gfdss by dora

The UK's No.1 sewing mag

Shake up

YOUR LOOK L Bold new garment

shapes to try L Follow our in-depth fitting tutorials L Expert guide to

Sizes

XS-XL STRETCH YOURSELF

Top tips for flawless jersey garments

couture tweeds

Sizes

6-24 Scrap-busting LAMPSHADE

Essential JERSEY DRESS

Fresh home décor inspiration ISSUE 61 UK £7.99

Inspire Imagine Create

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MASTERCLASS Pattern-match fabric like a pro

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See Nickki's jade jumpsuit on page 21

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 61 of Love Sewing

ow, I don't know about you but my sewing queue never seems to get any shorter – there are so many inspiring makes to try next! That's why I love how quickly the Butterick dress and jumpsuit pattern, included in this issue, comes together! We've timed making a few versions and have clocked it at only three hours! And, as it works in jersey and wovens, you could make four versions in no time. Don't forget, our Butterick patterns come with in-depth instructions to ensure sewing success and we love being able to offer the full size range inside the envelope so you don't have to worry that your size isn't covered.

What a versatile pattern!

One of my favourite gifts from last year was the vintage calendar we created in partnership with The McCall Pattern Company, using imagery from its archive and a few cheeky puns, perfect for sewing enthusiasts. This year we're so excited to include our 2019 calendar, the ideal desk companion, with humourous captions

Our gorgeous vintage calendar is here! LS61.P03.indd 3

Sher ART EDITOR As well as creating gorgeous page layouts for Love Sewing magazine, Sher loves crafting things with her hands. She regularly crochets accessories and toys, and has been working on her first hand-pieced quilt!

Bethany AND a sewing notes section so you can keep on top of your projects throughout the month! We can't wait to see what you think of this year's design and hope it brings a smile to your face all year long. Everyone at Love Sewing HQ is thinking about Christmas party outfits at the moment as the theme for it this year is royalty. We'll all be donning our most luxurious garments, sparkliest accessories and channelling our inner princess or prince. I can't wait to start on my party outfit as it will give me a small break from hand-sewing lace onto my best friend's wedding dress, ready for her December wedding. It's prompting me to remind you, if you're taking on any hand sewing soon, remember to work with good light, a comfy chair and keep drinks or snacks within reaching distance.

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks and pins available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She loves to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

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Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES

3 Welcome 6 Love Sewing Loves 10 Fabric focus – Save 20% at Rooftop Fabrics 12 This month I’m making 14 A Brief History of Spandex with Wendy Ward 21 Reader review: Butterick 6312 23 Save 20% at The Makery 24 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 34 Stay in check fabric masterclass 39 Inside a fabric designer’s studio with Sarah Campbell 47 Readers’ makes 48 In the good books 50 Swatch Selector with Kerry Green 52 Sewing workshops 55 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 60 PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS 65 DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS 78 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 80 15 minutes with Crafty Sew & So 83 Shop of the month 84 Pattern picks – 25% off Simple Sew patterns

2-in-1 dress & jumpsuit!

PROJECTS

Receive Named Patterns’ Breaking the pattern when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info

86 Fabric focus – Save 20% on jersey at Fabricate 88 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 90 Exclusive reader offer 92 Fabric focus – Gertrude Made barkcloth collection 94 Machine review 96 Coming next issue

18 Your Butterick pattern gift – 2-in-1 dress and jumpsuit 28 Word perfect slogan hoop 30 Think pink heritage tweed skirt 36 Turn on the light lampshade 43 Into the blue jersey cowl top 57 Simply magic Popcorn the unicorn toy 69 Keep calm and press on iron case 75 To the point jersey dress 98 Earn your stripe tote bag

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk lovesewingmag

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iwning W a se

Editorial Editor Amy Scarr Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Chief Sub-Editor Vicky Lawrenson Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai, Nicola Vernon-Smith Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

retreat

75 65

Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel 0844 826 0613

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Save 25%

Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

CONTRIBUTORS Julia Claridge

Fiona Hesford

Julia is the creative brain behind www.bobbinsnbuttons. co.uk. A former fashion designer, she now hosts sewing classes, designs paper patterns for children and runs a wonderful online fabric shop. In this issue Julia shares a fun jersey dress project on page 75.

Regular contributor Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not try her heritage tweed skirt project with eye-catching slits on page 30 with great tips for tricky couture wool fabric? Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk

Pati Palmer

Sarah Wadey & Freya Gilbert

Pati is sharing all the details on her new book created with Marta Alto on page 48. The pair have over 40 years of fitting experience to pass on. Learn all about the amazing Palmer/ Pletsch tissue fitting technique and why it’s so much faster than working with a fabric toile!

Meet Freya and Sarah on page 80. They co-own Crafty Sew & So, a Leicester based fabric shop and sewing studio www.craftysewandso.com. They launched their pattern range ‘My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns’ in January 2018 and on page 43 they share the comfiest party top you’ll ever sew!

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

It's a

COVER UP

ALL LIT UP Have you ever tried sewing with light-reactive fabric? Empress Mills has a brilliant new range of designs that are visible in standard indoor light, but, when they are exposed to UV rays in sunlight an array of new colours and designs magically appear. Trust us, this is something kids are going to love! The fabrics feature a cotton rich jersey base cloth, making them ideal for sewing garments. Plus, you could use them with a firm stabiliser for home sewing projects where you might prefer a no-stretch fabric. Price: £8.75 per half metre from www.empressmills.co.uk

Best foot forward

Chic, stylish and oh so French, we’re loving the sophisticated new patterns from Deer&Doe. The Magnolia dress is a mock-wrap style, with long sleeves to keep you covered up, as well as a plunging neckline and a sultry slit up the side of the dramatic maxi skirt. This is definitely a dress to make an entrance, even with a shorter skirt in Version B, thanks to the flowing butterfly sleeves. Sewing your winter wardrobe this month? Don’t forget to check out the Opium coat pattern too, with a flattering swing style, raglan sleeves and origami welt pockets. It’s fully lined to give a luxurious finish and a great pattern for anyone looking to push their skills and try something more advanced. Sizes: 34-52 (European sizes) Price: Printed pattern €14 (approximately. £12.35) PDF pattern €11 (approximately £9.70), from www.shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en

There is a world of machine feet options out there, providing you with endless opportunities for improving your sewing skills and producing quilts of the highest quality. But with so many machine manufacturers and models out there, it can be tricky to make sure that your trusty machine will be compatible. The folk at Frank Nutt Sewing Machines have got Bernina invisible you covered! Its online zipper foot shop stocks a wide range of Bernina, Brother and Janome machine feet and you can enter your model number before you buy so you can check that the feet will work perfectly with your home machine, meaning you can concentrate on planning your next quilt. Discover more at www.franknutt.co.uk

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SMART

CASUALS

Find yourself a comfy knit such as sweatshirt fleece, double knit or Ponte di roma and treat yourself to the cosy new Pumpkin Cardigan sewing pattern and dress from CocoWawa Crafts. There are four versions to try, allowing you to choose sleeve length, waistband, neckline and pocket styles to suit your shape. The instructions and technical drawings are wonderfully detailed and there’s even a useful YouTube video to give you an extra helping hand! This is a great pattern for anyone looking to sew with knits for the first time. Size: 6-20 Price: PDF pattern £10, paper pattern £14, from www.cocowawacrafts.com

Stitchers gonna

STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

PARTY CAT

Needlework emporium Cloud Craft has launched a new brand dedicated to teaching kids’ embroidery, called StitchPop. The first three kits include this Party Cat by Sophie Simpson, for children and anyone young at heart! Available for £14.50 at www. cloudcraft.co.uk

FLOWER POWER

We’re going crazy for cats this month, especially this fabulous cat embroidery kit with a gorgeous floral headdress. The kit includes everything you need to brighten up bare walls! Pick up yours for £8 at www. hobbycraft.co.uk

Pretty in

PAISLEY FELINE FUN

We can’t resist a classic paisley print with swirling prints and a hint of vintage character. The iconic droplet-like motif is showcased beautifully at Croft Mill, with a wide selection of detailed prints in retro colours, adorning everything from polyester to wool, cotton and even denim. Shop: Discover the full collection of Paisley fabric, at www.croftmill.co.uk

The Threaders embroidery transfer sheets allow you to iron on your design and start stitching straight away! The Pets pack includes six sheets, with a handy embroidery guide, which is only £4.99 from www.crafters companion.co.uk

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LLAMA LOVE Inspired by nature and covered in tiny cacti and charming llamas, the Far Away collection is ideal for sewing accessories, home décor items and quirky clothing. Designed by Elizabeth Olwen for Cloud9 Fabrics, this latest fabric range has a folksy feel, celebrating the great outdoors through a palette of green, mustard and brown, and sweet prints of hillside plants and wildlife. The sewing options are endless! Shop: Find your nearest stockist at www.cloud9fabrics.com/whereto-buy

Better sweaters MC9450 QCP

Need for

SPEED

HD9

The new Jarrah pattern from Megan Nielsen Patterns is an easy sew for beginners and a satisfying make for anyone with a little more experience in the sewing room. In a loose-fitting drop shoulder shape, you can choose from a stylish crew or funnel neckline, with two sleeve options and four hem styles, including an on-trend knotted version. Perfect for year-round wear, you’ll find it tricky to stop at just one! Sizes: 0-30 Price: Printed pattern $17 (approximately £13.12), PDF $14.16 (approximately £10.93), at www. megannielsen.com

Janome has released two exciting new sewing machines that are sure to take your skills to the next level! The MC9450 QCP is designed to suit all sewists and boasts a large LCD colour touch screen, brighter LED lights and built-in ruler. It usually retails for £999, but there is a special introductory price of £899 on now. If you have a need for speed, then you will love the HD9, which allows you to straight-stitch at 1,600 stitches per minute! This heavy-duty, professional-standard machine has a larger foot pedal and 1.4 x larger bobbin, holding 40% more thread than normal bobbins, which allows you to sew freely or for longer. The HD9 has a retail price of £2,399 but with the introductory offer it is available for £1,999! Shop: Find your nearest stockist at www.janome.co.uk

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SUNNY VIBES

The dark nights are well and truly here, but there are still plenty of ways to keep it light and bright indoors. We love this sweet wall hanging embroidery kit from Just Toppers that includes a felt banner with pre-cut holes, a wooden top panel, cotton thread, needle and full instructions, making it brilliant for teaching kids to sew too! Price: £18 at www.notonthehighstreet.com

Jersey Girl The new year is the perfect time to think about stretching your skills. And, if you’re looking to make the leap to sewing with jersey fabric then you can overcome your fear of knits at a fabulous new one-day workshop from Fabric HQ. You will learn lots of new techniques, including how to use twin and stretch needles, and once you’re confident in your new-found skills you can put them into practice! Tutor Sam will guide you in constructing the beautiful Origami Shrug pattern by Two Stitches, a lovely pattern we’re sure you will want to make again and again. When: 26th January 2019, 9.30am-3.30pm Where: Fabric HQ, Layby Farm, Old Risborough Road, Stoke Mandeville, Buckinghamshire HP22 5XL Price: £75 from www.fabrichq.co.uk

LET'S TALK

FABRIC

Take a textiles tour – from the mummies of Ancient Egypt to the synthetic fibres blended for astronauts – and discover how fabric has impacted the world we live in, in an upcoming talk from author Kassia St Clair. Taking place at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, ‘How Fabric Changed History’ will discuss how natural and man-made fabrics have impacted people throughout civilisation, from silken dragon robes of Imperial China to the Indian calicoes and chintzes that powered the Industrial Revolution. The talk follows the release of Kassia’s new book, The Golden Thread (Hodder & Stoughton, £20), which offers a feast of fabric inspiration and information. The Kassia’s talk includes the opportunity to ask questions, followed by a book signing. When: 10th January 2019, 6-8pm Where: Fashion & Textiles Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF Price: £15/£12 students, book online at www.ftmlondon.org

IN THE BAG

Taking inspiration from the style icon that is Mary Poppins, the new Carpet Bag pattern from Rosie & Me may not be able to house a lamp and a wall mirror but it’s certainly pretty spacious for all of your essentials! It’s available in a small and larger size, with both designs including a tube frame closure, handles, bag feet, a magnetic closure and multiple pockets for all of your bits and pieces. The printed pattern is available as an intermediate-level kit from Dutch vintage-inspired sewing pattern specialists, Rosie & Me and includes everything you will need, excluding fabric. Price: €20-€30 (approximately £17.50-£26.25) from www.rosieandme.com

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www.next.co.uk

SAVE 20% on Christmas fabric using the code LS20*

Add some extra cheer to your Christmas break by whipping up a gorgeous gift for your loved ones using fabric stocked by Rooftop Fabrics! As well as its fabulously festive collection of seasonal prints, it also stocks 100 different designs of plush fabric and several hundred cotton designs that will help inspire your sewing throughout the year. This month the team is offering Love Sewing readers a 20% discount on fabric featured in its Christmas range. Visit www.rooftopfabrics.com/ christmas-fabrics and enter code LS20 at checkout before 3rd January to save. *Visit www.rooftopfabrics.com/ christmas-fabrics to save 20% on all Christmas fabric. Offer is subject to availability and valid between 24th November â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3rd January.

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This month 1'm making It’s officially coat season and we love Rebecca’s version of the Simplicity 8509. Read more about her sewing journey on her blog www.prettyhandsomeblog.wordpress.com

he beautiful, chilly autumn is upon us again and all year I’ve been considering making myself a new coat. I knew I wanted a longer coat as I wear a lot of knee-length skirts and dresses, and I wanted the bottom of the coat to cover that. The pattern I chose was Simplicity 8509. This 1950s reprint by Simplicity is really chic and I love the vintage style. It also has quite a lot of variation so you can add features to your coat or jacket, or make multiple in different styles. I planned to sew version A, which is the long-line coat with wide, turned-up cuffs. I also added the welt pockets from the other versions.

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

For my fabric, I had in mind a pink wool, but when I saw this fabric I knew it was the one – monochrome, polka dot and reversible! This coating fabric is a wool and polyester blend, and is really soft. It’s the perfect thickness for this relaxed-style coat style, and is warm. I would normally choose a bright or patterned lining for a coat but I loved the elegance of the monochrome so I stuck with a black lining fabric and let the polka dots take centre stage. I find that pattern instructions can vary on how much information they give you, but this Simplicity pattern gives you lots of extra advice before you even start sewing. The ‘Details from the vintage vault’ section provides tips on fittings, directional stitching and sewing with faux furs. I thought this was really helpful information.

