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behind the kombucha craze
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Simple Spinach Balls 1 10 oz. package frozen chopped spinach, defrosted 1 egg ½ cup egg whites ½ tsp garlic powder ½ tsp onion powder ¼ tsp sage ¼ tsp thyme Pinch of nutmeg pink salt and pepper, to taste | PREPARATION | Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Drain spinach to remove moisture, then place in a bowl and set aside. Whisk together egg, egg whites and spices. Pour egg mixture into spinach and mix together until well combined. Spoon 16 heaping tablespoons into silicone muffin tray. Bake for 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before removing.
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Science On Tap Explore the science of brewing, bottling and imbibing.
Saturday, February 8
7–10pm | 6–7pm VIP Early Access Tickets on Sale Now at slsc.org Sponsors
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Inspired Local Food Culture /
midwest
january
2020
Volume 10 / Issue 1 contributors
Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine
Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
EDITORIAL
sales
Editor in chief
For advertising inquiries, please contact:
Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor
sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298
Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com
Special projects coordinator
assistant editor
Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com
Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor
Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor
Mabel Suen Karen Parkman Proofreader
Erica Hunzinger Contributing Writers
Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Juliana Goodwin, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, JC Sandt, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Paula Tredway, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Shannon Weber
St. Louis, Photographer “WellBeing Brewing Co. has done some excellent work on the graphic design of its product labels. I enjoyed photographing Jeff [Stevens] and the team at The Monocle, but also had the bonus of taking those beautiful cans and bottles, including the only prototype of the new IPA, back to the studio to shoot the raw material for a composition
FEAST TV
showcasing the product line. The real challenge was to be sure not to mistakenly pop open that prototype can
producer: Catherine Neville
while pouring the samples, so it could be returned intact.
production partner: Tybee Studios
Contact Us
fact checker
Sean Locke
Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com
Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.
ART
Mission accomplished!" (The Pursuit of WellBeing, p. 61)
April Fleming
Kansas City, Writer "I had never tried kombucha until I wrote about Tea-Biotics for Feast approximately two years ago. Since then, I’ve admittedly become a bit of a fanatic for the brand (it’s so good!), stopping at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market every weekend to refill my growler. It was a pleasure to spend time with Lisa Bledsoe and learn about her history and how she started what has become one of Kansas City’s fastest-growing and most popular food brands. Writing the piece also inspired me to finally try making kombucha myself. It’s not as good as the stuff from Tea-Biotics, but it’s surprisingly tasty – and much easier to make than I’d
Art Director
expected. Truly anyone can do it!" (Gut Feeling, p. 56)
Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com production designer
JC Sandt
Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com
St. Louis, Writer
Contributing Photographers
Chris Bauer, Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Dean Groover, Sean Locke, Miranda Munguia, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Samuel Reed, Rolf Ringwald, Mackenzie Romagni, Ben Romang, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Robert Turek, Alistair Tutton, Kim Wade, Cherl Waller Contributing illustrator
Tyler Gross
"As a local beer advocate, I really love the opportunity to talk about all the wonderful flavors to come out of our beer scene. Feast, with its flair for unique and meaningful dishes, is the perfect place for that. I particularly enjoyed diving into the cascara-glazed turnips; it's a recipe with a lot of layered complexity that allows an elaborate beer style such as saison to flex all its food-pairing prowess. I suggest letting your beer 'open up' by allowing it to warm to cellar temperatures, closer to 55°F." (On the Shelf, p. 29)
Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.
Miranda Munguia
St. Louis, Photographer "As a native of Illinois, I was excited to photograph Kaleidoscope Craft Brew Coffee in Belleville. [The owners']
Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.
welcoming nature and love for taking coffee to a new level reminded me of friends I met during my college years. Realizing we had the same connections, we shared the challenges and excitement of starting a coffee
on the cover Praying Mantis-Style cocktail by Zach Bauman table of contents Go Out: Vantage Rooftop Lounge in Springfield, Missouri, by Tessa Cooper; Stay In: Kohlrabi and apple soup by Drew Piester; Features: WellBeing Brewing Co. by Sean Locke
business. Dedicated to their craft, Chris and Elizabeth [Thele] faced the odds and have created a delicious craft-brew coffee." (One on One, p. 19)
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Go Out
Stay In
/ 13 /
/ 11 /
DINE & DRINK Blade & Timber, Cherry Street Cellar, Katerina's, Oak & Steel, The Press Coffee & Juice Bar, The St. Louis Union Station Soda Fountain, Vantage Rooftop Lounge & Conservatory
Features
/ 26 /
/ 23 / THE mix What's the Tea? / 24 / one ingredient 3 ways Blood orange shrub
/ 14 / On TREND Low-ABV beer
/ 26 / healthy appetite Kohlrabi and apple soup
/ 16 / shop here Bon Bon's Candy House
/ 27 / MIDWEST MADE Cold-pressed juice
/ 17 / one on one Joshua Grigaitis of Pop's Blue Moon
/ 28 / mystery shopper Cascara
/ 18 / hot blocks Downtown Overland Park
/ 30 / sugar Rush Blood orange crêpes with crème fraîche filling
/ 19 / one on one Chris and Elizabeth Thele of Kaleidoscope Craft Brew Coffee
/ 32 / the dish Coconut-matcha smoothie
/ 20 / Hometown hits Sheila's Place, Sebree's, The Pier Restaurant / 21 / one on one Dennis and Penelope Woodhouse of Botanical Tea Room
/ 61 /
56
gut feeling Learn how Lisa Bledsoe transformed TeaBiotics from a hobby into a kombucha empire in Olathe, Kansas.
61
the pursuit of wellbeing
67
proof of concept
Nonalcoholic craft beer is taking the market by storm. Meet the St. Louisbased brewery helping to lead the charge.
Want to make delicious nonalcoholic cocktails at home? Try one of these recipes from some of the best bartenders in the region.
/ 33 / one on one Florian Kuplent of Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. / 34 / quick fix Deconstructed eggplant Parmesan / 35 / culinary library Daniel Ernce of Progress / 36 / crash course Olives
In Every Issue / 6 / from the PUBLISHER Zero-proof trend / 7 / events / 8 / feast tv Arts / 74 / b ack burner / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
5
Letter
from the
Publisher
W
hen editor in chief Heather Riske pitched the idea of focusing our January issue on zero-proof beverages, my initial reaction was skeptical. I didn’t think there could be enough going on in the alcohol-free beverage world to create an issue full of compelling content. I, dear reader, was wrong. The zero-proof, or NA, trend has been building steam for the past couple of years and it’s showing up in creative and delicious ways across the beverage spectrum.
In the Arts episode of Feast TV, I interviewed chef Ferran Adrià about his previous exhibition at the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City. Find his recipe for cod and green pepper sandwiches in the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com.
We’ve woven stories throughout the issue that cover the movement toward mindful drinking, including managing editor Rachel Huffman’s Q&A with Joshua Grigaitis of Pop’s Blue Moon in St. Louis. He’s been behind the bar for quite literally decades and has introduced "NA Saturdays" at his neighborhood bar that pair live music with well-made NA cocktails (never “mocktails” as you’ll learn when you dig through the issue). The Mellow Out Stout, for example, mixes WellBeing Brewing Co.’s Intrepid Traveler Coffee Cream Stout with Mighty Kind CBD, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves – a perfect winter sipper. Turn to p. 17 to learn more. WellBeing Brewing Co., featured in that drink at Pop’s, is crafting nonalcoholic beers that are gaining national attention. Zero-proof beer has been around for a while, but it's tended to be sweet and unsatisfying. Jeff Stevens, who up until recently was working as an advertising executive representing big-name beverages, asked himself why NA beers had to be less flavorful than their alcoholic counterparts and he set about creating brews that beer-lovers would love. WellBeing is setting the standard for nonalcoholic craft beer across the country and you’ll meet the team behind this game-changing brand in Heather Riske’s feature story on p. 61. 6
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Another nonalcoholic beverage that has seen a massive surge in popularity is a fermented tea called kombucha. In Lenexa, Kansas, Lisa Bledsoe started making kombucha in her home kitchen and soon, word spread. Today, she and her business partner, Rich Downs, have plans to take Tea-Biotics national. Turn to p. 56 for April Fleming’s feature and learn how this homegrown brand went from Bledsoe’s kitchen to a 32tap kombucha bar in Olathe, Kansas, and retail space in Kansas City.
And if you were struck, as I was, by art director Alex Povis’ cover design and want to try your hand at making NA cocktails at home, you’ll find the recipe for that pea tendril beauty plus other cover-worthy drinks from the region’s best barkeeps on p. 67. As more folks choose to abstain from alcohol for whatever reason, the once-barren landscape of nonalcoholic options is evolving to include sophisticated beverages that go far beyond expectations, delivering flavor and nuance once found only in traditional cocktails. Cheers to that.
Until next time,
Catherine Neville
publisher@feastmagazine.com
Fr om be er fe st ival s s, to co ok in g cl as se s pl an th e m on th ah ea d w it h fe as t.
CALENDAR
kc | 12/31
stl | 1/26
New Year’s Eve Bash
Wolpertinger 2020
Tue., Dec. 31, 7pm to 3am; $10 online, $20 at the door; The Well Bar Grill and Rooftop, 7421 Broadway, Kansas City, Missouri; eventbrite.com/e/new-years-eve-bash-tickets-85265245645
Sun., Jan. 26, 1 to 5pm; $40, $75 for VIP; Urban Chestnut Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; eventbrite.com/e/ wolpertinger-2020-tickets-79792173539?aff=Feast
Ring in 2020 with all your friends at The Well Bar Grill and Rooftop! Kansas City’s favorite New Year’s Eve celebration features a full night of fun and dancing with DJ Kay-Fan on the main stage and DJ Eric James on the rooftop terrace. Includes party favors and a Champagne toast at midnight. VIP table reservations available, call 816.361.1700.
Wolpertinger is Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s annual anniversary beer festival, celebrating the spirit and community of craft brewers in and around the St. Louis community. This year’s festival features limited-release brews, live music, food and more!
kc | 1/10-1/19
stl | 2/8
KC Restaurant Week
Science on Tap
Fri., Jan 10 through Thu., Jan. 19; $15 and $35 menus; participating restaurants throughout Kansas City; kcrestaurantweek.com
Sat., Feb. 8, 7pm; $55, $45 for members, $60 at the door, $100 for VIP; 21+; St. Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; slsc.org/event-overviews/science-on-tap
Celebrate Kansas City’s premier dining event at hundreds of restaurants throughout the metro area. Savor and save with special multicourse menus during the 10-day event, with a portion of proceeds benefitting The Don Bosco Centers.
Get a taste for science, beer and brewing at the annual Science on Tap at the St. Louis Science Center. The 21 and up event features more than 100 beer tastings, science demonstrations, live music, tasting plates and more.
stl | 1/11-1/12
stl | 2/16
The Pink Bride: St. Louis Wedding Show
St. Louis Best Bridal Wedding Expo
Sat., Jan. 11 and Sun., Jan. 12, 11am to 4pm; $12 in advance, $15 at the door; America's Center Convention Complex, 701 Convention Plaza, St. Louis, Missouri; bridescan.com/#/show/ st-louis-january-2020-pink-bride-wedding
Sun., Feb. 16, noon to 3pm; $10, $5 for brides/grooms, $35 for pre-event brunch option; River City Casino, 777 River City Casino Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/st-louis-best-bridal-wedding-expo-2
St. Louis' largest wedding show features more than 100 of the city's top wedding professionals. Get style inspiration during four fashion shows and enter for a chance to win a bachelorette party. Enjoy exclusive show-only discounts and fun, interactive experiences for everyone.
Enjoy a fabulous Sunday Funday while planning your own big day! Grab your crew (friends, family, partner) and get over to the St. Louis Best Bridal Wedding Expo to meet the best wedding professionals the city has to offer – all in one place.
stl | 1/16
SGF | 4/16
Schnucks Cooks: Deconstructed Eggplant Parmesan
Taste & Toast: Springfield
Wed., Jan. 16, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road., Des Peres, Missouri; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school
In this class, you’ll learn how to treat eggplant well. To peel or not to peel, salt or not salt – those are the questions. You’ll also become a pro at whipping up a beautiful antipasto platter fit for myriad occasions.
Thu., April 16; $25 in advance, $30 day of; Savoy Ballroom, 224 E. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/feast-taste-toast-springfield
Save the date for our tasting event in Springfield, Missouri, on Thu., April 16 at the C-Street Savoy Ballroom. We’ll be celebrating the Springfield Feast 50 winners with the public, featuring the city's best restaurants, breweries and more. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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episode: arts
revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes! Cod and Green Pepper Sandwiches yields 6 sandwiches recipe courtesy of ferran Adrià
cod and green pepper sandwiches 2½ cups sunflower oil, divided 2 green peppers or other mild peppers 3¼ lbs fresh cod fillets ½ tsp salt ¾ cup flour 2 eggs 8 slices country-style bread ¹⁄₈ cup mayonnaise / preparation / Pour a little of the oil into a hot
frying pan and add peppers; fry until soft and well browned on all sides. Season with salt to taste, then transfer peppers to kitchen towels to absorb excess oil. Cut cod into thick slices (about 4½ ounces each), being careful to remove any bones; season with salt. Put flour on a plate and coat fish. Heat the remaining oil in a pan. Meanwhile, pat excess flour off fish. Beat eggs and dip a piece of the floured cod into them; let the excess drip away. Repeat with remaining pieces. Carefully add fish to hot oil and fry for approximately 1 minute, turning occasionally, until golden on both sides and juicy in the middle. Lift the fried cod from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.
You eat with your eyes, and in this episode of our “best of” season, host Cat Neville highlights artisans. Her first stop is at the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City, where world-renowned chef Ferran Adrià previously had an exhibition. Next up is a chat with Josh Rowan at 4 Hands Brewing Co. in St. Louis. He uses his background in tattooing to inform the designs he creates for the brewery’s labels. Finally, Cat stops by Augusta Glass Studio in Augusta, Missouri, to see how artist Sam Stang's beautiful tableware takes shape. Back in the kitchen, Cat pulls a traditional Spanish recipe for cod and green pepper sandwiches from chef Adrià’s book The Family Meal.
Preheat broiler or oven to high. Spread bread over a baking sheet. Toast under the broiler or in the oven until golden on both sides. / assembly / Spread mayonnaise on one side
of each piece of toast. Top with a green pepper followed by a piece of the fried cod and serve.
check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:
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Go Out DINE & DRINK
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HOMETOWN HITS
cotton candy freak shake with a vanilla-frosted rim, whipped cream, rock candy, a lollipop, blue cotton candy and a gummy shark
▪ st. louis
The St. Louis Union Station Soda Fountain Story and photography by Mabel Suen
Combining modern flair with retro vibes, The St. Louis Union Station Soda Fountain offers fun, fizz and flavor for the whole family. Old-school sodas meet nonalcoholic craft cocktails in the Cherry Chocolate Cola and Union Station Sarsaparilla and far-out sweets include sundaes, floats, milkshakes and malts made with Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery ice cream.
The signature 22-ounce Freak Shakes take the cake, though, featuring frosted rims, rock candy, gummy sharks, potato chips, a Funfetti cupcake, a cinnamon roll drizzled with vanilla bean glaze and an entire slice of Key lime pie as some of the fabulously over-the-top ingredients. Bring the kids and those young at heart: There’s no better place in town to satisfy a sweet tooth. 201 S. 18th St., St. Louis, Missouri, sodafountain-stl.com
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Great Lakes walleye diver scallops in a smoked pecan-brown butter sauce
◥ COLUMBIA, MO.
Cherry Street Cellar ▲ KANSAS CITY
Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by kim wade
Daniel Bauer and Ali Ratcliffe-Bauer, owners of Cherry Street Cellar (formerly The Wine Cellar & Bistro) in Columbia, Missouri, have taken great care to preserve many of the restaurant’s famed traditions, including half-price wines for happy hour. But there’s more here to savor beyond the booze: As executive chef, Ali has introduced a seasonally influenced menu that’s making waves. Great Lakes walleye cooked in enriched butternut squash broth with glazed shallots, mushrooms and celery root remoulade and diver scallops in a smoked pecan-brown butter sauce with popcorn grits, honey-roasted delicata squash, parsnips and cardamom-pickled cantaloupe are just the beginning. She also serves oysters three ways and a few specialties from dry land such as roasted lamb ribs and Patchwork Family Farms pork schnitzel. 505 Cherry St., Columbia, Missouri, cherrystreetcellar.com
◀ CLAYTON, MO.
