March 2020 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

march 2020

Dig into the unbeetable eats at

Pirate's Bone Burgers on p. 47

P. 5 4

out of this world plant-based proteins P. 5 8

a life POWERED

by PLANTS

POWER P

LUNCH MONDAY - FRIDAY BOTH LOCATIONS

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

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MARCH

2020

VOLUME 10 / ISSUE 3 CONTRIBUTORS

VICE PRESIDENT OF NICHE PUBLISHING, PUBLISHER OF FEAST MAGAZINE

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

SALES

EDITOR IN CHIEF

FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES, PLEASE CONTACT:

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com MANAGING EDITOR

sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

SPECIAL PROJECTS COORDINATOR

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com KANSAS CITY CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Jenny Vergara ST. LOUIS CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Mabel Suen FACT CHECKER

Karen Parkman PROOFREADER

Alecia Humphreys CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Gallagher, Juliana Goodwin, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Burk Krohe, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber

EMILY WASSERMAN St. Louis, Writer

“The first time I met Jon Emanuel, I was on a different Feast assignment, covering a farmers’ dinner hosted by a local vineyard in Potosi, Missouri. Jon, the chef at the event, made a feast that included some of the best barbecue pork I’ve ever tasted. I didn’t realize it at the time, but he was just beginning a completely plant-based diet after developing a rare allergy to mammalian

FEAST TV

meat. A year later, I reconnected with him after he converted the menu of his inn, the Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast, to 100

PRODUCER: Catherine Neville

percent vegan. I’m happy to share Jon’s journey and some of his

PRODUCTION PARTNER: Tybee Studios

CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

DISTRIBUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

delicious plant-based dishes with readers.” (One on One, p. 15)

EMMALEE HENLEY

Farmington, Missouri, Photographer "Having the opportunity to meet the owners of the Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast was delightful. Jon and Penny are not just business owners; they are two very inviting and genuine individuals. They welcomed me with open arms and the biggest of smiles. I know, from my short time with the lovely couple, that Jon and Penny make every guest feel like a part of the family during their stay. [During my visit], Jon prepared mouthwatering dishes that showcased just a fraction of his knowledge of the culinary arts. Not only were they appealing to the eyes, but the flavor was more

ART

than words can describe." (One on One, p. 15)

ART DIRECTOR

SHANNON WEBER

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

St. Louis, Writer

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Chris Bauer, Zach Bauman, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Amber Deery, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Emmalee Henley, Anne Mauldin, Paige McDonald, Demond Meek, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Jonathan Pollack, Rolf Ringwald, Madison Sanders, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Beth Solano, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Kim Wade

"I love breaking down different topics in Crash Course because it removes the intimidation factor of trying something new and hopefully gets people into the kitchen with more excitement and less dread. I also learn something new each time. This month’s topic was especially helpful to me in leveling up my own knife game. Although I’m confident in my recipe development skills, the slicing and dicing part has always been more of a ‘means to an end’ rather than something I’ve worked to improve. Writing this funneled my

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

excitement of finally getting proper knives into a piece that

Kim Cho and Frank Norton

hopefully conveys how essential even one good knife is to Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

your everyday cooking." (Crash Course, p. 38)

ANNE MAULDIN

Springfield, Missouri, Photographer “Living in Springfield, Missouri, I’m not in Nixa very often.

When I stopped in at Piccolo to get set up to shoot its vegan pesto pasta, I poured a couple glasses of wine and snagged a few ‘mozzarella’ knots to help set the mood.

You never know what kind of lighting situation you’re getting yourself into when in a new place, and the light in there was pretty dim – rightfully so, being an Italian

ON THE COVER Pirate's Bone Burgers in Kansas City by Pilsen Photo Co-op TABLE OF CONTENTS Go Out: Lulu's Local Eatery in St. Louis by Madison Sanders; Stay In: Pickled spring vegetable salad by Jennifer Silverberg; Features: Asian-inspired lentil tacos and barbecue mushroom tacos by Judd Demaline

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restaurant. I got a table by the window for some natural light but relied heavily on the lights I brought with me.

Looks good enough to eat, right?" (Dine & Drink, p. 13)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 18 /

/ 11 / DINE & DRINK

The Littlest Bake Shop, Kind Food, Café Dhibs,

Utah Station, Prioritized Pastries, Piccolo, Trio / 14 / On TREND

Vegan barbecue

Features

/ 38 /

/ 23 / THE dish

Bourbon-Buffalo cauliflower / 24 / the mix

Salted Pomelo Sour

/ 15 / one on one

Jon Emanuel of Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast

/ 25 / one on one

Ingrid Benecke-Chiles and Alex Maurer of

Collective Kitchen

/ 16 / shop here

Culture Counter

/ 26 / one ingredient 3 ways Jackfruit

/ 18 / hot blocks

South Grand Boulevard in St. Louis

/ 28 / healthy appetite

Vegan kimchi jjigae

/ 19 / one on one

Drew Clark of Taqueria Vegana

/ 30 / midwest made

Plant-based dairy delights

/ 20 / Hometown hits

Main Squeeze, Baker Creek Restaurant, SweetArt

/ 32 / mystery shopper

Dulse

/ 21 / one on one

Natasha Kwan of Frida's and Diego's Cantina y Cocina

/ 34 / sugar Rush

Vegan dark chocolate-espresso mousse / 36 / quick fix

Vegetable paella / 37 / culinary library

Kathy Hale of Canihaveabite / 38 / crash course Knives

/ 58 /

47

living life on the veg

54

hungry for more

58

a plant on every plate

Pirate’s Bone Burgers in Kansas City makes good on its mission to feed more people more plants.

Hungry Planet’s line of plant-based proteins goes beyond facsimile beef to appeal to a global audience.

Caryn Dugan shares inspiration and information about plant-based living at her center in Kirkwood, Missouri.

In Every Issue

/ 6 / from the PUBLISHER

Get your veg on / 7 / events / 8 / feast tv

Funky farms / 66 / b ack burner / ma r c h 2 02 0

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Letter

I

from the

Publisher

can remember when MATCH Meats came on the scene in St. Louis more than 15 years ago.

Right here in the meat-loving Midwest – long before the Beyond or Impossible brands were conceived – the brother-sister duo of Todd and Jody Boyman developed a soy-based meat alternative that was designed to look, cook and taste like animal protein. I was intrigued when the product launched, drawn to the idea that a plant-based product could mimic meat and be used as a one-to-one substitute for ground beef, chicken, pork and even crab in recipes from burgers to lasagna. But I also remember being a little skeptical about the product’s appeal.

This month, inspired by my visit to KC Shrimp Co. for the Funky Farms episode of Feast TV, I make a batch of shrimp-stuffed empanadas, which are easily made vegetarian by substituting cubed firm tofu for the shrimp. Get the recipe on pg. 8.

Back then, people weren’t really talking about plant-based eating – vegetarian options were few on restaurant menus, and “you’ll never miss the meat” was the promise of most vegetarian recipes that tried to appeal to the typical home cook. Things are changing, though, and fast. Recently rebranding the product as Hungry Planet, Todd and Jody are poised to expand their company nationwide, taking advantage of the explosion of interest and opportunity surrounding plant-based eating and, in particular, “meat” that’s made from plants. Contributing writer Nancy Stiles dug into the Hungry Planet story (p. 54) for this, our first meatless issue.

In Kirkwood, Missouri, Caryn Dugan has launched a first-of-its-kind hub dedicated to a plant-based lifestyle. Contributor Emily Wasserman had the chance to drop by for a hands-on cooking class and talk with Caryn about her path from a typical meat-centered American diet to one that’s entirely plantbased. In the article, Caryn says, “Living in the middle of the country and not being exposed to anything different than what I grew up with, I thought, ‘I’m not doing a vegan diet, no way. Those people are crazy.’” You may be in the same boat. Personally, I eat meat, but I am thoughtful about where my meat comes from, and I’ve been consciously cutting back on my animal protein consumption.

When we sat down in October to plan the 2020 editorial calendar, we all agreed that we should dedicate one of our issues to vegan and vegetarian dining. As consumers learn more about the impact dietary choices have on the environment, plant-based eating has come front and center in the conversation about food. The Plant Based Food Association released a report last July that showed an 11 percent uptick in U.S. retail sales of vegan foods. It’s now a $4.5 billion industry in this country, with the plant-based “meat” industry a more than $800 million slice of the pie. That’s no small potatoes.

This issue has inspired me to dig even deeper into cooking veg at home, for my own health as well as the planet’s. I hope you find some new ideas in these pages as well, whether it’s a new place to visit, products to try or recipes to play with.

In these pages, you’ll meet a range of people who are focused on bringing plants to the center of your plate, from the creative plant-based burgers at Pirate’s Bone Burgers in Kansas City (p. 47) to the vegan menu on offer at Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast (p. 15) to the Center for Plant-Based Living (p. 58).

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Until next time,

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

Fr om ha nd s- on co ok in g s cl as se s to de li ci ou an pl , ts en ev ta st in g th e mo nt hs ah ea d w it h fe as t

CALENDAR STL | 3/25 Schnucks Cooks: Vegetable Paella Wed., March 25, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road,

A Tale of Two Highs

Des Peres, Missouri; nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to build a paella to develop its quintessential flavor. Together, the class will make three paellas using three different types of rice for the ultimate taste test.

stl | 4/3 Sake and Sakura

C O N T A C T

Fri., April 3, 5:30 to 8:30pm; $20 for garden members, $25 for nonmembers; Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri; mobot.org/drinks

Bask in the arrival of spring by sipping sake under the flowering cherry blossoms (sakura) of the Japanese Garden. Must be 21 or older to attend.

Sgf | 4/16 A

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DR IN

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Thu., April 16, 6 to 9pm; Savoy Ballroom,

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Taste and Toast: Springfield FO

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G R A P E F U R I T

H A Z Y

224 E. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/feast-taste-toast-springfield

R A D L E R

Come celebrate the Springfield Feast 50 winners of 2020! Sample bites and beverages from the best food and drink establishments in the city while listening to live music from Shaun Munday and more.

STL | 4/21 Taste of the Nation Tue., April 21, 6:30 to 9pm; $75 for early bird and $90 for general; Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, Missouri; nokidhungry.org/stlouis

NOW AVAILABLE

No child should go hungry – whether in St. Louis or across the country. Join the city’s finest chefs, sommeliers and mixologists for Taste of the Nation, with 100 percent of local proceeds supporting the No Kid Hungry campaign. Enjoy bite-size fare, craft cocktails and delectable desserts while mingling with St. Louis’ top tastemakers – all of whom are donating their time, talent and passion to end childhood hunger. / ma r c h 2 02 0

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episode: Funky Farms

revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes!

Shrimp Empanadas serves 4 to 6 recipe by Catherine Neville

Empanada Dough 3 cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup cold unsalted butter (1½ sticks), cut into cubes 1 egg ¼ cup cold water

Crema 1 cup crème fraîche juice of ½ lime 1 pinch salt Shrimp Filling olive, avocado or sesame oil ½ red onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 jalapeño, diced 8 cherry tomatoes, quartered ½ cup pinto, black or white beans 2 cups chopped fresh shrimp salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 handful cilantro, chopped juice of ½ lime

/ preparation – empanada dough / In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt and

baking powder. Add butter and work until it forms pea-size balls. Add egg and work into mixture until dough is somewhat smooth. Add 2 tablespoons water and knead, adding more water (1 tablespoon at a time) if necessary, until the dough begins to come together. Flour a clean work surface, turn dough out of bowl and knead until smooth and elastic. Form into a disc, cover with plastic wrap, transfer to refrigerator and allow to rest for an hour or overnight. / preparation – crema / In a bowl, combine all ingredients. Chill until ready to use. / preparation – shrimp filling / Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion

and cook until it begins to caramelize, then add garlic, jalapeño, tomatoes and beans.

(Add water if necessary to keep from burning.) Once tomatoes begin to cook down and mixture is bubbling, add shrimp and season with salt and pepper to taste; stir until shrimp is cooked through. Add cilantro and lime juice and toss to combine. Taste and

Revisit some of host Cat Neville’s favorite funky farms in this “best of” episode. Meet the farmer raising elk near Ste. Genevieve; head to a freshwater trout farm where the fish swim in cold, clear spring-fed water; see how a family turned their kids’ science project into a thriving seafood business; and explore College of the Ozarks, where students pay zero tuition and work on the school’s farm to cover the cost of their education. Throughout the episode, Cat will show you how to make shrimp-stuffed empanadas with a tangy crema.

adjust seasoning. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. / assembly / Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll into a

log shape; cut into even pieces and then roll each piece into a disc approximately 6 inches in diameter. Spoon approximately 2 tablespoons shrimp filling onto each disc and fold dough over, crimping the edges. Place formed empanadas on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and brush with egg wash. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and serve empanadas with crema.

check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:

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PROMOTI ON

PROMOTION

Springfield, pringfield, Missouri great food, a unique history

BY AUBREY BYRON

“The birthplace of Route 66” remains as culturally significant today as it did when the famous highway connecting Chicago to Los Angeles broke ground in 1926. The comfortably sized city in the heart of the Ozarks features some of the best attractions Missouri has to offer. In the past year, its History Museum on the Square was hailed as the “#1 Best New Attraction” by USA Today. Meanwhile the impressive food scene boasts an expansive catalog of new restaurants and inventive menus for a city of its size.

HISTORY MUSEUM The five floors of interactive history displays are unlike any you may have experienced. Guests can compare their shot to Wild Bill Hickok or drive a trolley down memory lane – literally – in a simulation of the progression of history. Other exhibits include Native Crossroads at the Spring, the Civil War, Pioneers and Founders and, of course, the Birthplace of Route 66. Whether you want to watch a film from the backseat of a Chevrolet, crawl into a historically accurate teepee or learn from an unfettered number of interpretive displays, the History Museum on the Square is truly a cultural experience.

FOOD TRUCK PARK A brand-new Route 66 Food Truck ruck Park exemplifies all the various cuisines the city has to offer. The year-round park features a square of picnic seating, more than eight local food trucks and a ‘50s themed diner with beverages available. The park will allow visitors an à la carte menu of diverse offerings – from established staples like the British-focused double decker, London Calling, to the newcomers like Earth’s Harvest with their 100 percent plant-based menu. The park will complement the long list of destination attractions along Route 66, such as the Car Museum and College Street Café.

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Go Out DINE & DRINK

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ON TREND

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SHOP HERE

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HOT BLOCKS

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HOMETOWN HITS

▪ KANSAS CITY

The Littlest Bake Shop Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by anna petrow

When Iris Green moved to Kansas City from Los Angeles to be closer to family, she was already an accomplished baker, cookbook author and entrepreneur.

Interested in opening a small shop where she could sell her from-scratch, small-batch baked goods, she met Zaid Consuegra Sauza and Lydia Palma, now owners of Pirate’s Bone Burgers in the Crossroads Arts District, who offered Green the space that once housed Pirate’s Bone Coffee in Brookside. After a pretty pink paint job and some whimsical floral décor, The Littlest Bake Shop debuted as the city’s first completely gluten-free and vegan bakery. Open Thursday to Sunday, it attracts a line of devotees eager to get their fill of Green’s cinnamon rolls, peach fritters and cherry buns with lemon zest fresh from the oven. The colorful and seasonal cupcakes are also a crowd-pleaser; in the past, flavors have included mint-chocolate chip, black currant-pistachio and chocolate frosted with sunflower seed butter. Pair a pastry with a plant-based drink, such as the maple café au lait made with oat milk or a lavender hot chocolate.

