Fashion Series SIN by Fashion Series Archive

fashionSERIES sin

fashionSERIES Fashion Series is an electronic publication entirely dedicated to discovering, showcasing and promoting Toronto’s emerging and established fashion industry professionals. Our mission is to provide a distinct platform for fashion photographers, models, designers, wardrobe stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, bloggers, and illustrators through visual series and exclusive interviews. Fashion Series will highlight these rising stars by encouraging and unveiling their talents in the form of a cohesive photographic collection. In addition, via exclusive interviews, we aim to yield some background information about the showcased artist, the artist’s intention, technical specification, an indication of their work’s historical and theoretical context - and, at the same time, provide our readers with an invaluable insight into the world of fashion visualization.

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FASHION SERIES ISSN 1929-4786

is the voice of Toronto’s aspiring fashion industry professionals. Available 24 hours online via www.fashionseries.ca. Entire contents are © by Fashion Series Archive unless otherwise stated.

THE TEAM CEO/EDITOR IN CHIEF Mehreen Hussain WRITERS Gillian deGraaf Jaskirat Gebi Kate Koler Kathlyn Rose STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Polk Liang ASSISTANT TO EDITOR IN CHIEF Aiysha Khan Fatima Idris Nadia Khan

COVER IMAGE CREDITS Polk Liang, photographer Michelle Emiliani, makeup artist Mark Jordy Gonzales, hair stylist Richelle Coomey, featured model

taya marquis

Melanie tran

richelle coomey

michael leland

ayo van elmar

nicole kawalez

xavier ness

peggy lee

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taya

marquis Mehreen Hussain & Gillian DeGraaf

Taya Marquis may have very well redefined what it means to be an ambitious young women these days. While your average teenage girl may be consumed in thoughts of boys, shopping or what they aspire to be, Taya is well on her way to accomplishing more at her young age than most do in a lifetime. Since graduating from a performing arts secondary school, Taya has written for world renowned pop artists, Ke$ha and Britney Spears; worked with one of the top songwriters, Robert Allen; composed the main theme song for Sony’s video game “The Agency”; been nominated for Hollywood Music Awards; collaborated with top reggae artists as well as with a well-respected producers; and shared the stage with Jully Black, K’naan, Keys n Krates at festivals like Canada’s Walk of Fame, Toronto International Music Summit and Honey Jam. Creativity, dedication and an enticing voice are all characteristics that make Taya stand out from many others in the game and let her shine the brightest when she’s given the opportunity. Her quirky pizazz goes along with her girly appeal, which makes you want to know more about her. We caught up with the beautifully talented Toronto-native to find out about her life as a songstress, what inspires her fashion and music style and to see what big plans she has for the future!

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background As a young girl, what attracted you to writing, singing and/or performing? When I was around eight years old, I was into the Spice Girls - they had a commanding presence and I wanted that power. As a child I also loved Christina Aguilera –her vocal range was incredible, I used to sing her songs and my hobby became trying to match her every note. Britney Spears – her dancing was hypnotic. I could barely take my eyes off her when she performed. On TV, I was engaged with the performance and I pictured myself on stage with all of them. I thought it was all about singing but around ten, I learned about songwriting and so I wrote my first song, “L-O-V-E”.

How did your family background influence your career? Throughout my childhood my parents and relatives hosted these elaborate parties where I was asked to sing songs like Mariah Carey’s “Hero”. I always ended up being the entertainment at most of these partie. Even though it was 30 to 40 people max, I learned how not to be shy in front of an audience. How did growing up in Toronto affect your career choice? I was exposed to so many scenes in Toronto, we have a strong hip-hop, electro, and R&B scene. Seeing all these musicians influence each other was inspiring. I didn’t realize how this diverse mix helped my songwriting until I moved to L.A. - it opened me up to so many worlds.

“When I was around eight years old, I was into the Spice Girls - they had a commanding presence and I wanted that power.”

top SEDUCTION tights H&M

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fashion style & inspiration Do you use fashion to convey your ideas & emotions? If so, how? My music represents my fashion. My lyrics can be fierce and edgy but also soft and vulnerable so I play with that when I am thinking about what to wear. What do you think about the relationship between music and fashion? Fashion is a tool to help me visually express my music. When you read a story about a musician in a magazine, there is no play button but you still need to get a sense of who the person is. Rihanna’s a great example because she doesn’t wear anything that doesn’t match her personality. She’s fearless. How does living in Toronto stack up when it comes to learning about the newest fashion trends and styles? I think Toronto has so many fashion designers who seek out and support musicians. You don’t get that in every city. Toronto based fashion designer Natasha Sakhuja — designer of Sakhuja Designs— was looking for a performer for her runway show at FAT [Fashion Arts Toronto designer showcase] and after looking at her collection, we connected right away. I loved the fact that she draws from her culture because as a musician, I’m constantly drawing from my own experiences. Whenever we see you in photos, you are always dressed to the “T”. What is your inspiration when you are going out to an event or do you have a stylist? I feel fashion is an art form, and I use it to express myself, the artist in me just does that. I’m always looking to extend my fashion repertoire and knowledge. When it comes to photo shoots, I get a lot of help from my stylist Hans Munoz who is also a good friend of mine - he

keeps me up to date on new styles. I keep my eye out for clothes that catch my attention. I don’t always dress with the trends. It’s usually whatever I’m feeling at that moment. What is your closet consumed by? Sequin dresses. Combat boots. Fur vests. Head scarfs. Black stilettos. Cargo pants. Beanies. Crop tops. Denim shorts. Lingerie Tuxes. And even a homemade, 10-pound industrial chain necklace. Does your music influence your dress sense? Of course. Songs are about emotion so it’s all about how I feel. When I’m getting ready to go out, how I feel affects what I choose in my closet. Even down to what socks and lingerie I pick. Does being a musician affect the way you dress? I can’t just throw on jogging pants and a T-shirt. I always see my clothes as a mirror for my music. What I want to convey should match what I’m wearing. This goes for my videos and my performances on stage. And, especially when I have to walk a red carpet. As far as designers, do you prefer established labels or up-and-comers? For now, I’m absorbing ideas from so many emerging designers. I love it because I feel like I’m wearing their heart since they put so much into what they make. I feel like they motivate me so much because they trust me with their babies. Who are some celebrities/models that you find truly inspirational for their personal style? Beyonce. Azaelia Banks. Jennifer Lopez knows how to rock a metallic.

