FASHION SERIES aSYMMETRY by Fashion Series Archive

fashionSERIES a

symmetry

fashionSERIES Fashion Series is an electronic publication entirely dedicated to discovering, showcasing and promoting Toronto’s emerging and established fashion industry professionals. Our mission is to provide a distinct platform for fashion photographers, models, designers, wardrobe stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, bloggers, and illustrators through visual series and exclusive interviews. Fashion Series will highlight these rising stars by encouraging and unveiling their talents in the form of a cohesive photographic collection. In addition, via exclusive interviews, we aim to yield some background information about the showcased artist, the artist’s intention, technical specification, an indication of their work’s historical and theoretical context - and, at the same time, provide our readers with an invaluable insight into the world of fashion visualization.

CONTACT GENERAL INQUIRIES: info@fashionseries.ca SUBMISSIONS submissions@fashionseries.ca ADVERTISEMENTS advertisements@fashionseries.ca WEBSITE www.fashionseries.ca TWITTER: www.twitter.com/fashion_series FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/thefashionseries

FASHION SERIES ISSN 1929-4786

is the voice of Toronto’s aspiring fashion industry professionals. Available 24 hours online via www.fashionseries.ca. Entire contents are © by Fashion Series Archive unless otherwise stated.

THE TEAM CEO/EDITOR IN CHIEF Mehreen Hussain SENIOR WRITER Sarah St. Jules WRITERS Aaren FitzGerald Alesia Volchyk Jemicah Colleen Kavita Dadhe Kathlyn Rose Saima Hassan STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Polk Liang Erin Mollly Fitzpatrick ASSISTANT TO EDITOR IN CHIEF Aiysha Khan Fatima Idris Nadia Khan

COVER IMAGE CREDITS Polk Liang, photographer Michael Black, featured fashion stylist Caitlin Power, designer Kim Goodman [BOURGIE ARTISTS], makeup artist Kelly Soares, hairstylist Danielle MacDonald, model

joshua Kun luan

cj howlett

michael black

cj hamilton katherine tran

jo cr

oe ruz

paulina Szumotalska

jennifer toole

canan hosseyni

makoto nakai

joshua

kun luan sarah st. jules

There is no arguing that inspiration can be found in the waves off the coastline, the beauty in the bays and the deep blue waters that surround one. It is amidst this beautiful inspiration that Toronto-based hairdresser, Joshua Kun Luan grew up which, from a young age, got his creative juices flowing. At the age of 5, he started to learn the ancient art of Chinese calligraphy, which became the main focus of his hobbies. In his teenage years, Joshua dabbled in poetry and for a long time, he imagined being a professional writer. “I thought for long time, writing is a career which I will spend my whole life doing.” Of course, being an avid art lover, he was also attracted to careers in architecture and music. “I believe all art is connected inside... I just use a different art form to express myself.”

ASSYMETRY

photographer | ian compton hair stylist| joshua kun luan [marc anthony salon] makeup artist & fashion stylist| jonah fheonix model | kassandra love

FASHION SERIES

It is no surprise then, that the art of hairdressing ultimately became the main outlet for Joshua’s creative expression. “For me hairdressing is art; is magic.” Just like a magician’s wand tells his audience that magic is afoot, Joshua strongly believes in the magical power that rests in a hairdresser’s scissors. “Hair is the only part of the human body that you can cut, colour and reshape.” For him, a hairdresser is an artist with the magical powers of transforming a person’s entire look by simply colouring, cutting or reshaping their hair. Joshua’s own work is nothing short of magical - a real “wizard” of style. The magic comes from the uniqueness that he leaves each customer with; he is like a designer who leaves his individual signature on each client and he is damn proud of this ability. However, becoming such a skillful hair designer requires more than just love for the art. Joshua always knew that. Matter of fact, it was important to him that he be well educated in this art form. And so, determined as ever, Joshua began his extensive hairdressing education at Toni&Guy before moving onto Vidal Sassoon for more schooling. Afterwards, he started working

for Marc Anthony. “Working for celebrity hairstylist Marc Anthony was the best way to learn and absorb.” Alongside the all-encompassing education and a celebrity hairstylist as guidance, Joshua has the editorial and fashion runway experience to give him the title of a well-rounded Editorial Hairstylist. It was twelve years ago, the all-rounded and talented artist from China moved to Toronto. Besides finding the city downright inspiring, Toronto has also been the land of opportunities for Joshua. It is in Toronto that Joshua has been involved with creating looks for both Toronto Fashion Week and designer collection for a few years now. He has worked for some big name brands such as Mackage, Rouge Valley, Joeffer Caoc, Dimitri Chris and Nada. “There are a lot of industry artists that live in Toronto. I always enjoy working with and being inspired by them and this always motivates my work.” The abundance of multiculturalism in Toronto is another exciting aspect of this great city that Joshua finds attractive and inspirational.

What attracted this art lover to the fashion world as a hairstylist? “[With fashion] you always work with extremely good looking people and very talented folks,” he answers. It is in the world of fashion that Joshua finds his career as a hairdresser most exciting. Fashion is a continual source of inspiration for him. He finds extreme excitement in the fact that in fashion trends are always changing, but elegance is a constant. You can tell Joshua has a refined taste for elegance. Finding inspiration from the world-renowned British hairdresser, Vidal Sassoon who experimented with new cuts and techniques, searching for simple, elegant hairstyles, Joshua employees an intricate process when styling hair. Although he doesn’t have a signature hairstyle, Joshua does believe in making his cuts unique. “I am a believer of customized hair design. I also believe in having a strict structure inside of a haircut, because it will make the cut last longer.” Joshua’s love for hairdressing also comes out when he is cutting hair; he is often told how viewers can feel that pas-

sion just by watching him. For him, the most important aspects of it is to design a hairstyle that is catered to the client’s face, and teaching them how to use the right products for their hair. Every hairdresser has a golden rule for hair care maintenance, and Joshua’s is using the right home care products, getting a hair cut every 6-8 weeks and getting a treatment at least once a month. However, he says the biggest no-no is trying to colour or cut your own hair. At Joshua’s personal station you will always find a Marc Anthony straightening iron, Marc Anthony 10 second Miracle Leave-in Treatment and Macadamia oil shampoo and conditioner. “I suggest everybody try them because they really work and are affordable.” Trends are constantly changing in the hair care industry and as a hairdresser it is Joshua’s job to stay on top of them. He goes to professional education classes a few times a year, he attends fashion shows, he studies celebrity hair and he reads fashion magazines.

FASHION SERIES

Currently, blending different tones of brunette is what the clients are looking for, and Joshua thinks we all have Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton to thank for that! But it may have become too mainstream and so Joshua is yearning to cut a new and different hairstyle for the Duchess. Of course, celebrities being high profile clients and like most hair dressers who have a wish list of the ones they would like to work with, Joshua has his own. While he’s always inspired and pleasantly surprised by Rihanna’s constantly changing hairstyles, Joshua is itching to do Ellen Degeneres’ hair. “I think that will have a lot of fun.” Even though Joshua loves his job and the creativity it entails, there are many misconceptions and difficulties that he, as a hairdresser, faces daily. Many people think that being a hairdresser is easy, but Joshua knows otherwise. “You need talent, creativity, good business sense and hardworking abilities.” He also admits that a great hairdresser is not only skillful but also tolerant. One of the challenges that he faces is dealing with clients who “think that they

know what they want but they have no clue what they really want or what is suitable for their face.” There is, also that flux of competitive hairdressers in the industry and Joshua has made it a personal challenge to make sure he stays on top. In order to maintain clients in a city that is full of competition, Joshua treats every client individually and customizes each hairstyle by face structure. “I want every haircut to be a unique piece of art. Despite these daily challenges, Joshua has met with success and creative fulfillment as a hairdresser. His biggest achievement to date, he says, is “becoming a successful hairdresser, both artistically and as a mercantile.” For any hairdressers who are trying to break into the industry, Joshua advises, “you should always believe in yourself and always strive to improve your abilities.” He, himself, is currently preparing for the Contessa Hair Awards and the North American Hairstyling Awards. With the passion and love he has for his trade, along with the skill level he possesses, we have no doubt that Joshua may take these awards by storm.

