FASHION LONDON MAGAZINE Issue 17: Winter and party special

London

F ashion

London’s luxury guide to fashion for men & women

issue 17

Winter and party special

HUGOBOSS.COM

The Harrods Winter Gift Card, which can be loaded with any amount from ÂŁ10 to ÂŁ10,000, is the ideal present for everyone on your Christmas list this year.

For more information, contact Corporate Service at Harrods on +44 (0)20 7225 5994 or email corporate.service@harrods.com

FashionLondon editor

editor’s

Letter This issue we touch on a subject very close to my heart and one I am keen to push forward within the fashion industry.

As our final issue for 2016, but one that sees us into the new year, I hope the timing of this feature will leave a thought in your mind which you will take with you into 2017. Page 52 questions the use of the ‘’super skinny’’ catwalk model and discusses the rise in ‘’plus size’’ with a look at the effect on society. As a young child I suffered from borderline anorexia.

Although for me it was not necessarily as a result of the influence of the fashion industry (I was a keen ballerina and incredibly conscious about body shape) it is clear that the industry are indeed a key influence for many young people on the perception of their ideal bodyshape.

Such perceptions can lead to eating disorders. We, as a fashion magazine are also part of the fashion industry and therefore accept that we can also influence. Our aim is to do this positively and aid the move away from the "super skinny" to a more realistic and diverse shape catwalk model. Our "Fashion and Charity" feature this issue reveals how the NSPCC in collaboration with fashion are promoting a positive body image amongst the younger generation, and in our feature with the distinctly beautiful Lupita Nyong’o she speaks about the perception of beauty.

On a less serious note, it is that festive time of year (whether you are reading this before Christmas, during or

FashionLondon promotion

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slightly further into the new year) so we have some treats inside for you. We take a look at what London's iconic store Harrods offers this party season in terms of luxury fashion, we have included a feature on the renowned fashion designer Tom Ford, and finally our theme for "Fashion Favourites", of course, has to be party wear.

Enjoy your read and enjoy the festive season. www.fashionlondon.co

FashionLondon editor

editor’s

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1. Peter Pilotto Velvet Double Breasted Jacket in Lilac Price available upon request.

Peter Pilotto Lace Band Turtle Neck in White £650 Available from Harrods Peter Pilotto Velvet Trousers in Navy £595 Stockist available upon request www.peterpilotto.com 2. Hilfiger Collection, Available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900 POA

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3. Piccadilly SB Overcoat £650 www.aquascutum.com 4. Hilfiger Edition, Available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900 Shearling Lined Leather Jacket £1,070 Wool Crew Neck Jumper £205 Trousers and Boots POA

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FashionLondon contents

Contents

unique for issue 17 12 The Lupita Effect 18 His love with fashion 30 The king of fashion takes on Hollywood and wins again 50 Feel the festive spirit at Harrods 52 Zero to plus size and everything in between

Regular Features 10 CATWALK INDULGENCE: The Winter Edit 27 TREND OF THE MOMENT: Into the Night.

Blues Brothers 38 FASHION FAVOURITES: Party Loud 40 Fashion in the Economy: No expense spared for a fashionable Christmas 44 FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: Never loose your bags again 46 SUSTAINABLE FASHION: Crafted with love: some heart-warming knits of the season

Fashion London www.fashionlondon.co contact@fashionlondon.co | advertising@fashionlondon.co 0203 603 3169 Publisher – FLM Ltd

48 URBAN FASHION: The City Slopes

Editor-in-Chief – Clare Susannah Farmer

56 FASHION AND CHARITY: Fight for the right to be yourself

Cover Image – Lupita Nyong'o Graphic Designer – Nicholas Birkett www.smart-page.co.uk

60 STYLE IN MOTION: Past, present and future at the V&A: A century of fashion education 64 UP AND COMING DESIGNER: Engineering the perfect dress FashionLondon 8

Chief Photographer – Paz Stammler Contributors – Abi Adeosun, Mark Cullum, Karen Anne Overton, Harriet Sansome

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FashionLondon style

by Mark Cullum Photos by

Davide Cossu

The Winter Edit

The autumn/winter 16 schedule was the penultimate showcase before London Collections Men transformed into London Fashion Week Men’s. Perhaps not a big change in literary terms, but the unification with the womenswear branding bolsters the menswear catwalk presence and signals just how important the guys are to the industry. In this issue we share our backstage camera with you to enjoy some of London’s most coveted menswear designers and this season's offering...

E.Tautz There was a demure palette from this modern gent’s bedfellow, but plenty of navy – our colour of choice for men this season. Sedate browns teamed with academic greys and military blues, but sizes came in large and flowing. Oversized topcoats, relaxed separates and wide-cut trousers formed the basis for this collection, which moved away from the sleeker aesthetic of previous seasons. The brand’s new look and fresh approach is thanks to its designer Patrick Grant, a man who last year won the BFC/GQ designer menswear fund.

YMC YMC, or You Must Create, celebrated its 20th anniversary with this show and gave a sense of edginess to a folk-inspired aesthetic. Brimmed hats, linens and relaxed knits gave the collection an Amish feel, but leather jackets kept the look young and modern. The colour palette was subdued but the brand brought balance to the show schedule. YMC says they “are not led or influenced by seasonal trends but try to provide the solution for intelligent clothing that is wearable” – hence their success.

Christopher Raeburn Never failing on function, never failing on style. Christopher Raeburn – pictured here putting the finishing touches on one of his models – delivers another incredible menswear collection with sustainability at its heart. Reusing and recycling, the designer sources military fabrics for outerwear, while the collection itself was inspired by nomadic herders from Mongolia. Chunky knits and scarves in matching autumnal tones were stand-out pieces, but the rubber suiting and waterproof textiles were what exemplified Raeburn’s mission for longevity.

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FashionLondon style Xander Zhou Shortly after the news of David Bowie’s passing, Xander Zhou’s catwalk show kicked off and with it came the spirit of the Starman himself. As well as the final walk to “Heroes”, the collection explored various themes of gender, sexuality, freedom and diversity – stated on colourful show notes. Bold hues, metallic winkle-picker shoes and rainbow striped trousers could not have honoured the era or its sparkling leaders any better. We loved the ruffles and glitter eyes.

James Long Certainly one of the most vivid contenders from our round-up, James Long spared no colour on his catwalk with a spectacular 80s vibe. Inspired by “local heroes”, namely the many London-based creatives in the designer’s circle and on his radar, there was definitely a powerful attitude communicated across the collection. Spraypainted denim, stripes, florals and shimmering bomber jackets meant that this was not something for the faint-hearted. Long’s clothing has always been about fun, freedom and individuality.

JW Anderson Conformity is one word you would never utter at a JW Anderson show, unless it was preceded by the words “total lack of ”. Always a pusher of boundaries, Anderson is the first to win both menswear and womenswear designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards.

He took it to another level by streaming this show on the gay dating app Grindr. “Fashion is at the speed it should be; media drives that so we have to keep pace,” he declared.

Tiger of Sweden Bringing modern Scandinavian design to Britain, Tiger of Sweden has grown steadily popular in recent years and for their latest collection the brand stayed true to their roots. Inspired by Dalarna, a northern forest region in Sweden, patterns came in abstract foliage and minute florals on suiting. The tailoring was relaxed with the common wide-fit trouser for the season, while polo-neck sweaters checked off another box for the aw16 trend report. The colourblind sweater was our stand-out piece.

