November 2019 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

november 2019

55

to brighten your holiday table

sweet spuds 5 sweet potato recipes that break from the mold on p. 60

from ozark forest mushrooms

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HOLIDAY CENTRAL AT KPPO Join the festivities and make KPPO your lunch, dinner, brunch, and happy hour spot all season. Call for reservations today!

free pasta with gift cards Starting November 1, receive a pound of our fresh, made-from-scratch pasta with every gift card purchase of $50 or more.

HOLIDAY CATERING Portions serve 8-10 people. For inquiries on catering and special events, please call or email katiescustomerservice@gmail.com.

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

november

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 11 contributors

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

For advertising inquiries, please contact:

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen fact checker Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger Contributing Writers

Julia Calleo, Corin Cesaric, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Gallagher, Jeremy Goldmeier, Juliana Goodwin, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Liz Miller, Justin Phelps, Lillian Stone, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

Columbia, Missouri, Photographer “The beauty of Amanda Elliott’s sweet potato dishes – besides looking incredible for the camera – is her choice of straightforward ingredients and techniques. If you are looking to add something new to your holiday table, you can’t go wrong with any of these. I can confirm

FEAST TV

that two very picky eaters, at five and two years

producer: Catherine Neville

old, tried the soup and Spanish tortilla topped

production partner: Tybee Studios

with pimentón aïoli, then promptly asked for a

Contact Us

some time with the family." (Sweet Spuds, p. 60)

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Rose Hansen

aaron ottis

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

second serving. Make one, have a seat and enjoy

Jeremy Goldmeier Kansas City, Writer

"I’ve dabbled in pie-making, but learning at the feet of some genuine pie masters for this month’s Crash Course was a total treat. While the story features three recipes for classic pie filling, my all-time favorite pie that I created myself was a poached pear pie with mascarpone filling and a rosemary-shortbread crust. I ran out to the grocery store in a snowstorm to get eggs for the recipe, nearly stranding my car in a snowbank in the process.

But that pie was totally worth it." (Crash Course, p. 44)

ART

madison sanders

Art Director

St. Louis, Photographer

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

"When Feast asked me to photograph Festus' Main

production designer

Street, I was thrilled. There has always been something

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com

so welcoming about Festus, but recently it's been getting

Contributing Photographers

a lot of new businesses and has turned into a charming place that I love to visit time and time again. I had the

Brandon Alms, Chris Bauer, Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Dean Groover, Travis Howard, Anne Mauldin, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Madison Sanders, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Jessica White, Brad Zweerink Contributing illustrator

Katie Lukes

pleasure of highlighting restaurants that have been around since the 1960s as well as new establishments that have found their place in the mix. You feel like family in these businesses on Main Street. Not to mention, it's the first place I tasted a pickle split – this one was from Pine Mountain Country Coffee House and has become my new favorite dessert." (Hot Blocks, p. 22) Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

jessica Vaughn Martin Columbia, Missouri, Writer

"As a former FFA member and an avid fan of Queer Eye, it was a treat to chat with farmer and agvocate Matt Moreland about his Fab Five transformation. Moreland’s promotion of consumer education through Red Barn Ranch’s agritourism was apparent in the show, and even more so in person. It was inspiring to hear how the crossover of agriculture and pop culture gave

on the cover Sweet potato tortilla with pimentón aïoli by Aaron Ottis table of contents Go Out: Grown Up Garlic Noodles from The Last Kitchen by Mabel Suen; Stay In: Apples to Aperol punch by Starboard & Port Creative; Features: Assortment of shiitake and oyster mushrooms from Ozark Forest Mushrooms by Tessa Cooper

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him a global audience with which to share his knowledge. My favorite part, though: Snagging that amazing pumpkin snickerdoodle recipe.

(Thanks a million, Kelly!)" (One on One, p. 17)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 14 /

Features

/ 32 /

/ 13 / DINE & DRINK

The Hepcat, The Last Kitchen, B&B Bagel Co., Los

Alamos Cocina, Team Taco, Akar, Sayachi

/ 29 / THE DISH

Neighbor's Mill Bakery & CafĂŠ's turkey sandwich with cranberry mustard

/ 16 / On TREND

Oat milk

/ 30 / one ingredient 3 ways Cranberries

/ 17 / one on one

Matt Moreland of Red Barn Ranch

/ 32 / the mix

Apples to Aperol punch

/ 18 / SHOP HERE

The Spice Agent

/ 34 / MIDWEST MADE Jam

/ 20 / one on one

Christian Ethridge of Taco Circus

/ 36 / mystery shopper

Grano Arso

/ 22 / HOT BLOCKS

Festus Main Street

/ 38 / sugar Rush

Chocolate-squash scones with espresso-maple glaze

/ 24 / one on one

Joe Montanez and Ryan Westeren of The Whisk(e)y Fix / 26 / HOMETOWN HITS

Lambert's Cafe, Cooky's Cafe, Allie Mae's Bakery

/ 40 / healthy appetite

Creamy cabbage and onion rolls / 41 / one on one

David and Ann Buehler of Elder Farms / 42 / quick fix

Ginger-pear soup / 43 / culinary library

Jan Knobel of The Upper Crust Pie Bakery / 44 / crash course

Easy as pie

/ 66 /

55

festive greens

60

sweet spuds

66

holy shiitake

71

Fresh flavor and pops of color brighten an otherwise beige Thanksgiving tablescape with five seasonally inspired salad recipes

Sweet potatoes break from the mold in these five original recipes

Nicola Macpherson shares her shiitake and oyster varieties at Ozark Forest Mushrooms

last course Wrap up your holiday meal with these decadent dessert recipes

In Every Issue

/ 6 / from the PUBLISHER

Break with tradition / 8 / events / 10 / feast tv

Best of: Favorite visits / 74 / back burner / nov e mbe r 2 019

5

Letter

from the

Publisher

If you’re looking for Turkey Day recipe inspiration, just head to feastmagazine.com/thanksgiving to search our extensive archive full of can’t-fail recipes.

S

hould we put a turkey on the cover?

This is the question that just about every

curry crust. Even our first Thanksgiving issue in 2010

potato-sage rolls. And because you should never skip

had can’t-miss recipes: We asked a bunch of chefs to

dessert this time of year, Julia Calleo offers up a range

create dishes for people who want to get creative in

of sweet seasonal treats in Last Course (p. 71).

food-magazine editor brings up when planning their

the kitchen and they did not disappoint. I remember

November issue. Every. Single. Year. Should we put

particularly Byron Grant’s sweet potato-pecan flan,

Personally, I’m still mulling over exactly what to make

a big, beautiful, bronzed bird on the cover, or should

Clara Moore’s black walnut stuffing with figs and

for what is, truly, my favorite holiday. Should I brine my

we go in a different direction and offer our readers

bacon and Carolyn Downs’ deliciously simple chess pie.

turkey this year? Maybe do a dried fruit-nut stuffing?

something new, something that breaks with tradition?

Play around with some fun pie recipes? I’m still All of those gems live on our website and Kasey

undecided, and you might be too. But no matter what

When the editorial team here at Feast sat down to plan

Carlson, our intrepid assistant editor, has pulled every

you put on your holiday table this year, there is much to

our annual ode to Thanksgiving, we talked through

Thanksgiving-related recipe we’ve published into a

be thankful for. From the team here at Feast to all of

how to allow this year’s Turkey Day issue to be a bit

gallery so you can browse through them for inspiration

you at home, we wish you a wonderful – and flavorful –

surprising, while still honoring the tried-and-true.

while planning this year’s feast.

Thanksgiving.

Over the past decade, we’ve published a host of

And, because we did decide to leave the turkey-and-

fantastic Thanksgiving recipes. In 2017, Shannon

stuffing classics off the table this month, so to speak,

Weber, one of our stalwart recipe developers, offered

we dedicated our November features to recipes that

up her Total Turkey Tutorial with instructions on

we hope will expand your holiday cooking repertoire.

buying, brining and roasting your bird, making perfect

Shannon Weber created five winter salads to lend a

gravy and even making stock from the leftover

bit of freshness to your holiday table. From fennel and

carcass. In 2016, pastry chef extraordinaire Natasha

fig to beet and burrata, I’m sure you’ll fall for a new

Goellner shared nontraditional pumpkin pie recipes

favorite on p.55. Amanda Elliott offers a sweet

such as chocolate-pumpkin pie with cinnamon and

potato primer on p. 60, with recipes for dishes such as

Catherine Neville

cayenne and a pumpkin-coconut cream pie with a

poblano-sweet potato soup and pillowy sweet

publisher@feastmagazine.com

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Until next time,

Program Features:

(What you can expect when opening a black Frank J Kuna box)

1855 upper 2/3rds Choice Angus & Prime Program Cattle sourced from upper Midwestern farms, 40 day aged

Prairie Fresh Prime Pork A much more flavorful and juicy cut of pork

Products are processed using state te of the art equipment Ensuring a much more consistent product and weight

Quality product cut by y a team of experienced meat mea cutters Product trimmed to exact specifications

Visit:

kunafoodservice.com

(618)-286-4000 / nov e mbe r 2 019

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Fr om co ok in g cl as se s to w in e ta st in gs , pl an th e m on th s ah ea d w it h fe as t.

CALENDAR

mo | 10/26

STL | 11/17

Hand Picked Wine Club Event Spooktacular Chili Cook-Off

Fallon’s First Friendsgiving

Sat., Oct. 26, 12 to 4pm; Edg-Clif Winery, 10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, Missouri; 573.438.4741; edg-clif.com/wine-club

Edg-Clif Hand Picked Wine Club hosts six events per year for members, including the Spooktacular Chili Cook-Off. Members and their guests get to judge the chili cook-off, while enjoying seasonal fun such as newly introduced Chardonel wine tastings, hayrides, seasonal craft beers and s’mores at the fire pits, alongside musical entertainment.

