March 2022 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

march 2022

Everyone has a favorite. See how yours stacks up.

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sustainable. local. family farm raised.

Buy Local Food The food we consume tells a story. We find the best, most sustainable and ethical food comes from local family farmers and local businesses that source their ingredients from local producers. Missouri has a wealth of independent family farmers producing healthy and delicious food year round.

buy family farm pork Patchwork Family Farms Growing Standards We raise pork the traditional way, you can taste the difference! • Livestock must be owned by independent family farmers. • Synthetic growth promoters are prohibited. • No sub-therapeutic and/or non-therapeutic antibiotics are allowed.

• Animals must receive adequate amounts of sunshine, fresh air and quality feed necessary to maintain good health. • Animals are raised with social responsibility, using environmental stewardship and sustainable growing practices.

Since 1993, Missouri Rural Crisis Center has been organizing Patchwork Family Farms, a cooperative of Missouri hog producers that raise hogs the traditional way, while maintaining a rural way of life and supporting our local economies.

#BuyLocalCoMo

Did you know that Missouri is #2 in the USA for the number of family farms and #2 for the number of cattle producers? Missouri’s family farm roots run deep and YOU can be a part of it! Every time you source your meal from local family farmers, you support our state’s deep history of independent livestock producers! Missouri is also rich with local restaurants and businesses that source from local farmers to provide our community with the highest quality restaurant dining experience.

Scan code to find restaurants and grocers that source from Patchwork Family Farms

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26 sandwiches to swear by From bánh mì to burgers to BLTs, we’re rounding up some must-try sandwiches.

/ 11 / the Dish Parrino's Special at Queen City Deli

/ 12 / Hometown hits

Lee Street Deli, The Peanut and The Fulton Sub Station

/ 13 / one on one Jimmie Milton of The Almighty Sando Shop

/ 14 /

shop here Shirk's Country Market

/ 15 /

midwest made Mustard

/ 16 /

mystery shopper Green Chutney

/ 19 /

one on one Sheri Parr of The Brick

/ 20 / healthy appetite Spring Veggie Toast Bar

/ 22 / quick fix Faux Fish Sandwich with Tartar Sauce

/ 23 / culinary library

Armin Grozdanic of Yapi Mediterranean Subs and Sandwiches

/ 24 / sugar rush Raspberry & Cream Brioche Sandwich

/ 25 / one on one Tamara Landeiro of Havana’s Cuisine

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▶ COMO | 03/03-03/06 | True/False Film Festival Thu., March 3 through Sun., March 6; passes vary in price and benefits from $50 to $995; truefalse.org True/False is four days of cutting-edge nonfiction film, immersive art, live music and wildly imaginative parties. Transforming downtown Columbia, Missouri, into a unique wonderland, True/False Film Festival invites you to reimagine reality.

▶ stl | 03/12 | Schnucks Cooks: Faux Fish Sandwich with Tartar Sauce Sat., March 12, 3 to 6pm; $35; Zoom; nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school Join us as we learn to make a faux fish sandwich with tartar sauce, crab-stuffed hush puppies with Green Goddess dressing, roasted tomato mac ‘n’ cheese and chocolate chess pie. We’ll learn to pan-fry and deep-fry and also explore techniques for classic sauce-making and simple custards.

▶ stl | 04/21 | St. Louis Post-Dispatch Great Taste Thu., April 21, 7pm; general admission $45, VIP $65; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; STLtoday.com/ourevents Explore the Saint Louis Science Center after hours while sampling from St. Louis restaurants, including those featured in the 2022 edition of Ian Froeb's STL100. Enjoy live music, browse items from local vendors and more.

▶ stl | 05/22 | Feast Face-Off Sun., May 22, 1pm; $12; 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, Affton, Missouri; STLtoday.com/ourevents Join Feast and the Missouri Pork Association for an epic face-off featuring restaurants from across the state. Champions will be crowned, barbecue samples will be eaten and we’ll toast to the winners of our barbecue bracket with cocktails and live music. / ma r c h 2 02 2

Inspired Local Food Culture /

march

2022

Volume 12 / Issue 03 EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

media Strategist

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara

Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen Springfield Contributing Editor

Tessa Cooper

Distribution

Columbia Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Jessica Vaughn Martin

midwest

editorial intern

Charlotte Renner fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

GET MORE FROM YOUR OIL SOYLEIC offers traceability from ﬁeld to fryer. ®

V ISIT S O Y L E I C .C O M TO L E AR N M O R E .

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Corin Cesaric, Kala Elkinton, Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Lisa Nahach, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Zach Bauman, Tyler Beck, Keith Borgmeyer, Sarah Conroy, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Robert Grimm, Dean Groover, Scott McDonald, Ben Nickelson, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, J. Pollack Photography, Amy Ray, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Alistair Tutton Contributing illustrator

Carson McNamara

S PONS O R ED BY UNITED S OYBEAN B O A R D

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover The BLT at The Peanut in Kansas City by Anna Petrow table of contents The Pastrami at Nomad in St. Louis by J.Pollack Photography

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Kenrick’s is the best place to make any meal or occasion

DELICIOUS.

editor’s letter

n the surface, “What’s your favorite sandwich?” may seem like a simple question, but putting this month’s feature package together proved it’s hard to find a single answer. Rather than trying to compile a definitive list of the region’s best sandwiches, we turned to local industry pros to share where they go when a craving strikes (p. 26). St. Louis’ longstanding Gioia’s Deli is famous for its Hot Salami sandwich, for instance, but when owners Alex and Amanda Donley are off the clock, they’re ordering pastrami and St. Pauls. The Local Pig and Pigwich co-owner Alex Pope, meanwhile, is on a hot chicken kick – flip to p. 34 to read about his current favorite in Kansas City.

in St. Louis and The Almighty Sando Shop in Springfield, Missouri, as well as stalwarts such as The Peanut – said to possess the oldest continual liquor license in Kansas City – and Booches, which opened in downtown Columbia, Missouri, in 1884.

Narrowing down just one favorite sandwich is the hardest part (personally, I have several), but the question provided a framework for which to spotlight a range of sammies new and old. Throughout this issue, you’ll read about newcomers like The Banh Mi Shop

Until next time,

At the end of the day, we all know there’s no right or wrong answer to the question, and that’s part of the fun. I think Natasha Bailey, lead cook at Thelma’s Kitchen in Kansas City, might have put it best – of the Il Saro sandwich from Bella Napoli, she says, “It is the comfort I need on my worst and best days.” Whether you’re reading about an old favorite or discovering something new, I hope you’ll find a sandwich here that can provide just that.

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com

4324 Weber Road St. Louis, MO 63123

314-631-2440 kenricks.com

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PROMOTION

SPRINGTIME GREENS March immediately makes me think of all things green. Not just because of St. Patrick’s Day and shamrocks but it means we are finally coming out of the winter season and heading into spring. The grass is no longer covered in snow and is starting to turn back to its vibrant green color just in time for the garden preparations and early seed planting. Some of the first plants we get to enjoy from the garden are spring greens like spinach, lettuce and fresh herbs. I love being able to toss together a quick salad with these tender greens, but they also seem to find their way into most of my meals this time of year. With greens top of mind, it gave me inspiration for this month’s recipe. The arugula adds a peppery flavor to the fritta that pairs well with the herby pesto and salmon. Adding salmon is a great way to boost the nutrition profile of this dish. The current dietary guidelines recommend eating seafood 2-3 times a week, which most of us are not meeting. Finding some of my favorite dishes like frittatas, salads, tacos and wraps to add seafood to are a few easy ways to get more of these Good For You proteins into my diet. If you are new to making seafood at home or looking for some fresh ideas to add to your meal routine, pick up the newest edition of Simply Schnucks complete with over 10 simple and delicious ways to enjoy seafood. You are sure to find a few favorites that will pair perfectly with your springtime greens.

