Frederick's Visual Development II by Ezzy Ruiz

VISUAL DEVELOPMENT GUIDE

FREDERICK’S

VISUAL DEVELOPMENT GUIDE

PRINTED BY BLURB INC. 580 California St # 300, San Francisco, CA 94104

A digital version of this visual standard guide book is available online at femaleambition.com.

www.blurb.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without the written permission of Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inc.

First Published in 2015

FREDERICK’S

VISUAL DEVELOPMENT GUIDE

TA BLE OF

CONTENTS

01\

VISUAL ANALYSIS

Brand Research & Popular Logos

03\

02\

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Raw Pencil Sketches & Research, Female Body Iconography Art Deco Inspiration

LOGO EVOLUTION 103

SOURCES 136

Logo Design Moving Forward, Color Theory and Psychology Typography Research Brands Maktype

Logo Design Moving Forward

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VISUAL ANALYSIS 1

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BRAND RESEARCH AND CURRENT

COMPETITORS LOGOS

My visual research allowed me to visually understand the language and feeling each brand communicated to the world. It is not just what the logo expresses but it is the whole package. This package includes color palette, a particular style of imagery and typography. All which create a unique voice and mood that cannot and should not be seen in any other brand. These worlds the creative industry have designed are what separates brands from each other. Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret will never look like Gucci or Nike, because they all have a particular market, a voice and feeling that makes them unique. They may all sell clothing for women but their visual presentation is what makes their products unique.

A brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mark and logotype should be as unique as their universe and it should standout form the thousands of designs out there in the world. That is why it is essential to truly know the brands past, present and future. Companies morph into these small worlds where their customers find themselves in synced with them and create this relationship that goes beyond buying a product.

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Victoria’s Secret was Frederick’s number one competitor. Some believe that this brand ran Frederick’s of Hollywood out of business. This is an exampled of their dynamic use of their brand mark and logo type.

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It is amazing to see the juxtaposition between Victoria’s Secret’s ads next to Dove’s. It is a perfect example of the visual language that brands use to represent their own worlds and where their priorities stand.

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A combination vs. type focused logos, which one works best? My biggest question going through these was do these really show what the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mission? Looking through these makes me wonder, is it necessary to use the letters in the brand title to create a successful mark? Then again Nike is a perfect example that it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t.

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TOO MUCH PINK!

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As a tomboy in my teen years, I would be turned off by all this pink. I myself would not be attracted to it because they have put me, a girl, into a small pink box. The most successful gender neutral designs are the Girl Scout logo, the two heart next to it and the Women in Architecture marks.

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THE FEMALE LOOK, WHAT IS IT?

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LEGITIMACY

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What if none profit organizations designed their logos like famous clothing brands? Would that help their popularity and cause their logos to be more gender neutral? All of these look much more serious and on point, except the Guess logo. Some of the previews logos are so sweet that its hard to see them as serious brands that can truly make a difference.

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SO MANY CURVES & TOO MUCH ENERGY

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It is very interesting to see how each brand has their own voice, way of presenting a type of women and how even though the products could have the same use, they feel very different because of the way the brand presents the product.

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RAW PENCIL

SKETCHES & RESEARCH

The brand Frederick’s of Hollywood was known for its undergarments and the way it made women feel when they wore the brand’s designs. The designs sexually empowered housewives to feel glamorous like hollywood movie stars with a hint of sexy pin-up. As the times evolved and the economy changed women were now out in the work force being empowered by their careers, knowledge and experience, rather than solely being empowered by their looks. The re-branding of Frederick’s had to have a hint of the past that emphasized on beauty and femininity of what it once was, but in a less sexual way. The new Frederick’s will empower teens and young adult women to be leaders of their lives and neighborhoods and make a change in the world.

The trademark must emphasize all the elements of what the re-branding of Frederick’s stands for and represents. Designing the mark started off with visual research of iconography that represented femininity in various parts of the world and in different time periods. Some that were still relevant and others that had been left in the past. The mark must also show the strength and independence that Frederick’s market can relate too. It is meant to have a balance between beauty, leadership and strength. Throughout history we have seen how symbols and icons represent a language that categorizes both men and women. In the search to find mark for Frederick’s the question of what do these sex symbols mean and where to they come from?

INTRO

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AV I A N I CO N OG R A PH Y R E S E A RC H

Birds have many profound meanings that vary depending on the location and culture one is researching. Most of them however focus on seeing birds connected to motherhood. The symbol is linked with touching, singing, subtle songs that puts us in a very comfortable mood. It also represents nourishment, security and assurance. The words associated with birds are love, safety, growth, healing, security, provision, nurturing, protection, satisfaction, compassion and self-sacrifice. Well known types of iconographic birds are the dove, goose, hen, magpie, pelican, sparrow, swallow and vulture.