“My lyrics can be fierce and edgy but also soft and vulnerable so I play with that when I am thinking about what to wear.”

dress SAKHUJA FW 2012 The Five Stages of Grief Collection

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music style & inspiration How would you classify your singing/songwriting style? Pop/R&B with strong, rich vocals and a wide range. I see myself as a pop artist but I also have jazz, R&B and country influences. Songwriting-wise, I love writing about bad relationships with a comedic twist. The music industry is very competitive. What makes your work stand out? My work is so personal and even though its fun and has catchy hooks, it isn’t afraid to talk about the realness of love. A song that I’m working on right now is called “Break Me Down” and the lyrics sound a little mean — “Passing My Phone Around/ Showing My Girls How You Cryin’ And Beggin’/ And That Just Makes Us LOL/ Cuz We Poppin’ Bottles Right Now” — but its really just about someone getting over a bad relationship. What is the biggest risk you have ever taken as a singer/songwriter? I left home when I was 18 to work in L.A. as a songwriter. It totally paid off because I got to write with Ke$ha as well as collaborate with Rihanna and Chris Brown’s songwriting team. As a singer, do you feel like you’re doing ‘work’ or is it still just as exciting and satisfying as if it were a passion/hobby? Don’t be fooled, it was magical to write a song like “La Discotheque” with Ke$ha. We bounced ideas off each other for hours.... but it was intense because there was a lot of pressure. She’s a huge star and I wanted to be my best. At the end of the day, no matter how much I love what I do, it’s hard work. You have to show up to the studio with a million ideas and you have to deal with all sorts of egos. Who were your favourite artists? Mariah Carey’s songs were so challenging to learn. Her recordings pushed me. Beyonce taught me about attitude and how to convey the lyrics, physically and emotionally. Britney Spears isn’t afraid to make mistakes. She’s not about being perfect and I love her for that.

Where do you draw your inspiration from while writing? My relationships, my friend’s relationships and my dreams all go into my songs. I like to write in the moment. If I just got off an upsetting phone call, I have to force myself to write lyrics right there and then because I want to capture exactly what I am going through in that moment. What singers/artists do you look up to now? Usher and Rihanna are amazing. And, of course, Ke$ha because she writes her own music and she taught me how to not be afraid of being edgy. What’s new and interesting in Canadian music that the world should pay attention to? I listen to Drake and The Weeknd because I respect them for writing about such raw, real parts of their life. They may not be considered new but they are always looking for new talent to collaborate with. After hearing Drake’s verse in Rihanna’s “What’s My Name,” I’ve been inspired to work with him. Some of the musicians I work with are definitely up and coming. People like Neo Tempus and Isaac Boldt are artists to look out for. Canada is usually overlooked as an entertainment and fashion hub, but is that changing? Yes. Look at the Grammys this year! Melanie Fiona, Carly Rae Jepsen and Tamia all got nominated this year so we are definitely starting to become more and more recognized. What is the biggest misconception people have about working in the industry? That money is being flung around everywhere. You have to invest in yourself as an artist first and reap no benefits for a long time. If you are doing it just for the money, pick another career. You have to be in this for the passion as well. Don’t get me wrong – the money is great. But the truth is there has to be a fine balance between the both of them.

“I love writing about bad relationships with a comedic twist.”

dress SAKHUJA

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success & Future endeavours What is a motto you like to live by and encourage others to follow? Feet on the ground, head in the clouds! What mark do you want to leave in this world? I hope through my debut album I can make a real connection on a personal level with my fans and become a positive influence in their lives. What is your biggest accomplishment? Something you are utterly proud of? My music. I’m writing and recording right now and it should be finished next year. I’m also proud of the shows I’ve done so far, including Canada’s Walk of Fame, the Toronto International Music Summit and Honey Jam. For those who don’t know what I’m about, you can go to TayaMarquis.com

What are the latest projects you are working on? Could you brief us on some of them? Right now I’m just working on songs. I’m building with producers like Terence Lam (Kuya Productions – JRDN), Chuck (Esthero, Lights), Neo Tempus (Rich Kidd, Promise) and Jarrell. Where can we hear more from you or see more of your work? When I’m in the studio, working on something new or performing, I like to share it with my Facebook page and twitter - facebook.com/tayamarquismusic / @tayamarquis. And my YouTube channel has recent covers I did: youtube.com/tayamarquis

“I hope [that] through my debut album, I can make a real connection on a personal level with my fans and become a positive influence in their lives.”

dress LE CHATEAU

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melanie

tran Mehreen Hussain

Embrace Melanie Tran, a talented, motivated and ambitious Toronto-based Makeup Artist who did not always have a thirst for makeup. As a little girl, Melanie continuously channeled her creativity through art and drawing. It wasn’t until after graduating from high school when her love for visual art and passion for creative expression translated into makeup becoming her choice of medium. “After high school, I knew makeup artistry was my calling! It was something I excelled at and had a passion for!” While Melanie initially self-taught some makeup techniques by watching makeup tutorials on YouTube and applying makeup on her friends for fun, she soon realized that in order to develop her skills and enhance her knowledge on a professional level, she must get some professional training. Dedicated to her dreams of being a Professional Makeup Artist one day, she enrolled in Seneca College where she completed a two year Cosmetic Techniques & Management Program. The program at Seneca College unleashed Melanie’s talents, which go as far from Beauty & Fashion makeup application to Special FX makeup to the likes of ghastly figures such as Freddy Krueger. Not wanting to limit herself as an artist, Melanie is constantly striving to learn new trades that will add to her skill set. “I am also currently

