March 2021 Feast Magazine

InspIREd L0cal FoOd CultUre

/

midwest

march 2021

We accept EBT

MEATS & CATERING Prepared Food

Shop online at

KenricKS.com

Looking For That Fish Fry? CARRY OUT From our Covid Safe Environment To Continue Your Fish Fry Tradition In The Comfort Of Your Home!

BIG Bob's "Belly Buster"Cod Meal $8.99 Meal Includes 2 Sides & Bread

A South St. Louis Favorite!

8 oz.

Jack Salmon Meal

Includes 2 Sides & Bread

$7.99

Atlantic Hand Breaded Boneless Cod Fillets Half Pound Meal $9.99 Includes 2 Sides & Bread

New England Clam Chowder or Creamy Lobster Bisque Cup ... $3.29

12 Oz. Bowl ... $3.99

Home Cooked Southern Style Side Dishes

Hush Puppies (5) • French Fries • Mustard Potato Salad Creamy Cole Slaw • Seasoned Green Beans Spaghetti & Red Sauce • Mac & Cheese *Additional sides may be purchased for $1.49 each

"Why Crab, When the FISH is that GOOD!"

Southern Louisiana Style Breaded Boneless Catfish Nuggets Half Pound Meal $7.99 Includes 2 Sides & Bread

Large Breaded-Deep Fried Gulf Shrimp

8 Piece Shrimp Meal $7.99 Includes 2 Sides & Bread *Add more Shrimp for .69¢ Each

4324 Weber Rd • St. Louis, MO 63123 314-631-2440 • Fax 314-631-6452 4

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

5

Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

march

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 3 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen Springfield Contributing Editor

Tessa Cooper Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Jordan Baranowski, Julia Calleo, Amanda Elliott, Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Burk Krohe, Darrell Loo, Liz Miller, Claire Porter, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Shannon Weber

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

Contact Us Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

/ 11 / dine & Drink / 24 / healthy appetite

Goat & Rabbit, Mundos Latin Coconut Custard with Kitchen and Bar, Pizzeria da Gloria, Ms. Kim’s Fish & Chicken Shack

ART Art Director

/ 13 / One on One

Jesse Garcia of The Social Room

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Brandon Alms, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Gregg Goldman, Stuart Heidmann, Anne Mauldin, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Kim Wade, Cheryl Waller

/ 14 / on trend

Walk-Up Windows / 16 / one ingredient 3 ways

Artichokes

Contributing Illustrator

/ 18 / the mix

Michelada

Rebecca Rehagen with Rebecca Lynn Illustration Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

cover illustration by Rebecca Rehagen table of contents Kelsey Earl, beverage director of Goat & Rabbit in Kansas City, by Anna Petrow

6

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

/ 19 / ONE ON ONE

Richard Nix Jr. of

Butler’s Pantry

/ 20 / shop Here

Golden Grocer / 21 / midwest made

Charcuterie / 22 / mystery shopper

Mustard Oil

Blueberry-Saffron Syrup

/ 25 / ONE ON ONE

James Bates of

KnockKnock, KC

/ 26 / quick fix

Peas, Prosciutto

& Parmesan

/ 27 / culinary library

Kim Bond of Gooseberries / 29 / ONE ON ONE

Sergio Chierego of Casa Don Alfonso

/ 30 / sugar rush

Sourdough Waffles

34

what's next?

Local restaurant professionals explore how we can not only save but strengthen the industry.

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

7

Letter

from the

Publisher

“

The pandemic has highlighted how fragile restaurants already were, and now they’re even more fragile.

I don’t know what the right answer is but I don’t think going back to business as usual is going to cut it.”

Craft breweries, small wineries and artisan distilleries count on critical sales at neighborhood watering holes. Linen companies and cleaning services also depend on restaurants to drive revenue. The independent restaurant industry casts a wide net, and tens of thousands of people have been tangled up in the impact of COVID-19.

If you don’t read anything else in this issue, just know that this quote from Springfield chef and restaurant owner Drake Tillman encapsulates the massive impact that the pandemic has had on the independent restaurant industry here in our region, as well as across the country.

We are sitting on a knife edge. This is truly an inflection point for an industry that is one of the largest employers in the country. And beyond the cooks, servers, bartenders and dishwashers who show up to work each day, restaurants impact a range of people who don't have anything to do with dayto-day operations. Farmers and makers rely on wholesale orders from chefs.

8

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

PHOTO by brett crow, captiva studios

The good news is that this industry is full of doers, people who are change-makers and entrepreneurs.

Almost a year into the pandemic, My series of spring-inspired recipes goes live on feastmagazine.com this month. the culinary industry is not standing First up is manicotti stuffed with ricotta and a rustic hand-chopped pesto that idly by. People are working to makes the most of the season’s tender herbs.

Operating a restaurant is notoriously take control of the situation and difficult. According to some national estimates, prior to 2020, the average use this crisis as an opportunity to move the industry in a more sustainable, lifespan of a restaurant was approximately five years, with up to 90 percent equitable and, ultimately, successful direction. While the future still remains closing their doors within the first year. During the pandemic, restaurants have uncertain, most everyone agrees that there is no going back to the way things been forced to operate at diminished capacity and take on additional expenses were. Turn to page 34 to hear directly from some of the region’s top restaurant to accommodate safety protocols – previously unnecessary items such as PPE professionals who are leading the charge today to create the industry’s and outdoor tents to keep people warm and separate during the winter season tomorrow. were never part of the business plan. Add to that the fact that the majority of restaurant workers lack health insurance and typically don’t make a living wage on top of issues related to equity and tipping, and it’s safe to say that the Until next time, industry is in crisis mode.

A culinary hub for innovation is coming to St. Louis and SLU students are playing a big part

BY AUBREY BYRON

In a unique academic-industry partnership, Saint Louis University (SLU) nutrition and dietetics students will soon have the opportunity to rub elbows with industry professionals, food scientists and chefs at the forefront of culinary advancement thanks to a partnership with Deli Star, an industry leader in protein manufacturing and culinary innovation. The company’s Food Discovery Center (FDC) – opening this spring inside City Foundry STL near SLU’s campus – will serve as a hub for innovation, food science and product research and development.

Beginning July 2021, SLU students and faculty in the Department of Nutrition and Dietetics will have access to the FDC for labs, coursework and mentoring and will gain hands-on experience with the product development process, commercialization and food nutrition.

The center will include stateof-the-art equipment, product development centers, lecture and classroom space, as well as large kitchen suites, some dedicated for ghost kitchens. (The term refers to the popular new restaurant format where chefs develop pickup- and delivery-only concepts without incurring the expense of dine-in or full-service – an especially appealing prospect amid COVID restrictions.) The space will also allow the local

industry leaders to interact with students and food scientists working on development alike.

“Students will have access to handson discovery work,” says Charles Hayes, vice president of culinary innovation at Deli Star.

This opportunity to gain tangible experience, network among professionals and explore the latest in food research is a rare one. “What’s really exciting is we can offer an experience [students] can’t get anywhere else,” says Rabia Rahman, dietetic internship director at SLU. “There isn’t really anything else like it.”

Students can turn their passion for nutrition and cooking into a career by earning their credentials as a registered dietitian with culinary expertise. Students serve hundreds of meals daily out of Fresh Gatherings Cafe, operate an urban teaching garden and even launched an on-campus food pantry. The Food Discovery Lab is a natural extension of the program’s real-world learning approach.

Dining Room Open!

Upscale casual farm-to-table restaurant, serving craft cocktails, local beers, and an extensive wine and bourbon list!

www.clevelandheath.com • 618-307-4830 106 North Main Street - Edwardsville, IL 62025

“This allows students to use that food-as-medicine approach and to use their skills to bring that to fruition,” says Rahman.

Visit slu.edu/doisy for details. / ma r c h 2 02 1

9

PROMOTION

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

HEADING INTO SPRING WITH A FRESH OUTLOOK ON FISH

MUSSELS WITH LEMON FENNEL RISOTTO

Rounding the corner on a year living with pandemic restrictions we’ve learned a lot

2 Tbsp olive oil

1½ cups arborio rice

and adapted to new habits. We’ve prioritized our health by including foods to build

1 small onion, chopped

1 bay leaf

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 cups chicken broth

4 green onions, chopped

Zest and juice from 2 lemons

1 fennel bulb with fronds

2 pounds PEI mussels, cleaned

up our immune system, comfort and feed our souls and expand our kitchen skills by preparing meals at home. Creating fresh fish and seafood recipes can check all of these boxes for me. Unable to experience seafood from restaurants, I explored new dishes that once intimidated me, like mussels in this month’s recipe, only to find it isn’t as hard as it looks. If you are in need of some inspiration or fresh recipes to make seafood, pick up a copy of this month’s Simply Schnucks magazine. Filled with over 30 seafood recipes, tips and tricks it will give you the confidence to create restaurant-quality seafood in your home kitchen.

Eating seafood was not a regular part of our family’s meal routine growing up (unless you count canned tuna salad on crackers). My parents both love to eat seafood and would regularly order it out at restaurants, but cooking it at home was a rare occurrence. I’m not sure if it was the intimidation factor, having too many picky eaters in the house or simply not knowing how to prepare it, seafood didn’t often make it on our dinner table.

It wasn’t until I was out on my own that I started to branch out into the world of seafood. Realizing the depth and variety of options opened so many possibilities to include fish and seafood in my diet—not to mention all the health benefits that come along with it. A lean protein filled with healthy fats, vitamins and minerals, regular seafood consumption is encouraged for a well-balanced diet. Boasting benefits for heart, brain and eye health, it’s no wonder the recommendation is to eat at least two servings of seafood each week. So as we start to see a light at the end of the tunnel, I hope to hold on to my renewed confidence around cooking seafood.

Reminding myself, it’s important to branch out of your comfort zone from time to time and enjoy a freshly made fish dish.

10

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

SERVES 4

¼ cup dry white wine

PREPARATION Place a medium pan on high heat and add olive oil.

Once hot add onion, garlic and green onion.

Remove fronds from fennel bulb and set aside.

Coarsely chop fennel bulb and add to pan, stirring until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add wine and simmer for 5 minutes or until nearly evaporated. Stir in rice, bay leaf and season with salt and pepper.

Gradually add in stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes. Once rice is almost completely cooked add in lemon juice, zest and mussels. Cover and cook for 3-5 minutes or until the mussels have opened.

Remove from heat and discard any mussels that didn’t open. Serve with chopped fennel fronds, fresh dill and lemon slices.

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

▪ KANSAS CITY

Goat & Rabbit Written by Jordan Baranowski photography by anna petrow

Goat & Rabbit, a cozy new cocktail bar in Kansas City, provides an upscale yet approachable drinking experience that everyone from university students to professionals can appreciate. Beverage director Kelsey Earl takes inspiration from classic cocktails and experiments with flavor combinations to create distinct drinks. Her Black Manhattan, for instance, is made with rye whiskey, Averna (a type of amaro), walnut liqueur, Angostura aromatic bitters and brandied cherries. The Pic’s Cosmo features citrus vodka, cranberry cordial, dry Curaçao, lime juice and apricot foam.

Not in the mood for a cocktail?

Co-owners Atit and Jugal Patel have also curated a 20-tap beer program that highlights some of the city’s best breweries, as well as a small, focused wine program that they plan to thoughtfully expand over time.

