FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE - March/April 2011 - Afro-Luxury Issue by FASHIZBLACK

FASHIZBLACK M A G A Z I N E

LIGHTS ON :

BRAZZAVILLE, DOUALA, LUANDA, DAKAR, ACCRA...

INTERVIEW

DAVID TLALE ON SUCCESS, PARIS & HIS FAVORITE MUSE !

TRENDS

This Spring's ten commandments FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE #MAR-APRIL 2011

FASHIZBLACKA

THE AFROLUXURY ISSUE ! SHOPPING +50 ITEMS FOR SOPHISTICATED MEN

FASHIZ’RUNWAY : MENSW

DOLCE & GABBANA

EMPORIO ARMANI

KENZO

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

MISSONI

PAUL SMITH

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

WEAR FASHION WEEK

VIKTOR & ROLF

GIVENCHY

FALL/WINTER 2011

ETRO

From Milan to Paris, men fashion shows have showcased the color trends for the upcoming fall and winter months. Here is an overview of our editorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favorite silhouettes.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

CONTENTS Page 8 Page 14 Page 16 Page 18 Page 20 Page 22 Page 24 Page 27 Page 28 Page 30 Page 32 Page 34 Page 38 Page 42 Page 48 Page 58 Page 60 Page 66 Page 70 Page 74 Page 76

EDITOR’S NOTE FASHIZ’ACCESS’: Question of time FASHIZ’ TRENDS : Take a green break FASHIZ’ TRENDS : All-White Spring FASHIZ’ TRENDS: Say hello to the urban denim FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Printed bottoms FASHIZ’ TRENDS : The Bermuda is back at it…AGAIN FASHIZ’WISHLIST : How to wear the wide pants ? FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Spring in 10 accessories FASHIZ’ TRENDS : 3,2,1...Print ! FASHIZ’ TRENDS : Get your sandals ! FASHIZ’MODEL : Corey Baptiste FASHIZ’ZOOM : Colors, shapes and prints FASHIZ’ZOOM : The art of texture according to Eric Raisina EDITORIAL : ADAEZE FASHIZ’ZOOM : It’s show time in Douala FASHIZ’FOCUS : Luxurous diving LIGHTS ON : Brazzaville LIGHTS ON : Douala LIGHTS ON : Luanda LIGHTS ON : Accra

Page 78 Page 82 Page 86 Page 88 Page 90 Page 92 Page 94 Page 100 Page 104 Page 113 page 124 Page 130 Page 134 Page 150 Page 152 Page 154 Page 158 Page 160 Page 162

LIGHTS ON : Dakar LIGHTS ON : Cape Town HOTSPOT : A luxury temple in Lagos FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Luxury At Your Feet FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Masculine Luxury FASHIZ’WISHLIST : One Style, One luxury item EDITORIAL : MIX & MATCH FASHIZ’FOCUS : The old guard’s back EDITORIAL : SOLEIL D’OR FASHIZ’ TRENDS : SPRING/SUMMER 2011’s TEN COMMANDENTS FASHIZ’FOCUS : David Tlale, the fashion playwright FASHIZ’FOCUS : Anita Quansah EDITORIAL : GLAMOUROUS SPRING FASHIZ’WISHLIST : For a 5 stars beauty FASHIZ’WISHLIST : Spring Patterns FASHIZ’BEAUTÉ : Zoé Saldana’s Make-up FASHIZ’MUSIC : Andreya Triana CULTURAL AGENDA ADDRESS BOOK

Editorial Director Paola-Audrey Ndengue Fashion Editor-in-chief Raissa Tchoulague Fashion Editors F.R, Paul-Arthur J-M, Stella Mpoy Culture Editors Damien ÂŤKeyzzÂť Ribeiro Beauty Editors Love Voundi & Sam Translators Kim-Kevin Ninkuru, Selina Cooper Production Paola-Audrey Ndengue & Laura Eboa Songue Communication & marketing Laura Eboa Songue Webmastering & graphic design Patrick Privat & Stressy Bithodi

We would like to thank everyone involved in this issue : Paulina Opoku-Gyimah, Daniela Andrade, Annie Payep, Cédric Lobé, Carl-Joseph Mandeng, Edouard Tamba, Sakia Lekoundzou, Nickque Patterson, Crystal Deroche, Absatou Ndiaye, Soda Diarra, Jean-Patrick Ketcha, Audrey Lewat, Calvin Nymon, Manuel Brulé and also Okenwa teams & the Chelsea Penthouse.

ÂŤ Chelsea Penthouse, fantastic location for high end shoots ! Âť http://www.chelseapenthouse.co.uk

EDITOR’S NOTE

Exclusive, Rare, Quintessential... when it comes to Luxury, words are never enough. While perputuating its values of good taste, the luxury industry is still a dream-selling machine based on being aimed at the happy few. And if this glamorous world always seemed to be pretty glossy from the outside, these last months were everything but calm i.e. Hermès fighting to keep its independence from LVMH, Carine Roitfeld said to be fired from France’s luxury bible VOGUE Paris, CEO & creative directors playing musical chairs, Galliano’s racism affair, Paco Rabanne’s comeback on the fashion map..... While the industry keeps going strong with an impressive economic growth- thanks to emerging countries’ consumerist appetite - one

would assume a change is about to come in this already plurisecular institution. And what about Africa ? As you can imagine, the situation is far from being homogenic. This might explain why two countries located barely one mile away from each other - Congo & Senegal - have such different visions of Luxury, which demonstrates once again how multicultural Africa can be. In fact, in 2011, the conception of elitism is not the same depending on you living in Brazzaville (page 66), Accra (page 76) or Luanda (page 74). In this field, South Africa appears to be having the upper hand, thanks

to its pioneer status in terms of African fashion and its will to encourage a ‘buy local’ policy , among other things. Still, there is some work left to be done, and neither young consumers (page 82), nor fabulous designer David Tlale (page 124) will disagree on it. The other role model country is Nigeria, which hosted, from March 10th to March 13th, one of Africa’s biggest fashion exhibit : the Arise Fashion Week. Luxury goes with exclusivity... and high prices. If you dream to possess that beautiful trench coat or that exquisite real leather-made bag, and feel ready to invest, do it wisely : choose ever-classy and high-end items

fitting your personal style (page 90 and page 92).Still don’t know how to wear it ? Take a look at our Spring 10 commandments (page 113), and we promise, those are both affordable and usable from now on ! After all, while everyone cannot afford to purchase some Prada whenever they desire to, a GOOD Beauty or Fashion tip remains a luxury nobody can refuse. And, fortunately, this one is priceless.

P.A.N

FASH

HION

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Access’ QUESTION OF TIME by F.R

olorful, flowery, masculine, futuristic…there are many aesthetic choices for this object, which has evolved from its practical role to becoming a gem in its own right. This spring, we chose the striped one (Tommy Hilfiger) or the masculine version taken from dad or boyfriend for an androgynous effect. From 15 to 200 euros, there’s something for everyone…and every budget!

1. ACCESSORIZE - 40 EUROS 2. AMERICAN APPAREL- 45 EUROS 3. ASOS - 32 EUROS 4. BEN SHERMAN - 50 EUROS 5. CASIO - 40 EUROS 6. DKNY - 149 EUROS 7. GOLA - 20 EUROS 8. GUESS - 160 EUROS 9. ICE WATCH - 60 EUROS 10. JOY SENS - 159 EUROS 11. LACOSTE - 70 EUROS 12. MARC BY MARC JACOBS - 200 EUROS 13. MICHAEL KORS - 180 EUROS 14. NEW LOOK - 15 EUROS 15. NIXON - 65 EUROS

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TRENDS

11.

12.

10.

13.

14.

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15.

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Trends TAKE A GREEN BREAK

MONCLER GRENOBLE

by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

Let it be said, green is the color reference for the season. Surgical, turf, moss, olive, emerald... it is unashamedly and with a certain casualness always a masculine basic. As a true exercice in style, it matches all your fantasies while admitting a certain rigor in style.

1. ROUND NECH SWEATER (A.P.C - 115 EUROS) 2. NEON SUNGLASSES (ITALIAN INDEPENDENT - 195 EUROS) 3. NEON PORTFOLIO (COMME DES GARCONS - 150 EUROS) 4. BOOTS (HERMES - 730 EUROS) 5. TIME TELLER WATCH P (NIXON - 69 EUROS) 6. UPTOWN MOUNTAIN BACKPACK (OBEY - 70 EUROS) 7. HEADPHONES (URBANEARS - 60 EUROS)

KENZO

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

HERM

TRENDS

MES

1. 4.

8. 5. 6.

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TRENDS

ANTONIO BERARDI

YIGAL AZROUÂL ERDEM

5. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI BAND OF OUTSIDERS

4. 6.

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Trends ALL-WHITE SPRING by F.R.

his spring, This spring, it’s all about colors and prints, so going for white is taking a wild turn to the left…but it’s worth it ! Cream, ivory or off-white will be associated with warm tones. Its partners in crime will be fluo accesories (Celine) or golden (Band Of Outsiders). You can also go for a total look which will give you a structured and light silhouette (Antonio Berardi) or a romantic and very british laced look (Erdem). Definitely, a color to adopt!

1. BON PRIX - 40 EUROS 2. DOROTHY PERKINS - 55 EUROS 3. H&M - 50 EUROS 4. RIVER ISLAND 5. PIECES - 9 EUROS 6. NEWLOOK - 33 EUROS 7. MANGO - 60 EUROS 8. TOPSHOP - 55 EUROS

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Trends

SAY HELLO TO THE URBAN DENIM by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

Raw, faded, bleached or chambray, jeans strengthen its presence this season. Omnipresent and universal, it brilliantly dress outfits, shorts, shirts and other menswear accessories.

1. BACKPACK (A.P.C - 150 EUROS) 2. RANTUS NAVY SNEAKERS (CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN - 435 EUROS) 3. PANHEAD JACKET (EDWIN - 180 EUROS) 4. CHAMBRAY SHIRT (HOALEN - 69 EUROS) 5. JEANS (JUNYA WATANABE X LEVI’S 1966 JEANS - 620 EUROS) 6. DENIM BOW TIE (LAWRENCE DESGRANGE - 115 EUROS) 7. DENIM SLEEVELESS VEST (LEVI’S RED TAB - 75 EUROS) 8. NEWSBOY CAP (SOPHNET X CARHARTT - 85 EUROS) 9. BERMUDA (TOPMAN - 35 EUROS)

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

TRENDS

3. 3.

Kanye west

GUCCI

8. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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Wishlist 1 PRINTED BOTTOMS by F.R

rom the classic floral to the now inescapable African or spotted prints, our pants will be adorned with prints for the upcoming months. You can choose to keep it simple by pairing it with a classic blouse or a white men’s (oversized) shirt. In a bold mood ? Dare to mix with a printed top for a tone on tone effect (Jewel by Lisa) or a color matching the printed pants (Rachel Comey).

1. MIM € 20 - 2.NEWLOOK € 35 3.TOPSHOP € 45 - 4.JEWEL BY LISA € 140 - 5.BOOHOO € 20 - 6.DOROTHY PERKINS € 42 - 7.RIVER ISLAND € 40 8.H&M € 20

5 22

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WISHLIST

4 JEWEL BY LISA

RACHEL COMEY

8 FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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Trends

THE BERMUDA IS BACK AT IT…AGAIN by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

MICHAEL BASTIAN

ALEXIS MABI

After its first appearance last summer, the bermuda trend confirms its presence this season. Finally unashamed, the bermuda, or shorts for the most audacious, is now worn on a day out in town. In canvas, denim, baggy, or fitted, it perfectly gets along with all those new urban codes, where traditonal aesthetic meets streetwear and workwear. Paired with a blazer, it becomes THE new summer smoking.

