fashionSERIES
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fashionSERIES Fashion Series is an electronic publication entirely dedicated to discovering, showcasing and promoting Toronto’s emerging and established fashion industry professionals. Our mission is to provide a distinct platform for fashion photographers, models, designers, wardrobe stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, bloggers, and illustrators through visual series and exclusive interviews. Fashion Series will highlight these rising stars by encouraging and unveiling their talents in the form of a cohesive photographic collection. In addition, via exclusive interviews, we aim to yield some background information about the showcased artist, the artist’s intention, technical specification, an indication of their work’s historical and theoretical context - and, at the same time, provide our readers with an invaluable insight into the world of fashion visualization.
CONTACT GENERAL INQUIRIES: info@fashionseries.ca SUBMISSIONS submissions@fashionseries.ca WEBSITE www.fashionseries.ca TWITTER: www.twitter.com/fashion_series FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/thefashionseries
FASHION is the voice of Toronto’s emerging fashion industry professionals. Available 24 hours online via www.fashionseries. SERIES ISSN 1929-4786 ca. Entire contents are © by FASHION SERIES ARCHIVE unless otherwise stated.
THE TEAM CEO/EDITOR IN CHIEF Mehreen Hussain EDITOR Meagan Enciso GUEST EDITOR Dylan Dias Kate Koler WRITERS Brian Henderson Kathlyn Rose Pema Tsering Sarah St. Jules STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Lilly La Vue Polk Liang ASSISTANT TO EDITOR IN CHIEF Aiysha Khan Fatima Idris Nadia Khan
COVER IMAGE CREDITS Stephen M. Loban, featured photographer Kelly Armstrong, makeup artist Robert Novello [Studio Toronto], hair stylist Krystal Reeve [Next Canada], model Luis Zulayhka, wardrobe styling & image direction
onur serter
dylandias
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evin cheng
vitaly design
dylan uscher
adrian soto
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the CODE OF ONur Pho t o gra p h y / l i l l y l a v u e Mak eup & hai r s tyl i ng / s a m i r a s i d d i q i Mo del / o n ur s e r t e r - o r a ng e m od e l s cl o t hi n g / r a j i a u j l a & Za r a w ardro b e styl i ng / m e h r e e n h u s s a i n aut ho r / s a r a h s t . j u l e s
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Beauty and brains are a deadly combination, and model Onur Serter has both in spades. Currently studying economics and business in university, he goes against every stereotype put onto models. However, modeling wasn’t his first career choice. “I always had thoughts of being a model, but I had other careers that interested me more when I was younger. Being a soccer player and an actor were my biggest dreams.” It was actually Onur’s interest in acting that led him to being a model. When he came to Canada five years ago from Turkey to pursue acting, he started to become interested in modeling. “I had a photo shoot for my acting portfolio and the photographer believed I would make a good model.” Soon after, he got his first contract with Orange Model Management.
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Onur’s first big break was when he worked for Canadian designer ZENT during FAT 2012. Since then, he has done two other fashion shows, but still credits FAT as his biggest success. “Meeting with so many people and appearing in such a big show was a great feeling.” Onur’s dream modeling jobs are even bigger. He would love to appear in a campaign for a big fashion brand such as Calvin Klein, Armani or Dolce&Gabbana. Being a model isn’t as glamorous as it is portrayed. “People believed I was making lots of money when I started modeling.” However, the competition in the industry is immense. Onur had no idea that the struggle would be so tough. He thought that having good luck might be enough to be successful, but he soon learned that instead, it would take a lot of very hard work.
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It also takes a lot of work to maintain the physique required to be a model. Onur works out and plays sports in his free time and has a strict diet that he follows daily. He has oatmeal for breakfast, combined with nuts and dried apricots. Chicken and whole wheat bread make up his lunch and a salad becomes his supper. All of this is supplemented with a lot of veggies. However, Onur says sometimes he does cheat on his diet. “I try my best to follow my diet, even though there are some periods of time where I completely forget about it. However, after a while I get back on my tight regime.” Models need to look their best, especially when they are going to a photo shoot or when they are attending a go-see. Onur’s three ‘must haves’ for these occasions are hair gel, water and contacts. He takes his overall inspiration for the way he dresses from fashion itself. “Fashion inspires me as a model. I love fashion and keeping up with fashion builds up my interest in modeling.” He also feels that beauty is anything that has aesthetic appeal, so it can be found anywhere and can be a constant inspiration.