645 E. 59th St., Kansas City, Missouri, littlestbakeshop.com

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HOMETOWN HITS

◥ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Café Dhibs Story and photography by Tessa Cooper

▲ KANSAS CITY

Kind Food Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow

What began as a company known for catering and pop-up events in early 2018 has evolved into a shipping container café that promotes “a kinder way to eat.” Located in North Kansas City’s Iron District, Kind Food serves plant-based fare for lunch, happy hour and dinner.

Also open for a vegan-friendly brunch on Saturdays, the eatery’s notable dishes include banana French toast made with two slices of bread from Farm to Market Bread Co., a wrap filled with housemade

crispy coconut “bacon” and the warming Kind Curry bowl loaded with chickpeas, cauliflower, sweet potato, bell pepper and onion cooked in a creamy yellow curry sauce and served over fluffy seasoned quinoa. Chef-owner Phillip Jones uses neither animal products nor processed meat or cheese substitutes in his cooking, sourcing locally grown and organic produce whenever possible.

Along with his wife, Jonelle, he aims to bring a healthy dose of delicious food to the local community and perpetuate kindness to animals, to the planet and to one another.

1599 Iron St., Suite G, North Kansas City, Missouri, kindfoodkc.com

Colleen Sundlie has built an empire entirely out of dates. With her husband, Ryan, she owns Date Lady in Springfield, Missouri, and this past fall, the couple opened Café Dhibs in a former barbershop on the west side of Commercial Street. The bright and airy micro café serves glutenfree baked goods, colorful salads, grab-and-go charcuterie trays, espresso drinks and specialty beverages in which Date Lady products are always the star. Sundlie also plans to add date shakes to the menu soon. For her sweets, she replaces white sugar with nutrient-dense alternatives such as dates, honey, coconut sugar and maple syrup. The strawberry Pop-Tarts, for example, are made with almond, arrowroot and cassava flour for a healthier riff on the nostalgic childhood treat.

918 W. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri, cafedhibs.com

▶ ST. LOUIS

Utah Station written by Mabel Suen photography by rolf ringwald

St. Louis’ Benton Park neighborhood is home to a new plant-forward eatery, but it’s far from a health-food restaurant. At Utah Station, executive chef and longtime vegan Chris Bertke prepares food he craves: namely, vegan comfort food and takes on fast-food favorites, including Crack Tacos that riff on their Jack in the Box counterparts and a Big Mak. Diners can also build their own 12-inch pizza – toppings range from a vegan cheese blend, housemade vegan sausage and housemade vegan pepperoni to bacon and hamburger for the steadfast carnivores in your party.

1956 Utah St., St. Louis, Missouri, utahstation.weebly.com

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▼ ST. LOUIS

Prioritized Pastries Story and photography by Mabel Suen

The first entirely vegan and gluten-free bakery in St. Louis now has a brick-and-mortar location. After winning fans at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Prioritized Pastries opened in the Southampton neighborhood last fall, serving from-scratch sweets such as oatmeal cream pies with whipped maple filling and a take on the beloved Cosmic Brownies. Owner and pastry chef Alex Feick is a lifelong St. Louisan who worked in local restaurants and cafés for years before pursuing her passion for vegan pastries. Stop by the shop for a morning muffin or scone, or for a real treat, try Feick’s homage to petit fours: her signature sprinkle bars made of confetti cake and buttercream.

4904 Devonshire Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, prioritizedpastries.com

to choose between classics such as “mozzarella” knots, pesto pasta, lasagna, pizza and New York-style cheesecake – all vegan-friendly.

Written by Tessa Cooper Venture into other non-vegan parts of photography by anne mauldin the menu and you’ll find unexpected Piccolo is full of pleasant surprises.

Mexican influences in dishes such as Known for its twists on traditional the jalapeño-corn brûlée rigatoni and Italian fare, the restaurant in Nixa, Italian nachos smothered in creamy Missouri, is also committed to serving Alfredo sauce. Chef-owner Steve a wide selection of flavorful plantD'Arpino is no stranger to southwest based food. Herbivores will struggle Missouri’s Italian food scene: His ▲ NIXA, MO.

Piccolo

father and mother, Mark and Mary Ann D'Arpino, owned and operated the now-shuttered D'Arpino's Italian Cafe in Springfield. Although he’s happily retired, Mark still stops by Piccolo every day to help prep his famous marinara sauce for dishes such as the spaghetti and meatballs, eggplant Parmesan and beef-stuffed ravioli.

107 W. Aldersgate Drive, Suites 1 & 2, Nixa, Missouri, eatpiccolo.com

▶ CAPE GIRARDEAU, MO.

Trio Written by Kasey Carlson / photography courtesy of trio

Fueled by their passion for plants – and their love of restaurants – Laura Schumpert and Yvonne Randolph opened Trio, a fast-casual concept that serves 100-percent plant-based cuisine, in Cape Girardeau, Missouri. Defined by the pair as comfort food with a modern flair, Trio’s menu includes a variety of dishes such as a Buffalo “chicken” sandwich with coconut cheese and vegan ranch, pasta topped with steamed broccoli and housemade creamy Cajun cashew Alfredo sauce and loaded nachos smothered in quinoa taco meat, plant-based nacho cheese and cashew sour cream. Schumpert says the goal is not to be as good as the original version, but better, so guests can rest assured that they’ll never have to sacrifice flavor.

1027 Broadway St., Cape Girardeau, Missouri, triorestaurantcape.com / ma r c h 2 02 0

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B arbecu e join ts may be th e final fr on tier fo vegan fo r odies. Fo rtuna tely , from jack fr uit pulled po rk to tofu burn t en ds , Miss ouri’s ca nonically carnivoro us ea teri e s a re proving tha t veg an barbe cue dish be just a es can s fingerlicking g o od as their me a t y co u n terpart s .

– Lillian

Sto n e

ST. LOUIS

barbecue jackfruit nachos

KANSAS CITY

An all-vegan mobile food cart has taken Kansas City by storm. Peaceful Pig Vegan BBQ uses jackfruit and portabella mushroom to mimic meaty textures, resulting in a wide array of hearty barbecue dishes, including a highly convincing pulled “pork” sandwich made with applewood-smoked shredded jackfruit. The sandwich is best enjoyed topped with Peaceful Pig’s spicy tomato-based Kansas City-style sauce, alongside a side of baked beans and creamy vegan coleslaw.

facebook.com/ peacefulpigveganbbq

Sue Patterson director of marketing & events

Since opening last October, Knockout BBQ has developed a following for its globally-inspired takes on traditional American barbecue.

The restaurant, which shares a space with boisterous brunch spot Rooster, also offers one of the most veganinclusive menus in town thanks to contributions from Small Batch chef Jerremy Kirby. The smoked jackfruit is a popular limited-time special, featuring rubbed and smoked jackfruit over a hominy-sweet potato succotash. Pair the platter with the housemade barbecue seitan skewers served with a zesty Koreaninspired dipping sauce.

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SHOP HERE

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HOT BLOCKS

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Manchester, Missouri Eco-friendly comfort food is the name of the game at the second location of Smokee Mo’s St. Louis BBQ, where all of the vegan dishes – sides included – are made to order in-house. The diverse and decisively creative selection of meat-free barbecue options includes a vegan Sriracha brat served on fresh pita with onion, pepper and a spicy-sweet chile sauce. Burgers, barbecue jackfruit nachos, a BLT and tofu burnt ends have also found their way onto the extensive vegan menu, along with stick-to-your ribs sides such as mac ‘n’ cashew cheese and red potato salad.

HOMETOWN HITS

vegan Sriracha brat

110 Old Meramec Station Road, Manchester, Missouri, smokeemosstlouisbbq.com photo by paige mcdonald

tofu burnt ends

mac 'n' cashew cheese

3150 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, knockoutstl.com

The City Market in Kansas City 14

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Peaceful Pig Vegan BBQ

“As a non-vegan, I can say that [the pulled ‘pork’] sandwich is beyond belief in terms of texture and flavor. It’s always important to consider reducing [our] impact on the environment with meat-free options, and Peaceful Pig makes that really easy.”

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

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caledonia, MO.

with Jon Emanuel, co-owner, Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast Explain your abrupt transition to a meat-free diet. I was in shock when I realized that I couldn’t eat meat anymore.

I had a mourning period. As it started to kick in, I thought, this can’t be. I thought, this is going to change who you are at your core. Can you even be a chef with this [limitation]? It took several months to get back in my groove. I wasn’t starting out green, with no cooking experience, which put me ahead of the game in terms of how to develop recipes, change things, improve things and make them my own. It took a while, but now that I’m there, I feel fine – I’m getting downright enthusiastic about it.

How did you start transitioning the menu?

I didn’t know much about vegan cooking at the time. I knew we had to do some research, which [Penny] was happy about.

We headed up to St. Louis and visited a few places. I was inspired – not only because vegan food could be so good, but technique is a big part of it, and I know technique. We started to make the transition in January 2019, and by June 1, we didn’t have a scrap of animal product in the house.

Written by Emily Wasserman / photography by emmalee henley

In 2018, Jon Emanuel’s life changed forever. A renowned chef and avid carnivore, Emanuel developed a rare allergy called alpha-gal syndrome, which he contracted from a tick bite, and had to promptly give up mammalian meat. After a self-professed “mourning period,” he and his wife, Penny Province, decided to make the menu of the Old Caledonian Bed & Breakfast in Caledonia, Missouri, entirely vegan. It didn’t take long for Emanuel to find his stride in a plant-based kitchen, and the inn now boasts out-of-the-box vegan fare for breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner. Banana-pecan pancakes, jackfruit pozole served with housemade corn tortillas and a layered cake of farinata (a type of thin, unleavened pancake made from chickpea flour), mushrooms, tomatoes and spinach promise to satisfy even the most dubious diners. “I still have my carnivore palate, so if it tastes good to me, it will taste good to anybody,” he says.

What is your inspiration for the new menu?

I want the food to be universally liked. I use fresh ingredients; I put twists on things that have meat in them. I make a vol-au-vent, which could easily have lamb or [another] meat in it, and I turned it into a mushroom dish – mushrooms are a godsend in vegan cooking. The biggest challenge for me was eggs because only eggs do what eggs do.

We had to experiment with ways to hold pancakes together and a few other things.

Once those fell into place, the recipes started coming out. I try to keep things as authentic as possible. If [a dish has] tofu or seitan or another protein substitute, I make it as interesting and palatable as possible, and not in your face. I want to naturally convince someone that this is good stuff.

If you could go back to eating meat, would you? At this point, I would say no. I would also add that if I had never gotten the tick bite, I would still be eating meat. I used to eat anything; I ran an adventurous-eater club and we ate the craziest stuff we could find. The way I look at it, I’ve lived a culinary life of adventure that would satisfy five lives. Now, it’s time to try something different, and I’m fine with it.

116 S. State Highway 21, Caledonia, Missouri, oldcaledonian.com

3

must-try dishes at

old caledonian bed & breakfast

sausage roll

For this Scottish-style sausage roll, Emanuel mixes a mushroom base with walnuts, miso and sundried tomatoes and then wraps the vegan sausage in puff pastry and bakes it.

butternut-apple gnocchi

Emanuel loves to put a plant-based spin on pasta. This irresistible gnocchi is cooked in a maple-sage “butter” with pecans. It’s a regular on the dinner menu, which is available upon request.

fried green tomatoes

The fried green tomatoes are considered a traditional breakfast dish at the B&B. Topped with cherry tomato-tarragon salsa and avocado, they’re served with a side of fresh fruit. / ma r c h 2 02 0

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◀ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Culture Counter Story and photography by Tessa Cooper

At Culture Counter, the highly anticipated café and market in Springfield, Missouri, owner and operator Bryce Gott and kitchen and product manager Shawnee Bullette take their pledge to support local businesses seriously. The pair has curated seasonal produce and other pantry essentials from more than 35 southwest Missouri vendors. Perched on the market’s shelves, products from Date Lady, Grove Salsa Co. and Millsap Farms encourage shoppers to fill up their basket, while tempting aromas simultaneously draw them into the café. Boasting a green monochromatic color scheme and build-your-own waffle and salad bars, the café is a great place to enjoy breakfast or lunch with the family. After a soft opening early this month, Culture Counter's grand opening is set for March 21.

607 S. Pickwick Ave., Springfield, Missouri, culturecountercommons.com

Must−Try

menu items

Gluten-Free Waffles

Housemade Honey Ice Cream

Egg White-Veggie Bake

from

Whether you’re in the mood for something

Local staples unite to create this sweet

Churning out enough ice cream to feed the masses

sweet or savory, the build-your-own waffle

treat – served in your choice of a waffle

takes a lot of egg yolk, and Bullette is determined

bar will satisfy your craving. Made with

cone, waffle bowl or cup. Bullette uses dairy

to cut down on as much food waste as possible.

Lucky for us, that means her egg white-veggie

Culture Counter’s Café 16

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almond flour, the gluten-free waffles pair

from Ozark Mountain Creamery, eggs from

well with bright berries – meat-lovers will

Vital Farms or Hickory Hills and honey from

bake made with seasonal vegetables, such as

be happy to know there’s bacon, too.

Mother Nature’s Best in her secret recipe.

sweet potato, onion and kale, is typically available.

PROMOTI ON

Avocados are great for the body, inside and out SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

BACON I t ’s h a rd to t h i n k o f t w o fo o ds t h a t p e o ple a r e m o r e e n t h usias t ic a b o u t t h a n b a co n a n d avo c a d o s — a n d i t t u r n s o u t t h e r e ’s b e e n a “ B a co n avo c a d o” fo r d e c a d e s ! In di ge n o us to M e x ico (a n d n a m e d a f te r Ja m e s B a co n w h o c re a te d t h e h y b r id i n t h e 19 5 0 s) , B a co n avo c a d o s a r e ov al , a n d t h ei r t h i n s ki n r e m ai n s g r e e n eve n w h e n f ull y ri p e.

Al t h o u g h t h e s e avo c a d o s d o n ’ t a c t u all y tas te li ke b a co n , t h ey a r e m ild a n d b u t te r y a n d w o r k well i n all ki n ds o f r e ci p e s .

When the U.S. lifted its ban on importing avocados from Mexico in the late 1990s, the stage was set for them to take America by storm. In the decades that followed, avocados have been mashed into dips, blended into smoothies, spread onto toast and made into facial masks.

known as riboflavin, which is essential for normal cell growth, says Dr. Cao. “And half of an avocado contains up to 50 percent of your daily recommended dose of vitamin K, which helps support bone health. The folate in avocados can help lower the risk of certain types of cancer.”

They are famously full of monounsaturated — or “healthy” — fats. “Avocados are the only fruit that contain these healthy fats, which can help reduce the bad cholesterol in your blood,” explains Dr. Yin Cao, an assistant professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine.

“They also contain niacin, which can bring down high cholesterol. With 350 milligrams of potassium per half an avocado, they can help lower blood pressure. This fruit is decidedly heart healthy.”

There are a few ways to ensure you’re picking out an avocado that is ripe and ready to use.

The fruit should be firm but give (gently) when it is squeezed.

You can also peel back the stem and check the color underneath: Green means it’s ripe, and brown means it’s overripe.

Finally, it’s best to store whole, ripe avocados in the fridge, but be sure to use them within three days.

It’s no coincidence that they sometimes take the place of meat on sandwiches: Avocados contain up to 2 grams of protein in a 100-gram serving, making them ideal for people who are looking to cut back on animal products.

