Inspired Local Food Culture
/
MIDWEST
JANUARY 2021
the up-and-comers paving the way to a tasty 2021.
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6 New Routines special section
BY AUBREY BYRON
for a better 2021
Every year, many of us set goals and resolutions for the new year. Feelings of optimism, ambition and, ultimately, self-reflection arise. The new year becomes a rare opportunity to change course. But nearly as many become discouraged soon after setting their lofty aspirations. So how do you create sustainable changes you can stick to? The answer is to focus on routines and set goals which revolve around our daily habits, whether it’s exercise, eating healthy or saving money. These are the places to start. And most importantly – give yourself a break. Try not to become frustrated or give up if you fail to meet a goal. Tomorrow is a new day and a great opportunity to try again. 1
GETTING ENOUGH SLEEP
3
MAKING AN EXERCISE PLAN
during social distancing. Taking a socially
Getting at least seven hours of sleep is one
Plenty of people set the goal of exercising
distanced walk outside with a friend, calling
of the most important habits for good health.
more and for good reason – there are
an out-of-town family member on the phone
Several chronic diseases can be traced to
many benefits other than just trying to
or maybe even playing a group game online
lack of sleep, including Type 2 Diabetes, heart
lose weight. Getting regular exercise can
like Among Us can all contribute to helping
disease and depression, according to the
help improve your quality of sleep, reduce
your mental and emotional well-being.
Center for Disease Control and Prevention
stress and make you feel healthy and strong.
(CDC). Reducing screen time is one way to
However, finding an exercise routine can be
help ensure you get enough sleep. Some
difficult especially if you are stuck at home.
phones include sleep schedules that help
Try making a plan to exercise together while
reduce the urge to check notifications.
apart. Check to see if your local gym or
Avoiding alcohol and large meals before bed
yoga studio has classes available to stream.
can also help.
You can also video chat with friends as you participate in popular, free at-home video
2
MEAL PLANNING
Whether you hope to eat healthier, lose
routines like those from Fitness Blender, Yoga with Adriene or Dance Church.
weight or just save money, planning your meals for the week can help you achieve
4
REDUCING STRESS
5
GETTING ORGANIZED
One of the best ways to stick to any routine is to stay organized. Planners, phone alerts and calendars can each help with this. A bullet journal or habit tracker can also help you stay on task. Whether keeping track of days you exercised or how much water you drink, this is a great way to keep yourself accountable (and maybe try out some new calligraphy or illustration art to boot!).
several of the resolutions on your list. And
2020 was a ubiquitously difficult year, and
no, you don’t have to eat the same thing all
unfortunately, going into 2021, the global
week! Having a plan for your meals helps with
pandemic is not yet behind us. Finding ways
everything from splurging at the grocery
to manage the stress from the public health
perfected in 2020, but this is a great time to
store, overeating snack foods or ordering
and economic consequences of COVID is
remember to stay diligent! Wash your hands
last-minute fast food. The key to meal
crucial. Making time to unwind, caring for
thoroughly after every bathroom use, every
planning is finding simple, go-to recipes you
yourself by getting plenty of sleep, nutrients
time you touch something outside your home
actually enjoy. If you’re in need of inspiration,
and exercise are more important than ever, as
and regularly throughout the day to keep
browse Feast’s Quick Fix section.
are finding new ways to connect with people
yourself and others safe.
4
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6
WASHING YOUR HANDS
Hopefully your hand-washing routine was
special section
/ j a nu a ry 2 02 1
5
SAVE the DATE
Inspired Local Food Culture /
january
midwest
2021
Volume 11 / Issue 1 Publisher
Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
EDITORIAL
sales
Editor in chief
general manager
Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor
Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838
Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com
Special projects coordinator
assistant editor
Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com
Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor
FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville
Jenny Vergara
production partner: Tybee Studios
St. Louis Contributing Editor
Mabel Suen
Contact Us
fact checker
Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com
Karen Parkman Proofreader
Alecia Humphreys
Distribution
Contributing Writers
Jordan Baranowski, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Kala Elkinton, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Alecia Humphreys, Liz Miller, Claire Porter, JC Sandt, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Shannon Weber
To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.
ART
JANUARY 28, 2021 TASTING: NORTON Join Missouri winemakers as they discuss the Norton grape with Feast publisher Cat Neville. Each ticket includes exclusive access to the virtual tasting and discussion PLUS multiple bottles of wine and local goodies- delivered straight to your door!
feastmagazine.com/wine 6
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Art Director
Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers
Brandon Alms, Jordan Bauer, Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Paige McDonald, Ben Nickelson, Spencer Pernikoff, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Rolf Ringwald, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Kim Wade, Cheryl Waller, Ethan Weston, Brad Zweerink
Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.
on the cover James Chang, owner of J.Chang Kitchen and general manager of Waldo Thai Place in Kansas City, by Pilsen Photo Co-op table of contents Rachel Fair, owner of Whipped Cream & Other Delights in Springfield, Missouri, by Brad Zweerink
/ 11 / the dish
rising stars
These emerging talents are giving us hope for a brighter – and more delicious – future.
38
kansas city
42
columbia
44
st. louis
48
springfield
Chickpea tacos
/ 12 / dine & drink Prehistoric Brewing Co., Clay & Fire, The Lucky Accomplice
/ 13 / one on one
Gerald Nathan Sr. of South Florida Style Chicken & Ribs
/ 14 / one ingredient 3 ways Grapefruit
/ 16 / the mix The Isle of Gold
/ 18 / shop here The Tea Studio by Kilian
/ 19 / midwest made Coffee beans
/ 20 / mystery shopper Pikliz
/ 22 / healthy appetite Smashed turnip & beet salad
/ 23 / one on one
Bryan Arri of Fern Bar
/ 24 / sugar rush
Greek yogurt panna cotta with candied kumquats & citrus
/ 27 / one on one
Jon and Alyssa Todd of Deadfox
/ 28 / quick fix
Broccoli stir-fry
/ 29 / culinary library Angel Beason of Kingdom Coffee
/ 30 / crash course Tea
/ j a nu a ry 2 02 1
7
Letter
from the
Publisher
I
t’s finally here. 2021. We’ve turned the page on 2020, and I think it’s fair to say that we’re all looking forward to a brighter year ahead – one that is sure to be made more enjoyable thanks to the work of the people in this issue.
Jheron Nunnelly is trucking Mr. Murphy’s Stuffed Potatoes from Columbia to Fulton to Hallsville, dishing up steaming spuds and paving the way to a brick-and-mortar restaurant and brewery (p. 43).
Take India Pernell and Arvelisha Woods. This duo is joyfully cooking up vegan comfort food in Kansas City, making crowd-pleasing plant-based versions of the dishes they loved growing up and sharing them with an ever-growing customer base. Get to know these sisters on page 39. In St. Louis, Kurt Bellon is crafting Japanese sandos that are served on pillowy traditional milk bread (p. 45). In Springfield, Molly McCleary’s Maypop Flower Farm is brightening up dishes both savory and sweet with an array of edible blooms (p. 48). And in mid-Missouri, 8
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 1
Catherine Neville
publisher@feastmagazine.com
PHOTOGR APHY BY captiva studios
Each of the Rising Stars featured in Our list of Rising Stars is an annual this issue brings something unique ode to culinarians who are finding to our culinary scene. The concepts their path in the industry, building are personal and often focused businesses and creating a name for on positively impacting the larger themselves – people who we think will community in some way, whether be the next batch of change-makers by combating food insecurity or I'm back in the kitchen this month, shooting a new series of cooking videos. Look for the all-new recipes on feastmagazine.com soon! in food and drink. building a more equitable supply chain. I think it’s emblematic of Reading through this issue, I was inspired by the breadth of talent and inspiration where things stand right now, when a growing number of people are finding that can be found throughout our region and the creative ways that many of these ways to create food-and-drink businesses that have a positive impact on our up-and-comers have navigated the challenges of the past year. There’s a theme communities, helping others rise while they carve their own path in the culinary of adaptation and a thread of start-up spunk woven throughout these stories – a world. After such a challenging year, it’s something we can all applaud. combination of flexibility and passion that fuels people who are driven to create. Until next time,
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9
PROMOTION
E AT GOOD OO D F E EL EL GR E AT
PROMOTION
TAKE CHARGE OF YOUR HEALTH ONE STEP AT A TIME. As we enter into January, we look to new beginnings and a fresh start for the upcoming year. I haven’t always been consistent with setting resolutions, but look at this time as a good opportunity to reevaluate what’s important and think about areas of my life that need a little improvement. It changes from year to year, but finding ways to better my overall health & well-being usually top the list. If getting healthy and being active are on your to-do list for 2021, Schnucks can be your helpful guide to starting something new or keeping you on track towards your wellness goals. Healthy eating doesn’t have to be an all or nothing approach. It begins with one good choice, which typically leads to another. I’m constantly making small swaps in meals to give them a nutrition boost, just like I have done in this month’s recipe. Replacing a regular potato with a more nutrient dense sweet potato is one small step you can take on your healthy eating journey. It may not seem like much but getting started is half the battle. Topping it with lean protein, fruits and vegetables is an added bonus. For more recipe inspiration, check out the latest issue of Simply Schnucks magazine with over 30 healthy meal ideas and wellness tips. Beyond healthy eating, we need regular exercise to be part of our healthy habits. Since the cold winter months can be a hard time to get active, we’ve created a Community Step Challenge to give you a jump start. To register and learn more about the Schnucks Step Challenge, text “steps” to 27126. Get your family and friends to sign up for a little friendly competition and to keep you accountable all winter long. For added motivation, Schnucks Rewards members will have the chance to receive exclusive offers along the way just for participating! So no matter if you are beginning your journey or looking for something new, start by taking the first step—you can do it!
PICADILLO STUFFED SWEET POTATO SERVES 4 4 large sweet potatoes
2 cups frozen chopped spinach, thawed
½ red onion, chopped
1 jalapeño, thinly sliced
1 carrot, shredded
15 oz can no-salt-added diced tomatoes
1 tsp garlic powder
1 cup Full Circle low-sodium chicken broth
1 Tbsp chili powder
¼ cup sliced green olives
½ tsp cinnamon
½ cup pitted Medjool dates, finely chopped
1 lb lean ground turkey
¼ cup Schnucks plain Greek yogurt Fresh cilantro
PREPARATION Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Pierce potatoes all over with a fork and place on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet; bake until tender, about 50 minutes. While potatoes bake, warm a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and carrot and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in garlic SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN
powder, chili powder and cinnamon and cook 1 more minute. Next, add ground turkey and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in spinach, jalapeno, tomato, chicken broth, green olives and dates. Simmer for 5-7 minutes until mixture thickens. Remove potatoes from the oven. Slice open and mash insides with a fork. Divide picadillo mixture among potatoes and top with Greek yogurt and cilantro.
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
chickpea tacos Justin Clark first became interested in healthy food options while working as the catering chef of Truman Medical Centers in Kansas City. In 2016, he opened Urban Cafe, where he serves dishes for all diets. “It’s just American food,” he says, “but it’s American food that I created based on my experience building flavors.” Diners have a wide selection to choose from – think an omelet stuffed with lump blue crab meat and cognac Boursin cheese, crispy pork belly on brioche and a porterhouse pork chop paired with sweet potato hash. For something vegan, Clark suggests the chickpea tacos made with ground garbanzo beans that mimic the texture of ground meat. “You know how some people use ground turkey for their tacos – it’s almost like that because it’s so light,” he says. “It has all the characteristics of a taco, but it’s just not as greasy.” –Rachel Huffman
Recipe courtesy of Justin Clark, owner, Urban Cafe Photography by anna petrow
yields 2 tacos Simple Salsa 3 whole Roma tomatoes 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 small onion, quartered 1 jalapeño 1½ Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp salt 3 Tbsp fresh lime juice ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Chickpea Tacos 1 cup dried garbanzo beans 1 Tbsp granulated garlic 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp salt ½ cup roughly chopped cauliflower florets 2 corn tortillas 1 tomato, diced shaved romaine hearts or shredded cabbage simple salsa (recipe follows) cilantro / preparation – simple salsa / Preheat broiler. On a baking sheet, place tomatoes, garlic, onion and jalapeño; drizzle with olive oil. Checking often, broil until skins of vegetables are charred, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and allow vegetables to cool slightly. Once cool enough to handle, remove and discard tomato cores, garlic skins and jalapeño stem. Coarsely chop vegetables in a food processor or with a knife; transfer to a medium bowl and mix in remaining ingredients. Set aside. / preparation – chickpea tacos / Fill a saucepan with water; bring water to a boil. Add garbanzo beans, garlic, cumin, paprika and salt; cook until garbanzo beans are fork-tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and allow garbanzo beans to dry completely. Once dry, transfer to a food processor; process until ground. In a medium bowl, combine ground garbanzo beans and raw cauliflower. In a skillet over medium heat, toast tortillas until soft. Transfer tortillas to a plate and build tacos with garbanzo-cauliflower mixture, tomato, romaine hearts or cabbage, salsa and cilantro as desired. Enjoy.