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Onur’s first big break was when he worked for Canadian designer ZENT during FAT 2012. Since then, he has done two other fashion shows, but still credits FAT as his biggest success. “Meeting with so many people and appearing in such a big show was a great feeling.” Onur’s dream modeling jobs are even bigger. He would love to appear in a campaign for a big fashion brand such as Calvin Klein, Armani or Dolce&Gabbana. Being a model isn’t as glamorous as it is portrayed. “People believed I was making lots of money when I started modeling.” However, the competition in the industry is immense. Onur had no idea that the struggle would be so tough. He thought that having good luck might be enough to be successful, but he soon learned that instead, it would take a lot of very hard work.
When working in the fashion industry, it’s always important to have someone that you look up to. Onur’s role model is Sebastian Sauve because of how amazing his face is and how interesting his poses are. Taking inspiration from his role model, Onur brands himself through his hair style. He has one very versatile cut that can be transformed into many looks. As a now experienced model, he does have invaluable advice to give to those starting out in the industry. Onur suggests that you need to be constantly driven; nothing comes easy to someone just because they have a great look. He gives this advice from his own personal experience. “Determination and hard work has helped me a lot with my success. It is really hard to start modeling and not give up, there is immense competition and you can’t always rely on your agency.” He believes that when you have a passion, you just need to work through all the struggles that you may encounter. Coming up next for Onur is completing university and working on more modeling jobs. In five years, he is hoping that he will have achieved his dream and will be appearing in a campaign for a big fashion brand. His overall goal is to be successful and to be his best. To keep in touch with Onur, you can always follow him on Twitter or on his Facebook page. His final tip for up and coming young talent is, “When being a model, it’s important to be relaxed and easy going. Know how to sell yourself and always believe in yourself.”
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DYLANDIAS
If you haven’t heard of hairstylist and blogger Dylan Dias yet, don’t worry, you will! He is the blogger extraordinaire bringing you Toronto’s hottest fashion news; the visionary designer of sensational silk scarves; and most importantly, he’s the ultra stylish gent that makes iconic and memorable hair many a dame would kill for. We at Fashion Series, are just totally enamoured of this man, his talent, his vibrant personality and the passion he exuberates! Read the exclusive heartfelt & in-depth Dylan Dias interview to find out exactly why!
BACKGROUND What brought you into the world of hair- spiration for me and was the driving force of my “emancipation”, so-to-speak, from the banality of where I was dressing? I started doing hair on a complete whim. I was coming out of a disconnected life – living very far from the city, pursuing University studies in a school that bored me; with an insatiable desire to reconnect with the Arts I left behind. After dropping out of University I intended to dive into Visual Art; and originally meant to pursue painting and graphic design. I fell into hair when I discovered a course at a Toronto college and realized that it might be what I’ve been looking for. It was the biggest wake-up call of my life, to say the very least.
What is your reason for choosing this profession?
Hair is a fascinating medium. It involves every artistic principle – from balance, to form, to shape, to line, to colour and texture – in organic, living matter. Learning hair has been the greatest challenge and continuing accomplishment of my life; the artistic potential alone is reason enough. But it is an incredibly rewarding profession; helping people feel amazing about themselves.
headed before Hairstyling. It is colourful, vibrant, and pulsates with a constant energy of re-creation and reimagination, because the city is changing so rapidly. I always wanted to be a part of its creative fabric; hair was just my window.
What is your educational background and work experience in the hair styling industry? I went to Marca College for roughly 2 years, graduating with honours. During my time at Marca I began working in random salons here and there, getting a taste of the market, and immediately began producing my own Editorial Collections following my graduation. Since then I’ve become a Colourist under Davines, a Senior Elite Salon Member through Eufora, and have worked behind-thechair for roughly 5 years as a Salon Professional. I’ve only recently began expanding into fashion and pursuing a career as a Freelance Session Stylist.
Where do you currently work as a hairstylHow did growing up in Toronto affect your ist? I currently work out of a Full-Service Salon in North Tocareer choice? Toronto is a fantastic city. It is a constant source of in-
ronto called Manestream Salon Inc.
INSPIRATION What inspires your work?
What makes you intensely happy about As a creative person by nature I tend to find inspiration the world of fashion and beauty? in almost anything. The creative process is extremely intuitive for me. In the past I’ve been inspired to create certain images for my Collections from a song. I find the same influence in film and visual art, fashion and design. But this isn’t surprising to me; all art is interconnected, all avenues of design are related. One influences another and so on. I find people incredibly inspiring as well – human stories have always struck a chord with me.
Passion. There are people in this industry that are some of the most passionate, devoted artists I’ve ever had the privilege to see, meet, and even work with on occasion. The thing that sets artists apart from others is the drive to create. Fashion is full of people who want nothing more than to create; it’s magical really.
