Road Trippin' The Great Ocean Road

By Jessica Palmer

A Bucket List Aussie Road Trip With a Little Something for Everyone

Australia is too large to see in a week-long road trip, but a leisurely week-long drive down it’s iconic Great Ocean Road packs a lot of features into 243km.

It was a blustery day when I first visited Bells beach. The sky was overcast, threatening to turn an even darker shade of grey. The wind was unpleasant, blowing directly from the shore and peppering my young legs with yellow sand. So I hid under my parent’s oversized towel and sulked.

This memory came back to me as we drove towards the iconic surf beach, some 34 years later. I smiled to myself at the memory of a young girl hiding beneath her dad’s towel. ‘’What are you smiling at?’’ my husband asked. I couldn’t really explain it. ‘’Oh you know, just thinking,’’ I replied.

Bell’s Beach

Bell’s Beach was our first stop on the iconic Great Ocean Road, just south of Melbourne and stretching 243km from Torquay to Allansford. Although technically, you can drive it in a day, we have a whole week to explore its beaches, national parks, dramatic coastline and wildlife. This epic road trip from our home in Queensland has been a bucket list item for a few years.

Bells Beach on the Great Ocean Road

Jessica Palmer

‘’Ugghhh stairs,’’ I moaned. ‘’Yes, stairs!’’ my seven-year-old son says excitedly. What a difference three decades makes. Although I wonder if he and his sister will be so pleased about them when it comes time to walk back up them, rather than down. The feeling of dread vanished quickly as I stood at the top of the stairs, waiting for another family to ascend the last run before heading down ourselves.

The scene is dramatic, a small bay between two green headlands, contrasting yellow sand and the swells from the Southern Ocean producing the outstanding surf that is Bells Beach. I was now excited about heading down those stairs.

Although too rough for young kids to swim, they had a great time playing at the edges of the water as we strolled from one headland to another, exploring the rocky outcrop at the other end.

Barefoot and in bathers, we discovered birds nesting in a small overhanging shelf and searched for crabs in the rocks left behind by the outgoing tide. The kids played in the sand and I sat and watched the surfers.

This is why you shouldn’t do the Great Ocean Road in one day. In one day, there is no time to linger and enjoy.'

View from the 12 Apostles viewing deck on the Great Ocean Road

Jessica Palmer

Happily exhausted and hungry, we all trudge back up the stairs. The kids don’t complain anywhere near as much as I thought they would, even though their slow, plodding steps show they are tired.

We go through the process of getting everything and everyone in the car ... wet clothes and towels in the back, kids buckled in, confiscate a mini-bucket half-filled with sand and last but not least, adults flop into their seats in the front. We look at each other, both in need of caffeine.

We don’t have a destination in mind, the plan is just to drive the road. I thought we would drive for an hour or so, but not even seven minutes down the road I see a sign that makes my heart sing. I yell and point excitedly, ‘’Chocolate!’’

Our youngest who has nearly dozed off immediately jerks her head up. ‘’Chocolate?’’ she asks excitedly, instantly awake. ‘’Yes please!’’’ yells my son, a little too loudly.

We see another sign, it informs us to turn right for the ‘’Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice- Creamery”. Could today get any better?

Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie & Ice-Creamery

We park the car in a surprisingly large parking lot. Exactly how big is this place? Turns out as far as chocolate and ice-cream shops go, this one is huge. A sign warns us to watch out for children, ducks and oompa-loompas and although unfortunately, I didn’t spot the last of those three things, we did spot three bright kangaroo sculptures with various candy and ice-cream toppings. It’s starting to feel a little surreal.

Built in 2016, the Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice-Creamery certainly wasn’t here the last time I visited three decades ago. We walk into a spectacular showroom filled with what I imagine is to be thousands of chocolates and desserts. This is a great opportunity to buy a gift.

Although we timed it wrong, families can join in daily hosted tasting sessions, adult-free junior chocolatiere classes, high teas and rocky road making sessions. You can also watch the Chocolatiers at work through giant viewing windows.

Ridiculously large Ice-Cream at the Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice-Creamery

Jessica Palmer

The Chocolatiers are part of the Cocoa Horizons program, supporting farmers and communities and ensuring their cocoa is sustainably sourced.

Due to the Victorian heat, we opt for ice-cream over chocolate. A word of warning, the serving sizes here are ridiculously large. One scoop really is enough, especially for a small child. Loaded up with ice-creams in both cones and cups, we quickly realize that although the all-day cafe is large, it’s also busy at this time of day. There are no tables left!

No worries, we head outside and have a picnic on the grass. Our grass seat turned out to be a better option as the kids went wild as soon as the ice -cream ran out. Clearly the owners are aware of the effects of chocolate and ice-cream on children, as they have built a fence around a large grassy area, added a sandpit and walk through garden, and have thrown in some soft round balls. All in all, it’s a fantastic way for parents to relax and the kids to go wild within the confines of the convenient fence. It’s the perfect opportunity to top up caffeine levels.

