Fashion london Issue 18 by Fashion London

London

F ashion

Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luxury guide to fashion for men & women

issue 18

coach.com

FashionLondon editor

editor’s

Letter I love London, fashion and of course love Fashion London magazine. It is therefore a pleasure to edit the first of our quarterly issues. The fashion industry in London, and the UK as a whole, is growing and blossoming, and we are proud to remain the luxury, free print and digital London fashion magazine which showcases this. And although we may be predominantly London based we continue to link London and Paris fashionistas through our presence on the Eurostar trains digital entertainment system. This issue is an exciting one as we have the sensationally beautiful and renowned British supermodel Naomi Campbell gracing our front cover, with

a full feature inside. This formidable woman has been incredibly successful and has achieved an immense amount throughout her career. Setting her mark firmly on the fashion world she was the first British black model to appear on the cover of British Vogue and has graced the runway for top designers, including Chanel and Versace. However, her success doesn't stop there. She has made an impact on the world of charity where she has been responsible for a large amount of fundraising, starting with her charity work with Nelson Mandela. We covered her work on Fashion For Relief (which she started in 2005) in a previous issue, where she has now raised millions of dollars through fashion shows around the world.

In this issue we have introduced a new regular feature to this issue called Style Spotlights (see page 52), and we continue to bring you all our traditional regulars such as Fashion and Charity, Sustainable Fashion, and Fashion in the Economy. In the latter (see page 42) we explore the growth of modest clothing in the fashion industry. Enjoy your fashion read! www.fashionlondon.co

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FashionLondon editor

editor’s

picks AMI available at Liberty London £205

Hilfiger Edition available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900 White Cotton Chino £160 Fine Knit Cardigan POA Floral Slides POA

Helmut Lang available at Liberty London £310

Gucci available at Liberty London £645

Tommy Hilfigeravailable at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900 TommyxGigi Striped Bathingsuit £110 TommyNow Cropped Sweater POA TommyxGigi Striped Wedges £115

Aqaq £140

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FashionLondon contents

Contents

unique or new for issue 18 14 STILL ‘SUPER’ AFTER ALL THESE YEARS 22 LONDON SKYLINE 52 STYLE SPOTLIGHTS

Regular Features 10 CATWALK INDULGENCE: Catwalk Forward 34 TREND OF THE MOMENT: Modern Utility SONG MEN SS18

38 FASHION FAVOURITES: Tropical Summer

Fashion London www.fashionlondon.co

42 FASHION AND ECONOMY: The rise of modest fashion

Publisher – 17Stars Ltd General queries – contact@fashionlondon.co Advertising queries – advertising@fashionlondon.co

48 SUSTAINABLE FASHION: Bombs to Beauty 58 FASHION AND CHARITY: Step out in charitable style

Editor-in-Chief – Clare Farmer editor@fashionlondon.co

Graphic Manager – Nicholas Birkett www.smart-page.co.uk Chief Contributor – Abi Adeosun Contributors – Harriet Sansome, Margarita Lievano and Karen Anne Overton

61 UP AND COMING DESIGNER: ‘’Creatures and Creations’’: Mary Katrantzou’s artistic collaboration

Cover Image – Naomi Campbell

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Full and part time courses for adults

Enrolment starts on 26 June for courses starting in September 2017! • New learners enrolling need to bring their passport as proof of identity and proof of benefits dated within the last 3 months prior to confirming your place (if claiming a reduction in fees). We have a Learner Support Fund available to support with course fees. You will need to produce a completed LFSF form at the time you enrol. Details of the types of evidence required is available in the course guide, on the website and in the guidance documents available in reception. • Some courses require an assessment before you can enrol and this will commence on 11 July 2017. Please check the website for more information: www.wmcollege.ac.uk and book onto an early session to avoid disappointment. • For courses that do not require an assessment, you will be able to enrol online or in person from Monday 26 June 2017. • Want something fun and exciting to do over the summer? Enrol onto our Summer Studio Courses taking place from 28 June to 21 July. These are short, one or two day, courses available over the summer months to help you experience the great subjects we have on offer at WMC -The Camden College in London. More info: http://www.wmcollege.ac.uk/course/summer-school/

Enrol early to secure your place.

10% ‘early bird’ discount on enrolment between 26 June - 25 August 2017! * T&Cs apply *T&Cs for 10% discount: • Only applies to learners enrolling and paying in full (therefore does not apply to anyone paying by instalments or to any loan funded enrolments) • Is not available to learners already receiving 75% discount on community learning funded classes. • Learners cannot claim more than one discount e.g. Freedom Pass or early bird – not both.