I love fashion’s ability to be transient but eternal. Fashion lives in a moment, but it is never complete. Re-interpretations and catharsis are key to its survival, but it’s amazing, because it’s brilliant in the moment it exists in, however fleeting. Hair is the same. It’s movement, it’s living, it’s never the same tomorrow that it is today. It’s living composition, like the idea of fashion as a whole.
neously many things, many energies, at once – which is why it is so significant culturally. The creative sector of our city needs more support, especially in local fashion design, but I find myself incredibly motivated to help take it there by participating in and supporting the local market.
How does living and working in Toronto inspire you? How does it as a city motiWhat about fashion attracts you as a hair- vate your work? stylist? Toronto is a city of evolution. It happens to be simulta-
What is your vision of beauty?
My ideal of beauty changes as I age and grow in the industry. Like I said, fashion and beauty are never complete. I like the idea of adaptation. Right now, to me, beauty is androgyny. Fashion is blurring the lines of gender, and I love the power of an androgynous look and the message it carries with it.
Any celebrities that inspire your work?
Perhaps not all in the celebrity factor, but there are many famous artists, past and present, that I draw a lot of vision from: Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Warhol, Alex Grey, Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, Sassoon, McQueen, Vreeland – just to name very few.
PERSONAL STYLE Please describe your signature hairstyle?
My signature look would probably be something short, sharp, and chic. Like I said before, I love androgyny in fashion, and I love giving women short cuts that involve shaved elements, disconnection, and bold colour in a subtle way. I always love hair cuts that have an identity behind them; something iconic and memorable. Twiggy, Emma Watson, and Rihanna come to mind.
Would you say that you have a niche, or is there anything particular that your clients or industry peers would say you’re known for? My peers would definitely say colour. I am at my best when I’m creating a new and interesting colour placement on someone seeking change. I love customizing my shades for my clients; so that one person’s red will never be the same as another’s. And I love experimenting with shades and tonal ranges to create unique reflections.
What kind of hairstyle are you yearning to do on somebody? I am all about adaptability. I tend to yearn to do something new and interesting if it’s new and interesting in the market. Right now, I’d love to do more undercuts on women. They’ve been trendy for a couple of seasons, but they’ve recently started gaining popularity in the street market. I’d love to see more women experiment with the idea of adding shaved elements to their everyday hair style; it can be unique and feminine when tailored properly.
Can you name a personality whom, sometime, you would enjoy helping develop a new look? Is everyone familiar with Ann Rohmer from CP24? She is a doll but I’d love to change her hair. She’s had a similar style for quite a few years, and I’d love take her in a bolder direction. I always love watching her, she is very well spoken. I think she would look fantastic with something more fashion-forward.
PROCESS What is the most important thing for you when styling someone’s hair? Fluidity, but that’s just my taste. I think hair is organic so it should move. I love seeing hair move on someone – a proper style, that can be worn daily, should be fluid, soft, and seemingly effortless.
What brand of professional hair styling aids would we find at your work station? I only work with Eufora International. Eufora is an almost totally organic line of cleansers, conditioners, and styling aids that are intermixable and customizable. I like to use them because they are extremely gentle and allow me to create a variety of styles without ever putting too much into the hair. I treat them like I would treat a painter’s palette.
Which tinges and coloring are most frequently asked for? Do specific age groups ask for specific colors? Popular colours range by season. Trendy colours al-
ways make an appearance, but all types of blondes, from brown sugars to platinum, are popular in summer. Once the colder months come around we always see a return to reds, purples, warm caramels, and coppers. I am seeing a lot more adventurous mature women come through my chair these days; experimenting with bold colours and interesting hues. I think age is becoming less and less significant when it comes to taking chances with fashion and personal style, and all I can say is thank goodness! At the end of the day, true style is a reflection of who you are.
How do you stay current on new trends?
Pop-culture and fashion are a part of my life, so it isn’t difficult for me to see the evolution of trends. I run my own fashion blog and I am active within the industry. I see new Collections every season and I can see the market change rapidly – whether through clothing, interior design, music, or hair – being involved keeps me fresh. My strongest outlets are magazines and art & design blogs. The internet is the best tool to see what’s new and what’s interesting.
HAIR TIPS What is the golden rule for maintaining beautiful hair?
Moisture control. Most basic hair issues that women have these days stem from a lack of moisture – whether it’s frizz, dried ends, or an uncontrollable poof. Learning how to keep moisture within the cortex of the hair can mean more reflective colour, a smoother, silk-to-touch texture, and easier day-to-day wearability.
What should women never do to their hair?