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THE LUPITA EFFECT

by Karen Anne Overton

Fashion London charts Lupita Nyong’o’s meteoric rise from jobbing actress and model to an Oscar-winning style icon who is redefining the concept of beauty.

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FashionLondon EDIT

Regal, majestic, luminous… these are just a few of the adjectives that spring to mind when describing actress and filmmaker Lupita Nyong’o. Three years since her stunning performance in 12 Years a Slave which won her a Best Actress Oscar, Nyong’o has gone on to have a fairy-tale

career. She has been the face of several high-profile modelling campaigns, starred in three Disney-produced blockbusters: Star Wars: The Force Awakens, The Jungle Book and Queen of Katwe, and is fast becoming a fashion icon with her bold and distinctive style.

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For Nyong’o the association with Disney is a joyous one; the way its films touch people and evoke memories of childhood bestows an honour she cherishes and which makes her proud to be part of the stories that will touch the next generation. “Star Wars is one that is so diverse

FashionLondon EDIT and anything is possible in that universe,” she says. “And then you have Jungle Book, which connects you to the animal kingdom. Queen of Katwe is this heart-warming story of an African girl who followed her dream. I’m just happy to be in so many different places with Disney.”

She may not be the archetypal Disney princess, but Nyong’o possesses many of the qualities one may seek from a Disney character: a fierce and unflinching boldness, a warm and spirited kindness and of course, startling beauty. At the 2014 Academy Awards Nyong’o wowed in a custom-made, light blue Prada gown with a plunging neckline that showed off her flawless skin and enviable figure.

Complementing the look with a simple Fred Leighton goldand-diamond headband and matching spiked earrings, she was the undisputed belle of the ball as she floated down the red carpet with the many layers of pleated chiffon pooling and swirling around her.

This is just one of many red carpet appearances in her short but explosive time in the limelight that have landed her on many a best-dressed list. With a focus on clean lines, bold colour palettes and vivid prints, she is a rebel of sorts – pulling off looks that other starlets could only dream of. Originating from Kenya, but born in Mexico, the 33-year-old often pays tribute to her heritage whether directly by wearing native designers – Kenyan Kiko Romeo is one of her favourites – or by way of accessories, often complementing dazzling gowns by the likes of Erdem and Elie Saab with traditional headwraps and turbans.

My rule is that I have to recognise myself.

I have to feel like I’ve chosen it. When you know a dress is handmade, it completely changes the experience of wearing it

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In Queen of Katwe, which follows the true-life tale of Phiona Mutesi – a young Ugandan girl who defied all the odds to become a chess champion – Nyong’o plays Phiona’s mother Harriet. “It’s a universal nuanced sweet human story, about a young girl from a hard situation with big dreams who achieves something so large,” declares the actress. “It’s also very rare to have a story like this told on the African continent, and having a stage

FashionLondon EDIT as international as Disney, to be told on this scale, about Africans told by Africans. And this is a testament to my own life, where I had my dreams and I was able to realise them and have it go so well. It’s a reflection on that.”

On the film’s promotional circuit, Nyong’o decided to emulate her character’s style by donning an array of eye-catching prints, Cult Gaia turbands and tribal-inspired jewellery. At the London premiere she stunned in a multi-coloured bustier with matching headwrap and highwaisted duck-egg blue trousers

by New York designer Rosie Assoulin, and in South Africa she wore Balmain with pared down accessories and delicate gold face art.

Nyong’o works closely with her stylist, 30-year-old Micaela Erlanger, whose clients include Michelle Dockery and Olivia Munn and who has swiftly become a hot number in Hollywood. “I only wear a look if both of us agree on it,” Said Nyong’o. “My rule is that I have to recognise myself. I have to feel like I’ve chosen it. When you know a dress is handmade, it completely changes the experience of wearing it.”

She may have a penchant for high-end glamour, but she is also not afraid to mix it up with couture, high street and vintage.

At a recent event in New York she took to the red carpet in an off-the-shoulder printed blouse with matching wide-legged trousers which were part of the Kenzo x H&M range. In other words, if it looks good, she will wear it regardless of the label.

And when equipped with such beauty, lots of things look good!

Naturally, brands have been quick to pick up on Nyong’o’s fashion appeal and in 2014 quirky fashion house Miu Miu enlisted her for its Inez & Vinoodh shot, spring/summer campaign. She has also graced the cover of American Vogue twice – only the second African woman to ever do so – and in her role as ambassador for Lancôme she has broken down barriers in an industry that too often fails to recognise and represent diversity.

European standards of beauty are something that plague the entire world

“European standards of beauty are something that plague the entire world – the idea that FashionLondon 15

FashionLondon EDIT darker skin is not beautiful, that light skin is the key to success and love. Africa is no exception,” she said. “I remember seeing a commercial where a woman goes for an interview and doesn’t get the job. Then she puts a cream on her face to lighten her skin, and she gets the job! This is the message: that dark skin is unacceptable. I definitely wasn’t hearing this from my immediate family – my mother never said anything to that effect – but the voices from the television are usually much louder than the voices of your parents.”

Since her Oscar win, Nyong’o has become a phenomenon.

Consumers rush to buy the lip gloss she’s wearing; models cast in catwalk shows are becoming more diverse, and women who before felt under-represented now have a voice. They’re calling it the ‘Lupita effect’. Nyong’o admits to being delighted with the seismic changes being made, but mostly she feels that beauty only ever ought to be skin-deep.

“Beautiful people have many advantages, but so do friendly people,” she says. “I think beauty is an expression of love.”

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www.billyinthetree.com billy in the tree

His love wit h fashion

Photographer

Paz Stammler Model

Alexander Weber Agency

Img London Creative Director

Cory Lackner Grooming

Pullover: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Dana Vuck Styling

Leather coat: LANVIN

Casa Moda FashionLondon 18

Pullover & trousers: LANVIN Coat: VALENTINO

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Shirt: TOM FORD Pullover: PRADA Scarf: VALENTINO Trousers: DOLCE & GABBANA

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Suit: LANVIN Shoes: DOLCE & GABBANA

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Shirt: DOLCE & GABBANA Coat: PRADA Trousers: VALENTINO

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Coat: ALL SAINTS

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Shirt: VALENTINO Leather jacket: SAINT LAURENT

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Hat: REINHARD PLANK

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Pullover: BOTTEGA VENETA Leather jacket: TOM FORD Trousers: VERDANDY Shoes: LANVIN

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FashionLondon Trend

Trend of the moment

by Mark Cullum

Into the Night The winter always has an air of mystery about it: foggy nights, the indoor soirées and of course Christmas shopping on the sly. Transforming this concept into a style creates a look of sophistication and intrigue, which slips seamlessly into the new year when many of us fall off the radar. But before we put away our social calendars we still want to stay wrapped up, on-trend and on-point when we hit the dark city streets.

Hobbs encapsulates the essence of this with an incredibly elegant winter collection.

M&S £27.50

Hobbs London AW16

Jaeger £335

La Redoute £65

Atelje at Harvey Nichols £270

River Island

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FashionLondon Trend

Debenhams £28

Dune £150

Hobbs £249

It’s bigger the better with trousers this season, while pleats add texture to your look.