Katerina’s Story and photography by Mabel Suen
Katerina’s brings Greek favorites such as spanakopita, gyros, skewers and pastitsio to downtown Clayton, Missouri. But more than a destination for the beloved Mediterranean fare, the restaurant is also a celebration of life. Owners Tracy and Crist Dubis created the concept to honor their late daughter, Katherine, who was hit by a car in 2015. “Katherine loved her Greek heritage,” says Tracy, adding that Katerina’s, since opening in August of last year, has brought a lot of joy to the area and a lot of people together. 7822 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, Missouri, katerinastl.com 12
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Blade & Timber Written by jenny vergara / photography by anna petrow
Blade & Timber’s flagship axe throwing and entertainment space reopened in Kansas City’s Power & Light District last September, featuring a shiny new food menu. Created by James Beard Award semifinalist Taylor Petrehn, chef and co-owner of the Lawrence, Kansas, bakery 1900 Barker, the menu delivers generous portions made to feed a lumberjack – or simply his flannel-wearing friends. Choose from four entrées, including the popular fried chicken sandwich on a brioche bun and steak frites with chimichurri. Work up enough of an appetite to partake in dessert as well: The thick Liège-style waffle with blueberry-maple syrup or honey-mallow dipping sauce is made for sharing, but you won’t want to. 1303 Baltimore Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, bladeandtimber.com
▼ KANSAS CITY
Oak & Steel Written by jenny vergara / photography by anna petrow
Oak & Steel, a new “craft drinkery” from Kyle Howard, opened in an unusual spot in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District: under the Webster House parking garage a block away from the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts. Howard gave the raw urban space a warm and polished finish, and Oak & Steel now operates like a tasting room, serving a clever wine list and quality spirits. There are also 24 rotating beers on tap from independent craft breweries, many of them local such as Alma Mader Brewing, Cinder Block Brewery, Crane Brewing and Torn Label Brewing Co. – the goal is to never serve a guest the same beer twice. For those interested in zero- and low-ABV beers, try a bottle of WellBeing Brewing Co.’s Hellraiser Dark Amber, or for another tasty nonalcoholic option, grab a can of Aaron’s Craft Soda, available in root beer, orange and lemon-lime. 120 W. 17th St., Kansas City, Missouri, oakandsteelkc.com
▲ SPRINGFIELD, MO.
Vantage Rooftop Lounge & Conservatory Story and photography by Tessa Cooper
With a black and white marble floor, teal accents, strategically placed plants and a sophisticated air, Vantage Rooftop Lounge & Conservatory on the top floor of Hotel Vandivort’s new expansion in downtown Springfield, Missouri, is reminiscent of Clue’s conservatory – sans the murder-mystery vibes. Take in the sweeping views of downtown from the open-air terrace and then scurry back inside to warm up with a signature drink and shareable plates such as smoked trout dip, rosemary-chile snack mix and a charcuterie board. Vantage is also known for its shared-experience cocktails: Second Place, for example, features vodka, blueberry-basil simple syrup, lemon juice and balsamic vinegar and serves four to six people. Poured from a copper watering can, it’s a whole new way to connect with friends. 260 E. McDaniel St., Springfield, Missouri, rooftopvantage.com
▶ SPRINGFIELD, MO.
The Press Coffee & Juice Bar Story and photography by tessa cooper
Alice Oh, chef-owner of The Press Coffee & Juice Bar in Springfield, Missouri, doesn’t shy away from bold flavor. When she decided to relocate her eatery to the Brentwood Shopping Center this past fall, she added Korean-Mexican fusion to the menu. Oh, whose parents were born in South Korea, says the country’s cuisine
is her favorite, but Mexican food comes in a close second. Dishes such as the gogi nachos with bulgogi (thin, marinated slices of sirloin steak), housemade pico de gallo and a trio of sauces (pineapple, Cajun and sweet soy sauce) combine traditions and flavors from both cuisines. Oh also offers organic, made-to-order juices. Customers choose their base (apple, carrot or celery), two ingredients (from lemon to beet to kale) and a topping (aloe vera, chlorophyll, ginger or turmeric). 2710 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/The-PressCoffee-Juice-Bar-736344893182413 / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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KANSAS CITY
ST. LOUIS
Many people perceive stouts as heavy and strong, but according to Brewery Emperial head brewer Sterling Holman, that is a common misconception. “Traditional stouts such as Guinness are meant to be all-day beers,” he explains. The Kansas City brewery’s old-school Irish Stout is no exception, offering a complex flavor profile that’s hearty without being overpowering. Notes of toasted barley and chocolate pair nicely with slight earthiness from the hops. And with only 4 percent ABV, the smooth, light-bodied dark beer is one you can down all day long.
As 2nd Shift Brewing’s first low-ABV beer, Beer #2 was the lager-loving brewing team’s passion project. With an approachable, biscuity essence and a slight hoppy finish, the 3.5-percent-ABV beer is the result of the team’s affinity for drinkable shift beers. Originally part of a collaboration with Michigan-based Speciation Artisan Ales, Beer #2 is undergoing a rebrand: 2nd Shift plans to adopt the beer as a year-rounder and give it a more thoughtful name. In the meantime, snag a four-pack at the brewery or a case at area stores, such as Randall’s Wines & Spirits, and crack one open alongside something spicy.
1829 Oak St., Kansas City, Missouri, breweryemperial.com
1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Whether you’re out with big shots from work or brewery-hopping with friends, sometimes you need to indulge in a brew or two without losing your head. Enter low-ABV beer – everything you love about hops and barley with drastically less alcohol and overall heaviness. These locally made, low-proof beers are as crushable as your favorite light beer with 10 times the flavor.
Illinois The brewing team at Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery in Cantrall, Illinois, says its Session Lager will set you free. An easy-drinking lager with 3.7 percent ABV, its caramel flavors make it great to drink with anything from a juicy burger to five-alarm pad Thai – you can even cook with it. “We wanted to put our spin on the low-ABV craze while offering a little more flavor than folks are used to,” says head brewer Deion Corley of the bright and balanced beer. 3954 Central Point Road, Cantrall, Illinois, rollingmeadowsfarmbrewery.com
-Lillian Stone
Michael Higgins chef-owner
Maldaner's Restaurant 14
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photography by Ben Romang
Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery
“I really love the mentality of [the brewing team at] Rolling Meadows: They grow their own hops and they’re big supporters of the community. They’re deeply involved with sustainability, as well as highlighting the heritage of the area.”
PROMOTI ON
How dates perk up winter days SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS
DEGLET NOOR It’d be fair for these sleek, amber-colored fruits to develop a superiority complex: The deglet noor has been called “finger of light” and “queen of all dates.” If you buy a date at the store that has been pitted or dried, there’s a good chance it’s a deglet noor. Although these honey-hued fruits are sweet, their flavor is nuttier and more delicate than other varieties.
Across the Atlantic in the United Kingdom, medjool dates
dates, so eat them as part of a healthy, balanced diet,” Dr.
stuffed with marzipan are a traditional holiday snack. But
Toriola says. He points out that medjool dates are among the
dates here in the U.S. aren’t as commonly tied to a specific
most popular varieties, but a single one contains around 66
season, so any time is a good one to get to know these sweet,
calories, so they should be enjoyed mindfully.
tropical stone fruits. Dates can go a long way to infusing “Date flesh is a high source of energy, low in fat and protein
recipes with an unexpected
but rich in sugars — mainly fructose and glucose — hence,
sweetness, a quality that’s
they should be eaten in moderation,” says Dr. Adetunji Toriola,
particularly appreciated in
a Washington University associate professor of surgery
midwinter and the heavy, savory
at Siteman Cancer Center. “Date seeds contain higher
meals that often come with cold
dietary fiber and polyphenols compared to the date flesh.
days and long nights. Try using
Polyphenols are antioxidants that protect the body from
dates in a relish to complement
inflammation and could reduce the risk of chronic diseases.
pork tenderloin or as part of a lamb
Dates also contain moderate amounts of vitamins and
tagine. Raw dates are even sweet
minerals.”
enough to replace sugar in some recipes. Dates work well as binders
Although dates are famously high in fiber, which can help you feel fuller for longer, they are also relatively high in
and they bring caramel notes to desserts, quick breads and
be eating more calories than you realize when snacking on
dressings alike.
Washington University associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER
in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER
MEDJOOL Medjool dates distinguish themselves from many other dates thanks to their large size, chewy texture and , most importantly , their caramel flavor. Although they are undeniably sweet, they can also be quite healthy: Medjools are low in fat and excellent sources of potassium, magnesium and copper. They are high in carbs, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Athletes look to medjools for a post-workout energy boost.
Surprise Bars YIELDS | 12 BARS
1 cup dates, pitted
1/3 cup chocolate chips
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 cup milk, 2% (almond, coconut or soy milk may also be used)
If there’s a date whose name is indicative of how central they are to everyday life in the Middle East, it’s this one. “Sayer” is derived from “sayir,” an Arabic word meaning “common,” and these fruits are indeed everywhere: eaten as snacks, given as treats and used for cooking in sweet and savory meals. They are syrupy and filled with antioxidants.
Dr. Adetunji Toriola
to hold bars and cookies together,
calories and sugar for their small size. “That means you could
SAYER
THOORY Generally speaking, there are three main kinds of dates: soft, like medjool; semidry, like deglet noor; and dry, like thoory dates, which are firm and taste a bit like peanuts. Sometimes called “bread dates,” thoory dates are commonly used for baking because they aren’t as sticky as other kinds, making them easier to chop. They’re also great for on-the-go snacking.
1/4 cup dried unsweetened coconut
1/2 cup peanut butter
1/4 cup sunflower seeds
2 cups oats
1/4 cup chopped pecans
1/3 cup ground flaxseeds
1/4 cup slivered almonds
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER
| preparation | Place dates and water in a microwave safe bowl. Microwave mixture for 1 minute, then mash with a fork. Microwave again and mash until a paste forms. Combine date paste with milk and nut butter. Combine the remaining ingredients. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients. Grease an 8 x11 inch pan, then press date mixture into the pan until evenly spread. Cut into 12 bars. When refrigerated, they will last up to 1 week. These bars are surprisingly delicious and totally customizable! Try out different nuts, nut butters or dried fruit. NUTRITION INFORMATION: 286 CALORIES, 14G FAT, 70MG SODIUM, 34G CARBOHYDRATE, 7G FIBER, 10G PROTEIN
ZAHIDI This golden, mid-size date is a crowd- pleaser. It’s medium dry, medium sweet and its plentiful fruit is crunchy with a hint of apricot. Some dates are so sweet that they need to be stuffed with a piquant blue cheese to balance the flavor. Not so with zahidi dates, which can be eaten right out of the hand. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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◀ SPRINGFIELD, MO.
Bon Bon's Candy House Story and photography by Tessa Cooper
Many children dream of being surrounded by candy and chocolate at all times. For Bonnie Nolen, that’s been her reality for the past 21 years. Her parents opened the Springfield, Missouri, location of Richardson’s Candy House in 2002, and when Nolen took the reins in 2015, she rebranded the shop as Bon Bon's Candy House. The sweet Springfield staple moved to the Brentwood Shopping Center this past fall and now features a brilliant marquee sign, an aqua-colored ceiling and wall-to-wall sweets. Fifty varieties of colorful gummies, 48 flavors of Jelly Belly jelly beans, 36 flavors of taffy and 100 different kinds of bulk chocolate are stored in glass jars and vintageinspired, custom-made wooden cabinets. If the sights of the store don’t tempt you, the aromas of freshly made chocolate fudge and peanut brittle certainly will. 2720 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, haveabonbon.com
Bee-Berry Honey Dark Chocolate Bar Biting into a square
Classic
of this chocolate bar, you’ll immediately
sweets
16
recognize the honey
Dark Chocolate Sea Salt Caramels
from
English Toffee
and blackberry flavors
English toffee is the shop's best-seller thanks to its
infused in the caramel.
The beloved sweet-and-salty
Bon Bon's Candy House
buttery, crunchy texture. Nelson makes hers with
Nelson suggests
flavor combo defines this treat,
roasted pecans – rather than almonds like most
pairing a few pieces
but Bon Bon’s caramels boast
traditional toffees – dipped in either dark or milk
with a glass of your
another layer of flavor with
chocolate and finished with a dusting of ground pecans.
favorite red wine.
almond and vanilla notes.
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 0
ONE ON ONE /
ONE on
st. louis
with Joshua Grigaitis / co-owner, Pop’s Blue Moon Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by samuel reed
Booze-Free
Beverages at Pop's blue moon
At age 21, Joshua Grigaitis was already running his own bar. Along with his father, he opened Pop’s Blue Moon in St. Louis’ The Hill neighborhood in 1999, and he quickly learned that in order to make it a success, he was going to have to control his drinking. After six years, he started booking concerts and events around the country and then opened the nightclub 2720 on Cherokee Street, which he sold to a
so fresh, so green
friend in 2017. Finally he found himself back
This NA cocktail boasts complex flavor
behind the bar at Pop’s – ironically, telling
without being overly sweet. Grigaitis
customers about his six-month hiatus from
mixes Borrago #47 Paloma Blend – full of
drinking alcohol. At that time, Grigaitis met
natural botanical flavors and aromas – with
the founders of the soon-to-launch WellBeing
Heirloom Bottling Co.’s lime-peppercorn
Brewing Co., and he helped promote the release
syrup and a splash of seltzer and garnishes
of their first beer. “Tasting that beer for the
it with lime and cracked peppercorn.
first time solidified this whole mindful drinking direction that my brain was going in,” he says. “It actually tasted good – that’s something people are going to be shocked by over the next few years: all these [nonalcoholic] products coming out that are going to satisfy them in ways they didn’t expect to be satisfied.” At Pop’s, Grigaitis is all in: He’s revolutionizing the neighborhood bar scene by hosting “NA Saturdays” each week. Like any other Saturday night at the bar, customers can hang out with friends, listen
mellow out stout
to live music and enjoy exceptional drinks. All
WellBeing Brewing Co.’s Intrepid Traveler
that’s missing is the alcohol, and Grigaitis has
Coffee Cream Stout is infused with
learned that, for many, it’s not a big loss.
Mighty Kind CBD for this drink. The addition of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves
What’s been the response to “NA Saturdays” at Pop’s Blue Moon? When I started “NA Saturdays” [in November 2018], it got people’s attention. People were like, “Why don’t you do it on a Wednesday? Aren’t Saturdays a big bar drinking night?” And it’s like, yes, but that’s kind of the point. A lot of people want to go out on a Saturday night and have a good time, but that doesn’t mean they have to drink alcohol. I like to joke that I’m taking back the word “drinking.” When somebody says it’s been two or three weeks since they’ve had a drink, it’s like, “Aren’t you dehydrated? Can I get you some water?” I think there’s a really funny joke there and if we talk about it enough, alcohol won’t be so ingrained in the concept of drinking. What’s your goal with “NA Saturdays?” Now, when you come to Pop’s Blue Moon, if you ask for a beer, the bartender will ask if you’re looking for a beer with alcohol or without. It’s a pretty quick question that we ask, and I think there’s something really awesome there. The more that becomes a common question, the more people are going to feel comfortable ordering one without alcohol. If nothing else, there are four people on average at a table and [if] one of them is driving, that’s 25 percent – for anyone to ignore that on their bar menu where they’re making all their profit margin is silly. I think people are ready to become more mindful; we just have to give them
the opportunity. You’ll hear me take the mindful drinking approach to this whole thing; I don’t push sobriety on people. Personally, I still have a drink [with alcohol] here and there, and I don’t want to misrepresent myself. But I’m really in love with the idea of providing people with options. I know how much it’s changed my lifestyle and made everything so much better, so I know there are a lot of other people out there who will benefit from the same. What’s next for you? We’re in the process of opening up the storefront next door [to Pop’s]; it’s going to be a mindful drinking club, so to speak – a permanent booze-free space launching [this month]. To start, it will only be open on Saturday evenings, but eventually I want to have happy hour events during the week too – just really nurture the mindful drinking movement. Whether it’s a record spin, live music, tarot reading or a comedy night, we have some fun things planned, and it’s only going to grow. My father and I are both pretty open-minded and I think there’s a possibility that five years down the road, we’ll make the entire space [including Pop’s Blue Moon] booze-free.
creates an overall sensational mouthfeel.
cozy sweater
Made with Ritual Zero Proof Whiskey Alternative and hot apple cider, this seasonal NA cocktail has the sweetness, spiciness and warmth you need to
5249 Pattison Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, popsbluemoon.com
weather the winter. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Downtown Overland Park OVERLAND PARK, Kansas
Downtown Overland Park in Kansas is growing, just like the produce sold at its 37-year-old farmers’ market. The walkable shopping district has recently gained new life thanks to several state-of-the-art apartment and office buildings; it is now a desirable place to live, work and play. Explore these food and drink spaces – some new to the scene, others established fan favorites – that are thriving here. -Jenny Vergara 1.