Colour it at home. I’ll have a lot of friends teasing me for this because I was a huge DIY hair dyer before I pursued Hairstyling as a profession! But in truth, although I love the idea, unless you’ve actually studied the chemistry behind the colour, there is a chance you will unknowingly do a serious disservice to your hair with just colour alone. Many of these consumer brand, at-home dyes are loaded with harsh progressive-pigments that drown the
hair in artificial melanin. It makes the hair brittle, inkylooking, and unable to reflect light properly like beautiful hair should – not to mention the inevitable damage and cost should you ever need a professional to correct it.
When someone is choosing a stylist, what is a ‘must’ they should look for?
Chemistry and communication. If you can’t be open, honest, and comfortable with your stylist, chances are you won’t get exactly what you’re looking for. It’s important that people try and find a stylist they can connect with on a human, social level. Getting your hair done should be more than a service, it should be an experience. You aren’t here to get a tune-up or fix a part; you’re here to re-interpret who you are visually – that takes a lot more consideration. So take the time to find the right person for you.
ACHIEVEMENTS What makes a great hairstylist?
Vision. I’ve had the privilege of working with a variety of different talents in this industry – from the technically immaculate to the obtusely artistic. But the measure of both their successes is reliant on their vision. The idea and the concept that leads to the creation and then the execution; it’s what sets a hair cutter apart from a hair designer.
What do you like best about your profession?
I’d have to say the people. There is nothing more rewarding than sharing creative ventures with wonderful people. If it wasn’t for the people I’d be half the professional I am. I will always be grateful to those I’ve had the privilege to work with, learn from; and the clients I’ve had the honour to work on.
What have been your biggest achievements to date?
Although I’ve had the honour of working with a myriad of photographers, designers, and fantastic artistic teams just this past year – I’d have to say my biggest achievements are still within my personal Seasonal Collection work. Every year, before I started freelancing, I would create Seasonal Look Books of visually bold hair designs. These Collections are a reflection of my progression as an artist and contain some of my most ambitious work. My SS’11, LuminousCity, as an example, was created using hand-tinted hair pieces meticulously dyed with UV-reactive pigment and shot under strobes of black light to create “glowing” hair.
Have you ever worked your magic on a celebrity? If so who? If not, then who would be your dream client?
I have yet to touch the tresses of a true, bona fide celebrity; but, if I could choose a dream client to work on, it’d probably be the iconic Jeanne Beker. Not necessarily for the hair but just for the memory, I adore her.
Do you hire assistants, mentoring for young artists or provide any workshops or training?
Not at the moment, but that’s not to say that I wouldn’t love an assistant! Right now my iPhone is the best assistant I have. However, joking aside, I have seriously been toying with the idea of getting involved in instructor work. I love spreading inspiration and working with young artists; so I figure getting more involved in teaching the craft of hair would be something I’d naturally flourish in.
Any projects in the works that you can share with the readers? I always have at least two or three projects on the go. My time is generally split between working insalon, freelancing as a Session Stylist, and covering events and Collections on my Fashion Blog. My next ambitious venture will probably manifest next spring, when I start work on a new line of scarves that I hope to release for Fall 2013; I’m experimenting with expanding my market into Fashion Design. I also have an ambitious new Hair Collection planned to follow the success of LuminousCity that I should begin working on this winter.
CHALLENGES What’s a misconception about being a hair stylist or being in the fashion industry that’s simply not true?
There are gross misconceptions to both – the notion that being a Hairstylist isn’t an intelligent profession or a lucrative career, or that fashion as an industry is frivolous and contrived. I’ll say here what I say about all generalizations and constructed truths; it’s about people. I’ve met nothing but gracious, humble, artistic, and welcoming people in the beauty and fashion industry. Just because vanity is a big part of what the industry stands for, it doesn’t mean that the people who work within it are “stuck up”, arrogant, or ignorant. In fact, in my experience, it’s been quite the opposite. It’s about the people you meet.
What challenges have you faced as a hair stylist in Toronto? The magnitude and cultural expanse of the city is probably the greatest challenge. Most salons in our
city fail simply because of the competition alone. A new Hairstylist’s biggest obstacle is finding a market and maintaining it; and to do that they have to compete with the city. Toronto doesn’t really have any need for anymore Hairstylists; so you have to fight for your brand, establish an identity, and do amazing work – something that is simultaneously my greatest joy and greatest challenge.
With the glut of hairstylists in Toronto, how do you attract and retain clients? I try my best to create iconic work that is catered to each of my clients. But, work aside; I think it’s even more important to be communicative, relatable, and personable. I build relationships with my clients; I try to establish looks that work with their lifestyles and their levels of change. I never cut corners and I always do my best. I really want my clients to be happy, and I think that makes a difference. People will know if you care about the work that you do.