Moschino at Harvey Nichols £555

M&S Trousers £35

Blues Brothers

As darkness starts to descend well before clocking-off time, we highlight one of the season’s most underrated yet magnificent colours. Whether it’s the subtle texturing, the refined fabrics, the multi-tonal patterns – or all of the above – blue is our supreme colour for winter. Navy, and its adjacent hues, is the perfect base colour for any formal look. Suiting, smart separates and accessories team impeccably well with jazzier and more colourful pieces.

Hudson London at Harvey Nichols £110

Debenhams £50

River Island doesn’t hold back on the prints and plays with colour extremely well.

Mens at Dune £40

House of Fraser

Etro at Mr Porter £885

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River Island AW16

FashionLondon Trend

M&S £79 Hilditch & Key £135

Jaeger £275

Neutral tones break up the look and this hold-all can be dressed up or down

Next £22

River Island

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FashionLondon edit

The king of fashion takes on Hollywood - and wins again

By Karen Anne Overton

Tom Ford dons his directing hat once more as he releases his sophomore cinematic effort, Nocturnal Animals. But don’t worry, he’s not done with fashion just yet…

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FashionLondon edit

When the super-stylish and enviably handsome fashion mogul Tom Ford made his directorial debut with A Single Man back in 2009, some were reluctant to believe his talents would translate to cinema. After all, his reputation as a designer has landed in the same ranks as Gianni Versace and Karl Lagerfeld – could he really cut it in Hollywood? Those naysayers soon realised that yes, he could.

“I had a vision in my mind which was very clear. I did not have any fear,” reveals the 55-year-old. “It was only after the film that people said things to me like, ‘Do you realise people were laughing?’ I had no idea. Designing women’s clothes is harder than the film industry though.

Fashion is so perishable, but with films you can have about a four- or five-year break. We don’t have time to catch our breath in fashion.”

If Ford is ever flustered, he never shows it. He and his husband, editor Richard Buckley, split their time between the UK and Los Angeles, with their toddler son Jack in tow, and he balances his burgeoning empire with his other role as an artist. Over his 30-year career, Ford has become synonymous with a specific brand of effortless opulence. His suit is impeccably tailored, his shirt perfectly pressed. Even his beard is suspiciously thick, glossy and black… “I am not ready to be a silver daddy yet,” he confesses with a wry smile. One might imagine that Ford constantly lives in this sartorial bubble, but he is quick to dispel that particular myth: “What you see is all an illusion. It’s an image. It doesn’t reflect real life.

Definitely not my real life. When I’m at home, glamour has no part of my day to day.”

Ford may insist otherwise, but this is precisely what his empire is built on. During the dashing designer’s 15year tenure at Gucci – and Yves Saint Laurent which

David Beckham wearing Tom Ford

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FashionLondon edit

Brad Pitt, wearing a Tom Ford suit, shirt and belt

I love fashion and I love designing individual things.

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FashionLondon edit

the brand acquired in 1999 – Ford resurrected the Italian fashion house from near-bankruptcy. His impeccable sensibilities, attention to detail and daring creative ingenuity – the controversial Opium fragrance campaign featuring a naked Sophie Dahl for example, or the Mario Testino image of a model with the Gucci logo perfectly shaved into her pubic hair – helped turn Gucci into a billion-dollar business, until his departure in 2004. His success is based on both his deep understanding of fashion and his dedication to pushing its boundaries.

“I love fashion and I love designing individual things. Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein were the first people to create their own worlds in fashion,” says an impassioned Ford. “Americans are very business-like, not that the rest of the world isn’t. But having worked on Seventh Avenue in New York I knew from experience that if you created a collection that nobody liked, you would be fired the next day.”

Ford’s departure from Gucci initially left him in a state of flux. Unable to come to terms with leaving a business he had invested so much of himself in, he was devastated and became – in his own words – “a highly functioning alcoholic”.

Fortunately, this period proved to be restorative and soon Ford was back to his creative finest, launching not just his eponymous label, but his new career as a director. The question is, having established himself as a premier designer and filmmaker, which medium does he prefer? “I don’t think it’s easy for me to simply say one over the other,” he says coyly. “But I must say, at this moment in time, the greatest artistic channel I have in my life is film. It feels like this is where I’m meant to be and this is what I’m meant to be doing.”

Based on Austin Wright’s book, Tony and Susan, his new film Nocturnal Animals is a stunning noir-ish thriller. Amy Adams plays an art executive, whose seemingly perfect existence crumbles on receiving

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FashionLondon edit Jennifer Lopez, in Tom Ford sunglasses

They both feed certain parts.

Fashion is fun, it’s exciting, it’s thrilling but its ephemeral, it’s always turning and moving and changing. Film is forever

a book transcript – a terrifying story of violence and betrayal – from her exhusband ( Jake Gyllenhaal). As the two narratives play out side by side – Adams in her shiny city life and Gyllenhaal in the raw American wilderness – we are reminded of Ford’s own juxtaposing life as a boy from Houston who became a global fashion powerhouse. Ford however, believes the former is closer to his true self. “I’m far more connected to the earth and to what really matters than my image exhibits,” he muses. “I grew up in New Mexico in a very modest, simple upbringing. That’s where I feel most comfortable, not immersed in this idea of perfection.”

Like many of his peers, Ford has starred in several of his own campaigns and sees himself as ‘the face’ of his brand. He famously appeared on the cover of Vanity Fair alongside starlets Scarlett Johansson and Keira Knightley in an image that garnered controversy for the fact that the two actors were in their birthday suits and Mr Ford was in his trademark FashionLondon 34

tailored one. “I don’t like having my picture taken though. I am extremely shy. But having me in the pictures puts me into the brand,” he explains. “With Chanel, you feel that Karl Lagerfeld’s personality has really welded with Coco’s, but not everyone knows yet who I am, so that’s why I’m in the pictures. I don’t like having my picture taken, but it helps people to respond.”

But without Ford, his billion-dollar luxury brand is worthless. Encompassing menswear, womenswear, beauty and a baffling array of perfumes and colognes, it is far more than a fashion line – it is a mindset. Perhaps this explains the success of his films; those same sensibilities and attention to detail create a world that is as intoxicating as his Black Orchid fragrance, and as Ford explains, art nurtures art… “They both feed certain parts. Fashion is fun, it’s exciting, it’s thrilling but its ephemeral, it’s always turning and moving and changing. Film is forever.”

beaut iful

FashionLondon promotion

Fashion’s 1. Claudio Lugli

Claudio Lugli is a fashion brand that specialises in colourful printed shirts for both men and women.

Claudio Lugli’s Italian heritage, use of the best quality fabrics, and their distinctive and refreshing take on styling, has created a modern interpretation of classic tailoring. Their colourful prints, intricate detailing, innovative cutting and luxurious fabrics are what define these shirts as a CL. Their style gives a playful edge to daywear that works just as well with jeans or chinos as it does with a classically tailored suit. www.claudioluglishirts.com

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2. Lara B. Designs

As seen in VOGUE, LARA B. DESIGNS introduces timeless Italian leather handbags and accessories.

Whether traveling or out with friends; the clean design and luxurious texture are sure to make this your go-to-bag! www.larabdesigns.com or follow on Instagram @larabdesigns. World-wide shipping available.