2.
3.
4.
photography by angela bond
1. The Upper Crust Pie Bakery
2. The Snack Shack on santa fe
3. Brew Lab
4. Strang Hall
The Snack Shack on Santa Fe has changed owners – and even names – a number of times, but one thing has stayed the same: its short list of mouthwatering canteen favorites. Thin and lacy cheeseburgers made with McGonigle's Market ground beef sizzle on the griddle, served alongside plump hot dogs, gooey grilled cheese and hand-breaded crispy chicken sandwiches. Order a creamy milkshake with your meal and dunk the Shack’s salty, hand-cut french fries right in it.
Brew Lab is essentially a playground for beerlovers to imbibe, witness the brewing process, buy their own beer-making supplies and take classes to learn how to use those supplies. Brew Lab’s monthly classes, both public and private, teach participants how to brew their own beer from scratch, but for those who have already dabbled in the art of brewing, you can scale up your recipes on Brew Lab’s three-barrel brewing system and potentially have one of your creations served in the taproom – the 130-seat taproom has 18 taps and a full-service kitchen.
Having opened at the end of last year, Strang Hall is a place to gather, featuring six chef-driven restaurants under one roof. The casual, yet modern 13,000-square-foot space is more than a food hall; it’s a chef collective where culinary entrepreneurs can showcase their skills through live experiences. At Fond, chef Mark Dandurand serves thoughtful cuisine from a secret menu, which you have to know to ask for in order to get a taste. Chef Remy Ayesh operates Nida; her specialties are tacos and tortilla-based dishes. And chef Chad Tillman leads the Italian-inspired Norcini, to name a few.
Sisters – and pie masters – Jan Knobel and Elaine Van Buskirk got their start selling whole pies at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market. In 2011, they opened The Upper Crust Pie Bakery in downtown Overland Park, where they sell a variety of rotating seasonal fruit, nut and cream pies whole or by the slice, in addition to cookies and decadent dessert bars. A slice of bumbleberry or brown sugar-buttermilk pie alongside a cup of hot coffee is the perfect mid-morning pick-me-up. 7943 Santa Fe Drive, Overland Park, Kansas, uppercrustpiebakery.com
8039 Santa Fe Drive, Overland Park, Kansas, thesnackshackonsantafe.com
7925 Marty St., Overland Park, Kansas, brewlabkc.com
7313 W. 80th St., Overland Park, Kansas, stranghall.com
5. The Culinary Center of Kansas City Besides the Overland Park Farmers’ Market, The Culinary Center of Kansas City is the cornerstone of the area’s culinary community. Operating for more than 20 years in the same location, owner Laura Laiben has gradually expanded her business to accommodate the 600 or so cooking classes she conducts every year. Laiben believes magic happens in the kitchen and she employs some of the best local instructors to run her classes. With something for every palate, previous classes have covered everything from fresh pastas to Spanish tapas and the art of sauce-making to simply stunning chocolate desserts. 7920 Santa Fe Drive, Overland Park, Kansas, kcculinary.com
Jeanne Mackay owner
The Tasteful Olive 18
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 0
The Upper Crust Pie Bakery
“What a creative selection of cookies and pies they have [at The Upper Crust Pie Bakery], and the owners and staff all provide such excellent customer service. Everything is freshly baked, as well – we can smell them baking next door!”
ONE ON ONE /
ONE on
BELLEVILLE, IL.
with Chris and Elizabeth Thele owners, Kaleidoscope Craft Brew Coffee Why create cold coffee as opposed to beans, grounds or hot coffee? We found a space to operate in: This is the cold-coffee age, [and] we felt like there was still a lot of room for growth. We put our energy into figuring out how we could [brew] in a way that is craft by nature and how we could give the folks drinking our coffee a genuine craft experience. That’s what we’re here for. –Chris Thele
Written by kasey carlson photography by Miranda Munguia
If you’re a coffee drinker, you’ve probably sipped cold brew – but what about craftbrew coffee? True to its name, craft-brew coffee is brewed using methods borrowed from the craft beer industry. Chris and Elizabeth Thele, founders of Kaleidoscope Craft Brew Coffee in Belleville, Illinois, fell in love with coffee on opposite ends of the world – Chris in Australia and Elizabeth in Haiti – before meeting and getting married. After much research and trial and error, they developed their own proprietary technique for brewing coffee: They expertly roast their high-quality beans and use beer tanks, filters and other equipment borrowed from both coffee-extracting and beer-brewing processes to create the right temperature, pressure, movement and gases that contribute their cold coffee’s rich flavor and silky-smooth mouthfeel. Kaleidoscope products are available in St. Louis-area stores, served on draft from its two brew trucks (sometimes found at area farmers’ markets or rented for events) and are currently infiltrating an increasing number of local restaurants and bars. The brand is growing quickly, taking the area’s caffeine craze in an exciting new direction.
Why did you decide to brew coffee like a craft beer? We wanted to approach coffee extraction with a high level of innovation and controllability and those kinds of things that would allow us to make something that is truly tasty and the absolute best [product] that we can personally create – that’s what craft brewing does. It’s [an approach] that allows us to influence and adjust the extraction of the coffee bean and create a beverage that you can drink. –C.T. What do you want people to get from drinking a Kaleidoscope coffee? It’s not an old-school cup of coffee; we want to raise that bar in the coffee experience. –Elizabeth Thele We’re trying to give [customers] something that is really unique, but super enjoyable. We want everyone who picks up a [Kaleidoscope] craftbrew coffee to have a “brighten your day” kind of experience. –C.T.
nitro ew
craftbrewcoffee.com
r
classic b classic
rotating draft
natural ethiopian
craft-brew
coffees
single-origin
coffee
Track down one of
coffee
Kaleidoscope
With pleasing notes of dark
Kaleidoscope’s brew
A house favorite, the
chocolate, the first craft brew
trucks to try craft-brew
Ethiopian single-origin
Craft Brew Coffee
that the Theles put on the
coffee on draft. Previous
coffee is light-bodied
market is as close as their
drafts have included a
with notes of blueberry
revolutionary products get to
huckleberry-cherry coffee
and an incredibly
a traditional cup of coffee.
and a Radler-style coffee.
smooth mouthfeel.
3 Ways
to Enjoy
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These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours. ▼ MARSHFIELD, MO.
Sheila’s Place written by Juliana Goodwin / photography by dean groover
Since 1994, Sheila’s Place in Marshfield, Missouri, has been serving up hearty portions of comfort food, including its award-winning fried chicken and warm and gooey gooseberry cobbler. One bite of the colossal pork tenderloin sandwich and you’ll be walking on air, and owner Sheila Davis’ housemade pies are just as good. The coconut cream pie is divine and available daily. 915 S. Marshall St., Marshfield, Missouri, facebook.com/Sheilasplacemarshfield
◀ GREENTOP, MO.
Sebree’s Written by Kasey Carlson
seared ahi tuna steak
Brian and Cindy Boultinghouse moved to Greentop, Missouri, to open Sebree’s in 2012. The quaint homestyle restaurant is mere miles from Brian’s family’s farm, Winkleman Farm, which inspires the from-scratch food on its menu. The husband-and-wife team uses as many fresh ingredients as possible, including beef from the farm and vegetables from Brian’s parents’ garden. The name also comes from the family: Sebree is Brian’s great-great-great-grandparents’ last name. Along with rib eye, pork roast and chicken piccata, Sebree’s has the widest selection of seafood in the area. Sustainably caught, the wild ahi tuna steak is seared and then smothered in a lemon-caper cream sauce and spicy jumbo shrimp – it’s a fan favorite and might become yours too. 202 S. Highway 63, Greentop, Missouri, sebrees.com
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▲ QUINCY, IL.
The Pier Restaurant written by Juliana Goodwin / photography by Robert Turek
Settle in with a great glass of wine and a wonderful meal as you take in the stunning views of the Mississippi River at The Pier Restaurant in Quincy, Illinois. Known for its tender steaks and flavorful seafood dishes, the restaurant’s menu focuses on local ingredients and organic produce. Chef Richard Cole – a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and an American Culinary Association Certified Executive Chef – adds his own spin to timeless Midwestern fare: Think potato salad brightened with fresh basil. And the German chocolate cake – a rich dark chocolate cake with warm coconut-caramel-pecan frosting inside a silky chocolate shell – is so decadent you’ll have to fight your tablemates off with a spoon. 401 Bonansinga Drive, Quincy, Illinois, thepierrestaurant.com
ONE ON ONE
ONE on
/
AUGUSTA, MO.
with Dennis and Penelope Woodhouse owners, Botanical Tea Room
tour the
botanical tea room Written by Paula Tredway / photography by rolf ringwald
Dennis and Penelope Woodhouse are each other’s cup of tea. The couple, who own Botanical Tea Room in Augusta, Missouri, met in 2014 and bonded over their love of tea. Penelope is British, and it wasn’t long after she started serving her American friends afternoon tea that she realized it was an experience she wanted to share with others. Dennis and Penelope opened their first tea room on their sustainable farm in St. James, Missouri, in 2017. Dennis’ mother raised him on herbs and natural products, while Penelope has studied herbalism and grown herbs for some time now; their backgrounds inspired the botanical twist to the distinctive afternoon tea service at Botanical Tea Room.
the afternoon tea room
This is where guests can live out their Downton Abbey fantasy. White tablecloths, fine china, hot tea and a carefully curated culinary menu of botanically infused finger foods set the scene for an elegant afternoon tea.
the yoga studio
The Woodhouses plan to offer yoga classes and tea meditations at Botanical Tea Room as well. The space is a spa-like retreat with natural lighting and calming lavender-colored walls, and each session is followed by a replenishing cup of tea.
How do you add a botanical twist to traditional afternoon tea? A lot of edible flowers. [Laughs.] We take a recipe and we practice over time with various herbal infusions. [The flavor profile] has to be exquisite; we don’t infuse for the sake of [it]. Like with our scones, we add goji berries, cardamom and rose petal jam, which marry beautifully. Every single menu item, [from tea sandwiches to scones to petite cakes and tarts], is paired with an herbal product: lavender, chamomile, chervil, tarragon, lemon verbena, roselle, thyme; we grow too many to name them all. And we usually write a little bit about that herb on the menu just to create more interest in the botanical twist. –Penelope Woodhouse What do you hope to gain from your new location in Augusta? The farm – though we love being there – is a little bit isolating. We chose Augusta for its quaintness – the fact that there aren’t even any fast-food restaurants, just the things that you would expect in a small town. –Dennis Woodhouse The [specialty] menu that we offer
appeals to the bed-and-breakfast-goers in Augusta. People who come here for the wineries are [also] looking for something different than what they usually experience. [Botanical Tea Room] is almost like a tourist [attraction], where visitors can try new things. –P.W. Describe your sustainability efforts. Operating out of a commercial building rather than a farm for the first time, we’ve had to make a conscious effort to continue our sustainable practices. Part of us choosing this site, part of our sustainable model, is having natural lighting, reusable china and minimal food waste. That’s the biggest thing – being able to control food waste. [For example], we call our pesto “No Waste-O” because we use edible scraps of herbs and leaves, along with sunflower and pumpkin seeds, to make it. We [also] plan our menu in advance and make everything from scratch, so we really don’t [even use] plastic containers, bags and anything like that. –P.W.
the tea bar
Dennis takes on the role of bartender here. Guests select teas from an expertly curated menu and he pairs each with a
5350 Hackmann Road, Augusta, Missouri, botanicaltearoom.com
cheese that accentuates its flavor. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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PROMOTION
JANUARY BRINGS FRESH STARTS TO A NEW YEAR. Many of us set resolutions to change habits including eating healthier and being more active. No matter your resolution, Schnucks is here to be your helpful guide to eating well and staying on track. Pick up a copy of Simply Schnucks magazine at your neighborhood store and get inspired to jump start your 2020 wellness goals. It’s not only important to eat good, but we also need to get the right amount of exercise, which can be difficult in the grueling winter months. Growing up on a farm, I remember getting excited when the temperature would drop because that meant the ponds would freeze and I could spend hours ice skating as I perfected my moves. Flash forward to adulthood and I am still searching for new outdoor adventures. To give you a little push of motivation this winter, we’ve created an engaging and fun step challenge that allows you to track your steps and challenge your family and friends to a friendly competition. Text STEPS to 27126 for more information about how to get started. Plus, Schnucks Rewards members will have the chance to win rewards points and exclusive deals just for participating. A win-win if you ask me! One thing to remember as you’re setting your New Year’s resolutions is that being healthy isn’t an all-or-nothing approach. The key is finding balance, not perfection. One way to do this is by cooking more at home. Try my Thai Peanut Ramen recipe to warm up this winter. It’s not only packed with flavor, but it’s also a great way to sneak in an extra serving of veggies. Whether your health goal is to eat out less, shed a few pounds or simply eat “a little” better, start small–one good decision tends to lead to another.
SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE, REGISTERED DIETITIAN SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS
THAI PEANUT RAMEN SERVES 6 1 Tbsp Schnucks canola oil 8-oz mushrooms, sliced 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 4 cups unsalted chicken broth 14-oz can light coconut milk 1/4 cup Thai red curry paste 3 Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce 2 Tbsp Schnucks honey 2 Tbsp peanut butter powder 3/4 lb boneless, skinless chicken breasts, thinly sliced 2 cups fresh mustard greens, chopped 8-oz dry ramen noodles Juice of one lime 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped 1 Tbsp fresh basil, chopped Chopped roasted unsalted peanuts and fresh basil to garnish, if desired
PREPARATION Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté for 3 minutes. Stir bell pepper, ginger and garlic into pan and sauté until mushrooms are golden brown, 2-3 additional minutes. Add chicken broth, coconut milk, curry paste, soy sauce, honey and peanut butter powder to pot and stir until combined. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes. Add chicken and greens to pot and cook until chicken has cooked through and greens have softened, about 5 more minutes. Add noodles to pot and remove from heat. Allow to rest until noodles have softened, 5-7 minutes. Stir in lime juice, cilantro and chopped basil. Divide soup among six bowls. If desired, top with basil and peanuts. Serve immediately.
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Stay In THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SUGAR RUSH / THE DISH /
Visit feastmagazi ne.com for three gre en teas to try in this NA highball!
What’s the Tea? serves 1 Green Tea Syrup (Yields 12 ounces) 2 Tbsp genmaicha (or any loose-leaf green tea) 4 bay leaves 1 cup boiling water 4 oz honey Green Tea Highball 1 oz green tea syrup (recipe follows) ½ oz lime juice 6 oz dry spicy ginger beer or ginger kombucha 4 dashes aromatic bitters lime end, for garnish 1 bunch fresh mint, for garnish
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
A syrup made from genmaicha, a nutty Japanese green tea with crispy brown rice, serves as a base for this NA highball. Bay leaves, honey and ginger beer provide spice, richness and effervescence, while the aromas from a bouquet of fresh mint round out your sensory vacation. This Mule-style sipper will have you forgetting that summer is still months away. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative
/ preparation – green tea syrup / Add tea and bay leaves to heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water in bowl and stir; leave to steep, 5 minutes. Strain and discard solids. Add honey and stir to incorporate. Allow to cool before bottling. Store in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – green tea highball /
Add syrup and lime juice to a 12-ounce highball glass with ice. Add ginger beer and stir to combine. Top with bitters. Garnish with lime and mint.