ADVICE What advice do you have for someone new who is trying to break into the industry? Do more than salon work. You can establish yourself as a master behind-the-chair; but unless you push your work into the media, no one outside of your market will really care. New Hairstylist’s should be excited and motivated to not only show-off their
work, but to actively participate in public events. Get people interested in who you are; brand yourself, network, build media connections. Go where the action is and be a part of it. And make sure that if you talk a big game as a Hairstylist that you are able to back it up with real results. People will remember you and they will call you, but you have to go to them.
metal head Pho t o grap h y/ a l ys s a wod a b e k hai rst yl i ng / d yl a n d i a s mak eup / t i f f a ny e nc i na j ew el ry / m. s e x t on b y m yl e s s e x ton wardro b e / Mi chel l e B a b o ol l a L - H o m e g r o w n B ou ti q u e m odel s / Cy Speck een & C h a r m a i ne S a n P e d r o - v e l oc c i pho t o graphy a s s i s ta nt / p a u l a vi s c o st y l i n g a s s i s ta nt / a na M .
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STEPHENLOBAN mehreen hussain
Every month, Fashion Series aims to feature a photographer whose work pushes boundaries to create images that are truly edgy, emotional, innovative and most of all capture a unique moment in time. Stephen M. Loban, a Toronto-based photographer has the natural ability to do this and much more. His photographs contain something special that requires our eyes take their time in absorbing the image; an untold story, a whispered secret treasure. Loban – deeply zealous about his photographic work – consistently creates images that are inspired and inventive. With a fresh, electrifying perspective on colourful sophistication his eye is able to catch the moment. And intelligence. “[Fashion photography]”, Loban explains, “is the creation of mood or attitude that embraces the brand and tells a story.” The versatility lies in the medium’s ability to appeal to each viewer differently. “The mood, that is fashion photography, is different to all who view it.” Unlike many in the industry, Loban is not fearful of the scope and evolution fashion entails. For Stephen, quite the opposite is true; he thrives on those ideas. “I feel as an artist, I should always be growing, trying new things and pushing my abilities and equipment.” It is his boundary-breaking nature along with his relentless desire to evolve that steadies his attraction to the vibrant world of fashion. Reflecting on fashion’s frequent alteration, he states, “fashion is dynamic and changes.” While Loban’s vision is usually one of simplicity, he admits, “Adding elements from the ‘real’ fashion world makes, what sometimes is a fantasy, something a bit more real.”
Inspired by photographers whose work is far from tedious, Loban mentions the names of noted fashion photographers, Steven Meisel, Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier as his artistic provocateurs. What has Loban learnt from them? “They are all team players,” he observes.“I have learned that your vision as an artist is personified by the team you work with.” While fashion photography itself has natural emotion, Loban believes “when you add the talents of all those on a fashion photo shoot set together, we create something unique that I emphasize through photography.” As a team player himself, Loban loves it when everyone on the shoot sets their mind to bring about ideas for the work. “The more people on set, including the model trying different pieces on, taking part, the better. I like lots of ideas.” When asked to self-describe his own photographic style, Loban is at a mild loss of words. Others, however, are clearly able to see that this master of photography has a precise, dynamic style with chic edge. Personally, he feels that “style should be diverse no matter what.” Loban’s images are steeped in diversity and he is delightedly able to produce a wide range of work with reaching resonation – his unique photographic style.
“[Whether] I shoot in the studio with strobes or outside in sunlight, it is still me.” His ability to work with outdoor lighting to produce in-studio results is striking. When models marvel at Loban’s ability to create outdoor studio lighting, Loban says, “I, of course, smile from ear to ear!” When asked what is more important, technique or vision, Loban replied simply: “Both.” emphasizing that great vision is of no use if you cannot execute the technical side of photography. That’s exactly why Loban is meticulous over the way he uses lighting. Loban is particularly fond of lighting from the side and from high above. “It creates many challenges for the models but I am about shadows and drama.” Of course, there are times where his lighting needs to adapt. This was what happened with the FORZA editorial – changing the lighting from the original plan was what had to happen. “It was one of those rare days when I scrapped everything and restarted.” Along with lighting techniques, there are about a million things that go through Loban’s mind just before his finger presses the shutter. “It’s become so instinctive that I don’t know what those are any more.” Those innate instincts have led Loban to this: “I know exactly what [the photos] will look like, even as I click the shutter.” Like many photographers, Loban dreams of working with international power brands, the likes of Chanel and international models on par with Karlie Kloss and Kate Moss. On the other hand, he believes that working with such brands and models would be less challenging as
they are already well established. “What is hard,” he explains, “is to take a less refined brand and make it look spectacular! And a not-so-experienced model and push her to a new place.” A photographer once told Loban, “a person will remember a good image for a couple of seconds but a great image, they will remember for a long time.” With this in mind, Loban hopes his images become embedded in memory stirring his viewers to creation. For emerging image-makers, Loban offers some insight: “Be true to yourself first. Love your work for you, not what you think someone else wants or does.” Driven by his heart, mind and the pursuit of marketing, Loban relentlessly uses his craft to push his name out internationally and locally in Canada. Stephen has credits in publications of such caliber as GLASSbook, Cielo, Lone Wolf, W25, Ellement, TANTALUM, PhotoVogue, and Juried making him a successful editorial photographer to say the least. Loban inherently loves lighting sets himself and seeing the fine details and differences between the shoots he produces. His least favourite part about the photographic process, he says, is “going home when it’s over.” That’s why Loban, a fervent professional, plans to sprawl outward and tackle global opportunities. “Next year, I will possibly go overseas to explore those markets.” No matter the continent, we are certain Stephen Loban will astonish the world with his radiant gift.
