Fashion london Issue 14 - ss16 and wedding special

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London

F ashion

London’s Fashion Guide for Him & her

April/May 2016

ss16 and wedding special




PAUL COSTELLOE www.paulcostelloe.com


FA K E N O T H I N G

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FashionLondon editor

editor’s

Letter The long yearned after, and always gratefully received ss16 has finally graced our beautiful city. And with it we bring you our ss16 and wedding themed issue. It goes without saying that the two naturally complement each other. We have also squeezed in a bit of a royal theme as The Queen reaches her milestone 90th birthday this month. See our Fashion and Economy feature on page 40. We feature two very sensational woman in this issue who have both made their mark on the fashion industry, although in quite different ways. The still stunning Cindy Crawford and the of course incredibly talented Rihanna now both take their turn in creating interesting reading in Fashion London.

In this issue we present to you the broadness of wedding fashion! From alternative wear in our Urban feature on page 48, to sustainable wear on page 46, to head wear on page 64, and of course the the traditional wear for the groom on page 30. It's now definitely time to show London your ss16 wear so do check out Fashion Favourites on page 38 and Trend of the Moment on page 26. www.fashionlondon.co

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FashionLondon editor

editor’s

picks www.ukversace.com £665

www.uk.burberry.com £3,995

www.manoloblahnik.com £640

www.brand.pringlescotland.com Jacket £795 Cardigan £395 Trousers £325

www.gemporia.com £714 www.christopherward.co.uk £2,275 FashionLondon 7


FashionLondon contents

Contents

unique for April/May 2016 12 THE EMANCIPATION OF RIRI 18 White gold 30 Targeting the Traditional 34 Designing for Royalty 36 Unleash your creativity at London’s renowned fashion college 52 Cindy Crawford: Still Fashion Fabulous at 50

Regular Features 10 CATWALK INDULGENCE: aw16 Flashback Flash Forward 26 TREND OF THE MOMENT: Spring Minimalism 38 FASHION FAVOURITES: New Season New Styles 40 FASHION AND ECONOMY: God save the royal fashion retail bonanza!

Fashion London

44 STYLE SPOTTING: M is for a mixture of men 46 SUSTAINABLE FASHION: Reincarnating that ‘once in a lifetime’ wedding dress

www.fashionlondon.co contact@fashionlondon.co | advertising@fashionlondon.co 0203 603 3169

48 URBAN FASHION: A Modern Fairy Tale

Publisher – FLM Ltd

56 FASHION AND CHARITY: Stand tall in your party frock for Refuge 58 FASHION and TECHnology: Smart and Stylish

Editor-in-Chief – Clare Susannah Farmer Cover Image – Rihanna Graphic Designer – Nicholas Birkett www.smart-page.co.uk Photographer – Jose Tio

62 STYLE IN MOTION: A century of stylish weddings

Contributors – Abi Adeosun, Mark Cullum, Kerry Law, Karen Anne-Overton

64 UP AND COMING DESIGNER: Libka SafrMilliner arrives in London FashionLondon 8


MADE IN ENGLAND LUXURY BODY WASH FOR MEN & WOMEN BY APPLE & BEARS www.appleandbears.com


FashionLondon style

by Mark Cullum

aw16 Flashback - Flash Forward

As our last issue hit the streets just before London Fashion Week, we missed the chance to share our highlights from the aw16 catwalks. With those fashion footpaths in full swing across the city and our beady eye centred directly on the best of the best, here’s our round-up as we flashback to February and flash forward to this winter’s collections. Ashish Candy-carnival-babes-from-space. That was the first reaction upon seeing these audacious models head-to-toe representing the spectrum and crowned with the most tremendous of afros (a hairstyle we love to see celebrated). In short, we loved it. This was unashamedly brazen, ridiculous and fun. A sequin-lovers lover with denim, dresses and tops covered in those little things. If quiet and chic is what you’re after, then you’re probably at the wrong party. If Ashish’s indulgent sense of style is right up your street, then we’ll be sure to see you on the dancefloor.

Anya Hindmarch This playful collection of luxury winter fashions took us to a Tetris-like world sporting pixels on stylish outerwear. Presented on a cubic stage it was loud, proud and kitsch but with the typical Hindmarch chic overlay. Navigating a Pac-Man world, we saw quirky accessories and fried eggs on coats. Known for the shows at London Fashion Week, the creative label did not disappoint with Anya herself proving the value of her numerous industry awards and MBE title. It was nothing short of brilliant.

A.V.Robertson Oversized zip jackets in rowingstripes gave this striking collection a punk-edge, tearing apart that classic Henley-style image. Add red-velvet boots, iridescent flowers and striped gloves to match – you’ve got yourself a head-turner of a collection here. The designer, Amie Victoria Robertson, graduated barely two years ago and has clearly signified her worth of a London catwalk. Now that she’s debuted her aw16 collection with Fashion East we certainly won’t be taking our eyes off her any time soon.

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FashionLondon style Pringle of Scotland Taking knitwear to new and luxurious levels, Pringle of Scotland presented a collection that was sombre in tone, but striking in style. Cowl-neck dresses, classic knitwork and classic lingerie-esque overlays gave us a contemporary approach that embraced rich checks, oversized silhouettes and full-length pieces. The Sherpa-like outerwear showed us a more deconstructed look that fell in line with the casual elegance seen throughout this catwalk collection.

FELDER FELDER The sister duo ticked all the boxes for us this season. Teaming playful and sensual with fun, glamour and a rockstar punch – there was everything we could have asked for. FELDER FELDER presented a collection that screamed with their signature edgy-elegance. After luxe metallic looks came grungy leather ensembles that followed sultry sheer fabrics – illustrating every day-to-night weekend style you could think of. The stand-out look for us was certainly the two-piece checkerboard number with matching purse – the ultimate party choice for the winter season.

Holly Fulton The true Princess of Prints on the London catwalk did not disappoint. Fulton even gave paisley a new lease of life, which we honestly never thought possible. Offered up in prints and embroidery, large and small, this collection had a futuristic retro vibe with bold luxurious looks synonymous to the Holly Fulton label. Our favourite looks were the striking monochrome ensembles that had an air of psychedelia about them, and we never thought khaki would be so exciting, but again we were proved wrong.

Julien Macdonald This designer has a knack for making every model that graces his catwalk look like a goddess. For aw16 they looked like gladiators that had spawned from some dystopian circus wonderland, with some of whom having met Mad Max on the way. It was shocking and lascivious at times, sensual and powerful at others. Macdonald’s foray into a fantasy-fired world really struck a chord with us, and the church-style venue added wonderfully to his vision. Though it might not have been the right time or place to debut his entry into the childrenswear market, we still loved every second of it. FashionLondon 11


FashionLondon EDIT

THE OF RIRI

by Karen Anne Overton Whether shocking with sensational style choices or wowing with her pop prowess, Rihanna is many things – but never, ever boring as recently demonstrated by her collaboration with designer Manolo Blahnik .