3. AÍBÍ

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The ultimate in both functionality and style. AíBí prêt à porter scarves are designed in an array of chic prints, so that your fashion accessory can immediately convert into a baby sling to avoid every day travel emergencies. www.aibi.ch, Twitter @aibiandrea, Facebook AíBí

4. Scaramanga

Scaramanga is a renowned lifestyle brand offering top quality leather bags since 2006. Capturing the perfect balance of vintage style with modern function, our bags & accessories are handcrafted from Scaramanga’s original distressed leather; each bag is completely unique! Find your next bag at www.scaramangashop.co.uk

5. KC Malhan

This muted silver clutch is the perfect transition piece to take you into fall. Featuring elaborate bead, sequin and pattern detail, pair with skinny jeans to introduce a touch of glamour into a casual ensemble or style it up with a cocktail dress. www.kcmalhan.com

6. Ashley rose

Ashley Rose, a New York-based designer specialises in clothing for girls. Using classic silhouettes, mixed with bold fabrics, Ashley’s garments are designed to allow your little girl to experience the fun of childhood whilst looking her best! For the full collection visit www.shopashleyrose.com @shopashleyrose

7. Bohemian Retro

Prague's Bohemian Retro is a magical boutique full of unique vintage clothing, jewellery and accessories for women and men. One of the highlights is the beautiful collection of Vintage Lace Re-works "Be.X." by owner Rebecca Eastwood. More info at www.bohemianretro.com Facebook/bohemianretrovintage twitter/bohemianretro instagram/bohemianretro FashionLondon 36

Fashionable men FashionLondon promotion

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1. Oppermann London

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Oppermann London creates luxury leather goods inspired by Swedish minimalism with a twist of London style. Handmade in Italy with Swedish and Italian vegetable-tanned leathers, each product is made to stand the test of time. Available at: www.oppermann-london.com | +44 2030 868 546

2. Steel & Jelly

Introducing the new limited edition 1 of 72 shirt collection. From abstract florals to novelty animal prints, these shirts make the perfect Christmas gift.

Shop at www.steelandjelly.com or visit their flagship store at Grand Central, Birmingham.

Style Code/Price: CL1178MT – was: £42, now: £31.50

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3. Vision Express

Modern and effortlessly stylish, the Heritage collection introduces the best quality handmade Italian acetate into a premium own range from Vision Express. Real leather inserts give these frames the highest expression of luxury. Designed for peak comfort, the tortoiseshell design is lightweight yet durable. www.visionexpress.com

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4. Meller

Meller is an online brand selling sunglasses and watches that personify fashion and high quality. www.mellerbrand.com

5. Shreddies

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Shreddies offer the perfect solution for all flatulence related issues. Their award winning and stylish designs feature an activated carbon back panel which neutralises all odours and is so discreet that nobody would know you were wearing them! Prices start at £24 www.myshreddies.com

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6. My Kind Of Tie

Our Dashing Sheldon tie is not for the fainthearted gentleman. The bright red background contrasts with the black, grey and wine checkered print, designed in a graphic and modern fashion.

Team it with a sharp black suit to let your tie do the talking. Price of featured tie, £15. www.mykindoftie.com

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7. Scaramanga

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Scaramanga is a renowned lifestyle brand offering top quality leather bags since 2006. Capturing the perfect balance of vintage style with modern function, our bags & accessories are handcrafted from Scaramanga’s original distressed leather; each bag is completely unique! Find your next bag at www.scaramangashop.co.uk

8. Punkt

Give the gift of switching off this Christmas. In a disconnected world, Christmas is a chance to reconnect with friends and family; the gift of a nofrills (calls and texts, only) MP 01 mobile phone is a way of achieving this all year. punkt.ch

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FashionLondon style

Fashion favourites Party loud

by Mark Cullum Like an empty merlot in a round of spin-the-bottle, the party season has swung back around and this year it’s asking for some serious game. You can always count on the mega minds of the industry to up theirs, and at a time of the year when the socks come up but our hair comes down, Fashion London finds just what you need.

Gucci at Mr Porter £1,450

Jil Sander at Mr Porter £280

Santoni at Mr Porter £540

Lanvin at Mr Porter £50 Etro at Mr Porter £255

We love the subtle yet rather lavish blue shade hiding within the black leather

MEN It’s time to take a walk on the wild side with Mr Porter who has conjured up some rather brazen pieces for your winter wardrobe. Add a daring touch to your party looks and stand out from the crowd with dramatic prints and luxe separates that will help keep your night in full swing. As Del Boy always said: He who dares, wins. And he did… at least that one time.

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FashionLondon style WOMEN Mamma mia! Harvey Nichols has only gone and stolen all that is precious in the world of Italian design. At least that’s what their latest campaign declares anyway. And in the run up to Christmas as well? Typical. Though fret not as we have fought for our side and brought back a selection of the finest party pieces from some Italian fashion favourites. Bellissimo!

Never, ever, underestimate the power of the LBD – especially from these guys.

Dolce & Gabbana at Harvey Nichols £1,200

Valentino at Harvey Nichols £620

Gucci at Harvey Nichols £420

Fendi at Harvey Nichols £460

Armani Collezioni at Harvey Nichols £410

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FashionLondon economy

by Abi Adeosun

Fashion and the Economy

Miss Selfridge

Images sourced from PRShots

No expense spared for a fashionable Christmas FashionLondon 40

FashionLondon economy Burton Christmas Party

Christmas seems to start earlier every year. The preparation to get the decorations just right, choosing the perfect gifts for family and friends and making sure it is the most magical time means that we are starting as early as September, and spending more and more. According to a recent report by CapGemini, there is a 76% increase in sales of gifts purchased in September as Britons splash out more on presents for friends and family. The latest figures from the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index reveal that shoppers in the UK spent a total of £5.2 billion online during September (year-on-year growth of 23%), equivalent to £85 per person. This is the highest growth since pre-recession levels.

In addition to spending more in general on presents every year, there has been a growth of purchasing gifts online according IMRG which has far exceeded expectations and is a higher increase compared to high street sales. We as a nation spent £114bn online over the Christmas period in 2015.This is an 11% increase from the 2014 Christmas period. e-Retail now accounts for an estimated 27% of the total retail market and we are expected to see more growth this year.

In particular sales of fashion is strong according to IMRG Director Tina Spooner. She explains; “October was another strong month for online retailers, with Britons spending £1 billion more online than the same month last year. Sales of clothing were particularly strong with this sector consistently outperforming the total e-retail market FashionLondon 41

Blueinc Christmas

FashionLondon economy Pretty little thing

Pretty little thing

during 2010. As retailers gear up for the lucrative festive trading period, the evidence from the Index suggests those with a strong online presence will reap the rewards over the coming months”.

This increase in spending over the Christmas period is supported by the popularity of Black Friday deals that takes place in November.

Originally an American only tradition, Black Friday is the name given to the shopping day after Thanksgiving. It got its name because so many people went out to shop that it caused accidents and sometimes even violence. With the internet and the global economy we have seen this tradition spread across the world with retailers seeking to create a new spin on the historically sad day, and capitalise on the time that consumers spend vast amounts of money.