They also contain vitamins C and E, as well as the B vitamin

Dr. Yin Cao Washington University assistant professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

HASS In the past 15 years Americans have tripled their avocado consumption, and that ’s largely because of the Hass, the variet y that accounts for about 95 percent of all avocados eaten in the United States. It is thanks to Hass’ long growing season and hear t y shipping abilit y that we in the Midwest are able to enjoy the fruit all year. They are famously full of fiber and good fats, and they have more potassium per ounce than bananas.

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Healthy Avocado Crema YIELDS | 4

ZUTANO In many ways the Zutano avocado is the opposite of the Hass: Its skin is glossy and green rather than bumpy and dark purple; its fat content is low, not high; its flesh is more yellow and silky than green and creamy; and it can survive cold temperatures that the Hass would freeze in.

Zutanos are in season during the winter months and can be hard to find, but they are terrific choices for those who need to watch their fat intake.

• 1 avocado

• black pepper, to taste

• 1 cup cilantro

• ¼ tsp onion powder

• juice from 2 limes

• ¼ tsp ground cumin

• juice from ½ lemon

• water, as needed to thin

• ½ tsp salt, to taste | Preparation | Slice avocado in two. Scoop out flesh with a spoon and put into food processor, along with the rest PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER of the ingredients. Process until smooth. Serve on top of tacos, enchiladas, nachos, tortilla chips, salad or use as a dip for raw vegetables.

This avocado crema is healthy because there is no added fat. Crema often contains heavy cream, buttermilk or sour cream.

REED Reed avocados aren’t har vested until early fall, so they stay on the tree longer where they can grow to be a pound or more. Their flesh is pale gold in color, and their taste is a lot like the Reed itself: big and bold. Reeds don’t require as much water to grow as Hass avocados, making them an environmentally friendly fruit to cultivate in locations where water is scarce.

NUTRITION INFORMATION: 71 CALORIES, 5G FAT, 296MG SODIUM, 7G CARBOHYDRATE, 3G FIBER AND 1G PROTEIN

/ ma r c h 2 02 0

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tree house restaurant

pizza head

scenic Tower Grove Park and rows of beautiful brick houses. The bustling thoroughfare is a destination for adventurous eaters who want to sample delicacies from Brazil, Ethiopia, Thailand and Vietnam. More than an enclave

for international restaurants, it’s also home to some of the

best vegetarian and vegan food in the city. –Burk Krohe Brian Hardesty chef and co-founder

Guerrilla Street Food 18

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Lulu’s Local Eatery

lulu's local eatery

cafe natasha

2. MoKaBe’s

3. Tree House

Scott Sandler slings New York-style vegetarian and vegan pizza slices at this delightfully addictive hangout. The sausage and pepperoni are plant-based (not that anyone can tell the difference), and there are two 20inch vegan pies on offer: a cheese pie with housemade cashew cheese and a Margherita pie covered in coconut mozzarella.

Order something to go or stay and enjoy the divey décor and punk rock/indie jukebox that plays everything from Agent Orange to The Stooges.

Coffeehouse

Restaurant

Open morning, noon and night, MoKaBe’s Coffeehouse is usually crammed with students, young professionals and neighborhood residents alike. As the weather warms, kick back on the patio with a cup of quality java and a savory sandwich, such as the Veggie Reuben piled high with tomatoes and sauerkraut or the Portabella smothered with grilled onion, smoked Provolone and vegan pesto. The majority of the Sunday brunch buffet is also vegan: Think French toast, “crab” cakes, tofu scramble and oven-roasted potatoes.

An alluring array of from-scratch plant-based dishes beckons diners of all diets to Tree House Restaurant. All varieties of seitan, vegan cheese, pickles, sauces, dressings and desserts are made in-house, and the eatery sources local, organic and non-GMO whenever possible.

The lunch, dinner and weekend brunch menus span the gamut from fried beets to bánh mì and jambalaya to tamales, but the Cuban is the showstopper. Made with house seitan and spices, you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference between it and its meaty counterpart.

4. Lulu’s Local Eatery

South Grand Boulevard in St. Louis runs through the heart of South City, past

HOMETOWN HITS

1. Pizza Head

3196 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, pizzahead.com

st. louis

/

Lulu’s Local Eatery was a pioneer of the early food truck scene in St. Louis, parlaying its success into a brick-and-mortar restaurant in 2014. The fare is vegan, yet decidedly hearty. Try the sweet potato-black bean burger served on a pretzel bun or the Volcano Tots doused in Lulu’s chili, housemade butternut squash cheese sauce and vegan sour cream – both of which would be at home at any tailgate.

3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, luluslocaleatery.com

3606 Arsenal St., St. Louis, Missouri, mokabescoffeehouse.com

3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, treehousestl.com

5. Cafe Natasha The menu at the venerable Cafe Natasha leans toward Persian classics but takes influences from other parts of the world as well.

While the kebabs are a must, the vegetarian and vegan dishes are plentiful and packed with aromatic herbs and spices. For something special, try the Kookoo Platter, a traditional herb frittata with walnuts and spices. The vegan peppers stuffed with rice, yellow split peas, tomatoes and herbs and then topped with a sweet and savory tomato sauce are another satisfying staple. Wash it all down with a cocktail from The Gin Room, located inside the restaurant, which boasts more than 300 gins.

3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, cafenatasha.com

“Since the early years of food trucks in St. Louis, we have loved and followed Lulu’s Local Eatery. Once they planted roots on [South] Grand, we had a regular place for high-quality, creative food that also happens to be vegan. … And now they have a cool bar upstairs!”

photography by madison sanders

mokabe's coffeehouse

/

ONE ON ONE /

kansas city

with Drew Clark, Co-owner, Taqueria Vegana

ONE on

Written by April Fleming / photography by amber deery

Every Wednesday evening, a line forms outside of The Bite in Kansas City’s River Market neighborhood as chef-owner Carlos R. Mortera clears the regular fare from his kitchen. He’s then joined by his friend Drew Clark, and their weekly pop up, Taqueria Vegana, comes to life. Those people standing out in the cold are waiting for something that’s still rare in this barbecue-crazed city: a fully vegan menu featuring from-scratch dishes. Equally inspired by Latin and Asian cuisines as well as fast food, the pop up also attracts attention for its substantial portions and reasonable prices.

The menu is limited to six to eight dishes – all priced between $5 and $12 – including elote, mushroom pozole, “chorizo” nachos and a take on a beef Crunchwrap. Clark, a vegan himself, assures diners that they’ll leave satisfied: These vegan offerings are not of the sad side salad and boring mixed vegetable plate generation. Instead, Taqueria Vegana proves that good food is good food, whether it has meat or not.

What influenced Taqueria Vegana’s entirely vegan menu? It’s the same food I’ve been cooking for myself, my wife and my friends for a long time. I grew up vegetarian and recently switched to veganism. Cooking has always been a hobby of mine but also a kind of necessity. [Taqueria Vegana] started as Mexican-Latin cuisine because there’s a lot about it that works well with vegan/vegetarian dishes. It’s bright and flavorful, and rice and beans are already a big part of it so you’re not necessarily always substituting for meat. A lot of the ingredients, including proteins and meat substitutes, that we use are from Asian cuisine, and we use a lot of Asian techniques. I have been experimenting with things like banana blossoms and dried tofu skins and making a Vietnamese vegetarian ham substitute called cha lua chay. [But] we also have a passion for good junk food! That’s what can be the hardest to find as a vegan, so a lot of fast food influences come into our food as well.

What sets Taqueria Vegana’s offerings apart? The [city’s] vegetarian and vegan options have grown exponentially in the last year or two, but at most mainstream restaurants, you’re stuck with a veggie burger or a quinoa bowl. Those are great, but I don’t think it’s what a lot of people who are going vegan, or are dabbling in it, are craving. You want food that’s good and satisfying, and that’s what we do.

Have you been surprised by the customers you’re attracting? I’ve been surprised and it’s changing a lot – it’s a much larger crowd than I imagined. In the beginning, I saw a lot of younger faces, a lot of social media influencer-type people, and then it’s been kind of random. At least 50 percent [of customers] are people that aren’t necessarily vegan but are curious: They’re trying it out or trying to eat plant-based meals a few times per week. I think we offer those people comfort foods that they want. There’s definitely a demand.

23 E. 3rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/taqueriaveganakc

t - tr y di s

Taqueria Vegana

s

at

he

s mu

Clark’s take on the traditional pork and hominy stew utilizes generous slices of portabella mushrooms and dried guajillo chile to develop a rich umami flavor. Hominy and scallions add substance, and the pozole is topped with a heap of pickled onion and cilantro and served with a crispy tostada shell.

Based on the iconic Taco Bell dish but with a healthier twist, this copycat Crunchwrap has seasoned vegan ground beef filling made of textured vegetable protein. Wrapped in a flour tortilla with black beans, housemade vegan cheese, red cabbage, pico de gallo, red chile sauce, crema and a crunchy tostada, it’s then grilled to crispy perfection.

Taqueria Vegana is known for its “chorizo” nachos. Fresh corn tortillas (made without lard) are cut into quarters and fried in vegetable oil until crisp.

Topped with a delicious hot mess of spicy soy chorizo, beans, housemade vegan nacho cheese, pickled onion, radish, candied jalapeño and cilantro, it’s easy to see why they’re so popular. / ma r c h 2 02 0

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◢ MANSFIELD, MO.

These three delicious destinations have won the hearts of local diners.

Buddha bowl

Baker Creek Restaurant written by Juliana Goodwin / photo courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seed co.

There’s nothing ordinary about Baker Creek Restaurant in Mansfield, Missouri. For starters, that’s the unofficial name because there isn’t an official one. There’s no menu either.

At this casual vegan café run by Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co., chef Jenna Asher creates a new entrée every day, along with sides and a dessert, to showcase the beauty, flavors and textures of heirloom plants. The food is incredibly innovative and dependably fresh – approximately 75 percent of the menu comes from the on-site gardens and greenhouses.

Crazier yet, there’s no set price; diners pay what they wish after their meal.

Open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30am to 2pm, some open-pollinated heirloom varieties that may show up on menus throughout 2020 are Orange Hat tomatoes, Astronomy Domine corn (multicolored sweet corn), Japanese wasabi radish and Uzbek golden carrots.

2278 Baker Creek Road, Mansfield, Missouri, rareseeds.com

◢ st. louis

SweetArt written by Rachel Huffman / photography by demond meek

▲ COLUMBIA, MO.

Main Squeeze written by jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by aaron ottis

In downtown Columbia, Missouri, an organic oasis beckons. Since 1997, Main Squeeze has attracted students, residents and visitors alike with its fresh and healthy bites. Totally vegetarian, the menu focuses on flavorful, sustainable dishes such as the hearty Buddha bowl with rice, tofu, broccoli, carrots and sesame-ginger sauce and Blue Zone, a Greek-inspired wrap packed with cucumber, bell pepper, olives, lettuce, tomato, onion, Feta, hummus and lemon tahini.

Quench your thirst with one of the colorful fruit smoothies: Braveheart boasts banana, kale, pineapple, flaxseed and coconut milk, while Purple Rain mixes apple, lemon and elderberry.

28 S. 9th St., Columbia, Missouri, main-squeeze.com

From-scratch, old-school baking is an art form – one that SweetArt in St. Louis’ Shaw neighborhood has mastered through time, commitment and passion. Its colorful cupcakes and thick, fudgy brownies are just some of the sweets that will make your mouth water. The ever-changing selection includes both traditional and vegan baked goods, and over the years, owner Reine Bayoc – along with her tight-knit staff – has also developed a small, rotating, entirely vegan (except for the option of dairy cheese on some items) breakfast and lunch menu.

Although some dishes come and go, the Sweet Burger is an unwavering favorite. The plant-based burger patty is made with vegetables and lentils and considered one of the best veggie burgers in the region.

2203 S. 39th St., St. Louis, Missouri, sweetartstl.com

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Natasha Kwan, chef-owner, Frida’s and Diego’s Cantina y Cocina Written by Rachel Huffman photography by j. pollack photography

Frida’s in University City, Missouri, is the culmination of a 20-year dream. When chef-owner Natasha Kwan opened the restaurant in July 2012, its vegetarian, vegan and raw food options were extraordinary considering its size at the time. Kwan has since expanded the restaurant’s space, but she maintains the same standards: good food you can eat every day.

Frida’s menu has also evolved over the years. For example, Kwan – who calls herself the anti-sugar chef – originally refused to use potatoes in her cooking because of their high glycemic index; now she goes through more than 100 pounds a week.

“Eventually every chef and/or restaurateur listens to what the customer wants – you have to, otherwise you’re not going to be as successful as you could be,” she says. A wider variety of plant-based options have established themselves on the regular menu, as well – a shift that Kwan chalks up to the general public’s heightened curiosity of plant-based, whole-food eating. Currently, Kwan is working on opening a new Mexican concept, Diego’s Cantina y Cocina, next door to Frida’s. A departure from Frida’s cuisine but born from the same spirit, Diego’s promises to be your new favorite neighborhood hangout, offering everything from escabeche to mezcal cocktails.

Must-Try Menu Items at

Frida’s

black bean burger

The burgers at Frida’s are top-sellers, and the black bean burger served on a Breadsmith bun is especially delicious.

Topped with grilled jalapeño and red pepper, onion, tomato, avocado, organic spinach and a dairy-free Cajun aïoli, it even has star power: St. Louis Blues player Ryan O’Reilly is a big fan.

brussels sprouts

Available year-round, the Brussels sprouts at Frida’s are roasted and crispy, drizzled with a sweet and tangy balsamic vinaigrette and topped with a smattering

What does Frida’s bring to the St. Louis restaurant scene today? We’re still one of the few restaurants that dial in to soy-free, gluten-free and oil-free. We have way more oil-free options than almost any place in St. Louis or the country. I’ve been to Miami, Los Angeles, Las Vegas – these big markets – and you can barely find anything oil-free. [At Frida’s], the majority of our dressings have no oil; we don’t cook our vegetables in oil.

You don’t have to not eat oil, it’s just my preference – and 100 percent of Frida’s menu is what I like to eat. The weekly features, especially, are what I’m craving that day.

Tell us about your forthcoming concept, Diego’s. We’ve been working on it since October 2018. The building is almost 100 years old, so you do one thing, like tear a wall out, and you find all kinds of stuff you didn’t anticipate. Then, of course, we have to put everything to code, but eventually everything will be new. Culturally, there will be a similarity [between Diego’s and Frida’s]. When you walk into Frida’s, our employees are very cheerful – there’s no pretense. It’s important to my husband and me that everyone feels comfortable. This is our home; you’re coming to our house and we’re grateful that you’re here. [Diego’s] is a totally different restaurant [though]. It’s a bar that holds more than 150 people.

It’s all Mexican cuisine – not Tex-Mex; it’s Mexican. It’s not vegetarian; it’s not vegan. But I, as a chef, cook a certain way, so will it be a place where you can enjoy an authentic Mexican meal that’s more vegetable-forward?

Absolutely.

Where did the inspiration for Mexican cuisine come from? It’s always been there. If you look through the past seven and a half years that Frida’s has been open, we’ve had so much Mexican-inspired food on the menu: We’ve had tortas, elote, you name it – granted, people were iffy about the torta. [Laughs.] My husband is from a border town in Texas, in the Brownsville area across the border from Matamoros, Mexico, and he grew up on authentic Mexican cuisine. And I’m just obsessed with [it]. We live in the neighborhood – we’re four blocks away – and we want to make [Diego’s] what the neighborhood needs. What better cuisine than Mexican to celebrate community, hanging out, having a good time and being boisterous or just relaxing?