1. NORSE PROJECTS - 125 EUROS 2. B-STORE - 150 EUROS 3. DRIES VAN NOTEN - 250 EUROS 4. 3.1 PHILIP LIM - 275 EUROS 5. COMPAGNY OF WE - 95 EUROS 6. DONDUP - 200 EUROS 7. HENRIK VIBSKOV - 125 EUROS H&M

ETRO

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TRENDS

1. 3. 2. 4.

ILLE

ZARA

7. 6.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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#1 French Online Fashion Magazine. Paris-based, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all about African related Fashion, Good Tips, Beauty, Gossips, & Culture. FOLLOW US!

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TRENDS

Fashiz’

Wishlist

HOW TO WEAR THE WIDE PANTS? by F.R

ith their 70’s trendy look and 90’s minimalism, wide pants are THE spring must-have. Paired with wooden platforms and colored blouse to stay in the season’s trend, they’ll give you a stunning look.

5 4 1. H&M- 30 EUROS 2. TOPSHOP- 45 EUROS 3. ASOS -26 EUROS 4. ANDRE - 129 EUROS 5. MANGO - 15 EUROS FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Fashiz’

Wishlist

SPRING IN 10 ACCESSORIES by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

Here is a selection of 10 accessories, which, as luxurious and voluptuous as they are, announce a season full of promises.

1.MIKARAJA FLAT (CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN – 1695 EUROS) 2.NAVY BACKPACK (GUCCI – 940 EUROS) 3.JESUS NECKLACE PENDANT MAPLE (GOOD WOOD – 50 EUROS) 4.HATE HEART T-SHIRT (ORIGINAL FAKE – 65 EUROS) 5.TRILBY (STETSON – 69 EUROS)

6.HEADPHONES (ULTRASONE EDITION 10 – 2000 EUROS) 7.WOODEN GLASSES (WAITING FOR THE SUN – 130 EUROS) 8.DATE WOODEN WATCH (WEWOOD – 90 EUROS) 9.SNEAKERS MATCH 1 (WISH X ANDROID HOMME – 145 EUROS) 10.CROCODILE BAG (ZAGLIANI – PRIX SUR DEMANDE)

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

TRENDS

2. 1.

7. 8.

10.

9. FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

TRENDS

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Trends 3, 2, 1...PRINT ! by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

Wild, floral, mystic, prints are taking over men’s closet, which is very limited compared to the panel of choices offered to women. Poetic, they can revitalize classical silhouettes. Audacious, they create an esthetic creativity more and more expanded. Total look or with a single piece, make your choice!

GIVENCH

COMME DES GARCONS CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

TRENDS

FLORAL PRINTED BAG JIL SANDER - 1050 EUROS TENNIS SHOES OHEMA OHENE - 75 EUROS

TRILBY HAWAII SURF - 10.50 EUROS

LEOPARD SNEAKERS TRUSSARDI 1911 PRICE NOT DISCLOSED

HAWAI T-SHIRT H&M - 14.95 EUROS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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Trends GET YOUR SANDALS ! by F.R

ith a wardrobe that is gaining in freedom and sophistication, the revival of the first it-shoe for men, the sandal, is no surprise at all. In leather or canvas, it’s all about Jesus-Christ Superstar shoes in its monastic version, or sometimes a trendy redneck searching for authenticity in its affiliation with Birkenstocks. Regardless, remember to sport the openness with discretion and elegance!

1. LOUIS VUITTON - 1250 EUROS 2. KENZO - 350 EUROS 3. HERMES 4. ACNE - 330 EUROS 5. BOTTEGA VENETA 6. DIOR HOMME - 580 EUROS 7. DRIES VAN NOTEN 8. GUCCI 9. PIERRE HARDY - 310 EUROS 10. LANVIN - 320 EUROS

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WISHLIST

2. 3. 4.

13.

10.

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Model COREY BAPTISTE by Paul-Arthur

Jean-Marie

Since he was discovered in 2009, Corey Baptiste is leaving his mark on the modeling world. Originally from Trinidad and Grenadait didn’t take him so long to convince famous designer Donna Karan to choose him. She had him in many different ad campaigns and in her fashion shows. Besides, Karan’s shows are not the only ones where Baptiste unleashed

USPRING /SUMMER 2011 DKNY CAMPAIGN

his seductive look while walking the runway with poise. Last Milan Menswear’s fashion week was an extremely busy week for him: Z Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Canali and

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Calvin Klein, among others, had Baptiste on their runways . And it’s only the beginning. 2011 has started very good for him: Kenzo chose him as the face of its 2011 Spring/Summer campaign.

MODEL

U BENETTON CAMPAIGN SPRING/SUMMER 2010

EXPRESS CARD Nationality : American Agency : VNY Length : 6 ft Shoe size : 11

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Duro Olowu

Fashiz’

Zoom

COLORS, SHAPES AND PRINTS... by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

fter numerous shows in the British capital since the launch of his brand in 2004, for the first time Duro Olowu showcased at the New York Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2011-2012. When asked what motivated him to cross the Atlantic, he replied: «New York has always seemed cool and I like the spirit of the city. It was time, I am married to someone there and I feel more than ever a New Yorker.»

ZOOM

Crédits photos : WireImage, GoRunway.Com

uro Olowu’s name is always synonymous with luxurious and fantastic prints. This season, the Nigerian designer broke free from fashion trendss and got into his own niche. The clothes are characterized by a subtle play on lengths and proportions. The seam is sharp, featuring fabrics with complex graphics and a dichotomy between urban and feminine spirit, paired without major difficulty. It shows a breathtaking exuberance with shocking prints. In addition, you cannot miss the gorgeous tweed suit from the workshop Linton Tweeds, known to be the provider for Coco Chanel. Although Olowu draws heavily from African influence, there are also elements reminiscent of many artistic movements such as Fauvism, characterized by vivid colors sometimes taking precedence over the cuts, Cubism, with very geometric patterns and even a nod to Art Deco. Here, long cocktail dresses are far from inane, often marked by a bit of humor but never fall into the ridiculous. And we can say the same about the printed velvet coats and maxi-cardigans in lurex. James Van Der Zee, an emblematic figure of the Harlem Renaissance and an American photographer known for his portraits of black New Yorkers, is another major influence for this collection. The artist says that his collection is «a manifesto of the diversity and universality of beauty.» Each of the models show that the Olowu woman is international, with a broad and eclectic taste of fashion, but has mostly a bold elegance, that is never in bad taste.

is designs are as exciting as the photographs of Van Der Zee. Olowu, who won the award for Best International Designer at last Africa Fashion Awards, signs a collection worthy of his name, heavy with references. Probably his best and most successful.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

ZOOM

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ZOOM

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ZOOM

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Fashizâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Zoom

THE ART OF TEXTURE ACCORDING TO ERIC RAISINA by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

So efficient and discreet, Eric Raisina succeeds in revolutionizing haute couture by promoting the practice of the haute texture which he alone has the secret. Thanks to his talent, clever blending techniques and fabric combinations that create unique pieces, he drew the attention of the greatest French designers including Christian Lacroix, and Yves Saint Laurent.

ZOOM Originally from Madagascar, Raisina had no intentions of becoming a designer. Indeed, his father wanted him to study business management, meanwhile Raisina turned to Hotel business initially. Nevertheless, he admits a certain fascination with sewing machines since adolescence. «I loved the sound they produced. The continuous movement of needles and bobbins dancing on the fabric fascinated me... And one day I started using my mother’s.” And indeed, everything happens for a reason. After much experience dressmaking, including his sisters who acted as his models, Raisina won the 1993 Young Talent Award at the annual

Festival of Fashion in his country. Following this, the French Embassy granted him a scholarship to study in Textile Design BTS at the Graduate School of Applied Arts in Paris and later at the Institut Francais de la Mode. “There, I touched on everything; painting, drawing, photography, dyeing. That’s when I realized it was fabrication that interested me.» , he said.

A lot of experiences arose such as a visit to Mali where he studied Dogon art (Dogon is a Mali tribe, known for their anthropomorphic sculptures, ed. note) and a trip to Cambodia. He really felt in love with the country and decided to settle down there: «I found many similarities with Madagascar, especially physical. But it was their method of traditional weaving that fascinated me.» With the money obtained after Christian Lacroix sold one of its bustier’s for a modest amount of 15,000 francs (about 2,300 euros), this materials lover thus established his studio in the land of Khmer, in a town called Siem Reap. There, he surrounded himself with a team of twenty artisans; tailors, weavers, dyers and embroiderers. Together, they combined innovative materials with stunning gentleness, beauty and fluidity, like the «Silk Fur», that had Yves Saint Laurent himself «falling in love” and wanting to obtain no less than fifteen feet. It must be said that silk is undoubtedly one of the preferred fabrics of the designer. Not only he uses it in most of his work, but it is also loaded with symbols to him. «This fiber is magical, « explained Raisin, «because the

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ZOOM

Africa Fashion Week

Dublin Fashion Week

Africa New-York Fashion Week

Arise Collective Show

Arise A-A-P

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ZOOM process that is used to produce it, from the fertilization of the silkworm, is unique. And I come from a country where it holds significant value. It is worn by women of a certain social status and is used to wrap the bodies of the dead at their burial. For the Malagasy, it is a noble material of excellence.» Since then, Eric Raisina, his brand and his textures were not slow to showing up on international platforms. Whether in New York, at Arise II Collective Show or for the «Afriqueà-Porter» presentation held in Paris during fashion week, in Johannesburg, Dublin, Bangkok, and in Dakar, where he organizes a show every year, Raisina has unanimous support. From the outset, we find ourselves captivated by the vitality that emanates from its rich creative influences from Africa, Asia and also the West. The accuracy of cuts, reinforced by the incredible work on the materials, are pleasant and even touching. Despite the ever-growing success, Raisina wishes to retain some discretion about his character preferring to highlight pieces from his imagination. Moreover, he always keeps a watchful eye on his native island, where he plans to one day open a fashion school «which will also uncover the talent and beautiful creations of Madagascar.» More than just a designer, Eric Raisina is an exceptional artist, poet of the fabric and creative in all aspects. And he does not fail to showcase it everytime, all over the world.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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Adaeze Photographer: MG Oania - mgoania.com Stylist: Joy Adaeze Assistant: Trenton Dallas Hair: Myki Make up : Gayle Carbajal

African Fabric belt-stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Mercura sunglasses Jewel by Lisa top Jewel by Lisa shorts Tomoko Igarashi necklace Anne Woodman ring Bangles, Belt and Brooch-stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Walter Steiger shoes

Jewel by Lisa dress H&M earrings Betsey Johnson tights Walter Steiger shoes

African Fabric top Jewel by Lisa skirt Earrings, necklaces and bracelets- stylists own

L.A.M.B. top Jewel by Lisa skirt belts-stylists own Tory Burch shoes

Mercura headpiece Mercura bangle Tory Burch dress Earrings and belt- stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Fashiz’

Zoom IT’S SHOWTIME IN DOUALA by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

Pictures credits : Hervé Dunoyer

The economic capital of Cameroon also had its Fashion Week called «Afric’Collection». In the beginning of February, stylists from across the continent rushed their way down the town’s runways. It was an occasion to demonstate their skills and their work as meticulous designers. Among the brands and designers were Abdel Aida, Chrystalix and Esdm-Detou,...

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Focus LUXURIOUS DIVING by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie

Luxury : a word which was always omnipresent, synonymous with wealth, for some of well-being, which could be questionned about its nature and origin. In the field of textile and lifestyle, in the beginning, and before the birth of mass industry in the 20s, it was a craft world, where savoir-faire proved to be crucial, aimed at the elite. Then, gradually, to democratize itself, becoming an economic sector which tends to address a market that is becoming wider. In order to reap ever greater profits, advertising and marketing in particular have become the pillars. But in 2011, what really is luxury?