Mother Goose a well known character throughout many countries, represents nursery rhymes and collective motherhood myths. Geese are notorious for protecting their younglings and can be vicious if they feel their offspring is in danger. These creatures show strong familial bonds with their entire clan. Indeed, if a mother is struggling, one or two clan members will stay with her even when the rest of the group begins to migrate. The bond between families is so strong that members will not leave a family member in need behind. The goose is a beautiful example of how it takes a village to raise the bar on social responsibility within youth and community.

Doves are associated with peace, love and tranquility. The dove is seen next to Venus (Roman goddess of love) in many classic paintings pushing the meaning and connection to love. The dove is also a common symbol of the Virgin Mother Mary in Christian and Catholic religions. It is portrayed in Christian art as a representation of selfless love and the sacrifice every all good mothers make for the assurance of a good future to their children.

Hens are connected to the term â&#x20AC;&#x153;mother henâ&#x20AC;? who care for her young all day and night. They are diligent in seeing to the needs of their newborns. Furthermore, they are excellent teachers to their offspring, constantly showing them what they should do and gathering them when they are separated. They give their little ones everything they need to know to survive. Then, quite suddenly, the mother hen completely disassociates with the chicks. This back-turning to their young is essential for the survival of these chicks.

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Magpie is an Australian Aboriginal lore, the magpie is symbolic of provision, motherly love and protection. Legend has it that when the world was created the world was covered by clouds that wouldn’t let sun rays could pass through them to warm up the earth. The magpie took pity on humans (fumbling in darkness), and gathered sticks to keep the clouds open between the earth and sky so that mankind could have light. Here the magpie is the mother of light and allows for the regeneration of mankind.

associated with love (motherly and otherwise) as we see her again associated with the goddess of love, Venus. Similar to the symbolism of a dove.

The swallow is symbolic of hope, fertility and renewal of life. Another symbol of the love goddess, Venus, the Roman’s believed it was extremely unlucky to harm a swallow. Further more, the Roman’s believed that it was a totem bird to mothers in sorrow as it was said the swallow embodied all the young, innoThe mother bird pelican is another symbol of motherly self- cent’s who died during childbirth. It is seen as a guardian of those sacrifice in order to provide for her young. Myth indicates pelican young offspring who leave this world too soon. mothers feed their own blood to their young, assuring their wellA very different bird who is usually not associated with feminibeing at the cost of her own life. In reality, the pelican regurgitates ity is the vulture. A symbol of motherhood because these (often food for her babies, and in doing so, blood from the macerated maligned) creatures are devoted caretakers of their young. Indeed, fish spots her snowy white breast – hence giving the impression the Egyptian hieroglyphic for “mother” is a vulture. Further, the of piercing her own chest to let blood as food for her young. Egyptian mother goddess, but is often depicted with the vulture Sparrows are a symbol of excessive care or delicacy, com- in ancient art of the culture. The Egyptians observed the vulture fort and simplicity. In European lore, the sparrow is symbolic of as an excellent mother – to such an extent it was thought all vuldomesticity and competent homemaking. The sparrow is also tures were female.

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In search of finding a mark for the Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand, my mind went straight to the connection between women and nature. I thought that it could lead me to a good symbolic logo that represented the strength of being female and yet still show a hint of the feminine gentle beauty both nature and women hold. My biggest influences were birds.

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Phoenix. The phoenix is a symbol of the Resurrection and of eternity. According to legend this mythical bird could never die; on attaining its five-hundredth year it committed itself to the flames of a funeral pyre, only to rise reborn from its own ashes.

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The bird illustrations were meant to be curvy and sharp. They look young filled with energy and could be said they look curious as birds tend to be. My mind kept thinking about my archetypes and how the logo could identify with them. Instead of thinking about what the brand would offer, who it was and what it stood for.

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DOV E SY M BO LI S M

Dove symbolism has wide and broad interpretations understood throughout most histories, cultures and myth. The dove is associated with several religious figures in historical dove symbolism. For example in the Christian and Catholic religion the dove is commonly seen in Christian art with Mary as a symbol of care, devotion, purity and peace. In this motherly light, the dove elicits a promise of hope and salvation.

The Native Americans believed that rain was soon to come when they spotted a dove. While the Ancient Celts, Picti, and Gauls thought the sounds of a Dove was meant to be taken as a mourning call. It goes back to the religious concept of it meaning peace and death. In fact Ancient Celts believed that the Doves sound meant the passing of a soul on earth and was finally on peace. A similar belief to the Slavs who thought that the dove was a carIt represents love so divine that doves are painted next to rier of souls to heaven. The dove resembles love, grace, promise, Aphrodite (Venus in Roman myth)the goddess and mother of love. devotion, divinity, holiness, sacrifice, maternal, ascension, purifiThe dove is a symbol of love that surpasses any sort of human cation, messenger and hopefulness. love out there. It surpasses any downfalls of mankind. The dove symbolism is often connected to heavenly representation. John the Baptist even stated (Matthew 3:16) how the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spirit of God descended like a dove upon us.â&#x20AC;? It is also seen as the symbol of peace in times of war. A good connection to the concept of its presentation to heaven. The peace of heaven will stop any war and it will also resemble life after death. Surprisingly doves resemble heaven, death and peace.