Enrol NOW! www.wmcollege.ac.uk Call: 020 7255 4700 email: enrol@wmcollege.ac.uk

WorkingMensCollege

@WMCollege

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WMC - The Camden College graded Outstanding Overall by Ofsted in 2013

FashionLondon style

Catwalk Forward

by Abi Adeosun

The fifth anniversary celebration of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) took place in June 2017. Organised by the British Fashion Council (BFC), LFWM has seen and encouraged great growth of the UK menswear industry. According to the statistics from Mintel, the men’s clothing market grew by 2.8% in 2016 to reach £14.5 billion. Menswear now accounts for 27% (up 2% from 2016) of the total clothing market as sales of menswear continues to rise at a faster rate than womenswear. Menswear is predicted to grow by 12.43% between 2016 and 2021 to reach a massive £16.2billion in sales. Fashion London take a “Catwalk Forward” look into ss18 at the key trends for menswear according to the designer presentations shows in LFWM June 2017. all images from London Fashion Week Men's live shows

St James London’s famous Jermyn Street was closed and transformed into a runway space for LFWM June 2017. Designers from the St James’s area displayed their collections in one collaborative show. 25 brands participated in a runway show, which included heritage brands such as New & Lingwood, Turnbull & Asser and Aquascutum to present their ss18 collections.

St James London LFWM SS18

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FashionLondon style What We Wear Described as the “contemporary brand inspired by the wardrobe of the modern man” the ss18 collection epitomises the sports luxe look that Londoners love. Great for activewear but also great for a relaxed weekend afternoon, What We Wear is a London based brand that incorporates timeless British style with modernity, redefining the traditional sports silhouettes.

What We Wear

Michiko Koshino A favourite of celebrities such as Stella McCartney, David Bowie and Moby to name a few, designer Michiko’s designs and personality have become interlinked with the prolific London club scene and represent a feel good factor for wearers. For ss18, the collection is sporty, bright and youthful and the overall look portrays a futuristic edge to a streetwear favourite.

Michiko Koshino LFWM SS18 Photo by Joe Harper

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FashionLondon style Blood Brother Do not settle for an ordinary suit. Be unique and redefine the everyday. With a nod towards a utilitarian visual language, Blood Brother fuses contemporary fashion design and original ideas with comfort and functionality.

Blood Brother SS18

Songzio Candy stripes and crisp white suits, the ss18 Songzio Collection is so cheerful that it will leave you in a daydream all summer long. Songzio's unique designs use delicately tested oils and colours to create the vertical candy stripes. Through this artful texture, colour and

contrast, each collection emanates the intensity, passion and strength of the house. The designs are described as “art meets craft, strength meets delicacy and elegance meets modernity.”

SONG MEN SS18

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w w w. l a v a n y a c o o d l y . c o m

FashionLondon EDIT

STILL

‘SUPER’ AFTER ALL THESE YEARS by Karen Anne Overton

Feisty, fabulous and stunningly beautiful; the only thing that has changed about Naomi Campbell is her capacity to be the calm at the centre of her own hurricane.

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FashionLondon EDIT After 31 years as a top fashion model, Naomi Campbell has seen immense success and achieved a dominant status in the world of fashion and beyond. Those familiar decades-old stories of diva demands and a powder keg temper have all somehow added (rather than taken away) from this woman’s allure. Unlike many cult icons of her status, not only is the brazen Londoner still alive and kicking, she remains breathtakingly beautiful, not to mention, impossibly fabulous. “It’s an industry I’ve never wanted to remove myself from,” she says. “Once you’re in, you’re hooked. This industry tends to dispose of you before you dispose of it.” Not Naomi. At 47 years young, she gives models 30 years her junior a run for their money, and still lands top fashion campaigns. She is also not averse to the odd stint on the catwalk, particularly if the show is for her charity, Fashion for Relief, which she founded on a whim 12 years ago upon witnessing the heartbreak of families affected by hurricane Katrina in New Orleans. The idea was simple: a fashion show starring Campbell and some of her celebrity friends, with all funds going to support the chosen cause. “For me it has been a privilege to raise money for these causes,” she says, sagely. “So many disasters go unreported, and they can happen anywhere at any time, and it is always children who suffer the most.”

Once you’re in, you’re hooked. This industry tends to dispose of you before you dispose of it.

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Over the years the charity has raised millions for causes such as the Ebola crisis, the Haiti earthquake plus the Japanese tsunami, and it is now firmly on the celebrity circuit calendar. This year the event raised money for Save the Children, and took place during the Cannes Film Festival. Thanks to Campbell’s illustrious rolodex, the catwalk was graced by some of the industry’s biggest stars including Bella Hadid (in a barely-there mini dress) Kendall Jenner, Erin O’Connor and, just to confirm the host’s influential prowess, Kate Moss. Nevertheless, the highlight of the evening was undoubtedly owned by the woman herself as she strutted

FashionLondon EDIT

down the catwalk, queen-like, in a demure, full length-black and red gown, with dramatic cape detailing.

from marble, on the inside she has softened, having found a rewarding use of her fame through charity work.

