February 2022 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Brew Your Best Cup

P. 2 2

4 Explore Global Styles

P. 2 5

4 Caffeinate Your Cooking

P. 3 1

february 2022

t h e

i s s u e

THURSDAY, FEB. 24, 2022

Presented by:

Enjoy Girl Scout Cookie-inspired desserts created by top local pastry chefs and celebrate the achievements of two bold Gold Award Girl Scouts and three Legacy Builders. This year’s event will also include a historic announcement that you don’t want to miss! In-person and virtual event options are available. Purchase tickets at girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst. Individual Legacy Builder

Corporate Legacy Builder

Community Legacy Builder

Cynthia Heath

PNC

St. Louis Zoo

Sponsors Centene Charitable Foundation • Edward Jones • PNC • A-Mrazek Moving Systems, Inc. • BKD, LLP • Cigna • Husch Blackwell • Afinitas, Inc. • Armanino, LLP • Bayer • CBIZ • Commerce Bank • Cord Moving and Storage Company • Little Brownie Bakers • Mercy • Missouri Baptist Medical Center • MTM, Inc. • Neal and Kellie Spencer • Palmer & Cay • SWT Design, Inc. • FEAST • Stone Hill Winery

ACHIEVE YOUR DREAM WEDDING With help from our Any Reason, Any Season Loan.

RATES AS LOW AS 6.99% APR* FOR 48 MONTHS Apply today at TogetherCU.org or visit a branch near you! *APR = Annual Percentage Rate. Minimum loan amount $500. Rates based on underwriting and may be higher based on individual qualiﬁcations and term; 6.99% APR lowest rate available for 48 months. EXAMPLE: For a $10,000 loan for a term of 48 months with a 6.99% APR, the monthly payment would be $239.42. Rates are eﬀective January 1, 2022 and are subject to change. Membership eligibility required. All loans subject to approval. Equal Opportunity Lender. Federally insured by NCUA.

/ 09 / the mix No Cap Snow Cap

/ 10 / on trend

Anaerobic Coffee

/ 12 / midwest made Ready-to-Drink Cold Brew

/ 13 /

one on one Caleb Alwardt of Green House Coffee + Affogato Bar

/ 14 / The Dish Dirty Chai from LaJoy's Coffee Cafe

/ 15 /

one on one Bryndon and Collin Bay of First Crack Coffee

/ 16 /

mystery shopper Espresso Powder

/ 18 / healthy appetite

Pastelitos Andinos with Potato and Queso Fresco

/ 19 / one on one

Holly Bastin of Roast Ratings and Coffee is People

/ 20 / quick fix Vietnamese-Inspired Coffee Cupcakes

/ 21 / pro picks Christopher Oppenhuis of Marcell Coffee

/ 22 / crash course A Guide to Brewing Your Very Best Cup

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

coffee culture

beyond the brew

Get a taste of eight signature coffee drinks from across the globe.

See what else coffee can do in the kitchen with these four savory recipes.

▶ stl | 02/06 | St. Louis Best Bridal Wedding Expo 1pm; $10; The Factory, 17105 N. Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield, Missouri; stltoday.com/ourevents Attendees can meet local wedding vendors and shop bridal looks and trends at this upscale showcase of all things St. Louis weddings.

▶ stl | 02/11 | St. Louis Post-Dispatch Trivia Night 6pm; $280 for a table of 8; Moolah Shrine Center, 12545 Fee Fee Road, St. Louis, Missouri; stltoday.com/trivia Join the St. Louis Post-Dispatch in celebrating the rich history of St. Louis! The program will be led by St. Louis Post-Dispatch’s own Joe Holleman, and guests will have the chance to mingle with various Post-Dispatch columnists. A portion of the event proceeds will benefit 100 Neediest Cases.

▶ stl | 02/19 | Schnucks Cooks: Vietnamese-Inspired Coffee Cupcakes Sat., Feb. 19, 3 to 6pm; $35; Zoom; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/ cooking-school In this class, we’ll explore different Vietnamese flavors and dishes from warming soups to classic sandwiches. You’ll learn how to make bánh mì, beef pho, shrimp summer rolls and Vietnameseinspired coffee cupcakes.

▶ stl | 02/24 | Dessert First 6 to 9pm; individual tickets $175; The Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta St. Louis, 212 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri; girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst For the past 11 years, Dessert First has challenged prominent St. Louis chefs to flex their baking skills and deliver one-of-a-kind Girl Scout cookie-inspired creations. During the cocktail hour, guests are asked to vote for their favorite desserts. Later, at the formal seated dinner, attendees celebrate the extraordinary achievements and contributions of three Legacy Builders and two amazing Girl Scouts!

A four-day celebration of cutting-edge nonfiction film, music, & art transforming downtown columbia into a one-of-a-kind creative wonderland.

PASSES ON SALE! TRUEFALSE.ORG

▶ COMO | 03/03-03/06 | True/False Film Festival passes vary in price and benefits from $50 to $995; truefalse.org True/False is four days of cutting-edge nonfiction film, immersive art, live music and wildly imaginative parties. Transforming downtown Columbia, Missouri, into a unique wonderland, True/False Film Festival invites you to reimagine reality. / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

Inspired Local Food Culture /

ANNUAL STOUT FEST IS BACK!

3.5.22

february

midwest

2022

Volume 12 / Issue 02 EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin editorial intern

Charlotte Renner fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Pete Dulin, Amy Feese, Amber Fisher, Rogan Howitt, Mary Mack, Lauren Quick, Nancy Stiles, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera

cask experience madagascar experience cms experience single origin experience Guest tap handles & more!

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Brandon Alms, Zach Bauman, Neil Burger, Tessa Cooper, Robert Grimm, Lisa Krantz, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Vaughn Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Coffee cups by Neil Burger table of contents Ethiopian coffee ceremony at Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar by Pilsen Photo Co-op

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

editor’s letter

hen we first discussed the idea of a completely coffee-focused issue back in September, I have to admit I was a little hesitant. Would the stories be varied enough to constitute an entire issue? Happily, as you’ll see in these pages, the answer was an emphatic “yes.” In this issue, you’ll not only find recommendations for ready-to-drink cold-brew coffee (p. 12), profiles of new coffee shops (such as Green House Coffee + Affogato Bar, on p. 13) and a guide to the four fundamentals of brewing (p. 22), but you’ll also discover recipes, tips and tricks that go far beyond your regular morning cup. Inspired in part by dalgona coffee, the frothy whipped beverage that took social media by storm during quarantine, we’re spotlighting a few signature coffee drinks from across the globe – plus, where you can order them locally (p. 25). Whether you’re brewing with a Chemex, French press or a trusty automatic brewer, don’t even think about tossing out those leftover grounds or brewed coffee. As recipe developer Amber Fisher explores in her feature on p. 31, coffee is a secret weapon in the kitchen,

tenderizing meats and adding robust flavor to sweet and savory dishes alike. Personally, I’m looking forward to digging into a bowl of her coffee-braised short rib tagliatelle on a cold night. Plus, we’ve got even more coffee content for you online. Head to feastmagazine.com to read writer Mary Mack’s profile of Coffeestamp owners Patrick and Spencer Clapp. Born and raised in Honduras, the brothers have been immersed in the coffee industry from an early age. Now, they’re offering St. Louisans a taste of single-origin coffees from around the world at their Fox Park roastery and café. Whether you’re encouraged to try a new brewing method, buy some beans from a new-to-you local roaster or throw some coffee grounds in your next spice rub, I hope this issue inspires you to explore the many possibilities of coffee. Cheers,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