FOCUS THE SEVENTIES: ORIGINS OF CONTEMPORARY LUXURY. Before the 70s, there was a balance of luxury then built by key players such as Jeanne Lanvin in 1920, Lucien Lelong, JeanJacques Guerlain, Coco Chanel, Paul Poiret and their customers. With others, they had managed to install a luxury industry in response to the growing demand for beautiful objects, following the poor economic situation of the thirties and forties textile shortages. High-end fashion, jewelry and perfume were then signs of social success. At the time, as Mark de Ferrièrere Vayer - a specialist in corporate history, tells it, «the luxury embodies tradition, know-how, precious materials. It symbolizes the scarcity and high cost.» Then, the crisis appeared again. Fashion houses, more and more numerous, then had various difficulties like stifling competition, the constant transformations of society, the consequences of May 68, and the constant evolution of internationalization. Some couldn’t take it and were forced to shut things up, like the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli. The solution? Adapt to people’s needs, be aware of it, further expand the market, attract attention, make people dream. This is what the young Yves Saint Laurent learned quickly enough with what could be considered the first viral marketing campaign in the area, the Opium perfume’s campaign. In 1977, Saint Laurent launched his legendary fragrance which scent, name and bottle suggest flying away, particularly the Japanese memories of the creator. Also, he was the first to bring up desire freely and

even sex, to break with political correctness which was seen in ad campaigns, like the first directed by Helmut Lang based on provocation or the one photographed by Steven Meisel in 2000 with Sophie Dahl as the muse. This change proved to be beneficial, as shown by the continued and ongoing success of Opium, and would become an essential practice in the field.

AND TODAY... Now, the 2009 crisis is just a bad memory in the area. Sales are taking off, advertising expenditures are staggering, there are store openings worldwide, and large luxury groups make profits more than satisfactory. Consider the most famous and important of them, LVMH. The conglomerate headed by Bernard Arnault, made up over 17% of its turnover in 2010. Other industry behemoth, the Italian Prada announced that they ended the year 2010 with a turnover of 2.04 billion

UYSL Opium by Helmut Lang / YSL Opium by Kate Moss

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FOCUS euros, up 31% over the previous year. Regarding the stock market, while industrial indices are lagging behind, the cavalcade of luxury firms seems to be unstoppable. «Luxury benefits altogether from the democratization of prices, the proliferation of shops and a growing clientele with high incomes in emerging countries,» said Joëlle de Montgolfier, of Bain & Company, one of three main marketing strategy consulting firms.

WHAT ARE THE REASONS FOR SUCH A HEALTHY MARKET? Firstly, the appetite of Asian customers for the symbols of Western prosperity. Armed with a relentless economic growth, the new Rich of the East do not hesitate to slam enormous amounts in Cartier watches or Louis Vuitton bags to prove their social success. Luxury is a hit in Asia. And the big groups understood it. They demonstrate efforts to cover up the area. Moreover, there are now about 533 stores of this kind in China alone. There, the number of millionaires (in dollars) has doubled in recent years, and authorities estimate that there will be 4 million «wealthy families» in 2015, against 1.6 million in 2008. The local market for luxury, already the fourth largest in the

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FOCUS world with 13.6 billion euros in sales last year, is growing from 20 to 30% per year. Alongside these new Croesus, there is also another family of buyers: those who cannot yet afford their expensive tastes, but can’t go without and are willing to spend a month salary for a Lady Dior. According to Bain & Company, the Chinese luxury market owes them two-thirds of its growth.

UPrada boutique in Shenzhen, China

in early 2008.»

Then, to overcome the many expenses necessary for the production, brands have found an unstoppable ploy , that can save a lot of money: sub-contracting. Even if they do not brag about it, most indeed subcontracts part of the production to countries where labor costs are low. For example, 100% of the 600 euros cracked leather tote bags’ garment from the American brand Coach is Chinese. There are also the German brand Hugo Boss - 4% of the suits come from the north of Shanghai, or the very British Burberry, which has swapped its historic site of Treorchy, Wales, for a plant near Canton. Another major factor: strong communication, of course. Two years after the crisis, luxurious brands are investing heavily in new advertising campaigns. Thus, the sector has invested $ 1.4 billion in spaces purchase in the first half of 2010 worldwide, according to a study by ZenithOptimedia. «A truly spectacular phenomenon,» said one of the authors of the study, «because the non-luxury advertising market is still far from its performance

WHAT ABOUT AFRICA ? In the continent, the way people perceive luxury was modeled on the very Western pattern. It symbolized an outward sign of wealth and a willingness to live as the Europeans. It is still the case most of the time, only, there is a growing emancipation from these codes. As for English-speaking countries, the focus is on local products, in a desire to emerge, boost the nation economy.In countries like South Africa, Nigeria or Ghana, there was a birth of a true middle class in recent years. This new class is composed mainly of wealthy business men and women, traditional heirs , oil people, luxurious fabrics traders and politicians, among others, and they are all looking for new data and are increasingly turning to local designers. Thus, in Lagos, brands like Tiffany Amber, Ituen Basi or the

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

FOCUS juvenile Bridget Awosika are extremely popular with the ladies of the high-society, at the expense of Armani and Gucci, and others. Here, we are far from the bling-bling, or even of the too ostentatious characteristics. These fashion houses are advocating a stylish and outstanding luxury, based on their savoir-faire. A bit like in the past. Meanwhile, in French-speaking countries such as Gabon or the Ivory Coast, those who are desperate to prove they have succeeded in life are more akin to the Chinese or Russian newly rich. They show little interest in local brands and are alert to the latest trend or the latest luxury item ÂŤMade in West.Âť

DShopping day at Jewel By Lisa boutique (Lagos)

Angola, a Portuguese-speaking country, is a particular case. Although 38% of the population still lives below the poverty line (according to a recent UNDP study), we are witnessing a rise of a certain elite. Trips to Brazil or Portugal exclusively devoted to shopping, parties who have nothing to envy to those of Ibiza, big cars, is their daily rhythm. Moreover, the fashion industry is gaining momentum. As in South Africa, the government has realized the profitability of the sector and therefore provides subsidies to associations and specialized organizations. It also seems that LVMH is considering opening shops in the capital Luanda. According to officials of these brands, Angolans represent 20% of foreign buyers of Burberry Lisbon and 40% for Hugo Boss Lisbon. In sum, in Africa, the concept of luxury, intrinsically speaking, changes from one country to another and to illustrate this, we chose six cities: Accra (Ghana), Dakar (Senegal), Douala (Cameroon), Cape Town ( South Africa), Luanda (Angola) and Brazzaville (Congo).

UNigerian socialite Eku Edewor in Bridget Awosika

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON BRAZZAVILLE

dby Sakia Lek, congolese fashion designer living between Brazzaville and Dallas. www.wix.com/sakial/slek

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : When talking about luxury in Congo luxury in Congo, between Pointe-Noire and Brazzaville, which stands out more?

Sakia Lek: Brazzaville is the

city that holds the largest number of people, and of a more comfortable class. The «rich» or, as they are called today, « charismatics» are very often in the downtown area where you will also find upscale stores, departments, restaurants etc.... There is also Mpila, The plateau, and Batignolles, which is a bit more residential.

Are other regions of the country popular?

S.L : Yes! On the weekends,

it is quite expected to take a ride on the Northern Route, to Faignond Island, for a picnic or some jet-skiing... but

the city of Pointe-Noire (economic capital), I would have to say is a destination of choice for a pleasant and peaceful time. One can be lulled by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean at Malonda Lodge, play beach volleyball at Twiga in the afternoon and lunch at L’Arbalète!

their cuts and fabrics, are still missing in Brazzaville for the most part… Sometimes to get certain pieces, people have to bend over backwards and almost flirt with the informal... This represents a real problem. There is a lack of financial

«it is important that we find a way to remedy this lack of organization in designing» What about fashion ? We know Congolese people are fond of luxury clothing

S.L : From Smalto to Yves

Saint Laurent or Gucci, these brands, that are distinguished by the quality of

means to reach this level, it is important that we find a way to remedy this lack of organization in designing, production, distribution and sale aspect. Today, I am very happy to learn that this is an ongoing proposed project and most importantly, sup-

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UMalonda Lodge

ported by the upper class itself. Finally! We have designers in Brazzaville such as men’s ready-to-wear designer Maître Malonga and Maître Calva who are very gifted, just like Jules Florence. On the women’s side, Marinela, Madame Stikaya, Hippolyte Diayoka... and myself, of course!

As a designer, do you think the posh Congolese customer is ready to consume local brands?

S.L : My approach and

aesthetic is very different from designers living in Brazzaville, particularly because of the experiences I have had. Having dealt with an international clientele who had a certain standard, I must say that I am in a position where I understand both the client and designer. The upper classes are mature enough to consume local, but they expect worthy products from the designers and that are appropriate to their

BRAZZAVILLE LUXURY MINI-GUIDE: * Restaurant : Le Terminalia (dinner overlooking the Congo river), Le Nénuphar. * Club : Le Ram Dam (key location for Brazzaville nightlife). * Beauty : Maryse Cosmétiques (high-end beauty products). * Fashion : L’air du Temps, Rêve de Femme, La Joconde Boutique (all 3 in Brazzaville).

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UNénuphar Restaurant

lifestyle (travel, meetings, galas, charity and other social events...), not to forget that these items should be adequately available. On the other hand, the Congolese designers should find the right balance between creative expression and commercial success. Both parties could benefit from working together, but for now, potential customers are still buying Italian or French, and Congolese designers who made it can be counted on

one hand.

What is «In» and «Out» in Brazzaville these days?

S.L : Currently in Brazzaville,

USakia Lek Créations

Ralph Lauren’s preppy look is still very much of a craze. But I must say that loincloth is gaining more and more ground...

concerning the whole youth, American artists very often dictate the trend. These days, the skinny jeans, 80s inpired t-shirts and more so everything that is a bit of the retro look, is very IN right now with the youth. Adults, of course, are somewhat more conventional, and the

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON DOUALA

dBy Annie Payep, journalist at Vox Africa (Central Africa) and CĂŠdric LobĂŠ, Expatriate and Executive chief at Heart Angel France (theheartangel.com).

What is the conception of luxury in Cameroon?

Annie Payep: In Cameroon,

when someone says they live in luxury, they have a nice house, nice cars, are always surrounded by beautiful women (if a man) and wear designer items. They are someone who can afford a few perks beyond their vital needs. And above all, they have to own a very big car and take holidays in Europe. The trappings of wealth are therefore of extreme importance!

CEdric LobE:

From my point of view, the luxury industry has not even developed itself in Cameroon yet, particularly because of socioeconomic circumstances. Indeed, consumption in the luxury industry is not for the wealthy as you might think but rather the middle class. It sounds incredible when

you know the astronomical sums that the billionaires can spend in shops abroad, but the average citizen, having a suitable work situation sees luxury as a pleasure, a desire to stand out and above all to affirm his/her professional success. As a result, they want to obtain the latest trendy bag or the latest pair of designer shoes on which they had a crush. Now in Cameroon, the middle class does not exist, the gap is too wide between rich and poor, the contrast is staggering. The opening of a luxury department store would not necessarily be profitable when you consider that the African mentality promotes the pleasure to make purchases from abroad. Moreover, the trouble of counterfeiting in Asia also affects Africa. The lack of quotas, due to agreements between the Chinese government and African

countries, is the origin of the increasing of its products in the markets. Nowadays, it becomes even more difficult to distinguish the real from the counterfeit, and buying the counterfeit product provides the Cameroonian a sense of belonging to a higher social class.

What is the city with the highest concentration of affluent people (Douala or Yaounde)?

A.P : Hard to say! Douala

being essentially an economically affluent city primarily comprised of businessmen, it has been easier to see beautiful houses from the ground. But increasingly Yaounde, where at one point city officials were so poor, now has as much as Douala, with its high-level officials whose life borders on arrogance and no longer hesitate to display their wealth.