Frida’s, 622 North and South Road, University City, Missouri, eatatfridas.com Diego’s Cantina y Cocina, 630 North and South Road, University City, Missouri, diegosstl.com

of blistered cherry tomatoes.

boost

Kwan says this is a good entry-level mezcal cocktail. El Buho Mezcal, which has a more subtle smokiness than some other brands, is mixed with a housemade cherry-lavender blend and a little orange zest for an overall intoxicating experience. / ma r c h 2 02 0

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PROMOTION

ONE OF MY FONDEST CHILDHOOD MEMORIES IS PLANTING A GARDEN WITH MY MOM. Something about planting a seed and watching it grow always amazed me.

It was like magic! Fast forward to adulthood and I have a much deeper appreciation for where food comes from and how much care goes into making it grow.

Eating more plants is one of the most important things we can do for our health. That is why we have dedicated the latest issue of Simply Schnucks magazine to showing you simple, realistic ways to eat more fruits and

SUPERFOOD BERRY SALAD WITH RASPBERRY CINNAMON VINAIGRETTE SERVES 6 1 bag spring mix 2 cups quartered fresh strawberries ½ cup fresh blueberries Ÿ cup chopped red onion ½ cup edamame Ÿ cup chopped walnuts Ÿ cup crumbled blue cheese

vegetables. Grab a copy while you are in store and browse our 30+

how one simple change can affect how you feel.

If you are struggling to make this change for yourself, do it for your loved ones. Role modeling healthy habits can help children develop habits at a young age that will set them up for success throughout their lives.

At Schnucks, we believe in creating a generation of healthy kids. We are

Dressing: Âź cup raspberry vinegar 1 Tbsp olive oil 3 Tbsp coconut sugar Âź cup fresh raspberries, purĂŠed Âź tsp ground cinnamon Âź tsp hot pepper sauce 1 Tbsp chia seed

PREPARATION 1. In a large bowl combine spring mix, strawberries, blueberries, onion, edamame and walnuts. Set aside.

Â

raspberry purĂŠe, cinnamon, chia and hot pepper sauce. Shake well.

3. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad mixture and toss gently. To serve, divide mixture among 6 plates and top each with blue cheese if desired.

wonders of a supermarket while also teaching important life skills about

If you’re looking for a healthy recipe that is so delicious even your kids will love, try this Superfood Berry Salad with Raspberry Cinnamon Vinaigrette.

This quick and easy recipe reminds me of all the farmers out there that pour love and hard work into growing the foods we eat every day!

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SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE, REGISTERED DIETITIAN SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS

Stay In THE DISH / THE MIX

/ 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Housed in a century-old space – originally a Ford Model T showroom – Small Batch in Midtown is one of St. Louis’ hippest spots for vegetarian and vegan fare. Its seasonal menu riffs on global cuisine, such as fufu (a West African peanut soup) and feijoada (a Brazilian black bean stew), with a few comfort food classics, including bourbon-Buffalo cauliflower, thrown in for good measure. The sizzling vegan take on boneless chicken wings features hand-breaded cauliflower florets tossed in a spicy sauce that will leave an impression on your dinner guests. –Kasey Carlson

Recipe courtesy of Jerremy Kirby, chef de cuisine, Small Batch

-B

u

rb

o n-

ffalo

-

B ou

Photography by madison sanders

serves 2

1

4

1

4

4

2

1

1

You will need a

head cauliflower deep fryer to make cups all-purpose flour cup egg replacer this craveable cups water cauliflower. cups panko bread crumbs Tbsp bourbon Tbsp Earth Balance vegan butter cup Frank’s RedHot fresh chives, chopped, for garnish vegan ranch, to serve

/ preparation / Cut cauliflower into bite-size pieces. Add flour to a bowl. In a separate bowl, mix egg replacer and water together. Add bread crumbs to a third bowl. Bread cauliflower by dredging each piece in flour, dipping it in the egg-water mixture and then coating it in bread crumbs. Once all the cauliflower is breaded, transfer it to a deep fryer and fry until crispy, 1 to 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan, bring bourbon and butter to a boil, stirring occasionally. Boil until mixture has reduced by half and then slowly stir in hot sauce. Once mixture returns to a boil, remove from heat.

Toss deep-fried cauliflower in bourbon-Buffalo sauce. Garnish with chives and serve with ranch.

Rosie Hinderliter front of house

Tree House Restaurant

Small Batch

“The Buffalo cauliflower [at Small Batch] was one of the first regular dishes I was really comfortable with as a vegan. It’s hard to make that transfer [from chicken to cauliflower], but it’s amazing. I take my friends – my non-vegan friends – now, and I’ve never had anyone not like it.” / ma r c h 2 02 0

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THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

Salted Pomelo Sour Meet aquafaba, the viscous liquid in a can of chickpeas that’s gained acclaim for its ability to mimic egg whites in a variety of applications, including meringues and marshmallows. It’s also possible to substitute aquafaba in any egg-based sour cocktail for a silky, frothy vegan variation. This riff on the Brown Derby cocktail uses an easily made cordial from pomelo – grapefruit’s sweeter, oversized cousin – along with your favorite rye whiskey, lemon juice and a pinch of salt to set off your taste buds.

Eg

g-

lle e c n

qua f b a A t a

To extract and measure the aquafaba called for in this recipe, begin by vigorously shaking a can of unopened chickpeas. Next, open the can and strain its contents through a sieve over a bowl or liquid measuring cup – reserve chickpeas for another use.

Then, stir the liquid before measuring out the final amount. While it may not be visible to the naked eye, starches in the chickpea liquid settle in the can; in order to take advantage of them and create a successful cocktail, you need to agitate them to ensure they’re evenly distributed throughout the liquid. Store the remaining aquafaba in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to one week.

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Salted Pomelo Sour

serves 1 Pomelo Cordial (Yields approximately 8 ounces) juice of 1 heavy pomelo (approximately 8 oz), strained of pulp 1 cup white sugar Salted Pomelo Sour 2 oz rye whiskey 1 oz aquafaba 1 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice ¾ oz pomelo cordial (recipe follows) 1 pinch salt Angostura aromatic bitters, for garnish / preparation – pomelo cordial / Add both ingredients to a saucepan and heat on low, stirring constantly until sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Once cooled, bottle and refrigerate for up to one week. / preparation – salted pomelo sour / Add whiskey, aquafaba, lemon juice, cordial and salt to a shaker tin; shake vigorously for 10 to 15 seconds. Add 1 scoop of ice to shaker and shake for another 10 to 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe glass or your favorite rocks glass. Garnish with a few dashes of bitters and drink up.

ONE ON ONE /

springfield, mo.

with Ingrid Benecke-Chiles and Alex Maurer co-owners, Collective Kitchen

ONE on

pictured left to right: Alex Maurer and Ingrid Benecke-Chiles

Written by Tessa Cooper photography by beth solano

Ingrid Benecke-Chiles and Alex Maurer aim to educate the Springfield, Missouri, community on the ancient Indian practice of Ayurveda through their consultation and specialty catering business Collective Kitchen. In their one-on-one

What is Ayurveda, and why is it important? Ayurveda is a simple system of medicine that says opposites balance and like increases like. What that means is that if you’re freezing cold on a January day, and you naturally run cold, you probably shouldn’t opt for a cold, crunchy salad with raw vegetables that has been in the refrigerator [for lunch]. You should probably opt for something more warming, nourishing and grounding because that’s the opposite. –Alex Maurer Ayurveda is the sister science to yoga. Just through my interest in yoga and more plant-based, holistic eating, I connected a lot with Ayurveda – it is sort of the natural progression of diving deeper into yoga. [Alex] has done training and dove into it even more than I have, so she can just kind of connect with people’s different constitutions and get a read on how to bring them into balance with the season of food. It's like a different language; it’s more related to the elements. It’s just a fun way of eating. –Ingrid Benecke-Chiles

One of the pillars of Ayurveda is embracing seasonality, especially when it comes to produce. With March still grasping on to the tail end of winter, it’s a good time to try a new recipe with brightly colored, hearty root vegetables such as beets.

Maurer and Benecke-Chiles add a twist to this side dish with their signature cashew cream – the addition of nutritional yeast gives it a more noticeably cheesy flavor than other nut-based creams. Naturally sugar-free, gluten-free and vegan, nutritional yeast can also be used in soups, dips, salad dressings, creamy casseroles and lasagna.

approach, Maurer helps clients identify the best foods for their Ayurvedic makeup and BeneckeChiles sends them home with a plethora of recipes developed to meet their individual needs. The duo also caters yoga retreats and other gatherings, where they create dishes based on each guest’s answers on an intake form and designed to ground the group.

To sample their spreads, follow Collective Kitchen on Facebook: They regularly post pop-up menus, and then you can stop by their kitchen to pick up some of the tasty take-home meals.

What can people gain from adopting an Ayurvedic way of eating? The thing about the way we cook and eat is that it doesn’t hold [us] back; it’s not restrictive. Once you know how your body feels in health, you don’t crave the things that cause imbalance. I just want our clients to figure that out and omit all the fad diets – that could be my one goal. We want to allow our business model to take on the role of education so that our clients know what they’re eating, know why they’re eating it and understand why it’s making them feel better. That’s the mind-body connection. –A.M. What’s your long-term vision for Collective Kitchen? We definitely love doing specialty catering. I like how we get to cater to each individual’s bioindividuality. We get to feed [people] in a way that is appropriate for their body. Everyone gets an intake form, and we adapt to allergies and even preferences. It is different than general catering because we are very much committed to the individual, not just feeding the masses. I would say specialty catering is in our future as well as women’s retreats and pop-up picnics in the spring. Longer-term, we do have a vision for a place where people can sit after a yoga class and have a nourishing drink. –I.B.C. facebook.com/collectivekitchensgf

Beets with Cashew Cream

serves 3

Cashew Cream

2 cups raw cashews, soaked overnight

3 cloves raw or roasted garlic

¼ cup nutritional yeast

¼ cup olive oil

1 tsp Himalayan sea salt

1 cup water juice of 1½ lemons, pulp strained

1 tsp lemon pulp Beets with Cashew Cream 5 to 7 whole beets cashew cream (recipe follows) fresh parsley, rosemary and/or sage, for garnish flaked sea salt and/or extra- virgin olive oil, for garnish

/ preparation – cashew cream / Add all ingredients to a food processor and blend until smooth. / preparation – beets with cashew cream / Scrub beets clean and then cut larger beets to match the size of smaller whole beets as needed for even cook time. Set a large pot with water over high heat; add beets and boil until tender, approximately 20 minutes. Strain beets and allow to cool slightly before removing skins; slice or quarter based on preference. Dress beets with cashew cream. Garnish with fresh seasonal herbs, flaked sea salt and olive oil as desired and serve. / ma r c h 2 02 0

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THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Serves 4

“Crab” Cakes Dipping Sauce ½ cup mayonnaise 1 tsp paprika juice of ¼ lime salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

These don’t taste very much like crab, but I’d have to argue that sometimes neither does the original. For me, it’s all about the texture and the dipping sauce, and this recipe is a slam dunk on both counts.

“Crab” Cakes 3 Tbsp panko bread crumbs 2 Tbsp Greek yogurt 1 egg, lightly beaten juice of ¼ lime ½ cup diced red onion 1 Tbsp chopped cilantro ¼ tsp dried mustard ¹⁄₈ tsp allspice ¼ tsp paprika ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 1 dash ground cayenne pepper 16 oz prepared jackfruit

/ preparation – dipping sauce / In a small bowl,

combine all ingredients. Store in refrigerator for up to three days. / preparation – “crab” cakes / In a medium bowl, add all ingredients except jackfruit; mix until well blended. Add jackfruit and fold into mixture. Line a plate with wax paper. Scoop out 2 to 3 tablespoons of jackfruit mixture, form into a ball, place on plate and flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Repeat with remaining jackfruit mixture. Transfer plate with crab cakes to refrigerator and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to one day.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Add a little vegetable oil to a baking sheet and arrange jackfruit cakes on top.

Brush more vegetable oil on top of each cake. Bake for 25 minutes, or until outside is golden. Remove and serve with dipping sauce.

Serves 4

Asian “Chicken” Lettuce Wraps

2

2 16

1

1

1 3 to 4

Tbsp sesame oil, divided cloves garlic, minced oz prepared jackfruit yellow onion, diced green bell pepper, diced 8-oz can water chestnuts, chopped Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce

1

1 ½

8

tsp honey tsp chopped fresh basil tsp ground ginger salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste leaves Boston lettuce

/ preparation / In a large pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon sesame oil and garlic; cook These faux-chicken lettuce wraps are not only healthy, they’re also incredibly satisfying. And

Growing up with a father known as the “BBQ King”

they can easily be made in less than 30 minutes.

to family and friends, I never strayed from my carnivorous

until garlic is fragrant, approximately 30 seconds. Add jackfruit and cook for 5 minutes.

Remove jackfruit from pan and set aside.

In the same pan over medium heat, add remaining sesame oil, onion and pepper; sauté until onions are translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add water chestnuts and cooked jackfruit. Add soy sauce, honey, basil and ginger; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from heat and scoop approximately ¹⁄₃ cup of mixture into each lettuce cup. Serve with a side of soy sauce.

ways. That is, until I went to visit him and he served me his new “meat” of choice: jackfruit. The chameleon of meat

Yields 4 to 6 sliders

substitutes, jackfruit’s texture mimics those of the meat

Pulled “Pork” Sliders

world, and it will take on any flavor that you add to it.

For these recipes, first you’ll need to prepare the jackfruit.

If you want to use fresh jackfruit, I suggest buying it precut, as the process to halve the large, heavy fruit and extract the edible bulbs is difficult. If using canned jackfruit, drain

I whip up these pulled

and rinse it. Quarter each bulb of jackfruit (fresh or canned),

“pork” sliders when I’m

place the pieces in a small pan and just cover with water.

craving meat, but I don’t

Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then reduce heat to

have time to make the

simmer and cook until jackfruit is tender, approximately 30 minutes (fresh may take as long as 45 minutes).

Once tender, use a fork to pull jackfruit apart, then drain and allow to cool.

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real thing. If you’re averse to spice, you can leave out the habanero in the marinade.

Marinade 1 habanero 1 jalapeño 7 cloves garlic 1 Tbsp vegetable oil ½ cup light beer 2 tsp paprika 2 tsp salt 1 Tbsp garlic powder ¼ cup honey Pulled “Pork” Sliders 20 oz prepared jackfruit marinade (recipe follows) ½ cup hot sauce 3 Tbsp butter 4 buns coleslaw (optional)

/ preparation – marinade / Add all ingredients to a food

processor and blend until just processed. (Peppers and garlic should be minced, but not puréed.) / preparation – pulled “pork” sliders / Add jackfruit to a

zip-close freezer bag. Pour marinade over jackfruit, seal bag and transfer to refrigerator; allow to soak at least 3 hours or overnight.

Once jackfruit is done marinating, remove from bag and pat dry. Set a large pan over medium heat and add jackfruit; cook for approximately 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and add hot sauce and butter. (Butter will melt as it’s tossed.) Serve on a bun with coleslaw and any condiments you’d like, such as blue cheese dressing or ranch.

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27

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

KimchiJ jigae

It’s hard to pinpoint when my love affair with kimchi began, but over time, it has shifted, evolved and ultimately solidified itself as an unconditional affection that warms my soul. Now that we’ve established the deep admiration I have for this fermented vegetable – typically Napa cabbage or Korean radish – let’s talk about one of my favorite ways to use it.

