HSTs open – do this before removing the paper to get a straighter seam.
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Tear away the paper from the back of the HSTs, then with RS and matching fabrics together, sew along the side of one white triangle and press open. 09 Sew two of these HST pairs to a star centre square and sew background fabric squares to the ends of two more of these pairs as shown above – 11cm (4½") print and 6cm (2½") background fabric squares will be used for the twelve smaller stars and 16.5cm (6½") print and 9cm (3½") background fabric squares will be used for the thirteen larger stars. Press seams away from the HSTs in each section. 10 Sew the three rows together to complete a morning star block, pressing the seams towards the centre of the block. 08
Sew 6 x 21.5cm (2½ x 8½") background fabric strips to both sides of each of the smaller star blocks, then sew 6 x 5cm (2½ x 12½") background fabric strips to the top and bottom of each of the smaller stars. 12 Sew the star blocks into five rows of five as shown in the diagram on page 44 and press the seams away from the larger star blocks in each row. Sew the five rows together to finish the quilt top. 11
Finishing 13 Sew the two pieces of backing fabric together along the length using a 0.5cm (½") seam. Press the seam open. 14 Layer the backing RS down, wadding and finally quilt top RS
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HOW TO MAKE… A MORNING STAR QUILT up and tack together. Top stitch as desired – we quilted diagonally across our finished patchwork using a walking foot. 15 Sew the binding strips together in one continuous length, then press in half along the length with wrong sides together. 16 With the quilt RS up, attach the binding to the first edge starting halfway along, leaving 10cm (4") unattached at the start. Stop sewing 0.5cm (¼") from the edge of the quilt, then turn 45° and sew to the corner. Remove from the machine and rotate to the next edge. 17 Next, pull the binding strip up away from the quilt in line with the raw edge so it forms a 45° angle at the corner. Hold the fold in place
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then bring the binding strip back down along the edge of the quilt, aligning the edges. Pin in place and begin sewing the next seam from the top edge. 18 Continue around the four edges in the same way, stopping 10cm (4") away from the starting point. Fold back the two ends of the binding at 45° so they touch, and mark with
a pin. Open out the binding and join the ends with a diagonal seam. Trim to a 0.5cm (¼") seam and press it open, then refold and finish stitching the binding in place. 19 Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and slip stitch in place by hand. At the corners, fold the edges over in the opposite order to the front to mitre them neatly.
Lynne Goldsworthy Lynne is a modern British quilt designer who goes by the name of Lily’s Quilts. She’s written three quilting books (her most recent being Quick And Easy Quilts), is a regular UK quilting magazine contributor and designs beautiful quilts for several different quilting fabric companies.
www.lilysquilts.blogspot.com
Sofa succulent Nurture your succulent obsession with Hannah Hathaway’s statement cushion
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HOW TO MAKE… A SUCCULENT CUSHION MATERIALS Q Flannel fabric, 1.5m (591/8") Q Matching thread Q Polyester stuffing Q Acrylic paint Q Microwave Q Paper towels
Ahhhh, succulents – those highly-Instagramable little plants are all over the place thanks to their unusual textures, inspiring forms and chalky pastel shades. Sadly we’re not that green-fingered around here and often manage to kill ours off (which takes some doing, we know), so we’re pretty in love with this XXL-sized version that can happily live on our sofa. You could choose fabric colours that mimic a real succulent and add paint shades from the same family, or let your imagination run wild with a more colourful version. Succulents come in all different shapes, sizes and colours, so mix
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it up and create a whole vibrant, oversized garden. First cut out the templates on page 124 and assemble as directed (you can tape the half circles together). Cut the relevant number of fabric pieces for each shape. Cut two fabric circles. 02 Place two petal pieces right sides (RS) together, sides aligned. Sew the edges together using a 2.5cm (1") seam allowance. Be sure to leave a small opening at the bottom for turning. 03 Turn the petal RS out through the opening. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for all petals. 01
Using watered-down acrylic paint, lightly add some colour to the sides and tips of the petals, as shown. The more you water down the paint, the more smoothly it will attach to the fabric. 05 To speed up the drying process, place the petals in a microwave for around one minute, stopping and checking on them every 10 seconds. 06 To set the paint, iron over the petals with a paper towel in between for 3-5 minutes. If you want to wash the cushion, we recommend washing separately from other items in case the colour still runs. Also, don’t use the 04
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steam setting on your iron as it’ll ruin the paint. 07 Place the two circle pieces RS together, sides aligned. Sew the edges together, again leaving a small opening at the bottom for turning. This will create the main cushion body. 08 Turn RS out through the gap. Fill with stuffing and sew the opening closed. 09 Fill each petal with a small amount of stuffing, sew the opening closed and begin attaching them to the perimeter of the circle, largest size first, one by one. Feel free to mix and match petal sizes as you continue adding
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them, depending on the look you want to achieve. 10 Once you reach the inner row, wrap the horizontal petals around the smallest ones to create the centre bud. Attach to the centre.
Hannah Hathaway Hannah is a 20-something United States Marine wife and mum to three adorable kiddos. She writes about her crafty adventures on her blog, We Lived Happily Ever After, as well as working as an artist and graphic designer. Her dream is to buy a historical fixer-upper house with her husband and re-do it room by room. www.welivedhappilyeverafter.com
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Too hot to handle Up the style stakes with your kitchen accessories – Ali Burdon shows you how
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HOW TO MAKE… A POT HOLDER AND OVEN GLOVE MATERIALS For the pot holder Q 40 x 45cm (15¾ x 17¾") main fabric (we used Cloud 9 Fabrics Underwater by Elizabeth Olwen in Reef) Q 25 x 60cm (97/8 x 235/8") contrasting fabric (we used Jane Makower Fabrics Inprint in Stitch Check) Q 25 x 43cm (97/8 x 17") cotton wadding (we used Warm & Natural) Q 25 x 43cm (97/8 x 17") insulated wadding (we used Insul-Bright)
For the oven glove Q 42 x 33cm (16½ x 13") main fabric (we used Cloud 9 Fabrics Underwater by Elizabeth Olwen in Oceanfloor) Q 40 x 40cm (15¾ x 15¾") contrasting fabric (we used Jane Makower Fabrics Inprint in Stitch Check) Q 44 x 35cm (173/8 x 13¾") cotton wadding Q 44 x 35cm (173/8 x 13¾") insulated wadding Q 31 x 39cm (12¼ x 153/8") iron-on cotton interfacing (we used Vilene G700)
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If you’re currently the owner of a battered oven glove or pot holder, get out the sewing machine and prettify your kitchen. Ali’s picked a contemporary print for a modern vibe, and the heat-proof wadding makes these practical too. Use a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. Pot holder 01 Cut a 22cm (8¾") square from the main and contrasting fabrics, then cut a slightly bigger square from both types of wadding. With fabrics right side (RS) out, sandwich the two layers of wadding in between, placing the insulated wadding against the contrasting fabric. Pin, then top stitch 4cm (15/8") squares on the diagonal, making the first lines near the middle and working outwards. Cut the quilted piece into a 20cm (77/8") diameter circle. 02 Cut a 4.5 x 20cm (17/8 x 77/8") strip from the contrasting fabric to make the binding. Press in half along the length with wrong sides (WS) together, open, then press the long edges to the centre with WS together.
Using the template on page 128, cut two pocket pieces from the main fabric and one from both waddings. With fabrics RS out, sandwich the waddings in between. Pin the binding to the straight edge of the pocket, aligning raw edges, and sew. Fold the binding to the other side of the pocket, aligning raw edges, then slip stitch in place. 04 Place the pocket on top of the quilted piece with the insulated wadding facing RS out. Tack the pocket in place, just in from the edge. Cut a 4 x 13cm (15/8 x 5¼") strip of contrast fabric and repeat Step 2. Press in half along the length, then sew the open long edge to close and top stitch the second long edge. Fold in half to create a loop, then pin to the top of the pot holder, aligning raw edges. 05 Cut two 4.5 x 35cm (17/8 x 13¾") strips from the contrasting fabric at 45° to the selvedge. Join the strips as shown, lining up the short edges and keeping the bias of the fabric in the same direction. Trim to 64cm (25¼"), then repeat Step 2 to make the length into binding. 03
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Open out the binding at one end and fold over to the WS by 1cm (3/8"). Starting with this end and working on the pocket side, pin the first 10cm (4") of binding to the pocket with RS together, aligning raw edges and curving it round as you go. Sew, then continue around the pot holder in the same way. When you reach the start, overlap the folded end and continue for 2cm (¾"). Trim the excess, then fold the binding around the edge and slip stitch in place. Fold the hanging loop up and slip stitch the bottom of the loop to the binding to finish. 06
Oven glove 07 Layer the insulated wadding in between the cotton wadding and main fabric, with fabric on top and RS out. Pin, then top stitch 4cm (15/8") squares as in Step 1. Using the oven glove template on page 128, cut two sides, flipping the template for the second side. Use the stitching template to mark the stitching line on the WS of one quilted piece. 08 Cut a 4 x 11cm (15/8 x 43/8") piece of contrasting fabric. Press in half
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along the length with WS together, open, then press the long edges to the centre with WS together. Press in half along the length again, then sew along the open long edge and top stitch the remaining long edge. Fold in half to create a loop, then pin 4cm (15/8") up from the bottom corner on the RS of one glove piece. 09 Place the two sides of the glove with RS together and pin. Sew along the marked line, leaving the bottom straight edge open. 10 Cut a 31 x 39cm (12¼ x 153/8") rectangle from the lining fabric and back with interfacing, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Using the oven glove template, cut the two sides, flipping the template for the second side. Use the stitching template to mark the stitching line
on the WS of one piece, then sew with RS together. Trim the seam allowance to 0.5cm (¼") and notch. 11 Trim and notch the seam allowance of the outer glove piece as in Step 10. Turn the lining RS out and push the outer glove inside with WS together. Cut a 4.5 x 36cm (17/8 x 141/8") strip of contrasting fabric and repeat Step 2 to make it into binding. Open the binding at one end and fold over to the WS by 1cm (3/8"). Starting with this end, pin the binding to the glove opening with RS together and aligning raw edges. 12 Sew, overlapping the folded end and continuing for 2cm (¾") when you reach the start. Trim the excess, fold the binding around the edge and slip stitch in place. Turn the glove through to the RS to finish.
Ali Burdon Ali is a designer-maker and craft blogger specialising in patchwork and crochet, but her love of good food and enthusiasm for her veggie garden means that gardening projects and recipes often sneak into what she shares online. www.instagram.com/msaliburdon
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Pet Hotel Tired moggy? Check them into Zeena Shah’s five-paw-rated retreat
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HOW TO MAKE… A PET TENT MATERIALS Q Pencil Q Ruler Q Large sheet of paper Q Pinking shears (optional) Q 2.5m (98") medium or heavyweight fabric Q Ten 6cm (23/8") long pieces of elastic, 3.5cm (13/8") wide Q Five 75 x 0.9cm (29 x 3/8") dowel rods Q Handsaw Q Elastic band or string Q Matching sewing thread
Q Hand sewing needle (optional) FOR PRINTING Q Print foam sheet Q Fabric printing ink Q Roller Q Ink tray Q Cutting mat Q Craft knife
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After a hard day chasing sticks or catching mice, pooches and pusses can kick back and relax in this colourful, geometric printed tent. The pattern is made using simple foam block shapes, and the finished den is constructed with the help of dowels and string. Download and print the full-size template from www.molliemakes. com/category/templates/sewingspecial-2 (this includes a 1.5cm (3/8") seam allowance), draw out a triangular shape onto a large sheet of paper and cut out to make a template. Pin to your chosen fabric and cut out five times. 02 Choose one panel for the centre front of the tent and fold 01
in half vertically, then horizontally. Measure out a circle with a diameter of 21.5cm (8½") using the fold line creases as a centre guide. Mark in the seam allowance line, then carefully cut out the middle part of fabric up to this line so you have a hole in the middle. 03 Cut notches in the seam allowance roughly 1.5cm (5/8") apart. Fold these back and press into place to create a smooth circle. Machine or hand sew around the circle using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. 04 Referring to the main image, cut out three simple foam shapes using a craft knife and cutting mat for precision. Pour a small amount of the fabric printing ink onto the tray
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HOW TO MAKE… A PET TENT and roll out until you have a thin, even layer. 05 Dab the foam block into the ink and press firmly onto a scrap piece of fabric to test the print. Lift up the block to reveal the print, then repeat on the main fabric using each shape and colour to create an all-over pattern design. Leave to dry, then fix the ink according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 06 Finish the top and bottom seams of each panel using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance. Press and trim with pinking shears or an overlocker. Place the centre front panel and side panel right sides (RS) together and pin into place. 07 Insert the elastic pieces at the top and bottom of the panel
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by folding each one in half and pinning in line with the raw edges of the panels, creating a loop to slide the dowel through. Sew with a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, then press and finish the seams. Repeat this process to sew all five sides together. Press again to finish. 08 Measure and cut the dowels to the correct size using a handsaw.
Insert into the tent, making sure to catch each dowel in its correct top and bottom elastic loop. Tie the tops of the dowels together with an elastic band or some string, making sure to catch each rod and wrapping securely around it. Then press the dowels downwards to open up all the panels. Now just pop your pet inside.