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ULe Boj

I think this is because at the time of former president (Ahmadou Ahidjo), officers were expected to be modest as not to risk going to jail. Today, the more advanced you get in the management of public affairs the more you will flaunt your «success.»

What are the most exclusive neighbourhoods?

A.P : the two major cities

(Douala & Yaoundé) have areas that have been named after U.S. cities to give it a sense of exclusivity for

wealthy individuals. For example, there is Santa Barbara (found both in Douala to Yaounde) and Hawaii in Yaounde. Odja with Kuwait City, and Bastos Ekoumdoum are also highly sought after!

C.L:

In Douala, the most exclusive residential neighborhoods are Bonapriso, Bonanjo, Akwa and Bonamoussadi. Mention may also be attended to Makèpè where stars such as singer Petit Pays resides,

DOUALA LUXURY MINI-GUIDE: * Restaurant : Le BOJ, Le Cigale, Le Bistro Latin * Club : L ‘Olympia, Kiss Me and le Privé for the golden youth, and George Vfor a more adult clientele * Beauty : Chez Louise (at Marché des Fleurs). *Fashion : Mango, Stradel’s, Guess, Celio and City Sport.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

SPECIAL LUXURY They are rather consumed by the latest trends and new Western collections. In addition, designers are focusing their collections around the African fabrics that do not necessarily win over young people. The African textile is associated, in their minds, with clothing that is coated in traditional or cultural events. We cannot blame the local designers for wanting to show the richness of Africa through their art, but the reality is not one to which young people aspire.

Who are the designers of Cameroon with the «luxury» label ? UJemann’s design

and the Nkotto neighborhood that international footballers Samuel Eto’o Fils and Patrick Mboma call home.

Why does Cameroon’s wealthy consumers do not support local designers ? Is it because of a lack of designers, or a preference for Western designers?

A.P : As I said earlier, it is a

question of general mentality, mentality thinness or perhaps both. It is normal because both the president and ministers, any D.G, the entertainment personalities and other cited references

UJohn’s fashion show

do not highlight national heritage, everyone does the same thing. They spend their holidays and command their Louis XIV sofas abroad,among other things. They only wear jackets and ties... well, we dress European to get respect. There are many designers who are struggling but they are given no chance, or no credit.

C.L Local ready-to-wear

clothing is rarely worn, not because of a lack of hypothetical creativity but rather because luxury is idealized through the Western brands. Furthermore, the youth is not really interested in local designers.

A.P : We have great designers

like Martial Tapolo and Anggy Haïf that are not living in Cameroon. But there is also John Kouoh and Theresa Ngann that are settled here and have a loyal clientele.

C.L : Parfait Behen is a local

designer known for dressing the elite and local stars. We should also mention the name of the late Jemann. His dresses were remarkable.

Does the Cameroonian state consider fashion as a profitable and employable creative industry?

A.P : The first lady of Came-

roon has often honored loin-

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SPECIAL LUXURY cloth, however, the textile industry is not really a priority here. Therefore the development of a luxury industry in this sector has yet to arrive... Training in sewing exist until high-school diploma, but then, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing! Funds are often given but not much. Thusly, those who decide to

invest anyway are not being subsidised, and their prices are far beyond the means of Cameroon random people.

UClub George V

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON LUANDA dDaniela Andrade, young designer living between Luanda ( Angola ) and Portugal.

How did the luxury industry evolved in Angola during the first decade of the new millennium?

Daniela Andrade: The Angolan

market began to grow shortly after the end of the Civil War (2002). There were already shops that aimed at those consumers before the war, such as Casa Paris that is still in business today. But of course, we cannot compare the situation before and after. Today, the developments of the media and communication channels have opened Angola to the world, other lifestyles, and this has obviously influenced the emergence of a significant luxury market. CHOCOLATE fashion magazine is the country’s most widely read, and was created in this context and is aimed at women from middle or higher class who have the means and inclination to afford branded products to differentiate them-

selves, and claim they belong to an elite group. Outside the media, the creative environment has better organized, especially around lounges and shows. In the field, no other event agency has worked as much as STEPMODELS, which was founded in 2001 and managed by Karina Barbosa and Júnior Kayaya. This is the duo behind the countries largest Fashion / Luxury events (ModaLuanda and Belas Fashion Shopping among others). During these events there is a real concentration of the country’s best talents in fashion and entertainment. They also had artists like Jay Z or R. Kelly come to Luanda. This whole phenomenon has made the advertising industry grow more and more dynamic and allow brands to have a presence here, because there is clearly a desire by a portion of the population to consume luxury. Many also do not hesitate to visit Sao Paulo and Lisbon several times a year , just to go shopping.

Who are the most prominent designers to wealthy clients?

D.A : Among international desi-

gners, I would have to say Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dolce Gabbana, Dior, Versace, Fatima Lopes, BCBG Max Azria and Joao Rolo primarily. As for local brands, Lisete Pote (who showcased at the Africa Fashion Week), Proyecto Mental by Tekassala & Shunnoz Lucrécria Moreira, Dina Simão, Ginga Neto and Nadir Tati.

So, do Angolans primarily buy Angolan products?

D.A :I noticed that many Ango-

lans buy from abroad manufacturers, especially when it comes to fashion. In fact, because our local scene developed not so long ago (with events such as ModaLuanda, the first Angolan Fashion Week), we do not

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UProyecto Mental by Shunnoz & Tekasala at the Modalisboa fashion week ( Lisbon)

yet have substantial production facilities. However it is beginning to change, since the government has approved a plan to revive the textile industry within the next 5 years. What is happening in fashion is also happening in other commerce areas that are rising from the ashes of the Civil War.

Can you tell us what is currently IN and OUT of fashion in Luanda?

particularly because of the huge impact of their television shows. If one of the main characters of these shows adopt a hairstyle, a few days later, or the following week, all the girls will do the same. It’s been the case for «Tais Araujo,» a T.V. show that is shown here. The lead actress had a very curly and long hair cut, and its impact was so strong that even after the show was off the air, many young women continued to adopt this style in particular. Amber Rose, Beyoncé & Rihanna are also well represented here in terms of trends (many young girls have shaved their head and dyed it blond to look like Amber). Bustier dresses, flashy colors and loincloth are still in style. Even men do not hesitate to go to social events wearing traditional cloth shirts. And finally, I must say that there is a budding art/music scene. Everybody can SING! And of course, it sets the trends since every new artist will have his own style, and everyone will want to copy. What’s Out: The « Zero makeup” look, hair / weaves that are poorly maintained and even a bad manicure. The Angolans are very conscious about the image they convey. 5 years ago, there were several young women that would go out without makeup. Today, applying makeup has become second nature, and the MAC brand is very popular here.

D.A : Trends in Luanda are not very

LUANDA LUXURY MINI-GUIDE: * Restaurant : The Caribe, Chill Out, Miami and Cais de quatro: the places to be! * Club : Don Q, and the Eden Club. * Beauty : The Mize Berenguel salon. *Fashion : Casa Paris and at Ana Isabel

different from European trends. However, what I have noticed is the influence of Brazilian fashion,

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON ACCRA

by Paulina Opoku-Gyimah, Blogger and author of GhanaRising.blogspot.com.

At the very heart of west Africa’s somewhat troubled region, Ghana, was firmly put on the map by the Obamas’ in July 2009. Little wonder this little diamond in the rough was described as the, ‘next big tourist hotspot’ by Forbes magazine -thanks to its heartening economic growth and drop in poverty figures. Ghana, once famed for commodities such as: cocoa, Shea butter, chocolate and gold, -has recently struck oil, twice. Thus, this once bashful and conservative nation, a country that frowns upon public displays of wealth, -and where boasting about one’s personal net worth is viewed as crass -is now unapologetically fizzing and buzzing to the pop of champagne bottles. A fabulously chilled out time in Monsoon’s cigar bar, or a night of hard partying at XL Night club and Citizen Kofi in Osu, or head to the founder of Ghanaian Hip-Life, musician Reggie Rockstones’ Grand Papazz for, “a night when you want to do it big” states Love Kyei, an Afropolitian living in Australia who frequents Accra regularly. Newly visible, this aspirational group is not to be confused with the hidden, 1% few who acquired their vast wealth through politics, -nor the ultra rich like *Araba Badu, whose family houses its numerous thoroughbred horses at Accra Polo Club. An eclectic mix of upwardly mobile, innovative beautiful people, -some working 9 to 5 in Accra’s burgeoning creative industries, some are trailblazers returning back to Ghana after years in the west, many are models, back in town after months of

working in South Africa. Ex bankers, aspiring actresses and of course, some are part of the growing band of successful, globally celebrated, hot fashionistas. We can mention television presenters Doreen Andoh and Jocelyn Dumas, or musicians such as Nana Boroo, Jon Germain and Jane Awindor aka Efya. When it comes to designers, Aisha Obuobi and Salimi Akil are not to forget, as well as actresses Yvonne Nelson and Oscar de la Renta fan, Nadia Buari. It girls/models Nana Kyei, Chantell Dapaah, Sheila Boakye Agyemang, society beauty, Virna Michels the wife of actor Majid Michels and journalists, Kweku Ansah and Sefa Gohoho are all stylish and of the moment. With the growing trend in fashionable African blogs, ezines and magazines celebrating the aforementioned -it wouldn’t be long before the west catches-up and

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

UChristie Brown fashion show

SPECIAL LUXURY mainstream glossies are fill with all their fashionable happenings. The beautiful soft glossy black hair comes courtesy of her personal hairstylist or the uber exclusive globe trotting hair and fashion stylists at Lamodelle, -a Luxury Styling team that offers clients, a comprehensive head-to-toe image consultation and a tailored made styling services to suit personal tastes, lifestyles and budgets. Stylish without the frou frou ostentation of yesteryear, Nana Kyei’s heading to the African Regent Hotel for a girly afternoon of champagne and laughter with her ex-pat friends and is looking forward to the complimentary goody bag that comes with said hotel’s ‘Girl’s Table’ package. Just another ordinary day in Accra? “Yes“, says Nana Kyei, “I’m staying until six, I’ll then head back home to rest, were off to XL tonight”. Anglo-Ghanaian Phyllis Taylor, the designer behind globally renowned DModel Soraya Khalil

label -Sika, also travels frequently to Ghana to design, create, source materials and meet up with her Accra based seamstresses. But not all of Ghana’s fash-pack are in Ghana to work. When Ghanaian/Jamaican model, Soraya Khalil lands in Accra, -its time to catch up with her family and friends and to chill out. “I prefer Exclusive, also known as XL night club, -it’s got a mature crowd, really chilled out, and just as the name suggests, -it’s very exclusive too.” Ms Khalil also enjoys dinning out and shopping, -the latter being the hobby of choice for Accra’s fash-pack. Kofi Ansah, -arguably Ghana’s only real couturier’s creations are to die-for. Coveted by the crème de la crème of Accra’s society and with a growing fan base that include Belinda Baidoo and Chantell Dapaah, his clientele reads like the Who’s Who of Ghanaian society. Naturally for many, Mr Ansah’s designs are reverie, and a world away. Thus for many of Ghana’s fash-pack, -a dressmaker of choice is on speed dial. Counting model Soraya Khalil, “the best thing about Ghana is that there are a lot of designers so as opposed to going to an actual boutique I usually have my clothes made, that way I can choose my design, style, fabric and have it fitted too for perfection”. For many, the first point of call is Viva boutique. An exclusive treasure trove of high-end labels including: Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Moschino, D&G, Chloe, La Perla -and Marina Rinaldi for the more curvaceous woman. They also stock shoes by Sergio Rossi, Pollini, Versace et al. -And actresses Yvonne Nelson and Nadia Buari and society beauty, Caroline Ama Ennin -are fans. Gone are the days when middle

Ghana relied solely on water and local black Soap -and even though its worth noting that said soap, has many supporters amongst them, British Zimbabwean Style icon and chanteuse, Shingai from Noisettes -Accra’s luxury consumers use brands such as: Olay, loved by Chantell Dapaah, Revlon, Palmers, Fashion Fair, L’Oreal, Estée Lauder -and locally made brands like Priscilla Yobo’s L’ane Organics are de rigueur. 100% natural and environmentally sound -her Cocoa Mint Lip balm’s a firm favourite. But Accra’s fashion elite are not having it all, their own way. Even though new concierge services are springing up daily to meet their growing needs, there are some limits. The Diptyque candles, Wedgwood crockery, the much coveted Jimmy Choo shoes, Mulberry it-bags et al, -must all be purchased abroad and the much loved Rose champagne is nonvintage but who’s complaining ?