I like being creative and ambitious. That applies to music as well as to clothes, my tattoos, and my hairstyle

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FashionLondon EDIT

You only have to take one look at Rihanna to know she is having the absolute time of her life. When the RiRi circus is in town her concerts are the hottest tickets from New York to London; among her entourage are some of the biggest names in music and fashion, including Drake and Cara Delevingne, and her style game is second to none. It is no urban myth that she can wear absolutely anything and still look incredible: from nightdresses with baseball caps, to hoodies with fluffy slippers – it all seems to work, work, work. “I like being creative and ambitious. That applies to music as well as to clothes, my tattoos, and my hairstyle,” she reveals. “I like the feeling of going my own way and exploring different things and indulging my creative instincts, getting to see the world, experiencing as much as I can from life. A little rebelliousness never hurts!” It may only be spring but 2016 has already been a pretty major year for the Barbadian superstar. Having released her eighth studio album Anti in January, which was ground-breaking for both its content and for the fact that it sold over a million on the first day, she followed up during New York Fashion Week by unleashing her first full clothing collection, Fenty x Puma, a collaboration with the sportswear brand. And then, out of nowhere, one of our favourite luxury shoe brands announced their collaboration with the prolific superstar. The collection with Manolo Blahnik is named ‘Denim Desserts’ and comprises six limited-edition designs in an array of divine denim, priced between £650 and £2,950. These shoes will be available from May 5 in the London, New York and Hong Kong stores exclusively. The line is, of course, fabulous; stiletto, lace-up ankle boots embellished with delicate beading inspired by the singer’s hand tattoos; towering, strappy heels covered in sequins and the statement piece: thigh-high, chap boots which come with a matching belt. “This is an incredibly exciting collaboration and I am absolutely thrilled with the results - working with Rihanna has been amazing and her drive, passion, creativity and style has been reflected in the designs, with fabulous results,” enthused veteran designer Blahnik. “I think everyone is FashionLondon 13


FashionLondon EDIT

going to love what they are about to see.” No doubt Rihanna’s association will prove to be as lucrative as it was for Puma, who reported a huge increase in profits after her first line of shoes for the brand, a collection of platform creepers, flew off the shelves. Put simply, everything the Umbrella singer touches turns to gold. Her success has been hard-won though, and in a world of overnight sensations Rihanna has built her empire from the bottom up, brick by brick. A protégé of hip-hop mogul Jay Z, Rihanna was only 17 when she first went into the studio to record her debut album Music of

the Sun, a dancehall-reggae inflected slice of pop. Since then she has hardly been out of the studio or the limelight and we have watched her evolve from the sweet young popstar to dance phenomenon and style icon. It should come as no surprise then that Anti is unlike anything she has released previously. Gone are those arena-worthy choruses, replaced with distorted beats, hazy melodies and layers of that trademark Caribbean drawl. Some may consider this an act of rebellion on Rihanna’s part, but it’s simply the evolution of an artist who has earnt the freedom to create and release whatever she likes regardless of FashionLondon 14

commercial marketability. “Sometimes when I look back at my work in the past and some of my most popular and most successful songs, I don’t feel a strong connection to them anymore,” Rihanna explains. “It’s like they don’t reflect who I am today. That’s why I wanted the songs on this album to have a different sensibility and have that timeless quality.” Her music may have taken a potentially risky turn but as a fashion star Rihanna is hotter than ever. Aside from the Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik collaboration, she is also the face of Dior’s Secret Garden campaign.


FashionLondon EDIT

Shot by Steven Klein in Versailles at night, the campaign is a moody and evocative dream. In the accompanying video Rihanna is devastatingly beautiful as she runs through the Salons of the Gods and dances in the Hall of Mirrors in a sequined dress and veil, carrying the Diorama bag. What’s remarkable about Rihanna is how she can transform from street-style rebel to Hollywood screen siren in the blink of an eye. Yes, she has access to the hottest designers in the world, but money can’t buy attitude and rest assured it is her confidence, charisma and effortless style and beauty that pull every FashionLondon 15


FashionLondon EDIT single one of her looks together. Take for example the stunning dress she wore to last year’s Met Gala: a gargantuan yellow velvet extravaganza with an enormous train, which took Beijing-based designer Guo Pei a painstaking two years to make. The dress would have upstaged many stars but the combination of Rihanna and several feet of embroidered fabric was formidable and made her the undeniable belle of the ball. It also sent Guo Pei’s career stratospheric; the designer was invited to join the Fédération Française de la Couture at the end of 2015. Away from the endless whirl of glamourous red carpets, RiRi is always at the hottest party in town. However, the only downside of being one of the biggest fashion and music stars in the world is that the intensity of Rihanna’s career leaves little time for romance. After several very public and intense relationships she is happy to be single, devoting her energy to friends, family and work. “I don’t really feel that I have a lot of time to give to a relationship right now at this point in my life,” says Rihanna frankly. “It wouldn’t be right for me to even try to put a guy in the position of having to follow me or deal with not having a lot of time with me. What I need is a man who is man enough not to run away!” But when the whole world is in love with you, who needs a man anyway?

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Accessories www.ButlerandWilson.co.uk Corset - Atelier Tammam www.tammam.co.uk

Photography:

JosĂŠ TiĂł

www.josetio.com Instagram: @jose_tio Stylist:

Abi Adeosun

www.fashionlondon.co Makeup:

Alicia Arias Model:

White Gold Holly

www.models1.co.uk

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Pronovias www.blushandivory.co.uk Gold eagle www.sstutter.co.uk Gold puzzle chain www.onlychildlondon.com

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Accessories www.butlerandwilson.co.uk

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Gold dress www.fuudlondon.com Hair accessory www.butlerandwilson.co.uk

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Lace Skirt Atelier Tammam www.tammam.co.uk Gold holster www.mistyseven.com Gold puzzle chain www.onlychildlondon.com

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“Genevieve” - Sarah Janks www.lestroissouers.co.uk

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Gold clutch www.butlerandwilson.co.uk

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Bird headband www.butlerandwilson.co.uk

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FashionLondon Trend

Trend of the moment

Spring Minimalism The new season introduces a blank palette so for this issue we’re taking a minimalist stance that paves the way for bolder styles in the hotter summer months. We keep it sporty for the women and tap into some retro vibes for the guys.

Men –The Retro Minimalist

We love the pared-down utility feel for guys this season. Colour takes a leap back in time with richer hues evocative of the Seventies and stylish suedes rule the texture index. You can keep it fairly demure in line with River Island’s ss16 collection (pictured) and a casual every day look that you can take from day to night.

Selected Homme Suede Bomber £170 www.houseofraser.co.uk

River Island SS16

Clarks desert boots are an absolute staple item for any man’s wardrobe and this pair in green suede are different yet versatile.

Top £26 www.next.co.uk

Desert Boots £95 www.clarks.co.uk

Wide-legged Trousers £30 www.riverisland.com

by Mark Cullum FashionLondon 26


FashionLondon Trend

Suede Sneakers £125 axelarigato.com

Woven Belt £50 www.jaeger.co.uk

Play with colours and textures for a richer and more interesting look. This is a great option for a casual night out.

Check trousers £59.95 www.whitestuff.com

Mustard Top www.topman.com

Top £26 www.next.co.uk

Women – All (White) Out Perfect for parties, garden especially, our white knight from Comptoir des Cotonniers show us this look that is perfectly tailored yet relaxed. It’s cleaner than clean and bold in its own right. Keep it athletic with trainers on the soles and whilst accessories are entirely up to you, we recommend a sleeker approach to nurture that minimalist style.

