FASHIZBLACK M A G A Z I N E
TRENDS ZOOM ON RETRO
BEAUTY
EVERYBODY AT THE NAILS BAR!
INTERVIEW LAQUAN SMITH
Bye Bye 2010 !
FOCUS
FASHION WEEK PAYS TRIBUTE TO YSL
SHOPPING
HOLIDAYS LOOKS FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE #MARS/AVR 2010
FASHIZBLACKA FASHIZBLACKA FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE #NOV-DEC 2010
FASHIZ’RUNWAY : Best Of Fashi
KIRETTE COUTURE
hion Week Spring-Summer 2011 Best Of Fashion Week SpringSummer 2011 September and October witnessed the biggest fantasies but also the lacks of designers’ creativity around the world. New York, London, Milan and Paris have been taken over by the fashion microcosm. Zoom on the redaction’s favourite silhouettes.
SUMMARY Page 8 Page 12 Page 14 Page 16 Page 18 Page 20 Page 22 Page 24 Page 26 Page 44 Page 46 Page 48 Page 52 Page 54 Page 56 Page 58 Page 76 Page 88 Page 97 Page 112
EDITO FASHIZ’ACCESS’: 14 clutch bags from 30 to 300 euros FASHIZ’TRENDS : Rockabilly spirit FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Crepe is chic FASHIZ’TRENDS : Penny Loafer FASHIZ’TRENDS : The men vest FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Geek stuff for him (& her) FASHIZ’TRENDS : Animalistic Elegance EDITORIAL : CITYSCAPE FASHIZ’TRENDS : Get the cape ! FASHIZ’WISHLIST : How to wear the long skirt this winter? FASHIZ’TRENDS : 5 coats for winter GIVEAWAY : FASHIZBLACK x MAKE UP FOREVER FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Special Holidays (for her) FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Special Holidays (for him) EDITORIAL : All I want is YOU ! FASHIZ’FOCUS : RETRO(spective) EDITORIAL : Sewn from the Soul FASHIZ’FOCUS : This Year’s Revelations FASHIZ’TRENDS : 5 Major fashion trends for men in 2010
Page 116 Page 119 Page 122 Page 124 Page 126 Page 140 Page 146 Page 150 Page 157 Page 162 page 168 Page 172 Page 174 Page 176 Page 184 Page 188 Page 190
FASHIZ’TRENDS : The 5 major 2010 trends FASHIZ’ZOOM : The Hot and Mess during fashion week FASHIZ’MODEL : David Agbodji FASHIZ’MODEL : Kelly Moreira EDITORIAL : The Winter Show INTERVIEW : Laquan Smith : «l’enfant terrible» of the Queens FASHIZ’FOCUS : The spectrum of Yves Saint Laurent floats across the season ... HOTSPOT : The thomas-nelson gallery EDITORIAL : Retro Beauty FASHIZ’BEAUTY : Dany Sanz tells us about the Moulin Rouge collection FASHIZ’BEAUTY : Advice from professionals on how to make your nail polish last longer FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Winter’s essentials FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Skin under the cold FASHIZ’MUSIC : Interview with avec La Louve FASHIZ’MUSIC : Tops & flops of 2010 CULTURAL SCHEDULE ADDRESS BOOK
Editorial Director Paola-Audrey Ndengue Fashion Editor-in-chief Raissa Tchoulague Fashion Editors F.R, Paul-Arthur J-M, Stella Mpoy Culture Editors Damien ÂŤKeyzzÂť Ribeiro Beauty Editors Love Voundi & Sam Translators Kim-Kevin Ninkuru (Main translator), Selina Cooper Production Paola-Audrey Ndengue & Laura Eboa Songue Communication & marketing Laura Eboa Songue Webmastering & graphism Patrick Privat
«We would like to thank Fanny Rabasse and Mélanie Moya (Moulin Rouge, Paris), and also the MAKE-UP FOREVER team for their collaboration and availability»
EDITOR’S NOTE
Party looks ( p.54 ), major fashion trends ( p.112 ), 2010’ s revelations (p.97); this Fashizblack issue is definitely a fashionable way to say goodbye. And whether you like it or not, the time for assessment has come. The question is pretty simple : was 2010 a good year ? Regarding this long way to the top that Afro Fashion development is, we have to say YES . Africa became a reality in our wardrobe ( p.116 ), thanks to SUNO, Jewel By Lisa or Boxing Kitten’s incredible successes, among other things. No need to mention David Agbodji (p.112) and Joan Smalls being seen everywhere, although there’s still a long way to go. Despite an exceptionally-high number of them on the runway during the latest New York fashion week , black models were - on a general aspect - still insivible. 2010 was a year full of polemics too, in particular when Claudia Schiffer was portrayed as a black woman by Karl Lagerfeld, when Daria Werbowy was shot in a slaveship-like ambiance for Interview Magazine or lately, when Jean-Paul Guerlain ( heir of the famous eponym fragrance brand ) spoke about «niggers». This year, controversies exacerbated the blatant sensitivity of the racial question and the lack of diversity in the fashion world . But in spite of these issues, we are already all eyes on 2011, which should be a year of challenges. Ethiopia, Mozambique, Germany or Canada brought their contribution to the extension of « ethnic « fashion, allowing us to look further. And by the way, here is another project to undertake : re-think the definition of the «Ethnic» term . More than a semantic consideration, it might be the right moment to be done with the Afro Style usual clichés. We have to find ( if not, to reveal ) a both proud and coherent identity to go along with its time. Here is a path of CHANGE we took since we started, and as you may guess, we’re not likely to stop now. With many weeks in advance, we wish you a 2011 year better than the previous one.
P.A.N
FASH
HION
Fashiz’
Access’
14 CLUTCH BAGS FROM 30 TO 300 EUROS by F.R
O you.
ne can hardly imagine an evening without it on their arms: here is a selection that should satisfy
1. APRIL FIRST - 170 EUROS 2. ACCESSORIZE - 35 EUROS 3. ASOS - 34 EUROS 4. BOOHOO - 18 EUROS 5. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG - 300 EUROS 6. DOROTHY PERKINS - 25 EUROS 7. FRENCH CONNECTION - 65 EUROS 8. MANGO- 55 EUROS 9. MARC BY MARC JACOBS - 170 EUROS 10. KAREN MILLEN - 120 EUROS 11. NEWLOOK - 20 EUROS 12. NINE WEST - 45 EUROS 13. ZARA - 50 EUROS 14. SEE BY CHLOE - 225 EUROS
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Fashiz’
Trends ROCKABILLY SPIRIT by Stella-Tshika Mpoy
T
ruth is we’re far from being done with the 50’s fashion. After visiting the retro preppy aspect of that holy decade (that aspect being somehow close to what our grandma wears), now it’s time to explore possibilities that are more “rock-a-billy”. Mix between preppy and rock, rockabilly’s 2010 version takes us back in the 50’s Memphis with calf-high rolled up jeans showing white socks and thick sole shoes. The bolo tie (olso known as cowboys’ tie) on a rumbled shirt and ankle pants spice up this retro look. Colour-wise, don’t be afraid to mix dark with touches of bright shades (like red or purple); a colourful checked shirt is never too much. And for those who are still not convinced by the charm potential of a rockabilly look, here is a pieces’ selection that will make you fall head over heels for that look.
1. ALL SAINTS - 295 EUROS 2. BOLO TIE MADEINCALIFORNIA - 20 EUROS 3. KIABI - 9,99 EUROS 4. BOTTEGA VENETA 5. DELUXE 6. CHEAP MONDAY - 70 EUROS 7. FRENCH CONNECTION - 90 EUROS 8. LEVI’S SHERPA JACKET - 145 EUROS
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9. JAPAN RAGS - 79 EUROS 10. LEE SHAQUILLE - 185 EUROS 11. IZAC - 39 EUROS 12. ZARA - 49.95 EUROS 13. PULL & BEAR - 69.99 EUROS 14. PIERRE HARDY CREEPERS - 295 EUROS 15. TIMBERLAND EARTHKEEPERS -185 EUROS
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
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Fashiz’
Wishlist CREPE IS CHIC by F.R
S
een at the CHLOE show, the crepe sole is ideal for surveying the atmosphere in height without pain!
1. ASOS - 65 EUROS 2. COSMO - 160 EUROS 3. CHLOE 4. ANDRE - 65 EUROS 5. FORNARINA - 200 EUROS 6. MAJE - 200 EUROS 7. DIESEL - 200 EUROS 8. GALERIES LAFAYETTE - 150 EUROS 9. MANGO - 80 EUROS 10. MARC BY MARC JACOBS - 295 EUROS
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Fashiz’
Trends PENNY LOAFER by Stella-Tshika Mpoy
M
ore chic than sneakers and less rough than a pair of boots, the Penny Loafer is now more than ever an indispensable for the retro-modern look. A little obsolete, its retro design is much appreciated and can be flawlessly paired with a casual look. When they’re worn with rolled up jeans (which is the best way to wear them), loafers give the silhouette a timeless and secure cool attitude. During the summer, they look better without socks but in the winter, nice socks (preferably made with lisle thread or popping colours) are a must. Caution not to fall in the preppy look. The most important is to wear the loafers very casually to make sure you keep their modern classicism and retro-bourgeois look.