ACCRA LUXURY MINIGUIDE * Restaurant : La Chaumière (French food), Monsoon ( Calamari & Sushi) Bella Roma (Italian food) et Buku (high quality ghanaian, togolese, nigerian and senegalese food) * Clubs : Exclusive Club & Citizen Kofi * Beauty : Hue’s Visage (Available brands : Mary Kay, Victoria’s Secret, MAC, IMAN, Smashbox, Bobbi Brown etc..) * Fashion : Viva Boutique & Jil Store (high-end brands & personal shopping services ) .

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON DAKAR

By Absatou Ndiaye, Freelance Writer and Soda Diarra, university graduate in Sports Development and International Sustainable tourism. Dakar is a city undergoing changes that seeks to position itself as a hub of culture in sub-Saharan Africa. In less than 3 years, infrastructure development has been accompanied by a rise in real estate and the cultural sector. With the push of luxury hotels (the Radisson Blu, the 5 Stars Intercontinental Hotel opening in 2014), and shopping malls (Sea Plaza), the capital has seen a transformation of unprecedented urban culture, and the World Festival of Black Arts (FESMAN) that took place there in December 2010 is an example.

Now, on fashion in particular, the new Dakar is now slowly showing an influence, with extensive fashion shows. The Dakar Fashion Week organized by Adama Paris-which has been a meeting place for the

UBenetton Dakar

designers of the continent is now establishing itself as a benchmark for meeting young African designers. But does the revival of the

fashion industry in Senegal really have an influence on the population? The golden youth new generation of Dakar has appro-

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URadisson Blu hotel, Dakar

priated all the most popular places in the capital. The new hotels, casinos and free areas on the Corniche are crowded almost all week long with an affluent and carefree population. But you will recognize them not necessarily with a Chanel bag or high-end dress. Even if affluent young people mastered the art of an ostentatious style of dress, it does not necessarily correspond to the codes we are accustomed to. Western influence has had an unexpected effect on

young Senegalese. Indeed, it is rare to see people strutting in collections of major designers unless they are expatriates. Most young people dress in street wear or clothing from a foreign brand (France, Italy, USA). Although the outfits are not name brands, they remain almost inaccessible to less affluent members of the population. This can be explained in different ways. Clothes are expensive primarily because the sellers are content to convert the purchase price from Euro to Franc CFA and

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

DAKAR LUXURY MINI-GUIDE * Restaurant : L’ Alcôve, La Fourchette, Le Lodge * Club : L’Opium, Le Nirvana, Le Duplex * Beauty : Chez Chazly, Grain de Beauté, Le Lamantin Beach * Fashion : Tabou Boutique (RTW & LUXURY Accessories), SEA PLAZA Mall , Nassima boutique .

SPECIAL LUXURY add the shipping cost. For example, a pair of jeans at 60 euros (40.000 FCFA) can easily sell up to 20% more because of its provenance. There’s also the fact that there is very little brand representatives in Senegal. MANGO has recently opened but is only accessible to a relatively affluent customership. With the market being flooded by massive imports, a new economic strategy should be adopted to direct customers to the Dakar designers with a rather modern or Western aesthetic.

Faguèye Ba. Let’s say the traditional luxury clothing is as developed as the European luxury sector. Some have even devoted solely to making scarves, shoes or bags. In the same vein, luxury hair salons reserved for customers able to pay a few hundred dollars for a temporary hairstyle had no problems prospering. Long before the popularity of the lace-front, salons specialized in the sale and inputting of extensions for sometimes up to 1 million CFA francs (roughly 1500 Euros). 3n

If contemporary Senegalese fashion still has a way to go, then this is not the case for the traditional fashion, which has not been affected by the crisis. All occasions are seen as an excuse to get an outfit. Apart from religious festivals, weddings or christenings, cocktail parties (which are very common in wealthier families) are all means for everyone to showcase the originality and brilliance of their outfit. Both men and women no longer hesitate to go to their tailors to make unique outfits as seen on celebrities such as Viviane Ndour. The phenomenon of fashion houses is relatively recent. The tailors that were once in neighborhoods and markets, are now specializing in the luxury sector and setting up in residential areas (such as The Almadies) and maintain an exclusive clientele willing to pay exorbitant sums of money for a single outfit made of the most precious fabrics and embroidered with care. The traditional costume is essential for every Friday (day of prayer), and these outfits are boubou robe made with thioup (indigo technique from Mali), Gagnila, Bazin, low waist cut for girls and cuts called «Obasanjo» for boys. Pioneers in this field are Diouma Dieng Diakhaté or Colle Sow Ardo and have allowed several daring designers to go into opening their own name, such as Mame

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

UTabou Store

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USira Vision Edition 2010

U1,2,3 store, Sea Plaza mall

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

LIGHTS ON CAPE TOWN Interview made by Audrey Lewat. Photos by Zintle Raziya & Asanda Madosi

South Africa’s second town, Cape Town, has quickly but surely grew up to be one of the country’s fashion powerhouses, thanks to its design schools, fashion weeks or the birth of a new generation of Style addicts. This being said, apart from celebrities wives or successful designers, how did the young consumers apprehend the world of luxury ? What is their perception of southafrican designs ? I met 3 young students, who can be labeled as being part of Cape Town’s golden youth. Tebe ( 18, fashion & theater lover ), Timothy ( 21, traveler and sports fan ) and Iman Allie ( 18, fashionista and party girl ) agreed on telling me EVERYTHING and being fearless to speak their minds .

How would you define luxury ?

Iman:

Well, luxury items are things that you don’t need for survival purposes. They are of a certain class and they make you feel as though they are indispensable.

Tebe: Without a doubt, I

would say a Burberry bag of mine; not only is it Burberry but it is also very practical, it is quite large so I feel less guilty about owing it be-

« those internationally known items are marketed better than our South African brands» Tebe: Luxury is expensive,

for one. It is good quality material and long-lasting, it attracts attention.

Tim: Luxury is sophisticated,

it’s simple. It’s a good fit and it last considerably longer than other items.

What is the favorite luxury item that you own and the item you are dying to have ?

cause I use it so much and I would love to own a Cartier Love bracelet.

Iman: I own a pair of Christian Louboutin brogues and I am dying to have the “Alexa” bag by Mulberry named after Alexa Chung

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and Gucci stilettos, they are called “The Iman”. I’m not sure who they are named after but I’m going to wear like them like they were made for me !

What is your favorite luxury store ?

Iman: Christian Louboutin ! Tebe: Chanel. When you

walk in any of the Chanel stores you always feel a sense of rareness about the place, it is magical.

We can’t help but notice that you have only mentioned Western luxury brands, what about the local South African luxury brands ?

Tim: Well, they are very

few local brands who do luxury items in such a way that I would be inclined to buy them. And those internationally known items are marketed better than our South African brands, through fashion shows, magazines,

LUXURY GUIDE IN CAPE TOWN : * Restaurant : Aubergine, Green, The Beluga and Salushi. * Club : Faz, Tiger Tiger and 91. * Beauty : Refresh, Glitz & Glam Hair, Nails and Beauty. * Fashion : Long Street & Cavendish Square stores.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

SPECIAL LUXURY brands always do the same of everything, it is always African prints and African this and African that… so I have developed my own immunity towards it. The less ethnic or afro- centric brands do not do luxury as I would like to buy it; especially bags although Malcolm Kluk Cgdt is one of my few favorite South African brands.

Would say that luxury items are made better abroad ?

Tebe: I think the workforce

adverts… I’ve been in the fashion business and it is true that when a celebrity wears a certain brand, it adds value to the brand. I saw Ronaldo in a Gucci suit and I would love to have one too. If he was to wear a suit made by Darkie (South African designer), I’d be more inclined to see what else Darkie has in store.

Iman: I have some favo-

rite luxury brands in South Africa namely Abigail Betz and Kluk Cgdt. But the problem that I find with most of those brands is that they are very desperate to get South

African brands out into the market so their advertising is pretty much over the top. I relate more the Western brands because they reflect more of my style and most definitely because of the influence that celebrities have on brands, as a whole we aspire to that level of glamour and a bag or a pair of heels tends to make us feel as though we are closer to it.

Tebe: I have a very limited

exposure to South African luxury but that is partly my fault and their own too. I feel as though most of those

and the demand for luxury abroad is greater than it is here. I mean South Africa is still developing in all sorts of scales, and especially in fashion. Thus we haven’t evolved in terms of luxury as yet. Furthermore, it is safe to say that we have bigger issues in our countries than they do in Western countries, so the importance that we accord to fashion is relatively low.

Tim : Not necessarily made

better, I think that Africa has the capacity to produce just as good of luxury items as any other continent but the fashion trends seems to get to the Western countries first, in terms of fashion shows and magazine spreads before it reaches us. So we are always a bit behind and thus it is harder to compete with the Western countries.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

SPECIAL LUXE

We heard there were more and more contraband..

Tim: They are called “fong-

Tebe: When I was younger,

kongs” in South Africa. On an ethical basis, I do think it is wrong but honestly, if I knew I would be getting away with wearing fakes with nobody ever finding and that I liked the item in question; I would wear it.

I thought it was acceptable, but with maturity, I am completely opposed to it. I would rather have no bag at all than to have a fake. And when I see people wearing designer’s items, I always analyze their whole outfit to figure out if they can really afford the luxury item in question; if the outfit doesn’t follow

through… it’s probably a fake.

Iman: I am opposed to it. Ori-

ginality counts to me and I don’t get the same feeling from a fake that I would from the real thing. I would go further to say that it is not about the way people see you but it is more about how the piece of luxury makes you feel, not how it is perceived.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Fashiz’

Hotspot A LUXURY TEMPLE IN LAGOS by Paul-Arthur

Jean-Marie

TEMPLE MUSE is a nigerian version of Barneys in the country’s metropolis. It has became the it-place when it comes to luxury and it’s also a great place to promote and garner designers work. Created by Wadhwani brothers, Avi and Kabir, respectively former buyer for the Selfridges conceptstore in London and publicist, Temple Muse is an unique structure that resembles nothing else in Lagos. On top of being an exposure to Nigerian savoir-faire in the fashion area, it also offers a large variety of articles and the opulent ambience paired

with the smart and elaborated decor only adds a very positive plus in the whole package. Among the local brands that can be seen at Temple Muse are the one and only Jewel By Lisa, Zebra, Lalique, Amranpali, Lladro, Sunny Rose, and many international brands such as Christie Brown, Duro Olowu, Dunhill, True Religion and even Hermès.3n

ADDRESS Temple Muse 8 Sanusi Fafunwa Street, Victoria Island, Lagos. +234 1735 7842 +234 70 2877 0691 www.temple-muse.com

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

HOTSPOT

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Fashiz’

Wishlist LUXURY AT YOUR FEET by F.R

hoes are more than ever the best way to celebrate luxury and felinity. Here is our season’s selection.

