October 2021 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

midwest

october 2021

Rediscover this regional cuisine with foraging tips, a fishing guide and modern takes on traditional recipes.

Choose your Brews!

Get a taste of the Ozarks this fall.

Whether it’s caffeine or craft beer, Springﬁeld, Missouri is home to some of the most delicious locally-made brews you’ve ever tasted. Take yourself on a tour of some of the best in the Ozarks and earn yourself a commemorative prize! No downloading an app required! All you have to do is sign up for the pass of your choice (we recommend both...one for the morning, one for the evening), check-in at the participating locations, complete the tour and redeem your prize! More information on each tour and terms and conditions can be found by scanning the QR codes below or visit SpringﬁeldMo.org.

Point your smartphone camera at this QR code to ﬁnd out more about Ozarks Coffee Trail

SpringfieldMo.org

Point your smartphone camera at this QR code to ﬁnd out more about Ozarks Tap and Pour

Why Pork? Did you know that eating 20-30g of protein per meal may help you feel fuller and more satisfied?1 Pork is packed with protein and the essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals you need. For example, every 3 oz. serving of pork tenderloin provides 22g of protein.2

@MissouriPork

1 2

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25926512/ U.S. Department of Agriculture Nutrient Database Release 18, 2006 Revised USDA Nutrient Data Set for Fresh Pork

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/ 15 / midwest made Wild Game Snack Sticks

/ 16 / hot blocks

Farmers Market of the Ozarks

/ 18 / the mix Elderberry Gin Fizz

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Marcus Monroe of Manitou Farm

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healthy appetite

Leather Britches

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Kevin Korman of Finley Farms

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/ 28 / after the hunt Wild Game Processors

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hidden in the hollers

foray into foraging

recorder of seeds

Dig into Ozarks cuisine for a new perspective on the region’s history and culture.

Rachael West of Eating the Ozarks takes your taste buds on a tour of the area’s wild edibles.

One St. Louis chef discusses his work with historic heirloom seeds.

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/ 35 / culinary library Bo Brown, Author of Foraging the Ozarks

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october

midwest

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 10 April 12 - May 15, 2022

2021-2022

EDITORIAL

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Editor in chief

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Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

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Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

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November 16-28, 2021 L E T T H E M E M O RY L I V E A G A I N

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Mabel Suen

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Dec. 21, 2021 - Jan. 2, 2022

Jan. 25 - Feb. 6, 2022

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on the cover Bulrush in St. Louis by Judd Demaline table of contents Eating the Ozarks dinner at Forest Garden Yurts in Reeds Spring, Missouri, by Tessa Cooper

editor’s letter

rom Tex-Mex to Louisiana Creole, the U.S. is home to plenty of varied regional cuisines, each with its own distinctive ingredients, cooking techniques and dishes. But one such cuisine I’m willing to bet you’re not quite as familiar with originated right in our own backyards, and it serves as the inspiration for this very issue. If you’ve heard anything about Ozarks cuisine in the past few years, you’re likely familiar with chef Rob Connoley of Bulrush, an elevated Ozarks-inspired restaurant in St. Louis. Bulrush is as much a restaurant as it is a research project – Connoley and his team regularly pore over vintage letters, rare books and journal entries in order to get a more thorough understanding of this often-overlooked cuisine. Their current seed saving project is just one effort that resulted from this research, and on p. 44, Connoley shares how – and why – they’re working with local farmers to revive historic heirloom seeds, many of which had been lost to time. To get a better idea of what constitutes Ozarks cuisine, I called up Erin Rowe – as the author of An Ozark Culinary History, she quite literally wrote the book on it. As we chatted, I was struck by how many of the key principles of Ozarks cuisine have once again come into fashion in

the food world. Living off the land, whether by foraging for mushrooms, fishing for rainbow trout or hunting for wild game, has always been a way of life in the Ozarks. But if you’re wondering to yourself, “What exactly is Ozarks cuisine?” (I know I was ! ), I encourage you to flip to p. 10. Throughout this issue, we share stories of the people and places keeping Ozarks culinary traditions alive, whether through the wild foods education and foraging-focused dinners offered by Rachael West of Eating the Ozarks (p. 41) or the classic fried pies served up at the Farmers Market of the Ozarks (p. 16). We’ve also got plenty of recipes to help you bring Ozarks cuisine into your own kitchen, from classics such as leather britches (p. 20) and vinegar pie (p. 30) to a spin on the Gin Fizz incorporating tart elderberries (p. 18). Ozarks cuisine – and culture in general – is often misunderstood, but I hope this issue helps you appreciate all it has to offer. Until next time,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com / o c to be r 2 02 1

is k rR e

w ri

by Hea t

illus Mich tration s ael Hirs by hon

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Erin Rowe firmly believes that the idea

The rugged terrain of the Ozarks inspired a scrappy,

of pulling yourself up by your own

industrious way of life for early settlers to the

bootstraps was likely inspired by an Ozarks frontiersman. In An Ozark Culinary History, the Arkansas-based chef-turned-author explores the cuisine of the Ozarks, also referred to as High South cuisine. The region primarily consists of southern Missouri and northern Arkansas, but it also stretches across pockets of Oklahoma, Kansas and Illinois. Rowe digs deep into the ingredients, dishes and techniques that define the Ozarks, but she also upends the stereotypes associated with its inhabitants, instead opting to highlight their indomitable spirit and their love of the land.

region. Because farming was much more difficult here than in other parts of the country, Ozark settlers instead turned to hunting and foraging as their primary methods of acquiring food. “A lot of the Ozarks is really not all that great for growing things,” says Dr. Brooks Blevins, the Noel Boyd Professor of Ozarks Studies at Missouri State University. “People still did it – they had to – but the soil is certainly not as fertile as in surrounding areas, and it was always a challenge for farmers to survive on this.” Although those settlers had to travel by mule or by foot instead of by wagon due to the rocky terrain, once they finally arrived, they found nearly everything they’d need to survive: an abundance of wildlife, wild edibles and fresh mountain spring water thanks to the many naturally occurring rivers, lakes and streams in the region. With that in mind, fish and game play a unique role in Ozarks cuisine. Plentiful brown and rainbow trout were commonly fished by Native Americans and, later, early settlers, and continue to be a popular part of Ozarks cuisine today. In addition to more traditional wild game meat such as turkey, hogs and venison, settlers commonly trapped possums, beavers, raccoons and squirrels –

Although Ozarks cuisine shares many qualities with

in fact, the World Championship Squirrel Cook-Off is

American Southern food, the oft-forgotten regional

hosted in Bentonville, Arkansas, each fall.

cuisine is influenced first and foremost by the geography of the region itself – namely the rocky and rugged Ozark Plateau, colloquially referred to as the Ozark Mountains. “What a lot of people don’t understand about the Ozarks is that the mountains make a huge difference,” Rowe says. “Early settlers would often just bypass them and go north through Missouri or down south through Louisiana, avoiding Arkansas altogether. The Cherokee and the Osage tribes had their hunting grounds in the Ozark Mountains because of the amount of wild game and fish there. The people who chose to get there by foot or by mule really had to create their cuisine, which was unique to the rest of the South, and it was dependent upon the fruits and the food that the forest and the river served up. At the end of the day, the Ozarks has been so isolated – almost like a pocket unto itself – from civilization that people had to make do with whatever they could find. They had to forage, they had to hunt, they had to live off the land – there was no other option.”

The Ozarks grew most of the nation’s apples from the 1890s into the 1920s, and this recipe highlights both apples and another favorite fall ingredient: walnuts. “Be sure to not make any substitutions, as often ingredients that grow together in the same area naturally complement each other – just proof that provision and flavor are not mutually exclusive,” Rowe says.

Apple Spice Cake with Broiled Walnut Frosting Serves 12

Recipe courtesy of Wanda Biggs

Apple Spice Cake 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda ¾ tsp salt ¾ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves ½ cup shortening 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed 1 egg 1 cup sweetened applesauce 3 Tbsp vinegar, such as white or apple cider 1 cup seedless raisins Broiled Walnut Frosting 2½ Tbsp butter, melted ½ cup brown sugar, firmly packed 2 Tbsp heavy cream ½ cup chopped walnuts / preparation – apple spice cake / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, sift flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and cloves together. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream shortening until soft and smooth. Gradually add brown sugar; mix until light and fluffy. Add egg; beat until very light. In a separate bowl, combine applesauce and vinegar. Alternating, gradually add dry ingredient mixture and shortening mixture to applesauce-vinegar mixture, stirring in between to incorporate. Stir in raisins. Pour batter into a well-greased 8-by-8-inch pan; bake, 45 minutes. / preparation – broiled walnut frosting / Set a rack 4 inches below broiler and preheat broiler. In a large bowl, using a large wooden spoon, combine all ingredients. Spread mixture on finished cake (cake can be warm). Broil cake until icing is bubbly, 1 to 2 minutes. / o c to be r 2 02 1

Corn was one of the first things Ozarks settlers learned to grow. Historically, the Ozarks didn’t have great soil – simply because the region is so hilly – but corn can grow just about anywhere, and it can be used in many forms. Cornbread is integral to both Southern and High South cuisines, and Rowe says this is absolutely the best she’s had anywhere.

As those settlers learned how to live off the land of the Ozarks, foraging for berries, greens, mushrooms, nuts and honey became a way of life, much like it was for the Native American tribes before them. In the dense forests of the Ozarks, filled with hickory, oak and pine trees, foragers found tart elderberries, sweet persimmons, bold black walnuts, meaty morels and even pokeweed, an herbaceous green that’s poisonous if eaten raw but cooked into classic Southern poke sallet. In that same scrappy spirit, Ozarkians turned to

“What’s our gumbo? What’s our shrimp and

age-old techniques such as canning and pickling

Cracklin’ Cornbread

grits? I don’t think we’ve put [everything that

to preserve fresh fruit through the cold winter

Serves 16

Ozarks cuisine incorporates] into one dish

months. Much like hunters would use every part

because [the cuisine ] has such simple, humble

of the animal in an effort to not let anything go

origins,” McClure says. “I think we’ll get there,

to waste, farmers and foragers made use of

but right now, it’s a real mix of things. At the

excess fruit by turning it into preserves, jams,

same time, I’m not saddled with a dish that I

jellies, marmalades and pickles.

have to cook for the rest of my life. Our guests didn’t travel 1,000 miles to have our étouffée, so they’re not going to be disappointed when it’s not on the menu. There are no parameters; there are no written rules – we’re making up the rules.” The Ozarks region has become a magnet for stereotypes over the past few decades, but the philosophies that define its cuisine have seen renewed interest in the country’s food culture. The back-to-the-land movement dates back as far as the 1930s, but a similar homegrown philosophy is taking root once again as the COVID-19 pandemic continues to illustrate the weaknesses of the modern industrial food system.