Fashion retailers, River Island, ASOS and H&M (Hennes &

Mauritz) have always offered great deals during this time with H&M going one step further with the release of their Black Friday fashion collection. Available for a limited time, the collection featuring all black fashion items, luxe bomber jackets with printed motifs, black faux leather pants, velour track suit, cut out and lace detailed tops, bodysuits, graphic tees, faux leather pants, black and grey tulle dresses and cozy knits will at least keep you snug through the Christmas and the winter months.

With the pressure on to get great presents for family and friends and the desire to get the best party outfit, the demand for great online deals and fashion online is not going to go away any time soon. It seems we are seeking the best we can in fashion and other festive purchases to make the most of this expensive magical season.

FashionLondon promotion

EVERY DAY 7 YOUNG PEOPLE, AGED 13 TO 24, ARE DIAGNOSED WITH CANCER. We want to make sure they all have access to the specialist care and support we provide, no matter where they live. But right now, for every young person we can reach, there’s one we can’t.

YOU CAN HELP US REACH EVERY YOUNG PERSON WITH CANCER Please text ‘GIVE’ to 70500 to give £5 to help our vital work.

JODIE, 15 Teenage Cancer Trust will receive 100% of your donation. Teenage Cancer Trust will text you once to thank you and a second time to ask if you’d like to hear more news. They won’t contact you again if you don’t reply. This is a charity donation service for Teenage Cancer Trust. It costs £5 plus one standard message. Always ask the bill payer’s permission. The mobile payment helpline is 03306600425.

Teenage Cancer Trust is a registered charity: 1062559 (England & Wales); SC039757 (Scotland) Photo: Nick Miners

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FashionLondon promotion

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Opuline’s handmade pieces echo the beauty of The East and its enchanting and decadent culture. Featured here are our Maya earrings. Opuline’s timeless and exotic creations match the true essence of an empress. Available at: opuline.co.uk/ @opuline

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A family owned and operated British company that produces luxury cosmetics and donates a percentage of profits towards Breast Cancer. Made from the finest organic natural ingredients, their stocking filler certainly makes a perfect gift. www.appleandbears.com

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FashionLondon Technology

Never lose your bags again

by Abi Adeosun

When Londonbased design studio Issara smashed their Kickstarter goal to release an innovative collection of trackable leather bags, we couldn’t resist taking a peek at their concept.

Issara boasts a cool collection of minimalist, ethically made, luxury quality leather goods. Founded by Rosh Govindaraj in 2014, the brand was born out of the frustration of not being able to find a welldesigned, solidly constructed leather bag at a mid-price range. Marry the unparalleled skill of master artisans with the finest materials and the result is a highly functional piece for travel and work that is strong and durable.

alongside a free app that you log into before leaving the house so that if your bag or wallet is lost or stolen, you can track it on a map, and find it! This means that not only do you have a beautifully designed fashion accessory, but you can also rest assured that you no longer need to worry about losing your accessory forever. And reverse tracking helps you also find your phone in a “bottomless” handbag – even on silent mode.

The new accessories collection has the extra advantage of being embedded with Bluetooth and crowd GPS technology. The tiny tracker works

A business underpinned by strong ethics, Issara has made a point of designing minimalist, luxury quality leather goods that are also FashionLondon 44

ethically made.Their artisans based in India and Indonesia receive fair, liveable wages and health insurance.

Tanneries (which for those who don’t know is the process where leather is manufactured) are compliant with environmental and waste management standards, plus the hides used in goods are sourced from New Zealand which is renowned for strong animal welfare laws.

Having successfully raised all the required funds from the KickStarter campaign, Issara is now well underway and the collection is available for all to see online: www.issara.co

FashionLondon Technology

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FashionLondon Aid

by Harriet Sansome

Sustainable Fashion

Plot Twist armwarmers ÂŁ21 Plot Twist beanie ÂŁ27

Crafted with love:

some heart-warming knits of the season As the temperature in the UK tends to lull in single figures, many of us begin to lust for cosy knitwear and sumptuous layers. A warm hat and scarf, or that extra pullover could be the difference in making your commute to work that little bit more bearable. But, before you all flock to the shops we want to introduce you to chic knits that are both stylish and ethical.

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FashionLondon Aid British brand Neighbourworks create unique and luxurious knitwear suitable for the whole family. Crafted with inspiration from Devon’s coastlines, stately homes and moors, the Devon based brand offer a homely touch that’s hard to find on the high street.

10 Tors Cowl £27

At the heart of the operation sits a network of Knitters who have a passion for crafting and creating quality pieces. Neighbourworks gives these people the opportunity to meet others in the community and share their love for knitting, whilst making beautiful pieces.

Ever wondered where the yarns from your clothes are spun?

Neighbourworks sources specially selected yarns from local farms and trusted UK fibre companies, so you can be sure the wool, alpaca and silk yarns that are spun through each product have the most ethically friendly and sustainable journey.

A not-for-profit organisation, each hand-crafted piece raises funds for charities and other great causes. Each Knitter gets to pick the cause their knitwear profits are donated to with charities chosen ranging from The Women’s Network to St Petrocks who help the homeless. With designs for men, women and babies, prices start at just £18.

Dartmoor Cowl £21

So you can help make a difference as well as look good simply by buying cosy knits and wrapping up warm. Read more about the brand and buy their pieces online at: www.neighbourworks.co.uk Gull Cable Beanie £30

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FashionLondon urban Jaeger aw16

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FASH N IO The City Slopes

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Urban winters may not be as gnarly as the Alpine pistes, but we all know just how grizzly it can get in the capital. It’s pleasant temperatures year-round in California, but for us in the southeast of England only one word comes to mind: unpredictable.

So from the biting cold and the blustery Thames to the troublesome Tube, Fashion London finds what you need to stay covered this winter.

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FashionLondon urban Jaeger aw16

Fracap at Harvey Nichols £240

Jaeger brings an après-ski influence to the London streets with a collection dedicated to the folks who, come rain or shine, need to keep moving. Block colours and bold stripes accentuate a sportswear vibe, while zip-off sleeves and drawstring hoods provide an active practicality. Chic yet dressed-down separates such as the fitted arrow-seam dress (complete with polo shirt collar and long sleeves) offers something flirtatious but modest – a true day-to-night piece. The gents are treated to a variety of wools such as the merino jogging suit – that’s for the off-days. Jaeger’s button-up wool twill coat is a versatile piece for dressing up or down and if you’re really feeling the chill, the reversible (red/black) puffer jacket features insulated down and a showerproof shell. You could take that one from city to slope.

And guys, if you’re getting suited up you must be getting booted up. Take it to the next step with these leather boots by Fracap from Harvey Nichols – complete with explorer laces. Ladies, combine your new urban winterwares with a faux-fur snood from Oliver Bonas for something both functional and elegant.

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Oliver Bonas £32

FashionLondon edit Images courtesy of Harrods

Gucci Medium Shoulder Bag £810

Carat Chrysler Chandelier Earrings £375

No 21 Bow Sequin Mules £660

Harrods

Feel the festive spirit at

By Harriet Sansome

‘Tis the season to look fabulous and don your most glamorous evening looks, whether it be partying before Christmas or far into the New Year. As the invites for parties start to roll in and adorn your diary, it’s time to prep your wardrobe with the most head-turning, luxury ensembles. And what better place to begin your search than London’s most luxurious department store, Harrods.