PROMOTION

RECREATING OUR FAVORITE FOOD EXPERIENCES When I was living in South Carolina, my husband and I spent every Saturday morning at the local farmers market. It was the perfect time to spark creativity for upcoming meals as we picked out whatever fresh produce was in season along with fresh baked breads, infused oils, local eggs and meats. The journey through the market always ended with a tasty snack from one of the restaurant vendors. Though there were always many choices, my favorite spot was a small tent offering arepas. The warm golden patty was the perfect combination of crispy outside filled with savory soft corn meal, seasoned meats or cheese and topped with fresh pico de gallo. While bundled up on a cold winter day, dreaming of warmer weather and these flavorful maize pockets it inspired me to recreate the dish. Using a masa harina base, I added spinach to the arepas and topped with avocado and black beans for a healthy twist. One bite instantly brought me back to the sunny mornings at the market. Using these Good For You ingredients helps me take steps forward on my personal health journey while still enjoying the comfort food I love from the farmers market. You can opt in to the Good For You program at Schnucks by going to schnucks.com/goodforyou. Find new recipes to inspire your next meal, keep track of your shopping habits and if you opt in by the end of February you could win $1,000 in Schnucks Rewards Points. It’s a new way to shop, feel and live healthier and we can’t wait for you to join us.

SPINACH AREPAS WITH AVOCADO AND BLACK BEANS SERVES 4 AREPAS:

TOPPING:

1½ cups warm water

1/3 cup coconut flour

1 large avocado

¼ cup Cojita cheese

1 tsp salt

2 Tbsp cornstarch

1/3 cup salsa

¼ cup roasted

½ cup frozen spinach,

1 tsp baking powder

1 lime, cut into

pepitas

thawed

½ tsp canola oil

6 wedges

1 cup masa harina

1 can Full Circle black beans, drained and rinsed

PREPARATION Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, stir together warm water and salt until dissolved, then add the spinach and mix. In a separate bowl, whisk together the masa harina, coconut flour, cornstarch and baking powder. Stir in the water mixture. Form into a pliable and moist ball. If dough is too sticky, add an additional tablespoon of coconut flour. Cover and let rest 5 minutes. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Roll the dough into four balls, then press each ball into approximately ¼-inch-thick disks. Coat the pan with canola oil, add the arepas and sear each side 2–3 minutes or until golden brown. Place the arepas on a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake for 12–15 minutes or until slightly puffed and golden brown; let cool. Meanwhile, peel and seed the avocado, then mash with the juice of two lime wedges. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Combine beans with salsa. Evenly top arepas with the avocado mixture, black beans, cotija and pepitas. Serve immediately with lime wedges.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

the mix

on trend

midwest made

the dish

MYSTERY SHOPPER

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

crash course

Dating back to the early '80s, the Espresso Martini has seen its share of fame. And though it peaked in the '90s, its revival is underway. As a simple cocktail, it demands the finest ingredients, and

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage

while strongly brewed

director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri

coffee or espresso will

Photography by cheryl vaughn

work, a better option is to contact local coffee purveyors and ask to buy their cold-brew concentrate. Vodka is the traditional spirit for Martinis, but you can mix things up with rum, tequila or mezcal. A splash of amaro adds an herbal element to this recipe – and don’t forget the bitters.

We recommend Flor de Caña Spresso

Serves 1 1½ ¾ ¼ 1 1 2 2

oz vodka oz coffee liqueur oz Branca Menta oz cold-brew concentrate bar spoon granulated sugar dashes Angostura aromatic bitters dashes chocolate bitters coffee beans, for garnish fresh mint, for garnish

/ preparation / Add all ingredients, except garnishes, to a shaker tin with ice; shake vigorously until mixture is diluted and chilled (this should result in a frothy, milky look). Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with coffee beans and fresh mint. Enjoy.

/ f e br u a ry 2 02 2

the mix

on trend

midwest made

the dish

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Anaerobic Coffee

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

crash course

▪ Serendipity Roasting Co. In Eldon, Missouri, southwest of Jefferson City, all but one of the coffees at Serendipity Roasting Co. are made using anaerobic fermentation. Serendipity began selling coffee beans online in January 2020 – before the café opened later that year – and anaerobic offerings were always part of the menu. “The flavor profiles that you’ll get in good anaerobic coffees, they are, in my estimation, better than just a natural coffee,” owner Cliff Simmons says. “We get people that are blown away.” Some customers even liken the flavors of specific anaerobic coffees offered at Serendipity, such as PINK (Pink Bourbon Gold Washed), to Trix cereal or Zebra Fruit Stripe gum thanks to the fruit and citrus notes. “People who are really into coffee – the coffee connoisseurs who come – say, ‘Wow, I’ve never tasted anything like this before.’” 18 S. Maple St., Eldon, Missouri, serendipityroastingcompany.com

◀ Parisi Coffee Purists might not consider the Nicaragua Anaerobic from Parisi Coffee in Kansas City to be true anaerobic coffee. The beans come from Los Pinos Estate, where farmer Byron Corrales puts the coffee cherries in a heavy-duty black bag and then manually squeezes out the air. Corrales ferments the cherries for 48 hours before laying them out to dry. “Kind of like in a bourbon or a wine, that adds a little finish to the coffee,” says Nick Scott, head roaster of Parisi Coffee. The final cup has a syrupy body and a long-lasting sweet-tart finish with notes of Concord grape, mixed berry compote, hibiscus, vanilla and bitter orange. “[Anaerobic coffees are] curve balls, out on the edge, and you don’t understand until you drink them,” he says. “You’re going to experience coffee in a totally new way.” multiple locations, parisicoffee.com

▪ Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. When retail training manager Andrew McCaslin and the rest of the Kaldi’s team first tasted anaerobic coffee, it was a blind cupping. “We lucked out when this coffee found its way to our cupping table,” McCaslin says of the Honduras Edgar Written by nancy stiles / photo courtesy of parisi coffee

Coffee isn’t usually thought of as a fermented beverage; however, a toasty roast has more in common with your

Carrillo Anaerobic Natural. Edgar and Karen Carrillo founded Pacayal Coffee in 2014 in response to a leaf rust outbreak that plagued Honduran coffee. “The anaerobic coffee was born out of his willingness to find innovative methods to increase the

favorite wine or IPA than you might realize. As soon as the coffee cherries are harvested, they begin fermenting

diversity of the farm’s offerings and flavor profiles,” McCaslin

naturally due to their high sugar content. Typically, coffee is made using open fermentation, in which the air

says. He admits that the majority of Kaldi’s customers opt for

interacts with the coffee cherries, but some producers use anaerobic fermentation, in which the coffee cherries are completely deprived of oxygen and left to ferment for 12 to 400 hours. Anaerobic fermentation often imparts

the classic house blends, but the anaerobic offering appeals to the more adventurous crowd. “They love the fruit-forward flavors and sweetness,” he says.

a punchy, fruit-forward flavor to the beans, resulting in an interesting depth not tasted in more traditionally produced coffees. We recommend skipping the milk, sugar and syrups, as anaerobic coffee is best sipped black. 10

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

multiple locations, kaldiscoffee.com

PROMOTION

PRESENTED BY

CO F F E E IS ABUZZ WITH HEALTH BENEFITS S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

ARABICA

ROBUSTA

LIBERICA IBERICA

EXCELSA

If you’ve just taken a sip of coffee and swear you can detect sweet, bright, fruity undertones, you’re almost certainly enjoying one that’s been made with Arabica beans. Compared to sharpertasting Robusta, they’re more layered and complex — and more expensive. Arabica beans, which include the popular Kona and Typica varieties, are harder to grow and harder to harvest, but aficionados wouldn’t have it any other way. It’s also why Arabica beans make up more than 60% of the coffee market.