“Historically, the Ozarks were settled by subsistence farmers and very simple cooking –

“Especially in the 50s, 60s and 70s, right at the

it was basically a celebration of the ingredients,”

heart of the folk revival, suddenly suburban

says Matt McClure, executive chef of The

people from around the U.S. became

Hive in Bentonville (p. 25). “If you had a bunch

intensely interested in what they considered

of blackberry bushes, you would eat fresh

‘authentic,’” Blevins says. “It’s the same sort of

blackberries and then make blackberry jam or

primitive spirit that drives our interest, even

pickled blackberries so that you could celebrate

in the 21st century, in things like foraging for

the season year-round.”

food and discovering heirloom seeds. And it never completely goes away – it comes back

While specific dishes of the Ozarks might not

in waves every 30 or 40 years, and I think

be as ingrained in our modern cuisine as those

we’re in one of those waves right now. There

of other regional cuisines, such as New England

is this desire to reconnect with a past that

clam chowder or New Orleans po’boys, that

seems more authentic, that’s grittier, that

doesn’t make Ozarks cuisine any less important

connects us with something ancient within us

to U.S. culinary history – or any less delicious.

that we feel we’ve lost in the modern world.”

¼ 2 ½ 1 2 2½ 1

Recipe courtesy of Gail Brewer

cup melted butter cups self-rising cornmeal cup self-rising flour Tbsp sugar eggs, lightly beaten cups buttermilk cup cracklins (fried pork fatback, similar to bacon)

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. In a cast-iron skillet, add butter; heat in preheating oven until bottom and sides of skillet are hot, approximately 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Remove hot skillet from oven; pour in mixture. Return skillet to oven; bake, 25 to 30 minutes or until golden brown (a knife inserted in the middle should come out clean). Remove from oven and immediately invert cornbread onto a plate; cut into squares. Serve piping hot with butter, sweet sorghum or honey.

Sure, you’ve had biscuits and gravy – but what about chocolate gravy? This classic Ozarks breakfast dish features hot high-rising biscuits topped with a rich chocolate gravy.

Biscuits with Chocolate Gravy Serves 8

Recipe courtesy of Randy Brewer

Biscuits 4 cups self-rising flour 2 cups whole milk ¼ cup canola oil Chocolate Gravy ¾ cup sugar ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cocoa powder 1 pinch salt 4 cups whole milk 1 Tbsp butter 1 tsp vanilla extract / preparation – biscuits / Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, mix all ingredients well (be careful not to overwork dough). Transfer dough to a floured work surface; roll out until 1 inch thick. Using a biscuit cutter or the bottom of a drinking glass, gently cut out biscuit rounds. Set biscuit rounds on prepared baking sheet; bake, 15 to 20 minutes. / preparation – chocolate gravy / In a medium bowl, combine sugar, flour, cocoa powder and salt. In a medium saucepan set over low heat, warm milk. Whisk in dry ingredient mixture; cook, whisking, until thick, approximately 5 minutes. Whisk in butter and vanilla. Pour chocolate gravy over hot baked biscuits.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

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SIMPLE SWAPS TO ELEVATE YOUR DINNER ROUTINE We all go through periods of time where we get into a dinner rut. It’s never intentional, but life gets busy and the time and energy dedicated to planning out new innovative meals gets used elsewhere. Like many others, our family has a handful of easy weeknight meals we filter through with occasional tweaks in seasonings or sides, but it mostly remains stagnant.

ROASTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH HALLOUMI AND PLUMS SERVES 4 3 Tbsp olive oil, divided

¼ tsp black pepper

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb pork tenderloin

2 Tbsp chopped fresh oregano,

2 lemons, halved

plus additional for garnish 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

One family favorite that often makes the dinner rounds is my mom’s famous

1 tsp lemon zest

pork tenderloin. Carefully seasoned and grilled to perfection, mom uses just

¼ tsp salt

2 plums, pitted and sliced 4 oz halloumi cheese, drained and cut into ½ inch slices

the right touches for a juicy tenderloin that is always delicious. Typically served with roasted potatoes and veggies on the side, adults and kids alike enjoy the dish. Although this is a tried and true crowd pleaser, after so many similar meals in a row it starts to lose its luster and I crave for a change in the routine. With the seasons changing and summer grilling coming to a close, this is the perfect time to reimagine what to make for dinner. Making changes to meals doesn’t have to take you too far from your comfort zone. Inspired by mom’s dish, this month’s recipe takes a classic pork tenderloin and adds a new combination of textures and flavors, showcasing its versatility. A few small swaps elevate a familiar favorite while still offering a quick meal for a weeknight dinner the whole family will love. Even though mom’s pork tenderloin will always be a favorite, it’s sometimes nice to try something new.

PREPARATION Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a small bowl combine 1 tablespoon olive oil, garlic, oregano, mustard, lemon zest, salt and black pepper. Brush pork with the mixture on all sides and place in a shallow roasting pan with lemons arranged cut side down around it. Roast, uncovered, approximately 25-30 minutes or until the pork registers 145 degrees. Remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat remaining olive oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Pat halloumi slices dry with a paper towel before adding to the pan. Cook 1 to 2 minutes each side, or until golden brown and toasted. Remove and set aside. In the same pan, warm plum slices 1 to 2 minutes each side, or until softened. Slice pork and serve with roasted lemon, sliced plums, and crumbled halloumi. Garnish with fresh oregano and a drizzle of honey or balsamic vinegar.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

wild game

snack sticks Whether packed in your backpack or stashed in your desk drawer, snack sticks serve as the ideal on-the-go eat. These Missouri producers take snack sticks to another level, crafting game meats such as bison, buffalo, elk and venison into a convenient handheld package. Written by Mabel Suen photography by matthew seidel

“Open In Case of Hunger” adorns every label of Burgers’ Smokehouse snack sticks. Based in California, Missouri, the company’s vast product line includes traditional beef and pork “Ozark Recipe” snack sticks as well as wild game snack sticks made with buffalo, elk and venison. Co-owner Philip Burger says the original recipes focus on leaner cuts and subtle seasoning. Burgers’ products are available at grocery stores throughout the state and online at smokehouse.com.

In Camdenton, Missouri, The Butcher Shop boasts a big, beautiful smokehouse that produces some of the best smoked meats in the area. Along with housemade bacon and a plethora of sausages, the buffalo and elk snack sticks are hickory-smoked and vacuumpacked. Order half-pound and one-pound packages at butchershopatthelake.com, or stop by the shop where you can try other ready-toeat specials such as French bread pizza, crawfish pot pie and seven-layer pea salad.

At Woods Smoked Meats, owner Steve Bolton hickorysmokes the wild game snack sticks for 12 to 14 hours. They’re available in buffalo, elk and venison varieties, and the elk and venison can also be crafted with cheese and jalapeño. Occasionally, the shop carries kangaroo snack sticks, as well. If you’re new to kangaroo meat, it’s lean with a rich flavor. See what’s on the shelves at the retail shop in Bowling Green, Missouri, or visit woodssmokedmeats.com.

On its roster of smoked goods, Stonie’s Sausage Shop features shelfstable “quick sticks” in flavors such as barbecue, jalapeño, peppered bacon and teriyaki. For something wilder, look to the line of snack sticks made with bison, elk and venison, which are perfect for your next hiking, hunting or camping trip. Stock up at Stonie’s retail shop in Perryville, Missouri, or online at shopstonies.com.

/ o c to be r 2 02 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

photo by kenyon Gerbrandt

Farmers Market Ozarks A one-stop shop for everything from heirloom vegetables to heritage meats to baked goods, the Farmers Market of the Ozarks welcomes producers and makers from southwest Missouri – or within a 150-mile radius of Springfield, to be exact. These five vendors provide a taste of the Ozarks year-round. Stop by on Tuesdays or Saturdays to experience the unique flavors they have to offer. –Tessa Cooper 16

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Gardener’s Orchard & Bakery Road-trippers traveling between Springfield and Kansas City might be familiar with the billboards for Gardener’s Orchard & Bakery that line Highway 13. The familyowned and -operated farm grows 14 varieties of apples, each with a distinct flavor and texture. Gala apples, for instance, are candy-sweet, juicy and have a great crunch, while Jonathan apples have a tart, crisp flavor that lends itself well to apple pie and caramel apples. When visiting the market stall in October, expect late-season apple varieties, apple cider and from-scratch baked goods such as apple turnovers and apple cider donuts. gardenersorchardandbakery.com

Hemlock Hills Elk Ranch After moving from Wisconsin to the Ozarks in 2019, Hemlock Hills Elk Ranch joined the slew of vendors at the farmers’ market in 2020. It specializes in elk meat products, including teriyaki-flavored elk jerky, hickorysmoked elk summer sausage, bacon-wrapped elk strip loin medallions and elk shoulder steak. For your furry friends, pick up antler dog chews. First-time customers often assume elk tastes like white-tailed deer, but owner Rick Ewert says his products are more like lean, low-fat, high-quality beef products. facebook.com/Hemlock-Hills-Elk-RanchLLC-783684905045827

MO’ Mushrooms At first glance, MO’ Mushrooms’ blue, white and black pearl oyster mushrooms look like flowers instead of fungi, and each presents an intense umami flavor. Typically, lion’s mane mushrooms also make an appearance in the fall, offering a delicate seafood flavor. When cooked, lion’s mane mushrooms can pass for crab or lobster meat without tasting fishy. Besides fresh mushrooms, this small start-up sells dried mushrooms, mushroom powder and mushroom jerky in flavors such as black pepper-garlic and honey-ginger. facebook.com/momushrooms

Providence Farm Rosé veal, heritage chicken, free-range guineafowl – uncommon meats abound at the Providence Farm booth. From October to mid-November and then again from April to early May, it also sells fresh pastured duck, which is available frozen year-round. If everything goes as planned, you will soon be able to get a heaping plate of freshly ground cornmeal and grits, plus fingerling potatoes, at the farmers’ market, as well. providencefarmmo.wordpress.com

Sisters Fried Pies Fried pies have deep roots in Ozarks cuisine, and Sisters Fried Pies does justice to the tradition. A family affair, the bakery makes pies such as blueberry, cherry, peach and strawberry-rhubarb with frozen whole fruits. Year-round favorites include chocolate pie and coconut cream pie, but fall is a particularly special time: pecan pie season. facebook.com/Sisters-Fried-Pies-100120711658752

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midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

Elder

Missouri is the leading producer of elderberries in the U.S.; in fact, the tiny berries grow wild in every county in the state. Packed with antioxidants, they make a bright, acidic juice – think pomegranate meets blackberry or blueberry – but regional farmers also harvest the berries for jams and syrups. The latter acts as a fruity, vitamin-rich addition to any classic sour-style cocktail.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl vaughn

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z Fi z

G y r i r n e b

This re cipe is based on the Ramos Gin Fiz z, a vin tage c o c kt a il that ’s l i g h t and fro t h y.