Comptoir des Cotonniers SS16

The ruched sleeves gives this Michael Kors ‘boyfriend blazer’ the perfect casual edge for your spring wardrobe.

Converse hi-tops £49.99 www.getthelabel.com

Michael Kors jacket £235 www.houseofraser.co.uk

Silk vest £175 www.aquascutum.com

Trousers www.massimodutti.com

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FashionLondon Trend

Keep the sporty vibe but adopt a holiday-look with this beautiful wrapeffect dress by Stella McCartney.

Stella McCartney £835 www.harveynichols.com

Bag £99 www.radley.co.uk

Christopher Raeburn X Clarks £80 www.clarks.co.uk

Principles by Ben De Lisi £22 www.debenhams.com

Watch £22 www.next.co.uk

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Fashion’s 1

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An established jeweller living and working in Oxfordshire with an instinctive talent. Bridget produces small run collections of handmade precious and semi precious jewellery, www.bridgetwheatley.com showcases the individuality, quality and wearability of her jewellery. A bespoke service is available.

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Dincwear is making a huge impact on the dance scene with many professional dancers, such as “Strictly” star Karen Clifton (pictured in Dincwear Harems With Hidden Shorts), choosing to wear the brand and its eyecatchingproducts. Available at: www.dincwear.eu

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6. Kat B London Kat B London creates unique contemporary pieces using silver, gold and gemstones. Inspired by the shapes and textures of nature, she contrasts the dramatic effect of oxidised silver, gold and gemstones. Quote ‘FASHION’ for 20% off at http://katb.london, email kat@katb.london FashionLondon 29


FashionLondon edit

Targeting thet radit ional by Mark Cullum

Bespoke Services at Gieves and Hawkes

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FashionLondon edit Inside Gieves and Hawkes

If there are gentlemen out there considering an off-the-rack and budget approach for a wedding style, please give Fashion London just five minutes to try and convince you otherwise. It’s not just the bride’s big day here, and it’s time for the men to take a stand. Being the best groom possible comes down to remembering those lines, controlling those two left feet and just as importantly looking as sharp as fashionably possible. Luckily we live in one of the world’s most revered fashion capitals and London just so happens to be at the top of its game when it comes to traditional craftsmanship, with a long-standing heritage to back it up. We can help you in three easy steps. Suit Up. No.1 Savile Row is a good a starting point as any, where above the golden door, plaques will read Gieves and Hawkes, one of London’s finest tailors and the first one you’ll spot on this coveted street. With over 200 years of experience, you know you’ll be in good hands when you step through the doors of this Georgian townhouse and into a different rea lm of menswear. With Royal warrants that include Her Majesty the Queen, His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh and His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales – need we really say more? Their Made to Measure services start from £1200. Get Shirty. Whilst it’s true that Jermyn Street is the veritable home of shirt-makers in London, we have to highlight one of our favourite hidden gems in London: Piccadilly Arcade. Nestled between the quiet Jermyn Street and bustling highway of Piccadilly, this fashionable FashionLondon 31

Budd Shirtmakers


FashionLondon edit Budd Shirtmakers

thoroughfare will take you back in time. Situated right near the entrance you will find Budd Shirtmakers, located there since the company began over a century ago. Specialising in beautifully handcrafted shirts, their Made-to-Measure service is the perfect option for any future groom. With eight collar types and six cuff options, you can see that attention to detail comes second to none with these guys. From £185. Step To It. What you will find on Jermyn Street, amid the selection of luxury shirtmakers, is a shoe company whose style and heritage runs unrivalled as far as we’re concerned. John Lobb has been a commanding presence in the luxury footwear market since 1866 in London and continues to uphold its venerability in the 21st century. Their bespoke service puts in 50 hours of work on a single pair of shoes, with two store appointments and all the details chosen by you. It’s an opulent and indulgent path to walk but one you’ll want to tread again and again.

does it still seem catering – guests ridiculous for eat too much guys to splash anyway. Does similarly for your venue really themselves? Hardly. need a roof ? And do 'Ashton' shoes www.johnlobb.com So if you’re scrimping to something about that bar save cash but the other half tab limit. Heck, why not just has chosen to splash, it might include a ‘BYOB’ on your wedding be time to revaluate your saving methods. invite? In elegant silver embossment of Make sacrifices elsewhere. Cut down on the course. Budd Shirtmakers

When you compare the full-price cost of a wedding dress alone, from a top London boutique or designer bridal collection at anything from £1,000 and up on average, FashionLondon 32


weddings

FashionLondon promotion

Fashionable 1

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1. Liz Tyler Jewellery

Designer jeweller Liz Tyler delights in creating individual wedding and engagement ring sets. Liz will be exhibiting at RHS Garden Wisley 28 April-2 May and at Henley 24-26 June. For details visit liztyler@mac.com, www.liztyler.com or tel 01258 820222

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Celebrate Italian style with personalised gianduiotti pralines from BONIERI (dairy and gluten free). Name and date your foils or gift a Bella Box to your bridesmaids. For more information and 20% off boxes with code FASHION20 see www.bonieri.com.

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What to wear at a wedding? We recommend this 100% Made in Italy Wholecut Oxford; perfect for the occasion. Smart, sophisticated and elegant Italian styling, you’ll look superb. Navy Blue Men’s Wholecut Oxfords By Arthur knight, £165-00 available online at:- www.ArthurKnightShoes.co.uk

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Going to a wedding this summer? Every lady needs a special dress. My Kind of Dress has THE dress for you regardless of your shape and size. They know how important it is to feel special, so take your pick at www.mykindofdress.co.uk

6. Du Maurier watches

The Rebecca by Du Maurier Watches. Rose gold, mother of pearl & twelve full-cut diamonds take centre stage in this stunning watch. From British designer Ned du Maurier Browning, this Swiss-made, limited edition timepiece will add elegance & sparkle to any occasion. £485 www.dumaurierwatches.com

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FashionLondon edit

Designing for Royalty by Abi Adeosun

Designer and managing director Gerald Bodner of Launer London has been designing bespoke bags and accessories for The Queen for more than 50 years. With The Queen’s 90th birthday celebrations and events just around the corner Fashion London choose to catch up with the highly esteemed designer.