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▼ SPRINGFIELD, MO
Prehistoric Brewing Co. Written by Claire Porter / photography by brandon alms
At Prehistoric Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri, more than a dozen prehistoric-inspired beers pour out of taps above the glowing lava flow that covers the bar. Opened by homebrewers Keith Davis and Charley Norton last June, it’s creating buzz with brews such as Chocolate Mammoth Milk (a sweet and smooth chocolate milk stout) and Trapped in Time (a sweet take on an amber ale with notes of honey and bread). You can also bring the Jurassic era home with to-go cans and growlers. 1816 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, prehistoricbrewingcompany.com
▲ kansas city
Clay & Fire Written by pete dulin photography by anna petrow
Clay & Fire has reignited the hearth in the Westside spot that formerly housed Lill’s on 17th, Novel and then Fox and Pearl’s pop-up location. To develop recipes for the restaurant, which specializes in Turkish fare
▶ ST. LOUIS
The Lucky Accomplice Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by spencer pernikoff
The highly anticipated sister restaurant to SHIFT opened in St. Louis’ Fox Park neighborhood last September, and it lives up to the hype. A more casual concept from chef-owner Logan Ely, The Lucky Accomplice offers a balanced menu of elegantly plated entrées and shared plates packed with bold flavors. Try the chicken cooked in yogurt served with cauliflower and fermented potato or the roasted pork collar paired with purple grits and mushrooms. For something lighter, split the tater tot, which Ely revamps with cured salmon, smoked trout roe, cream cheese and everything seasoning, or order the beets with red beet béarnaise, black trumpets and tarragon. Thirsty? Cocktails include a pineapple-cider slushie with amaretto and a draft winter Paloma. 2501 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, theluckyaccomplice.com
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along with dishes from Iran, Lebanon, Armenia and other surrounding countries, chef Brent Gunnels collaborates with restaurateur Orcan Yigit (who is still based in Turkey for the time being) via Skype. To start, try the classic mezze with any combination of lamb köfte, olives, Feta, yogurt, labneh and grilled bread. Then dig into the menemen (a traditional Turkish egg scramble with tomato,
onion, green pepper, cumin and Aleppo pepper) or the rotisserie chicken paired with roasted vegetables, houseseasoned pickles and fennel spread. Stopping by for breakfast? Savannah Bennett’s bar program includes Turkish coffee to savor with pastries from Blackhole Bakery and SunFlour Bakery. 815 W. 17th St., Kansas City, Missouri, clayandfirekc.com
ONE ON ONE
ONE on
/
columbia, mo
with Gerald Nathan Sr. / chef-owner, South Florida Style Chicken & Ribs What inspired you to open South Florida Style Chicken & Ribs? I started [cooking and
gerald nathan sr.’s
Signature Dishes
selling my food when we lived] in Charlotte, North Carolina, and I did it to raise money for [the Cabarrus County Youth Sports Program], an organization I ran for underprivileged kids, to cover their fees to play football. Once I did that, I found out I was pretty good at it, so we turned it into a food truck [when we settled in Columbia]. How do you define your style of cooking? Soothing southern food – it’s pretty much food for the soul. We not only nourish your body, but we feed your soul as well. We prepare our items so that people can get a good feeling about
chicken and waffles
Try different variations of this Southern staple with blueberries, strawberries or pineapple at South Florida Style Chicken & Ribs.
themselves after eating our meals. The menu items that we have are pretty much what we’ve been doing all our lives – things that I made for [my kids] when they were smaller. I really just do what I’m good at. What does your restaurant bring to the Columbia dining scene? We have [a company policy]: Try it before you buy it. We [even] wear it on our T-shirts. We try to please each and every one of our customers that comes through
fried fish
the door, [and] we don’t want a
Lightly battered and fried, the swai – a white-fleshed fish with neutral flavor – is then seasoned with Nathan’s specialty seasoning. Try it with a side of collard greens or coleslaw or served on a bun.
customer to come in and purchase something they don’t want. I tell everybody, “We’ll find something that you like.” So, we allow our customers to taste everything before they buy it so we can make sure that happens. Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by ethan weston
How important is it for you to cook with your family? It means a lot
After his eldest son was recruited by the Missouri Tigers football program, Florida native Gerald Nathan Sr. and his whole family moved to Columbia, where they opened South Florida Style Chicken & Ribs as a food truck in 2018. The name and the food are an homage to his roots, and Nathan, with his family by his side, works hard to craft an experience that is brimming with both flavor and heart. His secret spice blend – coined South Florida-style seasoning – defines almost every item on the menu, from fried wings to grilled chicken legs to rib sandwiches. When Nathan expanded his concept into a brick-and-mortar restaurant last month, his menu followed suit, offering up delicious, home-cooked options for every meal of the day.
because I can pass it on. I can do certain things around them that I would be worried about doing around other people, because once a person gets ahold of your magic, they tend to take it and want to run with it. So it’s a lot easier for me to do it with my family, whom I’m actually going to share it with. 600 Business Loop 70 W., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/704chickenandribs
grilled rack of lamb
Most barbecue joints have ribs on the menu, but they rarely have a rack of lamb that’s grilled to perfection like this. / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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Serves 1
Grapefruit-Cardamom Gin Fizz Cardamom-Infused Syrup 8 oz simple syrup 1 Tbsp water ¼ cup whole cardamom
Let’s start the year with something refreshing. Fresh grapefruit juice gives this
Grapefruit-Cardamom Gin Fizz 2 oz gin 1 oz fresh grapefruit juice 1 oz cardamom-infused syrup (recipe follows) 1 large egg white 1 oz soda water
Gin Fizz an edge, and the
/ preparation – cardamom-infused syrup /
In a small saucepan over low heat, whisk together simple syrup and water; add whole cardamom. Bring mixture to a boil and then remove from heat; allow to cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container and place in refrigerator, 2 days. After the allotted time, remove cardamom. Keep syrup in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – grapefruit-cardamom gin fizz /
Add gin, grapefruit juice, syrup and egg white to a shaker tin; shake vigorously. Add ice; shake again. Strain mixture into a glass; top with soda water.
homemade cardamom-infused syrup adds warmth to the drink to combat the cold.
Serves 4
Grapefruit & Trout Ceviche 3 trout fillets 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 avocado, cut into small chunks 1 jalapeño, seeds removed and finely chopped 1 Tbsp freshly chopped cilantro 3 limes, juiced 1 grapefruit, juiced 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp red pepper flakes salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
/ preparation / Thoroughly rinse trout
and then pat dry; cut into ½-inch squares. Transfer trout to a medium bowl; add red onion, avocado, jalapeño and cilantro. In a small bowl, whisk together juices, paprika, garlic powder and red pepper flakes. Pour mixture over trout; gently fold. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and transfer to refrigerator; chill, approximately 2 hours, folding again after 1 hour. Remove from refrigerator and season with salt and pepper to taste. Eat with a spoon or tortilla chips.
serves 4 to 6 Ceviche is incredibly easy, it creates virtually no mess and it doesn’t make your house smell like fish – what more could you
Growing up, I thought that the only reason grapefruit existed was to be cut in half and sprinkled with sugar for breakfast. Older and wiser, I now know how
ask for in a meal? The grapefruit and trout add a spin to the classic dish, and I like to scoop everything up with chips.
versatile it is. Grapefruit is juicy, tart and tangy with an underlying sweetness. Swap it in for other citrus fruits to elevate the flavor profile of myriad dishes. story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com
Grapefruit-Olive Oil Cake Grapefruit-Olive Oil Cake 3 cups cake flour 1½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp nutmeg 4 eggs 1½ cups olive oil 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup dark brown sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 8 oz “crushed” grapefruit (processed in food processor) ½ cup walnuts, processed into small pieces, for garnish Glaze 1 cup dark brown sugar ½ cup heavy cream 3 Tbsp butter
This cake can be eaten for
/ preparation – grapefruit-olive
breakfast alongside coffee or
oil cake / Preheat oven to 350°F.
for dessert alongside tea. The olive oil lends richness to each forkful while the grapefruit adds tang and a subtle bite.
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baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg; set aside. In a medium bowl, add eggs, olive oil, sugars and vanilla extract; whisk together until well blended. Stir in processed grapefruit. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients; mix to incorporate. Pour cake batter into prepared pan; bake until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove from oven and allow cake to cool in pan on a wire rack, 1 to 2 hours. Meanwhile, make glaze (recipe follows). Once cake has cooled, run a knife along the edge of the pan, turn over and slide cake out. Pour glaze on top; spread over the entire surface and let some drip down the sides. Sprinkle with walnuts and serve. / preparation – glaze / In a saucepan over
medium high heat, add all ingredients; whisk constantly until sugar has dissolved. Line a 9-inch springform pan with Lower heat to medium; continue to cook, parchment paper; lightly grease pan whisking often, 5 minutes. Remove from and then dust with regular flour. In a heat; set aside and allow to thicken at room large bowl, combine cake flour, temperature.
Thank you to our wonderful employees! We look forward to serving our customers in 2021.
FRESH INGREDIENTS. AUTHENTIC RECIPES. Hours:
5200 Oakland Ave., St. Louis 314-65-BLOOM www.thebloom.cafe
monday-friday: 10:30am - 8:00pm saturday: 11:30am - 7:00pm
11982 dorsett rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com
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This blended scotch cocktail – which I developed at The Golden Girl Rum Club in Springfield, Missouri – has aromas and textures reminiscent of eggnog but remains a welcome departure from the norm. Pairing unexpected ingredients to create a rich, complex concoction, The Isle of Gold will chase the winter chill away. The base is a coconut golden milk spiced with ginger, honey, turmeric and cinnamon, and finishing touches include absinthe and nutmeg. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl waller
The Isle of Gold Look for Coco Lopez for this recipe.
Serves 1 Coconut Golden Milk (Yields approximately 30 oz) 1 15-oz can cream of coconut 1 13.5-oz can unsweetened coconut milk 1 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 1 Tbsp honey 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 pinch salt The Isle of Gold 2 oz coconut golden milk (recipe follows) 2 oz blended scotch 1 tsp absinthe freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish / preparation – coconut golden milk / Add all ingredients to a saucepan and set over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a simmer; simmer, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely. Once cooled, strain out ginger. Store liquid in an airtight container in refrigerator until ready to use. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before using to return mixture to room temperature. / preparation – the isle of gold / Add coconut golden milk, blended scotch and absinthe to a shaker tin with ice; shake until incorporated, diluted and cold. Strain over a large ice cube in a rocks glass; top with nutmeg. Drink and repeat.
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Food, Drink, History
celebrating 103 delicious years
599 St. Denis Street, Old Town Florissant
HendelsRestaurant.com • 314-837-2304
Thank you for your continued support. FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! Do your body and taste buds a favor and order fresh oysters • Low in fat • High in protein • Rich in minerals and vitamins
dessert first
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 2021
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Sponsors Centene Charitable Foundation • Edward Jones • A-Mrazek Moving Systems, Inc. • Boeing • BKD, LLP • Husch Blackwell • Ashdon Farms • Bayer • Brown Smith Wallace LLP • CBIZ • Commerce Bank • Cord Moving and Storage • Emerson Hermetic Motor • Little Brownie Bakers • Missouri Baptist Medical Center • Thuy Vi Quach-Braig • FEAST • Stone Hill Winery
314-993-4844 8660 Olive in U City bobsseafoodstl.com
Farm to Table restaurant, using fresh, locally sourced ingredients!
www.clevelandheath.com • 618-307-4830 106 North Main Street - Edwardsville, IL 62025 / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
◀ ST. LOUIS
The Tea Studio by Kilian Written by Mabel Suen / photography by paige mcdonald
Susie Kilian, owner of The Tea Studio by Kilian in St. Louis, strives to give customers a better understanding of tea and its nuances with a vast variety of loose-leaf teas, tea accessories, tastings and classes. A certified tea specialist and certified tea sommelier, Kilian brings a decade’s worth of knowledge and experience to the Gravois Park store. From the selection of loose-leaf teas that she curates herself, Kilian recommends the Earl Grey – a relaxing blend of organic black teas, hand-picked in Sri Lanka and mixed with natural bergamot oil, which possesses both uplifting and calming qualities. Another option is the Taitung Oolong from Taiwan with notes of sweet stone fruit and roasted nuts, while the Hibiscus Smash made with hibiscus flowers, cherry, lemongrass, licorice root, rose hip and spearmint is a wonderful caffeine-free herbal tea. 2755 Chippewa St., St. Louis, Missouri, theteastudiobykilian.com
Tea Accessories
These airtight tea tins keep tea leaves stored safely
A must-have for tea novices and aficionados
away from sunlight, which can ruin even the best tea.
alike, Stump porcelain teapots are affordable
Air exposure also negatively affects loose-leaf tea,
and come in a variety of colors. The addition of
so try not to open the containers more than needed.
removable infuser baskets helps prevent your tea from getting too bitter.
from
The Tea Studio A gaiwan – a small Chinese lidded bowl set on top of a saucer – is the preferred method for brewing green and white teas, as the gaiwan’s porcelain absorbs the heat from the water and doesn’t damage the tea.