FASHION SERIES

expansionism photographer | polk liang hair | joshua kun luan [marc anthony salon] model | mia [elite] makeup artist & manicurist | linda radan [behind the image] fashion stylist | tasha farrington [behind the image] designers | agyness deyn for dr. martens & dr. martens shoes; anu raina; coven by sonia kang

FASHION SERIES

bright warrior necklace [sylph collection] SONIA KANG raglan knitted jumper [agyness deyn] DR. MARTENS finch skirt [shopgirls.ca] ANU RAINA stockings & socks HUE shannon shoes DR. MARTENS

FASHION SERIES

three shadows necklace [urban nomad collection] SONIA KANG liam knitted cardigan [agyness deyn] DR. MARTENS finch skirt [shopgirls.ca] ANU RAINA stockings HUE lynn boots DR. MARTENS

FASHION SERIES

midnight fire necklace [sylph collection] SONIA KANG midnight dress [shopgirls.ca] ANU RAINA moto leggings VICTORY & VICE gretchen boots DR. MARTENS

FASHION SERIES

HOWLETT alesya volchyk

CJ Howlett, also known as Seage, is a Toronto-based artist, fashion illustrator, digital animator and Youtubist; all pursuits that allow him to engage aspects of his creativity in an expression unique to that of his fashion-focused illustrations. Seage possesses that magical combination of technical skill and provocative flair that brings his subject to life. While Seageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s introduction alone is of immense value - as his story will surprise you - it is something in the combination of his precise, elegant brush strokes and how he chooses and uses colours that will draw you in. Fashion Series sat down with the genius artist to talk about his art-life, fashion emotions, digital past and exciting future in this world without borders.

remember

FASHION SERIES

regal

the beginning How did you start drawing? Did anyone teach you or did you go to an art school? It’s a long complicated story. I was born in England, and sooner after that, with my parents, moved to Canada. Up till grade 7, I didn’t even know that art existed. I didn’t know anybody who could draw. I was always outside playing with rocks and hanging out with my friends on the street. But in grade 7, I met one of my good friends Eduardo. At that time, he had just moved to Canada from Philippines. He didn’t speak much English, but he could draw! I thought it was cool that he was drawing Marvel characters in pastels and then selling it to kids’ parents. So for me he was brave! Once, I invited him over and asked him to teach me how to draw. Upon his advice, I start copying pictures till I got better on my own. Then I started to draw from life, from photos, and took an art class, but shortly after that got bored – probably because of my teacher who repeatedly told me, that art was not for me. Despite this opinion, I was drawing at home and ended in a college, where I took a basic art-course. It was another disaster! I didn’t like the course, my classmates, or the teachers except for one professor, who saw one of my digital paintings and was very impressed! I was learning how to digitally paint at the same time as I was learning how to draw at school. Doing my art on a computer at home was fun, but school was just boring until I realized that I can use my home-made digital skills in painting class! Then I start painting better and better, and my teacher actually complimented me. Also, Torontonian artist, Eric Kim, kind of sparked a love for art in me and I’ve left the college without graduating. Actually, soon after that I start pursuing art as something more important, started working on it and getting better! What was on your very first piece of artwork, do you remember? It was a swan. I remember, my parents had a little calendar – which you usually got in a junk-mail from different foundations – this one was with different birds.

I was flipping the pages, looking at pictures and said to myself: “This swan looks good, let’s draw it!” Was it on computer screen or piece of paper? My first drawing was on a paper. I did a couple of sketches randomly after that, and wasn’t really happy with the result. But the first time I became serious about art and really enjoyed it, it was digital! First, I started with a computer mouse in regular way, and was drawing non-stop, but after getting a hand cramps I decided that’s time to get a tablet. I bought the cheapest tablet which I could find and start improving my technique. Do you have plans to continue your education? If you had a chance to study art abroad, what country and which art-school would you choose? I would probably travel from country to country and take classes with individual artist who I respect because for me, personal tutoring works so much better than classes with 50 people and a teacher who doesn’t know too much. I actually have a few artist around the world who have invited me to their own schools. So I will go when I have money – that’s what I’ve told them. Who are they – somebody whose style you admire the most? One artist is Zhuzhu from Shanghai. He is very famous over there. He taught me a lot! In 5 minutes he taught me more than I’ve learned in college! I don’t know why but he took me under his wing. Once when I was really upset, I sent him a message via e-mail just saying that I was feel like garbage and I wouldn’t be able to improve my skills ever, and the other stuff. He answered and admitted the same things. He was going through the same emotions at that point of his life. We continued to talk back and forth, and he invited me to his online art class, which was in Chinese, but he would translate it for me. I’ve learnt so much about colour, lighting, gestures, strokes... He was very nice to me (and he still is), but has become very busy now.

FASHION SERIES

pool

the artist What does Seage mean, by the way? I’ve checked all dictionaries by searching the meaning of your unusual name – didn’t find anything common to Seage! Actually, it’s a spelling mistake. My name is Courtney James – CJ for short. But when I was a kid I decided to have a cool nick name, and came up with Seage by mistake. I didn’t know how to spell ‘seige’ correctly at that age so I ended up with “Se”+”Ge”. Since then, everybody calls me Seage. Usually I use my nick name for e-posts, or web-sites, digital art. Seage is an official part of my creative life. Usually creative people “inhale” inspiration during long journeys to foreign countries, hidden parts of the world. Do you do the same to inspire your mind? Where do you get your art-emotions from? I don’t need this girly soft stuff [laughs]. I just can do drawing. I understand your point: I need to be in creative mood but as a commercial artist, I don’t have that luxury. Of course, if it came my way, I would take it in a heartbeat. So, life is my motivator in many ways, including the reason why I am continuously working. It is easy for me to get inspiration from actually working. Right now, I am lucky because I am still living with my family, but if I were to live on my own, I would work even harder - no time for inspiration. I need to sustain myself, so I need to do job which will bring me that money. It sounds like brutal reality? It is reality. I am not classically trained, I am not from fine-art side, I am from commercial side. I’ve always been trying to make money from my art. I had no emotional attachment to character, I’ve never cried when I sold a piece. Being digital, I can just make and print another copy. There is no real original except for the original file in a digital illustration. At the very beginning of your drawing process do you have an idea, or a silhouette in your mind? No. I am more an explorer, which is awesome. I make

a whole bunch of marking, and my brain is doing the shape recognising. I am looking around my piece, making marks, and I am making a story in my head, which allows me continue on with it. Of course, when I am working, I have a theme which guides me, but I am still searching at the same way. Do you sometimes feel a need to go to an art-gallery or somebody’s exhibition to clean your art-perception? I don’t really need to go anywhere for that and I don’t go to galleries too often, which is probably bad. I’ve been to Ontario Art Gallery a few times, of course. There were some really good pieces there. But I don’t know many places in Toronto to go art-wise – only few. Does Canadian culture generally and Toronto particularly inspired you a lot? Is Toronto a good place for an art and artists? It’s very up and down. Toronto is a business-city way more than an art-city. Everybody is busy, everybody is cold. But if you really dig for it, there’s a lot of beauty here too – like China-town or Korean-town with its own cultures. But for the most part – it’s just annoying. From my little travel experience – and I haven’t gone very far – Montreal is a city which has really inspired me! Old Montreal is beautiful and thepeople are very friendly. That’s just inspiring by itself! Even going back-home to the Peterborough, England, inspired me a lot: some old houses with straw roofs, old country side, green grass – it’s amazingly beautiful! And being here, looking at all those grey buildings, glass boxes, etc. – not fun! How do you manage to draw inspiration from differnt cultures in a multicultural city like Toronto yet maintain your individual style? I pull everything in – all these customs, cultures, arts from all around the world - taking a little bit of everything but not do not “steal”. That’s not going to happen. I try to figure out the thoughts behind the work process – that is, why the artist did this, what inspired them, but I don’t mimic.