1. BRIAN ATWOOD - 650 EUROS 2. MARC JACOBS - 595 EUROS 3. MIU MIU - 340 EUROS 4. PIERRE HARDY - 500 EUROS 5. ALEXANDER WANG - 440 EUROS 6. CASADEI - 691 EUROS 7. FENDI - 598 EUROS 8. LOUBOUTIN - 550 EUROS 9. ALAIA1 - 300 EUROS 10. CHLOE - 590 EUROS 11. GIAMBATISTA VALLI - 588 EUROS 12. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA - 940 EUROS 13. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN - 860 EUROS 14. MARNI - 400 EUROS 15. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI - 1200 EUROS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

WISHLIST

2. 7. 5.

2. 9.

11.

10.

12.

13.

14.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

15.

Fashiz’

Wishlist MASCULINE LUXURY by Stella-Tshika Mpoy

Let it be said, luxury is no longer a women-only pleasure. It must now be shared with Men, whore are not hesitating at all when it comes to redefine excellence’s codes.

1. CUFFLINKS INLAID WITH WHITE MOTHER OF PEARL (ALAIN FIGARET – 65 EUROS) 2.AQUA FAHRENHEIT PERFUME (DIOR À PARTIR DE 62,70 EUROS) 3.SHOES WITH PHILE DIAMONDS (AUBERCY – PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST) 4.JOHN LENNON BOX SET SPECIAL EDITION PENS (MONTBLANC - ROLLERBALL 510 EUROS, 510 EUROS BALLPOINT PEN, BALLPOINT PEN 680 EUROS) 5.FOLDABLE SUNGLASSES STEVE MCQUEEN

(PERSOL – FROM 290 EUROS) 6.ULTRA THIN EMPERADOR COUSIN WATCH (PIAGET – PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST) 7.SAVILE HOUSE OR THE ART OF THE TAILORED SUIT 8.ARNAUD TOWEL (ZILLI – 49,50 EUROS) 9.KEYCHAINS (ST DUPONT – 95 EUROS)

TRENDS

2. 3.

3.1 PHILIP LIM

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Fashiz’

Wishlist

ONE STYLE, ONE LUXURY ITEM by F.R

ant to arce be aque little extravagant by C/ THE TOMBOY la Saint-Valentin est l’occasion de toutes les folies, FASHIZexceptionally yourself to vous quelques objets et gadgets pour BLACK treating a sélectionné pour some faire Luxury? Our la editors chose le jour Basis to (et thelesAndrogyne, Alexander monter température venu autres joursthe aussi a few TIMELESS items for you to possibly Wang blazer borrowed codes from mend’ailleurs...) INVEST in, depending on your style. swear with cut details that made the designer famous. So, have a piece in your dressing room. A/ THE FASHIONISTA The Holy Christian Louboutin «Pigalle» shoes went from being Must-Haves to a real Collector’s item status. The famous red soles will trample the paving stones for a few more decades.

B/ THE BOURGEOIS LADY-LIKE A true symbol of bourgeois figure, the Hermès scarf spans throught the years without a wrinkle. Thanks to the thousand and one ways that exist to tie it, it will complement a chic and classic look.

D/ THE BLING BLING LOVER Sophisticated and with just the right dose of logos to prove its authenticity, the Gucci Boston bag will go to the arms of all the show-off fashionistas

E/ THE AFRICANISTA The Jewel By Lisa cocktail Dress is representative of this new African Luxury, that wants to be the worthy heir of local aesthetics but also steeped in modernity.

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

WISHLIST

E JEWEL BY LISA - 440 EUROS

ALEXANDER WANG - 410 EUROS

HERMES - 292 EUROS

A CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN - 400 EUROS

GUCCI - 800 EUROS

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

Mix & Match Prints, chunky jewelry and simple pieces : this 2011 spring , we dare (almost) everything. Directed by Paola-Audrey Ndengue Storyboard: Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie Photographer: Manuel BrulĂŠ Stylist: Calvin Nymon Make up Artist: Yann Boussand Hair: Sonee FLower Assistant: Chris Tanner & Pauline Montauban Model: Marie Loulawa

Long printed dress : Stella Jeans, Rings & Bracelets: K-Mo and Galliano. Necklace: Basil Soda Blastron: Vilsdol De Arce

Turban : wax cloth. / Jacket: Jean-Paul Jitrois / Multicolor tank top: Galliano.

Cream jacket open in the back: Dress : Stella Jeans, Basil Soda. wedges: KTZ

Printed dress and wedges: KTZ

Ring: K-MO. Cream jacket open in the back: Basil Soda.

FOCUS

Fashiz’

Focus THE OLD GUARD’S COMEBACK

They made fashion history and contributed to the parisian look reputation all over the world. After long years of rising, those labels have gone through the wringer. The death of the main designer, bad sales or a fatal reputation of an obselete brand, those are a few examples. Then we thought they were definitively gone and would only appear again in a few fashion exhibitions where their pieces would be showcased here and there... by Paul-Arthur

Jean-Marie

UCarven

dLittle did we know about investors and

important groups, and their will and power to revive french savoir-faire legends by betting on young designers to carry on the reputation of those brands without falling in a copy-paste cliche. For about four years, we’ve been noticing those big labels’s comeback on top of their game, with their success and talent back on track. Carven, Cacharel and recently Paco Rabanne are among those used-to-be-hot labels that are now making their way back on top.

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Carven’s parisian chic Created by Carmen de Tommaso in 1944, Carven offered a line combining sobriety, elegance and fonctionnality. Her creations, mainly looking for comfort and a strong dose of class were therefore not extremely complex but rather pragmatic. Daring and original, Carmen de Tommaso, then nicknamed Madame Carven, was filled with ideas that never ceased to surprise Paris aristocraty. For example, hundreds of samples were

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

FOCUS nine pieces such as the Liberty print or crepe blouse, he quickly made a name for himself, and was known for his romantic style that make all dreamy women and young girls fall for. His notoriety traveled the world because of fashion celebrities’ support like Emmanuelle Khan and Sarah Moon. It was hard to imagine that this success would ever end. But that’s what happened. In 2009, while the brand was only producing perfumes, it announced its return on the runways, after a succesUGuillaume Henry

thrown over the city in white and green mini-parachutes - her favorite color - to promote her new perfume release. Unfortunately, the brand showed lack of understanding in the new codes and couldn’t keep up with its time, which made it close business. It was only in 2008, when the group SCM decided to buy the label that it started to rise from its ashes. To reboost Carven, Guillame Henry was hired as the artistic director. As a british stylist that worked with Givenchy and Paule Ka, the magic started to operate. He quickly won the hearts of the new fashionistas and fashion jetset. His strategy: exclusively use a few archives from the label and to slowly build a new DNA while respecting Carmen de Tommaso’s desires. Carven’s 2011 girl is chic all in simplicity,courteous, ingenue, and masters her sensuality with wisdom. Last collection, destined to spring and summer, is inspired by Antic Greece. Cuts are artisticly fuzzy, short and the prints are audacious. In Henry’s hands, Carven found back all its grace. Hallelujah?

Cacharel or french romanticism Former modelist and professional tailor, Jean Bousquet decided in 1958 to leave his hometown Nimes and to try the parisian adventure. Creating timeless femi-

UCacharel

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FOCUS

UCédric Charlier

sion of attempts that all grew to be a flop. Those attempts were led by Estrella Archs, Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto to tell a few. That time around, Cedric Charlier, 33 years old belgian, is at the head of artistic direction. He’s a former assistant of Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and has a degree from Cambre school. His different prestations have been acclamed by the critics and the audience. For his third collection as part of the label, he puts candor and light femininity as the motto of the collection. Models are wearing blouses with pants or skirts nicely colored for ones and smartly printed for others. The spring touch is almost reviving, gives the urge to be in April, when nature starts to come back to life. Pink, orange, floral prints,... a very good job on the chromatic palette but also on the shapes that deserve their round of applause. Since then, Cacharel is back on good position in the financial business.

Paco Rabanne’s turn? Paco Rabanne founded his notorious label in the 60’s and revolutionized couture. The «metallurgist» as Coco Chanel liked to call him, was innovative by creating pieces with Rhodoid (a plastic made of cellulose acetate, EN). And he didn’t stop there. He then star-

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UManish Arora

ted to use fabrics and materials completely incredible such as paper, fluorescent leather, hammered metal, aluminium jersey and knitted fur. The results were generally very aesthetic and especially very avant-gardist. But unfortunately, the master went from creative madness to plain madness. Indeed, Rabanne is known for his bizarre predictions and his statements that are more than just eccentric. We remember the time he said that a spatial station was going to crash on France...However, we can’t say for sure that his wide imagination was the cause of Paco Rabanne’s falling. It certainly was because of a lack of creativity to reinvent himself. When Patrick Robinson took the wheel of the label,

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

FOCUS we thought that it was time for the rise from the dead. The american man gave brightly elaborated collections but left the ship a little too early to join GAP. Vincent Thilloy, current president of Paco Rabanne gave himself the challenge to come back on top of the ready-to-wear market in 2011. Reason why he named the incredible Manish Arora new artistic director. In fact, the indian designer managed to make himself noticed with his avant-gardist collections. Is he the man we’ve been waiting for? We’ll get the answer in October 2011, during the label’s Spring/ Summer 2012 collection show. Meanwhile,

UBag

the brand has already started its comeback by re-editing the «Iconic 69» bag with a new touch by Rei Kawabuko, and a collaboration with jeweller Judy Blame has also been announced. It’s pretty good that some brands from the past come back to life with the young spirits of the new generation, a new chance sometimes holds (good) surprises. At FASHIZBLACK, we’re wondering if we’ll be able to see Elsa Schiaparelli on stage again. It’s about time an investor thinks about it...3

Iconic 69 FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

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LE SOLEIL Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OR Directed by Paola-Audrey Ndengue Photographer: James Courtenay Stylist : Nickque Patterson Model : Raschelle Osbourne @ Models1 Make Up: Philipp Ueberfellner with Illamasqua products Manicure: Lystra Lezama Assistant : Matt McCarthy at OKENWA Backdrop : James Courtenay at OKENWA

Top : Rachel Freire

Dress & belt: Beyond Retro, Eearings : Ruby Jewels

Dress : Alice Palmer, Shoes: Georgina Goodman, Bracelet: Ruby Jewels

Shirt: The Shop, Blazer and pants : Jacob Kimmie, Pearls: Ruby Jewels

Dress : Alice Palmer, Shoes: Georgina Goodman, Bracelet: Ruby Jewels

Corset: Agent Provocateur, Dress: Emma Griffiths, Shoes: Geogina Goodman

Dress: Ara Jo, Shoes: Georgina Goodman

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SPRING/SUMMER 2011’S TEN COMMANDENTS by F.R

You shall master the colors

fter being invaded by a wave of camel, beige and other nude and monochromatic colors this past winter, our closet will take a healthy dose of vitamins this season. From orange, green, fuchsia and etc…this season puts a great emphasis on flashy colors, mixed without difficulty. Viewed in the greatest fashion houses: Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, etc…this chromatic energy will need to be mastered by almost monastic clean cuts to avoid a fashion faux-pas.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

RIVER ISLAND MANGO - 50 EUROS BOOHOO 25 EUROS MANGO - 60 EUROS RIVER ISLAND - 35 EUROS ASOS - PRICE NOT DISCLOSED

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TRENDS

You shall remain from Africa

he African aesthetic continues to have wind in its sails among Fashionistas. Its bright colors and infamous wax prints will accompany us throughout the season.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

L.A.M.B JEWEL BY LISA - 140 EUROS JOHARI - 40 EUROS ITUEN BASI - 45 EUROS AIMAS - 85 EUROS MANGO - 90 EUROS

3 2 4

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You shall be inspired by the 70’s

s the only survivor of the retro wave hitting fashion this late winter, the 70’s will be an excellent source of inspiration this season. With a real tribute to the genius of Yves Saint Laurent, collections for the summer season have successfully defended the aesthetics the creator once introduced. Bell-bottoms , the long skirt, passing through the wedges, the wide-brimmed hat, and small touches of gold are iconic YSL. In addition, we will also adopt the rusty color, that color between brown and red that perfectly compliments ebony skin and is so representative of these magical times.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

MARC JACOBS ASOS - 45 EUROS BERSHKA MANGO AVRIL GAU - PRICE NOT DISCLOSED URBAN OUTFITTERS

5 6

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TRENDS

You shall adorn yourself with stripes

way from its origins in Brittany, this season streaks of color make their way on all our clothes and accessories. Sonia Rykiel, where we can find the origins of these colored stripes, makes it look both athletic and feminine. If you dare a total look, make sure that the stripes on the bottom are not the same width as those at the top or that one is horizontal and the other vertical.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

SONIA RYKIEL VIVIENNE WESTWOOD - 280 EUROS MANGO - 50 EUROS H&M- 30 EUROS NEWLOOK - 18 EUROS SONIA RYKIEL- 180 EUROS

4 5

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You shall adopt the wide-leg pants look 1

ot to be confused with bell-bottoms, it combines the rigor of tuxedo pants with a sense of femininity. It is preferable to choose a high waist cut to avoid compacting the silhouette, in denim for a less formal and a more sailor style effect (seen at Dior). Also adopt its summery version, the more flared «Palazzo» pants, to be paired with wedges and a close-fitting top.