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
A far cry from a hastily concocted “mocktail,” this blood orange “fauxgroni” riffs on the classic Italian cocktail with blood orange shrub, cranberry juice and fresh- squeezed lemon.
yields 4 8-oz cocktails
Blood Orange Fauxgroni
Blood Orange
1 8 1 6 4
oz blood orange shrub oz cranberry juice oz fresh-squeezed lemon juice oz sparkling water slices blood orange, for garnish
/ preparation / Combine shrub, juices and sparkling water with ice and stir. Evenly distribute between four glasses and garnish with a slice of blood orange on the rim.
Try this tangy orange-Dijon vinaigrette on a leafy salad with goat cheese, pecans
Even if you’re not imbibing, shrubs can sweeten your evening.
and, of course, a few chunks of vibrant blood orange.
Typically made with a combination of fruit, sugar and vinegar, shrubs continue to grow in popularity, making them more readily available on the commercial market – but you can easily make them at home as well. All you need to get started is a basic outline.
To make the blood orange shrub used in these three recipes, combine 1 pound blood oranges (peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks), 1 cup honey and 1 cup water in
yields ¼ cup dressing
Orange-Dijon Vinaigrette ¼ cup blood orange shrub 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp ground rosemary salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste / preparation / In a bowl, whisk together blood orange shrub, Dijon mustard and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
a medium pot over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally; boil for 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer until fruit begins to break down, approximately 5 minutes. With a fork, begin to break up fruit to create a syrupy mash. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, approximately 45 minutes. Strain mixture into a 24-ounce jar with a lid and discard
The balance of sweet and spicy in this orange-ginger marinade pairs well with roasted pork. If you want to cook outside the box, use it to make a superior fried rice.
solids. Add 1 cup apple cider vinegar to jar, close and shake. Store in refrigerator for up to two weeks. story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com
yields ²⁄₃ cup marinade
Orange-Ginger Marinade ¹⁄₃ cup blood orange shrub ¹⁄₃ cup low-sodium soy sauce 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp garlic powder / preparation / In a small bowl, whisk together ingredients. Add mixture to meat or vegetable of choice and marinate, 4 to 8 hours.
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tasting events every friday A
W
ARD
S
Your Whiskey & Bourbon Headquarters
2019
sister restaurant
cafe cusco Best Vegetarian
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Celebrating 80 years in Business! 210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
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FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! Do your body and taste buds a favor and order fresh oysters • Low in fat • High in protein • Rich in minerals and vitamins
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23 City Blocks Hospitality Group • Brasserie by Niche • Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta • Edibles & Essentials • Greenbriar Hills Country Club • Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. • Russell’s • Ruth’s Chris Steak House Clayton • Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream • Sidney Street Café • Southern • St. Louis Science Center • Yolklore
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Kohlrabi & Apple Soup Winter is often a polarizing season: either you love it or you hate it.
But most people can agree that a hot bowl of earthy vegetable soup is just the ticket for braving the cold nights. Kohlrabi, also known as a German turnip, can attract bewildered looks from shoppers, but the knobby purple or green vegetable shouldn’t be snubbed. It is fantastically versatile with a flavor and texture that falls between cabbage and broccoli stems. Used here, it makes for a velvety, creamy (and vegan – in case you’re eliminating things in the new year) soup. Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri photography by drew piester
serves 4 3 2 ½ 3 1 2 1 2 1
Tbsp olive oil leeks, thinly sliced yellow onion, large dice salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste heads kohlrabi, peeled and large dice apple, peeled and large dice Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and large dice cup white wine cups water 13.5-oz can coconut milk
/ preparation / In a medium saucepan over
medium high heat, add olive oil, leeks and onion and season with salt and pepper to taste; sauté until ingredients are slightly caramelized, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Add kohlrabi, apple and potato and season with salt and pepper to taste; sauté, 2 minutes. Add wine and leave mixture to simmer, 2 minutes. Add water and simmer until vegetables are tender, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly, 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully spoon soup into a blender and purée until very smooth. Transfer soup back to saucepan and add coconut milk. Gently reheat, adjust seasoning as needed and serve warm.
Add a pinch of microgreens and black pepper for a next-level presentation.
pair with: Traminette
PA I R IT!
Traminette, a white hybrid grape, produces wine with floral notes and hints of citrus. Try this soup with Jowler Creek Vineyard and Winery’s semi-sweet Traminette, produced in Platte City, Missouri. Its aromatics, bright apple and pear flavors and crisp finish make it a great match for the apple and kohlrabi in this recipe. –Hilary Hedges jowlercreek.com
Cold-Pressed Juice Sometimes getting your greens is as simple as grabbing a bottle of juice. Generally extracted from fresh fruits and vegetables with a hydraulic press and zero heat, most cold-pressed juices offer a significant amount of vitamins and minerals. Whether you’re looking for an energy boost, a nutritious addition to your diet or a full juice cleanse, these locally made cold-pressed juices are all great options. Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by chris bauer
Chris Goode became passionate about healthy living after watching the documentary Fat, Sick & Nearly Dead and subsequently started Ruby Jean’s Juicery – named for his grandmother, who died from diseases attributed to her diet. At Ruby Jean’s in Kansas City, guests can snag bottles of fresh juice, such as Sweet Tart (apple, lemon and ginger) and Vine Street Greens (cucumber, apple, kale and lime), or craft their own from three veggies and two fruits. rubyjeansjuicery.com
In the early stages of the coldpressed juice trend, Jessica Rask opened Saint Louis Juice Press to fill a gap in the local market. That was in 2012; today, the shop – now owned by Mary Whebbe – continues to delight residents with its handcrafted juices prepared daily with fresh fruits and vegetables. Whebbe also offers one-, three- and five-day juice cleanses. For each day of the cleanse, participants receive six 16-ounce bottles of various flavors of juice. For more information, visit stlouisjuice.com.
Stop by Hello Juice & Smoothie in St. Louis to pick up a cold-pressed juice with a name. Try a Brenda (beets, pineapple, lemon, red apple and ginger) or a Doug (pear, zucchini, yellow squash, bell pepper, orange and cinnamon) on your next visit. Can’t get enough? Sign up at hellojuicestl.com for a weekly subscription to any of its juice by the half-dozen or by the growler – like an old-school milkman, someone from the company will even drop the growler on your doorstep if you can’t make it into the shop.
SOURCE Juicery founders Michelle Motley and Chrissy Stevens are on a mission to fuel busy lives with healthy food options. At their juice bar on Main Street in Edwardsville, Illinois, the green juice, especially, is packed with vitamins and minerals. Choose from three different blends – Sweet Green (spinach, cucumber, pineapple, pear and lime), Clean Green (spinach, kale, cucumber, celery, parsley and lemon) or Super Charge (kale, spirulina, green apple, turmeric and lime) – among other flavors. sourcejuicery.com
Unbakery & Juicery in Kansas City uses fresh fruits and vegetables to make grab-and-go juices such as Citrus 02, a bright blend of grapefruit, aloe, apple and lemon. The 1960s A-frame building where the shop is housed was originally a bank – what was the teller’s window is now Unbakery & Juicery’s drive-thru. unbakeryandjuicerykc.com
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
Rarely (read: never) do I look to Starbucks for this column, but when something called cascara made an appearance on the coffee conglomerate’s menu, I was more than a little intrigued.
What Is It? Cascara is the husk surrounding coffee beans.
Adding cascara to cold-brew coffee is a solid idea – recombining cherry and husk
Although it’s commonly discarded during
makes for a sublime treat. And the muted pow of cascara is perfect for steeping
the roasting process, some enterprising
in herbal teas or steamed milk. Too bark-like to use as a solid ingredient, you can
souls realized the husk has value and
make the most of cascara by infusing it into simple syrup for sodas or cocktails –
began roasting and sun-drying it to reveal cascara’s unique flavor profile: A surprising combination of sweet-tart rose hip and currant compounded with more complex, almost smoky burnt sugar and maple notes. Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg
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What Do I Do With It?
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with or without alcohol – or use it to glaze root vegetables as you would use maple syrup or honey. Its sweetness bounces off hot chiles, earthy spices and fresh herbs such as rosemary and thyme. I make a big batch of the cascara simple syrup in this recipe to have on hand any time I want to make my black coffee or roasted roots sing.
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Cascara is subtle, but as it reduces, the flavors become brighter. In this recipe, be sure to roast the turnips to just fork-tender to keep them from becoming too soft during the glaze.
Cascara-Glazed Turnips with Rosemary and Chile serves 4 to 6 Cascara Simple Syrup (Yields 2½ cups) 2 cups sugar 2 cups cold water 1 cup dried cascara Cascara-Glazed Turnips 2 to 2½ lbs white globe turnips, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch slices 1½ Tbsp olive oil kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 Fresno (red) chile, diced 2 to 3 sprigs fresh rosemary ¹⁄₃ cup cascara simple syrup (recipe follows) / preparation - cascara simple syrup / Combine sugar and water in a large saucepan and set over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar has completely dissolved. Add cascara and bring to a boil; remove from heat and allow to steep, 1 hour. Strain solids from syrup and refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation - cascara-glazed turnips / Preheat oven to
400°F. Toss turnips with olive oil and spread across two sheet pans in a single layer. Season generously with salt and pepper and roast until just tender and deep golden on underside, 18 to 20 minutes. While turnips roast, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chile and rosemary sprigs to butter and stir until fragrant, 1 minute. Add syrup and whisk to combine. Remove turnips from oven and add to butter mixture; increase heat to high. Toss frequently until turnips are golden and caramelized and syrup has reduced, 5 to 7 minutes. / to serve / Transfer into large, shallow bowl with rosemary sprigs on top. Check seasoning and serve hot.
pair with: belgian saison
You can find dried cascara online or at some specialty coffee roasters.
PA I R IT!
The soft, slightly sweet body of Boulevard Brewing Co.’s Tank 7 complements the richness and floral notes of this dessert-like root dish. Its higher ABV (8.5 percent) and citrusy hop bitterness accent the chile and rosemary additions to refresh your palate after each bite and draw you in for more. –JC Sandt boulevard.com
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
At their best, crêpes are delicate and light as air with lacy edges and decadent fillings. These sweet crêpes get their irresistible, ultra-light texture from the addition of sparkling water. Filled with sweetened crème fraîche and topped with tart blood orange segments and maple syrup, they make for an excellent breakfast to brighten your morning. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com
Bloo dO
r
Crè
me
F
îc h e Fil
Crème Fraîche Filling 1 cup crème fraîche 1 tsp granulated sugar ¼ tsp vanilla extract
w it h
ra
yields 12 8-inch crêpes
s e p ê r C e g n a
lin g
Blood Orange Crêpes 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¼ tsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 3 large eggs 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cup whole milk ¾ cup sparkling water, plus more for thinning batter if needed neutral cooking oil crème fraîche filling (recipe follows) 2 blood oranges, supremed or cut into segments pure maple syrup
/ preparation – crème fraîche filling / In a bowl, whisk together crème fraîche, sugar and vanilla. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation – blood orange crêpes / In large bowl, combine flour, salt and sugar. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, butter, vanilla, milk and sparkling water. Pour egg mixture into flour mixture and whisk until smooth (tiny lumps in the batter are OK – they’ll dissolve as the batter rests.) Cover and let rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. Heat an 8-inch crêpe pan over medium heat. Add a small amount of oil to coat the bottom of the pan and then wipe it off, leaving a thin residue to prevent crêpes from sticking. Remove crêpe batter from refrigerator and whisk until smooth. If needed, add 1 to 2 more tablespoons of sparkling water until batter’s consistency is slightly thinner than heavy cream. Pour ¼ cup of batter into hot pan and immediately tilt pan to swirl the batter into an even layer across the bottom. Let crêpe cook undisturbed, 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until the bottom is golden brown. Flip and cook for another 30 seconds. Transfer crêpe to a plate, cover with a square of parchment paper and repeat process with remaining batter, stacking each new crêpe on top of the last with parchment paper in between. / to serve / Spread 1 tablespoon of crème fraîche filling on each crêpe and fold into quarters. Top with blood orange segments, a drizzle of crème fraîche filling and maple syrup.
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Allowing the batter to rest overnight will produce that melt-in-your-mouth crêpe texture that you crave. As the batter rests, the gluten in it relaxes and the flour can fully absorb the liquid.
pair with: orange liqueur
PA I R IT!
Considering the delicate nature of crêpes (especially this style), you want to keep your pairings simple and clean. I would recommend a straight spirit over ice or with a splash of soda. Duckett Curaçao Noir from Nobletons Distilling House in Franklin County, Missouri, has enough backbone to cut through the fat of the crème fraîche filling in this recipe. The traditional cordial – made with oranges, laraha (or Curaçao orange) and spices – will bring a nice punch to the mix, rounding out the dessert without overpowering it. -Jenn Tosatto nobletons.com
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PARTY? Our spacious second floor is available for rental.
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
Nourish Café & Market owners Kalle LeMone and Kimber Dean believe that every sunrise signals a fresh start. A haven for those who crave delicious nutrientrich, unprocessed food, the downtown Columbia, Missouri, eatery boasts a menu free of gluten, soy, corn, refined sugar and preservatives. A gold mine of vitamins and minerals, this coconut-matcha smoothie – like all smoothies at Nourish – also packs a superfood punch that will help your body thrive.
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
“We use mostly organic ingredients in our smoothies, and every one has at least one superfood, [from matcha to bee pollen to turmeric]. [They] are meant to nourish and satiate without taking your blood sugar on a rollercoaster ride!” –Kalle LeMone
–Jessica Vaughn Martin
Recipe by Kalle LeMone, owner, Nourish Café & Market Photography by kim wade
yields 1 16-oz smoothie
bPRO TIP
If you’re looking for colorful add-ins for this smoothie, LeMone suggests spinach because it doesn’t have much taste or texture, but it adds much-needed nutrients.
Nourish uses fresh housemade almond milk in its smoothies. Try to use a brand without a lot of sugar and preservatives if you don’t want to make your own.
4 Tbsp olive oil 8 oz unsweetened vanilla almond milk ½ frozen organic banana ¼ cup toasted coconut flakes LeMone suggests Ora 1 tsp matcha organic and plant-based ¹⁄₈ tsp cinnamon superfood protein. 1 scoop vanilla protein powder 1 large scoop ice / preparation / Add ingredients to a blender, pop on the lid and blend on high until smooth. Pour into your favorite glass and enjoy.
▶ In collaboration with local farmers, Nourish uses the freshest organic produce in its smoothies, bowls, salads and wraps. A lot of its ingredients come from Happy Hollow Farm, one of just two certified-organic operations in mid-Missouri, which is nestled along the Missouri River in Jamestown, Missouri. Liz Graznak owner
Happy Hollow Farm 32
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Nourish Café & Market
“Kimber and Kalle are strong advocates of certified-organic production and really try to support local farms. Working with them is fantastic because they believe in the same things that I do; they are firm believers in trying to keep business local and trying to support the local community in a healthy way.”
ONE ON ONE /
ONE on
st. louis
with Florian Kuplent / brewmaster and co-founder, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Written by Heather Riske / photography by j. pollack photography
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. recently released a refreshing, hop-forward beverage – but it’s not a beer. Known for its German-inspired brews, the St. Louis brewery’s three varieties of sparkling hop water are naturally alcohol- and caloriefree. True to its name, the beverage is infused with real hops, giving it floral notes and piney flavor, but unlike beer, it doesn’t use any grain, yeast or sugar. The hop water is a first for the company, marking Urban Chestnut’s foray into the production of nonalcoholic craft beverages. It first came about as a way to provide a nonalcoholic option for attendees of the 2018 LouFest Music Festival. When the festival was cancelled, the brewery was left with kegs of hop water, which were then put on tap at its beer hall in The Grove neighborhood. It was a hit, and Urban Chestnut realized it was onto something; this past fall, it released its first round of canned hop water at its tasting rooms. This year, the brewery plans to expand distribution of the product – making it easier than ever to reach for a refreshing brew without the booze.