Packed with a ton of caffeine bang for not a lot of bucks, Robusta is the workhorse of the coffee world. Although coffee brewed from Robusta usually tastes strong and bitter, the beans are still incredibly popular — they’re the kind most commonly found in grocery stores and in instant coffee. Coffea robusta, the species of plant these beans come from, is hardy and proliﬁc, which is reﬂected in its lower price. High-quality Robustas do exist, though: They’re excellent beans for making espresso.

Although Liberica beans account for only about 2% of worldwide coffee consumption, they are tops in the Philippines. There, the beans are colloquially called “barako,” meaning “manly”— a reference to their intense, smoky, woody taste. When the almondshaped beans are roasting, they’re known to emit an odor like durian, the fruit famous for smelling like gym socks. These beans have been called an acquired taste — polarizing, but worth a try. Do it soon: Pure Liberica plants are in danger of becoming extinct.

Not so long ago, Excelsa, grown predominantly in Southeast Asia, was its own family of beans. Alas, it’s gotten the Pluto treatment: stripped of its classification and lumped in with Liberica beans — scientifically, at least. Coffee enthusiasts point out that Excelsa beans have a dramatically different taste than Libericas do, at once tart and toasty. These beans work very well in coffee blends because they help balance multiple flavors.

“It also helps lower your risk of heart disease, depression, Type 2 diabetes and diseases like Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s,” she says. “One way it works is by reducing inflammation in your cells through antioxidants and stopping or slowing the growth of cancer cells through polyphenols. Coffee also contains magnesium, which assists in muscle contraction and can help you avoid muscle cramps.” The key is to consume caffeine in moderation. While the perks of coffee are many, it’s still important to drink it in moderation. Experts

Coffee drinks made with lots of sugar and

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

1 15½ oz can chickpeas 1 Tbsp olive oil ½ tsp salt

1 tsp cocoa powder (unsweetened) 1 tsp ground coffee or espresso

say to limit caffeine consumption to 400 milligrams a day, or about four cups of coffee. After that, caffeine has some drawbacks. It can lead to increased anxiety, a rapid pulse and interrupted sleep. Plus, caffeine can be addictive and dehydrating, so make sure to drink plenty of water. For a milder buzz, Cao suggests drinking tea. “Green tea has less than half the caffeine of a cup of coffee but can also provide great health benefits from antioxidants,” she says. “Those who are pregnant should avoid caffeine, or at least limit their caffeine intake to less than 200 milligrams — about two cups of coffee per day. And for people who are more sensitive to caffeine, you still get a lot of these benefits with decaffeinated coffee, too!”

SERVES 2

½ tsp cayenne pepper

YOUR HEALTH TIPS When we think coffee, we think more: a faster heartbeat, a sharper mind, a pep in the step. But it turns out that coffee can also bring less of some things — like the risk of certain cancers, says Yin Cao, ScD, a Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center.

Coffee and Cocoa Roasted Chickpeas

PREPARATION 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Drain and rinse chickpeas. Place them between two paper towels and pat dry.

YIN CAO, ScD

Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

nondairy creamers can start to negate coffee’s health benefits. “Instead, go for milk, cocoa powder without added sugar, natural spices like cinnamon or a dash of vanilla extract,” Cao says.

3. In a small bowl, mix dried chickpeas with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt. Spread chickpeas out on a baking sheet lined with foil, lightly sprayed with olive oil. 4. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, tossing halfway through. 5. Add crispy chickpeas to a small bowl. Drizzle chickpeas with a dash of oil if too dry. 6. Add the cayenne pepper, cocoa powder and ground coffee. Toss to evenly coat. 233 calories, 3.7g fat, 39g carbs, 12g protein, 11g ﬁber / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

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healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

crash course

The shortest path from groggy to wide awake is ready-to-drink cold brew. Lucky for us, there’s no shortage of high-quality options in cans, bottles and even boxes in Missouri – one of these makers will even deliver straight to your doorstep.

The growler-packaged cold brew from Coma Coffee Roasters in Richmond Heights, Missouri, features a 70/30 blend of Colombian and Guatemalan coffee beans from various small farms. The nitrogeninfused cold brew is good with or without milk, but you’ll notice more of the caramel and orange peel notes and the blackberry acidity if you drink it straight. comacoffee.com

The 12-ounce cans of cold brew from Kansas City-based Messenger Coffee Co. boast summery illustrations that allude to the bright, sweet flavors – think honeysuckle, milk chocolate and peach – of the Ethiopian coffee beans inside. The cold brew is available at all Messenger cafés, plus other local spots. It's also available online at messengercoffee.co, so you can start sipping as soon as tomorrow.

Written by Lauren Quick / photography by robert grimm

Remedy, a cure-all cold brew from The Coffee Ethic in Springfield, Missouri, was originally born out of the pandemic. The innovation stuck, and Remedy is now available in individual bottles, 4-packs and 32-ounce growlers as well as on tap at the shop. The fruit-forward Colombian-Ethiopian blend is brewed for 12 hours, releasing notes of honey, orange and chocolate. thecoffeeethic.com

When it comes to cold brew from The Roasterie, you have choices, including Signature, Nitro, Chocolate Raspberry, CBD Infused and Decaf. The Kansas City mainstay cold-steeps its air-roasted coffee beans for 19 hours; made without additives and preservatives, the cold brew can’t be shipped, but you can grab a can from the brand's cafés. theroasterie.com

Kansas City-based Long Lost Cold Brew makes ready-to-drink cold brew even more accessible by delivering to area homes. Founder Jacq Adamson sources single-origin beans from local roaster Marcell Coffee, which she brews and packages in single-serve bottles or 3-liter bags in boxes with a tap. The signature cold brew is smooth and rich with a hint of nuttiness and a chocolatey finish. In the future, Adamson hopes to launch other flavors, such as lemonade and dark chocolate with ginger and orange, with the aim of bringing “a cocktail sensibility to cold brew.” longlostcoldbrew.com

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

SPRINGFIELD, MO

with Caleb Alwardt / owner, Green House Coffee + Affogato Bar

classic affogato

First-time visitors might want to start with a more classic affogato featuring vegan vanilla-coconut ice cream, a shot of espresso, caramel sauce and cacao nibs.