Members also take home a complimentary bottle of wine.

kc | 11/9 Dia de Arte Familiar en Español

Sun., Nov. 17, 2 to 5pm; Fallon’s Bar & Grill, 9200 Olive Blvd., Olivette, Missouri; $40 per ticket; eventbrite.com/e/fallonsfirst-friendsgiving-tickets-72254285513

It's one of the best times of the year! More than 17 breweries, distilleries and distributors will be doing tastings at Fallon's First Friendsgiving.

stl | 11/20 Schnucks Cooks: Ginger-Pear Soup Wed., Nov. 20, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

Sat., Nov. 9, 1 to 3pm; Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art, 4420 Warwick Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri; Free to attend; communications@kemperart.org; RSVP at kempermuseumarte-familiar-espanol.eventbrite.com

In this class, you’ll learn wonderful ways to use pears while they’re in season. You’ll also learn how to supreme a citrus fruit for a next-level presentation.

¡Recorre el arte de Hew Locke y Angel Otero con un instructor hispanohablante, crea obras de arte con un artista local y disfruta de comida y música! Todo el evento, incluyendo la actividad de elaboración de arte, se presentará en español.

STL | 11/24

kc | 11/11 Cheese Tasting Collaboration Mon., Nov. 11, 6:30 to 8:30pm; Big Rip Brewing Co., 216 E. Ninth Ave., North Kansas City, Missouri; $40; greendirtfarm. com/event/cheese-tasting-collaboration-with-big-ripbrewing-company

Join Green Dirt Farm and Big Rip Brewing Co. for a cheese and beer pairing class at the brewery. This private event will take you on a delicious food adventure, where you will learn which cheeses and beers pair well together and how to delight friends and family with your own creative pairings at home.

Holiday Pop and Shop Sun., Nov 24, 11am to 3pm; Tickets from $15-35; The Four Seasons, 999 N. 2nd St., St. Louis, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/holiday-pop-shop-2019

Holiday Pop and Shop is your one-stop event for holiday gifts! Guests will enjoy live music, brunch tastings from area restaurants and shopping from 45-plus craft vendors.

kc | 12/14 Wine Oh! Sat., Dec. 14; Two sessions: 1 to 5pm and 6 to 10pm; Tickets from $45-55; KCI Expo Center, Grand Ambassador Ballroom, 11730 N. Ambassador Drive, Kansas City, Missouri; wineohkc.com

Save the date for Wine Oh! Two sessions will take place on Sat., Dec. 14 at the KCI Expo Center. Ticket price for Session 1 is $45 and Session 2 is $55.

mo | 11/16 Farm-to-Table Dinner Sat., Nov. 16, 6pm; The Cider House, 28708 S. State Highway 7, Garden City, Missouri; $69 per person, $79 with wine tasting package, reservations required; brownpapertickets.com/event/4334518

Have a culinary experience at the farm! Join The Cider House for a five-course dinner filled with locally sourced food prepared by chef Jim Tinkham. Guests will enjoy wine pairings by Aubrey Vineyards as well as live music.

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KC | 12/10- 12/21 Santa’s House Various dates and times Dec. 10 to Dec. 21; Main and Mill St., Festus, Missouri; Free, canned good donation accepted; cityoffestus.org/371/Santas-House---December-2019

Santa will be in the Santa House at the corner on Main and Mill to visit with children of all ages and their well-behaved, leashed pets. Visit and take your own pictures!

/ j a nu a ry 2 019

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episode: Favorite Visits

revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes!

Pan-Fried Ginger-Shrimp Dumplings with Dipping Sauce yields 48 dumplings

recipe by catherine neville

Ginger-Shrimp Dumplings ¾ pound raw shrimp, finely chopped ½ cup minced cabbage 1 tsp chile oil 2 Tbsp chopped cilantro 2 Tbsp minced ginger 1 Tbsp minced garlic 4 scallions, minced 3 Tbsp soy sauce ¼ cup, plus ¹⁄₈ cup, water, divided 48 dumpling wrappers vegetable oil

.

Dipping Sauce (Yields ¼ cup) 2 Tbsp soy sauce 2 Tbsp rice vinegar sugar, to taste chile oil, to taste sesame oil, to taste / preparation - ginger- shrimp dumplings / Stir shrimp, cabbage, chile oil, cilantro, ginger, garlic and scallions into soy sauce and ¼ cup water.

To fill wrappers, have a small bowl of water nearby; place one wrapper on a dry surface and dab edges with water. Add a rounded teaspoon of filling to the center, fold and seal. (Your dumplings can take a number of shapes.)

Set on a plate and cover with a damp paper towel or cloth. Repeat with remaining dumpling wrappers.

In the “Favorite Visits” episode of Feast TV’s “best of” season, host Cat Neville revisits some of her favorite spots. First, in St. Joseph, Missouri, a wood-fired oven turns out perfectly blistered Neapolitan pies at Il Lazzarone. Then, at Gordon’s Stop Light Drive In on a corner in Crystal City, Missouri, burgers have been smashed and served up with a smile since the 1940s. Finally, in St. Robert, Missouri, Cafe Korea gives the globe-trotting military folks stationed nearby an authentic taste of Seoul. The episode wraps up in Cat’s kitchen, where she shows you how easy it is to make pan-fried dumplings at home.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat a couple tablespoons of oil on medium-high heat. Add 12 dumplings and cook, approximately 2 minutes, until bottoms are lightly browned and most of the oil has been absorbed. Add ¹⁄₈ cup water to skillet and cover. Lower heat and steam, 3 minutes. Uncover; if the bottoms aren’t nice and brown, continue to cook until they are and all of the water has evaporated. Repeat with remaining dumplings (12 at a time), adding oil and water with each batch. / preparation - dipping sauce / Mix soy sauce and vinegar together. Add sugar, chile oil and sesame oil to taste. Serve with dumplings.

check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:

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T

he resurgence of the wild turkey in Missouri during the past 45 years has rekindled interest in this splendid bird. Today, Missouri turkey hunters can pursue turkeys for three weeks in the spring and two weeks during the fall and archers can add almost another three months during the fall archery season. To learn more about turkey hunting in Missouri visit mdc.mo.gov/hunting.

Discover

Nature

SHARPEN YOUR SHOT AT ONE OF OUR STAFFED SHOOTING RANGES. 1 Andy Dalton – Ash Grove mdc.mo.gov/andydalton

2 Lake City – Buckner

mdc.mo.gov/lakecity

3 Jay Henges – High Ridge

4

2

5

mdc.mo.gov/hengesrange

4 Parma Woods – Parkville

3

1

mdc.mo.gov/parmawoods

5 August A. Busch – Weldon Spring mdc.mo.gov/buschrange

wild-turkey muffuletta sandwiches

1 2 3 4 5

Andy Dalton Lake City Jay Henges Parma Woods August A. Busch

Serves 4

Relish ¾ cup chopped red onion ½ cup chopped sweet red pepper 1 stalk celery, chopped ½ cup calamata olives, pitted ½ cup drained small Spanish pimiento-stuffed green olives ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons drained capers 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 12 fresh basil leaves, roughly sliced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper

Sandwich 1 24-inch-long French or sourdough baguette, split lengthwise 12 ounces cooked wild turkey breast, sliced 4 ounces Jarlsberg or good Swiss cheese, sliced Tomato slices (optional) Combine relish ingredients in food processor and chop finely. Add pepper to taste. Transfer to bowl. Let stand 1 hour at room temperature.

Spread half of muffuletta relish over each cut side of bread. Place turkey and cheese on bottom half of bread. Top with tomato slices.

Cover with top half of bread. Cut diagonally into 4 sandwiches.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com. / j a nu a ry 2 019

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Go Out DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

Tomato water with Moletto gin, tomato-basil shrub and Peychaud's bitters

â–Ş SPRINGFIELD, MO.

The Hepcat story and photography by Tessa Cooper

A new jazz club in Springfield, Missouri, invites you in for dinner and live music. At The Hepcat, the kitchen is open late and the booze is always flowing. Chef Dustin Fox learned to cook in his grandmother's kitchen, which is why most of his dishes are reminiscent of home-cooked comfort food, such as the fried olives, smoky fried chicken and double smash burger. Try the house Old Fashioned, with unexpected flavors of applejack, Mellow Corn whiskey and lime-peel simple syrup, or the Tomato Water, with Moletto gin, tomato-basil shrub and Peychaud's bitters.

220 S. Campbell Ave., Springfield, Missouri, thehepcat.com

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

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DINE & DRINK

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ON TREND

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SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

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HOMETOWN HITS

▼ ST. LOUIS

THE LAST KITCHEN Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Under the direction of chef Evy Swoboda, The Last Kitchen at The Last Hotel recently debuted in downtown St. Louis. To develop the menu, Swoboda drew inspiration from a tour of five Mississippi River cities, endeavoring to create a complete St. Louis experience that incorporates the many different influences that converge in the Gateway to the West. With an in-house butcher and seasonally influenced dishes, The Last Kitchen boasts boudin toasted ravioli with wild boar and rice sausage, as well as BuffaLOU Chicken Cracklin Nachos and housemade garlic noodles with olive oil, fermented black garlic, chile flakes and Parmesan. Pair your meal with one of the bar’s pre-Prohibition-inspired cocktails, such as the Red Snapper with StilL 630 Two-Step Gin made exclusively for The Last Kitchen, hot sauce, tomato juice, lemon and Worcestershire sauce.

1501 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, thelasthotelstl.com/st-louis-restaurants ◥ COLUMBIA, MO.