LAUNER STELLA £970

Manufactured in the UK with pride, and to the highest quality, the leather is carefully cut to shape and run through a process called skiving and thinning. This technique refines the leather at the edges so that it can be turned ensuring no visible raw edge – a trademark that characterises the look of an authentic high quality Launer accessory. The longest part of the process however is putting the leather together to create the finished bag. This is done by one person at a time – hand made and inspected at every stage. Colleagues in the factory constantly strive for the highest

manufacturing quality. Why rush to get it perfect; “Our aim is that every Launer piece should give pleasure and satisfaction for many years,” is the description on the website. The design team, led by Gerald Bodner travel throughout Europe observing many design trends. In the UK Grants of Royal Assent are currently made by three members of the Royal family to companies or trades people who supply goods and services to individuals in the family. It is a symbol of excellence and quality. Launer London has been supplying FashionLondon 34

the Royal Household since 1968 when the company was granted a Royal Warrant by Her Majesty the Queen. We had the pleasure of chatting to the quite charming and refreshingly down to earth designer Gerald Launer. Introducing this issue as a wedding themed issue, Gerald proudly responds, “I made the bag for the Duchess of Cornwall’s wedding’’. We begin by asking about his ss16 collection and what his inspiration was. Gerald immediately acknowledges that there is a


FashionLondon edit huge fashion today for multicolours as well as a demand for it. He states that he was one of the first for bright colours, and that although he makes structured bags he does like to introduce a new collection now and again. We at Fashion London also love the choice of bright colours for the warmer seasons and ask if this is the way forward for Launer London. The designer points out that at the moment bright colours are very strong but things vary. He likes a lot of dark greens in the autumn time. So what can we look forward to from Launer London in the years ahead? Gerald chuckles (this designer clearly wants to keep us on our toes wondering) and modestly replies “I hope to keep moving. We have gone with the periods.’’ He admits he wants to create fashion that is worn and that fits, and acknowledges that whilst his brand makes a certain type of thing he wants to ensure it stays current and interesting.

Launer Elizabeth Daffodil £1200

We ask the British designer what his view of fashion in London today is and how he sees trends changing. “Things are tremendous here’’ he exclaims, “There is a lot going on like London Fashion Week.’’ Gerald points out that he has noticed a lot of new brands coming into London. He points out that London is not so much at his price level but that the bags he does sell in the West End, he believes is due to tourism. He goes on to reveal that his second biggest customer is the internet. With London as one of the most fashionable cities in the world and heavily influential when it comes to fashion we ask the designer what his thoughts are on the city. “I think at a certain price level we are very good – the middle to lower price ranges.’’ He moves onto other fashion cities and states,“I used to go to Paris for inspiration but not anymore’’. He explains that cities are now very global and that you can see many brands in most places. Gerald believes that the tourism influence is one of the main factors behind the success of fashion in London.

Sofia Multi side £970

As you regular readers will know, we at Fashion London are promoting a move in the fashion industry for a more realistic body shape on the catwalk. We feel the industry has a responsibility towards young people and holds a great influence. We ask Gerald what his thoughts are on this. The designer admits that he is not too keen on skinny models but does sees the industry as already changing a little with regards to this. He sees this as a sensible move and quite rightly points out that the fashion industry should represent who they are selling to. He goes on to voice his thoughts that “couture can be slightly divorced from reality.’’ With a brand that has been designing bags for Her Majesty The Queen for 50 years we ask Gerald his thoughts on the next generation, and in particular on the Duchess of Cambridge’s style as well as influence on the fashion industry. He wisely answers, ‘‘She’s a very smart girl. She is very clever in what she wears.’’ He goes on to say “What is wonderful about the Royal Family is that they wear British stuff. When I met The Queen she is very conscious about these things.’’

Launer London Tosca Handbag Orange Patent £635

The official period of celebration to mark The Queens 90th celebrations is 12th – 15th May 2016. For a designer who has been designing for so many years for the Royal Family we are naturally keen to find out how he will be celebrating this occasion. He humbly responds,“I give her a gift on important anniversaries and I plan to this year’’ For more on Launer London please visit www.launer.com

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FashionLondon edit

Unleash your creativity at London’s renowned fashion college by Kerry Law

Spring is finally here – the season of renewal, fresh starts and new beginnings. A perfect season to learn something new or even go as far as making a start on a new career path…. As London’s guide to fashion, we (naturally) believe the subject of fashion would be an exciting and challenging choice! So if, like us, you simply love fashion and style, plus are bursting with creativity, enrolling on a fashion course in London, such as at the London College of Fashion (LCF), could be the start of something fruitful. LCF is one of the foremost centres of fashion education in the world, and is committed to nurturing the next generation of ‘change makers’ in the fashion industry; those ready to shake-up society with new and challenging ideas. With LCF it’s not just about being a fashion designer – their course offering covers a wealth of careers within the fashion industry for those aiming to be stylists, make-up artists, photographers, buyers, journalists and fashion managers. The full-time undergraduate and postgraduate degree courses are as comprehensive as you’d expect, but likely for a large portion of you Fashion London readers, who may need to juggle an existing career or family life

with study, you can study part-time (evenings and weekends) for a BA (Hons) in Fashion Design, Fashion Business or Fashion Media. Alternatively, the college offers a taster of the industry with their short course programme. There are over 160 short courses on offer welcoming beginners to more experienced professionals looking to broaden their repertoire. One week courses are diverse and include learning the skills for boot making; lingerie pattern cutting; vintage millinery; bridal make-up; fashion photography; trend forecasting; fashion illustration and much more. So refresh your brain cells and get those creative juices flowing – you could be the next one to shake-up the fashion industry! We’ve got our eye on you… For more about London College of Fashion courses, including dates and fees, visit www.arts.ac.uk/fashion/courses. FashionLondon 36


escapes

FashionLondon promotion

Fashionable 1

1. Home in Italy

With more than 20 years’ experience, HOME IN ITALY has the ultimate selection of the finest, luxurious properties in the top destinations throughout Italy, each with charm, comfort and individuality. All trips are specifically tailored to your style and needs. We provide a knowledgeable concierge service, with no request too large, we can create a unique custom-designed vacation for you. To book your perfect getaway visit www.homeinitaly.com, email info@homeinitaly.com or give us a call at: 0 808 189 0999

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Awarded by “Good Hotel guide, Editor’s Choice 2016 Honeymoon Hotel” La Sablonnerie Hotel is a superb escape for your honeymoon or summer holiday! Set on the beautiful idyllic Channel Island Sark, providing excellent cuisine, it promises a memorable stay. www.lasablonnerie.com 01481 832061

Fashionable Dining

Café Pacifico

London’s original Mexican Cantina. Serving the best margaritas in town since 1982 with a friendly, caring service alongside homemade, healthy Mexican food. 20% off your bill when you quote FL! Not available in conjunction with other offers.

Guns and Smoke

Guns and Smoke is an award winning, western themed bar and grill, based in North London. Famous for its meats and atmosphere, live music, cocktails, and an extensive bar, it never fails to deliver. Book now on 020 8441 8111 FashionLondon 37

L’arte Di Cucinare

Specialising in Italian cuisine by using only genuine and authentic products, enjoy the charm and exquisite taste when dining at this North London restaurant based in Finchley and owned by Carlo Barbieri. www.lartedicucinare.co.uk 020 8445 1351


FashionLondon style

Fashion favourites

New Season – New Styles

by Mark Cullum

Spring is here - we’ve seen the sun, we can prove it! And with the arrival of a new season comes a whole host of exciting new fashions to grace the department store rails – both on and offline. In the men’s corner we’ve got the guys prepared for those dastardly April showers with Mr Porter’s 5th Anniversary Collection. We have selected our five favourite items from the 20-piece strong sophisticated collaboration, bringing together the finest labels in the menswear market.

As the ladies step into spring we suggest a minimalist approach from the trailblazers at Harvey Nichols, teaming together chic separates for a look that will last the season. Muted and neutral colours make this look perfectly interchangeable, whilst slip-on casuals are perfect for the gal on the go.