[enrolled at Marca College for Hair Design] strengthening my hair skills, so that I can be a well rounded Artist.” Recognizing the strong passion and determination in Melanie, Kim Goodman, the CEO of Toronto-based talent agency, BOURGIE Artists, signed her as a freelance artist. Working with BOURGIE has allowed Melanie to expand her portfolio via published work. She is constantly around stimulating and creative people that are established in the industry and in their craft. In her short career as a BOURGIE Artist, Melanie has already worked on the sets of fashion and beauty editorials alongside some of Toronto’s promising photographers, models and designers. That’s why Melanie is so grateful to Kim Goodman for providing her with opportunities to grow as a Makeup Artist and Hairstylist. While working as a Makeup Artist has been very promising for Melanie, she has encountered some misled conceptions about her occupation. “A lot of people think it’s such an easy job,” she states. Melanie finds that not a lot of people recognize the dedication and hard work required to be a Makeup Artist. This leads to makeup artists and their art being far too under appreciated in the industry. “We don’t get paid vacations, sick days or even get bonuses for outstanding performances,” Melanie explains.

Without passion and determination, it is next to impossible to make it as a makeup artist in an industry that demands long hours and a lot of unpaid jobs. There just simply is not enough market for makeup artistry to be appreciated as an art form. For Melanie this just means that one can never stop working, especially if the goal is to get to and remain on the top. “You’re always on the grind for the next job.” Jobs that involve photo shoots are a time when emotions are high, days are long and tiring and since you are dealing with creative people in a time crunch, it can get out of control. Despite the chaotic mess a shoot can be, Melanie always has a lovely way about her. She maintains a reputation for being a team player who is able to achieve clean and beautiful looks on a fast-paced schedule. Her secret? She takes the time to organize everything the night before so she’s ready to tackle the day. With her tools ready to go, Melanie is able to stay relaxed and calm under pressure while maintaining a friendly attitude. For her getting to know everyone working with her on set also helps make the shoot more enjoyable. “Once I get to know the people I’m working with, the shoot doesn’t feel so tiring and long.” Misconceptions, long hours and tiring days, are also not enough to affect the positive impression Melanie has developed of the fashion industry for the past two years. Matter of fact, She sees each photo shoot as an opportunity to network and build connections for future projects. Living in Toronto and working in the fashion industry here has been nothing but enjoyable for this talented artist. “It’s fun, and people really get to bring out their personality through fashion.” It is this personality that Melanie loves to enhance with her own makeup. While many artists find reward in recognition or seeing something they worked hard to create published, what Melanie finds most rewarding is making her client’s personality sparkle with her art. “I like bringing my client’s personality to light with touches of colours.” Making a positive impact on the lives of her clients makes her feel proud of her work. “I love to see their confidence sky rocket after getting dolled up!” Of course, Melanie has a specific creative process that enables her to boost her client’s confidence. The main things she focuses on are skin type and facial

features. “It’s very important to understand what skin type you are working with in order to know what type of products to use.” Since Melanie is all about subtle transformations and helping her clients draw out the best version of their natural complexion and most flattering features, she loves to highlight and contour. Melanie has a long list of products she uses on her clients but she loves makeup that does not interrupt skin’s natural functions. “I love mineral makeup because it feels very light on your skin and gives a flawless finish.” A must for her is Ben Nye Banana Powder, an ultra-neutral powder that sets the makeup very well and can be used for all skin types. “It gives the skin an excellent matte yet subtle finish.” Even her own personal ‘go-to’ look composes of a natural look with neutral warm eyes and a nude lip colour with a hint of lipgloss. She believes every woman should have a great mascara, a blush or bronzer, and a lipstick or lipgloss in their daily makeup bag. “With these few items, you can put together a very fresh, yet simple makeup look.” When asked about celebrity looks that inspire her, Melanie names the trendy superstar Nicki Minaj. “She is always reinventing her style and I love the fact that she rocks her looks so well.” And when it comes to her ideal beauty, Kim Kardashian is on top of her list. “Her makeup is always on point,” she say. Like other makeup artists who dream of applying makeup on their favourite celebrity, Melanie, inspired by the E.T music video, has hopes of dolling up Katy Perry one day. While many prominent makeup artists –Scott Barnes, Joyce Bonellie and Mario Dedivanovic – inspire her career, it is the undisputed makeup genius, Kevin Aucoin that motivate her and her journey as a Makeup Artist entirely. “He truly inspired me with his story as a makeup artist and I really hope my journey will be as successful as his.” Having worked with her on multiple shoots, it is quite evident that Melanie has those must-have creative skills and determination required to be a success in the ever-changing makeup artist community. Her positive attitude, enthusiasm and excitement to work and continuously grow as a Makeup Artist is definitely what keeps her focused on her passion and will, one day, allow her to doll up Katy Perry.

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richelle

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Many young girls idolize the glamorous life of being a model. Richelle Coomey admired this lifestyle from a distance but never thought she would aspire to be a model herself. She was simply too shy. “I appreciated their beauty, but certainly did not imagine myself in front of the camera.” The young Richelle pictured herself doing something in fine arts or literature, but modeling, never. However, escaping from modeling, was not an option for the eyecatcher whose DNA screams model. Literally. Her father had been a model in his early days. But it was his job as a buyer in the apparel industry that first attracted Richelle to the fashion world. “After buying trips, he would come home with colourful pieces from other countries and that sparked my interest in apparel.” This interest, however, wasn’t enough to convince this beauty that she belongs in the fashion world as a model. How did Richelle become a model then? Through word of mouth. Impressed by Richelle’s striking good looks, a family friend referred her to a wedding photographer looking for a model to help build his beauty portfolio at the time. She was quite nervous and excited at the same time. “I kept thinking of all the things that I might do wrong, I wanted to excel and was over thinking and over analyzing.” That didn’t stop the photographer from recommending that she continue modeling and work with other local photographers. “I did so just for pure enjoyment at the beginning.” Progressively, however, she started working with people that were more established in the industry. Seeing how she had a knick for modeling, many suggested that Richelle approach an agency, but she was just too intimidated to do so. It wasn’t until Richelle contacted Chantale Nadeau that her career as a professional model kicked off. Chantale took Richelle under her wing and provided her with one of her first break in the industry. “It has been great for me to have her support, she has been an incredible mentor and coach.” Chantale’s love for the models she works with has been something Richelle is truly thankful for. “[She] has nothing but their best interests at heart.” Once Richelle broke into the industry, the modeling world took her by surprise. It was nothing like what she had thought it would be. She soon realized that behind every image in a magazine, there’s immense amount of undisclosed creativity, hard work and countless number of individuals that make it all happen. “What goes unseen are the many people involved just to get that one shot,” she