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MIDWEST MADE
cool beans Before beginning the daily grind, The Ground-aBout in Jackson, Missouri, encourages everyone to drink a coffee. Owned and operated by Bob Schooley, the company acquired Parengo Coffee in 2018 in order to offer in-house roasted beans. The beans from Costa Rica have a wellbalanced, nutty base with flavors of cranberry, black tea and lemon, and the Sumatra surprises with a fruity aroma and flavors of sweet orange juice, bell pepper and agave. Explore all this local shop has to offer in person or online at thegroundabout.com.
Boasting a history as rich as its coffee, Mokaska Coffee Co. in St. Joseph, Missouri, originally opened in 1884. The company closed during the Great Depression, but it’s since reopened with the same mission: to select highgrade, single-origin coffee beans and roast them on a made-to-order basis so that each customer receives only the freshest product. Try The Reanimator – a bold Italianstyle espresso blend with milk chocolate sweetness, citruslike brightness and a hazelnut finish – or the Organic Mexican Chiapas – a medium-bodied coffee with notes of nougat, date and toasted coconut and a classic nutty finish. These and more are available at Mokaska’s café as well as online at mokaska.com.
You can get a cup of coffee almost anywhere these days, but for whole beans that will really ignite your morning, we suggest looking further off the beaten path. These Missouri-based coffee roasters offer carefully roasted beans so that you can enjoy consistent and conscious coffee at home every day – all day, if you want. Written by Alecia Humphreys / photography by matt seidel
At KeenBean Coffee Roasters in Mount Vernon, Missouri, owners Darrell and Tracy Bradshaw roast coffee beans from Indonesia, Africa and the Americas using a Sivetz fluidized-bed air roaster. They also offer delicious blends, including French Roast, Espresso Metro and KeenBean KoldBrew. Each bag is handstamped and handled with care, whether you buy it in the shop or online at keenbeancoffee.com.
Family-owned Reconstruction Coffee Roasters, located in Villa Ridge, Missouri, roasts smallbatch coffees that are sourced by Cafe Imports, an importer of specialty green coffees with a focus on sustainability and fair wages. There are usually four to six blends and single-origin coffees in Reconstruction’s roast rotation. Its flagship blend, Proclamation, stands out with a bright and nutty flavor profile featuring hints of lemon, grapefruit, pecan and molasses that makes it a perfect everyday coffee. Stock up at reconstructioncoffee.com.
Copper Canyon Coffee Roasters believes in its beans, from where they’re sourced to how they’re roasted to when they’re roasted. Sourced from more than 10 places around the world, the beans are roasted fresh daily in small batches to preserve their unique characteristics and create the finest cups of coffee for customers. Pick up bags at the storefront in Battlefield, Missouri, or order them online at coppercanyoncoffeeroasters.com.
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Not familiar with Haiti’s all-purpose condiment? This is your fair warning – you’re going to want to throw it on everything.
What Is It? Pikliz is a beautiful thing. An unapologetically spicy-sweet condiment, it’s present at every Haitian table for almost every meal, where its crunchy astringency cuts through heavy meat dishes and fried foods common in the country’s cuisine. Although it looks and sounds like it’s “pickled,” it’s not the heated sort; it’s simply a marinated vinegar slaw in a jar that you chill for a couple days and then enjoy. Word to the wise: Pikliz packs too powerful a punch to eat on its own as a side. It works its magic best when scooped up with bites of everything else on your plate. What Do I Do With It? It’s hard to resist the addictive crunch-pop of pikliz. Chances are, you’ll want to use it on everything – and I wholeheartedly encourage that. Eat it with any meat, poultry or fish; mix it with rice or beans; and drizzle the liquid into soups, stews and chili. Elevate your eggs with it, or add a little to your next sandwich or wrap for some extra-special zing. Although fresh pikliz can be found in Haitian communities stateside – in Brooklyn or southern Florida, for example – it’s nearly impossible to find in the Midwest. If you want to experience it (and take it from me, you do), you’ll need to make your own – a simple task if ever there was one. Traditional Haitian pikliz often contains sour orange juice, and January is a great time to look for sour oranges at the nearest international grocery store. If you can’t find them, though, lime juice is a respectable and oft-used substitute. Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg
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Don’t shovel this in like slaw, lest your mouth catch on fire. This is a condiment, meant to act like one rather than fly solo. I think pikliz works best when the veg is cut paper-thin, so if you have a mandoline, use it for the cabbage, onion and bell pepper.
Pikliz yields 32 ounces 2 1½ 1 1 3 to 4 6 2½ ¹⁄₃ 2
cups shredded green cabbage, thick core removed cups thinly sliced sweet yellow onion cup thinly sliced red bell pepper cup thin matchstick carrots scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed, seeded and quartered whole cloves cups distilled white vinegar cup lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes) tsp kosher salt
/ preparation / In a large bowl, add cabbage, onion, bell pepper, carrots, scotch bonnet or habanero peppers and cloves. In a medium bowl, whisk together vinegar, lime juice and salt; pour over vegetables and toss with tongs until thoroughly combined. Use tongs to transfer vegetables to a 32-oz widemouthed glass canning jar, packing them in as you go. Pour vinegar mixture over top to cover. Seal tightly and allow to marinate in refrigerator, 48 hours. / to serve / Serve alongside meat, poultry, fish or vegetables as you would a relish or chutney.
PA I R IT! pair with: Blonde Ale
The acidity of the low-calorie, lightly sweet Easy Sport
from Boulevard Brewing Co. in Kansas City rivals that of the bright and fiery pikliz. Both the tangerine peel in the beer and the lime juice in the slaw bring out the fruitiness of the peppers while simultaneously taming their heat. The ale’s additional electrolytes and dry finish pit nicely against the tart, crunchy vegetables. –JC Sandt boulevard.com
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
An homage to pai huang gua (smashed cucumbers), this dish works as a side, but it’s also substantial enough to fly solo. Since winter is not peak season for cucumbers, I decided to substitute turnips and beets in the recipe. The salad gets its flavor from Sichuan chile crisp, a spicy infused oil, which is widely available at local Asian markets, and if you can find Hakurei turnips (Japanese salad turnips), I highly recommend using them here. Their delicate flavor and crisp texture resemble a mild radish, and they’re delicious raw. Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by kim wade
serves 4 to 6 1 lb beets 1 lb turnips, cleaned, large dice 1 cup pomegranate seeds ¼ cup chopped cilantro 1 Tbsp sesame seeds 1 Tbsp sugar 1½ tsp kosher salt 2 Tbsp black vinegar 1 tsp chile crisp / preparation / Fill a small pot with water; bring water to a boil. Add beets; cook until knife-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove tender beets from water; peel and cut large dice. Place beets and turnips in a zip-close bag; gently smash with a rolling pin. Transfer smashed vegetables to a bowl along with remaining ingredients; toss to combine. Set bowl in refrigerator; chill until cold, approximately 15 minutes. Serve.
pair with: Absinthe Verte
PA I R IT!
Given the earthiness of the root vegetables in this dish, I wanted something bright, complex and effervescent to pair with it. My mind immediately went to Death in the Afternoon, a cocktail made with absinthe and Champagne that Ernest Hemingway claimed to have invented. For this preparation, I recommend Lifted Spirits Absinthe Verte, which boasts both sweet and herbal flavors. Place 1 sugar cube in the bottom of a Champagne flute; add ½ ounce absinthe verte. Top with dry Champagne and garnish with a lemon twist. –Jenn Tosatto liftedspiritskc.com
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ONE ON ONE /
ONE on
KANSAS CITY
with Bryan Arri / owner, Fern Bar
Must-Try
Cocktails at Fern Bar
Written by Jordan Baranowski / photography by ZACH BAUMAN
margarita
Tommy’s Margarita with a twist, the Margarita at Fern Bar features two brands of tequila, Pasote and ElVelo. Arri also uses an agave-gomme syrup that acts as an emulsifier and makes for a beautiful mouthfeel once the cocktail is shaken.
daiquiri
Arri uses a blend of rums, including Probitas (the first blended white rum produced entirely in the Caribbean), in his Daiquiri. “We don’t
Bryan Arri has cut his teeth at some of the best bars in Kansas City, including Manifesto, Rye and The Monarch Bar. Ready to strike out on his own, this year he’s launching a new concept, Fern Bar, with a heightened focus on agave and sugarcane spirits – in other words, mezcal, tequila and rum. The incredible cocktails – think a Daiquiri variation made with high-proof rum, Riesling, Ming River baijiu, a passionfruit-rum shrub and fresh lime juice – will certainly attract attention, but Arri hopes that guests come to Fern Bar for more than a drink. His goal is to foster
want to mess too much with [the traditional] rum-sugar-lime combo,” he says. “People need a classic cocktail done right, and this is how you do a Daiquiri.”
a sense of community and acceptance, limiting the exclusive feel that high-end cocktail bars tend to have. Why have you chosen to focus on agave and sugarcane spirits? Two main reasons: First, those are the two spirits that, to me, make life feel like a party worth being at. They can be used in so many unique ways, and they form the base of some of the best classic cocktails out there. Second, Fern Bar wants to focus on using only brands of spirits that utilize best practices. Communities that harvest agave and sugarcane are often taken advantage of, and we want to showcase brands that are doing things in ethical and sustainable ways.
mentors in my time, including guys like Jonathan “Tex” Bush [of Manifesto, who has since moved to Novel], Andrew Ruth [of Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia, Missouri] and Brock Schulte [of The Monarch Bar], who have taught me how to layer drinks, compose profiles and tear drinks apart to find the elements I’m looking for. The two main keys for me are knowing the general direction I want to take things and knowing all the “rules” of cocktails – that way I can break them in trying to achieve something unique and delicious.
How will Fern Bar stand out in the crowded Kansas City cocktail scene? Our focus is going to be on community and culture, not cocktails. We know that Kansas City residents have tons of options for a good drink – and that’s definitely a component here – but we want to make sure the focus of Fern Bar is always on people first. We want our guests to walk away at the end of the night with some great stories and an urge to come back beyond “because they mixed up a good cocktail.”
What can you tell us about when and where Fern Bar will open? We don’t have a concrete date – finding the perfect space is already quite the task, and the pandemic has made it even more difficult. However, our goal is to have a permanent space soon so we can officially open in summer 2021. In the meantime, we plan on having pop ups as often and as safely as we can in a variety of spots around Kansas City, so follow us on Instagram to keep [updated] about where we’ll be mixing drinks.
How do you approach R&D at Fern Bar? I’ve had some amazing
instagram.com/fernbarkc
grass is greener
In this signature cocktail, Arri combines Santo Cuviso Bacanora and green tea-infused Revel Avila Blanco with a syrup of watermelon, Thai basil and serrano pepper. He also uses a special acid blend in place of lime. “This drink is sweet and refreshing, with some garden earthiness and a hint of smoke,” he says. / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
serves 4 Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta ¾ tsp unflavored powdered gelatin 1 Tbsp cold water 1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup sugar ¼ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 1 cup whole milk plain Greek yogurt Candied Kumquats 1 cup (6 oz) kumquats 5 cups water, divided 1 cup sugar Citrus Supremes (Recipe on p. 25) 1 Cara Cara orange or blood orange 1 pomelo or pink grapefruit / preparation – greek yogurt panna cotta / In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over water; let sit until softened, approximately 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine heavy cream, sugar and vanilla bean seeds in a saucepan; set over medium heat. Bring mixture to a boil and then remove from heat; whisk in Greek yogurt. Add gelatin; whisk until melted and thoroughly incorporated. Evenly divide mixture between four ramekins or small dessert glasses; refrigerate until set, approximately 2 hours. / preparation – candied kumquats / Slice kumquats into ¹⁄₈-inchthick rings and remove all seeds. Place kumquat slices in a medium saucepan and cover with 1½ cups water. Once water starts to barely boil, remove from heat and strain. Repeat process two more times.