story and photography by Tessa Cooper

Imagine a space filled with natural light, decorated with houseplants and furnished with jewel-tone velvet couches and bubblegum pink tables topped with shots of espresso and scoops of ice cream. This is Green House Coffee + Affogato Bar in Springfield, Missouri. Created by Caleb Alwardt, the concept is part plant shop, part coffee shop, with a menu of traditional espresso drinks – made with coffee beans from Onyx Coffee Lab headquartered in Rogers, Arkansas – tea lattes and ice cream from Loblolly Creamery based in Little Rock, Arkansas. The individual offerings come together in customizable affogatos; customers simply choose the ice cream,

latte

A carefully crafted latte is a wonderful way to experience the quality and flavor of Onyx Coffee Lab beans.

pour, sauce and toppings, such as Onyx Coffee Lab cacao nibs, which offer crunch to the creamy concoction. Here, Alwardt chats about the inspiration and mission behind the shop. What sparked your interest in opening an affogato bar? I grew up when Starbucks was booming, and coffee culture became part of the zeitgeist. When it came time to look for a job during college, I just happened to get one as a barista and stuck with it. I’ve always wanted to open a shop, and in the beginning of 2021, I realized there was room for more inclusive coffee spaces in Springfield – so I just went for it. As for affogatos, it’s not like I have an affinity for ice cream; it was more [about] trying to find something that makes [Green House] special and unique. I thought it was a cool idea, and it’s not something we really have in Springfield. In your opinion, what is the key to a good affogato? More than anything, presentation matters. If it looks fun, it’s going to be fun. We scoured flea markets for a bunch of cool glass plates and teacups, and we serve [the affogatos] deconstructed for the most part. Why have you decided to prioritize livable wages and inclusivity for

the LGBTQ+ community? I was really inspired by Monarch Coffee in Kansas City – paying livable wages has been one of its big selling points. The team wants to create a place where baristas can be treated as professionals, and I always thought that just made sense. As for an inclusive space, that kind of came out of necessity. People need places to be themselves, and there aren’t a ton of those. What factors did you consider when selecting Onyx Coffee Lab and Loblolly Creamery as vendors? I’ve always enjoyed visiting Onyx. It’s currently one of the highest-rated coffee companies, and it also has name recognition. For Loblolly, we have a connection with [the creamery], which is partly why we chose it: Liz Niles, our manager, works there as a wholesale manager. Loblolly is also a very inclusive company. 431 S. Jefferson Ave., Suite 172, Springfield, Missouri, greenhousesgf.com

matcha affogato

The matcha-honey ice cream and matcha pour are a perfect match for fans of the green tea. Try mini marshmallows on top to complete the creation. / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

the mix

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Blending fragrant chai, espresso, vanilla and a dash of cinnamon, this signature drink at LaJoy's Coffee Cafe is the perfect way to warm up frigid February mornings. Written by Emily Wasserman / photography by sean locke

LaJoy Andrews-Dabney has always had a desire to give back to her community. When she spotted the vacant space that now houses LaJoy’s Coffee Cafe in Overland, Missouri, she could already see her vision coming to life: a family-oriented café where friends and neighbors could relax with a coffee drink in hand and kids could safely gather and do homework or hang out while enjoying hot chocolate, cookies or breakfast sandwiches. While the shop offers caffeinated classics, such as lattes, mochas, caramel macchiatos and cold brew, its signature beverage is LaJoy’s Dirty Chai made with chai and espresso. “It’s just sweet enough for those who aren’t big on coffee flavor but still need coffee,” Andrews-Dabney says. “My favorite part is the hint of cinnamon.” Served yearround, the Dirty Chai is available hot or iced with milk or milk alternatives, such as almond milk, based on each customer’s preference. If you stop by the café (which is approximately 15 miles northwest of Downtown St. Louis), treat yourself to a gooey butter Danish, as well. 8909 Lackland Road, Overland, Missouri, lajoyscoffeecafe.com

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 2 2

MYSTERY SHOPPER

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

crash course

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Bryndon and Collin Bay / owners-operators, First Crack Coffee How does the co-roasting facility work, and what resources does it provide? Our primary focus is on education and production. We train the customers who use our facility in all things coffee, specifically roasting. We have a 16-hour “Bean to Brew” course that examines quality intersections throughout the supply chain, and by the time participants are done, they can do whatever they want with the roasting program, depending on how deeply they want to engage. They can rent time on the equipment to roast their own coffee or we can roast their brand for them. –Collin Bay We also teach how to source raw coffee and participate in that buying process. We source things like retail bags for coffee, and we can group orders together to share shipping costs. Here, we have five roasters: a sample roaster and 1½-kilo, 5-kilo, 10-kilo and 20-kilo roasters. The facility also offers grinding and bagging for free. –Bryndon Bay Why is it important to you to help the local coffee community overcome industry challenges? A big part of the why is centered on lowering the barriers in coffee. If you look at the value chain, the people at the end are the ones who have it the worst – that could be a small producer, a smallbusiness owner or the individual barista. We tackle inequity in the value chain downstream by offering free education and transparently lowering costs. –C.B. Coffee roasting equipment is really expensive, and education is hard to come by. Cafés interested in roasting just don’t have the time or space for it – that’s how we came to do what we do. People get a second look at what they’re doing with coffee and finances; it can be transformative for a business. –B.B. What are some ways that area businesses have strengthened their brands with First Crack? Picasso’s Coffee in St. Charles, Missouri, is a great example. They’re one of our first customers that started with us back in January 2018; now, they have a team of roasting employees who come in weekly. It’s a perk of the job, and they know a lot more about coffee because of it. Cursed Bikes & Coffee in University City, Missouri, comes in, and the sale of coffee helps the shop through the winter. Exit 11 in Washington, Missouri, started with a café and a drive-thru; now, they have multiple drive-thrus, which blew up during the pandemic. Saving money with us allowed them to grow more aggressively. –B.B. Story and photography by Mabel Suen

At First Crack Coffee, brothers Bryndon and Collin Bay offer co-roasting facilities with coinciding classes and consulting services to help coffee-lovers get the best beans for their buck. The homegrown business launched in 2013 as a distributor of café equipment and wares; it has since evolved to include everything from cupping sessions to hands-on production with state-of-the-art gear. Its first roastery debuted in St. Louis in 2018, enabling many specialty coffee businesses to create their own custom roasts for the first time. The caffeine-fueled concept has since expanded to locations in Kansas City, Denver and Cleveland, leaving an immediate impact on local coffee communities along the way.

How would you describe St. Louis’ coffee culture? We have an awesome coffee scene in St. Louis, especially for the size of the city. There’s a lot of diversity in cafés and types of coffee we can get, from diner coffee to high-end, multiroaster specialty cafés. We’re really lucky. –B.B. I’ve been to almost 10,000 cafés since we started out, and the coffee scene here is legitimately good. Everyone has a different cup profile, and you can find them all here. I think one of the things I enjoy most about our business is that when access to education is given, the quality everywhere rises. The truth is, in a city like St. Louis, you can be in just about any part of town and get a great cup of coffee. –C.B. firstcrack.com / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

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What Is It?