Zeena Shah Zeena is a printed textile designer and illustrator living in East London. She designs and crafts a collection of hand screen-printed goods for the home, inspired by the everyday things she sees. She also teaches pop-up printing workshops, spreading the printing bug as far as she can. www.zeenashah.com
STORYTIME Up your shelfie game with Leah Farquharson’s mini beanbag bookends in mismatched shapes – ideal for busting that fabric stash
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HOW TO MAKE… FABRIC BOOKENDS MATERIALS Q Fat quarter cuts of five different coordinating fabrics Q Medium-sized bag of poly pellets Q One small bag of stuffing Q Coordinating thread Q Scissors Q Needle Q Sewing machine
We do love a perfectly styled bookshelf here at Mollie HQ – colour-arranged displays and plenty of knick-knacks are our kind of eye candy. This is a great rainy afternoon project, ideal for using up a fat quarter pack or some of your beloved leftover scraps. Use the same type of fabric in different colours or prints for a smooth finish. If you’re mixing different prints, choose ones in the same palette for a coherent look. All seams are stitched using an 0.5cm (¼") allowance.
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Using the templates on page 120, cut four pyramid sides, one pyramid bottom, four tower sides and two tower bottoms. 01
Making the pyramid bookend 02 Sew two side pieces right sides (RS) together, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge. 03 Add two more pyramid side pieces in the same manner, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge. 04 Sew the first pyramid side piece to the last pyramid side piece, RS
together, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge. 05 Open the pyramid and pin to the square bottom piece, RS together. Stitch each side individually, leaving 5cm (2") open on one side. 06 Trim the excess fabric on all five corners. Turn RS out. Press the edges of the opening under. 07 Stuff the top third of the pyramid. Fill the rest with the poly pellets to add weight. 08 Sew the opening closed with the needle and coordinating thread,
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using a whip stitch. Set the complete pyramid bookend to one side. Making the tower bookend 09 Sew two side pieces RS together, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge. Add three more side pieces in the same manner, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge. 10 Sew the first tower side piece to the last tower side piece, RS together, starting and ending 0.5cm (¼") from the edge.
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Open the tower and pin to the square tower bottom piece, RS together. Sew each side individually, until all four sides are complete. Repeat with the other 11
tower square piece, leaving 5cm (2") open on one side. Repeat Steps 6, 7, and 8 to finish, then find a spare spot on your shelf to show off your finished project.
Leah Farquharson Crafter, illustrator and photographer Leah lives in the Miami metropolitan area with her husband and their two boys. She owns Bluebird Chic, selling beautiful handmade camera straps, and is passionate about combining beauty and function. Leah also blogs about her creative life. www.bluebirdchic.com
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Light up Brighten your space with Sally Whiting’s bold, kitschy lampshade upcycling project
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HOW TO MAKE … A LAMPSHADE MATERIALS Q Old lampshade frame Q Sewing needle Q Triangle ruler Q Tailor’s chalk Q Pegs Q Fabric of your choice Q Calico (for the template) Q Cotton thread Q Cotton tape or bias binding Q Tassels and trim Q Textile glue (we used Gutermann creativ HT2) Q Flame retardant spray Q Overlocker or sewing machine
Light, bright interiors are the ideal tonic for dreary days and cold seasons – and what better to combat the dark than a colourful, statement lampshade? This upcycling idea shows you how to makeover discarded lampshade frames – easily sourced at car boot sales, secondhand shops or online. The original cover will need to be stripped off and any glue removed. If the paint is peeling away, then sand it down and re-cover with a fresh coat of enamel paint. To estimate the amount of cotton tape or bias binding needed, measure the circumference of the top and bottom lampshade rings and the length of two struts, and then multiply by 2.5. Bind the stripped and cleaned frame with bias blinding or cotton 01
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tape. Create a figure of eight with the binding tape to get you started. Work all the way around the frame, overlapping a little as you go, keeping the tape taut and tight to the frame until you come back to the start. Overlap and stitch in place. This creates a soft edge to pin to when you're making your template. 02 Wind the tape or bias binding around the top and the bottom frame and then down the two opposite struts. Use a new piece of tape on each strut. Vertical tape can be removed once the template has been created. 03 Use fabric on the bias – this will allow it to stretch and be pulled across the frame tightly. To make a template, cut your piece of calico into a square and fold in half diagonally to form a triangle. Iron to press the line.
Mark the fold line with tailor’s chalk to indicate the bias. 04 Turn the fabric so the ironed line is vertical in front of you. Pin at the top centre and stretch the fabric downwards, keeping the chalk line straight, and pin at the bottom. Stretch the fabric across the top of the frame into the top two corners and pin. Do the same for the bottom two corners, to the left and right sides. Continue to pin the fabric to the frame, adjusting as needed until it’s wrinkle free, taut and smooth all the way around. 05 Feel where the fabric meets the frame and mark the fabric around top, bottom and vertical struts using tailor’s chalk. 06 Undo the pins and take the fabric off the frame. Continue marking the lines along where the pins have been using the tailor’s
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HOW TO MAKE … A LAMPSHADE chalk. Cut to the lines to make the template. 07 Lay your chosen fabric out on the table straight with the grain. Place the triangle on the fabric to find the bias and use the central line on the template to fold it in half. Place the folded template on the bias line, remove the triangle, open out the template and pin in position. 08 Pin the template to the fabric and draw around using tailor's chalk, adding an extra 5cm (2") to the bottom and top of the template to give a bit of extra fabric for pulling on and stretching over the frame, and an extra 1cm (3/8") to the side seams. Once complete, cut the fabric to the chalk lines and repeat this process again to make the second piece, making both the front and back section. At this point, you may want to spray the
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templates with flame retardant spray and hang to dry. 09 Pin both pieces together and tack the side seams together. Overlock down the seam on both sides, just in front of the chalk line. If you don't have an overlocker, machine stitch down the seams and neaten with pinking shears. 10 Grab the lampshade frame and take off the temporary binding from the vertical struts. Now stretch the fabric over the frame and work around, pinning and stretching taut to the frame.
Hand sew on the outside of the frame at the bottom (your stitches will be covered by the trim). At the top, hand sew just inside the frame. Once this is complete, cut off the excess fabric using small sharp scissors, snipping as close to the stitches as possible. 12 Glue the fringing trim in place, using pegs to hold it. Once dry, take the ric rac and glue over the top of the fringing. To finish, use the ric rac on the top, too. 11
Sally Whiting Lampshade maker, crafter and fabric collector Sally loves vintage fabrics and home styling. She makes and sells bespoke handmade shades from her beach hut in sunny Worthing, a space she shares with three other talented makers. www.madebysallywhiting.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPH: JESSE WILD, STYLING: BECKI CLARK
diNe in Combine monochrome shades and geometric shapes to make Lou Orth’s contemporary table set
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HOW TO MAKE… A TABLE SET MATERIALS Q Fat quarters (we used Moda Fabrics’ Thicket by Gingiber, one of each in Swirls White Black (A), Crosshatch Black White (B), Stripes Black White (C), Dashes Black White (D), Triangles Black White (E)) Q Fat quarter of black cotton fabric Q Matching sewing thread Q Wadding, 50 x 38cm (19¾ x 15") Q Rotary cutter Q Cutting mat Q Erasable fabric marker
Give your dining table a sleek update with this Scandi-inspired set. Whether you’re looking to impress dinner guests or make your evening meal more of an occasion, create your own version of this simple patchwork project. We’ve used monochrome fabric for a contemporary feel, but this design is a great way to show off any selection of patterns. Pick five prints and label them A-E, referring to the key in these instructions to keep the pattern accurate. When pressing your blocks, press the seam to the side of the darker fabric to create a neat finish. And when sewing your binding make sure to use matching thread – we used a contrasting shade just to highlight the technique.
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Cut the fabrics into squares. You’ll need: seven 13cm (5¼") squares of Swirls White Black (or your fabric ‘A’), two 13cm (5¼") squares of Crosshatch Black White (or fabric ‘B’), two 13cm (5¼") squares of Stripes Black White (or fabric ‘C’), two 13cm (5¼") squares of Dashes Black White (or fabric ‘D’) and one 13cm (5¼") square of Triangles Black White (or fabric ‘E’). 02 Cut seven 5.5cm (2¼") x width strips of black fabric for binding, then cut the remaining patterned fabric into two 38 x 25cm (15 x 10") rectangles and two 15cm (6") squares for backing. Cut two 38 x 25cm (15 x 10") rectangles and two 15cm (6") squares of wadding. 03 Place one Swirls White Black square and one dark print square 01
with right sides (RS) together then, using the marker, draw a line diagonally from one corner to the other. Repeat with the remaining six Swirls White Black squares. 04 Take one pair of squares and, using a 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance, sew a seam either side of the line. Cut along the line to separate the triangles, then open out, press and trim to 11cm (43/8") square. Repeat with the remaining six pairs. 05 The two blocks using the Triangles Black White fabric will make your coasters, so put these to one side. Using the guide above, arrange the remaining blocks to form the two placemats. 06 Sew the blocks together along one raw edge a pair at a time, with RS together and using a 0.5cm
(¼") seam allowance. Join the three rows of two first, then sew the three rows together in the same way. Repeat for the second placemat, then press well. 07 To assemble the coasters and mats, place your backing fabric RS down, the same sized piece of wadding on top, then the coaster or mat fabric RS up. Pin the layers of fabric and wadding in place. 08 To quilt the coasters, top stitch two straight lines 0.5cm (¼") away from the diagonal seam. To quilt the placemats, top stitch one straight line 0.5cm (¼") away from the diagonal seam. Trim away any excess wadding and backing. 09 To make the binding for the mat, overlap the ends of two strips of black fabric at a 90° angle with
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RS facing. Sew a diagonal seam as shown, then press open. Trim the excess fabric, then add another half strip of black fabric to the sewn length in the same way. Repeat for the second mat. 10 Cut the remaining binding strip in half, then fold all four along the length with RS together and press. Place a short strip of binding along the edge of the coaster with RS
together and raw edges aligned, then pin in place. Sew all the way around using a 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance, then fold the binding over the raw edges. Fold the edge of the binding under and hand stitch in place all around. Repeat for the second coaster. 11 Repeat Step 10 to finish the two placemats, using the two longer strips of binding remaining.
Lou Orth Lou is a self-confessed fabric addict who lives in Oxfordshire with her young family. Sewing is her passion, specifically all things patchwork and quilt related. As well as blogging about her sewing projects, you’ll find pictures of her makes on her Instagram feed @imstudiolou. www.imstudiolou.wordpress.com
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Room for one more
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILLIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA STEELE & BECKI CLARK
Keep seating arrangements casual with The New Craft House’s floor cushion
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HOW TO MAKE… A FLOOR CUSHION MATERIALS Q Cotton fabric, 1.5m (591/8") Q Cotton fabric for piping, 1m (393/8") Q Piping cord, 4.5m (177¼"), 0.5cm (¼") wide Q Matching sewing thread Q Zip, 53cm (207/8") long Q Square cushion pad, 53 x 53cm (207/8 x 207/8"), 15cm (6") deep
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Whether you’re having impromptu drinks at yours, welcoming unexpected guests, or just entertaining friends and family, there’s always a call for extra seating if you’re playing hostess. This comfy floor cushion is so handy to have stashed behind a sofa or in a cupboard under the stairs, and gives an informal cosy charm to any gathering. We couldn’t resist trying out Rifle Paper Co’s fabric range for Cotton and Steel (swoon), and used Tapestry in Rose for a folksy, whimsical feel. It’s beautifully finished with navy blue piping which you’ll make yourself, although you can buy ready-made piping from most haberdasheries if you prefer. Use a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance throughout the project unless otherwise specified.
Cut two 56 x 56cm (221/8 x 221/8") top and bottom pieces, three 56 x 17cm (221/8 x 6¾") side pieces and two 56 x 10cm (221/8 x 4") zip pieces from the main fabric and put to one side. 02 With right sides (RS) together, fold the cut side of the piping fabric over to the selvedge edge to create a triangle shape. Cut along the fold, then cut 5cm (2") wide strips from each side of this cut, so along the bias. You’ll need the combined length of all the strips to come to 4.5m (177¼"). 03 Sew together half of the bias strips as shown, making sure the long edges line up and the bias of the fabric remains in the same direction. Repeat with the other half to make two long strips. 04 Cut a strip of piping cord to the same length as a bias strip. Fold 01
the strip around the piping cord with wrong sides (WS) together and sew along the length. Repeat with the second bias strip. 05 Pin one piece of piping around all four sides of the top cushion piece, RS together and aligning the raw edges. Cut into the seam allowance at the corners to help it curve around, then sew, leaving the ends of the piping cord unsewn. 06 Overlap the two ends of the piping cord and cut so they butt up against each other with no overlap. Trim the bias strip so the ends overlap by approximately 8cm (31/8"), then fold over the end of one piece to the WS by 2cm (¾"). Position this over the top of the raw edge, then pin in place and sew. 07 Repeat Steps 5-6 with the remaining strip of piping and the bottom cushion piece.