Elderberry Gin Fizz Serves 1 Elderberry Syrup 1 cup sugar 1 cup elderberry juice Elderberry Gin Fizz 2 oz gin 1 oz elderberry syrup (recipe follows) 1 oz heavy cream ½ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz fresh lime juice 1 large egg white 2 oz soda water orange peel, for aromatics / preparation – elderberry syrup / Add sugar and juice to a blender; blend until combined. Transfer syrup to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to two weeks. / preparation – elderberry gin fizz / Set a 10-ounce Collins glass in the freezer while you mix the cocktail. Add gin, elderberry syrup, heavy cream, lemon juice and lime juice to a shaker tin with ice; shake vigorously, 30 seconds. Strain mixture into half of the shaker; discard ice. Add egg white; shake vigorously, 45 seconds to 1 minute. Pour ingredients into chilled Collins glass and let sit, 1 minute (this will help stabilize the meringue created from the reverse dry shake). Slowly pour soda water into the center of the glass (this will cause the meringue to rise above the top of the glass). Twist orange peel over top. Insert a reusable straw into the center and sip.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

Jamestown, MO

with Marcus Monroe / owner, Manitou Farm What was the catalyst for your agricultural endeavors? I’ve always been a gardener because of the influence of my parents. Then I began growing fruit; the first thing I grew was blackberries. I couldn’t use them all myself, so I started selling them to people at work. At a meeting, I met a fellow who was a member of the Columbia Farmers Market, and he suggested that I come sell blackberries there – which I did. By now, I’ve experimented with almost every kind of fruit out there.

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by ben nickelson

Imagine a sprawling farm with native and non-native edibles thriving together in

It seems like you trend toward growing less common produce. Why is that? I’m always trying to find items to sell at the farmers’ market that are unusual in nature or color. One of the things I sell is okra; most people are familiar with green okra, but there are orange, red, pink and white okras. I like to sell things that other people don’t have – that’s the niche I’ve found in the market – but I also just like to have a colorful selection. At home, we use all of the produce we grow; many times we find the whole meal is food from the garden, which is fun.

garden beds, a high tunnel and a spectacular grove with almost 60 pawpaw and persimmon trees. This is Manitou Farm near Jamestown, Missouri, which embodies the spirit of the Ozarks in more ways than one. Since 2004, Marcus Monroe and his wife, Pam, have shared their harvest with Columbia Farmers Market customers, who flock to the booth for both rare and familiar finds. Available fresh or dried depending on the time of year, some of the best produce includes blackberries, blueberries, figs,

Once people get their hands on your pawpaws and persimmons, how do you suggest they eat them or cook with them at home? Everyone loves to eat them fresh. It’s difficult to describe the flavor of a persimmon, but it’s quite sweet, while I would describe the flavor of a pawpaw as bananamango custard. In both cases, you can make breads and cookies, and there’s a wonderful recipe that I have for pawpaw crème brûlée. I’m not aware of anyone having made persimmon ice cream, but people frequently make pawpaw ice cream.

goumis, jujubes, pawpaws, persimmons and nopales (the paddles of prickly pear cactus); the family also makes jams and jellies from those crops. Monroe has a passion for dried hot peppers, as well, which he likes to grind and sprinkle over gravy, pizza and stir-fries.

Shop for produce from Manitou Farm at the Columbia Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Unprotected, figs don’t grow well in Missouri, but

Uncommon Crops Growing at Manitou Farm

in Monroe’s high tunnel, they thrive. He is one of the only regional producers who sells them fresh, but fig season is short, so if you have a craving in the off-season, try his fig preserves.

Year-round, Monroe offers between 30 and 35 varieties

Dried jujubes, also known as Chinese dates, are

of dried hot peppers. “There are pepperheads all over

often hard and used for cooking. Monroe dries his

the world who are into breeding hot peppers – that’s

selection for a shorter time, which keeps them

where some of the odd names [such as Big Mustard

soft and chewy, and he suggests enjoying the

Mama and Yellow Brain Strain] come from,” he says.

small, sweet, deep-red fruit as a nutritious snack. / o c to be r 2 02 1

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This stew is lovely served over brown rice and finished with a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of flaky salt.

Traditionally, leather britches are green beans that have been snapped, sown into a string using a needle and thread and hung to dry for a few months until they look like leather pants hanging from a clothesline. As the name suggests, leather britches have a leathery texture and pull at the bite, which differs from the tender texture one might expect from fresh green beans. A good comparison is grilled filet mignon versus hanger steak; both have deliciously different textures and flavors. I was able to put a spin on the intriguing Appalachian method with a modern upgrade: my dehydrator. Depending on the dehydrator, the beans take between eight and 12 hours to dry completely. Two pounds of fresh beans turn into two ounces of dried beans, making it a highly efficient way to preserve the bulk of a garden’s harvest. Using leather britches is a lot simpler than the process of preserving them. An overnight soak rehydrates the beans for best use in stews, soups and braising recipes. When I created this recipe, I found the beans offer a pleasant richness, umami and overall deeper flavor – a delightful ending to my travel through culinary history. Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by jennifer silverberg

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Leather Britches & Shiitake Stew Serves 6 to 8 2 2 1 4 2 1 2 1 1 1 1

Tbsp olive oil shallots, small dice lb shiitake mushrooms, sliced cloves garlic, minced tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper oz leather britches (2 lbs dehydrated green beans), soaked overnight, drained and trimmed 14.5-oz can petite dice tomatoes cup vegetable broth tsp dried thyme Tbsp fresh parsley, minced

/ preparation / Heat oil in a Dutch oven or a large pot over medium heat. Add shallots, shiitake mushrooms, garlic, salt and pepper; sauté until lightly caramelized, 1 to 2 minutes. Add beans, tomatoes, vegetable broth and thyme; stir until well combined. Increase heat to medium high and bring liquid to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to low; continue to simmer, partially covered, 2 hours. Add parsley before serving. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

pair with: Chambourcin

PA I R IT!

A stop on the Ozark Mountain Wine Trail, Lindwedel Winery in Branson, Missouri, produces a Chambourcin that pairs perfectly with this dish. Medium-bodied with notes of cherry, the red wine is aged in oak barrels for 14 months, giving it complexity and depth. Its earthiness and soft tannins complement the texture of the leather britches and enhance the umami flavor of the stew. –Hilary Hedges lindwedelwinery.com

/ o c to be r 2 02 1

all fizz, no fuss.

m ad e wi th ab s olut vo dka

absolut. ®

enjoy responsibly

per 12fl.oz. (355ml) serving. average analysis: calories 97; carbohydrates 0 g; protein 0 g; fat 0 g absolut ® vodka specialties, product of canada. 5%-10% alc./vol. ©2020 imported by absolut spirits co. new york, ny. 21764f44305108

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feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

OZARK, MO

with Kevin Korman / executive chef, Finley Farms ozarks-inspired dishes

at The Ozark Mill

chicken and dumplins

Considered humble comfort food today, chicken and dumplings was a luxurious dish in the late 1800s, according to Korman. He makes the dumplings with cornmeal to honor the original purpose of the mill.

Written by Tessa Cooper / photography by brandon alms

Nestled on the bank of the beautiful Finley River, Finley Farms in Ozark, Missouri, is a setting fit for a folktale. Johnny Morris, founder of Bass Pro Shops, originally purchased the last commercially operating watermill in the state, plus the surrounding land, in the hopes of preserving the 1830s structure and opening it to the public as a riverfront restaurant. Over time, plans continued to evolve, and Morris’ daughter Megan Stack joined the passion project. In 2019, The Workshop, a coffee shop and craft space housed in the restored on-site 1930s industrial garage, debuted and quickly became known for its seasonally inspired toasts. More recently, Finley Farms opened The Ozark Mill, a restaurant honoring the area’s culinary traditions while defining the future of Ozarks cuisine, which will have a speakeasy called The Garrison on the lower level. There is also an urban farm on the property, which provides fresh ingredients for the different ventures, and on Thursdays, Finley Farms invites other producers to set up shop at its farmers’ market. Here, executive chef Kevin Korman discusses how he’s helped realize the unique vision for this slice of the Ozarks. What experiences have you had with Ozarks

of pressure for someone not from this

something that’s milled? So that’s why pizza

cuisine? At first, I was very nervous about

area because there’s so much emotional

made sense to me. We make our pizza dough

taking this job because I’m not from the

connection to that restaurant. I’m taking a

in-house every day using freshly ground

area and I really didn’t know anything about

very delicate approach – I want to be sure

hard red wheat flour, and we take the time to

it. Before I accepted the job, I did my own

that I’m listening to all the people who have

ferment the dough to give it an extra layer of

research, digging into this rabbit hole to see

spent birthdays, holidays and anniversaries

flavor while highlighting the methods of the

what Ozarks cuisine is, but there’s not a lot of

there. I want to listen to their stories and then

original bread bakers of the region. We also

information about it out there. What I came

try to tell them in my own way. I’m going to

started to incorporate the farm’s ingredients

to find is that [many settlers of] the Ozarks

[draw from] the influence of the area without

[as toppings] because they’re really fantastic.

came from Appalachia, which is perfect

trying to completely recreate [traditional

We’ve got another dish where we’re using

because that’s where I was living before this.

Ozarks cuisine]. I utilize native ingredients

cornmeal and making a kind of cornbread

A lot of the food history came from that area,

and try to bring a fresh approach to the food.

gnocchi. The watermill was a gristmill, so they were grinding corn, mixing it with

too, and I had already done research [on that]. How did the original watermill inspire the

molasses and using it for animal feed. So, we

The Ozark Mill honors the legacy of the

menu at The Ozark Mill? We went through

incorporate some molasses and some sweet

Riverside Inn, open between 1923 and

20-something different concepts, but the

sorghum into the menu, as well.

2009. How did you find a balance between

piece of the puzzle that kept making sense

respecting Ozarks tradition and bringing

to me was that it’s a mill. How [could] we

802 Finley Farms Lane, Ozark, Missouri,

your own flair to the cuisine? It’s a lot

have a restaurant inside a mill and not serve

finleyfarmsmo.com

mushroom yard pizza

Mushrooms flourish in the Ozarks region, and Finley Farms cultivates its own shiitakes on the property for this housemade pizza.

green tomato cake

Korman wanted The Ozark Mill’s signature dessert to speak to the farm. But green tomatoes in a cake? “It’s going to blow your mind how good it is,” Korman reassures. “It tastes like the carrot cake that you never had but you always wanted.” / o c to be r 2 02 1

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Bentonville, Arkansas written by Brooke Spalding / photography by Sydney Henjum

Seemingly overnight, Bentonville, Arkansas, has become a bustling culinary hotspot, with dedicated chefs and bakers serving traditional and modern takes on High South cuisine. A quick road trip down south will satisfy your hankering for Ozarks food, whether you’re looking for a moonshine cocktail, a fried bologna sandwich or freshwater fish. Even if you didn’t grow up on High South cuisine, there’s still something nostalgic and familiar about digging into a dish full of local ingredients such as black walnuts, freshly milled cornmeal, okra, sweet onions and sorghum.