forza Pho t o grap h y/ S t e p h e n M . L ob a n Mak eup/ Ke l l y A r m s t r o ng Hai rST Y L I N G / Ro b e r t No v e l l o - S tu d i o Tor o nt o Mo del / K ry st a l R e e ve - NE X T ( C a na d a ) Wardro b e St y l i n g & I m a g e D i r e c t i o n/ L u i s Zu l a yh ka
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KEVINCHENG mehreen hussain
Slowly but surely Wardrobe Stylist, Kevin Cheng has been climbing the fashion ladder destined to get to the top. Born and raised in the fashion capital of Asia, the stylish prodigy took upon himself the liberty of dressing himself for school at just the age of five. “If my mother matched my clothes for me and I didn’t like it, I would rather stay home all day,” he laughs. This eye for fashion, at such an early age, Kevin credits to growing up amidst the brand conscious, fashion lovers of Hong Kong. The mecca for designer brands, Hong Kong also had a great impact on how he saw fashion as a child. “I think Hong Kong has the most designer brands as a city.” He explains how, in the seventies and eighties, the presence of night clubs in Hong Kong led to the locals spending a lot of money on fashion to impress the masses. Of course, the presence of labour class in Hong Kong attracted a lot of designers to open stores in the city, he explains. “China was still not open to fashion in the seventies and eighties, so all the eminent designers, they came to HK.” And this exposure is what propelled a love for fashion in the young boy. “I saw a lot of beautiful stores since I was young. I think that’s what made me love fashion so much.” How does fashion in Hong Kong compare to Toronto, a city which Kevin now calls home? “They are totally different cultures,” he explains. “Toronto people care more about style than brand, where as in Hong Kong, the people care more about the brand.” This multicultural facet of Toronto is very appealing to Kevin as he loves exploring. “[Toronto] accepts many styles which gives me more ideas to merge different cultures together.” At the same time, Kevin believes that the immaturity of Toronto’s fashion industry makes it hard for fashion artists to make a living here. “Not many people want to spend money on fashion, so there’s not enough money to support.”
While Toronto’s fashion industry is a tough business to break into, Kevin had no trouble landing an internship with Regen Chen, a Toronto-based fashion photographer, when he first got here. He has produced a lot of great editorials with Regen, and other photographers, while working with a lot of agency models and gaining valuable experience that has expanded his portfolio tremendously. What keeps Kevin working in this cut-throat industry? He’s addicted to fashion, he says. For him, fashion is a beautiful mixture of lifestyle and art that he jokingly admits he wouldn’t mind going broke for. Over the years, he notes, that while fashion has become increasingly elite, fashion photography, film and internet has led to a more conscious engagement with fashion on a street level. “Fashion photography and film encourage people to be creative and to explore their own adventures and personal style.” He finds that fashion photography is the perfect blend of fashion and art that inspires and excites people to break out of their shells. “People are not scared to wear what they want on the streets,” he exclaims. Kevin himself is fearless when it comes to style. “Great style gives you confidence.” Having been on a styling mission since he was just a pre-schooler, this fashion expert has a certain style that he’s been following for years: “[Everything] all black with crazy cuts.” Oh yes, and there’s the love of fur that he just cannot do without. He is a big fan of Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo (founder of COMME des GARCON), and Yohiji Yamamoto - whose designs and style resonate well with his own personal style. With a killer style and the ability to create art with it, Kevin is sure to be one of those trendsetters that take the fashion scene by storm.