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HOW TO MAKE… A FLOOR CUSHION Cut two 35 x 10cm (13¾ x 4") pieces from your main fabric. Fold each piece in half along the length with WS together and press. Open out, fold over all four edges on each piece to the WS by 1cm (3/8"), press, then fold in half again. Top stitch around all four sides 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge – these will be the two handles. 09 With RS up, place a handle centrally onto one of the side pieces. Pin, leaving some slack in the handle so it’s easy to pick up, then secure by sewing a rectangle roughly 4 x 3cm (15/8 x 1¼") with a cross through the centre (as shown) at either end. Repeat this step with the remaining cushion handle and a second side piece. 10 Pin one side piece with a handle and one without RS together. Sew along one short edge. Sew the 08
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other side piece with a handle onto the remaining short edge of the piece without in the same way to make three sides of the cushion. 11 With RS together, pin the edge of the zip along the length of a zip piece. Sew using a zipper foot. 12 Open the zip, then sew the other half of the zip to the remaining zip piece in the same way. 13 Close the zip, then pin and sew the short ends of the zip piece to the short ends of the cushion side
with RS together to form a loop. Open the zip again. 14 Pin the side piece to the cushion top with RS together, aligning the raw edges and encasing the piping as you go. Using the zipper foot, sew around all four sides, keeping close to the piping. Repeat with the bottom cushion piece. 15 Turn the cushion cover RS out through the zip opening and press. Put the cushion pad inside, then close the zip to finish.
The New Craft House Using traditional craft techniques in a modern way, Hannah and Rosie – the duo behind The New Craft House – share tutorials and inspiration on their website. You can also buy patterns and other goodies, including their latest piped cushion kit. www.thenewcrafthouse.com
Lazy Bones Let your four-legged friend snooze the day away in Debbie Humphreys’ cosy pet bed
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HOW TO MAKE… A DOG BED MATERIALS Q Cotton fabric, 1.5 x 1.5m (591/8 x 591/8") (we used Cloud 9 Fabrics Window Dressing in Ocean/Fuchsia) Q Tailor’s chalk Q Wadding, 1.5m (591/8"), 200g (6oz) Q Hollowfibre filling, 500g (17½ oz) Q Upholstery base cloth, 70 x 45cm (275/8 x 18") (we used Corovin) Q Matching bias binding, 2.5m (98½"), 3cm (1¼") wide
Upgrade your pet’s current sleeping arrangements to a comfy bed that they’ll love snuggling up in. It’s a win-win situation as not only do they get to lounge around in luxury, but you can choose a fabric that’ll tie in with the colours of your living room. You might even be able to claim back your spot on the sofa, although we can’t promise anything. Debbie’s designed the bed with a removable cushion so you can easily pop the cover in the washing machine. Measuring 70 x 45 x 28cm (275/8 x 17¾ x 11") when finished, it’ll comfortably fit a medium-sized dog, but if you want to make the bed bigger or smaller, scale the measurements up or down to suit. Use a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance throughout unless stated.
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Making the bed 01 Cut two 70 x 59cm (275/8 x 23¼") side panels and two 45 x 59cm (17¾ x 23¼") side panels from the cotton fabric. As these will be sewn together along the length later on, try to make sure the pattern is aligned on each panel. 02 To make the front panel, take one long side panel, fold in half along the length, then fold in half along the width. Chalk out a rectangular section 10cm (4") down from the corner fold and 15cm (6") across, then mark on a curved edge where the two lines meet, as shown. Cut away the marked section, then open out the fabric. 03 Fold all four fabric panels in half along the length with wrong sides (WS) facing. Press along the crease, then use these folded panels
as templates to cut a piece of wadding for each of the four sides. 04 Open out the fabric panels, then pin each piece of wadding to its corresponding panel along the WS of one long edge. For the front panel, pin the wadding to the WS of the edge with the cut out section. Sew in place, 1.5cm (5/8") in from the raw edge. 05 With right sides (RS) facing, align the short edges of the front panel and one side panel. Pin and sew, then sew the remaining side panel to the other end of the front panel in the same way. Repeat to sew the back panel to the two side panels. 06 Align one long edge of the base fabric along the RS of the base of the back panel fabric. Pin and sew, then repeat to join the two side panels, and lastly the front panel.
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Fold the front panel fabric along the length with RS together. Pin along the curved cut out section, then sew along the curve. Snip into the seam allowance to help create a smooth curve when turning. 08 Fold the excess fabric on all four panels RS out to cover the wadding and create the four sides of the bed. Align all four raw edges with the base of the wadding, pin in place and sew all around. 09 Open out the bias binding and, with RS together, pin one long edge to the raw edge of the base of the bed. Sew, then fold the binding over the raw edges towards the base. Pin and hand stitch in place all around. 10 Fold over the sides so the seam sits on the inside of the bed. This will be covered by the cushion. 07
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Making the cushion 11 Cut two 70cm x 45cm (275/8 x 17¾") panels, two 70cm x 12cm (275/8 x 4¾") side panels and two 45cm x 12cm (17¾ x 4¾") side panels from the cotton fabric. 12 Aligning raw edges and with RS together, pin one panel and one long side panel together along the length. Sew, then attach the remaining long side panel to the other long panel edge in the same
way. Repeat with the two short side panels at either short edge. 13 With RS together, pin and sew the side panels along their short edges. Sew the remaining panel to the remaining raw edges of the side panels in the same way, leaving an opening for stuffing. 14 Turn the cushion cover RS out and stuff. Neatly slip stitch the gap closed, then place the cushion inside the bed to finish.
Debbie Humphreys Inspired by her shivering whippet, Bruno, Debbie decided to give up making wedding dresses and started making dog coats and jumpers instead back in 2010. When she isn’t sewing or knitting, you’ll find her in the Kent countryside walking with her two dogs. www.redhoundfordogs.etsy.com
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Laundry Buddy
Brighten up dull chores with Abby Glassenberg’s flying squirrel peg bag
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HOW TO MAKE… A FLYING SQUIRREL PEG BAG MATERIALS Q 25cm (97/8") square of light grey fleece (you could also use flannel or a felted wool jumper) Q 25cm (97/8") square of sew-in fleece interfacing Q Small scrap of dark grey felt for feet and ears Q Small scrap of pink felt for nose Q Pair of black 8mm safety eyes
Q 20cm (8") loop of cotton cord Q Black embroidery thread, approx 30.5cm (12") Q Toy stuffing Q Co-ordinating all-purpose thread Q Embroidery needle Q Small scissors Q Chalk or airerasable fabric marker
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We love doing the housework as much as the next person (in other words, not at all!) so we’re always up for finding ways to make it more fun. This cuddly flying squirrel has space in his belly for nestling clothes pegs, and will keep you company as you hang out your smalls to dry. He’d make a great gift, or you could turn him into a kids’ plushie toy by simply leaving out the gap in his belly. Fleece is stretchy, so make sure you place the pattern templates on the fabric so that the grain arrows are parallel to the selvedge – this will keep the head and tail from stretching out of shape when you stuff them. When you attach the felt nose, add a dab of glue to help hold it in place when you stitch it down, and attach the safety eyes carefully because once they’re in place they’re tricky to move. The finished squirrel measures 33cm (13") long, from the tip of the ears to the tail – plenty of space for filling up with all your pegs.
First, cut everything out using the templates on page 126. From light grey fleece cut two bodies, one pocket, two heads and two tails (reversing one). From the dark grey felt cut four feet and two ears. From pink felt cut one nose. 02 Transfer all of the markings to the pattern pieces using chalk or an air-erasable fabric marker. Note that a 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance has been added to the pattern pieces that require it. Cut on the solid lines and sew on the dotted. To make a template for the pocket, retrace the bottom half of the body using the pocket line as the top. 03 Now sew the tail. Place the two tail pieces right sides (RS) together. Pin. Stitch around the tail edges, leaving the straight edge open as marked. Clip the curves and turn the tail RS out. Stuff the tail lightly, leaving the inch closest to the opening unstuffed. 04 Next, prepare the face. Poke a small hole for each eye using the tip of a pair of small scissors. 01
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HOW TO MAKE… A FLYING SQUIRREL PEG BAG Insert the safety eyes and slide the washers on the backs of the posts until they’re secure. 05 Whipstitch the nose in place. Backstitch the mouth using black embroidery thread. 06 Flip one ear over so that you have two mirror image ears. Fold each ear along the fold line and press. Place the ears on the face, folded side down, as marked, and tack in place. 07 Fold the cotton cord in half and tie the ends with a slip knot. Lay the cord on the head, loop pointed downward, so that the knotted end hangs off the top of the head. Tack in place. 08 It’s time to sew and stuff the head. Place the two head pieces RS together and pin well. Sew around the entire head, catching the raw edges of the ears in the seam. On the back of the head toward the bottom, pinch one layer of fabric and cut a small slit. Clip the curves and turn the head RS out through the slit. Stuff the head
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firmly, making sure there are no hollow spots or lumps. Slip stitch the opening closed. 09 To prepare the pocket, fold the top straight edge downward 0.5cm (¼") and topstitch across. 10 Place the pocket on the body, lining up the edges, and tack. 11 Prepare to sew the body by first placing the tail on the body piece, as marked, and tacking in place. 12 Next place the feet and hands on the RS of one body piece, as marked, and tack in place. 13 Now place the second body piece and the interfacing piece on top, RS together, and pin well.
Sew around the body, leaving the opening at the neck as marked. 14 Clip the curves and turn the whole body RS out. Slip stitch the opening closed. 15 Place the head on the body, as marked. Pin from the back to hold it in place. Slip stitch the head to the body, going down the marked curve and then across the neck portion of the body. You might want to stitch around twice just to be sure the head is securely stitched in place. That’s it – now fill your squirrel with pegs and hang him near the clothes line ready to help out on washing day.
Abby Glassenberg Abby is a sewing pattern designer, craft book author and blogger. She’s the author of bestselling ebook The Insider’s Guide To Starting An Online Sewing Pattern Business. She lives in Wellesley, Massachusetts, with her husband and three daughters. Catch up with her at www.whileshenaps.com
Put your sewing skills to the test with this jazzy chevron patchwork machine cover by Mandy Pellegrin
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HOW TO MAKE… A SEWING MACHINE COVER MATERIALS Q Cotton fabric (we used Kona cotton fabric in Lemon (yellow), Navy (navy), Sage (teal), Bright Pink (magenta), Ash (grey), Peach (peach)) 25cm (97/8") each colour for the chevron front, plus 2m (78¾") fabric of your choosing for the rest of the shell and the lining
Q Gold pleather or vinyl, 25cm (97/8") Q 23cm (9¼") heavy sew-in interfacing Q Matching sewing thread Q Sewing machine
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You know how much we love any excuse to pretty up an otherwise practical object? When we saw Mandy Pellegrin had created an awesome chevron tote (find the tutorial on her blog), we asked her to create us this exclusive sewing machine cover featuring the same striking chevron stripes. Matching the fabric strips can be a little bit fiddly, so keep your seam allowances consistent throughout. Keeping the seams ending at a consistent length from the edges (we’ve suggested 1.5cm (5/8")) is key to keeping corners sharp, too. Finally, don’t skip pressing the
seams. It may feel tedious, but it’ll be worth it for a super-neat finish. Templates are on page 127. First measure your sewing machine in order to determine your fabric cuts. Measure the height, width and depth to work out the dimensions for the front/back, sides and top. Also note the position of the handle, including its width and thickness, and its distance from each of the machine’s edges. 02 Based on your sewing machine’s measurements, cut your fabric, adding 2.5cm (1") 01
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to each dimension to account for seam allowances. You’ll need the following cuts and counts: Front/back panels: 1 shell, 2 lining, 1 heavy sew-in interfacing. Side panels: 2 shell, 2 lining. For the chevron front shell panel, cut the following pieces: Template 1A: 3 teal, 1 peach, 1 gold. Template 1B: 2 yellow, 1 gold, 2 navy, 2 magenta, 2 grey. Template 2A: 3 teal, 1 peach, 1 gold Template 2B: 2 yellow, 1 gold, 2 navy, 2 magenta, 2 grey. If your machine is wider than 38cm
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(15"), add width accordingly using the templates. If your machine is taller than 30.5cm (12"), add additional strips accordingly. The top panel comprises of four pieces – two side pieces, and two middle pieces to surround the handle opening. Use the measurements from Step 1 to determine the size of each of these pieces, adding 2.5cm (1") for seam allowances. Cut one of each piece from the shell and lining fabric. 03 Right sides (RS) together, sew all the A chevron template pieces and all the B pieces together in the following order: 2A/2B: yellow,
2A/2B: gold, 2A/2B: navy, 1A/1B: teal, 2A /2B: magenta, 2A/2B: grey, 1A/1B: peach, 2A/2B: yellow, 2A/2B: grey, 1A/1B: teal, 1A/1B: gold, 2A/2B: magenta, 2A/2B: peach, 2A /2B: navy, 1A/1B: teal. 04 Sew the strip of As and Bs together, ensuring that the seams from the previous step align along the new seam. Press. 05 Trim the chevron panel to the same dimensions as the front/ back panel. 06 Create the top panel by sewing the two middle pieces to one of the side pieces, RS together. End the seam 1.5cm (5/8") from the edge
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HOW TO MAKE… A SEWING MACHINE COVER that will face the handle of each of the middle pieces. 07 Sew the top panel’s other side piece to the middle pieces, leaving 1.5cm (5/8") unsewn as per the last step. Press the seams and unsewn middle piece, as shown. 08 Sew the side panels to each end of the top panel, leaving 1.5cm (5/8") on each end unsewn. 09 Sew the top of the front panel to the top panel, beginning and ending the seam 1.5cm (5/8") from each end. For added structure, sew in a piece of heavy interfacing along with the front panel. 10 Sew the sides of the front panel to the side panels, starting 1.5cm (5/8") from the top where the seam from the last step began/ended.