▼ Tusk and Trotter The menu at Tusk and Trotter is steeped in Ozarks tradition. Executive chef Rob Nelson looks at age-old family recipes through a modern lens, creating dishes such as the small plate of boiled peanuts, which are boiled with vegetable stock and Trinidad Scorpion peppers – one of the spiciest chiles on the planet – for 17 to 36 hours. Another standout includes the rice-encrusted trout paired with house-cured bacon, rice grits and edamame. From the bar, mixologist Scott Baker recommends the seasonal Walnut Old Fashioned. 110 SE. A St., Bentonville, Arkansas, tuskandtrotter.com

▲ Eleven Located at Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Eleven feels like a continuation of the artwork on display. Inside the stunning setting, diners can enjoy locally sourced ingredients and beautifully plated dishes that might remind you of something your grandparents used to cook. Try the heirloom beans slow-simmered with ham hock, vegetables and spices and served with thick-sliced cornbread and honey butter. 600 Museum Way, Bentonville, Arkansas, crystalbridges.org/eleven-restaurant

WThe fried bologna

panini, a favorite

among guests and staff, boasts thinly sliced, caramelized craft bologna and piccalilli, a relish from the U.K. strewn with cauliflower, onions and gherkins.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

◀ Gooseberry Handmade Pies The housemade crust and extensive flavors at Gooseberry Handmade Pies attract pie-lovers

g Celebratin f 76 Years o Service 1945-2021

from near and far. Owners Paul and Abbie Frintrup make one pie, in particular, that spotlights a special ingredient from the region: Ozark Mountain Grape made with Concord grapes grown in Altus, Arkansas, between OzarkSt. Francis National Forest and the Arkansas River. The couple deseeds the grapes by hand, mixes them with bright citrus and wraps everything up in a flaky crust for a little slice of heaven. 2210 S. Walton Blvd., Suite 12, Bentonville, Arkansas, gooseberrypies.com

4324 Weber eber Road, St. Louis, MO 63123

314-631-2440

kenricks.com Hours: Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm Sat. 8 am – 5 pm • Sun. 9 am – 4 pm

CELEBRATE

Oktoberfest ▲ The Hive Matthew McClure’s approach to refined country cuisine pays homage to the humble origins of High South food while showcasing the evolving culinary identity of the area. Executive chef of The Hive and an Arkansas native, McClure suggests sharing the tangy pimento cheese served with bacon jam and locally made white bread. Then, dig into the popular Berkshire pork chop, which comes with roasted squash and salsa verde. Wash the rich dish down with the seasonal Bad Moon Rising cocktail, featuring hickory wood-softened moonshine, to round out this elevated Ozarks experience.

with Kenrick’s!

Over 85 Varieties of Bratwurst & Sausages All Smoked In Our Smokehouse

200 NE. A St., Bentonville, Arkansas, thehivebentonville.com / o c to be r 2 02 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

What Is It? From the same family as pawpaws, cherimoyas possess an almost-identical flavor and texture. Notes of banana, mango, papaya and pineapple whirl together to form a custardy, spoonable interior, while the exterior of the cherimoya reminds me of a cross between an artichoke and crocodile scales. Pawpaws seem to be in season for five minutes, but cherimoyas are available domestically from October through late spring.

What Do I Do With It?

For many of us, pawpaws are the stuff of lore. The tropical fruit, so incongruous with its native Ozarks region, is magical yet elusive. The humble cherimoya, on the other hand, is astoundingly similar and likely lurking right under your nose.

Unlike pawpaws, a darling of the foraging community, your hunt for cherimoya should only lead you as far as the nearest international market or well-stocked grocery store. Pawpaws are precious, so if you get your hands on one, it’s best to savor it raw. Cherimoya’s availability, by contrast, means you can get creative. Don’t overdo it, though, or you’ll kill the flavor and texture that set it apart. Use it raw in salads, smoothies, sorbets and cold soups, or cook it gently – as I do for this curd – to preserve its delicate flavor and keep it around for an extended length of time. Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Breakfast Tartines with Cherimoya Curd and Almond-Rosemary Muesli Crumble serves 8

This tartine balances gentle sweetness from the curd with a savory hit from the crumble. The grainy toast base and smear of Greek yogurt help to create a satisfying meal that tastes more indulgent than it is.

Cherimoya Curd 1 cup cherimoya pulp, seeds removed, puréed ¾ cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 2 large egg yolks ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tsp cornstarch 1 fat pinch kosher salt 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes Almond-Rosemary Muesli Crumble ¼ cup brown sugar ¼ tsp kosher salt 1 egg white I like Bob’s Red 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil Mill gluten-free 2 Tbsp honey muesli. 1 cup muesli ½ cup old-fashioned oats ½ cup sliced almonds 1½ Tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped Breakfast Tartines 1 loaf grainy bread, thick-sliced and toasted 1 to 1½ cups Greek yogurt cherimoya curd (recipe follows) almond-rosemary muesli crumble (recipe follows)

/ preparation – cherimoya curd / Set a double boiler over medium heat. Once water begins to simmer, add cherimoya, sugar, eggs, yolks, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt; whisk to combine. Continue to whisk and add butter cubes, a few at a time. Whisk until curd has thickened (it should coat the back of a spoon) and reaches 160°F. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Once cool, transfer curd to an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to one week.

It’s bes t to ma ke this cur d a day a h ead of time so that it ’s thoroug hly chil led before you ser ve it.

/ preparation – almond-rosemary muesli crumble / Preheat oven to 325°F. Line a lipped baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk brown sugar, salt, egg white, oil and honey together in a medium bowl. In another bowl, toss muesli, oats, almonds and rosemary until combined. Add dry ingredients to wet; use a rubber spatula to stir until mixture is homogeneous. Pour onto prepared baking sheet and spread mixture out into clusters. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 23 minutes. Remove from oven and allow crumble to cool completely on pan before breaking into smaller clusters. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one week. / preparation – breakfast tartines / Arrange toasted bread on plates; spread 2 to 3 tablespoons Greek yogurt over each slice. Top with 1 to 1½ tablespoons cherimoya curd and swirl together with a spoon. Top with muesli crumble and serve. / o c to be r 2 02 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

Trust the Process Once a means of survival

in the Ozarks, deer hunting is a time-honored tradition. Today, hunters across Missouri anticipate the start of deer season in the fall – a time when they can become an active participant in nature and take responsibility for their food. With abundant wildlife in local woods – even a large portion of Mark Twain National Forest is designated public hunting land – deer and other game animals such as bison, turkey and wild hogs may be harvested with the proper permits. This year, the Missouri Department of Conservation has determined that archery season for deer will run from now through Nov.

Hunting season is also a busy time for the businesses that process wild game. There are hundreds of accredited places throughout the state to take your deer, elk and other animals, but these four will give you an idea of where to start. They stand ready to produce steaks, roasts, ribs, stew meat, patties, summer sausage, jerky and more for you and your family to savor throughout the winter.  Cloud’s Meats Since opening in 1959, Cloud’s Meats in Carthage, Missouri, has established itself as a go-to for smoked meats and sausages. Today, bison, elk and wild hogs make up a large part of its fall and winter business, and it processes more than 1,500 deer per year for hunters of the four-state area. Look to them to turn venison into meaty snacks such as whole-muscle jerky, honey barbecue snack sticks and the everpopular cheese and jalapeño bratwurst. 2013 Paradise Lane, Carthage, Missouri, cloudsmeats.com

 G & W Meat & Sausage Co. Not much has changed at G & W Meat & Sausage Co. since it was founded in St. Louis in 1965, including the option to drink a free Busch beer while you wait in line. With a full deer-processing facility on-site, the business promises individualized service and outstanding final products, including its famous bratwurst, smoked landjäger and summer sausage in flavors such as Cajun, chipotle, maple and red pepper. 4828 Parker Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, gwsausage.com  Nadler’s Meats Selling sought-after products such as summer sausage and snack sticks, Nadler’s Meats in Wellington, Missouri, has become a premier year-round meat processor, handling deer and other wild game – not only from Missouri, but from across the country – with care and precision. Consider converting your bag into breakfast sausage, Polish sausage, stew meat, steaks, Cheddar patties, pepper Jack-jalapeño summer sausage or teriyaki snack sticks. 5527 W. Highway 224, Wellington, Missouri, nadlersmeats.com

12 and again from Nov. 24 to Jan. 15, while rifle season for deer will be Nov. 13 through 23. written by Jenny Vergara photography by pilsen photo co-op

 Zimmerman Meats Zimmerman Meats has grown from a small butcher shop in Summersville, Missouri, to a state-inspected meat processing plant with three Missouri retail locations in less than 20 years. Now owned by brothers John and Josh Cartwright, the business continues to expand, selling wholesale to restaurants and offering custom processing of cows, hogs, lambs, goats, bison and, of course, deer. The duo proudly makes jerky, snack sticks, summer sausage and bratwursts; they can even turn venison into spectacularly seasoned bacon, bologna or salami. 4534 Highway 17, Summersville, Missouri, zimmermanmeats.com

the Harvest 28

Administered by the Conservation Federation of Missouri and the Missouri Department of Conservation, the Share the Harvest program allows hunters to donate surplus venison to those in need in the local community. Donating is easy: Simply take your meat to an approved meat processor, including these four, and let the processor know how much you wish to donate. If you want to donate a deer that was harvested in a county within the CWD (Chronic Wasting Disease) Management Zone, the deer must be tested for CWD, and it can only be donated to an approved processor that is participating in the Share the Harvest CWD-Testing Program.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

Sikeston, Mo

with Matt Heckemeyer / owner, Sugarmill Distilling How has the production of sweet sorghum evolved over the years? The history behind sweet sorghum is really nifty. At one time, there was more sweet sorghum grown in the U.S.