duality Pho t o gr a p h y / r e g e n c h e n Mo del / ai dan - e l i t e m od e l m a na g e m e nt W ardro b e S tyl i ng / KE VI N C H E NG cl o t hi ng / tox i c vi s i o n
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VITALYDESIGn kathlyn gardner
Shane Foran, founder and designer of Vitaly Design, takes pride in all of his designs and wouldn’t create a piece that he wouldn’t wear himself. With costume jewelry available in every major mass production retail store, it’s a feat to find a fresh design at top quality. Vitaly Design provides customers with a clean yet bold aesthetic using rich and exotic material from across the globe. Despite the obvious luxury, customers and wallets can breathe easy since each piece is easily affordable. The androgynous designs are precisely cut, well crafted, and versatile; but most importantly required passion, time, and detailed work from its designer. Paying close attention to the details was never foreign to Foran. He is meticulous with his work and ensures that every piece of the company, from the products to the website, are elements he can put his name on with pride. And although going into fashion was never on his agenda, his friends would say otherwise. “I was always observant... they said that I would always notice what other people were wearing”, he shrugs. And despite Foran not being able to see his future coming, he was well prepared when it arrived. Foran attended Ryerson aspiring to own his own business. He busied himself with three jobs and school. After graduating he shares that he had a recurring dream, “I now know that the dreams meant that I needed to find balance.” So with 3,000 dollars left from his student credit, he travelled to the other side of the world and found warmth in a small town located in Bali, Indonesia. A spark struck inside of him and fueled Vitaly Design. An idea, design, and prototype later; Foran made his concept aware to the public and was stunned by the amount of positive feedback he received. “At first I thought that people were only buying rings because they were a trend. When pieces that were being purchased that weren’t two or three fingered rings... [I knew] that was the turning point.” Using his prior knowledge in
business and the support from his friends and family; Vitaly Design was born. At first he was selling his product online but then ventured to find a shop that would support Vitaly Design. Upon scouting for potential buyers, Foran visited Decibel on Queen St. W where he spoke to the store owner and, after looking at Vitaly products, they bought the rings on the spot. “Everything worked out in the end”, Foran explains. Since Vitaly Design is still a new brand, Foran is concentrating on promoting the company and reaching out to stores. With the company growing in success, Foran’s schedule fills up just as quickly. So what does Shane Foran do with the majority of his time? “Emails”, he laughs. Vitaly Design, although new, has taught Foran a lot of hard lessons, but lessons nonetheless. “It’s been a crash course but I honestly learned more in the past six months than my four years in school.” With Vitaly Design’s newest collection, Clocks and Colours, Foran ventures deeper into richer and tougher materials. The first half of the collection was introduced at a launch party just in time for the holidays, with the other half to be announced in the coming year; and features double and single rings with the classic Vitaly look. The ceramic rings in the collection are not only finished with a clean and glossy sheen, but are surprisingly durable as well. Ultimately, Foran wants Vitaly Design to be a global brand. He shares his experiences of people recognizing his products on the street and the pride he receives with that. “I want my brand to be recognized.” Vitaly Design, like its products, is classic. It celebrates simple designs with humble beginnings. It ventures out and dares to try all things new, it’s persistent in the industry yet patient in the making, but most importantly, it is a direct reflection of the people that wrap them around their knuckles; people like Shane Foran.
a man apart Pho t o g r a p h y/ P OL K L I A NG Mo del / k ri st i an ki r kp a tr i c k - o r a ng e m od e l s cl o t h i ng / f e r kno t j ew el r y / vi ta l y d e s i g n W ardro b e St yl i ng / j or g e c a l d e r on M ake up & Hai rst y l i n g / M E L A NI E TR A N - B OU R G I E A R T I S T S
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dylanuscher kathlyn gardner
“Genuine” is quite a weighty word these days. Dylan Uscher, one-man-company owner and founder of Dylanium Knits (dylaniumknits.com) offers up an entirely glamorous, sparkling new definition. Dylan employs minimal assistance from machinery, designing and bringing life to his striking conceptions. Uscher was raised in Cambridge, Massachusetts, by an activism-conscious family who encouraged him to remain conscientious. In 2005, he situated himself in Toronto for schooling at University of Toronto, where he earned his Masters in Linguistics. Before he began designing, he held academic aspirations of professor-dom and found a different calling along the way. A friend first introduced Dylan to knitting on a bus ride, and with help from an industry-connected friend, an endless supply of parental cheerleading it’s now been seven years in and he’s never looked back. Uscher, although still green in the industry, is no stranger to success, having worked on numerous collections with the likes of Greta and Ezra Constantine, Philip Sparks and David C. His desire is to shatter old traditions with his work but grows fond at the possibility of collaborating with designers of times gone by. The itch to construct his own line is becoming intense and he says, “The designers often have a design in their minds but they don’t know how to get it done, and that’s where I come in.” With a frantic datebook, people eyeing his daring, avantgarde accessories and with the projects he has set for release next year, Uscher is always on the hunt for extraordinary materials. During the recent Toronto Fashion Week, he garnered attention with his knit, studded leather rings and bracelets landing himself some new
clientele. He says, “leather is tough on the hands but it has this structure that yarn doesn’t give you. So it’s fun to experiment with.” Having once taken an interest in sewing, Dylan enjoys pushing his flair for design to new frontiers - however unsuccessful he claims the venture to have been. “I am so bad at sewing! I can’t even sew a straight line!” Despite roadblocks in garment design, Uscher nurtures an admirable interest in learning and for each new project he takes to bring with it a new skill, technique or material. Developing discipline is something Uscher also nurtures. Knitting takes obsessive commitment to complete with smaller doses of math and patience. He explains, “knitting is a passion but most of all it’s still work... I had a few major projects coming up and I spent the whole month of July in my apartment knitting! That whole month I only had one afternoon off.” Living alone in a new city without family near isn’t always easy but he says he’s found a community in Toronto’s fashion scene. You could say that this scene is quickly becoming his family. “The industry has been very supportive... You can tell that the designers in Toronto really want to see the community thrive.” While Dylan continues to conquer the Toronto scene, he plans to venture into Montreal and Vancouver after. Unable to imagine a life without knitting in it, he manages to somehow attract a constant flow of new patrons and what draws them in is the very human touch he knits into every stitch.