Jjigae is a Korean dish similar to Western stew, traditionally served boiling hot in a communal dish. This vegan version is just as hearty as the meat and seafood varieties, and the type of kimchi you use will determine its spice level.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri photography by kim wade

serves 4 to 6 4 1 1 2

4

1 2 2 ¹⁄₃ 2 1

2 1

Tbsp canola oil, divided carrot, peeled and cut on the bias onion, julienned tsp salt, plus more for seasoning freshly ground black pepper, to taste shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced Tbsp gochujang cups kimchi cups water cup mirin tsp brown sugar 16-oz package firm tofu, drained and large dice Tbsp cornstarch cup thinly sliced scallions cooked short-grain white rice, for serving

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons canola oil. Add carrot and onion and season with salt and pepper to taste; cook for 5 to 8 minutes until caramelized. Add mushrooms and gochujang; cook for an additional minute.

Add kimchi, water, mirin and brown sugar; simmer until flavors come together, 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste and set aside.

In a small bowl, combine tofu, cornstarch and 2 teaspoons salt. Add remaining oil to a medium sauté pan. Add tofu and sauté until brown and crisp on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add tofu to stew. Spoon stew into bowls and garnish with scallions. Serve with rice.

EDITOR’S NOTE: More often than not, kimchi is flavored with some salty elements of the sea, such as shrimp paste and fish sauce. To keep this recipe 100 percent vegan, make sure you pick up a jar of vegan kimchi or make your own at home.

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pair with: Effervescent Rosé

The BIAS CUT A bias cut means cutting on a diagonal: Hold the ingredient at a slight angle to the knife and slice. To learn more about knife cuts, turn to p. 40.

The gochujang A red chile paste, gochujang can be found at most local Asian markets.

Look for the O’Food brand.

The kimchi Mother-in-Law’s kimchi is a delicious introductory choice; it’s available at grocery stores and markets throughout the state, as well as online at milkimchi.com.

The mirin This subtly sweet, slightly tangy rice wine is available at most well-stocked grocery stores and markets. Try Kikkoman brand.

The tofu If you’re in Kansas City or Lawrence, Kansas, look for Central Soyfoods’ locally made organic tofu in area retailers such as Natural Grocers and The Merc Co+op.

PA I R IT!

A light and refreshing sparkling wine pairs well with the deliciously bold flavors of this dish. Opt for the semi-dry Effervescent Rosé from Pirtle Winery in Weston, Missouri; its bright acidity and fruit-forward nature will make your taste buds dance. –Hilary Hedges pirtlewinery.com

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29

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Ice cream has a special way of connecting people. For Tamara Keefe, founder and CEO of Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery, it gave her an entirely new sense of community as a child. From churning ice cream with a $2 hand crank as a familial Sunday tradition to opening the award-winning creamery in St. Louis, the entrepreneur remains devoted to bringing folks together. Some of her handcrafted, small-batch creations are even dairy-free. In a mouthwatering remake of the classic flavor, tart lemon mixes with the subtle nuttiness of poppy seeds, while decadent chocolate, rich coconut cream and slightly sweet coconut milk combine in the coconut-chocolate fudge. Feeling naughty? Try the alcohol-infused pink Champagne sorbet. These and other vegan flavors are available at Clementine’s three storefront locations as well as online at clementinescreamery.com.

Vegan food has long gotten a bad rap for being flavorless and overly fussy. In the past, plant-based cheese and ice cream simply couldn’t hold their own against the decadent nature of the originals. Today, a new breed of entrepreneurs and artisans are working hard to change all that.

From cheesy sauces to sweet scoops, these local products make it easier – and tastier – than ever to go dairy-free.

Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by chris bauer

Cara Schloss

co-owner, Seedz Provisions and Seedz Café 30

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 0

Three Vegan Brothers

When Mary Austin’s three sons simultaneously switched to a plant-based diet, she was amazed at the positive effect it had on their health. She became determined to create a plant-based cheese that would mimic, if not surpass, the texture, flavor and applications of dairy-based cheese. Along with her sons, Austin launched Three Vegan Brothers in 2013. Today, the St. Louis-based company sells aged, air-dried plant-based cheese rounds made with organic cashews as well as spreadable plant-based cream cheese. Both types come in four flavors: Smokee with a robust smoky flavor, Hot Dayum made with jalapeños and Fresno chiles, the even spicier Skull & Crossbones and, many people’s favorite, the roasted garlic and herb Vampire Killa. Several St. Louis establishments carry its products, but Three Vegan Brothers also ships across the country. threeveganbrothers.com Health begins with one small – and delicious – change in the kitchen. For CORE + RIND owners and culinary nutrition experts Candi Haas and Rita Childers, that change was cheese. Living in St. Louis, the friends spent a year and a half developing their creamy, plant-based Cashew Cheesy Sauce, which has whole, non-GMO ingredients – all of which you can pronounce. They labored over the recipe – making it more than 150 times – until they were sure that they had a great-tasting, shelf-stable product without preservatives, chemical additives, gums or fillers. Also free of dairy, gluten, soy and grain, the sauce is packed with healthy fats, nourishing spices and plant power. It’s available in original, smoky and spicy chipotle at select markets and grocery stores throughout the state and across the country, as well as online at coreandrind.com.

“Three Vegan Brothers makes the most delicious, creamy artisanal nut-based cheese. Vampire Killa is my favorite. It’s perfect to share with a friend who also likes [it]. (Hint: The garlic is potent!)”

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31

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Herby Dulse Risotto with Charred Vegetables

serves 4

¹⁄₃ cup, plus 2 Tbsp, olive oil, divided

¾ oz whole-leaf dulse

1 lb asparagus, ends trimmed

2 medium bulbs fennel, sliced tip to tail in ¹⁄₈-inch slices kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 cup onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup Arborio rice

½ cup white wine 3½ cups vegetable broth, heated to a simmer on stove

½ cup Parmesan, grated

²⁄₃ cup fresh parsley, chopped, plus more for garnish

¹⁄₃ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped juice of 2 medium lemons

½ Tbsp lemon zest

But will it bacon?

/ preparation / Heat ¹⁄₃ cup oil in a small stainless steel skillet over medium heat. Drop a few leaves of dulse into the oil and cook for a few seconds until crisp and bubbly; remove immediately and transfer to a towel-lined plate. Repeat until all dulse is crisped.

Set aside.

Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss asparagus and fennel in 1 tablespoon oil. Lay in a single layer on lipped sheet pans and season with salt and pepper. Roast in oven, 15 to 18 minutes until deep brown on underside. Remove as you finish the risotto.

Meanwhile, heat remaining oil and butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in rice and cook, 1 minute. Add wine and let bubble,

What Is It?

What Do I Do With It?

2 minutes. Using a large ladle, add one ladle of hot broth to risotto,

Dulse is a red algae with slender leaves that

Fry it – in mere seconds, you’ll have an oddly craveable

stirring for 3 minutes until liquid has absorbed. Repeat, stirring

grows on the northern coasts of the Atlantic

treat with kale-chip crackle. Does it taste exactly like

slowly but constantly, until risotto is creamy and cooked, 16 to 18

and Pacific Ocean. It’s new to us, but not to

bacon? No, but comparing algae to pork seems unfair.

minutes. (You may have a small amount of broth left over.) Remove

others: Centuries ago, people began harvesting

Dulse has a smoke-meets-sea flavor profile that fits

from heat and fold in Parmesan, then add parsley, mint, lemon juice

dulse to use as a seasoning. Eat it raw and you’ll

in places where bacon tends to land, bringing its own

and zest. Season generously with salt and pepper to taste.

personality to the party. Satisfy your curiosity and craft

/ to serve / Just before serving, crumble dulse and fold into risotto. Divide risotto into low bowls and then divide asparagus and fennel slices over the top. Garnish with parsley and serve hot.

notice chewiness with a distinct beachside flavor, while cooking it tamps down the sea and transforms it into a crisp, smoky snack.

a “DLT.” Dulse’s crunch also makes it ideal for topping potato skins, popcorn, eggs and avocado halves.

Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

32

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Waiting to add the dulse until serving time will help keep its crispy texture intact.

You can find whole-leaf dulse at Whole Foods Market or online.

There’s nothing I love more than an herb-filled risotto in the spring, and crispy dulse folded into this recipe at the end adds an element of texture and flavor that you won’t find anywhere else.

pair with: Blonde Ale

PA I R IT!

Single Speed, an American blonde ale from 4 Hands Brewing Co., offers a soft, delicate mouthfeel that fences (but never outclasses) this rich, silky risotto. The brew’s slightly fruity, almost lemony overtones confess the natural and deliberate citrus additions, while the hop bitterness and lavender conduct the chorus of fresh herbs, roasted flowering vegetables and coastal campfire crunch of algae in the dish. –JC Sandt 4handsbrewery.com

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33

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Vegan mousse

Dark Chocolate-Espresso

This boosts the espresso flavor and aroma of the mousse.

Try Medaglia d’Oro instant espresso coffee, found at most local grocery stores.

Reminiscent of biting into a silky chocolate truffle, this dark chocolate mousse is intense and luxurious.

yields 4 4-oz servings

10

1

½ ¹⁄₈

oz 63 to 70 percent high-quality dark chocolate, chopped cup freshly brewed espresso or strong coffee tsp instant espresso coffee tsp fine sea salt

/ preparation / Prepare an ice bath by filling the bottom of a large bowl with ice cubes and 1 inch of water. Set aside.

In a small bowl, place chopped chocolate. In a small saucepan, bring freshly brewed espresso or strong coffee, instant espresso coffee and salt to a boil.

Pour over chopped chocolate and whisk together until melted and smooth.

The technique – originally conceived

by Hervé This, the father of molecular gastronomy – could not be simpler. You need just two ingredients (dark chocolate and water) to create a velvety mousse in mere minutes. It may seem crazy, but it works. I’ve substituted water with freshly brewed espresso in this recipe; you can add your favorite liqueurs and spices to further enhance the vegan indulgence.

Place bowl of chocolate mixture into the ice bath and whisk constantly until mixture thickens to the consistency of soft peak whipped cream, approximately 2 to 5 minutes. Immediately remove bowl from ice bath and evenly distribute mousse into individual cups. Garnish with any desired toppings and enjoy immediately.

The mousse will continue to firm up as it sits, so serve right away in order to experience the lightest texture. If it becomes too firm, stir vigorously for a few seconds until it softens.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

pair with: Stoutly Rum

PA I R IT!

Dark chocolate and espresso call for something special, and Soulard Island Stoutly Rum is just that. Not your typical rum, it’s aged in stout barrels with charred oak chips, lending characteristics of roasted cocoa and caramel to the spirit. I don’t usually reach for rum in dessert pairings, but a rich dessert that contains bitter undertones makes this sipping-style rum shine.

–Jenn Tosatto soulardisland.com

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Happy Hour

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35

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Vegetable Paella There are two essential ingredients in this paella: vegetable stock and rice. Together, they create the foundation of the dish, so you want to use the highest quality you can find. Paella is traditionally made with Bomba rice – also referred to as Valencian rice. The short-grain rice can absorb three times its volume in liquid, and when cooked, the grains don’t stick together. Note: The rice in paella should be dry and separate, not creamy like risotto, when done.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

In this class, you’ll learn how to build a paella in order to develop its quintessential layers of flavor, and how saffron alters the flavor, not just the color of the dish.

Together, the class will make three paellas using three different types of rice for the ultimate taste test.

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., March 25, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 36

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serves 4 to 6 6 to 8

2

6 ¼

1

1

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

2

whole tomatoes from 28-oz can San Marzano tomatoes, juice reserved Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt cups vegetable stock cup ghee fennel bulb, chopped onion, minced Tbsp minced garlic cup sugar snap peas can cannellini beans, drained small zucchini, cut into quarter moons tsp smoked paprika pinches saffron cups Bomba or Calasparra rice freshly ground black pepper, to taste Tbsp minced parsley

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. In a bowl, add tomatoes and oil; toss to coat and sprinkle with one large pinch of salt. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 12 minutes, or until slightly charred. Remove from oven and set aside.

Leave oven at temperature.

In a saucepan, heat stock until steaming (just under a boil). Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan over medium high heat, add ghee and cook until hot. Add fennel and onion

and season with one large pinch of salt; sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but not brown. Add garlic, peas, beans and zucchini and season with one large pinch of salt; sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in juice from can of tomatoes, paprika and saffron and cook for another minute. Stir in rice and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once rice is heated, carefully ladle hot stock into pan and stir to incorporate. Top rice mixture with tomatoes and their juices and season with one large pinch of salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer pan to oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until rice is tender. If rice becomes too dry, add extra stock or water. When rice is ready, remove from oven and set over medium high heat to develop a bottom crust if desired. Let dish sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then garnish with parsley and serve hot.

MAKE THE MEAL • • • • •

Mixed Greens and Shallot Salad Vegetable Paella Fire-Roasted Red Peppers and Chiles in Oil Fried Plantains No-Bake Vegan Chocolate Crunch Brownies

CULINARY LIBRARY /

kansas city

with Kathy Hale, owner, canihaveabite t

Kathy Hale began her culinary career by learning how to make gluten-free, dairy-free and plantbased meals for herself. Later, she started cooking for her Pilates students at their request. Her meal-prep business, Canihaveabite, has since expanded and now also serves fresh and flash-frozen meals at a fast-casual restaurant of the same name, which Hale recently relocated to the former Eden Alley Vegetarià space on Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza. Boasting an adorable outdoor space, the eatery offers weekly menus featuring delicious organic dishes for everyone. Expect anything from sage-roasted Brussels sprouts to ginger-carrot soup to vegetable gratin to make an appearance. Here, Hale describes three cookbooks that have brought her this far. –Jenny Vergara

The Vegetarian Epicure

by Anna Thomas (1972)

by Edward Espe Brown (1970) “My first attempt at bread-making was when I was 16 years old. I failed miserably, as my whole-wheat bread never grew past a log of heavy, flat dough. However, I noticed my sister seemed gifted with the ability to effortlessly make whole-grain breads that were light and delicious – her secret was The Tassajara Bread Book. This book takes the mystery out of the chemistry of bread-making and replaced my anxiety with a Zen approach.”

Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain

by Penelope Casas (1985) “Small plates have always appealed to me – the variety of flavors and textures are so deliciously satisfying. My copy [of this book] is stained and worn and still pulled out anytime I need inspiration.

This past summer, I made a tapas bowl for our Summer in the City special, so you could say this book has been feeding me inspiration for almost 30 years.”

/ ma r c h 2 02 0

photography by zach bauman

“I started cooking in the 1970s when the organic movement was born and the move from processed foods to ‘natural’ became the trend. I was young and broke, with a budget that could afford only vegetables, beans and grains. ‘… the only rules about arranging meals which need to be taken seriously are the rudimentary ones of pleasing the palate and maintaining good health.’ With this introduction, The Vegetarian Epicure became my mantra for cooking on a budget and ultimately guided my entire approach to food.”

The Tassajara Bread Book

37

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

steak knife

It’s time to level up your knife game, but with a slew of options out there, where does one begin? Simple: Assess your kitchen routine.

What do you eat, and what do you prep the most? Once you’ve answered those questions, find the type of knives that fit your lifestyle and buy those that feel good in your hand. A comfortable, reliable chef’s knife, for example, can change your entire perspective on cooking, making even the most arduous prep work go by in a flash.

A quality, individualized knife set is an investment, so you will have to spend money, but as you slice and dice your way through dinner like a worldclass ninja, you’ll appreciate the splurge. Abide by a few dos and don’ts in terms of maintenance and care, and your new sidekicks will last for years.

Quite obviously used for steaks, it’s practical for any meat you need to cut.

Boning Knife Deftly removes meat from bones without shredding its flesh – or yours – to bits.