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Repeat Steps 9 and 10 with the back panel and press the seams. 12 Repeat Steps 6-11 with the lining fabric. If the handle isn’t perfectly centred, be sure to sew the lining’s top panel pieces together so they’re a mirror image of the shell. 13 Tuck the shell into the lining. RS together, sew together along the bottom edge, and press. 11
Pull the shell through the handle opening in the lining. Tuck the lining into the shell. 15 Top stitch the bottom edge. 16 Align the shell’s handle opening and lining. Top stitch together. Pop the finished piece over the top of your sewing machine – it deserves a fancy new look after all that hard work. 14
Mandy Pellegrin When she’s not sharing DIY projects on her blog, Fabric Paper Glue, Mandy throws craft parties with her business, Craftcourse, and loves fixing up the 1930s home she shares with her husband and their cat in Nashville. www. fabricpaperglue.com; www.craftcoursenashville.com
la patiSserie, mais oUi! PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY & BECKI CLARK
Give yourself a guilt-free sugar rush with Christine Leech’s scrumptious handmade goodies
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HOW TO MAKE‌ FELT PATISSERIE MATERIALS Q Soft toy stuffing Q Compass Q Scallop-edged scissors Q Ruler For the cake slice Q Wool felt in light blue, mint, light brown, pink and white Q Matching embroidery thread for sewing Q Embroidery thread in pink, yellow, blue, brown and white for the sprinkles Q Thin card
For the macaron religieuse Q Wool felt in light brown, bright pink, pink and light pink Q Matching embroidery thread for sewing Q Thin card For the macarons Q Wool felt in lilac, burgundy, mint, cream, yellow and green Q Matching embroidery thread for sewing Q Thin card
For the fruit tart Q Wool felt in white, pink, light brown, purple, lilac, red and mint Q Matching embroidery thread for sewing Q Red seed beads
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Save yourself a trip to the local patisserie and whip up a batch of these decorative bakes instead. Inspired by the art of French pastry making, Christine has designed a selection of felt cakes and petits fours that are much easier to master than their baked counterparts. Arrange yours on a cake stand for a centrepiece with a certain je ne sais quoi, or stitch as a fun birthday gift for a pal. Turn to page 125 for a handy embroidery stitch guide. Cake slice 01 Cut two 10 x 6cm (4 x 23/8") rectangles and one 6 x 10cm (23/8 x 4") triangle from the light brown felt, and one 6 x 6cm (23/8 x 23/8") square and two 6 x 10cm triangles from the pink felt. Cut one 6 x 10cm (23/8 x 4") triangle and one 6 x 6cm (23/8 x 23/8") square from the card. 02 Using backstitch and two strands of embroidery thread, sew 1cm (3/8") stitches in a variety of thread colours onto the two light brown felt rectangles to create the sprinkles. 03 With right sides (RS) together, sew one of the rectangles and the light brown triangle together along one long edge, using blanket stitch and matching embroidery thread.
Sew the remaining rectangle to the second long edge of the triangle in the same way. Sew the short edges of the rectangles that meet at the point of the triangle. 04 Using blanket stitch and matching embroidery thread, sew three sides of the pink square onto the base of the triangle and the two short sides of the rectangles. 05 Place the card triangle on top of the felt triangle inside the cake, and the card square up against the felt square to help it keep its shape. 06 Sew the pink triangle to the top of the cake slice using matching embroidery thread and blanket stitch, leaving a gap for stuffing. Stuff well, making sure it keeps its shape, then sew the gap closed. 07 To make the pink icing, cut two of each icing shape from the pink felt using the templates on page 127. Layer a large, medium, then small piece on top of each other, then sew along the straight edge, pulling the stitches tight as you go to help the shapes fan out. Repeat with the remaining three icing shapes, then sew both pieces to the base of the pink icing square. 08 Cut out the whipped cream shape from white felt using the
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template on page 127. Using white embroidery thread, sew through each tip of the shape’s points, then pull the thread tight to gather. Stuff, then tie the thread ends together to close, pulling the felt into a point. 09 Cut a 4cm (15/8") circle from the white felt using the compass and scallop-edged scissors. Place the whipped cream centrally on top of the circle, position on the cake using the main image for placement, then sew both pieces in place. 10 Cut two 20 x 1cm (77/8 x 1") rectangles from the light blue felt and two from the mint felt. Sew a running stitch along one long edge of one mint rectangle, then gather until the felt is half its original length. Pin to one side of the cake, roughly one third up, then sew in place using matching embroidery thread. Repeat with a light blue rectangle and sew in place above the mint rectangle, using the main image for placement. Repeat on the other side of the cake. Fruit tart 11 To make the strawberry, cut a 6cm (23/8") wide semicircle from the red felt and sew seed beads to one side. Roll into a cone shape with the
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beads on the RS, then sew the two short edges together to join. 12 Sew a running stitch around the top edge of the cone, then pull the thread to gather. Stuff, then tie the thread ends together to close. Cut five small leaf shapes from the green felt as shown, then sew to the top of the strawberry to finish. 13 To make the blueberries, cut a 3cm (1¼") circle from the purple felt and a 4cm (15/8") circle from the lilac felt using a compass. Sew a running stitch around the edges of both circles using white embroidery thread, then pull the threads to gather. Stuff, tie the thread ends together to close, then sew a cross on the top of each berry. 14 To make the mini meringue, cut five meringue shapes from white felt using the template on page 127. Fold each one in half along the length and sew a small stitch along the fold to keep it in place. Position all five pieces together with folds aligned and sew using white thread. 15 For the filling, cut a 16cm (63/8") circle from the brown felt. Sew a running stitch around the edge with matching embroidery thread, then pull the thread to gather. Stuff, then tie the ends together to close.
Cut a 6cm (23/8") circle with wavy edges from the white felt. Sew to the top of the brown felt filling using blanket stitch and matching embroidery thread, then sew the strawberry, blueberries and mini meringue on top. Add a few more felt leaves if necessary. 17 Cut two 10cm (4") circles, one from white felt and one from pink felt, using scallop edged scissors. Place the pink circle on top of the white circle, then place the filling in the centre. Sew small stitches around the brown felt filling, catching the pink and white casing at intervals to pull it into the cake. 16
Macaron religieuse 18 To make the large macaron, cut two 13cm (5¼") circles and two 7cm (2¾") circles from pink felt. Cut two 7cm (2¾") circles from the card. 19 Sew a running stitch around the edge of one large circle. Pull the thread to gather, stuff, then place a piece of card inside the circle, on top of the stuffing. Tie the thread ends together to close, then sew the smaller felt circle onto the macaron base using a small running stitch and matching thread, to cover the gathered edge. Repeat with
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HOW TO MAKE… FELT PATISSERIE the remaining pieces to make the second half of the macaron. 20 To make the small macaron, cut two 7cm (2¾") circles and two 5cm (2") circles from the light brown felt. Cut two 5cm (2") circles from the card. Repeat Step 19 to make the top and bottom halves of the macaron, then cut three 8 x 0.5cm (31/8 x ¼") rectangles of light pink felt, rounding off the ends. 21 Stack the three felt rectangles on top of each other, then sew together along one long edge. Sew a running stitch along the same edge, then pull the thread to gather, creating a circle that will make the filling. Tie the thread ends to secure. 22 Place the filling on the base of one of the small macaron shells and sew. Sew the other small macaron shell on top, then secure the top shell to the bottom with a few stitches on one side, making the filling spill out over the edge. 23 Using backstitch and dark brown embroidery thread, sew a squiggle across the top of the macaron to represent a chocolate garnish. 24 To make the raspberries, cut four 5cm (2") circles from the bright pink felt. Sew a small running stitch
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around the edge of one circle using pink embroidery thread, then pull the threads to gather. Stuff and tie the thread ends together to close. 25 Thread the needle through the middle of the raspberry from bottom to top, then bring it around one side of the raspberry and back up through the bottom. Repeat seven times around the outside, pulling the thread tightly to indent the felt. Sew small stitches around the outside of the raspberry to create segments, then repeat Steps 24-25 with the other three circles. 26 To make the four pieces of piped cream, repeat Step 7 using white felt, cutting four of each shape. 27 To construct the macaron religieuse, sew the four raspberries and four dollops of cream around the edge around the base of one
large macaron shell, alternating them and making sure they hang over the edge as shown. Sew the smaller macaron to the top of the other large macaron shell, then sew the large macaron shells with wrong sides (WS) together to join. Macarons 28 To make the individual macarons, repeat Steps 20-22 using lilac and mint felt. Make the filling in the same way, or you can use a circle of felt cut with scallopedged scissors instead. 29 To make a small flower, cut leaf shapes from the green felt, and a flower shape from yellow felt. Gather the centre of the flower and secure with a small stitch, then sew both the flower and leaves to the top of the macaron.
Christine Leech Christine started making at an early age and is now lucky enough to now make her living from all things crafty: running workshops, writing books and making things to sell in her Etsy shop. She made sure to buy a lot of cakes as ‘research’ for these beautiful patisserie treats. www.sewyeahstudio.etsy.com
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: BECKI CLARK
Pop your cork! Step up your sewing game and try something new with Lou Orth’s mini cork purse
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HOW TO MAKE… A CORK PURSE MATERIALS Q Cork leather, 12.5 x 20.5cm (5 x 81/8") Q Cotton lawn fabric, 12.5 x 20.5cm (5 x 81/8") (we used Dashwood Studios Cotton Candy in Tulip) Q Fabric marker Q Rotary cutter Q Ruler Q Cutting mat Q Binding clips Q One pair of heart-shaped Kam Snaps, 1cm (3/8") diameter Q Snap pliers
Sustainable and vegan-friendly, cork is our new favourite material, and this mini purse is hard-wearing enough to survive even the most junk-filled handbag. Lined in bright floral fabric to add a splash of colour, it could also be used as a business card holder, impressing people with both your skills and your craft smarts at the same time. Lou sourced her cork leather from www.frameyourbag.etsy. com. Once you’ve punched a hole in it with a needle or pin it won’t disappear, so take it slowly when sewing, and use binding clips to hold your fabrics together. Measure and mark the centre point along one short edge on the wrong side (WS) of the cork leather. Mark 4cm (15/8") down on either side from the top edge, then repeat with the cotton lawn. 01
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Line up the ruler along the centre mark and one side mark on the cork, then cut along the line. Repeat with the mark on the other side to create a point, then repeat to create a point on the cotton. 03 With right sides (RS) together, sew the cork and cotton using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance, leaving a 5cm (2") gap along one long edge. Trim the seam allowance at the corners, then turn through to the right side, pushing out the corners using a knitting needle or similar. 04 Top stitch around the outside of the purse, roughly 0.5cm (¼") 02
in from the edge, making sure to neatly close the gap for turning when you sew over it. 05 Fold the bottom edge up to the WS by 6.5cm (25/8") and clip either side to hold in place as shown. Top stitch over the previous line of stitching along either side of the purse to secure. 06 Attach the press snap top to the middle of the point on the flap using the pliers. Position the bottom of the snap centrally on the front of the purse, roughly 3cm (1¼") up, closing the purse to check the placement before you attach it.
Lou Orth Lou is a self-confessed fabric addict from Oxfordshire. Sewing is her passion, and she blogs about her projects and inspiration, as well as posting tutorials. You’ll also find pics of her makes on Instagram @imstudiolou. www.imstudiolou.wordpress.com
! p u l l o R ! Roll up
PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD, MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA; STYLING: HELENA TRACEY, BECKI CLARK, JELLY SHOES AND BAG: WWW.SUNJELLIES.COM
Grab and go with this easy-store mat by The New Craft House – for all your lounging, napping and picnicking needs
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HOW TO MAKE… A ROLL-UP MAT MATERIALS Q Upper fabric, 2m (78¾") Q Backing fabric, 2m (78¾") Q Batting or wadding, 2m (78¾") (make sure it’s thick enough to lie on – you can double up if needs be) Q Matching thread Q Velcro, 30cm (117/8")
We love a multi-purpose make. This comfy padded mat is just the thing to stash in a cupboard, ready to be used as a guest bed when friends stay over. But it also makes a wonderful wonderful picnicking and lounging companion on summer days. The finished mat will be 75 x 150cm (29½ x 59½"), the same size as a standard beach towel. All seams are 1.5cm (5/8"). From the upper fabric cut one 153 x 78cm (60½ x 30¾") rectangle and a circle with a diameter of 21.5cm (8½"). Cut the circle in half. 02 From the wadding cut one 153 x 78cm (60½ x 30¾") rectangle. Keep your off-cuts as you’ll need to use them later. 03 From the backing fabric cut one 183 x 78cm (721/3 x 30 ¾") 01
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rectangle. This piece needs to be longer because you’ll be creating a pillow with it at one end. Place to one side. 04 From the off-cuts of the upper fabric, cut one 11 x 45cm (43/8 x 17¾") piece. From the wadding off-cut, cut one 4 x 43cm (15/8 x 17") piece. These will become the handle. 05 Fold and press a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance along each edge of the handle fabric. 06 Pin the wadding along one side of the wrong side (WS) of the handle fabric. Leave a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance along the edge. 07 Fold over the other half of the handle and pin in place, tucking the seam allowances in the whole way around. Top stitch along the edge. 08 Cut two 11 x 33cm (43/8 x 13") pieces of the upper fabric. These will be the velcro straps.