How would you describe the flavor profile of the hop water? It turned out really nice. It’s something different; it’s not bitter. We definitely didn’t want it to capture the bitterness of the hops, but more the aromatics and the flavor [of the hops].
then carbonate it and package it. We use the same base for all three of the hop waters; we have a grapefruit-infused hop water, a gingerinfused hop water [and a soon-to-be-released CBD-infused hop water], so we add those essences in after.
display and express those specific aromas and flavors. You definitely get that in the hop water as well. There are different compounds in hops in general; we were specifically looking for the aromatic, citrusy compounds and not the bittering substances.
How is the hop water made? It’s a slightly less complicated process than making beer. We take filtered water (the same water we use for our brews) and infuse it with Citra hops and
Tell us about the hops you use. We use Citra hops because, as the name implies, they definitely have more of the citrus fruit flavor and aroma, so they were basically bred to
The hop water was one of the surveys at The U.R.B., Urban Chestnut’s research pilot brewery. What was that R&D process like? Typically we look at what flavors are preferred –
Grapefruit For its initial release, Urban Chestnut turned to a popular flavor across the sparkling water market: Its grapefruit-infused hop water features a striking pink can and a subtle tartness.
Ginger Urban Chestnut’s ginger-infused hop water also proved to be a crowd favorite during R&D at The U.R.B.; the addition of ginger gives it a slightly spicy kick.
lemon, lime or grapefruit, for example – and also the impact – how much grapefruit, for example, or how much hop flavor people prefer. [We] come up with two to three options for people to judge and then pick their preferred version. It’s first figuring out exactly what flavor options people want and then seeing what amount of aroma and flavor they prefer in that regard.
urbanchestnut.com
classic Never had hop water before? Urban Chestnut's classic hop water makes for a good introduction. The refreshing sparkling beverage isn't bitter; rather, the use of Citra hops lends it a slight citrus flavor.
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
In this class, you’ll learn how to treat eggplant well. To peel or not to peel, salt or not salt – those are the questions. You’ll also become a pro at whipping up a beautiful antipasto platter fit for myriad occasions.
Deconstructed Eggplant Parmesan Classic eggplant Parmesan is smothered in cheese and sauce and baked like a casserole. While that approach certainly makes for a warm, comforting dish, this deconstructed version is lighter and sure to win over the hearts of eggplant-haters with its crispiness from the fried eggplant slices. Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., Jan. 15, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.
RSVP
nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school
or call 314.909.1704 34
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 0
serves 4 to 6 Marinara Sauce ¼ c up extra-virgin olive oil 10 garlic cloves, peeled 2 28-oz cans whole San Marzano tomatoes 1 c up sweet Marsala wine 1m edium onion, peeled and cut in half 1 t sp kosher salt ¼ c up fresh parsley, rough chopped Deconstructed Eggplant Parmesan 3 l arge eggs 1 t sp kosher salt, divided 2 cups dried Italian-flavor bread crumbs 1 c up grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for garnish ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper ½ cup vegetable oil 2 small eggplants, sliced ½-inch thick marinara sauce, for garnish (recipe follows) fresh parsley, for garnish
/ preparation – marinara sauce / In a large
sauté pan over medium heat, add oil and garlic. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, reducing heat if garlic starts to brown. Stir in tomatoes and wine; increase heat to medium high and bring mixture to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add onion and cook until tomatoes release their oil, stirring occasionally, 20 to 25 minutes. Add salt and parsley; cook for 5 to 10 more minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. / preparation – deconstructed eggplant parmesan / Preheat oven to 425°F and line
two baking sheets with paper towel. In a bowl, whisk eggs and ½ teaspoon salt together. In a separate bowl, combine bread crumbs, cheese, ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Set skillet with oil over medium high heat. With each slice of eggplant, dip in egg mixture and then coat with bread crumb mixture. Carefully slip into hot oil and cook until browned on one side. Be sure not to crowd pan with eggplant
slices; each slice should lay flat. Flip and cook until browned on opposite side. Remove from pan and set on baking sheet (do not stack fried eggplant). Once all eggplant slices have been fried, remove paper towel from baking sheets, redistribute eggplant slices and place baking sheets in oven, one on top rack and one on bottom rack; bake for 5 minutes. Switch pans to opposite rack, turn pans and cook for another 4 minutes, until eggplant is crispy. / to serve / Add two or three eggplant slices to each plate, spoon marinara sauce over the top and garnish with cheese and parsley. Serve hot.
MAKE THE MEAL • Bagna Càuda • Italian Chopped Salad • Deconstructed Eggplant Parmesan • Tiramisù
CULINARY LIBRARY /
springfield, mo
with Daniel Ernce / chef & co-owner, Progress tCooking with his mother, Daniel Ernce developed a love for food at a young age. By the time
he reached high school, he would kick his parents out of the house in order to host dinner parties for his friends. Now, as chef and co-owner of Progress, the acclaimed fine-dining restaurant in Springfield, Missouri, he brings his culinary style – inspired by his travels, his mentors and his hunger for knowledge – to the plate of everyone who walks through the door. Here, Ernce shares three cookbooks that have helped define his voice as a chef. –Kasey Carlson
Relæ: A Book of Ideas
LudoBites: Recipes and Stories from the Pop-Up Restaurants of Ludo
by Christian F. Puglisi (2014)
Lefebvre by Ludovic Lefebvre (2012)
“This book of ideas does have recipes, but it is more of a chef’s musings on ingredients and techniques. Long-winded diatribes about the importance of filtered water, waxing poetic about single ingredients such as carrots or buttermilk – these are the kinds of longform narratives you’ll find in the book. For me, it’s all incredibly compelling and innovative. It’s a book for chefs, home cooks and/or serious foodies.”
“I picked this one up during college and was enamored with [Lefebvre]’s culinary flair, voice and adventurous, avant-garde, no-rules-apply approach to food and flavors. I was spellbound by his whimsical, but exacting approach to food and, of course, the concept of pop-up dining, which he introduced to Los Angeles. LudoBites, [the book], became the catalyst for starting Progress and an inspiration as to how to reframe what and how I think about food and what it could be.”
Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child (Vol. 1) (1983) “My mom asked for this book for Christmas one year. This was right around the time I was starting to branch out on my own and discover my own culinary interests outside of [her] cooking. This cookbook became not only an inspiration, but a rubric for techniques and flavors.”
coming soon
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HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
NAME Arbequina Cailletier / Taggiasca A few decades ago, buying olives for your relish tray meant choosing green or black, pimiento-stuffed or not. Today, the world is as close as the nearest well-stocked olive bar, where you can find cultivars from around the globe. This accessibility has changed the way we think about olives – less like a ready-made product and more like fresh produce. Here we’ll learn how different varieties get their individual texture and flavor and how to pick the best olives (and olive oil) for your needs.
Cerignola Castelvetrano Kalamata Leccino
Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg
Manzanilla Niçoise
Nyon Picholine
For a comprehensive list of olive varieties, visit feastmagazine.com. 36
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10 Varieties Worth Seeking Out REGION
color
TEXTURE & FLAVOR PROFILE
Spain / Argentina / Peru / Chile / U.S.
light brown
firm outside with a mild, slightly fruity flavor
France / Italy
medium to dark brown
firm outside and soft, meaty inside with intense herbal flavor
Italy
green (or cured red or black)
meet bidni The vibrant
firm outside and meaty, juicy inside with a mild, familiar flavor
purple Bidni olive is one of the most unique varieties in the
Italy
bright green
very firm outside and soft, buttery inside with a light and mild flavor
world and is renowned for its superior oil, which is low in
Greece
reddish-black
soft all over with a fruity, slightly bitter flavor
acidity. Native to the island nation of Malta, Bidni olive trees
Italy
light brown
sweet and spicy, but mild
are designated national monuments.
Spain
green
plump and meaty with a verdant snap and fresh, nutty, briny flavor
They are thought to be the most ancient species
France
France
dark brown (thanks to mature picking) indigo black
on the island,
slightly sweet, smoky and bitter
with some dating back to the 1st century
small, soft and chewy with light fruit and grass flavors; mild and slightly earthy/bitter
A.D. Despite their age, the trees continue to bear fruit, which is lightly
France
green
small, firm and crisp with mild and fruity flavor
fried in oil before being packed in brine.
Honorable Mention: Developed in the late 18th century, California-grown Mission Olives are the only U.S. olive officially recognized by the International Olive Council. They are also included in the Ark of Taste, a list of endangered heritage foods throughout the world. Their mild, go-with-anything flavor is perfect in all sorts of applications, and their grassy, clean finish gives them broad appeal, even among timid olive-eaters. Choose either the black oil-cured or the green brine-cured variety for your next party. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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THE MIX / 3 ways /
2
The Cure Popping fresh, straight-off-the-branch olives into your mouth while lazing in a sun-soaked Italian field seems dreamy, right? Unfortunately, in reality, fresh olives are abrasive and bitter when picked. Before landing on your plate, they have to undergo a curing process – that’s the only way to bring out the texture and flavor inherent to each variety. It’s simple science: Olives contain phenols, specifically oleuropein – a type of phenolic bitter compound found in green olive skin, flesh and seeds – and the curing process
HEALTHY APPETITE + MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / THE DISH /
Water Cure For: unripened or nearly-ripe green olives Results in: tart, snappy flavor In seaside towns, it’s possible to cure olives in the cool salt water by placing them in a mesh bag and tying it up on the side of a dock. More commonly, olives are put in large glass canning jars or large oak barrels with water and left to soak until the bitterness is gone – a process that can take weeks, in which the water has to be changed multiple times. Typically, water-cured olives are finished with a brine of water, salt and either vinegar or lemon juice.
Natural Brine Cure For: fully ripened black olives Results in: soft texture and sweet, intense flavor Olives go straight into the brine with this method, where they sit for several months or up to a year. The brine is changed approximately every week – a process that continues until all the bitterness is gone. Once finished, the olives are stored in a mixture of water, salt, vinegar and olive oil.
removes those elements by leeching them out of the fruit and allows its layers of sweet, fruity,
Lye Cure
herbaceous and spicy goodness
For: green and black olives
to come through. Environment plays a critical role here. An olive cultivar grown inland will have a different profile than the same one grown near the sea and a variety grown in California will vary from the same type grown in Italy because the different soils and weather conditions alter the end result. But no matter where they’re grown, unless they're being harvested and pressed for oil, olives need some sort of cure before you can pop one in your mouth.
Each variety has its favorite cure, and here’s how it’s done.
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Results in: tamped-down, muted flavors compared to water and natural brine cure Curing olives in vats of alkaline lye solution is a shortcut to final results, and large commercial production depends on it to get olives to market quickly. Those olives still taste like olives, however, due to the chemically accelerated process, the depth of flavor and nuance of texture may not be as pronounced as they are with other methods.
Dry Cure For: fully ripened black olives Results in: soft, wrinkled fruit with concentrated, sweet flavor For a dry cure, olives are packed in salt and left undisturbed for a month. As the salt pulls moisture from the olives, they soften and become wrinkled. Once the process is complete, the olives are either stored in olive oil – which plumps them up a bit, like a raisin – or tossed in olive oil and eaten as they are.
QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Put the EV in your 00. “Extra-virgin” is not a buzzword: Extra-virgin is a specific designation given to only the highest-grade olive oils. Extra-virgin olive oil, by definition, is unrefined, cold-pressed and chemical-free; the designation is evidence of care taken during the entire production process. Bear in mind that olive oils within this category can vary in individual quality, fragrance and flavor.
Light? Not Right. Buying light olive oil is like buying light coconut milk: It’s not a special variety of oil made from a mild-flavored cultivar, but rather a watereddown version of what was once a decent product. In the case of olive oil, it means the product has been subjected to chemical processes that strip it of much of its inherent flavor and degrade its overall integrity.
What’s Your Sign? Olive oils boast where they’re from right on the front of the bottle, big and bold for everyone to see. Beware: That “Product of Some Exotic Country Known for Olives” label is distracting you from the small print on the back. Turn the bottle over and look for the country of origin mark – generally initials – signifying where the olives were actually grown rather than where they were packaged. Choose one where the olives were grown and the oil was manufactured in the same place; travel takes time, and if your olives have trekked across borders, they’ve degraded before the curing process can begin.
Nowadays, it’s difficult to grocery shop without experiencing decision fatigue. Buzzwords lurk around every corner, and it’s nearly impossible to know which matter and which are simply there to distract you. When choosing a quality olive oil, you have to look beyond the flashy phrases, striking labels and colorful tins. Here’s where to start.
Harvest Date. Olive oil doesn’t last forever – olives are only good for approximately two years, gradually degrading after the initial harvest, even in the form of oil. While a bottle may not list an expiration date, look for the harvest date, and try to buy an olive oil that has been harvested as recently as possible to get the best flavor.
Tall, Dark and Handsome. Have you ever wondered why fancy olive oils come in vibrant, multicolored tins? Beauty aside, those tins provide a cool, dark haven for olive oil. Light and heat cause olive oil to go rancid faster than it’s supposed to, so producers who want their product to have sufficient shelf life ensure optimum conditions for their oil. A dark glass or opaque metal container is really the only option. If you see olive oil in anything else, walk away.
Price Point. You’ve scoured every square inch of that appropriately dark bottle to find the perfect olive oil, but what about the price? It matters, but more as a guideline than a steadfast rule. An outrageously expensive oil won’t necessarily be the best, but the dirt cheap one probably won’t meet your expectations either. In general, look for a sturdy, moderately priced option that meets all of your criteria.
Choose Your Own Adventure. Your head is filled with knowledge; use it at your favorite local international market, where you’ll find a dizzying array of imports in equally as exciting packaging – but I know you won’t let that distract you from selecting a first-rate olive oil.
Better yet, keep it local (and interactive) by visiting these specialty shops throughout the region. Ask questions, get more information and sample oils until you find your favorites.
An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, Missouri, extravirginoo.com di Olívas, 617 S. Main St., St. Charles, Missouri, diolivas.com Olivino, multiple locations, olivinotastingbar.com DiGregorio’s Italian Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, digregoriofoods.com
Where there
Cold marinated olives are common, but have you ever tried them roasted? Roasting brings out the intricacies of an olive’s flavor and makes infusing them with herbs and spices a snap. Pits don’t matter here: If you use a variety with pits, the slow roast will loosen them from the meat enough to make them easy to eat around.
are olives, there is cheese. Talk to your local cheesemonger about which cheeses to pair with the olives you’ve selected for this recipe and maybe add some dried meats and pickled vegetables to create an entire spread. Serve it up with grissini (crispy thin breadsticks) and toasted flatbreads.
Boone Olive Oil Co., 20 S. 9th St., Columbia, Missouri, booneoliveoil.com
For a grissini recipe made with grano arso (burnt wheat flour), visit feastmagazine.com.
The Tasteful Olive, multiple locations, thetastefulolive.com Heavenly Olive Oils, multiple locations, heavenlyoliveoils.com Olive Tree, 7044 W. 105th St., Overland Park, Kansas, olivetreekc.com Tantara Farms, 4121 S. Fremont Ave., Suite 116, Springfield, Missouri, tantarafarms.com
Slow-Roasted Olives with Citrus and Herbs serves 8 to 10
f
Stuf It!
3 3 2 2 3 to 4 1
cups mixed olives cloves garlic, peeled and smashed medium Fresno chiles, seeds removed and minced Tbsp olive oil sprigs fresh rosemary dried bay leaf zest and juice of 2 medium lemons, zest finely chopped sea salt
/ preparation / Preheat oven to 325°F. Make a foil packet large enough for olives to lay in a single layer. In a medium bowl, add olives, garlic and chiles; toss with olive oil. Transfer to foil packet; lay rosemary sprigs and bay leaf over top. Seal foil packet tightly, crimping edges together to close. Place on baking sheet and roast for 45 to 55 minutes until fragrant and tender. Remove from oven and let cool until just warm. / to serve / Transfer olives to a low serving bowl; toss with lemon zest and juice and season with sea salt. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Looking for the perfect olive to stuff? Cerignola will take your olive bar to the next level. A jumbo-sized olive that can be green or black, this cultivar has a classic flavor and usually comes pitted, so it’s easy to stuff. Let your imagination run wild: Stuff Cerignola olives with cheese, peppers, garlic, capers or anchovies – or any combination of these. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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PROMOTION promotion
EDITED BY BETHANY CHRISTO
Y O U R W E D D I N G DAY Make the most of your magical moment with Feast’s third-annual wedding guide. Turn the page for hot rehearsal spots, custom-catering options and one-of-a-
guide D I D N E
G
W
kind ideas for venues and parties.