FASHION SERIES

city side

FASHION SERIES

umbrella

the style How would you describe your style? If you are going to introduce yourself to a stranger, how would you describe what do you do for living? I would love to say: “Hey, my life is perfect, everything is fine” - but no! I have to say: “I am still an upcoming artist and I am not very well-known”. I would also say that I was a fashion illustrator, but that I am also a concept artist and a fantasy illustrator as well. Now I call myself a creative media-artist – I came up with this name to be able to describe my style. I like it! Me too! It actually sounds pretty cool. Sometimes people ask “It sounds fancy, but what does it mean?” It takes me a long time to explain, because it basically encompasses everything to do with digital art. I‘ve also started incorporating Youtube videos into my portfolio because I want it to be a part of my career. Tell me about fashion illustration. What exactly does it mean: you are drawing but don’t create a collection afterward. How so? Yes, it’s kind of different. First, when I started drawing, I thought I wanted to be a fashion designer. Later, I realized that I didn’t want to sew, I am more about expression. Design is a very technical thing (even if it doesn’t look so), and also it’s about how some fabrics and silhouettes go together. This is why I feel that an illustrator is an indispensable figure in the fashion process, because he can tweak images, which visually makes every detail look beautiful. A camera can’t capture a picture which doesn’t exist in reality, and this allows illustrators to essentially build something out of nothing. My work doesn’t need to look too realistic in any way, I don’t have to have proper anatomy for drawing a face. Also, with illustration, I can take any direction and express myself in anyway. That’s why I feel digital drawing is totally different than anything else and it has no borders.

Do you have “academic name” for your style? I would just call it “ME”. That’s really the only way to describe what I do. I have been inspired by artists in past, most notably Claude Monet, who I looked up to at the beginning of my career. However, when I started looking for an art-style which I felt comfortable in, I was a little bit lost. Then, my friend, and teacher, told me, “don’t look for style, the style is in you”. I was so lucky to get this advice at the very beginning of my career. That’s when I stopped looking to fit in a particular category of art. Afterwards, I just started painting and slowly things I enjoyed, things I felt, and things I saw became different because they became personal. This brought me to my personal style, which I don’t have academic name for so let’s call me a digital impressionist. Your works are breathing, shaping, moving like water. Why do you leave your pictures alive – with pulsing hearts? My favorite things in art are the energy flow and movement. That is why, I like to keep my pieces flowing, leave it alive. I don’t want my characters to be frozen or stuck in a pose. That’s an advantage I have - to leave my work kind of unfinished, with an “opened fantasy” quality. How does an illustrator’s personal style fit in his/her commercial work? I clearly understand that your style needs to be versatile if you are working for commercial art. You need to be able to work for the industry and you have to match industry standards. In theory, as a commercial illustrator, you have to have a free style, but you are not going to be so free in a practical manner. That’s why a lot of commercial illustrators also do fine art on the side, they need to express themselves in a way that they want to express themselves.

FASHION SERIES

custom

the future How do young modern urban artist like yourself evaluate your art-skills, mind, vision? Do you need to watch movies, read books, magazines, walk and observe everything which surrounds you? I do everything except for walking. I do hate walking because I walk very fast, and have no time to observe. I do watch movies, I do like reading. I love fantasy – like “Lord of the rings”, “Harry Potter” – that kind of stuff. Yes, I read books and watch movies – books are obviously better. I used to read books all the time, when I was younger. I could just sit back and read for hours. I’ve read every book on my book-shelves when I was a kid, and I’ve also read a dictionary when all the books were done and I was bored without new ones.

already been taken by hundreds. Why do you want to be like everybody else? It doesn’t make any sense to me. The only thing I won’t do is that I won’t turn into somebody else. I learn from other people, but I won’t be them.

I can clearly see how an athlete can improve their own body but how can a digital artist can improve themself? Actually, when you draw more, it’s not a chance that you draw better. Drawing all the time is good practice but you will still probably have less or more success in a future if not applying proper techniques to your work. For me personally, it works this way: if I need to do better in anatomy, I need to study anatomy. To studying lighting, I look different lighting effects by taking photos under different lights inside, outside and so on. You have to look for the proper things, and apply them in your work. But if you are not doing so, if you are not looking for ways to improve yourself, if you think that repeating over and over again is a source of self-improvement, you won’t get better at that point.

How important is it for you, as an artist, to receive constructive criticism or feedback on your work from the public? It’s nice! I do my art for the sake of other people. If my art can make other people happy, then I am pretty happy too! I like to hear their opinions. If it’s good feedback, it’s awesome; if it’s bad feedback, I will also take it. I try to find out the truth in it and try to make my work better. I am improving myself because of the negative comments also, which is awesome.

Do you have a dream? Does your dream have any edge or border? I do. I just won’t be like everybody else. I see so many followers for already existing things and styles and I can’t be one of them. It’s hard for me to see someone’s style and follow it. Even in fashion, I don’t understand why people take the same path which has

Do you plan to exhibit your art-works in a nearest future? Big exhibition? Yes! But later as I’ve already had two shows recently in Toronto. It was pretty cool, all my friends came to support me, and even people I didn’t expect to come came. Actually, it was a lot of Japanese people, and they usually bring their friends too! The whole exhibition place was packed by my supporters – it was really very good!

Where do you see yourself in 10 to 15 years? Do you have a clear picture of your future? Do I have a clear picture? I am trying to make it clear. I see myself in Japan most likely. I want to have my business and I want to have fun coming from other things. I definitely want to be illustrator, but I want to be doing my own stuff, my own projects, hopefully on Youtube or something similar which will be around at that time. I would like to make videos for people, where I can express myself, my ideas, involve people by making tutorials. I plan to live well and be happy.

FASHION SERIES

a story of best friends illustrator | cj howlett

FASHION SERIES

michael

black kathlyn gardiner

Michael Black is a man of great taste and extraordinary distinction. The quality of his work and the passion of which he carries it out with, without doubt places Michael â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who is out to revolutionize fashion styling â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in a category above that of the average fashion stylist. Fashion Series sat down with this brilliant man to find out how he has managed to sift through so elegantly in the cut throat industry of fashion.

Before Michael Black can begin his hectic day, he must first take a moment to embrace in a cup of hot coffee. For the fresh faced stylist, with an extensive list of clients, relaxing does not last very long. Soon after the much needed morning caffeine, Michael will fly in and out of designer showrooms, email his clients, research the latest fashion, meticulously prepare for upcoming projects, hustle from one meeting to the next, and race the clock just in time to make it to bed by midnight. And just like his coffee, he soaks in every moment of his day. Michael first began styling in Montreal with Club Monaco as a personal shopper. Not afraid to leap upon any opportunity, Michael would seize the moment whether it was through freelance projects or internships. “[I] took every opportunity I could looking at it as practice.” In 2011, he worked closely with the editor of HUSH Magazine, styling photo shoots, assisting with storyboards, and meeting with industry officials among many other tasks. He later continued styling with Pink Tartan in 2012 for their Spring Summer 2013 Runway Show in Toronto Fashion Week, as well as assisted in styling their look book. As Michael tells us about his early years in Vancouver, it becomes obvious why his transition from personal shopper to fashion stylist leapfrogged into working closely with well-known Canadian designers without a helping hand from elder peers or teachers. Experience and perseverance has landed Michael styling jobs for an array of clients. From models to celebrities to designers, Michael has worked with them all. And with each individual client and unique styling job, he understands the challenges that come. “There’s a lot of pressure when dressing a public eye. Sometimes people don’t understand [the outfit],” he states. “A person has to trust the stylist but sometimes they get hesitant.” Of course, styling requires a variety of skills in order to be executed well but Michael, who is a jack-of-all-trades, tackles these issues efficiently. “I can do a lot with very little. Whether it’s a budget, items of clothing, or time.” That’s why he’s been able to take projects as big as creating 30 outfits in one day for a Vancouver-based company. “It comes to you,” says Michael for whom no job is too big or small. Michael has also taught himself to sew which has been very useful with photo shoots. He admits that when he cannot find a particular piece that he has in mind, he simply creates it himself. Afraid of snakeskin he may be, but fearful of the viciously competitive fashion industry, he’s not. Matter of fact, his clients are attracted to his unforgettably charismatic and friendly personality that has helped him stand out from your average stylists.“[I am] different. When I meet people, people remember. I do stand out and I’m not afraid to stand out.” Michael’s unwavering confidence in

