Contrasting colors – One ball of each of the following: (For contrasting colors I couldn’t find the exact colors I wanted in a super bulky yarn, so I used DK weight held tripled, or ARAN weight held doubled, or SUPER BULKY held single.)
CC1 toffee: Rowan felted tweed 50 g/ 175 m/191 yd, 50% merino wool 25% alpaca, 25% viscose, Color Gilt, Color No, 160, DK weight, Wraps per inch (WPI) 11. TRIPLE IT! CC2 cinnamon: same as cc1, Co. cinnamon, Co. No. 175 CC3 cream: Only scraps needed of super bulky cream wool for ears, spots, chin and tail. I used Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Chunky, Super Bulky, Co. 33511. CC4 black: Only scraps needed for nose and eyes. I used Rowan Kid classic Aran weight wool held doubled. CC5 chocolate: This is only used for hooves & a few other spots. Used same as cc1, color Phantom Co. No 153
*FAWN PONCHO*
Tension/gauge: Work 13 sts and 18 rows to measure 4x4” in St st stitch in the round using US 10.5 or 6.5 mm needles with MC.
a tiny owl knits pattern
by Stephanie Dosen
Notions: A pair of US 10.5 (6.5 mm) circular needles 16” long A pair of US 10.5 (6.5 mm) circular needles 24 or 29” long tapestry needle, stitch markers (knitter note: it may help to
use different colored markers to differentiate the beg of the round marker, the shoulder markers and the chart markers.)
Owl meter: beginner-------advanced Owl level:
Tiny owl stitch dictionary: beg: beginning CC: contrasting color (CC1, CC2, CC3 = contrasting color 1, 2, 3) dec: decrease(s) foll: follows/following Inc 1: knit into front and back of stitch. k: knit k2tog: knit the next two stitches together. MC: main color m1: lift up the bar before the next stitch front to back and place on the left needle, knit into the back of st. p: purl pm: place marker pwise: refers to slipping a stitch purlwise rem: remaining rm: remove marker sl: slip sm: slip marker ssk: slip next 2 sts knitwise onto your right needle, insert left needle purlwise into front of the sts and knit them together. St st: stockinette/stocking stitch. k a row, purl a row. If you are in the round however, then you knit every round. st(s): stitch(es)
Measurements: S/M = 22 inches wide at base measured flat/ 20 inches long measured from collar to bottom edge. M/L - 24 inches wide at base measured flat/ 22 inches long measured from collar to bottom edge. Sizes: S/M 32 – 36” bust and M/L 38 – 42” bust Both sizes are knitted the same way until you see the #. From that point on the larger directions are noted in ( ).
Pattern notes: Both sizes use 4 balls of MC wool, however the S/M only uses a little bit of the 4th ball. If you want to save some cash, you could work the collar, bottom edge and armhole openings in a contrasting color. J
Yarns used: Super bulky wool such as: MC: Debbie Bliss Donegal Chunky Tweed 100 g - 110 yds 10 mm, 100% wool, Moss green, Color No, 292127, No. of balls: 4 *see pattern notes
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When knitting the fawn chart, use stranded intarsia method. Working intarsia in the round is not ideal, but it can be done, and it will be much easier if you carry the MC wool behind as you knit across the fawn, wrapping it every few stitches. For the center of the fawn, you may find it easier to join new CC wool at the beginning of each chart row and break it at the end. As for any places that seem overly awkward, don’t be afraid to just knit them in a comfortable color and then go over the top with a duplicate stitch with the correct color after the poncho is finished. This is suggested for the hooves J Ready? Let’s go! Ribbed collar: Begin with 16” circ needles & switch to longer when necessary. With size US 10.5 needles and MC, CO 72 sts, place marker, and join in the round. rib round(s): *k1, p1 repeat from * repeat rib round 6 more times. (total of 7 rib rounds) round 1: *k9, m1 rep from * (80 sts) Now place shoulder markers as follows: round 2: k 20, pm, k 40, pm, k to end of round. You should have 3 markers at this point, beg of round marker, and 2 shoulder markers. Cont in St st (k every round) and work as foll:
round 3: *knit and stop 1 stitch before next marker, Inc 1, sm, Inc 1, rep from * then knit to end of round. (84 sts) round 4: knit repeat rounds 3 and 4, five times. (104 sts) round 15: *knit and stop 1 stitch before next marker, Inc 1, sm, Inc 1, k4, place new marker, knit 41 sts of chart starting with row 1, place new marker, k5, Inc 1, sm, Inc 1, then knit to end of round. New markers denote chart beg & end. Cont in St st, working chart between markers on every round, meanwhile on odd rounds/rows work shoulder inc as foll: *k and stop 1 st before shoulder marker, Inc1, sm, Inc1*, k to chart marker, work chart, repeat from * - *, then knit to end of round. # On chart row 19 (25) Skip the shoulder increases this round. On chart row 21 (27) Work the shoulder increases as normal. On chart row 22 (28) From this point on, stop all increases. S/M (144 sts). M/L (156 sts) Leave shoulder markers in place until further notice and continue working in St st until chart is finished. After chart is finished, remove chart markers and knit 4 (10) rounds in MC before separating for armholes.