1804 W. 39th St., Kansas City, Missouri, gandrkc.com

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

11

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

▶ OZARK, MO

Mundos Latin Kitchen and Bar Written by claire porter / photography by brandon alms

Mundos Latin Kitchen and Bar brings flavors from 10 Latin American countries to Ozark, Missouri. Victor Briceno opened the restaurant this past December, and he says certain dishes have already proved popular among customers. Jump on the bandwagon and try the mofongo, a Puerto Rican dish highlighting mashed fried plantains, or the Peruvian lomo saltado, a stir-fry that combines marinated strips of sirloin with bell peppers, red onion, tomatoes and french fries.

The latter is drizzled with Mundos’ signature cilantro sauce, which adds a twist to the traditional recipe. Briceno also gets creative with seafood, serving jícama tacos – thinly sliced jícama that’s cooked until pliable like a tortilla – topped with crispy coconut shrimp.

5493 N. 17th St., Ozark, Missouri, facebook.com/ MundosLatinKitchen

▼ ST. LOUIS

Pizzeria da Gloria story and photography by mabel suen

The Hill has welcomed a new spot for crispy wood-fired pizza. Pizzeria da Gloria, which opened last November, is the culmination of passionate pizzaiolo Joe Kurowski’s culinary studies in Italy and the time spent honing his craft in some of New York’s hottest pizza kitchens. Incredibly light, the 12-inch pies combine quality American ingredients and Italian sensibilities. The Bonci, for instance, stands out with thinly sliced roasted eggplant, garlic chile oil and parsley while the Stracciatella entices diners with housemade stracciatella (the creamy center of burrata) atop robust tomato sauce.

2024 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, pizzeriadagloria.com

catfish and fried chicken in Columbia, Missouri, cultivating a loyal following.

Now, fans of the family-owned and -operated restaurant just have to travel a little farther to get their fill of the homestyle fare. Last October, Ms. Kim’s relocated to Fulton, Missouri, Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin occupying a space in the historic photography by aaron ottis Brick District that formerly housed For 15 years, Ms. Kim’s Fish & Chicken Fontenot’s Po’Boys. Stop in for the Shack served some of the best fried classics, or branch out with shrimp, ▲ FULTON, MO

Ms. Kim’s Fish & Chicken Shack

12

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

frog legs or whiting (a white fish with light, lean meat and sweet, delicate flavor). Whichever you choose, a meal at Ms. Kim’s isn’t complete without a smattering of Southern sides – think black-eyed peas, collard greens, pickled beets, potato salad and red beans and rice.

505 Nichols St., Fulton, Missouri, mskimsshack.com

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

columbia, mo

with Jesse Garcia / owner, The Social Room Tell us about The Social Room’s transition from nightclub to restaurant. [Luckily], during the last two years, we added a

must-try late-night eats

at The Social Room

food program to The Social Room. At first we were only approved to do small concessions and stuff like that – only at the end of 2019 were we approved to cook “food of an unlimited nature.” When the first round of shutdowns happened in March [2020], the only reason we were allowed to keep that little business open is because we had a food service license – and that [became] our only source of income.

What’s on the menu? We call it “American stoner food” – food that sounds good when you’re high or drunk, like wild toppings on hot dogs. We have a dog called The Como Dog that’s covered in mac ‘n’ cheese, Sriracha and potato chips. Just decadent stuff like that, and we’ve kind of built

the people’s knees

This hearty helping of scratch-made white Cheddar-pepper Jack mac ‘n’ cheese is topped with barbecue sauce, french-fried onions and house-smoked pulled chicken.

from there. Everything that we can source locally, within reason, we do. We get all of our pork products from Patchwork Family Farms, [for instance]; we’ve got bratwursts and sausages from there that are just amazing. And we make our burgers [and other dishes] in-house and fresh every day, so it’s not frozen food products or anything.

What does a night at The Social Room look like today? We wanted to keep a bit of a nightlife vibe, so we installed a bunch of TVs and play mostly music videos. There’s a pool table room, and we’ve got some classic arcade games. We were an entertainment venue – and we’d like to go back to being an entertainment venue when this is all over – but we’ve made great strides with a good food program, so we’re gonna make sure that stays as a staple part

the holy shit burger

Made with The Social Room’s signature spice blend, this ground chuck burger comes piled high with double pepper Jack, grilled onion, crispy bacon, gooey mac ‘n’ cheese and crushed jalapeño potato chips.

of The Social Room.

Tell us about The Social Room’s “Sunday Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by keith Borgmeyer

Drunch.” It’s just my wife and our kids plus four employees [on staff now], and we all

Although he shuttered two of his beloved entertainment venues during the

work every day that we’re open. None of us want to get up early on Sunday after

pandemic, Jesse Garcia has kept the third afloat with a little luck and a lot of

working Saturday night, so instead of

ingenuity. Previously known for its funky speakeasy vibe, The Social Room

forcing people to wake up to get their

in Columbia, Missouri, is now creating buzz with its lesser-known strength: late-night eats. From 4pm until the city mandates that it closes, the nightclub serves up burgers, bratwursts, mac ‘n’ cheese and more for dine-in service, carryout and delivery. As The Social Room wraps up its first year serving a full menu, Garcia opens up about his unexpected venture into the restaurant business.

Sunday brunch at 11am or whatever, we just open at our normal [time] and [serve]

Cheddar-bacon sausage

Sunday Drunch – it’s like drunk lunch and dinner. We do all the breakfast specials that

thiccc ass french toast plate

you would normally have in the morning, but

The face of Sunday Drunch, the French toast plate features thick slices of Texas toast doused in housemade egg wash and cooked until they taste almost like cinnamon custard, according to Garcia.

we do them all night.

220 N. Eighth St., Columbia, Missouri, thesocialroomcomo.com

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

13

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

Walk-Up Windows When one door closes, a window opens – or something like that. For almost a year, restaurants and bars, cafés and coffee shops have had to grapple with fluctuating dining restrictions and capacity limitations, and so, many have closed their dining rooms and installed walk-up windows to provide a seamless, contact-free to-go experience. At these walk-up windows throughout Missouri, customers can order everything from coffee and donuts to tacos and pizza – a quick fix for an anytime craving. –Tessa Cooper

▪ Springfield, Missouri

▲ KANSAS CITY

▪ St. Louis

Inside the 400-square-foot ruby-red building that

After a brief hiatus this winter, Sauced reopens this month

Constructing a walk-up window in a St. Louis building

houses Team Taco, proper social distancing is

with plans to dish out even more smash burgers, buttermilk

dating back to the late 1800s requires extra effort and

almost impossible. So, after a monthslong closure,

fried chicken, wings and – true to its name – sauce, from

finesse. With help from a small crew, the owners of

the Springfield restaurant started slinging tacos,

garlic aïoli to housemade mumbo sauce. The menu,

Yaquis on Cherokee dismantled bars and gates in the

nachos and rice bowls from a walk-up window that

designed by chef Jayaun Smith, also features a portabella

former jewelry store and exposed an existing doorway

conveniently faces Tie & Timber Beer Co., shamelessly

mushroom burger and sides such as seasoned fries and a

in order to install the window, which they admit was a

enticing imbibers to pop over for some food in between

mixed salad to complement your main. The lunch counter’s

cathartic task. From its new walk-up window, Yaquis

brews. This year, Team Taco also built a new covered

walk-up window, located at Corrigan Station PARC in the

serves pizzas made with housemade dough and sauce

patio – an ideal spot to safely indulge in a Margarita

heart of the Crossroads Arts District, is surrounded by

alongside appetizers, soups, salads and desserts.

and a trio of tacos.

ample outdoor seating if you want to dine al fresco.

Thirsty? You can also pick up bottles of wine, to-go

1454 E. Cherry St., Springfield, Missouri,

1881-B Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, u-hungry.com

teamtacosgf.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PILSEN PHOTO CO-OP

cocktails and jugs of sangria or Margaritas.

14

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

2728 Cherokee St., St. Louis, Missouri, yaquispizza.com

Delivery

(314)533-2700

www.stlgrace.com

Cash In Now!

NOODLE HOUSE SPECIALIZING IN RAMEN AND PHO

East Loop 6105- A Delmar nudohousestl.com @NudohouseSTL 11423 Olive Blvd

Must be 21 or older Valid ID Required Purchases subject to police review All purchases photographed

Serving St. Louis since 1959

8396 Musick Memorial Dr maileestl.com @MaiLeeSTL

Now Order Online www.ricehousestl.com Delivery or Take Out

The Best Fried Rice in Town

314-692-2646 • 11005 Olive Blvd • St. Louis, MO 63141 (at Graeser between Lindbergh and I-270) Hours: M-F 8am - 5pm Sat 8am - 4pm

New Dishes and Daily Specials

2.59

$

1/2 Orders

Chicken Fried Rice (Limit 2)

Must present coupon.

Cannot be combined with other offers.

Expires 3/29/2021

“Like” us for additional deals and info

5.39

$

or

www.ricehousestl.com

Voted Best International Restaurant

Hot Braised Chicken Boneless Combo Plate Must present coupon.

Cannot be combined with other offers.

Expires 3/29/2021

2.39

$

1/2 Orders

g Hirin Now sitions o All P Online ly p p A y Toda

Plain Fried Rice (Limit 2)

Must present coupon.

Cannot be combined with other offers.

Expires 3/29/2021

2.59

$

1/2 Orders 8438 North Lindbergh • Florissant, MO 63031 • 314-837-0711 • 2725 N HWY. 67 • Florissant 63033 • 314-921-0711 SPECIAL CATERING OFFERS FOR YOUR OFFICE OR EVENT!

Pork Fried Rice (Limit 2)

Must present coupon.

Cannot be combined with other offers.

Expires 3/29/2021

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

15

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

yields 3 cups

Artichoke Tapenade 3 cups artichoke hearts, quartered ¹⁄₃ cup pitted green olives 1 Tbsp chopped capers 1 Tbsp minced garlic ¹⁄₃ cup olive oil 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tsp freshly chopped thyme salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste A combination of artichoke hearts and green olives gives this tapenade a rich, decadent flavor. I enjoy it with toast, pizza or really anything.

/ preparation / In a food processor, add artichokes, olives, capers, garlic, oil,

lemon juice and thyme; blend until well combined (the final texture should be like that of pesto). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with toast, crackers and more. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Roasted Artichoke Salad with Edamame and Fennel

The roasted notes, soft but snappy texture and bite from the artichokes, edamame and fennel, respectively, complement one another and characterize this salad.

Keep any leftovers in the refrigerator for a couple days.

3 14-oz cans artichoke hearts, drained and quartered 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup olive oil 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp dried basil 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1 bulb fennel, top and bottom removed and cut into strips 1 12-oz bag frozen shelled edamame, cooked according to package 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice freshly ground black pepper, to taste / preparation / Preheat oven to 425ºF. In a medium baking dish, add artichokes, garlic, oil, vinegar, basil and 1 teaspoon salt; toss until well combined. Place in oven; roast until artichokes start to turn golden, 25 to 30 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove from oven; let cool in baking dish, approximately 10 minutes. Add fennel, edamame and lemon juice to baking dish; toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Stuffed Artichokes 1 lb spicy Italian sausage, casings removed 1 cup quinoa, cooked according to package 3 artichokes, stemmed and trimmed ¼ cup olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup grated Parmesan

Don’t let its thorny exterior intimidate you – the artichoke is hands down my favorite vegetable. The meaty edges at the base of the leaves (or bracts if we

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan

want to get technical) are not only delicious but also fun to eat. Steamed, roasted, grilled or fried, artichokes present endless possibilities while delivering a healthy dose of fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

I use quinoa instead of bread stuffing to lighten this dish, which balances the heavier nature of the sausage. Paired with melted herb butter for dipping (recipe available at feastmagazine.com), it’s substantial enough to serve as a main.