2020 EDITED BY AUBREY BYRON
A FEAST-FORWARD GUIDE TO THE BIG DAY Amazing food is a must for every aspect of a wedding, whether it’s the bridal shower, rehearsal dinner, the reception or the after-party. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Make your special day memorable with Tower Grove Park’s iconic venues. Our indoor and outdoor venues present charm, history and romance unlike any in the region. • Piper Palm House, an elegant conservatory • Stupp Center, unique octagonal space with a secret garden • Historic Music Stand surrounded by bust of composers • Ruins by the fountain and lily ponds
Learn more or reserve your space at towergrovepark.org/venues or 314.771.4454.
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Photo Credits: JACOBY PHOTO & DESIGN
Tim Gryseels
Š
Celebrate with us! Weddings Special Events Weekend Getaway Wine Tastings Vineyard Tours Craft Beers
Potosi, MO www.edg-clif.com Three breathtaking locations one amazing choice,
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PHOTO BY SARA MARIE PHOTOGRAPHY
Our venue settings range from elegant to casual. With multiple venues to fit ANY budget.
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PROMOTION
Catering KENRICK’S
Kenrick’s understands how special your
wedding day is. Not only do they cater, they take care of the entire event! From planning to equipment rentals to delicious reception food, their wedding planner works with you to create the event of your dreams. Whether you’re planning an evening feast or a special luncheon buffet, Kenrick’s has the vision and the skills to put it all together.
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PROMOTION
WEDDING GUIDE
K AT I E ’ S P I Z Z A & PA S TA
Make your big day even more memorable with modern Italian catering from Katie’s Pizza & Pasta. Seasonally curated menus feature award-winning pizzas, antipasti, salads and pastas. Try their famous Fried Artichoke Salad, Meatball Pizza, Seafood Stew Cacciucco or Lobster Spaghetti, and your guests will be raving.
T H E PA S TA H O U S E From family gatherings to wedding receptions, The Pasta House offers a variety of menu options and full-service solutions. Create a memorable experience when you choose The Pasta House Co. Catering team for your wedding reception, rehearsal dinner, business lunch, special occasion or family gathering.
BEAST CRAFT BBQ Beast offers expertly crafted, meat-centric catering options from à la carte to full-service, including the option to serve a whole hog. Enjoy buffet-style sides and even a vegetarian option to treat all of your guests. A director of catering is on staff to help build your wedding menu.
Rules
WORTH BREAKING
HELLO BRUNCH Who said you have to have a rehearsal dinner? Switch things up with a lovely midmorning brunch and plenty of mimosas.
GUEST LIST Typically the rehearsal guest list is limited to the wedding party, but inviting out-of-town friends and family is a thoughtful way to welcome those who have traveled to celebrate.
L E AV E T H E T U X AT H O M E Reheasal-dinner attire is typically thought of as formalwear, but if that’s not your thing, think outside the box. A local brewery for finger-licking barbecue, anyone? / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Celebrate with your girls!
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FEBRUARY 16, 2020
@ RIVER CITY CASINO
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WEDDING EXPO | 12 - 3PM • Variety of vendors • Thousands of dollars in give-aways • Unlimited food tastings and more!
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WEDDING GUIDE
PROMOTION
C L E V E L A N D - H E AT H The rehearsal venue at Cleveland-Heath offers a quaint, private dining area with many flexible menu options, not to mention an extensive wine list. Enjoy the care of personal servers and bar service when you book your rehearsal dinner or private party.
CHAPEL OF THE OZARKS AT TO P O F THE ROCK A lovely, three-story wedding chapel is nestled at the edge of Top of the Rock, offering serene views overlooking Table Rock Lake. Evoking the iconic American country churches from centuries past, the wedding chapel has main and lower levels, offering gorgeous Ozark Mountain and lake views with room for 180 guests.
CYRANO’S Cyrano’s private event room accommodates 50 to 70 people and features an eclectic, unique design. Affordable plated and buffet packages are available for lunch or dinner. Plus try their irresistible desserts! Book for a rehearsal dinner, bridal shower or small reception.
FAVA Z Z A ’ S ON THE HILL Along with great Italian food, Favazza’s has hosted thousands of rehearsal dinners in its 40 years. Book any of its five private areas, including The Patio Garden. They also offer catering for every budget and event – from small dinners to a full-service wedding reception. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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T
ucked into the Ozark Mountains of Missouri, overlooking Table Rock Lake, the natural beauty of Big Cedar Lodge makes it the ideal wedding destination. With four distinctively unique chapels and multiple outdoor venues, this world-class resort offers something for every bride and groom. Big Cedar’s team of wedding experts can assist you in planning everything from the engagement party to the honeymoon. Call or visit the website to start planning your special day.
855.961.2886 bigcedarweddings.com 48
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The Perfect Venue For Your Rehearsal Dinners! Quaint, private dining area with a ton of flexible menu options, Not to mention an extensive wine list.... 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm First Come - First Serve (No reservations)
Unique private room centrally located in Webster Groves!
St. Louis’ premier wedding reception facility providing an authentic Italian wedding experience Accommodates up to 500 guests / Catering by Favazza’s
3 additional rooms including an outdoor patio with fireplace also available at Favazza’s for private parties. Wedding Inquiries: 314-772-4454 / info@favazzas.com
Contact our Event Manager at 314-963-3434 or events.cyranos@yahoo.com
2300 Edwards Street, St. Louis, MO Roseofthehill.com
5201 Southwest Street, St. Louis, MO Favazzas.com / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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PROMOTION
venues
KEMPER MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART At Kemper Museum, your guests have
the opportunity to explore the galleries, experience incredible food from Café
Sebastienne and enjoy impeccable service from the Museum’s special event staff during your event of any size. This amazing your guests with world-class artwork, conveniently located one block from Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
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PHOTO BY BEPAGAFOTO
contemporary venue surrounds you and
WEDDING GUIDE
PROMOTION
EDG-CLIF Edg-Clif Vineyard is a romantic destination for your wedding. Located just one hour from St. Louis, Missouri, hold your ceremony in the picturesque vineyards followed by a celebratory tent reception. Packages include on-site lodging for the bridal party to primp, party and photograph.
INNSBROOK RESORT Elegant venues with aweinspiring natural beauty await couples at Innsbrook (less PHOTO BY EMILY CHOWNING PHOTOGRAPHY
than an hour from St. Louis). Couples can customize their celebrations from start to finish with venues ranging from the stunning lakeside stage to an elegant, yet rustic event center and more. Whether an intimate gathering or a grand event – up to 400 guests, Innsbrook has the perfect
CROWN COUNTRY Crown Country is your perfect all-inclusive wedding destination. With multiple breathtaking locations and the convenience
PHOTO BY JACOBY PHOTO & DESIGN
backdrop for any celebration.
of nearby lodging, Crown Country has the qualified experience to provide you with a perfect day. Both Crown Valley Winery and Crown Valley Brewery feature unforgettable menu and bar options, use of rentals and an event specialist.
TOW E R G R OV E PA R K Make your special day memorable with Tower Grove Park’s iconic venues. Their indoor and outdoor venues present charm, history and romance unlike any in the region. Whether you choose the Piper Palm House, the Stupp Center, the historic Music Stand or simply the ruins by the fountain and lily ponds, Tower Grove Park has something for everyone. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Your Delicious Wedding Moment BEGINS WITH
Here, ther , anywhere & any e menu
From Elegant to Casual, Buffet to BBQ Kenrick’s is priced to fit your needs, with the service that you deserve. ♦ Wedding Receptions ♦ Hall Packages ♦ Engagement Parties ♦ Bridal Showers ♦ Rehearsal Dinners
♦ Post-Wedding Brunch ♦ Full Bar Options ♦ Equipment Rental ♦ Shrimp Boils ♦ Whole Hog Roasts
314-631-2440 | www.kenricks.com
Weddings Rehearsals Private Parties Special Occasions www.pastahouse.com Call (314) 644-1400 for your next meeting or party.
Preferred Caterer for: The Jewel Box in Forest Park The World’s Fair Pavilion in Forest Park The Lodge in Des Peres Center of Clayton The Magic House The Old Post Office NEO on Locust Mahler Ballroom
An unconventionAl twist to conventionAl cAtering! let us cater your next event www.thebitekc.co
in the grove | 4156 manchester ave., St. Louis, MO 63110
beastbbqstl.com
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contact us now at…
816-503-6059 • catering.thebitekc@gmail.com 23 E 3rd st • Kansas City, MO 64106
PROMOTION
[DIRECTORY]
[ I L L I N OI S ]
[ST. L OUIS]
[ MISSOURI ]
CLEVELAND-HEATH 160 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
[ S T . L O UI S ]
FAVAZZA’S ON THE HILL 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.772.4454 favazzas.com
[ S T . L O UI S ]
CYRANO’S 603 E. Lockwood Ave. Webster Groves, MO 314.963.3232 cyranos.com
[ M I S S OUR I ]
BIG CEDAR LODGE: CHAPEL OF THE OZARKS 190 Top of the Rock Rd. Ridgedale, MO 417.335.2777 bigcedar.com/weddings
KATIE’S PIZZA & PASTA 9568 Manchester Rd. St. Louis, MO 314.942.6555 14171 Clayton Rd. Town and Country, MO 636.220.3238 katiespizzaandpasta.com
[ST. L OUIS]
BEAST CRAFT BBQ 4156 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 618.257.9000 beastbbqstl.com
[ST. L OUIS]
KENRICK’S MEATS & CATERING 4324 Weber Rd. St. Louis, MO 314.631.2440 kenricks.com
[MISSOURI & IL L INOIS]
THE PASTA HOUSE CO. 22 locations throughout Missouri and Illinois 314.644.1400 pastahouse.com
NOTES:
EDG-CLIF FARMS & VINEYARD 10035 Edg-Clif Dr. Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com
[ST. L OUIS]
TOWER GROVE PARK 4257 Northeast Dr. St. Louis, MO 314.771.4454 towergrovepark.org/venues
[MISSOURI]
CROWN VALLEY WINERY 23589 State Rte. WW Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.756.9463 crownvalleywinery.com CROWN VALLEY BREWING AND DISTILLING 13326 State Hwy F Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.756.9700 crownvalleybrewery.com
[MISSOURI]
INNSBROOK RESORT 596 Aspen Way Dr. Innsbrook, MO 636.928.3366 innsbrook-resort.com
[KANSAS C I T Y]
KEMPER MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART 4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.753.5784 Kemperart.org/event-space
THE PINK BRIDE Join The Pink Bride Wedding Show in St. Louis on Saturday, Jan. 11 and Sunday, Jan. 12. The largest wedding show in St. Louis features over 100 of St. Louis’ top wedding professionals, four fashion shows, show-only discounts and a chance to win two bachelorette parties! Tickets are $12. thepinkbride.com. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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• Premier Event Facility 50 Miles South of the Arch • 30+ Beautiful Acres • Seating Available for Up to 300 Guests • Elegant & Unique Setting • Beautiful Wooded Areas for Wedding Photos
Menus range from traditional to custom designed. We’ll cater to any location or one of our elegant facilities.
8614 Berry Road, Bonne Terre, MO 63628 • (314) 769-CAVE (2283) • www.stoneparkmo.com
Outstanding Cuisine, Creative Presentation and Exceptional Service!
NOODLE HOUSE SPECIALIZING IN RAMEN AND PHO
Call to schedule a Free menu tasting! Some restrictions apply. South County
314.638.6660
| Maryland heightS
314.453.9000
www.OrlandoGardens.com
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East Loop 6105- A Delmar nudohousestl.com @NudohouseSTL 11423 Olive Blvd
8396 Musick Memorial Dr maileestl.com @MaiLeeSTL
56 gut feeling Learn how Lisa Bledsoe transformed Tea-Biotics from a hobby into a kombucha empire in Olathe, Kansas.
61 the pursuit of wellbeing Nonalcoholic craft beer is taking the market by storm. Meet the St. Louis-based brewery helping to lead the charge.
67 proof of concept Want to make delicious nonalcoholic cocktails at home? Try one of these recipes from some of the best bartenders in the region.
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How Lisa Bledsoe built Tea-Biotics into a kombucha empire in Olathe, Kansas
Written by April Fleming / photography by alistair tutton Lisa Bledsoe started drinking kombucha for a simple reason: She wanted to cut soda out of her diet. She had heard kombucha referred to as a natural, fizzy and healthy alternative, and as a then stay-at-home mom, she was intrigued by the idea of being able to make it herself at home. She figured the process would be fun, and she might even like the stuff. What she wasn’t prepared for was how she would feel after drinking it. “My skin changed, my hair changed, my allergies went away,” she says of her experience a few months into her daily dose of kombucha. “I had more energy, more clarity, [and] I started sharing it with friends, saying, ‘You gotta try this. This is crazy.’” Bledsoe attributes the improvements in her health to the bounty of probiotic properties found in kombucha due to its natural fermentation process. Many nutritionists believe kombucha, along with other fermented foods, improve overall gut health by helping digestion, decreasing inflammation and providing a more balanced gut microbiome. Bledsoe started out making kombucha with a few jars in her kitchen and sharing bottles with friends, but she was soon being hounded by those same friends for more and more of the stuff. The jars multiplied, eventually taking over her kitchen entirely. She laughs and explains, “When I say ‘demanded,’ I mean they just wouldn’t stop bothering me about buying it. They’d say, ‘I don’t want just one bottle, I want to buy six or 12 of them.’ Probably 40 times someone called me about it.” As her youngest child neared kindergarten, she finally relented to the demand. The jars that had eaten up her kitchen counter space morphed into four 55-gallon vats that occupied her entire dining room, and dozens of people started coming to her house every Monday to get their fill. “It was really crazy. [On Mondays], the driveway and street were regularly packed with cars; I was making 400 gallons [of kombucha] out of my house every 10 or so days – my little hobby was taking over,” she says. To turn her house back into a home and grow her customer base beyond her friends and family, she knew she had to move into a brick-and-mortar location. Approximately three years after brewing her first batch of kombucha, Bledsoe found a 2,000-square-foot warehouse space off of South Strang Line Road in Lenexa, Kansas, and set up shop. Tea-Biotics was officially born.
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Lisa Bledsoe, owner, tea-biotics
On its own, a SCOBY doesn’t look like much: Some describe it as a colorless blob, a slimy sponge or even a soggy piece of bread. In actuality, a SCOBY is a rubbery, living, solid mass of bacteria and yeast, which aids in the fermentation of tea. It creates the “magic” behind kombucha’s brewing process, imparting both the vinegary tang and the crucial fizziness that kombucha is celebrated for. And though putting a hunk of yeasty bacteria in your drink might not initially sound appealing, this type of bacteria, when properly cared for, results in a liquid loaded with probiotics that are good for your gut. Probiotics aid in digestion and are believed to offer a wide variety of other health benefits, from clear skin to an improved immune system to reduced anxiety.
You can purchase a SCOBY online or cultivate it at home.