For some, Campbell’s foray into philanthropy may be surprising. After all, this is a woman who pled guilty to assault after throwing a Blackberry phone at her housekeeper. Though on the outside she appears to be carved

“I’ve become a little wiser over time… calmer too,” purrs Campbell. “A lot of it has just been down to relinquishing control and learning to relax. But people will always judge you and you have to accept that. The most

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important thing for me is that I don’t live in denial about my past, or who I am right now.” Demons aside, her rise to fame could be likened to a fairy-tale. Naomi was born in Streatham to her Jamaican mother who danced in a 1970s go-go troupe called Fantastica. She was often on tour for weeks at a time. Her father, a Chinese-Jamaican,

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had left before his daughter was even born. Unsurprisingly, her early years were fraught with instability. But Campbell, from an early age, showed promise, landing a spot at famed theatre school Italia Contito to study ballet and by the age of 15 she was scouted by a model agent. The young girl suddenly found herself in the midst of a fashion revolution where models went from being merely coat hangers to stars in their own right. One of the original ‘supers’, Campbell, along with the generational names Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer, transformed the way people thought… not just about models, but about the fashion industry itself. “It was an incredible time, and the truth is, we were all genuinely close,” she explains. “But I don’t think you can really compare

it today because it was far more intimate. The internet has ensured we’ll never have that back. There was so much more mystery and intrigue.’’ “It was the photographers and designers who championed the models then; now there are so many girls wanting to do this job. I couldn’t tell you how to stand out from the crowd.” Last year Campbell reunited with her ‘super’ pals, for Balmain’s spring campaign. Shot by Steven Klein, the exquisite series of images - featuring Campbell, Schiffer and Crawford - are a perfect meeting of classic and contemporary, as the three old friends move with synergy and grace in the illustrious French fashion house’s finest figure-hugging confections. For Balmain’s head designer Olivier Rousteing, the snagging of the supers was a dream come true. “All the people FashionLondon 18

FashionLondon EDIT

Campbell, from an early age, showed promise, landing a spot at famed theatre school Italia Contito to study ballet

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FashionLondon EDIT

who love Balmain have this nostalgia of the power of fashion in the 1990s when models were iconic—and this is always what I push,” he said. “When you love Balmain, you love Cindy, you love Naomi, and you love Claudia. It’s natural because they are iconic, they are powerful, and they are strong—and they make a lot of people love fashion.” The Balmain campaign is significant because Campbell is incredibly picky about who she works with as a model; not

just because she can afford not to work, but because much of her creative energy these days goes into her second career as an actress, with recent roles in Empire and American Horror Story. It should come as no surprise then, that when Kanye West called to ask Campbell to walk in his Madison Square Garden listening-party, fashionshow extravaganza, she thought long and hard about it, with it seeming the location, rather than the designer, finally winning her FashionLondon 20

over. “I’ve always wanted to walk in a show at Madison Square Garden!” she exclaims. On social media she exhibits a similar restraint; hailing from a generation where less was always more. “I give very little of my private life away on Instagram. It’s important that you maintain an air of mystery, and keeping people guessing little bit,” says Campbell. “Besides, after all those years in front of the camera, I hardly know how to take a photograph.”

www.angelicatimas.com

FashionLondon PHOTOSHOOT

Photographer

Margarita Lievano

www.madeinlondon.photo Models

Chiara Gennari, Alisha Safo Make up and Hair

Radka Vackova Skylines in London are simply stunning, but this renowned, celebrated and inspiring city doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop there. Our capital endlessly produces and presents fantastic fashion talent and we have chosen here to present an up and coming designer, surrounded and complemented by well-known brands. Observe how her designs shine alongside, and with, the establishedâ&#x20AC;Ś

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1 3 5 7

Imbrodery leather top by Yirga Leather £319 Blue royal bikini by American Apparel £25

Green turquoise skin goat leather jacket by Yirga Leather £473 Fringe swimwear by Zara £30

Short leather cover up by Yirga Leather £216 Bronce swimwear by Yirga Leather £60

Mustard suede jacket by Yirga Leather £470

2 4 6 8

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Green turquoise skin goat leather jacket by Yirga Leather £473 Fringe swimwear by Zara £30

Leather jacket by Yirga Leather £473 Body by La Perla £245 Boots by Ash £300

Bicolor biker jacket by Yirga Leather £550 Hot pants by La Perla £75 Boots by Ash £300

Bicolor gilet by Yirga Leather £575 Fishnet tights by Topshop £14

FashionLondon promotion

Enrolment at WMC The Camden College starts 26 June!