his abilities and character has taken him far and allowed him to practice his craft globally. For the Vancouver-born stylist, travel is nothing new. Although currently based in Toronto and Montreal, Michael is constantly found globetrotting, making stops in Vancouver, Barcelona, Montreal, and New York meeting with clients and styling shoots. But if there is one place that resonates with Michael, a place that he would set up base in, it’s New York. Nowhere else on earth would be a more apt playground for a hardworking, show-stopping stylist who lives and breathes fashion every day. Michael has come a long way from his university days when the pre-med student dreamed about being a plastic surgeon. Creativity flows in Michael’s blood whose father is an architect and painter. It is however, his mother who is his biggest source of inspiration. Both of them are a great source of encouragement. “They hold back excitement. They wanted to wait to see where it would go.” When asked about the moment Michael believed he had made it as a fashion stylist, he reminisces about working at last year’s Fashion Week where he struck a friendship with the American supermodel, Charlotte Free. Matter of fact, working amidst some of the most talented fashion industry professionals, Michael has established longlasting friendships with everyone he has worked with. With a friendly personality as Michael’s, this was obviously inevitable. Along his journey as a fashion stylist, Michael has learned many lessons and shares sound advice for those who aspire to be a part of the fashion industry. “You have to be patient, work really hard, stay committed, and do your best. It’s not a cookie cutter industry. You have to work your way up.” And no one would know this better than Michael, who had to grab every unpaid opportunity that struck his way. That’s why he admits, that picking up unpaid jobs and internships can be hard at times as you need to have an income. Regardless, for Michael, there’s no room for regrets as he is a true opportunist. “I take every opportunity and I treat every opportunity with respect.” It is this perseverance and respect that has earned Michael a staggering follow-ship on Twitter and Facebook. One can not help but be attracted to this man of great stature for whom styling is all or nothing. “I’m melding a hobby and work together.” With all his hard work, dedication, and passion thus far he has not only carved his name in the Canadian fashion industry, he can now say, “I made it.” And as he continues his journey, he’s bound to be on top of the list for high profile designers, models and celebrities looking to revamp their style.

FASHION SERIES

shoes POUR LA VICTOIRE

FASHION SERIES

shoes ELIZABETH & JAMES

FASHION SERIES

hat H&M boots DIESEL

FASHION SERIES

our

MODE kavita dadhe

There is always harmony in symmetry, and when one meets Katherine Tran and CJ Hamilton, this effortless fluidity is exuded through their body language, clothes and presence. Cupid struck these 22 year olds at a bar in Toronto, and it would not be too cheesy to say that they are fashionably in love. Mutual ambitions took these GTA students to Ottawa, and that became their nucleus of work and study. Admired for their dressing sense, Katherine and CJ decided to share their ideas on interesting, sleek yet clean (read: respectable) and stylish outfits. The story is how they metamorphosed themselves from being ordinary students to style gurus.

photographer | erin molly fitzpatrick makeup & hair artist| melanie tran [bourgieartists] models & fashion stylists| katherine tran & cj hamilton

FASHION SERIES

the birth OurMode, is CJ and Katherine’s way of showcasing their ever growing wardrobe. Decking themselves out and taking pictures is not all these ambitious students are made for. Set in a pragmatic world, the couple goes to school, works and runs this style blog with amazing amount of dedication. Katherine and CJ narrate how OurMode was born. “The idea of a style blog was on my mind, but when a gentleman from college complimented me on my dressing sense and wanted to take a picture of me for his blog, I was certain to materialize this idea. Katherine dresses super nice and we would love to showcase our personal style and appreciation for different outfits. I brought up the idea of his&her dressing to Katherine and she lapped it up. She added to the design vision: of being minimalistic, clean and nothing too crazy. We conceived the idea in the summer, and in November the blog was up! We were interested in style, social media and interacting with people. Katherine tells us that it is not as smooth sailing as CJ makes it sound, “sometimes it is a bit tense, we do step on each other`s toes, have creative differences, but we want the same thing, so it works out eventually. I think we are lucky share a personal and a professional relationship, right from styling to planning and executing a photo shoot to writing. We break it down and pin our ideas on the board for future posts. ”

the soul The big word on their blog is personal style. CJ likes to dress classic and clean, “though I cannot clearly categorize my style. I like straight cuts, gentlemanly attire, rugged as well. I enjoy urbanizing my outfit – boots, vest, tie and a blazer.” Katherine, on the other hand, shares that she has acquired her style over the years, “I have always gravitated towards soft and feminine, silhouettes, A-line dresses and skirts, longer cuts – everything that spells elegant and feminine, my favourite materials are lace and chiffon, so I on a more softer side.” For every blogger establishing a connection with the surfer is vital, which will either have a reader make your blog his favourite or will simply appreciate and move on. Katherine is acutely aware of this, she asserts, “we keep our photos natural and not so posed; it is important that we appear friendly and approachable and not some style icon that one cannot really identify with. We are having fun with this and we want our readers to know. OurMode started off to make a community for sharing style ideas where we could inspire people to try different looks. Now it is taking a new life of its own.”

FASHION SERIES

jacket CHARLOTTE RUSSE shirt PAPAYA skirt FOREVER 21 shoes SPRING SHOES necklace FOREVER 21

FASHION SERIES

the business When one has a blog that is for the public, it is important to market it, CJ and Katherine populate and draw attention to their blog via OurMode’s Facebook, Twitter, Chictopia and Instagram pages. CJ elaborates, “the key is to get people involved, we want readers to showcase their outfit and inspire us as well. Sometimes it`s not simply about style, we want people to know us, that way we become more approachable. It’s a learning process and that is the best part; we are planning video tutorials and I am in the process of learning how to tie different tie-knots. Katherine summarises, “OurMode`s destination is to become a compete styling resource for a guy or a girl.” What is remarkable is that although the blog is young, they have received much recognition, which is a morale booster. CJ shares that ``we went to a party and for the first time we met someone who recognized us by our blog, we had not met them earlier and yes, I felt kind of famous.” Katherine keeps it modest, “we are most proud of the fact that we are taking something so personal and putting it up there for everyone to see. We are grateful for a positive feedback and it is a great learning process for us as well.” As students, Katherine and CJ relate that the most challenging part of running a blog is “we would like to post more often but juggling school, homework, work and the blog. We just have to get better at time management and as we get better organized at this the turnaround time also reduces. At the moment do not want to monetize it; we want to make it as great as it can be. We did get an opportunity to advertise and promote a local Ottawa teeshirts company called Tie-breakers. They recently started out and we met one of the co-owners at a party and decided to display their tees on the blog. We look at this as an equal advertising opportunity. Katherine and I are not the tee-shirt kind of people and we thought it would be cool to dress up a tee shirt and show how it can be worn in different ways.”

the shopping lesson All shopaholics have selective brands that they visit often for fashion updates; CJ’s favourite place to shop is Banana Republic for their dapper, elegant classy style. He saunters into a Cub Monaco store when he can afford to, and of course, scours thrift stores like Value Village. He explains, “as bloggers we are trying to show that you don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to create an outfit. If you mix and match right, second hand and thrift stores can be your treasure trove. Go there with no real agenda and be willing to dig a bit, find a rough gem, take it to a tailor and it will be as good as new. All I would suggest is that when you walk in, be patient – you may not find an excellent piece on your first visit. Secondly, have a vision – think of what you can do to that piece, so if a jacket looks a little rough but can be fabulous, pick it up. Finally, be willing to experiment, find something that you haven’t worn before. The only risk is (if it turns out to be mistake) you have lost a little money and gained much knowledge.” Katherine also urges people to engage in price wise shopping. She finds altering garments and making something her own is a rewarding experience. She generously shares her shopping tips with us, “when store shopping, look for versatile pieces that will work with different outfits – that way all your stuff gets used. Shop at the end of the season – you will get the same thing for a much better price. Hunt down vintage stores – they have unique accessories, maybe dated and are definitely worth the praise.” CJ lists out his shopping places in both the cities, “in Ottawa Nrml on Redo and the Redo center has some good finds, however I like to shop online from IndoChino and where I can get clothes custom made, whereas in Toronto Queen west is the best place to good finds, I like Lavish and Squalor for shoes.” Katherine’s all-time favourites are La Chateau, Zara and H&M for basics. “I am a jewellery fanatic and I love to collect style and statement pieces that instantly jazz up the outfit. I look at a piece and see how I can use it in few different outfits and I also look for color, I get bright colors that can add finishing touches to my necklines.”