explains, “And to get that image, it’s hours of makeup and hair and usually unexpected locations.” While Richelle was taken back by the preparation work that was required for those few minutes in front of a camera, she was amazed by the opportunity to work with all the creative individuals involved. Being part of that artistic expression that creates profound visual results and personal satisfaction, for Richelle, was the most exciting part about modeling. “You’re creating something with complete strangers usually, and then when you see the final product after weeks or months of killing anticipation, you’re extremely proud.” And now, with an extensive list of modeling credentials and achievements to her name, Richelle shares with us, two career achievements that she is most proud of. The first time she got published in a magazine, she was overflowing with excitement. “Bursting into the store, running to check out, flipping through the magazine to find those pictures was such a surreal moment.” And then, there was the time where she got to work with celebrity hair and makeup artist, Paul Venoit. “On the way to the shoot, I was so nervous yet spiked with adrenaline [that] I was shaking.” However, Venoit’s easy going and witty demeanour along with his talent made for a really wonderful experience for Richelle. It is this experiences as such that Richelle has learnt a lot about the industry and about herself. “You need to remember not to lose yourself in this business.” Staying humble, grateful and true herself are on top of her list as she continues her journey as a model. When Richelle first started modeling, a few people looked down upon her choice of career. “[They thought] I had given into a superficial business.” There was a face of disapproval attached to all the negative stigmas and stereotypes, which, for Richelle, is unfortunate as many aren’t true. “I see modeling as a creative business and art. [It] has indeed enhanced me and made me more confident, but I really am still myself.” Being in the public eye, models bare a responsibility to uphold a positive image, especially with all the stereotypical assumptions associated with the occupation. “You need to represent in a light that gives models a good name.” Models are responsible for their image as they are not only representatives of themselves, but also the agency and the client they are working for. “You need to be the epitome of what your agencies and the magazines want to see.”

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Because she wants to embody the perfection models are to exuberate, Richelle is very critical about herself. She loves working just with face so is learning how to work her features – especially her eyes and lips. “I draw a lot of inspiration from drawings that I’ve done trying to express a look I have created with my own skin and bones. Being a model, you really have to get in tune and in touch with your body and learn to love it.” Richelle finds that her jaw line has to be her most prominent feature that she can easily use to add interest. “I find if I get stuck or am getting a little repetitive, I start working with it more, using exaggerated angles.” Richelle believes that other than having a great look and knowing how to work that look, there are a lot of elements that are crucial to one’s success as a model. “You have to know how to represent yourself and do it well,” she explains. “You have to be reliable.” As showing up on time, being energetic and having an easygoing personality really helps. “Enthusiasm about the job and the client is important, so always do your research about the client,” she suggests. “Being a little creative yourself as well as open minded is beneficial.” Being prepared is another thing, Richelle has found to be helpful as a model. You will never find Richelle attend a go-see or a shoot without her plain black heels, strapless nude bra and seamless underwear. But most importantly, this health conscious model makes sure she has a protein bar handy to keep herself fueled for when she gets hungry at never ending photo shoots. “I enjoy eating healthy,” she explains. “I view it as a healthy lifestyle choice and not a temporary diet.” Like many models, there was a time Richelle thought she was eating well but that wasn’t the case. “I actually wasn’t eating great as I wasn’t eating enough,” she admits. “I didn’t know about portions, or how often I should be eating and all the little secrets.” Now that she’s educated herself on proper nutrition, she has learnt to keep her body fueled in a balanced way. “I always try to keep my plates colourful and balance by greens, proteins and needed nutrients.” She also advises other models to do the same. “Be healthy.” With the extreme pressure on young girls to be a certain size and height, she emphasizes the need to educate oneself on proper nutrition and exercise. “Everyone’s different,” she explains, “so you cannot compare yourself to others.” Richelle believes that if the agencies want you, it is always for a reason. “You are as unique as

your body type, so you need to learn to work with it. You also need to love yourself.” For Richelle, being a model has been very rewarding and so she really respects the business, which requires a commitment that many aren’t ready for. “You have to be ready to commit your body and soul,” Richelle states, “it really is worth it but you have to be ready to work for it.” Especially in the beginning when it is the toughest. “It really is about building trust, establishing yourself and being a reliable model.” There are times when a model is sent to a job and returns without being chosen. “It’s hard as most agencies want you available full time,” she explains. “You need to cover your own traveling costs and other random expenses.” That’s why she proposes that aspiring models find and maintain a part-time job in the beginning. “Part of my income was working for a local artist.” Luckily her boss was flexible with working hours so Richelle could attend to her modeling career. A lover of everything art, Richelle’s spare time is spent wandering into galleries as well as art and book stores to see what’s new. “I love learning and staying stimulated.” Richelle is an avid gym-goer that loves spending time outdoors in anyway possible. “There’s always a desire for self-improvement, self-expression, and participating in life as much as one can.” Friends, family and outings take up a lot of this beautiful soul’s time. What’s next for Richelle? She’s not sure yet. One thing she is sure about is that she’s in love with modeling and would love to still be modeling. “It’s highly addictive and I hope to continue to pursue it.” She’s not sure where this love or career will take her but is awaits the future enthusiastically. “I’m with a few different agencies now and am very excited to see what opportunities arise in the future.” She dreams to, one day, find a way to balance all the create endeavours she is involved in – art, modeling and writing – and hopes to do something that changes and creates a movement. “I just want to keep expressing,” she says. “I would love to somehow make an impact on others, not sure with what medium, however.” Everyone wants to be known for doing something great, to be recognized for their achievements and accomplishments. “I really believe in having a purpose – that we should strive to create a positive impact in the short time that we are here.”