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The Dove represents love, peace death and guidance. It is a positive symbol of peace in modern times as well as ancient cultures like the Celts, Picti and Gauls.

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G OOS E M E A N I N GS A N D SY M BO LI S M

The symbolism behind the goose has changed over the years Geese are great communicators and have their own signaling and become more of a negative one than it use to be. It is today system when they sense a member of their group is in trouble. connected to laziness and silly attitudes but in history and through They also work as a team to communicate warnings, as well as the study of its true nature. The goose is a mighty animal that messages of prime landing sites whenever traveling. Geese are does not leave his family members behind. also fiercely protective of their young. They are often presenting an Geese annually migrate locations with warmer climates dur- impressive thrashing display to would-be predators. These scare ing the winter. Should a goose become injured or incapable of tactics often work to protect goslings from attack. flying during this journey, another goose will leave the migrating flock to and keep his family member company until it regains it strength or until it passes away. An honorable bird for its loyalty and care. The words that are associated with geese are bravery, loyalty, teamwork, confidence, protection, fellowship, communication, and determination. Geese are incredibly gifted navigators and instinctively know the way across the long journey to warmer locations. They move forward with confidence and bravery.

Those who are kind, loyal, and brave-hearted attract geese as their totem. The goose totem symbolizes clear communication, true-blue defenders and compassionate keepers of their community.

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The animal symbolism of the goose doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do the animal justice. Too often in myth and lore we see the goose representing silly attitudes or lazy dispositions. On the contrary, the symbolism of the goose is associated with bravery, loyalty, teamwork, confidence, protection, fellowship, and communication.

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LESSONS FROM GOOSE TOTEMS: • Remember your roots and don’t forget the people who helped you along the way.

• Communicate your needs to others or no one can help you if you don’t speak out.

• Follow your gut and rely on intuition and instinct in order to get where you need to be.

• Protect that which is most valuable, but make sure you have your priorities straight (meaning, be sure you’re protecting that which is worth protecting).

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C R A N E M E A N I N GS A N D SY M BO LI S M

The crane’s fidelity and mating rituals make it a common symbol The longevity of the crane may also have caused it to be associfor loyalty and successful marriage. Its fabled long life span also ated with a family tree or lineage. Our word pedigree may come makes it a symbol of longevity. from the French word for “foot of the crane,” or pied de grue. The crane is a popular symbol in Asian culture, and the prac- Legend has it that the crane’s legs grow before its wings do, sugtice of folding paper cranes for good fortune, healing, happiness, gesting that the bird has a strong tie to the ground. and success was popularized by Sadako Sasaki, a young victim of the radiation from the Hiroshima disaster. Chains of paper cranes, often numbering a thousand in total, are given as offerings at temples and shrines. The crane is also perceived as a bird capable of flying to the very heavens, and is said to have borne spirits of the deceased there upon its back. In ancient China, the crane was used as the symbol of highest-ranking officials.

In other parts of the world such as Africa and North America it is seen as a symbol that is associated with wisdom. Native American men perform the Crane dance dressed in feathers and ceremonial outfits in order to impress a potential wife. In the Christian religion the crane represents those who provide goods for others in common, and watch over the obedience of their brothers, protecting them from devils and the incursions of this world.

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The crane is generally thought to be a symbol of maternal love and happiness. Many cultures consider the Crane to be a symbol of communication, or a spiritual messenger.

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Birds seemed like a perfect way to show strength, migration, cycle and elegance. I connected them to the women that I thought could identify with the universe the brand lived in. While they are beautiful and almost fragile they also make a quite presence that was the opposite of the loud personality Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Hollywood ones had.

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The owl is sacred to the Greek goddess of learning, Athena, and is even depicted on some Greco-Roman currency as a symbol of status, intelligence and of course, wealth. In ancient Egyptian, Celtic, and Hindu cultures the symbolic meaning of owl revolved around guardianship of the underworlds, and a protection of the dead.

Owls symbolic wisdom, mystery, transition, messages, intelligence, mysticism, protection and secrets. Native Americans associated the meaning of owl with wisdom, foresight, and keeper of sacred knowledge. This may largely be due to the fact that the owl is a great foreteller of weather conditions. Also its ability to see at In this light the owl was ruler of the night and seer of souls. night is legend among the Native Americans, and this attribute A misunderstanding of this necessary relationship gave the owl would be invoked during ceremonies when an oracle of secret knowledge was required. some negative associations with death. It should be clear that the owl was honored as the keeper of spirits who had passed from one plane to another. Often myth indicates the owl accompanying a spirit to the underworld - winging it’s newly freed soul from the physical world into the realm of spirit. Being aware of the owl’s symbolic meanings is a good way to connect with this fascinating creatures, and also become more in-tune with the owl’s wisdom.

