Fashion Shift Magazine UNSPOKEN 2019 by Fashion Shift Magazine

in touch with nature

Photographer: Elena Rykova Model // Makeup & Hair: Yana Shumaeva

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FASHION

FASHION SHIFT MAGAZINE 5

IN 46

104

THIS ISSUE

Magdalena Bieth: Publisher, Editor-in-Chief & Fashion Photographer | Carmen Obied: Features Editor, Professional Model & Creative Writer | Printed by GG Designs www.ggdesigns.co.uk | Facebook @fashionshiftmagazine | Instagram @fshiftmagazine Twitter @fshiftmagazine | Website www.fashionshiftmagazine.com | Email: info@fashionshiftmagazine.com Advertise your business/services with us: info@fashionshiftmagazine.com | Location: United Kingdom

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IN TOUCH WITH NATURE

LÃ&#x201A; C HER P RISE

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Lâcher Prise „First you do good, feel good, then look good“

Liberation achieved by detaching from the desire to control

Lâcher Prise, the ethical and holistic brand from New York City was founded in 2016 and has since developed design techniques that do not only liberate, but motivate to be creative and become a part of a movement. The ‘liberte’ design was Marine Delmau’s first idea, sketch and final product. Working with modal fabrics was the perfect opportunity: incorporating the softness of the material, along with its sustainable background into the gender-fluid, comfortable and stylish design of the brand and the ‚all in one‘-piece was created. It fits different occasions and looks; it can be draped in different ways, which makes it an incredibly versatile product - and sustainable, simply by allowing multiple looks. Once the ‚liberte‘-design was perfected, the designer created more and more pieces that were inspired by the same vision. Finally, the brand’s first collection was born.

The pieces varied in style and were all adapted to be without any gender norms to fit the brand’s vision of freedom, simplicity, comfort and style. This is exactly what Lâcher Prise Apparel is about: expressing who we truly are, exploring the unknown and living without the restriction of gender norms. The brand aims to create timeless pieces that are sustainable and made in New York City; inspired by the urban environment, the uniqueness of the city and its people, and the desire to leave a positive footprint behind. The next collection for Spring/ Summer 2019 was shown during New York and Paris Fashion Week and is called ‚Terre de Feu‘, which means ‘Earth of Fire’. This strongly relates to the inspiration the designer took from natural elements when creating this collection.

The pieces are made of organic and lightweight materials such as cotton/tencel blends from Japan, micromodal and fabrics that have worked well in the previous collection, too. In the new collection, ‚blue signed‘ approved fabrics such as sheer, lace and polyester were introduced, to create a larger variety of looks and feels to resemble the variety of elements that were the inspiration for the collection in the first place. Another focus was increasing the variety of the looks too, while staying true to the core values of the brand: simplicity, sustainability and adaptability - while being modern and unisex and constantly bringing the feeling of freedom and comfort to whoever wears a Lâcher Prise piece. The new collection will be shown in September and consists of 20 pieces.

Lâcher Prise is a feeling and a philosophy - much more than a clothing line. By asking whoever owns a piece of Lâcher Prise Apparel to become part of the design process is a daring gesture - and yet something the fashion industry hasn’t considered before. By leaving the function of the piece up to the owner, Lâcher Prise involves the person wearing her pieces into the design process, which is a completely new approach. Allowing pieces to have more than one way of wearing them enables everyone to express what they feel, see, even believe through a single piece of clothing. This way pants become jumpsuits, belts become scarves, tops become dresses - and draping enhances and changes the looks once again. Dressing without boundaries has always been one of the things Delmau wanted to focus on. Since this has always been a crucial part of her own life - being able to create designs according to this philosophy was a dream come true and motivated her to work on even more areas she was passionate about. This is why Lâcher Prise exclusively uses sustainable, eco-friendly materials which include Modal, tencel, and botanic fibers. Some of these are the softest on the market and are made with

environmentally friendly techniques, using parts of the beech-wood trees without leaving any waste behind. For the future, Delmau wants to focus on developing her own fabrics and practices, such as recycling poly or nylon and working with sustainable silk and organic cotton for further collections. „First you do good, feel good, then look good“ The positive, spiritual message behind the brand is representing beauty while simultaneously bringing a new side to fashion: comfort and confidence are just as essential to good design as the aesthetics of it. And Delmau firmly believes that feeling good comes from within, and that a piece of fashion is only a catalyst for this feeling and not the reason. Humankind has always been an inspiration to the desiger; conversations and interactions lead to creativity and motivation to translate those into a design, as well as the many impressions the designer was able to collect during her travels beyond her own culture - and falling in love with nature all over again. Perspective on the fashion market with the growing demand of sustainable fashion and lifestyle products, Lâcher Prise Apparel is part of a conscious movement. Never before have there been as many apps, websites and also designers that are contributing to this field and