B&B Bagel Co. Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by aaron ottis

One of the only places in Columbia, Missouri, to serve made-from-scratch boiled and baked bagels, B&B Bagel Co. recently opened a second location downtown. The new shop has a smaller footprint and half the menu items – it focuses more on grab-and-go favorites such as the Egg’wich – but it’s filled with the same friendly spirit that patrons have come to love.

904 Elm St., Suite 100, Columbia, Missouri, bbbagel.com

▶ KANSAS CITY

Los Alamos Cocina written by jenny vergara

fish fried coayt po'b

photography by ann millington

After 18 years in the same location, Los Alamos Market y Cocina has undergone quite the transformation. Owner Agustin “Gus” Juarez; his wife, Blanca; and their son, Benito, have done away with the remains of the original market. Now simply known as Los Alamos Cocina, the family business finally feels like a restaurant. Specializing in traditional Mexican platters, it also serves pozole, a traditional Mexican stew made with hominy and pork, and menudo, a soup made with beef tripe in a red chile pepper broth.

Look for a small chalkboard outside listing Juarez’s specials. May that – and his colorful array of piñatas – be all the invitation you need to go inside.

1667 Summit St., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/Los-Alamos-Market-yCocina-1404863913111443

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▶ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Team Taco Story and photography by tessa cooper

As temperatures drop, teleport to warmer climates at Springfield’s ruby red gem, Team Taco, located in the historic Rountree neighborhood. First-time visitors can sample the street tacos to choose their favorite, or stick to nachos, guacamole and agave-forward spirits and cocktails. The tacos are stuffed with grilled chicken, smoked pork belly, braised beef brisket and ground beef, but vegetarians, fear not: Team Taco also serves a veggie taco topped with roasted carrots and zucchini in a verde sauce, plus onion, Cotija cheese and cilantro.

1454 E. Cherry St., Springfield, Missouri, teamtacosgf.com

▼ CLAYTON, MO.

Akar Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Clayton, Missouri, has a new destination for “flex-casual” comfort food rooted in Asian cuisine.

The idea behind Akar’s Malaysian-inflected dishes is to showcase what executive chef and owner Bernie Lee likes to cook and eat, which is ultimately influenced by memories from his motherland and his travel experiences. Lee’s seasonal menu features many vegan and gluten-free dishes, including a modern take on mapo tofu with mushroom “mincemeat,” brown rice and quinoa mix, spicy Sichuan pepper and herbs. Popular dinner options include the Cornish hen with sticky rice, mushroom stuffing, market greens and ginger-scallion jam and the short ribs with pea mash and burnt carrot in a sambal demi-glace.

From the bar, choose a specialty cocktail such as the Taiyo with Haku Japanese vodka, mandarin juice, lime juice and sugar.

7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, akarstl.com

▲ KANSAS CITY

Sayachi Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by angela bond

Chef Carlos Falcon and his wife and managing partner, Sayaka Gushi Falcon, made a splash in Kansas City with their two Latin seafood spots, Jarocho and Jarocho South.

Now, they have turned their attention to the east with the opening of Sayachi, which serves sushi and traditional Japanese comfort food in Brookside. Guests can choose from two distinct dining experiences: the omakase bar or the main dining room. The omakase bar seats eight,

by reservation only, and is a collaboration of Falcon and sushi chef Ciro Ortega, who has been in the industry for 17 years and previously worked as head sushi chef at Kona Grill. It includes multiple courses of small plates followed by 12 nigiri and dessert. The rest of the restaurant offers the same high-quality fish prepared as maki, sashimi and nigiri, in addition to other classic Japanese dishes. The bar program is headed by Japan native Mari Matsumoto, whose cocktails feature intriguing ingredients, such as ginger caviar, daikon radish and black sesame seed syrup.

6322 Brookside Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/sayachikc / nov e mbe r 2 019

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DINE & DRINK

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ON TREND

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SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

The oat milk takeover happened almost overnight.

One day, we were ordering coffee, choosing from the usual litany of milk substitutes – soy, almond, coconut – and the next, not only was oat milk added to the lineup, it was given a starring role.

What’s behind the oat milk craze, and why is it so good in coffee?

Three local shops clue us in. -Natalie Gallagher

▪ KANSAS CITY Since opening its first of two locations in December 2017, Made in KC Cafe has offered oat milk as the only option for non-dairy milk. Oat milk has been successful, explains co-founder Keith Bradley, because it steams well and blends nicely with espresso, behaving similarly to dairy milk. Every weekend, Made in KC Cafe features the Café au Oui, a cereal-milk latte. “We always make two flavors – one with cow’s milk and the other with oat milk [sourced from Minor Figures, a leading brand in the U.K. coffee world] ,” says Bradley. He recommends the Golden Grahams latte: “The oat milk brings out the unique graham cracker flavor, which tastes great warm; although we offer them iced, as well,” he says. “Other crowd-pleasers are the Lucky Charms latte and the Cocoa Puffs latte.”

pictured left to right:

, Cocoa Puffs

iced latte , Golden Grahams latte , Lucky Charms Cereal Milk Steamer photo by anna petrow

multiple locations, mikccafe.com ST. LOUIS

SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Kitchen House Coffee began offering housemade oat milk this past January. The process to make the trendy plant-based milk is labor-intensive: Bob’s Red Mill brand oats are soaked, then pulverized in a specialized blender before the milk is strained and bottled for use.

But it’s worth the extra effort. “We’ve received overwhelmingly positive feedback on our oat milk,” says owner Paul Whitsitt. “One barista recommends it for tea lattes because its earthy, slightly sweet flavor pairs particularly well with matcha and turmeric.”

From the get-go, Able Coffee & Provisions owner Rance Loftsgard was set on making oat milk in-house. His recipe uses a 2:1 water-oat ratio; the oats are soaked overnight, vanilla and cinnamon are added the next morning and then it all goes in a high-powered blender before being strained through a sieve. “Adding the vanilla and cinnamon intensifies the sweetness [of the oat milk] and makes it more complex and palatable,” says Loftsgard. This winter, expect a few specialty coffee drinks spotlighting oat milk here.

multiple locations, kitchenhousecoffee.com

3049 S. Fremont Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/ablecoffee

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

HARRISONVILLE, MO.

with Matt Moreland / owner, Red Barn Ranch

Kelly's Pumpkin

Snickerdoodles

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by zach bauman

Moreland’s girlfriend, Kelly Erdman, made pumpkin snickerdoodles for the Fab Five’s arrival. They made Queer Eye’s grooming expert, Jonathan Van Ness, scream in delight – so we had to get the recipe.

Red Barn Ranch in Harrisonville, Missouri, is a wellspring of agricultural education and recreation, known for its specialty pumpkin patch, silo slide and recent TV fame. The ranch is the brainchild of owner Matt Moreland, a fourth-generation Missouri farmer and agriculture advocate. Moreland is also the Fab Five’s latest metamorphosis – he appeared in the season four finale of Queer Eye, where the quintet spent a week helping him begin a new chapter for himself and his farm after his divorce and the decision to sell his family’s dairy herd. After hosting his first farm-to-table dinner on Queer Eye (including a course he prepared with the show’s food and wine expert, Antoni Porowski), Moreland has big plans for the future of Red Barn Ranch, including year-round events, regular farm-to-table dinners, an on-site farmers’ market, a winery, a bed and breakfast and an extended farm-visit season.

How do you envision future farm-to-table dinners at Red Barn Ranch? I try really hard not to copycat anything; every idea I have, I try to make unique. [For example], I want to serve chicken-fried steak and mashed potatoes with mismatched tableware in a 100-year-old barn, where the conversation is more important than the food and décor. The food will still be good; my mom and my aunt worked for the dairy and coincidentally, they’re really good cooks. We’ll serve food from a real farmer’s wife on a real farm and talk about what’s going on at Red Barn Ranch, what season we’re in and stuff like that.

Tell us about the pumpkin patch. I grow more than 30 varieties of pumpkins – 34 this year to be exact. I didn't know that much about pumpkins when I started growing them, but I’ve learned a lot over the years. My favorite variety is the “One Too Many,” a white pumpkin with red veins that looks like a bloodshot eyeball. Originally, I ordered it by accident. The lady [from the seed catalogue] said, “Do you have everything you need?” and I said, “I probably have one too many.” She said, “No, you don’t have that one yet.” I had no idea what she was talking about until it came in the mail.

What was it like cooking the butternut squash soup with Antoni Porowski? It was a little intimidating: He’s as comfortable in the kitchen as I am on a tractor. I don’t feel completely out of place in the kitchen, but I’m not anywhere close to his level … I didn’t want to get something wrong and look silly. But once we got into it, it was really fun. I don’t think I’d ever made soup before that, but if I did, I guarantee that it had meat in it. So when he told me what we were making, I was like, “Where’s the meat? This isn’t going to be good at all!” But honestly, that was the best soup I’ve ever had. Now I have family members that say, “How about you don’t buy me anything, you just make me that soup?”

You said you didn’t know what Instagram was four days before the show. How has Queer Eye and social media impacted the reach of your agricultural knowledge? I’m not a wizard at it by any means, but I have [approximately] 16,000 followers because of the TV show. One day, I posted a video of me bailing hay; it got more than 4,000 views and a light bulb went off: If I take a few seconds to film myself doing what I normally do and post it, I can engage with people I never would have been able to educate in any other way.

23111 S. Jefferson Parkway, Harrisonville, Missouri, redbarnranch.farm

yields approximately 36 cookies

1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, softened

1¼ cup sugar, divided

¾ cup brown sugar, packed

1 egg yolk

¾ cup canned pumpkin purée

2 tsp vanilla 3¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 3½ tsp cornstarch

2 tsp cream of tartar

1 tsp baking soda

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

4 tsp cinnamon, divided

½ tsp nutmeg

¼ tsp allspice

½ tsp ginger / preparation / Add butter, 1 cup sugar and brown sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer; mix until combined. Add egg yolk; mix until incorporated. Add pumpkin and vanilla; mix until combined, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. In a small bowl, combine dry ingredients, using only 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Add to batter and mix to combine, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Refrigerate batter for at least 30 minutes, long enough for dough to set.