Similarly, West African and Aboriginal Australian cultures viewed the owl as a messenger of secrets, kin to sorcerers, as well as companions to seers, mystics and medicine people. The owl is a creature of the night. It’s important to note the symbolism of nocturnal creatures because night-time proclivities have specific philosophical meanings. Combine the following nocturnal symbolic meanings with that of the owl for a broader interpretation.

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Owls live within the darkness, which includes magic, mystery, and ancient knowledge. It becomes a symbol of the femininity and fertility, with the moonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cycles of renewal.

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The clothing was designed by Harrison Johnson modeled by Paige Gembala and makeup styling was done by Jackqueline Ryan. This was a major inspiration in being able to draw and see the female body in a different way, rather than curves showing its form through sharp angles to represent the strength of femininity.

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TRIANGLE MEANING &

SYMBOLISM

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As I was doing my research into triangles, I found many mentions of the connection between the three sides of a triangle and the significance of the number three; and What’s Your Sign. com summarized this connection in this manner:

The orientation of a triangle is important to its meaning; i.e. upright triangles = female/mother/fire/air, and Upside down triangles = male/father/water/earth. The upward moving triangle is sometimes called the blade (the chalice and blade figure ceremonially in many ritual magic operations). It is a symbol of aspiration or rising up, male force, and fire. The triangle represents aspiration, rising force, and the male principal. The downward pointing triangle is sometimes referred to as the chalice. It is the symbol of water (as it flows downward), the grace of heaven, and the womb. It is one of the most ancient symbols of female divinity.

‘The spiritual meaning of number three deals with magic, intuition, fecundity, and advantage. The number three invokes expression, versatility, and pure joy of creativity. Three is also a time identifier as it represents past, present and future. Consecutive threes in your life may symbolize the need to express yourself creatively, or consider your present directional path in relation to past events and future goals. Three may also Triangles can have one of two quite opposite meanings. The represent promising new adventures, and assurance of coop- shape can imply stability, power and energy when the shape eration from others whom you may require help. Three typically rests on a solid base. But it results in feelings of conflict, tension symbolizes reward and success in most undertakings.’ and nervousness when the base is upside down or appears unstable. In many cultures the reference to the triangle includes some religious undertones: Body-Mind-Spirit or Father-SonHoly ghost or Past-Present-Future.

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Almost any use of a triangle implies motion. The eye is drawn to Triangles can direct movement based which way they point. the shape and follows it from the widest part of the shape to the They can be used to suggest familiar themes like pyramids, pointed tip. The shape in almost any form is related to masculine arrows and, pennants. Spiritually they represent the religious ideas because of strength. trinity. They can suggest self-discovery and revelation. The most common uses for triangles in design projects are as directional or navigation tools. Triangles are often small in relationship to the canvas and can sometimes be used in a block-style grouping to create a dynamic image or background theme. Triangles are closed shapes, made of three intersecting lines. An â&#x20AC;&#x153;openâ&#x20AC;? triangle is called an angle.

The strength of triangles suggests masculinity. Their dynamic nature makes them better suited to a growing high tech company than a stable financial institution when designing a logo. Triangles can be used to convey progression, direction, and purpose.

When creating my triangle designs it was focused on showing the strength in the female body through triangular shapes. Rather This shape can be stable when sitting on their base or unstable than making the triangle masculine I switched the shape of strength when not. They represent dynamic tension, action, and aggres- to the upside down triangle which symbolize femininity. In order to sion. Triangles have energy and power and their stable/unstable mix both concepts of power and the female icon. dynamic can suggest either conflict or steady strength. They are balanced and can be a symbol for law, science, and religion.

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I attempted to how the beauty of the female figure but instead of using circles I illustrated women in triangles and sharp edges to show strength and stability. Unfortunately, I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thinking about the brand and what it could offer. I was just focusing on the audience. A big mistake on my part because a mark does not represent the archetypes it represents that brand and its ideals.

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These designs were influenced by origami, futuristic fashion design, Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pointy bras from the past and the strong essence of the triangle shape.

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When showing these to various female personas who are leaders of their lives in their own way, I received feed back that it seemed that my brand was about dancing, fashion and even gymnastics but there wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a single tester that got close to what the brand was. There were also very specified answers and no room for ambiguity, which made me realize that I needed to change the way I was designing the mark.

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Surface texture of paper construction from Sandra Backlundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ink Blot Collection 2007.

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This design was the winner of all 300 illustrations drawn for Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new mark. Chosen by my professor/art director as the strongest and most simple design from the batch. It was requested that I focus on art deco inspiration for the next batch of illustrations.