The quintessential make-ahead dessert,
with Candied Kumquats & Citrus 24
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panna cotta is a custardlike Italian dessert that’s served chilled. Rich and creamy, it pairs well with fresh or cooked fruit from any season – in this case, winter citrus. The bright acidity of the fresh citrus balances the richness of the panna cotta, with an added touch of sweetness from the candied kumquats. When the winter days are dark, this luscious dessert provides a muchneeded dose of sunshine. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com
After blanching kumquats three times, return them to the saucepan; add sugar and ½ cup water. Set over medium-low heat and bring to a simmer; cook until kumquats are tender, approximately 20 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature in the saucepan. Transfer candied kumquats and their syrup to a clean container; cover with a lid and store in refrigerator until ready to use. / to serve / Once set, top each panna cotta with a few candied kumquats, a generous spoonful of assorted citrus supremes and a drizzle of citrus juices. Serve and enjoy.
pair with: Chardonel
PA I R IT!
The Late Harvest Chardonel from Lost Creek Vineyard in Marthasville, Missouri, has everything you need for a harmonious pairing. The grapes were left on the vines until late in the harvest season, intensifying the wine’s sweetness and adding complexity and viscosity to match the weight of this dessert. Decadent notes of apricot and honey complement the vanilla bean and citrus in the recipe, while the wine’s bright finish counters the tangy flavor and creamy texture of the panna cotta. –Hilary Hedges lostcreekvineyardmo.com
how to supreme citrus
Your Delicious Wedding Moment BEGINS WITH
On a cutting board, using a sharp knife, supreme Cara Cara or blood orange by first trimming off each end.
Set a flat side on the cutting board and then slice off the peel and pith in sections, following the round shape of the orange as a guide.
Set it on its side. To cut out each segment, select one segment and cut toward the center along the membrane.
From Elegant to Casual, Buffet to BBQ Slice along the adjacent membrane until the cuts meet and the segment releases. Repeat process until all segments are removed. Repeat process with pomelo or grapefruit.
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PROMOTION PROMOTI ON
SESAME SEEDS Used in oil, flour, paste and more, there are countless ways to incorporate sesame seeds into your everyday diet. Besides being a great source of fiber, magnesium, calcium and B vitamins, these little powerhouses can help wounds heal faster while decreasing inflammation and building up bones. Sesame oil adds nuttiness to roasted vegetables and dressings while sesame paste (tahini) gives hummus its richness and texture.
How Seeds Sow Good Health SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS
“I tell people to think about seeds how you think about eggs,” says Dr. Yikyung Park, a Washington University nutritional epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center. “An egg is a healthy food that contains all the good nutrients, nutrients the egg needs to grow. It’s pretty much the same for seeds,” she says. Considering the size of most seeds, they need to pack an astonishing amount of nutrition into a tiny package — and they do it very well. Seeds are a good source of protein, fiber and healthy fats. “Many people take fish-oil supplements to get their dose of omega-3 fatty acids, but seeds naturally have them in abundance,” Dr. Park says. “It’s been well established that omega-3’s are good for your heart.” Our bodies don’t produce omega-6, an essential nutrient that lowers bad cholesterol and keeps blood sugar in check, so it must come from our diet. Eating more seeds is one of the best ways to do that. Many seeds, such as flax, hemp and chia, can be added to shakes or smoothies, delivering a surge of antioxidants
and fiber without altering the taste. Other seeds, including pumpkin and sunflower, make terrific snacks on their own. But Dr. Park cautions that it’s easy to overeat seeds, and how they’re prepared makes a big difference, too. “Generally speaking , the common way of eating seeds is to toast them, and when you add heat, some of the nutrients — like vitamin C and antioxidants — can be damaged. But this happens in a lot of foods,” she says. “All kinds of seeds have lots of good nutrients, no matter the cooking method you use. One thing people have to be aware of is that we often tend to add salt or sugar Dr. Yikyung Park when roasting. That’s not Washington University nutritional epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center good for your health, so if PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER you’re going to roast them, eat them without added salt or sugar,” she says.
POPPY SEEDS These teeny black or blue seeds bring more than just color and texture to baked goods: They’re also brimming with manganese, an essential nutrient that helps blood clot and bones become stronger. Plus, poppies are stacked with fats that benefit the cardiovascular system. Opium is famously derived from poppy, but before they make their way to the grocery, the seeds are vigorously washed and processed (although very low levels of opiate residue may remain).
in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER
Sesame Seed Cookies with a Healthy Twist YIELDS | 36 cookies
CHIA SEEDS Chia seeds are nutritional superstars — filled with healthy fats, protein, calcium and antioxidants — but their taste is mild, so they’re easily incorporated into smoothies, salads and baked goods. “Chia” is the ancient Mayan word for “strength,” and they’re still considered a top-notch source of energy. Also high in
• ½ cup butter (1 stick), softened
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 2 whole eggs
• 1 Tbsp baking powder
FLAXSEED
• ½ cup unsweetened applesauce
• 4 cups all-purpose flour
The digestive system
• ½ cup honey
• 2½ cups sesame seeds, toasted
is the biggest reason
• ¼ cup 2% milk
• 2 Tbsp water
to eat flaxseed, which
in a single layer and toast until golden brown. Remove from pan and set aside for later. Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Using a mixer with a paddle attachment, beat butter until smooth. Add eggs one at a time until combined. Then add applesauce, honey, milk and vanilla. Mix until combined. Add flour 1 cup at a time until well combined. Add baking powder. On a clean, lightly floured surface, knead the dough for a few minutes until smooth. Divide the dough into 1 tablespoon sized sections. Shape cookies into your desired shape — square or round. Using two small dishes, fill one with water and the other with the toasted sesame seeds. Dip each cookie into the water and then roll in the sesame seeds. Place on a non-stick baking sheet. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.
relieves constipation. Experts say consuming ground (rather than whole) flaxseed is the way to go: Whole flaxseed may pass through the system without being digested at PHOTO PROVIDED BY GETTY IMAGES
Nutrition information (1 cookie): 150 calories, 8g fat, 46mg sodium, 17g carbohydrate, 1g fiber, 4g protein
fiber, they can help you feel fuller for longer.
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improves gut health and
| Preparation | Heat a medium-size pan over low-medium heat. Add sesame seeds
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 1
all, and ground flaxseed is easier to incorporate into cereal, salad dressings and even water.
ONE ON ONE /
ONE on
st. louis
with Jon and Alyssa Todd / co-owners, Deadfox You both still work full-time jobs – Jon as a culinary instructor and Alyssa in the food-anddrink industry. Why launch Deadfox? I missed that end of the industry – cooking for people and sharing food with people – but on my own terms, as opposed to spending 80 hours a week in the kitchen. At the end of the day, our goal is enjoyment, fun and delicious food for us and other people. –Jon Todd Deadfox is all of the things that we enjoy. We read a lot, and we just enjoy learning. –Alyssa Todd
Written by Liz Miller photography by paige mcdonald
Without collaboration and mutual admiration, Jon and Alyssa Todd say their dining, catering and baking company, Deadfox , wouldn’t exist. The couple certainly brings complementary skill sets to the table: Jon is a chef with experience cooking at Taste, J. Devoti Trattoria and Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions while Alyssa left a job in IT to run the beverage and front-of-house operations at Bulrush, where she worked until last month. “I had zero desire to ever really do my own thing until I met Alyssa and started cooking for her,” says Jon. “She said, ‘We should do something together. We could make this into something more sustainable and accessible.’” The result is Deadfox, which offers private catering, sells pantry items such as boiled bagels and cakes through its website and hosts pop ups featuring a range of fare, from ramen to tacos to breakfast staples.
Alyssa, you love researching the history of food and drinks. How is that reflected in your work with Deadfox? I like to dissect why things are the way they are. People are more curious now than ever about what they’re eating, what’s in it [and] where it comes from, and that’s why I ask the “why.” Not just because it interests me, but because I like telling people the answer. When we did our ramen pop up right before COVID-19 started, it was really fun to tell people why we cooked the ramen and steamed buns from scratch and share our experiences from traveling [in Japan]. –A.T. deadfoxstl.com
ntry item s
pa
What inspires your menus and pantry items? A lot of my [inspiration] comes from places I’ve visited. We went to Montreal not too long ago, and we came home and were playing with gravy and foie gras. We had the pleasure of going to Japan, and I came home and cooked with everything from there. A lot of it is experiencing new things and then applying that to what I’m doing and trying to turn it into something of my own. There’s a lot to be said about what kind of food someone is making and why they’re making it. I try to be very cognizant of that, being born and raised in St. Louis and cooking Japanese and Mexican food. Food is one of those things that is meant to be shared; everyone shares food. To me, there’s nothing more American than ketchup, but if you trace back the origin, it’s Indonesian. –J.T.
from
deadfox
Made with kansui powder from Japan, Jon crafts ramen noodles from scratch and then rolls them out. “I don’t know anyone [in St. Louis] who is making them from scratch like this,” he says.
The Todds use heirloom corn from Mexico and nixtamalization to make their corn tortillas. “[They’re] really delicious,” says Alyssa. “I mean, homemade tortillas – you can’t get much better than that.”
The best white bread you’ll ever have, milk bread is pretty much good for everything – sandwiches, such as croque madame, and more – according to Alyssa. “[Jon] has refined his recipe to make it his own,” she adds. / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Broccoli Stir-Fry It’s time to whip out your wok. This stir-fry is quick, healthy and full of flavor – everything we crave after the holidays. Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
In this class, you’ll learn the proper technique for stir-fries and discover different Asian sauces that you can try with this dish.
Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gabrielle DeMichele on Zoom at 5pm on Mon., Jan. 18 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly.
nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school
or call 314.909.1704 28
feastmagazine.com / ja n ua ry 2 0 2 1
serves 4 to 6 2 5 6 3 1 1 ½ ½ 2 2
large heads broccoli, cleaned and separated into equal-sized florets Tbsp grapeseed oil large cloves garlic, sliced stalks Swiss chard, cleaned and cut into 1-inch ribbons red bell pepper, julienned tsp red pepper flakes tsp whole cumin seed tsp salt, plus more to taste stalks mint leaf limes, juiced
MAKE THE MEAL • Broccoli Stir-Fry • Beef Bulgogi • Soba Noodles • Coconut-Mango Pudding
/ preparation / Place broccoli in a microwave-safe container with ¼ cup water; cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap and heat, 4 minutes. Let stand, 2 minutes. Remove from microwave and set aside. In a wok or large sauté pan, heat oil over high heat until it begins to smoke. Add garlic; quickly stir until it starts to brown and then transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon. Add microwaved broccoli, Swiss chard, pepper, red pepper flakes, cumin seed and ½ teaspoon salt to wok or pan; toss for even cooking, approximately 3 minutes. Add garlic and mint leaves; toss, 1 minute. Transfer to a warm platter; taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Drizzle lime juice over top and serve hot.
CULINARY LIBRARY /
SPRINGFIELD, MO
with Angel Beason / culinary director, Kingdom Coffee
t
photography by brandon alms
Angel Beason started her culinary career as a line cook at Progress in Springfield, Missouri. Now, as culinary director of Kingdom Coffee, she’s in charge of the rotating menus at both its locations, filling each with hearty seasonal fare in addition to some of the best coffee drinks in town. With a passion for plant-based food, she includes vegetarian options – think a baked sandwich with cinnamon-roasted butternut squash, crisp kale and honey-walnut goat cheese – on every menu alongside sweet and savory meat dishes such as the Union Biscuit with smoked bacon, egg, sharp Cheddar and a dollop of strawberry-basil preserves. Her creations often combine the traditional with the unexpected, and here she shares three cookbooks that have influenced her work. –Tessa Cooper
The Art of Flavor
Sweet Laurel
Pastry Love
by Daniel Patterson and Mandy Aftel (2017)
by Claire Thomas and Laurel Gallucci (2018)
by Joanne Chang (2019)
“Mandy is a perfumer and Daniel is a two-star Michelin chef, so this is a cookbook and kind of a food science guide rolled into one. It’s more about creating flavors rather than perfecting technique. It’s an essential read to gain more of an understanding of [the] normal ingredients that we expose ourselves to every day. It takes away your impulse to just throw things in a pot and replaces it with thought-out knowledge and practices to level up your game.”
“This book includes recipes for whole-food desserts. Everything is grain-free, gluten-free, refined sugarfree and dairy-free. The book in and of itself is completely feminine, and I think that’s something that I tried not to be in the kitchen when I first started. So when I got this cookbook, it was such a breath of fresh air. It’s sophisticated and it’s indulgent. It’s good food for you, and I want other people to read it because the audience is there – people want things like this.”
“Joanne Chang is a James Beard Award winner. She owns Flour Bakery + Cafe in Boston, and she is a superwoman. She has a degree from Harvard University in applied mathematics and economics. She got her degree before she started baking, and you can see the way her knowledge pours through [this] cookbook – everything is so meticulous.”