1. APC - 340 EUROS 2. MR HARE - 490 EUROS 3. DIOR HOMME - Price not disclosed 4. RAPARO - 370 EUROS 5. FRENCH CONNECTION - 110 EUROS 6. ZARA - 79,95 EUROS 7. GUCCI - 550 EUROS 8. POINTER TANJU CHERRY - 130 EUROS
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Fashiz’
Trends THE MEN VEST by Stella-Tshika Mpoy
L
et’s be honest here, 2010 winter gives its colour back to the vest. While vests are manly and savage at D&G, they’re more noble and classy at John Galliano. Fur, leather or velvet, it doesn’t matter, the vest plays with its chameleon aspect to the point where it’s mistaken as a life jacket at Comme des Garcons because of the presence of buckles. However, it’s not forbidden to wear it the Sartorial way. In a 3 pieces suit or the Savile Row way, a vest is never too much; you just have to choose it well adjusted to get the best out of it.
1. ASOS - 30 EUROS 2. VIKTOR & ROLF 3. JOHN GALLIANO 4. ASOS - 25 EUROS 5. USHER 6. BAND OF OUTSIDERS 7. GARBSTORE - Price not disclosed 8. BILLY REID
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WISHLIST
Fashiz’
Wishlist
GEEK STUFF FOR HIM (& HER) by Stella-Tshika Mpoy
1. THINK GEEK - 5 EUROS 2. G-SHOCK X TAKASHI MURAKAMI - Price on demand 3. BRACELET DENISE JULIA REYTAN - 205 EUROS 4. OMOGRAPHY LUBITEL 166 - 300 EUROS 5. JABRA - 110 EUROS 6. PENTAX MANOBLOCK - Price not disclosed 7. KOMONO EINSTEIN ROYAL - 35 EUROS 8. LAZY OAF - 28 EUROS 9. XTREME MAC CHARGEUR DUO IPHONE IPAD- 50 EUROS 10. MIMOCO CLE USB - 60 EUROS 11. MEDICOM BEARBRICK ENCEINTES - Price not disclosed
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Fashiz’
Trends ANIMALISTIC ELEGANCE
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by F.R.
mong fashion authorities, leopard print does not have the greatest reputation. It is even considered trashy in the eyes of some. But this year, leopard prints will be worn by the most informed fashionista. Praised by the Dolce & Gabbana duo, it is paired with lace to achieve the silhouette of a fatale feline. At Dries Van Noten, it is carried by small strokes and associated with its best ally: black, for a casual look. If more fashionistas among you dare, pair the leopard Etro pants with a grey sweatshirt. The less shy should dare the colored print Leopard seen at Mulberry.
1. DOLCE & GABBANA 2. H&M - 30 EUROS 3. DRIES VAN NOTEN 4. H&M - 20 EUROS 5. ETRO 6. NEW LOOK - 20 EUROS 7. DOROTHY PERKINS - 28 EUROS 8. ASOS - 90 EUROS 9. MANGO - 70 EUROS 10. MISS SELFRIDGE - 32 EUROS 11. ZARA - 100 EUROS 12. MULBERRY 13. ASOS - 8 EUROS 14. TOPSHOP - 50 EUROS
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CiTyscape Photographer: Urivaldo Lopes Styling: Caroline Nadeau and Marianne Poulichot Hair Stylist : Studio Andersen Make up Artist: Laure Dansou Assistant: Elder Zinho Retouching by DIGITAL ELEMENTS Model: Victoria w , Agency «studio klrp Paris»
Jacket: "Acne" Dress : "JANTAMINIAU" Boots vintages : "Phylea Paris"
Dress: «Acne» Bracelet: «Phylea»
SwimSuit : «Eres» High waist skirt : «Phylea» Top volume : «JANTAMINIAU»
Jacket: «Akris» Bracelet: «Alexander Vauthier» Dress: «Art/c»
Pull: « Vivienne Westwood» Necklace : «Phylea» Swimsuit : «Eres» Shoes : « JANTAMINIAU»
Jacket round pearl : «Akris» SwimSuit : «Eres» Bra : «Phylea» Short : «Vanessa Bruno» Shoes : «Celine»
Scarf : « Eres» Top : «Celine» All Necklace: : «John Galliano»
Scarf : « Eres» Top : «Celine» All Necklace : «John Galliano» Belt : «Akris» Short : «Urivaldo Lopes»
SwimSuit : «Eres» Furry Scarf : «Alexandre Vauthier» Shoes : «Pierre Hardy»
Dress : «Julien Fournier» Jacket Dress : « JANTAMINIAU» Shoes : «John Galliano»
Fashiz’
Trends GET THE CAPE
W
by F.R.
hether for its theatricality or its practical nature that gives us a relative freedom of movement, the cape this season is the coat that does not leave us. Whether worn in black for a timeless chic, in plaid for English elegance, or camel to mix two of this winter major trends, it accommodates all styles and personalities. The cape has the advantage of going with everything, so you can pair it with jeans and boots for the day or gently drape on the shoulder with an evening dress at night.
1. PHILLIP LIM 2. 3 SUISSES- 200 EUROS 3. ASOS - 55 EUROS 4. ALTUZARRA 5. UNITED BAMBOO 6. ETAM - Price not disclosed 7. MANGO - 150 EUROS 8. CHATTAWAK 9. MISS SELFRIDGE - 80 EUROS 10. YVES SAINT LAURENT 11. MATTHEW WILLIAMSON 12. H&M - Price not disclosed 13. SINEQUANONE - 120 EUROS
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Fashiz’
Wishlist
HOW TO WEAR THE LONG SKIRT THIS WINTER? by F.R
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ew season, new skirt length. This winter, the mid-calf skirt or even the long jersey skirt will reign in our closet. Ideas of looks to adopt this trend, which has a taste of the 90s.
1. MANGO - 70 EUROS 2. MISS SELFRIDGE - 30 EUROS 3. TOPSHOP - 120 EUROS 4. ZARA - 80 EUROS 5. ASOS - 85 EUROS
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FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
Fashiz’
Trends 5 COATS FOR WINTER
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by Stella Tshika-Mpoy
et’s take a quick look on the 5 coats that will keep you warm this winter.
AVIATOR
After the tremendous enthronement at Burberry Prosrum last winter, the aviator jacket is now more than ever the general of an announced success.
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
TRENDS
BELT COAT
Illustration of an ambient depression or not, the thing is we’re too tight on our waists this winter. A fashion prescription? Maybe. Judging by 2011 Spring/Summer collection, this new whim is not about to stop
TRENCH C
OAT
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
Masterpiece of a season that never stops to reinvent its classics, the trench coat leaves the spring for a classy winter. Made of leather or other warm fabrics, here it is again, self-proclaimed choir master of elegance.
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PARKA
After a long cross of the desert, the parka jacket finds its way back in men’s closet this season. Perfect to wear over a vest in the winter, it’s being very fashionable by featuring a real design, fabric and details searching.
CABAN
Essential in any man’s closet, caban jackets are once again the favourites of this season, whether they’re made in leather or colour.
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
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A W A E GIV
FASHIZBLACK & MAKE-UP FOREVER you win a MOULIN ROUGE®!
To celebrate the launch of the « MOULIN ROUGE® pack by MAKE UP FOR EVE lection, we will have 5 of our readers win a pack made of the brand new Rouge A Crème Waterproof Aqua Cream. How to enter the giveaway? Nothing easier! Suscribe to this address : http://www.fashizblack.com/moulinrouge until November 30th. Good Luck!
AY
ROUGE ARTIST LIPSTICK, MOULIN ROUGE® SHADE Star product of 2010 fall, the MOULIN ROUGE® shade of the Rouge Artist perfectly portrays French glamour of the MOULIN ROUGE.»
make
ER » colArtist &
AQUA CREAM CONCEPT The Aqua franchise was created to answer extreme conditions and make-up artists requirements, and it’s growing with an Aqua Cream eye-shadow. This cream stimulates creativity. As a true source of inspiration, it leads the consumer to express his own artistic talents in a free way.
Fashiz’
Wishlist SPECIAL HOLIDAYS by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
S
ince it’s never too early to get ready for Christmas and New Year’s Eve, here are 3 looks we selected for you so you won’t run out of inspiration when the time comes.
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1 FIRST LOOK 1. DOROTHY PERKINS - 32 EUROS 2. H&M - 3.99 EUROS 3. FALKE - 14 EUROS 4. MATTHEW WILLIAMSON - 139 EUROS 5. NEW LOOK - 26 EUROS 6. ACCESSORIZE - 22 EUROS
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WISHLIST
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2ND LOOK
1. CARVEN - 399 EUROS 2. ZARA - 49,95 EUROS 3. SAN MARINA - 79 EUROS 4. JEWEL BY LISA SUR MYASHO.COM - 119 EUROS 5. TOPSHOP - 15 EUROS
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THIRD LOOK 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG - 169 EUROS 2. ZARA - 79,95 EUROS 3. SAN MARINA - 39 EUROS 4. TOPSHOP - 67 EUROS
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Fashiz’
Wishlist SPECIAL HOLIDAYS by Stella Tshika-Mpoy
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FIRST LOOK 1. UNIFORM FOR THE DEDICATED BUSHBOY 110 EUROS 2. UNIFORM EXPERIMENT - 65 EUROS 3. KIABI - 25 EUROS 4. FRENCH CONNECTION - 135 EUROS 5. URBAN OUTFITTERS - 95 EUROS
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1. JAPAN RAGS - 59 EUROS 2. BROOKS BROTHERS - 20 EUROS 3. FRENCH CONNECTION - 79 EUROS 4. H&M - 49,95 EUROS 5. FRENCH CONNECTION - 90 EUROS
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1. H&M - 29,95 EUROS 2. H&M - 29,95 EUROS 3. TOPMAN - 40 EUROS 4. H&M - 39,95 EUROS
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All I want
is YOU !