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Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is about the strength and power of women. Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s educates, trains and supports teens and young female adults to pursue a life of leadership that will change not only their lives, but also the lives of those that surround them. On my journey to finding a mark that represents women, I drew many female figures that showed strength, sensuality and femininity. My inspiration came from gymnastic moves, yoga and dance.

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FEMALE BODY

ICONOGRAPHY

R E S E A RC H

My visual research consisted of finding different ways the female body has been represented. The filtering on what was good inspiration and what wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, was focused on body language. All of the inspirations needed to have strong, confident and powerful poses. I looked through sculptures, paintings, illustrations and even movies to help me find poses that I would like to sketch out for the mark. The idea of using the female body came from many logos I had seen in the past that were used to represent female strength and female empowerment groups.

When I brought these sketches to class my professor and art director told me that female figures are way too overdone and that they had even been mocked by a great logo designer. Pushing me away from this idea.

None the less It was an inspirational research exercise that allowed me to illustrate various female forms that I thought at the time would be a good stepping stone to a strong feminine brand. While researching I would ask myself how strong women are depicted? Where do we see them and how is the female body and Female forms have been a presentation of fertility, power, nur- image depicted in our everyday lives. ture and nature throughout generations, cultures and part of the These questions lead me to research yoga, gymnastics, karate, world. There are fertility totems that women and men have in their boxing and other forms of physical sports that strong women were homes to bring them luck and bring their offspring. In fact many involved in. Then I moved on to researching advertising where cultures believe in goddesses and female heroes that save planet women are shown in powerful positions and poses. Most females earth and the way they are presented are through feminine figures. that are selling clothing or a product in general look strong, powerful and even intimidating. Good visual icons to what Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rebranding was slowly molding towards.

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One of the main objectives of Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is that women help and support each other, whether it is physically helping one another or emotionally. The lines created by these two women who are supporting, challenging and pushing one anotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fitness. Inspired me for the following illustrations.

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Mind and body fitness? Many people who want to get into shape don’t realize there is more to fitness than well-toned muscles. There’s no shortage of exercise regimes that just promote the perfection of the body, or the idea of fitness as a part of a weight loss plan. Centuries ago, Western culture lost its focus on the inter connectedness between the body and the mind or spirit, and how each has the power to affect the other. Cultivating a love of movement can help you get beyond the concept of physical fitness as separate from mental fitness – and toward a lifelong program of good health through mind and body fitness. When drawing these female poses I thought of how women see themselves and their bodies today and how Frederick’s could take a role in their lives as a health coach. So, that mind and body should be united in order to have well balanced health. So, that our goal of empowering women will be able to come true not only by knowledge, but by love of self as well.

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In this set I did use more curvature to express the female form, and included a hint of sensuality to connect to the sexual history of the brand. I showed the illustrations to various women from different age groups and they responded by saying they were dancing, sexual education and even menstrual products. They did not see much of the strength of women but they did see the beauty and femininity side of them.

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This was one of my favorite illustrations because of its strong pose, up right angles and empowering energy. It is also a very obvious feminine body but it is not sensual or weak. The body language is challenging and loud. Its as if the women could break any barriers life throws at her.

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This piece is also on the top of my list because of its body movements. It looks like this woman feels free, powerful, relieved and untouched by any negativity. She feels as if she were in action. Not as overbearing and strong at the piece to the left but still independent and secure of herself.

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INVASION OF THE NEUTERED SPRITES

BY MICHAEL BIERUT It is of out most important to research what we as designers are producing and take a few minutes to search online for clues that might suggest a negative point of view on what you are working on.

After densigning a hundred plu illustrations on the female form and presenting them to my art director he brought up an article by Michael Bierut titled the Invasion of the Nueutered Sprites. A good read but completly shattered by logo illustrations. What the man spoke of was true and I learend a good lesson before you work something that requires many drafts show it around and see the reaction. Also good some similar designs and ask your self is this really what my brand wants to communicate? What is the point of view design community have on this particular idea? If no red flags pop up you are on the clear. Here is the article incase you haven’t read it.

My first paying job as a graphic designer — strictly speaking, as a commercial artist — was doing the illustrations for a filmstrip, one of those slideshows timed to a recorded soundtrack that was popular in mid-20th century classrooms. It was intended to introduce an inner-city youth employment program to potential participants. It was 1975, the summer I graduated from high school. My work was directed by a charismatic black guy whom I now picture as Idris Elba. Nearly 35 years later, I can only remember two things about that project. First, the soundtrack he had picked was the very hip-to-me “Maiden Voyage” by Herbie Hancock. Second, and more importantly, I had a lot of trouble figuring out how to draw the characters that would represent the participants in this program, whose poses would be used to illustrate the step-by-step requirements of enrollment and successful completion.