Bledsoe takes pride in the fact that Tea-Biotics’ kombucha is brewed using the same small-batch process she started out with in her home kitchen. Her team, whether they are brewing in 55-gallon stainless steel fermentation tanks or two-gallon jars, still stir and flavor each batch, large and small, by hand. The process of making kombucha is relatively simple, explains Bledsoe. Tea-Biotics’ brewers start with The Tea-Biotics team brews kombucha in two-gallon jars and 55-gallon stainless steel fermentation tanks, which are tightly covered with cheesecloth.
reverse-osmosis filtered water – a small, but critical detail, as Bledsoe insists that the highest-quality ingredients make the best finished product. They use the water to brew a proprietary blend of black and green tea, and after it’s steeped and cooled, they add more water and organic cane sugar into the mix. A SCOBY (symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast) and kombucha starter (acidic liquid from a previous batch of kombucha) are then added, after which time the mixture sits and ferments for 10 to 14 days in a warm, dry space, ideally between 72 and 80 degrees. As the SCOBY feeds on the sugar, natural carbonation occurs. Each SCOBY looks a little different, but most resemble ivory-colored layers of pancakes that feel slick and slightly spongy to the touch, although they typically have a firm texture. SCOBY also self-propagate: As the kombucha ferments, a new SCOBY slowly forms at the top of the brew. It first appears as a thin film and gradually thickens into the telltale blob. When time is up, the SCOBY is removed from the mixture and either stored or added to its next batch of kombucha – at Tea-Biotics, each SCOBY is used many times before it is discarded. After the SCOBY is removed, different combinations of organic cold-pressed juices, herbs and flowers are added to the kombucha to create the final profile of Tea-Biotics’ dizzying array of flavors – more than 50 total by Bledsoe’s last count. It’s then refrigerated for 24 hours before distribution; at this stage, as the yeast and probiotics from the SCOBY continue to feed on the sugars in the juice, the kombucha obtains its delightful fizz. While some companies brew different flavors of kombucha using different teas and brewing methods, Tea-Biotics relies on the same base kombucha for all of its varieties. Its most popular flavors are blueberry, hibiscus-watermelon, cherry-lime, elderberry-mango and Beach Life (a blend of mango, pineapple and coconut originally developed as a cocktail mixer). When asked what sets Tea-Biotics kombucha apart, Bledsoe doesn’t miss a beat. “It’s everything,” she explains. “The purified water gives it a clean, crisp flavor. It’s the clean tea we use. Everything we use is high quality, and we get a certificate of analysis on everything. I was originally making this for myself and my family, and I wanted to make sure I was using the best ingredients. My kids drink this.” / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Tea-Biotics also makes an ever-expanding line of CBD-infused kombuchas, including lemon-lime and the aforementioned hibiscus-watermelon and Beach Life. Bledsoe and her team infuse the kombucha with a unique blend of CBD, which is sourced from a third party-tested supplier. Initially skeptical of CBD products, Bledsoe became more familiar with them when her husband was diagnosed with a form of skin cancer. As he began to incorporate CBD into his treatment regimen, she came to believe that it was largely responsible for his recovery. She adds that it has also been extremely beneficial in her own life. “I’ve always been a highly anxious, tightly wound person,” she says. “I had panic attacks regularly, and for me, personally, CBD eliminated all of that.” Her growing passion for CBD products along with her unshakable belief in the benefits of kombucha make the new products a natural fit for Tea-Biotics.
Tea-Biotics recently opened the world’s largest kombucha taproom, featuring 32 taps, in Olathe, Kansas.
Tea-Biotics recently closed the doors on its original 2,000-square-foot production facility and taproom so that Bledsoe and her business partner, Rich Downs, could expand into a 15,000-foot production facility and tasting room. Located in Olathe, Kansas, it’s an impressive place: It features a spacious production floor with dozens of shiny stainless steel fermenters, a sleek bottling line and the world’s largest kombucha taproom, featuring 32 taps. “We like to think of ourselves as the Baskin-Robbins of kombucha,” jokes Bledsoe. With office space as well, the facility offers the opportunity for Tea-Biotics to quintuple its capacity. “We moved into this space with the intention of moving forward,” she explains. “We could have stayed in the old space and remained a successful local business. But then I thought: What if we could venture outside of Kansas City? I want to prove that everyone across the country will like [our kombucha].” In addition to the new taproom and production facility, Tea-Biotics has opened a taproom and retail shop on 39th Street in Kansas City’s Volker neighborhood. Its products are available in various grocery stores in nine states, and the locker rooms of the Kansas City Royals, Kansas City Chiefs and Sporting Kansas City soccer club all feature Tea-Biotics taps. According to Global Info Research (GIR), a leading aggregator of market data, the kombucha industry is likely to grow from $1.24 billion in 2017 to $3.81 billion by 2023. GIR suggests that this explosion in the market will result from a sustained global health awareness; like Bledsoe when she started making kombucha in her home kitchen, consumers are more and more health-conscious and are looking for beverage alternatives with all-natural ingredients and recognized health benefits. Optimistic about the future, Bledsoe and Downs are focused on growth more than anything at the moment. “I accidentally started this company – just a hobby gone wild,” says Bledsoe. “But now we have our sights set on expanding nationwide, and we believe that it will happen.” 677 N. Lindenwood Drive, Olathe, Kansas, tea-biotics.com
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A Step-By-Step Guide to Making Kombucha What you need: 12 cups water, purified and chlorine-free, divided 6 to 8 tea bags (or 3 to 4 Tbsp loose-leaf tea) If you purchase 1 cup cane sugar a SCOBY online, it usually comes 1 gallon glass jar, sterilized with starter 1 SCOBY liquid. 1 to 2 cups starter liquid (unflavored kombucha from a previous batch or purchased starter liquid) 1 cheesecloth rubber band whole fruit, fruit juice, flowers or herbs, to taste Fresh, 100 percent juice with no added sugar is ideal. Tea-Biotics uses only organic cold-pressed juices.
Keep everything (including your hands) as clean as possible. You are culturing bacteria, but introducing harmful bacteria to your kombucha can make you sick – and make your kombucha taste funky.
In a saucepan, boil approximately 5 cups water. Remove water from heat and let cool, 1 to 2 minutes; add tea bags and steep for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove tea bags and add sugar, stirring until sugar has dissolved.
Pour tea into jar and add remaining water; let cool to room temperature, 1 to 2 hours.
The longer the fermentation, the more tart the kombucha.
With clean hands, add SCOBY and starter liquid to mixture, leaving space at top of jar for breathing room.
Tightly cover container with cheesecloth and fix it in place with rubber band. Place jar in a warm room (72 to 80°F), out of direct sunlight; let sit for 10 to 14 days . Do not refrigerate the mixture or the SCOBY at any point.
Take the original batch of kombucha and, straining it through the cheesecloth to remove any remaining SCOBY, pour it into sterilized glass drinking containers.
Add fruit, juice, flowers or herbs, to taste, to achieve desired kombucha flavor. Let sit for an additional 2 to 5 days, occasionally opening container to release carbonation. Taste the brew during second fermentation; when it has your preferred levels of acidity and carbonation, it’s ready.
After 10 to 14 days, remove SCOBY from jar with clean hands; place it in a new glass jar with 1 to 2 cups of finished kombucha (this is now your next starter liquid). Set aside.
After 2 to 5 days, refrigerate kombucha and enjoy cold.
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Written by Heather Riske / Photography by Sean Locke / Illustration by Tyler Gross
Nonalcoholic craft beer is taking the industry by storm – and St. Louis-based WellBeing Brewing Co. is at the forefront of the trend.
F
or Jeff Stevens, it all started with a simple question: “Why are there no good nonalcoholic beers?“
As an advertising exec working closely with big-name beer and spirits brands, Stevens spent the majority of his career surrounded by alcohol – but he didn’t drink. As he mingled with clients at bars, clubs and private parties around the world, he found himself longing for a nonalcoholic drink that was more than just an afterthought. Stevens quit drinking at age 24 and quickly grew tired of the options available to him – namely, sugary sodas and cloyingly sweet nonalcoholic beers. After chatting with some former colleagues in London, he realized he wasn’t the only one who felt that way and, perhaps most importantly, that – after decades in beer marketing – he had the tools to do something about it. Soon after, in 2017, he
and his wife, Genevieve Barlow, founded WellBeing Brewing Co., a nonalcoholic craft brewery based in St. Louis. When the first WellBeing beers – which are contract-brewed by the team at O’Fallon Brewery in Maryland Heights, Missouri – hit St. Louis shelves in January 2018, the company broke new ground, becoming one of the first craft breweries to specialize in nonalcoholic beer in the entire country. Two years in, the brewery has exploded onto the scene both locally and nationally; its beers are now available in stores across the country, from California to Texas to Massachusetts. WellBeing arrived on the scene just in time for a major sea change in the beer industry. Nonalcoholic beer has taken the market by storm, as small, NA-focused breweries like WellBeing crop up around the country, and international beer barons such as Heineken, Guinness and Budweiser diversify
their portfolios by expanding into the nonalcoholic sector. Companies both big and small are keeping a close eye on the market, and for good reason: By 2024, the nonalcoholic beer market is projected to become a $7 billion industry – up from $4.5 billion this year. In 2017, Reuters reported that the nonalcoholic beer industry in Europe saw sustained growth while the overall beer market shrank. And the category is earning respect among beer enthusiasts, too: This past fall, the Great American Beer Festival – generally considered the industry’s most prestigious competition in the U.S. – brought back its nonalcoholic beer category after a 14-year hiatus. So how is WellBeing – a small but mighty team led by just three full-time employees – carving a name for itself in this burgeoning billion-dollar industry? If you ask Stevens, the answer is easy: better beer. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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ver the past several decades, Stevens has tasted a lot of bad nonalcoholic beer. For him, many NA beers are too sweet – almost as if they have a teaspoon of sugar added. Although NA beer starts out much the same way as traditional beer, many breweries use either limited fermentation or stop fermentation methods to strip it of its alcohol – by limiting or stopping fermentation, the sugars don’t ferment and, as a result, no alcohol is produced. But that process affects the flavor, and the resulting beer often ends up tasting too much like wort (the sugary liquid used to make beer). That’s where WellBeing’s vacuum distillation machine comes in. The beer is placed in a vacuum chamber to lower the alcohol’s boiling point so that the alcohol is boiled off at right around room temperature – compared to around 173°F, which is the temperature brewers typically heat beer up to in order to burn off the ethanol, or alcohol, in the beer. When the beer is in the vacuum, the lower boiling point ensures that the ethanol is evaporated, but the temperature isn’t raised so much that it destroys the flavor of the beer. Since this process keeps more of the flavors intact, WellBeing beers taste different than many other NA beers on the market. They’re dry and crisp with a more rounded mouthfeel and a distinct nose. “When you smell ours – especially the Hellraiser – all those hops really come through, where [they] might have been boiled off in other NA beers,” says Stevens.
From left to right: digital marketing expert Ron Roy, brand alchemist Tom Halaska, co-founder Jeff Stevens and co-founder Genevieve Barlow From the start, Stevens and Barlow aimed to set WellBeing apart from others in its category by focusing on distinctly craft styles, including a wheat, an amber and a coffee stout. The Heavenly Body Golden Wheat, an American-style wheat with a hint of Cascade and German Tradition hops, was the first beer WellBeing released. Stevens says the company wanted to prove it could make a really good beer – just without the alcohol – by tackling an approachable, drinkable style. Based on a recipe that won a Great American Beer Festival award, the beer has a slight citrus character that balances its lighter malts, and they hope it takes nonalcoholic beer drinkers on the same journey as craft beer drinkers. Next, they wanted to stretch the WellBeing portfolio with a hoppier, darker beer. Enter the Hellraiser, a crisp, dry dark amber with a floral hop character. The brewery followed with Intrepid Traveler Coffee Cream Stout, made with lactose and coffee from local Mississippi Mud Coffee Roasters, and Victory Wheat, a golden wheat with a hint of orange. Enriched with all-natural electrolytes from St. Louis-based startup Buoy, Victory Wheat was designed with athletes in mind. “When you work out and sweat, your body loses all of these electrolytes: magnesium, calcium chloride, sodium, all the vitamins,” says Stevens. “There are just things that in the normal course of hydration you need to replenish, so that’s exactly what we put in our beer – a dose of these flavorless electrolytes that your body needs after working out.” The ultra-refreshing beer, which WellBeing describes cheekily as the “world’s healthiest beer,” also marked another first for the company – it’s the first-ever nonalcoholic craft beer made with full-spectrum electrolytes.
On Jan. 2, WellBeing plans to release its newest – and perhaps most labored-over – style: Intentional IPA. The company spent years dialing in its recipe for the beer; as Stevens explains, the world of IPAs is a big one, and they wanted to get it right. The IPA gets its signature bitterness from the addition of Mosaic and Citra hops, rounded out with distinct pineapple and peach notes, and its name is meant to inspire drinkers to start the year off with the best intentions. As they built up their portfolio, Stevens and Barlow began spreading the word about WellBeing. On the day of the brewery’s launch party, in fact, Tom Halaska – a longtime St. Louis bartender who had recently, and quite publicly, quit drinking – interviewed for a job. As he helped the pair unload beer for the event, he and Stevens got to talking about their shared experiences giving up alcohol, and it wasn’t long before Halaska landed a job as WellBeing’s “brand alchemist.” Upon leaving the local bar industry after decades, he worried that he wouldn’t have any relevance to a nonalcoholic brand, but those fears quickly vanished. “I realized that my place in the bar and restaurant industry has been reborn in a way that I’m able to create those spaces for nondrinkers, but also help educate bars and restaurants on why those spaces are necessary,” he says. And as WellBeing continues to build its brand both in St. Louis and across the country, the brewery is starting to figure out just who its customers are. In addition to sober consumers, WellBeing aims to appeal to the “sober curious,” or those who are interested in taking, say, a night or a week off from imbibing. “It’s about normalizing that,” says Stevens. “We want to become your Tuesday night beer, or your third beer.” / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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“When we first started, we didn’t know what our demographic would be,” adds Halaska. “What we found out in the past couple years is that we are selling more beer to people who drink alcohol than people who don’t. People are mixing our beer into their session – maybe they’ll have two beers with alcohol, one of our beers and then another regular beer.” The shift in perception among beer fans is perhaps nowhere more evident than that hallmark of the beer industry: festivals. WellBeing frequently participates in festivals in St. Louis and across the country, and Stevens and Halaska agree that over the past few years they’ve seen a huge change in how receptive consumers are to nonalcoholic beer. “At the first beer festivals, people would ask, ‘Why would you want to do this?’” says Stevens. “There was definitely a bit of skepticism. But after the most recent one, it feels like night and day; everyone is excited and wants to talk about the product. They’re far more accepting.” The team attributes that in part to the St. Louis Brewers Heritage Foundation, a nonprofit organization that promotes the St. Louis region as a destination for beer tourism. Halaska says the group, which hosts events throughout the year including its signature beer festivals, was quick to welcome WellBeing into the fold. Executive director Troika Brodsky says that comes down to a simple reason: At the end of the day, WellBeing is still making beer – just without the alcohol. “There’s a real need for a quality product in this sector,” he says. “And from a local standpoint, anytime someone from my hometown is doing something new and different and succeeding, that elevates everybody. It’s the idea of the rising tide floats all boats; anything that’s helping to put our city on the map in terms of innovation and putting ourselves out there as thought leaders helps everybody. I think the fact that they’re at beer festivals and having success blows a hole in the idea that what they’re doing is something separate from the brewing community. “If you can make a nonalcoholic beer that has all of the integrity and quality of any other beer, and the process that removes the alcohol isn’t undermining the taste and the flavor profile, then I’m all for it,” continues Brodsky. “That old-school way of thinking ‘What’s the point?’ – that evaporates if the beer tastes good.” And on the flip side, acceptance – both of nondrinkers and those who choose to imbibe – is a core tenet of WellBeing’s own philosophy. In addition to offering consumers a nonalcoholic beer that’s just as well-made as its boozy counterparts, Stevens, Barlow and Halaska want to create spaces where nondrinkers feel not only welcome, but part of the party. “We’re not just building a brand; we’re setting the tone for how nonalcoholic craft beer is being taken nationally,” says Halaska. wellbeingbrewing.com
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Nonalcoholic Craft Cocktail Recipes from Bartenders throughout the Region
What began as “Dry January” for some has turned into a lifestyle for others.
of As more and more local bartenders expand their zero-proof menus, the sober curious among us don’t have to miss out on the flavor and depth of a well-made beverage. Whether you’re simply taking the night off from drinking or you’ve chosen to cut alcohol from your diet all together, these recipes will give you something flavorful, enviable and exciting to sip on. –Rachel Huffman
EDITOR’S NOTE Some of these recipes contain bitters and other ingredients that have a trace amount of alcohol, which can be omitted if necessary. / j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Peel Slowly The latest creation from Grand Tavern by David Burke and Angad Rainbow Terrace (A.R.T.) beverage manager Meredith Barry is a spice-forward cocktail featuring a warming blend of baking spices and molasses. A chai-infused demerara syrup made with Rare Tea Cellar Wild
serves 1
Wild Banana Chai Demerara Syrup
of cardamom and Jamaican allspice berry from Seedlip Spice 94 (a distilled nonalcoholic
4 cups hot water 1 Tbsp Rare Tea Cellar Wild Banana Chai loose-leaf tea 4½ cups demerara sugar
spirit) and Fee Brothers bitters. The name is a nod to Andy Warhol’s pop art banana on the
Rocks Glass Garnish
Banana Chai gives the Peel Slowly a brûléed banana flavor, rounded out with additional notes
cover of Peel Slowly and See, the five-disc Velvet Underground box set, and it also references Barry’s belief that guests should sip slowly to fully enjoy the flavors of her NA cocktail.
reserved tea leaves (recipe follows) 1 pinch edible glitter Wild Banana Chai demerara syrup (recipe follows)
Peel Slowly
¼ oz Wild Banana Chai demerara syrup (recipe follows) 2 oz Seedlip Spice 94 1 dash Fee Brothers Old Fashion Aromatic Bitters 1 fresh bay leaf, for garnish 1 slice banana, dehydrated and charred, for garnish / preparation - wild banana chai demerara syrup / In a saucepan, heat water to a boil. Remove from heat and add tea leaves; steep for 10 to 15 minutes. Strain leaves from water and preserve. Return water to heat and bring to a boil again. Remove from heat and steep tea leaves again, 16 to 18 minutes. Strain leaves from water and save to garnish rocks glass. Place water back on medium heat; add demerara and stir until it has dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside until ready to use. / preparation - rocks glass garnish / Preheat oven to 140°F. Spread reserved tea leaves across baking sheet and place baking sheet in oven, approximately four hours. Once leaves are completely dehydrated, remove from oven and combine with glitter. Crush using a mortar and pestle. Dip a paint brush in the demerara syrup and draw a vertical line, from top to bottom, on a rocks glass. Sprinkle leaf-glitter mixture over the brush stroke and shake off excess to create a sparkly, aromatic garnish. / preparation - peel slowly / Pour syrup into garnished rocks glass over one large ice cube. Add Spice 94 and bitters. Stir quickly for 1 or 2 rotations to incorporate and dilute slightly. Garnish with bay leaf and banana.
recipe courtesy of
Meredith Barry beverage manager, Grand Tavern by David Burke and A.R.T. in St. Louis
Try the edible Flash Dust from local company Never Forgotten Designs.