Photographer - MG Oania Stylist - Donald Hicks Makeup and Hair - Stephanie Perez Model - Adesuwa @ MUSE
Jacket : Topshop Tights : Wilford Shoes : Christian Siriano
Dress : T by Alexander Wang Corset : Patirica field Tight : Wilford Boots : Guess by Marciano
Dress : H&M Shoes : Guess by Marciano
Body suit : Christopher Kane Short : Ksubi Low Boots : Alexander wang Jewels : Alexis Bittar
Jacket : G-star Jean : Cheap monday
Bra and panties : La Perla
Gloves : Cheap Monday Blouse : Silent + Noise Short : Current Elliot
Top : Buffalo Exchange Jean : Buffalo Exchange
Sweater : H&M Shoes : Topshop
RETRO by F.R
(SPECTIVE)
Never a season has been so nostalgic. Every 2010-2011 F/W fashion show has been an homage to retro styles, a best of 50’s to 90’s looks, each one with its own interpretation. The 50’s woman with her curves has been adopted by Louis Vuitton while Alexander Wang decided to honour the 90’s woman with her light nonchalance. Some will say that 2000’s fashion lacks creativity and blame it on the designers by claiming that they are unable to create an exclusive look that fits their times. Unlike those critics, at Fashizblack, we’re more than happy to have fun with looks and style codes that those under 20 years old didn’t have the chance to know and learn. A review of 50’s and 90’s trends that will rhyme with our winter...
50’s
FEMININE YEARS
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9. PRINTEMPS - 80 EUROS 10. AGNES B - 220 EUROS 11. PIMKIE - 6 EUROS 12. MISS SELFRIDGE - 30 EUROS 13. SAN MARINA - 89 EUROS 14. MANGO - 25 EUROS 15. STRADIVARIUS - 20 EUROS
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
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URBAN OUTFITTERS - 42 EUROS ACCESSORIZE - 20 EUROS H&M - 30 EUROS TOPSHOP - 40 EUROS MANGO - 60 EUROS ASOS - 12 EUROS ASOS - 100 EUROS BERYL - 99 EUROS
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uit
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een at Louis Vuitton and Prada (along with other designers) the ultra-feminine silhouette of the 50’s woman will be in the spotlight this winter. From flared skirts to our grandma’s square bag, we’ll steal this taste for exuberant femininity from the 50’s. We go for a noon skirt (‘calf-length’, ed.) with an irish pullover, a thin belt and pumps. For your evening outfit, dare to wear a longline bra with a necklace, a hair band and glamorous stilettos as accessories. A silhouette that is perfect for buxom girls to show their curves. For those who are scared to look dressed up, we recommend a dress tight at the waist for a very feminine look.
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60’s
PREPPY SIXTIES !
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AXARA- 75 EUROS COS - 50 EUROS COSMO - 129 EUROS LONGCHAMP - 290 EUROS KOOKAÏ - 160 EUROS LES PETITES - 150 EUROS MANGO - 90 EUROS PIMKIE - 25 EUROS
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9. SARAH WAYNE - 182 EUROS 10. NEWLOOK- 32 EUROS 11. SINEQUANNONE - 40 EUROS 12. ZARA - 100 EUROS 13. ZARAA -70 EUROS 14. TARA JARMON - 25 EUROS
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n the 60’s, curved and pretty woman’s image from the 50’s fades away and appears a geometrical woman’s silhouette. This change can be symbolized by the trapeze dress from Courrege that was very well interpreted by Stella McCartney. Also seen in Celine and Giambattista Valli’s runway shows, the preppy silhouette goes from a nice chic pupil look to a retro style. Our favourites are a pleated skirt with socks and loafers. And for those who are less audacious, you can go for a bib collar blouse (COS) and a preppy-looking cape (Sarah Wayne).
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70’s
WHEN 70’S RHYME WITH GLAMOUR
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ompletely liberated, the 70’s are also characterized by their audacity. Superpositions become trendy: peas, stripes, glitter,.. and “sun” colours like yellow, orange, red conquer wardrobe. Far from hippies influences seen during previous years, 2010’s vision of the 70’s woman is inspired from women that made Studio 54 notorious with their eternal glamour. Just like Kenzo woman, we go for a flower dress in the morning, a sun hat and wedges. When comes the night, flared jeans, fur and a glamorous walk will be your best friends!
o
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3 SUISSES - 70 EUROS BOOHOO - 55 EUROS COSMO - 200 EUROS GERARD DAREL - 155 EUROS STRADIVARIUS - 40 EUROS MANGO - 70 EUROS H&M - 40 EUROS TOPSHOP - 25 EUROS
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9. MANGO - 90 EUROS 10. H&M - 50 EUROS 11. LANCEL - PRICE ON DEMAND 12. NEWLOOK - 70 EUROS 13. MINELLI - 90 EUROS 14. ZARA - 40 EUROS 15. MANOUKIAN - 50 EUROS
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he 80’s have been marked by the working girl myth in a large shoulder pads suits. In 2010, winter collections lean towards masculine designs focusing on a sensual and desired elegance. We’ll steal coats from men (Chloe), carrot pants will be our must-haves and we’ll dare to go for the suits (Michael Kors). To avoid the total tomboy look, add a feminine piece such as a silk blouse or high heels.
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3 SUISSES - 130 EUROS ASOS - 34 EUROS ASOS - 55 EUROS ASOS - 80 EUROS CYRILLUS - 79 EUROS MELLOW YELLOW - 120 EUROS H&M - 20 EUROS 3 SUISSES - 80 EUROS
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9. IKKS - 100 EUROS 10. UNIQLO - 35 EUROS 11. MANGO - 90 EUROS 12. ZARA - 70 EUROS 13. MOA - 40 EUROS 14. PIMKIE - 50 EUROS 15. MANGO - 140 EUROS
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90’s
MINIMALISM YEARS
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part from the huge success of grunge fashion (ripped jeans, old sneakers and the indispensable checked shirt), the 90’s were also the beginning of minimalism in fashion with designers such as Martin Margiela who were searching for a structured silhouette but not overdressed. In 2010, the most engaged ambassador of this style is the designer Haider Ackermann who glorifies, by creating a nonchalant silhouette with his designs, a decade when elegance rhymed with minimalism. Therefore, we’ll choose smooth and/or structured cuts. The long jersey skirt is definitely a musthave and it will be paired with boots and a well-cut vest. Let’s not forget about one of the It-bag of the season: the backpack.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
3 SUISSES - 18 EUROS AMERICAN RETRO - 145 EUROS COSMO - 150 EUROS ASOS - 40 EUROS H&M - 20 EUROS H&M - Price not disclosed H&M - 26 EUROS ZARA - 119 EUROS
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9. NEWLOOK - 18 EUROS 10. NEWLOOK - 20 EUROS 11. NEWLOOK - 30 EUROS 12. SCHOOL RAG - 145 EUROS 13. STRADIVARIUS -70 EUROS 14. THE KOOPLES - 220 EUROS 15. TOPSHOP - 75 EUROS
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Sewn from the Soul Photographer : Alejandro Perez Stylism : Street Etiquette (www.streetetiquette.com)
On the web, who could better embody this retro version, yet so definitely modern, of Fashion? We chose to expose you the vision of bloggers that we really appreciate, Street Etiquette.
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THIS YEAR’S REVELATIONS by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
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f this year has been rich in fashion events and other fashion shows, it’s also been a chance to discover several designers who are pencil, scissors or textile pros. Small tour of stylists who caught our editors’ attention in 2010.
FOCUS
SUNO
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n 2008, after more than 10 years putting together typically African fabrics (such as Kanga and wax), in Kenya where his mother has a small house, Max Osterweis (from Netherlands) decides to start a completely crazy and colourful brand. Even though, at the beginning, finding funds and imposing himself artistically were not easy, he gained respect and recognition as the years passed and he was joined by the stylist Erin Beattly. Together, they caught professionals ‘attention and got the chance to show their collection at New York Fashion Week. For their first participation in fashion week, they presented a Fall/Winter collection with African inspired graphics. Their pop and mixed creations that hold this incredible knowledge of mix-and-match (prints mixing) in them will leave influential editors, including Anna Wintour, and the buyers blown away. Since then, every new show still get success and positive critics. Suno is featured in big concept stores like Opening Ceremony and Bergdorf Goodman. It was definitely one of the labels with the greatest buzz this year within the New-York fashion microcosm. Plus, the designing process is ethic : fabric samples are developed in New-York then sent to Nairobi (Kenya), where craftsmen work on the manual making of the pieces. All this in order to boost up the local industry.