Carving Knife santoku Capable of nearly anything, its unique blade design also keeps food from clinging to it, so you won’t have to stop to wipe it off.

Bread/ Serrated Knife Great for bread – which goes without saying – it’s also a sure advantage when slicing cake, bagels and rubbery-skinned tomatoes that can squish under pressure.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

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For looking your best at holiday parties.

There are essential knives, such as a chef’s knife or a santoku knife and a paring knife, and there are specialty knives you can add depending on your cooking style. If you buy a lot of whole fish, consider a boning knife. If you’re a salad goddess, a mezzaluna might be your secret weapon. Replacing dull or inferior knives is always a good idea – it’s just safer that way – but you don’t need to drop hundreds of dollars all at once, and never feel pressured into purchasing an entire set. Make a list of which knives you use, most to least, and buy them in that order. Do your research and be aware of look, feel and balance before making your final decision.

Utility Knife Available in straight and serrated styles, it’s

fillet knife Fillets fish and meat with ease.

a medium-size knife

Paring Knife

for medium-size jobs – think all-purpose work

Perfect for cutting small stuff in your hand, as well as

that’s too small for

peeling and coring fruits and vegetables, it also makes

your chef’s knife.

quick work of seeding peppers and vanilla beans, deveining shrimp, mincing garlic and chopping herbs.

Chef’s Knife Used for everything,

cleaver

from slicing and dicing

Makes light work

vegetables and fruits to

of bones and joints

chopping nuts to cutting

and breaks down

through small meat joints

larger produce

without the dramatic flair

such as melons,

of a cleaver. If you need it

squash and heads

done, chances are a chef’s

of cabbage.

knife can handle the job.

mezzaluna While chopping leafy greens and herbs, its rocking motion gently works through the tender ingredients without bruising them.

/ ma r c h 2 02 0

39

THE DISH / THE MIX / 3 ways / HEALTHY APPETITE / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

the Strips

the cubes Paring knives don’t get the credit they deserve, but they’re ideal for smaller detail work. Keep several good ones on hand; they’re very affordable, and they function as tiny workhorses for a variety of kitchen tasks. illustrations by kim cho

b

Large Dice: ¾-inch cubes Batonnet (starting point for small dice): ¼ inch x ¼ inch and 2 to 2½ inches long

You’ve found a great new dish that sounds delicious, but as you start to read the

Medium Dice: ½-inch cubes

recipe, whoa! Julienne?

Chiffonade? Brunoise?

There are knife cuts out there that some of us

To peel round fruits, grip your paring knife with all four fingers wrapped comfortably around the base – your fingertips should wrap around the bottom while the top rests where your fingers meet your palm.

Hold what you’re peeling in your nondominant hand and angle the blade toward you.

Rest your dominant thumb on the food for stability and begin to apply pressure with your dominant hand to peel skin away from food. As you work, use your nondominant hand to rotate the item in the opposite direction.

home cooks have never heard of, much less mastered. Before you get flustered, know this:

Julienne | Allumette (starting point for brunoise): ¹⁄₈ inch x ¹⁄₈ inch and 1 to 2 inches long

Mincing Garlic

Small Dice: ¼-inch cubes

Knife cuts and sizes are methodical and easy to decode once you understand how they all work together. There are only two main types you need to know: strips and Brunoise: ¹⁄₈-inch cubes

cubes – the former often acting as the jumpingoff point to achieve the latter. While there are other specialty cuts,

Fine Julienne (starting point for fine brunoise): ¹⁄₁₆ inch x ¹⁄₁₆ inch and 1 to 2 inches long

b

you’re unlikely to come across a recipe that Fine Brunoise: ¹⁄₁₆-inch cubes

requires you to pont neuf a potato or lozenge carrots.

If you do, Google it.

Chiffonade sounds fancy, but it’s simply a way to slice flat leaves – from fresh basil to sage – into thin ribbons. Learn the technique at feastmagazine.com.

40

Chiffonade (fine ribbons for leafy herbs): aim for ¹⁄₈-inch thick, with length determined by the leaf itself

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 2 0

Minced: a smaller version of fine brunoise, but not an exact “cube” due to size

Perhaps the best use of a paring knife is to dig unwanted pits and parts out of small items. Start by holding the knife as you would to mince garlic, and place the food against your cutting board for stability. For cherries, use the knife tip to make a circular cut at the top of the fruit, then angle the tip in and pop the pit out. For lemon and other seeds, use the knife tip to “dig” out unwanted seeds. To devein shrimp, make a shallow slice down the middle of its back, deep enough to get to the black vein; use the knife tip to loosen the vein and scrape it out.

Peeling Fruit

B

Mincing can – and should – be done with a chef’s knife, but for small tasks such as mincing garlic, using a paring knife works just as well. Peel garlic and lay it on a cutting board, flattest side down. Wrap your middle, ring and pinkie fingers around the base of your paring knife and position your thumb on the opposite side of the base to secure it to your palm.

Place your index finger on top of the blade to guide and apply pressure as you slice. Secure garlic with your nondominant hand and use knife to slice strips into garlic from tip to tail, then adjust angle and mince into ¹⁄₁₆-inch cubes.

Removing Seeds, Pits and Veins

Never a Dull Moment You wouldn’t buy a new car and never get the oil changed, so don’t buy a good knife and never sharpen it. A little proactive maintenance goes a long way in keeping your knives safe, sharp and ready for action.

DON’T! Bang it around. If you’re chopping in the correct manner, you’re keeping the blade of your knife on the work surface and using either a front-toback rocking motion (for rounded knives such as a chef’s knife) or a straight up-and-down motion (for straight-edge knives such as a santoku knife). Constantly thwapping your knife against the work surface at crazy angles will damage it over time.

Think of it like working out: Proper form keeps your joints protected, but too much impact (or the wrong type) means at some point you’ll be hurting.

Be lazy. No matter what the manufacturer says, it is not OK to put your knives in the dishwasher. The heat and chemicals in there can warp and damage them to the point of no return.

Don’t soak them either! Wash them by hand with mild soap. Once clean, dry them thoroughly before storing them.

Strop It!

DO! Hone (frequently). Don’t confuse honing with sharpening. A standard honing steel – basically a rod of steel – has ridges along its length that gently guide a blade back into alignment as you draw the knife over it. To hone a knife, hold the handle of the steel and plant the tip into a cutting board. Place the heel of the knife against the top of the steel at a 15- to 20-degree angle.

Applying light pressure, draw the knife down the steel, using the full length of the steel and pulling across the full length of the knife, while maintaining a constant angle. Follow the same steps for the other side of the blade. To keep your knives in tip-top shape, get into the habit of honing them every day before you begin prepping dinner.

Sharpen (annually or semi-annually).

Knives lose their edge gradually, so it’s easy to get used to them not being as sharp as they should be. But dull knives slide all over the place, making some tasks impossible and potentially doing serious damage to your fingers.

If chopping becomes a chore, it’s time to sharpen your knives. Buy a hand-held sharpener for your home, or watch for sharpening services to pop up at grocery and hardware stores – typically in the fall, prior to the start of the holiday season, and in the spring, before grass cutting commences (because lawnmower blades need love too).

tIt’s time to use your new knife skills.

If you don’t remember the sizes of each cut, refer to the specs on p. 40. Done right, this recipe will yield a vibrant spring salad with all sorts of shapes to sink your teeth into.

The assortment of pickled vegetables and balanced spices and herbs hits all the right flavor notes, and it’s absolutely gorgeous perched atop a nest of fresh greens.

Pickled Spring Vegetable Salad Provide a safe home. Store your knives in their boxes or plastic sheaths, stick them to a magnetic wall strip or keep them in a fabric knife wrap. I don’t recommend wood knife blocks because most store the knives vertically, with the weight on the sharp side of the blade, putting unnecessary wear on them and dulling them quicker.

If knives are your thing, consider buying a leather strop.

Stropping removes the last imperfections of the cut, with even greater sharpness as a result. It’s also aesthetically pleasing: Stropping removes any excess metal and polishes and smooths the blade until it shines like a mirror.

serves 4 2 6 2 3 2 ¼ 2 1 1 1 2½ 1½ ½ 4 ¼

¾ ¹⁄₃

32-oz wide-mouth canning jars oz haricot vert watermelon radishes, sliced tip to tail in ¹⁄₈-inch slices medium carrots, julienned small golden beets, scrubbed and medium dice cup fresh dill fronds, plus more for garnish cloves garlic, peeled and smashed medium Fresno chile, brunoised Tbsp mustard seeds tsp black peppercorns cups white wine vinegar cups water cup granulated sugar oz spring greens cup olive oil, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup queso fresco, crumbled cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves

/ preparation / Divide haricot vert between jars, standing on end while tipping jars to the side; fill in each jar with equal amounts radish, carrot and beet. Divide dill, garlic and chile over the top, then divide mustard seeds and peppercorns over the top.

In a large saucepan over medium high heat, add vinegar, water and sugar, stirring until sugar has completely dissolved. Once mixture begins to boil, remove from heat and divide liquid evenly between both jars, stirring vegetables gently to mix ingredients. Let stand uncovered on counter until cooled, 30 minutes. Transfer to refrigerator until ready to serve. / to serve / Toss greens in a large bowl with half the olive oil and 2 Tbsp pickling liquid, adding more of either to taste. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange greens on a lipped platter or in a wide bowl.

Strain pickled vegetables from liquid and lay over greens. Top with queso fresco, parsley and more dill if desired; season with salt and pepper and serve. / ma r c h 2 02 0

41

t r y a D ips PROMOTION

1 The elms hotel

Edited by aubrey byron

Excelsior Sprin

gs, Mo.

downtown cape

The Elms Hotel and Spa

S

401 Regent st | elmshotelandspa.com Get ready for Spring Break! Book your room at The Elms Hotel and Spa, just a short drive from Kansas City and surrounding areas. It’s the perfect place for a staycation! Call to reserve your room before it’s too late.

Whether you want to get out on the river or take a road trip to the great towns in our region – endless possibilities await. Here are our favorite destinations for a day or weekend getaway!

Carthage Food Truck Fridays foodtruckfridaycarthage.com From April to September, visit beautiful Carthage, Missouri, for Food Truck Friday with over two dozen great food vendors to choose from! Open 11am to 9pm on the second Friday of the month at Central Park featuring family fun, live music and a beer garden.

Cap e Girardeau, Mo.

Food truck fr

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Hermann Trol

ley

Fugitive Beach 16875 County rd 5285 | fugitive-beach.com The Fugitive Beach is located on a 25-acre Rock Quarry in the Ozarks.

Its stunning blue water is surrounded by overlooking bluffs and a sand beach. Jump off the cliffs, play sand volleyball or just relax at the Beach Bar and Grill.

Fugitive Beach

idays

H ermann, Mo. Hermann Trolley

Cape Girardeau downtowncapegirardeau.com visitcape.com Whether you’re y ou’re digging deep into history, sampling new flavors at local wineries and breweries, taking in the scenery along a wooded trail or strolling through our vibrant downtown, Cape Girardeau is what you’ve been looking for in a weekend getaway!

pring is just around the corner, and it’s a time to explore, learn and experience the great destinations around you! Shake off the cabin fever and grab a map and your sense of adventure.

Carthage, Mo.

hermanntrolley.com The Hermann Trolley will take you in comfort and style to five great wineries in the region while giving insider tips on where to eat, excellent shopping locations and having fun the whole way. Nothing says summer fun like a Hermann Trolley trip!

Rolla, Mo.

PROMOTION

The lakefront

The Marina visitportwashington.com The sun is out, birds are singing – road trip anyone?

Spring is on its way, so hit the road and head into Port Washington. On Lake Michigan, just north of Milwaukee, enjoy a combination of New England charm and Midwestern friendliness.

R O F E K BRA E R U T N E ADV

Port Washington, W

i.

Laumeier Scul

pture park

Laumeier Sculpture Park 12580 rott rd | laumeier.org This one-of-a-kind park in St. Louis, Missouri, allows you to experience fine art outdoors. Experience the exhibits while wandering trails in the woods or have a picnic amongst great sculptures.

This truly unique park is a must-see for daytrippers.

Downtown Effingham

Big Muddy Adventures

visiteffinghamil.com Centrally located where Interstates 57 and 70 meet, Effingham is a hub of activity in Central Illinois! With 17 hotels, over 65 restaurants and countless attractions, there’s something for everyone to enjoy in this bustling community.

Firefly Grill

St. Louis, Mo.

Flavor Tours in Quincy SeeQuincy.com Voted “One of America’s Most Artistic Towns” for two years running by Expedia. com, Quincy’s adoration for the arts and architecture is equaled only by its passion for food. Pave your way through five progressive local eateries via the colorful guided Flavor Tours all summer long.

Effingham, I l.

Kimmswick Visi

tor Center

Flavor Tours

Kimmswick, Mo.

Big Muddy Adventures 2muddy.com Take an adventure on the Mighty Mississippi and experience it like you never have before. Big Muddy Adventures specializes in paddling the great rivers and is ready to take you along to canoe, camp and enjoy gourmet campfire dinners. Book today!

St. Louis, Mo.

Kimmswick

Quincy, I l.

gokimmswick.com Kimmswick makes for the perfect daytrip and peaceful getaway! Enjoy 28 unique shops, quaint restaurants and a charming inn. Special spring and summer events include: Happy Tails Pet Fest, Mother’s Day Weekend, Strawberry Festival and the Father’s Day Car Show. / ma r c h 2 02 0

43

MARCH 18, 2020 ST. LOUIS SCIENCE CENTER

TICKETS NOW ON SALE VISIT: STLTODAY.COM/OUREVENTS TO BUY YOUR TICKET! SPONSORED BY

44

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47 living life on the veg Pirate's Bone Burgers makes plant-based food more accessible and delectable at its Kansas City eatery.

54 hungry for more From chorizo to crab, these plant-based proteins go way beyond beef.

58 a plant on every plate Explore a new way of eating at the Center for Plant-Based Living in Kirkwood, Missouri.

/ ma r c h 2 02 0

45

IT’S IT’S WHAT’S WHAT’S FOR FOR

BREAKFAST!

Inspired Local Food Culture /

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Pirate’s Bone Burgers in Kansas City makes good on its mission to feed more people more plants

Written by Natalie Gallagher \ Photography by Pilsen Photo Co-op / ma r c h 2 02 0

47

floor manager lydia palma behind the counter at pirate's bone burgers

sriracha chix

$4.55

with sriracha-seasoned

"chicken," guacamole, greens and vegan cheese

Two of Lydia Palma’s favorite guests were also two of the most unexpected.

During service, the busy floor manager of Pirate’s Bone Burgers, the plant-based eatery in Kansas City that she opened with Zaid Consuegra Sauza last September, tries to check in with as many diners as she can. One day, she struck up a conversation with a couple of outof-towners, who turned out to be cattle farmers.

“I was shocked,” says Palma. “Most people in that industry are against plant-based eating because they find it threatening to their livelihood … [but] he, especially, was really receptive to it. Bringing that kind of awareness is a huge thing for us.”

The awareness Palma refers to is, in fact, the mission of Pirate’s Bone Burgers. “Feeding more plants to more people” isn’t just the company motto – it’s the business model. It’s why Palma and Sauza chose to open their restaurant in the burgeoning Crossroads Arts District, right on the streetcar line, and why they designed it for volume, with a walk-up counter for ordering and bar-style seating.

In their efforts to make plant-based eating accessible and desirable to a wider audience, nothing on the menu costs more than $5. “We believe that being able to eat plant-based shouldn’t be a luxury or a privilege,” says Palma. “And it’s a little more enticing if you can try something that you’re not sure about and it’s only five bucks.”