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fall from grace photographer | polkliang.wix.com/xxxxxx model | richelle coomey makeup artist | michelle emiliani hairstylist | mark jordy gonzales

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michael

leland Mehreen Hussain

LA-based photographer Michael Leland was always a visual person. “[Growing up,] movies inspired me a lot.” He was fascinated by the work of renowned American photographers, Sante Dorazio and David LaChapelle. “[I] loved the visual and graphic nature of their work in fashion, photography and pop culture.” Attraction to fashion side of photography was inevitable because of the similarity he perceived in both. “Photography and fashion are very similar in the way that you can identify quality.” So deep was his love for pictorial and filmic visualization, that when it came to deciding his major at university, he chose photography. Still, it is in the opportunity of working with many amazing photographers, Michael found the greatest knowledge. Amongst many others, he got the chance to actually work with someone he looked up to all his life: David LaChapelle. “This was my real education,” explains the former University of Minnesota student. “School and knowledge is always great but you learn the most by just believing that you can do it, and trying.” Michael’s journey as a photographer began after he moved to Los Angeles from Minneapolis at the age of 20. He initially started by assisting and shooting headshots. “The next thing I knew I was traveling the world, meeting famous people and making friends from everywhere.”

Despite globetrotting all over the world, Michael has a special place in his heart for the city of Los Angeles. “Since I’ve lived most of my life in LA now, it definitely feels like home.” The city motivates Michael and fuels his creativity in numerous ways. “There are so many different locations and possibilities. You never run out of places to shoot and explore.” He has a deep appreciation for Downtown, LA, which may be famous for a lot of things but has been overlooked for a long time. “There is a beauty to Downtown that most people in LA never see.” Notwithstanding the appreciation for LA core, he notes a downfall to living in the big as a fashion photographer: “There’s not a whole lot of fashion photography going on in LA.” While Toronto faces the dilemma of too many fashion photographers, Los Angeles is quite the opposite. “You would think that,” Michael ponders, “with all of the press and publicity that is present here, there would be more [fashion work in LA.].” He fails to understand why this is not the case. “[In addition] every LA photographer has to deal with the stigma of being an LA photographer,” he adds. A lot of people think that LA photographers are only good at commercial photography. “Like the only light we know how to set up is an Octabank.” What people fail to see is that many of the world’s best photographers live in LA. “Not just the big names,” Michael says, “ but [producers of] pictures that you have seen and would remember.”

Lack of photography work and the stigma associated with LA photographers doesn’t hinder this brilliant visionary’s love and passion for what he does. Matter of fact, photography has been the basis of many lifelong friendships he has formed over the years. And that, he says, is his most favourite part about being a photographer. Many of the people he met during his first year as a photographer, he’s still close with today. “These are the people that count. When times get tough, these are the ones that will support you, hire you, and help you.” While lifelong freindships and networking opportunities come in abundance, there is one thing encompassed in a life as a photographer that Michael’s not fond of. “My least favourite part is the inconsistency that sometimes comes with being a photographer.” There has been times where, Michael admits, he has not been able to get a break. And then there are times where he can’t get a day off. But Michael is aware that inconsistency comes with anything you choose in life and as a photographer, he has found it’s important to adjust accordingly. “Photography is a business and an art form,” he states, “If you can’t balance the two, you wont make it.” These inconsistencies aren’t enough to affect Michael or his work, which is as versatile as he himself is. “I like to mix it up with every new shoot.” That’s why you won’t find any one particular theme weaving through Michael’s work. It’s constantly evolving. “I’m […] able to adapt my style to most situations, therefore I do not define my style.” This versatility can also be seen in the vast array of creative endeavours he is involved in. “I shoot music videos, commercials, catalogue and advertising as well.” More importantly, this all-rounder visionary is a family man that just can’t get enough of photographing his beautiful children. Michael’s dexterity is also embedded in his ability to use almost all formats of photographic equipment. While he mostly uses Canon, Profoto, and strobes – all equipment that he owns – he’s comfortable with most formats. As digital photography remains to be the norm with professional photographers these days, Michael continues to have a special place for film. “I try to incorporate film into many of my digital shoots.” Digital or film, for Michael, photo shoots always with an idea or concept, an inspiration board, the right creative team and a location, to conceptualize the vision he has. “While a lot of prep work goes into doing

shoots, during the shoots I like to be more flexible capturing moments and movement, and letting things happen organically.” Rather than forced fashion poses, Michael looks for feeling and motion. He finds images that portray these two elements to be the most powerful and to have a profound impact on the viewer. Michael’s fun-loving personality and sense of humour makes models feel so comfortable and camera-friendly, he’s easily able to capture what he’s looking to shoot. “I listen to them and then make fun of them,” he jokes. For him it’s all about having fun. “[That way,] the pictures will be much better.” Of course, there’s also the need for a photographer to have technique and vision to produce good images. “I think both work hand in hand, without one the other can’t be as good as it could be.” What makes a good fashion photographer in Michael’s opinion? “It’s so subjective,” he states “It’s based on opinion and doesn’t really have anything to with fame, but just more with do I like it or not.” That’s why Michael advises aspiring photographers to stay true to themselves and be versatile. “Be yourself. Shoot good film and be consistently trying new things.” As for the best advice he, himself, has gotten as a photographer, Michael shares Playboy photographer, Steve Wayda’s words of wisdom he found whilst reading his interview in a magazine: “Hire incredible models,” he restates, “because they look good, and you get the credit. Hire assistants that know more than you, because you get the credit.” Although Michael appreciate’s Wayda’s advice, he looks for more than just talent when he employs models and members for a creative team; he looks for people that are excited and want to be there. “I like passionate people.” On another note, he does believe that hiring people that only do what you tell them are nothing more than another piece of equipment. “I like when people bring things to the table.” If you are wondering what Michael’s bringing to the table, “Stay tuned,” he says. He’s planning on shooting an Indie movie directed by Toronto’s award-winning director, Warren P. Sonoda, who also happens to be a friend of his. In the meanwhile, you can always visit Michael at his photography website MichaelLelandPhotography.com or his new full service production company website Focused-Elements.com to see what he has got going on – we are sure you won’t be disappointed!