“This Berluti leather backpack is the epitome of casual luxury – an accessory that will last a lifetime.” Berluti £1670 www.mrporter.com

Incotex £200 www.mrporter.com

Le Kilt £435 www.harveynichols.com

McQ Alexander McQueen £240 www.harveynichols.com

Mackintosh £720 www.mrporter.com

Vince jacket £320 www.harveynichols.com

Alice + Olivia £170 www.harveynichols.com

London Undercover £145 www.mrporter.com

Common Projects £275 www.mrporter.com

“Add a literal burst of colour to your pared-down look and break the mould with this outrageous Christopher Kane clutch.” Christopher Kane £495 www.harveynichols.com

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Fashionable men FashionLondon promotion

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1. Jack Moran

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Jack Moran is a new label from a British Master shoe designer known for innovation. Made in Italy with exotic leathers, this remarkable collection is gaining significant attention worldwide. Available from selected stockists and private events mid-2016. www.jackmoran.co.uk @jackmoranshoes

2. Steel & Jelly

There’s nothing like a touch of colour to accent your look, and with Steel & Jelly’s brand new range of ties for SS16 you can do just that! Shop online at www.steelandjelly. com. Ties start from £12, shirt £40.

3. Claudio Lugli

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Eye popping print design, this multi-colour horse print is a signature Claudio piece Claudio Lugli - CL104 - Horse Print - £80 www.claudioluglishirts.com

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4. My Kind Of Tie

Our Dashing Sheldon tie is not for the faint-hearted gentleman. The bright red background contrasts with the black, grey and wine checkered print, designed in a graphic and modern fashion. Team it with a sharp black suit to let your tie do the talking. Price of featured tie, £15. www.mykindoftie.com

5. Vandini shoes

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Look out for cultured, contemporary, modish footwear from the heart of Shoreditch by Paolo Vandini. Style Naughton £85 features a leather/textile combo upper whilst style Nyland £84 has laser etching and brogue detail on hand finished uppers. www.vandinishoes.com Exclusive code flspring16 discounts prices.

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6. Fine Fettle Grooming This is not just another beard balm but a Beard Conditioner inspired by nature to truly hydrate, nourish, soften and protect your facial hair & skin in three glorious scents. Visit www.finefettlegrooming.com/flm (or use discount code ‘flm’) for an exclusive 10% discount. FashionLondon 39


FashionLondon economy

by Kerry Law

Fashion and the Economy

Royal Warrant holder Burberry

God save the royal fashion retail bonanza!

Royal Warrant holder Burberry

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Royal fervour is about to hit the country this spring. As The Queen reaches her milestone 90th birthday get ready for some patriotic flag waving and celebratory street parties. It will be hailed, as every major royal event is, as an economic boost to the UK, but the fashion industry has a particular reason to pin up the bunting. The Royal Family has a very positive impact on the value of the UK fashion market.


FashionLondon economy In 2015, the consultancy Brand Finance ‘valued’ the Royal Family as if it were a business. It appears that ‘The Firm’ is worth a staggering £44.5 billion. This includes major assets including the Crown jewels and the royal palaces; plus the estimated worth in related tourism. It also calculated that Royal Warrants, the system of royal approval currently given to around 800 companies including dozens of clothing brands, are worth a huge £4 billion to the retail industry. Brand Finance suggested that a warrant can add 5% to a company’s revenue with the marker set to become even more important. A Royal Warrant of Appointment is a mark of recognition of those who have supplied goods or services to the Households of HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh or HRH The Prince of Wales for at least five years, and who have an ongoing trading arrangement. There are 53 clothing and accessories companies listed in the Royal Warrants directory at present. Can you guess who they are? Unsurprisingly, several Savile Row tailors make the list, as do Wolsey (established in 1755 and the oldest brand in British menswear) and ‘country house set’ favourites Hunter and Barbour. At the more fashion end of the spectrum, Burberry and Pringle of Scotland make the grade, as well as luxury lingerie brand Rigby & Peller. For these labels, alongside other warrant holders such as Johnstons of Elgin, Austin Reed and Lyle & Scott, the Royal Warrant is a brand that resonates very well overseas. Royal approval, alongside traditional British heritage, keeps the cash tills ringing in the wealthy Asian and Middle Eastern markets. Only the top royals, HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales, can grant warrants, but that doesn’t matter if you’re a brand graced with the ‘Kate effect’… Since officially joining ‘The Firm’ The Duchess of Cambridge has elegantly wrapped herself in designer (McQueen, Erdem, Temperley) and high street (Zara, Whistles, Hobbs) brands and her sloaney days have vanished in a swish of a Jenny Packham evening dress! The ‘Kate effect’ often leads to instant sell-out. As soon as her engagement was announcement, Kate’s Issa London silk sapphire dress (retailing at £385) sold out within 24 hours, as did the £159 Reiss dress worn in the first official engagement photos.

Temperley London SS13, LFW September 2012

Seraphine knotted dress, as worn by Duchess of Cambridge

The Seraphine maternity brand she wore during pregnancy experienced a 340% increase in expected profit to £1.1m, with revenues projected at £15m by 2015 (up from £5.2m in 2013). Kate is also attributed as the reason for shoe brand LK Bennett’s increased fortunes and expansion into North America, and Reiss’ rapid global growth. And as if boosting fashion brands by millions isn’t enough, she can also help shift a few hockey sticks too (Littlewoods credits footage of her playing hockey at the Olympic Park in 2012 as the reason behind a 238% jump in hockey stick sales!).

Seraphine's Blossom dress (as worn by Duchess of Cambridge)

So if you’re a fashion brand with a royal fan, you really should be raising a glass on The Queen’s birthday. FashionLondon 41


FashionLondon promotion

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1. A-MM-E Britain and Italy. all lifestyles. all attitudes. Online shop. private orders. made to measure www.a-mm-e.com 2. Loop Wheels

Loopwheels are shock-absorbing wheels with integral suspension, for bikes and wheelchairs. Carbon composite springs provide enhanced performance and greater comfort. They’re designed and made in the UK. Loopwheels give you a smoother ride! www.loopwheels.com info@loopwheels.com

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Introducing the Fibre and Hide Oakworth fold over clutch bag. This elegant yet trendy wool & leather accessory has been designed and handmade in Yorkshire. Available to purchase in others colours at £140. Visit www.fibreandhide.com or email studio@fibreandhide.com

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produces multi-purpose, ultra-soft and comfy duvet dog beds in chic stylish designs for your dog to nestle into. Whether on the floor, in their basket, on the sofa or in the car, these versatile duvets are guaranteed to add extra FashionLondon 42

comfort. www.hectorhartley.com

6. Sable & Ox Unusual Design

Sable & Ox sells unique works of art. Working with independent, UK based artists and crafts people who share our aesthetic vision; this enables us to bring you the best of British design. www.sableandox.co.uk

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Broughton & Co create luxury, tailor-made pet accessories. Each product is crafted by hand, offering a truly bespoke service. Products can be fully personalised and you can even have your dog’s name stamped into your collar! Follow their Instagram @broughtonandco or shop www.lovebroughtonandco.com


educated

FashionLondon promotion

Fashionably 1. Online College of Art & Design (OCAD)