Specifically designed for baking and cooking, espresso powder is a fine powder made from ground concentrated instant coffee crystals. Although you might see regular instant coffee in recipes, its flavor profile can be abrasive, and it often lacks the depth of espresso powder, which has a better-rounded hit. A word of warning: Don’t be fooled by the DIY recipes lurking on the internet; there’s more to espresso powder than toasting espresso beans and grinding them at home. What Do I Do With It?

Espresso powder is no one-trick pony, and we all need to stop treating it that way.

Espresso powder isn’t new, but it seems like most people only know it for its ability to amplify chocolate flavors in baked goods. While that’s definitely one of its strengths – a pinch of espresso powder works wonders on brownies, chocolate frosting and the ribbons of chocolate in babka and coffee cake – there are so many more applications. Try adding a few teaspoons to your next meat rub, glaze or barbecue sauce; the result will be less overt coffee flavor and more richness and complexity in the finished dish. When experimenting with espresso powder in savory dishes, pair it with some sweetness and a little heat to hit all the right spots and keep things balanced. Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

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Last call for winter roots! This time of year can be dreary, so spice them up with an espresso-chipotle glaze, which delivers notes of bitter coffee and sweet heat. If you like more char on your vegetables, broil them on the top rack of the oven for a minute or two after the allotted cooking time, watching carefully to make sure they don’t burn.

Your Delicious Wedding Moment BEGINS WITH US

Root Vegetables with Espresso-Chipotle Glaze Serves 6 to 8 ¼ ¼ 3 2 2 1 1½ 1½ to 2 1½ to 2 1½ 1 1

cup, plus 2 Tbsp, olive oil, divided cup honey Tbsp apple cider vinegar small chipotle peppers (from a 7-oz can of chipotles in adobo sauce) Tbsp adobo sauce (from can of chipotles) clove garlic, roughly chopped tsp espresso powder lb butternut squash lb rutabaga lbs celeriac lb turnips lb sweet potatoes kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation / Add ¼ cup oil, honey, apple cider vinegar, chipotle peppers, adobo sauce, garlic and espresso powder to a blender or food processor; purée until smooth. Set aside. Preheat oven to 400°F. Brush two lipped sheet pans with 1 Tbsp oil each. Peel vegetables and cut them into 1-inch cubes; add to a large mixing bowl. Pour glaze over vegetables and toss until they’re completely coated. Divide between prepared sheet pans, spreading out in a single layer. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast, 45 minutes, tossing and switching racks at the halfway mark so that vegetables roast evenly. Remove from oven and transfer to a large serving bowl; serve immediately.

From Elegant to Casual, Buffet to BBQ Kenrick’s is priced to fit your needs, with the service that you deserve.

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Pastelitos Andinos with Potato and Queso Fresco

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Winter evokes nostalgia for the mountainous region of Venezuela where I grew up, so I recreate the flavors from there as often as I can. Pastelitos andinos are hot pockets of crunchy fried dough balanced by smooth, savory filling, and I have vivid memories of enjoying them with café con leche as a child. This version features potato, green onion and queso fresco, plus a drizzle of garlic-cilantro sauce. Paired with a cup of creamy coffee, they’re sublime. Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by ben nickelson

Yields 12 pastelitos andinos Dough 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for frying 1 Tbsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp brown sugar 1 cup water Filling 2 cups plain potato purée 1 lb queso fresco, shredded 4 green onions, sliced 1 tsp kosher salt Garlic-Cilantro Sauce 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 habanero pepper, trimmed and seeded, optional ½ cup fresh cilantro, stems and leaves ½ cup mayonnaise 2 limes, juiced 1 tsp salt / preparation – dough / In the bowl of a stand mixer, add all ingredients; mix with your hands until a shaggy dough forms. Using the dough hook, knead dough until it’s smooth and elastic, approximately 10 minutes. Transfer dough to a clean bowl dusted with flour; loosely cover with a clean cloth or plastic wrap and let rest, at least 30 minutes. / preparation – filling / In a medium bowl, mix all ingredients. Set aside. / preparation – sauce / In a blender or a food processor, add all ingredients; blend until a smooth sauce has formed. Transfer to a small serving bowl; set aside. / preparation – assembly / Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Cut dough into four equal parts. Flatten each piece into a narrow rectangle; using a rolling pin, roll out lengthwise into ¹⁄₈-inch-thick sheets. Alternatively, you can use a pasta maker to make four ¹⁄₈-inch-thick sheets. Working with one sheet at a time, add a 2-tablespoon mound of filling 1 inch from the short edge; add another mound 1 inch from the first and so on until you reach the opposite end of the sheet. Top with another sheet; using your fingertips, press the dough to create a seal around each mound, trying to leave as little air in each pocket as possible. Using a round cookie cutter, cut out pastelitos. Using a fork, press the edges of each to seal securely. Repeat process with remaining dough and filling (you may end up with enough for more than 12 pastelitos). In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 cups vegetable oil. Once oil is hot, add three to four pastelitos (be careful to not overcrowd pot); fry until dough is golden brown. Transfer pastelitos to a bowl lined with paper towels. Repeat process until all pastelitos are fried. Serve hot with garlic-cilantro sauce.

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

kansas city

with Holly Bastin / founder, Roast Ratings

and

Coffee is People

Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

When Holly Bastin made her first cup of coffee at the age of 12, she was disappointed to discover that it didn’t taste the way it smelled. Twenty years and innumerable cups later, she’s fallen in love with both the flavor of coffee and the people who make it, as is evidenced by her work in the coffee industry. Bastin runs Roast Ratings, a monthly coffee ratings website, where she tastes and rates coffee beans from around the world as a way to help the average consumer appreciate and understand the brews in their cups. Her second company, Coffee is People, trains and mentors baristas at the beginning of their careers as well as experienced baristas who want to test their knowledge and skills against their peers’ at competitions. Participating in national and international barista competitions since 2002, Bastin herself has transitioned from competitor to judge to coach and has coached three world champions from two different competitions.

Tell us more about Roast Ratings. After [former Kansas City barista] Pete Licata won the 2013 World Barista Competition, we started talking more about specialty coffee and its place in the world. We both worked for specialty coffee roasters in the past, and we knew what an amazing cup of coffee should taste like, but we realized that for most people, coffee is just coffee. Roast Ratings launched in 2015 to help people find a great cup of coffee; we do that by tasting a lot of coffee and writing educational articles to demystify it for those not in the business. Because coffee professionals live and breathe coffee, they tend to lose touch with the everyday reality of how most people perceive and experience coffee. How do you rate each coffee? In our scale, we rate both balance and sweetness – sweetness is king in the U.S. We rate all kinds of coffee, including what you get from the grocery store.

Anyone can send us coffee to rate, and then we do a monthly rating on our website that’s meant to be a guide for people to find a coffee they might enjoy. Most recently, we’ve been doing decaf coffees, which has been really interesting for us. We make all the coffee we rate in a Bonavita 1900TS coffee maker, which costs approximately $150 and can be found at any local retailer; we want to brew the coffees that we’re rating using the same equipment as someone who’s into drinking good coffee at home. How has the pandemic impacted your work? Coffee competitions have been put on pause, so I’ve had to put barista coaching on the back burner for now. However, in doing so, I’ve found that what I really enjoy is working with people who are just starting out in coffee, so I’ve been doing more consulting with Coffee is People, providing staff education and barista training for restaurants and coffee shops. Before

the pandemic, I was also invited to work as a mentor for Glitter Cat Barista Bootcamp, a nonprofit that’s reimagining the coffee industry by providing more equitable training for those wanting to compete in barista competitions to help further their careers but [who] might lack the access, skills or money to participate.