with limited natural resources, creators in the field have to find different ways of producing and use different fabrics than they might have done before. With this in mind, Delmau wants to utilise techniques and measures in order to develop intricate and creative fabrics and fibers that do not leave a similar footprint as conventional materials do. This change in the industry is also visible within the label’s choice of retail concept: By selling mostly online in the brand’s own online shop and websites such as luv.it, which exclusively sells sustainable and emerging designers. Furthermore, Lâcher Prise Apparel is part of ‚Flying Solo‘, a design and retail collaborative in Soho, New York. As similar retail concepts pop up around the world and become increasingly popular, the entire industry seems to go through a shift. Consumers question supply chains and demand better working condition for the people producing the garments, while local designers and production sites become more accessible, feasible and successful. This is one of the many hopes and visions Marine Delmau has for the future: A more open-minded fashion industry that leaves room for growth for young and emerging designers and works as a platform to exchange ideas, visions and inspirations - be it for brands themselves, as well as for the retail space and for the press.

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Sweater and Skirt: H&M Boots: Blundstone

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Seaside Stroll Photographer // Stephanie Lane www.stephanielanephotography.ca Model // Sarah Peddle

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Jacket, sweater & skirt: H&M Boots: Blundstone

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Jacket: Zara Sweater: H&M Jeans: Fashion Nova Boots: Hunter

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Sweater and Skirt: H&M Boots: Blundstone

IRISHLATINA

| NO NEW WASTE

FShift This LAFW season, you showcased a unique production

with models in rainbow sequence and a pole dancer in the middle of the runway, while promoting ‘Zero Waste’ with every step. What was the inspiration behind the collection and show? What was your experience like?

Irishlatina Well, I never say that I promote “Zero Waste”,

because I think it’s misleading. It’s impossible to make no waste at all. But I do say that I promote “sustainability”, which is about maintaining a balance. Since I make new things from discarded things, it helps to maintain that balance. And I love rainbows! I have since I was a little girl. It’s difficult not to feel happy while looking at a rainbow. During my design process, I started creating a few monochromatic looks, so I decided to do one look in each color to create my rainbow. As for the fabulous pole dancer, Laura Johnson, she starred in my most recent lookbook video. I love working with dancers, and I love putting a spin on the traditional runway setting, so I asked her to dance in the middle of the runway. It worked out beautifully! And viewing a pole dancer on the runway, inside the Petersen Automotive Museum, was an awesome sight to see.

FShift How did you get drawn into the fashion world? Can you tell us a bit about the origin of your label and its link to your cultural background? Irishlatina I grew up singing, dancing, and acting, so I was

drawn to the performance aspect of fashion, as well as the costume aspect of it. I earned my degree in Costume Design for the Theatre before moving to New York to study fashion. I love the wild fantasy of the theatre, but I was drawn to the freedom in fashion, and the ability to create a brand. My ethnicity is 1⁄2 Irish, 1⁄2 Mexican. In college, my first email address was “adamslatina”, in reference to my boyfriend at the time. After the relationship ended, my best friend came up with “IRISHLATINA”. It quickly became my identification, my nickname, my avatar... And the brand built from there. I like to say IRISHLATINA is a mix of cultures and coasts (east and west).

FShift Your collection is bold and playful, with strong state-

ment-making sustainable designs. Who is your main audience?

Irishlatina Irishlatina is definitely for the bold, and boldness

comes in all ages and sexes, shapes and sizes. Although it’s important to identify your customer, I hate to box in my brand. The idea of a man wearing my Confetti Coats, or a woman over 60 wearing my boxy overalls, makes me SO happy.

FShift Being that your designs tend to be comprised of recycled and second-hand mediums for your designs, where do you like to source your materials from?

Irishlatina I source my materials from secondhand thrift shops and warehouses. All materials are washed, cut, and treated just like new fabric. My most recent collection was all made from secondhand t-shirts. FShift What are some of the challenges you have faced when creating sustainable fashion?

Irishlatina I honestly haven’t noticed the difference. Challenges are challenges. They were there before, and they’ll continue to be there. And if you believe in what you’re doing, then it’s worth it.

FShift What would you advise shoppers/consumers to do to shop more consciously (yet affordably) with the idea of zero waste in mind?

Irishlatina I think it all starts with educating yourself. List your top 5 favorite brands and do some research. Find out where they manufacture, and how they do it. What materials do they use? How do they treat their employees? You may find that that information isn’t available, so ask them. Consumers have to demand transparency from the companies they love, and then they can make an educated decision as to where they spend their money. The consumer holds all the power, and the power is in their wallet.

FShift What are some of your favourite eco-friendly brands that you support?

