From the Cultural Heart to Tomb Raider Temples in Cambodia

From Phnom Penh, the cultural capital to Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, Cambodia is definitely one for your family bucket list...

A monk passes us on the steps, his bright orange robes blend in with the bright gold-gilded exterior of the temple. The colours give a sense of warmth, as does his friendly smile as we pass in opposite directions.

The kids race up the steps in front, shouting a loud “hello” in response to his nod of the head as a way of greeting when two parties don’t share the same language.

The steps lead to the entrance of the Golden Temple (aka Wat Kean Kleang), which is located some 15km from central Phnom Penh and until five minutes ago, we didn’t know it existed.

We had planned on visiting the Royal Palace but timed the opening hours wrong. As we stood staring at the closed gates to the palace, one of the many tuk-tuk drivers approached us and asked if we would like a tour of Phnom Penh while we waited for the palace to re-open.

We agreed on US $10 and climbed in, relieved not to be hoofing it in this humidity. The Golden Temple was our first stop and my personal favourite. Not just because the entire inside of the Buddhist temple was decorated in ornate paintings, including the ceiling, but because our daughter was blessed by a monk.

At least I think she was!

The Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Jessica Palmer

The monk doesn’t speak English and we don’t speak Khmer, yet he beckons us over with a friendly ‘’follow me’’ gesture. Pointing to myself and my daughter, he indicates for us to kneel on the ground like himself.

Tying a red cord around mine, and then my daughter’s much younger wrist, he begins talking in a very monotone way, almost chant-like. I catch some English words such as ‘’blessing’’ and ‘’good’’ however, for the most part, I am blissfully clueless but very touched nonetheless.

The afternoon passes in a blur of markets, barge crossings on the mighty Mekong Delta, temples, ice-cream breaks and a tree full of cute monkeys of whom showed me their rear ends every time I lifted the camera. Although I’m sure it was unintentional, the kids especially found this hilarious. Maybe the monkeys were just sick of being gawked at.

We didn’t make it to the Royal Palace that day, or the next. In fact, we didn’t get there until 10 days later after a whirlwind trip up to Siem Reap to experience the wonder of the Ankgor Temples and down to Koh Rong Island off the coast of Cambodia. When we finally did make it to the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh, we wondered why we didn’t visit sooner.

The Royal Palace is reminiscent of Bangkok’s Grand Palace in Thailand, although it doesn’t seem as large, and is therefore easier to manage with young kids whose legs tire easily in the heat. It’s the official residence of the King of Cambodia so some parts are closed to the public, but visitors can view the throne hall, surrounding buildings and the Silver Pagoda, aka Wat Preah Keo or Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

Heading into Ta Prohm (aka Tomb Raider) Temple

Jessica Palmer

The Silver Pagoda features a floor covered in five tonnes of shiny silver with an Italian marble staircase leading up to it. There are all sorts of goodies in here, including a life-size solid-gold Buddha covered in 2086 diamonds, the largest weighing 25 carats.

I can’t prove any of this as photography is strictly not permitted inside the Silver Pagoda so you will have to just take my word for it, as I took the guide’s word about the obscene amount of diamonds.

Siem Reap & The Angkor Temples

Getting around Cambodia is actually pretty easy! As a compromise between the cheapest mode of transport from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and the most expensive, we chose to hire a driver for the 5.5 hour road trip.

Our impeccably dressed driver could not speak English but our hotel helped us out with instructions. He phoned his son and indicated for us to take his phone for any other interpretations. This turned out to be a blessing as his son, Sareth, was a tuk-tuk driver in Siem Reap. Sareth agreed to pick us up the next day for a temple tour.

Enjoying a tuk-tuk ride in Siem Reap

Jessica Palmer

I thought Siem Reap, the city that services the Angkor temples, was all about Angkor Wat … boy was I wrong. There is plenty to do for families in and around Siem Reap and I would love to come back and see more of this small, vibrant city.

I know that your hotel is ‘’just a place to sleep’’, but a great place to sleep really helps you enjoy a destination and we loved our family room at the Ibis Styles.

Although the bathroom was a little small, the Ibis Styles is very modern with spacious rooms. The kids had their own room and TV, while our room featured a swing chair chained to the ceiling. The extra space was a huge blessing when I was struck down with traveller’s gastro and needed some peace to recover.