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all happening photographer | michael leland model | amanda p. [industry models] stylist | ebony campbell makeup & hair artist| emily nickrent

Lingerie STELLA MCCARTNEY Scarf FREE PEOPLE

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lingerie CALVIN KLEIN stockings FREE PEOPLE bracelets LUCKY BRAND & VINTAGE

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lingerie STELLA MCCARTNEY scarf FREE PEOPLE

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thong ELLE MCFEARSON slip VINTAGE

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bra & panty AMERICAN APPAREL earrings ANTHROPOLOGIE

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bra & panty AMERICAN APPAREL earrings ANTHROPOLOGIE

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ayo elizabeth

OLAOGUN Jaskirat Gebi

As a young girl, Ayo Elizabeth Olaogun loved sketching, drawing and painting. Throughout high school, the artsy teenager never bought a greeting card. Rather, she always made them herself. “There had always been a zeal for arts.” Growing up in the fashion-conscious city of Lagos, Nigeria, it wasn’t long before Olaogun developed a love for everything fashion. She started her journey when she moved to Vienna 12 years ago and started modeling in 2004. Through modeling she discovered her true calling: fashion design. However, being the last child of a reputable Nigerian family and a sibling to chartered bankers and engineers, Olaogun didn’t dare express her desire to pursue fashion to her parents until after she completed her BSc in Nutritional Sciences from University of Vienna. “At that time, I thought I had to complete what I had started studying and I knew that it would please my parents.” After graduation, she became confident and found the courage to present her visions of being a fashion designer to her parents. Luckily for her, her parents reacted very well. “My parents weren’t shocked when I informed them, neither did they try to dissuade me.” With parental approval, Olaogun started her journey in fashion design in 2010 by enrolling at the prestigious University of Applied Arts in Vienna. It is during this time that Olaogun’s passion for the arts translated into wearable avant-garde. She designed her first long sleeve fitted shirt and pleated skirt. “I loved them so

much that I contacted a friend who is a photographer to take pictures wearing them.” Within a year, Olaogun was ready to present her designs to the world. In 2011, she launched her unique brand Ayo van Elmar. The uniqueness of Ayo van Elmar lies in the fact that there is no other label that cuts across cultures and continents and represents this flair so beautifully in style and design. “My design is a product of me. Ayo van Elmar, comes from my soul; from my life as a European and an African at the same time.” In Africa, Ayo van Elmar is a breath of fresh air that distinguishes itself from what is already out there. In Europe, Ayo van Elmar is Afro-centric and contemporary. “I don’t think there is any other label that incorporates Africa and the West in their designs so genuinely like I do, because it is who I am.” Each one of AvE’s designs and collections has been inspired by a struggle. “I get my inspiration from events and incidences around me.” The Boko Haram terrorist attacks in Northern Nigeria was the influence behind her latest Chakra (S/S ’13) and Magic Shields (A/W ’12) collections. “The AW collection 12/13, which was first showcased at the London Fashion Week, is a tribute to the blast victims and their families and a reminder that the voice of humanity and reason, though temporarily silenced by a storm of ignorance and violence, will eventually triumph over barbarism, a song of prayer for Nigeria.”

“Lately the messages I have given through my designs have been of freedom, peace and oneness.” The design house launched a cause this winter to clothe as many children in Africa as possible. Reaching 75 needy children in Lagos, Nigeria with new shoes and clothes for the dire winter and Christmas , the designer and brand have definitely blessed many homes. Olagun finds her purpose fulfilled when, through fashion, she puts a smile on these children’s faces and betters Africa. “I have found my joy in fashion.” AvE’s groundbreaking designs can be attributed to Olaogun’s self-driven personal style. For her it’s all about her attitude and her own very self. “There’s a lot of soul in my style.” That may be because the innovative designer doesn’t follow trends or look at what everyone is wearing. “I do my own thing, my own way - that’s the typical artistic spirit in me.” Olaogun’s fearless attitude towards her designs is what makes her stand out and is downright inspiring. “My personal style isn’t afraid and doesn’t care what people think.” Taking inspiration from renowned designers like Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford and Bernhard, Olaogun’s fashion design professor, Ayo van Elmar is driven to be cool, sleek and crazy. Turning to Vienna she wants to inspire the everyday woman to take risks and stand out. “To me, women here seem to be scared of standing out from the crowd, which is exactly what [Ayo van Elmar] is about.” Her Afrocentric clothing tries to bring bright bold colours into the monochromatic style of the Viennese woman. Describing herself as an artist, Olaogun laughs that she can live during the night as much as during the day. When an inspiration strikes the drive to bring the idea to reality is immense. “ I have a very irregular lifestyle and the kind of diligence that is unfathomable.” One cannot force work, says Olaogun, when there is no desire for it. But when she has an inspiration, her drive is immense that it does not see day or night. It is such drive that moves her through the whole design process to bring a dynamic runway show. Starting with inspiration from her many travels ,Olaogun sketches pieces for a collection. Once worked through sketching, she constructs prototypes and works through them as she reaches final pieces for a collection. Reaching for luxurious fabric with opulent colours and patterns, Olaogun finds her true pleasure of the design process. The process of guiding a collection