Cut two 4 x 30cm (15/8 x 117/8") pieces of wadding. 10 As with the handle, press a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance around each piece of strap fabric. Place the wadding in the middle, leaving a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, and fold over the strap fabric. 11 Making sure that all of the seam allowances are tucked in, top stitch around each of the straps the whole way around. 12 Cut two 10cm (4") pieces of velcro and pin the hook side of the velcro to the underside of each strap. Stitch in place around the edge. Repeat for the other strap. 13 Position the un-velcroed end of the strap 15cm (6") in from the end of the right side (RS) of your backing fabric and 15cm (6") from each side, so that the velcroed end hangs over what will be the edge of the mat. Stitch in place. You will 09
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sew on the other side of velcro by hand, once the mat is all sewn up. 14 Position the two ends of the handle between these two straps and stitch in place. 15 Now it’s time to sew up the whole mat. Lay the upper fabric and the backing fabric RS together and stitch along the 78cm (30¾") end without the straps. 16 Now attach the two pillow semicircle sides. Lay them RS down on top of the backing fabric, one on each side, just beyond the seam you’ve just sewn. Pin the curved side of the pillow semicircles in here and stitch. Use lots of pins and ease the fabric around the curve to make it easier. Repeat for the other side. 17 Fold over the mat pieces RS together with the pillow at one end, and lay the wadding on top. Sew around the two long edges
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using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, leaving the bottom short end unstitched for turning. Trim wadding from the seam allowance and turn RS out. 18 Now stuff the pillow. Fill with wadding until you’re satisfied, then pin along the seam at the edge of the pillow. Seal the pillow by sewing a straight stitch along this seam, through all layers.
Tuck in the seam allowance on the remaining open end. Pin and topstitch closed. 20 Roll up the mat and see where the velcro straps end (this will differ depending on how thick your wadding is). Pin the unsewn velcro side in position and carefully hand sew it in place, only sewing through the backing fabric. And you’re all done! 19
The New Craft House Rosie and Hannah are the duo behind award-winning blog The New Craft House. Friends since childhood, the pair learned to knit together on the school bus. They both love using traditional crafts in more modern projects and have launched their own range of craft kits. www.thenewcrafthouse.com
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beauty edit
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS; STYLING: BECKI CLARK
Show your make-up essentials some love with Ali Burdon’s cosmetic bags
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HOW TO MAKE… COSMETIC BAGS MATERIALS For the large bag Q 35 x 45cm (13¾ x 17¾") outer fabric (we used Art Gallery Fabrics Observer in Overshot Gold) Q 40 x 45cm (15¾ x 17¾") lining fabric (we used Art Gallery Fabrics Observer in Mesh With Me Worn) Q 35 x 45cm (13¾ x 17¾") iron-on medium weight interfacing Q 35 x 45cm (13¾ x 17¾") iron-on fleece Q 35cm (13¾") zip Q 7mm (¼") double loop split ring
For the small bag Q 25 x 31.5cm (97/8 x 123/8") outer fabric (we used Art Gallery Fabrics Observer in Overshot Haze) Q 30 x 31.5cm (117/8 x 123/8") lining fabric (we used Art Gallery Fabrics Observer in Triangle Tokens Ink Metallic) Q 25 x 31.5cm (97/8 x 123/8") iron-on medium weight interfacing Q 25 x 31.5cm (97/8 x 123/8") iron-on fleece Q 25cm (97/8") zip Q 7mm (¼") double loop split ring
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Never without your favourite red lipstick or flicky black eyeliner pen? Then keep them on-hand by storing them in these dressing table and handbag-worthy make-up bags by Ali Burdon. The smaller version is handy for storing brushes, while the larger one is great for weekends away. Made in a similar style, both are a fairly straightforward sew, and all seams are 0.5cm (¼") unless noted. Making the large bag 01 Cut the outer fabric, lining, interfacing and fleece each into two 35 x 22.5cm (13¾ x 87/8") pieces. 02 Apply the iron-on fleece to the wrong side (WS) of the outer fabric and the iron-on interfacing to the reverse of the lining, following the manufacturer’s instructions. 03 Cut two 6 x 2.5cm (23/8 x 1") zip tabs from the remaining lining fabric. Fold one piece in half along
the width with WS together and mark the centre. Open out the fabric out and measure and mark 2cm (¾") either side. Fold in the short edges to the marked lines, and press in place. Repeat with the second piece to make the other tab. 04 Place the end of the zip on top of a folded edge, aligning the raw edges. Fold the other side of the zip tab over the end of the zip to enclose it. Pin and sew in place, close to the fold and avoiding the end of the zip. Repeat at the other end of the zip with the second tab. 05 Place the zip along the length of an outer fabric piece with right sides (RS) together and edges aligned. Place a piece of lining fabric on top, RS together and raw edges aligned. Pin the layers and sew together 0.5cm (¼") down from the edge using a zipper foot. 06 Repeat Step 5, this time aligning the unsewn edge of the zip with the
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HOW TO MAKE… COSMETIC BAGS remaining outer fabric piece. Open out, press, then top stitch a line either side of the length of the zip using a zipper foot. 07 Cut a 5 x 6cm (2 x 23/8") side tag. Fold in half along the length with WS together, unfold, then fold in the long edges to the centre line. Fold in half along the length again, then sew along the long edges, 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge. Fold in half along the length and pin to the RS edge of a piece of outer fabric, 2.5cm (1") down from the zip, with raw edges away from the fabric. 08 Open the zip, then pin the outer fabrics RS together and the lining fabrics RS together. Ensure the zip tabs are folded between the outer pieces. Sew around all four edges, leaving a 10cm (4") gap in the bottom edge of the lining. 09 Open out a corner of the outer fabric, aligning the side and bottom seam. Find the point where you
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can mark a 8.5cm (33/8") line across the corner, perpendicular to the seam, then sew in place. Trim off the excess fabric, then repeat the step with the other three corners. 10 Turn the bag RS out through the hole along the bottom of the lining, then neatly stitch the gap closed. 11 Cut a piece of zip pull fabric measuring 10 x 3.5cm (4 x 13/8"). Fold one short edge to the WS by 0.5cm (¼"), then fold in half along the length with RS together. Sew the raw edges closed. 12 Turn the zip pull through to the RS, then hand stitch the short
folded edge closed. Thread the split ring onto the end of the zip, then thread the zip pull fabric through. Twist at the centre point, then fold and sew across the pull to secure. Making the small bag 13 Using the template on page 128, cut two pieces each from the outer fabric, lining fabric, iron-on interfacing and iron-on fleece. 14 Repeat Steps 2-9, this time marking a 6cm (23/8") line in Step 9. 15 Repeat Steps 10-12 to finish, cutting your zip pull fabric to 8 x 3cm (31/8 x 1¼") in Step 11.
Ali Burdon Ali is a designer-maker and craft blogger specialising in patchwork, sewing, embroidery and crochet. She loves being part of a creative online crafty community and is also keen on gardening and baking. www.instagram.com/msaliburdon
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY & BECKI CLARK, MODEL: ALEXANDRA FIA
Pom Pom Muff Perk up last year’s winter coat with Chloe Hardisty’s clever jumper revamp
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HOW TO MAKE… A POM POM MUFF MATERIALS Q Sweatshirt or jumper with a close knit stitch Q Lining fabric in contrasting colour, 30 x 40cm (117/8 x 15¾") Q Thirty felt balls, 1.5cm (5/8") diameter Q Wadding, 135g/4oz, 60 x 80cm (235/8 x 31½") Q Cord, 2m (78 7/8"), 0.5cm (¼") wide Q T hin elastic, 1m (39 3/8") Q Matching tapestry wool Q Matching sewing thread
This cosy project is a great way to make the most of an old pullover you know you’ll never wear again, but can’t quite bear to part with. Or use it to salvage that gorgeous wool jumper that somehow found its way into the washing machine and is now four sizes too small. If you don’t have any lining fabric to hand, use an old T-shirt instead. And if you’re feeling extra crafty, you could even make your own mini pom poms from scraps of brightly coloured yarn. Cut out a 30 x 40cm (117/8 x 15¾") piece from the jumper and pin to the lining fabric with right sides (RS) together. Sew around three of the edges, leaving one of the short ends open. 02 Clip the corners, then turn RS out. Thread half of the elastic along each short edge of the rectangle, taking it out through each corner.
Arrange the felt balls around the centre section of the rectangle and pin – this will form the front of the muff. The top and bottom will be folded round to form the back, so won’t be on display. 04 Attach each of the felt balls with three or four stitches using matching thread, working from the wrong side (WS) of the fabric so the loose threads are hidden. 05 Cut the wadding in half to create two 30 x 40cm (117/8 x 15¾") rectangles. With the rectangles on top of each other, place inside, making sure the wadding fills the 03
corners. Fold in the raw edges, pin together and sew closed. 06 With RS together, pin the two short edges along the seam. Pull the lengths of elastic tight, tying the ends in a knot and cutting off any loose elastic. Make sure it’s not too tight, as this is the opening you’ll put your hands through. 07 Using the tapestry wool, sew the short edges together. Thread the cord through the muff and tie the ends together, adjusting the length to how long you’d like the strap to be. You can either wear the knot at the top, or hide it in the centre.
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Chloe Hardisty Chloe lives in Loughborough with her husband Chris and two little boys. She has a passion for anything fabric and needlerelated, and spends her evenings dreaming up new projects to share on her blog, Cotton Clara, and Instagram @cotton_clara. www.cottonclara.com
Style flashback Add some 70s-inspired geometry to your wall with Anna Alicia’s bold felt hanging
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HOW TO MAKE… A FELT WALL HANGING MATERIALS Q Sheet of extra thick (3mm) off-white felt Q Yellow standard (1mm thick) felt Q Red standard (1mm thick) felt Q Yellow and off-white cotton thread Q Off-white 3mm thick cord, 75cm (29½") long Q Debbie Bliss Eco Baby Prints yarn in Seaside, or similar Q Coloured tailor’s chalk or a pencil Q Rotary cutter
Q Cutting mat Q Safety pin Q Dowel or thick wire at least 30cm (117/8") long Q Tape (sticky tape or masking tape will do) Q Piece of card approximately 13cm (5¼") long and at least 5cm (2") wide
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This is a great way of adding extra personality, warmth and texture to your home. The 70s-style design can be put together in a few hours, and can also be scaled up or down to fit a big empty wall or tiny space. For a twist on the original, you could use vintage fabric instead of felt for the backing, or up the 70s vibe by going crazy with the tassels. Cut the sheet of thick off-white felt to 25 x 31cm (97/8 x 12¼"). Following the diagram (above), measure and draw out first the grid and then the triangles on the back of the felt using coloured tailor’s chalk or pencil. 01
Place the felt on a cutting board and cut out the triangles using either a rotary cutter or craft knife. Set aside. 03 Cut a strip of rust-red felt 6 x 25.5cm (23/8 x 101/8") and two strips of yellow felt 9 x 25.5cm (71/8 x 101/8"). Align the strips with long sides together to form one sheet with the rust-red strip in the middle, and pin across the joins to hold in place. 04 Sew along the joins between the strips using a wide zigzag stitch and yellow thread, removing the pins as you go. 05 Lay the off-white felt sheet right side (RS) down (with the bigger triangles pointing towards you) 02
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and place the sewn sheet on top, approximately 0.5cm (¼") in from the bottom and side edges. Fold the top edge of the off-white sheet over by about 3cm (1¼") and pin. Sew the folded edge 2.5cm (1") from the top using a straight stitch and off-white thread. 06 Tape one end of the length of cord to one end of the dowel/wire, and use the dowel/wire to push the cord through the slot made by the folded top edge. Remove the dowel/wire and tie the ends of the cord in a double knot. Pull the cord so that the knot is hidden inside the folded top edge. 07 Now to add the tassels. Wind the yarn around the card about
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10 times, then snip with scissors at one end so you have a bunch of strands with a loop at one end. Make two of these. 08 Make a small hole with the rotary cutter or knife about 8mm (3/8") in from each of the bottom two corners of the off-white felt. Pin a safety pin through the loop end
oyone set of the yarn strands and use this to pull the loop through the hole in one corner, front to back. Remove the safety pin, tuck the ends of the strands through their loop and pull to tighten. Repeat for the other tassel, then trim the tassels so the bottom edges are even to finish.