FASHION SERIES

the inspiration The new generation of style bloggers do not follow designers, instead they create their own style. CJ is inspired by any well-dressed person, where he can take away something from their wardrobe. “I often compliment them and sometimes even enquire about the piece that has impressed me.” Jeffery Campbell is Katherine’s inspiration, “I love how edgy he is and it’s more like an admiration than me taking things from his wardrobe and putting them into mine.” Katherine and CJ follow style more than names, garments, patterns or cuts. So what they do is appreciate the ‘look’ and then modify it to make it their own. While CJ peers through Gentleman’s Quarterly, www.askmen.com, Mr. Porter among others, Katherine follows Garry Pepper Vintage blog, Atlantic Pacific blog, Vogue and Instyle magazines. She states that since they moved to Ottawa, “CJ and I have been giving each other ideas and tips on style and we encourage each other to dress out of our comfort zone.” We asked the duo for their favorite anytime outfits, something that every FashionSeries reader can take hints from. CJ likes a ``timeless white dress-shirt that fits right, a dark tapered denim, brown shoes, black bow tie, well-fitting blazer in tweed and for a pop of color it has to be red socks. This outfit is extremely malleable and can work from a morning meeting to a midnight cocktail party.” The key to an outfit, as CJ puts it is, “if it fits right, you will look like a million bucks”. Katherine’s flawless ensemble recommendation is a great fitting A-line skirt with a high waist and a blowy bottom, a pair of nude heels that always makes people look a lot taller, and she would dress it up with a bold necklace that hugs close to the neck, with simple studs adoring the ear. It often happens that when couples live together they start to dress in a similar fashion. It so happens that personalities impress each other with their taste and ethics. “We ended up matching accent colors in one of the blog posts, however, it did not work for us. If anything, what we would mirror would be an overall style – if she dresses Bohemian, I would not want to dress formal. We dress individually and then hope that we look good together!” What we admired the most is that the duo has their head on their shoulders, they are excellent at multi-tasking and they are unafraid to welcome change in their own dressing style. Though they shine in the lover’s personality, they are not overshadowed by it. Katherine and CJ mark their style identities in their togetherness with great ease, and that is no small feat for any working couple.

joe

cruz aaren fitzgerald Joe Cruz, a young freelance artist, illustrator and textile designer born in ‘The Big Smoke’’, grew up with VIP access to some of the world’s most influential fashion labels at his Nan’s garment factory in London, England. His childhood intrigue propelled him into a life of creating work that merges the nexus between fashion and art. After graduating from the Norwich University of Arts in 2010, he launched his professional career exhibiting in local galleries. He released his first collection, entitled Rise & Fall, gaining the attention of design talent agency, YCN. Joe decided to embrace the challenge of collaborating with the agency to create a series of four limited edition illustrated silk pocket squares inspired by all things magical. He approaches fabric like a sculptor to a piece of marble. “[The scarves] are intended to be a lot of fun for your top pocket as well as being an artwork in themselves.” Tucked into your jacket or draped over your shoulders, the wearer becomes something ‘evanescent’, thanks to luxurious silk fabric.

FASHION SERIES

Joe’s brilliant ability to teeter on the captivating edge of this kind of art is a testament to his skill. His style of working with photo juxtaposition and markings was born out of a love for graphic works and his experience of screen printing every day. It is easy to be charmed by Joe’s artwork as it captures the whimsical, delirious nature of dreams and memories. His earliest memory was “riding in the back of a car, sun hitting my face. I never thought about it influencing my work, but it may subconsciously.” Describing his process when creating a piece, he says he “researches a topic, experiments, executes (his) concept through pastels, paints and found imagery.” His work’s playful bright colours, mixed with still images, have a pleasing melancholic quality that acts like musical catharsis, giving moral purification to the viewers. “In a highly saturated commercial world it is hard to get noticed, so I try to have fun with my work and treat my work as a graphic advert to make my point, however subversive this may be.” While working, Joe listens to music which is clearly evident through his “All that Jazz” series. “I was listening to some jazzy hip-hop at the time, and I wasn’t really paying attention to the marks I was making, just enjoying the flow.” He explains that his style of disjointed, stagnant lines and contrasting themes are dictated by his mood. Joe’s work is highly influenced by art and design, “I take a lot of art books out of the library regularly, to keep my style fresh and keep me thinking of different ways to approach the work.” A lover of history, Joe gains wisdom, ideas and inspiration from the past while maintaining an interest in celebrity culture. He defines his style traditionally as “German expressionism mixed with Pop Art”, explaining that “when I was younger I was obsessed with cartoons and graphics from sport culture, this plays into my work today. Also, my family is fairly diverse and this is reflected in my style.” A self-described driven, proud and stubborn artist, Joe has the mild-mannered disposition of an individual ahead of his time. He admits “I am not really into star signs, but I am a Leo and many of the characteristics of that sign reflect my personality.”

After taking a glimpse at his scarves it is clear he has an eye for fashion, but you probably won’t see him hitting up Primark (a UK store similar to Winners or Target) every weekend for the latest trends. Perhaps, as a nod to his Nan, Joe chooses quality garments over quantity. “I love simple clean cut clothes, my favourite item of clothing really depends on the season, on what I need. I am not very frivolous with my fashion, I really think about what I am going to buy, but I think high quality is very important and less is more.” Some people wear iconic t-shirts or mismatched socks to add humor to their outfits but that isn’t Joe’s style. “I have a little gold necklace that I wear everyday which I was given as a baby. It is a great piece of catholic iconography, it means a lot to me even though I am not religious, as it represents my family and a part of where I came from.” A fan of political posters, it is not surprising he cites Fashion house Moschino as his fashion icon because “their original collections were political, provocative and impactful with a playful wit.” Joe has big dreams but modest expectations. “I hope my fashion label can grow and gain wider recognition.” Knowing the hard work and shameless self-promotion today’s social media obsessed world demands, he keeps up with his business through Twitter, Tumblr, and Facebook. Taking branding to the next level, Joe is gearing up to collaborate with Puck Collective on a screen printed magazine. “We have an upcoming show at Pick me Up at Somerset House in London on the theme of a tattoo parlor, so you can have a Joe Cruz tattoo soon.” He understands dreams aren’t accomplished through wishful thinking and is constantly working towards his future goals, releasing a new collection later this year, producing exciting new commissions and finishing up a set of ‘Still Life’ screen prints for an upcoming exhibition in March. Art as a stream of unanswered questions can make the life of an artist challenging and exhausting. Joe advises young artists and designers to “be yourself. I know it sounds cheesy but if you do not love your work and think it is great, no one else will.” He says the best advice he has been given is “never give up.”

