Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

By Jessica Palmer

Disconnect to Reconnect Down the Coconut Tree Lined Highway

A coconut tree-lined highway that ends with white sand, turquoise water and not a soul in sight... ...

Unless a well-fed cow taking a siesta under the shade of a large banyan tree counts.

This is Port Olry on the island of Espiritu Santo and this is Vanuatu at its finest. By finest, I do not mean luxury. You will be hard-pressed to find that here. Mains electricity hasn’t made it this far down the island so the locals use a combination of solar power and coconut oil powered generators.

But it certainly is fine. Better than fine actually. People pay top dollar for this kind of seclusion and view. You won’t need to here though as resorts haven’t been allowed to buy up the land. Here you will find small, comfortable, family-owned bungalows. Some of these bungalows are built into the trees allowing you for at least one night, to be a kid again.

I close my eyes and rejoice in the feeling of the warm sun on my face and the gentle swaying motion of the hammock beneath me.

Crunch, Crunch. The moment is interrupted by my youngest, cuddled up to my side and loudly chewing an Arnott’s Scotch Finger biscuit in my ear. Actually, this calm cuddle is a nice change from the energizer bunny fueled tornado that she usually is.

“I’m still hungry. Can I have another one?” she whispers in my ear. ‘’Ummmm….’’ Before I can answer, the chef at Chez Louis Restaurant, a sandy floored, casual establishment who were thoughtful enough to install the hammock we are lying in, appears with a fruit smoothie for the kids.

The beautiful Lonnoc Beach on the island of Espiritu Santo

Jessica Palmer

He apologises, explaining that he sent someone to get some steak over two hours ago but he ‘’seems to have gotten distracted.’’ The steak we ordered is off the menu. Being honest, this isn’t really uncommon in Vanuatu but I’m sure I’ll have plenty more opportunities to try out the well known Santo beef.

We order a simple fish, chips and salad instead. The meal is superb, sourced from local ingredients with the fish caught just hours earlier. Farm to plate is typical here, although not to be trendy, but because that’s the way it is.

The Island of Espiritu Santo is the largest of Vanuatu’s islands, but certainly not the most populated. I wasn’t surprised to learn that James A. Michener based his Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, ‘’Tales of the South Pacific’’ on his observations here. He was stationed as a lieutenant commander for the US Navy in WWII and it’s really not hard to see why one could be inspired on this beautiful island.

Espiritu Santo (or just Santo to the locals) is only a three-hour direct flight from Brisbane, or 50 minutes from the ‘’main’’ island of Efate. Port Olry is around an hour drive from the airport and main town of Luganville, straight down the coconut tree-lined highway. When the sealed road runs out, you have reached Port Olry.

We actually found Port Olry by accident, staying only 10 minutes up the road at the utterly relaxing Lonnoc Eco Beach Bungalows, a set of bungalows sitting no further back than 30 metres from the divine, clear, sheltered waters of Lonnoc Beach.

The bungalows are simple with bright mosquito nets surrounding the bed to keep pesky visitors away. Powered by solar, there are no outlets in the room, so you will need to charge your phone at the restaurant charging station. Most of the bungalows have their own bathroom.

Champagne Beach

Jessica Palmer

WiFi is hit and miss so don’t plan on doing too much work or being able to post hourly updates on Instagram. However, don’t let this put you off, it’s easy to put your phone down here. Save this for when you return home as this island is purely for disconnecting to reconnect with your family.

Accommodation down this end of the island mostly consists of clean, simple, family-run bungalows that although lacking in luxury, are oozing in appeal. In fact, it’s the lack of luxuries that make this place so special.

The bungalows have charming thatched roofs that do their job of keeping out the weather when an evening storm rolls in after a perfectly sunny, bluesky day.

I thoroughly enjoy watching these quick visiting storms from the front porch of our bungalow. The kids are so exhausted from a day swimming in blue holes and snorkelling in the ocean that they sleep right through the brief tropical downpour.