Rebecca says... this Simplicity pattern gives you lots of extra advice before you even start sewing

Rebecca used the Simplicity 8509 pattern, £10.50, wool blend reversible spots woven coating fabric, £13.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

My own extra tip for this coat would be to staystitch the neck and shoulder edges of the fabric. Because the coat is so long and wide in design it can feel quite heavy from those points and I was concerned that my edges were spreading so I think just a quick stay stitch would help avoid any annoying stretches. The shoulder pads are of course optional but I decided to add mine because I felt the voluminous body of the coat and the bold turned-up sleeves needed balancing out on top. The shoulder pads are easy to fit – just work out how far out you need them to sit on your shoulder, pin in place and try on, then stitch the pad to the shoulder seam. I’m thrilled with the finished coat, it has a 1950s, elegant, Parisian feel that I was hoping to achieve and I know I’m going to get so much wear out of it. Despite the wool not being overly thick, the coat is really warm and the softness of the wool makes it comfortable and snugly to wear. I may add a tie belt (using the white background/black spot side of the fabric), or maybe some inconspicuous snap closures so I can still wear it when it’s really cold. I love how many options you have in this pattern, I have no doubt I’ll be using it again soon.

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This month 1'm making It’s officially coat season and we love Rebecca’s version of the Simplicity 8509. Read more about her sewing journey on her blog www.prettyhandsomeblog.wordpress.com

Rebecca says... this Simplicity pattern gives you lots of extra advice before you even start sewing

Rebecca used the Simplicity 8509 pattern, £10.50, wool blend reversible spots woven coating fabric, £13.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

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HISTORY OF

A BRIEF

A brief history of

SPANDEX Revolutionising wardrobes, the popularity of spandex quickly stretched across the textiles world and beyond, helping us to improve the fit and comfort of our garments. Wendy Ward tells us more

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The presence of spandex is inescapable and it can be found in almost all of the clothes we wear today

f you haven’t heard of spandex, you will definitely have heard of Lycra or elastane and you probably wear it every day without realising. You don’t have to be head to foot in sportswear to be wearing spandex! All three terms are used to describe the same fabric; spandex is the generic name for elastane fibre in North America, but in the UK and Europe, DuPont’s brand name for its elastane fibre is Lycra, which is more commonly used. I don’t know where the word spandex comes from, but it's rumoured to be an anagram of the word ‘expands’, which I rather like! This remarkably elastic and widespread fibre is completely synthetic – a derivative of oil that was first invented in 1959 by American textile chemist Joseph Shivers. He discovered it while he was working at DuPont on a project to develop a synthetic replacement for rubber. Spandex is a long-chain synthetic polymeric fibre, which has the ability to stretch up to 60% and still recover its original shape. Originally called Fiber K, spandex is blended with other natural and manmade fibre, such as linen, silk, wool and cotton.

Simplicity 8344 plus-size knit bodysuits by Ashley Nell Tipton, sizes 18W-34W, £9.50 www.sewdirect.com

Its impressive ability to stretch and recover again makes it perfect for close-fitting garments and clothing worn by athletes. Until the invention of spandex, natural rubber was used in elastic and added to textiles to make them stretch. However, natural rubber is damaged by sunlight, oil and sweat and it also gradually reduces in elasticity and strength over time. Natural rubber thread is also heavier in weight than spandex, making it a less appealing option.

Spandex gained huge popularity in the 1960s, adding comfort and support to women’s undergarments and tights in particular. It soon appeared in men and women’s swimwear and made the transition to popular sporting garments when the 1968 French Olympic ski team wore it on the slopes. The 1970s saw cyclists, dancers and gymnasts embrace spandex in their activewear, with the fabric quickly translating into streetwear and everyday sports clothes.

DuPont’s spandex technology proved to be extremely valuable and manufacturers were quick to notice its potential in transforming not only textiles but also many other industries. So important was this information, spandex has even been the subject of an extortion attempt where production technology documents were stolen in an attempt to extract $10 million from DuPont for their return! A combined investigation from the FBI and Swiss police caught the extortionists as part of a sting operation and the stolen documents were safely returned.

The presence of spandex is inescapable and it can be found in almost all of the clothes we wear today, bringing with it the benefits of improved comfort, fit, ease of care (no ironing required!) and durability. Some of its most popular uses include comfortable underwear that keeps its shape and gives great support, jeans that don’t feel like cardboard and leggings and tights that don’t get baggy knees. It is also used to create suits that won’t crease and are comfortable enough to wear for long days and socks that actually stay up!

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Spandex is ideal for sewing activewear. Find shorts, vests and more sporty patterns at www.shop.fehrtrade.com

Away from garments, there are many other places you might be surprised to find spandex. It can be found in shoes, car interiors, bandages, home textiles such as curtains, cushions, throws and carpets. Plus, it can even be found in some disposable nappies! Spandex is never used on its own and can be blended with many other natural and man-made fibres. This is probably what has helped its incorporation into so many of the textiles we wear and use today. The actual spandex content of fabric can vary widely. If you’re not sure what spandex content is best for your project when you’re out fabric shopping, here’s a quick guide. It’s important to note that fabric in the UK will most likely be labelled elastane or Lycra, not spandex. A spandex content of 3-5% will give added comfort for close-fitting garments, for example, cotton/elastane single jersey for fitted T-shirts and stretch denim for skinny jeans. Between 10% and 12% provides better recovery (ie avoids baggy knees) for really fitted garments such as leggings and some activewear, whereas a spandex content of over 20% will be best for high performance sportswear and swimwear. To prolong the life of your spandex garments, I have picked up a few tips. Don’t tumble dry, iron, or bleach and wash on a

FIND OUT MORE A wide range of spandex fabric can be found at www.ukfabricsonline.com

gentle cycle. To avoid sports clothing with spandex hanging on to that stale sweaty smell from your workouts, I recommend not exceeding 40º water temperature and not using the most vigorous cycle on your washing machine. I add soda crystals to my regular detergent liquid and use distilled white vinegar in the fabric conditioner drawer, the added bonus being that these products also keep your washing machine clean, soften water and reduce limescale, plus this is great value. After washing, air-dry indoors on an airer or outside on the line, never using a direct heat source such as a tumble drier or a radiator as it can damage the elastane fibre.

For a large selection of activewear patterns, visit www.fehrtrade.com, www.closetcasepatterns. com, www.sewdirect.com and www.sewaholicpatterns.com Discover more about Wendy Ward at www.wendyward. wordpress.com Shop a wide range of spandex fabric at: Funkifabrics www.funkifabrics.com Penine Outdoor www.pennineoutdoor.co.uk UK Fabrics Online www.ukfabricsonline.com Discovery Knitting www.discoveryknitting.co.uk

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Your

GIFT

Dream

DUO

We love the two options in this pattern pack! Choose between a romantic floaty dress and an modern jumpsuit. Every McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-by-step guide designed to push your sewing skills further

VIEW A

This eye-catching rayon dress will look great with ankle boots and a chunky oversized cardigan

We used

Dovestone floral rayon in grey by Dashwood Studio, ÂŁ13.20 per metre www.eclecticmaker.co.uk

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SKIP THE ZIP! Depending on the size you choose to make and the stretch of your fabric, you could look at omitting the zip from the centre back, and throw your outfit on even more quickly in the morning

Top tip!

We share advice for sewing jersey garments on page 43!

VIEW D

We love patterns that work in multiple fabric types! This jumpsuit can be made in wovens or jersey, like we used here

We used

Plain cotton rich jersey in light khaki, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.empressmills.co.uk

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MASTERCLASS

RADIANT RAYON Use this floaty fabric to create a stylish dress or jumpsuit that works all year round, with our top tips!

WHAT IS RAYON? Viscose (also known as rayon in the US) is what is known as a man-made fibre rather than a synthetic. It is actually derived from plant-based materials that go through a chemical washing process. Often made of soy, bamboo or sugar cane, it was invented in the 1890s. The name viscose, from the word viscosity, comes from the thick liquid consistency of the fibres after treatment. Originally used to strengthen car tyres, it soon became woven into a fabric with similar properties to silk at a fraction of the cost.

EXPERT TIPS: Always choose good-quality rayon that is not too loosely woven as this makes it easier to work with. Pre-wash and press your fabric as rayon/ viscose shrinks. Rayon is not the easiest to sew, so choose a simple sewing pattern style with fewer seams. Use sharp scissors for cutting out or use a rotary cutter. Change your sewing machine needle to a finer 70/12 size, also use fine sharp pins. Adjust your sewing machine tension and stitch length and try sewing the fabric with some smaller pieces before starting on the real garment, use a straight stitch. For finishing the seams use a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Use soft and light interfacing so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t interfere with the gorgeous drape of the rayon but still holds the shape. While sewing, try not to pull or stretch the fabric, the same goes for pressing. Carefully move the not-too-hot iron over your fabric without distorting it.

Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details

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Reader Review

Butterick 6312 Nikki is part of the fabulous vlogger duo Stitch Sisters, www.youtube.com/stitchsisters. She shares her version of this issue’s Butterick pattern gift

hen Love Sewing asked if I would review its newest pattern gift, Butterick 6312, I couldn’t have been happier! I love a jumpsuit and had planned to make a special one for the Christmas party season, so this fitted in with my sewing plans beautifully. I chose this stunning teal satinbacked crêpe from Minerva Fabrics, which is ex-Prada stock. (Available in 28 colours, £13.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com). The quality of this fabric was beyond even my wildest dreams and the colour is so vivid. The satin back means that it is as nice on the inside to wear as it looks on the outside. I decided to go down a size as there is a lot of ease built into the pattern and I preferred a slightly slimmer fit. It is just two pattern pieces and the construction couldn’t have been simpler. You do need to add a zip in the centre back but this is well explained in the pattern. I saw online that someone had altered the back into a V-neckline as well, which meant they could shimmy in and out of the jumpsuit

without the zip, so that might be something to try. I also added 4” of length to the leg as I am quite tall and I wanted it to fall a few inches above my ankles, it is winter after all! If you are long in the body I would advise lengthening through the bodice too. All in all, its a quick, simple pattern, ideal for a beginner or someone short on sewing time. I chose to add some quirky detail with a leopard print belt (and shoes!) but you could also make a matching belt from your fabric. It makes a perfect base to show off some fun accessories, or a stunning fabric. You should ideally look for fabric with a lovely drape to it so your dress or jumpsuit will be just fabulous and party ready. Time to hit the dance floor!

In issue 62 Shauni reviews McCall's 7661 trousers

Say hello to Nikki on Instagram sodburysewing www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

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The Dressmaker's T

here isn't a single item of clothing in my wardrobe I look forward to breaking out of its summertime hibernation more than the jumper. Cosy and cuddly, sparkly and novelty, or moth-eaten and threadbare, a good jumper is like a hug. Favourites of mine include a scuzzy oversized wool hoodie left behind by an ex-boyfriend, smart Merino V-necks in navy and burgundy, a couple of slightly washshrunken cashmere charity shop scores, a sparkly lurex cardi perfect for layering over circle skirts, and a fluffy angora sweater that may as well be a Persian cat – and just as allergy inducing!

Snuggle up during the chilly weather with Elisalex's top picks of sweaters and cardigans The Stella Hoodie appears in the book Stretch! by Tilly & The Buttons, £22.50, published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant)

With Elisalex

DIARY

Jumpers and jeans are my uniform during the colder months, but believe it or not, I still don’t have any handmade jumpers to add to my rotation. But with so many great patterns out there now, and snuggly knit fabric being added to my favourite fabric shops every week, I think this winter that’s all about to change...

Top tip!

Fine sweater knits can be hard to find but you'll find a good selection at www. girlcharlee.co.uk

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The Juniper Cardigan. UK 6-24, PDF pattern AUD $12.99, www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.store

TURTLE & FUNNEL NECK JUMPERS High neck jumpers are having a real moment in 'PatternLand' right now, from chunky roll necks to elegant funnels and everything in between. For maximum cosiness, my advice is to invest in the highest quality fabric you can afford, avoiding scratchy textures and unnatural fibres that may irritate the delicate skin around your neck. Elliot by Helen’s Closet – I do enjoy a raglan tee and this pattern, with its endless scope for seasonal variation, is a winner. As a sweater it boasts a turtle neck, long sleeves and a split hem, but if you omit the neck and crop the sleeves, you’ve got the only T-shirt pattern you’ll ever need! Brooklyn by Style Arc – With its oversized shape, super snuggly roll neck and side seam pockets, this is the only jumper you’ll need for chilly campside nights. Opt for weighty knits and fleece for maximum cosiness, and did I mention, it has pockets?! Talvikki by Named Clothing – Definitely not your average sweater! The style lines and darts that give the funnel neck its ergonomic shape elevate this pattern into high-end territory. Cosy and couture? I'm sold. SWEATSHIRTS & HOODIES A wardrobe essential, if you’re going to sew only one jumper this season, let it be a classic that you’ll wear forever.

The Talvikki Sweater features stylish neckline darts. UK 4-22, prices start from €10, www.namedclothing.com Sloane by Named Clothing Don’t ever expect anything boring or basic from Named! While this may look like a staple sweatshirt pattern, the long French darts lend this sweater a dose of unexpected detail and some much needed shape. Stella hoodie by Tilly & The Buttons Tilly makes loungewear simple and versatile! This uncomplicated hoodie pattern is perfect for weekend dog walks on the Heath, but the best news is that you can even make it into a dress – never leaving the house again.

Oslo by Seamwork – Conjuring cosy countryside scenes of roaring open fires and endless games of Scrabble, the Oslo cardigan, with its shawl collar and double-breasted button option made in a chunky We love the range of cable rib knit, is giving me knit jersey fabric available Grandpa chic nostalgia, at www.higgsandhiggs. and I like it.

Top tip!

Linden by Grainline Studio – A classic that’s been around for a while, and truly com in a variety of Juniper by Jennifer Lauren stood the test of time stylish colours Handmade – With both hip as it continues to be a and waist length options, this favourite among sewists the is a classic V-neck cardi with some world over. This quintessential really interesting construction details. raglan sweatshirt pattern can be Saddle shoulders make this a satisfyingly made from a multitude of different challenging make, and the perfect vessel knits, and looks especially great for experiments in colour blocking. with contrast colour sleeves. CARDIGANS Perfect for layering, wrapping around yourself against the cold, and throwing over your nightie on chilly mornings, cardigans deserve a lot more recognition than the sweater sub-category status they seem to maintain.

Blackwood Cardigan, XS-XXL, $14 (approximately £10.77) www.helenscloset.ca

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Blackwood by Helen’s Closet Designed to be worn open and free-flowing, the Blackwood is the perfect lightweight layering cardi for when you need that extra layer of warmth under your coat, without the overwhelming bulk of a heavy jumper.

Are you inspired to get sewing like I am?