Written by Rachel Huffman

than sugarcane – that’s how the majority of

photography by mallory whiffen

the rural population got its sugar. You couldn’t run down to the store and buy a pound of sugar, so people grew sweet sorghum, which

In an effort to find a green energy

is why it’s embedded in traditional Ozarks

source, Matt Heckemeyer, owner of

food, for instance. I plant 100 to 250 acres

Sugarmill Distilling, started growing

a year, but 1 acre of sweet sorghum is more

sweet sorghum on his family’s cattle

than enough for a family. The sugar industry,

ranch in Sikeston, Missouri, but he

as far as sweet sorghum is concerned, hasn’t really evolved since then. Mennonites and

quickly understood why the crop is

other people living in rural and mountainous

of greater value as food. A drought-

areas have continued to make sweet sorghum

resistant, heat-tolerant member of

using traditional methods, while I’ve embraced

the grass family, sweet sorghum is

modern technology. I can produce a lot of

harvested for its stalks, which are

sweet sorghum very quickly, which puts me into a different category – I can make enough to sell

crushed to produce a syrup that can

to a large company that might put the syrup in

replace molasses, honey or maple

a granola bar or use it in soy sauce. Personally,

syrup in myriad recipes from breads

I make products such as vinegar, tea, beer and

and cookies to glazes and barbecue

whiskey using sweet sorghum syrup.

sauce. Although sweet sorghum is

Why do cattle and sweet sorghum work so

sugar, Heckemeyer says it’s one of

well together? The beauty of sweet sorghum

the healthiest foods known to human

is that, compared to corn, it requires so little

beings. “Dr. Gillian Eggleston [director

fertilizer and a third of the water. I can produce as much sweet sorghum per acre as corn,

of the Audubon Sugar Institute at

plus I can use the whole plant: I get a seed

Louisiana State University] has

crop off the top, which I can harvest, I get the

published 15 papers from my mill,”

sugar out of the stalks and then I get all of the

he says. “She found that sweet

leftover stalk to feed to the cattle, whereas

sorghum has more antioxidants than

with corn, you only get a kernel. It’s just more efficient, and the whole world is waking up to

blueberries and honey, and it has

the potential of sweet sorghum. I’ve talked to

more potassium than bananas. It

people in a lot of different countries, especially

was even something doctors used to

in Africa where sweet sorghum is native, who

prescribe to their patients.” With its

are looking for a more efficient crop to grow. Incredibly, sweet sorghum is everything they

uniquely earthy flavor, astounding

need for their livestock and for themselves.

nutritive value and sustainability, sweet sorghum has big potential.

sweetsorghumsyrup.com

3 sweet sorghum PRODUCTS syrup

beer

vinegar

Heckemeyer produces more than

Sugarmill Distilling has

Featuring sweet sorghum, this

10,000 gallons of sweet sorghum

crafted an amber lager and

vinegar is fine and smooth, and

syrup a year, and while you’re

an IPA, and it’s also working

Heckemeyer has been known to

encouraged to create your own

on a darker beer. The sweet

drink it straight out of the bottle.

flavor combinations, his favorite

sorghum gives each of the

Anything you do with apple cider

items to pair with it are coffee,

beers a grounded flavor

vinegar, you can do with this

bacon, fried chicken, green beans,

that Heckemeyer says

vinegar: Use it in homemade cakes,

burritos and his mom’s pecan pie.

nothing else can replicate.

soups, sauces, hot drinks and more.

/ o c to be r 2 02 1

Vi n

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

r Pi a e g

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Desperation pies have been part of the U.S. culinary tradition since the early 1800s, when resourceful farming families would replace seasonal fruit with whatever they could find in their cupboards to create equally delicious desserts. True to its name, vinegar pie, one type of desperation pie, uses apple cider vinegar instead of citrus fruit to add a touch of acid to each slice and balance out the sweetness of the rich custard filling. Despite its humble history, vinegar pie prevails today as a simple, comforting – and increasingly popular – flavor in the Ozarks region. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

t e m s r e t u a o l G choco P R O M OT I O N

YIELDS one 9-inch pie Dough 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp sugar 8 Tbsp unsalted butter, cold, cut into ½-inch cubes ¼ cup ice-cold water ½ tsp apple cider vinegar

Filling 1 cup light brown sugar 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour ¾ tsp kosher salt 4 large eggs 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp vanilla extract

/ preparation – dough / In a large bowl, combine flour, salt and sugar. Add butter and lightly toss to coat. Using a pastry blender, cut butter into flour mixture until it becomes the size of peas (a few remaining large chunks are OK). Combine water and vinegar and then add to flour mixture; mix with a fork until incorporated. If the mixture appears dry, add 1 tablespoon water at a time until no dry spots remain. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface and bring together with your hands. Using your hands, turn dough over on itself and then press with your palms. Repeat these motions a few times until dough comes together with butter pieces still visible throughout. (Don’t overwork the dough, as that will produce a tough crust.) Gently pat dough into a 1-inch-thick round disc and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator to chill, at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Remove dough from refrigerator, discard plastic wrap and set dough on a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll dough out to approximately ¹⁄₈ inch thick (the circle should be approximately ¾ inch wider than a pie plate). Transfer dough to a pie plate and gently press it in. Tuck excess dough around the outer rim under itself to create a uniform crust edge. Decorate edge with desired design. Set pie plate in freezer to chill, 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 425°F. Remove pie plate from freezer and dock the bottom all over with a fork. Cut a large piece of parchment paper into a square that is slightly larger than the pie shell and gently fit it into the chilled crust. Fill parchment paper-lined crust with pie weights, or dried beans, until they reach all the way up to the edges. Place pie plate on a baking sheet; transfer to oven and bake, 15 to 18 minutes or until the edges begin to lightly brown. Remove from oven and carefully lift parchment paper with weights/beans out of the pie crust. Place pie plate back in oven and bake, 3 to 4 minutes or until the bottom appears set and edges are a light golden brown. Remove from oven and set on a wire rack to cool. / preparation – filling / In a large bowl, whisk together all ingredients until combined with no flour streaks remaining. / assembly / When ready to bake filling, preheat oven to 350°F. Brush the edges of the pie crust with egg wash (1 large egg, lightly beaten) and then pour in the filling. Bake until crust is deeply golden brown and filling is set in the center (the center should not jiggle when the edge of the pie plate is lightly nudged), 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and set on a wire rack to cool. Slice and serve with a dollop of whipped cream or a dusting of powdered sugar.

pair with: Gin

ENTER THE CANNABIS GAME IN MISSOURI SPONSORED CONTENT BY ARI BENDERSKY, BRAND AVE. STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING WRITER

This content was produced by Brand Ave. Studios in conjunction with Clovr Cannabis. Brand Ave Studios has no affiliation with the products or recommendations. The news and editorial departments had no role in its creation or display.

When people eat a cannabis edible, it’s usually with the goal of getting high or to alleviate some ailment. Why not truly enjoy that piece of candy and give yourself a moment of joyful decadence at the start of your journey? That was the idea when Clovr, one of Missouri’s preeminent producers of medical cannabis products, approached acclaimed Kansas City chocolatier Christopher Elbow to partner on a line of high-quality and delicious THC-infused chocolates. Chocolate enthusiasts can now find these tasty new products in about 80 dispensaries across Missouri. Currently, customers can enjoy hand-crafted crème brûlée, salted almond and Venezuelan 72% dark chocolate bars. The hardshelled one-bite bonbons — almost too beautiful to eat — make way to a creamy caramel center in three flavors: salted vanilla caramel, citrus caramel in a white chocolate shell and Italian espresso caramel in dark chocolate.

And you can expect even more varieties and seasonal flavors to roll out over time. In the days before legalization you couldn’t guarantee balanced infusion of THC in edibles, which often would come with a very strong marijuana taste. However, the Clovr chocolates contain an even distribution of THC distillate. It also strips out the “weedy” notes, leaving you to fully enjoy the flavors of the chocolate bars and bonbons. “Just remember not to enjoy them too much, as they are still infused with THC,” Christopher Elbow cautioned. Consumers should note the dose of each section in a chocolate bar or bonbon before eating. However, he added on a lighter note, “For chocolate fans, this could be a game changer for your medical cannabis enjoyment.”

PA I R IT!

Pair this pie with Pillar 136 Gin from S.D. Strong Distilling in Parkville, Missouri. Made in a cave, the gin has a juniper-forward nose with strong citrus flavors on the palate, which give way to ginger and black licorice on the finish. For a Gin Fizz, add 2 ounces gin, ¾ ounce simple syrup, ¾ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice and 1 egg white to a shaker tin; reverse dry shake and double strain into a Collins glass. Top with soda water. Garnish with lemon peel. –Darrell Loo sdstrongdistilling.com PHOTO PROVIDED BY CLOVR CANNABIS

/ o c to be r 2 02 1

PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

GET TO KNOW THESE PA RSLE Y FAMILY POWERHOUSES S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K R I S T I E L E I N PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

CELERY

DILL

PARSNIP

PARSLEY

First, some myth-busting: Celery is not a negative-calorie food; no food is. Eating celery does not expend more calories than it contains (about 10 calories per large stalk). But there are still plenty of reasons to work it into your diet. Celery is high in water, which keeps you fuller for longer, and it’s a good source of fiber, folate and potassium. The leaves also hold loads of nutrients — use them just as you would parsley.

While most of us associate dill with pickles or dips, the herb contains a remarkable amount of good-for-you nutrients, such as vitamins A and C, iron and calcium. It’s great for heart health, and there’s some evidence that dill can help mitigate diabetes — or even prevent it from developing. Fresh or dried dill (dried is more potent) pairs particularly well with traditional autumn side dishes, such as roasted carrots and sweet potatoes.

An earthier, nuttier and even sweeter (when cooked) alternative to carrots, parsnips are terrific additions to meals in fall and winter — that’s when parsnips are in season and at their best. Toss them into stews, puree them into a creamy side dish, slice them lengthwise and bake like fries—all of these preparations bring vital nutrients including manganese, folate and vitamin C.

Chimichurri sauce, parsley pesto and tabbouleh might have their origins in distant corners of the world, but parsley is their common denominator. The verdant herb is a low-calorie way to brighten a range of food while imparting vitamins C and K, iron and magnesium, and it’s thought to be particularly good for the kidneys.

 DOCTOR'S “Parsley” is more than an herb; it also refers to an entire family of plants and vegetables (Apiaceae) that includes parsnips, celery, carrots, cumin, dill and cilantro. And even though these foods might not take center stage for meals, they are brimming with crucially important vitamins, antioxidants and fiber. Along with vitamins A (excellent for eye health) and C (hello, healthy skin!), members of the parsley family are excellent sources of vitamin K. “Vitamin K helps to make some of the proteins that are essential for blood clotting and for building healthy bones,” says Dr. Adetunji Toriola, a Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center. Vegetables in the parsley family contain significant amounts of water and fiber, which boosts hydration and leads to feeling fuller longer. It isn’t even necessary to wait around for plants in the parsley family to grow: The seeds themselves are beneficial. “Cumin has been shown to aid

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

4 salmon fillets (4 oz each) ½ tsp salt ½ tsp garlic powder ¼ tsp red pepper flakes

DILL SAUCE ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup plain Greek yogurt 1 Tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp garlic, minced 2 tsp fresh dill (or 1 tsp dill weed)

3 cups carrots, shredded 2 green onions, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp fresh chopped parsley 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp honey Salt and pepper to taste

digestion and may even help with symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome,” Dr. Toriola says, “and coriander, the seeds of the cilantro plant, can help lower blood sugar and fight inflammation.”