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XULY BËT
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HAKAAN YILDIRIM
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hen he created his brand last January, Hakaan Yildirim never imagined that he would be making such a journey. Everything began in Istanbul, Turkey, where the thirtynine years old stylist studied at Les Beaux Arts. He became a true local phenomenon and got rewarded with the Young Fashion Talent prize by Istanbul’s Textile & Apparel Exporter Associations. Then, he moved to London where he took part in 2010 F/W Fashion Week. His very feminine universe and ultra-luxurious made a huge buzz and he wouldn’t need much time to get spotted by the famous fashion photographer Mert Alas. Shortly after, he was nominated for NADAF (National Association for the Development of Arts and Fashion) aka ANDAM in French. He found himself being one of Carine Roitfeld’s favourites, who was 2010 NADAF’s jury president and he won the much coveted prize. Even though the legitimacy of this victory is still vividly contested until now and controversies against Yildirim grow faster with time, his talent, on the other hand, is undeniable. His dresses, very tight and perfect cut are certainly not stranger to Azzedine Alaia’s style.
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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
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lexandre Vauthier or the rising star of the French couture. After his law studies, he arrived in Paris at twenty years old and got in ESMOD. He became part of Thierry Mugler’s team pretty quickly. During his time with the prestigious label, he was introduced to the notion of textile and strong architecture. After a while, JeanPaul Gaultier will offer him the title of Head Designer of his Haute-Couture collection. In 2008, this Agen-born decided to take his own path and launched his own label. He showed his work for the first time at Paris Couture Fashion Week. The extravagant collection carried innovating volumes, sober drapes and extremely chic cuts. Rihanna, stylista at heart and always on the hunt for glamour and eccentric designs, didn’t think twice to get her hands on some of his pieces (and we totally understand her...)
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PAUL HERVÉ ELISABETH
EVA GABARA
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SYLVESTER FALATA
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oung man with a promising talent, Sylvester Falata is among the designers whose soul is completely mirrored in their work. Completely crazy, his ready-to-wear, feminine and masculine, didn’t leave unnoticed during the last southafrican fashion week for new designers. Annah Getaneh, ex Ethiopian model and initiator of the brand “African Mosaique”, offered her help. She saw in him a unique, perceptive vision and didn’t hesitate to share her experience to expend his originality. Ostentatious shapes and patterns, extremely bright colours, a utopian and innovative ambiance served with a lot of good taste: his shows are always a delight. Sylvester Falata is now a brand which gains in maturity and which starts to take its place not only in the South-African fashion industry but also in the whole black continent.
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BOUDOIR D’HUITRES
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aunched by Ghanaian Mimi Plange, Boudoirs d’Huitres is a brand that mainly gets its inspiration from the 70’s “boudoirs” ambiances. After her architecture studies at the University of California, Plange starts a career in textile creation and the luxury industry with a strong ambition to have her name in lights in that area. She starts off as a consultant, during many years, working with renowned stylists such as Rachel Roy and Patricia Field. Then, she finally launched her own clothing line which perfectly mixes American sportswear and a couture spirit a la French. It’s certainly not Brandy or Michelle Obama, two of the brand’s customers, who will contradict us.
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MAKI-OH
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aki-Oh is a young Ghanaian brand created by the stylist Amake Osakwe. Subtly chic, her silhouettes breathe Africa, pairing traditional sewing techniques and proportions games on the designs. While being poetic, the MakiOh closet articulates around a fantasized romanticism. With the thin drapes and class of her designs, Lagos (Nigeria), which is where she presented her pieces for the first time, were blown away. A real artistic discovery that breathes a new and fresh air on the black continent’s fashion scene.
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PRABAL GURUNG
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lso part of the much closed circle of Anna Wintour’s favourites, Gurung, won the heart of many fashionistas around the globe. He grew up in Katmandou, Nepal and entered the Institute of Fashion Technology before landing in New York where success stood on his doorstep only a year later. He created looks perfect for the red carpets that Hollywood stars are fighting for. His dresses breathe glamour from the past with a modern twist. Yves Saint Laurent’s style is also perceived in his creations. Prabal Gurung is now distributed in over fifteen stores in the world and there’s no doubt his road to success is set to be obstacle-free.
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5 MAJOR FASHION TRENDS FOR MEN IN 2010 by Stella Tshika-Mpoy
CLASSICISM 2010 was a year of classic timeless charm. It featured clean silhouettes close to body, down jackets, coats and trench coats in subtle elegance. A mastery of outdated charm.
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TRENDS OVERLAY Against a background of blurry floating overlays, the menswear is draped and is lost in wide and falling cuts for the appearance to look between a cheerful casual attitude and assumed nonchalance.
GIVENCHY
YVES SAINT LAURENT
ACCESSORIES Undeniably, accessories have a great place in the 2010 male dressing. The result: plenty of bags (from the pouch to the backpack via the tote), the sock in all its forms, ties and bow ties, glasses to correct vision (or not), scarves and headgears of any kind (felt hat, beret, borsalino ...)
LANVIN
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TRENDS SPORTY ELEGANCE
KRIS VAN ASSCHE
Finally rid of any dropout temptations, sportswear is stylish dressing for a male, conducive to uncomplicated styles. Hoodies are worn with jackets, hybrid pants (half-jogging, half-harem pants) with elasticated waist punctuate wardrobe where technical fabrics were paired with mastered cuts. Multiple zippers and high top sneakers complete this harmonious blend of materials and cuts for elegance and flexibility.
GUCCI
PREPPY BOYS Resolutely preppy, the 2010 silhouette played on contrasts and mixed with ease the look of the preppy student and the retro rock legacy of Teddy Boys of the 50s.
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DSQUARED
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THE 5 MAJOR 2010 TRENDS by F.R
1) AFRICA IN OUR WARDROBES 2010 have been the year of African aesthetisc. The warm and bright colors of local loincloths made their grand entrance this year. From Dries Van Noten to Suno via Paul Smith, Africa sure instiled to fashion its own vision of cuts, colors and prints. And with ambassadors such as Beyoncé, Solange Knowles and Erykah Badu, this phenomenon allowed the continent to introduce its designers who are as talented as they are unfairly unknown by the mainstream.
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SOLANGE KNOWLES
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FOCUS 2) THE CLOGS They were at the center of many controversies this year. Established by the great Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel this summer, clogs created a rift along fashionistas all year long. On one hand, those who directly elected them It-shoes and on the other, the ones who stagged then straight for their ugliness... The fight is not even close to end since they are coming back this season as booties (Jeffrey Campbell).
JEFFREY CAMPBELL
CHANEL
3) ANNÉES 80 Extravanganza and spontaneity decade, as far as lifestyle and fashion were concernerned, the 80’s were all about that. Green, fluo, pink, golden shades and shoulder pads are all codes from these years where extranvagance rhymed so well with elegance. The 80’s are still present this winter, and will bring Working Girls, their chic and androgynous allure back.
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FOCUS
4) MINIMALISM Contasting with the 80’s codes, minimalism commands a relatively simple silhouette in the cuts, colors and even in the attitude. Imposed in 2010 by the talented Phoebe Philo, quickly followed by Stella McCartney and Hannah McGibbon at Chloe, we can also find this trend at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander, masters of the field.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
CELINE
5) THE NUDE It’s the new fashionistas’ black. It wonderfully pairs with every color and is still the only color that can be worn in a total look without any risk of a fashion faux-pas!
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ALBERTA FERRETTI
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THE HOT AND MESS DURING FASHION WEEK by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
Fashion is an excellent way to stay on top of the bill or, at least, to have a word said about you somewhere. Celebrities know that by now. During the various fashion weeks that took place from September to October all over the world, some singers and actresses played the it-girls, parading in pretty elaborated outfits, one of the reasons to do so being attention. But sadly, some of them seemed to forget that trying to walk in a fashionista’s shoes is far different from being one. Zoom on the best looks but also on the most disastrous ones seen during 2010-2011 Spring/Summer fashion weeks.
ZOOM @ Miu Miu
THE BEST
@ Thakoon
during Fashion Night Out
KERRY WASHINGTON
RIHANNA
@ Mizhari
SOLANGE KNOWLES
YAYA DACOSTA
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CHRIS BROWN
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ZOOM @ Issa London
THE WORST
@ Betsey Johnson
CIARA
AMBER ROSE
@ L.A.M.B
SELITA EBANKS
SERENA WILLIAMS
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Model DAVID AGBODJI. by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
CrĂŠdits photos : GoRunway.Com, Models.com
H
e is the man chosen by Calvin Klein to represent their brand during the past summer and also for the current autumn and winter. He is also the one who, for some time, has become essential to the fashion sphere. Throughout the year, with his almost perfect physique and angelic face, Agbodji was seen in all the magazines and shows. Whether in a fashion shoot for Vogue Paris, another for NUMERO, as a tribute to Grace Jones, or for Louis Vuitton, Agbodji was perfectly able to maintain his place in the industry over the last twelve months.
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Model KELLY MOREIRA by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
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he story of this ebony beauty could be likened to a fairy tale. As a finalist in Elite Model Look, in which her mother enrolled her through MySpace.com, Kelly Moreira was propelled to the top of modeling in a few months. Walking first for Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo, and Leonard during Fashion Week spring / summer 2010 in Paris and then for Suno in New York, she went on with a Uniqlo campaign and later, the ultimate accolade: being one of the muses of the Jean-Paul Gaultier campaign this fall.