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, combine ¼ cup sugar and 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Remove dough from refrigerator; it should be cool and not sticky. Equally divide dough into approximately 36 balls (use a cookie scoop, scrape it flat as you pull it out of the bowl and then squish two scoops together to form each ball). Roll each ball in cinnamon-sugar mixture, then place on a nonstick baking sheet, leaving space between. Pat each ball into more of a disc shape. Bake 11 to 13 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Enjoy with a cold glass of milk or your favorite coffee. / nov e mbe r 2 019

17

DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

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SHOP HERE

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HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

◀ BRANSON, MO.

The Spice Agent Written by Juliana Goodwin / photography by travis howard

Passionate about food, St. Louis native Chris Poulos opened The Spice Agent in downtown Branson, Missouri, in 2011. Inspired by his favorite high-end specialty grocer in Chicago, mingling aromas fill Poulos’ store, where the walls are lined with richly colored jars and packets of spices.

Poulos also makes his own rubs, dry brines and spice blends. He sells 25 types of sea salt (including truffle- and bacon-flavored) and more than 70 seasonings and custom blends, alongside more than 100 spices. Loose-leaf tea and an array of flavored honeys, such as pumpkin spice and habanero, are also sold at The Spice Agent. Use a drizzle of the habanero-flavored honey to add a spicy-sweet kick to glazed carrots – Poulos is always happy to offer recipe suggestions for his products.

212 S. Commercial St., Branson, Missouri, thespiceagent.com

3 Products from The Spice Agent to flavor Your Thanksgiving Meals

Classic Poultry Rub

Porcini Mushroom Salt

Chocolate Almond Honey

Made in-house, this poultry rub contains no salt, so you can

Skip plain table salt and jazz up traditional

Chocolaty and almondy, with an extra hint of raspberry flavor, this

control the sodium levels in your meal. For Thanksgiving, Poulos

mashed potatoes with porcini mushroom

delectable honey needs a seat at the table. Use it in a pecan pie

recommends salting the cavity of the bird, rubbing unsalted

salt. This earthy salt has strong notes of

recipe instead of corn syrup or add a dash to your morning coffee

butter, poultry rub and salt under the skin and adding poultry rub

mushroom and will almost imitate the flavor

as an alternative for sugar. It’s a healthier way to add sweetness

and salt to the exterior. Add a few wedges of orange, lemon and

of gravy – it’s a good option for vegans who

to your favorite things. If you’re watching your waistline, skip

lime to the cavity, as well, and then roast as usual.

want more depth to their taters.

traditional desserts and dip fresh berries straight in it.

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

MAKE THIS HOLIDAY A

LEGENDARY CELEBRATION

What began as Imperial Pumpkin Beer we distilled into whiskey then aged this refined spirit in a new barrel for a taste that is sure to impress your guests.

P UMPKINS , G OURDS , S QUASH , & I NDIAN C ORN

LOCAL I AUTHENTIC I FAM ILY www.oletyme.com

314.436.5010

SERVING RESTAURANTS since 1973

THE FALL FLING 11/2 oz. Headless Horseman Whiskey 1/2 oz. walnut liquor 1/2 oz. cranberry juice 1/4 oz. fresh lime juice 3 dashes cinnamon & fig bitters Shake and serve up with a fresh orange peel squeeze for garnish.

1000 S 4th St. • 314.513.2275 • StilL630.com / nov e mbe r 2 019

19

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

st. louis

with Christian Ethridge / founder and co-owner, Taco Circus

must-try dishes at

taco circus

Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Taco Circus is back with classic guilty pleasures and flashy high-end ingredients in a new and improved locale. St. Louis’ go-to spot for Austin-style Tex-Mex, which originally debuted in the Bevo neighborhood in 2015, moved to The Hill neighborhood in September, shifting its focus from fast-casual taqueria to full-service dining extravaganza. With an expanded comfort food menu and brand-new bar program, co-owner Christian Ethridge invites guests to sit and stay awhile. The plates he offers are as vibrant as the restaurant’s psychedelic décor comprised of his colorful collectibles. The Texas native’s concept demonstrates hospitality from a Mexican-American perspective, complete with the handmade tortillas he grew up eating with his family.

flight of salsas

Perfect for spicy food-lovers, Taco Circus’ flight of salsas presents four different varieties freshly prepared by the kitchen each day.

the mexican flag burrito

To make this burrito, Taco Circus stuffs a 12-inch tortilla with your choice of chicken, pork steak, ground beef, Match Meat picadillo, brisket, skirt steak or al pastor. It’s smothered in queso blanco, salsa verde and salsa roja and served with rice and pinto or refried beans on a bed of chips.

What inspired you to move to a new space? The looming goal of expansion and a more centralized location existed almost immediately after opening the first Taco Circus. When Sean [Baltzell] approached me with his vision for this location, it seemed like a really good fit: the patio, the neighborhood – [The Hill] is such a culinary destination – and a great creative team that works very hard and knows how to party. The weekends were great, but we wanted to be able to serve a weekday lunch, as well as have latenight service. This brings together the food and drink aspects that Taco Circus always wanted to have.

What’s changed in the new space? The other spot was an eat-itand-beat-it type of place. At this one, you can settle in, really get comfortable and make a nice evening of it. With more cooks in the kitchen comes more eyes in terms of consistency and execution, and we have more Mexican-American staff, apart from myself, from different areas. So now we are bringing regionalism into the fold,

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which is very much at the core of Tex-Mex: Take the best aspects of regional Mexican cuisine and fold it into comfort food. One of the things we’re really looking forward to is highlighting all of our cooks’ favorite dishes with a comfort food slant.

How does this restaurant’s menu differ from the original’s?

The original Taco Circus was a counter-service taqueria strictly serving perfectly executed proteins. At the new location, we’ll continue to focus on the perfect execution of those proteins while incorporating more sit-down Tex-Mex combo plates. We can take care of vegetarians now, too; before, we just didn’t have the volume to justify such an expansive vegetarian menu. We’re also making our own corn and flour tortillas, which is a huge deal because freshly made, pillowy tortillas are unsurpassed. My family made flour tortillas from scratch every day. I’m happy to continue that tradition.

4940 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, tacocircus.com

willie nelson

One of many extra-large “Kingshighway Tacos,” it’s served à la carte on a flour tortilla with skirt steak and Monterey Jack.

/ j a nu a ry 2 019

21

DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

Main Street

/

HOMETOWN HITS

1.

Festus, MO. For a town of 12,000 people, Festus, Missouri, has a surprisingly broad range of dining and drinking options, from long-standing classics to brand-new sensations that opened during the recent revitalization of the city’s Main Street. Forty minutes from St. Louis, these five places are worth the drive. -Corin Cesaric

1. Petit Paree Restaurant and Lounge An elegant restaurant that retains a relaxed atmosphere, Petit Paree is a steadfast feature on the block. Open for more than 50 years, it’s known for its wine and charbroiled steaks – think tenderloin, filet mignon and New York strip – but also serves seasonal seafood, such as fried diver sea scallops. The restaurant and lounge draw people from all over Missouri to taste the fare, paired with creative cocktails from the bar.

228 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, petitpareerestaurant.com

2. The Brick Bistro & Brew There’s a lot housed in this small space: a restaurant, coffeehouse, pizza parlor and bar, which collectively serve a diverse menu of everything from wings to tacos and cocktails to coffee from St. Louis-based Mississippi Mud Coffee Roasters. It also boasts a housemade portabella mushroom burger served with caramelized onions and spicy aïoli and delicious pizza with an optional cauliflower crust. Locally owned and family-operated, The Brick Bistro & Brew has been open for a little more than a year. Check out its weekly specials, such as Taco ‘n’ Tequila Tuesdays.

218 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, thebrickbistroandbrew.com

3. The Corner Cup Micro Bakery

2 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, facebook.com/cornercupmicrobakery

Chris Gass, owner

Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In and Gordon’s Cheese Steaks 22

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A brewery, restaurant and taproom rolled into one, Main & Mill Brewing Co. quickly became one of Festus’ most popular spots when it debuted in 2015 – which could have something to do with the fact that it’s the first commercial brewery to open in Jefferson County in more than 120 years. The main floor consists of a bar and family-friendly dining room, while upstairs there’s a taproom and a covered deck. Main & Mill brews a range of styles, which appear on a swiftly rotating tap, so you’re sure to have new options every time you visit. In an effort to become a hub of community activity, the brewery also hosts fundraisers, concerts, trivia nights and its annual Street Fest event.

240 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, mainandmill.com

the it pl pickle s

3.

5. Pine Mountain Country Coffee House The coffee at Pine Mountain Country Coffee House is air-roasted in small batches for a clean, bright result: In the process, the beans are suspended in hot air and never touch the metal of the machine, which is where coffee can obtain an unpleasant burnt flavor. It collaborates with Park Avenue Coffee in St. Louis, whose air roaster is 91 percent more energy-efficient than a traditional drum roaster, allowing for an incredibly small carbon footprint.

That being said, this is so much more than a coffeehouse. In the mercantile shop, you’ll find housemade soaps, bath bombs, lotions, old-fashioned candy and other odds and ends, or step up to the counter for a pickle split (a riff on the classic banana split), handdipped ice cream in a nostalgically fragrant waffle cone or whipped cream-topped frappé.

4.