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FashionLondon edit

Miu Miu Deco Pump 105 Black Velvet Shoes £845

Burberry Exclusive Jacquard Evening Jacket £995

Corneliani Three Piece Tux £1, 555 White Shirt £175 Bow Tie £75 Saint Laurent Patent Shoes £480

Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama steel £3470

Burberry Exclusive Evening Dress Shirt £295

To celebrate the coming of the festive season, Harrods partnered with Burberry to present ‘A Very British Fairytale’. Both brands who have a quintessentially British heritage and iconic place in London’s shopping scene created the theme, described by Deborah Bee, Director of Creative Marketing at Harrods as, “nostalgia with innovation, a modern-day fairy tale with interactive elements, and of course, many special Burberry pieces made exclusively for Harrods.”

To celebrate the collaboration, British actress Lily James unveiled Harrods’ new window displays, and switched on the lights of both the shop’s famous storefront and the first ever Harrods’ Christmas tree located on Hans Crescent.

Delpozo Strapless Embellished Dress £3,899

A fabulous place to spend the day whether it be pre-Christmas shopping or January feel good fashion therapy. Harrods will get you through the party season. Below are some of our favourite picks from Harrods luxury brands, and a dazzling selection of show-stopping party wear!

To shop any of the featured clothes visit Harrods in store or online at www.harrods.com.

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Balmain Harrods Exclusive Embellished Dress £2,970

FashionLondon EDIT

Zero to plus size and everything in between

By Abi Adeosun

The fashion industry has become known for using super skinny and extremely young catwalk models. It has been argued that is because fashion designers can sometimes be bound to constraints in the production process where sample sizes are often produced as small as UK 6-8 or UK 4 meaning they need models the required size to fit them. Secondly, it has been argued that consumers prefer the look of slender models in catalogues and magazines.

(However, the social media backlash against presentations of women and models in images that do not reflect many in society demonstrates the opposite - a desire by the public to make a change). And thirdly, the fashion media often cite a commitment to pleasing both designer and consumer, and therefore the images presented are a direct response to what appeals to readers and viewers, and what appeases designers.

However, despite these possible reasons, the images of these super skinny and extremely young catwalk models that have taken part in Fashion Week shows across the world have stirred shock and disapproval.

London Fashion Week press room

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FashionLondon EDIT both females and males.

Apples and Pears fashion

The research centre for eating disorders Beat (B-eat.co.uk) state that eating disorders affect 1.6 million people in the UK, 89% of whom are female.

Those of 14-25 years of age are most affected by an eating disorder, with 5% of girls and women suffering from anorexia.

Anorexia sufferers only make up 10% of eating disorder sufferers - but anorexia is the deadliest psychiatric disease (10-20% of sufferers die). Eating disorders in England are estimated to cost the economy £80-100m with overall cost likely to be more than £1.26 billion per year (http://www.anorexiabulimiacare. org.uk/about/statistics). Beat clearly states that “The causes of eating disorders are complex, multi-factorial and not yet fully understood” and agree that it is a combination of genetic, biological and cultural factors, but that the fashion industry does however have a powerful influence which is highly toxic to some vulnerable people. Beat continued; “people have told us these images alone do not cause their eating disorder but it can make it harder for people to recover.”

As a result of their findings, Beat So, what’s in a size?

Medical professionals measure if a person is overweight or within the healthy weight range by checking their Body Mass Index (BMI). BMI is a reference to the height and weight ratio of a person; it is used to calculate if a person is overweight, obese or underweight, or if they are in the heathy weight range. In the modelling industry it is used by casting and modelling agents to get a more systematic idea of people’s shape and figure and what they may be appropriate for.

According to the World Health Organisation (WHO) a person is underweight with a BMI under 18.5 and overweight with a BMI over 24.9. A BMI that is below the critical 16-point mark is signifier of starvation.

Most of us are probably more familiar with the idea of size by referring to a dress size.

According to a YouGov survey conducted in 2013 among women in the UK, the second most desirable dress size is 12, only second to the answer; “there is no ideal dress size.” In the same survey, respondents believed that

size 14 was the most common dress size. Of course, we are all different and sizing should be considered on a person to person basis, but presenting size zero (UK size 4) as an ideal shape is clearly not ideal or desirable.

Further to this, the measurements for a size zero are bust at 31.5 inches (80cm), waist 23 inches (60cm) and hips 34 inches (86 cm). To put these measurements into perspective, the average waist of a British eight-year old is 22 inches (56cm). Hardly a realistic desirable ideal for a woman.

So, what problems arise from presenting a super skinny ideal?

One of the main concerns that medical professionals face is the connection between presentations of very slim models as the “ideal” body image and the rise in eating disorders among young people.

Symptoms of eating disorders such as anorexia, bulimia, and binge eating disorder include extreme emotions, attitudes, and behaviours surrounding weight and food issues. Eating disorders are serious emotional and physical problems that can have life-threatening consequences for

London Fashion Week press room

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launched a statement called “The Fashion World” where they called on the fashion world to “take this issue seriously and recognise the responsibility they have to use this influence in a positive way and become part of the solution, rather than being blamed for the problem”. Beat suggested that the industry should show a diversity of shape and size, and to challenge the concept that tall and slim equals beautiful.

Many studies including from Beat suggest the dissatisfaction that a young person experiences when looking at images in fashion media and their desire to diet to achieve an ideal body type, places the responsibility for causing many eating disorder cases squarely in the hands of the fashion industry.

A call for change In 2007 under an expert panel chaired by Baroness Denise Kingsmill the British Fashion Council (BFC) established the Model Health Inquiry to establish the extent of any health issues, notably in relation to body size and shape among catwalk models employed at London Fashion Week (LFW). Change started to happen. For example:

FashionLondon EDIT London Fashion Week press room

• Agents are now encouraged

to use models with healthy BMI and they are responsible for ensuring the health and wellbeing of their models.

• Social media has had a cultural input by allowing people to share and highlight images of skinny models or celebrities that have been altered to be slimmer in photography editing.

• We have seen an increase

in modelling agencies that represent models of different sizes, and there is more demand to hire different types of models.

• The high-street retailer has

responded by providing more sizes on the fashion rails and using larger mannequin sizes than the traditional ones.

Following the Model Health Inquiry, the BFC took the lead to address the recommendations in the Final Report. This included; banning the under 16’s, introducing health certification and ensuring professional standards of education and research. The “Models Guide” produced by the BFC in partnership with Association of Model Agents gives advice

to new and established models about health and wellbeing, agency matters and even refers to Beat for support if models need it.

This initial change is positive but is it enough?

Going all the way The Women’s Equality Party (WEP), the new collaborative force in British politics uniting people of all genders, diverse ages, backgrounds, ethnicities, beliefs and experiences believe that the fashion industry has not made enough effort to change the trend in using super skinny models and call for more to change the culture. The Party is calling for action on the fashion industry’s use of unhealthy and underweight models. They are demanding: 1. A commitment from fashion designers showing at LFW to exhibit a minimum of two different sample sizes in every range, one of which must be a UK size 12 or above.

2. Change in the law so that fashion models below a BMI of 18.5 must be seen by one of an accredited list of medical health professionals,

and deemed well before a modelling agency can employ or reemploy them.