2015
Norton ESTATE BOTTLED
OLD VINE M I S S OU R I
Produced and Bottled by Röbller Vineyard Inc. B.W. No. 160 New Haven, MO Alcohol 13% by Vol. #275 Röbller Vineyard Road | New Haven, MO 63068 www.robllerwines.com | robller@fidnet.com
Our dry-farmed, estate-produced Norton increase in complexity with every vintage. In 2015, our vines yielded intensely structured fruit. We captured amazing character with cold soaking followed by slow fermentation and extended maceration. Refined for 36 months in Missouri White and Chinkapin Oak barrels, the result is an extremely robust wine full of deep, dark smoked fruit, framed by firm feathery tannin and earthy notes across the palate. Enjoy this wine now or later; extended cellaring is recommended. W in e m a k e r :
Jerry Mueller
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Any Time is Tea Time Most of us don’t appreciate tea as much as we should, instead putting it on the back burner in favor of coffee. But with access to so many different flavors, innovative blends and fun accessories, you’re missing out if you don’t delve a little deeper. story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com / photography by Jennifer Silverberg
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Tea 101
On a blustery winter night, can you think of a more comforting sound than the whistle of a fresh pot?
*Good
TRUE TEA
In order to be considered “true,” tea must contain some form of the tea plant, Camellia sinensis, which is native to China. Each category of true tea – from white to black and oolong to pu-erh – comes from the same plant; it’s the processing length and technique combined with the environment where each is grown that creates variations in aroma, flavor and strength.
Tea Kettle Tea novice or aficionado, you simply can’t live without a stovetop tea kettle. They’re a classic kitchen gadget, and boiling water for tea in a saucepan or, dare I say, microwave should be
White Tea
illegal. With a seemingly infinite number of
White tea is the least processed true tea. The leaves don’t undergo oxidation, which gives
Choose a durable kettle with a shape you like,
it a delicate, floral flavor that’s sweet and slightly earthy. White teas are usually low in
and keep it perched on your stove all year long.
options, a tea kettle can be substance and style.
caffeine as well, so drink up.
Green Tea Like white tea, green tea is also kept from oxidizing for the most part, but it has a longer total production time. If the green tea in your cup hails from China, it’s roasted, giving it
*Better
Electric Tea Kettle
a toasted nutty flavor; if it hails from Japan, it’s most likely steamed, which results in a
No one needs an electric tea kettle, but if you’re
more verdant and herbal flavor. Japanese green tea is slightly sweeter and lighter than
a regular tea-drinker, you might find that it’s a
the Chinese variety.
Oolong Tea Some oxidation gives oolong tea a darker color and stronger flavor compared to white or green teas, plus it activates natural fermentation, which lends complexity to the final product. Typically, oolong has a medium-bodied, floral flavor – great for those who like an assertive but not overpowering brew.
Black Tea Black tea is oxidized, with the length of oxidation depending on the region and climate from which the leaves come. The flavor of each region’s tea embodies the location:
practical upgrade. Electric kettles usually warm water faster and quieter than their stovetop counterparts and boast automatic shut-off features so you don’t have to worry about leaving it on. Electric kettles also come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors, but you should stick to glass or stainless steel and avoid plastic, as the latter can cause your water to taste like what it’s made of.
*Best
floral and less potent. Assam tea from Assam, India, is malty and complex, and Lapsang
TemperatureControlled Tea Kettle
Souchong from Fujian, a southeastern Chinese province, is dried over pinewood, giving it
If you’re serious about tea, treat yourself to a
a noticeably smoky aroma and flavor.
temperature-controlled tea kettle. Different teas
Ceylon tea, produced in the highlands of Sri Lanka, tends to be full-bodied and chocolatey, while Darjeeling tea, grown and processed in West Bengal, India, is fruity,
Pu-erh Tea Pu-erh – the pride of China’s Yunnan Province – falls into two categories: raw and aged. Raw pu-erh has a flavor and body similar to traditional green tea with nutty or grassy overtones, while aged pu-erh is closer to black tea in depth and complexity. Processed in a way that encourages microbial fermentation after the leaves are dried, pu-erh ages more dynamically than any tea out there. It can be aged from 10 to 50 years, allowing
require different temperatures for optimal flavor and body, and the best kettles don’t just heat the water – they heat the water to accommodate the specific tea you’re brewing. Most temperaturecontrolled kettles have preprogrammed settings designed to brew certain types of tea (and coffee!) and turn out the best cup possible.
flavors to develop and character to emerge over time.
For information about herbal, flavored and other teas, visit feastmagazine.com.
Visit feastmagazine.com for a comprehensive list of tea accouterments to enhance your next tea break. / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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the dish / dine & drink / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE
Tea leaves work wonders on hot water, but don’t underestimate their equally appetizing effect on food. Loose-leaf tea effortlessly adds oomph to a wide array of drinks, dishes and desserts – you just have to know how to work with them. Lisa Govro founder and CEO,
Big Heart Tea Co. The Steep To add your favorite tea flavors to liquids such as drinks, glazes, soups and broths, steep the leaves in hot water as you normally would, adjusting the strength according to how much tea flavor you want to impart on a specific recipe. Brew a double-strength tea to add to smoothies, glazes and frozen desserts, including ice pops and sorbets, or steep directly into hot liquids such as simple syrups or cream for dairy-based sauces and treats.
The Grind In some cases, you’ll need to use dry tea leaves rather than a prepared liquid – that’s where grinding comes into play. By grinding tea leaves in a spice grinder, you reduce them to a powder, which you can add to rubs or marinades, dips, egg dishes and fresh pasta. Is grinding essential? Not at all! Sometimes it depends on what you’d like to achieve. Whole leaves in a compound butter or crust will yield a speckled, striated look, while ground leaves will likely change the color of the final product and disperse the leaves more uniformly.
For some dishes, including oatmeal and baked goods such as brownies, cookies, quick breads and pound cake, whether you steep or grind the tea leaves is really up to you. Cooking grains or beans in brewed tea yields incredible results, but adding ground leaves to stock will pack a bigger punch. See? It just depends. Consider the recipe, how much tea flavor you want and which method works better from a technical standpoint.
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“
[At Big Heart Tea Co. in St. Louis], we have continued running into barriers with timeline [and have had to] readjust our expectations for international travel and logistics. For context, we have 500 kilograms of this really special tea – a blend of second-flush Darjeeling cured with tulsi that a small, woman-run farming co-op made for us – that has been trapped in India, and we’ll probably never get it. [On the other hand], we’ve really gotten to know who’s in our corner, who’s on our side, and develop strong relationships with people we’re buying tea from. For example, Fatewa, one of our farmers in Malawi – we get all of our black tea and some of our green tea from him – was really forwardthinking right when [the pandemic started], and we came up with a bunch of different plans for how to sequence our tea shipments. Being able to brainstorm how we’re going to work things from halfway around the world sounds daunting and challenging, but it was actually a really big relationship-builder, and for the most part, we’re able to make things work for us. bighearttea.com
”
The glaze in this recipe is fantastic, but I encourage you to think of it as a foundation for experimentation. Explore different flavors by picking a tea and pairing it with a fruit juice. Big Heart Tea’s Cup of Sunshine featuring organic turmeric and organic ginger with orange juice, for example, would be fantastic, or the brand’s Malawi Roasted Green (a single-origin green tea) would pair beautifully with pomegranate juice. My only other advice is that if you choose a lighter tea, brew it on the strong side to bring out the flavor.
Tea-Glazed Chicken Wings serves 6 to 8 2½ ¾ ½ 1 4
Vegetable, grapeseed cups brewed pu-erh tea or peanut will work here. cup pineapple juice cup high-quality honey Tbsp, plus 2 tsp, high-heat oil, divided lbs chicken wings kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, whisk brewed tea, pineapple juice and honey together; set over medium high heat. Once mixture bubbles, reduce heat to medium; cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is syrupy and has reduced to between ²⁄₃ and ¾ cup. Set aside. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a lipped baking sheet with aluminum foil; brush with 2 teaspoons oil. In a large mixing bowl, add chicken wings and remaining oil; toss to coat. Season generously with salt and pepper and then spread out on prepared baking sheet; roast, 50 minutes. Remove from oven and brush with half of the prepared tea glaze; cook, 5 more minutes. Remove from oven and brush with remaining glaze; cook until glaze is set, approximately 5 minutes. Remove from oven and serve hot.
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PROMOTION PROMOTION
THIS THISMONTH MONTHWE'RE WE'RETASTING TASTING> >NORTON NORTON PROMOTION
Feast Feast continues continues itsits series series of of Virtual Virtual Wine Wine Tastings, Tastings, bringing bringing thethe wine wine safely safely to to your your door. door. Tune Tune in in online online to to sipsip along along and and learn learn about about Missouri's Missouri's iconic iconic wines. wines. January is “Norton is “Norton Month, Month, ” making ” making it the it the perfect perfect time time THIS MONTH WE'RE TASTING > January NORTON to to taste taste one one of of thethe region's region's richest richest pours. pours. AsAs Missouri’s Missouri’s official official state state grape, grape, Norton Norton produces produces rich, rich, fullfullbodied bodied wine wine and and is series distinctly is distinctly native native to to North North America. America. The The drydry redred has has notes notes of of berry berry and and ainspicy aonline spicy finish, finish, Feast continues its of Virtual Wine Tastings, bringing the wine safely to your door. Tune making it the it and the perfect perfect hearty hearty drink drink to to sustain sustain you you on on long long winter nights. nights. ToTo learn learn more more about about thethe event event onon tomaking sip along learn about Missouri's iconic wines. January iswinter “Norton Month, ” making it the perfect time Thu., Jan. Jan. 2828 orthe or locally locally produced produced wines like like these, these, visit visit feastmagazine.com/wine. feastmagazine.com/wine. toThu., taste one of region's richestwines pours. As Missouri’s official state grape, Norton produces rich, fullbodied wine and is distinctly native to North America. The dry red has notes of berry and a spicy finish, making it the perfect hearty drink to sustain you on long winter nights. To learn more about the event on Thu., Jan. 28 or locally produced wines like these, visit feastmagazine.com/wine.
AUGUSTA AUGUSTAWINERY WINERY
AUGUSTA WINERY The The 2017 2017 Estate Estate Bottled Bottled Norton Norton byby Augusta Augusta Winery Winery pours pours a beautiful a beautiful burgundy burgundy glass glass full full of2017 of drydry red red wine. wine. The The rich rich bouquet bouquet is is The Estate Bottled Norton by Augusta that that of of raspberry raspberry and and black black cherry cherry with with Winery pours a beautiful burgundy glass aromatic aromatic hints hints of of vanilla vanilla and and cigar. cigar. The The fullfull full of dry red wine. The rich bouquet is body body consists of of cassis cassis and and black black cherry cherry that ofconsists raspberry and black cherry with with with jammy jammy overtones overtones and and is cigar. similar is similar in full style in style aromatic hints of vanilla The consistsyet ofyet cassis and black cherry tobody to a Cabernet, a Cabernet, has has the the spiciness spiciness of of a a with jammy overtones and is similar in style Zinfandel. Zinfandel. A lingering A lingering finish finish leaves leaves hints hints of of to a Cabernet, yet hasand the spiciness of spice, spice, dark dark chocolate chocolate and raspberry raspberry onaon thethe Zinfandel. Avintage lingering finish leaves hints of palate. palate. This This vintage is excellent is excellent with with steak, steak, spice, dark chocolate and raspberry on the duck, duck, stews stews and and rich rich cheeses. cheeses. palate. This vintage is excellent with steak, duck, stews and rich cheeses. augustawinery.com augustawinery.com
STONE STONEHILL HILLWINERY WINERY
STONE HILL WINERY When When you you taste taste thethe Stone Stone HillHill Winery Winery 2016 2016 Norton, Norton, you you areare immediately immediately struck struck byby cranberry cranberry and and sour sour cherry onon thethe nose nose When you taste the Stone Hillcherry Winery mingled mingled with with a soft a soft and and rich rich earthiness. earthiness. 2016 Norton, you are immediately struck Delicate Delicate carnations carnations and and blueberries by cranberry and sour cherry onblueberries the nose areare also also inwith the in the mix, along along with with warm, warm, toasted toasted mingled amix, soft and rich earthiness. sugar. sugar. This This vintage vintage aisfruit-forward a fruit-forward Norton Delicate carnations andisblueberries are Norton also inwith the mix, along with warm, toasted with anan old-world old-world aroma aroma and and flavor flavor profile. profile. sugar. This vintage isseason a season fruit-forward Norton The The wet wet harvest harvest of of 2016 2016 made made forfor with an old-world aroma and flavor profile. a delicate a delicate Norton Norton with with softer softer tannins tannins and and a a Theperfect wet harvest season of 2016 made for perfect tartness tartness best best forfor pairing pairing with with hearty hearty a delicate Norton with softer tannins and a January January meals. meals.
perfect tartness best for pairing with hearty January meals. stonehillwinery.com stonehillwinery.com
5601 5601 High High St.,St., Augusta, Augusta, Missouri Missouri augustawinery.com 5601 High St., Augusta, Missouri
1110 1110 Stone Stone HillHill Highway, Highway, Hermann, Hermann, Missouri Missouri stonehillwinery.com 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri
LES LESBOURGEOIS BOURGEOISVINEYARDS VINEYARDS LES BOURGEOIS VINEYARDS
ST. ST.JAMES JAMESWINERY WINERY ST. JAMES WINERY
Les Les Bourgeois Bourgeois Vineyards Vineyards is is located located inLes in historic historic Rocheport Rocheport overlooking overlooking the Bourgeois Vineyards is locatedthe Missouri Missouri River. River. Their Their 2017 2017 Norton Norton is is a in historic Rocheport overlooking the a full-bodied, full-bodied, drydry red red wine wine that that showcases showcases Missouri River. Their 2017 Norton is a the the unique unique characteristics characteristics of of the the official official full-bodied, dry red wine that showcases the unique characteristics of the official state state grape. grape. Their Their winemakers winemakers strive strive forfor grape. Their winemakers strive for a state balance a balance that that can can be be hard hard toto find find with with aNorton, balance that can be hard to findawith Norton, and and thethe process process creates creates bouquet a bouquet and the process creates a and bouquet ofNorton, of violet violet with with spicy spicy earth earth tones tones and rich rich of violet with spicy earth tones and rich fruit fruit flavors. flavors. The The sipsip ends ends with with a lingering, a lingering, fruit flavors. The sip ends with a lingering, light light tannin tannin finish. finish. light tannin finish.