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Page 1

GE 2016

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At WMC-The Camden College, we aim to provide you with the best possible learner experience to help you develop and progress personally by expanding and enriching your skills and experience. We offer a wide range of high tting • Fashion Designquality • Fine Art in•a Illustration education variety of subjects from full time accredited to part time fun courses; all delivered in our local & friendly community based college mics • Photography • Jewellery • Interior Design across two sites in Camden – Mornington Crescent and Kentish Town.

At WMC-The Camden College you will be learning alongside people who, like you, are embarking on their own learning journey. Whether you are retraining, preparing for the next step in your career, or looking for something fun to do, we have a wide range of part-time and short courses that will enhance

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We work closely with Camden Council and this enables us to provide more learning opportunities in locally based community centres to help you improve your skills and employment opportunities. Enrolment for our courses starting from September 2017 has commenced. Make sure you enrol early to secure your place.

We also have a 10% ‘early bird’ discount on enrolment between 26 June to 25 August 2017 (some T&Cs apply, please check the website). For more information on the full range of courses we have available please visit: www.wmcollege.ac.uk/ courses where you can easily enrol online for many courses. Some courses may require an assessment before you can enrol. Please check our website: www.wmcollege.ac.uk or email: enrol@wmcollege.ac.uk. FashionLondon 33

FashionLondon Trend

Trend of the moment by Abi Adeosun

Modern Utility Fashion that’s both functional and stylish? Yes please! Originally coined in the 1940’s, utility clothing was produced to aid the economy by reducing costs spent on fashion manufacturing and preserving as much of the raw materials needed in the production process. Manufacturers became more efficient in their working practices and people were able to get good quality styles at affordable prices. These days we love great clothes that make us look good and feel comfortable without the excess.

Wear to keep cool or layer to keep warm. The best thing about this dress from House of Fraser is its versatility.

House of Fraser £69.00

TK Maxx £49.99

Selfridges

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TK Maxx £39.99

FashionLondon Trend

Ladies classic Tee from Betty Barclay

Trench from Acne Studios ÂŁ600

Modern utility refers to traditional military and khaki but is was refreshed for ss17 with a modernist appeal. Loose silhouettes in a palette of white, cream and tan define the look. Think functional boiler suits, trench coats with crisp cottons when wearing the utility trend this season.

Astrid Andersen

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FashionLondon Trend HM Studio SS17 Runway

HM Studio SS17 Runway

Function and comfort need not be boring demonstrated when HM Studio announced the new season Studio Collection. Check out the relaxed feel, sleek lines and the Matrix style entrance effect when wearing it.

The Paul & Joe collection was inspired by the work of Warhol with parts of the collection displaying floral motifs that enhances a contemporary modernity. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great when functional, stylish fashion can also be a work of art.

Paul and Joe SS17

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This proprietary formula is safe, unique and effective. It protects skin from the outside elements, stimulates collagen production leading to firmer skin, moisturizes and improves your overall appearance from the natural aging process.*

FashionLondon style

Fashion favourites Tropical Summer by Abi Adeosun Fruity bright colours and cheerful floral patterns featured across ss17 catwalks. We selected a few of our favourite seasonal styles that are not only great for the summer holidays but will keep you feeling that summer glow throughout the warm days and for long after.

Jaunt Boticca £240.00

'Tommy Hilfiger', all available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900

Swimwear by Parys

Ted Baker RRP £79.00

Tommy Hilfiger Tape Bathing Suit £85 Available at tommy.com

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Tiffany & Co £280.00 availiable at Vision Express

'Hilfiger Denim', available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900

Swimwear by Parys

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'Tommy Hilfiger', all available at tommy.com or 0203 144 0900

John Rocha £38.00 available at Debenhams

Salvatore Ferragamo £165

Tom Ford £215.00 available at Vision Express

Ripa & Ripa Ravello

Linea £40.00 available at House of Fraser

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Jack Russell £749

Guess £45.00 available at House of Fraser

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FashionLondon promotion

Supermodel David Gandy had told British men not to be so stuffy and uptight this summer… and unbutton their shirts! British style icon Gandy, shared some top clothing tips as we continue to bask in the brilliant sunshine and sizzling temperatures. The 37-year-old star, who has been voted Britain’s most stylish and best dressed man by GQ magazine, advised: “Don’t be shy about taking your buttons down a little further on your shirts and roll those sleeves up to help stay cooler. “Look to items in a lightweight cotton, or even better, linen. This way you can look and feel smart, without overheating. “In summer it’s nice to stick to pastel tones, creams & whites. Paired with some khaki chinos or trousers you’ll feel ready for the Riviera.” Speaking as the ambassador for London Sock Company, who are on course to exceed a million in revenue in 2017, he said quality socks were in vogue at the moment, particularly at weddings. “Statement socks are really having a moment right now but it is so important to get it right. “If the groomsmen are wearing similar or same attire, a sophisticated touch would be for them to all be wearing matching socks. It’s a detail that doesn’t go overlooked.