SPINACH PESTO & SALMON FRITTATA SERVES 6

SPINACH PESTO 1 cup packed fresh spinach

SALMON FRITTATA 8 large eggs

2 cups loosely packed arugula

½ cup packed fresh basil leaves 1 Tbsp pine nuts

¼ cup milk

8 oz fresh salmon, cooked and flaked

¼ cup packed fresh parsley

1 Tbsp olive oil

4 oz goat cheese, crumbled

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 tsp lemon juice

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 garlic clove, chopped

½ cup red onion, diced ¼ tsp crushed red pepper

PREPARATION In a food processor or blender, combine all pesto ingredients; pulse until almost smooth. In a medium bowl whisk together eggs, milk and 1/3 cup prepared pesto. Set aside. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Add onion and crushed red pepper sautéeing until onion begins to soften. Add arugula and cook 1-2 minutes or until wilted. Pour in egg mixture and cook, stirring gently until eggs are partially set, 2–3 minutes. Add salmon and cheese; stir until combined. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until center is set, 15-20 minutes. Allow to rest 5 minutes. Cut and drizzle slices with remaining pesto.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

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the dish

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▪ springfield, mo

Parrino’s Special at Queen City Deli story and photography by Tessa Cooper

Longtime Springfield restaurateur Jay Parrino opened Queen City Deli more than a decade ago, and today, only one sandwich sports the title of Parrino’s Special. Parrino designed the sandwich on a sturdy foundation of garlic bread and tops it with a trio of meats and a house salad. Prosciutto, salami and roast beef set the stage in harmony, while the house salad – made with vinegar and oil, mixed greens, red onions, chopped pimentos and Parmesan – adds a dynamic kick to the sandwich. “The reason why that sandwich is so good is because of the ingredients and the way they all meld together,” Parrino says. “It's got a great mouthfeel.” Queen City Deli also houses a small retail section, so you can take home Parrino’s holy-grail ingredients, including his signature line of bottled sauces, housemade meatballs and sausages, fresh deli meats and carefully selected cheeses. 1647 E. Sunshine St., Springfield, Missouri, queencitydeli.com

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the dish

hometown hits

These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

shop here

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Although eight locations of The Peanut now operate across Kansas City, it’s the original on Main Street that’s steeped in history, booze and bacon grease. In operation since 1933, it is said to possess the oldest continual liquor license in Kansas City and is also rumored to have served as a speakeasy during Prohibition. Today, The Peanut is better known for serving up ice-cold beer and hot and spicy Buffalo chicken wings, but the bar’s true claim to fame is its BLT.

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

sugar rush

KANSAS CITY

The Peanut Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow

Cooked to order, The Peanut’s BLT starts with two pieces of whole-wheat bread that are toasted then swiped with mayo, sprinkled with salt and black pepper and topped with red onion, lettuce, tomato and shredded Cheddar cheese. Four to five slices of quality bacon are cooked on the flattop griddle until crispy yet chewy, then mounded in a rosette on top of the sandwich. After the final piece of bread is added, the whole thing goes into the broiler for another second or so. By the time it hits your table, the bacon is perfectly crisp, the cheese is soft and the bread is still toasty. Widely imitated but never duplicated, one of the best BLTs in Kansas City can be found at The Peanut. 5000 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, peanutkc.com ▲ columbia, MO

Lee Street Deli Written by Corin Cesaric photography by aaron ottis

◀ FULTON, MO

The Fulton Sub Station

With a tagline of “It’s worth the trip” and menu items including the THC (turkey, ham and cream cheese with honey mustard and pickles), it’s not hard to guess the theme behind Lee Street Deli. Upon entering the small restaurant located in Columbia’s East Campus neighborhood, you can usually find a staff member to your left whipping up signature dishes such as the Magic CRB, featuring chicken, bacon, ranch, Provolone and Magic Sauce (a spicy chipotle ranch). If you’re craving something a bit more classic, try the Juicyburger, a housemade sloppy joe that has been a staple since the restaurant – originally a corner grocery store called Lee Street Shop – opened in 1927.

Although the vintage car memorabilia and corrugated metal on the walls hint at its former life as a storage facility for Pike Oil, today, the building that houses The Fulton Sub Station is best known for slinging classic and creative sub sandwiches. Available on housemade white, wheat or rye bread, subs include tried-and-true favorites such as Buffalo chicken, turkey club, roast beef and Cheddar and a classic BLT. Don’t miss the housemade brisket, served on specialty subs including the signature Ful-Ton Sub with smoked ham, turkey, brisket, American and Swiss cheeses, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. If sandwiches don’t strike your fancy, the menu also includes soups, salads, pizza, nachos and a chili cheese dog.

603 Lee St., Columbia, Missouri, eatlsd.com

102 N. Ravine St., Fulton, Missouri, fultonsubstation.com

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Written by Corin Cesaric / photography by aaron ottis

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

springfield, mo.

with Jimmie Milton / chef-co-owner, the almighty sando shop How did working in the restaurant industry in New Orleans impact your culinary career? I worked at Boucherie in New Orleans. I’m a culinary school dropout, but it just gave me the skills I needed in the kitchen and a baseline for French technique-type stuff. I thought I knew how to cook before, but when I moved to New Orleans, I got taught. New Orleans gave me that bougie factor – it gave me a chance to eat at nice restaurants and see how they run. I’m really grateful for my time there. What is one of your favorite food memories from the Philippines? I left the islands when I was 9 years old, but for years there had been a Vietnamese refugee camp a mile or two down the road from where I lived. My parents would take me, and I remember being exposed to Vietnamese cuisine there. It stuck with me because Vietnamese food is one of my favorite types of food. I remember going there and eating bánh mì and pho. They would also do this thing where they would squeeze all this juice out of fresh sugarcane and put it on top of ice, kind of like Hawaiian ice.

Written by Tessa Cooper / photography by dean groover

Jimmie Milton is a self-proclaimed “purveyor of delicious sandwiches,” so it’s safe to say he takes the art of the sammie seriously. Along with Timothy Labrie, he co-owns The Almighty Sando Shop, a food truck that serves New American-style sandwiches in Springfield, Missouri. Milton grew up in the Philippines and moved to Seymour, Missouri, at age 9, but he still has vivid memories of the flavors and food textures he experienced there. Working in the restaurant industry in New Orleans amplified his affinity for Creole food, and the menu at The Almighty Sando Shop displays both Southern and Asian influences. After a brief winter hiatus, the food truck is gearing up to return to daily operations later this month, but you can book it for a catering event in the meantime.

In your opinion, what is the key to a good sandwich? The bread is the key; it’s like 60 to 70 percent of it. There’s a lot of local bread you can source from around here – the purveyors have options. But I make sure to source my bread from Kenner, which is right outside of New Orleans, and we get our burger bread from Neighbor’s Mill [Bakery & Café], and they do an amazing job. And then to me, a good sandwich is not a dry sandwich. It has to have sauce or some moisture. How do you define a New American-style sandwich? In my opinion, it’s got to be super unhealthy, and super stunty, like big ridiculous. It has to be Instagram-worthy. I call it stoner food. To me, Hi-Pointe Drive-In in St. Louis would be a perfect example of New American. facebook.com/pg/TheAlmightySandoShop

The Almighty Burg is a take on an Oklahoma Smash Patty, also referred to as a Depression Burger. It features smoky garlic-bacon mayo, Milton’s personal favorite sandwich is his riff on a blackened

With an island flair, the Yaya Papaya sandwich

cheese, tomato and lettuce doused in wine vinegar.

shrimp po’boy. The Asian Cajun sandwich stands out with

is Milton’s way of paying homage to the

unexpected ingredient combinations, such as ginger and tomato

Philippines. The papaya relish gives deli

Make it vegan with the

chutney, and embodies his affinity for Asian and Creole cuisines.

chicken a sweet and sour flavor profile.

Impossible Foods option. / ma r c h 2 02 2

hometown hits

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MYSTERY SHOPPER

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

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S h i r k’

the dish

u C o ntr

Build Your Own Sandwich y

r Ma ket

Oatmeal loaf Local lettuce & tomatoes

▶ Centertown, mo.