FASHION SERIES

paulina

Szumotalska mehreen hussain Since the dawn of time, parents have been dressing their kids in ridiculous sailor suits and dragging them on ski trips to Gstaad. We all have images of our childhood with ugly sweaters, mismatched clothes that have scarred us for life. While sometimes it may be because of hectic mornings or the kids’ fondness for a particular item of clothing, a few faux pas and wardrobe malfunctions are inevitably part of our childhood. However, this may not have been the case for Paulina Szumotalska, who only has her mother to thank for the change in her fashion style at a very young age. At some point, Paulina started caring about what to wear to school or to go out with her friends. “I left worn buskin and low-heeled shoes and started wearing eye-catching clothes.” What did she do with her old clothes? “I burnt them in my fireplace,” she claims, “I didn’t need them any more, as I [had] finally found my style.” And now, as a young adult, the Polish-based fashion stylist Paulina has mastered style that will blow your mind. Inspired by the newest trends, Paulina started watching photo shoots, met with a few photographers and that’s how her life in the world of fashion styling began. “By accident, I started preparing clothes for their photo shoots.” While the career in fashion may be an accident, the

attraction to the world of fashion was instant and irresistible. “What attracts me in fashion is [the] boldness and self-confidence among models in advertising campaigns and during fashion shows.” For Paulina, fashion is simply otherworldly with endless possibilities. “Fashion is an amazing word [from] another planet, everything is possible in it.” The limitlessness quality of this world is something that Paulina finds superb. “There are no boundaries and the possibility of breaking the rules is fascinating.” She does admit, however, that there are those who simply fail to understand this world. Matter of fact, she finds that many people don’t get fashion and the behaviour of people who are interested in it. “They criticize it for its vanity and senselessness, not understanding the people who really love it, who inspire it and gives them joy.” While Paulina’s heart and joy lies in styling clothes for photo shoots, her love for fashion doesn’t conflict with her goal of attaining an education with which she can help change the world in her own way she is currently studying in the field of administration and management.. “My biggest dream is to work in an agency dealing with health insurance.” Where the dreams of fashion styling and philanthropic endeavours meet, the self-described contradicting artist herself isn’t sure. What she does know is that, she’s inspired by both worlds.

Inspiration strikes this young talent in every aspect of her life, “I’m inspired by practically everything - surroundings, my city, window displays.” While her focus on choosing clothes for a shoot is specifically on what the photographer wants, she manages to incorporate a common vision and style into each look. A lot of times, Paulina says this vision includes looking at photos from the best fashion shows in a season for inspiration. Using this as the main base for ideas, Paulina then goes on a hunt for local designers that will help her bring the vision to life. “I look for such clothing among Polish designers, showrooms and shops and I rent them.” And when it comes to adding something characteristic, Paulina always relies on eye-catching, bold jewelry. While designers are there to make beautiful clothes, Paulina’s purpose, as a stylist, is quite important in bringing them to life. “It’s not hard to have lots of fashionable and beautiful clothes - it’s hard to make a perfect style with them.” That’s where a stylist is needed. “There won’t be an advertising campaign without this person, same with a photo shoot, fashion show or making celebrities look good.” With every high profile celebrity having a stylist dressing them up for daily events, shows, videos, etc., we all know how true this is. And of course, editorials and photo shoots will be incomplete if a person, who has an eye for fashion, is not present. “In the West, it is the stylist, not the photographer, who has the last word when it comes to preparing an editorial.” It is as this show-running fashion stylist Paulina has managed to master her trade. With a plethora of fashion shoots, runway shows and fashion events under her belt, Paulina is a woman of multitude abilities. “I love being a time-poor producer dealing with many things!” With a wide spectrum of styling abilities ranging from royal elegance to modern minimalism and futurism, one can appreciate the unique eye Paulina has for fashion. Idolizing former model and Creative Director of American Vogue, Grace Coddington, Paulina believes that “stylist should not be reclusive, [he/ she] needs to get inspiration for everything and use it in [their] work.” When it comes to something characteristic, Paulina always relies on eye-catching, bold jewelry. As for her own personal styling, she believes there’s no prescription for it. “Private styling should show personality.” This, however, doesn’t mean you copy the style of your idol or favourite celebrity according to Paulina. “Without any doubts, I would not feel comfortable wearing elegant and classy clothing that Anna

Wintour wears, who after all is a queen of style.” Despite the fact that Paulina, herself, doesn’t wear street style clothing, she absolutely adores Rihanna. “She looks amazing, not only at big events and in music videos, but during everyday situations, when the paparazzi is chasing her after leaving a restaurant.” The admiration for Rihanna’s ability to shine through, not only via her music, but also her unique personal style is deeply embedded in Paulina. “She also showed me that tattoos don’t take [away from] femininity and I’m planning on getting one.” The same individualism Paulina admires and exuberates, is what she admits Poland shies away from. “In Poland, there are not many people who are bold enough to wear what they want; to wear something that will allow them to stand out from the crowd.” However, noting the stride Polish fashion has taken over the years, Paulina is proud to be part of it. “Luckily, we are becoming a country more modern and fashion is becoming a topic popular in mass media, thanks to which everyone can learn a lot about trends and Polish streets can become more expressive.” As fashion is becoming increasingly popular, so is the desire for young Polish minds to be a part of it. With the flux of emerging fashion stylists in Poland, Paulina says it’s hard to get to the biggest magazines and agencies. There’s also a hint of arrogance that Paulina has noticed amongst many of the young designers in Poland. “[They] think too much about themselves, which is totally inadequate to their work and accomplishments.” While she admits she’s not referring to everyone, there are a few, who, she believes, are “really high and might” and “not willing to cooperate”. “What is more [is that] their clothing is not of high quality and the pricing is high.” However, these challenges don’t falter Paulina’s determination and future goals. “Less ambitious will drop away quickly, but I’ll always do my best.” It is this determination that Paulina believes will help her collaborate with some of Poland’s best designers such as Agnieszka Maciejak, Gosia Baczyńska and, her most loved designer, ZUO Corp. “I believe I will be able to rent their clothes on a daily basis for my photo shoots and projects,” she hopes. In terms of North American designers, Paulina is simply in love with Alexander McQueen. She has been quite a fan of the boldness designers, Lee Alexander McQueen, Balanciaga, Givenchy and Mary Katranzou have. After all, it is the same boldness you can see exhibited in the eye-catching work she, herself, produces.

dress MARITA BOBKO

dress DOMINIKA GEMBIAK jewelry iloko.pl

FASHION SERIES

dress MARITA BOBKO scarf U+

FASHION SERIES

dress DOMINIKA GEMBIAK jewelry iloko.pl

dress MARITA BOBKO

FASHION SERIES

clothes MARITA BOBKO jewelry iloko.pl

FASHION SERIES

jewelry iloko.pl

coat U+ skirt DOMINIKA GEMBIAK

FASHION SERIES

jennifer

toole kavita dadhe

Born in the very southern town of Plantation in Florida; fashion photographer Jennifer Toole grew up in Toronto. She started off as a writer and soon a freak accident made her realise that she was a natural when it came to the camera. FLASH OF A GENIUS I offered, “Well, I could shoot that for you.” It must be understood that at this point, back in 2008, I had no photography experience to speak of. But, for some reason Michalina said, “You know what? I would trust you to do that for me.” So, we made a date and did the shoot with my old point and shoot camera. And the results were breathtaking. It is, to this day, one of my favorite shoots. I entered the series into two photography competitions and won them both. The prizes both included a gallery show where I sold a few large prints.”

I offered, “Well, I could shoot that for you.” It must be understood that at this point, back in 2008, I had no photography experience to speak of. But, for some reason Michalina said, “You know what? I would trust you to do that for me.” So, we made a date and did the shoot with my old point and shoot camera. And the results were breathtaking. It is, to this day, one of my favorite shoots. I entered the series into two photography competitions and won them both. The prizes both included a gallery show where I sold a few large prints.”

THE STUDENT When true astounding success knocks on your door, it is impossible to ignore the signs. So did not Jennifer, she decided to put writing on the back burner and all her efforts into learning the craft of photography. Jennifer had a head-start garnering knowledge in the business. “I entered into the fashion world as a model at age sixteen so there was a particular fashion sense ingrained in me from the offset.” She started shooting professionally in 2008 and excels on all photographic fronts. And, it is to be noted that she is self-taught. However, it takes more than a flash of genius and training to make your mark in an already competitive fashion industry. Amongst other photographers that inspired her, a name rings the gong; she is smitten by the legendary Helmut Newton just as we are. She says she aims to live as voyeuristic a life as he did. Her mentors are not less famous either. She has categorized her photographer based on the type of photography they produce - for nightlife shooting, Tobias Visualbass; for lifestyle, David Gillespie; and for wedding photography, David Jeng. “This holy trinity passionately guided me from amateur to pro through their combined teachings.” Jennifer is an ideal student who never stops learning; she draws inspiration from her young contemporaries. “I have had photographer Paola Kudacki, artist Kesh and designer Tala Kamea on my radar as of late. They are all very inspiring young women doing great work.”