in the workshop is the part Olaogun dislikes which can be so strenuous. Olaogun’s designs have much work put into them as they project the designers vision. “Depending on the complexity of the design they take up to a day and a half or three days.” She explains that some designs start with a burst of motivation allowing her to speed through the process while others take time to harbor. Although seeing it come together on the runway is what brings it all together and brings the joy in her. “What I like best about designing clothes is showcasing them on the runway.” Olaogun draws the fine line of business and art in fashion at runway shows. Believing that the conceptualization of an idea, then executing it becomes a piece of clothing is the artistic part but when it hits the runway it comes down to business. “Fashion business is a tough business and it takes a lot of patience, perseverance and thorough diligence.” This aspect of business makes the fashion industry hard to break into. For aspiring designers, Olaogun says if something is worth doing then it is worth doing well. One should stick to a task and keep at it. Your career choice should have your undivided attention since special things take longer than you expect. As only having been a designer for less than 2 years, Olaogun is still working on breaking further into the industry. The exciting journey is just beginning according to her. Since it’s launch in 2010, Ayo van Elmar has already been in London Fashion Week and Vienna Fashion Week. With two pop-up stores in Vienna, designs available in showrooms and retail stores across Europe, and also just having returned from styling and designing for Nigeria’s Got Talent’s first season, Olaogun is on the right track to being at the fire front of the industry. Her future plans include being firmly integrated into Lagos, Nigeria and the United Kingdom. Clearly showing her love for fashion and her immense drive for it. Olaogun’s vision for Ayo van Elmar is for it to be a global brand that serves a charitable purpose as well as a stylish one. Ayo van Elmar can be found online at http://www. ayovanelmar.com/store. Also she can be reached over Twitter @AyoVanElmar. Keep up with Olaogun and the brand to hear news of her up coming show at London Fashion Week in September 2013 and her showroom opening in Lagos.”There is going to be a fresh breeze of story and style so get ready and be on the look out for Ayo van Elmar.”

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nicole

kawalez Possessing confidence is a difficult attitude to adapt elegantly. Either you come off as cocky, or you play it well and almost effortlessly. But, the statuesque and sultry Nicole Kawalez is confident, and she knows her look is valiant, so can be herself in front of the camera. Bright crystal brown eyes, long honey brown hair, and a strong face structure give Nicole Kawalez a unique look that takes practically nothing to highlight again and again. We look forward to witnessing her excel in the modeling industry. With her definitive beauty, we are sure it will be effortless! Have you always wanted to be a model, or did you have other careers in mind when you were younger? My mother has always worked in the fashion industry so I grew up surrounded by fashion magazines and watching Fashion Television. Modeling was always something that fascinated me and as I got older, I knew it was something I wanted to pursue. Where did you grow up and how had that affected your decision to be a model? I grew up in Cambridge, Ontario but was lucky enough to travel a lot. I used to think I would have to move in order to be a model but my agency in Kitchener, Gemini, keeps me busy with local work. It is a good balance because my Toronto agency, Sherrida, sets me up with different work that I wouldn’t have access to locally. So, it’s nice to see both worlds. How did you become a model? I posted pictures on Facebook from my first shoot and since then, I have been networking and doing shoots to build my portfolio. I was modeling on my own for about 2 years before I joined Gemini in the

summer of 2011. One of my friends was a model at Gemini. She knew I wanted to start pursuing it and told me to meet with them. I have been with them ever since! Tell us about your first photo shoot. Were you nervous? I was so excited! It was with one of my best friend’s schoolmates who was taking photography and needed a model for an assignment. I was in this old lounge chair wearing ripped jeans and a white top (supposed to be like a jeans ad). It was in a garage, in the middle of January, so I was freezing but I loved every minute of it. I felt really comfortable in front of the camera. After the photos were posted on Facebook, I got a lot of attention and started networking with photographers to built my portfolio. What was your first big break in the industry? There are many things that I am proud of, but I’d have to say being in Wedding Dreams Bridal Magazine this year was an amazing feeling. Being published is definitely something I continue to strive for as a model, not to mention have sweet tear out sheets!

Was modeling what you thought it would be? Yes, and no. There are times that it isn’t as glamourous as I thought it would be. It can be very long days waiting around for hair and make-up to be done. I also grew up thinking modelling was a full time job but in actuality, it is more of a part time career for most models, including myself - unless you are a supermodel of course. Modeling is what I thought it would be in the sense that I want to continue to grow and better myself. It’s a very competitive industry. Modelling is something that gives me confidence and I’ll always be happy I decided to pursue it.

grow them in. That definitely helped me get noticed and give me a more fashion-oriented look.

What do you feel is the most exciting part about being a model? The most exciting part would be getting to play a role. Modeling is like acting in a way that regardless whether you are on a runway or in a shoot you are portraying a character and a feeling to the audience. Getting dressed up and having fun hair and make-up is also a plus!

How do you brand yourself as model? Commercial and Fashion. I get casted for commercial jobs because of my smile but with my bold brows and sharp jawline, I also suit fashion modelling. It shows in my personal style too, I tend to dress feminine but edgy. One of my favourite pieces is my cropped black leather biker jacket.

What inspires you as a model? What inspires me is creativity. I love talking with photographers thinking of a creative shoot concept. Fashion also inspires me, I love watching fashion shows of the new upcoming fashion trends. Since I was a young girl, I have collected fashion ads from magazines. Some of them are so beautifully done and creative. Which models do you look up to and why? Aside from the many amazing Victoria Secret Angels, I really look up to Candice Swanepoel. I think she is extremely talented but, more importantly, I admire that her body looks healthy and extremely fit. It’s tough because over the years I’ve had so many favourites. One that I will always admire is Kate Moss. She really changed the industry having a ‘boyish body’ and a 5’6” frame. Modelling is a competitive, tough industry as is, so her being able to have as much success as she has, deserves admiration. What would you say is your best feature? I would say my best feature is my smile (getting braces in grade 6 helped). I get a lot of compliments on my teeth and my smile. Second to that, I would say my eyebrows. I used to get my eyebrows waxed and threaded but when I started modeling, I knew I had to

Other than having a great look, what else do you think has been crucial to your success as a model? I would say my determination and surrounding myself with supportive people. Gemini is like one big family and they are always supportive. This might sounds silly but being polite and easy to work with helped as well. No one wants to hire or work with a premadonna.