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We don’t think that anybody should be robbed of flavor just because they’re not drinking alcohol. Your drink shouldn’t be called a ‘mocktail’ and it shouldn’t be thrown together; you should have a fun experience, as well. When someone orders a zero-proof drink from us, we load that thing up with delicious fresh juices, flowers – all the bells and whistles. We want to make everybody who’s imbibing jealous of your NA cocktail. photography by Mackenzie Romagni
Seedlip Explained This zero-proof cocktail is a riff on a gin sour. At Hogshead in Kansas City, chef-owner Clark Grant uses Seedlip Garden 108 as the base. In celebration of the English countryside, the distilled nonalcoholic spirit has a floral blend of hand-picked peas and homegrown hay direct from Seedlip founder Ben Branson’s farm. When developing the Praying Mantis-Style, Grant allowed the spirit to define the direction of the drink. With the addition of an English pea syrup, the result is a refreshingly crisp and interestingly crafted beverage. The verjus adds acidity and depth, while the celery bitters’ herbaceous quality rounds out the flavor profile.
Praying Mantis-Style serves 4
English Pea Syrup
½ cup water ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup fresh pea tendrils
Praying Mantis-Style
6 4 4 8
oz Seedlip Garden 108 oz English pea syrup (recipe follows) oz verjus dashes celery bitters fresh pea tendrils, for garnish
/ preparation - english pea syrup / In a high speed blender, combine water, sugar and pea tendrils. Turn blender on high and blend, 1 minute, or until sugar has dissolved and the syrup has taken on a bright green color. / preparation - praying mantis-style / In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients with ice. Shake vigorously for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain with a cocktail strainer, through a fine mesh tea strainer and into a Martini glass. Garnish with pea tendrils.
You may want to do this in batches based on the size of your cocktail shaker.
The team at Hogshead prepares the syrup this way to preserve the fresh flavor and vibrant color of the tendrils.
The English brand Seedlip is on a mission to change the way the world drinks. Its distilled nonalcoholic spirits take six weeks to make and are a blend of complex herbs, spices and barks selected to create a delicate flavor. When founder Ben Branson stumbled across physician John French’s recipes for distilled nonalcoholic herbal remedies published in The Art of Distillation in 1651, he began experimenting with them in his home kitchen using a small copper still and herbs from his garden. After one too many sickly sweet pink “mocktails,” Branson decided to combine his 320 years of family farming heritage, love of nature, copper still and those long-forgotten recipes to create a proper nonalcoholic option. Seedlip’s three unique blends – Spice 94, Garden 108 and Grove 42 – can be served simply with tonic or mixed with other ingredients to create sophisticated and stunning NA cocktails like these.
recipe courtesy of
Clark Grant chef-owner, Hogshead in Kansas City At its core, the hospitality industry should be an industry of inclusion. Beer, wine and spirits lists should be created with everyone in mind, including sober individuals. [At Hogshead], we designed an entire menu called ‘Crafted Refreshments’ that revolves around Seedlip spirits, WellBeing [Brewing Co.] beer and locally made kombucha. Our Crafted Refreshments arrive at your table looking and tasting like their alcoholladen counterparts – they’re a great option for people who choose to abstain from alcohol for whatever reason. photography by zach bauman
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Bananas and ripe pineapple provide a great base for this cocktail. With the addition of bay leaf and black peppercorn, there’s also an inviting hint of savory flavor amongst those tropical notes. Elmwood bar director David Greteman says he’s always loved bay leaves: “They work magic and create cohesion in many things.” This recipe also works well with a guest’s spirit of choice, which he says adds a level of versatility to it.
Nan’s Bay
serves 1
Banana-Bay Leaf Syrup
3 ½ 2 6 12 2
bananas ripe pineapple, diced cups granulated sugar bay leaves black peppercorns cups water
Nan’s Bay 2 1 1
oz banana-bay leaf syrup (recipe follows) oz lemon juice club soda slice pineapple, for garnish
/ preparation - banana-bay leaf syrup / Slice two of the bananas and smash the third with your hands; add to a small saucepan. Add remaining ingredients and heat over medium, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved. Lower heat and simmer, 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Strain and discard solids before refrigerating. / preparation - nan’s bay / Add syrup and lemon juice to a shaker tin with ice. Shake vigorously and then dump contents into a rocks glass. Top with club soda and garnish with pineapple slice.
recipe courtesy of
David Greteman bar director, Elmwood in Maplewood, Missouri There needs to be a certain depth of flavor to every cocktail, and especially NA cocktails; there needs to be some kind of interesting component. People don’t just want to order a ginger beer or a club soda. [Beverages] are a continuation of the experience of dining out, and everyone should be able to partake. From the bar side, I think that working with zero- and low-proof cocktails forces you to become more versed in the products you carry on your bar. photography by Mackenzie Romagni
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Carrot-ginger syrup is the star of this NA cocktail: The ginger juice adds a muted spiciness, while the carrot juice provides a light sweetness and stunning color. Making your own fresh-pressed juice will only enhance the flavors. If you're up for the extra work, juice eight large, peeled carrots and one cup fresh chopped ginger and strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve. With a balanced, pleasing mouthfeel, the Carrot-Ginger Buck is a surefire way to quench your thirst.
Carrot~Ginger Buck serves 1
Carrot-Ginger Syrup 1 cup fresh carrot juice ¼ cup fresh ginger juice 2½ cups agave syrup
Dried Lime Garnish
1 lime
Topo Chico is Carrot-Ginger Buck recommended, but 1 oz carrot-ginger syrup (recipe follows) Perrier works, too. 1 oz fresh lemon juice 2 dashes Fee Brothers Old Fashion Aromatic Bitters sparkling mineral water dried lime wheel, for garnish (recipe follows)
/ preparation - carrot-ginger syrup / In a bowl, combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to one month. / preparation - dried lime garnish / Preheat oven to 200°F. Line a baking sheet with a wire rack. Cut lime in ¼-inch-thick wheels and spread out in a single layer on wire rack. Place baking sheet in oven and bake for 2 to 3 hours, or until limes are crispy. Remove from oven and let cool. Store in a zip-close freezer bag for up to 1 year. / preparation - carrot-ginger buck / Combine syrup, lemon juice and bitters in a highball glass; stir to combine. Add ice to glass until it reaches the top. Top off with sparkling water and gently stir to combine so as not to disturb bubbles too much. Garnish with dried lime.
recipe courtesy of
Michael Schmitz owner and beverage director, Progress in Springfield, Missouri We live in a very visual age, and I think one of the best details you can add to a zero-proof cocktail is a thoughtful garnish or a custom straw. At Progress, we see nonalcoholic cocktails as almost sacred and we love to make sure the final product pops. photography by cheryl waller
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Low Tide serves 1
Passionfruit Syrup
½ cup passionfruit purée ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup water
Fresh or canned is fine.
Low Tide
1 oz pineapple juice ½ oz passionfruit syrup (recipe follows) ½ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz Giffard Aperitif Sirop 1 lime wedge, for garnish / preparation - passionfruit syrup / Combine passionfruit purée, sugar and water in a blender; blend on high until sugar has dissolved. Transfer to an airtight container and store in refrigerator for up to three weeks. / preparation - low tide / In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients. Shake vigorously with a small amount of pebble ice, 5 seconds. Pour everything into a Collins glass and pack with fresh pebble ice. The cocktail should sit low in the glass with ice all the way to the top to mimic a low tide. Garnish with lime wedge and a funky compostable straw.
This no-tipple Tiki cocktail was inspired by the new Giffard Aperitif Sirop, an innovative bitter syrup with a shockingly similar color and flavor to Campari, but without the alcohol. Tropical flavors from the passionfruit and pineapple balance out the cocktail’s bitterness and complexity, creating an impressive beverage that’s as good as a day at the beach.
recipe courtesy of
Adam Chase lead bartender, Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room in Kansas City I think having [a zero-proof] section of the menu in this day and age is almost essential. Adding to it and keeping it dynamic keeps people interested, but on [Corvino’s] menu, specifically, there are some mainstays that people come back and ask for as well. We have multiple regulars in the restaurant and at the bar who don’t drink, and they’re known to come back for our [housemade] cherry cream soda. I never want to put ‘meh’ on a nonalcoholic cocktail menu; I want to innovate in the same way that I would on any cocktail menu and not just be lazy with it. photography by zach bauman
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Bright, fresh flavors abound in this booze-free drink. Warm waves of spice are followed by tart, acidic undertones creating an appealing sweet and sour mixture. Jared Zillig, bar manager of Broadway Brewery in Columbia, Missouri, came up with this recipe because he hates to waste produce. Shrubs are a great way to preserve ingredients that might otherwise go bad, and juicing fruits and vegetables is another way to use them if you don’t have time to make an entire meal. tPro tip:Don’t just toss the pulp into your compost; fruit pulp can add moisture to baked goods, while vegetable pulp can flavor nutrient-rich bone broth. recipe courtesy of
Jared Zillig bar manager, Broadway Brewery in Columbia, Missouri When making an NA cocktail, I think about flavors – sweet, sour, spicy, bitter – [and then] gauge the levels of each that will be most appealing to the guest and go from there. It’s nice to use herbs and fresh-squeezed juices in there, but for me, the main part of creating a drink for someone is the shrubs. I started making shrubs at my house so as not to waste any produce I buy at the farmers’ market; if I’ve got something that I think is gonna go bad, it’s really the perfect time to make it into a shrub. And I do it a little differently: [My shrubs] are based on infusing the vinegar in the first step. I put all the ingredients I’m using in vinegar in a nice big Mason jar and let it sit for close to 30 days. After straining out the solids, I bring [the vinegar] to a boil and at that point, I add sugar. That way, I control how sweet [the shrub] is: I can add a little sugar, dissolve it and then taste it to see if I like it. If I have to add more sugar, I’m always very reserved in the amount I put in. You can add secondary ingredients when you’re boiling [the vinegar]: I’ll add some thyme, some rosemary; I can put basil in there or cinnamon and allspice. And those are secondary flavors that come through at the finish.
One for the Road serves 1
Apple-Cranberry-Ginger Juice
/ preparation - apple-cranberry-ginger juice / Add all ingredients to a juicer and juice. Strain out excess pulp and set aside until ready to use.
Orange Shrub
/ preparation - orange shrub / Place orange slices in a small Mason jar; add vinegars. Add cinnamon stick, vanilla bean and allspice. Close jar and allow flavors to infuse vinegar, 2 to 4 weeks. Once desired flavor is achieved, strain out solids and add vinegar to a saucepan; place over medium high
1 apple, small dice 8 cranberries ½ inch ginger root, peeled 1 4 4 1 ¼ 3 1
cup orange slices oz distilled white vinegar oz apple cider vinegar cinnamon stick vanilla bean allspice berries cup cane sugar
heat and bring to a light boil. Add ½ cup sugar and stir until it has dissolved; check flavor. If it’s sweet enough, you’re finished. If it’s not sweet enough, add the rest of the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Let cool and store at room temperature until ready to use. / preparation - one for the road / Pour juice into glass over ice. Add shrub and top with sparkling water or tonic. Garnish with twist of apple peel and enjoy.
One for the Road to 5 4 ½ 1
oz apple-cranberry-ginger juice (recipe follows) oz orange shrub (recipe follows) sparkling water or tonic twist apple peel, for garnish
photography by keith borgmeyer
/ j a nu a ry 2 02 0
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Back Burner the
this month, we asked industry pros:
What’s your favorite place to enjoy nonalcoholic cocktails?
Kyle Harlan
beverage director
Mission Taco Joint st. louis
PHOTO BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY
“I think the NA options at Yellowbelly and Retreat Gastropub rival some of the best cocktails available anywhere. The Pandan Punch is worth tangling with, and the Piña Co-Nada... YHEW! (Insert your best Letterkenny impression.) I know there are others doing cool things, but that’s what I’m fanboying over right now.”
Lauren "Lulu" Loomis co-owner
Joleen Senter Durham co-founder and co-owner
Joe Shirley owner
Shelly La Fata owner
Charlie Martin bartender
Lulu’s Local Eatery
Piney River Brewing Co.
Überdine
Pasta La Fata
Olive + Oak
St. Louis
Bucyrus, Missouri
kansas city
Columbia, Missouri
St. Louis
“My favorite place to grab a
“My son, Andy – now 14 years old
“My go-to for creative
“I am living for a strong shrub and
“Vicia and Bulrush both do great
nonalcoholic cocktail is Planter’s
– frequents establishments with
nonalcoholic cocktails is Berto
club. My favorite places to enjoy
nonalcoholic programs. Retreat
House in Lafayette Square. It
me that will mix up some grain-free
[Santoro] at Farina. He always
them are Beet Box, Broadway
Gastropub and Yellowbelly have
always has an impressive variety
libations for him, which he enjoys
delivers something that is
Brewery and Barred Owl Butcher
rotating shrub programs, as well
of unique options and fresh
immensely and usually insists
balanced and not the standard
& Table. Throughout the year,
as Olive + Oak – right now, we are
ingredients, [and] the staff is so
that I also try. A couple places in
acidic fruit juice concoction.”
these pros preserve Missouri's
running a cranberry-sage shrub
knowledgeable and friendly. I
Missouri that do this are Just a
best produce to offer a wide
as well as a lime cordial with
don’t like anything too sweet, and
Taste in St. James and The Backlot
menu of bright, tangy and juicy
nutmeg and habanero. Also, duh!
every time I order something,
at Alamo Drafthouse Cinema in
shrubs – the perfect pairing for
I forgot to mention my favorite,
they’re able to deliver something
Springfield. I think it will be fun to
a bubbly club soda!”
Dave [Greteman] at Elmwood.
herbaceous and earthy, which is
see what flavors Andy enjoys in a
His drinks are always at the top
my absolute favorite.”
few years when his 'mocktails' can
of my list.”
be cocktails.” 74
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