I usually help coach our competitors on the milk beverage course – at barista competitions, you must make an espresso drink, a straight shot, a milk drink and a signature beverage. It’s all about the coffee, but your scores are based on the accuracy of your coffee tasting and how well you describe each coffee drink while you’re making it.

Equal access to coffee seems to be a common thread in your career. Yes, I think it’s important for an industry centered on something as universal as coffee to be built with diversity and inclusion in mind. When I went to the World Barista Championship, there were more than 60 countries involved, and I noticed that the countries that advanced to finals came from places with more resources. When I was coaching for these competitions, I could only focus on helping 12 or so people a year; now, I can reach hundreds of people with online classes through Glitter Cat. At its virtual boot camps,

What role does coffee play in our culture? Where there is coffee, there is revolution, because by its very nature, coffee is the beverage of stimulation. Coffee shops should be places where people are encouraged to hang out, socialize, talk, think, laugh and debate. I’m starting to see sofas and overstuffed armchairs again in coffee shops, and that gives me hope for the future of coffee and its part in revolutionary thinking. Roast Ratings, roastratings.com Coffee is People, coffeeispeople.com / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

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In this class, we’ll explore different Vietnamese flavors and dishes, from warming soups to classic sandwiches.

Vietnamese-Inspired Coffee Cupcakes Traditionally brewed with a phin (a stainless steel coffee filter) and made with condensed milk, Vietnamese coffee has a distinctive flavor that’s strong, rich and sweet. This recipe takes the flavor profile of the sought-after beverage and turns it into a delightful treat. The cupcakes feature caramelized cake with intense notes of coffee and a drizzle of sauce that combines sweetened condensed milk and more coffee. Written by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 3pm on Sat., Feb. 19 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school or call 314.909.1704

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Yields 12 cupcakes Vietnamese-Inspired Coffee Cupcakes 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup whole-wheat flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp ground cardamom 3 Tbsp finely ground instant coffee 1¼ cups Greek yogurt ½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract 2 eggs Sauce 1 14-oz can sweetened condensed milk 3 Tbsp strongly brewed coffee 1 Tbsp unsalted butter

/ preparation – vietnamese-inspired coffee cupcakes / Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a 12-cup cupcake pan with paper liners; set aside. In a medium bowl, sift together flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom. In a separate bowl, combine coffee grounds and Greek yogurt.

MAKE THE MEAL ○ Bánh Mì ○ Beef Pho ○ Shrimp Summer Rolls ○ Vietnamese-Inspired Coffee Cupcakes

In a large bowl, add butter and sugars; using a hand mixer, cream until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add vanilla extract and then eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture; mix until just combined. Add half of the yogurt mixture to the butter mixture; mix until just combined. Add remaining flour mixture to the butter mixture; mix until just combined. Add remaining yogurt mixture to the butter mixture; mix until just combined. Fill each cupcake cavity with batter until ¾ full. Bake cupcakes, 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. / preparation – sauce / In a saucepan, add all ingredients. Set over medium-low heat; stirring constantly, cook until sauce has thickened. / to serve / Serve warm cupcakes with sauce poured over top.

pro picks /

KANSAS CITY

with Christopher Oppenhuis founder, Marcell Coffee

t Christopher Oppenhuis runs on coffee. After moving from Chicago to Kansas City, he developed the roasting

operation at Second Best Coffee and served as director of coffee at Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters for almost six years. In 2019, he launched Marcell Coffee to supply custom blended, roasted and packaged beans to his Roasting Club wholesale members. Next year, Oppenhuis will expand on his existing roasting space by adding a custom roaster, espresso laboratory and training station for wholesale partners. OLEO, his direct-to-consumer brand also in the works, will feature coffees conditioned in spirit barrels and other collaborations. Here, the coffee connoisseur names three of his favorite local coffee shops and what he drinks at each. –Pete Dulin photo by zach bauman

Mildred’s “I love supporting local family businesses, especially one with a strong focus on serving its community. At Mildred’s, I always get an espresso because it’s some of the most dialed-in in the city. By the time I finish that, my standard breakfast sandwich is ready at the counter.”

Heirloom Bakery & Hearth “I love the vibe and the quality of this Brookside bakery, which is also family-owned and -operated. We run the espresso program while Thou Mayest holds down the drip coffee. I always grab a tahini cookie at this spot – if you know, you know – and usually a drip coffee to-go.”

Blip Roasters “Blip Roasters is the best example of how a brand is more than just the products it serves. Its dedication to community is second to none, and it’s one of the city’s best ‘third places.’ I get something sweeter like mocha or cascara on tap since I’m usually here later in the day for a meeting or a hang after I’ve had my morning brew.”

CAFES:LEARNTOROAST COFFEEFORFREE HALVEYOURCOST* STL, KC and beyond. Home Roasters: ask us about courses, equipment and green! *Email us for details

@owntheroast • info@firstcrack.com • 314-394-0975 • www.firstcrack.com STL: 2204 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, MO 63110 KC: 3634A Main St., Kansas City, MO 64111

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A Guide to Brewing Your Perfect Cup of Coffee

mSome days, there’s nothing better than your first sip of coffee,

which is why it’s essential to learn the science behind brewing the perfect cup. Nail it once and you won’t accept mediocre ever again. Simply put, coffee extraction is the process of dissolving ground coffee in hot water. The level of roast, the ratio of water to coffee, the size of the grind, the temperature of the water and the amount of time that the water is in contact with the coffee are all variables of coffee extraction, however, and they all affect the flavor of your brew. Before we dig into the details, it’s essential to start with coffee that you enjoy. Missouri has umpteen coffee roasters, making it easy – or difficult, depending on your perspective – to find fresh, high-quality beans with your favorite flavor profile. -Rachel Huffman 22

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Light roasts are denser, so they’re more difficult to extract. Play around with hotter water, longer brew times or more agitation to pull the sweetness from those coffees. Dark roasts give up their solubles more easily, so they don’t require as much extraction. As they’re more porous, you might use a little less coffee or decrease the water temperature to achieve a balanced cup. Visit feastmagazine.com to read about five off-the-beaten-path Missouri coffee roasters and their carefully crafted offerings.