By now it’s mid-afternoon on day one of our Great Ocean Road seven-day adventure, and we have only travelled 12.4 km since our starting point in Torquay. We’re staying at a YouCamp near Lorne (learn more about YouCamp on page 42), and decide to head to camp and call it a day. The short journey was supposed to take around 40 minutes, but we were distracted by the stunning beaches we passed in Anglesea and by the Memorial Arch at Eastern View, where you can take your obligatory road trip selfie under the arch that proudly displays the words, ‘’Great Ocean Road’’.

JUST A FEW OF THE HIGHLIGHT ON THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD...

Lorne

Lorne is a charming, artsy town that has it all, from bush, beaches and waterfalls. There are no less than 10 waterfalls within 10 km of Lorne and the main beach is superb. I don’t think we could have chosen a nicer place to camp.

There are plenty of different accommodation options and some really great cafes but be warned, visitor numbers swell in Lorne during the summer school holiday periods and getting a parking spot can be frustrating.

If you time your visit from the 17th - 31st October, you will experience the Lorne Sculpture Biennale, Victoria’s largest free public outdoor sculpture event. The Biennale celebrates the best in contemporary Australian and international sculpture in one vibrant festival.

Views from the top of the Cape Otway Lightstation

Jessica Palmer

Apollo Bay

Sometimes referred to as ‘’paradise by the sea’’, Apollo Bay is around midway along the Great Ocean Road so it’s a great place to base yourself. Just a few kilometres from town are rainforest filled valleys, streams and waterfalls.

Watersports are popular here with plenty of swimming, surfing and fishing and the walks down the road a little further at Cape Otway are said to be some of the most breathtaking in the country, with petrified forests, fireflies and some of the highest ocean cliffs in Victoria.

Cape Otway Lightstation

A little detour is required to visit the Cape Otway Lightstation but oh, what a detour it is! The road lazily winds through the Cape Otway National Park and if you are suddenly confronted by a bunch of cars parked on the side of the already narrow road, with travellers standing around looking upwards, it’s worth pulling over too. This usually means koalas in the trees!

Built in 1848, Cape Otway Lighthouse is the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. There’s an entry fee here which I initially balked at, but concluded later that it was worth every cent as it’s not ‘’just’’ a lighthouse that you’re visiting.

Families can roam the surrounds on a self-guided walk, discovering the historic buildings and learning about the history of the Cape Otway Lightstation.

The best part is that you’re still allowed inside the lighthouse, where you can tramp up the spiral staircase to be assaulted by strong winds at this height, and providing magnificent views of the dramatic Victorian coastline.

Cape Otway Lightstation

Jessica Palmer

12 Apostles

Dramatic 24 hours a day, but particularly glorious at dusk and dawn, the 12 apostles in the Port Campbell National Park is a well-known highlight on the Great Ocean Road. The force of nature over time has eroded softer sections of the limestone, which eventually formed caves that became arches. When these arches collapsed they left behind the massive stacks that we see today.

There are only eight remaining stacks since the 12 Apostles were first discovered, with majestic cliffs rising around 70 metres high against the force of the ocean that surrounds them. Pay a visit to the Twelve Apostles Centre for parking and walk through the tunnel under the Great Ocean Road to access the various lookouts with breathtaking views. If you’re up for a splurge, scenic helicopter flights can be taken as well.

Loch Ard Gorge and London Bridge

The 12 Apostles aren’t the only dramatic natural features along this road. Less than 10 minutes drive further on from the Apostles is Loch Ard Gorge and the Razorback. Loch Ard Gorge is particularly worthy of a visit as you can descend down steps into the gorge for a different viewpoint. It’s also a great break for the kids as there is plenty of sand to play in down here.

You will pass through the completely charming town of Port Campbell (I’d love to spend a week here) before reaching the London Bridge, which made headlines in January of 1990 when part of the bridge collapsed, leaving visitors stranded, although uninjured, only to be rescued by helicopter.

Loch Ard Gorge

Jessica Palmer

There is so much more …

There is so much more to see and do on the Great Ocean Road from hiking, small-town charm, nature, wildlife and ziplining through the trees at Otway fly. Don’t let it be 30 years between visits like I did!

GETTING THERE & STAYING THERE

The Great Ocean Rd begins in Torquay, one hour and 20 minutes drive south of Melbourne. If flying into Melbourne, car hire can be pre-booked to pick up at the airport.

Many families choose to drive themselves and either camp, or stay in a range of accommodation along the way. During peak season, you will need to pre-book accommodation, sometimes many months in advance. Accommodation is available from camping through to luxury.