Anna Johnson Anna is the designer-maker behind eco-ethical jewellery and homeware label A Alicia. She’s based in East London with her artist husband, their bonny toddler and a multitude of books and houseplants. She’s always looking for new avenues to explore within her craft practice. www.aalicia.bigcartel.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILLIP SOWELS, MODEL: LEANNE MEGSON, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY & BECKI CLARK
I believe in unicorns Make someone the coolest kid in school with H & Sammy’s magical unicorn backpack
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HOW TO MAKE… A UNICORN BACKPACK MATERIALS Q Cotton fabric, 1m (393/8") Q Contrasting cotton fabric, 25cm (97/8") Q Matching polyester thread Q Silver thread Q Fusible fleece, 25cm (97/8") Q Fusible interfacing, 25cm (97/8") Q Grey scrap felt Q White and sparkly pink scrap fabric Q Soft toy filling Q Fabric glue
Spread the unicorn love and magic up this bag for a child, or your inner child – after all, who can resist a little bit of sparkle? A must for little girls and lovers of all things kitsch, this make is as practical as it is fun. Just scoop up your belongings and pop them inside to cheer up your day. The drawstring structure means it’s easy to make, but you can tack the pieces together first if you want to be sure of a neat finish. To make it more hardwearing, just add fusible interfacing to the base and body fabric before cutting out. Cut a 25 x 15cm (97/8 x 6") base, 80 x 40cm (31½ x 15¾") body and a 80 x 12cm (31½ x 4¾") pocket strip from the main fabric piece. 01
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Fold a narrow hem along the length of the pocket strip and sew. Pin to the body fabric with both right sides (RS) facing up, and raw edges together along the length. 03 Mark the centre with a pin, then measure 8cm (31/8") either side of the centre pin and mark each point with double pins. Sew along this point from the raw edge to the hem of the pocket strip. 04 Mark the centre of the top raw edge of the body piece, and snip in 4cm (15/8"). Fold the edges towards the wrong side (WS) and zigzag stitch over both sides. 05 Cut two 60 x 10cm (235/8 x 4") pieces from the main fabric for the straps. Fold each one in half lengthways with RS together and sew along the raw edge. Turn RS 02
out, press so the seam lies at the back of the strap, and top stitch along the long edges. 06 Pin both straps to the length of the base, 3cm (1¼") in from either short edge. Sew in place. 07 Pin the short edges of the body RS together and sew along the raw edge – the straps should sit either side of the seam. Pin the base to the bottom of the body with RS together and sew. 08 Fold the top edge of the body to the WS to create a channel for the drawstring and sew in place. Cut an 80 x 4cm (31½ x 15/8") piece from the main fabric and fold it in half with RS together. Sew along the length and turn RS out. 09 Cut 20cm (77/8") from the 80cm (31½") length to use as a handle.
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To create the drawstring, turn the ends in on the longer piece and sew closed. Thread it through the channel in the top of the bag. 10 Use the templates on page 125 to cut four ear pieces and two flap pieces from the contrasting fabric. Cut one flap piece from the fleece and fuse to the WS of one fabric flap. With RS together sew around the edge of the flaps, leaving the straight edge open. Turn RS out. Repeat for the ears with no fleece. 11 Thread the machine with the silver thread and top stitch around the edge of the flap and up through the centre to add detail. 12 Fuse the interfacing to the WS of the sparkly pink fabric then cut a horn piece using the template. Fold in half from the point with RS
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together and sew along the straight edge. Turn RS out and stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed with silver thread. Starting at the base, wrap silver thread around the horn to create definition, then secure at the top. Attach the horn to the flap using ladder stitch. 13 Pin the ends of the handle either side of the straps with raw edges at the top of the bag. Fold over the
straight edge of the flap to the WS and pin on top the straps. Sew together along the existing hem. 14 Pin the ears to the inside front of the bag opening and sew in place along the existing hem. Cut two eye and nose pieces from felt and a star from white fabric using the templates. Glue the eyes and nose pieces in place, then sew the star in the centre using silver thread.
Live it. Love it. Make it. H & Sammy met at art college and have been friends ever since. H spends her days crafting at a museum while Sammy runs her online fabric shop, Sew Crafty Online www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk, but they collaborate together on their inspiring creative blog, ‘Live it. Love it. Make it’.
www.liveitloveitmakeit.com
HOP, STITCH & YARN Get multi-crafting with Regina Groleau’s mini bunny plush, complete with Sara Huntingdon’s cute crochet jacket
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HOW TO MAKE… A BUNNY PLUSHIE MATERIALS Q Woven wool fabric, approx. 25 x 25cm (97/8 x 97/8") Q Small scrap of cotton fabric Q Sewing needle or sewing machine Q Doll needle, 12.5cm (5") Q Matching sewing thread Q Extra strong thread such as Guetermann extra strong Q Black embroidery thread Q Wool stuffing Q Forceps (optional) Q Glass head pins
Calling all multi-crafters: here’s a chance to get working your needle, thread, hook and yarn all at once. This distinguished mini plush bunny comes with his very own crocheted jacket – however, if you’re a dedicated sewist-only, you could make your own alternative outfit, or simply tie a snazzy bow around his neck. If you’ve got a whole gang of bunny lovers to make gifts for then you could customise each rabbit for its prospective owner. Try to use woven wool fabric with no right/ wrong side for easier assembling. Transfer the template on page 124 onto the fabric. Cut out the pattern pieces (no seam allowance is necessary for this pattern). If you’re using a fabric with a right/
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wrong side, remember to reverse one of the head pieces. 02 Sew up the darts (about 4mm from the edge) on the two head pieces to create cupped shapes. The two pieces should mirror each other: face one piece to the left, and one piece to the right before sewing the darts. 03 Place your two head pieces right sides (RS) together and pin. Sew from point A to point B, following the arrow. Take extra care to line up the top darts: pin on either side of the dart, right next to the centre seam to stop them shifting. 04 Place the two body pieces together and pin. Sew from point C to point D. Fold one of the arms in half along the dotted line, pin and sew from point E to point F. Place one outer ear (wool) on one
inner ear (cotton) (RS together if applicable), pin and sew from point G to point H. Repeat for the other arm and ear. 05 Clip the curves using sharp scissors, taking care not to cut through the stitch line. Use the forceps to turn the sewn pieces RS out: grab the open edge at the seam with the forceps and flip the edges over. Slowly push the fabric through to the RS. If it binds up, pull it back out a bit and use your forceps to gently open the space you’re pulling through. 06 Gently push small pieces of stuffing into the furthest part of each piece, slowly filling in the shape. You may find it easier to use forceps. Use the curve of your palm to stuff against. Add extra stuffing to fill out cheeks or tummies and
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keep an eye on the seams to make sure they’re not strained. 07 Close up each open seam using a ladder stitch in extra strong thread. Just before you close up each piece, stuff in just a little bit more wool to make it extra stable. Beginning on one side of the opening, sew small parallel stitches as shown in the photo. Pull your thread tight and the seam will ‘zip’ closed almost invisibly. 08 Join the arms to the body using a simple string joint. Using the doll needle and extra strong thread, take the needle from inside R arm, outside R arm, inside R arm, through the body, inside L arm, outside L arm, inside L arm, through the body, pulling the thread tight as you go. Repeat this process three times. If you’re planning to give this
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bunny to children, repeat this whole step again with a separate piece of thread to give added security. To save your hands, you can use some forceps or tweezers to push your needle through and out again. 09 Attach the head to the body using ladder stitch and extra strong thread. Pull the thread tight to snug the head against the body. 10 Tie a half hitch knot in one end of the embroidery thread and insert the needle into the fabric, tugging until the knot disappears. Add a classic bunny nose with a single fly stitch (see page 125). 11 Mark the placement of the eyes with two glass-head pins, referring to the main image as a guide. Try them in several different positions until you have a face you’re happy with. Embroider them using small
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parallel lines, taking care to create a smooth, rounded shape. 12 Fold the ear in half lengthwise and sew the bottom edge shut using ladder stitch and extra strong thread. Ladder stitch the bottom of the ear to the head, using a straight pin to anchor it in place. Repeat for the other ear. 13 Sew a simple running stitch around the edge of the tail piece using extra strong thread. Pull it tight to gather the edge and create a ball shape. Knot off to secure the running stitch, then attach the tail to the backside of the body using ladder stitch. Use a straight pin to anchor the tail in position while you sew. Double check all the joints are fully secure, and your bunny is ready to play.
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Regina Groleau Regina is a self-taught fibre artist specialising in soft sculpture and hand weaving. Strongly inspired by folk tales, mythology and lost words, she favours natural materials in a simplified colour palette and aims to evoke a sense of calm, quiet contentment through her pieces. Find more of her work at www.ohalbatross. com and www.ohalbatross.etsy.com.
HOW TO MAKE… A CROCHET JACKET MATERIALS Q Drops Alpaca, 100% alpaca, 50g/167m per ball, approx. ½ ball in Lime (7300), or similar 4 ply yarn Q 2.5mm (UK 12, US C/2) crochet hook Q Stitch marker Q Tapestry needle TENSION 11 sts and 20 rows to measure 5cm (2") ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) ch chain ch-sp chain space ss slip stitch dc double crochet RS right side WS wrong side
The fronts and back of the rabbit’s jacket are worked as one piece in rows from the top down and the sleeves are worked in the round. There’s no sewing or seaming required. The finished jacket is 5cm (2") long from the neck downwards, approximately 10cm (4") around the neck, 16cm (63/8") around the bottom, and the sleeves are 1.5cm (5/8") along the underarm. The length can be varied by increasing or decreasing the number of rows after the arm shaping. Foundation ch25 Row 1 (WS) dc in the second ch from the hook, 1dc in each st along, turn [24 sts] Row 2 (increase row) ch1 (does not count as st here and throughout), *1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * 7 more times, turn [32 sts]
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Row 3 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn [32 sts] Row 4 (increase row) ch1, *1dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, turn [36 sts] Row 5 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn [36 sts] Armholes Row 6 (RS) ch1, 1dc in each of next 5 sts, ch5, miss 5 dc, 1dc in each of next 16 sts, ch5, miss 5 dc, 1dc in each of last 5 sts, turn [26 dc and 2 x 5ch-sps] Row 7 ch1, 1dc in each st along and working 1dc in each of the ch of the 5ch-sp, turn [36sts] Row 8 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn. Repeat Row 8 until the jacket measures 5cm (2") from neck edge. Break yarn and fasten off. Sleeves With RS facing and neck pointing
downwards, join yarn to first dc on Row 5 that you missed on Row 6, ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each of missed 5 dc, 1dc into corner, pick up and work 1dc into the unused back loops of each of the 5 ch from Row 6, 1dc into corner [12 dc] Now place stitch marker in the first st and work dc in each st in the round (in a spiral formation and not joining at the end of each round, moving stitch marker to the first st of each new round) until the sleeve measures 1.5cm (5/8"), ss to first st of last round to join. Break yarn and fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve. Edging With RS facing, rejoin yarn to top left edge of jacket and work dc as follows: 13 dc evenly down each front edge and 36 dc into the bottom of the jacket [62 dc] Break yarn, fasten off and darn in all ends. Block and press.
Baby steps Make your own adorable leather lace-up baby booties to treasure for years – Karolina Radomska-Nishii shows us how
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HOW TO MAKE… LEATHER BABY BOOTS MATERIALS Q Soft natural leather, approx. 50 x 30cm (19¾ x 117/8") Q Rubber sheet, 1-2mm thick, 14 x 10cm (5½ x 4") Q Two needles Q Thick thread (0.8mm) Q Scissors Q Hammer Q Measuring tape Q Pencil Q Leather punch (for punching holes 1 and 3mm diameter) Q Pair of shoelaces
It’s surprisingly easy to play shoemaker and create a gorgeous pair of leather baby booties. Shoes this sweet can be kept and treasured for years as a family heirloom, and they make wonderful gifts for new parents. Plus they’re practical too, as they’re easy to slip on and off. We used a hole punch, as piercing leather with a needle can look scruffy. Pull the thread firmly at each stitch to keep things even. Cut out all the different shoe part templates on page 126. Trace two vampers, two heel parts and two shoe soles onto the leather. Trace two soles (labelled ‘Rubber’) 01
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onto the rubber. Cut out all the parts. 02 Punch six 3mm holes on the upper part of the heel (three holes on each side). Keep the holes close to the edge (approximately 4mm). These will be used for threading shoelaces later. 03 Punch 1mm holes along the grey lines marked on the templates. Be sure to keep the same distance between the holes. Remember that the number of holes on the leather shoe sole (outside line) must be equal to the number of holes on the heel and vamper counted together. Count only the holes in the line that will be stitched to the sole – do not
count the holes on the sides of the vamper and heel. 04 Punch 1mm holes on the rubber soles as well. The number of holes and their position must exactly match those on the inside line of the leather shoe sole. 05 Cut a length of thread to 120cm (47"). Thread a needle on each end (there’s no need to tie a knot). Stitch the rubber sole to the leather sole using saddle stitch. 06 Prepare another 30cm (117/8") length of thread. Place the heel on the vamper and pass one needle up from the bottom through the vamper and then the heel, to the top side, through the first two corresponding holes on the top.
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Then sew the little square and continue sewing down. 07 Prepare a third 140cm (1½yrd) length of thread. Sew the heel and vamper to the leather shoe sole. Locate the starting point and place the shoe sole on top of the heel, then sew in the direction where the vamper is already stitched to the heel. Remember to tighten each stitch as you go. 08 Continue sewing around the toe of the shoe until you reach the other side where the vamper needs to be stitched to the heel. Stop sewing four to five holes from where the vamper will be stitched to the heel. Take the needles off and leave the threads dangling.