Bustier Dress : Eva Minge Jewels : Claire’s Shoes : Kenzo
e
The Winter Show The holidays are coming fast, and to celebrate it, we decided to bring three of our readers to discover one of the most famous Paris places in the world: The Moulin Rouge! When a few fashion pieces of this winter meet the Cabaret world... Models : Awa, Leslie et Nancy Make Up: Monica & Claire Etievant pour Make Up Forever. Hair : Murielle Licyr. Styling : P.A.N., Ra誰ssa T. & Laura E.S. Photographer : J.Mo
Nancy (left) wears a Aggabati dress with Steve Madden pumps. Leslie (middle) wears a Lallou Dress with Lanvin pumps. Awa (right) wears a Resille top, an Axara draped skirt with Lanvin pumps.
Sweater : Minna Parikka Vintage Skirt : Schmeinck chez Allison & Sasha Pumps : Zara
Mini sweater : PP from Longwy Leggings : Aslifilinta Booties : Bonprix Necklace : Le Monde de Julie
Bustier Dress : Eva Minge Jewels : Claire’s
Camel Coat : Lener Pumps : Fendi
Bustier dress : Eva Minge Jewels : Claire’s
Cape : Luis Buchino Earrings : Mango Booties : PP from Longwy
par Leuja
INTERVIEW
LAQUAN SMITH:
«l’enfant terrible» of the Queens Interview by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie.
Since two seasons, Laquan Smith has turned out to be a fashion rising star. His designs already charmed international stars like Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, and fashion insiders like André Leon Talley and Diane Von Furstenberg all agree about this native of New-York : his talent is exceptional. We met him to discuss it all.
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INTERVIEW
T
ell us a bit about Laquan Smith. Who is he, where does he come from and when did the idea to be a fashion design first come about? Laquan Smith : 21 year old African Ameri-
can designer. Born and raised in Queens, N.Y. on August 30, 1988. I’ve been into fashion ever since I can remember. I have always loved the way fabric is laid or was designed to lay on a person’s body to fit their particular shape.
FM : Do you have any formal training in fashion design? L.S : I have no formal training in construc-
ting garments. I am self taught - wiith the help from my grandmother. I received my 1st sewing machine at 13. It was a Singer. I’ve been designing ever since.
I was truly inspired by water and sand. I wanted to create a fabulous wardrobe for the woman who lived under the sea - such as «The Little Mermaid» or her sisters. Except, I envisioned the little mermaid hitting the streets of New York!
FM : Did Africa Fashion Week, as a platform, meet your expectations? L.S: I honestly did not have any expectation
when arriving to Africa. This was my first time out of the U.S. in general. I travelled with an open mind and much excitement. When I arrived, Africa was more fabulous than I could have imagined! The show was a great success. I was so happy that everyone enjoyed the collection. Most importantly, AFI was so warm and welcoming considering I was the only African-American designer to show.
FM : You mentioned that the collection FM : What best defines the ideal Laquan was made by yourself with no industrial Smith woman? machinery or assistance of seamstresses and such. How much time do you spend L.S : The Laquan Smith woman is the perso- on your work? nification of modernity, sensuality, and liberation in femininity.
L.S: The collection was made in my bedroom in Queens. Considering I was running a «one
FM : Tell us a bit about the collection man show», designing the collection took you showcased at Africa Fashion Week? longer than normal. However, sewing is like L.S: I presented Africa with an extension of
my A/W 2010 «Water Goddess» collection. Showcasing deep sea diving inspired dresses and pieces, sleek neoprene pencil skirts, gold/bronze sea urchin inspired dresses.
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second nature to me. I’m constantly working on new ideas, new visions, new stories to tell with my clothes. There’s hardly ever a moment when I’m not designing.
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INTERVIEW FM : What did you think of the other designers you got to see at Africa Fashion Week? Did one in particular stand out for you? Why? L.S: I thought all the designers were great!
Everyone has their own story to tell. I noticed many of the designers showcased a lot of bright colours and ethnic prints -- Most of what you don’t normally see in the U.S. Every line was unique and exciting in its own way!
FM : How did your relationship with Vogue Editor-at-Large Leon Talley come about?
as an artist. He has been the greatest mentor I’ve ever had! He’s filled with so much wisdom, inspiration, and style - I learn from Andre every time we meet and speak!
FM : What is your fashion philosophy? S.K: A woman wears what she feels, I design for her feelings. Feeling good in LaQuan Smith is only natural
http://www.laquansmith.com/
L.S : Andre attended my NY Fashion Week
Debut which was my A/W 2010 show in February. He showed great interest in my work after my NY Times Article by Ruth La Ferla was published. Andre understands my vision
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MARC JACOBS
ERIC RAISINA
GUCCI
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THE SPECTRUM OF YVES SAINT LAURENT FLOATS ACROSS THE SEASON ... by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
T
he omnipresence of Yves Saint Laurent was clearly expressed in the presentation of fashion shows Spring / Summer 2011. From New York to Paris via Milan, references to the late genius of haute couture have been recurring on the catwalk.
Another former designer of the brand, Alber Elbaz, inserted some Saint Laurent quotes in his stylistic intentions for Lanvin, including the dress with metal castings worn by the top Joan Smalls, which was reminiscent of the famous African collection in 1967. Of the same ilk, with its Saharan-inspired fringed dresses, clean cut jodhpurs, and perfect fit safari jackets, is the Gucci show led by After the exhibition devoted to his work at Frida Giannini. She told the press that the the Petit Palais in Paris, it must believed ideas in this collection came to her during that the word was passed to pay tribute to a trip to Marrakech. It all makes sense : the YSL style. At Marc Jacobs, where the 70’s period -marked by the final print of the mas- Moroccan city was one of the favorite places of the late fashion designer, that also had a ter - was honored, the pioneer spirit of the great impact on his work. The artistic direcSaint Laurent Rive Gauche was awakened. tor of Gucci, with YSL influences, has cerShades of saffron, tobacco, beige, ivory and tainly signed one of her best collections. plum, along with fluid pants and imposing capelines, & safari jackets were revisited Of course, the most magnificent Saint : this is the silhouette of a smart and free woman. In New York, Tom Ford, to mark his Laurent woman appeared in her original ready-to-wear comeback, felt free to submit home run by Stefano Pilati. It is the Parisian woman, seen by Yves himself, strong, a collection strongly reminiscent of Yves in her austere elegance, that we saw on the Saint Laurent, although at the time he held runway. It must be said that African desithe position of artistic director for the Saint gners were no exception to YSL influence. Laurent house, their relationship was very This is the case of Eric Raisina of Madagas- ►►► conflicting.
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car, which was inspired by the famous dress stature leaves this world, his stamp remains Mondria for his latest collection by pairing generally forever. ■ this print with those unique textiles, mix of cotton and other materials such as silk, which are dear to his heart . This series of reminders of the glory of Yves Saint Laurent keeps his memory alive and proves once again that when an artist of his
ERIC RAISINA
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YVES SAINT LAURENT
GUCCI
A GAUCHE ZARA, À DROITE BALMAIN.
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Hotspot THOMAS-NELSON GALLERY Interview by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie
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homas-Nelson Gallery became THE place to be if you want to meet a diversity of young designers with different universes. Being the brain behind this young and promising talents’ circle, Sabrina, a young dynamic and ambitious woman, born in Martinique, had a little interview with us. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : How did you get this idea to create a fashion gallery? Sabrina Thomas-Nelson : I’m originally a designer myself. I graduated from a great Parisian school and I always noticed a lack of promotion and exposure for young designers. After the recession in 2008, it became almost impossible for them to rise to the level of an independent brand. It’s after a trip to New York, where the situation is completely different from here that I really made up my mind. I took a place that used to be an art gallery and made it the first ever fashion gallery in France. FM : What did you have to do to achieve that? S. T-N : First, it was about creating a business, so that it took some time. Since I had worked with press offices before, I had some contacts that supported me in one way or another. But I’m not talking about financial support. From the beginning I had 8 designers with me; it was already a big plus. I also got some help from a friend. But I want to mention the huge support my parents gave me; they live in Martinique and they only knew about the project at the very last minute.
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HOTSPOT FM : What were your motivations? S. T-N : When I was a little girl, becoming a fashion designer seemed like an unattainable dream. Then I got in studies that had nothing to do with fashion: bachelor of sciences. After I understood that fashion was accessible only if I gave myself the right tools, I realized how much my island (Martinique) was slowing my pace in that journey and I came in Paris. And also, since I intend to become designer myself, I’m completely aware of the obstacles they have to go through and I had this urge to help them. FM : How do you choose your designers? S. T-N : For now, I’m lucky that they’re the ones coming to me. First, I take a look at their universe. I don’t like to stick to my personal tastes. I’m really careful to the details...It’s very important that their brand have business status. Fashion and designing have to be serious matters for them. A good feeling between us is also important and I make sure to put the artistic aspect before everything else. FM : What’s the difference between a regular showroom and your gallery? S. T-N : First of all, the gallery is opened to the public and it works really like an art gallery. There’s a window with view on the street and we don’t put so much accent on seasons and trends. But when it comes to quality, we’re as intransigent as a showroom can be!