“I believe in keeping wedding attire classic and understated. Pocket squares and socks however are a great way to add some detail, colour and individuality, whatever your role as a guest or groom.” London Sock Company, which launched in 2014, has attracted a huge amount of support and respect in the fashion world and now boasts an array of celebrity customers including Daniel Craig, Tom Hiddleston, Ryan Reynolds, Matt Smith, Ben Cohen, Pat Cash and the England rugby team.

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Alan Clarke

“Grooms can use the embroidery service to add personalisation for each individual, which is a really lovely sentimental touch when gifting to a best man and groomsmen.

FashionLondon economy

by Abi Adeosun

Fashion and the Economy

The rise of modest fashion We have seen a recent distinct rise in the modest fashion industry where exquisite feminine Islamic clothing is growing in popularity and demand. This fashion wear is presented with a blend of style and modesty - achieving a combination of modest fashion and quality of design is key in this growing industry. With such increasing popularity in the UK a country where we celebrate multi-cultural fashion, it was only a matter of time before major high street retailers took an interest in this growing industry. Department store Debenhams announced early this year that they would be working with London based modest fashion house Aab to bring and stock a dedicated modest fashion category to their stores. The collaboration is exciting for modest fashion consumers whose demand for stylish modest wear continues to increase on a global scale. Fashion London look at some of the support and influences around the world that have arguably contributed to the success of this industry.

Bouguessa - Presentation

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FashionLondon economy The Islamic Fashion and Design Council (IFDC) The IFDC is the world’s leading modest fashion and design council representing the Islamic economy and its stakeholders. With an array of products, services,

and effective training programmes for all levels designed to ensure the success of modest fashion and design in the global marketplace, IFDC facilitates

designer’s ability to access the vast growth potential. They ensure a powerful, sustainable and supportive presence for their designers. With headquarters in NYC, IFDC currently has offices in 10 countries and continuously growing. A significant event IFDC are involved with is their modest fashion shows that takes place during Torino Fashion Week (TFW) from June 29 to July 3 in Torino, Italy where designers from around the world such as Czech Republic, South Africa, Bahrain, Sultanate of Oman, Turkey, UAE, USA, Canada, Malaysia, UK and Indonesia present their collections. The recent TFW saw the launch of the official modest fashion category. By providing such a great opportunity for emerging designers to be viewed by a global market this surely boosts the industry yet further and gives new designers the confidence to develop. The selected designers also feature in joint media campaigns following Torino Fashion Week to gain further exposure on a global scale as they move further up in the modest fashion space. IFDC Chairwoman states, “it’s forward thinking of the TFW organizers in requesting IFDC to produce and curate this modest fashion category for them. It proves that this type of out-of-the-box thinking is a necessary element for mainstream fashion to discover new opportunities.”

TAIR Runway

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FashionLondon economy Speaking of the opportunities created by IFDC, Aab’s cofounder and creative director, Nazmin Alim said, “TFW and IFDC have created a historical moment for modest fashion, where for the first time a mainstream fashion week is officially recognizing a modest fashion category within their fashion week. We are excited to support and be a part of this innovative initiative”. Meeting the needs of consumers is important as voiced by Claudio Azzolini, founder of TFW and President Association TMODA; “With our approach to producing Torino Fashion Week, we hope to show a very unique outlook to the way fashion weeks can be done through our collaboration with IFDC. It allows modest fashion leaders like Aab and their retail collaborators such as Debenhams to demonstrate the united approach it takes to build beneficial opportunities for all stakeholders whilst meeting the demands of the valuable consumer.” So, is the collaboration by IFDC significant to this growing exposure? Farfetch, the online platform that meets the needs of customers by allowing customers to shop the world’s greatest selection of luxury via a Pret-A-Cover™ edit, joined forces with IFDC and dedicated a part of the platform to modestwear fashion customers. This collaboration means that a bespoke shopping

experience allows global customers to find brands and build dedicated fashion sections, making modest fashion more accessible and tailored. “At Farfetch, catering to the specific tastes and needs of our customers on a global level is always at the heart of what we do. We are excited to work with IFDC on this Pret-ACover™ initiative to provide this bespoke shopping experience to a global modest-wear audience”, said Candice Fragis, Buying and Merchandising Director at Farfetch. In addition, the Pret-A-Cover™ page on the IFDC website offers a guide to shopping tips, product advice, information and more. The innovative idea aims to give the global modest wear consumers who have a significant spending power, the success in shopping they have always desired. “Being the only retail program that helps stores create a section dedicated to customers looking for modest wear, Pret-ACover™ teaming up with Farfetch is every modest consumer’s fashion dream!” said Alia Khan, Chairwoman of IFDC who headed the design team to launch the Pret-A-Cover™ program early this year. The global reach of Farfetch that is translated in nine languages, across 11 cities makes this partnership and promising one, and further pushes the modest fashion agenda.