Jalapeño and habanero Cheddar

Shirk’s Country Market Written by Lisa Nahach / photography by tyler beck

Behind the sandwich counter at Shirk’s Country Market in Centertown, Missouri, a baker removes oversized loaves of bread from metal pans. Made fresh in-house each day, the bread – available in oatmeal, rye, white and wheat – makes a delicious

Bacon

base for Shirk’s popular build-your-own sandwiches. Customers can tap into their culinary creativity by selecting their bread, meat, cheese, condiments and other accouterments, such as local lettuce from The Salad Ranch in Versailles, Missouri, and tomatoes grown by the local Mennonite community, including Ervin Shirk, a cousin of co-owner Randy Shirk. The sandwiches are just one reason customers come from across central Missouri to visit Shirk’s, a family-owned and -operated business now in its second generation. In addition to the sandwich counter, from-scratch bakery and on-site greenhouse, expansion has allowed Shirk’s to grow its selection of bulk

Cajun-style turkey breast

food offerings, produce and other merchandise from about 50 small businesses, including cheese curds from Hemme Brothers Farmstead Creamery, eggs from Martin Family Farms and coffee from Lakota Coffee Co. “I like to support people who are trying to make a go of something,” Randy says. “That’s what we’re all about.” 341 Route U, Centertown, Missouri, shirkscountrymarket.com

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Mayonnaise

midwest made

Gourmet Mustard

These locally made mustards have been known to convert even the condiment’s top critics. Written by Kala Elkinton and Heather Riske photography by robert grimm

Fresh, high-quality ingredients are paramount for Helga Gourmet Mustard in Kansas City. The Sweet Heat mustard is the most popular and versatile flavor, used as a dip, marinade, sauce, glaze and key ingredient for everyone’s favorite deviled eggs. The garlic mustard is made with whole cloves of fresh garlic, and the Smokin’ Hot includes chunks of fresh jalapeños and a habanero kick. All of the flavors are available in 16 states across the U.S. and can also be purchased at helgafinefoods.com.

The Grandpa Spencer’s Gourmet Mustards original Sweet and Spicy mustard was developed as a family recipe in 1935 and finally sold at the St. Charles farmers’ market for the first time in 2010. Since then, the team has developed horseradish mustard and the award-winning Hot and Spicy mustard. All three mustards are available year-round at Lake Saint Louis Farmers and Artists Market, as well as businesses including Fresh Thyme Market at City Foundry STL and Main Street Marketplace in St. Charles. grandpaspencers.com.

The three small-batch honey mustards from Raymore, Missouri-based Just Enough Heat range in heat levels. The mildest of the bunch, the baconbrown sugar honey mustard is great over sausages, pulled pork or even fries. Made with jalapeños and chipotles, the slow-smoked jalapeño honey mustard is slightly less sweet with a good burn – owner Isham Nelson considers it his go-to. The ghost pepper honey mustard, meanwhile, is best reserved for pepper heads; it’s the hottest item Nelson currently produces. justenoughheat.com

Grab the grill; this Sweet Jalapeño mustard from Jailhouse Jalapeño Brew in Holts Summit, Missouri, has a sweet heat from its namesake jalapeños with a tangy zip from mustard seeds. It’s great for glazing pork tenderloins, upgrading potato salad and even creating your favorite gourmet burgers at home. The mustard is available in markets all across the state; find all locations to purchase at jailbrew.com. / ma r c h 2 02 2

the dish

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What Is It?

Green chutney is one of the most commonly used Indian chutneys out there, its universal appeal the result of a magical combination of fresh mint, cilantro, garlic, cumin and chiles. It hits every note: spicy, sweet, fresh and tart, all at once, but never goes too far over the line in any given direction, making it the ideal condiment for nearly anything you want to throw it on. What Do I Do With It?

Traditionally used for pakoras, samosas or aloo tikki chole (spiced potato patties in chickpea curry), green chutney also brightens up eggs, burgers, wraps or sandwiches. Use it alone, stir into yogurt as a dip for vegetables and snacks or try it as a sauce for fish, poultry, beef or roasted vegetables.

The secret to green chutney is chaat masala, an addictive spice blend well worth seeking out online or at an international market.

My favorite way to eat green chutney is on a Bombay Sandwich, a traditional street food with a few variations: one is a summery cucumberand-tomato number, while the other is grilled and filled with potatoes. My version is a hybrid that reimagines the best of both: You’ll get crunch, a little heat, gooey cheese and a pop of fresh flavor all at once. You can buy green chutney at any international market, and the jarred version is fresher than you’d think, but I like to make my own. The ingredients are simple to find, and you’ll have a vibrant green sauce in under 5 minutes.

Its unique flavor profile is key to bringing both this chutney and this sandwich together.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

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Bombay Sandwiches with Green Chutney Serves 4 Green Chutney 2½ cups fresh cilantro leaves, rough chopped and loosely packed 1 cup fresh mint leaves, rough chopped and loosely packed 1 medium serrano chile, seeded and chopped 2 medium garlic cloves, chopped 4 Tbsp unsweetened coconut flakes juice of 1 lemon 1 Tbsp fresh grated ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp chaat masala 1 tsp kosher salt 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil (or other flavorless oil) ½ cup water Bombay Sandwiches ¾ cup green chutney (recipe follows) 8 slices sourdough bread ½ red onion, sliced in very thin rings and soaked in ice water for 10 minutes ½ English cucumber, diced 8 slices Monterey Jack 3 to 4 oz ridged potato chips chaat masala, to taste ½ cup ghee / preparation – green chutney / Add all ingredients except water into the blender; pulse to break down ingredients and blend. Add water and blend with motor running until mixture is smooth. Transfer to sealed jar to chill in refrigerator at least 1 hour or until ready to use; mixture will thicken slightly as it chills. The chutney will last about a week in the refrigerator. / preparation – bombay sandwiches / Spread 1 rounded Tbsp of green chutney each over 4 slices of sourdough; top each with onion rings and diced cucumber, being careful not to overfill. Top each slice of bread with 1 slice cheese, followed by 2 to 3 layers of potato chips and remaining cheese slices; sprinkle with chaat masala. Spread remaining 4 bread slices generously with ghee on one side and with 1 rounded Tbsp of green chutney on the other. Lay slices, ghee side up, on top of sandwich to close. Heat 1 Tbsp ghee in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Working in batches as needed, add sandwiches to pan and cook one side until deep golden and cheese has begun to melt. Carefully flip sandwiches over, pressing gently once flipped to seal everything together. Continue to cook until deep golden on remaining side. / to serve / Let cool just slightly so components stay together; cut diagonally with sharp knife and transfer to plates. Serve hot.

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P R O M OT I O N

PRESENTED BY

BUBBLE AND FIZZ: FERMENTED FOODS ARE GREAT FOR THE GUT AND BEYOND S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T B Y K AT H E R I N E L E W I S PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

KIMCHI

KOMBUCHA

SAUERKRAUT

YOGURT

Like sauerkraut, kimchi is cabbage that’s been salted and left to ferment in a sealed container. But this Korean staple, usually made with Napa (Chinese) cabbage, is also infused with heat from red chili flakes, and it finishes with a zip of ginger and garlic. The cabbage itself is an excellent source of fiber, and the benefits only rack up from there: Kimchi is loaded with calcium, carotenoids and capsaicin, not to mention vitamins A, B1, B2 and C. Not a fan of cabbage? Kimchi can be made with other vegetables such as radishes, cucumbers, scallions and mustard greens, which also have lots of good nutrients.

Although many Americans have only recently come to know kombucha, it’s been a part of Chinese culture for more than 2,000 years. Any kind of tea can be used as the basis for this tart, bubbly beverage. Kombucha’s fermentation kicks off with a starter called SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), and the tea will be ready to drink anytime from a week to a month later, depending on taste preference. Whether homemade or store bought, kombucha is a boon to the digestive and immune systems.

Sauerkraut — German for “sour cabbage” — is shredded, salted, fermented cabbage. The resulting probiotics may help improve the gastrointestinal system and skin conditions. Sauerkraut is high in iron, fiber, antioxidants and vitamins C and K, all for just a few calories per cup. Its tangy taste makes it a perfect counterpoint for heavy meat dishes, and it lends a satisfying texture to sandwiches. To get the most out of this nutritional powerhouse, look for fresh sauerkraut rather than the canned kind made with vinegar.