Beyond their slate of health benefits, the aromatic spices that make up the parsley family — such as cumin, dill, anise and fennel — simply taste good. Dr. Toriola points out that reaching for spices rather than salt or sugar is a far superior way to impart flavor and save calories.

SALMON

PARSLEY DIJON CARROTS

ORDERS

Members of the parsley family are also loaded with antioxidants, compounds that sweep away harmful cellular buildup. “The body generates what’s called free radicals, which are unstable molecules that are produced in the body as a response to many environmental and chemical reactions,” explains Dr. Toriola. These reactions can potentially lead to a number of cancers and diseases, but antioxidants in foods like parsley help mitigate the damage that free radicals can cause to cells throughout the body.

Salmon with Dill Sauce and Parsley Dijon Carrots

PREPARATION DR. ADETUNJI TORIOLA

Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Better still, herbs like parsley and dill are widely available in both fresh and dried forms. If given the choice, though, Dr. Toriola says that “fresh is always best because all of the nutrients are still preserved. But even if you cannot have them fresh, dried will still do you a lot of good. They still have a substantial amount of vitamins and nutrients that the body can make use of.”

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place salmon fillets skin side down in ungreased baking pan. Season with salt, garlic powder and red pepper flakes. In small bowl, mix ingredients for dill sauce (mayonnaise, yogurt, lemon juice, garlic and dill) and set aside. In medium bowl, combine carrots and green onions. Whisk together dressing of olive oil, Dijon mustard, vinegar and honey. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour dressing over carrot mixture and stir to coat. Set aside. Bake salmon for 15–20 minutes, until fish begins to flake easily with fork. Top each fillet with dill sauce and serve with carrots.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

WAMEGO, KS

with Eric Depradine / owner, Zydeco Meadery

This dry mead gets it s signature fl avor from honey harves ted in the Ozark Mountains.

Written by Hannah Coffman / photography by jason dailey

The handcrafted meads from Zydeco Meadery in Wamego, Kansas, stem from a long family tradition started by owner Eric Depradine’s grandmother, who taught him how to make a nonalcoholic hibiscus drink (also known as Sorrel, among other names) found in the Caribbean, the Gulf Coast of Mexico, northern South America and West Africa. Depradine and his wife, DeAundra, decided to try their hand at recreating the drink with an alcoholic twist, and their hibiscus mead was born. Today, Zydeco meads feature honey, fruit and other ingredients sourced from locations in the U.S. that have special meaning for the family. Mass Memories, for example, is an homage to Depradine’s home state of Massachusetts. Made with cranberry blossom honey from Nantucket and dark amber maple syrup from the Berkshires, it should be enjoyed chilled like the breeze on the shores of Cape Cod. Creole Queen, one of Zydeco’s most popular meads, has nothing but honey, which comes

Ozark Beauty is one of Depradine’s most

from the prairies of Louisiana where the Depradines met and fermented their first bottle of mead in 2011.

strongly flavored meads – and one of his personal favorites. It has three simple ingredients (water, yeast

How has your heritage influenced your recipes? My grandmother is from Trinidad, and she learned to make a hibiscus drink, Sorrel, from her great-grandparents. Sorrel is a common drink in the Caribbean that’s associated with the holidays, but it transcends ethnicity. Everyone likes it because it’s sweet, with a cranberry-like flavor. Zydeco’s hibiscus mead, made with hibiscus Calyces, ginger, spices and Kansas wildflower honey, has a similar flavor profile to Sorrel, but it goes through a fermentation process. Zydeco specializes in dry meads, but the hibiscus mead based on my grandmother’s Sorrel recipe is sweet. What does it mean to you, your family and your community that Zydeco Meadery has become such a success? Black folks have a long tradition of making alcohol in this country, even though it’s not well-documented. We want to be a part of that tradition and make a small contribution to that little-known part of American history. That’s what motivates us – because running the business can be stressful at times. We don’t come from money, and it can

be a challenge, but we want to obliterate the stereotype that people of color don’t belong in alcohol manufacturing.

and honey), but the honey is harvested in the Ozark Mountains of northern Arkansas, giving the mead an intensely rich flavor, mineral undertones and a

How do you hope to expand Zydeco in the future? My wife and I drive from Kansas City to the Old Town Farm & Art Market in Wichita, Kansas, every Saturday, rain or shine, to sell the mead; they’ve been so supportive of us. We’ve also joined the Rosedale Farmers Market in Kansas City, Kansas, on Sundays, and we hope to expand to a third market in 2022. My wife, our kids and I also planted a small apple orchard in 2020 with the hope [of growing] our own apples for hard cider – the orchard should be in production in the next four or five years. We do already sell one cyser [a mead fermented from apple juice rather than water] called Kanza Cyser. Apples played an important role in the history of Massachusetts, which is where I’m from, so I would like to continue to incorporate them into our products.

powerful honey finish. A wildflower blend containing soybean flower nectar and cotton flower nectar, the honey has a consistent flavor profile year-round, and it provides a robust quality and residual sweetness to the mead without the back-sweetening process that some meads undergo. “Drinking Ozark Beauty makes you feel like you have a bit of the Ozarks in your glass,” Depradine says. This and other Zydeco meads can be found at retailers throughout the region, including Beer Cave Wine & Spirits in Overland Park, Kansas, and 456 Wineries, a wine incubator in Wamego, Kansas, where Depradine produces the meads.

zydecomeadery.net / o c to be r 2 02 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

Sorghum-Pecan Popcorn Balls

In this class, you’ll learn about the candy-making process. We’ll use sorghum in both syrup and flour forms, along with other ingredients native to our area, to craft treats just in time for Halloween.

Sweet sorghum syrup, a staple of High South cuisine, adds a nutty yet sweet layer of flavor to morning biscuits, cakes, glazes and, of course, these popcorn balls. It replaces corn syrup in this old-fashioned treat, which is a fun and delicious way to celebrate the season. Written by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

serves 6

Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 3pm on Sat., Oct. 30 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 34

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8 1 ¹⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ 1 1 1 1 1 ¹⁄₈ ¼

cups popped popcorn cup sugar cup sweet sorghum syrup cup water Tbsp white vinegar tsp cream of tartar Tbsp butter, melted tsp sea salt tsp vanilla extract tsp baking soda cup pecans

/ preparation / Place popcorn in a large nonstick bowl or pan. Combine sugar, sweet MAKE THE MEAL sorghum, water and vinegar in a 2-quart • Sorghum-Pecan Popcorn Balls saucepan; bring to a boil and then stir in cream • Black Walnut Shortbread of tartar. Continue boiling, stirring constantly, • Persimmon Cookies until mixture reaches between 275°F and • Gluten-Free Sorghum Brownies 280°F. Remove from heat. Add butter, sea salt, vanilla extract and baking soda; stir until fully incorporated. Pour mixture over popcorn, stirring with a rubber spatula until popcorn is completely coated. Add pecans; stir to incorporate. Butter hands and immediately form mixture into balls, using approximately 1½ cups popcorn mixture per ball. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one week.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

SPRINGFIELD, MO

with Bo Brown / author, Foraging the Ozarks t Author Bo Brown’s mother relied on foraging for sustenance during the Great Depression, and years later,

she passed the tradition on to her children. In his recent field guide, Foraging the Ozarks (2020), which includes foraging wisdom, plant identification, preparation methods and recipes, Brown continues to pass the region’s customs on to younger generations. –As told to Jessica Vaughn Martin photo by dean groover In my teens, I forwent the lifestyle of foraging, and I was a full-time musician until 1985, but once I started digging into plants again, I couldn’t stop. Jim “Fire Eagle” Boose, a Native American descendant whom I met when we were both working at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri, renewed my interest in foraging and primitive skills. He encouraged people to spend some time on a piece of land and get to know everything you can about it. If you see a plant that catches your eye, learn all you can about it. My book can help with that. Foraging provides a range of flavors – some familiar, others like you’ve never tasted. Wood sorrel, for example, tastes like lemon, and peppergrass tastes like black pepper, but there’s also black haw berries, persimmons, wild passionfruit and maypops (purple passion flowers). Our native maypop has a particularly tropical flavor and aroma, and maypop jelly is the best. The fruits on the cover of the book are ground plums; they’re crunchy and watery and taste like sweet snow peas. I recently pickled them in a salt brine, and the result was the crunchiest sour dill pickle I’ve ever had. You have to put in the time if you’re going to forage, though; there are no shortcuts. But I bet you already know half a dozen wild edibles that are underfoot, from broadleaf plantain, which is a good addition to salad, to dandelion, which I learned to make into syrup from Rachael West of Eating the Ozarks (p. 41). The syrup reminds me of Kahlúa without the alcohol. I suggest going on guided foraging or wildflower walks in our state parks, investing in as many identification guides as you can and joining foraging groups on social media. After all, we just need knowledge to preserve our traditions. Order a signed copy of Foraging the Ozarks and sign up for a foraging walk or wilderness survival class with Bo Brown at firstearth.org.

��

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midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

If you live in the Midwest, chances are you’ve been fishing a time or two. Casting a line into the water and waiting patiently for a bite can benefit the mind and body. Simply spending time in nature encourages your brain to stop jumping from task to task; your breathing slows, your muscles loosen and your heart rate decreases. It’s all so…still. And yet, the activity also conditions your body, improving hand-eye coordination, working muscles in your hands, arms and shoulders and increasing cardiovascular endurance if you’re fortunate enough to reel in a big one. Fishing is also a critical part of local tourism, especially in the Ozarks. The money paid for fishing licenses helps maintain our state parks and other

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com

conservation areas, and family-owned campsites, cabins, resorts and restaurants benefit from the influx of visitors looking to kick back with their fishing rods for a few days. Thankfully, a gorgeous variety of fish species inhabit Missouri rivers, so seasoned anglers and young families alike can enjoy the adventure. PHOTOgraphy BY BEN NICKELSON

Fish of the Ozarks Native to the Ozarks region, these fish provide a tasty meal. 36

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

Catfish

Bass

(channel and flathead)

(striped, spotted, rock, white, smallmouth and largemouth)

Bluegill

Crappie

(black and white)

THE MAIN EVENT

AFTER THE CATCH

Rod and Reel. It takes time to find the right rod and reel combination, so do your research or talk to an expert to determine the best setup depending on factors such as skill level and what you’ll be fishing. For instance, baitcasting rods are great for beginners, while spinning rods might require a little more expertise. Different reels require different hand positioning, so an expert can help you decide the most natural fit for your fishing style.