Proportion Once you’ve acquired some great beans,

Most coffee connoisseurs agree that a

including an AeroPress. A coarser

blade grinder – which uses a propeller-

grind, on the other hand, works well for

like blade similar to a blender – won’t get

immersion methods, where the coffee

the job done. The main reason is that it

and the water are sitting together, such

chops the coffee into too many different

as a French press.

you need to know how much coffee to

Time to take those coffee beans and turn

particle sizes – from large chunks to dust

use. Proportion is somewhat subjective,

them into coffee grounds. “A grinder is

– and the water then extracts the flavor

“For me, a grind that’s too fine for a brew

but the recommended range is a 1:15 to

the most important piece of equipment

compounds and caffeine at different

method gives my coffee more acidity;

1:18 coffee-to-water ratio if you’re hand-

to invest in – even a $100 burr grinder,

rates. As long as the coffee grounds

it’s sour up front, and it’s dense, like that

brewing a single cup.

in my opinion, is more important than

are homogenous, what constitutes the

coffee is punching me in the tongue,”

an expensive brewing mechanism,” says

“right grind” is based on your taste buds

Blackman says. “A grind that’s too coarse

“For a lighter roast, you typically want to

Dave Elman, owner of Fretboard Coffee

as well as your preferred brew method.

for a brew method gives me the opposite

use a 1:15 ratio, and if the roast is deeper,

in Columbia, Missouri. “If you’re starting

As a general rule, the finer the grind, the

– under-extracted coffee – which, for me,

you would move up to 1:17 or 1:18,” explains

with a good coffee and you’re not getting

faster the extraction; so a finer grind is

presents as a watery, thin cup of coffee

Mike Archibald, roaster and owner of

good results, it’s probably your grinder.”

typically used for quicker brew methods,

that leaves a dry, astringent aftertaste.

Yippee Cafe in Lawrence, Kansas. Roasting straightens the cells of coffee beans, making them less dense and much more soluble. “So, for a lighter roast, you need less water for coffee extraction,” Archibald says. “For a deeper roast, which is more soluble, you need more water so that it doesn’t taste as intense. I should keep this as secret as my social security number, but my single-cup magic is 22 grams of coffee to 330 grams of water.”

“All coffees have different densities depending on where they’re grown and how they’re roasted, meaning a tablespoon of one coffee will have a totally different weight than a tablespoon of another. So I don’t think volume is the best measurement – but if you’re making coffee at home and you have a measurer that you like and you know you like the strength of it, cool; you’re the one drinking it. That said, I recommend buying a scale. If you’re hand-brewing, a scale is super helpful in order to measure your coffee – you can also use it to bake, and it will make you a more consistent baker.” –Kate Blackman, coffee competition coach

water Water temperature also has a range, but a good starting point is 200°F if you’re using a kettle for a manual brew. You can simply bring the water to a boil (212°F) and then let it cool for a minute. If you’re using an automatic brewer, the machine matters. “The heating element of most inexpensive automatic brewers isn’t powerful enough to get the water hot enough to properly brew your coffee,” Blackman says. “You’re lucky if a brand-new, cheapo drip brewer gets to 180°F.” So do your research before you make a purchase.

At this point, if you’re using a drip brewer, you’re finished. You’ve figured out the strength, or proportion, you’ve invested in a good grinder (and mastered the perfect grind for your preferences) and you’ve found a machine that can brew your coffee. If you want to take another route, it really depends on which device you like. “I stick with the French press for my daily cup, but there’s really no right or wrong way,” Elman says. “That’s the fun part about coffee.”

other brew methods to explore:

AeroPress The AeroPress works without electricity, producing a drink that’s somewhere between espresso and more conventional coffee. You use hand pressure to force the water through the coffee grounds within a plastic chamber, which has two advantages: speed and efficiency.

Coffee Cone or Chemex These gizmos rest on top of a decanter, call for a paper filter and create cleaner, livelier cups of coffee. They also give you more control over variables so that you can pull different flavors out of different varietals of coffee.

French Press Appealingly lowmaintenance and consistent, a French press makes a full-bodied, heavily textured cup of coffee. The immersion method, plus the fact that it doesn’t use a paper filter, means a lot of the oils and solids are suspended in the coffee when you drink it.

Syphon (or Vacuum) Pot Featuring two chambers of glass and an open flame from a butane burner, syphon pots look really impressive. They’re similar to a percolator, but there isn’t a risk of overextraction because they only percolate once. / f e br u a ry 2 02 2

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and

Written by Kasey Carlson, Tessa Cooper and Jessica Vaughn Martin

Looking to expand your coffee horizons? The origins of dalgona coffee are a little muddled – it may have originated in India or Macau, and gained serious popularity recently in South Korea – but Tiny Chef chef-owner Melanie Meyer found out about the coffee preparation just like many of us did amid the pandemic: TikTok. The drink, which shares the name “dalgona” with a Korean candy made with sugar and baking soda, is made by whipping equal parts instant coffee, sugar and boiling water until it reaches a thick and creamy consistency. It’s then served dolloped on a cold glass of milk of your choice. “It’s almost like a coffee marshmallow,”

These eight signature drinks offer a taste of specialty coffee culture across the globe.

Korean Coffee: Dalgona Coffee

Meyer says. But don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s just a sweet treat – the concentrated coffee packs a serious punch. “It’s incredibly good, incredibly rich and also incredibly potent,” she says. While Meyer doesn’t serve the drink at her St. Louis restaurant – few in the area serve it at all – it’s surprisingly simple to make at home. For the best texture, Meyer recommends making the dalgona whip in a stand mixer, but you can also grab a wire whisk and prepare for an upper-body workout. It’ll be worth the effort when you take that first sip. –K.C.

photo by sean locke

/ f e br u a ry 2 02 2

Greek Coffee: Nescaf� Frapp� Available at Greek Belly in Springfield, Missouri The creation of the Nescafé frappé was

Vietnamese Coffee Available at Café Cà Phê in kansas city

a happy accident. The origin story begins in 1957 at the Thessaloniki International Fair in Greece, where a representative of Nestlé was exhibiting a new chocolate beverage for children made by shaking the beverage in a hand shaker. During a break, a manager was craving his regular Nescafé Classic hot coffee, but he couldn’t find any hot water. In a thrifty move, he mixed the coffee with cold water in a shaker, and the frappé was born. Today, the cold, frothy and caffeine-packed drink is a hallmark of Greek outdoor café culture. At Greek Belly in Springfield, Missouri, you can order a Greek frappé made with Nescafé imported from Greece, which is less

One tool and one ingredient

bitter than the variety sold stateside.

give Vietnamese iced coffee an

“Take your time when drinking [our] Greek

inimitable, viscous texture and

Nescafé frappé,” Greek Belly owner

strong, balanced flavor: the phin

John Tsahiridis says. “They are strong.

filter and condensed milk. A

The foam has a lot of caffeine, so keep

traditional Vietnamese brewing

stirring. Stir, sip, enjoy, repeat.” You can

gadget, a phin filter is a cross

also order the imported Greek Nescafé served hot. –T.C.

between a pour over and a French

photo by brandon alms

press; with three layers, it slows

Achieving the golden ratio of ingredients in a greek FrappÉ takes practice and technique, but the only tool required is a hand shaker or hand mixer.

down the brewing process to let the grounds linger and flavors become bolder. Condensed milk is also notoriously thicker and creamier