3. A commitment from UKbased fashion publications to include a minimum of one plus-size (UK size 12 or above) editorial fashion spread in every issue.

4. Body image awareness to be made a mandatory and core component of PSHE curriculum, with a specific focus on media depictions of beauty, delivered by trained experts as opposed to teachers who specialise in unrelated disciplines.

Further to insisting on a commitment from fashion designers showing at LFW to exhibit a minimum of two different sample sizes in every range, one of which must be a UK size 12 or above, the WEP have launched the #NoSizeFitsAll campaign, which aims to tackle the growing number of women and girls suffering eating disorders by going to the root of the problem which they believe to be the tiny sample sizes from fashion designers. The campaign shines a spotlight on the link between

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the clothes that designers make for fashion shows, and the unhealthy images of women seen on catwalks, billboards and in magazines.

“Fashion designers are creating sample clothes that normal-sized women can only fit into after weeks of starving themselves to the point of malnutrition and fashion agencies are paying their models to be unwell,” said Sophie Walker, leader of the WEP. “This collaboration is in turn affecting women and girls across the country whose response to such pervasive imagery of extremely thin ‘role models’ is to seek to imitate their unhealthy appearance.”

The Party is also gathering cross-party support for the campaign by writing to Maria Miller, MP, to ask the Women and Equalities Select Committee to hold an inquiry to ask leaders in the fashion industry why they feel that uniformity and excessive thinness among their models is integral to their artistic vision. Walker has also written to London Mayor Sadiq Khan to ask him to withdraw funding from LFW if the industry does not make a positive change.

FashionLondon EDIT Apples and Pears fashion

“We have had an incredible response from women and men around the country who are desperate to see more diversity in the fashion industry,” said Walker. “People are tired of being presented with an unhealthy and unattainable body type in fashion shows and magazines, and are backing our campaign for real, positive change.”

Models are supporting the #NoSizeFitsallCampaign including plus-sized model and mental health advocate Jada Sezer, who models for L’Oreal and recently launched her own fashion line. Rosie Nelson is also an advocate. She started a petition last year after being told by a major London agency to ‘get down to the bone’ - despite at the time already having a BMI of 16 which is classified as severely malnourished.

Following the success of the #NoSizeFitsAll campaign, the BFC met with the WEP to discuss their demands for fashion designers at future LFW exhibits to include a minimum of two different sample sizes in every range, one of which would be a UK size 12 or above. “The British Fashion Council has responded to our campaign and we look

forward to working with them to make diversity a reality,” said Walker, “We are continuing to press on British designers to celebrate a new female aesthetic with their clothes, one that appeals to women of all shapes and sizes.”

Alongside maintaining health and wellbeing of models and aspiring models, designers, retailers and agents can inspire cultural change with the choices they make. For example, we caught up with Liz Smith from plus size fashion brand Apples and Pears Clothing who shared her views with us about the changing industry; “I believe that truly great fashion should be inclusive for all shapes and sizes.

This goes for whether it’s couture or high street clothing. For a long time, clothing has been designed with one body shape in mind.

I think the tide is beginning to turn, on the high street at least, with many well- known names now extending their range of sizes. However, both on the catwalk and in the media, the images we see relating to women’s fashion are still shown on very slim straight bodies. At Apples and Pears we have made a point of using a diverse group of models to show off our clothes,

and we find our customers really relate to that.”

Model agents such as central London based Sapphires Model and Artist Management are not keen on the term “plus size” but are committed to ensuring their models are healthy “Traditionally models are slim and in fairness this is a big part of what makes them aspirational” explains founder Neely Reyes; “The problem has arisen because brands began to use skinny models that didn’t represent what many people actually looked like or could even hope to look like. On the other hand, I think that a big part of brands using plus size models is just tokenism on their part. They see the media backlash against super skinny models so go in the exact opposite direction just to make a statement. But to be honest it’s just as irresponsible to promote an unhealthily overweight woman as it is unhealthily skinny.

But it’s also true that we are amid an obesity epidemic; just because people are overweight, brands shouldn’t pander to that or say that. Therefore, I’m not keen on brands aggressively pushing plus size models. Personally, I think the ideal dress size would be a 10 to 14. Not too skinny

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but certainly not overweight. If the industry would adopt this as the ideal I think that would be a great way to compromise while also promoting a healthy figure.”

Fashion London believe it is vital to ensure that change progresses to reach a stage where it is the norm to see fashion models at the forefront of the industry who are a mixture of healthy and realistic shapes and sizes. We must reach a stage where more young impressionable people are less critical of their body shape, and where the ideal and desirable moves closer to the natural and healthy. In the words of Sophie Walker, leader of the #NoSizeFitsallCampaign; “We want to see the true diversity of British women represented in British design, so we’re encouraging all women to stop hiding their labels, and share them instead. It’s time to show that no size fits all.”

We are fully behind the WEP campaign. We now applaud the rest of the fashion industry to follow, and to use their phenomenal influence in a truly positive way. www.womensequality.org.uk/ nosizefitsall

FashionLondon aid

Fight for the right to be yourself

by Harriet Sansome

Sadly, not all children this festive season will be happy. Childline have revealed that over the past 2 years the most growing concern for children was sadly low self-esteem and loneliness. They reported the main reason was as a result of the rise in technology, especially within younger generations, with cyber-bullying, social media and a constant desire to have the ‘perfect’ celebrity inspired silhouette at the forefront.

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FashionLondon aid

“I’m so unhappy; all I can think about is how ugly and overweight I feel. I don’t have any friends and most of my classmates call me names and poke fun at me. It makes me dread going to school every morning. If I could change the way I look I think I would be much happier. I feel so trapped and frustrated.”

These disheartening words are from a 15 year old boy who contacted the charity.

But there is a way you can show your support and encourage young people to love their body and seek their inner confidence.

NSPCC and OUTFIT have joined hands to create the scheme “Right to be me”, which focuses on raising awareness

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of confidence and self-esteem in young people. As a part of this they have created a slogan unisex sweater, available in white and grey, priced at just £22. This sleek contemporary design is a versatile piece nodding to this season’s favourite athleisure trend, allowing you to look stylish whilst showing your support for the campaign. “We’re delighted

FashionLondon aid

We are all different and the route to happiness is to celebrate this fact and not attempt to conform to a picture or a view seen in a magazine or spread across social media

to be working in partnership with OUTFIT on the ‘Right to Be Me’ campaign, which has been launched to encourage young people to be happy and have confidence within themselves. So far the campaign really seems to have captured people’s imagination, especially on social media where numerous celebrities have shared posts of themselves wearing the sweater.

The first wave sold out online very quickly and hundreds more sweaters have been snapped up in stores up and down the country, making it an excellent start to our two year partnership with OUTFIT”, an NSPCC spokesperson stated.

Amongst the host of celebrities who have been backing the cause, Instagramming

themselves in the sweater to raise awareness amongst their thousands of followers, is Josh Cuthbert, singer from Union J. “We are all different and the route to happiness is to celebrate this fact and not attempt to conform to a picture or a view seen in a magazine or spread across social media.

This is the message that is at the heart of ‘Right To be Me’, and is why I am fully supportive of the campaign being run by the NSPCC and OUTFIT”, he stated.