Hussain Bazazar

The Saverah Women Expo The Saverah Women Expo’16 hosted its second Annual expo in London last year at the prestigious Intercontinental London O2. Over 100 female exhibitors from the UK and across the world displayed their products and services to an audience of 5000, and three live fashion shows displayed collections from designers in Europe and Asia. This fashion event has fast become one of the largest Muslim women’s expos for the modest fashion industry in the UK and Europe. The Expo FashionLondon 44

shows the many ways in which Muslim women are participating in the British community in business overall as well as through fashion and how they are fully involved in progress and development as active citizens. Haiqah launched Islamic fashion store in May last year presenting to customers an array of glamorous and modest Islamic clothing at Saverah. Haiqah's CEO explained; “Handpicked to make you feel unique, at Haiqah, we believe you

can dress modestly and stylish at the same time while remaining true to your faith.” He added, “At Haiqah, we take the creation of our garments, very sincerely. The versatility of a garment, strength of a seam, size and shape of a dress are a few things thoroughly considered when creating our collection for those who appreciate modest creations. We artfully craft dresses keeping in mind the requirements of a modern woman who would want to look simple yet stylish and fashionable.”

FashionLondon economy Fashion Forward Dubai (FFWD) Fashion Forward Dubai (FFWD), endorsed by the Dubai Design and Fashion Council (DDFC) and supported by Dubai Design District has also celebrated success and contributed to the rise of modest fashion. A record number of attendees saw SS17 shows; over 10,000 guests comprised of industry leaders, fashion professionals, media and buyers descended on FFWD’s bespoke venue Hai d3 to enjoy a three-day schedule of runway shows and presentations by 33 regional ready-to-wear and couture designers. Fourteen accessory labels were on display at the showcase and visitors to the event could partake in engaging talks and panel discussions, as well as attend networking and social events.

Report 2013) the world’s Muslim population of approximately 1.6 billion people spent $224 billion on ‘clothing & footwear’ in 2012. This is expected to grow to $ 322 billion by 2018. Collectively, this clothing consumer

market is only second to the largest clothing global market – the United States. Muslim consumer clothing consumption is led by Turkey with $25 billion per annum, followed by Iran, Indonesia, Egypt,

Saudi Arabia and then Pakistan. We expect to see a continuation of the success of this market and rapid growth. We hope to see more fashion chains and brands open

Dr Amina Al Rustamani, Chair of DDFC, and Group CEO of Tecom Group, said: “Fashion Forward has provided a key platform for designers from Dubai and the wider region to showcase their work since its inception. It is also an important forum that engages the different stakeholders across the fashion design industry, ultimately contributing to its growth. This is directly aligned with DDFC’s mandate of supporting the development of the design sector in Dubai and nurturing home-grown talent, and we are looking forward to continuing our endorsement for the seasons to come.” With such support globally for modest fashionwear, the growth of this industry is not a surprise. According to the research page citing Thomson Reuters’ report (The Global Islamic Economy

Amato - Runway 030

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their eyes and embrace modest fashion in the positive way that brands such as Debenhams and Farfetch have.

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by Harriet Sansome

Sustainable Fashion

Bombs to Beauty Many of us have special pieces of jewellery. These are often sentimental, full of cherished memories and representative of a moment in history. But what if you could buy beautiful pieces of jewellery that already have their own extensive past? Well you can, and an example of that is ARTICLE 22â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Peacebomb jewellery collection.

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FashionLondon Aid Emma Watson Credit Michael Dumler

During the Vietnam War, the US dropped over 250 million bombs on Laos

During the Vietnam War, the US dropped over 250 million bombs on Laos, one of Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s poorest countries. The countless amounts of bombs dropped on Laos make it the most bombed country in history. There are sadly still millions of unexploded ordnances contaminating the land. ARTICLE 22 works with local artisans from Ban Naphia in Laos, to create unique and stunning jewellery, all carefully crafted from the bomb remains collected across the country. Creating the jewellery locally not only adds to the heritage of each piece, but also creates work opportunities that support families from the affected areas in order to earn a decent living.