2. The British School of Fashion at GCU London

The UK’s oldest ONLINE further education college specialising in Art, Design & Media courses. One to one expert tuition across a wide range of both recreational and exam board accredited courses. Study at times that suit you! Apply now! Cambridge Home School 0800 612 0439 Artcoursework.com

The British School of Fashion is based at Glasgow Caledonian University’s London Campus in Spitalfields. The campus offers a unique mix of Masters and MBA courses including the world’s first MSc Digital Fashion Strategy and offers full fee scholarships. www.britishschooloffashion.com

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3. The University of Northampton

We offer a world class selection of fashion courses: • BA (Hons) Fashion (with Textiles and Leather pathways available) • BA (Hons) Footwear and Accessories • BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion and Communication • BA (Hons) Fashion Marketing www.northampton.ac.uk

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Fashion in the

Jimmie Martin

‘Forever’ chair by Jimmie Martin £2,110.00. Jimmie Martin is a luxury brand based in London since 2004. Award winners for their design, Jimmie Martin are known for transforming pieces of furniture and other objects into unique one-off pieces of art. www.jimmiemartin.com

First Garden Design

home

Designing for small city courtyards to suburban town gardens to rural country gardens. No two gardens are the same size or shape. First Garden Design are not just about artistry flair, but about physical structures, functionality and radiating your personal lifestyle. www.firstgardendesign.co.uk

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FashionLondon style

STYLE SPOTTING Photography by Jose Tio

www.josetio.com

Our photographer Jose Tio is out in London, once again spotting the different styles in our city, and asking your thoughts on fashion. What do you think about these men's styles? Dave Fashion is: to grow old gracefully but with style

Roberto Fashion is: my lifestyle

Peter Fashion is: looking cool at any age and feeling comfortable in your choice of style

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is for a mixture of men


FashionLondon style

Gerard Fashion is: personality

Florian Fashion is: creative freedom

Theo Fashion is: expressing who you really are

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FashionLondon Aid Louie Dress

Waters and the Wild collection

Hanna Dress

by Kerry Law

Helen Dress

As beautiful and magical as that most important dress in your life is, it’s such a shame that it’s worn once and rarely sees the light of day after the event. However, it is refreshing to reveal that recycled wedding dresses are now becoming ‘a thing’ for hip, environmentally-conscious brides.

Waters and the Wild collection

Sustainable Fashion

Reincarnating that ‘once in a lifetime’ wedding dress

East London-based designer Olwen Bourke has her own take on sustainable bridal wear. Since launching her eponymous fashion label in 2012, Bourke’s creative use of pre-loved fabrics in bespoke occasion wear and bridal couture, has established her as one of the most exciting names to emerge in the bridal industry. Conscious of the abundance of textile waste produced in the UK she wanted to explore the potential of creating beautiful, luxury garments from so called ‘waste’ material. She started using end-of-roll fabrics and recycled leather in her debut collection ‘Paradise Lost’. This was followed by ‘Waters and the Wild’ made predominantly from recycled silk bridesmaid dresses and vintage fabrics. Her bridal collection ‘Aislinn’ debuted in 2014. Olwen explains, “I have been exploring how to incorporate pre-loved fabrics FashionLondon 46

and laces into new styles as I believe it adds value and character to a dress. Five of the dresses I made for my ‘Aislinn’ bridal collection were made from fabrics left over from wedding dress commissions I had worked on. The sixth dress was made entirely from a vintage wedding gown from the 1980s that I bought on ebay.” In a personal, and rather beautiful, touch Olwen often incorporates fabric from a mother’s or grandmother’s dress. She adds, “At the moment I’m working on a wedding dress using fabric from the client’s mother’s vintage prom dress!” This is a very clever way to ensure that a ‘wear once’ wedding dress is reincarnated for generations to come, both helping the planet and adding a sentimental touch to a new bride’s special dress. For more information visit www.olwenbourke.com.



FashionLondon urban Last month the city welcomed a Most Curious wedding fair. In times where the average wedding price-tag excels the £20,000 mark, style-savvy yet frugal couples are moving away from the traditional. Set inside one of London’s most iconic alternative venues, The Old Truman Brewery, this alternative showcase gave a platform for designers to offer something a bit different for modern urban couples.

by Mark Cullum

A Modern

FairyTale

Muscat Bridal

l da Bri Muscat

Civil marriages and unions have been in fierce competition with church nuptials since the mid-60s, according to figures from the National Archives. Plus with hundreds of stylish urban locations to choose from, it is perhaps less about confetti on the church steps but more about creative centrepieces, exposed brick, candles in jars and so on. In line with this it seems fashions are changing. House of Ollichon’s founder, Hannah Ollichon, prides herself in designing dress-less bridal collections for the modern woman. Basing the label on style-difficulties faced when organising her own wedding, this entrepreneur specialises in luxury jumpsuits, playsuits and combos for a lady-less-interested in traditional trends. And the fact that everything is handmade in London is just the cherry on the cake when it comes to why we love this label.

House of Ollichon

Muscat London has opted for a similarly FashionLondon 48

contemporary approach with minimalist designs that still exude the classic opulence associated with wedding tastes. Brainchild of the Maltese-born designer, Kevin Muscat, the handmade collections started development in 2012 within his West Hampstead studios. They have since defined themselves as ‘masters of simplicity, creating the modern fairy tale’ and we soon expect them to branch out internationally. Moving in a slightly different direction, Velvet Johnstone are a label with an alternative and bohemian edge that gives them a truly unique position in the bridal-sphere. Fashion is proving exciting in the world of weddings and Fashion London are incredibly keen to discover more about this curiously changing industry. If you’ve been inspired by any of what we’ve shared, there’s really no need to thank us – instead feel free to send any invites through to our mailbox.


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FashionLondon EDIT

CINDY CRAWFORD STILL FASHION FABULOUS AT 50 by Karen Anne Overton

She was one of the original ‘five’ supermodels who dominated the catwalks during the eighties and nineties, and over the years has become a tour de force with her various endorsements and fitness videos. She may be 50 but the ever-fabulous Cindy Crawford is far from middle aged…

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FashionLondon EDIT

which Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz and Naomi Campbell strutted and lip-synced whilst Crawford looked sultry in a bathtub, or their appearance on the cover of British Vogue that same year which cemented their legendary status, but one thing was clear, the supermodels had arrived!

Cindy Crawford never got swept up in the hyperbole of being one the world’s biggest supermodels. Whilst her peers were out partying and getting attention for all the wrong reasons, Crawford got her beauty sleep and maintained a strong work ethic that saw her reach such giddy heights that she became far more than a model; she is a brand, a timeless icon, so much so that the stunning, plunging-neck, red Versace dress she wore to the ’91 Academy Awards has become one of the most iconic looks of all time and even has its own Wikipedia page. Perhaps that why it’s so hard to fathom that she is half a decade old; her gorgeous chestnut mane, almondshaped eyes and that iconic mole just above her lip have become the stuff of legends. Unbelievably, Crawford admits that she still doesn’t see what the fuss is about:

Unlike todays moody and rail-thin models, the fashion stars of the early nineties had curves, charisma and huge, perfect smiles and Crawford was their queen. She was also the definition of the healthy, bodacious, all-American girl who could pose nude for Playboy and still retain that good girl image. A frequent muse of veteran photographer Herb Ritts, who shot her twice for Playboy, she said in the past that it was her implicit trust in Ritts that made her confident they were creating ‘beautiful nudes’.