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My first attempts were ambitious: eyes, noses, hairdos, clothing. Idris was patient. “Listen, you’ve got to simplify these. I don’t want people distracted by these hats and stuff.” I tried again. “Better, but can you make it so you can’t tell whether they’re black or white?” Okay, one more time. “Look, Mike, I don’t want people even to know whether these are men or women. They just have to look like...people, you know?” I tried another drawing. Idris was getting antsy. “Right, but these are too stiff looking. Can you make them look a little happier?” Finally I reduced the figures down to their essence: eyeless balls representing heads, atop curvy stars, with the four points representing fingerless, toeless arms and legs. “That’s it!” said my first client. Without really knowing what I was doing, for my first paying job, I had contributed to a plague: the profusion of sexless, blankly cheerful little people that I have come to call Neutered Sprites. They’re everywhere. Behold!

ated a language of symbols called Isotype to convey complex statistical ideas in a simple visual way. There’s no mistaking the gender of Neurath’s square-shouldered, round-headed figures: he frankly calls them “man symbols,” fitting the title of his masterwork, Modern Man in the Making. But they are undoubtably landmarks, and clearly progenitors to the now-ubiquitous bathroom symbols formalized by Roger Cook and Don Shanosky in 1974 as part of the AIGA-led U.S. Department of Transportation Symbol Signs program. The design world, however, clearly had a need for a less rigid, “friendlier,” way of representing people. Hence, starting in the late fifties, the rise of the Neutered Sprites. I suspect that many of those who draw these have a vague image in their minds of the dancing figures in Henri Matisse’s collages. These have all the characteristics for which one seeks in vain in Corbu and Neutrath. They are nimble, lively, happy. They are not obviously young or old, black or white, male or female. And one last thing, which is the best of all. Drawing the human figure, as anyone who has taken a life drawing class can testify, is difficult. Neutered Sprites are — or at least they appear to be — really easy to draw. I remember realizing that with great relief back on that very first job. The little bastards just came pouring out of my felt tipped pen, one after another. “Hey,” I thought to myself. “This isn’t going to take that long after all.”

Representing the archetypical homo sapiens isn’t easy. Da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man,” from around 1490, was the artist’s attempt to map a kind of universal humanity, but it’s anything but: white, muscled and long-haired, he looks too much like Owen Wilson to serve as a placeholder for most of the world’s population, or at least for me. Over 350 years later, Le Corbusier’s Modulor comes a lot closer. But it’s still undeniably, even militantly, masculine, a strident standard-bearer for the modernist utopia.rising force, and the male principal. The downward pointing triangle is The traditional habitat of the Sprites today, of course, is sometimes referred to as the chalice. It is the symbol of water (as Nonprofitland. Finding them isn’t hard. Look for logos for organiit flows downward), the grace of heaven, and the womb. It is one zations dedicated to community-building, or health-supporting, of the most ancient symbols of female divinity. or any kind of relentlessly positive thinking. There you will find Triangles can have one of two quite opposite meanings. The these little figures by the dozens, prancing around, holding shape can imply stability, power and energy when the shape hands, embracing their families, and generally celebrating the rests on a solid base. But it results in feelings of conflict, tension universal themes of wellness, happiness, and goodness. and nervousness when the base is upside down or appears Unfortunately, they have come to have the opposite effect unstable. In many cultures the reference to the triangle includes on me. They make me sour and depressed, not least because some religious undertones: Body-Mind-Spirit or Father-Son- of my dim memories of having personally contributed to their Holy ghost or Past-Present-Future. proliferation. So, I hereby take a sacred pledge: with Da Vinci, The quest for a completely neutral approach to human rep- Corbu, and Otto Neurath as my witnesses, I swear I will never resentation led other mid-century designers to pure geometry. create another Neutered Sprite. I invite you to join me. Together, Trained as sociologist and political economist, Otto Neurath cre- we can defeat this epidemic! Research assistance by Kai Samela and Rishi Sodha

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Yoga, like feminism, is also committed to self-actualization, self-reflection, and empowerment. Yoga at its current state is almost predominantly practiced by women, however, it was initially â&#x20AC;&#x153;builtâ&#x20AC;? and practiced only by men.

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ART DECO

INSPIRATION

R E S E A RC H

After presenting the three ideas which included illustrations of the female form, the birds and the triangles. My creative group and my art directed chose one illustration chosen from the 300 drawings. It was a simple triangle with two circles that looked like two people were united. The art directors advise was to go into a more art deco realm and see what would come out. In order to understand and be inspired by the art movements I did some visual and historical research on it. I learned that Art Deco, also called style modern, an art movement in the decorative arts and architecture, originated in the 1920s. It developed into a major style in western Europe and the United States during the 1930s. Its name was derived from the Exposition International des Arts DĂŠcoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, where the style was first exhibited. Art Deco design represented modernism turned into fashion. Its products included both individually crafted luxury items and

mass-produced wares, but, in either case, the intention was to create a sleek and anti traditional elegance that symbolized wealth and sophistication. Although the style went out of fashion in most places during World War II, beginning in the late 1960s there was a renewed interest in Art Deco design. Into the 21st century Art Deco continued to be a source of inspiration in such areas as decorative art, fashion and jewelry design. Throughout my visual research I saw a pattern on both architectural, sculptural and graphic design done in the Art Deco style that they created a feeling of power and strength. Something that Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s had in its core. The art movement would be a great source of inspiration in finding ways to reuse triangles and show the feeling of power, leadership and strength through geometric shapes.