37 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, facebook.com/ pinemountaincountrycoffeehouse

The Brick Bistro & Brew

“I like The Brick; those guys are doing some good things. Their pizza is good – I like the barbecue pizza – and so are their Taco ‘n’ Tequila Tuesdays.”

photography by madison sanders

This sister-run bakery offers scones, muffins, cupcakes, cookies and pies, each made fresh daily, with the occasional gluten-free option as well. As the shop often runs out of tempting treats early, it’s best not to postpone your sugar fix. And if the heavenly smells and homey décor aren’t enough to make you stay, maybe the drinks from Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. will.

2.

4. Main & Mill Brewing Co.

BRING YOUR FAMILY

for a

delicious

HOLIDAY ADVENTURE! local small batch gifts

~

cheese and charcuterie boards ~ wine and cheese pairings ~ gourmet sandwiches

1099 Welt Street, Weston, MO 64098

GREENDIRTFARM.COM/CREAMERY / nov e mbe r 2 019

23

ONE ON ONE /

springfield, mo.

with Joe Montanez and Ryan Westeren / owners, The Whisk(e)y Fix

ONE on

Written by Tessa Cooper photography by pamela montanez

Whiskey for the people – that’s the motto Joe Montanez (pictured right) and Ryan Westeren of The Whisk(e)y Fix have adopted. Together, they host quarterly tasting events in Springfield, Missouri, and run an informative Instagram account (@thewhiskeyfix). With Montanez’s experience as a bartender at Good Spirits & Co. (which owns Scotch & Soda, The Golden Girl Rum Club and more) and Westeren’s years of research – talking to local bartenders and reading industry books and blogs – the two are a wealth of knowledge: Did you know the drink is spelled “whisky” when it hails from Scotland? Along with memorable tidbits such as this, you'll leave a tasting at The Whisk(e)y Fix with a warm buzz, or as Westeren calls it, “a Kentucky hug,” and the tools to identify and expand on the flavors found in whiskey.

Why did you start The Whisk(e)y Fix? Starting [The Whisk(e)y Fix] was something Ryan and I had been talking about for a while.

In January 2019, I made a career change, moving to the food and beverage industry, and all of a sudden I had more time to start investing in the idea. That's when we got serious and decided on the Instagram account – it really just grew from there. –Joe Montanez It was an outlet that both of us wanted. A good amount of people had already been asking us about whiskey; we want to give them information to walk away with, but instill curiosity in them at the same time. [The Whisk(e)y Fix] is also about eliminating the intimidation and pretentiousness surrounding whiskey and inspiring people to try new things. –Ryan Westeren

“This drink is a classic for us, especially during the holiday season. The smoked cinnamon

What can people learn from attending a tasting event? We want to combat misinformation with education, so that’s kind of how our events are laid out. We select a group of whiskeys that we want to walk people through. In the process, we educate them on things like what grains go into a specific bourbon, how long it was aged in the barrel and how much char the barrel had in it before the unaged whiskey was added. –J.M.

Follow @thewhiskeyfix on Instagram to further your whiskey education and to receive updates on tasting events.

Montanez and Westeren like Wild Turkey 101 for its higher rye content

and maple syrup add an incredible depth to the drink that makes it feel like fall. We love using Wild Turkey 101 in this recipe for a couple of reasons: The proof of the bourbon stands up to the dilution of the drink while its high rye content adds even more flavor.” –J.M.

They use maple syrup in place of simple syrup to add warmth and depth to this cocktail, which is especially welcome during colder months.

Can you describe the heart behind The Whisk(e)y Fix? Joe and I are both naturally community-driven. If I was going to give a reason why, it would be because I enjoy the bars of Springfield so much. I would drink here over anywhere else in the country; the selection and prices are unbeatable and you can try so much. –R.W. You can buy an expensive bottle of whiskey, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is going to be good, and you can have a really cheap bottle of whiskey and that doesn’t mean it is going to be bad. Whatever you're drinking, if you share it with someone, you're going to remember the time spent with that person more than what the whiskey tasted like.

That’s our passion. –J.M.

Smoked Cinnamon and Maple Old Fashioned

yields 1

1 small organic cinnamon stick

2 oz bourbon

¹⁄₈ oz pure organic maple syrup

4 dashes Angostura bitters ice

1 strip orange peel / preparation / Use a torch to burn the end of the cinnamon stick. Once

cinnamon has been scorched, place a double rocks glass over it while you build the rest of the cocktail.

Combine bourbon, maple syrup and bitters in a mixing glass; add ice and stir for 25 rotations. Lift glass off cinnamon and place a single large ice cube in the bottom. Strain the cocktail mixture into the smoked glass. To finish the drink, cut a large swath of orange peel, express the oils over the drink and rub the peel around the rim of the glass; drop the peel into the glass as garnish and sip.

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Christmas Open hOuse Thur. Nov. 14th 10am to 8pm Santa signing with Karen Didion

santa at the Barn

Sun. Nov. 24th 12pm to 4pm Bring your camera! Donate to the USO for photos with Mr. & Mrs. Claus.

Tue-Sat 10am to 5pm • Sun 12-4pm 1057 Hwy 79, St Peters, MO

(636) 278-4445

Oma's Barn HG

www.omasbarn.com

NOVEMBER 23 T H R O U G H

JANUARY 4 SUSHI ONLY

721 N NEW BALLAS RD. • CREVE COEUR, MO • 314-567-4478 100 PUBLIC WORKS DR. • CHESTERFIELD, MO • 636-530-1198 OISHISTL.COM

/ OISHISUSHISTEAKHOUSE

@OISHISTL

Closed Dec. 9, 24, and 25 Presented by

mobot.org/glow

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

25

DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ SIKESTON, MO.

Lambert’s Cafe

These three delicious destinations have won the hearts of local diners.

Eating at Lambert’s Cafe – “home of throwed rolls” – is practically a sport: To get a hot roll, you have to snatch it from the air as it sails across the vast dining room. The restaurant opened in 1942, but the tradition of “throwed rolls” came about on a busy night in 1976, when the son of founders Earl and Agnes Lambert resorted to throwing a roll at a customer instead of walking it to the table. As if to prepare you for the eating Olympics, the portions are huge and include any or all of its “pass arounds” – fried okra, black-eyed peas, macaroni and tomato, apple butter and more are all spooned right onto your plate. Take as much as you want: Lambert’s aims to please.

WRITTEN BY Juliana Goodwin

2305 E. Malone Ave., Sikeston, Missouri, throwedrolls.com/sikestonmenu photo by Claudia Thompson

▲ GOLDEN CITY, MO.

Cooky’s Cafe Behind a glass case lined with pies, smiling faces greet customers from the open-concept kitchen at Cooky’s Cafe. The restaurant opened in 1942 and has been bustling ever since; people flock from all over to get their hands on the flavors they crave, such as chocolate meringue, coconut cream and the old-fashioned butterscotch meringue, which tastes like a rich caramel pie and has garnered praise from the Food Network. Pie is the star of the show at Cooky’s, but don’t overlook the regular menu.

The best-selling fried chicken is delicious, as well as the slow-cooked brisket and the shaved-to-order smoked ham sandwich. Whatever you’re in for, remember the eatery is cash or check only.

519 Main St., Golden City, Missouri, facebook.com/Cookys-Cafe-173138529086 photo courtesy of cooky's cafe

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◀ STRAFFORD, MO.

Allie Mae’s Bakery If you miss the taste of golden homestyle dinner rolls, Allie Mae’s Bakery delivers fluffy, housemade yeast rolls glistening with melted butter – one bite will transport you back to your grandma’s table. Order a dozen for $6.99 by Nov. 23 to have with your Thanksgiving dinner. You can also score whole pies in an array of flavors, such as cherry, gooseberry, strawberry-

rhubarb, raisin and chocolate cream.

For same-day treats, stop by Common Grounds Coffee & Cafe, where the bakery’s brownies, scones, cinnamon rolls and pie slices are available at the counter. We have a sweet spot for the chocolate croissants, which boast even more chocolate and butter than the traditional French pastry.

100 E. Pine St., Strafford, Missouri, facebook.com/alliemaesbakery photo by dean groover

INTRODUCES

Farm

to

Table

FIve COurSe dInner | LOCaLLy SOurCed FOOd | WIne paIrInGS | MuSIC

We’ve lifted our Spirits L et us lift Yours

theciderhouseevents.com | 28708 S. State Hwy 7 S, Garden City, MO 64747 Just 30-40 miles South of Kansas City | 6 miles east of I-49 on Hwy 7 S

Downtown Springfield’s New Rooftop Lounge & Conservatory

®

Create a thanksgiVing Dinner to remember.

Choose from hickory smoked turkeys and hams, gourmet sides and Desserts and add bacon to create your favorite appetizers. enjoy the best this holiday season!

Order TOday & ship laTer!

View the entire collection and other best-selling food gifts online or call with questions. sMOKehOUse.COM | 800-624-5426 | 32819 hwy 87 sOUTh, CalifOrnia, MO 65018 / nov e mbe r 2 019

27

PROMOTION

PROMOTION

This time of year is always my favorite.

There is so much to be grateful for, especially enjoying the company of family and friends with a home cooked meal.

Around our kitchen table, mom would always make enough food to feed our family plus the entire neighborhood. With these comforts of home, it’s not the time of year anyone wants to worry about their diet. My advice this holiday season, is just to be more aware of your eating and cooking habits. If we are more mindful about our food choices we can begin to make small changes. And it’s the little changes that can add up to big things.