16

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Serves 4

over medium heat, brown sausage.

Once sausage has browned, break into small pieces; mix in quinoa. Working with one artichoke at a time, carefully peel back the leaves until the center is exposed (you don’t need to expose the choke). Starting between the leaves and working your way to the center, stuff artichoke with sausage-quinoa mixture. Repeat process with remaining artichokes. Transfer stuffed artichokes to a large pot; fill pot with water (be

Serves 3 careful to not pour water on the artichokes) until the bottom leaves are almost covered. Drizzle oil over artichokes and water. Add 1 tablespoon salt to water; sprinkle approximately ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper over top of each artichoke.

Set pot over high heat and cover.

Bring water to a boil and then reduce heat to simmer; steam artichokes, 60 to 80 minutes. To check that artichokes are done, pluck a leaf from the middle of one and make sure the meat is tender enough to pull off easily with your teeth.

Once artichokes are done, carefully transfer to plates. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Evenly distribute Parmesan over top and serve immediately with melted herb butter.

PROMOTI ON

How winter citrus can help spark good health SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

GRAPEFRUIT Although grapefruit can be a fine addition to your eating plan, the infamous “grapefruit diet” is best left back in the 1930s, when it was first popularized.

Today we know that grapefruit does come with heaps of vitamins A and C, fiber and antioxidants, but it’s far better to include a wide range of fruits and vegetables in your meals.

Although many of us who live in non-citrus-producing states associate the sunshiny fruits — such as oranges, grapefruits and lemons — with warm weather, winter is the time when they are at their juicy best.

Oranges are often the go-to picks for citrus, and while they are undoubtedly one of nature’s best sources of vitamin C, Hank Dart, who works in prevention and control for Siteman Cancer Center, urges consumers to be adventurous in the produce aisle. “Look a little harder, and you may be able to find other citrus fruits, including large pomelos and tiny kumquats,” he says. “Each fruit has its own character, and many are available fresh year-round.

So try to branch out and choose something new.”

Be aware that grapefruit, grapefruit juice and some other citrus can interact with some medications, such as those that lower cholesterol, treat high blood pressure and alleviate allergies. Talk to a health care provider for more information.

Regardless of the winter citrus that you reach for, they all share many of the same health benefits. “Citrus fruits are a good source of fiber and vitamin C, and they’re relatively low in calories,” Dart says. “And research has found that they may help lower the risk of heart disease, stroke and certain cancers, as well as premature mortality.”

A good rule of thumb to remember is that you’ll always get more nutrition from eating the whole fruit rather than just drinking the juice. “While orange juice and grapefruit juice are easy to find, it’s healthiest to keep them to a minimum,” Dart says. “Even 100 percent juice lacks some of the nutrients and much of the fiber you get from whole fruit, plus it can have as many calories as sugary soda.”

There’s no better time of year than right now to enjoy winter citrus fruits. Clementines, mandarins, kumquats and more are all at their height of ripeness and affordability.

They’ll help us greet the springtime with an extra dose of vitamin C as we wait patiently for the sun to bring the vitamin D.

LEMONS Biologically speaking, most lemons found at U.S. grocery stores are either Lisbons or Eurekas, and both varieties are packed with vitamin C and dietary fiber. Put a squeeze of lemon into your water to add a splash of nutrients and refreshing flavor that will encourage you to keep hydrated. Keep an eye out for Meyer

Hank Dart, MS prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

lemons: Currently in season, they’re a lovely hybrid of mandarins and lemons. They bring a delicate floral note to drinks, salads or baked goods — and they won’t

in good taste

be back until this time next year.

PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Simple Greek Lemon Chicken Soup (Avgolemono) KUMQUAT Because of their size and shape — and because they’re edible, skin and all — kumquats are often compared to large olives. They might be the smallest of the winter citrus fruits, but they’re certainly among the most flavorful.

Eating them whole is too intensely tart for most people’s tastes, so they’re usually sliced and tossed into salads or mashed into marmalades. Kumquats are low in fat, calories

ORANGES

YIELDS | 6 | •2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

From teeny tangerines

•1 cup cooked wild rice or orzo pasta

•1 cup chopped onion

•3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

•5 cups chicken stock

•3 large eggs

•1½ cups cooked chicken breast, shredded

•lemon slices and parsley, for garnish

to hefty navels, oranges are sunny reminders that the days are stretching ever longer and brighter.

Eating any kind of orange will help meet the daily

| Preparation | Heat olive oil in a medium pot and add chopped onions. Sauté over

recommended amount of

medium-high heat until soft and translucent (about 4 to 5 minutes). Add chicken stock to onion and bring to simmer for about 10 minutes. Add cooked wild rice or orzo and cooked, shredded chicken breast to stock and onion mixture. Let simmer for another 10 minutes.

Taste and add a pinch of salt if desired.

vitamin C, a known boost to skin, eye and cellular health. When possible, opt for the whole fruit rather

To temper eggs, crack them into a medium bowl and beat with a whisk. While continuing to whisk, add lemon juice to eggs. Still whisking, slowly add ½ cup of chicken stock to egglemon mixture. Repeat this 3 times. (This step prevents eggs from becoming scrambled when added to the soup by slowly bringing them up to temperature. ) Remove soup from heat. While whisking soup with one hand, slowly pour in the egg-lemon mixture with the other. Garnish with thinly sliced lemon and parsley. Serve immediately.

and sodium, and they

than just the juice — it contains the pith — the white, spongy substance that’s found between PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN

the fruit and the rind. It’s where most of the fiber and nutrients reside.

contain zero cholesterol.

Nutrition information (1 cookie): 150 calories, 8g fat, 46mg sodium, 17g carbohydrate, 1g fiber, 4g protein

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

This month, we’re taking a moment to honor the O.G. of beer cocktails – the Michelada.

Some call it a beer with benefits while others consider it a cousin of the Bloody Mary, but in its simplest form, the Michelada is cold Mexican lager with lime, ice and sweet and savory spices. Throughout Mexico, Micheladas vary wildly in style and flavor; occasionally, they’re even mixed with tomato or Clamato juice. This tried-and-true recipe brings savory and smoky elements to the drink but remains refreshing. Fresh lime juice and a spiced rim are essential in order to achieve the perfect balance and get the full experience.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl waller

You can find this dark-colored, vegetable proteinbased sauce at most international markets.

Michelada

Serves 1 Michelada Mix (Yields approximately 3 oz) 1 oz Tabasco chipotle pepper sauce 1 oz Worcestershire sauce ¾ oz Maggi liquid seasoning ½ oz Fee Brothers Celery Bitters Simple Syrup (Yields approximately 8 oz) 8 oz granulated sugar 8 oz hot water

Grab Modelo Especial or Pacífico, for example, or for a list of locally made Mexicanstyle lagers, visit feastmagazine.com.

Rim Spice ¼ cup salt ¹⁄₈ cup granulated sugar ¹⁄₈ cup gochugaru (Korean chile flakes) Michelada ¾ oz freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more to rim glass rim spice (recipe follows) ¾ oz Michelada mix (recipe follows) ¼ oz simple syrup (recipe follows) 12 oz Mexican-style lager / preparation – michelada mix / In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Transfer to an airtight container and store in refrigerator for up to one month. / preparation – simple syrup / In a heatproof bowl, add all ingredients; stir until sugar has dissolved completely. Transfer to an airtight container and store in refrigerator for up to one week. / preparation – rim spice / In a bowl, thoroughly combine all ingredients. Set aside. / preparation – michelada / Rim a pint glass with lime juice and then dust with rim spice. Add Michelada mix, lime juice and simple syrup to glass. Fill glass with lager; top with ice. Stir with a spoon until well mixed. Enjoy.

18

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Richard Nix Jr. / president, Butler’s Pantry Butler’s Pantry pivoted to catering virtual events early on in the pandemic. How did that work? When your back is against the wall, you come up with new ideas. One of our first virtual events [in 2020] had been planned as an in-person event for almost a year, and [the clients] had about 40 days to make the change to virtual. We were able to deliver close to 300 meals to 110 different locations [for them]. Throughout the year, we altered our virtual offerings, including drivein events. I think for many events, whether they’re weddings or nonprofit or corporate events, we’ll have some sort of a virtual component [moving forward].

And it’s been fun to talk about things differently than we had. We were so busy at one point that we weren’t really getting to know our team. I think we’ve come together much better, and I would say that’s definitely a silver lining.

You also launched Entertaining Now, a series of small catered experiences, last year. How did that come about? It was probably June when we realized, if we’re going to do anything this year, it’s going to be much, much smaller. Entertaining Now is an effort to customize packages around four to six [guests] and eight to 10 [guests] for delivery. We really started it with Easter, because at that point, restaurants were closed for the first time and we knew that people still wanted to get together. That’s how it got started, and it’s been our effort through the holiday season and into the new year.

Written by Liz Miller / photography by judd demaline

Since 1966, Butler’s Pantry has catered events for every occasion, big and small, in St. Louis.

Second-generation president Richard Nix Jr. has spent his entire career growing the business – then, in a matter of days last year, the industry shattered. Nix and his team were flooded with hundreds of event cancellations and postponements due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Catering companies near and far felt the impact, as clients paused weddings, corporate events and other gatherings. “The effect on Butler’s Pantry was into the millions of dollars,” says Nix. Fortunately, the company was able to reschedule approximately half of the events planned for 2020, while others cancelled, downsized or went virtual. Nix says many dates have already been booked for summer and fall 2021, and even more are planned for 2022.

Buffets have always been a popular catering option at events. Is there a way to safely continue offering them post-pandemic? I’d say the buffet will be around, but I think it will be around in a different format. Those unattended large displays of food – they’re probably gone forever, which is good. You’ll start seeing more individual portions, you’ll see more service behind [them] and probably [a change in mindset] to “hey, let’s not fill the buffet up for an hour; let’s fill the buffet for the next few minutes.” You’ll definitely see an increase in service and increased attention to detail, and those details are keeping the food safe, keeping the guests safe and keeping the team members safe, too.

You’ve dedicated your career to the catering industry.