1. AKRIS 2. H&M - 35 EUROS 3. MISS SELFRIDGE - 50 EUROS 4. FRENCH CONNECTION 95 EUROS 5. BOOHOO - 20 EUROS 6. MANGO - 40 EUROS

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5 4

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE March-April 2011

TRENDS

You shall feminize Denim

his summer, take out and roll up your old Boyfriend jeans and feminize it with a light and airy blouse, a scarf tied around the waist, and wedges (Moschino).

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

MOSCHINO NEWLOOK - 25 EUROS UNIQLO - 95 EUROS H&M- 30 EUROS NEWLOOK - 18 EUROS SAN MARINA - 70 EUROS

2 4 3 5

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You shall mix prints

his season, the most talented will embark on this perilous exercise. There is no established rule. Dare anything as long as you assume the results.

1 2

1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG 2. H&M - 35 EUROS 3. TIFFANY AMBER NIGERIA - 155 EUROS 4. MANGO- 70 EUROS 5. H&M - 30 EUROS 6. JEWEL BY LISA - 40 EUROS

3 6 4

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TRENDS

You shall become Punk

efended for the last few seasons by Decarnin at Balmain, we are seduced with this silhouette made famous by rockers during the 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Adopt the jeans and distressed t-shirts, and the perfcto remains our best friend for a glamorous punk look.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

MOSCHINO NEWLOOK - 25 EUROS UNIQLO - 95 EUROS H&M- 30 EUROS NEWLOOK - 18 EUROS SAN MARINA - 70 EUROS

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You shall cover yourself in flowers (or fruits)

s the perfect symbols of refreshing springtime, fruits and flowers are invited in our closets. Let your summer clothes be impregnated with liberty prints, apples or lemons.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

STELLA MCCARTNEY H&M - 40 EUROS MIM - 15 EUROS MANGO - 50 EUROS NEWLOOK - 20 EUROS NEWLOOK - 30 EUROS

5 3

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10 A

TRENDS

You shall be minimalist

phenomenon championed for years by Calvin Klein, it has been promoted as essential by the great Phoebe Philo at Celine. Minimalism puts the point on the neutral and monochromatic colors, without forgetting strict cutting. Black, white, camel, etc... are the identity of this chromatic figure not lacking in elegance.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

CALVIN KLEIN H&M ASOS MANGO - 140 EUROS H&M ZARA - 120 EUROS

5 6

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INTERVIEW

DAVID TLALE:

The Fashion playwright by Paul-Arthur Jean-Marie.

Known for his sense of fair extravagance, every one of his shows is a like a play in which the models play women with strong personalities, walking around in eccentric yet glamourous pieces. Of course, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re talking about South-African incredibly talented designer David Tlale, whose work has been showcased beyond his homecountry and has been admired in the biggest fashion capitals like New York and Paris. For his 2011 Fall/Winter collection presented during last Johannesburg Fashion Week, Tlale didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fail his reputation. He decided to pay homage to South-African metropolis and to President Nelson Mandela through 92 superb silhouettes. Audacious cuts and prints, sensual black and red night gowns, and other creations reminding of french Haute Couture were presented to show his meticulous sense of details and rich fabrics that were used... Right after his show, we joined him and he kindly accepted to answer our questions.

INTERVIEW FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : First of all, congratulations on such an amazing performance

David Tlale : Thank you ! FM : Your brand will celebrate its seventh

anniversary this year. How do you assess your experience in the fashion world?

D.T : The fashion world is an exciting, fast

paced world that is constantly changing and extremely volatile. You have to be sure of yourself and confident in yourself and your abilities as a designer and businessman to be successful.

FM : What is the best memory you have of your career?

D.T :

The best memory I have of my career has to be when I was invited to showcase in New York City for the very first time.

FM : What led you in such an adventure? D.T : This adventure I am on started when

I realised that auditing was not right for me, I needed to express the creativity within me. I started working in a flower shop where I would design the arrangements and so on, I have even tried hairdressing, but I found my best outlet of creativity and best use of my talent through fashion design. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something I enjoy first and foremost, and I have a huge passion for it.

FM : Have you already thought about a muse? If you have, who and why?

UDavid Tlale & his muse Tatum Keshwar

and menswear. How do you manage all that amount of work?

D.T : I have a passion for what I do, and I have a dedicated and hard working team behind me which ensures the success of each collection and show.

D.T : My muse is former Miss S.A. Tatum Kes-

FM : We met you in Paris during your presen-

hwar. She carries the David Tlale signature with elegance and poise.

tation back in 2010. Did it bring something to you? Are you planning to come back or is it not on your agenda?

FM : You do multiple performances through

D.T : It brought an element of refinement to

the African continent, you design women

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my work. I learnt about good quality stan-

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SIMON DEINER /SDR PHOTO

INTERVIEW

U collection Fall/Winter

dards and workmanship. Paris also helped me see the DT brand through the eyes of the rest of the world. Yes, I do plan on coming back to Paris.

elements that make Johannesburg what it is and what makes it so great. I want to show that through this new collection.

FM : For every new collection, you dive deep

inspire you?

into a particular theme to make women more beautiful. What about the next one?

D.T : n the next one I’m revisiting the past and bringing back iconic items and design elements and giving it a new and modern twist. The theme for my new collection is “Made in the City”, I want to bring back and depict the

FM : Do you have artist, designers who really D.T : Valentino, John Galliano, Givenchy and Alexandra McQueen are all designers who inpire me.

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INTERVIEW FM : Can you tell us more about the state of the luxury industry in South Africa?

D.T : The financial crisis has had an effect on

ning exclusive and keeping a strong client base. My vision is to see the ordinary person on the street wearing a DT creation.

the state of the luxury industry. The focus on luxury brands has shifted from first world countries to emerging markets in countries like South Africa. There will always be a market for luxury, crisis or no crisis.

FM : How do you envision your couture house

and yourself in the next seven years to come?

D.T: I would like to move into the internatio-

SIMON DEINER /SDR PHOTO

nal market as well as expanding the brand into the mass market sector while still remai-

U collection Fall/Winter

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INTERVIEW

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Fashizâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Focus

ANITA QUANSAH

Like a conjurer, she manages to transform recycled materials into sublime jewelry reflecting luxury and beauty. Anita Quansah is part of the new wave of African artists who keep on being talked about in the West. Versatile and passionate, comfortable in doing jewelry but also clothes and interior design, she reflects on her journey and inspirations. Par Paul-Arthur

Jean-Marie

UAnita Quansah

FASHIZBLACK MAGAZINE : Tell us about Anita

Quansah, the birth of Anita Quansah London label and how you acquired a flair for design.

Anita Quansah : I am a designer from Lon-

don UK and a Textile design graduate from Chelsea College of Art and Design London who produces eclectic stylish and expressive one-off pieces of clothing and neckpieces that fuses together timeless sophistication with great originality using recycled and vintage materials. Since graduating, I have been working to develop and promote recycled textiles, by creating intricate pieces for fashion and interior. Being involved with Indigo, Premier Vision in Paris and other such exhibitions has given me the opportunity to be involved with the fashion industry, collaborating and creating unique embroidered textile pieces for some of the leading textile and fashion design houses.

FM : Where does that talent for design come from?

stems from my early childhood, watching my grandmother, a seamstress, teaching and making the most beautiful clothes from very interesting and embroidered textiles. Her Passion for creativity, her energy and her determination is what drove me to start experimenting at a very young age. I guess also being brought up around women and watching their different styles evolve also had an impact on me.

FM : What made you get into jewelry? A.Q : The wonderful ladies in my family, from

my grandmother, to my mum and aunties influenced my aesthetics. These ladies showed me at a very young age how adorning your body with beautiful jewels can have a remarkable impression on your self and others. What was very important was that they dressed for themselves, which I always have in the back of my mind when designing. A woman should dress to suit their personality. For them each piece draped around their neck reflected each of their personalities which are very vibrant like me (laugh)

A.Q : I love fashion and all things beautiful. I guess this passion for design and creativity

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USpring/Summer 2011 collection

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FOCUS FM : What materials and processes do you use in your collections and why do you choose to work with them? Will you ever work with any other medium?

A.Q : I tend to use reclaimed and vintage

materials and beads from other parts of the world, like Kenya in my designs. Recycling has always been my passion. Over years of exploring and experimenting with reclaimed and vintage materials, I have realised that possibilities are endless, if you allowed yourself to view and use materials in an unconventional ways, by experimenting and allowing even simple mistakes to shape each piece. What others discard, I have re-used to create unimaginable rare luxury statement pieces which are truly one of a kind. I am very comfortable using this medium and there are lots more out there waiting for me to transform. Also I like to believe that by working this way, I am doing my bit for the planet.

FM : What is your collections’ design process? A.Q : Because my pieces are not commercial and they are one off pieces it takes time to create. Each piece within the collection whether it’s fashion, interior or jewelry is designed and handmade solely by me in my studio. Some pieces can take a few days, some hours, and some weeks. All crafted with techniques which are extremely challenging. For me Luxury is time, so products that take time to create should be appreciated. The physical craftsmanship hours, fine fabrics and years of knowledge involved in creating all my pieces is a luxury that I personally honour and hope others will as well.

FM : How would you say being an African has affected your design aesthetic?

Nigerian has exposed me to a lot of rich African traditions, cultures with rich materials and textiles. The bold and vibrant colours in Africa are phenomenal. I try to inject these into my work. I have incorporated in the past rich luxe African prints in my work mixed with vintage materials such as 1940 pieces and new materials such as chains, pearls and shells, which is amazing, it gives it a totally new look which is rare. I try to create a collection that is recognizable and alluring, pieces that will have an impression on people.

FM : Your last summer collection is very bold and glossy. We absolutely love it to say the truth. Could you talk us through that collection from conception to delivery?

A.Q : The summer 2010 collection was a fun

experience, themed “Africhic”. I wanted to step away from using vintage textiles and develop and play with the idea of creating ultra luxurious look using rare finds from vintage stores entwined with that of the new. I Love working with metals of various kinds and hand made flowers and this collection allowed me to have fun and express the image and reputation which the brand conveys.

FM : Do you wear a lot of jewellery yourself? What is your favorite item from your collection?