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Story bomb necklace

FashionLondon Aid

Arrow Bangle - $55 Article22

Arrow Tag Wrap Bracelet - $55 Article22

With the sale of each piece, the brand works with the UK organisation MAGS (Mines Advisory Group) to demine an extra three squared metres of dangerous land, creating a lifecycle of good that will help more and more locals get into a position where they can rebuild their lives. The new collection from ARTICLE 22 is inspired by the rich culture of Laos, including the temple architecture and incorporates eye-catching green onyx stones that represent fields and forests. The arrow engraved on the sleek and minimalistic designed bangle and bracelet (pictured here) represents a point to the future without forgetting the past, making it a meaningful piece. Endorsed and recognised by celebrities such as Emma Watson, these thoughtful jewellery pieces are perfect to wear with pride. The collection is priced from around $50 and can be bought from https://shop.article22.com

unique and stunning jewellery, all carefully crafted from the bomb remains

Tetsu Kubota

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FashionLondon style

Style Spotlights by A bi A deo sun

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Fashion changes with the seasons, and whilst we love to update our wardrobe, some styles are just too good to let go! In this brand new regular feature, we look at some key recent styles that have made it into Fashion London’s spotlight.

feet

Foo even twear i s be d Cinde so spa azzl rella rkly ed! wou ld

Paul and Joe SS17 Resort

Mina Parikka Glitter embellished leather trainers £255.00

Dune Black - Enchanted - £120.00

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FashionLondon style

Nu s t r o p S Luxe

from g you he n i k a t T ops to the sh d then an gym ( o the pub) t e mayb the range ve we lo casual rts as of spo ter known bly bet wear e”. Argua r u n is “athle ny occasio a r o f great

Paul & J oe SS17 Resort

Paul & Joe SS17 Resort

Ports 1961 runway

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Po p

O bri n ma pa ght, ny s int ttern dari s17 o t s. B ng cat w he a au right nd m alks tum c co i n a olou xed w lour lw rs i ith ha ays n s ma the flora been ke sum ls a us m n sm er d ile and .

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FashionLondon style

Selfridges SS17

Lulu Guinness at House of Fraser ÂŁ155.00

Topman High Summer 2017 Topman

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FashionLondon aid Women for Women Kosovo graduates who embroidered the shoes. Credit - Amelia Troubridge

Step out in charitable style Combining fashion-forward design with a heartfelt cause, L.K. Bennett teamed up with the charity Women for Women International to create three pairs of beautiful ballet shoes that will make a welcome addition to your collection.

by Harriet Sansome FashionLondon 58

FashionLondon aid Amelia Troubridge

Sadly, we still live in a world where gender equality is not fully established. In Kosovo, South-eastern Europe this is dramatically highlighted where it is estimated that during the Kosovo War in 1999, that 20 thousand Kosovar women were subjected to rape, whilst rates of sexual assault, domestic violence and sex trafficking remained high in the years following. Now in this country women struggle to gain economic and social equality because of a patriarchal society with limited job opportunities. However, thanks to Women for Women International, a growing number of these Kosovar women have been able to find confidence in themselves and learn new skills in order to find jobs and better their own life as well as their families. Women for Women International began yearlong training programmes in areas from agriculture to handcraft and tailoring, which has not only seen women earning

more money each day but has also developed their health and wellbeing, influenced their home life decisions and encouraged a network for support among other women.

Zoja Ballet Shoes - ÂŁ145

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Recognising the good that the charity does, L.K. Bennett decided to collaborate with the charity, creating the Zoja ballerina pump. These beautiful pumps have been exclusively designed in three shades and are decorated with a stunning heart shaped appliquĂŠ that has been embroidered by Kosovar women graduates. Combined with the fashion expertise of L.K. Bennett, eight Kosovo graduates proved how much they have learnt on their training courses by delicately embroidering the hearts with colourful thread in intricate stitches. Each piece takes around two hours to create and due to being hand-embroidered, they are all different and unique. One hundred percent of profits from these pumps goes back to the Women

FashionLondon aid Eleonora Cassarini Footware Director for L.K. Bennett & Brita Fernandez Schmidt Women for Women International. Credit - Amelia Troubridge

Working on the shoes in Kosovo. Credit - Amelia Troubridge

for Women International organisation. Inspiration for the heart design came from heritage pieces of Kosovan culture, including the needlework techniques and motifs that often decorate their folk dress. The shape of the heart was chosen to demonstrate its universal symbol of love and to display how Women for Women International help women to rebuild their lives.

our Kosovo graduates and their exceptional embroidery skills. If you buy a pair of these beautiful Zoja ballerinas you are showing support to women in Kosovo, who still struggle for economic and social equality in a society that offers them limited job opportunities.”