How do you see it evolving? I think [there’s an urgency] to improve food safety, physical plant safety and employee safety in our industry. That’s a really good thing that has come out of this. I think one of the silver linings is that smaller events are here to stay. People can socialize and have a more genuine experience when you’re talking about 10 or 20 people versus 200 people. And I think people are going to utilize their homes more; we’ve seen people utilizing their outdoor [areas] like there’s no tomorrow. There’s definitely fun and creative ways to bring smaller groups together. butlerspantry.com / ma r c h 2 02 1

19

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

ST. LOUIS ▶

Golden Grocer Written by Burk Krohe / photography by judd demaline

Although Forest Park Southeast – in particular, The Grove – is known for indulgent food and drink options, Golden Grocer focuses on the health and wellness of its customers, offering holistic products, nutritious foods and herbal remedies in the St. Louis neighborhood. Jamila Owens-Todd – who owns the shop with her husband, Jermain Todd – doesn’t have a background in retail, but she’s no stranger to the bevy of Golden Grocer’s natural products; she’s been a practicing naturopathic doctor for 13 years, during which time she’s developed close relationships with small and local vendors. Plus, she frequented the shop in its previous location before she bought it in January 2020. In addition to its stock of fresh produce, bulk herbs and spices, natural supplements and more, the store’s new location boasts a café area that sells ready-to-eat vegan meals from Adina’s Vegan Cuisine and vitamin-packed drinks from Soular Smoothie & Juice Bar. “What we’re trying to do is offer some healing and support,” says Owens-Todd. It’s one thing to want to improve your well-being, but it’s another to have a community that validates your endeavor.

4501 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, goldengrocerstl.com

Products to Pick Up from

Golden Grocer

20

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

jamaican sea moss

blenditup

Said to naturally boost

vegan honey

the immune system, this

This organic, “bee-free”

age-old Caribbean remedy

honey substitute is

has recently attracted more

made from apples.

attention thanks to modern

“When I saw that, I was

health trends and celebrity

like, ‘Oh, I definitely

support. The sea moss is

elder farms immune syrup

have to order it,’” says

wild-harvested and sun-dried

Formulated for soothing relief during times of seasonal

Owens-Todd. Use it as

to retain its mineral-rich

stress and maximum immune support year-round, Elder

a sweetener in yogurt,

properties – and it’s delicious

Farms’ flagship product is made with fresh-pressed Missouri-

smoothies or tea.

boiled or blended into drinks.

grown elderberry and American-grown aronia berry.

MIDWEST MADE

Charcuterie Charcuterie boards are having a major moment.

Luckily, you don’t have to look far to stock yours: These locally made cured meats, from prosciutto to summer sausage, are sold throughout Missouri, and they’ll make any board the highlight of your next happy hour.

Written by Tessa Cooper

salume beddu

photography by matt seidel

In 2011, Mike Sloan, whose family owns Swiss Meat & Sausage Co., and his wife, Lynette, ventured out on their own, transforming an auto parts store in Hermann, Missouri, into Hermann Wurst Haus. The deli shop specializes in German-style meats, including liverwurst and head cheese. The peppered sweet bologna – another delicacy – is smoked for five hours and goes well with mild Cheddar or a soft cheese such as quark. Browse the selection of cured meats at the shop or online at hermannwursthaus.com.

Swiss Meat & Sausage Co. in Hermann, Missouri, has a long tradition of producing sausage with Swiss, German, Italian and even Hawaiian influence. Out of its 15 signature sausages, standouts include the andouille (a Cajun ham sausage), spicy pepperonistyle sausage and venison summer sausage. Smooth and delicately spiced, the Germanstyle Braunschweiger deserves a spot on your next board as well. Stop by the store or order an assortment of charcuterie online at swissmeats.com.

Under the owners’ namesake label, Fantasma’s Finest, Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, Missouri, produces outstanding charcuterie. Made with choice cuts of heritage pork and pork liver, the pâtéstyle Braunschweiger features notes of onion, garlic and mustard seed. The Fantasma family pairs it with pickled vegetables and crackers to cut through the fat content and contrast the soft texture.

Order this, summer sausage (we suggest the pepper Jack and jalapeño) and more online at paradisemeats.com.

For more than a century, Volpi Foods has been a reliable source for artisan cured meats.

For the heritage prosciutto – Volpi’s flagship product – fresh ham sourced from local family farms and butchered at Paradise Locker Meats is hand-rubbed, salted and air-dried in-house – an 18-month aging process that yields remarkable results. The prosciutto, plus chorizo, coppa and soppressata, to name a few, are available at the Volpi storefront in St. Louis, at major grocery stores throughout the country and online at volpifoods.com.

Calabrese Salami VOLPI foods

Heritage Prosciutto

Paradise Locker Meats

Braunschweiger Add a taste of Italy to your charcuterie board with the cacciatorini from Salume Beddu in St. Louis. The dry salami gets its bold, punchy flavor from a combination of black pepper, marjoram and red wine. A spicier option, the Calabrese salami delivers notes of chile de árbol, smoked paprika, coriander, garlic and red wine, while the ‘nduja (a spreadable Calabrian-style salami) is packed with chiles and pairs perfectly with toasted ciabatta. Explore everything the local cured meat company has to offer at Parker’s Table in Richmond Heights, Missouri, or online at salumebeddu.com.

swiss meat & Sausage Co.

Hawaiian-Style Summer Sausage Hermann Wurst Haus

Peppered Sweet Bologna

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

21

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

a u M st rd Breaking the rules has never tasted so good.

What Is It? Oil made from mustard seed, or mustard oil, has a searing bite that will banish any lingering winter chill – I think of it as Colman’s mustard powder in liquid form. At international markets, you’ll find it labeled “for external use only” because the U.S. has banned mustard oil for cooking purposes due to the presence of erucic acid, which can contribute to heart problems.

So, why are we talking about it here? Is it safe to consume or not? The quantity that you’d have to consume to cause any harm greatly exceeds the occasional tablespoon or two, so most people agree that it’s OK to use in the kitchen. Remember that in other countries – India, for instance – people use mustard oil as they would any other oil in their pantry. You can also order Yandilla mustard seed oil, the first and only FDA-approved edible mustard oil, online.

Produced in Australia, this specific oil is extracted from seeds from a mustard plant that’s been bred to reduce the amount of erucic acid it contains.

What Do I Do With It? Mustard oil is aromatic and powerful. Drizzle it over a dish or whisk it into a vinaigrette and you’ll get a hit of raw mustard heat similar to that of wasabi in return. If that makes your taste buds recoil, you can tame the oil’s heat with, well, heat. I like to sauté foods in it, for example; mustard oil has a high heat tolerance, making it a great option for cooking meats, fish and vegetables. Plus, it adds an unexpected layer of flavor that will reinforce your love of cooking.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

22

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Spring is fast approaching, which means it’s time to say farewell to big production recipes and take advantage of the fresh ingredients popping up at the market.

Halibut is perfect for this time of year, as it’s just coming in season, but you can also use cod fillets if that’s what you prefer.

Pan-Sautéed Halibut

Serves 2 2 2 2

1 1 ½ ¼ 1

oz greens (spinach, arugula and/or baby kale) Tbsp mustard oil halibut fillets (approximately 1 lb total) kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp olive oil tsp whole cumin seed tsp ground Aleppo pepper, plus more for garnish cup fresh cilantro, chopped medium lime, halved

/ preparation / Lay greens on a serving platter. Heat a heavybottomed nonstick skillet over medium high heat; add mustard oil and swirl around pan. Season halibut fillets with salt and pepper; carefully slide into pan and cook, 4 minutes. Carefully flip; continue to cook until done, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and set over greens.

Reduce heat to medium and add olive oil to pan. Add cumin seed; fry, 30 to 45 seconds, using a spatula to stir constantly and scrape any crispy bits from bottom of pan. Add Aleppo pepper; stir once and then remove from heat. Evenly drizzle oil mixture over fish and greens (you should hear a sizzle as it hits the greens). Garnish with cilantro and more Aleppo pepper; squeeze lime halves over top. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

PA I R IT!

Since we’re already breaking the rules, feel free to alter the measurements in this recipe to suit your palate. It’s also easy to double or even triple the recipe if needed.

pair with: white wine

Crossroads White is the signature white blend of KC Wineworks. Made with Chardonel, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles grape varieties, the off-dry wine is versatile and easy to drink. Bold aromatics lead to notes of apple, pear and melon, and its body and balanced acidity are the right match for the delicate flavors of the fish. The touch of sweetness in the wine also complements the zesty mustard oil in this dish.

–Hilary Hedges kcwineworks.com

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

23

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

This silky coconut custard is inspired by the flavors of malabi (also known as muhallebi and mahalabia), a sweet milk pudding popular in the Middle East. Both dairy- and gluten-free, it’s incredibly easy to execute – 15 minutes and you’re finished – so there’s no reason not to indulge even on a weekday.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri

u

Sy

p

Bl

e b e

ru

w it h

u s C t t a u -S affr o n y r r

Blueberry-Saffron Syrup (Yields 1 cup) ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup blueberry jam ¼ cup hot water 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 pinch saffron Coconut Custard 1 13.5-oz can coconut cream 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk ½ cup sugar ¹⁄₃ cup cornstarch ¼ cup water toasted coconut or chopped pistachios, for garnish

rd

Cocon

Photography by kim wade

serves 4 to 6

/ preparation – blueberry-saffron syrup / In a small saucepan, add all ingredients; set over low heat and whisk until sugar and jam have dissolved completely. Set aside to cool. / preparation – coconut custard / In a medium saucepan, combine coconut cream, coconut milk and sugar; set over medium high heat and stir until small bubbles start to form. In a small bowl, whisk together cornstarch and water to make a slurry. Slowly add slurry to pan; stir until mixture has thickened and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and divide into ramekins or small jars. Cover each with plastic wrap; transfer to refrigerator until cold, 3 to 4 hours. / to serve / Remove custard from refrigerator; top with syrup and garnish of your choice. Enjoy.

pair with: Cream Ale

PA I R IT!

The cream ale from Public House Brewing Co. gets its golden hue from lightly toasted barley malt and flaked maize. The latter gives the ale a smooth, “creamy” character that complements this rich coconut custard.

Its fruity yet floral nose echoes that of the blueberry-saffron syrup, which also harmonizes with the beer’s slight sweetness.

–JC Sandt publichousebrewery.com

24

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

KANSAS CITY

with James Bates / founder, KnockKnock, KC

Written by Jenny Vergara photography by stuart heidmann

Two things prompted Kansas City tech entrepreneur James Bates to launch KnockKnock, KC, a restaurant delivery staffing service, last summer.

First, the COVID-19 pandemic had already created a massive need for more to-go food options, and although many restaurants were working tirelessly to recalibrate their menus and streamline their online ordering systems, they were still relying on third-party delivery services to get their food into diners’ hands. Second, Bates’ son and daughter were both home from school, looking for jobs alongside countless other students, and they quickly became KnockKnock, KC’s first driver resources, reaching out to their networks to build a driver base.

The aim of KnockKnock, KC is to give independent restaurants in the Kansas City area access to a network of reliable delivery drivers for a fixed hourly rate. The model allows restaurants to cut ties with delivery apps – which charge as much as 30 percent of each sale – and still get orders out to customers.

The restaurants can specify the uniform that the delivery people wear and the way each dish is packed, allowing them to remain in control of their product. Right now, more than 20 establishments, including Buffalo State Pizza Co., Crazy Good Eats, Martin City Brewing Co. (which recently became part-owner in the business), Old Shawnee Pizza, Pad Thai and Red Door Woodfired Grill, use KnockKnock, KC’s services, and the list continues to grow.

KnockKnock, KC is not a delivery app; it’s a delivery staffing service. What’s the difference? We don’t provide an online platform where customers can place an order; we provide the labor to the restaurant to execute a curbside carryout or delivery order.