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HOTSPOT FM : What are you planning for your gallery? What are your plans for the future? S. T-N : I hope it will get more influence. To this day, we’ve been lucky enough to have a lot of exposure even overseas. I got nominated as one of the fifty ladies who make France move by a high class magazine. What’s my true wish? I want the gallery to become part of the young creative Parisian culture. In February 2011, anniversary month of the gallery, we’re planning to have a creation contest in which the public will be able to take part in. We strongly want to organize more events. For my part, I want to grow as a stylist. FM : Let me be a little nosy: What is selling best? S. T-N : The designers that are showcased in the gallery change every month. In fact, it’s a renewable monthly contract. But I can say that jewellery from LE MONDE DE JULIE (see our
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HOTSPOT editorial page 131) have a lot of notoriety, just like SEV SEVAD. FM : Who are your favourite designers? S. T-N : Oh, I’ve been asked the same question a little while ago. Of course, just like everybody, I like the big names out there: I love Balenciaga, Balmain, Chanel and Alexander McQueen for their timeless fashion. But I also have a weakness for Korean designers. On the other hand, I’m really interested in the young community’s work since it’s part of my job. FM : What advice could you give to young designers but also to young entrepreneurs? S. T-N :I’m going to start with the young entrepreneurs. First, they have to realize that creating a business is far from being easy. It’s something that should be taken seriously. Never neglect anything and always have a plan B because we never know. It’s an area for determined and courageous people. For young designers, it’s first about being ready to invest a lot of their own money. Imagining a collection is not enough, they have to think of which fabric to use and pay attention to the production. To move, to get updated, to be aware of what’s going on in the industry is also extremely important. In both the cases, patience is your best ally and you have to be self-confident.
Galerie Thomas-Nelson, 4 rue du Bourg l’Abbé 75003 Paris Tel : +33142711251 www.galeriethomasnelson.com
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BEAU
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Retro Beauty Photography: Jack Younger MUA: Sophie L Edit: Cameron Model : Esh D
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DANY SANZ TELLS US ABOUT THE MOULIN ROUGE COLLECTION par Love Voundi
A wry face, a burlesque expression, a timeless character...the new look from Dany Sanz leans towards humour, off beat tone and femininity. It’s a representation that fits the show business industry, a conscious cliché of a character with an excessive personality. With muses like Josephine Baker, Dany Sanz wanted to create a cabaret look specific to black and mixed women. After Moulin Rouge collection, Dany Sanz gives us the Show Off look. Express-Interview with MAKE UP FOREVER creator and artistic director, who reveals secrets on her vision of the cabaret.
BEAUTY FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : Why did you create a cabaret look for black and mixed skins? And how is it different from the Moulin Rouge look? Dany Sanz: It’s obvious that you’re not going to use the same make up for a dark skinned or mixed woman as a light skinned woman. That’s why it was a must for me, while creating the cabaret look for Moulin Rouge, to create a different one that would be perfectly in tune with a more pigmented skin. Also, in the show business, there is a big percentage of “coloured” women: women who love make up and are looking particularly for anything extravagant and festive. Plus, most ring leaders in a cabaret or musicals are black women. It seemed logical to me that these women, even those who’re not part of show business, should have their own look- that’s why I created this make-up line that fits their skin colour and their style, a custom-made creation for them, different from Moulin Rouge creation that is more adapted to light skins. At Moulin Rouge, most dancers have a skin that could be described as Caucasian, I made this festive line for darker skins and that also optimize mixed women’s beauty.
FM : What is the best stage make-up for a black or mixed woman?
choose colours that are more pigmented compared to the ones used on a light skinned woman- Everything pigmented and pearly illuminates a dark skin ten times more than a light skin.
FM: How can we adapt this Show Off look to our everyday life? D.S : All the colours that appeared in that look are extremely natural: purple, navy blue, white or pink have a nude effect on mixed skins. In this look, I really wanted to accentuate the lips. On the eyes, I chose purple, pink and mauve; these are very natural colours on a dark skin. The most original touch is the lips, just like Moulin Rouge. It was amusing to prove that fleshy lips (which is a characteristic given to coloured women), I was still able to work on the contours with a dark tone, for example purple, which is usually a colour used for eyes. I played with colours and products to sculpt the lips and accentuate them- an unusual technique on those types of lips and can create stereotypes: to decrease them, it’s better not to emphasize them.
D.S : Those skins are darker so it’s obvious light colours and the colours that have tendencies to make their skin look grey-ish are to ban. They know that and they don’t go for these colours. To apply makeup on a dark skinned woman, it is important to
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BEAUTY
FM : Would you advise to use this method every day? D.S : Of course. It’s about bordering the lips with a dark tone and decreasing it as you get closer to the mucous membranes, it was a very fashionable method back in the 90’s and is even more fashionable now with mixed women who have fleshy lips and want them decreased. It’s a true makeup artist correction. The tip is to apply a very dark colour on the lips contour and tone it down as you’re close to the inside of the lips. At some point, that method was called “Lips a la American”, I don’t know the reason to that but it’s certainly because it originated first in the USA.
For this fall, what are the trendy colours for a mixed or ebony woman? D.S : This fall’s collections are leaning towards different shades of brown to rusty colours, contrasted by a lot of black. Makeup colours are following that trend. Those colours are superb on dark skins and give a “tone on tone” effect. Satin-like colours will emphasize their caramel tones and dark skins while being in perfect tune with the tren. ■
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ADVICE FROM PROFESSIONALS ON HOW TO MAKE YOUR NAIL POLISH LAST LONGER by SAM
It’s impossible to ignore this trend: nail polish is making its show and will keep us company this winter! Notorious beauty houses and professionals give us a wide choice of colours to fit each one of our mood. Grey, beige, nude, kaki, candy pink, bloody red, peacock blue,...This winter, you can dare everything! The only problem when you apply nail polish is that the lasting isn’t the same for all of them. So, this winter, how are going to have a 3 days lasting nail polish on our hands? We met with Alexandra FALBA, manager of “Culture Of Color” nail bars. Nail bars are institutes that are completely dedicated to nails beauty. Concept is very simple: taking care of your hands and feet, making you enjoy more than 200 nail polish colours, offering you different performances for your nails, in a zen and ultra chic ambience. The concept is very original and gives you the opportunity to relax and enjoy yourself in a modern and cosy environment.
Alexandra tells the Fashizblack ladies all the tips to take care of your nails and make your favourite nail polish last longer.
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : What’s your advice to prepare your nails before applying nail polish? Alexandra FALBA; If you want your nail polish to last long enough, it’s fundamental to prepare your nails accordingly: push back the cuticles (with delicacy), then file your nails at the length and shape how you want them to be. Clean nail surface with 90° alcohol. I strongly recommend not using nail polish remover because they all contain a greasy element (lanoline, glycerin...) that keeps the nail polish from setting on your nail. And never apply moisturizing cream just before applying your nail polish to avoid the nail “greasing”. Nota Bene: We do it in our institutes but we have special cleaners that you can’t find in your local store.
FM : What are your tips to make your nail polish last longer? A.F. : There are 4 big steps to make in order to have your nail polish last as long as possible: 1. Always apply a base coat: it protects nails from nail polish pigments, makes nail polish adhesion and colour appliance easier. 2. Apply two nail polish layers, the first one has to be thin (it doesn’t matter if it’s uniform or not) and the second one will be more generous. That way you’ll get a nice and thick colour. 3. Remember to pass the brush on the tips of the nails : the nail polish will last longer 4. Always apply a top-coat: it’ll protect the
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BEAUTY nail polish from exterior aggressions
FM: Is it preferable to cut or file your nails? Why? What’s trendier now? Long or short nails? A.F. : NEVER cut your nails: the micro-shocks caused by that can result in a splitting of the nail. It’s better to file them with a soft file and always go from sides to the centre of the nail. Very long nails are not always considered elegant. This winter, nails are short (but longer than it used to, between 2mm and 4mm is a good norm). As for the shape, almond is trendy now but it doesn’t look good on everybody. Nonetheless, it’s better to have a nail shape that’s in harmony with your hand anatomy.
FM : What colors are in, this season, according to you?
nutes for a simple manicure with nail polish appliance. Prices: 5 Euros for nail polish appliance (without French) and 20 Euros for a manicure. So it’s definitely an ideal stop for a lunch break. ■
A.F. : I’m going to classify this winter’s trends in three different categories: • The “hunt” trend: grey, brown, kaki, nude beige, peacock blue or deep emerald. • The “black and shiny” trend: gold, silver, glitter for the most audacious • Back to classics: deep red, thick, burned tones.
How much time do you take to apply nail polish in your nail bars? Can an active woman have her nails done during her lunch break? A.F. : It takes between 5 and 10 minutes for a simple nail polish appliance, 20 and 30 mi-
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BEAUTY We also met Sonia, 22 years old, “Culture of Color” nail bar’s customer. “ I am a salesperson in the luxury ready-towear industry, so appearance is very important and my hands always have to look flawless. I love their nail bars because for 5 Euros, you can get a large choice of colors. It’s also fast and well done. Their nail polish last really for a long time, especially with their “top coat” technique, it’s magic, it lasts at least 10 days. When I come here, I know the result will be very natural and won’t look vulgar. I always have a weakness for “Sanguine” color and turquoise “Ogre the top bleu”
There are currently 4 institutes in Paris. A nail bar opening is set for November 6th at Bon Marche and two openings are planned at Versailles and in the Marais.