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Prepare a 30cm (117/8") length of thread. Sew the vamper to the heel in the same way as earlier. 09 Thread the needles back onto the dangling ends of thread you left and continue sewing the shoe sole to the heel until you arrive back where you started. To finish,
pass both needles to the inside of the shoe and tie off the thread using an overhand knot. Cut the thread as close as you can to the inside edge. 10 Push the shoelace through the holes on the heel and tie. Repeat these steps to sew the other shoe.
Karolina Radomska-Nishii By day, Karolina reads and translates children’s books while drinking copious amounts of tea (both green and black). By night, she co-runs Polish handmade brand First Baby Shoes, creating baby shoe-making kits as well as ready-to-wear baby moccasins and soft-sole shoes. www.firstbabyshoes.com
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The Mollie Posse
PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE WILD, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY & BECKI CLARK
Create your own troupe of mini-me dolls with Louise Kelly’s customisable pattern
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HOW TO MAKE… CUSTOMISABLE DOLLS MATERIALS Q Skin-toned felt, two 30.5cm (12") squares Q Different coloured scrap felt for hair, bags, boots, gilet, flowers and eyes Q Small pieces of patterned fabric (ours is by Cotton and Steel, Lecien and Moda) Q Stuffing, around 15g per doll Q DK weight yarn, 5-6m (5-6yrd) Q Fine sewing needle, size 10 or 12
Q 3.5mm knitting needles Q Doll needle Q Co-ordinating embroidery thread Q Fine elastic Q Buttons and snap fasteners Q Erasable fabric marker pens Q Sewline glue pen Q Hemostats for stuffing Q Small pieces of ric rac or lace Q Blusher or artist’s pastel for the cheeks
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Hey, doll! Sew up these characters to look like you, your pals, or a little daughter or niece by switching up their hair colours, outfits and lipstick shades. You could even make one to match each member of your girl gang – they’re sure to become future heirlooms. When sewing tiny seams, a small backstitch (unless instructed otherwise) just a few millimetres in from the edge works best. Use small stitches close together – the more often your needle and thread pass through your fabric, the neater your curved seams will be. Use a fine needle and one strand of embroidery floss.
An erasable fabric marker and Sewline glue pen are also helpful for sewing tiny limbs, faces and clothes. Use the glue pen in place of pins, and the marker to sketch faces and mark hems and seams. It’s important to use good quality felt here, too. Try sourcing it from www.gilliangladrag.co.uk, www.coolcrafting.co.uk or www. billowfabrics.co.uk. Making the doll body 01 Cut out all body pattern pieces from the templates on page 130. Sew the arm pieces right sides (RS) together a few mm in from the edge, leaving a 1cm (½") gap. Do
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HOW TO MAKE… CUSTOMISABLE DOLLS ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) k knit p purl
the same for the legs but leave the tops unsewn. Turn RS out. 02 Place two back body pieces RS together and sew using a 1cm (¼") seam. Leave a 2cm (¾") gap. 03 Attach the legs to the front body piece using a tacking stitch. 04 Pin back and front body RS together with the legs sandwiched in the middle folded down (see image for pin placement). Sew all around and turn RS out by pulling the legs through the turning gap. Push out all seams. 05 Position the hair on the head and sew around the hairline using coordinating thread. Lightly sketch the facial features with a fabric pen. 06 Cut small black felt ovals for the eyes and attach to the face using
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blanket stitches. Sew a few straight stitches for the lashes and a couple for the nose. Make a tiny pout by satin stitching pink floss. 07 Place face and back head RS together and sew around, leaving a gap at the chin. Use a larger seam allowance when sewing the topknot and ponytail, then snip into it for a nice curve. Turn RS out. 08 Stuff legs, arms and body until fairly stiff. Fill the topknot and ponytail with small pieces of stuffing, then fill the rest of the head. Sew up gaps using a ladder stitch. Shorten the gap on the chin using a ladder stitch on each side, checking the neck fits as you go. 09 Place the head on the neck and secure using ladder stitch.
Attach the arms using a doll needle. Sew back and forth through arm, shoulders, arm. Repeat until secure. 10
Making the accessories 11 Cut out the bodice pieces. Fold in the hems and snip into the seam allowance at the neckline. Sew all these down, place RS together and secure at the shoulders. 12 Fold and stitch a small hem at the sleeves. Place RS together and sew a few stitches from the armhole down to the waist. 13 Cut a 25.5 x 7.7cm (101/8 x 3") piece of fabric for the skirt and fold a 1cm (¼") hem on either side. Place RS together with the bodice and begin sewing, adding pleats as you
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go by making small folds every two or three stitches. Finish your dress by sewing all the hems and adding two small snap fasteners at the back of the bodice. 14 Embroider your doll’s name on one pant piece using backstitch. Place the two pant pieces RS together and stitch the seams. Make one or two stitches at the gusset and then sew each side seam. Make small diagonal snips to turn in a hem at the leg holes, then sew around each. 15 Turn down a 1cm (¼") seam at the waistline. Place some fine elastic inside and sew around, being careful not to stitch through the elastic. Try the pants on the doll, pull the elastic to gather the
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waistline and tie off. Remove from doll and finish sewing around. 16 To make some tasselled boots, place two boot pieces RS together and sew around, leaving approximately 1cm (¼") unsewn at the top. Turn RS out and snip to make the tassels. Trim each one diagonally and turn down. 17 To make the gilet, place the front and back pieces RS together and sew at the shoulders and down each side. Sew all around the edges and add some ric rac or lace for decoration. Turn down the collar. 18 To make a bag, place two bag pieces RS together and sew around the sides and bottom. Add a flap to the back and secure with a few stitches. Fold the bag strap in half
and sew along the length. Carefully trim either side of the stitching to make a thin but sturdy strap, then attach to bag. 19 Cut out the rose template in felt then roll up and secure with stitches underneath. Layer the poppy petals and attach the centre using a few French knots. Add elastic and leaves to the back to make mini hair bobbles. 20 To knit a scarf, use 3.5mm needles and some DK yarn. Cast on 5 sts, then k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 every row to create a moss stitch. Repeat until desired length then cast off. 21 Add colour to the dolls’s cheeks using blusher or an artist’s pastel. Test on scrap fabric first. Start off lightly and build up.
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I WISH I WAS
A UNICORN
PHOTOGRAPHY: PHILIP SOWELS, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY, POM POMS AND CROWN: WWW.THEHAMBLEDON.COM
Spark little ones’ imaginations with Kayleigh McDaid’s enchanting hobby horse
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HOW TO MAKE… A UNICORN HOBBY HORSE MATERIALS Q Wooden dowel or broom handle, 100 x 2.5cm (36 x 1") Q Saw (junior hacksaw) Q Sandpaper Q White fabric, 50cm (19¾") Q Fat quarter of pink fabric (or alternative colour)
Q Gold metallic fabric, 20 x 15cm (77/8 x 6") Q Sewing machine (optional) Q Needle Q White, pink and black thread Q Polyester stuffing Q Strong thread for attaching head to stick
Giddy up – let’s ride away to a magical place on a unicorn hobby horse fit for a princess (or prince). A fun twist on the classic children’s toy, this project is great for encouraging creative play and is surprisingly easy to put together. You could adjust the templates to create other animals such as a stag (add antlers instead of a horn) or a rabbit (add long ears), and use whatever colours your little one prefers. A rattle or bell inside the head is a nice touch (if you don't mind hearing it 24/7). Just be careful there are no loose parts around small children. The finished hobby horse is suitable for ages three and over. Mark and cut two grooves in the stick, 2.5cm (1") and 25cm (97/8") from the top. Sandpaper the rough edges smooth. 02 Cut a circle of white fabric, roughly 15cm (6") diameter. Using strong thread, hand stitch about 01
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1cm (3/8") from the edge, going in and out of the fabric before gathering together to form a safety pouch. Stuff until half full. 03 Insert the top end of the stick into the centre of the safety pouch, keeping your needle still attached. Add more stuffing until firm, then pull your needle tight and wrap around the groove nearest the top, threading through the fabric every so often. Repeat several times for a secure result and knot the thread securely before you come to the end. 04 Cut out the templates on page 129 and put to one side. 05 Attach pink and gold fabric to a piece of white fabric, as shown, to form the horn and hair. Sew the fabric along the edges of the coloured pieces, facing inwards as shown. Take your time, using dress pins to hold in place once you’re happy with placement. Repeat using a second piece of white fabric. Be sure to line both up
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equally so that they match up on both sides when opened out. 06 Next, open out the pieces and, using a pencil, mark outlines for the head, horn and hair from your templates. Cut out. Mark and pin facial features to each sewn piece, keeping inside the shape. Stitch eyes and mouth using black thread, remembering to sew on the sides that will face outwards. Cut two identical pink oval shapes for the cheeks, using the image as a guide. Attach to each side of the head and machine stitch around the edge to avoid fraying. Alternatively, use felt or another non-fraying material. 07 Place the two completed pieces right sides (RS) together, matching up the coloured pieces. Pin around the edges and sew together, following your outlines and remembering to leave the neck open for attaching the stick. Trim fabric around the seam allowance and turn RS out.
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Fill with polyester stuffing, starting with the horn and hair. Leave a space in the centre of the neck for the stick. 09 Make a bow using two identical rectangle pieces of pink fabric. Place RS together and use the bow template to mark and sew along the edges, leaving a small seam allowance and a gap for turning. 10 Squeeze the rectangle together in the centre and pin in place. Take a smaller piece of pink fabric, ironing folds at each side to hide the raw edges and use to secure the bow together, folding inwards and sewing at the back. 08
Sew the bow onto the unicorn head, knotting underneath to ensure the stitching is hidden. 12 Insert the wooden stick, adding stuffing as necessary. Then, using strong thread, hand stitch around the bottom of the neck as you did with the safety pouch, going in and out roughly every cm and gathering together. This time, hide the edges neatly by pushing inside as shown. Wrap thread around and into the second groove, threading through the fabric every so often, and repeat until it’s fully secure. Knot thread securely before coming to the end. 11
Kayleigh McDaid Kayleigh designs and makes unique hand-crafted creations under the name Handmade Heart Crafts. Lover of all things cute and inspired by her daughter, Lilly Beau, she hand-draws and makes children’s apparel, accessories and soft furnishings for the home. www.handmadeheartshop.bigcartel.com
ocEan knOt
CushioN Ahoy there! Get tied up with Delia Randall’s Celtic-inspired sailor cushion
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HOW TO MAKE… A KNOTTED CUSHION MATERIALS Q 1.4 x 1.4m (551/8x 551/8") fabric Q Matching all-purpose thread Q Rotary cutter Q Cutting mat Q Large safety pin Q Polyester stuffing, 1.4kg (50oz) Q Long, thin wooden stick or pole Q Hand sewing needle Q Fabric glue
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We’re busy getting in a twist with this bold nautical cushion, guaranteed to bring a touch of the high seas to any little pirate’s bedroom or playroom. You don’t need any fancy sewing skills, either – just practise creating the knot using a piece of yarn or string first, if needs be, and make sure you clear some floorspace for the eventual tying. When it comes to choosing fabric, you can use almost any kind you like. A woven cotton will yield a firmer pillow, ideal for use as a floor cushion, and a knit jersey fabric will produce a floppier, cuddlier cushion. Ours is made from woven cotton. If you decide you want a print, remember a bold
pattern won’t show up as well as a small repeating one. Wash and dry your fabric. Cut it into nine 11 x 114cm (43/8 x 45") strips. 02 Sew each strip together, short end to short end with right sides (RS) together, creating one long 11cm x 11m (43/8" x 12yrd) strip of fabric. 03 Fold over the fabric along the length RS together, and sew along the raw edges on the long side to create an 11m (12yrd) long tube. 04 Turn the tube of fabric RS out using a large safety pin. 05 Patiently stuff the tube of fabric using polyester stuffing. Warning: this can get a little 01
HOW TO TIE A CARRICK BEND MAT KNOT 01 Loop tubing exactly as pictured. 02 Add another loop, as shown in the picture. You should now have two loops. 03 Weave end through existing loops in an over-and-under fashion two times, leaving a third loop open and symmetrical with the other two existing loops. 04 Weave the end through next set of loops in the same manner as Step 3, creating a fourth loop. 05 - 08 Weave the end around the knot again, following the established pattern of loops. 09 Weave through the knot a third time.
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tedious. It helps to push the stuffing to the middle, then fill up each side of the rest of the tube from there. It also helps to break up the work over several days if you can – it’ll be worth it, promise! If you’re using a jersey fabric for the tubing, consider keeping the stuffing firm but flexible. Roll the stuffed tubing between your hands to work out lumps and keep it evenly distributed. If the stuffing really gets jammed in your tube of fabric, or becomes too bunched up, lay it on the ground and work it out using your feet. This technique allows you to apply more pressure and save stress on your hands. Once the tubing is filled, leave the ends unfinished.