“Originally, the $5 idea came from us being dead broke,” adds Sauza. He and Palma were about to sign the lease for a space on Main Street when their primary investor pulled out.

Continuing with their plan meant the pair had to make more personal sacrifices than ever.

“We skipped a lot of meals, or there were days when we would go to Taco Bell and get a onedollar burrito and split it,” says Sauza. “We did that for several months. After that, I wanted to make sure people could afford our food. At Pirate’s Bone, even if you can’t afford a full meal, you can get one thing.”

Indeed, the plant-based burgers – which are slider-sized and served on slate-colored activated charcoal buns – are $4.55 each. A generous basket of plain french fries is $4 and fancy fries – a basket topped with cashew queso, guacamole or plant-based Buffalo sauce – are $4.55; add a vegan burger patty on top of the loaded fries for an additional $4.25. There are also maduros (fried sweet plantains) and tostones (fried green plantains) for $4.55. To satisfy an after-meal sweet tooth, fruit paletas (Mexican ice pops) are available for $2, and beverages – all nonalcoholic – are $3 or less. / ma r c h 2 02 0

49

Consuegra

naturally flavored sodas paletas

$2.00

$2.75

fancy fries

$4.55

topped with cashew queso and a vegan burger patty

(+ $4.25)

chef-owner zaid consuegra sauza in the kitchen at pirate's bone burgers

The model is working: Since its debut, Pirate’s Bone Burgers has experienced a steady stream of hungry customers eager to jump on the plant-based bandwagon.

Iris Green, chef-owner of Kansas City’s first completely gluten-free and vegan bakery, The Littlest Bake Shop, agrees Sauza and Palma have tapped into an effective way of making vegan food more accessible to all. “It’s affordable food that people are familiar with, but their menu allows people to be adventurous, too,” she says. “If you’re not sure about plantbased menus, you’ll stick with their Beyond burger, but [Sauza’s] also got a beet burger and [fancy] fries, and that allows people to explore more plant-based cooking.”

Running a restaurant where everything on the menu is $5 or less brings a unique set of challenges, though. “Because of the [menu’s] low price point, we have to have a high volume of customers,” explains Sauza. “That’s why I created more of a fast-food way of doing our kitchen. We’ve streamlined ingredients and gotten really creative about how we get vegetables out the door and into people’s mouths.”

Sauza has carefully considered which vegetables to work with, how to process them and how to cook them in order to make a profit. He draws inspiration from seasonal produce, and his recipes are straightforward. The aforementioned beet burger is the most popular item, as well as Sauza’s simplest recipe – the patty contains only beets and oats. The black bean burger includes a patty of black beans, carrots and oats topped with grilled jalapeño, guacamole, greens and aïoli, while the Sriracha Chix burger is made from pea protein and wheat and seasoned with nutritional yeast. Pirate’s Bone Burgers also offers a Beyond burger patty; it’s the only menu item that’s not made in-house, marketed toward diners who still want their plants to taste like meat.

However, Sauza believes that if you’re willing to give vegan burgers a try, you should let go of the idea of a hamburger. The burgers here have their own admirable depth and flavor; they don’t need to taste like beef. “Just think of it as food,” he says. “It doesn’t have to be what you think a burger should taste like.”

Palma and Sauza are longtime friends. At Pirate’s Bone Burgers, Palma handles the nittygritty – HR, payroll and taxes – while Sauza does what he does best: makes food with extraordinary flavor. Beyond their mutual goal of spreading the joy of plant-based eating, they are both Latinx and outspoken supporters of immigrant rights. Mexico City-born Sauza, in particular, has made headlines – including a feature profile in Bon Appétit – as an / ma r c h 2 02 0

51

beet burger

$4.55

with aïoli, greens, guacamole and pickled cabbage

“Rarely is anything original – so much is pirated from something else. We’re pirating the idea of burgers.”

-Lydia Palma

undocumented business owner fighting to keep his DACA (Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals) status. Right now, as a DACA recipient, Sauza can legally work in the U.S., which includes starting a business. If the DACA program is terminated, however, or if his status isn’t renewed, his business will be at risk. Entrepreneurship is risky for anyone, but for Sauza, the stakes are especially high – one of the many reasons he’s such a strong advocate for change. In addition to running Pirate’s Bone Burgers, Sauza is part of United We Dream, the largest immigrant youth-led community in the country, and KSMODA, a Kansas City-based immigrant rights coalition, and he’s agreed to be a part of an amicus brief accompanying relevant cases at the Supreme Court. In a video, without any pretense, he shared his story – how an 11-year-old kid from Mexico City grew up as an American and started a business – in the hopes that it will help sway the justices. “‘Home is where the heart is’ – that’s what you always hear in movies and in songs,” he says in the video from 2019. “And home is Kansas City.”

Even the name of their business, Pirate’s Bone – which Sauza originally used as the name for the coffee shop that he founded in the Brookside neighborhood in 2016 – is a nod to the minority ownership. “When it started, I didn’t want to be like any of the others, because I’m not,” explains Sauza. “That’s where the name Pirate’s Bone came from. It sounds different from any other place, and it sticks with you.”

The meaning behind the name has evolved further with Pirate’s Bone Burgers. “Rarely is anything original – so much is pirated from something else,” says Palma. “We’re pirating the idea of burgers.”

With any luck, there will be more pirating in the future. Palma and Sauza have considered taking their concept to other parts of the country, perhaps expanding their menu and incorporating some of Sauza’s other vegan recipes. “We’re thinking about Kansas City as a test market,” says Palma. “We’re in a meat-and-potatoes and barbecue part of the country, and if we can make plant-based work here, where else could we go?”

2000 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, piratesboneburgers.com

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P R O M OT I O N

FRESH INGREDIENTS. AUTHENTIC RECIPES. Hours:

monday-friday: 10:30am - 8:00pm saturday: 11:30am - 7:00pm

11982 dorsett rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com

BY AUBREY BYRON

One of the great charms of Missouri is its unique wine. The Missouri Winery Visitors Program rewards you just for visiting some of Missouri’s best wineries.

Here’s how the program works: Members visit participating wineries like Shawnee Bluff and ask for an MVP ticket.

When they register the code, they receive points for each visit which can be redeemed online for rewards such as cheese boards, coolers and more. It’s as simple as that!

Welcome Spring with a fresh new start!

See what’s new!

Open MARCH 1ST Tue-Sat 10-5 • Sun 12-4 1057 Hwy 79, St. Peters, MO

FEATURED WINERY

More than 100 Missouri wineries participate in the program, including Shawnee Bluff. Its two locations in the heart of the Ozarks – and third opening later this year – feature stunning views, notable wines and rich cuisine. Shawnee Bluff Winery overlooks the Lake of the Ozarks – one of the state’s crown jewels for tourism and summer adventure. Meanwhile, its venue location is known for hosting intimate concerts with some of country music’s biggest stars like Trace Adkins. Both sites participate in the Missouri Winery Visitors Program.

OmasBarnhg • (636) 278-4445 www.omasbarn.com

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

Jack Nolen’s Jack Nolen’s iS Now opeN!

2501 S. 9th St. in Soulard!

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm

Visitors wishing to sample exceptional Missouri wines, enjoy live music or wood-fired pizza with views overlooking the lake, can find it at Shawnee Bluff. Later this year, they will open Riverbird Winery along Brush Creek which will offer yet another haven to sip, relax and collect rewards for MVP members.

To see a full list of participating wineries or learn more about the program, visit MissouriWineMVP.org.

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Written by Nancy stiles illustrations by frank norton

food photography by matt seidel

portsman’s Park in Ladue, Missouri, is a classic

counterparts. Todd emphasizes how important it is that Hungry

neighborhood haunt in spite of its tony zip code.

Planet’s products be chef-developed and -approved.

Originally opened in 1974 as Jackie’s Place by NFL Hall of Famer (and St. Louis Cardinal football player) Jackie

“Take our beef [for example],” says Jody. “It has no saturated fat like

Smith, along with Norman Probstein, it was renamed

conventional meat, [and it] has been crafted by chefs for chefs, to use

Sportsman’s Park in 1980 and today is run by Probstein’s

as a one-to-one substitution in any recipe, any cuisine, anywhere in the

son, Jim. On any given afternoon, it’s buzzy with activity; regulars,

world.” Besides beef, Hungry Planet also offers plant-based chicken,

families and sports fans alike load up on favorites such as toasted

pork, crab, Italian sausage and chorizo.

ravioli and the Sportsman’s burger. Todd Boyman, on the other hand,

ÝMATCH burger

at Sportsman’s Park

orders Hungry Planet’s MATCH burger with lettuce, tomato, onion and

To make plant-based proteins that look and taste like the real deal, the

avocado, barbecue sauce on the side and the famous house curly fries.

Hungry Planet team, with the support of scientists, chemists and chefs, conducted years of research and development before they finalized

“MATCH [Meats] was kind of our early stealth brand – used during

their formula. More than 15 years ago, they entered the vegetarian space

our testing phase,” says Todd. The plant-based meat company that he

in St. Louis as MATCH Meats. Through food service channels, MATCH

began developing in 2004 with his sister, Jody Boyman, will officially

slowly infiltrated the menus of local restaurants – Todd explains that

relaunch this quarter as Hungry Planet. “If you really want to make a

once they got owners and chefs to try their products, they were able to

difference, you’ve got to give people what they love to eat, but figure out

convince more and more to put them in their dishes.

how to do it from plants,” continues Todd. That was the siblings’ vision almost two decades ago: to find creative, sustainable ways to feed the rapidly growing population, while simultaneously producing products from plantbased ingredients that match traditional meat textures, flavors and applications. And not much has changed.

Jody, who currently heads up sales and marketing from the West Coast, went plant-based around age 12 because of her love for animals – she learned the health and environmental benefits much later. “I would describe myself as kind of a militant [vegan] when I was younger,” says Jody with a laugh. “Now I’m about all-comers – I’m going to build a bigger tent for everybody. I’m all for flexitarians – leaning plant-based once a month, once a week, once a day.”

In 2018, the New York Post reported that “one in three Americans now consider themselves a ‘flexitarian.’” That’s a huge wave of people who want to eat differently, and Hungry Planet is along for the ride.

Todd, a staunch omnivore for years before committing to an entirely plant-based diet, understands how important it is to develop foods that meet the demanding tastes of meat-lovers and culinary professionals in addition to appealing to vegans and vegetarians who choose to exclude meat from their diet for environmental and animal welfare-related reasons. He says the key to Hungry Planet is that it offers a one-to-one swap in PICTURED right: Todd and Jody Boyman, co-founders of Hungry Planet

recipes that use meat; its plant-based meat alternatives look, feel, behave and taste like their animal-based / ma r c h 2 02 0

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Plant-Based Proteins from hungry planet

According to Forbes, plant-based retail is a $4.63 billion industry in the U.S. alone. The Impossible Burger is available at the biggest fast-food chains in the country, and this year, the Golden Globes served an entirely plant-based meal at its awards ceremony. Consumers are leading a prominent shift in culinary norms, and large-scale meat producers have taken notice. In fact, Richard Berman, notorious lobbyist

Þcali burrito

of Thank You For Smoking fame and executive director of the Center for Consumer Freedom, has been hired to argue that plant-based meat

at mission taco joint

alternatives are highly processed and beef is better for you.

Todd isn’t worried. “The louder the detractors, the stronger the indication you’re doing something right,” he says.

Environmental impact is also a factor in the expansion of plant-based eating. “To make a conventional patty, it takes 400 to 600 gallons of water,” says Todd. “When you look at the overall footprint, [our burgers] require about 90 percent less land, about 95 percent less water and [the production process] emits about 95 percent less carbon into the atmosphere. Even if people don’t care about carbon emissions, objectively speaking, wouldn’t it be better for the planet and the population if we could use 90 percent less land?”

Of course, none of this matters if people don’t actually want to eat Hungry Planet “meats.”

“We set out to be a global brand right from the beginning,” says Jody,

“I’ve always offered vegetarian and plant-based options on my menus,”

and she and Todd knew that in order to truly excite and delight

he continues. “As a chef, I think it’s more important than a current

consumers in an international market they had to go beyond “garden

‘trend,’ and if this wave fades away, I will still be serving them. When

burgers,” and even a beef facsimile. The siblings grew up in St. Louis,

done right, it’s a healthier option than meat, and it’s a fun challenge to

but they have both lived and worked in many places, witnessing

get creative with plant-based ingredients.”

firsthand the worldwide demand for a more diverse selection of plant-based products.

In addition to Mission Taco Joint, St. Louis’ Utah Station, which specializes in vegan riffs on junk food, and Don Emiliano’s in O’Fallon,

“Beef is not the most consumed meat on the planet – pork is,” says

Missouri, serve Hungry Planet products.

Todd. “After pork, it’s chicken and then beef. While each has a different environmental impact and footprint … , if you want to solve this thing

“I love it when we get into steakhouses,” says Jody. “That’s where I think

globally, you have to look at all the different types of animal proteins.

we should be. I can’t tell you how sick I am of having to order a baked

That was the vision that we had from day one. It was beef, chicken,

potato and go to the salad bar in places like that. There’s nothing else

pork, crab. I mean, the problems that our oceans are facing are just as

to eat.” Now, in select steakhouses, she can have a Hungry Planet

existential as those on [land].”

burger and fries and fit right in. When she’s there, she also tries to talk a couple people into trying it: “They’re like, damn, that's so good,” she

In an effort to give people even more options – and therefore increase

says with a smile.

the likelihood that they will choose to eat plant-based that much more often – Todd and Jody decided to expand their product line to include

Hungry Planet’s retail line for home cooks is available under the

Italian sausage and chorizo. Chefs and home cooks alike can use them

MATCH Meats moniker at Dierbergs Markets and occasionally Local

like they normally would: for meatballs, stuffed peppers, pizza, pasta –

Harvest Grocery in the St. Louis area, and starting this month, its

you name it. Hungry Planet is currently developing plant-based turkey,

new grab-and-go meals will also be available in the deli section of

lamb, duck, tuna and breakfast sausage as well.

Dierbergs Markets. But Todd and Jody had one of their biggest wins farther afield: For the past year, Hungry Planet plant-based proteins

Here at home, Mission Taco Joint uses Hungry Planet’s plant-based

have been served throughout the Santa Barbara Unified School

beef in both its soft taco and Cali Burrito. Jason Tilford, co-owner of the

District. With the help of the district’s food director, Nancy Weiss,

beloved spot for street tacos – which now has five locations in the St.

Hungry Planet products made it into half of the approximately two

Louis area and two in the Kansas City area – started using the Boymans’

million meals served during the school year. And though schoolchildren

product in 2005 at his now-shuttered Clayton, Missouri, restaurant

are notoriously picky, many of them didn’t realize, or just didn’t care,

Barrister’s. “I used it in patty form for a veggie burger,” explains Tilford.

that they weren’t eating real meat.

“We had experimented with different options but landed on Hungry Planet because of its superior quality. We also like to support local when

“Whether it’s at a steakhouse or in a public school,” says Todd,

possible, and this was a great opportunity. I remember how much people

“if it’s good food, it’s just good food.”

loved that burger – and sometimes sent it back because they thought it was meat.

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hungryplanet.us

now available in saint louis!

To find out where, visit us at www.switchgrassspirits.com Facebook/Instagram: @switchgrassspirits

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Photography by Judd Demaline

Written by Emily Wasserman

Caryn Dugan shares inspiration and information about plant-based living at her center in Kirkwood, Missouri

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T

PICTURED ABOVE: Caryn Dugan teaches a cooking

aco Tuesday

class at the Center for Plant-Based Living at the Center for Plant-Based Living in Kirkwood,

Missouri, started innocently enough. Five strangers and I gathered for a cooking class led by the center’s founder, Caryn Dugan, and were tasked with making three types of vegan tacos: Asian-inspired lentil tacos, barbecue mushroom tacos and crispy avocado tacos with Sriracha-ranch drizzle.