Mexican Coffee: Caf� de Olla Available at Café Ollama in kansas city

Equal parts beautiful and flavorful, Café de Olla is a traditional Mexican coffee drink said to have been created by the Adelitas, the women warriors of the Mexican Revolution. The beverage is brewed in an olla de barro (clay pot), and an added concoction of piloncillo, cinnamon and various spices permeate the brew, giving it a distinctly sweet and woody flavor. Today, it’s typically made in rural areas of Mexico; at Café Ollama in Kansas City, you’ll find it served both hot and cold-brew style (with an option to add salted sweet foam). “The reason for it being brewed in the olla is that the clay gives it those earthy flavors,” owner Lesley Reyes says. “We brew the batches fresh every single morning to make sure it’s the same quality taste. Our cinnamon and piloncillo come straight from Mexico, hand-picked by us every time we go down.” Reyes and her team draw inspiration from the flavors of their heritage, with drinks named after their relatives. “Latin American countries currently produce most of the coffee consumed worldwide,” she says. “It’s a staple for Latinos. We want to proudly show off the bean with all the flavors and inspirations of Latin America. We hope that people will step out of their comfort zones to try something different and traditional made with love and pride.” –T.C. photo by zach bauman

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than whole milk, and its usage first came out of necessity. “When the French colonized Vietnam, a lot of their cuisine was mixed into Vietnamese [cuisine],” says Jackie Nguyen, owner of Café Cà Phê in Kansas City. “This style of brewing [with a phin filter] came from the French, and fresh milk was not available during war times, thus the introduction of condensed milk. The Vietnamese adopted this style and kept it.” At Café Cà Phê, you can get a taste of traditional Vietnamese coffee with The Saigon, named for Nguyen’s mother’s hometown in Vietnam (now known as Ho Chi Minh City). Café Cà Phê also sources Vietnamese Robusta beans, which have a dark, nutty flavor with a hint of grapefruit – plus double the caffeine – straight from the farm. –T.C.

photo by pilsen photo co-op

Turkish coffee uses grounds that are even finer than those used for espresso, which is key to the unfiltered drink – it’s often served with something sweet, such as Turkish delight

Thai Coffee

or chocolate, to offset the bitter grounds at the inevitable end of your cup.

Available at Chao Baan in st. louis Iced, spiced and sweetened with condensed milk, Thai coffee has quickly gained popularity stateside. In Thailand, however, the drink is a surprisingly new tradition. The country has been cultivating coffee for a little less than a century, primarily focusing on Robusta beans, a highly caffeinated, stronger-tasting variety as compared to Arabica. Chao Baan co-owner Shayn Prapaisilp says Thais usually prefer Oliang-style coffee, which refers to iced black coffee sans condensed milk, brewed with cardamom and other spices. The cold drink pairs well with the country’s muggy climate, and the spices add a trademark flavor – one that was essential during the 1940s when coffee was rationed and beans were blended with corn, soybeans, rice and sesame seeds to make the grind go further. At his restaurant in St. Louis, Prapaisilp serves Thai coffee over ice, blended with sweetened condensed milk (a

Turkish Coffee Available at Clay & Fire in Kansas City When it comes to Turkish coffee, there is a lot of debate – sometimes even within households – about the best way to prepare it. At Kansas City’s Clay & Fire, the team sticks to traditional methods. Despite the name, general manager Savannah Bennett likens Turkish coffee more to espresso because of its strength and flavor. The grounds are mixed with water inside a cezve (a small coffee pot also known as an ibrik) before the cezve is heated in hot sand, which Clay & Fire keeps in a cast-iron pan, for about 10 minutes until fully brewed. “It has a beautiful flavor. I love the flavor of it,” Bennett says. “There is a nice little zing to it.” The restaurant serves its Turkish coffee black so guests can best experience all the nuanced flavors, but you can also ask for cream or milk on the side. –K.C.

trait shared with Vietnamese coffee) along with a splash of evaporated milk – a signature Chao Baan touch. The beans hail from the restaurant’s sister store Global Foods Market in Kirkwood, Missouri; sourced directly from Thailand, they’re sold already ground and blended with the Oliang spice mix. Prapaisilp shares that guests are often surprised when they try coffee at Chao Baan because the focus is usually on the regional Thai fare and traditional beverages are often an afterthought. After one sip, though, Chao Baan might become your first thought when a Thai coffee craving calls. –J.V.M.

photo by sean locke

photo by pilsen photo co-op

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an ethiopian coffee ceremony involves a bit of snacking; when the coffee is finished roasting, the pan is filled with corn kernels that pop and puff up into handfuls of white popcorn to accompany the beverages.

greek coffee

Greek Belly 320 E. Walnut St., Springfield, Missouri, greekbelly.com

vietnamese coffee

Café Cà Phê 1101 Mulberry St., Kansas City, Missouri, cafecaphe.com

mexican coffee

Ethiopian Coffee Available at Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar in Kansas City

Cuban Coffee

Available at Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe in Columbia, Missouri

In the town of Sagua La Grande, Cuba, where Katy Ugalde spent her childhood, coffee is served at all hours of the day and to all members of the family – she recalls her grandfather offering sips from his cup when she was just a girl. Its history spans generations before, of course: The coffee industry sprouted on the island in the late 1790s, fueled by an influx of French farmers fleeing the Haitian Revolution. Today, the warm beverage is offered to guests who pop by for a visit – a meaningful token of hospitality when there is not much else to give, she says. Ugalde, who now owns Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe in Columbia, Missouri, with her husband, Greg Butler, says it’s the beans that make for the distinct, strong flavor of Cuban coffee. Grown high in the mountains of the island, the coffee cherries are usually picked by hand before being dried, roasted and then finely ground. Ugalde uses a moka pot to brew coffee to order at her restaurant, making one flavorful, espresso-strength cup at a time. Although it’s traditionally served with brown sugar, whipped until a thin foam forms atop the dark sea of caffeine, Ugalde leaves the sweetening up to her customers, who often drink it unsweetened or with a packet of white sugar. –J.V.M. photo by lisa krantz

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The countries of Ethiopia and Eritrea share many cultural traditions, including one of the most important culinary symbols: coffee. For these cultures, coffee is more than just a caffeine boost; it’s an event. At Kansas City’s

Café Ollama 523 Southwest Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/Ollamakc

turkish coffee

Clay & Fire 815 W. 17th St., Kansas City, Missouri, clayandfirekc.com

Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar, you can experience a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony led by co-owner Mehret Tesfamariam, who hails from Eritrea. As it is here, Ethiopian and Eritrean coffee ceremonies are exclusively female-led and take place in a group setting, with everyone seated close to the earth; it’s a chance for friends and neighbors to visit over several rounds

thai coffee

Chao Baan 4087 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, chaobaanstl.com

of sipping. At the start, the host brews each espressosize cup with freshly roasted beans and then steeps them over and over until just a hint of flavor remains.

ethiopian coffee

No sweetener or cream is involved; cups are served

Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar 3601 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, mesobkc.com

black, strong and steaming. At Mesob, the ceremony usually consists of four rounds: The first two produce a drink with strength akin to espresso, and the strength diminishes from there while the conversation livens. The ceremony also involves a bit of snacking; when the coffee is finished roasting, the pan is filled with corn kernels that pop and puff up into handfuls of white popcorn to accompany the beverages. Because of the length of the ceremony, reservations must be made at least a week in advance, but you can get a cup of Ethiopian coffee with your meal at Mesob any day – ceremony not included. –J.V.M.

photo by pilsen photo co-op

cuban coffee

Sagua La Grande Cuban Cafe 114 S. Ninth St., #101, Columbia, Missouri, sagualagrandecomo.com

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