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The flatness of the art deco designs is something that inspired this group of sketches as well as the emphasis on triangles. More than anything I focused on the way Art Deco makes objects look majestic and powerful through flat geometric shapes.

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Working with a star was a big part of the illustration process. Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Hollywood use star for their names and for their logo. It was something important in the brands history. It is important for clients to see that the logo mark is evolving but yet connects to the history of the brand. Too big of a departure of what it use to be is taken negatively. On the bottom I took the idea of a star but pushed it towards a sun.

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MOVING FORWARD Stepping away from the previous ideas and going back to the origin of the brand helped me create illustrated sketches that were more appropriate to the main concept and look of the brand.

I drew about four hundred illustrated marks and having the art director inform you that it just isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t working and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to move on and do something totally different. Try it in a different medium and focus on other ideas. I focused on shapes the brand had used in the past as well as forms that it mentioned in the brands products. One geometric shape that kept reoccurring was the star. The rising star was the first push up bra invented by Mellinger Frederick and it shows up in his previews logo. The series of computer designs are a visual research that focused on the visual history of the brand. It was important to remember where the brand started, in order to move forward and it should be taken into consideration when designing.

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The idea to use a geometric star form came from the original Frederickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Hollywood logo as well as its repetitive usage in the titles of his fashion lines.

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The diamond is the hardest gemstone and one of the most valued. Diamond is a stone that is used to bring energies of longevity, balance, clarity, intensity, success, and abundance. It also brings eternity, purity, and high frequency energy.

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The diamond was added into the mix because of its meaningful connection to strength, beauty and high value. Something that I wanted to connect to femininity and push forward with the re-branding of the brand.

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Another influence from the star was a crown, connecting to the concept of women being queens, royal and powerful. The image on the right shows some of the visual imagery found when searching for inspirations.

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MAC is known for its bold colors in a wide | variety of products. It is expected to have them show their boldness through their ads. This visual language is seen in their stores, packaging, ads, color, type and imagery. The brand is a great example of how women are shown to be both powerful and feminine.

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PSYCHOLOGY

F I N A L CO LO R PA LET TE Color is very important because it sets a mood and it attracts a certain audience. In fact color goes much more in depth than that, for example in certain cultures red means passion and love, on the other hand it may also meant death. These associations we create to certain colors are influence by our history, location and even pop culture. Looking through the visual language of many clothing and women empowerment brands I learned that color sets a certain emotional flair that helps communicate the brands universe and beliefs to its clients. When searching for a color palette for Frederick’s, I wanted to communicate beauty, energy and female empowerment. The color I gravitated to was purple because of its connection to royalty. It also synced back to Frederick’s origins of be very sensual. Unfortunately, the color is also associated with magic and other worldly beliefs that are not part of the re-branding of Frederick’s. At the end there was only four colors yellow representing fellowship, a creamy red for philanthropy, green for beauty and blue for corporate use only.

CORPORATE C 45

M 15 Y 10

K 25

F E LLOWS H I P C0

M 15 Y 100 K 5

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M 40 Y 50

K 10

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M 0 Y 30

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M=19

PANTON 302 Y=00

K=00

PANTON 1935

Y=00

K=50

M=100 Y=00

K=43

PANTON 518

C=00 M=100 Y=57

K=05

PANTON 7409 C=00 M=30

C=100 M=25

C=11

PANTON 697 Y=95

K=00

C=09 M=08

Y=00

K=00

Y=00

K=50

M=100 Y=00

K=43

TEEN FEMALE PERSONAS

YOUNG ADULT FEMALE PERSONAS

High school Freshmen to senior girls

College female students BA & AA

PANTON P 119-12 C C=58

M=00 Y=09

PANTON 302 K=21

PANTON 1935 C=00 M=100 Y=57

PANTON 518 K=05

PANTON 611 C=12

M=00 Y=79

C=100 M=25

C=11

PANTON 697 K=06

C=09 M=08

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YOUNG ADULT FEMALE PERSONAS

High school Freshmen to senior girls

College female students BA & AA

Y=00

K=00

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FREDERICK’S RISING STAR

Athelas

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After several rounds of illustrating, computer editing, and adjustments, the logo was finally done. Its a simple design of six small triangles creating one larger downward triangle that represents femininity and the three core concepts the brand stands for.