Besides being a model, what else are you working on? I studied Contemporary Studies in University and also took a post grad in Public Relations. I am currently working as a cosmetic manager and want to work for a head office department in the PR or sales department. What is one misconception people have about you as a model? People tend to think everything comes easy and that I don’t worry about my body or my look but the truth is I work hard to keep my body and am always striving to improve. I eat healthy and take care of my skin and hair. I still have moments when I feel self conscious like everyone else. Any words of advice for a young lady who aspires to be a model? Stay true to yourself and learn to take criticism. Some agencies will see your differences as flaws and some will see it as perfection. It’s all about finding the right fit and surrounding yourself with supportive people. Make sure you are with a reputable agency and if you are ever shooting with a photographer you don’t know, bring a friend or travel with a make-up artist. Studying helps; watch fashion shows, look at ads and take note of their expressions and posture.

magma photographer | brogan mcnab models | nicole kawalez & francesca venuto stylists | dominika dauksza & georgia mcnab makeup artists | kayla gilkinson & margaret mcintosh

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xavier

nicholas photographer | xavier ness model | holy bayless

When Xavier Nicholas was a child, he would draw pictures of mermaids in crab-like brassieres and six-tier wedding cakes garnished with daisies and swirls. Xavier feels beauty in everything; friendship, love, family, travel, and education. In junior high, he realized fashion was his calling and began designing forty piece â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Haute Coutureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; collections inspired by controversial subjects, such as heroine addicted prostitutes and bulimic women. Always minimal and constructively detailed, he never felt like his drawings were any good. His obsession with symmetry led him to be a manic perfectionist, which he sometimes finds, endangers his work. Currently in high school, this Seattle-based creative genius illustrates and photographs in pursuit of feminine beauty, elegance and vulnerability that characterizes his work.

instantaneity

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sequence of emerald

gentle constraint

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raconteuse

astronomically induced

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sans titre

verge of discipline

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peggy

lee

photographer | polkliang.wix.com/xxxxxx model | monica wang makeup artist| peggy lee hairstylist | ronnie lam

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Just like every woman, Peggy Lee always visualized how she could make herself more beautiful and better communicate who she truly was through the art of makeup. “I just wanted to make myself prettier.” Gradually, however, this vision sparked a passion and a recurring dream seven years ago. “I dreamed of having magic hands to transform every [woman] into a beauty.” With beauty as a motivator to learn and improve her makeup skills, Peggy started to take professional makeup classes. “I feel so lucky, because I made the right choice at that time.” While she does not believe that there is a royal way learning makeup techniques, she soon realized that the only way to be a professional was to learn from a professional makeup artist. A strong believer in beauty being in the eye of the beholder, Peggy wanted to know the skills and knowledge that will help her become the makeup artist everyone goes to no matter what type of beauty they were aiming for. Peggy admits that it took her a while to adjust herself to this ideology but once she began learning makeup techniques, she managed to do so successfully with a lot of practice. As a makeup artist, Peggy is most excited about providing bridal services at different wedding venues and meeting different brides-to-be. “[It has really been] an eye opener for me in my career.” Why you may ask? Well because most of Peggy’s inspirations come from her clients. “Their feedback, comments and satisfaction not only inspires me, but also encourages me to go forward.” Peggy has found success in providing bridal makeup services but it’s not without a lot hard work and determination. “The only drawback of this job is that I have to leave for the bride’s house very early in the morning, such as 4 a.m.” However, that doesn’t stop her from doing her best on the job. She focuses on the positive side of being a makeup artist. “The compliments and referrals [I receive] are the most powerful propulsion to push me forward.” Matter of fact, she sees these compliments as an achievement. “After I get compliments from my clients, everything pays off.” While Peggy currently focuses on bridal hair and makeup, she is no veteran to Beauty and Fashion makeup. Matter of fact, she has been working as a makeup artist for five years now and has accumulated multicultural experience by working on photo shoots, both in Canada and Taiwan. It is the multicultural aspect of Toronto where people are from all walks of life and different countries that at

tracts Peggy to the city as an artist. “[It] is a very good place for me to meet talented individuals, get different magazines and information about fashion, improve myself and learn something new which will help me a lot in doing makeup.” Peggy is also passionate about striking up friendship with people in other fields. “No one can be an island nowadays.” Toronto has been a place that has allowed her to team up with others in the makeup and fashion industry. It has also been the place that has challenged her to step out of her comfort zone and do makeup on models of Caucasian descent. “The silhouette of their faces is quite different from that of Asians.” As a makeup artist, Peggy is constantly seeking out new challenges and sources of inspiration. While there’s not one particular celebrity that stimulates her creative senses, Peggy really looks to the celebrity world for makeup inspiration. “They always lead the fashion.” She’s extremely impressed by Anna Sui’s ad campaigns which never cease to inspire her. She also regularly refers to websites and fashion magazines to get inspirations for makeup looks. However, she makes sure the team she is working with – whether it’s a creative or a bride-tobe – has the same vision as her. Before finalizing a look, she discusses the style of the makeup with her clients to make sure thata degree of creative freedom is present for everyone involved. Peggy is a big admirer of Bobbi Brown, not only for her makeup and business skills but also for the success she has attained with Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. “[Their products] are very good for a professional, flawless finish.” She is frequently on a look out for new Bobbi Brown products to add to her own professional makeup kit. But when asked about makeup items that should be in every woman’s daily makeup bag, Peggy propagates eyeliner to the core. “[It] can definitely make [a woman’s] eyes more attractive and appealing.” She loves to focus on eyes and that’s why her most vital tool for a photo shoot is artificial eyelashes. “I always use different kinds of fake eyelashes to enhance the look on the face.” Of course, there’s also good basic coverage for a clean look, which she believes is essential for any makeup job . With all the essentials - extraordinary skills, a vision for beauty and a passion for her trade- Peggy has been on our radar for quite a while. We just can’t wait to see this bridal makeup artist take a step further and make big in the fashion industry, locally and internationally.

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