One small swap you can make in your holiday spread is substituting a classic potato with a nutrient powerhouse like a winter squash. If you’re new to cooking squash, try delicata. With its soft edible skin it’s great for sautéing or roasting and a nice addition to a green salad. Looking for a pasta alternative? Spaghetti squash cooks down into pasta-like strands and its flavor mimics that of a traditional pasta dish. Butternut squash is one of the most popular winter squashes and can be used in a mash, casseroles, soups and sauces to name just a few. No matter which type of winter squash you choose, you can rest easy knowing that you are getting a healthy amount of fiber, Vitamin A and Vitamin C. With many varieties of winter squash to choose from, you are sure to find a fit for any occasion. My favorite way to enjoy these versatile veggies are when they are stuffed with all the flavors of fall. Inspiration for this month’s recipe started by choosing a variety of squash with a thick skin, like hubbard or acorn, because they are the best for stuffing and baking.

Not only is this a nutritious dish, but it’s a colorful way to serve your homemade stuffing. Remember, try making a few small swaps to make your table a little healthier without sacrificing on flavor.

STUFFED ACORN SQUASH SERVES 6

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE REGISTERED DIETITIAN, SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS

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3 2 ½ ½ 1½ 2 ½ ¼ 2 1 1 2½ ¼ 3 ¼ ¼ 1

large acorn squash tsp olive oil tsp salt, separated tsp black pepper, seperated Tbsp butter cloves garlic, minced cup mushrooms, chopped cup onion, chopped celery ribs, chopped apple, chopped Tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped cups cooked wild rice cup chicken stock Aidells chicken & apple sausages cup walnuts, chopped cup panko breadcrumbs cup pomegranate arils fresh parsley, chopped

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Halve squash vertically and scoop out seeds.

Brush with oil then sprinkle with half the salt and pepper. Arrange cut side down on a baking sheet and roast until soft, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile carefully remove casings from sausage. Cut sausage end to end with tip of knife, not cutting all the way through. Pull back and discard casings.

Heat medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add sausage meat and cook, breaking into small pieces, about 6-8 minutes. Set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add garlic, mushrooms, onion, celery, apples and rosemary; cook until softened, 5-7 minutes. Stir in rice and chicken stock; cover and simmer until liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Season with remaining salt and pepper. Stir cooked sausage and walnuts into rice mixture; cook 1-2 minutes or until warmed through.

Remove squash from oven and flip. Divide dressing mixture among squash and top with panko. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Cover with foil and bake 20-30 minutes. Increase oven to 400 degrees. Remove foil and bake until panko is crispy and golden, about 10 minutes. Evenly top with pomegranate and parsley before serving.

Stay In THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SUGAR RUSH / HEALTHY APPETITE /

turkey sandwich with Cranberry Mustard

serves 1

Cranberry Mustard (Yields 2 cups) 2½ cups, plus 2 Tbsp, spicy mustard 2 Tbsp brown sugar ¹⁄₈ tsp ground cloves ¹⁄₃ cup Fuji or Gala apples, peeled and diced 2 Tbsp honey 1½ tsp white vinegar 1 14-oz can cranberry sauce

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

At Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café in Springfield, Missouri, the cranberry-turkey sandwich captures the flavors of everyone’s favorite food holiday:

This recipe is based on using one 14-ounce can of cranberry sauce, but you could easily make cranberry sauce from scratch and use it here.

Thanksgiving. “Our cranberry mustard makes this sandwich one of our crowd favorites at Neighbor’s Mill,” says co-owner

Turkey Sandwich

cranberry mustard (recipe follows)

2 slices thick-cut country white bread 4 to 5 slices smoked turkey

1 slice Swiss cheese

2 tomato slices

1 piece leafy lettuce

Lauren Brown. “It has a nice, tangy kick, but we temper that with the addition of honey and brown sugar. The diced apples are also

/ preparation – cranberry mustard / In the

a surprising flavor

bowl of a food processor, add all ingredients

element that give the condiment a slightly

except cranberry sauce and purée. Pour mixture

thicker texture and

into a large bowl and slowly add cranberry

body, so anyone who’s

sauce, mixing by hand until well-blended.

usually standoffish

Store in an airtight container or use it

about mustard might

immediately on a sandwich or as a spread.

find they actually enjoy

/ preparation – turkey sandwich / Spread 2

this flavor!” –Liz Miller

ounces of cranberry mustard on bread. Layer turkey, cheese, tomato slices and lettuce

Recipe by Lauren Brown, co-owner, Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café

between bread and serve.

Photography by brandon alms

“Use the cranberry mustard as a base for a vinaigrette dressing. Just whisk a smaller amount of it with olive oil until smooth and toss over a salad.”

–Lauren Brown

Zach Fortner General manager

Pineapple Whip

Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café

“I didn’t know what Springfield was missing until we got Neighbor’s Mill. I like taking the whole family for breakfast so I can justify getting a breakfast sandwich (Miller’s Breakfast Sandwich is my favorite) and a pastry, too. The only downside is having to summon the willpower not to stick around long enough for lunch.” / nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Layered Brie with Spiced Cranberry Sauce Cranberry Sauce 1½ cups water 1½ cups granulated sugar 1½ lbs fresh cranberries 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp cayenne

This snack travels well, so you can take it to a party; I recommend borrowing the

assembly 2 8-oz wheels Brie cranberry sauce (recipe follows)

host’s oven for five minutes to serve it hot – it’s extra delicious.

Cranberries Throughout November and December, there is never a shortage of cranberry in my pantry.

My cravings for those bitterly sweet berries

/ preparation – cranberry sauce / Heat water and sugar in a medium pot over high heat. Once water boils, add cranberries. Boil cranberries for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they have all popped; stir occasionally. Once cranberries have popped, lower heat to a simmer and add cinnamon, paprika and cayenne. Stir until sauce thickens, 2 to 3 minutes, and then remove from heat. / assembly / Preheat oven to 350°F. Scrape the top off each wheel of Brie and the bottom off one wheel. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper; place Brie with uncut bottom, bottom side down, on the pan. Spread ½ cup cranberry sauce on top. Place second Brie wheel on top; spread 1 cup or more cranberry sauce on top. Bake in oven for 5 to 10 minutes, watching from the 5-minute mark to make sure the cake doesn’t collapse. Remove from oven and serve warm.

Cranberry & White Chocolate Breakfast Bars juice of ½ lemon 1 Tbsp water ½ cup, plus 4 Tbsp, maple syrup, divided 1 cup cranberries (fresh or frozen) 1 cup raspberries (fresh or frozen) 3 cups old-fashioned oats 1 Tbsp sesame seed 1 Tbsp chia seed These breakfast bars – equally as sweet and fulfilling as leftover pie – will load you up with energy and essential nutrients.

is too strong to wait for a special occasion, them in my meal prep all season long.

Recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

1 Tbsp ground flax meal 1 tsp salt ¼ cup, plus 2 Tbsp, shaved white chocolate, divided ¼ cup olive or coconut oil 1 egg, beaten 1 Tbsp peanut butter 1 Tbsp vanilla extract

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 9-by-9-inch baking pan with parchment paper.

In a saucepan over medium heat, add lemon juice, water and 4 tablespoons maple syrup.

Stirring, bring mixture to a boil. Add cranberries and raspberries; stirring frequently, bring to a boil and then lower heat to medium low and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Once berries have softened, turn off heat and carefully smash using the back of a fork or potato masher until the consistency resembles sauce or jam. Set aside and allow to cool until ready to use.

Berry Reduction 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce ½ Tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp water 1 Tbsp brown sugar 2 Tbsp pomegranate juice ²⁄₃ cup cranberries

This season, opt for a festive cranberry reduction to serve with your steak. feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

yields 12 bars

In a large bowl, combine oats, sesame seed, chia seed, flax meal, salt and ¼ cup white chocolate. Set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together oil, egg, peanut butter, ½ cup maple syrup and vanilla extract. Add half of oat mixture to baking pan, spreading evenly over the bottom. Evenly spread berry sauce over oat mixture. Top with remaining oats and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons white chocolate. Bake in oven for approximately 30 minutes, until top turns golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature, approximately 30 minutes. Place in refrigerator for 2 hours before slicing into squares and serving.

so I’ve found different ways to incorporate

30

Serves 4

/ preparation / In a small bowl, whisk together Worcestershire sauce and balsamic. Add Worcestershire-balsamic mixture, water, brown sugar and pomegranate juice to a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until mixture boils; add cranberries and reduce heat to simmer.

Simmer for 8 minutes, or until cranberries begin to burst. Remove from heat and pour over flank steak when ready to serve.

yields 1 cup Visit feastmagaz ine.com for our flank steak recipe to pa ir with this be rry reduction.

Menu now featuring select German entrees, sandwiches and appetizers as well as our Tavern favorites.

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• Smoked Turkeys • Oven Baked Turkeys • Store Baked

Don’t Forget the Sides: • Homemade Dressing • Homemade Gravy • Store Baked Pies

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WinterFest WinterF Saturday, Dec. 7 at 400 W Main St and 113 Grand Ave. 8am – 7pm

Breakfast With Santa – Inflatables For The Whole Family Ice Skating – Face Painting – Visits With Santa Balloon Twister – Fire Performer – Carriage Rides Petting Zoo – Food And Craft Vendors. / nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Apples to Aperol

Serves 16 piced Apple Syrup S zest of 2 lemons 8 oz granulated sugar Sweetness varies 1 Ceylon cinnamon stick, crushed greatly with cider 4 allspice berries so add more lemon ½ inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced juice to taste.

16 oz cold-pressed apple juice piced Apple Punch S 8 oz lemon juice 16 oz spiced apple syrup (recipe follows) 12 oz applejack, cognac or brandy 8 oz Aperol 16 dashes orange bitters 60 oz dry hard cider 12 oz sparkling water apple slices, cinnamon sticks or lemon wheels (for garnish) / preparation – spiced apple syrup / In a bowl, combine lemon zest and sugar; let sit for 30 minutes for oils to release into sugar. Add sugar mixture and all other ingredients to a saucepan. Heat over medium and stir constantly until sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat, allow to cool and strain.