CULTURE OF COLOR • • • •
196 rue de Grenelle - 75007 Paris - tel: 01 45 50 20 66 87 rue Réaumur - 75002 Paris - tel: 01 42 36 08 01 1 rue Turbigo - 75001 Paris - tel: 01 42 21 47 89 17 / 19 rue Boulard - 75014 Paris - tel: 01 42 79 07 26 For more info, visit : http://www.cultureofcolor.fr
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WINTER’S ESSENTIALS by SAM
1. NAIL POLISH CHANEL «PARTICULIÈRE 505» 20.60€ 2. NAIL POLISH O.P.I «YODEL ME ON MY CELL» 13.90€ 3. MAVALA COLOR MATT (SOFT TOUCH EFFECT) 9.80€ 4. FASHIZBLACK BEAUTY CRUSH : BI-COLOR COLLECTION, YVES SAINT LAURENT 40.50€ FOR BOTH. 5. TOP COAT «O.P.I» 11.40€ 11.40€
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SKIN UNDER THE COLD by Love Voundi
1. INTEGRAL DAY CREAM, FARIDA B 2. REPAGEN NOIR CREAM, KLAPP 3. MAKE-UP REMOVER, DEMAK UP 4. WELEDA MOISTURISING SKIN FOOD : HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR DRY AND ROUGH SKIN. 5. ECLAT DU JOUR CREAM, CLARINS 6. COCO LIPSTICK : WILL MOISTURE YOUR LIPS. TO BRING MORE RADIANCE TO YOUR FACE, «PARIS» AND «TAFFETAS ROSE» SHADES ARE RECOMMENDED. 7. ARGAN OIL BATH SALTS 8. GLOWING BODY MILK, YELEN 9. LOTION «DAY AND NIGHT» , LUSH : FOR A VERY SOFT CLEANSING.
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CULT
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INTERVIEW WITH AVEC LA LOUVE by M.C
I
n the world of french female rap, few artists were not overshadowed by the commercial success of Diam’s. Too tomboy-ish, too attached to concepts that have already been visited, French female rappers have trouble finding their path to success. We met with the most atypical among them: Mik’Ya La Louve. She started off as a high level athlete and decided to turn to rap with strong and feminine lyrics which are starting to make much more noise.
MUSIC
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : How was the transition from sport to high level rap? Mik’Ya La Louv : I have always been immerged in it. My sister did poetry slam while I was in sports studies. So I grew up watching her writing with NTM as background. Then I started writing with my “big brothers” ’support and it became evidence to my eyes. I don’t even think there’s a difference between rap and sport: it’s a competition, always looking to surpass yourself, in order to do better than last time...But it stays fair-play, a healthy competition...
FM : We saw you the first time in the video “Claque des doigts”. Isn’t it problematic to be feminine in French rap nowadays? M. : We saw you the first time in the video “Claque des doigts”. Isn’t it problematic to be feminine in French rap nowadays? Actually, you want to know if it’s not complicated to be ME. I didn’t ask myself this question, I know it’s not everybody’s cup of tea because I don’t fit the typical French female rapper’s criteria, but I have no problem with it. I think that the problem in the rap in general is that a male rapper gets his butt kicked (lyrically of course) by a female. I believe music has no gender. As long as my Rap & Roll, as I like to call it,
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moves people, it’s mission accomplished by La Louve!
FM: What is Rap & Roll? Or at least, how do you define the “Roll” of your Rap? M. : The Roll side doesn’t only symbolize Rock. It symbolizes all my influences, from soul to french popular music, or guitars that we can hear in some melodies...It’s a particular sound that brings together almost everything that I always listened to, including French pop-rock for example.
FM : It’s very honourable from you to maintain your originality, but isn’t it a hard task when you’re a new artist and not really popular? M. : Of course it’s complicated. I work, I’m a mother as well and I have no problem with that. It’s all about patience and sacrifices and I know it’s worth it. My public keeps on growing and that’s part of my success. I do gigs, appearances on the radio, I meet people and that’s what keeps me moving.
FM : Good. About the album, when you listen to “VERDA”, you expect themes about females in the ghetto and their struggles, and other clichés,...but once
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Photo : Rhoda T.
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MUSIC you listen to it you’re pleasantly surprised by the album. And you also don’t hesitate verbally attacking the opposite sex... M. : It can look like teasing or provocation but it’s just my tomboy side expressing itself. And for the clichés on girls from the ghetto, I didn’t talk about it because –and I own up this statement- I think they victimize themselves a bit too much. I’m able to say that numerous of those girls are to blame for their own problems because I got to witness and even experience some situations myself. IT IS NOT ALWAYS MEN’ FAULT, IT’S 50/50. I’m not saying that it’s the majority of them, but I think that some are their own source of problems. I’m not their spokesperson because I don’t consider myself a girl from the ghetto. First and foremost, I’m a young woman, I’m French (from the Diaspora) who lived in the ghetto. That’s the difference. That’s why you can hear in the song “Da Bossy” these lyrics: “I have to justify my address with YO YO’s”
FM : Do you want to make a tour to promote “VERDA” in France? M. : I will have some dates. In a few days, I’ll be on stage at Porte de la Villette (Paris) invited by slam poet/rapper BAMS, who is a big supporter of mine actually.urs.
FM : Let’s take a little break from Rap... what do you think of the “Guerlain” case? We saw a lot of rappers speaking
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out about it as Mokobe or Disiz Punk,... M. : Unfortunately, I think Jean-Paul Guerlain held this kind of language because it’s getting more and more unoriginal and mainstream, and also because there’s no solidarity...But I found Audrey Pulvar’s answer very classy and non-vulgar. I’m still waiting for Rama Yade’s answer actually. She spoke when it involved French soccer team players and their too luxurious hotel but on this case, she remained strangely silent. Same for Yannick Noah or Liliam Thuram. On the other hand, I’m not sure that Guerlain’s brand’s boycott is a good idea though...
FM : Speaking of boycotts, Sexion d’Assaut got their nomination for MTV European Music Awards cancelled and many of their concerts too because of the homophobic statements they made... M. : On this specific case, I can’t make any comment since I wasn’t there when the interview happened and that it’s their word against the journalist’s. However, I think it’s sad. I was really proud of Sexion d’Assaut and the commercial success they got with their previous album It’s really sad that a “slip up” ruins all those efforts...
FM : Is French rap still has that dependence to American rap? M. : I think it does, it’s obvious. Hip-Hop was BORN in USA so everything that’s going on over there ends up here one way or the
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MUSIC other. Autotune is a perfect example or lately this whole ELECTRO-HOUSE trend. As I said before, the problem is that French rappers DON’T DARE.
You can get yourself a copy of VERDA here: http://www.hiphopstory.fr/product. php?id_product=25 , and at FNAC and in all Virgin stores.
FM : But there are rappers like Mc Tyer or Rohff, 2 french rap masters, who ventured in Electro-rap lately... M. : Let me answer you by a question: Why didn’t they do it before? Music is to DARE, to go beyond barriers and bring YOUR own universe. You have to IMPOSE your style to the public and not the other way round. I promote freedom or artistic foolishness, I’m tired to wait on a green light from whoknows-who to sing or rap a certain way. Youssoupha, Booba or, at the time, TSN, covered some classics from French popular music. That’s an example of opening. Don’t expect the public to be more openminded if you don’t open yourself in your music first.
FM : We can assume that we’re going to hear some popular music in your next EP...By the way, can we have more info about it? When is it going to be available? M. : We’re touching it up. I can’t give out too many information about it but for now, it is set to be released in 2011 with some collaborations and it won’t be nothing like VERDA.■
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Music by Keyzz
W
ith this last issue of 2010 comes an annual assessment. What were the surprises and disappointments of this year? Who’s to watch in 2011? This article, which is, of course, non-exhaustive, will be pointing at both past and future.
BEN L’ONCLE SOUL
SADE
DISIZ PETERPUNK
One of the French best upcoming artists. Inspired from the biggest 60’s black music times, the young man from Tours imposed his soul music to a large audience, larger than the circle of initiated. It got him to be nominated for an MTV Europe Music Awards (EMA). A promising future.
Her triumphant come-back after ten years of silence is one of the biggest surprises of 2010. And everything happened with her usual softness since she told her public about the album release “Soldier Of Love” just a few months before it was out in the stores. This album is, with no doubt, one of the best of this year.
As weird as it may sound, Disiz’s music style’s switch from rap to rock was flawless. Even though this U turn got him to lose a part of his fans, he gained a new kind of audience with his live performances and, especially, with his mastered album (“Dans le Ventre du Crocodile”). Let’s wait and see what future is holding for him.