The NSPCC’s overall aim is to stamp out all forms of child abuse throughout the UK and Channel Islands. Their Childline service provides 24 hour support for children who need help, and who often have nobody else to

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turn to. The charity is funded almost entirely out of voluntary donations, meaning your contributions are vital. Support the NSPCC and this specific campaign by purchasing your sweater now from OUTFIT, online at www.outfitfashhion. com or within a number of their key stores across the country.

100% of all proceeds go directly to Childline, meaning that every penny of your money will help young people find their voice and have somebody to lean on.

Wear your sweater proudly, showing people everywhere to love, and be confident about their body.

For more information on the work that Childline and NSPCC do visit www.childline. org.uk and www.nspcc.org.uk.

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FashionLondon style

Style in Motion

All images sourced from V&A press room website

by Abi Adesoun

Past, present and future at the V&A A century of fashion education FashionLondon 60

FashionLondon style Established in 1852 the V&A has made works of art available to all, educating the public and inspiring British designers and manufacturers. The world’s leading museum of art and design houses a permanent collection of over 2.3 million objects that span over 5,000 years of human creativity. The Museum holds many of the UK’s national collections, and contains some of the greatest resources for the study of architecture, furniture, fashion, textiles, photography, sculpture, painting, jewellery, glass, ceramics, book arts, Asian art and design, theatre and performance. Fashion London looks specifically at how the museum has celebrated fashion through the years.

Head to the fashion room and what will you see? At the V&A you can learn about dress and attire from the largest and most comprehensive collection in the world. This includes the rarest 17th century gowns, 18th century ‘mantua’ dresses, 1930s eveningwear, 1960s daywear and post-war couture. Such a collection of fashion allows us to learn about history more broadly, offering an invaluable insight into how people lived. Just by looking at something as simple as skirt lengths or hat styles we can get a feel for what society’s

House of Holland

House of Holland

Kenzo

influences were, about society’s beliefs and how these developed. In addition to looking at how fashion evolved we can learn how innovative ideas have paved the way for the designers of today. Did you know that; “the English dressmaker, Charles Frederick Worth (1826–95) is credited with ‘inventing’ the fashion show where he would present his clientele with collections of his designs, four times a year. This revolutionised the dressmaking process, as previously customers had ordered their own bespoke designs.”

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Marvel in fashion history whilst absorbing current fashion at the V&A’s “Fashion in Motion” series. This programme is a spectacular series of live catwalk events featuring some of the greatest international fashion designers of our time in the surroundings of the museum. British fashion designer Christopher Raeburn was the subject of the V&A’s first Fashion in Motion of 2016 where four free catwalk shows were staged in the Museum’s Raphael Gallery showcasing key pieces from Raeburn’s collections in

FashionLondon style menswear, womenswear and accessories. The Fashion in Motion series also provided a stage for House of Holland to celebrate their 10-year history in October 2016 by showcasing highlights from womenswear collections across the history of the label.

House of Holland

Don’t miss the current fashion exhibition. You can catch “Go now: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear” until, 12 March 2017.

Taking place in the Fashion Temporary Exhibition Space, the exhibition uncovers the evolution of underwear design from the 18th-century to the present day. Featuring over 200 examples of underwear for men and women, the exhibition highlights the enduring themes of innovation and luxury. From the custom-made, such as a rare example of homemade ‘stays’ worn by a working woman in England in the 18th-century, to pieces by current designers including Stella McCartney, Rigby & Peller and Paul Smith, this exhibition explores the relationship between underwear and fashion. It covers notions of the ideal body, and the ways that cut, fit, fabric and decoration can reveal issues of gender, sex and morality.

The V&A museum makes a fun and educational day out for all the family, so with time on your hands during the festive season why not take a trip to Cromwell Road, London, SW7. Find further information at https://www.vam.ac.uk/visit V&A image library

ERDEM

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FashionLondon promotion

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FashionLondon edit

the perfect dress

by Abi Adeosun We first spotted, Emile Vidal Carr at the beginning of 2016 when we snapped up a navyblue dress for the Fashion London Valentine’s special issue photoshoot. It was difficult to choose only one item from the beautiful selection of cleverly crafted masterpieces and tailored dresses, so the quietly spoken, hard-working designer has therefore been on our radar ever since.

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FashionLondon edit

“Tailored” design is not quite the word international designer Emile Vidal Carr would use to describe his work. Instead the British designer refers to engineering and the technical skill required in how the hand-crafted dresses are designed, cut and put together. Every cut and every stitch is a celebration of “slow fashion,” mathematically drawn, meticulously planned, deliberately pieced together and resulting in a collection of high quality, elegant dresses that represent timeless style.

So how do you “engineer a dress?” Is there a science behind creating that perfect silhouette?

The Emile Vidal Carr brand uses principles derived from the designer’s passion for art and architecture. Launched in 2013 with the aim of creating structured, wearable fashion for women, the collection includes dresses crafted from technical fabrics, with some items being constructed from soundproofing fabric. “Engineering a dress commands the same respect and attention to detail as a watch maker or an architect,” explains Carr. “In comparison, high street fashion is an anathema

against this narrative.” Having worked at major fashion houses from Alexander McQueen to Roland Mouret as a technician, Carr has brought together the best of the skills he has acquired to create his own technique and style that are unique to his signature creations. “I love architecture, “says designer Emile Carr, “so I use my fascination for structure and translate that into my designs, which adds to the very distinct style.”

The designs, such as the “Elkin” dress represent a modern-day romance; the contrast of feminine pleats with a structured fabric, the sweet-heart neckline with the zip detail all present a modern take on a love story. Maybe it reminds us of our love of London – the stunning urban structures in our city which the designers’ edgy but feminine creations mirror. There is more in the collection that can appeal to different people. The “Elora” skirt for example is a full black skirt with detailed waist band. Worn to work, it can be paired with a crisp white blouse but adding a favourite pair of heels will make an impact for after work drinks aswell. Add colour to your wardrobe with the “Debbie” dress, or try corporate chic in the “Eliza” dress. The “Eugina” coat (available in either black or cream) makes the reason for wearing a coat far more than just to keep warm. The designs are romantic but strong. Every dress in the collection represents strength and power. Through clever engineering techniques, the designer has crafted a feminine look using part sustainable and technical materials that are comfortable FashionLondon 65

and easy to wear.

We look forward to seeing his anticipated new collection which he explains he gained inspiration for from a recent visit to Sierra Leone and Mauritius. Talking about the future Carr looks forward to expanding the production side and eventually owning his own factory. His other goals include supporting the future of fashion. Designer Emile Carr explains that playing a part in developing the skills of the next generation of designers is important. He has run adult sewing classes, mentored students attending London College of Fashion and held a talk covering the highs and lows of running a business. He has also been selected onto the PG Certificate programme, funded by University of the Arts London that will strengthen his ambition to support more new designers. “I set up a sewing school called ‘The Dressmakers’ with a couple of business partners. We run classes for beginners, intermediate and advanced. The advice we give to new designers is primarily to have fun as all creativity is born from this.

Additionally, patience goes a long way, as with any craft, take your time and love what you do.”

You can find the collection in Wolf and Badger, Mayfair and online www.littleblackdress.co.uk www.emilevidalcarr.com www.fb:facebook.com/emilevidalcarr www.twitter.com/emilevidalcarr www.instagram.com/emilevidalcarr

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