verge Pho t o gr a p h y / P OL K L I A NG Mak e u p / V E R O NI C A G . Hai rST Y L I N G / MEL A NI E T R A N - B OU R G I E A R T I S T S Mo del / l i n g - e l i t e m od e l m a na g e m e nt W ardro b e S tyl i ng / m od a d a s h a accesso ri e s / d yl a ni u m kni t s .c o m
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adrianSoto mehreen hussain
Born and raised in Madrid, Spain, Adrian Soto was always inspired and motivated by the city and the positivity it radiates. “Madrid is a city where you see fashion on every single corner.” For Soto, this meant the absorption of new ideas, new ways of hairstyling and new ways of working. However, his dreams of working in fashion meant that he would pack his bags and move to the fashion capital of the world: London, UK. Attracted to the fashion-fueled creativity and energetic London – one of the major cities in European fashion, Soto left his native town to advance his pursuit of fashion. While the move to London was a no-brainer for the twenty three year old hairstylist, getting a job there was somewhat challenging for the Spanish native who knew little to next to no English at the time of his migration. “When I asked if there were any positions available at the salon I’m working for now, there was a position but I couldn’t speak any English.” To test Soto, the trendy Covent Garden salon Hairy by Fairy asked him to bring two people to the shop and cut their hair. Being new in the city, Soto did not have any family or friends that he could just whip into the salon for a haircut but the creative minded Soto was not ready to give up. “I went out there, to the streets of Covent Garden, found two people, cut their hair and got the job,” he proudly discloses. While Soto’s position as a hairstylist at Hairy by Fairy could be attributed to his unconventional approach, he credits all he knows about fashion and hairstyling to the experience gained from working in the industry. “I would say that all I know is based on experience, working with very experienced people all these years.”
It is this experience that, over time, has brought Soto to an ultimate adoration of styling hair. Living and working in London has given him the opportunity to meet a vast array of client types and execute all sorts of styles he finds enjoyable. In a time where people are pulling out their hair from the roots due to vocation detestation, Soto finds happy satiation in his work. “It satisfies me,” he simply puts. With a content heart, being a hair stylist is more than just a profession for Soto. He is exceptionally happy with his career choice and is continually working to provide his clients with absolute hair perfection. He holds client happiness in high regard and loves changing the way his client feels about their self with a fresh style. He also loves watching a client’s facial expression and demeanor change over the duration of an appointment. As a hairstylist, he believes it’s all about the personal touch of sass a hairstylist can give to any head of hair. When asked what his biggest achievement has been he responded, “to be able to gain my customer’s confidence, not only for doing the same thing over and over, but being able to give a different touch every time.” With a major glut of hairstylists in London, Soto’s experience with hair and his passion for satisfying his clients aids him tremendously in maintaining and developing his client base. That’s why for those pursuing a career in hairstyling, Soto advises, “Do not only follow the manual, but enjoy doing it and put all your personality into it.” With this motto, he believes you can only advance professionally and enhance your art. “There are no limits.”
cracked Pho t o gr a p h y/ g e m m a a l b o r s MO DEL / L a u r a L i g e i kyte Mak eu p / A r l e ta Kr e m e r HAI RST Y L I NG / A d r i a n S ot o W ARDRO B E ST YL I NG / L a u r a F e r na nd e z CL O T HI N G / t op s h o p & Ne w l o ok l o nd o n
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