Irishlatina I’m pretty obsessed with Bode (menswear) and Carleen (womenswear). Both brands make beautiful clothing from vintage quilts. If you’re looking for basics, checkout Everybody World which has a transparent manufacturing process in downtown LA. They’re also the creators of the Trash Tee, made from 100% recycled cotton. They’re a dope company! Highly recommend. FShift What exciting projects do you have coming up that we should look out for? Irishlatina We just launched a feature called Afterpay. It

enables you to purchase items from our shop by splitting up the total into 4 equal payments. You get the item right away, and then pay the remainder in installments with no interest. It’s a great feature for those who say they’d love to purchase something, but don’t have the money right now. I realize I’m asking my customers to pay more than they would at a fast fashion retailer, but they are paying for quality, uniqueness, supporting a female owned business, and they are helping to improve the fashion industry by purchasing from a sustainable company. Also, I’m on a mission to build a giant panda from secondhand t-shirts, so stay tuned for that one!

Photographer: Thea Zang | LAFW SS19

G R O is in the heart O V E fashion shift magazine | unspoken

Photographer: Susann Loessin www.susann-loessin.de Makeup Artist: Angelique Waltenberg Model: Sylvana Hesse

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BEAUTY

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder Eyes: Kryolan Aquacolor 081 + Kryolan Aquacolor Interferenz Copper G Temples: Kryolan Aquacolor UV Dayglow UV-Pink+ Kryolan Aquacolor 081 + Kryolan Aquacolor Interferenz Copper G + Kryolan Aquacolor 070 Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork

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Shoes: Zara Wardrobe @studio_VERBA

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unspoken unspoken Photographer // Anna Gorodnitskaya Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist // Ekaterina Stadnikova-luzina Wardrobe Stylist // Rysmaganbetova Liliia Model // Lena Chinkova

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Wardrobe @studio_VERBA Accessories @jewel4you Shoes: Zara

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Wardrobe @studio_VERBA

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VICKEN DERDERIAN SS19

Nomadic dialogues between fashion + architecture

Fshift You recently showcased your latest SS19 collection during an independent show. What is the name of your latest collection and what inspired it? VD On September 29th we at Vicken Derderian showed

our 2019 Spring/Summer collection in Los Angeles. The collection blends our nomadic lifestyle of the past few years coupled with a modern street style and signature architectural esthetic. The collection is inspired by the colors and textures of Lake Sevan and our travels between Los Angeles, Seoul, and Yerevan.

Fshift As nomadic designers, you and Kyung spend your time in Armenia, Los Angeles, and South Korea sourcing material. Can you tell us more about how your collection draws inspiration and influences from cultural characteristics of your homelands? VD I feel that we really tend to draw inspiration from

the colors, textures, and experiences of place when we are travelling, when we design; we then try and blend these with an idea that may not directly relate to those experiences. Ultimately, we are constantly trying to not design/work in a linear way, thus challenging the obvious, so that the work stays fresh and relevant.

Fshift What types of materials do you enjoy working

with? Which mediums would you like to experiment with next?

VD The fabrics and yarns used throughout the collections predominantly consist of natural fibers, and each type is chosen for its structural and textural quality.

This allows us to dial in the specific qualities of cut, form, feel, and the movement from the garment. We are always open to new materials, natural and synthetic; ultimately it depends on the ideas we are exploring/developing at the time. We are very much interested in and in the process of growing relationships with ethical/sustainable fabric producers that treat their staff ethically and the less negative impact that we have on the environment the better it is for all of us.

Fshift What audience do you have in mind when you are creating your designs?

VD We design for a confidant woman who is interested in design that wants to wear something that challenges the linear norm. Both Kyung and I work toward a collection that can be appealing and beautiful for women to wear.

Fshift Which artists or designers have inspired your style and ideas?

VD We are inspired by many artists and designers such as

Renoir, Duchamp, Kurt Schwitters, Alberto Giacometti, and Cy Twombly. We are interested in the expression of the idea and the dynamics of the work. Also, the dialogue between the work, its current environment and the viewer. Coming into fashion from architecture I tend to not be interested in a direct one to one reference of the things that inspire me, I tend to look deeper for a thread of ideas that make up a body of an artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work that align with what we are exploring within the studio.

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Fshift How do you bridge between architecture and fashion through your designs? VD Starting as an architect my interests have always revolved around built and unbuilt space and the

place, construction, and experience of the environments that we live in. As an extension to that I see what we do as a multidisciplinary design studio is to explore and develop a body of work to understand the dialogue between the body/ wearer and the environment, meaning built or unbuilt space and the viewer. So as in Architecture, the body/client is our site whose topography we can build upon creating a dialogue with the environment in which they exist.

Fshift What exciting projects or collaborations are you looking forward to next?

VD We are currently working on our next collection and placing our garments into select stores in Europe. Also, we are starting to work with some of the design schools in Armenia to give back to the design community there.