ON THE JOB Though Fashion photography is what she is most passionate about, her boudoir photography business comes in at a close second. When we talk, she speaks profoundly about the fashion profession that most look upon as frivolous. She says “fashion photography is the perfect intersection of advertising and art.” When you look at her work with the depth of an artist, you know that she is bang-on and what the phrase ‘picture is worth a thousand words’ actually means. It has always intrigued us to find out what kinds of clothes inspire a fashion photographer? “For me it is the lines, colors, fit and fall of divinely designed garments easily and consistently inspire my photographic

compositions.” When asked about her dreams, the models and designers that she would be excited to work with, the glint in her eyes gives a peek into her ambitious nature. “It would be a dream come true to shoot Malgosia Bela, Kristen McMenamy and Natalia Vodianova as The Three Fates in vintage Alexander McQueen, styled by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele.”

THE CRAFT It is not only the people around that motivate and impress upon an artistic mind. There are other forces like the society one deals with, the causes one fights for; and for Jennifer, it is the city she lives in which she personifies in an amusing way, “Toronto is a small pond full of big, hungry fashion photographer fish. We only have a handful of magazines produced within Toronto so the competition is quite fierce. You simply have to be the best to make a living, which is motivating in a survival of the fittest kind of way.” Every photographer has a certain flair; their talent is either innate or gets stamped upon by repetitive usage of a specific element. For Jennifer this element is sex. It adds to the glamorous images that she creates. In her images, her models appear confident and express themselves with an uncanny ease. When asked, she chuckles, “the trick to keep the champagne flowing with a dash charm, of course!” Jennifer is interested in creating visual ideals and working as a fashion photographer allows her to play with them every single day. What she loves the most is capturing the soul of her subjects and freezing it into photographs. Once that is achieved (a nearly impossible task), then everything flows around it and the image completes itself. When in school, you learn to put everything in a single-file, but as a self-taught photographer, you have to decide what is more important to you – the technique of the art or is it the vision of the final shot? Jennifer replies candidly, “I am always paying more attention to my technique, but in the grand scheme of things I believe vision holds more weight.”

arinna rises photographer | jennifer toole makeup & hair artist | bronwen weiderick model | kadri hansen fashion stylist | megan ann wilson

headband TOPSHOP dress PHOTOGRAPHER’s OWN

FASHION SERIES

shirt [PHILLIP LIM] I MISS YOU VINTAGE headband TOPSHOP sunglasses PHOTOGRAPHER’s GRANDMOTHER’s

FASHION SERIES

long sheer dress I MISS YOU VINTAGE headband TOPSHOP rings TOPSHOP

FASHION SERIES

headband TOPSHOP black lace body suit I MISS YOU VINTAGE rings TOPSHOP & SIMON skirt [ISSEY MIYAKE] I MISS YOU VINTAGE

FASHION SERIES

grey mesh tee [DKNY] I MISS YOU VINTAGE underwear LA PERLA thigh high stockings AMERICAN APPAREL headband TOPSHOP

FASHION SERIES

headband TOPSHOP dress PHOTOGRAPHER’s OWN spike bracelet COCOA JEWELRY [LOTUS LEAF STYLE]

THE PROCESS Jennifer walks us through some of her thought processes as she sets up for a photo session. “I light for mood so if we’re shooting a kitschy Spring story with lots of color that needs to pop I’ll light it much differently than I would an all-black minimal line for Fall. Versatility is the key,” she explains. All photographers divide their time between the studio and the digital darkroom. For Jennifer, the importance is towards getting the perfect image during the photo session. “I always aim to get the shot in camera. Retouching is an afterthought. My workflow in the digital darkroom is really fast.” Ever wondered what a photographer’s loves best about the whole photographic process? We did too. Jennifer confides, “I love, love, love watching my subjects’ self-confidence levels rise as they look at themselves through my lens. I dislike batch editing bulk jobs. It cheapens the work.”

THE APPARATUS We often ask, in vain usually, whether photographers today use film roles in any manner. We were pleasantly surprised to know that Jennifer does! She shoots “with 35mm and 120mm film a lot. There is a certain quality that comes across when shooting with film that is simply not replicable in pixels and I often prefer it.”Jennifer confesses that she “has an unhealthy obsession with Zeiss lenses and it is a completely personal preference!”

THE KNACK Jennifer’s team of trusted artists includes, “Amber Fairlie from The Manor Salon on hair, Bronwen Weiderick on make-up and Megan Ann Wilson styling. They are all hard workers with endless creativity and open minds who know how to have fun.” Photographing is multi-tasking and Jennifer seconds that, “A good fashion photographer has to have expertise in everything from architecture to people skills. It is probably one of the most multi-faceted occupations around. What keeps me in it is the near certainty that I will never stop learning this craft i.e. there will always be room to improve, and that excites me.

Ceilings are boring.” The biggest risk involved is usually of failure and the business of photography is not very kind to your follies. So when Jennifer took up photography, she risked everything. “I only trusted my talent and cut all external ties to focus 100% on taking photos for a living. And I feel blessed every day to be working at what I love. That’s the secret to life!” She advises the same to the newbies, “Be honest and give it everything you’ve got!” The only grievance she has is about financial management, “I would say the biggest difficulty is getting paid in a timely fashion. If you figure it out, let me know.”

EXCITEMENT AHEAD The latest news that has her on her toes is, “I am waiting on word from The L’Oreal Colour Trophy Competition. If we win we get to go work with the Balenciaga team in Paris. Fingers crossed! The Pin-up Calendar I’m shooting for Kingpin Vintage has been quite a hit thus far and I’m looking forward to shooting the remaining months. It’s going to be very naughty. There is something huge in the oven concerning a certain fetish fashion shop, but its top secret so stay tuned! Get to know Jennifer a little more: Check out my website www.jennifertoole.com or my blog dailytoole. wordpress.com. Follow her on Instagram @jentoole.

canan

hosseyni mehreen hussain There’s an intensity about Toronto-based photographer Canan Hosseyni’s photographs that will whisk you away at first glance. Her style blends subtle high fashion concepts with striking artistic undertones. One has only to catch sight of Canan’s photography to realize her deep passion for the art form she fell in love with as a teenager.

It was in high school, where the darkroom of a blackand-white photography class seduced Canan and the art engulfed her mind with endless possibilities. “The process of developing film and the dark room was my way to express what was, until then, a dormant creative side.” The class unleashed Canan’s creative beast, making it a constant in her life. However, it wasn’t until 2008 that she decided to pursue photography as a full time career. “Despite the multitude of challenges I have faced over the years, I have been able to grow as a result of my experiences both as a photographer and as an individual.” Canan’s mixed Iranian-Turkish background and Canadian upbringing, by her own admission, both influences her work and, no doubt, plays a factor in her having a unique perspective and understanding of the world of fashion. While Canan delves in all types of photography – wedding, portrait, etc. – what will leave you mesmerized is the eye she has for fashion and beauty. She has an obsession with capturing the essence of what makes us human. “Fashion is a way that people can express themselves and fashion photography, for me, is a way to capture the emotion people feel within that expression.” It is this obsession that has led Canan’s astonishing editorials to be published in fashion photography magazines such as GLASSbook, W25, BLINK, CHAOS, and TEASER. Canan finds inspiration in any and every thing in some way. However, when pressed to name a specific influence, she shares her admiration for the renowned photographer Annie Leibovit and her mesmerizing work. “There is a rawness to her images which I connect with.” As for herself, she doesn’t believe she has a set photographic style. “I think that each concept requires a customized strategy and a level of adaptability in order to execute it.” For her, any concept can be expressed in a particular style. “But I would rather the concept dictate to me a process in which I can grow within.” She finds that boundaries of style only limit what is possible within a shoot. “I like every shoot to be a collaborative process of everyone involved.” Why? “Each member of the team is an expert in their respective field and their perspective on the concept has merit on how the shoot will be executed,” she explains. “As a photographer, my responsibility is to merge the multiple facets in an organic way.” And we must admit, Canan does this beautifully with a creative flair. While many photographers who, by fo-