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex de Castro Peake is the Head of Design and co-founder of By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site, at www.byhandlondon.com

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W t

HOME

We love

WORD perfect

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 10” squares of each print in Sun Print 2018 by Alison Glass (27 in total) • ¾ yard white fabric • 15½” square 80/20 Stitch It wadding • 12” hoop • Stitch & Tear stabiliser or disappearing fabric marker • printer paper • Add-A-Quarter ruler • seam roller • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Mix pretty prints and foundation paper piecing to create this eye-catching slogan hoop Project JO WESTFOOT

CUTTING: From each of the Sun Print fabrics, cut: • 2 6x2” rectangles From white fabric, cut: • 14x5½” rectangle • 16” square for backing

NOTES: This hoop design is made up of two foundation paper-pieced (FPP) blocks (top and bottom) and a central section

FINISHED SIZE: 12” diameter

Top tip

If you aren’t sure how to FPP, try Jo’s video tutorial for beginners, at www.thecrafty nomad.co.uk

Shopping list Alison Glass Sun Print collection 2018. To find your local stockist, visit www.makoweruk.com/retailers Find 80/20 Stitch It wadding at www.empressmills.co.uk

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MASTERCLASS

FLAWLESS FINISH STITCH LENGTH Make sure to use a short stitch when foundation paper piecing so that ripping out the papers later is easier and less likely to damage the stitches. 1.5 is usually a good length. BORDER TO BORDER Ensure that your fabric reaches the whole of the outer seam allowance, indicated by the pale grey borders on the pattern pieces. SAFE STITCHING Reverse-stitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching to protect the stitches when you rip the papers out later. CLEVER CUTTING Using an Add-AQuarter ruler is quicker than a regular acrylic ruler as the ridge stops the ruler from slipping, providing a quicker and more accurate cut. Butt the 1â &#x201E;4â&#x20AC;? ridge up to the folded back paper. This also allows you to slide the ruler up the seam, keeping the 1â &#x201E;4â&#x20AC;? consistent all the way along. KEEP ON ROLLING Using a seam roller saves you getting the iron out for each piece!

HOW TO MAKE: PREPARATION Each block consists of an A and B section. You need two blocks, so print two A templates and two B templates. Order the fabric in a way that you like. Piece each section in the order indicated by the numbers printed on the paper. Iron or seam roll in between each join and ensure you have trimmed the seam allowance back to Âźâ&#x20AC;?. Join section A to B to form each block. (See Pic A.) Carefully rip out all

the papers by folding and tearing along the lines of stitching. Press. ASSEMBLY Stitch the top and bottom pieces to the central white section. (See Pic B.) Make a quilt sandwich by layering up the backing fabric right side down, the wadding and the quilt top right side up. Baste together using pins or spray adhesive. Trace the words onto some tear-away stabiliser. Pin to the quilt (See Pic C.) Using a triple stitch to get a bold outline, stitch along the lines. Tear away the stabiliser. If you

prefer not to use tear-away stabiliser then you can trace the design onto the white fabric before layering, using a disappearing marker. You may wish to add more quilting on the remaining part of the quilt. I used a small loop design on the white fabric and chose not to quilt the FPP section. Place into a 12â&#x20AC;? hoop, stretch gently and tighten. Trim off excess wadding and backing fabric to about 1â&#x20AC;? excess. With strong thread, sew a running stitch all the way around, tightening as you go to gather the excess fabric in at the back.

Bethany says... Isn't the rainbow effect of these prints lovely â&#x20AC;&#x201C; why not change the text to your favourite saying?

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We love

STYLE

Think

PINK This simple wool skirt is both a winter wardrobe staple and a great option for sewing couture tweed Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Find beautiful wool tweed and bouclĂŠ fabric at www.lintondirect.co.uk

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 1.4m of 112cm-wide fabric or 80cm (sizes 8-12) or 130cm (sizes 14-18) of 140cm-wide fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 60cm of 140cm-wide lining â&#x20AC;˘ 20cm concealed zip â&#x20AC;˘ 25x75cm medium-weight fusible interfacing â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: All seams are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. Raw edges are finished with a zigzag stitch or overlocker It is advisable to pin and tack outer pieces together before sewing together and try on for size in case adjustments are required, make up the garment in some calico or cheaper material beforehand and adjust pattern if required

HOW TO MAKE: Finish the raw long edges of all front and back pieces of the main fabric and lining before sewing. Pin then sew the centre front piece to the two side front pieces at the princess seams, leaving the lower section open as marked for the slit opening. (See Pic A.)

Repeat for the centre back pieces and side back pieces. Press all seams open. Insert a concealed zip into the right-hand size seam as worn. Align the end of the zipper tape with the raw waist edge. (See Pic B.) Sew the skirt together below the zipper. Press seam allowances open, then create the left side seam. Assemble the lining fronts and backs as per the outer but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t assemble the side seams yet. Using the front-facing pattern template, position at the top of the lining front piece. Pin then trim the lining so you only retain the lower lining piece. (See Pic C.) Repeat for the lining back piece and back facing piece. Pin the main fabric facing pieces RST at the RHS short edge. Sew together and press seam allowances open. Pin then sew the lining pieces to the facing main fabric pieces. Press facing away from lining. Top-stitch on RS close to seam line. Sew these adapted lining front and back pieces together at side seams RST, leaving open at the zip

LAYPLANS: 112cm-wide fabric 3

140cm-wide fabric

4 on fold

1.3m

FOLD

2 on fold

6 3

on fold

SELVEDGES

SIZING: BODY MEASUREMENTS

WAIST

65cm

70cm

75cm

80cm

85cm

90cm

HIPS

89cm

94cm

99cm

104cm

109cm

114cm

FINISHED LENGTH

49cm

50cm

51cm

52cm

53cm

54cm

MASTERCLASS

WONDER WOOL Whether you're making this gorgeous skirt, starting a little French jacket or making a classic coat, we've rounded up our top tips for handling couture tweed: Couture tweed is prone to fraying due to the open weave so try to handle the fabric as little as possible. Consider staystitching around each pattern piece to reduce this or interface/ underline each piece to keep it secure. If you're not lining your garment, consider trying Hong Kong bound seams, where you use bias or seam binding to encase the raw edges of the fabric. Prevent seams that are likely to stretch by using twill tape sewn into the allowance. Take care with your iron as couture tweed, isn't just made from wool. The exotic mix of yarn that gives these bold tweeds their signature look can include lurex, polyester

and acetate, as well natural fibre. Use a pressing cloth to avoid melting or sorching your makes. Multicoloured tweed can cause a dilemma when it comes to choosing a thread colour so lay out different threads to see which sinks into the fabric best. Also, try to avoid top-stitching and instead catch-stitch or blind hem your garments. When it comes to buttonholes, use double thread in your needle to create a robust buttonhole that won't fray too badly. As these luxury fabrics are made of various fibre, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no perfect way to look after them but it's generally best to dry clean only. If you're happy to try gentle hand washing, make sure to use a small amount of detergent and dry your garment flat. Store your garments on hangers, rather than keeping them folded in a drawer.

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section on right-hand side. (See Pic D.) Pin the lining to the skirt at the upper edge RST. Hand baste-stitch to hold. (See Pic E.) Sew all around and remove the basting. Notch the seam allowance at the top edge (unless your fabric frays excessively). Press facing/lining upwards. Under-stitch on the facing side (omit if your fabric is too bulky). Turn through the lining to the inside of the skirt and press. Pin the lining to each side of zipper. Hand-stitch to secure, ensuring the lining won't get caught in the teeth when in use. (See Pic F.)

On the main skirt only, fold one slit seam allowance over, RST. You need to begin the hem, sewing just across the seam allowance, 2.5cm up from the hem. Trim the corner of the seam allowance and turn to RS. Repeat for each hem corner. (See Pic G.) Finish the hem on the lower edge of the outer skirt by 2.5cm all around. Hem the lining all around so it sits approximately 1.5cm above the main skirt hemline. To finish, pin then handstitch the lining to the outer skirt at each slit section, leaving an approximately 1.5cm margin. (See Pic H.) Give your skirt a final press and it's ready to wear!

Fiona says... G

Fuse a 1.5cm-wide strip of interfacing to the zipper area to stabilise the fabric prior to sewing the zip in

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Atelier Saint Clare

Tambour Beading embroidery - Goldwork Classes, Embroidery kits, Bespoke monogram Manchester - Liverpool

www.ateliersaintclare.com de or s co f ic e 15 br Us VE f fa f LO o % 15 Good quality dressmaking and craft fabrics. Own line sewing pattern range.

www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk julia@bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 07791 966 917 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

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MASTERCLASS

STAY IN CHECK We've rounded up the expert advice you'll need for sewing checked fabric with success

Simplicity 8451 Mimi G dress and lined coat, with sew-along videos, Â£9.50 www.sewdirect.com

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Plaid, checks and tartan are all great winter staples. For a professional finish ensure your pattern matching is on point. Follow our top tips for sewing success BEFORE YOU START When buying plaid, checked or striped fabric, buy more than the pattern envelope suggests, as you will need extra fabric to be able to match the pattern. As a general rule, 1.5 metres extra should be enough, but a very large or uneven plaid may need more.

ASSESS YOUR PRINT Press your fabric and take note of the design – are there dominant stripes within the plaid? Where will they fall best on the body? Dominant stripes need further consideration – a hem may fall on a dominant stripe if you desire, but a curved hem cannot, so position curved hems accordingly.

CHECK YOUR PATTERN Familiarise yourself with the pattern pieces and consider where to place them on the fabric. Firstly, think about the centring of pieces. A centre front pattern piece for example will need to be placed precisely, so fold the fabric carefully to accommodate this. You should also consider whether to print match across a waist seam, princess seam or dart. It may be better to slash your pattern piece and pivot a dart from the bust to the waist (or vice versa), so it is out of the way, creating a more attractive effect. Next, double check the quantity you need for each pattern piece in relation to the amount of fabric you have as this may affect where you position the print across the body.

POSITIONING Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, considering all of the points above, and place matching notches on each pattern piece on matching parts of the plaid or stripe, taking care of straight grain lines etc. If you're matching a print across a sleeve, line

Why not

TRY?

up the underarm point of both the bodice pieces and sleeve at the same part of the print for the best match. It is not always possible to match at every part of the garment, for example curved seams, so keep that in mind as you work. Angled seams may require a little extra effort.

CUT SINGLE LAYER

Black and Grey Prince of Wales Check, £15.75 per metre www.dittofabrics.co.uk

We recommend cutting out the pattern pieces on a single layer of fabric, which can be easier in some ways regarding pattern matching, just remember to flip each pattern piece and cut it twice. (Alternatively, once you have folded your fabric carefully and evenly, pin it into position along all the edges, ensuring the plaid or stripe design cannot shift during cutting.) Consider folding over the side seam allowances as you'll be able to better match your print on these edges, as you'll see exactly where the designs intersect, but remember to add the seam allowance back on before you cut out or your garment won't fit and your print won't match. Work methodically, cutting in pairs where necessary. For example, cut the left back bodice then flip your pattern piece and cut the right back bodice. You can even use your cut piece to double check the mirror piece is positioned correctly. Lay the cut back bodice piece on top of the print so it 'disappears' into the design of the fabric. Then position your pattern piece so the centre back seam line matches. Pin in place then remove the previously cut piece before cutting its mirror image.

Colourful check fabric, 100% wool, £22 per metre www.fabricsforsale.co.uk

Turquoise tartan, £7.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk

Italian-made boucle wool-blend, £14.99 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk

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W t

We love

HOME

Turn on the

LIGHT

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 4 fat quarters Tana Lawn Petal and Bud (Fabric A), Mauve Plain (Fabric B), Lemon Yellow Plain (Fabric C) & Margaret Annie X Turquoise Pink (Fabric D) Alice Caroline Liberty fabric â&#x20AC;˘ tailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chalk/air-erasable marker â&#x20AC;˘ 20cm-diameter lampshademaking kit, containing: - 64.5x21cm self-adhesive PVC panel - utility rings with light fitting - plain ring - flexible double-sided tape - finishing tool

CUTTING: From Fabric A, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 8x30cm piece â&#x20AC;˘ 3 6x30cm pieces From Fabric B, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 4 6x30cm pieces From Fabric C, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 4 6x30cm pieces From Fabric D, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 8x30cm piece â&#x20AC;˘ 3 6x30cm pieces

NOTES: Use light to medium-weight cotton and woven fabric. Not suitable for stretch or heavy fabric such as wool

HOW TO MAKE: Decide on the order of your fabric and cut the fabric strips as shown in the cutting section. The 8x30cm strips will be the start and end strips. With RST, place the raw edges of the starting strip with a strip of Fabric B and pin. Sew together using a 1cm seam allowance. Repeat by sewing Fabric B to Fabric C. Continue with each fabric

Bring a burst of colour and a touch of Liberty luxury to your bedroom with this stylish lampshade. You can make a table or pendant shade with a simple kit Project SAM STERKEN

in order, finishing with the end fabric strip. Trim back each seam to 0.5cm. Press each seam allowance to the same side. Using tailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chalk or an air-erasable marker, draw a line 2cm in from each short end on the WS of the fabric. Lay the fabric face down on a clean flat surface and place the lampshade self-adhesive panel between the two lines with the paper backing face down. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy with the placement, peel approximately 5cm of the release paper at one side and match up the short edge with your drawn line. (See Pic A.)

Slowly remove the release paper from underneath, 10cm at a time, pressing into position firmly with the base of your hand. Continue until the whole panel is adhered to the fabric. The panel should sit just within the drawn lines. Flip the panel over and check for creases.

The strip seams should sit at right angles to the panel top edge. Using scissors or a craft knife, neatly cut away the surplus fabric close to the edge of the panel. Snap back the kiss-cut groove at the panel top and

Sam says...

Cut the fabric strips using a large quilting ruler and rotary cutter for an even finish

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Top tip

Pick fabrics from the same collection if you're unsure about mixing prints

Shopping list 20cm lampshade kit, ÂŁ8.33 from www.dannells.com

bottom and remove the strips carefully to avoid fraying your fabric. Apply double-sided tape to the short side, which is the starting fabric. This will be used to stick the seam. Remove the tape release paper. (See Pic B.) Apply double-sided tape so the ring sits in the centre of the tape. Press the tape down firmly around the frame. Repeat for the second ring and then remove the release paper. (See Pic C.) Starting at the untaped short edge, place the rings on the PVC as near to the edge as possible. Roll the rings

simultaneously, keeping them in line with the edge. If you go out of line simply pull back and try again. (See Pic D.) 10cm before reaching the taped edge, turn the shade to face you. Pull up the panel toward you so the panels meet, making sure the frame stays in place. When the short ends meet, gently push the seam closed from both sides. Turn it over so the seam is on a hard surface and apply firm pressure on the taped seam with your hand. (See Pic E.) Sit the shade on the plain ring and, where the

fabric overlaps at the seam, cut away a small square of fabric from the inside overlap. Also cut into the fabric where the struts in the frames are positioned. Cut the box away on the plain ring side. Pull the fabric margin down and press under the ring onto the sticky tape. Starting at the seam, use the sharp point of the finishing tool to tuck the fabric under the ring so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no longer visible. To tuck under any loose threads or fabric, sweep the tool

around the circumference of the ring until you are happy with it. Repeat on the opposite ring. (See Pic F.)