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Clear a wide open space and tie the tubing into a carrick bend mat knot (see above). You should have enough tubing to loop the knot three times. It may make several tries before you get the knot right. If you find it frustrating, try practising a few times on a smaller piece of rope. 07 When you get to the end, trim any extra tubing away and remove excess stuffing from the cut end. Fold the raw ends of the 06
fabric inward and hand stitch the tubing shut using matching thread. 08 Using fabric glue, tuck the ends into the folds of the knot and tack in place. To ensure a nice secure hold, hand stitch the tucked edges in place as well. It helps to turn the pillow over and work in the folds of the knot so the stitches stay concealed and everything looks neat. You’re all done – time to find a home for your cushion, or gift it to a mini-adventurer in your life.
Delia Randall Delia’s a 30-something work-at-home mum to three kids. She dabbles in sewing, crochet, photography and other things creative, and blogs about it all. www.deliacreates.com
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Woodland pals
Make Kirsty Hartley’s super-cute animal bags for your little wild things
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PHOTOGRAPH: PHILLIP SOWELS; STYLING: BECKI CLARK. NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER 36 MONTHS DUE TO LONG CORDS. PLEASE SUPERVISE AT ALL TIMES.
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HOW TO MAKE… ANIMAL BAGS MATERIALS Q Iron-on double-sided bonding web Q Dark brown corduroy fabric Q Tailor’s chalk Q Press studs Q Matching sewing thread For the fox bag Q Cotton fabric, 60 x 60cm (235/8 x 235/8") Q Lining fabric, 60 x 60cm (235/8 x 235/8") Q Cream corduroy fabric Q Copper faux leather
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Q Two pieces of Velcro, 2.5cm (1"), 2cm (¾") wide For the bear bag Q Cotton fabric, 60 x 60cm (235/8 x 235/8") Q Lining fabric, 60 x 60cm (235/8 x 235/8") Q Silver faux leather Q Two pieces of Velcro, 2.5cm (1"), 2cm (¾") wide
Full of character, these bags are just the right size for kids to stash all their bits and pieces. A purse filled with pennies, that rock found at the park, a book of doodles… all the essentials. Use a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance on all fabric pieces except the eyes, noses and inside ears – you’ll need to add this onto your templates when cutting out these shapes. Making the fox 01 Download and print the full-size templates from www.molliemakes. com/category/templates/sewingspecial-2. Cut a main bag piece, front bag piece and four ears from the cotton fabric. Cut a main bag piece and front piece from your lining fabric, then cut the face piece from the cream cord. 02 Press back the raw edges of the face piece by 1cm (3/8"), trimming any excess. Pin into place on the main bag piece using the template
as a guide, then top stitch in place 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge. Snip the ear darts to the marked point. 03 Cut four 60 x 6cm (235/8 x 23/8") pieces from the cotton fabric. Press the long edges and one short edge to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm (3/8"), then fold in half along the length with WS together and top stitch all around. 04 Sew a Velcro square to the short end of a strap without a raw edge, then repeat with the second strap. 05 Back your metallic and dark brown corduroy fabrics with iron-on bonding web, following the manufacturer’s instructions. 06 Use the templates to cut out the appliqué pieces, then press a metallic ear piece onto a cotton ear piece, covering with a cloth so as not to damage the fabric. Repeat to make the second ear front. 07 Place an ear front and plain ear piece with right sides (RS) together and sew 1cm (3/8") in from the edge.
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HOW TO MAKE… ANIMAL BAGS Trim any excess seam allowance, then turn RS out, press, and top stitch around the appliqué. 08 With RS facing, position the ears on the cotton fabric main bag piece using the picture as a guide. Place the short end of the strap with the raw edge centrally on top of the ear, aligning the raw edges. With RS together, fold the back of the main bag piece towards the front and sew the ears and strap into place along the dart. 09 Turn the main bag piece RS out, then position the eyes and nose on the front of the bag using the template as a guide. Press and top stitch in place. 10 Fold in the darts on the cotton fabric front bag piece with RS together, then sew in place along the WS. Position the front bag piece on the main bag piece as per the template and with WS together, covering the section without the face detail. Align the raw edges,
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then sew around the curved edge. 11 Repeat Step 10 to join together the lining fabric front bag piece and main bag piece. 12 To assemble the bag, place the front bag pieces with RS together and sew from one strap position to the other along the curved edge, leaving the straight edge open. 13 Turn RS out through the straight edge, then fold in the edges the WS and pin. Top stitch in place 0.5cm (¼") in from the edge. 14 Sew either side of the press stud to the front bag piece and the inside of the main bag piece using the template as a guide, making
sure they line up correctly. Making the bear 15 Using the templates cut a main bag piece, front bag piece and four ears from the cotton fabric. Cut another main bag piece and a front piece from the lining fabric. 16 Snip into the ear darts on the cotton fabric main bag piece to the marked point. Repeat Steps 3-7, then fold in the bottom of the ear, using the image as a guide, to create a small tuck. 17 Repeat Steps 8-14, making sure that on Step 9 you layer the corduroy nose piece on top of the metallic nose piece.
Kirsty Hartley Kirsty lives in the Lancashire hills with her partner and three children. When she’s not writing and making lovely things, she can be found exploring the woods near her family home with her two lurcher pups, Willow and Sunny. www.wildthingsdresses.com
e i t f o S Big
L dino plushie X X s u o-t ve si u cl ex Hannah Hathaway’s adventures of s d n ki l al r fo gh ou is strong and sturdy en
ILLUSTRATIONS: © WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SAW
Hello
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HOW TO MAKE… A DINO PLUSHIE MATERIALS Q 1m (393/8") sturdy fabric (we used upholstery fabric) Q Needle and matching thread Q Extra large bag of toy stuffing Q Coordinating fabric for the spots Q Fabric glue Q Small sheet of black felt for the eyes
Rawwwrrrrrr! Turn the playroom or nursery into a real adventure zone with this jumbo dinosaur plushie. He’s sturdy enough for toddlers to climb on his back, or you can use him as a display piece in a smaller child’s nursery. We used a durable upholstery fabric so he lasts through vigorous fun and games, which also gives the option of making room accessories in matching fabric. For a sturdier neck, you could insert a thick wooden dowel in the middle of the toy stuffing – just make sure
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it’s thoroughly padded all around. The finished dino measures 51cm (20") tall and 71cm (28") long. Download and print the full-size templates from www.molliemakes. com/category/templates/sewingspecial-2. Connect as shown in the diagram on the download. 02 Cut out two body pieces, one belly piece and four feet from your chosen fabric. 03 Placing right sides (RS) together, sew the two body pieces together starting from the mid 01
chest all the way to the upper tip of the tail. 04 Lift up the unsewn legs on the top body piece. 05 Place the belly piece on top of the body piece, aligning the legs exactly. 06 Leaving the bottoms of the feet and one side of the tail open for stuffing, sew up the rest of the sections where the belly and body pieces meet. 07 Sew the round feet pieces onto the sections left open in the previous step.
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Turn the dinosaur RS out through the hole in the tail. Sometimes it helps to shake it. You may also need to gently push out the small parts, such as the tail, using a pointy instrument – try a pencil or a knitting needle. 09 Fill the dinosaur with toy stuffing. Be sure to pack it in very tightly, particularly in areas such as the neck and feet, so that it’s extra sturdy for toddlers to sit on. Once you can’t stuff him anymore, sew up the opening on the tail using a whip stitch. 08
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Cut out the felt eyes and glue them to the face. 11 Cut out some coordinating colourful fabric circles, using the main image as a guide, to create his spotty markings. 10
Choose where you want the spots to go and then stick them down using fabric glue. If you prefer, you can also stitch around the eyes and spots to make sure they’re securely attached. 12
Hannah Hathaway Hannah is a 20-something United States Marine wife and mother-of-three. She loves everything creative, including art and graphic design, and writes about all her crafty adventures on her blog. www.welivedhappilyeverafter.com
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TEMPLATES Unless otherwise stated, templates are shown at 100%.You can ďŹ nd the full-size templates ready to download from www.molliemakes.com/ category/templates/sewing-special-2 DRESSING GOWN BY H & SAMMY PAGE 35 Photocopy at 400%
Template diagram
Waistline
Sleeve front Cut 2
Place on the fold Waistline
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Sleeve back Cut 2
DRESSING GOWN BY H & SAMMY PAGE 35 Photocopy at 400%
Tie casing Cut 2
Back Cut 1
Tie Cut 2
Attach the two back pieces along the dotted line to make one template
Attach the two back pieces along the dotted line to make one template
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
Back
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DRESSING GOWN BY H & SAMMY PAGE 35 Photocopy at 400%
Front
Front Cut 2
Attach the two front pieces along the dotted line to make one template
Neck band Cut 2
Neck band
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Attach the two neck band pieces along the dotted line to make one template
Attach the two neck band pieces along the dotted line to make one template
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
BOMBER JACKET BY LANA RED PAGE 13 These templates are to be used as a guide – for full sizing instructions, refer to the project on page 13.
Width
Fold
Fold Width
MORNING STAR QUILT BY LYNNE GOLDSWORTHY PAGE 41 Photocopy at 200%
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SUCCULENT CUSHION BY HANNAH HATHAWAY PAGE 45 Photocopy at 200%
B Cut 8
C Cut 6
D Cut 2
A Cut 22
Half Circle Cut 2
E Cut 4
BUNNY PLUSHIE BY REGINA GROLEAU PAGE 97 Photocopy at 200%
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Head Cut 1 in wool
B A H
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Body Cut 2 in wool
Ear Cut 2 in wool and 2 cotton
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Arm Cut 2 in wool
Tail Cut 1 in wool
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
UNICORN BAG BY H & SAMMY PAGE 94 Photocopy at 200%
Ear Cut 4
Horn Cut 1 in sparkly pink fabric and one in interfacing
Flap Cut 2 in cotton and 1 in fusible fleece
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FRENCH KNOT This is a stitch that everyone should learn, because it’s so useful. The secret is to hold the working thread taut while you pull it through. Come up at point 1, then wrap the thread around the needle twice. Holding the working thread with your non-dominant hand, bring the needle down at point 2 (close to point 1, but not the same hole) and pull slowly until the knot is formed.
Eye Cut 2
Star Cut 1 in sparkly white fabric
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BACKSTITCH This stitch is ideal for outlines, and it’s the one you’ll find you use the most. Come up from the back at point 1, then go down at point 2. Come up at point 3, then go back to point 1 and bring the needle through to the back.
BLANKET STITCH (SURFACE) Come up at point 1. Go down at point 2 and come back up at point 3, keeping the needle over the working thread. Pull the thread to create a right angle. Repeat for as many stitches as needed. This is fun for decorative stitching but it can also join fabric pieces – just stitch through both pieces and the rightangled thread will run along the join.
FLY STITCH This simple stitch can be worked as individual stitches or in a line. Come up at point 1, then go down at point 2, leaving the thread loose. Come up at point 3, catching the loop of thread, then pull to form a ‘V’. Go down at point 4.
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SQUIRREL PEG BAG BY ABBY GLASSENBERG PAGE 70 Photocopy at 200%
ot
fold
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Ear Cut 2 from felt
Fo
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Head Cut 2 from fleece
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Body Cut 2 from fleece
OPEN
Tail
Foot
Ea
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Cut 1 from felt
Cut 4 from felt
Place on fold
BABY BOOTIES BY KAROLINA RADOMSKA-NISHII PAGE 101 Photocopy at 125%
Rubber
Shoe sole
Vamper
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
Heel
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SEWING MACHINE COVER BY MANDY PELLEGRIN PAGE 73 Photocopy at 139%
1B
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FELT PATISSERIE BY CHRISTINE LEECH PAGE 77
Whipped cream for the cake slice Cut 1
Mini meringue for the fruit tart Cut 5
Icing for the cake slice and cream for macaron religieuse Cut 2 for the cake slice and cut 4 for the macaron religieuse
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COSMETIC BAG BY ALI BURDON PAGE 86 Photocopy at 200%
Small bag Cut 2
POT HOLDER AND OVEN GLOVE BY ALI BURDON PAGE 49 Photocopy at 200%
Oven glove
Pot holder pocket
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UNICORN HOBBY HORSE BY KAYLEIGH MCDAID PAGE 108 Photocopy at 200%
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
Head Cut 2
Horn Cut 2
Bow Cut 2
Hair Cut 2
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CUSTOMISABLE DOLLS BY LOUISE KELLY PAGE 104 Photocopy at 200%
Hair – Ponytail back Cut 1 Back body Cut 2
Hair – Topknot back Cut 1
Gilet front Cut 2
Front body Cut 1
Arm Cut 4
Gilet back Cut 1 Hair – Topknot front Cut 1
Bag flap Cut 1
Bag Cut 2
Hair – Ponytail front Cut 1 Rose
Face Cut 1
Doll pants Cut 2 NAME
Bodice front Cut 1
Bodice back Cut 1
Leg Cut 4
Eye Cut 2
Bag strap Cut 1
Poppy Petals
Bodice back Cut 1
Base
Boot Cut 4
FIND FULL SIZE TEMPLATES ON molliemakes.com/ category/templates/ sewing-special-2
MINI BOOKENDS BY LEAH FARQUHARSON PAGE 55 Photocopy at 200%
Tower bookend side
Pyramid bookend bottom Tower bookend top & bottom
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Pyramid bookend side
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