Net. A fishing net isn’t a strict requirement, but it’ll help you get your fish in the boat without any mishaps. Look for one that floats, so you don’t lose it mid-battle, and make sure it feels comfortable in your hand, so you can maneuver it with ease.

Before you head to the water, you’ll need to stock up on a few things.

Needle-Nose Pliers. You need these to clip onto sinkers and release caught fish from the hook safely. Fingernail Clippers. These are perfect for cutting monofilament fishing line.

KEEP IT TOGETHER

Stringers. This line of rope or chain strings fish so they can be immersed and kept alive in water.

Tackle Box. You won’t get far without a tackle box, which will keep your fishing accouterments organized for easy access.

Cooler. Especially on warm days, a cooler keeps your catches fresh and cold for as long as you want to stay outside.

Monofilament Fishing Line. A classic for all types of fishing, monofilament fishing line is inexpensive, easy to use and strong; plus, it offers a generous amount of stretch, so you won’t be snapping lines left and right.

SAFETY First Aid Kit. It might seem optional, but you should always bring a first aid kit along for the ride because, well, accidents happen. Stock the kit with antiseptic wipes, bandages, gauze and tape, tweezers, sunscreen and anything else you think will keep you safe.

Hooks and Swivels. Load up your tackle box with hooks, sized for the types of fish you plan to catch. Swivels aren’t a bad idea, either: If you’re catching fish that tend to twist the line, swivels can keep tangles from happening during retrieval, especially when using monofilament.

bpro TIP

Bobbers and Sinkers. Both bobbers and sinkers come in a variety of styles for different uses. The correct ones are critical to your success on the water, so do your research here, too.

“Fingernail clippers are

a must-have for me in order to clip the line after tying knots. Practice tying knots at home, and before long, you’ll be able to do it without

Bait. If you’re near a fishing spot, I can almost guarantee that you’re near a bait shop. Live bait is a great choice, but manmade bait – hard plastic, soft plastic, jigs and spinners – will also help you nab those Missouri fish. Ask your bait shop operator to spill the beans on their favorite picks.

a problem. The Fisherman’s Knot is a good all-purpose knot to start with.” –Craig Howard, Howard’s Farm & Kitchen in Kansas City

Walleye

Muskellunge

Rainbow Trout

Paddlefish / o c to be r 2 02 1

midwest made / hot blocks / the mix / healthy appetite / road trip / MYSTERY SHOPPER / after the hunt / sugar rush / QUICK FIX / crash course

Find Your Fishing Spot Lakes and rivers help define the Ozarks region while providing plenty of places to fish. Lake of the Ozarks and Table Rock Lake are renowned

Bull Shoals Lake

Stockton Lake

The rustic beauty and quiet setting of Bull Shoals

The miles of shoreline and clear waters of Stockton Lake beckon

Lake attracts no-nonsense anglers. Featuring largely

both novice and experienced anglers. Known as one of the best

undeveloped shoreline and dramatic rock ledges,

places to catch walleye, it’s also a great spot for bass, bluegill,

the lake is home to striped bass, catfish and crappie.

catfish and crappie. Stockton State Park offers camping as well

There are also a number of resorts in the area that

as log cabins, but we recommend checking out Stone Creek

provide easy access to the water.

Lodge, where you’ll find a nice station for cleaning your catch.

destinations for anglers of all levels – with activities such as boating, hiking, swimming and even scuba diving also available for the fishing-averse – but if you look a little longer, you’ll find other scenic

Harry S. Truman State Park This park has some of the best white and largemouth bass, catfish and crappie in the state. Located on a

settings within state parks that get you farther

peninsula, it welcomes anglers as well as boaters

from the crowds and more in tune with nature.

and swimmers for a relaxing vacation among gorgeous fall foliage.

Lake Taneycomo Lake Taneycomo is the perfect place to put waders on the kids and teach them how to cast a line. If you need to rent a boat, check out Lilley’s Landing, where you’ll also find fish-cleaning stations. Finished fishing for trout? Try another water activity such as kayaking or paddleboarding.

Pomme de Terre Lake Located in the Osage River Basin, Pomme de Terre Lake but you’ll also find largemouth and white bass, catfish,

Bennett Spring State Park

crappie and walleye in its waters. With two beaches,

One of Missouri’s oldest parks, Bennett Spring is a paradise

plentiful hiking trails, picnic areas and campsites, it’s a

if you’re into rainbow trout. The peaceful park is traversed by

perfect place to spend a quiet weekend.

nature trails, and three accessible fishing piers accommodate

Booking a stay at a privately owned fish camp is

anglers of all abilities.

bpro TIP

Rockbridge Rainbow Trout and Game Ranch another way to experience a fish-forward getaway.

“Bennett Spring is great for fly fishing.

I’ve tied my own flies since I was a kid, and I love catching trout on a fly that I’ve tied. The winter season is the best time to go; the park can be pretty busy in the summer, but in the winter, even on warmer days, you have the place almost all to yourself.” –Craig Howard

Roaring River State Park One of only three Missouri state parks stocked with rainbow trout, Roaring River abounds with scenic vistas of the Ozark Mountains. Last June, the park debuted

Rockbridge Rainbow Trout and Game Ranch in Rockbridge, Missouri, for example, sits along the stunning, crystal-clear Spring Creek, where you can fly- or tackle-fish. Fish camps are subject to different

a state-of-the-art fish-cleaning station with multiple

rules in terms of fishing licenses, so check with the

cutting tables that improve efficiency while disposing

property to see what you need to get before you go.

fish remains in an environmentally friendly manner.

Stop! Don’t put that bait in the water until you have a fishing license. Every fishing license helps fund Missouri conservation efforts

and research and helps keep resources at sustainable levels. Buying a fishing license is easy; however, knowing exactly which one to buy is more difficult. A basic fishing license can be purchased on the Missouri Department of Conservation website (mdc.mo.gov) or via phone (1.800.392.4115), but there are exceptions and discounts for specific groups and circumstances. Depending on what species you’re after, there are also different licenses. You can get a combination hunting and fishing license, as well, and Missouri residents even have the option to buy a lifetime license. Once you have your license, you have to follow the rules to keep it. Everything you need to know is in A Summary of Missouri Fishing Regulations online. 38

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

parks PHOTOgraphy Courtesy of Missouri State Parks; recipe photography by jennifer silverberg

is home to world-class muskellunge (“muskie”) fishing,

Smoked Trout Spread In smoked fish spreads, the main ingredient should be the center of attention, not overshadowed by too many other flavors. This smoked trout spread simply bolsters and balances the trout with fresh herbs and a touch of horseradish heat.

Last Flight Brewing Co.

Yields approximately 1¼ cups 6 to 8 ¾ ½ 2 1½ 1 2 1 to 2 2

oz smoked trout fillets, skin removed, flaked cup crème fraîche cup cream cheese, room temperature tsp prepared horseradish Tbsp capers, rinsed clove garlic, grated juice of 1 medium lemon Tbsp finely diced red onion Tbsp fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped Tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation / Add trout fillets, crème fraîche, cream cheese, horseradish, capers, garlic and lemon juice to the bowl of a food processor; blend until smooth. Add red onion, parsley and dill; pulse to blend or transfer trout mixture to a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients by hand. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate, at least 2 hours, to let flavors blend. / to serve / Transfer smoked trout spread to a serving bowl and set on a platter. Arrange assorted crudités around platter and serve chilled. / o c to be r 2 02 1

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feastmagazine.com 40

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

andelions, wild fungi and red clovers – some might

If people fall in love with the food, then they want to fall in

write these plants off as weeds, but to Rachael West,

love with the land. It’s a way that I can have a bigger reach in

educator and owner of Eating the Ozarks, they are priceless

people’s minds because I got in their bellies. If you feed them,

superfoods. “I put morels up there with gold,” she says.

they’re sold for life, I’ve learned. It’s a very easy entrance.”

Through nature walks, classes and dinners, West, who grew up in Texas, has devoted her career to wild foods education in southwest Missouri. Yet it wasn’t until she found out she was expecting her second child that she really began to notice what was growing in her own backyard. After she realized many of the medicinal plants that she would buy from the store – such as goldenrod and yarrow – grow naturally in the Ozarks, she

With Eating the Ozarks, Rachael West helps southwest Missouri residents explore the natural beauty of wild edibles.

With that in mind, West’s approach to wild foods education is two-pronged. Throughout the year, she hosts wild edible walks and personalized classes at Eating the Ozarks Forest School House in Bois D’Arc, located approximately 15 minutes from Springfield, Missouri, where she teaches participants to forage, identify plants, cook with wild edibles, preserve food and remove invasive species. If you

began foraging for those plants and exploring their flavors,

want to explore what’s growing in your own backyard, you

textures and health benefits. Within a week, she identified more

can even hire West to give you a private tour of your land,

than 40 wild, edible and medicinal plants growing around her, from St. John’s wort, which is high in vitamin D and can help curb mild anxiety and depression in the winter, to goldenrod, which

in which she points out edible plants and describes their story and photography

flavors and health benefits.

by Tessa Cooper

has seven times more antioxidants than green tea.

So what exactly contributes to the wild flavors of the Ozarks? West says the region’s unique climate makes a

“It kind of became an obsession with finding out what foods were things I could feed my family,”

welcome host to all kinds of plants. The extreme temperatures, which vacillate from hot and

West says. “And then it became more about searching for those lost ingredients. That’s where you

muggy summers to bitterly cold winters, allow desert and mountain plants alike to thrive. Wild

find me now with the dinners. If I cook with curly dock, I can teach you that it’s an Armenian plant ...

mushrooms such as maitake, oyster and morel, for instance, grow well in the region due to the

Being able to tell that history and figure out what the culinary use is for that item is a way of teaching.

humidity and dense canopies of trees. / o c to be r 2 02 1

One of West’s favorite wild edibles, purslane, might even be growing in your driveway cracks or

exposed wood interior includes screened openings and a skylight, so you don’t feel far removed

on the edge of your garden. The green leafy vegetable is packed with potassium, magnesium

from the surrounding four acres of Ozarks forest. The yurt’s soft curves combined with the table

and calcium and has five times more omega-3 fatty acids than spinach. If you have a tree in your

setting’s candlelight remain in your memory long after the drive home under starry skies.

backyard, West could also give you some pointers on how to incorporate its bark into your cooking. For instance, she loves using maple bark to make tea, which she then combines with everyday

Every dinner is different, as the courses are inspired by the seasons, but each highlights a mix

ingredients such as flour, oil and sugar to make water cake. Shagbark hickory is also

of foraged and locally produced ingredients. At any one of these events, West might use a syrup

one of her favorite ways to add depth to a classic simple syrup.