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We have a Great selection of Patchwork fabrics, templates, Books, haberdashery Unique quilt pattern designed by Quilters Dream Workshops and courses for all levels Free advice anytime we can also bring our shop to your group Coaches and Groups are welcome

We are on the First Floor (stair and ramp access plus stair lift)

UPSTAIRS at Units 403-407, The Commercial Centre, Picket Piece, Andover SP11 6RU t: 01264 324420/e: info@quiltersdream.co.uk www.quiltersdream.co.uk Open Tue-Fri 9.30-17.00 Sat 9.30-16.00

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

We caught up with prolific textile designer Sarah Campbell to find out more about her new fabric collection for Michael Miller Fabrics

Studio tour with

SARAH CAMPBELL www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

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Hi Sarah. How are you? What are you working on at the minute? Hello! Right now I’m working on some new products for my online shop, some new paintings for WestElm, and the next group for Michael Miller Fabrics. I’m also working on a talk I’m giving at Middlesex University about the creative mind and my next blog post. Oh, and making some new unique greeting cards from our vintage Liberty pieces for Dovecot Studios in Edinburgh!

Sarah

Can you tell us a little bit about your fifth collection for Michael Miller, Kashmir Garden? How did this come about? I’ve been working for Michael Miller Fabrics since 2014, and in fact I met Kathy Miller through a lovely introduction by Brandon Mably. I create a new collection for them every few months, and I love the fact that I can send them my designs, painted in repeat on paper – no hi-res files or Photoshop needed! I’ve been painting paisleys and flowers on and off for many years since my early days designing for Liberty, Sarah’s Kashmir and I had a strong instinct that they needed Garden designs to make a re-appearance, hence this latest collection ‘Kashmir Gardens’. In this group, See the full I particularly wanted to use the idea of the fabric range and design drama made by contrasting some find your nearest areas of full-colour motifs, with some using just monotones. I was also keen to and scale we’ve stockist, at make the lead design as a big border print, planned. The www.eqsuk.com referencing those wonderful decorative paintings are sent paisley shawls our great-grandmas might across the Atlantic have worn. to New York and from there to the printer in Asia Where did you find the inspiration who engraves and prints the for your designs? rotary screens. For me, I think inspiration is accumulative – one thing leads to another, though it’s true that sometimes What is your favourite one thing can lead on to quite a different direction! It thing about designing a does happen that a new idea can just suddenly land, fabric collection? apparently from nowhere but, on the whole, the seeds Putting a collection together gives are there. And of course, in the process of working me the exciting chance to tell a through ideas, new connections always occur – story. The group is a narrative both for me it’s quite an organic process. of colour and design. Each part of it complements and enhances the How did you take your initial idea and transform it whole as well as sitting alone quite into a fabric collection? happily. That could be said of a My work starts with the painted mark. I tend to mix marvellous quilt too, which is a Sarah uses screen printing a new palette of colours (I almost always use gouache) story made of many parts. to create vibrant accessories which gives me the initial ‘atmosphere’ of the group. and soft furnishings For this collection, I gathered together ideas around Will you be making anything the subject – colourful flowers sitting with monotone with Kashmir Garden yourself? paisleys – painting little sketches and ideas on one Yes, I’ve already made a couple of piece of paper to see how things might sit together. rather sweet dresses for some small people I know; I love After a discussion with the designer at MMF I that the bands of pattern on ‘Lacery’ are so effective on a painted the chosen patterns in repeat, at the size raglan sleeve, making a Frida Kahlo-style square neck

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Sarah teaches artist pattern making courses and workshops

Sarah's beautiful Liberty archive card

– an unexpected bonus! And we’re working on small accessories in this group too – the first samples in the denim/Wedgwood blue colourways are just coming through. They’ll be on my website soon. Do you plan to design any more fabric collections? Oh yes, we have an exciting new collection, ‘Table Talk’, in the pipeline right now – we’re just waiting to see the first strike-offs in fact – and the paintings for another are on my studio desk ready to go. Each collection is very different, giving sewing enthusiasts a wealth of colour, reference and subjectmatter to explore and play with.

Sarah’s little girls' dress using Kashmir Garden fabric

Each collection gives sewing enthusiasts a wealth of colour, reference and subject-matter to explore and play with

Finally, do you have any more exciting plans for the next few months you’d like to share with our readers? Apart from the new product range I mentioned, I’m excited to be working on some new hand-screen prints for decorative fabric and we have some gorgeous new scarves and cushions online now. I continue to teach short courses and workshops about patterns and how they work, and I give talks (quite often to quilting groups); those are great ways to meet, talk about patterns and encourage others – people really do love fabric and patterns! And above all, I’m learning so much in the process.

FIND OUT MORE Explore Sarah Campbell’s latest designs and events by visiting www.sarahcampbelldesigns.com Follow Sarah on social media: Twitter @SarahCamDesigns Instagram sarahcampbelldesigns

Pop colours feature heavily in Sarah's work

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ÂŁ1 wPoarttern 8. th s 99

Packed with stylish inspiration for your home & wardrobe Issue 28 on sale 6th December

Your 4-in-1 6953 dress PLUS:

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We love

STYLE

Into the

BLUE

This drapey cowl-neck top with lace yoke is perfect for moving from day to evening. We recommend using an overlocker to make your top, for a professional finish Project SARAH WADEY & FREYA GILBERT Crafty Sew & So

Shopping list Blue viscose elastane jersey, ÂŁ7 per metre www.craftysewandso.com

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 2.25m of 110cm-wide fabric or 1.6m of 150cm-wide fabric for the main body â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm of 110cm-wide or 150cm-wide fabric for the yoke â&#x20AC;˘ ballpoint needle for knitted/ jersey fabrics â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloadable from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Flip the lace overlay up to match raw edges of the neckline, armholes and shoulders and baste the lace to the back panel, stitching approximately 5mm from the raw edge. (See Pic C.) Finish the back neckline by turning in 1cm to the inside and top stitching with a stretch stitch (3-step NOTES: zigzag). (See Pic D and E.) Jersey stretch fabrics only. Finish the curves The pattern is ideal for slinky raw edge of the cowl jerseys including viscose and neckline facing. lightweight cotton-elastane mixes. To prevent stretching Use stretch lace, sequin mesh out, stay-stitch the front or other stretchy fancy fabrics neckline edge. for the yoke With RST, join the All seam allowances are 1cm neckline facing to the unless stated otherwise neckline. (See Pic F.) We recommend using an Stitch two rows of overlocker to join the seams and gathering stitches at each a narrow zigzag stitch or twin shoulder on the front panel. Match the edges of the needle to finish the hems front and back shoulders HOW TO MAKE: and gather the front to fit Lay the lace yolk overlay into the back. (See Pic G-I.) onto the back panel with RST Stitch the shoulder seam. Insert the sleeve on and with the neckline of the the flat, matching the yolk facing away from notches and easing the neckline of the the curves to main panel. fit together. Match the (See Pic J.) raw straight Join the edge of Use a chalk marker to side seams the yolk mark the back of each of the body with the and sleeves. notches panel to help put (See Pic K.) in the them together in the To hem the back panel. correct order sleeves and the (See Pic A.) body, turn 1.5cm Stitch the yolk to the inside and onto the back panel top-stitch using a twin using a stretch stitch with needle or 3-step zigzag a 1cm seam allowance. stitch. (See Pic L.) (See Pic B.)

Top tip

SIZING:

LAYPLAN: 110cm-wide fabric

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

BUST

WAIST

HIP

66cm

90cm

71cm

95cm

76cm

100cm

81cm

105cm

87cm

110cm

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MASTERCLASS G

STRETCH

STITCH SETTINGS

Test out your stitch settings on a double scrap of fabric before you start sewing your garment. Use a stretch or ballpoint needle, 60/8 for very lightweight fabric, 75/11 for light to mediumweight jersey. To help stop the fabric stretching out as you sew, lower the presser foot pressure if your machine lets you.

WALKING FEET

A walking foot or dual-feed foot is also helpful – these attachments ensure both layers of fabric are fed through the machine at the same speed so one doesn’t stretch out and create wobbly seams. Try not to let the fabric dangle off the table while you’re sewing. Use an extension table if your machine comes with one or simply hold the fabric alongside your machine.

FINISHING SEAM ALLOWANCES There’s usually no need to finish seam allowances on knit fabric, as it won’t fray. However, you might want to finish them to strengthen or neaten them up. If you don’t have an overlocker (serger), you can finish them with a zigzag stitch. Trim the seam allowances to about half their width first. An overedge foot will make it easier to position the zigzag in the right place, and will stop the raw edge from rolling up. Line up the raw edge of the fabric with the guide on the foot so the right-hand side of the zigzag lands exactly on the edge. If this method squishes up the fabric edges, you can zigzag with a regular presser foot about 5mm (¼”) away from the seam line before trimming the seam allowances.

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READERS'

Suernsdnaupss! yo AKE OUR STAR M EA WILL RECEIV

£25

Get in touch letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS!

What is your favourite evening fabric?

Star make

A Satin, 8% B Velvet, 68%

Charmaine

We love that Charmaine is already getting set for Christmas with this adorable Father Christmas cone from issue 59. Great job, Charmaine!

C Chiffon, 16% D Sequins, 8%

A 8%

B 68%

Beatrice

C 16% D 8%

How fabulous is Beatrice’s version of the Lorna skirt from issue 58 – the perfect winter staple! Beatrice said: “I loved sewing it. It came together very easily. It’s great to practise pattern matching as it only has four main pieces. The fabric is a wool blend tartan from Textile Express. Keep creating these wonderful patterns and the magazine.”

Emily

Emily has made a lovely version of the Threadcount 16 07 shirt dress that wa s an exclusive patte rn with issue 27.

Dani

Dani looks lovely in her version of the Butterick Retro B6318 pattern. We love the fabric she has chosen.

Maggy

Maggy said: “This is my Simple Sew Bella dress, ready for the autumn. The pattern was free with Love Sewing issue 9. It's an easy make and very comfortable to wear.” – Great job, Maggy!

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BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS

Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto, £30.99, Palmer/Pletsch Associates

Marta

Pati

Hi Pati and Marta! You’ve been helping people create great-fitting clothes for 40 years – do you find sewists still have the same issues with fit? P: Our goal has been to make fitting easier, which is why over the years we started tissue-fitting and then, instead of making a muslin to alter, we altered the tissue. So in a way, the tissue became the muslin. Once the tissue is altered and looks good, we cut it out in fabric so you can fit the other half of your body. During our workshops we get to see how amazingly good the fit is in the fabric after tissue-fitting. Our challenge is making alteration techniques understandable and well explained, and we finally created an essential ‘order of fitting’ that must be followed for trousers or tops to be successful. M: We hope that by teaching how to fit, sewists will understand that it is part of the whole sewing process – 25% of the time sewing should be devoted to fitting. Your latest book The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting is a brilliant resource for anyone sewing their own clothes. What has inspired it? P: Marta and I wrote Fit For Real People 20 years ago, after over 30 years of developing our tissue-fitting system. We continued teaching workshops and learning, then came up with new and improved techniques and ways of teaching to fit – it was time. My daughter Melissa Watson, also a designer for McCall’s, stepped in as designer of the book. She was 30 at the time and wanted the book to relate to young sewists. Over 20 of our sewing teachers read and offered edits that make it really the best fit book to date, I think. M: The more workshops we taught the

Fitting using the unique Palmer/ Pletsch tissue-fitting method more we learned and wanted to make the art easier to follow. How does your tissue-fitting method differ from creating a traditional muslin toile? P: We use tissue instead of muslin. In former times, you would see people trying on a tissue fit in sewing books, even during the 1920s. They would check lengths and proportions, then cut it out in muslin and slash and spread the muslin to fit. It is pretty hard to use the wiggly muslin for a pattern, but I guess that is what they did. When you alter tissue, it is soft like fabric, but maintains a grainline. M: Tissue is easy to drape and keeps the grain on grid. Do you find it easiest fitting for yourself or other people? P: I find it easy to do both. It is always great for a beginner to take a class and have an instructor help determine the changes they need and teach them how to do it. We have teachers all over the world who have trained with us and

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Katharina Otani from Tokyo attended the Palmer/Pletsch Jeans Workshop and loves her new jeans made using the McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch 5894 pattern are based everywhere from the UK to Australia. M: I like fitting others. I make the same alterations for all patterns. What were the most challenging and rewarding parts of putting this book together? P: Making it clearly understandable. We are really good at technical books, but they can be overwhelmingly timeconsuming to get right. I do the writing for the books and co-author. Marta is a good Technical Editor and I call her our R&D department because she has invented so many techniques or come up with better instructions. If we publish another author, we work very closely with them on the writing, layout, and art. We have an amazing Technical Artist. If the rough art I send her doesn’t make sense to her, she will sew up the technique to

Helen has joined the team as a new workshop instructor and is currently writing a jeans fitting and sewing book for Palmer/Pletsch

improve it. Now that we print full-colour books, we are able to use different colours for different techniques. To buy the right size, ignore the size of your bust and use the high bust measurement to get the right chest fit, then alter for a full bust. M: It is always wonderful to see ladies find fit success. We also hope they will enjoy the history of how we decided to and learned to tissue-fit at the beginning of the book. It has been an over 40-year journey. Finally, do you have any exciting plans for next year, or perhaps some sewing resolutions for 2019 you’d like to share? P: Recently the shop we held our workshops in for over 25 years closed, so right now we are looking for a great new location for our two, four and five-day workshops for 2019. We will include the locations on the website at the beginning of 2019. We already have registrations, so we need to act quickly on this. Many stores have reached out to us to teach in their location and we are very greatful for this. M: I really want to learn how to use the computer better, it is still a constant battle for me! P: This is true, but Marta is a master at machine embroidery, even though she can’t find the files she’s saved!

SHARP SHIRTS

Sewing Shirts with a Perfect Fit by David Page Coffin shares how to sew well-fitted shirts, from collar to cuff. Instructions are beautifully explained and clear with lots of customising options for men and women. Find your copy for £17.99 at www.quartoknows.com

FASHION FORWARD

Celebrate the height of Parisian haute couture, with Christian Dior: History and Modernity 1947-1957. Written by leading fashion journalist Alexandra Palmer, this lavishly illustrated volume explores some of Dior’s most iconic designs and the story behind them. Available for £39.95 at www.hirmerverlag.de/uk

PIN-UP ICONS

Pati and daughter Melissa practise fitting

You can never have too many pincushions, especially when they’re handmade! Carrie Nelson’s Pin Pals shows how to make a whopping 40 patchwork pincushions for your sewing room. Pick up your copy for £21.99 at www.roundhousegroup.co.uk/shop

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SWATCH SELECTOR

Scandi Style Contemporary, calming and oh so cosy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t resist a touch of Scandinavian chic style

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks: The Only Quilt Block Compendium You'll Ever Need and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

candinavian influence is everywhere at the moment, including fabric design. The combination of simple organic shapes with landscape-inspired colours creates a look that fits effortlessly into modern interiors and is easy to wear. As we edge into the festive period, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve added some subtle seasonal prints, like Luminous with its flickering candles, alongside larger-scale abstract designs to boost the Scandi vibe. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve also included a mix of substrates with lots of linen/cotton blend fabric with printed or yarn dye options. These are the perfect weight for making cushions, bags or structured clothing styles; plus the linen adds a little texture too. There is a hint of sparkle in the metallic stars print from Makower UK to bring some much-needed light as we cosy up for winter. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve chosen the Arkansas Snowflake quilt block to complement the clean Scandi style. This version is constructed using the foundation paper-piecing method. www.sewhooked.com/2011/08/19/arkansas-snowflake

Shopping list

Mint Cozy Luminous by Rashida Coleman-Hale for Cotton and Steel, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ www.fabrichq.co.uk Navy Check Essex Linen Classic Wovens by Robert Kaufman, 55% linen, 45% cotton, ÂŁ4.10 per FQ www.eternalmaker.com Reindeer Taupe Oxford Cloth by Sevenberry, canvas weight cotton, ÂŁ4.50 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk Stars in White Modern Metallic Christmas by Makower UK, ÂŁ3.20 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk Bubble Mint Echino by Kokka, 45% linen, 55% cotton, ÂŁ5.50 per FQ www.eternalmaker.com Imagined Landscapes Ariel View in Sand by Jen Hewett for Cotton and Steel, ÂŁ3.75 per FQ www.fabrichq.co.uk White Natural Multifaceted Tayutou by Fabrica Uka for Kokka, 45% linen, 55% cotton, ÂŁ5.25 per FQ www.eternalmaker.com Delaunay in Tangerine Petit Motif 3, ÂŁ2.75 per FQ www.higgsandhiggs.com

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Request your free fabric catalogue today!

Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing.co.uk

Please visit our NEW online shop! Ample free parking Very close to picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and workshops Also training for sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines, Premier Plus Software & all makes of overlockers Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays

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workshops SEW IN THE CITY Sheffield

Sew in the City sells quality, branded, contemporary fabric as well as offering a range of workshops for all abilities with specialist, experienced tutors. 0114 2759502 www.sewinthecity.co.uk

8TH DECEMBER ‘Peak’ T-shirt creation with Wendy Ward Come and create either a T-shirt or dress with best-selling author, Wendy Ward. Workshop fee includes lunch and a signed copy of Beginners Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics (CICO Books, £12.99) Cost: £65

FABRICATE

Liversedge, West Yorkshire This modern fabric and haberdashery shop sells a whole manner of high-quality designer fabric and offers workshops to suit everyone; from the complete beginner to the more experienced sewists. 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk www.fabricateshop.co.uk

9TH DECEMBER Infinity scarf creation with Wendy Ward Use up that stash to create the perfect gift or winter warmer with best-selling author, Wendy Ward. Cost: £25

12TH & 13TH JANUARY

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

20TH JANUARY Curved piecing – the ‘Footloose’ quilt with Jenny of Papper, Sax, Sten Create a quilt using a triple Drunkard’s Path block. Jenny will guide you through her signature curves using her no-pin technique and custom templates. Cost: £50

Corsetry creation weekend Create a corset with lingerie designer Lou Watson. Suitable for those interested in costume and bridal/evening wear making. Lunch is included. Cost: £120

19TH & 26TH JANUARY (2 X 4.5 HOUR SESSIONS)

9TH & 23RD FEBRUARY (2 X 6 HOUR SESSIONS)

Beginners dressmaking

Intermediate dressmaking

In this workshop, you will learn basic dressmaking skills and go away with a Tilly and the Buttons Cleo Dungaree Dress or Stevie Tunic/Top. Everything is included, even a choice of gorgeous fabric. Cost: £80

Choose from a range of indie sewing patterns to create your own shirt, shirt dress or *gasp* pair of jeans and really advance your sewing skills. Everything is included, as well as a choice of fabric. (Excludes gin.) Cost: £125

16TH, 23RD, 30TH JANUARY & 6TH FEBRUARY (4 X 2.5 HOUR SESSIONS) Pattern drafting workshop During this course, you will make your own pattern blocks for a bodice and sleeve and skirt or trousers to give you a good framework for creating your own designs. Unleash your inner fashion designer! Cost: £75-£90

20TH & 27TH FEBRUARY (2 X 3 HOUR SESSIONS) Overlocking for beginners Dust off that overlocker you’ve never taken out of the box and learn the basics of overlocking. The workshop includes making your own jersey skirt. You’ll arrive scared, you’ll leave happy! Cost: £60

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6TH JANUARY Patchwork sewing machine storage mat Treat your beloved sewing machine to a patchwork sewing mat with front pockets, enabling you to store your most trusty sewing tools. It can also be extended and used as a quick dust cover for times when your machine is not in use. Cost: £39

THE SEW STUDIO Dunfermline, Fife

The Sew Studio is a beautiful high-street fabric store in Dunfermline, Scotland. It stocks a great range of fabric for your patchwork, dressmaking and homeware projects. It runs studio classes in a positive social environment where you can escape from the world and focus on the joy of dressmaking, patchwork, knitting, crochet and more! 01383 621894 create@thesewstudio.co.uk www.thesewstudio.co.uk

MINISTRY OF CRAFT Manchester

Ministry of Craft runs a variety of workshops led by expert tutors in venues across Manchester, which include Fred Aldous in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, Manchester Craft and Design Centre and the Craft Café in Chorlton. 07740 860390 info@ministryofcraft.co.uk www.ministryofcraft.co.uk

8TH DECEMBER Sew your own cosy coatigan at Fred Aldous This super-stylish garment is deceptively quick and easy to make. Your friends will be astonished to learn that this one-of-akind jacket was sewn by your own fair hands. Cost: £47.50

BEGINNING 12TH JANUARY (EVERY TWO WEEKS) Carry on quilting – Liberty sampler You’ll learn lots of new techniques to cut, piece together, use templates, foundation paper-piece, appliqué and more. Perfect for those who are new to patchwork and improvers too. You’ll have the option of making either a bed runner or a much larger double-bed quilt. As an extraspecial treat, workshop attendees get 20% off any Liberty fabric in store. Cost: £79

5TH JANUARY Clothing alterations at Bamber Sewing Machines Learn to sew two different types of hem, create darts and make your own alterations while saving money at the same time. Practise hems and altering lengths on a trouser leg and then learn how to alter the width of shirts, tops and dresses by adding darts. You’ll discover the secrets of how to take perfect measurements and pick up some tricks of the trade from our seasoned alterations professional Sam Moylan. Cost: £32.50

19TH JANUARY Get creative – baby accessories Join us for the day in our inspiring studio, making fun and functional baby accessories. You’ll learn to sew the perfect new baby gifts for your baby or for someone special. You will never have to buy a new baby gift as we guarantee you will make these again and again! Cost: £39

BEGINNING 27TH FEBRUARY WEEKLY (FOUR SESSIONS) Carry on quilting – easy Bargello quilt If you’re an avid stitcher or an aspiring quilter and you’re ready for a new project, then this one is for you! Over four weeks you’ll learn how to use a pre-cut jelly roll to piece together your own Bargello-style patchwork top. You will receive advice and guidance to then go on to finish the piece as a throw, bedspread or wall hanging. Cost: £59

12TH JANUARY Pattern cutting: introduction to bodice fitting at Bamber Sewing Machines Do you have a classic hourglass figure? Are you the same dress size in every shop? Nope, nor us. Now you can save time (and money) in the shops and make your own bodice pattern, fitted to your very own measurements. What’s more, we’ll show you how to adapt your bodice block to create a sewing pattern for a head-turning top. Cost: £59

5TH JANUARY Clone your closet at Bamber Sewing Machines You know that item in your wardrobe – the one you wear every day, that is so comfortable and you wish you’d have bought three? Or the one that has seen better days and you’re feeling anxious about its inevitable demise? Well, with this workshop you can now you can clone your clothing. Cost: £49.50

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SAVE 20%

& FREE P&P OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER - ON ALL FABRICS WITH CODE: LS61 In order to take advantage of this exclusive offer just go to www.fabricsforsale.co.uk to see beautiful premium and designer fabrics for clothing, upholstery and craft projects and use the exclusive code to save now. Be quick this offer expires 27th December 2018.

Zebra Stripes or Dalmatian Spots Freehand Machine Embroidery Workshop

The greatest selection of vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses to 1970s jumpsuits.

Worldwide Shipping - Credit Cards Welcome

www.sovintagepatterns.com

19th January 2019

Call 07815053716 or book your space at www.artseacraftsea.com

use coupon: LOVESEW to save 25%

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ASK THE EXPERTS

Couture guide to hidden button plackets

Alison Smith MBE shares her expert tips for adding a hidden placket to a blouse or shirt that cleverly hides the buttons from view!

Relaxed Washed Silk Blouse, ÂŁ140 www.purecollection.com

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Adding a hidden button placket can give a polished finish to a blouse or shirt and up your skills at the same time. Alison shows you how! A hidden button placket is often featured on coats, however you can add one to most garments that feature a front-button closure. The hidden button placket does just what it says, it hides the buttons so that the centre of the garment has a clean, streamlined look. This feature is best added to a garment that has a front facing, rather than a centre front, band. The button placket is cut as an extension to the front of the garment, just through the button area, and is approximately twice the diameter of the button. It is only on the righthand side of the garment as worn, as the buttons are on the left-hand side.

Your fabric is currently right sides together. Peel back the top layer of fabric to reveal the seam with a split in it and press this flat. The seam should be flat, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry at the moment which way it lies.

Take the piece of fabric that is the facing and fold it back into place so that the stitching line is on the edge and the placket extension is tucked inside. Press again.

Why not try on the Sarah Shirt? PDF pattern ÂŁ9.50 www.byhandlondon.com Once you are happy with your buttonholes, slash through them. The buttons will be stitched to the left-hand front as worn and, once done up, they are invisible!

HOW TO MAKE:

On the right-hand front, place the garment front and front facing right sides together. Stitch down the front and around the button extension, making sure that you turn the corners accurately.

Trim back the facing side of the seam to half its width and remove the surplus fabric from the corners. You will need to snip right through the fabric to almost the stitching line to avoid the placket being bulky when turned and pressed.

This is the tricky bit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; creating the buttonholes that sit inside the placket. This process will vary depending on your sewing machine and its buttonhole foot. My machine has a long foot with an extension the button sits into. If your machine has a foot like this you need to make sure that the foot and its sensor do not get stuck in the fabric. Mark the buttonhole positions and open at the placket as much as you can, especially at each end, flatten it with your fingers and stitch the buttonholes through one layer of fabric only. Just make sure the buttonholes do not come too close to either the top or bottom of the placket.

Give this technique a try; I would advise you to practise first on some scrap fabric before attempting it on your garment. Once finished, sit back and admire your gorgeous buttonhole!

ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns. You can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site, at www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

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We love KIDS

Simply

MAGIC This charming unicorn softie would be a great Christmas present and sews up in no time! Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Stylecraft Merry Go Round in Strawberry, Â£3.89 per 100g ball www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

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MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

â&#x20AC;˘ 2 pieces of fleece fabric or 30x40cm felt in pale pink â&#x20AC;˘ 25g ball rainbow or multicoloured DK yarn â&#x20AC;˘ 250g toy stuffing â&#x20AC;˘ 30x10cm silver fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 10x75cm bonding web â&#x20AC;˘ 10cm square of felt in bright pink â&#x20AC;˘ 20x10cm felt in lilac â&#x20AC;˘ embroidery floss in black, silver & lilac â&#x20AC;˘ masking tape â&#x20AC;˘ embroidery needle â&#x20AC;˘ invisible marker pen â&#x20AC;˘ 20x30cm piece of cardboard â&#x20AC;˘ poking tool â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Wind yarn around the short side of the cardboard approximately 40 times, covering a 10cm area. Secure masking tape across the width of the yarn windings at the centre on both sides. Slide the fringe off the card and trim down the centre of the masking tape. Use one piece for the mane. Place to one side. (See pics A and B.) Wind yarn around the long side of the cardboard again approximately 25 times. Slide off and tie at one end to secure yarn strands together with a single strand. Cut the yarn loops. Place to one side. Place two layers of main fabric RST on a flat surface. Place the pony template on to the fabric and draw the outline around with a marker pen (this is your sewing line). Pin all around. Cut 1cm away from the marker line all around. Insert the mane fringe piece on the RS of one body piece in position as shown

CUTTING: â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

2 outer ears in bright pink felt 2 inner ears in lilac felt 8 hoof pieces in lilac felt 1 star in silver fabric 1 horn in silver fabric & interfacing

NOTES: Use a 0.5cm seam allowance. Finished size is approximately 37x27cm

on the template with yarn extending towards body. Re-pin. (See Pic C.) Repeat for tail in position as shown on the template. (See Pic D.) Tack-stitch to hold all around. Sew, following the outline all around leaving a 5cm approximately opening at the back end of the pony. Take care not to sew the mane and tail yarns as you go. Remove tacking. Notch the seam allowances all around and snip into the seam allowance at the top between each of the legs. (See Pic E.) Turn the body inside out through the opening, pushing out all the legs and far corners gently with a poking tool. Stuff your unicorn, inserting a little at a time with toy filling. Stuff the legs first, then head and finally the body section pushing in to the extremities with a poking tool. When you are happy that your unicorn is fully stuffed,

stitch the opening by hand with a slip stitch. Sew two hoof pieces together at the curved edge with a 4mm seam allowance. Turn to RS. Push out the seamline. Push onto leg, pin, hand-stitch at the top edge. (See Pic F.) Bond the inner ear to the outer ear with bonding web. Fold the ear piece in half widthways. Stitch by hand to the head with floss. Interface the silver horn and fold over by 4mm at lower curved edge. Press. Fold the piece in half, RST. Stitch with a 4mm seam allowance. Turn RS out. Push out the pointed tip, stuff then handstitch with the floss in position. Sew the eyes, nose and mouth with a small chain stitch, with two strands pulled from the black embroidery thread, marking out first with an invisible marker pen. Add a star to each side of body using bonding web. Handstitch with floss. Voila! Your new friend is finished.

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice. Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration. We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines. Creative free-machine embroidery workshops with Claire Muir. We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display. We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops. Free customer car park.

www.franknutt.co.uk

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Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the end-of-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

PLACE ON FOLD LINE This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE) DARTS Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

NOTCHES Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral-print top with all the flowers upside down.

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Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT) Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST.

LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK) Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

13/11/2018 16:49

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33â&#x20AC;?

38â&#x20AC;?

High bust measurement

32â&#x20AC;?

35â&#x20AC;?

Difference

1â&#x20AC;?

3â&#x20AC;?

Adjustment

1/2â&#x20AC;? SBA = half the difference

11/2â&#x20AC;? FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position. Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount. The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

apex

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C) B

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point. Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Âźâ&#x20AC;? adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills. Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

lap

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E)

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

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Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Âź-Â˝â&#x20AC;? adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together. Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

13/11/2018 16:49

ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS Zigzag finish

(WS)

Pinking shears finish

Topstitched finish

(WS)

French seam

first seam allowance

Overlocker finish

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

(WS)

Hong Kong finish fold over then stitch in the ditch

bias tape

stitch seam allowance only

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

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ULTIMATE EMBROIDERY GUIDE BACKSTITCH

FEATHER STITCH

BLANKET STITCH

COUCH STITCH

CROSS STITCH

FISHBONE STITCH B

FRENCH KNOTS

E D

K G

LADDER STITCH

LONG AND SHORT STITCH

RUNNING STITCH

SATIN STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCH AKA SEED STITCH

SPLIT STITCH

B 1 2

3 D

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All things fabric...where happiness is handmade Linens, Jerseys, Cottons, Canvas, Viscose & more

For dressmaking, crafts and interiors www.bobbobbobbin.co.uk E: info@ bobbobbobbin.co.uk T: 01803 313992 (for telephone orders)

15% off with code SEW15

Beautiful fabrics, modern patterns and new sewing workshops for beginners

64 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

WIN a retreat with Gartmore House!