This This wine wine has has anan old-world old-world charm charm with with plum, plum, black black currant currant and and redred cherry cherry aromas. aromas. These These This wine has an old-world charm with plum, fruit fruit aromas aromas can also also bebe found found inThese the in the flavor, flavor, black currant andcan red cherry aromas. fruit aromas can be found instructure the flavor, along along with with a great aalso great tannin tannin structure that that along with aan great tannin structure that creates creates an extremely extremely elegant elegant and and wellwellcreates an extremely elegant and wellbalanced balanced palate. palate. There There is subtle is subtle oak oak and and balanced palate. There is subtle oak and integrated integrated tannin tannin that that gives gives thethe wine wine a silky a silky integrated tannin that gives the wine a silky mouthfeel. mouthfeel. The The Winemaker Winemaker Series Series features features mouthfeel. The Winemaker Series features select select wines wines that that areare made made carefully carefully byby hand hand select wines that are made carefully by hand in small in small batches batches and and feature feature thethe best-ofbest-ofin small batches and feature the best-ofthe-best the-best varietals varietals and and blocks blocks of of grapes. grapes.
the-best varietals and blocks of grapes.
missouriwine.com missouriwine.com missouriwine.com 12847 12847 W. W. Hwy. Hwy. BB,BB, Rocheport, Rocheport, Missouri Missouri 12847 W. Hwy. BB, Rocheport, Missouri
stjameswinery.com stjameswinery.com stjameswinery.com 540 540 State State Rte. Rte. B, B, St.St. James, James, Missouri Missouri 540 State Rte. B, St. James, Missouri
VIP VIPTICKETS TICKETSINCLUDE: INCLUDE:RÖBLLER RÖBLLER RÖBLLER VINEYARD VINEYARD VIP TICKETS INCLUDE: VINEYARD
Röbller Röbller Vineyard’s Vineyard’s dry-farmed, dry-farmed, estate-produced estate-produced Norton Norton increases increases in complexity complexity with with every every vintage. vintage. In In 2015, 2015, their their vines vines yielded yielded intensely intensely Röbller Vineyard’s dry-farmed, estate-produced Norton increases inincomplexity with every vintage. In 2015, their vines yielded intensely structured structured fruit. fruit. The The character character is is captured captured with with cold cold soaking soaking followed followed by by slow slow fermentation fermentation and and extended extended maceration. maceration. Refined Refined for for structured fruit. The character is captured with cold soaking followed by slow fermentation and extended maceration. Refined for 36 3636 months months inin in Missouri Missouri White White and and Chinkapin Chinkapin Oak Oak barrels, barrels, thethe result result is anextremely an extremely extremely robust, robust, limited, limited, reserve reserve wine wine full of of deep, deep, dark-smoked dark-smoked months Missouri White and Chinkapin Oak barrels, the result isisan robust, limited, reserve wine full offull deep, dark-smoked robllerwines.com, robllerwines.com, 275 Röbller Röbller Vineyard Vineyard Road, Road, New New Haven, Haven, Missouri Missouri fruit, fruit, framed framed byby by firm firm feathery feathery tannin tannin and and earthy earthy notes notes across across thethe palate. palate. robllerwines.com, 275275 Röbller Vineyard Road, New Haven, Missouri fruit, framed firm feathery tannin and earthy notes across the palate. / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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“Alexa, play my Flash Briefing.”
SMART SPEAKER. SMARTER HUMAN.
Set it up today: STLtoday.com/alexa
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r i S I N G
A
s one tumultuous year comes to a close and a new
one begins, we’re celebrating those paving the way to a brighter future in our region’s restaurant industry. From the farm to the kitchen to the front of house, these individuals deserve the spotlight not only for their talent, grit and determination but also their ability to lead and inspire during one of the industry’s most trying times. As they pursue their passions and find their niches, they’re spreading joy with everything from boiled bagels to Vietnamese coffee to edible flowers. They’re also using their newfound platforms to address topics such as sustainability, food heritage and equity within both the industry and our communities. Despite the uncertainty that the pandemic has caused, and continues to cause, these Rising Stars exhibit a level of creativity and optimism that makes us hopeful for better – and more delicious – days ahead.
38 kANSAS CITY 42 COLUMBIA 44 St. louis 48 springfield
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James Chang W
*KANSAS CITY
owner, J.Chang Kitchen, and general manager, Waldo Thai Place
J
Ashly Meek W
ames Chang, general manager of Waldo Thai Place, credits his work family, including chef Pam Liberda and bar manager Darrell Loo, for continually
co-founder, Talking Tree Urban Farm
inspiring him and for pushing him to launch J.Chang Kitchen with a line of chile oil. Fed up with the amount of preservatives in imported oils, Chang set about creating his own as a personal challenge. “I thought to myself, surely I can make a better alternative to this,” he says. Although he’s sold out of a half-dozen runs of the fragrant and flavorful oil, Chang is still improving the recipe. For now, the oil is only available in limited runs that Chang announces on his social media accounts – and they sell out almost immediately, so if you’re interested in snagging a bottle (and you certainly should be), you need to act quickly. Recently, chef Tyler Harp commissioned a batch of Chang’s chile oil to use in a special project at Harp Barbecue in Raytown, Missouri. Norcini, located inside Strang Hall in Overland Park, Kansas, also uses the oil to flavor a pizza and a sandwich on its menu. Given the success of his first product, Chang developed an XO sauce and is working on a signature spice blend to add to his lineup; he envisions expanding his selection further still and incorporating it in other ready-to-use concepts. He has also considered selling rights to his chile oil in order to start a Taiwanese café and bar in Kansas City, where he could demonstrate that Chinese cuisine is far from monolithic – that it has more to offer than some might think. Wherever his passion and creativity take him, we’ll be following close behind. –April Fleming facebook.com/Jchang.Kitchen; waldothaiplace.com
A
shly Meek’s passions – nurturing her community and sustainable urban
agriculture – go hand in hand. In order to ensure that the people around her have access to healthy, fresh food, she established Talking Tree Urban Farm on the acres of land around her Kansas City home in 2019, in collaboration with her boyfriend, co-founder Andrew Bertrand. Meek has gained intimate knowledge of farm management working on 2018, which she uses to grow everything from fruits and vegetables to flowers and herbs that attract pollinators, creating an entire ecosystem on the farm. Meek also works with organizations such as Kansas City Food Circle and The Kansas City Food Hub that support local growers and provide healthy food to lowincome communities – something that she hopes to see more of in the city. In the same vein, Talking Tree Urban Farm offers nutritious food at an affordable price – items such as baked goods and preserves are available year-round as well as a seasonal monthly CSA. –Kala Elkinton talking-tree-urban-farm.square.site
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kansas city rising stars photography by pilsen photo co-op
KC Healthy Kids’ Splitlog Farm since March
rising stars Observation Pizza Team
C
hef Nick Vella decided to turn his pandemic pop up, Observation Pizza, into a brick-and-mortar restaurant with a little help from his friends. Now, it’s those
same friends who have banded together to see Vella’s dream come true after his unexpected death this past August. The Observation Pizza crew consists of chefs Melissa Dodd, Elijah Luck and Austin Suedmeyer, who continue to take orders and make the pies, alongside Vella’s former girlfriend, Liz Mehrmann, who handles social media and marketing for the business. Vella’s close friend Chris Harrington, owner of Kansas City-themed retail shop Westside Storey, has also invested in the pizza project and has been scouting possible locations for months. The team hopes to find a permanent spot in the Westside neighborhood, where Vella lived and first launched Observation Pizza. In the meantime, they are operating out of the commercial kitchen inside The Bauer and, occasionally, out of The Savoy at 21c, where Dodd and Suedmeyer used to work and Luck still works full-time. “We don’t want people to order pizza from us out of obligation; we want our pizza to be good enough to live up to what Nick would have wanted Observation Pizza to be,” says Dodd. “We work on our dough and use the same quality ingredients he did, and we are continuing to come up with new pizzas [for customers] to try. We want nothing more than to honor his memory by making great pizza.” –Jenny Vergara observationpizza.com
India Pernell and
Arvelisha Woods
S
W
owners, Mattie’s Foods
isters India Pernell and Arvelisha Woods work, worship and win together. They even transitioned to a vegan diet together as part of a practice of sacrifice during a mission trip.