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TYPOGRAPHY RESEARCH

BRAND LOGOTYPE

Finding the correct typeface that would communicate the brands mission and connect to its young audience was very difficult. The typeface also needed to show that Frederick’s was a serious brand that believed in the affect of change for the better. While at the same time it needed to express that the brand was feminine and approachable. In order to keep a hint of the past the capital R was given a serif on the leg which sticks out in a playful way. Similar to the playful typefaces Frederick’s of Hollywood has used in the past. It is very important that who ever comes across Frederick’s identifies with our past and sees how much we have grown and moved forward. Frederick’s represents women and their evolution in time better than any other brand out there. Our values have changes, our priorities have evolved and our look should represent this metamorphosis.

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3x .5 x

1x 1x

3x .5 x .5 x

.5 x

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INFORMATION

SOURCES

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CH A P TE R 2

Cohn, Michael. business2community.com. Understanding Garai, Jana. Bibliotecapleyades.net/. The book of Symbols. blog Branding Importance in Marketing Your Business. November 2015. publication. November 2015. McGrath, Liz. business2community.com. Top 5 Image-Changing Luxury Brands. November 2015. Lutz, Ashley. businessinsider.com. How Victoria’s Secret killed Frederick’s of Hollywood. November 2015.

Murphy-Hiscock, Arin. Excerpted from Birds: Explore the Symbology and Significance of These Divine Winged Messengers (Adams Media, a division of F+W Media, Inc.; January 2012) November 2015.

Chumsky, Susan. fortune.com/. Why Dove’s ‘Choose Beautiful’ Russell, Melissa. Signology.org. Crane Symbol. blog publication. November 2015. campaign sparked a backlash. November 2015. Venefica, Avia. whats-your-sign.com. Animal Symbolism: Meaning of the Owl. blog publication. November 2015.

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CH A P TE R 3 Venefica, Avia. whats-your-sign.com. Triangle Meaning and Symbolism. November 2015.

M Bostwick, Leah. sunsigns.org. Diamond Symbol Meaning. November 2015.

Bradley, Steven. vanseadesign.com. The Meaning Of Shapes: Developing Visual Grammar. November 2015.

Hill, Simone. theknot.com. A Brief History of the Flower Crown. November 2015.

Greco, Lachrista. decolonizingyoga.com. Yoga & Feminism: Why You Shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Fear It. November 2015.

McCafferty, Hugo. swide.com. The symbol of power the top 10 crowns in the world. November 2015.

The Editors of EncyclopĂŚdia Britannica. britannica.com. Art Deco. November 2015.

Pinola, Melania. lifehacker.com/. Pick the Right Color for Design or Decorating with This Color Psychology Chart. November 2015.

James, Shannon. medicinenet.com.Mind & Body Fitness Reviewed by Louise Chang, MD. November 2015.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

SOURCES

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CH A P TE R 2

Zacher, Kevin. Aeropostale 2015 campaign. techsolovely.com, Oprisco, Oleg. Personal fine art portfolio. oprisco.com. November 2015. November 2015. Giacani, Lucia. Fotografa di moda Lucia Giacani Milano. lucia- Plotnikova, Katerina. Personal fine art portfolio. 500px.com. giacani.com, November 2015. November 2015. James, Russell. Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secrets Campaign. russelljames.com. Jalala, Sazeli. Personal fine art portfolio. sazelijalal.com. November 2015. November 2015. Akehurst, John. Dove Campaign. clmuk.com. November 2015.

Forget Me Not Studio. Nefertiti Ad Campaign 2012. forget-meAlas, Mert & Piggott, Marcus. Ad Campaign Cruise. clmuk.com. not.paris/. November 2015. November 2015. Rusch, Martin. Commercial phootgraphy portfolio. martinrusch. Walker, Tim. Juicy Couture Ad Campaign. timwalkerphotography. com. November 2015. com/. November 2015. Longo, Robert. Bottega Vaneta Ad Campaign. robertlongo.com. November 2015.

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CH A P TE R 3 Johnson, Jon. Commercial phootgraphy portfolio. jonwjohn- Demarchelier, Patrick. Donna Karan Ad Campaign. demarchelier. son.com. November 2015. net. November 2015. Campion, Amber. Yoga Campaign. ambercampion.com. Coit, Justin. Tiffany & Company Ad Campaign. justincoit.com. November 2015. November 2015. Ghery, Frank. Tamara de Lempicka (1898-1980). delempicka. org. November 2015.

Alice, Ingrid. Personal fine art portfolio. ingridalice.co.za. November 2015.

Stevens, Dave. The Rocketeer Poster( 1990 - 1999). slashfilm. com. November 2015.

Unknown. MAC Cosmetics â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Wash & Dryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Campaign. Nov. 2015. Plotnikova, Katerina. Personal fine art portfolio. 500px.com. November 2015.