Sharing a bed, they sleep sprawled out in their underwear, blissfully unaware of the thunder cracks and din of the insects once it passes over.

Organically grown Cocoa on Aore Island, five minutes boat trip from Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu

Jessica Palmer

We enjoy the moment together, from the view of two plastic chairs on the hut’s covered porch.

There is plenty to do on Santo, with all of the highlights easily navigated to by yourself with a hire car.

Snorkel over dumped military vehicles at Million Dollar Point.

Seven decades ago, the US Army dumped millions of dollars of equipment not far from the shoreline at what is today known as, Million Dollar Point. Both older kids and adults will be enthralled snorkelling over bright coloured fish swimming around barely submerged tractors and other machinery.

Young kids can still enjoy Million Dollar Point as well. There is plenty of sand to play in and grass to picnic on. When the tide is low, they can stroll around ‘discovering’ the items in the sand. Shoes are a must here!

View from our bungalow porch at Lonnoc Beach Eco Bungalows

Jessica Palmer

This is a really unique thing to do in Santo and if you have your PADI Open Water Diving Certification … even better! (Check out our article on Scuba Diving for families in this issue)

Stroll Around the Luganville Markets

The local produce market in Luganville is the place to stock up on fruit and vegetables….including peanuts and coconuts!.

The produce comes fresh from the farm that morning and it’s open seven days a week until noon. Close by is the Sarakata River and the remains of the steel sea walls built during WWII.

Ride With Santo Horse Adventures

Santo Horse Adventures is primarily, a horse rescue facility. Megan, the founder, has personally rescued and rehabilitated all of the horses herself and the ride is a unique experience from the moment you arrive at the rustic western-style ranch.

The trail takes you through tropical rain forest, lush green jungle, a pretty freshwater creek mangrove tunnel and out for a swim in the aqua blue waters of Lope Lope Beach.

Megan’s horses are suitable for both first time and experienced riders and kids will need to be over six years of age to do the trail ride. Pony rides are available for younger children.

View from the back of a horse at Santo Horse Adventures

Jessica Palmer

Jump Into Nanda Blue Hole

Nanda Blue Hole is one of the islands’ stunning freshwater blue holes accessible to tourists. Both kids and adults will enjoy swimming in the cool, jewel-coloured waters here.

There are a few fish around the edges of the crystal clear water hole so don’t forget your goggles. Nanda Blue Hole features a boardwalk to picnic on, platforms to jump off, modern toilets and a café. All of this is surrounded by beautifully kept gardens and lush jungle.

Swing Into Riri Blue Hole

Riri Blue hole is another stunning freshwater blue hole. Due to how unique both blue holes are, it’s definitely worth a visit to both.

Riri Blue hole is surrounded by lush green jungle, complete with hanging vines and wildlife. There is a jumping platform and swing rope if you dare and if you’re lucky, there might be some local kids around to show you how it’s done.

Enjoying Nanda Blue Hole

Jessica Palmer

Unplug at Lonnoc Beach

If you’re not staying in the bungalows here, make a day of it and visit the lovely sandy floor restaurant at Lonnoc Eco Beach Bungalows.

This sheltered and calm beach is great for little kids with plenty of sand to play in. Kayaks are free to use if staying here but day visitors will need to hire them.

Swim at Champagne Beach

The cruise ships dock regularly at this pretty, curved beach and if time your visit on cruise ship day, you will experience the vibrant market that greets the disembarking passengers.

If you visit on any other day, you may be sharing the beach with just a stray cow or pig.

Pay a Visit to Port Olry

Pay a Visit to Port OlryPort Olry has one of the most picturesque beaches in Santo and due to the fantastic snorkelling in the calm waters, it’s great for all ages.

If you’re not staying in the area, you can set up for the day at Chez Louis Restaurant and swing in the hammock whilst watching the kids play in the sand. When the tide is low, wade across to the neighbouring islands for even more snorkelling.

Once you arrive, you won’t want to leave. Don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Sunset Kayak on Lonnoc Beach

Jessica Palmer