The restaurants usually have their own online ordering systems, and we just supply the workers to box up the orders and either run them [out to the cars] or deliver them to customers’ [front doors]. The restaurants can choose if they want to charge more for delivery to cover the cost of [the service] or not – that’s entirely up to them. The important part is that the restaurant is in control of its brand from start to finish with our service.

Would you consider partnering with a third-party delivery service to provide the delivery drivers? Yes. In fact, we are getting ready to partner with ChowNow, which I think is the best-

in-class delivery system. We’ll be connected with ChowNow’s restaurant clients in the Kansas City market, which will allow us to introduce KnockKnock, KC and its delivery offering. Currently, ChowNow is also working with US Foods to be the online delivery app they recommend to their restaurant customers that are adding delivery for the first time, and we would be a part of that moving forward.

third-party delivery companies, however, we also recognize that the second we step outside of Kansas City, we become what we are fighting against. So, we are developing a franchise model to help people who live in cities across the U.S. offer this service to benefit their own network of independent restaurants. [That way], we aren’t coming in from the outside and trying to sell [those restaurants] on how this will help their business.

What else do you have planned for KnockKnock, KC? I recently sold 49 percent of KnockKnock, KC to the guys that own Martin City Brewing Co., and we’ll be working together to get this program to the next level; that includes creating an app for our delivery drivers to use, which is currently in production. It is important to us that we keep KnockKnock, KC a local company to help stimulate the economy here. Today, we know our competition is the big corporate

What is the ultimate goal of KnockKnock, KC? At the end of the day, KnockKnock, KC is simply trying to be a lifeline for restaurants by fulfilling their curbside carryout and delivery orders in a costcontrolled and branded way today to allow them to grow their business tomorrow. knockknockkc.com / ma r c h 2 02 1

25

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

In this class, you’ll learn how to use but also preserve seasonal vegetables so you can enjoy them for weeks to come. Plus, learn how to perfectly poach cod and create a classic dessert with layers of puff pastry, fresh fruit and whipped cream.

Peas, Prosciutto & Parmesan Hearing people say, “I don’t like peas!” is the reason I grow – or, at least, attempt to grow – peas in early spring. One bite of freshly picked peas, with their sweet crispness, can instantly change their minds. In this dish, savory prosciutto and salty Parmesan make fresh peas even more appetizing. Finished with lemon vinaigrette and zest, it’s a lovely side dish for the season, or you can toss everything with pasta for a whole meal.

Recipe adapted by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

serves 4

Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 5pm on Thu., March 18 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Participants can pick up meal kits containing all the ingredients they’ll need to make the meal at 12332 Manchester Road on Wed., March 17 from 9am to 5pm and Thu., March 18 from 9am to 3pm. For more information, contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 26

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Lemon Vinaigrette 3 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Peas, Prosciutto and Parmesan 8 oz sugar snap peas 8 oz shelled fresh peas 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 4 oz prosciutto, thinly sliced and cut into bite-sized pieces lemon vinaigrette (recipe follows) 4 oz Parmesan, shaved zest of 2 lemons / preparation – lemon vinaigrette / In a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice and olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

/ preparation – peas, prosciutto and parmesan / Prepare an ice bath by placing a colander in a bowl of ice water. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add sugar snap peas; boil, 60 to 90 seconds, and then transfer to ice bath with MAKE THE MEAL a slotted spoon.

• Peas, Prosciutto and Parmesan Repeat process with shelled fresh • Poached Cod with Lemon Butter Sauce peas. Drain peas; • Salad with Quick Pickled Vegetables pat dry.

• Spring Millefeuille Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add prosciutto; stirring occasionally, cook until brown and crisp. Transfer to a paper towel to drain. In a bowl, toss peas, prosciutto and lemon vinaigrette; sprinkle with Parmesan. Top with lemon zest and serve.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

St. louis

with Kim Bond / co-owner, Gooseberries tAt Gooseberries in St. Louis, it’s easy to eat well. The wholesome comfort

food concept opened in 2014, and a satellite location dubbed Gooseberries2Go debuted inside The Fortune Teller Bar last November. Kim Bond, who co-owns both establishments with her husband and fellow seasoned chef, Ross Lessor, serves a smorgasbord of homestyle eats and treats – from scratch-made jalapeño-Cheddar bread to gyro hand pies to barbecue bacon pizza – for pickup. She also pushes the boundaries of plant-based food with menu items such as the beet Reuben, a vibrant specialty sandwich featuring brined beets and cabbage, vegan cheese and vegan Thousand Island dressing on housemade pumpernickel. Here, Bond shares three cookbooks that can help you expand your recipe repertoire as well. –Mabel Suen photography by matt seidel

Vegetable Kingdom

The Complete Book of Breads

The Uncheese Cookbook

by Bryant Terry (2020)

by Bernard Clayton Jr. (1973)

by Joanne Stepaniak (1994)

“This is a great book for people to start off with if they’re thinking of getting into vegetarianism and veganism. It shows you how expansive plant-based food can be – the flavors are endless and you can come up with something from just about anything.”

“This was my first baking book and the first book that really influenced me. I’ve made everything in it countless times, which taught me the basics of baking. Every recipe I tried, from a multi-layered Swiss croissant to the first braided loaf I ever made, was so good that I kept going with it.”

“[This] has lots of different ideas of how to make the cheesy things that you might miss if you become vegan.

It really made me think differently in terms of what can be done with food to fulfill that want, like making a sauce that has creaminess from cashews, carrots, sweet potatoes or pumpkin … puréed with nutritional yeast.”

30 years serving our community From silverware to walk in coolers and everything in between.

Always here for you and your business. call for Personal service (636)-244-2378

Please Stay Safe, Stay Healthy, Be Kind and practice Social Distancing - we can get through this TOGETHER! www.stcharlesrestaurantequipment.com 4024 N Service Rd, St Peters, MO 63376 / ma r c h 2 02 1

27

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!

Do your body and taste buds a favor and order fresh oysters • Low in fat • High in protein • Rich in minerals and vitamins

314-993-4844 8660 Olive in U City bobsseafoodstl.com

industry’s best • lifetime no clog/no fall off warranty

1 PART WHOA. A. TS WOW. 2 PARTS WOW ALL PARTS TS VOR. FLAVOR.

Spring Special

100% Labor

OFF

FREE yard trimmer with purchase!

0

$

DOWN

0

$

FINANCING AVAILABLE AS LOW AS

PAYMENTS

FOR 60 DAYS

Our award-winning cocktail mixes are good beyond words.

Luckily for us, the flavor speaks for itself.

$40 A MONTH

FREE GUTTER CLEANING & TUNE-UP WITH EVERY INSTALL

echnology eed! t d e t n e t a p never-fail ing & clogs - guarant lean ends gutter c

• Shingle Safe Install Follows Roof Pitch • Installs on Existing Gutters • Unique Filter

314-334-2352, 816-688-2355

USA*MasterShield of St Louis (”MSSL”) is neither a broker nor a lender. Financing is provided by third-party lenders unaffiliated with MSSL, under terms and conditions arranged directly between the customer and such lender, all subject to credit requirements and satisfactory completion of finance documents. Any finance terms advertised are estimates only. MSSL does not assist with, counsel or negotiate financing, other than providing customers an introduction to lenders interested in financing MSSL’s customers. Patents: micromeshgutterguards.com/patents/.Offer Expires 3/31/21.

28

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

2021

MasterShield.com

Call to Schedule a Free, Easy & NO PRESSURE ESTIMATE

www.zingzang.com/recipes .zingzang.com/recipes

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Sergio Chierego / chef de cuisine, Casa Don Alfonso How have your travels influenced your cooking style? I’ve worked with a lot of people of different nationalities and backgrounds.

That’s the part I enjoyed the most – being able to work with people from all over the world – and that’s what really motivates me every day.

Flavor-wise, [my cooking] is based on my mom and dad and, of course, the Italian culture. My mom cooked from scratch every day. She used fresh, seasonal ingredients – never frozen. For us, Italian flavors are natural; it’s something you learn at the dinner table. Traveling and working in kitchens in Germany, the U.K. and Antigua and Barbuda, I was able to expand my recipe book, if you will. And then I got the opportunity to work in a wine shop [before] I moved to Riyadh for The Ritz-Carlton.

Written by Nancy Stiles photography by matt seidel

The Gateway City isn’t lacking in Italian restaurants, but Sergio Chierego is confident that there is room for at least one more. As chef de cuisine of Casa Don Alfonso at The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis – which is scheduled to open this month – he brings international experience to renowned Italian restaurateur Mario Iaccarino’s first American venture.

Chierego grew up in Sardinia, Italy, and has worked all over the world, from Germany to the U.K. to the Caribbean. Most recently, he was chef de cuisine at The Ritz-Carlton’s restaurant in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. With his combined experience and tenacious personality, Chierego is poised to add a unique point of view to St. Louis’

How do you plan to put your own touches on Iaccarino’s concept and menu? I’m quite happy that the Iaccarino family adopted me for this project. I feel honored to be part of this journey. I’m going to embrace [Mario’s] menu and vision and slowly introduce my own. The pandemic is playing a part, however; we will not show our full potential from the beginning. Step by step, we will introduce more to our story.

storied Italian dining scene.

How will Casa Don Alfonso fit into St. Louis’ Italian dining landscape? I appreciate the fact that the Italian community [here] is strong and active. What Casa Don Alfonso will provide is a very authentic flavor based on organic ingredients and daily preparation.

For example, our kitchen has only one freezer, so we cannot mass produce anything. Our team will work every day with the freshest, highest quality products – it shows our respect for the ingredients. I’m so excited [about this restaurant] that I had to cross the ocean to be here. I really believe that St. Louis and the Italian community deserve this representation of Italian cuisine. We’re here to establish new flavors with old traditions. pastiera napoletana

Must-Try Dishes at Casa Don Alfonso

100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri, casadonalfonsostlouis.com

build-your-own soup

maccheroni gratin

pastiera napoletana

The soups at Casa Don Alfonso are served

Chierego refers to the maccheroni gratin as

Think of the pastiera napoletana, a traditional

“naked.” Guests are presented with a basic

an Italian interpretation of American mac ‘n’

Neapolitan dessert, as a “primitive cheesecake.”

soup of either legumes or tomato and

cheese. The béchamel sauce in the dish is made

Made with wheat and sheep’s milk ricotta, “it has a humble origin,” says Chierego. “It was made with

then given a spread of garnishes, from

with Don Alfonso extra-virgin olive oil instead of

sun-dried tomatoes to dry chiles and fresh

butter, and the artisanal Parmesan is produced

ingredients that were accessible to the farmers.

herbs to sourdough bread.

by the only female cheesemaker in Parma, Italy.

It’s delicious, [and] people should definitely try it.”

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

29

dine & drink / on trend / 3 ways / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / sugar rush

It’s been almost a year since the sourdough frenzy of lockdown.

Now, we’re taking our sourdough starters for another spin. Boasting a soft, fluffy texture inside a crisp exterior, these waffles use sourdough discard (the portion of your sourdough starter that you get rid of when you do a feeding) as the base. The batter has to rest and ferment overnight, but the wait is worth it. Full of flavor, sourdough waffles have a subtle tang, which can be enhanced by reducing the amount of sugar added to the overnight sponge.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

yields 6 to 8 waffles Overnight Sponge 1 cup sourdough discard 1¼ cups buttermilk 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp sugar Sourdough Waffles overnight sponge (recipe follows) ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp kosher salt 1 large egg 1 tsp baking soda

Top these waffles with butter and pure maple syrup or any topping of your choice.