cusing on the technical aspects of photography, lose their creative side, Canan is not one of them. Matter of fact, this talented photographer doesn’t like to concentrate very much on the technicality of her art when photographing. “There have been many times that unconventional approaches have yielded more interesting results.” Not concentrating on the technicalities helps her, she says, experiment and try new things. With natural light as her first preference, her main focus in each shoot is to capture emotion in the overall image. When the shoot is over and the models have gone, Canan continues to explore her unique vision in the digital realm. And as a fashion photographer, Canan has mastered the art of manipulation. “The process after the shoot is the most difficult and time-consuming part.” Sorting through and finalizing images is a process where Canan consults with her team and other colleagues. “This is the growing process for me as a photographer.” With the feedback, Canan continues to perfect her concepts in the digital editing arena—a step equally as important in the final evolution of her ideas as the shoot itself. “Being able to get constructive criticisim and reflecting on the outcome of the shoot leads to generating new ideas and fine-tuning technical skills.” While Canan’s ability to flow through her work process may be easy, she does admit that sifting through Toronto’s fashion industry, which as a whole is very competitive, may be challenging. “In the beginning it was a challenge getting advice from fellow photographers; everyone is very protective of their work.” With experience, however, she has realized that her walk in life as a photographer differs from that of another photographer. “Sometimes it’s better to figure out what works best for you given that everyone faces different challenges and deals with them in their own way.” And what has been working best for her? “Not work[ing] towards receiving external acknowledgement.” It has been the best advice Canan has received as a photographer, and may be the most rewarding one. “Doing something you truly enjoy and being able to share that with an audience is really the best reward for me as a photographer.” And with her unquestionable drive, prevailing passion and eye for fashion and beauty, there’s no way her work can go unnoticed in the fashion world.

strata photographer | canan hosseyni hair & makeup artist | jennifer gemakas [behind the image] model | samantha k [elite]

FASHION SERIES

makoto

nakai jemicah colleen

Meet Makoto Nakai, a Japanese makeup artist based in New York, who, inspired by passion and beauty, is making a name in the world of fashion with great professionalism. While Makoto himself doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fully understand where this intense passion for his trade comes from, his love for his career is seen in the intricacy and delicateness of his work. Attending a makeup school in Japan, Makoto developed his makeup artistry skills while falling further in love with the art. After being fully trained and accredited, Makoto developed a natural flair for creativity, beauty and for delivering fantastic results with great dignity. As a makeup artist assistant for just a bit over a year, Makoto learned the various techniques that would soon lead him to leave his own mark in his own way.

Makoto Nakai has leveraged his prodigious skills set in makeup artistry and provided these services to celebrities, and production clients across fashion and advertising. His experience stems from his work with L’Oreal and KOSE in Japan, and working in a creator office in New York. With 10 years of experience in the industry, Makoto’s abilities easily shine through in the flawlessness of his work which can be seen on his website at www.makoto777.com. Working for the likes of magazines such as NYLON Korea, VICE, UNVOGUE, GIRLZ (Netherlands), and KISMET (UK), Makoto has had much experience with high clientele. He’s even got a chance to work with a lot of celebrities. Makoto has done the makeup for BOA, Nicole Hilton, Natalie Martinez, and Wead. However, for Makoto, the most exciting experience throughout his career was getting the chance to work with Paris Hilton. Working with top-notch brands, high profile celebrities and world renowned magazines in Japan, the United States and internationally has enabled Makoto to acquire a specific taste for beauty. Noticing the differences from Japan and the so-called conservative fashion industry of the United States, he states that “the definition of the beauty in the U.S. is sexy and elegant. Since a definition is lovely in Japan, this point differs from the U.S.” And it is this U.S.-based ‘sexy and elegant’ definition of beauty that resonates with him as professional makeup artist. That’s why he just cannot resist the youthful American actress, Chloë Grace Moretz. She is after all, his ideal beauty. And the beauty about Makoto’s work is that, while his definition may be adoptive of the country he now calls home, his inspirations are international. He says he manages to keep up with and learn international makeup trends and styles regardless of where he lives. Matter of fact, his appreciation for the art of photography and fashion styling is constantly split between New York and his birth country, Japan. Naming his favourite photographers and stylists, Makoto includes the Tokyo-based photographers Juan Carrera and Tomokazu Hamada; NY-based photographer Ryan Yoon; and Japanese stylists YOSHIKI and Takashi Mizukuchi. These are the people whose work Makoto admires deeply and looks up to for inspiration. His highest admiration though, he admits, is placed on the British makeup artist, Kabuki. Such inspiration has also lead to Makoto’s makeup style of presenting a more natural look on his models.

A man of simplicity, Makoto believes achieving a makeup look does not mean a woman adopts the latest beauty trends. Rather, he believes in adopting a look that actually enhances a woman’s natural beauty and looks good on her. While high-end brands like Dior, PRADA, MAC & KETT are Makoto’s favourite to use on clients, he believes every woman should carry around lip balm in her purse—brand name or not. As for his own makeup bag, he does not leave for a shoot without an airbrush which he finds to be one of the most important tools at a photoshoot. Short and simple answers are what Makoto gives when asked a question, but when it comes to his makeup there is much more of a story to tell. In order to start this preparation before transforming his clientele into a human canvas, Makoto always pre-plans. “I draw a picture on the paper and show the photo which is [close] to an image.” His spontaneity means that there’s not much room for a specific regime when it comes to decorating the faces of his clients with the latest colours and styles. Rather, Makoto thoroughly enjoys where his hands and imagination take him. “When I do makeup on a model, I often [do it] without thinking about anything. I just go with the flow!” Even in his spontaneity, there is indisputably a degree of evil genius at work. While his career path may seem glamorous and exciting, Makoto sets the record straight: “The biggest misunderstanding people [have about the fashion industry] is that this industry is [a] gorgeous world! Actually, it is not [a] gorgeous world!” Matter of fact, working as a makeup artist can be tiring with long days on set. Of course, if you have passion for what you do, work seems like play. And for Makoto, this is exactly the case. He says photo shoots never feel tiring because he’s doing exactly what he loves. “There is not [that] sense that [it is] tiring because I do a favorite thing.” Rather, for him, it’s all about feeling that sense of fulfillment. And while Makoto is keen on his art and finds the creative endeavour rewarding, if you don’t see him with brushes in his hand, he says you’ll find him enjoying another thing he’s crazy about: baseball. Makoto has everything that makes clients drool: precocious talent far beyond his years, an expressiveness that can convey both wonder and worldliness, and a passion for his art that translates into every face he transforms. With a talent as such, there’s no doubt that the demand for him in the fashion industry, and amidst celebrity clients, grows exponentially.

ALEX jacket, shirt & pants BESS/THE WALL SHOROOM belt A|X necklace [skull+crown] JUSTIN DAVIS/JACK OF ALL TRADES shoes GEORGE COX/CANDY GENI coat, shirt & shorts BESS/THE WALL SHOWROOM socks DISS BORN/CANDY shoes NEIL BARRETT

FASHION SERIES

leather racing jacket 99%IS/CANDY

leather overalls 99%IS/CANDY

FASHION SERIES

coat, shirts & shorts BESS/THE WALL SHOWROOM

jacket, shirt & pants BESS/THE WALL SHOROOM belt A|X shoes GEORGE COX/CANDY

FASHION SERIES

ALEX jacket BESS/THE WALL SHOROOM necklace [skull+crown] JUSTIN DAVIS/JACK OF ALL TRADES GENI coat & shirt BESS/THE WALL SHOWROOM

FASHION SERIES