Fermented foods like miso and kimchi are enjoying unprecedented popularity these days, but yogurt has been mainstream for so long it’s easy to forget that it’s a fermented product, too. There’s some evidence that yogurt made with live cultures can help treat all kinds of digestive issues, including lactose intolerance, IBD, constipation and diarrhea. Yogurt is also a terrific source of calcium, magnesium and potassium, all of which contribute to bone health and increased immunity.

SERVES 4 3 cups cooked white rice 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup kimchi, chopped 1 cup green beans ½ cup edamame 3 green onions, sliced (green and white parts separated) ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup kimchi juice (from jar) 1 Tbsp sesame oil 1 Tbsp rooster sauce (optional)

YOUR HEALTH TIPS The gut is having a moment. Food ads and labels constantly trumpet the presence of things like probiotics and live cultures, and how they contribute to flora and microbiomes and gut health. It’s easy to get lost in the details, so it helps to remember a few key points — starting with the fact that your gut is already home to probiotics. “Probiotics naturally live in your digestive tract, forming an important part of what’s called the ‘microbiome,’ or the collection of various tiny organisms that keep you healthy,” says Yikyung Park, ScD, a Washington University epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center. “Sometimes the microbiome is damaged, usually by the use of antibiotic medications or through an unhealthy diet. You can help maintain a healthy microbiome by taking probiotic supplement pills, but the safest

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PREPARATION

way to consume probiotics is through food.” And fermented foods — that is, foods made by introducing gut-friendly bacteria — are among the very best sources of them. Park explains that not all fermented foods and drinks are equally healthy. For example, alcoholic drinks like wine, beer and cider are fermented, but their final products have been stripped of the microorganisms that are so beneficial to good health. On the other hand, “Many other foods also undergo this process without risk of the negative health effects of alcohol,” she says. “Foods like yogurt, sauerkraut, kimchi, tempeh, miso, or drinks like kefir and kombucha, are fermented using either naturally occurring microorganisms — probiotics — or through the addition of live cultures, the kind of good bacteria that turn milk into yogurt.”

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

Kimchi Fried Rice

YIKYUNG PARK, ScD

Washington University epidemiologist at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Park says more research is needed to establish how a healthy gut relates to improved immunity and overall well-being. However, she says, “Studies are beginning to show links to health conditions like obesity, irritable bowel syndrome and even degenerative diseases that affect the brain.”

Heat large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 Tbsp olive oil. Add kimchi and white parts of green onions. Stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Mix soy sauce, kimchi juice, sesame oil and rooster sauce in small bowl and set aside. Add rice to pan with remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil. Stir occasionally and cook until rice begins to crackle, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add green beans and edamame to skillet. Pour sauce mixture over the top and stir to coat rice. Cook another 3 to 5 minutes, allowing rice to crisp up on bottom. Sprinkle with green onion tops. Serve immediately. This recipe is easily adaptable; use whatever vegetables are left in the fridge and adjust to your family’s preferences. It also pairs well with most proteins, such as chicken, beef or shrimp. 428 calories, 13g fat, 66g carbs, 11g protein

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

kansas city

with Sheri Parr / owner, The Brick How did you become the owner of The Brick? I had decided I wanted to own my own bar. My background had been bartending at fast-paced music venues around town, so I bought The Pub in 1999, like, four days after hearing it was for sale. I didn’t change the name of the bar until 2003, because it had such a following with the people who worked at The Kansas City Star across the street. When the regulars came in, they were skeptical but inquisitive because they’d seen their favorite hangout change hands a couple of times. Eventually, I won them over, and they have been wonderful to me and my business ever since. What’s your approach to the food menu? I had decided early on that dive bar food didn’t have to be bad or smothered in gravy. I knew that it could be really good in the right hands. I have been fortunate because I’ve had a lot of creative cooks work with me over the years, and with each of them came new dishes and new menu items. They taught me everything I know about ordering and buying food for the restaurant and how to scale up recipes. But the biggest change to the food menu happened because the neighborhood has changed dramatically from when I first opened my bar in 1999. What people think of when they think of comfort food has also changed, which means we have been able to try a lot of different types of dishes over the years. What sandwiches can you never take off the menu? We have a couple of classic sandwiches that have been on the menu since the beginning. One would be the Cuban chicken sandwich, which is made with spicy pineapple and grilled chicken breast topped with red onion, tomato, greens, Provolone and cumin aïoli on a sourdough roll. The Pubby burger has been served here since 1967 when the bar was still called The Pub; it’s a burger topped with blue cheese, bacon and an onion ring.

Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

Sheri Parr is a Crossroads Arts District O.G. Her dive bar, comfort food restaurant and music venue, The Brick, will celebrate 23 years this year, and she has absolutely reveled in attracting a wide range of customers during that time. Fans range from veteran The Kansas City Star journalists who come in for The Brick’s famous meatloaf sandwich or burger on their lunch break to the younger crowd who stops by in the evenings for an affordable beer and basket of sweet potato fries before catching a local band. For Parr, a love of live music and bartending in equal measure led her to purchase the dive bar, but the fact that she was raised by two good cooks and that her great-grandparents and grandparents ran diners in Kansas City clearly shows where she gets her love of good food.

What is the secret to your success? I had no idea what the Crossroads was going to become back when I bought this building. However, I have also worked extremely hard at figuring out how to make The Brick work here. I knew early on that it took running two very different businesses to make one successful business. In other words, my lunch business pays for us to be open and play live music in the evenings. The upside is I also get to make two different customers very happy. [For example], a regular who worked across the street at The Kansas City Star considered The Brick his place for lunch, and in the evenings his daughter would come in to hear the bands play – she considers this her place, too. 1727 McGee St., Kansas City, Missouri, thebrickkc.com

meatloaf sandwich

“This is the sandwich that was featured on ‘Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.’ We start with our housemade meatloaf (we have a vegan option, too) and add pepper Jack cheese and housemade spicy chipotle ketchup on toasted wheatberry bread.”

hot dogs

“We have a traditional Chicago dog run through the garden and a Houston Frito Pie Dog. Our Kansas City dog has Swiss, sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and a pickle. All of our dogs can be made vegetarian, too.”

crunchy thai chicken salad

“This salad has a lot of texture, flavor and crunch. It features fried chicken tenders tossed in peanut sauce on a bed of lettuce with shredded carrots, cilantro, red pepper, cucumber and peanuts.” / ma r c h 2 02 2

Spring Veggie Toast Bar

the dish

hometown hits

shop here

MYSTERY SHOPPER

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

sugar rush

A toast bar concept displaying a buffet

Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri

of spring veggies, offered freely and

Photography by ben nickelson

enjoyed over sourdough, is the ideal way

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

to celebrate the arrival of spring and all of its spontaneity and surprises.

serves 6 12 2 1 4 1

slices sourdough bread, toasted 4-oz goat cheese logs cup hummus Tbsp (½ stick) butter lb thinly sliced multi-colored radishes honey-glazed roasted rainbow carrots (recipe follows) roasted asparagus (recipe follows) flaky sea salt, for serving

/ preparation / Arrange toast on a platter and place in the center of your table surrounded by various topping options. Garnish the area between each platter with cleaned carrot top greens, fruits and other spring vegetables. Build loaded toasts to taste.

Honey-Glazed Roasted Rainbow Carrots serves 6 2 4 1 2 2 1

Tbsp olive oil Tbsp honey orange, zested and juiced, divided tsp kosher salt lbs rainbow carrots, peeled, green tops trimmed and reserved tsp sesame seeds, toasted

/ preparation / Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large ovensafe skillet over medium heat, combine oil, honey, orange juice and salt; add carrots and toss to coat well. Transfer skillet to oven and bake for 25 minutes or until the carrots are cooked through but still have a crunchy bite. Transfer to platter; sprinkle with orange zest and sesame seeds.

Roasted Asparagus serves 6 1 1 2 1 1 1 ¼

lb asparagus, trimmed Tbsp olive oil garlic cloves, minced small shallot, sliced tsp kosher salt tsp black pepper cup slivered almonds

/ preparation / Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss trimmed asparagus with olive oil, garlic, shallot, salt and pepper. Arrange asparagus in a single layer on a sheet pan. Roast until just tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer to platter and sprinkle slivered almonds over asparagus.