“The truth is that I have never seen myself as beautiful. At the beginning of my career I felt very uncomfortable and no one in the business went out of their way to say nice things to me,” she confesses. “I had such a bad self-image that it took over a decade to really feel good about myself and selfconfident enough to the point where I could smile on command in front of the camera.”

“I was lucky to arrive at a time when the fashion world was looking for a new image of women and a different look from the typical image of blonde and blue-eyed models. Christy, Naomi, Linda and me all looked very different and we each had a distinctive look that represented different ways of defining or representing beauty,” says Crawford wistfully. These days Crawford spends less time on the catwalk and more time running her

No one could be sure if was the steamy video for George Michael’s hit Freedom ‘90, in FashionLondon 53


FashionLondon EDIT

business empire. In 2010 she collaborated with skincare doctor Jean Louis Sebagh to create a beauty line titled Meaningful Beauty which still has women who are keen to get Crawford’s gorgeous glow flocking to buy the products. She also has her own furniture line, proving that her exquisite taste reaches beyond fashion, and she recently compiled a new book titled Becoming, serving as a highly spirited life manual that is part autobiography, part coffee-table book. Aside from her failed marriage to Hollywood star Richard Gere, in her private life the Illinois-born beauty has avoided the kind of drama that usually befalls celebrities. In ‘98 she wed businessman and former model Rande Gerber in a simple beach ceremony, and the bride, barefoot and wearing a short, summery John Galliano wedding dress, looked divine. The couple have been happily married for 17 and years and have two children, Presley, 16 and Kaia, 14. Daughter Kaia has inherited her mother’s fantastic genes; that luminous complexion, perfect smile and fantastic eyebrows, and when the duo graced the cover of Vogue Paris recently the fashion world went wild. Wearing matching leather jackets and shot by Mario Testino, Kaia’s similarity to her mother is such that you’d be mistaken for thinking it was Crawford stood next to her younger self.

Nothing is better than working out on a regular basis

Having recently signed to IMG Models it is expected that the teenager could become somewhat of a fashion sensation and she has already landed a spot on the upcoming Alexander Wang ‘Wang Squad’ campaign. Though incredibly proud of her daughter Crawford is also aware of the pitfalls young models face, saying: “I try to teach that to my daughter Kaia and not have her worrying about her looks. I want her to eat properly and not feel self-conscious and thinking FashionLondon 54

about diet and her weight. You have to be comfortable in your own skin and embrace everything that is distinctive and special about you.” Something we at Fashion London are constantly promoting! In typical, supermodel style, Crawford rang in her 50th year with a luxurious trip to St Barts and the unveiling of a stunning new portrait in which she wears nothing but a towel, shot by good friend Testino who posted it on his Instagram with a personal birthday message for the model. The image, which is part of the famed photographer’s Towel Series, is testament to her incredible beauty and enduring appeal. The question on everyone’s lips though, is how does she maintain her athletic physique and youthful looks? “Nothing is better than working out on a regular basis,” she says, matter-of-factly. “I still work out three times a week and I eat a very healthy diet. I can’t eat the way I used to and even in my twenties I saw that I had to change my eating habits. I rarely drink wine anymore because it makes my face puffy.” Whatever the secret, it’s clear that they don’t make them like they used to, and for all the swathes of fashion pretenders it is Cindy Crawford who is still putting the ‘super’ into supermodel.


FashionLondon EDIT

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FashionLondon aid LittleBlackDress.co.uk, 'Diane' in pink

by Kerry Law

Stand tall in your party frock for Refuge

Every woman knows that pulling on a brand new, show-stopping dress can make your confidence soar. But this spring, one brand is making sure your morale-booster is also helping rebuild the confidence of a woman suffering from domestic violence.

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FashionLondon aid

Black by Littleblackdress.co.uk

Online retailer Little Black Dress has partnered with Refuge, a women’s charity which provides shelter and support to women and their children experiencing domestic abuse. £1 from the sale of each of their own label dresses will be donated to the charity. It’s a great idea (fashion brands partnering with charities is always good to see)!

funds [making] a huge difference to the women and children we support.” Little Black Dress CEO Mark Evans added: “Refuge’s work focuses on empowering women and building self-esteem, a cause that compliments the Little Black Dress ethos perfectly. We are committed to building a brand that ‘gives something back’ rather than one that simply sells dresses.

Sadly, two women are killed every week by a current or former partner in England and Wales, and thousands more suffer from violence and emotional abuse every day. Since opening their first safe house in 1971, Refuge has campaigned to change public attitudes to domestic violence while supporting hundreds of thousands of women and their children stuck in terrible domestic situations. Today it helps around 3,700 women and children escape abuse and rebuild their lives, every day. Refuge’s CEO, Sandra Horley CBE, said : “Refuge is delighted to have been selected by Little Black Dress as its charity partner for 2016. Domestic violence is a huge issue for women in this country, with one in four women experiencing domestic violence at some time in their lives. Refuge is incredibly grateful for this opportunity, which will not only raise awareness of domestic violence and the services we provide, but will also raise vital

“At the heart of our brand ethos is our mission to ‘give confidence to all women’ so the partnership was a perfect fit. We are glad to be giving £1 for every dress bought from our own collections. We will be supporting women to rebuild their lives free from violence and fear.” This partnership coincides with the launch of their new collection ‘BLACK’ – another range which will raise money for Refuge. The limited edition collection of 18 dresses has been created by ex-Ted Baker designer Jodie Fleischmann. The designs follow a sophisticated colour palette of navy, black and nude, and are finished with fine fabrics, lace and other on-trend detailing. All dresses are made in London and 100% British.

LittleBlackDress.co.uk, 'Amber' in grey

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So feel great and stand tall in your LBD wherever you choose to wear it (note – it’s a perfect choice for any lady attending a wedding) and know that another woman somewhere is standing a little bit taller too…


FashionLondon Technology

Fashion and Technology by Abi Adeosun

Smart and Stylish Designer brand Michael Kors is now entering the wearable technology market with the recent announcement that the Access display smart watch, the first in the designer’s collection of new wearable technology accessory will be available this autumn 2016. Launched at Baselworld 2016, the watch industry’s premier trade show in Switzerland, the Michael Kors Access display smart watch is aesthetically pleasing and clearly an attractive asset to fashion forward individuals, with features that are glamorous, stylish and innovative from a leader in luxury fashion. Using cutting-edge technology, the touch screen display watch can run with both iPhone and Android phones (the latter made possible through a partnership with Google using their Android Wear™ smartwatch platform). So as well as looking stylish, the smart watch allows the wearer to receive and check social media updates, check text messages and check emails. It also has a built-in fitness tracker, app notifications and smart help from Google. The