As their health improved and they became more aware about food production, their short-term goal became a long-term reality. That was approximately four years ago; today, they own and operate Mattie’s Foods, one of the most popular vegan restaurants in Kansas City right now. Navigating a restaurant opening during a pandemic would have overwhelmed many people, but not this joyful pair. With creativity and faith guiding them, they’ve already begun to leave their mark on the local dining scene. They specialize in vegan versions of the comfort foods they grew up eating in their mother’s and grandmother’s kitchens (Mattie’s Foods is named after the latter). Fan favorites include the Mattie Bon (their take on a cinnamon roll); vegan Buffalo mac ‘n’ cheese; brisket sandwich made with tofu marinated in barbecue sauce; and spicy nachos with gluten-free chips, pinto beans, vegan protein, cashew queso, pico and cashew sour cream. The sisters love talking to customers about their experiences with vegan food, especially if it’s their first time eating it. Sometimes, Woods says, something as simple as a slice of vegan cornbread or apple pie cake is enough to make someone smile. –A.F. mattiesfoods.com / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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Eli B. Neal W
chef-owner, Minglewood
A
t Minglewood, which opened inside Strang Hall in Overland Park, Kansas, last September, chef-owner Eli B. Neal creates dishes inspired by his family’s Appalachian roots and his grandmother, who owned a
restaurant from the 1940s to the 1970s – he describes her country cooking as “farm-to-table before that was a thing.” Now, with an eye for detail that he honed in fine-dining kitchens over the years, Neal crafts menu items such as the chicken fried steak sandwich and country ham that respect the ingredients and the heritage of those classic recipes. He hopes to bring that same sensibility to heritage foods from Kansas as well, utilizing Kansas State University’s cookbook collection – among the largest in the country with approximately 38,000 books – and foraging for native ingredients in his free time as part of his research. Neal also finds inspiration in innovators such as Deb Echo-Hawk, a member of the Pawnee Nation of Oklahoma, who has revived long-gone heirloom corn varieties through her work with the Pawnee Seed Preservation Project. “I think that is the coolest thing I can imagine cooking,” says Neal. “To see what corn tasted like in Kansas 800 years ago.” While Neal hopes to include Kansas heirloom crops on his menu in the future, for now he’s focused on weathering the pandemic and building up Minglewood as best he can given the circumstances. “The chicken fried steak sandwich and po’boy are my bestselling items – and they are probably going to stay that way,” he says, “but I think there’s a lot of room to do some
Max Kaniger
really exploratory stuff down the road.” –A.F. stranghall.com/minglewood
W
founder and executive director, Kanbe’s Markets
K
anbe’s Markets is eliminating food deserts one neighborhood at a time. Founder and executive director Max Kaniger
launched the nonprofit in 2018, stocking a collection of convenience stores – all located in Kansas City food deserts – with kiosks of fresh produce. By the beginning of 2020, Kaniger and his three-person team had raised enough money to move into a larger, 15,500-square-foot warehouse space and install commercial refrigeration units, which would allow them to extend the life of the produce they receive. Plans to slowly grow into the space were accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic. As food insecurity rates rose drastically in the city, Kanbe’s Markets was in the perfect position to help. Kaniger began purchasing and storing large amounts of produce from farmers who were unable to sell it due to a breakdown in their supply chains, and the new warehouse supported local chefs, who got paid to process the raw ingredients. The chefs created hot meals that were donated to local shelters, schools and other charitable organizations, using a food truck as their on-site commissary kitchen. Kaniger quadrupled the size of his staff and successfully shepherded Kanbe’s Markets through the rapid expansion. Next, he plans to add a commercial kitchen to the space – just another stepping stone on his path to feed more people fresh, healthy meals made with locally grown food. “In five years, I believe Kansas City will have cracked the code for creating a model on how to fix the food system, and from there, we can hopefully teach other cities how they can replicate our model,” says Kaniger. –J.V. kanbesmarkets.org
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W
Jackie Nguyen
owner, Cafe Cà Phê
A
fter acting in New York for 10 years and then touring
with the Broadway revival of Miss Saigon, Jackie Nguyen, a first-generation American born to Vietnamese refugees, decided to move to Kansas City to launch
Missouri’s first mobile Vietnamese coffee cart, Cafe Cà Phê. “I found a thriving food scene and a Vietnamese community here,” she says, “and I wanted to add my creativity and cultural experiences to the mix by using something mainstream like coffee – in particular, my Vietnamese iced coffee, cà phê đá – to bring people together.” Blending her friendly personality with her professional barista skills, Nguyen is on a mission to make Cafe Cà Phê a safe place for people to try something new such as the signature drink. Sweet but strong, Vietnamese iced coffee is made with highly caffeinated Vietnamese coffee beans, mixed with sweetened condensed milk and poured over ice. The Vietnamese hot chocolate – made with sesame milk, condensed milk and chocolate – is also delicious, and at Cafe Cà Phê, even traditional coffees get a shot of something special such as cardamom, sesame or ube syrup. Need something to munch on while you enjoy your coffee? Nguyen sells honey-glazed donuts from Mr. D’s Donut Shop, a cult favorite located in Shawnee, Kansas. –J.V. cafecaphe.com
Jeff Lichtenberger W
bar manager, Extra Virgin
K
nown for his energetic personality, spunk and deep appreciation of spirits, Jeff Lichtenberger has also brought seemingly limitless creativity
to the bar program at Michael and Nancy Smith’s restaurant Extra Virgin since he was hired almost seven years ago. Prior to leading the team there, Lichtenberger jokes that he worked restaurant jobs that required only a tie-dye T-shirt and the ability to pour a vodka cranberry – when pressed, he also gives a humble nod to the amount of spirits knowledge he’s acquired over the years. Lichtenberger has spent hundreds of hours studying the history, foundation and science of good cocktails, learning what not to do the hard way: through trial and error. He’s put in the work, and his accomplishments show it, but Lichtenberger would rather give credit to the supportive community that’s helped him along the way. At Extra Virgin, Lichtenberger redesigns the cocktail menu every few months, developing a breadth of recipes that are loved by both regulars and first-time guests alike. In the past, he wasn’t opposed to “wacky” concoctions, but he says the COVID-19 pandemic has changed his perspective; now he’s focused on simpler yet well-rounded drinks. Even during this difficult time, Lichtenberger hopes the hospitality industry continues to move forward, embracing differences and giving equal opportunity to all. –K.E. extravirginkc.com
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*COLUMBIA D’Auntre Prince W
chef-owner, Scooter’s Food Joint, and organizer, Boys & Girls Clubs of Columbia
C
olumbia chef D’Auntre Prince is slowly making a name for himself around town, and he’s spreading the love at one of the places that helped make
him who he is. At the Boys & Girls Clubs of Columbia – which he attended himself as a kid – he teaches local youth how to prepare and cook a range of meals, from homemade pizza to chicken alfredo to fried rice. But most local diners will recognize Prince as the face behind Scooter’s Food Joint & Catering, which he launched as a food truck in August 2019. Scooter’s doesn’t have a set menu, but Prince flexes his skills with specialties such as Philly cheesesteak egg rolls, wings and beef and chicken samosas. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Prince has paused his food truck operations while continuing to offer some of his favorite menu items for catering. His work at the Boys & Girls Clubs was also put on hold, but expect him to be back in the classroom when the new school semester ramps up this month. These unforeseen circumstances won’t slow Prince down: This year, he hopes to open a brick-and-mortar location of Scooter’s, focusing on takeout for all taste buds. –K.C.
facebook.com/pages/category/Food---Beverage-Company/Scooters-Food-Joint-Catering-1717480645208107
Sarah Medcalf and
Amanda Rainey
S
W
co-owners, Goldie’s Bagels
arah Medcalf and Amanda Rainey are no strangers to Columbia’s food-and-drink
scene. They met when they were working at Lakota Coffee Co. and Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream, Both have had kids and plenty of other jobs – Rainey, for instance, opened Pizza Tree with her husband, John Gilbreth, in 2014 – but they still wanted to start a business together. Being Jewish, Rainey has strong opinions about bagels, and when she started baking them amid the pandemic, it became clear that the path forward would be paved with boiled bagels. The ultimate goal is to open a family-friendly café, but for now, Goldie’s Bagels is operating out of Pizza Tree, serving fresh bagels made with Seymour (the Pizza Tree sourdough starter), boiled with malt syrup and baked in a pizza oven. Goldie’s comes to life Tuesday through Sunday mornings; you can grab plain, sesame and everything bagels paired with whipped cream cheese, or for a special treat, try the blueberry bagel and the signature Goldie bagel made with turmeric and black sesame seeds (a tribute to the University of Missouri). For Medcalf and Rainey, Goldie’s is not just a business opportunity. “It’s a chance to rewrite what we want the future to look like,” says Rainey. –Kasey Carlson ordergoldies.com
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columbia rising stars photography by keith borgmeyer
respectively, but a lot has changed since then.
rising stars Brenna Gunn W
pastry chef, Flyover
L
ike leavened bread, Brenna Gunn’s role in Columbia’s pastry scene has
been steadily rising since her 16th birthday when she landed her first job at The Upper Crust Bakery and Cafe. Later, she had a
Jheron Nunnelly
multiyear stint with 44 Stone Public House,
W
owner, Mr. Murphy’s Stuffed Potatoes
and two years ago, she took the reins as pastry chef of Flyover, where her regionally inspired desserts made with a contemporary or international twist are a huge hit. With a soft spot for warm spices and autumnal
I
t won’t be long before Jheron Nunnelly outgrows his food truck – both literally and figuratively. Mr. Murphy’s Stuffed Potatoes, his 6-by-9-foot trailer, just might be the smallest food truck in Columbia, Missouri, but
Nunnelly’s menu of loaded spuds, nachos and salads is big on flavor. Nunnelly started cooking as a teenager and
flavors, Gunn says there’s always room for pie
sharpened his skills in the kitchens at Como Smoke and Fire, Jazz A Louisiana Kitchen and Lucky’s Market
and cobbler on her menu. For other culinary
before launching his own catering company, Food Party. He hit the streets with the Mr. Murphy’s truck
inspiration, she draws on memories – merry
in the summer of 2019, but things didn’t kick into full gear until restaurants were forced to close their
moments in the kitchen with family, a favorite
doors in early 2020 amid the COVID-19 pandemic. Nunnelly shifted his focus to Mr. Murphy’s full
childhood treat, the smell of fresh flowers
time, driving the truck to Fulton, Hallsville and other nearby towns. “The hardest transition
from the market. In the face of the pandemic,
was having the confidence to do it,” he says. “I’m used to working 60 to 70 hours a week, so
Gunn has relied on ingenuity to continue
putting in the work and the hours was easy, but the hard part was taking that risk,
moving forward, working collaboratively with
and I’m not going to lie – it was really scary.” But diners continue to line up for his
the Flyover team to redefine the restaurant’s
comforting, scratch-made dishes such as the Smokey Pot Roast with smoked
dessert menu. She’s started crafting boxed
pot roast, shredded Cheddar, sour cream and chives and the Spicy Bacon
desserts made exclusively for to-go orders,
& Bleu with smoked chicken and bacon, blue cheese crumbles, shredded
ensuring that they’re just as decadent and
Cheddar, housemade garlic-Buffalo sauce, sour cream and chives, which can
delicious as any dessert served in the dining
be ordered atop a potato, nachos or salad. This spring, Nunnelly and his wife,
room. For now, Gunn plans to continue creating
Kendell, plan to expand Mr. Murphy’s with a larger truck, and down the line, he
sweet menus – and memories – at Flyover.
dreams of opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant and brewery. –Heather Riske
–Jessica Vaughn Martin flyovercomo.com
facebook.com/pages/category/Food-Truck/Mr-Murphy-Stuffed-Potatoes-401557040683356
*ST. LOUIS
Darren Young and
Charlene Lopez-Young W
chefs-owners, The Fattened Caf
D
espite the challenges the pandemic has imposed, 2020 was a big year for Darren Young and Charlene Lopez-Young. Pre-pandemic, the couple planned to pop up at Earthbound Beer on
Cherokee Street once a month to serve their signature version of Filipino barbecue; instead, their business, The Fattened Caf, has made at least three appearances per month and has been selling to-go meals of chicken inasal, pork belly sisig, ube (purple yam) brownies and assorted brunches every week. Now, their delicious prepared meals and longanisa (Filipino sausage) are also available at Schnucks stores across the St. Louis area. Although this kind of growth was unexpected, it’s exhilarating, and The Fattened Caf shows no signs of slowing down. Charlene left her full-time position to keep up with demand, and the couple hopes to one day open a brick-and-mortar location on the same street where they first shared their food with customers. “It’s just this thing that’s taken off, and we’re riding the wave and we’re really excited,” says Charlene. “We’re so excited to see how big it can get, and as long as everyone’s willing to still eat Filipino barbecue, we’ll be here.” –K.C. instagram.com/TheFattenedCaf
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photography by rolf ringwald
rising stars
Hannah Kerne W
Kurt Bellon
co-founder, Bakers for Black Lives
W
owner, Izumi
H
ave you seen that person dishing out Japanese-style sandos from a bright-red 1995
Subaru Sambar? That’s Kurt Bellon. In October, Bellon launched Izumi, a Japanese pop-up concept inspired by konbini – Japanese convenience stores that sell premade sandos served on shokupan (Japanese milk bread), alongside green tea, milk drinks, shrimp chips and Pocky (chocolate-coated biscuit sticks). Named after his mother’s
sure exactly what shape Izumi will take in the future. He hopes to
hometown in Japan, Izumi features snacks reminiscent of
maintain some kind of konbini-inspired business – whether that’s
those that Bellon would pick up on trips to the country. The
his own brick-and-mortar restaurant with a grab-and-go feel or a
first month, Bellon operated Izumi from different pick-up
spot at other St. Louis food businesses where fans can easily snag
locations around The Grove, and his first four dates sold
his sandos –but Bellon is moving the business forward one step at a
out within hours. For several months, he did all prep work
time. “I just think that there’s so much potential in St. Louis for a lot of
at Chao Baan, a highly regarded Thai restaurant in The
Japanese food past sushi and ramen,” he says. –K.C. izumistlouis.com
Grove where he served as general manager, but he’s not
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
W
hen protests in support of the Black Lives Matter movement swelled
throughout the country last summer, Hannah Kerne, who had been working as the assistant pastry chef at Vicia up until COVID-19 hit the area,
Nico Shumpert
W
private chef
found herself grappling with a sense of urgency and powerlessness at the same time. As she began talking with her roommate, fellow pastry chef Sharon Harter, the two realized the solution was more obvious than they’d thought. “We just looked
P
rivate chef Nico Shumpert admits that he loves binge-watching shows on Food Network, but his cooking chops extend far beyond the reaches of his living room.