P R O M OT I O N

A LOOK AT CHEF-DRIVEN

HONEYBEE EDIBLES

SPONSORED CONTENT BY ANDREA RICHARD, BRAND AVE. STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING WRITER

A few years ago, chef Dave Owens was intrigued by the emerging medical cannabis industry in Missouri and saw an opportunity to do something with food and fine confections, but in a different way. In the summer of 2020, Owens made the jump and landed a sweet gig as director of culinary at Proper Brands, a fully vertical medical marijuana company in St. Louis, where patients, who must obtain medical cards from a doctor, experience carefully crafted premium products cr and experiences.

Owens is charged with the development and manufacturing of the company’s line of artisanal edibles, Honeybee Edibles, featuring fruit gumdrops and chocolate bars.

the best ingredients, fine European chocolate and real fruit purees. For instance, one gumdrop has watermelon and passionfruit, which yields a sweet yet tart flavor.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE APPROACH AND INGREDIENTS

Honeybee Edibles’ gumdrops and chocolate bars contain doses of THC and CBD from cannabis plants grown at Proper Cannabis’ St. Louis-area growing facility. The products are sold at 120 dispensaries and counting across Missouri, aiming to alleviate for patients a host of health ailments, under the guidance of their doctors and the experts at Proper Cannabis.

“We wanted to produce fine confections that just happened to have cannabis in them. We really saw cannabis as just another ingredient, albeit an important one,” Owens says. “I took the approach to these products thinking they should really taste great — not taste good, but taste great — so people could enjoy them and want to use them again medicinally.”

HELPING PEOPLE IS THE REWARD

To elevate the flavor profiles, Owens sources

So far, customers have given positive feedback, saying they’ve found relief from

pain, insomnia and stress thanks to Honeybee ybee Edibles. “It's pretty exciting. For 15 years when I was selling or making chocolate bars, people really enjoyed w ed them and would tell me stories about their families, amilies, giving chocolate to loved ones. Things like lik that. But this is a little different,” he says. “It actually helps people with their lives and that is really rewarding.” For more information about Honeybee Edibles, visit honeybee-edibles.com.

Information provided is for educational and informational purposes only and does not supersede any medical advice given by a physician. Cannabis is still considered a schedule 1 controlled substance and is illegal under federal law. Adults who consume cannabis must keep cannabis products away from animals and out of reach of children. Note that the intoxicating effects of cannabis can sometimes be delayed, so do not operate a vehicle or machinery after consumption. Use of cannabis during pregnancy or while breastfeeding may be harmful. By purchasing cannabis from a dispensary, you are assuming the risk of any damage or loss that occurs during its use.

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

Jack Nolen’s 2501 S. 9th St. in Soulard!

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm / ma r c h 2 02 2

the dish

hometown hits

shop here

MYSTERY SHOPPER

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

sugar rush

In this class, we will learn to pan-fry and deep-fry and also explore techniques for classic sauce-making and simple custards.

Faux Fish Sandwich with Tartar Sauce Fish fry season is one of my favorite times of year in St. Louis. Every Friday during Lent, which starts on March 2 this year, you can find an endless number of pop-up fish fries in any given zipcode. If you have vowed to give up meat, including fish, this year, this plant-based alternative will satisfy your craving for classic fish-fry fare. Written by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 3pm on Sat., March 12 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school or call 314.909.1704

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

Serves 6 Faux Fish Filets 2 14-oz can artichokes, drained 3½ cups panko bread crumbs, divided 1 sheet nori, flaked into small pieces 1 Tbsp Old Bay seasoning ½ tsp celery salt ½ tsp black pepper ½ tsp smoked paprika 1 cup vegetable oil ¼ cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, lightly beaten salt and pepper, to taste Tartar Sauce 1 cup mayonnaise 3 to 4 Tbsp dill pickle, small diced 1 Tbsp capers, chopped 2 Tbsp onion, small diced 1 Tbsp lemon zest 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 4 to 5 dashes Tabasco sauce (optional) salt and pepper, to taste

To Serve 6 hamburger buns, toasted 6 slices Cheddar or American cheese green-leaf lettuce / preparation – faux fish filets / Add artichokes, 1½ cups bread crumbs, nori, Old Bay seasoning, celery salt, black pepper, smoked paprika and vegetable oil to a food processor. Pulse until just combined (do not over-process; you still want some flaky pieces of artichoke to remain). Separate into 4 to 6 equal portions and form into patties. Refrigerate for ½ hour to let set. After patties are set, heat oil in a skillet. Place flour, eggs and 2 cups bread crumbs in separate bowls, seasoning flour with salt and pepper. To bread patties, dredge in flour, dusting off excess, then coat with egg, allowing excess to drip off,

MAKE THE MEAL ○ Faux Fish Sandwich with Tartar Sauce ○ Crab-Stuffed Hush Puppies with Green Goddess Dressing ○ Roasted Tomato Mac ‘n’ Cheese ○ Chocolate Chess Pie and cover with bread crumbs. Repeat until all patties are breaded. Working in batches, fry patties in oil until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to wire rack and season with salt. / preparation – tartar sauce / In a small bowl, combine all ingredients and season to taste. / to serve / Spread tartar sauce on bottom bun, topping with faux fish filet, cheese and lettuce.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

st. louis

with Armin Grozdanic / chef-owner, Yapi Mediterranean

Sandwiches

t Cooking is a family affair for Armin Grozdanic, chef-owner of Yapi Mediterranean

Subs and Sandwiches. Grozdanic, who was born in Bosnia before immigrating to the U.S., grew up around food. His mother is an excellent home cook, his father worked in a flour mill, his uncles were butchers and his aunt worked at the busiest cevapi stand in his hometown in Bosnia. Grozdanic’s aunt even taught him how to make cevapi – a traditional grilled minced meat sausage – weeks before he opened his restaurant in St. Louis. Since then, the sandwich has become a favorite menu item at Yapi, served traditionally on two pieces of lepinja, or yeast-leavened flatbread, with sour cream and onions on the side. Although Grozdanic considers watching his mother cook to be his most formative culinary education, he also credits three cookbooks with helping him refine his skills in the kitchen. –Emily Wasserman photo by sARAH CONroy

The Only Balkan Cookbook You Will Ever Need

The Ultimate Bosnian Cookbook

Ultimate Balkan Cookbook

by Miroslav Nikolic (2021)

by Slavka Bodic (2021)

“Eating is what all of us have in common. We all love to do it well. Plus, food is the easiest way to explore a different culture. This cookbook has recipes so people can make Bosnian recipes at home.”

“Cooking and eating mean family bonding in Bosnian culture. This cookbook has recipes that you can try with the whole family.”

“Balkan cuisine has been developed through the centuries. It is packed with hearty ingredients and prepared in large quantities to feed all the extended family and friends. This book includes some of the best Balkan recipes.”

by Slavka Bodic (2018)

/ ma r c h 2 02 2

the dish

hometown hits

shop here

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Raspberry & Cream Brioche Sandwich Sandwiches are not exclusive to savory meals; they can also make for a decadent dessert or breakfast. Take this golden brioche sandwich, which boasts crisp, caramelized edges and a tart filling made with fresh raspberries and creamy mascarpone cheese. It makes for an irresistible sweet and savory combination that just might have you rethinking your next sandwich. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

healthy appetite

QUICK FIX

sugar rush

serves 1 2 1 1 ¼ 2 ¼

slices brioche, each sliced ¾-inch thick Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature tsp sugar, divided cup mascarpone Tbsp raspberry jam cup fresh raspberries flaky sea salt, for finishing

/ preparation / Set a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Slather one side of each brioche slice with butter and sprinkle ½ teaspoon sugar over the buttered surface. Turn the slices over and spread a layer of mascarpone onto both slices. Spread a layer of jam, raspberries and a light sprinkle of sea salt onto one slice of brioche and then top with remaining slice, buttered side up. Place the sandwich onto the heated pan. Cook, turning once, until both sides of the brioche are caramelized a deep golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and set on a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife, slice the sandwich in half and serve while still warm.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Tamara Landeiro / chef-owner, Havana’s Cuisine

croquette cuban sandwich

The heartiest version of the eatery’s signature dish features all the requisite flavorful fillings topped with four Cuban croquettes. The breaded deep-fried dumplings are made with ham, milk and flour, lending both crispy and creamy textures to the substantial sandwich.