/ preparation – overnight sponge / In a large bowl, whisk all ingredients together. Cover bowl; let rest at room temperature, at least 10 hours. / preparation – sourdough waffles / Preheat waffle iron. In the bowl with the overnight sponge, add remaining ingredients; whisk until combined. Lightly spray waffle iron with nonstick cooking oil spray.

Pour a portion of the batter into the hot waffle iron; cook until waffle is a deep golden brown and then transfer to a plate. Repeat process with remaining batter. Serve waffles immediately for the best texture.

pair with: Caffè Amaro

PA I R IT!

A one-of-a-kind take on coffee liqueur, Caffè Amaro from J. Rieger & Co. is aromatic and herby, bitter and slightly sweet. I love fizzy, refreshing cocktails with brunch, so I recommend combining the cold-brew coffeebased amaro with ginger beer to accompany this delicious waffle. Add 1½ ounces Caffè Amaro to a Collins glass; fill glass with ice. Top with ginger beer (my go-to is Fever-Tree) and a couple dashes Angostura aromatic bitters.

Stir until well mixed. Express lemon peel oil over cocktail and drop peel in glass for garnish.

–Darrell Loo jriegerco.com

30

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Imagine your home, totally organized!

Custom Closets Garage Cabinets Home Offices Pantries, Laundries and Hobby Rooms.

2018 © All Rights Reserved. Closets by Design, Inc.

Pantry

Keep Your Spirits Up pinckneybend.com

40% Off 15%

Plus receive a FREE GIFT with purchase

Plus FREE Installation PLUS TAKE AN EXTRA

Off

40% off any order of $1000 or more. 30% off any order of $700 or more. On any complete Closet, Garage or Home Office. Take an additional 15% off on any complete system order. Not valid with any other offer. Free installation with any complete unit order of $500 or more. With incoming order, at time of purchase only. Expires 3/31/2021.

WWW.CLASSIC1073.ORG

For Feast Magazine Readers

THE SLATKIN SHUFFLE

www.closetsbydesign.com

SPECIAL FINANCING for up to 18 Months!

With approved credit. Call or ask your Designer for details. Not available in all areas.

Call for Free Estimate

314-310-0099

FM

Locally Owned and Operated Like us on

and

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

31

Inspired Local Food Culture /

at home

MIDWEST

CELEBRATIONS Join us for our virtual event series celebrating St. Louis traditions like no other! Tickets include a custom cocktail kit, offers to local establishments, recipes, local goodies and more — all delivered to your door!

All events feature exclusive access to a live cooking and cocktail demo hosted by Feast Publisher Cat Neville.

FEAST

St.. P Patrick’s Da Day Party Thursday, March 11, 7pm

FEAST

Taco Tuesday Tuesday, May 4, 7pm

PRESENTED BY

PRESENTED BY

BUY ONE EVENT OR BUY THE FULL SERIES AT:

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM/ATHOME Limited tickets available. Delivery to Missouri residents only.

32

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

y a D s ' k St. Patrick's Day c i r t a P .

St.Patrick's Patrick'sDay Day StSt.

PROMOTION

s St. i h t o you t y n this St. t r Feast is bringing n oyou pa the party oto i e t h a t r g eleb celebration ngin Day! l cvirtual i a r Patrick’s Our on u b eats t s r i i the Myou v t Feast s s ' r a k Feast is is bringing bringing the party party to to you this this St. St. u c e i F ay! O Kenrby Kenrick's D March 11, presented y llery, Meats s ’ i b t k s c i d i e r D t Patrick’s Our virtual virtual on ckcelebration enOur PatPatrick’s icelebration toon esDay! inDominick rDay! d p m e , & Catering and Old Distillery, r o 1 1 e h rcMarch Old D byby deliv Meats tillery presented Kenrick's Meats s t i March 11, 11, presented Kenrick's d i Ma k D n d l a i k includes a festive cocktail kit to kta s an ring edelivered pirits iDistillery, e ocDominick minic t d c o new s a o , e e D C o iv v & Catering & Catering and and Old Old Dominick Distillery, t i . g d & va recipe fest along with g inno to anand therother goodies adoor m Ol o s o classic istillin s your d r s ir e f h h e e h it t t d i c yw ke lu acdelivered cincludes histor to ma includes aafestive alofestive cocktail kit delivered tob toy cipe in ng wcocktail orkit e f ars of d Vodka R e n y is e i h lly.

0 t t r p a 5 ir 1 em le party Then access to an os netune in for s loc oo favors. n h u d m t on the i store inick M o r s d m in G il o u le u m e D ab door with otheregoodies and ld yoyour ry b your door along other and Th with , avail Find O istille rs.along tail dgoodies o . 10 Gin ation. k v inick D o t n c Irish cooking and cocktail demo hosted by N m a e o f la o D c tune in for access to an er ice perim Old ormu dtune artyfavors. n n t s ov ant ex heir F favors.

Then pparty t a t ie ! s d h party Then in for access to an n e e it o r g l ew our ing in vil and c and p e mad okpublisher ild all NeNeville!

Feast Cat o t c n | Bu also b strain a o , n i e a t h k c C a ou do a r s t Distillery I Gimlet Recipe from Old r cocktail ri cooking IIrish e Irish cooking and and cocktail demo demo hosted hosted by by repa Dominick s. (If y er. Sh P s k h | a la s h g i s ail glass ther ubl c o c kt S|1| p ute a e or o a E it p y t t V u r in s o e s R b l c e innovative, new spirits SEOld Dominick Distilleryckbuilds led distilling Distilon their 150 years of history ker, su hilwith Fea publisher Feast Feast publisher Cat Cat Neville!

Neville! hom il sha to a c t aDistillery in tto omini k a D c / o d Gimlet Gimlet Recipe Recipe from from Old Old Dominick Dominick Distillery feastmagazine.com/athome l c and constant experimentation.

Find Old Dominick Memphis Vodka make their classic recipe.

O oz ka ve a • 2 lid.) e.com is Vod not ha n gazi a m t feas feastmagazine.com/athome feastmagazine.com/athome

itted locally.

It can also bephmade with their Formula No. 10 Gin, availablehin Mem a fstores it distilling w Old Dominick Dominick Old Dominick Distillery Distillery builds builds on their on their 150 years years 150 years of history history of history with distilling innovative, innovative, newnew spirits spirits jarwith e their c i Old Distillery builds on 150 of with distilling innovative, new spirits u j lime me) z o ½ and constant and constant constant experimentation.

FindFind Old Dominick Dominick Old Dominick Memphis Memphis Vodka Vodka to make make to make theirtheir classic classic recipe. recipe.

SERVES | 1 |hly ½ li Find • experimentation. and experimentation.

Old Memphis Vodka to their classic recipe. (roug It can can It also also can also be made made be made withwith theirtheir Formula Formula No. 10 No. Gin, 10 Gin, available available in stores in stores locally. locally. p u r It be with their Formula No. 10 Gin, available in stores locally. sy imple oz sDominick | Preparation | Build all ingredients over ice • 2 oz½Old Distillery • SERVES SERVES 1| Vodka SERVES || 11 || | Memphis in a cocktail shaker. Shake, strain and pour

• ½ oz lime juice oz2Old Old ozn Old Dominick Dominick Distillery Distillery 22•m oz Dominick o (roughly ½Distillery lime) a Memphis Memphis Vodka Vodka Vodka Cinn Memphis ••

• ½ oz simple syrup y and e k ½ • oz oz½lime lime oz lime juicejuice s •• ½ juice i h W (roughly (roughly ½ lime) lime) ½ lime) h (roughly ½ s i r I h t i Apple Galettetwith te wIrish Whiskey and Cinnamon ½ • oz oz½simple simple oz simple syrup syrup •• ½ syrup

Gale e l RECIPE BY CAT NEVILLE p ted, p AGalette p toas ds LE Irish cuCinnamon ILwith ½ V E Apple Apple Galette with Irish Whiskey Whiskey and and Cinnamon o N • alm n SERVES | 8 toBY10CA| T sliced PE

y hiske Irish w p ½ cup toasted, s b T • 2 SERV tarch sliced almonds corns SERVES SERVES 8 to | 8 10 to | 10 | gh p u s SERVES || 8 to 10 | o b d T • 1 egg, beaten e 1 to 2 • pi gar, • whiskey • 2 Tbsp Irish do su en a t in a b e • ½ • cup ½ cup toasted, toasted, •• pie pie • dough dough pie dough r b • ½ cup toasted, r tu gg, • ¼ cup brown sugar raw o ish • 1e sliced sliced almonds almonds • cornstarch sliced almonds rn sugar a • 1 to 2 Tbsp g n , r w o o f r egg, 1 •egg, beaten cream •• 11•egg, beaten cup b ½beaten tsp ground cinnamon ¼ n lotted o c m r • a o n • 2 • Tbsp 2 Tbsp Irish Irish whiskey whiskey • 2 Tbsp • Irish rawwhiskey or turbinado ipped nd cin hsugar, ¼ • cup cup ¼ cup brown sugar sugar tsp grou • w erve •• ¼ sugar • brown ¼brown tsp freshly ½ for garnish o t s • to 221 Tbsp to Tbsp 2 Tbsp cornstarch cornstarch •• 11•to cornstarch grated nutmeg hly s e r f •• ½ ½ • tsp tsp ½ground ground tsp ground cinnamon cinnamon thick. cinnamon ¼ tsp eg • whipped or clotted cream, -inch • nutm ⅛ d t • raw • raw or turbinado or turbinado sugar, sugar, e u t o • raw or turbinado sugar, a gr Pink ab • 1 lb Granny Smith, to serve , Pink that’s ¼ • tsp tsp ¼freshly freshly tsp freshly for garnish garnish for garnish •• ¼ Smith baking for round Lady or other firm baking y h n c n in a r grated grated nutmeg nutmeg 12grated nutmeg 1 lb Gsliced er firm ly sliced apples, peeled, into a ugh.

• thinly ghclotted in or oth uor whipped • whipped or clotted cream, cream, the do doclotted f •• whipped or cream, t u o Lady , peeled, th o e ll oto rfac lb Granny Granny 1 lb Granny Smith, Smith, PinkPinkapples F. R to serve serve •• 11•lb Smith, Pink then 75°to serve the su et. dough that’s about ⅛ -inch | Preparation | Preheat oven to 375° F. Roll out sheround n to 3 into ak12-inch overthick. ey and g e e k v y. in LadyLady or other other or other firmfirm baking baking is o m h o t a Lady or firm baking le s lly juic he w ed b ehea sheet.

Transfer crust to a thinly parchment-lined is rea sprink n | Prbaking nt-lin with t apples, apples, peeled, peeled, thinly sliced sliced g o e d g i n t in n m apples, peeled, thinly sliced a a ll h r lo c g e fi a a e ar he t th | Prep ixture to a p d nutm er if t . Plea crust on an ugar m order anoth rRoll s m b e g a g f h in n s c in n d || Preparation Preparation | Preheat oven to 375° F. out dough into a 12-inch round that’s about -inch thick. in | Preparation | Preheat oven to 375° F. Roll out dough into a 12-inch round that’s about -inch thick. ⅛ ⅛ in aandF.cinnamon In small bowl, mix and nutmeg and sprinkle some the surface of the dough. ain over | Preheat ovensugar toTr375° Roll out dough intonda c12-inch round that’s about d ad thick. m t, then 1½ n-inch s in re e crus ugar a oon a ving a d h s a p t n s bout le o ix h , le s m h Transfer crust to aa parchment-lined parchment-lined baking sheet.