Refrigerate until needed. / preparation – spiced apple punch / In a punch bowl or pitcher, add lemon juice, spiced apple syrup, applejack, cognac or brandy and Aperol and mix well. Right before serving, add orange bitters, cider and sparkling water and stir.

Garnish with apple slices, cinnamon sticks and lemon wheels.

If serving from a punch bowl, try freezing a large block of ice two days in advance. Fill a mini Igloo cooler with hot water and leave the lid open when you place it in the freezer for an impressive block.

3 Standout Hard Ciders Try these ciders with your holiday punch or on their own.

Punch is the name of the game come holiday season.

Easily prepped ahead of time and finished with sparkling dry cider, this spiced, apple-centric, pitcher-friendly concoction is sure to please guests. Group cocktails also assure that you can spend more time with your family and friends and less time with a shaker in hand. Substitute non-alcoholic sparkling cider for a cocktail with a little less “punch” depending on your crowd.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photograph by Starboard & Port Creative

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

KC Cider Co. Imperial Dry Cider Inspired by an early freeze in the Midwest last year, this complex, high-ABV, limited-release cider is made from pressed and fermented frozen apples.

Shacksbury Rosé Cider New England pressed apples aged on California grape skins give this dry rosé-inspired cider a hint of pink.

Austin Eastciders From dry to hopped and blood orange to pineapple, this Texas-style cider comes in a flavor for every mood.

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1740 HOLMES ST. KANSAS CITY, MO EAST CROSSROADS NEIGHBORHOOD @CITYBARREL / nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Ja m Pump Up the Jam As the air turns crisper and temperatures begin to cool this month, the flavors of spring and summer – or even warmer climates, from the Caribbean to Hawaii – linger in jars of local jam. Whether spooned into your morning cup of yogurt or swirled into baked Brie for a holiday snack, these high-quality jams will enhance any meal.

Written by Liz Miller / photo by chris bauer

Each batch of rosemary-fig spread from Kansas City Canning Co. is produced using savory rosemary and sweet organic figs. Once a seasonal spread, it’s landed a permanent spot on Boulevard Beer Hall’s new food menu and is now available year-round on the chorizo and fig flatbread, as well as online. Score a jar at kansascitycanningco.com and smear it on baked Brie, pork or pizza at home.

Larder & Cupboard’s preserves aren’t only delicious, they’re award-winning. That’s right: The store’s apricot-lemon-thyme and strawberry-lemon verbena preserves both won a 2018 Good Food Award in the preserves category. Owner Cindy Higgerson makes the preserves in-house using the highest quality ingredients – and the fruits of her labor have clearly been rewarded. Pick up a jar the next time you’re in Maplewood, Missouri. larderandcupboard.com

Sarah Hoffmann owner

Green Dirt Farm

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Although The Berry Nutty Farm specializes in fruit spreads – made with fresh berries and less sugar than traditional jam – recently, the company has introduced classic jams as well. We love the cranberry flavor – its pleasant tartness perfectly complements the tang of chèvre on a cheese board, or use it as the base for leftover turkey sandwiches following Thanksgiving. theberrynuttyfarm.com

Kansas City Canning Co.

Based in St. Charles, Missouri, Uncle Bob’s Spice and Blends offers three flavors of homemade jam: cranberry-pepper, blueberry-pepper and Hot Damn Pineapple Jam. As the name suggests, the pineapple jam brings the heat, thanks to an ingredient list that includes habanero, jalapeño and ghost peppers. Uncle Bob himself recommends trying the jam in your next batch of hot wings or mellowed with cream cheese as a spicy spread. unclebobsspiceandblends.com

Made with North American elderberries, Norm’s Farms elderberry-ginger-pecan jam is produced with just six other ingredients: sugar, pecans, candied ginger, lemon juice concentrate, water and GMO-free pectin mix. The jam packs a flavor punch, with spiciness from the candied ginger, a citrusy note from the lemon and natural sweetness from the berries. Based in Purdy, Missouri, Norm’s Farms sells a range of jams, jellies and preserves, all available for purchase at normsfarms.com.

“We love Kansas City Canning Co.’s small-batch jams and pickles at Green Dirt Farm! We feature them in many of our menu recipes and sell them in our shop. We even did a pairing class featuring our sheep's milk cheeses and their products in October.”

www.edg-clif.com

GE T

CRAFTY

THIS FALL IN

SOUTHWEST

ILLINOIS

ENJOY CRAFT BEER AND BEAUTIFUL AUTUMN COLORS GRAFTON BREWHAUS, OLD BAKERY BEER, OLD HERALD BREWERY, OPERA HOUSE BREWING, PEEL BREWING COMPANY, AND RECESS BREWING. RIVERSANDROUTES.COM

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/ nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

What Is It?

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

What Do I Do With It?

For centuries in southern Italy, after wheat

Due to its thorny past, grano arso wasn’t

was harvested, the fields were subsequently

seen for decades, only returning to shelves

set ablaze and plowed under to prepare

recently to celebrate the tenacity of those

the soil for replanting. In the time between

who struggled and to continue the culinary

burning and plowing, poverty-stricken

traditions of the region. The wheat itself is

residents with limited access to grain would

special: nutty, smoky flavor and a charcoal

scour the charred fields, salvaging any edible

color lends instant depth to anything you

remains to grind into flour – the fine, brown-gray flour known as “grano arso,” or burnt wheat flour, is the result of that labor.

Grano arso, to some, is an unyielding reminder of acute poverty in the region and the shame that often results – a time that

A humble grain with a complex – and painful – place in Italy’s history.

add it to. The flames burn off most of the gluten; try it in place of all-purpose flour to add a toasty undertone to bread and pasta.

Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

many who lived through it would prefer to forget. To others, especially younger generations, the grain is a symbol of resilience and resourcefulness; it represents an era when those who came before fought to survive by any means necessary.

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

Amazon.com is the easiest way to get your hands on grano arso, but if you have a favorite Italian market, it may be something the shop can order for you.

It’s party season: Skip the crackers and add a snappy Italian breadstick to your charcuterie board. These are pulled rather than rolled, giving them eye-catching irregular shapes and dramatic length.

Grano Arso Grissini

yields 3 to 4 dozen breadsticks

1¼ cups warm water 1 Tbsp honey 2 tsp granulated sugar 1 packet active dry yeast (not instant) 2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more for brushing 3 cups bread flour ½ cup grano arso 1¼ tsp kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling ¼ cup semolina or cornmeal 1 large egg 1 Tbsp cold water 1 Tbsp, plus 2 tsp, poppy seed 1 Tbsp caraway seed sea salt, for sprinkling / preparation / In the bowl of a stand mixer,

add warm water, honey, sugar and yeast; stir and let sit until foamy, 5 minutes. Add oil, flour, grano arso and salt; fit mixer with paddle attachment and mix on low until all ingredients are just combined. Replace with dough hook and knead on low, 4 minutes.

Increase speed to medium; mix for 1 minute until dough is smooth and cleans the bowl.

Preheat oven to 450°F. Turn dough onto a work surface sprinkled with semolina or cornmeal and roll into a 12-inch-long rectangle. Brush with olive oil, cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place, 1 hour. Remove plastic wrap and cut rectangle into 3 sections crosswise; cut each section into thin, finger-size strips.

Use your hands to pull each strip outward to form a long breadstick the width of the baking sheet you set them on.

Beat egg and cold water together until combined; lightly brush on each breadstick. Mix poppy seed and caraway seed together and sprinkle over the top of each breadstick; sprinkle generously with sea salt. Bake in batches until a deep golden color and crunchy, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven and serve warm or cooled.

bPRO TIP Can you knead this by hand? Absolutely.

If you crave the extra arm workout, simply mix the liquid and dry ingredients together until combined, then knead on a clean work surface for approximately 10 minutes, until smooth.

PA I R IT!

pair with: Porter

While it’s tough to find a beer that pairs well with burnt wheat flour, it’s not impossible. Enter Dark Matter from Logboat Brewing Co. This porter has notes of roasted coffee and dark chocolate that will match the “burnt” element of grano arso, and since porters are brewed to be less bitter than stouts, you’ll get a smooth finish that won’t be too intense for the grissini. –Justin phelps logboatbrewing.com

THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Chocolate Squash S cones

with Espresso-Maple Glaze

These scones are full of warm fall spices and melted bits of chocolate, and thanks to the addition of cream and roasted squash, they’re extra tender.

However, they do require a little planning ahead: The roasted squash needs ample time to drain out some of its excess moisture and the scones will need to be frozen before baking, which helps produce a perfectly balanced texture of a tender interior with crisp outer edges that hold their shape during baking. When paired with a hot cup of morning coffee, these scones make for an excellent Thanksgiving breakfast.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

pair with: Port

PA I R IT!

Oak barrel and bottle aging give the Port from Hermannhof Winery in Hermann, Missouri, a rich complexity that offers bold chocolate flavors and notes of dried dark fruit. Made from the finest Norton grapes, the semi-sweet dessert wine stands up to the espresso and maple syrup in this decadent dessert. –Hilary Hedges hermannhof.com

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

Happy Hour Mon.-Fri. 2:30 pm - 5:30 pm

yields 6 scones Roasted Acorn Squash Purée 1 acorn squash (about 1½ lbs), halved and seeded extra-virgin olive oil

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Espresso-Maple Glaze 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 1 Tbsp pure maple syrup 1 Tbsp freshly brewed strong coffee ½ tsp instant espresso powder generous pinch kosher salt Chocolate-Squash Scones 2 cups all-purpose flour ¹⁄₃ cup granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling 1 Tbsp baking powder ¼ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves 6 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes ²⁄₃ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips ¹⁄₃ cup heavy cream ½ cup roasted acorn squash purée (recipe follows) 2 large eggs, divided espresso-maple glaze (recipe follows) pepitas, roasted and salted / preparation – roasted acorn squash / Preheat oven to 400°F. On a

baking sheet, place acorn squash halves cut side up and lightly brush cut surfaces with olive oil. Roast for 40 to 45 minutes, or until very soft and edges begin to caramelize. Remove from oven and let cool. Scrape out the roasted squash flesh and mash with a fork until smooth. Place squash

Serving Brunch Saturday & Sundays 10am-1pm

Drain and squeeze out as much extra moisture from the squash purée as you can. This will keep the dough from becoming too wet, which will produce a chewy scone instead of a flaky, tender one.