Written by Mabel Suen photography by sarah conroy

Havana native Tamara Landeiro moved to St. Louis in 2014 to follow the burgeoning chess career of her daughter, Thalia, and quickly began to miss the savory flavors of her hometown. Five years later, she started cooking up Cuban cuisine for anyone else craving an authentic version of her country’s ubiquitous sandwich. After running a stall at the Soulard Farmers Market and a food truck, she achieved her ultimate goal of opening a brick-andmortar restaurant this past fall. With Havana’s Cuisine, located in Downtown St. Louis, she’s on a mission to create “the home of the Cuban sandwich in St. Louis.” Here, she specializes in traditional homestyle Cuban food cooked the way her family has always made it.

How did Havana’s Cuisine get started? I have a bachelor’s degree in accounting, but opening my own restaurant has always been a dream of mine. My grandma and grandpa used to have a restaurant before the revolution in Cuba. I grew up cooking with them. What’s been the most rewarding part? The idea of sharing Cuban food is very important for me. I feel very happy when people say that my food tastes like what Mom or Grandma used to make for them. It’s what they used to eat at home in Cuba or knew from Miami or Florida.

ropa vieja plate

This traditional Cuban plate features shredded beef in tomato sauce seasoned with garlic, peppers, onion and spices, and it’s served with white rice, plantains and black bean soup.

How would you describe Cuban cuisine for those who are unfamiliar? Cuban cuisine is a mix of African and Spanish cuisines. It’s full of colors and flavors. We use a lot of garlic, onions and red pepper. Our plates come with rice, beans and meat. What makes your Cuban sandwich so delicious? The main thing that makes the Cuban sandwich is the bread. I spent a lot of time bringing Cuban bread from La Segunda Bakery [in Tampa, Florida] to St. Louis. It’s one of the most famous bakeries in Tampa, so people who know Cuban food know that they’re getting authentic Cuban food. The pork we use is marinated ahead of time with bitter orange and garlic and is cooked for 12 hours. We press the sandwich so all the flavors of the mojo-roasted pork, Swiss cheese, mustard, pickles and ham melt together.

elena ruz

Named after Cuban socialite Elena Ruz Valdés-Fauli, this sandwich originated in the late 1920s or early 1930s and has since become a beloved national dish. Landeiro’s version features turkey, cream cheese and

1131 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, havanascuisine.com

guava sauce on soft medianoche bread. / ma r c h 2 02 2

From bánh mì to burgers to BLTs,

we’re rounding up must-try sandwiches across the region.

swear by

When a sandwich craving hits,

If we let our minds wander, we could come

indeed a sandwich,

up with an endless list of favorite local

Massachusetts

Maybe it’s a homestyle BLT, fresh from

sandwiches – while also debating which of

declares that a burrito

your own kitchen, slathered with mayo

those get to bear the “sandwich” moniker. It

is not and New York casts a

and piled high with crispy bacon. Or could

may seem like an obsolete notion, but in the

wide net, throwing everything

it be the bánh mì from the place down the

food world, it’s a rather important query.

from bagels to pita pockets into

street, or a lettuce wrap from your favorite

The question of “What defines a sandwich?”

the category.

vegan eatery? How about a flat-top grilled

has even come into play in the court of law,

beef patty with just the right fatty blend,

appearing when non-compete agreements

Whatever your definition of a sandwich

Written by:

smashed between a toasted bun, or – dare

are put into place, dictating which types

is, we can all agree that it should satisfy a

we say it – a hot dog, paired with a side of

of restaurants can open up side by side.

different question: Is it delicious? Here, we

summer baseball, grilled and garnished

Several state courts have ruled on the

asked local food industry pros where they

Kasey Carlson, Tessa Cooper, Jessica Vaughn Martin, charlotte renner, Jenny Vergara, Heather Riske and Mabel Suen

with ketchup, mustard and relish?

issue; California argues that a hot dog is

go when a sandwich craving calls.

what do your tastebuds conjure?

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

illustrations by:

carson mcnamara

From the famous Mississippi

Steak Sandwich at Murry’s “My favorite sandwich, 100 percent, is the steak sandwich at Murry’s. When we go out for a treat, that’s where we go. There’s not another place in town where you can order a steak sandwich and get a cut of meat like that. Even the steak sandwich that we have at Just Jeff’s is a thin cut; at Murry’s, it’s like a sirloin with bread.”murrysrestaurant.net Jeff Spencer, owner, Just Jeff’s

Nights Club to the Smokey The Beer

Fat Marco Polo at Marco Polo’s Italian Market

“ The only place for me to get a sandwich when eating out

a wrap or salad.

is Jasper’s Marco Polo for a Fat Marco Polo. The foundation for any sandwich is the bread; one bite here and I was immediately taken back to a baguette from Jef Dover, owner of Le Monde Bakery in North Kansas City. A quick conversation with chef-owner Jasper Mirabile confirmed that Jef was indeed involved! Jasper piles on the mortadella, capicola and Genoa salami with garlic butter, cheese and toasts it to perfection. A masterful sandwich features simple, great bread and great ingredients. marcopolo.jasperskc.com

gramophonestl.com

Robert Duensing, owner, Best Regards Bakery & Café

and everything in between, any sandwich at The Gramophone in St. Louis can also be made as

photo by keith borgmeyer

”

photo by alistair tutton

Parisian Ron Style at Derby Deli “To me, quality bread is what makes a sandwich. The rustic baguette Derby Deli uses is the perfect combination of crisp and soft, and when coupled with the rosemary ham and Gruyere cheese, it truly tastes like a European sandwich. But the real star is the Président butter, which is made in Normandy, France. This butter is the crème de la crème.” derbydeli.com

Tessa Cooper, Feast Springfield contributing editor photo by amy ray

/ ma r c h 2 02 2

Known for its “ultimate” grilled cheese sandwiches, Best Regards Bakery & Café in Overland Park, Kansas, claims to be able to make 52 million different combinations of the classic sandwich with its variety of breads, cheeses and add-ons. makethemsmile.com

Fried Green Tomato BLT at The Finley

“

The fried green tomato BLT at The Finley not only fries the tomato but also candies the bacon and highlights Neighbor’s Mill multigrain bread. They slather it with basil pesto aïoli made in-house, setting it apart from other BLTs . facebook.com/TheFinleyOzark Anna Saunders, private chef at Chef Anna photo by amy ray

Pork Belly Sliders at Sycamore “I love to try new dishes, so you’ll find me ordering the special or something different every time I go to my favorite restaurants. A major exception to this is the pork belly sliders at Sycamore, which are so perfect I’ve ordered them over and over again. They are adorable and shareable, featuring three tender buns with flavorful pork and a sweet-tart crunch from the apple slaw. I would say that I’m broadening the definition of a sandwich slightly, because this is a bun cut in half instead of two slices of bread, but trust me: If you eat pork, it’s a heck of a sandwich.” sycamorerestaurant.com Amanda Rainey, owner, Goldie’s Bagels photo by keith borgmeyer

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

”

now we're talkin' turkey

Turkey Sandwich at The Peanut “You can’t go wrong with The Peanut’s turkey sandwich, which is served at all the locations. The special detail in this sandwich is a cool layer of cream cheese studded with fresh scallion bits. I order it with a side of The Peanut’s famous spicy wing sauce to dip the sandwich into. The combination of the cool turkey and cream cheese coated in a layer of spicy sauce creates a perfectly balanced bite, and you can use your extra sauce to dip your sides into. I also love that the sandwich is so big that it stretches into two meals, and of

course, I ask for wing sauce to go.” peanutkc.com Sofia Hudson, owner, Swoon Cookie Crafters photo by alistair tutton

pepperoncinis and Sriracha give this sandwich some heat

Bacon Turkey Bianca at Union Loafers

“I don’t think any discussion of sandwiches in

St. Louis is complete without a mention of Union Loafers. I always have a hard time narrowing down my options, but lately I’ve been returning for the simple yet immensely satisfying Bacon Turkey Bianca. The foundation of this sammie is the bakery’s pan-baked Bianca bread – also used for its pizza rossa and cheesy bread – which gets layered with juicy turkey, thick-cut bacon, lettuce and a slather of housemade tomato mayo that ties it all together. unionloafers.com Heather Riske, Feast editor in chief