Transfer crust to a parchment-lined baking l, insheet. alm mixture Toss apple slices and slicedbaking almonds remaining along whiskey Transfer crust to oug and then king, a e tab with the owsheet. d bru edsugar a d n b n c b o e a li ll h g s h a g t in it d g m ur an r of In sstarting ing e rting w toss with the cornstarch, filling juicy.once d slicesone tablespoon cente if the emain is really ple with h, sta and padding the another e rthe ating rcand hof apand in t a t s t o h r s s la In small bowl, mix sugar and cinnamon nutmeg and sprinkle some over the surface dough. , In small bowl, mix sugar and cinnamon and nutmeg sprinkle some over the surface of the dough. o it n r n r T edough, In small bowl, mix apple sugar slices and cinnamon and tnutmeg over the of the dough. h aw1½ inch co and sprinkle ovsome Arrange so they overlap leaving ey the wassurface n brow Pleatuthe h hein the center thof refer. ldeborder. eggwith somixture wit nwith yo p il goand ces sugar twhiskey TossToss apple slices and sliced sliced almonds in remaining sugar along with thekwhiskey whiskey and then apple slices and sliced almonds in remaining mixture the and then e aalong s tossin li n k a s u Toss apple slices and almonds remaining sugar mixture along the then a , e le m M . a a and brushdthe dough over the apple filling. Make an egg then pp egg wash fiwith crecrust, llingthe remaining ge aone and ifb the none ttis rrawith lofilling garanother ppleand tosstoss withwith the cornstarch, cornstarch, starting with tablespoon and adding adding filling ise really really juicy.juicy. the cornstarch, starting and adding ifofilling the is really uanother A r conce toss with the with one tablespoon if the juicy. e abake o sanother htablespoon d t m a r sprinkle with rawstarting or turbinado sugar and until golden brown, rotating during baking, about a e in e v r b o c r h in roftudough, ugthe peaad1½ o Arrange apple slices so they they overlap the center of the dough, leaving 1½ainch inch border.

Pleat the the Arrange apple slices so they overlap the hcenter the dough, leaving 1½ inch border.

Pleat doin w the Arrange apple so overlap center leaving border.

Pleat the raof whip h it it 40 to slices 50 minutes.

Serve withinwhipped cream or clotted cream, as you prefer. w w le rve remaining inkegg ran s. Seremaining spegg dough overover the apple apple filling.

Make an egg washwash with the remaining egg and and brush brush the crust, crust, thenthen dough the apple filling.

Make the egg and brush the crust, dough over the filling.

Make an wash the egg the then utewith in mwith 0 5 o t and 0 4 sprinkle with raw or turbinado sugar and bake until golden brown, rotating once during baking, about sprinkle with raw or turbinado sugar bake until golden brown, rotating once during baking, about sprinkle with raw or turbinado sugar and bake until golden brown, rotating once during baking, about 40 to to 50 minutes.

Serve withwith whipped cream or clotted clotted cream, as you you prefer.

40 tominutes.

50 minutes.

Serve whipped cream or clotted cream, as prefer. you prefer.

40 50 Serve with whipped cream or cream, as RECI RECIPE RECIPE

BY CAT CAT BY NEVILLE RECIPE BY NEVILLE • CAT pie NEVILLE doughE S |

8 to 1

0|

•

into a chilled coupe or other glass. (If you do Preparation | Preparation Build | Build all ingredients ingredients all ingredients overover ice ice || Preparation || Build all ice not have a cocktail shaker, over substitute a glass in aa cocktail cocktail in a cocktail shaker. shaker.

Shake, Shake, strain strain and pour and pourpour in shaker.

Shake, strain and jar with a fitted lid.) intointo chilled a chilled coupe coupe or other other or other glass. glass.

(If you you (If do you do do into aa chilled coupe or glass.

(If not have not have a cocktail a cocktail shaker, shaker, substitute substitute a glass a glass not have a cocktail shaker, substitute a glass jar with with jar with fitted a fitted lid.) lid.) jar aa fitted lid.)

COVID-19 has tested the limits of the independent restaurant industry.

What will it take to not only save the industry – but make it stronger?

Restaurants do more than feed us. They’re the gathering places and community hubs where birthdays are celebrated, relationships are founded and bad days are washed away.

But they’re in serious trouble. As of early December, 17 percent of U.S. restaurants – more than 110,000 establishments – had closed permanently or long-term. In the blink of an eye, we’ve lost mom-and-pop diners, hole-in-the-wall dive bars and lauded fine-dining institutions alike. Thousands more are hanging on by a thread.

The pandemic has shown us just how fragile the restaurant industry is, shining new light on decades-long conversations about everything from tipping and healthcare to increasing equity and access within the industry. Here, local restaurant professionals reflect on the year that changed everything – and where we go from here.

Interviews compiled by Kasey Carlson, Rachel Huffman, Heather Riske and Jenny Vergara

Illustrations by rebecca Rehagen

34

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

Farina in Kansas City by Pilsen Photo Co-op / ma r c h 2 02 1

35

85 percent of independent restaurants could close without further government support “The government should offer all people healthcare, full stop.

Fannie Gibson Fannie’s West African Cuisine Kansas City

This pandemic has made it crystal clear that our healthcare system is beyond broken, and our society is broken when the people who cannot work from home, who risk their lives by providing the goods and services that our communities need, are also the people least likely to be able to afford or have health insurance. It’s shameful, and it sucks to be a part of that system. We offer our staff who don’t have insurance a plan for a primary care doctor. It doesn’t cover the hospital, but they can see a regular doctor anytime they want to for free. We’re doing the best we can in the system we have, but I do wish there were more options.”

Amanda Rainey

“ owner, I was simply trying to As a new restaurant

survive at the beginning of the pandemic. I was working around the clock, and so I did not hear or know anything

Pizza Tree and Goldie’s Bagels Columbia, Missouri

59 percent of operators say their total labor costs as a percentage of sales are higher than they were pre-pandemic

about these financial grants that were available from the government. Luckily, I had friends who did call me and tell me to apply, but if they had not told me about it, I would have missed out on those opportunities. I saw how easy it could be for a small shop like mine to get lost in the shuffle of a

”

worldwide pandemic.

36

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

, “A huge help at the outset of the lockdown came when many banks suspended loan payments and/or interest on loan payments. We really needed another round of that in the fall and winter.

The bottom line is that restaurants operate off a very thin profit margin during ‘good times;’ now

Dan Dethrow, Flyover Columbia, Missouri

we have to try to stay afloat at 50 percent capacity while about 80 percent of our bills continue to come in. The federal aid in the form of the Paycheck Protection Program was huge for us and a tremendous help.

Another form of this or some type of federally backed aid could make a world of difference for restaurants.”

Chris Meyer Kounter Kulture and Songbird St. Louis

“

and the problem is those vary. Your chains like

discouraging for restaurants. We provide

Starbucks or Target or Walgreens – they’re all

a large portion of the tax base in St.

built from a cookie-cutter model that works on

Louis city. We are a tourist attraction. We

that layout. But every restaurant is really, really

stabilize neighborhoods, which improves

different as far as the layout and the number of

everyone’s property value. So why aren’t

staff and how they interact with customers. We

people saying anything or offering any

needed someone to advise restaurants, but the

help? In some ways it’s kind of trial

create have become a pretty large portion of the

health department is incredibly stretched right

and error, which doesn’t make you feel

economy, so if you let that whole sector go down, it’s

now. It’s very confusing for restaurants to get

super secure, and I think that variance is

going to be really disastrous. I think most restaurants

different messages from the city, the county

confusing to customers, too. The lack

have wanted to try to stay open or have needed to

and the state all at one time. It’s kind of every

of uniformity is really hard for staff,

stay open, and so you have to figure out safe practices

person for themselves right now, and that’s

owners, customers – everybody.

Restaurants and the supply chain that they

”

Independent restaurants directly employ 11 million workers and indirectly support 5 million more throughout the food and hospitality supply chains

“We pay 50 percent of the healthcare costs for the employees at our restaurants. That was something that we were working toward, and we were really proud that we were able to get to a point where we could afford to do that, and then this happened. But we felt like this wasn’t the time to back down on that – if anything, it’s more important than ever. It’s something we fought to keep and even though our team is smaller than it was before, we’re still doing that. But that’s expensive. People are eventually going to have to realize that the cost of eating out is different than they think it is, and until more of us adjust our pricing accordingly, it’s going to be very hard to compete. The reality is that there are lots of things you have to pay for on top of the rising cost of food; it’s really expensive to run a restaurant and then to also talk about paying people fairly and providing them benefits. It just needs to cost a lot more to eat out.”

Tara Gallina Winslow’s Table and Vicia St. Louis

On average, third-party delivery apps such as DoorDash, Grubhub and Postmates charge restaurants a 30 percent commission in an industry where profit margins hover at 3 to 5 percent

Brian Coley of Coley’s American Bistro and The Brassy Bird in Columbia, Missouri, is begging you: Order delivery directly through restaurants instead of third-party apps.

“We just started using third-party delivery services at the onset of the pandemic, and my relationship with them is pretty simple: They promote our product and deliver the food. The options at each company are different, but they structure their commissions based on a few things: There’s a delivery commission, there’s a marketing commission and then there’s just credit card processing fees, which are pretty standard. But the marketing commission is what gets me, and gets a lot of restaurants – that’s the biggest chunk. So, if you are a Grubhub customer and you get on your Grubhub app and you start scrolling through it because you’re hungry and you find Coley’s or you find The Brassy Bird and you decide to do business, Grubhub is saying, ‘We brought you that customer because they were on our platform.

We did the marketing, so you owe us for that.’ They take 20 percent and then the delivery is another 10 percent on that, so roughly 30 percent of every dollar goes back to Grubhub. And then they turn around and they charge the customer delivery fees. It’s crazy! But they also have specific links that we can embed on our website, so when you click on the link to order delivery, it routes you to Grubhub, but then I’m only paying the 10 percent commission on the delivery and I don’t pay the extra 20 percent on marketing. I’m just trying to educate our customer base. A lot of people these days talk about supporting local. We’ve been very fortunate with our customers going out of their way to make sure we’re doing alright, but I think that a lot of people don’t realize that there’s a huge difference in where their money goes based on how they order that delivery service. So we want everybody to know: Go through your restaurant’s website and try to order delivery starting there.”

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

37

Abbey-Jo Eans of Happy Gillis and Columbus Park Ramen Shop in Kansas City wants to know – how much would you pay for a sandwich?

Tipped employees in Missouri earn a minimum wage of $5.15 “As the minimum wage continues to rise, more and more establishments seem to be doing some ‘creative’ interpretation of what a minimum wage is. For 24 years, my starting wage has always been above minimum wage.