Since graduating from culinary school, Shumpert has worked in kitchens across St. Louis, from St. Louis Bread Co. to Sidney Street Cafe to Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co., but themed dinner series are where he really showcases his prowess. At these immersive dining events, he aims to engage all the senses and give guests a break from the norm. For his Halloween-themed dinner series last October, he not only designed the menus – layering prosciutto on top of asparagus flatbread to look like skin as a tribute to Hannibal Lecter, for example – but he also fine-tuned the setting, having guests dine by candlelight and playing appropriately creepy music. In the future, Shumpert plans to play with other themes for dining experiences throughout the year. Currently, he’s also collaborating with St. Louis nonprofit Ujima on its new eight-month culinary training program, Project Salsa, which will teach kids in marginalized communities how to produce, package, market and sell salsa. Working with Nick Speed, founder and president of Ujima, Shumpert will help teach the high school- and college-aged students basic kitchen skills, and he has developed the recipes for different salsas – think spicy tomato and pineapple – which will be sold to support the program starting this spring. “I’m big on education, especially equipping kids with knowledge and some kind of direction,” he says. “When they go into the workforce, [I want] them to have a leg up on the competition.” Additionally, Shumpert is excited to launch a YouTube series this month, which will be his way to continue entertaining as more of us stay at home. –Rachel Huffman nicoshumpert.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
at each other and said, ‘Why don’t we just bake?’” says Kerne. “This is our love language; there’s no other way we can express ourselves more radically than this form of love.” The duo enlisted other local pastry chefs, including Tyler Davis and Meghan Coltrain; before they knew it, their initiative, a bake sale dubbed Bakers for Black Lives, had blossomed into a community-wide effort with more than 40 establishments contributing baked goods. So far, the bake sales have raised $40,000 for local racial justice organizations such as Action St. Louis, ArchCity Defenders and STL Mutual Aid, and more events are planned for this winter. Kerne, who says she’s always wanted to combine her love for food and advocacy, hopes that Bakers for Black Lives can be a vehicle to help connect people with their community and better serve the needs of the city. “You have to meet people where they’re at,” she says. “Everyone’s form of activism is different in the way that they’re comfortable contributing, and I think a lot of people [saw] this as a way they could be part of the movement and gain understanding at their comfort level.” –H.R. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
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Pat Gioia W
bartender, STLBarkeep
P
at Gioia creates cocktails like a musician writes music. “Every note has been played,” he says. “You have to figure out how to structure them for
you, so they vibe with what you’re doing.” The same goes for cocktail ingredients. A self-proclaimed “lifer” in the restaurant industry, Gioia met Matt Longueville, owner of STLBarkeep, years into his career, and the pair hit it off immediately. When COVID-19 began wreaking havoc, Gioia left his job as bar manager at The Block in Webster Groves, Missouri, to join Longueville’s team full-time, helping to launch a virtual happy hour program, virtual cocktail classes and more. Gioia embraces the farm-to-cocktail model that drives STLBarkeep, working with Eat Here Saint Louis every week to choose seasonal, locally sourced ingredients that go into the featured cocktails at the company’s socially distanced events as well as its Silver Lining cocktail series, which delivers batch cocktails to imbibers throughout the area. He’s also been asked to appear in a TV series produced by Mid Coast Media, where he’ll be pairing cocktails with food. The series focuses on wellness in the time of COVID-19, and Gioia’s role is to explain why people shouldn’t be afraid to have a cocktail. Above all, Gioia says he loves his job because it’s always different. “The ever-changing landscape that we’ve been able to navigate fairly successfully is probably the coolest thing about doing this right now.” As he takes this time to contemplate carving his own path in the industry, Gioia is also thinking about launching his own line of bitters one day. –R.H. stlbarkeep.com
Sarah Schlafly
S
W
CEO, Mighty Cricket
arah Schlafly wants us all to live mightily. Her St. Louis-based company, Mighty
Cricket, sells protein powder and high-protein instant oatmeal made with crickets – that’s right, crickets. For years, Schlafly taught nutrition and cooking classes, and her passion for food equity drove her to build a clean and equitable protein supply to help sustain our communities. Although entomophagy (the practice of eating insects) is commonplace in many cultures outside of the U.S., when Schlafly first considered consuming them herself, she thought, frankly, that sounded disgusting. Now she happily munches on whole crickets – which she compares to popcorn – and she’s working to change other Americans’ perceptions of insects as well. Schlafly lets her products, from flavorful vanilla protein powder to decadent dark chocolate oatmeal to classic apple-cinnamon oatmeal – which all feature mild, nutty crickets – speak for themselves. This year, she had big plans for the company involving restaurants and festivals, which the COVID-19 pandemic thwarted, but she was able to shift gears, moving retail to the forefront. Companies in Southeast Asia and Mexico are also showing interest in her products, which has opened her eyes to new export opportunities. When the restaurant industry finds its feet again, Schlafly hopes to work with chefs to position cricket protein to appeal to the American palate. In October, she launched Aya’s Market, an online grocery store that aims to make nutritious food accessible to all – a project that naturally aligns with the ethos of Mighty Cricket. Now, she’s focused on growing those businesses together.
–R.H. mightycricket.co; ayasmarket.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of pat gioia
patrick and
spencer clapp W
owners, Coffeestamp
P
atrick and Spencer Clapp have a simple approach to roasting coffee: Start with
the best beans possible. Born and raised in Tegucigalpa, Honduras, the brothers grew up immersed in the coffee industry – as soon as their mother let them start drinking coffee as
Juwan Rice
W
founder, JR’s Gourmet
teenagers, they were enjoying carefully roasted handpicked beans that their neighbors would bring over from their farm. When they moved to the U.S. in 2012, they were struck by the difference in both quality and price of coffee, and they set about creating a local coffee brand focused on ethically grown and responsibly sourced beans. Now, they’re realizing that dream with their Fox Park micro-roastery and café, Coffeestamp, located inside a 100-year-old two-story building that the brothers renovated themselves after the city’s stay-at-home order halted their construction plans early last year. They’re proud to source beans from their childhood friends at Finca La Alondra as well as other single-origin coffees from farms in Brazil, Colombia, Rwanda and Zambia, which are roasted upstairs and served to guests downstairs. And with a full coffee bar (plus a few scratch-made dishes, including eight flavors of empanadas), Patrick and Spencer not only provide ethically sourced, expertly roasted coffee but also help guests taste why that matters. –H.R. coffeestamp.com PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
N
ot many 12-year-olds have their own business cards, but that’s just one testament to Juwan Rice’s lifelong
passion and drive. Now 19, he started cooking when he was 6 years old and officially began selling his cookies and other baked goods at age 12. When his mom started taking his packaged desserts with her to work, Rice realized he could actually make some money – and JR’s Gourmet Desserts and Catering was born. Rice, who has since gained experience in the kitchen at a few local country clubs, River City Casino and, most recently, Bait, soon broadened his concept to focus on gourmet meals and private catering. When COVID-19 hit the area last spring and many restaurants closed their doors, he began selling comforting, scratch-made dishes such as red wine short ribs, blackened salmon Cajun pasta and buttermilk-brined fried chicken drizzled with lemon-pepper honey butter for curbside pickup. In an effort to give back, he also founded Feeding the Frontline STL, which provided hundreds of meals to healthcare workers helping to battle the virus around the St. Louis area. In 2021, Rice plans to return to his true passion – pastry – when he launches a new branch of JR’s Gourmet to provide elevated desserts (think a honey-lavender cake layered with vanilla bean-espresso buttercream and honeycomb crunch served with lemon caviar pearls, vanilla bean sugar crumble and citrus curd) to restaurants across St. Louis. –H.R. facebook.com/chef.juwann
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JORDAN BAUER
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*SPRINGFIELD Molly McCleary W
farmer and owner, Maypop Flower Farm
M
aypop Flower Farm in Neosho, Missouri, has only been operating for one season, but owner Molly McCleary has
already found her niche. In addition to selling ready-made bouquets at farmers’ markets throughout the state, she’s begun offering edible flowers to chefs and bakers in Springfield and Joplin to add to their delectable dishes. In spring and summer, you’ll find the farm’s perky marigolds, charming globe amaranths, delicate nasturtiums, vibrant purple hyacinth beans and more in baked goods and entrées at places around town, including Cake, The Flour Box, Lilac and Lord Baking, The Order and Prairie Pie. McCleary believes flowers can add more than just flavor and color to a dish, though; she says a scented bouquet on the table can enhance the entire dining experience. “A bouquet creates a whole atmospheric presence. Fragrance is such an important part of memory and beauty, too. It adds so much to a bouquet because it’s not just visually beautiful; you can smell the flowers, and they generally remind you of something or someone.” Before starting her own business, McCleary took botany classes and studied herbalism at the Colorado School of Clinical Herbalism. This year, McCleary wants to expand her business with new infrastructure –
Rachel Fair W
currently, she’s working on farms in California to save money for a walk-in cooler, high tunnels and a delivery van. –Tessa Cooper maypopflowerfarm.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TESSA COOPER
owner, Whipped Cream & Other Delights
R
Ellie Schmidly Jones
achel Fair has always loved baking, but when she became vegan four years ago, she stopped. “I didn’t think it would be possible
to bake good-tasting things without eggs and butter, so I pretty much
W
gave up,” she says. After receiving high praise from her family for her annual Thanksgiving meal, however, Fair felt more hopeful. In May 2019,
owner, Cake
she launched Whipped Cream & Other Delights, offering vegan holiday plates with all the sides you’d expect at Thanksgiving – from mashed potatoes to stuffing – along with Christmas cookies and cakes for pickup that she says taste even better than their dairy-laden counterparts. The catering-business-turned-vegan-bakery is now known for weekly breakfasts as well, which include cheesy breakfast sandwiches and
E
llie Schmidly Jones has many talents. Besides building a successful singing
career – she’s released two EPs in the past three
fluffy biscuits and gravy. Fair conducts R&D and does all the cooking
years – she’s also turned her baking hobby into a
herself, but her assistant baker – plus, on occasion, her teenage
sustainable business in just a few months. Like
daughters – helps run the business. Her goal is for Whipped Cream &
most people, Jones found herself with extra time
Other Delights to be the first 100-percent vegan, full-service brick-and-
on her hands during the stay-at-home order that
mortar restaurant in Springfield, Missouri, but down the line, she says
went into effect last March. Unable to book gigs,
she’d love to have some company in that field. “I wish I had more time and
she spent her days baking. “I was just looking for
ability to be a louder, more involved activist for this movement,” she says,
a way to make something beautiful,” she says.
“but I really feel that in my own little way, I’m making a difference.”
“It was a really quick payoff because in a few
–Claire Porter whippeddelight.com
hours, I could have this lovely baked good.” v
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY brad zweerink
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rising stars
Justyn Pippins W
manager, Big Momma’s Coffee & Espresso Bar, and events coordinator, Q Enoteca
L
ong before COVID-19 made food delivery services a necessity, Justyn Pippins worked as the delivery manager of Big Momma’s Coffee & Espresso Bar. In 2009,
he moved to Springfield, Missouri, from Indianapolis to work for his uncle Lyle Foster, owner of the café. Since then, he’s explored every facet of the business – working in the kitchen, cleaning and even booking events at Big Momma’s, which is known as a safe space in the city where residents can come together to have difficult conversations about topics such as race, immigration and sexuality. Pippins says he feels an intrinsic loyalty to the business. “It’s a culture thing,” he says. “When you own something – when it’s family – you treat it a little differently than regular employees do.” Pippins continues to help behind the scenes at Big Momma’s along with planning events such as socially distanced open mics and private parties at Q Enoteca, another one of Foster’s businesses, in addition to working full-time as the human resources manager of Everything Kitchens. It’s hard to understand where he finds the time, but Pippins has also been involved in the revitalization of Minorities in Business, a local organization that promotes economic opportunities for minority groups. He’s established a social media presence for the organization and helps host monthly virtual meetings, in which members might discuss networking opportunities, spotlight a business or sponsor, have panel discussions or conduct small business workshops. Pre-pandemic, Pippins invited Stedman Graham, Oprah Winfrey’s longtime partner, to a speaking engagement in the city. “I want to continue to make Springfield a more dynamic town in Missouri,” he says. “I am going to keep fighting for this place.” –T.C. bigmommascoffee.com; qenoteca.com PHOTOGRAPHY BY brad zweerink
Prior to baking full-time, she worked as the front-ofhouse manager of Cherry Picker Package x Fare for a year. Now, she sells her delicious slices of cake at Cherry Picker on Fridays and Saturdays – if you want a taste, we suggest getting there early because her sweet selection usually sells out fast. From sweet potato cake with sweet and salty cream cheese icing, pecan crumble and torched meringue with orange zest to basil cake with black raspberry buttercream and edible flowers from Maypop Flower Farm, her flavors mirror the seasons, and she enjoys experimenting with unconventional baking methods such as drawing flavors into her cakes with steeped floral teas. This year, Jones plans to join Eleanor Taylor of Prairie Pie in her new retail space on South Jefferson Avenue, giving customers more access to her coveted treats. –T.C. instagram.com/cake.sgf
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TESSA COOPER
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Good to-go
▪ COLUMBIA, MO
Jalapeño-Smothered Pork Chop Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by ben nickelson
Addison’s in Columbia, Missouri, defines itself as “an American grill,” and few dishes at the restaurant are more American than the jalapeño-smothered pork chop. The dish starts with a 12-ounce pork chop from Patchwork Family Farms. Brined with brown sugar, it’s then topped with pepper Jack cheese sauce and blistered jalapeños for a creamy kick. Pair it with Addison’s signature roasted garlic smashed potatoes for a truly satisfying at-home dining experience. Multiple locations, addisonsgrill.com
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f e at u r in g o u r f av o r it e ta k e o u t
At Local Retailers & StoneHillWinery.com / j a nu a ry 2 02 1
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