”

photo by j. pollack photography

Tiki-Turkey Sandwich at Brewery Emperial “My favorite sandwich is a staple on the menu at Brewery Emperial. The Tiki-Turkey Sandwich is a spicy delight with shaved house-smoked turkey, pepperoncinis, Provolone, pepper cream cheese and Sriracha all on perfectly toasted wheat bread. If I’m dining in, I always go with the hand-cut garlic fries, but if I get it to go, I like to sub out the fries for their roasted curry cauliflower, mostly because fries never travel as good as you’d like them to. It’s a pretty straight-forward sandwich – no real bells or whistles – but it’s just spicy enough to make my temples sweat without setting my tongue ablaze.” breweryemperial.com

Tim Tuohy, owner, Kansas City Canning Co. photo by alistair tutton

/ ma r c h 2 02 2

The Jirden at Law, Druff's

Phil’s Meatball Sub, Scimeca’s Market & Deli

The Jirden at Law at Druff’s in Springfield, Missouri,

Utter the name Scimeca’s in Kansas City and juicy

was inspired by a familiar debate in the food

Italian sausage may be the first thing that comes to

world: Does pineapple belong on pizza? Made

mind, but since 1935, the Scimeca family has also

with Monterey Jack, pineapple, jalapeños and ham

been making a host of other sausages, brats and

served on wheat bread, the sandwich takes its name

their famous meatballs. Guests can sample it all

from Jorden Rutledge, a friend of owner Vance

at the new Scimeca’s Market & Deli, which opened

Hall, who was in turn named after a family name,

in North Kansas City in 2020. Phil’s Meatball Sub is named for two Phils: Scimeca’s third-generation company president, Phil Scimeca, and the nephew

Learn the stories behind these iconic sandwiches, all named after real people.

Jirden. “Jorden worked in the pizza game for a long time before becoming a lawyer,” Hall says. “We’ve had many debates about whether or not pineapple

of his daughter, Toni Bonadonna, who recently took

belongs on pizza, so when given the opportunity, we

over as the fourth generation running the family

forced the issue on his sandwich.” yumdruffs.com

business. Along with their first name, both share a The Howie Crusher, The Social Room

great love of this meatball sandwich, which features four of Scimeca’s own melt-in-your-mouth beef and

Named after owner Jesse Garcia’s wife, the Howie

pork meatballs cooked in housemade spaghetti

Crusher at The Social Room in Columbia, Missouri, is

sauce and ladled into a soft Italian hoagie lined with

a classic grilled cheese fixed with extra cheese and

slices of Provolone. scimecasonline.com

a healthy helping of pickles. Although her name is actually Heather, her nieces pronounced it “Howie”

The Z-Man, Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que

as toddlers. She took that to heart and later used it

In 1997, just after Jeff and Joy Stehney opened the

to inform her roller derby name: Howie Crusher, or

first location of Joe’s in the now-famous gas station

“How We Crush Her.” thesocialroomcomo.com

at 47th and Mission, they were invited to advertise

Chris’ Hot Chicken, Sycamore

on a new sports talk radio station, 1510 AM, by up-

Owner Sandford Speake named this dish after

and-coming radio personality Mike Zarrick. Swayed

Sycamore’s longest tenured employee, Chris Huston,

by Zarrick’s love of barbecue, the couple agreed.

who’s been with the restaurant since its opening

Six months later, when they had created a new

nearly two decades ago. True to Huston’s own

barbecue sandwich featuring sliced smoked brisket,

philosophy of fare, this fresh take on the popular

smoked Provolone, a couple onion rings and a bit of

sandwich doesn’t skimp on the delicious details.

barbecue sauce on a Kaiser roll, they asked Zarrick

Chris’ Hot Chicken is made with Buttonwood Farms

to host an on-air contest to name the new sandwich.

chicken breast that’s bathed in a buttermilk-hot

As Zarrick’s popularity grew, he had begun referring

sauce mixture before being fried and then dunked

to himself as “Z-Man” on air, so when customers

in rendered chicken fat. The crunchy fried chicken

came in to Joe’s to try the sandwich, they asked

is served on housemade focaccia and finished with

for “that Z-Man sandwich.” A winning name was

aïoli and pickles. sycamorerestaurant.com

eventually chosen, but it never stuck – the sandwich would be forever known as The Z-Man. joeskc.com The Jacquelin, Big Momma's Coffee & Espresso Bar

Zora Neale Hurston’s Spicy Chickn Sandwich, SweetArt

Instead of sandwiches named after someone she The Benjamin Hochman, Protzel’s Deli

Featuring turkey, Provolone, lettuce, tomatoes,

Nearly a dozen sandwiches on the menu at Protzel’s Deli are named after real

sprouts, basil pesto, mayo and honey mustard,

customers, and according to co-owner Max Protzel – whose grandparents founded

The Jacquelin at Big Momma’s Coffee & Espresso

the University City, Missouri, deli in 1954 – they’ve all got a great story behind them.

Bar in Springfield, Missouri, is named for owner

“It’s not just a random stranger who will come in and ask for a sandwich,” he says. “It’s

Lyle Foster’s mother. On weekends, it’s served on wheatberry bread, but during the week, you can

someone I’ve known for a long time and they’ve come in for a long time and they’ve ordered this sandwich many, many times over again before it went on the menu.”

order it on housemade focaccia bread. “In the spirit

Case in point? The Benjamin Hochman. Featuring the deli’s popular pastrami with deli

of Big Momma’s as a business, I wanted to honor her

mustard, topped with a potato knish and served warm on Jewish rye bread, it’s named

as a single mom who worked incredibly hard to raise

for the current Post-Dispatch sports columnist, whose grandparents frequented the

my brother and me,” Foster says. “The Jacquelin is a

deli in the 1950s. “His grandparents came in, his dad came in, his uncle came in – his

sandwich that has flavor and zest, which epitomizes

entire family came in throughout the deli’s existence,” Protzel says. protzelsdeli.com

her style and personality.” bigmommascoffee.com

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

photo by judd demaline

knows, SweetArt owner Reine Keis named two of her lunch sandwiches after famous authors – specifically, Black female authors known for their writings on civil rights and racial struggles. "My menu is a way of keeping their names spoken and their work alive," Keis says. Zora Neale Hurston’s Spicy Chickn Sandwich features a vegan breaded crispy “chicken” patty dressed with Buffalo sauce and a light green vegan ranch dressing topped with lettuce and tomato. Audre Lorde’s Chickn Challenge Sandwich, meanwhile, sees the same patty dressed with a housemade vegan Southwest sauce along with some pickles. sweetartstl.com

order Il Saro “spicy” for a drizzle of chileinfused oil

Cheeseburger at Booches

“ My favorite Columbia sandwich, without a doubt, is the

137-year-old Booches cheeseburger. I order ‘two with everything and extra cheese’ on good days, long days, days when I’m in a rush and before and after all my travel. I was vegetarian for half my life, and pasta is my preferred carb – but that perfectly balanced cheeseburger on Ninth Street feels like home. booches1884.com Michelle La Fata, owner, Pasta La Fata

”

photo by aaron ottis

Il Saro Sandwich at Bella Napoli “My favorite sandwich is a tried-and-true Italian classic: the Il Saro sandwich, spicy, from Bella Napoli. It’s made with capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami, Provolone, giardiniera, tomatoes, spring greens and a house balsamic dressing. It is the comfort I need on my worst and best days!” kcbellanapoli.com Natasha Bailey, lead cook, Thelma’s Kitchen photo by alistair tutton

Nine inches wide, breaded and deep-fried, the massive pork tenderloin at Christine’s Firehouse Bar and Grill in North Kansas City is so large, regulars order a second bun for 50 cents and split the sandwich with a friend.