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special mention on solo albums by Travis McCoy (Lazarus) and Big Boi from Outkast (Sir Lucious Left Foot: The Son of Chico Dusty) which are a real success along with cover albums like Phil Collins’s “Going Back”, which takes on Soul tunes that were not popular and from the prestigious Motown sound. “Guitar Heaven: The Greatest Guitar Classics Of All Time” from rocker Santana, who surrounded himself with first choice guests (Nas, Scott Weiland, India Arie,…), is also one of them; his album contains new interpretations of many legendary songs written for guitar. Janelle Monae could not be left behind since she gave us one of the most creative albums of the year (The ArchAndroid)
SEXION D’ASSAUT
With the album “L’ecole des Points Vitaux”, gone triple platinum, the Parisian group had originality and success rhyming together. Powerful lyrics, creative interpretations, the public didn’t need more to fall head over heels for them even though the group’s future is a little compromised after some homophobic statements made by Lefa in Hip Hop International Magazine. Too bad.
TOP FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
MUSIC DRAKE
LIL’ JON
JIMI HENDRIX
After creating a huge buzz with his first mixtapes and his signature with Young Money (Lil Wayne’s label), the Ontarian rapper served “Thank Me Later”, a lacklustre, at the beginning of the summer. We hope to see him next year on better projects because we know that, nonetheless, this young man is talented. Semi-flop
«Crunk Rock» generated a gigantic anticipation. Unfortunately, Lil’ Jon’s recipe hasn’t improved yet since his first half decade’s successes. There’s a heated up and easiness after taste when listening to the songs, all clearly made for clubs. Enjoyable for parties but deceiving for the rest.
Even if his album “Valleys of Neptune” is far from being a deception, it’s the announcement made about it that repulsed Hendrix’s aficionados. Indeed, “Valleys Of Neptune” was falsely announced as an exclusive album but most of the songs on it were already released in the past in different versions. Big deception.
EMINEM Even if, the Detroit rapper still have a prestigious aura, it’s impossible not to notice that “Relapse” is a clear proof that he lost a lot of charisma and creativity. “Recovery” is a little better but it’s sad to see that the inventive craziness that characterized his alter-ego is gone forever.
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FLOP
MUSIC THEOPHILUS LONDON
J. COLE
MONSIEUR NOV
Classy. That’s the best word to describe Theophilus London. After using the concept from an Elvis Costello’s album cover for his “Charming Mixtape”, Theophilus seems on his way to success for the end of year even though his music is slightly inaccessible for the majority. To be continued…
This young man from Fayetteville (in North Carolina) is one of the biggest hopes in the rap world across the Atlantic. Jay-Z did a great move by signing him on his label Roc Nation after leaving his CEO post at Def Jam.
Even if French soul junkies have known about «the bald chinese», the emergence of a new generation of that genre makes its ascension on top of charts easier. Only his career’s future will tell us.
RICHGIRL
The new female R&B band climbs the ladder of success slowly but surely. Despite the fact that their first official single “He Ain’t Wit Me Now” was a failure, they waited long enough to prepare for a smashing come-back. Unlike some similar bands, RichGirl outshines them since all four can sing correctly. An album is on track. Patience.
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ARTISTS TO WATCH…
CULTURAL DIARY THE «POUPEES NOIRES»
MUSICAL RAINBOW
The «POUPEES NOIRES» association from the TROPICS association will launch the second edition of their black dolls show at the 66 Pelleport location in Paris, December 4th . Collectors, children, parents, designers or just curious showcomers : here is your chance to discover booths which might teach you a lot about the treasures of diversity (If you are not only charmed by these cute little vinyl-made dolls ) . More information here : www.poupeesdestropiques.com
As usual at this time of the year, musicians from Subsaharan & North Africa, as well as those from the Indian Ocean gather in a couple of towns from the Seine-SaintDenis department (near Paris), for the AFRICOLOR festival . The 2010 edition will take place from Friday November 12th to Friday December 24th . More information here : www.africolor.com
CARRIBEAN VIBRATIONS From Friday 5th to Sunday 14th of November, the Montparnasse museum, the Worldwide Culture House and La Bellevilloise are welcoming the Carribean Vibrations 2010 Festival . With the major theme this year being the Amazons, movies , music shows, literature, visual arts and social sciences are scheduled . Among the artists who were invited, we can name Jocelyne Beroard, writer Fabienne Kanor, Jazz-singer Mina Agossi, Haitian artist Emeline Michel, Calypso diva from the Tobago island Calypso Rose etc..
FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE Nov-Dec 2010
AGENDA
AFRICA SHOWCASES ITS MOST BEAUTIFUL WORDSMITHES PLUME d’AFRIQUE consists in several meetings planned by Réseau Afrique 37 ( a departmental collective of African cooperation associations ), focusing on literary and artistic expressions from French-speaking Africa. Located in the Indre-et-Loire french department and patronized by madagascan writer Jean-Luc RAHARIMANANA, journalists, photographers & film directors are invited to debate during conferences and expositions among other events. The 5th edition is on, in different places in the Indre-et-Loire department, until December 16th 2010. Plus d’informations sur : plumesdafrique37.fr
THE HARE AND THE PLANE
PHILLIS GALEMBO - MASKE
From December 5th to January 30th 2011, actor Roch-Amédet Banzouz will showcase the story he wrote himself, and directed by Emmanuel Letourneux. The plot is about a young boy, born in a congolese village, who always dreamed to be a pilot . To achieve his dream, he’ll go through the Equatorial forest, in order to reach France, where he will be able to attend school . Throughout his risky journey in the dark forest, his only weapons are his intelligence, determination and a mysterious help from his ancestors . More than a delightful play, « The Hare and the Plane» teaches one a great lesson about courage and being really involved in one’s project(s) . A must-see !
For 25 years Phyllis Galembo has visited many countries of Africa and the African diaspora, on the lookout for the African tradition of the mask, which she found in traditional ceremonies, carnivals and simple contemporary outfits. This is a beautiful contribution to the African art debate, the power of carnivals, transformation, masks, and disguise.
More information here : www.dapper.com.fr
EDITIONS : Chris Boots. MEETING AND SIGNING AT COLETTE THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 18TH FROM 6 PM TO 8 PM.
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ADDRESS BOOK FASHION 3 SUISSES : 08 92 69 15 00 A.P.C : 01 42 78 18 02 ACCESSORIZE : 01 42 24 84 15 AGNÈS B. : 01 40 73 81 10 ALL SAINTS : www.allsaints.com AMERICAN RETRO : www.americanretro.fr ANDRÉ : 01 53 26 28 28 APRIL FIRST : 01 42 21 40 23 ASOS : www.asos.com AXARA : www.axara.com BOOHOO : www.boohoo.com BROOKS BROTHERS : www.brooksbrothers.com CHEAP MONDAY : www.cheapmonday.com COS : www.cosstores.com COSMO : 04 42 84 60 82 CYRILLUS : www.cyrillus.fr DIANE VON FURSTENBERG : 01 42 60 22 22 DIESEL : 01 42 36 55 55 DIOR HOMME : 01 40 25 68 78 DOROTHY PERKINS : www.dorothyperkins.com ETAM : www.etam.com FORNARINA : www.fornarina.com FRENCH CONNECTION : www.frenchconnection.com G-SHOCK : www.gshock.com GALERIES LAFAYETTE : 01 42 82 34 56 GERARD DAREL : www.gerarddarel.com GARBSTORE : www.garbstore.com GUCCI : 01 56 68 80 80 H&M : 01 53 20 71 00 IKKS : 01 40 54 83 91 IZAC : www.izac.fr KAREN MILLEN : www.karenmillen.com KIABI : 01 43 72 26 42 KOOKAÏ : 01 43 52 52 52 LALLOU : http://shop.lallou.com/ LANCEL : 01 47 42 37 29 LES PETITES AU PRINTEMPS : 01 42 82 50 00 LEVI’S : eu.levi.com LONGCHAMP : 01 43 16 00 16
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MAJE : 01 42 36 26 26 MANGO : 08 11 60 00 09 MANOUKIAN : 01 45 38 69 47 MARC JACOBS : 01 55 35 02 60 MELLOW YELLOW : www.mellowyellow.fr MINELLI : www.minelli.fr MISS SELFRIDGE : www.missselfridge.com MOA : 01 49 96 65 75 MR HARE : www.mrhare.co.uk NEW LOOK : www.newlook.co.uk NINE WEST : www.ninewest.com PIERRE HARDY : 01 45 55 00 67 PIMKIE : 08 00 37 29 25 PRINTEMPS : 01 42 82 50 00 PULL & BEAR : www.pullbear.com RAPARO SUR LUISAVIAROMA : www.luisaviaroma.com SAN MARINA : 04 42 84 60 98 SARAH WAYNE : 01 48 87 21 70 SEE BY CHLOÉ : www.chloe.com SINEQUANONE : 01 47 78 78 11 STRADIVARIUS : www.e-stradivarius.com UNIQLO : 01 58 18 30 55 URBAN OUTFITTERS : www.urbanoutfitters.com THE KOOPLES : 01 49 26 05 35 THINK GEEK : www.thinkgeek.com TIMBERLAND : www.timberland.com TOPMAN : www.topman.com TOPSHOP : www.topshop.com ZARA : 01 42 68 31 10
BEAUTY CLARINS : 01 45 44 06 19 CHANEL : 08 00 25 50 05 DEMAK UP : www.demakup.fr FARIDA B : faridabparis.com KLAPP : www.klapp-cosmetics.com/fr LUSH : 01 46 28 00 42 O.P.I : www.opi.com WELEDA : www.weleda.fr YVES SAINT LAURENT : 01 42 65 74 59
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