Michael Kors Access smart watch is customizable too!The wearer can alter the look of the watch with exclusive Michael Kors display faces which change with a swipe, or even match your outfit with the interchangeable leather and silicone wristbands. Now that’s a smartwatch made for fashion lovers! “I’m in the business of making people’s lives easier through fashion,” says Michael Kors. “I thought, ‘Why can’t tech accessories be chic and glamorous?’ You wear them every day. After all, technology is impacting life more and more. It should reflect your personal taste as much as anything else, but it should also give you access to all the experiences that you want.” We at FashionLondon love the idea of fusing our favourite fashion brands with technology so eagerly look forward to getting our hands on our own. For more information, please visit the following: Michael Kors Access: http://www.michaelkors.com/ Access

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F ashion London

Opportunities for experienced successful sales professionals with Fashion London!

contact@fashionlondon.co FashionLondon 59


The perfect place to curl up with a classic. On a classic. Winston 3-seater from £1,199

Free delivery and returns | Save £20 with code: FASHION | swooneditions.com/fashion Save £20 on a £200 minimum spend. Cannot be used alongside any other offer. Expires midnight on 14.06.2016. Prices shown accurate at time of print. Full terms at swooneditions.com/terms


EVERY DAY 7 YOUNG PEOPLE, AGED 13 TO 24, ARE DIAGNOSED WITH CANCER. We want to make sure they all have access to the specialist care and support we provide, no matter where they live. But right now, for every young person we can reach, there’s one we can’t.

Photo: Nick Miners

YOU CAN HELP US REACH EVERY YOUNG PERSON WITH CANCER JODIE, 15

Please text ‘GIVE’ to 70500 to give £5 to help our vital work.

Teenage Cancer Trust will receive 100% of your donation. Teenage Cancer Trust will text you once to thank you and a second time to ask if you’d like to hear more news. They won’t contact you again if you don’t reply. This is a charity donation service for Teenage Cancer Trust. It costs £5 plus one standard message. Always ask the bill payer’s permission. The mobile payment helpline is 03306600425. Teenage Cancer Trust is a registered charity: 1062559 (England & Wales); SC039757 (Scotland)


FashionLondon style

Style in Motion

A century of stylish weddings

Hat from "Lavand"

We love weddings and of course love fashion, but have you ever wandered about how the wedding outfit has evolved over time... We take a look... T-bar shoes from "DuneLondon"

1900 – 1920s

The bridal gown has for decades been one of the priciest items of clothing and this was the case too in the early 20th century. The award winning period drama, Downton Abbey has re-ignited the 1920’s bridal fashion for the modern generation to enjoy sparking a number of “1920s themed” weddings and parties. The gowns from the early 20th century or late Edwardian era were precious hand stitched garments. Women wore S-shaped corsets, soft silk, frilly layers and puffed sleeves. One item we need no excuse to start wearing is the cloche hat such as this one available from a selection at Lavand in Carnaby Street and T-bar shoes like this pair from DuneLondon

1930s, 40s, and 50s

1960s, 70s, and 80s

The 1930s speak easy style characterised by smart waistcoats layered under tweed or houndstooth patterned jackets, and matching trousers held up with braces. The style oozes cool factor so it’s no wonder that the “vintage wedding” has been popping up everywhere recently in the form of matching groomsmen attire.

Inspired by Hollywood movie stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly from the1950s the “sweet heart” neckline, ballerina length dresses, long gloves, lacy tiered dresses and pill box hats with flowing veils become popular trends.Wedding dress styles varied from the 1970s onwards ranging from hippie frocks to fairytale princesses. Strong in tradition, men still wore the traditional morning suit. Tuxedos and bow ties remained fashionable attire for weddings.

In addition, this is the decade that men’s hats became more popular. Wide, round brimmed hats for men were highly popular this time with formal choices such as homburg, porkpie, trilby and even the bowler hat. All were commonly worn with the iconic pin stripe suit.

"White Stuff", Goldfinch waistcoat

1990, 2000... and beyond

by Abi Adesoun

“Doing it my way” weddings in recent days are popular. The rise of the unplanned Las Vegas eloping and the trend in alternative weddings seems to be the tip of the iceberg as the Millennial generation (recognised as those born between 1979 – 2000) are coming of age and are more savvy about what they spend their hard earned cash on. High street wedding dresses are now considered an ok option with H&M’s new eco-friendly wedding dresses and with ASOS launching a mid – range collection of gowns. It seems that whilst some are keeping to traditional styles others are now breaking the trend as the choice in wedding attire continues to develop. FashionLondon 62

Tuxedo jacket "Burton Menswear" HM.com exclusives

HM.com exclusives



FashionLondon edit

by Abi Adeosun Pill box, fascinator, tiara or casque? – There are so many different types of headdress that can be worn to a wedding, and we have been wearing them for special occasions for years. Aside from the regal endorsement where the British Royal family have been fashioning formal headwear for many generations, the wearing of hats at weddings in the UK originates from a requirement by the Anglican Church for women to cover their heads. Nowadays they are

generally worn for fun and creativity, and of course, to compliment your style of attire. Although making the right choice of hat can make or break that special outfit the technical skill of designing and making hats does not always get the recognition it deserves. Therefore our choice of emerging designer this month is a milliner and one that offers a choice of hats for all seasons. Libka Safr’s hats are unique, fun and creative, promising to add individuality to your outfit.

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FashionLondon edit Libka Safr is a technically trained Milliner and fashion designer from Czech Republic who will soon be gracing London with her designs. After graduating from the College of Fashion Design in Prague, she is currently the President of the Association of Czech Fashion (an exhibition promoting Czech fashion) and has a list of high profile clients under her belt. She has dressed the Princess of Luxemburg (Tessy de Luxemburg) in her hat designs as well as styling Czech celebrities such as Lucie Vondrackova and supermodel, Suica Krainova. Libka Zafr’s hats will become available to Londoners from 25th April 2016 when she joins London Fashion elite at central London Pop up store the permanent pop-up. Passionate about supporting independent and emerging brands, the pop up store based in Soho, is adorned with exclusive items limited products and hidden gems created by industry pioneers such as Masato and Basharatyan V (the latter is one of Fashion London’s previously spotted and successful emerging designers). Providing retail space for new brands, fashion fans can

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discover creative designers of apparel, accessories, footwear, and millinery. Designed specifically for London, Libka’s current hat collection demonstrates the designer’s creative flair. Respecting the need to offer a look for women of different ages, there is something for the Mother of the Bride or one of the younger guests. Customers can choose from the headband design with geometric attachment, the “Bird hat” which is somewhat more modest covering the whole head, or a delicate fascinator with a detailed motif. All make a classy statement. The current ready to wear collection includes fascinators and headbands ideally styled for a spring or summer wedding. The hats in this collection are defined by their distinctive shapes which make a statement without stealing the attention away from the bride (or blocking your view of the service!). Her use of bows, stars and floral shapes are romantic so certainly suit the wedding theme. Currently available online www.libkasafr.cz, plus look out for the new collection in the London popup store soon.


www.stewartparvin.com

17 Beauchamp Place, London SW3

020 7589 5529


PAUL COSTELLOE www.paulcostelloe.com


©2016 COACH®

CHLOË GRACE MORETZ / Actress

Delancey Chain Link Watch coach.com


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