made from foraged elderberries to add a unique sweetness to the starter salad. Spicebush twigs might become skewers for chicken, adding a warm, aromatic flavor that’s strikingly similar to

In 2020, West expanded her educational platform to offer southwest Missouri residents a new

allspice. Perhaps most impressively, she can transform what’s often considered a pesky backyard

way to connect with wild edibles: She began hosting five-course wild-infused dinners at Forest

weed into dessert. “I could talk about dandelion all day long, but if I [serve you] dandelion tiramisu,

Garden Yurts in Reeds Spring, Missouri. The combination event venue, campsite and Airbnb

you are never going to argue if it’s edible again,” West says.

owned by Amanda and Nick Francis offers an ethereal backdrop for West's dinners. Dining inside the property’s event space yurt, which was built in the 1970s, feels like stepping back in time. The

At a recent dinner, wild mushrooms made several appearances throughout the night, from the

Mushrooms “During the fall season, black trumpet, lion’s mane and oyster mushrooms are all favorites in our family. From mushroom risotto, fritters and

Even with cooler weather quickly

tacos to brownies, we use

approaching, there’s still plenty

them in everything we can.”

of time to gather your own wild foods. For foraging tips and information on how to identify

Sassafras

Spicebush

plants, West suggests attending

“Raw sassafras leaves have a

“Spicebush is in the same family as

bright lemon or orange peel

sassafras and bay leaves, so I use it

flavor. I use the fresh leaves as a

in soups, baked goods, beans and

seasoning. The roots can be dug

more. I love to use the berries for

up in the fall and add a root beer

spice-doodle cookies or add them

flavor to just about anything, but

to cream for a spiced whipped

I also love nibbling on the early

recommends five native plants to

topping, and I simmer the twigs into

spring buds, which are mildly

tea to add to breads or infuse them

start your foraging journey.

sweet, right from the tree.”

into yogurt, cream and butter.”

one of her classes and picking up a copy of Foraging the Ozarks: Finding, Identifying, and Preparing Edible Wild Foods in the Ozarks by Bo Brown (p. 35). Here, West

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

trumpet mushroom butter slathered on housemade bread to the chanterelle mushrooms lending their inimitable peppery and earthy flavor to a decadent fettucine. West’s smokymeets-fruity main course of chicken marinated in spicebush and pawpaws perfectly exemplified how she uses contrasting profiles to create one wild yet cohesive flavor. She also worked a hint of tartness into the meal with elderberry and wild oregano vinegar cucumbers, served next to an elderberry-pickled egg spear, before capping the experience off with pawpaw pudding – the ideal vehicle to let the elusive fruit’s tropical flavor shine. West maintains that she’s not teaching anything revolutionary; she's merely keeping Ozarks tradition alive. “I know that anybody’s grandparents would have foraged the

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dandelion and the sorrels and things like that just because they hadn’t lost the fact that it was still a food source, even in their gardens,” West says. “My great-great-grandmother knew which ‘weeds’ to leave in her garden for food and to build up the soil. It was more about knowing what you were using that was around you.”

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Pawpaw “Pawpaw is a tropicalflavored fruit found right here in the Ozarks each fall. It has a banana-like texture with a mango-pineapple flavor, so I love to use it in custards, cakes and pound cake-style breads.”

Passion Flowers “Passion flowers are a Missouri native, and I love using the blooms and leaves in tea – they dry well, can be used all season and make for a naturally calming and sweet tea. They also have small eggshaped fruits that remind me of a tropical fruit like pomegranate in both flavor and texture.”

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To fully embed his St. Louis restaurant in the cuisine of the Ozarks, Bulrush owner Rob Connoley went back to the field – and the history books. hen we opened Bulrush in St. Louis in 2019, we weren’t quite sure what the focus

Researching those 25 seeds, I found most had academic papers written about them, suggesting

would be beyond looking at the roots of Ozarks foods. But there was something

their historic importance to the region. I read accounts of the Rohan potato (now believed

about that kernel of an idea that drew us an eclectic group of supporters, including

extinct), the Marrowfat pea (a workhorse of a pea in its day) and the White Spurd cucumber

a large number of scientists, academics and archivists. While I joke that I probably have more

(loaded with more seeds than the modern consumer would appreciate). None of these

paleoethnobotanist friends than anyone else, the real boon has been the archivists.

vegetables had been served in a modern area restaurant – possibly ever, if their disappearance preceded the opening of restaurants.

Among those archivists is Jennifer Clark, who at the time was the lead archivist of the Gateway Arch National Park Museum. Clark dined at Bulrush in our opening months and was intrigued by

Since most of the 25 seeds weren’t readily available through online seed stores, I reached out to

our focus on the Ozarks cuisine of the early 19th century. She saw what her peer network could

two seed banks in the region: Seed Savers Exchange in Decorah, Iowa, and Baker Creek Heirloom

potentially offer to our project and invited me to a local archivists’ meeting in the Carondelet

Seeds in Mansfield, Missouri. Seed Savers’ director of preservation, Philip Kauth, offered me a

neighborhood.

few of the seeds on the “missing” list and then shared a few other known Ozarks heritage seeds, including the Eliza Jane Byrd bean and the Saltenberger tomato, both with documented family

With my pressing kitchen prep list overwhelming my mind, I sat on a cold, gray metal folding

provenance to the region.

chair, plotting my escape in case the meeting droned on. Abruptly, an older fellow sat down next to me and introduced himself. “I’m Richard Buthod, an archivist at the St. Louis City Recorder

Meanwhile, I gathered a team of small-farm growers who were willing to try seeds that didn’t

of Deeds Office.” At that moment I thought the person with the least exciting archival job in

have a recent proven track record. For many, dedicating acreage to plants that could fail was

the room had just sat next to me, but I later learned how important his role is in tracing family

risky; yet, in all, I recruited a dozen farmers to grow 23 seeds for the project. The only carrot I

genealogy, among many other subjects. I politely responded, “I’m Rob Connoley, a chef, and I have

was able to offer the growers was a guarantee that if they were able “to get it out of the ground,”

a small restaurant focused on historic Ozarks cuisine from the early 19th century.” Buthod’s eyes

I would buy their crops at premium prices. Most were on board despite that guarantee, however,

lit up and he said, “Now I know why I felt compelled to sit down next to you!”

out of pure curiosity of these mostly inaccessible seeds.

Buthod shared that he recently looked through a set of old ledgers in the city’s archival vault, and he ran across an 1841 legal proceeding of Benjamin H. Reed, whose seed store needed a loan to survive bad debts. The proceeding had a page of legal jargon followed by a detailed stock inventory with 95 varieties of plants that Reed sold. Of those 95 varieties listed, 70 are still available today through common seed stores. The other 25 seeds, however, captured my attention because they offered the potential to expand both biodiversity for our farmers and flavor diversity for my food.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

written by

photography by

Rob Connoley

judd demaline

Beef cheek in pawpaw mole, with cast-iron charred Cowhorn okra, Bloody Butcher hominy and marigold Smoked walleye rillette with Saltenberger tomato relish Grandma Stout lima beans, curly endive panisse, ham water cloud

cowhorn okra

Saltenberger tomatoes

Grandma Stout lima beans

/ o c to be r 2 02 1

%PG

Our list of growers include some familiar farmers such as Eric and Crystal Stevens of La Vista CSA Farm in Godfrey, Illinois, as well as advanced hobbyists such as Stan Williams of Solanaceae Farm in Old Jamestown north of St. Louis. We also work with a handful of backyard gardeners willing to “just give it a try” such as Linda Workman, who became our largest okra source last year, growing Cowhorn okra, which we often served pan-seared with braised beef cheek. Months passed with only minor updates from the farmers, but when summer emerged, small harvests started to be delivered to the kitchen. The first was Oxheart cabbage (served directcoal cooked, basted with lard and dusted with sumac), followed by Earnstine Family cucumbers (made into bread and butter pickles, cooked until caramelized and served with venison pâté and watermelon jelly). There were also some failures, such as a flat white turnip that grew rotted and the Prussian Blue peas in my personal garden that just never took off. But there were also exciting surprises, including a number of farmers who grew salsify – a cold-weather crop known to the area in the 1840s but not seen in probably 100 years. Similar in looks to parsnip, raw salsify is firm and starchy, but cooked, it takes on a consistency similar to cooked carrot. We sear the outside, roast it with hard cider and serve it with foraged mushrooms, apricot and venison powder, topped with fried and salted salsify peelings that exemplify our commitment to zero-waste practices. My style of cooking thrives on projects like this. We don’t use recipes and rarely repeat dishes. I train my staff to cook by the inspiration of the ingredient and not by preconceived notions of how an ingredient should be used. We think in terms of texture, temperature, flavor and technique, but not tradition. If a farmer brings us only a small basket of vegetables, which was often the case in our first season of harvests, that vegetable inspires the course even if only for one night. In my admitted naïveté, I didn’t realize seed stores existed back in the early- to mid-19th century; I assumed seeds were gathered from previous crops, neighbors or maybe a general store, but the idea of a specialty store never occurred to me. And yet, scrolling through old city directories, there turned out to be a number of seed stores. How did these stores source their seeds? Who was the first seed store in the region? What informal seed saving was happening back at that time, and is it only due to nostalgia that we moderns seek out these old-time varieties, or was something comparable happening back in 1841 as they looked to their own ancestors? This seed project launched during the COVID-19 pandemic and is even more important now than if it had happened at any other time. As our food system showed its fragility with shortages of many grocery staples, the pandemic encouraged people across the country to start growing their own food, nudging many home gardeners to till their manicured lawns and plant their own seeds with more interest than in the past. The pandemic emphasized what many of us have preached for years – that our local farmers, ranchers and producers are essential and deserve our support. I willingly pay a bit more for my produce when I know my farmer and I am confident that they sustainably grow their food for us. As we enter our second growing season, we have a handful more growers and a few more seeds added to our list. Kauth and Seed Savers Exchange have increased their commitment to the project with more seeds, such as the Grandma Stout spotted lima bean (on our current menu with curly endive panisse, ham water cloud and acorn-miso-oat crunch), and include us in educational efforts with other seed collectors. With the help of Tosha Phonix, a St. Louis-based community activist and the food justice director of EVOLVE (Elevating Voices of Leaders Vying for Equity), the project has also spun off to explore the role of descendants of freed slaves and to include African American growers in St. Louis in our efforts. All of this launched because of the curiosity of one archivist brushing the dust off of an 1841 city ledger. Buthold’s curiosity has led Bulrush to preserve a forgotten and neglected history. Through seed history research, we attempt to breathe new life into a cuisine and an ecosystem. The future impact of this project will be measured by seasons and harvests and, most importantly, the experiences of diners enjoying a meal with a side of history. But for now, all I want is more seeds, more obscurity and more history.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 1

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