One of the graduates from the Kosovo programme who has also worked on the L.K. Bennett collaboration said, “Women for Women International has had an impact on my life in many ways. Being part of the group of women who worked on the L.K. Bennett project is my biggest achievement so far.” - Hana Bunjaku.

The product director for footwear at L.K. Bennett, Eleonora Cassarini, praised the work that Women for Women International are doing and spoke of her involvement in the project- “What made this project a truly rewarding experience, was my direct involvement with these women in Kosovo, working together on a beautiful unique handcrafted product and insight into the wonderful work of Women for Women International.”

Brita Fernandez Schmidt, the Executive Director for Women for Women International spoke about the collaboration with L.K. Bennett stating, “This is an exciting collaboration and we are incredibly grateful to our longstanding partners L.K. Bennett for all their support over the years and for their belief in

The Zoja Ballerina Pumps can be bought online at www.lkbennett. com and in certain stores with 100% of sales proceeds being donated to Women for Women International. So buy yours now and walk with a pride in your step, knowing that with your purchase, you’re helping change the lives of other women.

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FashionLondon edit Wendy Yu, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Anna Hu and Mary Katrantzou at the Rothschild x Yu Dinner

“Creatures and Creations”: Mary Katrantzou’s artistic collaboration by Abi Adeosun Waddeston Manor in Buckinghamshire, England is well known for hosting grand events and entertaining guests, and this summer/autumn it is the venue of a very fashionable event. The Waddeston Manor exhibition ‘’Creatures and Creations’’ takes place between June – October 2017 and invites all to “Witness nature reimagined in this exhibition that sees an amalgamation

of fashion, digital art and animal specimens on show.” Included is iconic fashion designer Mary Katrantzou. The exhibition was opened with a private dinner hosted by Lord Rothschild and Wendy Yu who took the opportunity to celebrate an investment partnership with fashion designer Mary Katrantzou as part of a commitment to supporting talent in the industry.

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FashionLondon edit Mary Katrantzou's beautiful works exhibiting at the Rothschild Waddesdon Manor

Butterfly Collection Ring by Anna Hu

The spectacular collection of natural history provides the inspiration for couture dresses by Mary Katrantzou. The designer uses her unique aesthetic of crafting ‘surrealism out of realism and possibility out of impossibility’ to transform nature into three spectacular couture dresses available for the public to see. The dresses inspired by the collections of Walter Rothschild at the Natural History Museum in Tring use the same 14 species as source material to create the dresses.

Ladies at the Rothschild x Yu Dinner

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Well known for taking part in London Fashion Week, it did not take long for designer Mary Katrantzou to become a household name. Established in 2008 after studying Architecture at Rhode Island School of Design (USA) and graduating with a BA in Textile design plus an MA in Fashion from Central Saint Martins (London), Katrantzou’s innovative and bold designs earned her the nickname “The Queen of Print” by press, a name that recognised the enormous influence

FashionLondon edit ANNA HU P tales d'Amour Ring in Sapphire

SELFRIDGES Mary Katrantzou dress £1570

of her work. Her first London Fashion Week collection in 2008 sold across more than 100 stockists. Katrantzou has been the recipient of British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN award for six seasons, which has meant receiving sponsorship to produce further collections and take part in London Fashion Week for each year’s events. Winning Swiss Textiles Award (2010) and Emerging Talent Ready to Wear Award (2011) Katrantzou has also collaborated with Topshop, Longchamp and artist Pablo Bronstein. Katrantzou’s work has changed the face of twenty-first century fashion, inspiring high fashion and high street designers alike. The designer has clearly made her mark on the world of fashion and we believe she is continuing to emerge and develop as a distinct up and coming designer. The theme of the ‘’Creatures and Creations’’ exhibition works well with this designer’s signature style and is a simply fantastic collaboration. We love the colours, stripes and the psychedelic bold prints from Katrantzou’s previous collections that make her designs an iconic and immediately recognisable brand.

Free to attend, the couture dresses will be displayed at ‘’Creatures & Creations’’ in Waddeston Manor between June - 29 Oct 2017 on Wednesdays to Sundays between 11am and 5pm.

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SELFRIDGES Mary Katrantzou Liv printed stretch-cotton dress £995.00

SELFRIDGES Mary Katrantzou Printed silk scarf £295.00

Among the exhibition’s designs are other designers such as Anna Hu whose jewellery is popular among celebrities including Nicky Hilton Rothschild. Her Dancing Butterfly Ring combines precious stones into a mosaic image - a collage up close and a masterpiece on the hand. Containing no less than five opals, sapphires, moonstones, four types of diamonds and with wings that actually flutter on the finger when moving due to mechanisms built into it; the ring shows the overall high level of skill demonstrated at the exhibition and the celebration of fashion, culture and art.