Working the front in rows: Place live front stitches onto a working needle and join wool with RS facing. Work these 62 (68) front stitches in St st for a total of 28 (30) rows. You will finish with a purl row. Joining front and back into the round again: Because the rounds used to start in the center back, you will have 1 more row on one side of the armholes. Ignore this annoying glitch that happens with spiral knitting, it will not be noticeable once we get the edges on! J
Next round: (remove shoulder markers as you go) 1. Slip live back stitches back onto a working needle. 2. Knit across front sts and when you get to the final stitch, knit across the armhole gap into the first stitch of the back. 3. Knit across the back stitches. 4. Knit across the next armhole gap by knitting into the first of the front sts. You are now in the round. (144 sts) (156 sts) Place marker. This denotes the new round beginning. Work decrease round as foll: S/M *k7, k2tog repeat from * (128 sts) M/L *k10, k2tog repeat from * (143 sts) rib round: *k1, p1 repeat from * repeat rib round 6 more times. Bind off loosely in rib pattern. Armhole edging flaps: Work each armhole as foll: Outside top flap: worked with size US 10.5 needles and MC. RS facing, join wool and pick up 17 (19) sts along the outside edge of the armhole opening. Turn and work in rows as foll: row 1: WS *p1, k1 repeat from * row 2: *k1, p1 repeat from * Repeat rows 1 and 2, five times. Bind off in rib pattern. Inside bottom flap: worked w/ size US 10.5 needles & CC1. RS facing, join wool and pick up 15 (17) sts along the inside edge of the arm opening. Turn and work in rows as foll: row 1: WS *p1, k1 repeat from * row 2: *k1, p1 repeat from * Repeat rows 1 and 2, five times. Bind off in rib pattern. Now you have two flaps competing with each other. Tuck CC1 inside flap down under and let MC outside flap rest on top. Whipstitch along the short side edges of both flaps to secure them down. Turn poncho inside out to do CC1 flap.
Armholes & working the back in rows: row 1: k to first shoulder marker, sm, k5, turn. row 2: p5, sm, purl to next shoulder marker, sm, p5, turn. From now: Sl 1st st kwise on k rows, and sl 1st st pwise on p rows. Leaving the front stitches on a long piece of waste yarn, work 82 (88) back stitches in St st for 26 (28) more rows. Now break yarn and put the back stitches on waste yarn. © fawn poncho published by tiny owl press october 2010 Items made from this pattern are not to be sold commercially. Thanks
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*FAWN CHART* (start at bottom right on row 1)
Color and symbol key: cc1 toffee, cc2 cinnamon, cc3 cream, cc4 black, cc5 chocolate Hey, when I finished my fawn he looked totally mangled at first! Intense blocking & “fixing” holes and crumples with duplicate stitch or tacking is a crucial step for most of us! Don’t give up ok?
Important notes about the chart: 1. Start at bottom right corner and read right to left. 2. Work chart using stranded intarsia method. Ie: carry your wool in some places, other times leave wool in sections. It will help to carry MC with you across the fawn, that way you wont have to join new MC wool at end of chart each time.
Yay fawn-tastic! Now let’s off to the forest together wearing our fawn-chos! Love, Stephanie xoxo
3. While working chart, work all stitches in the color of the square and ignore the symbols. 4. Apply symbols afterward in the suggested color using duplicate stitch or embroidery where noted. 5. Work all symbols in the same thickness as you knit the wool with. Ie: if you hold the yarn tripled to knit with it, then hold the yarn tripled to embroider with it. 6. To make white spots round, make a running stitch, and then another running stitch overlapping the first. 7. At the last minute I stuck a little white tail on. J
Stephanie Dosen is an American singer living in London with her partner, two CATS, one DOG, and recently several GNOMES have moved in as well. Come see more tiny owl knits patterns on etsy, ravelry & at www.tinyowlknits.com.
© fawn poncho published by tiny owl press october 2010 Items made from this pattern are not to be sold commercially. Thanks!
hoot, she did I saw her do it.
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