Whisk yourself away to a fabulous crafty retreat by entering this competition to win an activity holiday with Gartmore House! Nestled within the glorious grounds of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, Gartmore House is a veritable crafting Mecca where you can indulge in some quality sewing time and partake in workshops led by expert tutors. You’ll stay in the spectacular country house on the 18th century property that is afforded beautiful scenery across its peaceful 75 acres of private land.

Worth

£500!

One lucky reader will win a voucher they can use to purchase one of any five-night activity breaks. There is a diverse programme of tailored retreats to choose from including sewing, lacing, patchwork and quilting, felting and more. This a real treat and not to be missed! To be in with a chance of winning this incredible prize, head over to Love Sewing’s website and add your details to the entry form on the competitions page, www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/category/competitions For more information about the exciting programme of activity holidays on offer, visit www.gartmoreestate. com/gartmore-house/activity-holidays The winner will be notified by email when the competition closes on 3rd January 2019. Voucher valid until 31st December 2019 (excluding Christmas and Hogmanay) and will be subject to availability. Travel not included.

Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65

m ld

Exclusive discounts SAVE 15% on fabric at Bobbins and Buttons with code LOVE15. Offer valid until 3rd January. Visit www.bobbinsbuttons.co.uk

SAVE 20% on jersey at Fabricate, using the code JERSEY20. See page 86 for how to claim. SAVE 20% on Christmas fabrics at Rooftop Fabrics with the code LS20. See page 10 for how to claim.

WIN A BUNDLE

SAVE 20% on The Makery-branded products

OF VLIESELINE TAPES Four lucky readers will win a bundle of Vlieseline dressmaking tapes that will really help you to achieve a professional finish. Among the bundle of goodies will be Vlieseline’s Hot Spots – a thermoplastic adhesive that can be used for transferring designs on textiles and also constructing soft hems. You’ll also win Framilastic tape, which is ideal for shape retention on parts of stretch fabric and the really useful Perfect Hem tape. To find out more about Vlieseline products and for how-to instructions and demonstrations, please visit www.vlieseline.com. For stockist information, contact Lady Sew and Sew on 01491 572 528 or visit www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

using the code MAKERY20. See page 23 for how to claim.

SAVE 25% on Simple Sew patterns with code LOVE25SEWING. See page 84 for how to claim.

Over £55! of prizes! WIN A THREAD PACK FROM GÜTERMANN It’s important to use the best-quality tools for your projects and these 100% mercerised premium Egyptian cotton threads will not disappoint. Two lucky readers will win a 20x100m reel thread pack which includes a glorious catalogue of colours that will harmonise nicely with a range of fabric. The thread is resilient with a natural sheen and a pleasantly soft grip that ensures beautifully smooth seams. Gütermann products are available nationwide in fabric, craft and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact Gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk or call 01453 883581

WIN AN AGF COLORMASTER

WIN A SEWING BAG BUNDLE

HALF YARD COLLECTORS SET

Worth over

£65!

Store and transport your precious sewing items in style and comfort with these durable sewing bags from Hobby Gift. One lucky reader will win a stylish sewing bag duo made up of a spacious, PVC sewing bag with sturdy handles, and a pretty sewing box for storing all your haberdashery in. Both bags feature an adorable dog design and are sure to brighten up your sewing space. For stockist information, contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk or call 01453 883581

66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

You can never have too many pretty fabrics in your sewing room and we just adore these collectors sets from AGF. One lucky reader will win a box of 10 half yard, 100% premium cotton fabric pieces in Emerald Stone that would be perfect for a variety of quick and easy makes. To browse the full ColorMaster range and to find a stockist near you, visit www.hantexonline. co.uk

Worth over

£80!

WIN A BUNDLE OF ITEMS

FROM KORBOND

Worth over

£80!

Love Sewing has teamed up with leading haberdashery provider Korbond to offer one lucky reader the chance to win a bundle of haberdashery items and a classy herringbone print sewing basket! You’ll win some essential dressmaking tools to help with the construction and care of your garments and a twin lid sewing basket to store them in. Find out more about the extensive range of craft products on offer by visiting sew.korbond.co.uk

WIN A BUNDLE OF

WIN A PATTERN BUNDLE FROM SEWBOX If you need a little inspiration for your next make, why not enter this competition to win a pattern bundle from Sewbox? The team is passionate about providing its customers with beautiful fabric and patterns from leading designers. One lucky reader can expand their home-sewn wardrobe by whipping up garments with these five fabulous patterns which include Tilly and the Buttons Martha Dress, BY HAND London Sophia Dress and the Sewaholic Rae Skirt. To see the extensive range of sewing goodies stocked by Sewbox, visit www.sewbox.co.uk

ITEMS FROM PRYM

We’ve partnered up with the wonderful team at Prym to offer one lucky reader an incredible bundle of sewing goodies! You’ll win a storage box that has three tiers so you can keep all your sewing tools organised and stored away safely. You’ll also win a mini steam iron, complete with a silicone iron rest and ironing cloth to protect your clothes while pressing. To see more of the fabulous craft products from Prym, visit www.prym.com

Worth

£100!

WIN AN APPLIQUÉ

HOOP KIT FROM CORINNE LAPIERRE Deck out your sewing space with these fabulous appliqué hoops from Corinne Lapierre. We’re offering six readers the chance to win the colourful felt cactus appliqué hoop kit or the adorable felt llama appliqué hoop kit. Each kit contains everything you need to complete your richly-decorative hoop including high quality wool mix felt, DMC thread and sequins. The kit is suitable for all skill levels. Find out more about Corinne Lapierre products by visiting www.corinnelapierre.com

WIN A FAT QUARTER BAG Do you have an ever-growing pile of fat quarters in need of some organisation? We hear you. We have four green PVC fat quarter bags to give away! The bag is spacious and includes two removable compartment separators so you can store your small fabric pieces alongside your sewing tools. What’s more, the bag has a transparent front so you can keep your pretty prints on display!

to win HOW TO ENTER

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details and tick the prizes you would like to win, at

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/ category/competitions We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy

to win

Closing date: 3rd January 2019. The competition is operated by Practical Publishing International Ltd. For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions

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Keep calm and

We love HOME

PRESS ON Keep your iron safely stored in this eye-catching case with nifty carry handle Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

Shopping list

Esoterra by Katarina Roccella and Prisma Elements by Art Gallery Fabrics. To find your nearest stockist, visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 40cm dark floral fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 40cm co-ordinating lining fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 40cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm Vlieseline Style-vil foam interfacing â&#x20AC;˘ black Kam Snap â&#x20AC;˘ 78cm black metal zipper â&#x20AC;˘ 20cm black & white bakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twine â&#x20AC;˘ 55cm 4cm-wide black webbing â&#x20AC;˘ tan denim thread â&#x20AC;˘ Hemline Fray Stopper â&#x20AC;˘ 10x5cm scrap faux tan leather (optional) â&#x20AC;˘ Ladies and Gentleman Tim Holtz stamp (optional) â&#x20AC;˘ Jet Black Ranger Archival ink (optional) â&#x20AC;˘ template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Seam allowances are 0.5cm throughout unless otherwise stated

CUTTING: From floral fabric, cut: 80x13cm for side 80x6cm strip for side From lining fabric, cut: 80x13cm for side 80x6cm strip for side

HOW TO MAKE: To make the handle, trim the webbing and treat both ends with the Fray Stopper. Make a piece of straight binding 66cm long and 3cm finished width using the dark floral fabric. Attach this straight binding to the middle of the webbing with co-ordinating thread. (See Pic A.) Allow the end of the binding to extend under each end. Keep it in place for now with a dab of fabric glue. Make 1.8m of bias binding from the lining fabric. Cut 3.5cm-wide strips on the bias and then join them together to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press. Fold the raw edges in and press them too. You can use a bias tape maker to make this easier.

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Straight binding is made using the same principle but the original strip cut is made on the straight of the grain. Take the zipper and fold the end tapes (opening end) to the side and secure with a stay stitch. Use the template to cut a lid top and a base from the floral fabric. Cut two pieces of H630 and fuse them to the wrong side of both of the floral pieces. Lay them both onto a piece of larger Style-Vil and attach with a basting stitch. (See Pic C.) Cut the two pieces out. Trim the foam right back to the basting stitch line with a sharp pair of scissors. Cut two 23x6cm pieces of lining fabric and fuse H630 to the wrong side. Attach to the wrong side of both the base and lid and trim. For the sides, interface the floral pieces on the wrong side with H630. Lay both floral pieces onto a piece of Style-Vil foam (the foam needs to be slightly larger) and attach with a basting stitch. Make a zipper sandwich by laying the zip along the top edge of the floral outer with the open end to the left-hand side. Lay the lining onto this with the right sides together and pin, clip or baste. Position the zip so that it is 1.5cm away from the edge of the outer and lining panels on the opening end and right on the edge of the panels at the closed end. Sew the seam along and then flip the pieces over so that the zip is exposed and top-stitch right along. Repeat for the other two pieces on the other side of the zip. (See Pic D.) Stabilise the edges of the layers with a basting stitch. The back hinge is made from a piece of Style-Vil foam, measuring 19cm high x 5cm wide. Cut 19x6.5cm piece of floral fabric and interface the wrong side of it with H63. Lay the foam interfacing

Shopping list

For Vlieseline product, visit www.six-penny.com and www.ladysewandsew.co.uk To find your local GĂźtermann thread stockist, contact Gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

onto the interfaced floral outer and with RST, pin them fabric and centre it well on the to one end. Sew the seam sides. Attach with a narrow down. (See Pic F.) On the other side of the seam, gently stretching the hinge piece, repeat this but fabric to fit the foam. Cut a 19x6.5cm this time, do not sew the piece of lining on. To complete lining fabric. the lining, fold it Before you fit over so that it the hinge, fit covers the the handle. raw edge and Measure in the end of The handle is 4cm wide 23cm from the zipper so if you are choosing an each raw end on that side. alternative stamp, ensure and site the Hand-stitch that it fits onto your piece handle in the in place. (See of faux leather centre of the Pic G.) Pin the bottom portion of completed side to the outer. Attach with the base with the RS facing. a topstitch going through Sew around, trim the seam all layers. (See Pic E.) Attach the hinge piece at and then bind with the bias the back by taking the piece binding. (See Pic H.) of lining and the interfaced Repeat this for the lid top.

Top tip!

Tie a piece of bakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twine through the zipper pull to decorate.

CORD TIDY Use the cord tidy template to cut a piece of outer floral fabric and interface it on the wrong side with H630. Cut a 12x21cm piece of untrimmed lining and interface with H630. Place these RST and sew around the edge. Trim lining to match the top. Make a short strip of bias binding from the floral fabric and bind the edge. Add the Kam Snap pieces 2.5cm in from each side and halfway up the piece. (See Pic I.) Now you can keep your iron cord from getting tangled up!

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BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

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Visit us in store or online to see our range of Dress Fabrics, Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda, Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting yarn and haberdashery. 19 Badminton Road Downend Bristol BS16 6BB

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

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JUST SEW Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 7HJ Tel: 01768 866791 • A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just waiting to be made into something gorgeous! We stock a wide range of patchwork and dress fabrics as well as haberdashery, patterns and threads. www.justsewpenrith.co.uk

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GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

DABhandLaserCraft From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around! 2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Fun & Cute Wood Buttons, more available from www.dabhandlaser.co.uk

Check out our other engraved craft supplies and gifts! Unit 10 Waltham Windmill Brigsley Road Grimsby N.E. Lincs DN37 0JZ

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week!

01472 357800

hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574

www.friarystitch.co.uk

10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

14 High Street, Alton, Hampshire, GU34 1BN T: 01420 544033 E: hello@stitchedbyyou.co.uk www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Stocking fabrics, haberdashery, dressmaking patterns, and kits! We also offer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

HEREFORD

HAMPSHIRE

LINCOLNSHIRE

HARROGATE

is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire. We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service. We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

Do pop in and say hello!

www.finefabricsofharrogate.co.uk finefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

LONDON

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

LONDON

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing. With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

NORFOLK

The Fent Shop Everything for dress and curtain making, knitting, needlework, and much more!

41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, Norfolk, PE30 1DP 01553 768613 www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

MALTBY

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops. Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

Sewing workshop s

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

NEWPORT

NORFOLK

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

NORTH YORKSHIRE

85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham, South Yorkshire, S66 7BL Telephone 01709 814444

NORTHALLERTON Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter. Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

Official Silver Sewing Machine stockist

Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards. Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

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NORTHUMBERLAND

PRESTON

SCOTLAND

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

24 St Mary’s Street, Newport, Shropshire, TF10 7AB 01952 814 962 zigzags@hotmail.co.uk www.zigzagsonline.co.uk

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery 01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

SOUTH WALES

Helen Rhiannon runs the All Sewn Up Workshops in Swansea, South Wales.

www.allsewnupwales.co.uk Call Helen on 07867 915993 Helen's expertise and enthusiasm shine through at the All Sewn Up Wales workshops! You can learn to make your own clothes, gifts or soft furnishings in these friendly and sociable workshops. The kettle is always on!

WINCHESTER

SOMERSET

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com 18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

SHEFFIELD

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

SHROPSHIRE

A warm welcome and a friendly smile are guaranteed when you shop with us! We stock fabulous fabrics, yarns, and haberdashery, and offer a variety of workshops for all abilities.