St. Paul Sandwich at Mai Lee

Pastrami Sandwich at Nomad

“We have two favorite sandwiches in St. Louis. Alex’s favorite is the St. Paul sandwich from Mai Lee. Mai Lee is one of the best non-sandwich sandwich shops in St. Louis. Amanda’s favorite is the pastrami sandwich from Nomad; from the house smoked pastrami to the pickles, every bite is just perfect.” maileestl.com, nomadstl.square.site Alex and Amanda Donley, co-owners, Gioia’s Deli photo by j. pollack photography

/ ma r c h 2 02 2

Italian Beef Sandwich at The Pizza Man “The Pizza Man in Lenexa, Kansas, offers guests a taste of Chicago by serving thin-crust tavern-style pizza, along with traditional Chicago dogs – drug through the garden, of course. But it’s the classic Italian beef sandwich that I crave, with thin slices of beef piled high on a hoagie roll and topped with giardiniera and melted Provolone and

Famed for its Hot

served with piping hot beefy au jus on the side for dipping. I long for

Salami sandwich,

that moment of chewy, crunchy and soggy all in one bite. Seriously: The drippier, the better.” thepizzamankc.wordpress.com

Gioia’s Deli in St.

Jenny Vergara, Feast Kansas City contributing editor

Louis is more than

photo by alistair tutton

just a local favorite: In 2017, the James

The Prosciutto Happiness at The Sandwich Scene

Beard Foundation honored the deli, which opened in 1918,

“This is a good, well-rounded, easy to eat, everyday sandwich. I don’t

with an America’s

like when something is just all savory or sweet, and this sandwich has

Classics award.

a good mix of everything together. It has crispy prosciutto, and all of the meats at The Sandwich Scene are always super fresh. The bread is

gioiasdeli

excellent – it has a nice crunch to it. It’s all warmed up, but you also get the coldness from the lettuce mix.” thesandwichscene.com

Anne Baker, co-owner, Finnegan's Wake, Civil Kitchen and Tinga Tacos photo by amy ray

BBQ Pork Bánh Mì at The Banh Mi Shop

“

The BBQ pork bánh mì at The Banh Mi Shop always hits the spot. Char siu pork belly is layered with a mix of pickled daikon radish and carrots, cilantro, jalapeño, cucumber and a housemade aïoli on a toasted baguette to create a range of textures in one sandwich. The tangy pickled veggies and fresh cucumber balance the sweet and salty char siu marinade, and if you don’t feel like sweating, you can always opt to leave off the jalapeños. If you’re treating yourself, make sure to get the lychee lemonade to wash it all down. thebanhmishopstl.com Kasey Carlson, Feast digital editor

”

photo by j. pollack photography

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

a light lunch

Beet Reuben at Gooseberries

“Chef Kim Bond’s signature beet Reuben is a vibrant vegan version of the

Cajun Catfish Biscuit at Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co.

Roasted Cauliflower Wrap at Olio

The Veggie at Sub Shop

“Some may not consider this a

on Seminole, even if I have not visited

“When I walk in the door at Sub Shop

classic deli standard, featuring tender

“For any meal of the day, I’ll order

sandwich, but my go-to for a light

in a long time, owner Ethan Seehusen

brined beets and cabbage layered

a Cajun Catfish Biscuit from Ozark

lunch is Olio's roasted cauliflower

always remembers what I like. The

harmoniously with oat-milk ‘cheese’

Mountain Biscuit Co. The cornmeal-

wrap. It combines a few, simple

delicious veggie sub is served on their

and creamy plant-based Thousand

battered and fried filet is heaven atop

ingredients to highlight the quality

soft white or wheat bread – baked

Island dressing. It’s all sandwiched

a nest of kale slaw, finished with a

and expert craftsmanship behind the

fresh daily – with yummy vegetables,

between two slices of hearty house-

kickin’ remoulade. And the biscuits –

dish – a philosophy that we share at

greens, sliced cheese and cashews

baked pumpernickel, showcasing how

if you’ve had them, you already know:

Volpi Foods. Regardless if a wrap

that give it a wonderful crunch. It’s

simultaneously comforting and fun her

they’re golden, soft and flaky all at

counts as a sandwich or not, it's

Mabel Suen, Feast St. Louis

Jessica Vaughn Martin,

cooking can be.”gooseberriesstl.com

once.”ozarkbiscuits.com

inarguably delicious!”bengelina.com

topped with their special dressing.” facebook.com/SubShopsSeminole

Lorenza Pasetti, president,

Colleen Smith, owner,

contributing editor

Feast Columbia contributing editor

Volpi Foods

Tea Bar & Bites

photo by mabel suen

photo by Sam O'Keefe

photo by alexis staver

photo by amy ray

/ ma r c h 2 02 2

Carne Asada Torta at El Sabor De Mexico Taqueria

BLT at Sub Shop “BLTs have always been my go-to sandwich order,

“This torta hits all the right notes. The bread has a nice

but none compare to that of Sub Shop’s in Jefferson

chew, and the meat is tender but has a great crispiness

City, Missouri. The wheat bread is baked fresh every

from the flat-top. It’s smothered in refried beans, lettuce,

day – as are the white and rye breads – and the

tomatoes and jalapeños. Pro tip: Visit the food truck

sandwich is served warm straight out of the oven with

when it’s parked at Hold Fast Brewing, a regular spot

freshly chopped tomatoes and iceberg lettuce that

of theirs, and enjoy a beer from Hold Fast along with

add a light, fresh crunch to go along with the hot,

Lauren Brown, co-owner, Neighbor's Mill Bakery & Café

Charlotte Renner, Feast intern

your torta.” facebook.com/ElSaborDeMexico417

crispy bacon and melted mayo.” jeffcitysubshop.com

Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich at Summit Grill

photo by amy ray

photo by scott mcdonald

“

I've been on a hot chicken sandwich streak for a while, and the version at Summit Grill is my favorite so far. It comes with a fried chicken breast, pickles and jalapeño aïoli on a great bun. I order it as is, with no deviation from the standard set. The jalapeño aïoli meets the spicy, crunchy chicken and soft, sweet(ish) bun for a perfect combo of spicy, creamy, crunchy and just a little sweet. summitgrillkc.com

”

Alex Pope, co-owner, The Local Pig and Pigwich photo by alistair tutton

regional

delicacies New Orleans has the muffaletta and Maine has the lobster roll, but the Midwest is home to its own unique sandwich traditions, too. Here are four to try.

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 2

St. Paul Sandwich

Gerber Sandwich

Read more about the history of Springfield’s horseshoe at feastmagazine.com

Brain Sandwich

Horseshoe Sandwich An open-faced sandwich featuring

Widely available at Chinese-American

Said to have been created at

Although they’ve all but faded from

restaurants throughout St. Louis, the

St. Louis chain Ruma’s Deli (and

local menus, fried brain sandwiches

two thick-cut slices of toasted

St. Paul sandwich typically features

named for frequent customer

became popular in the St. Louis

bread topped with meat, a mountain

a crispy fried egg foo young patty,

Dick Gerber), the Gerber is an

area around the late 1800s to early

of crispy french fries and cheese

mayonnaise, lettuce, tomatoes and

open-faced sandwich featuring

1900s due to the wide availability

sauce, the horseshoe sandwich is a

pickles between slices of white bread.

French or Italian bread, melted

of brains and other off-cuts from

local delicacy in Springfield, Illinois.

From there, recipes can vary from

garlic butter, ham and cheese.

nearby stockyards in East St. Louis.

Although the original recipe

restaurant to restaurant; some add

Originally made with Provolone,

You can still find one at Schottzie's

called for ham, restaurants today

gravy on top, while others play with

it’s now served with the city’s

Bar and Grill in South County, which

add their own spin with everything

different proteins, including chicken,

signature, love-it-or-hate-it

showcased its spin on Andrew

from Buffalo chicken to pulled pork to

beef and shrimp.

cheese: Provel.

Zimmern’s ‘Bizarre Foods’ in 2017.

veggie burgers.

taste

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