A.Q : I am known to wear a lot of statement

neckpieces. I love colourful and bold neckpieces that are totally one of a kind. What’s my Favorite neckpiece? OMG. That is very difficult to answer, as I love every piece in my entire collection. They are all created with love and passion and it is hard to choose a favorite. I choose them all.

A.Q : My cultural heritage has had a huge

impact on my work. Coming from a mixed African background half Ghanaian and half

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FOCUS FM : What is your best tip for people buying your jewellery?

A.Q : The jewelleries in my collections

speak individuality. I like to believe that every woman who loves appreciates and buys into my designs want something that makes them feel good, powerful, elegant and regal. All the neckpieces speak for themselves and we can assure you one thing you will defiantly be noticed when you enter a room. Anita Quansah London represents Luxury, one of a kind, ethical and superior craftsmanship.

FM : Who is your dream customer? A.Q : I would like to think that every lady is

our dream customer. We design for ladies with a fabulous personality and style, beautiful on the inside and outside.

FM : You worked with several great and

international designers such as Christian Lacroix and Diane Von Furstenberg. Tell us about those experiences.

luxury industry in Africa?

A.Q : I tell you what Africa has become very powerful in the fashion world. We have fantastic and inspiring cultures, brilliant and super talented designers and artists all skilled in their aesthetics.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about time the world better recognize these talents. African fashion is now a global market and we have very luxurious brands that create couture pieces from beautiful African textiles, which I totally adore. You have brands such as JBL (Jewel by Lisa), Deola Sagoe, Duro Oluwo, HVS (House of Versatile styles), Tiffany Amber, and many more. I adore these brands and what they all represent. It makes me so happy to see what happening in the African fashion scene, we have worked extremely hard as Africans to all get to where we are now, and I believe that there is many more to come.. The world better watch out.

A.Q : Working with any designer is a great

and unforgettable experience. Collaborating with a great couturier Christian Lacroix and selling to designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg was a joyful experience. The whole experience was fun. They were good clients to work with they were precise with what they wanted and how they wanted it. When I worked with Christian Lacroix, they made me feel so welcomed when in the design house. The people were lovely. I was mesmerised by the beautiful creations in the showroom in Paris. The colours, details, and most amazingly the final piece which I worked on was right there amongst other beautiful creations. Monsieur Lacroix himself is a very kind and understanding man, and I am very passionate about his work.

FM : What are you thoughts regarding the

UFashizblack, January-February 2011, necklace by Anita Quansah London.

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Glamorous Spring Directed by Paola-Audrey Ndengue Photographer : Imperia Stafferi Art director & Stylist : Crystal Deroche Coordinator : Ola shobowale Make up : Sabine FĂ¨bre Hair: Mia Parker Model : Kirsty, from Profile Model Management Thanks to HTTP://WWW.CHELSEAPENTHOUSE.CO.UK for their hospitality.

Dress : Kemkem Studio Necklace : Anita Quansah Shoes : River Island Bracelet : La Boutique

Dress : Nkwo Bodypiece: Anita Quansah Shoes: River Island

Jumpsuit : Tina Atiemo Necklace : Anita Quansah Shoes : River Island

Dress : Bestow Elan Bodypiece : Anita Quansah Shoes : River Island

Dress : Tina Atiemo Necklace : Anita Quansah Shoes : River Island

Dress: Bestow Elan Necklace : Anita Quansah Shoes : River Island

Dress : Asake Oge Bracelet : La Boutique

Dress : Nkwo Necklace : Anita Quansah

Dress : Bestow Elan Necklace : Anita Quansah

Dress : Asake Oge Necklace : Anita Quansah

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BEAU

UTY

Fashiz’

Wishlist

FOR A 5 STAR BEAUTY ! by Sam

aking care of yourself is priceless and it’s definitely not these 6 products we selected for you that will prove us wrong. 1. Perfume Femme 30ml, Sergiotto 450 euros 2. Serum new skin, Estee Lauder 91 euros 3. Slimming Skincare 60 euros, Dr Brant (sephora) 4. Emulsion Caviar Luxe for the body, La Praire. 168.10 euros 5. Pearled look, Chanel 46.50 euros 6. Prodigious Cream, Nuxe. 20.20 euros

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Fashiz’

Wishlist SPRING PATTERNS by Marc Zabel

lowly, spring is coming back, when nature is revived again and leaves behind us those particularly cold temperatures. It’s time to take a look at the 3 beauty looks that are not-to-be-missed this upcoming season. 1*FULL AND INSOLENT LIPS For sensual and daring yet chic lips, wear bright red lipstick and outline it very finely with a lip pencil (Rouge Allure by Chanel - 30,50 euros / Silky lip pencil by Armani -19 euros) 2*RAINBOW NAILS In order to give a sparkly touch to our days, the craziest colors are our nails best friends. Lemon green, electric blue, bright red, shocking pink,...do not limit yourself (O.P.I x Katy Perry - 13,90 euros / Lancôme - 20,95 euros / Dior 20,90 euros) 3*ACCENTUATED EYEBROWS The days when beauty meant trimming your eyebrows till they are invisible are over. From now on, they’re owned up. More, they’re valorized. Garanteed effect. (Eyebrows Set by Thierry Mugler, 50 euros / Eyebrow pencil by Black Up ,15,50 euros / Eyebrow enhancers by Smashbox, 26 euros)

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Fashiz’

Wishlist

ZOE SALDANA’S MAKE-UP by Marc Zabel

hen it comes to fashion, lack of taste is extremely rare or nonexistent for Zoe Saldana. On the red carpet, her choices always proved bold yet elegant and effective. She applies the same recipe for her make-up. Natural, fresh and radiant, her make-up is to adopt if you want to stay chic and minimalist at a party, without having to go unnoticed. FOR THE FOUNDATION -A Black Up complexion enhance that will emphasize radiance and cover the skin of a beautiful satin veil / 36 euros. -A Lancome pink blush to draw the contours of the face in a subtle way and to sublime cheekbones / 38,50 euros FOR THE LIPS -A Nars lip gloss. It makes the mouth very feminine and glamorous without overdoing it. / 25 euros. FOR THE EYES -Chanel eye Shadow to apply lightly for a sexy and sophisticated looké /26,50 euros -Yves Saint Laurent Black Eyeliner/ 27,50 euros -Givenchy Mascara. Its creamy and soft texture instantly stretch lashes one by one, for a soft and silky effect and also a impeccable and absolute comfort / 28 euros

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WISHLIST

THE FOUNDATION

THE LIPS

THE EYES

CULT

TURE

Fashiz’

Music ANDREYA TRIANA Making her debuts by collaborating with prestigious producers such as Flying

Lotus, Fink or Mr Scruff, Andreaya Triana is starting to rise on the international Nu Soul scene. And it’s not her contract with Ninja Tune which might prove us wrong. by Keyzz

verything started YHer first solo album «Lost where I belong» cover. became slowly an very ordinarly: accomplished artist. Andreya was born in south A few years after, surburbs of London. As she met the man that a little girl, she already would make her carsaw her name in big reer jump: Simon lights and locked herself Green aka Bonobo, up in her room for hours talented producer with to write poems and to rewhom she became cord songs with her two friends very quickly. radios, one to record and Their first collaborathe other one playing the tion was on Bonobo’s music. But everything album «Black Sands» took a new turn in her (she recorded three adolescence. She left her songs) and the alcheLondon life behind and my operated instantly. went to Leeds to study music where she’d have Despite her affirmed her first classes in cafes soul and jazz style, and other open-mic bars she’s not reticent to (very common in UK). Bonobo’s Trip Hop One of the bars’ tenants influences. She even where she’s used to perfom, impressed by her incorporated them in her music and decided voice, introduced her to a band called Bootis to make her first solo album with him. After that she’d perform with for a while. It made many months working on the album, «Lost her grow that love for the stage. Andreya Where I Belong» was born, released last year

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MUSIC on August 23rd. Excellent album and very minimalist as much in the sound as in the quantity (there are nine songs on the album). Armed with her warm voice (aficionados would say «soulful»), Andreya Triana wraps the listener in a melodic universe where Jazz, Nu Soul and Trip Hop meet (sometimes, at the same time). But first of all, it’s a calm, sooty, and almost melancolic album that Andreya gives us. Her first three singles (Lost Where I Belong», «A Town Called Obsolete» and the new one «Far Closer») perfectly match the unique sound she created. The album «Lost Where I Belong» is a journey that leaves nobody emotionless, she’s acclamed by both british and french press which

recognize her music as being audacious and accessible at the same time. Andreya Triana will perform in France during her tour: March 7th at Bellevilloise in Paris, March 8th at St-Nazaire, March 10th at Toulon, March 12th at Auxerre, March 13th at Blois and March 14th at Havre. An artist to discover quickly whether on stage or on the album. You’ve been warned...

LINKS d www.andreyatriana.com d www.myspace.com/andreyatriana

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https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xPTw9ts7jf8/TWheYf0HG3I/AAAAAAAACKE/BGALobwPEZE/s1600/Niangouna.jpg

CULTURAL AGENDA AFRICA & CARIBBEAN ISLANDS SHOW OFF. Bronzes, sculptures made of wood or serpentine, pearls and cameo glass jewels, Mali bogolans, all designed by the current greatest African artists like MarieB, Camara Gueye, and Islam Zian Alabdeen... This what you can admire at the Galerie Africaine du Viaduc des Arts from March 8th to March 13th. www.lagalerieafricaine.com / tel : 06 60 24 06 26.

FASHION SNAPSHOTS.

TOGO INVITES ITSELF IN PARIS. On April 30th, the Sparrowhawks’ nation will be present in Paris through a big market, called Assiganmé. It will take place at the Espace Eugenie. Over there, a group of designers such as Nana Benz and Akouyo Kate, of artists but also jewels designers will wait for you and present their work. The aim of it? «Promote and value culture, elegance and Togolese beauty in France».

Sacha Von Dorssen is from the Netherlands and have been in the fashion industry for more than 45 years as a photographer. She started to really 06 13 01 42 64 / 06 60 79 work in Paris for French magazines such 56 25 / assiganmedeparis@ as Elle and Marie Claire, but also foreign yahoo.fr. ones : The Sunday Times Magazine, Stern, Avenue, GQ... and for Avenue in the Netherlands. At the same time, she did ad campaigns shots and brought up her contribution to edited work in themes that where often related to fashion. To pay tribute to her wok, an exhibition is held at the Dutch institute of Paris, until March 20th. An opportunity to discover different facets of fashion photographers’ craft like Sasha, who has done it since 1964. www.institutneerlandais.com

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AGENDA

IN PURSUIT OF HIS OWN TRUTH. Adapted from Wilfried N’SONDE’s novel, «The leopard childrens’ heart» is a touching play about the quest for true identity, real self, in an environment that is not always very auspicious. Now that his love is gone, and his friends are drifting away, this young man finds himself in a jail cell after one drunk night and does not really know why he is there. Born in Congo, he lives in a poor neighborhood in Paris fringes and during his custody, he will tie again with his destiny. Mireille, who just left him, Drissa, his friend having a breakdown, his pains, his anger, his tearing, his struggle against prejudices and dark looks... He can even hear the ancestor’s voice, this voice of an idealized Africa in his loneliness. The interpretation is made by Criss Niangounan, and his brother, Dieudonné Niangouna produced it. From Tuesday, March 1st to Saturday, March 19th 2011 at TARMAC. www.letarmac.fr / 01 40 03 93 90.

FROM POETRY TO IMAGE. Known fror his famous poems, Jacques Prévert also created collages during numerous years. He did it with books, letters, photos, newspapers extracts, and postcards. Put together randomly, without real hamony, it reflects a particular humor, quite intriguing, just like his photography. Today, they are exposed until the end of April at the European house of photography. Strange and nonconformist aesthetic enthusiasts, this exhibition was made for you. www.mep-fr.org.

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