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium! We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

SOMERSET

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY

ST AUSTELL

1 Biddicks Court, St Austell, PL25 5EW Tel: 01726 75385 Email: sewandfabric@yahoo. co.uk Find us on Facebook

TAMWORTH

SOUTHAMPTON

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts. 2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

TEWKESBURY

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting. Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

WORTHING

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned. Many machines on display demonstrations available. Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1st Floor, 62 High Street, Winchester, SO23 9BX Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

To advertise please contact Jane on 0161 474 6976 or email jane.bates@practicalpublishing.co.uk

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We love

STYLE

To the

POINT This cosy Ponte Roma dress let's you play around with colour-blocking and is great with boots and tights Project JULIA CLARIDGE Bobbins & Buttons

Shopping list Find a wide range of Ponte Roma jersey, at www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

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MATERIALS & TOOLS:

NOTES:

• 1.4m of 150cm-wide Ponte Roma jersey fabric • 35cm of 150cm-wide contrast Ponte Roma of similar weight • lightweight fusible stretch interfacing • 46cm invisible zipper • ballpoint needle • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Use a 1.5cm seam allowance and zigzag stitch construction unless otherwise instructed Finish the raw seam allowance with a zigzag stitch on your machine or use an overlocker Apply stretch interfacing to WS of the front and back neck facing following the manufacturer's instructions If you prefer a looser fit dress you should be able to omit the zipper

LAYPLAN:

SIZING:

60"-wide fabric BUST

WAIST

HIP

XS (6)

321⁄2"

24"

341⁄2"

S (8-10)

331⁄2-35"

25-26"

351⁄2-361⁄2"

M (12-14)

37-39"

271⁄2-29"

38-40"

L (16-18)

41-43"

31-33"

42-44"

XL (20-22)

45-47"

35-37"

46-48"

XXL (24)

50"

40"

51"

Main fabric

Selvedge

Contrast

Yoke Back Sleeve

Back Neck Facing

Fold

BODY MEASUREMENTS

Front Neck Facing

Front

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HOW TO MAKE: Stay-stitch just within the seam allowance at the centre front â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Vâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; point of the yoke. Clip into the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Vâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; point. (See Pic A.) With RST and raw edges matched, pin the yoke to the lower front panel, pivoting at the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Vâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; point. You may want to tack this before stitching as it can be a little tricky to get this symmetrical. Stitch the seam. (See Pic B.) Neaten raw edges on an overlocker or with a zigzag stitch on your machine. (Most jersey fabrics donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fray, so you can omit this if you prefer). Neaten raw edges of centre back seam. With RST place the zip at the upper edge of the back, pin and stitch using a zipper foot. The lower part of the seam will be open. (See Pic C.) Pin the lower part of the centre back seam closed.

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With RST, join front and back together at shoulder seams. With RST and shoulder seams matched, pin the neck facing to the neck edge. Stitch in place. Clip the neck edge seam. Under-stitch the neck facing. (See Pics F and G.) With RST, pin and stitch the underarm seam of both sleeves. Stitch two rows of ease stitches over the sleeve head. (See Pic H.) With RST together,

matching underarm seams and notches, pin the sleeve into the armhole, easing as you go. Stitch in place. (See Pic I.) Neaten raw edges of armhole. (See Pic J.) Fold under the short egdes of the back neck facing and hand-sew to the zipper tape. Stitch the facing to the shoulder seams. (See Pic K.) Neaten raw edges of the hem and turn a single 2.5cm deep hem. Stitch in place to finish. (See Pic L.)

SAVE

15%

at Bobbins & Buttons See page 67 for details

Still using the zipper foot, stitch the centre back seam closed, starting from a few centimetres above the end of the zip to ensure a smooth neat centre back seam line. (See Pic D.) With RST, join the neck facing at shoulder seams. Press seam open. Finish the inner edge of the neck facing. If you have an overlocker you can simply overlock this edge. Alternatively, use a zigzag stitch or turn a single turn 0.5cm hem. (See Pic E.)

13/11/2018 17:59

Not what they ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

SEAM!

Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The Mccall Pattern Company, shares her tips for flat fell and welt seams, perfect for denim, corduroy and bulky fleece fabric

flat fell seam is a super strong, neat seam finish most often seen on jeans and reversible garments. A welt seam is very similar – both are great for heavyweight fabric. They are both relatively simple to sew but require remembering a slightly different construction order!

FLAT FELL SEAMS

This method provides a lovely finish as the seam allowances are hidden away so both inside and outside of the garment look neat. It also means that the edges won’t fray away. Often found on the outer legs of jeans, on men’s shirts etc, it can also be used on unlined coats, jackets or any garment where the underside will show. It is best used on straight seams or those with a minimal curve.

Jeans are usually stitched with flat fell seams on the outer leg seams (Butterick 5682)

To create this seam: 1. Sew the garment sections together with wrong sides together, adding the usual seam allowance. Press the seam to embed the stitches, then press seam allowance open. 2. Trim one seam allowance to 3mm. On the trousers this will usually be the back leg seam allowance so that the front leg allowance wraps to the back. 3. Press the untrimmed seam allowance over the trimmed one, tucking under 3mm of the untrimmed edge, so neatly covering the narrow allowance at the same time. 4. On the RS, stitch close to the fold, through all the layers to secure.

WELT SEAMS

This is another seam that is a good way to reduce bulk and hold seam allowances on heavyweight fabric flat. On the outside of the garment, it looks like a top-stitched seam. On the inside, the seam allowances are neatly finished. To create this seam: 1. Sew the seam with the right sides together as normal. Press the seam to embed the stitches. Press the seam allowances open. 2. Finish the seam allowance edge on one seam allowance with overcast, zigzag or by overlocking (without cutting off too much). Trim the other seam allowance to 3mm. 3. Press the neatened seam allowance over the trimmed one so they are both to one side and the narrow raw edge is covered by the neatened edge. 4. Working from the right side of the

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garment, top-stitch 1cm away and parallel to the original seamline, effectively holding the seam allowances in place on the underside as you sew.

WELT SEAMS

This will look like a flat fell seam from the right side. Stitch as welt seam above but also sew another line of top stitching close to the seam line.

This beautiful unlined coat with a waterfall front open has flat fell seams (Butterick 6244)

A welt seam, that reduces bulk in the seams, is perfect for thicker fabric, as used in a pinafore (McCallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 7831)

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WITH...

15 MINUTES

Crafty SEW & SO

This month we met Sarah and Freya, the duo behind Crafty Sew & So, to discover all about their creative business and ever-expanding indie pattern line Are you making any Christmas presents this year? Every year we both say we're not going to as we get so busy with workshops and helping customers buy their perfect Christmas presents. But every year we get distracted and find the perfect project we just have to make for our friends or families. This year Sarah is knitting up some hats using thick, chunky wool and I am making my little girl a new outfit for Christmas Day!

Sarah & Freya

fter meeting at a sewing workshop in 2013, Sarah and Freya realised they shared the dream of opening a haberdashery shop and workshop space. Five years on, their business Crafty Sew & So is a one-stop shop for sewists and crafters alike! Hi Sarah and Freya, how are you both? What’s on your sewing table at the moment? Hello! We are well, thank you. We both have a small pile of projects we're working on, getting ready for Christmas. Sarah is mainly working on a new party dress, using our latest My Handmade Wardrobe pattern, the Ready to Party Dress, ready for our Christmas party and I'm sewing myself a new pair of festive pyjamas! I like to sew a new pair for the whole family Sarah also teaches regular each year. classes at Crafty Sew & So

Tell us a little bit about Crafty Sew & So – how did the business get started? Sarah started teaching workshops in 2013 and I went along to a pattern-drafting class with her. We began chatting about our mutual dream of opening a sewing studio and fabric shop, and a year later opened our doors in Leicester city centre. We spent a long time finding suppliers and building our range of dressmaking fabric, aiming to bring something new and exciting to the market. What inspired you to work together and how do you divide up your tasks? We both bring something different to the business – Sarah is a fantastic teacher and uses her experience and knowledge to help pick out the best-quality fabric and create exciting workshops and patterns. I have a background in retail and have spent the last few years learning all I can about running a business. It's the really fun things, including organising events like The Dressmakers Ball (on 22nd

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ABOUT CRAFTY SEW & SO Sarah and Freya joined forces in 2015 to open the Crafty Sew & So workshop and haberdashery in Leicester, which offers a large selection of sewing equipment and fabrics. The duo has also launched indie pattern brand My Handmade Wardrobe, which offers fun-to-sew patterns, clearly presented and explained for all abilities. See the full pattern range at www.myhandmadewardrobepatterns.com and shop a wide range of fabric, haberdashery, machines and more at www.craftysewandso.com

The workshops teach sewing techniques for all skill levels

March 2019) and designing our patterns that we do together. Could you tell us a little more about The Dressmakers Ball? The Dressmakers Ball was dreamt up while we were stood around our cutting table, chatting with some friends. We were pondering the lack of formal events we to go to as adults and decided to take matters into our own hands. Once we found the perfect venue and picked a date we set about making sure the rest of the sewing community knew they were invited along.

Sarah and Freya's indie pattern label My Handmade Wardrobe

At its heart, The Dressmakers Ball is an opportunity for everyone who sews to make and wear something special. Getting together with other people who share the same hobby is uplifting and encouraging. The Dressmakers Ball is another opportunity to do just that, with dancing and cocktails! Everyone who sews anything is welcome at the ball, from milliners to seamstresses.

You run an online shop, as well as a bricks-and-mortar shop in Leicester. How do you balance your energy between the two? It can be tricky, but we both work really hard to stay organised (you have to!). We have a weekly meeting to catch up, keep on top of what is coming up and plan out what we want to talk about with our followers. Things like keeping up with Instagram can be a job of its own but we squeeze it in on the walk to work and with a cup of tea when we have a break.

The highlight of the evening will be the catwalk. Anyone who wants to is invited to join the catwalk competition and our panel of judges will choose its favourite outfits. We've got a selection of categories so everyone can join in – Beginner Dressmaker, Experienced Dressmaker, Accessories and Menswear. We're also organising a raffle with prizes from some of our favourite sewing brands to raise money for CoppaFeel, which is a charity that raises breast cancer awareness.

You offer lots of workshops, what are some of your most popular classes and why do you think this is? Our beginner class 'Start as you Mean to Sew On' is always really popular, it's designed to build the confidence of new sewists and encourage them to have a go at new projects and techniques. Our Continuing Dressmaking classes, including Jeans Making and Shirt Making, are also really popular; I think people like having the support when trying more challenging projects.

What prompted you to design your own patterns? It was always on the cards for us – both of us wanted to bring patterns to the sewing world that reflected us and our styles, and included really clear instructions, plus offer all the support new sewists might need. My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns are designed to encourage more people to learn to sew and include easy-to-follow, concise instructions and clear photographs. They are also perfect for teaching in our workshops as they include interesting techniques and lots of style variations. What’s next for Crafty Sew and So? We have more patterns planned for this coming year, and a big project we're going to start working on after our Christmas break! We can't reveal much about it yet, but hopefully we will be able to tell you more in the spring. Of course we have the Dressmakers Ball coming up in March, which is great event to meet up with other sewists and an excuse to sew a ballgown!

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Temptations Craft Boutique A n A laddin' s cave full of fabrics including C otton P op lins, L inens, W ool T weeds & P olyesters 100% C ottons for P atchwork and Q uilting K nitting yarn and haberdashery C ourses and workshop s A gents for B rother Sewing M achines V isit our shop or buy safely online 31 M ain Street, B entham, North Y orkshire, L A 2 7H Q T el: 01524 2 61868 www. t emp t a t ionsb ent h a m. c o. u k For shop op ening times p lease see our website

55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife, KY12 7DL, Scotland Tel: 01383 621894 Web: www.thesewstudio.co.uk Facebook & Instagram: @thesewstudiofife

Beautiful fabrics for your patchwork, dressmaking and homeware projects. Studio classes in a positive social environment and focussing on the joy of sewing, knitting, crochet & more!

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items. Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

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SHOP OF THE

EXETER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY This independent shop sells a variety of pretty craft supplies and offers helpful workshops. We spoke to owner Jenna to find out more

Jenna Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today? Today we’re running our Overlocking for Beginners class. Overlockers are often under-used, misunderstood or feared, so this is an incredibly popular workshop. We’re also getting ready for the season with lots of new Christmas stock and arranging new class dates for next year. Tell us a bit about how you came to own your shop The business has a long history in Exeter, having been established in the late 1940s. My interest in sewing and background in fashion led to meeting the previous owner Janet, who owned the shop with her husband David. In 2012, a job opportunity arose. I quickly took on a teaching role, and within a year my husband Chris joined the company as shop manager. After three years of working for Janet and David, we purchased the business in 2015.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist? There really isn’t one best machine. It depends so much on the user, what they want to sew, what they want to achieve, their budget and space. As an independent multi-brand store, we believe in helping our customers find the right machine for them. So, our advice is always to go to your local dealer as they can offer you a demonstration and you’ll have someone to go back to when you need help! Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store? The most memorable moments happen in the classroom, it’s an absolute joy to teach someone who wants to learn and to see the spark of creativity and inspiration flourish. We also enjoy seeing the same excitement when someone becomes the owner of a new machine – knowing that we’ve helped them discover or continue a much-loved hobby. What sets you apart from other shops? We aim to offer the full customer service when it comes to sewing machines. Because we’re a multibrand, we can give an independent opinion and we also offer tuition as well as servicing and repairs. We pride ourselves on our knowledge of all machines, particularly in the classroom. Our team covers a variety of specialised knowledge and skills, and our fabric range has something for everyone, from traditional to modern.

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? 2019 is set to be an exciting year for new special guest tutors and we’ll be running Japanese Textiles classes for the first time, including Shibori workshops and dyeing with indigo. You can find out about our workshops on our website and sign up to our email newsletter to hear about our special guest tutors.

Visit us!

EXETER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY LTD 7 Heavitree Road Devon EX1 2LD 01392 275660 www.exetersewing.co.uk

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PATTERN

SIMPLY

marvellous Sew your dream wardrobe with our exclusive 25% discount from Simple Sew patterns

Annabelle dress This easy-fit dress features a gathered waist and bust with a flattering inset waistband. Raglan sleeves and eye-catching neckline detail means there are exciting new techniques to try. You'll want to wear Annabelle to work, dinner with friends and special occasions. Priced ÂŁ10

Classic pencil skirt This skirt is actually part of a double pattern pack. The Duo of Skirts can each be made in your own style. Choose from the everso-glamorous pencil skirt or the relaxed, contemporary tie-waisted skirt. Priced ÂŁ10

Simple Sew is a fantastic UK-based pattern brand featuring modern designs and a great size range of 6-20. Enter the code LOVE25SEWING at www.simplesewpatterns.com before 10th January 2019 to receive 25% off all patterns! P&P charges still apply. Not usable in conjunction with any other offer. Doesn't include other products, magazines or bundles.

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Zoe tunic dress and top

Lottie blouse You'll love this easy-fit top with neckline bow and loose sleeves. Make in floaty fabric and it's perfect to wear with jeans at the weekend or to the office. The Lottie Blouse and Skirt Combo also includes a classic pencil skirt, creating an instant outfit! Priced £10

Lena wrap dress There are no tricky closures to deal with on this dress and the wrap bodice is fully lined. An inset waistband and skirt border allow you to play with colour and print blocking. Plus you can choose from three sleeve lengths and an optional lace overlay to personalise your dress. Priced £10

The clean lines and simple construction of this utilitarian-inspired, easy-to-make dress/top pattern makes for a very subtle, on-trend style statement. Add extra detail with contrast stitching! Priced £10

SAVE 25%

on all Simple Sew patterns with discount code

LOVE25SEWING*

Classic palazzo pants These gorgeous trousers are classically styled with a centre-back zip, waistband (that sits on the natural waist) and two easy side-seam pockets. You can make the trousers longer or shorter depending on your height by adjusting the length at the shorten or lengthen line on the pattern. Priced £10

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W t

FABRIC 1

Tilly and the Buttons Nora top available at www.fabricateshop.co.uk UK 6-20, ÂŁ12.50

Sweater

WEATHER Layer up in style this winter by taking advantage of this exclusive fabric discount from Fabricate!