Steve Gontram

Every time it goes up, my starting wage goes up. I do this

5 Star Burgers

because I am committed to running a sustainable business.

st. louis

Sustainability means paying my staff a living wage, and that is reflected in our cost of doing business. For a similar counter

“

In order to achieve more equitable

“Do I think we need to raise the minimum

service-style business to pay their counter workers $5 an hour,

wage and pay everyone what they are

expecting customer tips to make up the difference, to me, is

to either remove the restrictions on tip

worth? Yes, absolutely. Can I afford to pay

outrageous and, frankly, very tough to compete against. It is

sharing or get rid of tipping altogether.

for it? No way. I also believe healthcare

my belief that when customers tip at these types of places,

should be available to everyone, but again,

they are not aware that the worker is being paid the tipped

who’s paying for that? The government

minimum wage – nearly half of the general minimum – and

is going to have to chip in to make this a reality. I would be selling sandwiches for $20 to $30 at Happy Gillis to pay for

their sandwich, even if it meant that the person making it was paid a living wage,

kitchen workers. The reason for this is the inequitable tip system. Even at a reduced hourly base wage (the so-called

is extra, in addition to their minimum wage – a nod to good

‘tipped minimum wage’), a server can

sure at some of these places, the staff makes enough in tips

Most people would not pay $20 for

Very simply, servers in a restaurant make nearly twice as much hourly as

depends on tips to pay the rest of their wage. For me, a tip service and appreciation, especially during a pandemic. I am

health insurance for all of my employees.

pay in the restaurant industry, we need

to perhaps even be above minimum wage; otherwise, I assume the business makes up the difference. Either way, if customers

easily outearn line cooks and sous chefs.

This pay inequality persists because restaurant owners cannot mandate tip sharing with back-of-the-house workers.

Removing this obstruction would allow

had access to sick days and mental and

care about pay equity, they might care about this ‘loophole.’”

owners to make the pay in our businesses

physical healthcare. People just aren’t

Leigh Lockhart

system of tipping altogether. Admittedly,

willing to do it – we have trained them that

Main Squeeze

our labor and our food should be cheap.”

columbia, missouri

more equitable. Or, let’s remove the this is a movement that is proving difficult to catch on. In eliminating tipping, the restaurant needs to make up for that lost income through higher prices and/or

business as usual

service charges, both of which –

, “This raises a lot of questions about how restaurants

should come back after the pandemic and what the industry should do to take care of their staffs under normal circumstances. What does it say about the U.S.’ largest private-sector employer that they can operate without paying people a living wage? Is that how restaurants should run? I, personally, don’t think so. The pandemic has highlighted how fragile restaurants already were, and now they’re even more fragile. I don’t know what the right answer is but I don’t think going back to business as usual is going to cut it. The people that we serve as guests need to start understanding that making food and serving it costs a lot of money. If restaurants could raise their prices a certain percentage, they could operate while paying their staff a living wage. Restaurant jobs should be looked at as valid careers. They’re incredibly difficult and take a huge number Drake Tillman, Emilia springfield, Missouri of skills to be able to do well.”

38

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

regardless if the final bill is the same as if it were tipped upon – seems to be a big mental roadblock for most American diners. That said, a no-tip system of dining ought to be considered as there are huge benefits, such as reducing incidents of racism, sexism, harassment and exploitation of labor in the workplace and the elimination of financial insecurity amongst staff. Ultimately, a level playing field is required to make a tip-free system work, so all restaurants would need to be on board.

”

Mai Lee and

I don’t know what the future holds, but I do know the only way to get back is, unfortunately, “ maybe we’ll have to raise prices. We’re working on trying to figure out how to protect ourselves for

Nudo House

the future because the scary thing is, I looked at this and realized that our livelihood could be gone at

St. Louis

any minute, no matter how many years of existence and everything that we’ve done. Right now, I have

Qui Tran

”

to figure out how to come back and survive because if I fail, I fail 50 people and their families.

photo by gregg goldman / ma r c h 2 02 1

39

Restaurants have spent months pivoting – now it’s time for us to do the same.

Cassidy Rollins of Progress in Springfield, Missouri, explains how.

“Change in the restaurant industry comes in a few forms. Restaurants have learned what they can live without and what they absolutely need to keep going. We have learned how to pivot our concepts to meet the needs of the public. We have learned how to make safe, comfortable environments for our guests and team. We have learned that we need strong, supportive leadership and more resources for team members such as childcare, mental health services, affordable healthcare and transportation. These are all achievable steps toward change with the help of our communities. Choose a local restaurant rather than a chain restaurant. Understand that a lot of work and thought have been put into the meal you are about to experience. Trust that we have made a safe, comfortable environment for you to enjoy yourselves in. Help us keep that environment safe by respecting the space and wearing a mask, especially when communicating with staff. Make reservations and be on time for them. It all comes down to support, trust and respect.”

Jill Cockson of Swordfish Tom’s and Drastic Measures in Kansas City sees big potential in small spaces.

Shanita McAfee-Bryant The Prospect Kansas City

“of expectations on both

There needs to be a shift

ends, from the restaurant owner’s standpoint and the

“We need to look at the costs within our own businesses to see where else we are bleeding and fix that, so guests don’t carry the entire burden.

We can’t fix everything by just raising our prices.

One easy way to cut costs is to look at the floor plan of your restaurant. How big is it? The goal for me is to make more money on fewer people, which is the opposite of where the industry has been heading with larger venues that can hold more people. That model may work on weekends, but not seven days a week. That is an old and broken model. Our industry needs to go back to smaller footprints, running more efficient labor and more sustainable math-driven models.”

”

customer’s standpoint.

Chef Carlos R. Mortera closed one of his restaurants, Poi-O, during the pandemic, but he plans to operate a new version out of a former Subway drive-thru in Kansas City, Kansas.

40

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

“I think there will be a boom in chef-driven drive-thru restaurants going forward. The model of service for fast-casual needs to change to make people feel safe.”

“I know everyone thinks we should blow up the house and start over as an industry, but rebuilding each restaurant from within is going to take time, cash flow and figuring out how to use labor correctly.

There is no simple solution; the issue has multiple layers. It is a huge financial burden, and no restaurant can just work through all of these issues at once. You are asking hospitality people here in this country to reinvent the entire wheel by themselves.”

Megan Garrelts

Kansas City

Rye

The restaurant industry is notoriously grueling, but most independent restaurants lack the resources to get their employees help when needed. Kansas City bar consultant Laura Wagner believes employees deserve an avenue through which they can be open and honest.

“One way that chains do a better job than independent restaurants is that they are more likely to have an HR department and a process to raise a complaint, and they provide training programs that people are required to go through before they are promoted. Corporate chain restaurants are looked down upon, but having systems or even an employee handbook is not a bad thing. In most independently owned restaurants, there is no channel where you can be honest and provide feedback without repercussions. There is no HR department. There is just your boss, and if they’re the one you have the issue with, your only choice is to suck it up or leave. Part of my job in this industry is to talk to bar owners and help them understand the importance of a healthy and happy work environment. Investing in this type of training can help save the business money in the long term because people will want to come to work and be part of their team.”

Melinda Burrows, CEC, CCA, of Hickory Hills Country Club in Springfield, Missouri, encourages chefs to ask themselves the hard questions to ultimately create a better kitchen culture.

After two decades in the restaurant industry, Caitlin Corcoran, former owner and managing partner of Ça Va and a 2018 James Beard Foundation Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership fellow, left it altogether.

What would it take to bring her back?

“ If I were to start a new independent restaurant or bar today, I would…

Be transparent with food prices:

bPeople have to realize that

ethical food costs more. The small local farmers that I used at Ça Va don’t get the same kind of government subsides as large commodity farmers. Food is political, and we have to fight for what we think is right.

Compile an open-source

, “Kitchen culture falls on the shoulders of the chefs who

lead our kitchens. The questions chefs need to ask themselves are: Am I committed to mentorship? Am I committed to giving back to another what was given to me? Are my people following my lead? Do I adhere to equity and fairness, or am I a ‘rules for thee but not for me’ type of person? Am I a good listener? Our actions have a profound effect on people’s lives, and I think we need to hold ourselves to a higher standard.

We should also have a clear behavior code. If you don’t have an employee manual or a playbook for how you expect your staff to behave, how can they be held accountable? A mission and vision statement creates a culture of unity within the workplace – I think that’s very important as well, to have a common goal that we’re all working on. We may have differing opinions about other things, but we can all agree that this is what we do in the kitchen.”

restaurant handbook:

bWe need to create and share

job descriptions, employee handbooks and welcome packets that are available to any restaurant to download. We could put them on Google Drive, but the laws are different in each state. These are basic things that most companies have, but the restaurant industry

Eliminate tipping:

bI could never open a place that

has the kind of wage disparity or fosters racism and sexism like tipping does. I would have a starting wage set at $15 an hour.

Fight for healthcare – and mental health care – for all:

bWe need the federal

government to step in and provide healthcare because small business owners can’t pay for it. I would also want to create a mental health credit that employees could use to take time off – maybe even provide money or a fund for a therapist when one was needed. We really need to define what work-life balance looks like in this industry. For me, it looks like eight glasses of water, three meals and eight hours of sleep a day.

End the epidemic of sexual harassment

doesn’t.

and assault:

Create a union for

bHaving access to HR help is

people who work in this industry

something that needs to happen, and who that HR firm works for has to be a conversation – some are there to protect the bad actors

from predatory employers.

instead of the accusers.

service workers:

bIdeally, this would help protect

”

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

41

Good

▪ Lenexa, KS

Honey-Apricot-Goat Cheese Gyoza with Almonds Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by anne mauldin

Both simple and complex, local and global, dumplings are incredibly versatile. Various incarnations are found around the world, including Japanese gyoza – which happen to be a specialty at Chewology in Lenexa, Kansas. You can’t go wrong with the pork and cabbage or the beef and kimchi, but we recommend the vegetarian option stuffed with goat cheese, local honey, apricots and almonds for a sweet and savory bite. Garnished with lime zest and green onions, the handcrafted pockets of dough will make you wonder why you haven’t been eating cheese in dumplings all along.

8750 Penrose Lane (inside Lenexa Public Market), Lenexa, Kansas, chewologykc.com

42

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1

to-go

f e at u r in g o u r f av o r it e ta k e o u t

“Liberty Fruit has provided Story with high quality produce since the restaurant opened almost ten years ago. In addition to providing outstanding produce, Liberty Fruit has excellent customer service and reliable delivery. They are always able to locate the esoteric specialty ingredients we request and deliver them in a timely manner.”

Carl Thorne-Thomsen | chef & owner of Story Restaurant | KC

TRUST

| PARTNERSHIP |

SUPPORT

“Liberty Fruit always has my back.

I can come up with the most absurd requests and our account manager Andy makes it happen. I trust them to ensure my menu is always perfect and my customers are happy.”

Jamie Washington | chef of Sporting KC

David Wooding | chef of Ya Ya’s EuroBistro | Wichita

K ANSAS CIT Y

“At Compass Minerals, we serve MLS and US Soccer teams and athletes. We have always been able to depend on Steve, our account manager, and the quality and freshness we receive from Liberty Fruit. The delivery drivers are always courteous, on schedule and cooperative with our COVID-19 protocols.

We have had a great experience with Liberty since we opened the facility in 2018, and look forward to continuing the partnership we have with them.”

|

ST. LOUIS

|

SPRINGFIELD

|

COLUMBIA

/ ma r c h 2 02 1

43

44

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 1