As Dugan reviewed the recipes, she explained that we would not be cooking anything in oil.

These three radical recipes make plant-based cooking fun � easy.

We exchanged covert looks until Tracey Cain, a certified functional medicine practitioner, spoke up. “Why can’t we use oil?” she asked.

“When you don’t use oil, you can taste the food,” responded Dugan. She went on to explain that most cooking oil is heavily processed and overused, adding unnecessary calories to dishes that don’t need them. Instead, she recommends dry sautéing, or using water or broth to cook vegetables. She promised to demonstrate for us later on.

Breaking into teams of two, we each took a different taco recipe. I consider myself a good cook; still, I was a little nervous to work in an unfamiliar space. But Dugan’s cook-friendly kitchen assuaged some of my nerves: It’s equipped with every tool imaginable, including a ¹⁄₈ measuring spoon – I didn’t even know they made them that small!

Cain and I concentrated on the barbecue mushroom tacos. To make the sauce, we added chopped red onion, garlic, chipotles in adobo sauce, lime juice and spices such as cumin, oregano and cloves to a blender. After the sauce was well blended, I set a large sauté pan over medium high heat, added the mushrooms and sauce and, once the mixture began to simmer, covered it. I had never cooked vegetables this way, but the process was very straightforward –

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Hemp Heart Ranch Dugan used to put ranch dressing on anything and everything until she committed to a plant-based diet. Now, with hemp hearts – raw, hulled hemp seeds – and a little creativity, she’s developed a vegan version – and wouldn’t you know it, she still eats it by the spoonful.

yields 1 cup ¾ 1 1 2

¼ ½ 1

cup hemp hearts large clove garlic Tbsp nutritional yeast flakes Tbsp tahini juice of ½ lemon tsp sea salt cup water tsp fresh dill (or ½ tsp dried dill)

/ preparation / In a blender, add hemp hearts, garlic, nutritional yeast, tahini, lemon juice and salt. Begin to blend slowly and drizzle in water. Once all water has been added, blend on high until creamy. Add dill and pulse 2 or 3 times. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to one week.

from Caryn Dugan

it’s freeing to be able to leave them to simmer while you prep something else. As the mushrooms cooked, everyone commented on the aroma drifting from our side of the kitchen.

The team working on the Asian-inspired lentil tacos was learning how to peel fresh ginger by scraping the back of a spoon across the surface of the rhizome, while a married couple tossed chunks of avocado in a flour-water mixture before coating them with breadcrumbs for the crispy avocado tacos. They baked half the avocado in the oven and put the other half in an air fryer – we unanimously agreed that the air-fried version was better.

Eat the rainbow: Make sure every plate is full of color.

Before finishing our dishes, Dugan demonstrated a dry sauté. She placed a large pan over high heat and added a little water to test it. Once the water rolled around like little balls of mercury – an indication of even cooking temperature – she added onion for the lentil tacos and then

Avoid packaged and processed foods when possible.

Take a B12 supplement.

Ease into a plant-based diet by aiming for 20 grams of fiber a day for one week, 30 grams a day the next week and 40 grams a day by week three. Maintain 40 grams of fiber (or more) a day from then on.

Aim for progress, not perfection.

mushrooms, explaining that their high water content would allow them to cook without oil. She explained that a good quality, wide pan with a heavy bottom achieves the best results because it evenly distributes the heat, creating more uniformly browned vegetables. It’s also important to chop the vegetables into equal sizes so they all cook at the same rate.

Once everything was finished, we gathered around a communal table to savor our hard work.

Between bites we discussed why we had come to class that night. I assumed that some of the attendees would be new to vegan cooking, but it turned out that all my classmates were settled into their plant-based ways. One woman cooks vegan meals for herself because her husband still eats meat. Cain spent almost 18 years as a vegetarian, but she recently converted to a plant-based diet with very few animal products – she says she just feels better eating that way.

And the married couple became vegan when the man experienced health issues that he believed veganism would quell.

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Although we all have different backgrounds, and perhaps our own ideas about plant-based living, we were able to come together over tacos. I left the class feeling light – even though I put away at least five air-fried avocado tacos. I was also more knowledgeable about plant-based eating – which, up until now, I thought was more about ingredients than technique – and that’s exactly what Dugan intended.

A

These party appetizers will attract due attention, and once your guests pop one in their mouth, they’ll likely become wide-eyed with delight – take Dugan’s word for it. serves 3

traumatic turn of events set Dugan on a path toward plant-based living. In 2008, her father passed away from prostate cancer, and 10 weeks later, she herself was diagnosed with malignant melanoma. It was the one-two punch Dugan needed to make a big lifestyle change, and fast.

As Dugan started researching ways to boost her immune system in order to fight the cancer, she stumbled across plant-based solutions more than once. Dugan, a St. Louis native who grew up eating Velveeta cheese and Campbell’s soup, was skeptical that a plant-based diet could make her that much healthier. “Living in the middle of the country and not being exposed to anything different than what I grew up with, I thought, ‘I’m not doing a vegan diet, no way. Those people are crazy,’” says Dugan. “I don’t mean any disrespect; I was very sheltered.” Then she read about the science supporting the idea that a plant-based diet can boost your immune system. According to the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine, a Washington, D.C.-based nonprofit that focuses on fighting chronic illnesses with nutrition, “one in three cancer cases are a result of lifestyle choices. A plant-based diet is a powerful way to reduce the risk. And for people who have been diagnosed with cancer, it is an important way to improve survival.”

At the time, Dugan was working at a medical practice, so she enlisted the doctors there to help her read more studies, further exposing the truth that plant-based living could save her life. “In one fell swoop, to check off a box, I decided to go vegan,” she says. First, she threw out everything in her kitchen and went shopping, but her foray into plant-based cooking was, initially, far from a success. When she presented her husband with one of her first home-cooked plant-based meals, he simply looked up at her with puppy dog eyes.

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Bacon"-Wrapped Water Chestnuts

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“Bacon” 2 Tbsp coconut aminos (tamari and soy sauce also work) 1¼ Tbsp maple syrup 2¼ tsp liquid smoke 2 tsp paprika salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 portabella mushrooms, stems removed and sliced into ¹⁄₈-inch strips “Bacon”-Wrapped Water Chestnuts 1 Tbsp coconut aminos 1 Tbsp maple syrup 1 tsp tomato paste 1 8-oz can whole water chestnuts “bacon” strips (recipe follows) / preparation – “bacon” / Preheat oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, combine aminos, maple syrup, liquid smoke, paprika and salt and pepper. Add mixture to a zip-close freezer bag and then add mushrooms; seal bag and gently massage mushrooms. Allow to marinate for 30 minutes.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lay out mushrooms in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes. You want them to brown but not char, and they should be pliable enough to wrap around the water chestnuts even after they’ve cooled. / preparation – “bacon”-wrapped water chestnuts / In a small bowl, combine aminos, maple syrup and tomato paste. Add water chestnuts and allow to marinate for 30 minutes.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove 1 water chestnut from the marinade and wrap 2 to 3 pieces of “bacon” around it; secure with a toothpick and place on baking sheet.

Repeat with remaining water chestnuts. Bake for 10 minutes and then brush “bacon”-wrapped water chestnuts with remaining marinade. Bake for another 12 minutes. Serve hot.

PICTURED above: Crispy avocado with Sriracha-ranch drizzle

“I said, ‘What? Say it,’ and he said, ‘You’re going to kill us both with this food.’ I ugly cried until I was laughing,” says Dugan. “The food was horrible.”

That moment proved pivotal; Dugan enrolled in a plant-based cooking class at Whole Foods Market in Brentwood, Missouri, in hopes of learning a recipe or two that would make dinner at home more bearable. Bridgette Kossor, a local expert in holistic living, led the class, and Dugan soon became her assistant. When Kossor relocated, Dugan created her own series of plantbased cooking classes at Whole Foods Market – and so her business STL Veg Girl was born.

Through STL Veg Girl, Dugan offered cooking instruction, personal chef services, meal delivery and collaborative restaurant events – each day working toward her ultimate goal: “a plant on every plate.”

Switching to a plant-based diet is one of the most healthful actions you can take, but it carries the very serious risk of vitamin B12 deficiency. Although plant-based diets are chock-full of other vitamins and minerals, they are generally devoid of vitamin B12, or cobalamin, which is naturally found in animal source foods and bacteria. Vitamin B12 deficiency can cause anemia, nerve damage, neurocognitive changes and, over time, paralysis; fortunately, it can also be easily prevented. Fortified foods such as cereals, soy milk and nutritional yeast all contain vitamin B12, but the simplest and most reliable way to ensure you get an adequate amount is to take an oral supplement. The usual dose is 250 micrograms a day, or 2,500 micrograms a week; however, if you are unsure if you’re getting enough or too much, see your doctor to have your levels checked.

Diving deeper into plant-based living, Dugan attended a food-for-life program at the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine in 2011. Days after she returned home, the then executive director of the Cancer Support Community of Greater St. Louis, Charli Prather, asked her to teach introductory courses about plant-based cancer prevention. “[Prather] gave me a blank calendar and said, ‘I want you to teach as many classes as you can,’” says Dugan. “It was a fullcircle moment. It was amazing; it was a gift. That’s when I started to take this really seriously.”

STL Veg Girl was on an upward trajectory. In remission at this point, Dugan also started teaching plant-based classes at Dierbergs Markets – where she still teaches today – and tried her hand as a personal chef, all the while saving up to open a center where people could learn more about her lifestyle. She came across some skeptics: people who tried to discourage her from opening a brick-and-mortar location, cautioning her about overhead costs and a lack of precedent. But she remained committed to her vision, believing that she could do the most good in a physical space where the community could gather, learn and grow.

On August 13, 2019 – the 11-year anniversary of her father’s death – Dugan fulfilled her longtime dream and opened the Center for Plant-Based Living, the first of its kind in the country. At the center, Dugan, executive medical director Dr. Jim Loomis and other collaborators offer programs to educate people on plant-based living, how to seamlessly incorporate it into their lives and how the approach can help fight cancer and chronic illnesses such as type 2 diabetes.

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PICTURED TOP RIGHT: Asian-inspired lentil tacos with broccoli

and barbecue mushroom tacos with red cabbage

One program, Forks Over Knives, spans six weeks and gives participants the knowledge and tools they need to lead a plant-based life. With the help of Dr. Loomis, Dugan answers questions about the positive effects of plant-based eating on the body and provides information about everything from nutrition to navigating the grocery store. How Foods Fight Diabetes and How Foods Fight Cancer are two other classes at the center, which encourage people to eat well to feel well. The introductory classes include cooking demonstrations and nutrition lessons, and attendees leave

Lobster" Roll with Creamy Tofu Mayo Who says a lobster roll has to have…lobster? Experimenting with hearts of palm and a housemade tofu mayonnaise, Dugan created a vegan take on this traditional comfort food.

with myriad recipe ideas to immediately implement healthy eating habits at home. yields 4 rolls

“People want to know the why,” explains Dugan. “Unless you know why you’re doing something, there’s not a big motivator. … Come in and learn. That’s why I offer the programs.”

Dugan also teaches plant-based, hands-on cooking classes at the center, in which she discusses the common concerns with converting to an entirely plant-based lifestyle. In the past, classes have covered delicious, interactive themes such as breakfast for dinner, savory shareables and Super Bowl favorites. Boasting a menu of Buffalo cauliflower with creamy vegan ranch, crispy spinach and artichoke dip spring rolls and Southwest sliders with chipotle hummus, the latter showed just how fun – and flavorful – it can be to transform notoriously indulgent and unhealthy snacks into nutritious plant-based meals. This month, the center will offer compelling classes featuring Mediterranean and Thai cuisine as well as an introduction to tempeh.

Eventually, Dugan hopes to open more centers for plant-based living throughout the U.S., but for now, she’s refining her template for the center in Kirkwood. “I’m trying to be the person or the resource that I so desperately wanted back in 2008,” says Dugan. “That’s what I aim for every single day … When one person randomly walks in off the sidewalk, I want them to think, ‘Thank God I came in here.’ I’m always trying to further my education to do what I can to help people.”

131 W. Jefferson Ave., Kirkwood, Missouri, cpbl-stl.com

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Creamy Tofu Mayo (Yields ¾ cup) 1 12-oz package lite, firm silken tofu 1½ Tbsp raw cashews

juice of ½ medium lemon 1 tsp date syrup (or other liquid sweetener) ¾ tsp mustard powder 1 pinch sea salt ½ pinch black salt “Lobster” Roll with Creamy Tofu Mayo 2 14-oz cans hearts of palm, drained, roughly chopped and slightly mashed 1½ Tbsp Old Bay Seasoning ½ cup creamy tofu mayo (recipe follows) ¼ small red onion, minced 3 celery sticks, roughly chopped ½ bunch fresh Italian parsley, leaves only, plus more for garnish 4 whole-grain hot dog buns / preparation – creamy tofu mayo / In a blender, add all ingredients and blend on high until creamy. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to one week. / preparation – “lobster” roll with creamy tofu mayo / In a bowl, combine hearts of palm and Old Bay Seasoning. Mix in mayo, red onion, celery and parsley. Evenly distribute mixture between hot dog buns. Garnish with parsley and serve.

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Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros:

What’s your favorite vegan dish, and where are you ordering it?

Ben Hamrah

chef and co-owner Beet Box and Peachtree Catering Columbia, Missouri

photography by aaron ottis

“Not too long ago, my little sister – who is a vegan – was in town, and we went to Cherry Street Cellar. They made a cauliflower steak that they have on the menu with a slightly different setup so that it was all vegan, and it was ridiculous.”

Michelle Allender co-owner

Rob Connoley chef-owner

Nick Mader owner and head brewer

Vance Hall owner

Sheila Korte owner

Cork Wine Bar

Bulrush

Alma Mader Brewing

Druff’s

Holy Crepe!

Ferguson, Missouri

st. louis

Kansas City

Springfield, Missouri

st. louis

“I love the falafel fries at Layla.

“There is nothing better than

“I do not follow a vegan diet,

“I love the sweet potato noodle

“My absolute favorite vegan

They are so flavorful and hearty –

William Pauley's tempeh dish at

but I thoroughly enjoy Pirate's

stir-fry at Cafe Cusco. The [sweet

sandwich is from Banh Mi So 1.

[and] as a non-vegan, I do enjoy the

Confluence Kombucha. Not only

Bone [Burgers]. Its beet burger

potato] glass noodles are cooked

I get the bánh mì chay: It’s

dill tzatziki that comes with them.

is it the best vegan dish I've had

with a side of papas enchiladas

to perfection and all the good

tofu and jÍcama topped with

They are even delicious reheated.”

in St. Louis, it’s the best thing I've

and maduros is my go-to. With a

veggies in the dish are delicious –

carrot-daikon relish, cilantro

eaten in St. Louis, period. [Pauley]

plethora of burger options in town,

plus it’s always fun to take a stroll

and jalapeño – all fresh – inside

created the perfect combination of

I think Pirate’s Bone stands out

down C-Street.”

crunchy French bread. So

textures and flavors and inspired

as one of the most unique, and

delicious, and even better with

me to dig deeper with my own

I love the Latin twist and bright,

the mung bean spring rolls.”

vegan and vegetarian cooking.”

airy atmosphere.”

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