I’m not sure why, but I was surprised Sareth, our tuk-tuk driver was waiting for us when we waltzed out of the Ibis the next day. I expected him to be a no-show because, well, it was all too easy. But here he was, 10 minutes early and ready to go.

Wandering the grounds of Ta Prohm Temple

Jessica Palmer

We learned about Sareth’s life in Cambodia as he spoke of his children. Education is not free here, making it very hard to break the cycle of poverty and we could hear the pride in his voice as he spoke of their achievements.

To avoid the tour buses, we decided to visit the temples at noon when a lot of visitors take a break for lunch. Instead, Sareth took us on a tour of Tonle Sap Lake and its floating villages. Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia.

In the rainy season from June to October, the mighty Mekong River fills it, reaching depths of up to 14 metres. The floating villages and their welcoming people are fascinating, with a hub clearly set up for tourists like us. Nevertheless, it was a fun visit involving tuk-tuks, boats and wildlife which we all enjoyed immensely.

Lunchtime and the afternoon saw us finally visiting the famous temples we came to Cambodia to see, Ta Prohm (aka Tomb Raider temple) and Angkor Wat. Of course, I’m well aware there are many more amazing temples to explore here, but I wanted to make sure the kids enjoyed the experience which means taking the time to enjoy the temples we visited rather than rush through in the heat.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus

Jessica Palmer

Ta Prohm was made famous by the original Tomb Raider movie starring Angelina Jolie and it is here that you will witness nature growing in, around and through the ruins. Nature and temple have collided to create beautiful scenes of green on brown and being honest, I can’t imagine it any other way.

This temple is particularly amazing for kids as although some sections are off-limits, families can still roam through the corridors and ruins at their own pace, allowing the children the freedom to be little explorers.

Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building. Built-in the first half of the 12th century, it’s amazing that it’s still standing today and even more amazing that we are allowed to wander through it. Angkor Wat involves a lot of walking and at this point of the day, feet were dragging and the kids were asking for shoulder rides.

Flashes of orange glimpsed through the hallway pillars indicate the monks are nearby, and many people come here to be blessed by them in such a monumental place.

I’ve found the words hard to come by to describe these temples, as my words don’t do them justice. Glimpses of orange, the smell of incense, the chatter of tourists, cheeky monkeys, and the clash of nature and man-made structure. It all combines to create one truly memorable experience.

The Siem Reap Night Market

Jessica Palmer

I sat in a quiet courtyard in the centre of Angkor Wat and closed my eyes, my back leaning against a wall, my son and daughter leaning against me as they too, rested their legs. Taking a deep breath in and out, I tried to imagine what it would have been like all those centuries ago in this exact same spot.

As we walked back towards the large moat that surrounds Angkor Wat, the sun was noticeably lower in the sky. Light was now shining through the ornate pillars, leaving long shadows of light on the ground and illuminating my daughter’s dark blonde hair from behind as she pulled faces at her brother. The scene is memorable and words don’t do the memory justice. But it’s this memory that’s my favourite.

Our last day in Siem Reap was spent walking the streets on foot, visiting markets and catching a performance of Phare, the Cambodian circus of acrobats (no animals), a show not to be missed.

Koh Rong Island off the coast of Sihanoukville was our next stop. I had hoped to draw comparisons to other beautiful beaches experienced in south-east Asia such as in Thailand and Vietnam ...but that’s a story for another day.

The quiet courtyard at Angkor Wat

Jessica Palmer

Where to Stay

Phnom Penh

The VMansion Boutique Hotel is a great affordable option in Phnom Penh. The hotel is eco-friendly without the bragging, makes great use of their space with helpful staff, and features hand-painted wall art and great food.

The Raffles Hotel Le Royal is a memorable luxury option. The legendary Raffles service is abundant and kids are welcomed here with an extensive children’s menu and shallow pool. This hotel is pure class at every corner.

Siem Reap

The Ibis Styles Hotel is a fantastic affordable family option in Siem Reap. This modern hotel is stylish with an international standard restaurant downstairs and a night market directly across the road.

The Raffles Hotel dÁngkor is Siem Reap’s luxury Raffles offering and is conveniently located only 10 minutes drive to both Angkor Wat and Siem Reap’s international airport. Although your wallet will be significantly lighter, you can’t go wrong here.

A typical temple alter in Cambodia

Jessica Palmer