Photography by Hatnim Lee and Enrique Bautista

P PretendingToBe...

PHOTOGRAPHER/RETOUCHER/WARDROBE STYLIST/CREATIVE DIRECTOR:

SVETLANA BORISOVA

MAKEUP ARTIST/HAIR STYLIST: ANNA KOMAROVSKAYA

& TATIANA GARBUZOVA

MODEL: RUSSIAN HUNTING SIGHTHOUND: BITUSHA ASSISTANT: ANASTASIIA MUROVANNAIA MODEL: LERA VAIS @MODELS TIME ASSISTANT: DARIA KIM

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Dress: POLUNINA Belt: vintage Shoes: No 21 Socks: OYSHO Earrings: Lady Collection

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Dress: MSGM Gloves: Marmalato Bag: Karl Lagerfeld Boots: stradivarius

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SoPink

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Photographer || Olga Demkova Makeup Artist || Chernichko Valentina Model || Lolya @ra-fashion

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BEAUTY

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Winter In Miami Photographer // MARIA KOMAROVA www.marykomarovaphotography.com Model // LOLA CHÃ&#x2030;L Makeup Artist // KATERINA KABAEVA

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EDITORIAL Tropical Co-Ord: Noir By Naomi Watch: Jord

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Red Co-Ord: Ava Giselle Collection Trousers: SheIn Top: Hot Miami Styles Cuffs: EdgeLook

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Gold Rush Photographer & Creative Director // EWKA GRACZ Makeup Artist // ALEKSANDRA GŁUCH Retoucher // MAREK GRACZ Model // NATALIA KARPOWICZ @Rebel Models Hair Stylist // AGNIESZKA GAJDA-JUZAK

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ART Illustrations By Digital Fashion Artist Olga Goloborodko @ollisgo_art

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ARTWORK

EDITORIAL

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WV white vision

Photographer: Katarzyna Staniorowska Model: Justyna Uboska @Como Model Management Fashion Designer: Judyta Rybka Makeup Artist: Klara Margas

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EDITORIAL

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EDITORIAL

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Photographer // Ken Lim & Mandarin Ng Creative Director // Kent Sim Wardrobe // VR Couture by KentSim Makeup & Hair Stylist // Kent Sim Assistant // Rei Rei Model // Xue Ting Johor Bahru // Malaysia

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Chandelier Chandelier PHOTOGRAPHER ||Â Ada Ocean STYLIST || Makeup Artist || Hair Stylist || Tonya Yablokova MODEL || Tanya Shian

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EDITORIAL

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SailAway SAIL AWAY PHOTOGRAPHER // TAYLOR JARVIS MODEL // LORENA ENI DESIGNER // ALENA FEDE JEWELLERY DESIGNER // BETTY HOLLAND

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ESTACION DE COCHES PHOTOGRAPHY: JO HERRERA / @JO.HERRERA MODEL: ELÍAS TORRES / @ELIAS.TORRES9 BY @ARMODELSAGENCY STYLIST: ARIEL RAMÍREZ GIMÉNEZ / @ARINFLUENCERGROUP

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Cemetery of time Photographer: Balint Nemes Model: Dominika Gucka

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Bot Photographer // Isabel Andreu www.isabelandreu.wixsite.com/isabelandreu Model // Laura MartĂn Tristan Makeup Artist // Alicia Iglesias Wardrobe Stylist // Helen Arthurs

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Tracksuit: Adidas Jewellery: Lheureux Jewels

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Stardust

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Photographer: Adrianna Sołtys www.asoltys.com Makeup Artist: Natalia Gicala Model: Julia ŚLósarczyk

FASHION Quay sunglasses Canela top Zeelas skirt

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Rainbows of San Antonio Photographer || Christopher Cantoya Wardrobe Stylist || Grizelda Garza Hair Stylist || Dominic Alonzo Makeup Artist || Zachry Smith Model || Ashton Mcdaniel

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SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS

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Texas

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FASHION Juicy Couture jacket Zeelas top and pants Vans Sneakers

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OMENS. PARIS

CHARLOTTE

Photographer: Christina V Henningstad www.henningstad.net Model: Charlotte Vallin Wardrobe Stylist: Daniela Mvan Art Director: Anna Boudy Makeup Artist & Hair Stylist: Serguei Chatel

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PARIS

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Dress: AQUA Jacket: Conally Mcdougall Head piece: Decollete Necklace, House of DIV, Enchanted Caftans Collection Rings: Melis Goral Earrings: Mi+La

Soul Rebels Photographer: Constantin Slotty Male Model: Dorian Hartlaub @Eastwestmodels Wa r d r o b e S t y l i s t : L a l a I s z a r d Model: Bernadette Freund Makeup Artist: Anika Smith

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Frankfurt

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