SAVE

20%

bricate on jersey at Fa e using the cod JERSEY20*

Fabric shopping Peacock viscose jersey, ÂŁ7.80 per metre Michael Miller Magic Folk cotton jersey, ÂŁ19 per metre Dark blue multicoloured speck medium-weight jersey, ÂŁ18.52 per metre An Ode to Elvis lightweight jersey, ÂŁ7.12 per metre John Louden ochre/navy stripe jersey, ÂŁ11.92 per metre Dashwood Altitude Navy cotton jersey, ÂŁ19 per metre *Use the code JERSEY20 to save 20% on jersey fabric. Offer valid until 3rd January. Head to www.fabricateshop.co.uk/collections/fabric/material_jersey to browse the range. 86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Quick

Looking for a new machine for Christmas? The M50 QDC is just ÂŁ479 until 2nd January 2019

Terrific

MAKE

TREES We used the M50 QDC fully computerised machine. Visit www.janome.co.uk for more details

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 20cm-square base fabric, backed with interfacing â&#x20AC;˘ dotty fabric for snow drift â&#x20AC;˘ 2 large white & black appliquĂŠ trees â&#x20AC;˘ small black & white appliquĂŠ tree â&#x20AC;˘ Heat N Bond fusible adhesive â&#x20AC;˘ embroidery hoop â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating & contrasting thread

NOTES: All shapes to be mounted onto the base fabric using fusible adhesive

HOW TO MAKE: Using the hoop, draw a circle on the backing fabric to help you position the design. Fuse Heat N Bond to the reverse of the appliquĂŠ trees and snowdrift fabric. Remove the backing paper and set into position on the circle. Stitch across the top edges of the exposed snow using a satin stitch. Choose the zigzag stitch width to cover the raw edge adequately and lower the stitch length. A satin stitch foot will help the stitches flow under the foot smoothly. Stitch around the trees, just on the inside edge with a stitch

of your choice; weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve used a straight stretch stitch. Create the tree trunk using a zigzag stitch (width 2.0, length 0.3). Stitch approximately 1cm to 1.5cm to create a tree trunk on the trees as shown. Select the clasp stitch from the stitch selector to create the snowflake pattern on the upper background. Sew several snowflakes (clasp stitches) as required to create the snowy scene. On a computerised machine, using the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;lock stitchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; button will allow a singlepattern repeat of the selected decorative stitch. Before you start stitching, select the lock stitch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this will stitch out one pattern repeat. Lay the design over the inner hoop and loosen the outer hoop screw. Position over the inner hoop, trapping the fabric, and tighten the screw. Carefully cut away any excess fabric from the back of the hoop.

CLASP-STITCH SNOWFLAKES

In partnership with

COMPUTERISED MACHINES A fully computerised sewing machine has stitches and settings available at the touch of a button, helping you focus on learning new techniques and skills to improve your sewing. Here are just a few of the advantages: â&#x20AC;˘ When selecting stitches, the machine will automatically give you the default setting for the width and length of the stitch. You can still make changes, for example changing a zigzag stitch to a satin stitch, or changing the width and length to suit a particular project â&#x20AC;˘ Computerised machines will give you a greater choice of buttonholes, and this is ideal for dressmaking as the buttonholes will be consistent in length and density â&#x20AC;˘ Needle up/needle down â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if you start with the needle down the machine stops with the needle down, ideal when turning corners

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ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her experience altering clothes for a new fit!

ost some weight, and don’t want to replace your entire wardrobe? Or have you found a fabulous pair of trousers that are too roomy, but there was only one size? Much of the work I did as a West End Wardrobe Mistress was altering clothes, so I became a dab hand. Whilst many sewists don’t like altering or mending clothes, I love it! I was thrilled when I was able to make a one-of-a-kind pair of vintage men’s trousers fit a musician like they were custom-made, on a show I worked. And having lost a lot of weight myself a few years ago and not wanting to throw away investment dresses, I gleefully chopped 4” out of at least 10 dresses and saved a fortune (oh how I wish I hadn’t trimmed everything now I’ve gained weight again). My sister asked me to adjust a pair of trousers as she is becoming smaller. Whilst they aren’t an expensive pair of trousers, she loves the colour and frankly, altering is much better for the environment as well as your purse! Since the trousers have a side zip plus a waistband, the alteration might seem daunting, so I thought I’d share the process.

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners

TOP TIPS

Here are a couple of general rules for re-sizing: • If taking in less than a couple of inches, you can get away with cheating a little and take in on one side only. This isn’t technically the

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Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

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Technique

GUIDE right way to do it, but it will avoid having to take a zip out of the side seam to adjust both sides. Anything over a couple of inches and the garment will twist if taken in on one side only. • If re-sizing a lot, then you will need to remove things like the waistbands as you’ll essentially be re-cutting the garment. This means the waistband will need to be re-sized and will likely get in the way of your adjustments if left untouched.

STEP 3 – UNPICKING

In order to adjust the waist of my sister’s trousers, I had to unpick the waistband on either side. Since one side had a zip and a zip guard, these needed to be unpicked too. This waistband had been stitched in the ditch and understitched, then both sets of stitching had to be pulled out around the area to be altered. As I unpicked I took a couple of photos of the construction, as this is a great way to learn new techniques for making clothes!

Sew the waistband back onto the trousers. Replace the under-stitching along the top edge. The waistband facing is then reattached by 'stitching in the ditch' Before you can reattach the waistband on the open zip side, you’ll need to re-insert the zip. Why not revisit my column in issue 42 for tips on readyto-wear tips for zips?

• Make friends with your unpicker! You’re going to spend a lot of time together.

• Remember that when you lose weight, you lose it all over your body. This means your tummy may have shrunk too, so the crotch length on trousers may now be too long, and also require some alteration.

STEP 1 – FITTING YOURSELF

It sounds obvious, but you’d be amazed how many students I’ve had who didn’t think trying a garment on was necessary. If fitting solo, try and pin in both sides of the waist evenly first. Then, if you’re taking in a lot at the waist, you’ll need to think about blending the adjustment below the hips too.

It’s a good idea to trim away some of the excess seam allowance, especially if it’s a big adjustment which can make seams bulky, I chose to keep this seam as a closed seam so I didn’t need to do any unpicking. Once trimmed, neaten the raw edges with a zigzag or overlock stitch. I left the seam on the waistband unneatened, as it will then be encased and won’t fray, and I pressed this seam open to make sure it laid nice and flat.

STEP 6 – REATTACH WAISTBAND ON NON-ZIP SIDE

• DON’T be tempted to take in everything from the centre back. This will cause the back to become smaller than the front, dragging the side seams backwards and making the garment distorted.

• Garment alterations require some garment making knowledge, so don’t dive into re-sizing trousers if you’ve never inserted a zip or sewn on a waistband, as this isn’t the project to start learning those basics.

STEP 5 – NEATEN NEW SEAMS

STEP 4 – MARKING OUT THE ADJUSTMENTS

Using your favourite making tool, draw a new stitching line. I used chalk and a French curve using pin marks as a rough guide, and then creating a nice smooth line once I removed the pins. Since you want to make the alteration symmetrical, I marked just one side, then pinned this to the opposite side along the original seamline. I then used dressmakers carbon paper and a tracing wheel to mark a perfectly mirrored stitching line. Since the waistband is sewn as a straight line I used a measuring gauge to mark this up. Pin all the new stitching lines and take to machine and sew. (I ALWAYS alter within an original seamline before unpicking it. That way you don’t have to fiddle about lining anything up like stripes etc.)

STEP 7 – TAKING IN THE INSIDE LEG/SHORTENING THE CROTCH

With a big resize, like my example, it’s a good idea to also reduce the width at the inside leg seam. I often refit my trousers to see how much to adjust once the sides and waistband have been done. This adjustment also makes the crotch length shorter, which is perfect for resizing as the tummy also gets smaller, and the crotch can sit too low. Mark up as before, stitch and neaten as before.

STEP 2 – MEASURING THE ADJUSTMENTS

Just in case your pinning wasn’t symmetrical, measure either side at the waistline as pinned and take an average measurement. I find it helpful to keep a notebook near the sewing machine and jot down the amounts I’m adjusting. In my example, I needed to take-in the trousers by a total of 4”.

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Cathi Bessell Browne is the creative mind behind Gertrude Made and Ella Blue Fabrics. Her collection of stunning floral barkcloth Outback Wife works perfectly for each of her pattern designs. Visit www.simplicitynewlook.co.uk to see the full range, including her new bag pattern Simplicity 8709

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FABRIC

Coming up ROSES

With new prints imminent for the Outback Wife Barkcloth collection, we've rounded up our favourite designs from the Ella Blue Fabrics range by Cathi Bessell Browne 4

Fabric shopping Elizabeth Plum, ÂŁ7 per FQ www.flo-jofabrics.co.uk Rachael Tan, ÂŁ28 per metre www.sewhot.co.uk Genni Teal by Gertrude Made for Ella Blue Fabrics, ÂŁ28 per metre www.sewhot.co.uk Elizabeth Red, ÂŁ28 per metre www.sewhot.co.uk Anna Apricot, ÂŁ28 per metre www.simplysolids.co.uk Elaine Dark Pink, ÂŁ7 per FQ www.purple-stitches.com Anna Pink, ÂŁ28 per metre www.eternalmaker.com Bindi blue and white, ÂŁ7 per FQ www.flo-jofabrics.co.uk

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MACHINE

REVIEW

PFAFF showcases German engineering at its best. Love Sewing takes a look at some of its most impressive sewing machines at www.pfaff.com

BEST FOR CONFIDENT BEGINNERS

PFAFF AMBITION 610 If you’re an ambitious beginner and want a machine that can support your confidence and push you to expand your skills, PFAFF’s ambition 610 would make an ideal sewing companion. As well as its unique Integrated Dual Feed System (IDS), there are over 100 diverse stitch options that will enable you to expand your stitch library and easily embellish your fabric. The machine offers maximum precision due to its adjustable speed slider, mirror-stitching imaging and impressive twin-needle program, which can be viewed and adjusted via the high-res LCD screen. You can expect an easy and swift set up as well as an expansive sewing space of 200mm to the right of the needle so no sewing project is out of reach.

Lorna

R UNDE

£600

BEST FOR GADGET LOVERS

PFAFF PERFORMANCE ICON Bigger is better when it comes to PFAFF’s performance icon machine. This impressive model showcases German engineering at its best with the brand’s largest work area (310mm width and 140mm height), as well the range’s strongest needle-piercing power. This machine will encourage you to push your skills and inspire your curiosity to try out new techniques, stitches and fabric. There are a whopping 522 built-in stitches and six sewing fonts for you to try, all executed with precision and speed thanks to the machine’s innovative features. PFAFF’s patented ActivStitch technology will help you achieve the upmost accuracy, supported by activating sensors that measure fabric thickness and regulate the amount of thread passing through the fabric accordingly. Visit PFAFF’s website and be impressed by the extensive list of features included.

Bethany

UNDE

£5,000

BEST FOR THE ALL-ROUNDER

PFAFF CREATIVE ICON PFAFF’s tagline for this machine is ‘Where perfection meets freedom’ and we certainly cannot argue with such a bold statement when reading about the incredible features this machine has to offer. Despite the creative icon’s simplistically sleek appearance, it manages to push the technological boundaries marrying up advanced technology with accessible features and an ergonomically-friendly design. Access over 800 stitches at the touch of a button, and enjoy unprecedented stitch choreography and precision via the large (257mm) full-colour, interactive display thanks to PFAFF’s design modifications, the machine’s base is built to reduce vibrations thus ensuring maximum control and a relaxing sewing experience.

Amy

UNDE

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Next month in

Sizes

6-22

T H E U K â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

AMAZING

PATTERN worth ÂŁ9.50

McCall's 7661 on-trend trousers

See page 26 for our subscriber offer

Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P P P P

Pussy-bow blouse step-by-step guide Sewing room secrets with Debbie Shore Trouser fitting demystified! Learn full-bust adjustments plus 5 more essential alterations

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ISSUE 62 ON SALE 27TH DEC 2018

Easy-wear

KNIT DRESS Make me today

OVEN GLOVE

Fancy a cuppa?

TEA CUSHION

PULL-OUT TEMPLATES INCLUDED!

Kiss and make-up

SELFIE BAG

o Peake Expert guidance from Wendy Gardiner P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castr se Hardie Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Top techniques from Claire-Loui *All contents subject to change.

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W t

We love BAGS

Earn your

STRIPE Rock the side-stripe trend with this clever tote bag tutorial

Shopping list

Project KAREN GREENFIELD www.drapersdaughter.com

Merchant & Mills Laundered Linen in Goodnight, ÂŁ9.50 per half metre, www.drapersdaughter.com. Bird of Paradise Webbing Tape, ÂŁ1.65 per metre, www.vvrouleaux.com

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 1m outer fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 1m of 15mm-wide contrast webbing tape â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread

CUTTING: â&#x20AC;˘ 2 pieces 51cm high x 47cm wide for the bag panels â&#x20AC;˘ 2 68cm lengths of webbing â&#x20AC;˘ 2 72x9cm rectangles for straps

HOW TO MAKE: From each lower corner of the two bag panels cut a 3cm square. (See Pic A.) Placing the two bag pieces WST, pin and sew one of the side seams together using a 5mm seam allowance. (If you have a 1â &#x201E;4" foot, these are great creating a neat French seam) Trim the seam allowance down to 3mm. Press the seam open to set the stitches. Fold the fabric along the seam with RST. Pin the layers together along the pressed edge and stitch, again using a 5mm seam allowance. On the

WS of the seam, press the French seam to one side. Starting at the base of the bag, pin the webbing tape along the seam on the RS. (See Pic B.) Edge-stitch along each side of the webbing tape, taking care not to catch the seam as you work. Repeat the steps on the other side of the bag. French-seam the base of the bag as you did the side seams. To make the boxed bottom of the bag, arrange the bottom seam and a side seam directly on top of each other, WST. Pin and sew along the two corner sections using a 5mm seam allowance. Trim the seam to 3mm and press open. (See Pic C.) Turn the bag inside out and pin the layers together at each corner this time. RST and stitch, again using a 5mm seam allowance. To make the handles, fold

each strap in half RST, pin and sew together using a 10mm seam allowance. Press the seams open and trim. Turn the handles out to the RS, press flat with the seam along one edge. Top-stitch both sides of the handles. With the bag still inside out, turn a 5cm hem around the top edge of the bag. Press then fold the hem 5cm again. Slip one raw end of one handle under the hem and position 10cm in from one of the side seams. Without twisting the handle, place the second raw end under the hem 10cm in from the other side seam. Top-stitch 5mm up from the bottom of the fold. Pin the handles up towards the top of the bag. Top-stitch 5mm from the top edge of the bag, making sure to include the handles. Turn the bag RS out, press, and you're done!

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