Mon–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm First Come - First Serve (No reservations)

Get in touch

winter Store hourS

2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood 314-704-4416 pieohmystl.com

Tuesday - Friday: 10am - 5pm Saturday: 10am - 5pm Closed Sundays and Mondays

purée in a fine mesh strainer, set over a bowl and place in the refrigerator to drain for at least 4 hours, or overnight. When ready to use, wrap squash purée in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out any excess water. / preparation – espresso-maple glaze / In a small bowl, whisk together

all ingredients until smooth. / preparation – chocolate-squash scones / Line a baking sheet with

parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices. Cut butter into the flour mixture with a pastry blender, or two knives, until the size of small peas. Mix in chocolate chips.

In a separate bowl, whisk together cream, squash purée and 1 egg. Add the cream mixture to the flour mixture. Using a spatula, mix the dough in a folding motion just until the dough comes together (there will still be dry spots). Do not over mix. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and, using a

Resist the urge to add more cream to the dough. It will appear dry at first, but kneading it will bring it together nicely.

bench scraper or your hands, gently knead the dough over onto itself 4 to 5 times until it comes together and there are no remaining dry spots.

Pat the dough into a 6-inch round, about 1-inch thick. Cut into 6 wedges with a chef’s knife. Place the scones on the baking sheet and transfer to the freezer until completely frozen, at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place

The Perfect “FEAST” The grazing Table

frozen scones on baking sheet, about 2 inches apart. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of the scones with 1 lightly beaten egg. Sprinkle the top of each scone generously with sugar. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, or until deeply golden and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Once cool, top with a generous drizzle of espresso-maple glaze and a sprinkling of pepitas.

InspiredOccasionsKC.com / nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

These cabbage buns are similar to the bierocks my mother made throughout my childhood.

The bierock – a doughy roll stuffed with savory filling – was passed down from my mother’s family, who were part of a Volga German/Russian community. It shares traits and the origin of its name with pirog, a Russian stuffed dumpling, and börek, a Turkish stuffed bread. Although simplistic in their nature, I considered them a special treat whenever my mom surprised me with them. They are delicious at any temperature, although I’m particularly fond of eating them cold the next day after they’ve had time to absorb all the juices from the filling.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-co-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by Drew Piester

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Creamy Cabbage and Onion Rolls

yields 12 rolls Filling 4 Tbsp olive oil 1½ medium yellow onion, julienned 6 cloves garlic, minced 1½ head of cabbage, julienned salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1½ cup heavy cream Rolls 2 cups, plus 1 Tbsp, lukewarm water, divided 1 Tbsp, plus 2 tsp, instant dry yeast ½ cup sugar, divided 7 cups all-purpose flour 3 eggs, divided 1 Tbsp kosher salt ¼ cup olive oil nonstick cooking oil spray assorted toppings (pepitas, sesame seed, poppy seed, everything spice)

bPRO TIP

Filling can be made one day ahead of time to curtail same-day prep.

/ preparation – filling / Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and cabbage and season with salt and pepper to taste; cook until ingredients are very soft and slightly caramelized, 10 to 15 minutes. Add cream and reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste; set aside to cool completely. / preparation – cabbage and onion rolls / Pour 2 cups water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Stir in yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar; let sit for 5 minutes. Add flour, 2 eggs, remaining sugar, salt and oil; mix on low speed to combine. If the dough looks too soft, add a few pinches of flour. Increase speed and knead for 5 minutes. Place dough in oiled bowl, cover with a clean towel and let rise for approximately 1 hour, or until the dough has doubled in size.

PA I R IT! pair with: Gin

These buns beg for a Gibson – boozy and nuanced, it's a classic Martini garnished with cocktail onions. The prevalent sage notes of StilL 630’s Volstead’s Folly Gin makes it a great choice for this particular recipe pairing. In a pint glass with ice, combine 1½ ounces gin and 1½ ounces dry vermouth (I recommend Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry) and stir gently. Strain mixture into a Martini glass. Garnish with 3 skewered pickled pearl onions. -Jenn Tosatto still630.com

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and spray with nonstick cooking oil spray. Divide dough into 12 equal pieces and, working with one at a time, roll each piece into a thin round on a clean surface.

Place approximately ¾ cup of filling in the center of each round, careful not to overfill. Gather the edges of each round, pull up over filling, pinch together at the top and fold extra dough over. Place on sheet pan with the pinched and folded side of the dough facing down. Continue this cycle with the remaining rounds and set side by side. Cover with clean towel and allow to rise for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Whisk 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water together; brush egg wash onto each roll and sprinkle with toppings. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes; rotate and bake for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, until rolls are a deep, golden brown. Remove from oven and serve hot, warm, cold, anyway you like!

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

MOUNT VERNON, MO.

with David and Ann Buehler

/ owners, Elder Farms What inspired you to grow elderberries?

Agriculture is really tough. A few years ago, I told my wife that I thought we needed to change direction; as a farm, we were going backward instead of forward. When my neighbor planted a patch of elderberries, I watched him for the first year or two and thought, “I think I’d like to do that as an alternative crop.” I could essentially raise one acre of elderberry compared to 20 or 30 acres of soybeans, so why not? –David Buehler

Written by Lillian Stone photography by brad zweerink

After more than 100 years, the Buehler family homestead in Mount Vernon, Missouri, has begun growing a new and unusual crop: elderberry.

A passion project for fourth-generation farmer David Buehler and his wife, Ann, David says, “Elderberry is one of the best things for your immune system.”

The couple is spreading the word about the plant’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties through their side business, Elder Farms. Their growing product line includes an elderberry-infused CBD wellness tincture, two raw honeys and an elderflower hemp-infused coconut oil.

“What keeps us going are the stories that we get from customers who have experienced the health benefits of our products,” says Ann.

How do you use Elder Farms products at home? I tend to follow the keto diet, and I’ve been really into using [Elder Farms] coconut oil in my Bullet coffee to incorporate some healthy fat. It has a really light flavor and a subtle fragrance that I love. It’s also a great substitute for vegetable oil as long as you’re not cooking at high temperatures. I also use our honey to make protein balls or a homemade simple syrup for Margarita mix.

–Ann Buehler How do you approach R&D for your products? As far as development goes, we worked on the honey for four to five months.

We had to have the right balance of dried flowers and raw honey. Now, it takes four to five weeks to produce a single batch. –D.B. Do you have any new products in the works?

Our elderberry syrups for coughs, colds and the flu are currently in production. We’re doing three different recipes with organic additives such as cinnamon, cloves and turmeric; we’ve had some crazy good feedback so far. You can even add the syrups to cocktails, and we’ve also launched an Elder Moon tea made with dried elderberries. At home, we make a simple syrup with our royal elderberry honey and add it to the tea – it’s really lovely. –A.B. elderfarms.com

Ann’s 3 Favorite Products from

HempBerry CBD Supplement

Royal Elderberry Honey

“I’m all about CBD protein balls.

“I love this flavored honey

Elderflower Hemp-Infused Coconut Oil

I throw them together with

on a hearty cracker with

“I whip a teaspoon of coconut oil into my Bullet coffee or

dried elderberries, gluten-free

cream cheese and

use it to make gluten-free cookies and peanut butter-based

oatmeal, cinnamon, vanilla,

diced jalapeño for

dog treats. It can also be used topically for aches and pains.”

peanut butter and dark carob.”

a little sweet heat.”

Elder Farms

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

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THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

In this class, you’ll learn wonderful ways to use pears while they’re in season.

You’ll also learn how to supreme a citrus fruit – a technique that gives grapefruit, orange, lemon and lime a next-level presentation.

Ginger-Pear Soup It’s pear season! Can you tell? They’re the best-looking fruit at the market right now, so grab an armful of ripe Bartlett or Bosc for this savory soup. You know a Bosc pear is ripe when it’s nearly the color of pumpkin. Bosc have great flavor and hold their shape, while Bartlett pears are exceptionally juicy. Pro tip: The cardamom in the recipe adds depth to the overall flavor, coaxing out hints of mint and lemon; increase the amount as your taste dictates.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., nov. 20, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/webext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 42

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

serves 4 3 4 1

1 6

1 1 ½ 3 32 ½

Tbsp unsalted butter shallots, finely chopped russet potato, peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes Tbsp minced ginger ripe, sweet pears (Bartlett or Bosc), peeled and diced tsp chopped fresh sage tsp fresh thyme leaves tsp ground cardamom Tbsp maple syrup oz chicken stock cup heavy cream kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Gorgonzola Dolce, crumbled (for garnish) hazelnuts, toasted and chopped (for garnish)

/ preparation / Melt butter in a large pot over

medium-low heat. Add shallots and cook until soft and translucent, 5 minutes. If the shallots begin to brown, lower heat. Add potato and cook undisturbed for another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add ginger and cook for another minute. Add pear, sage, thyme, cardamom and maple syrup and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer; simmer for 15 minutes, or until potatoes and pears are very soft. Remove from heat.

Add soup to a blender 1½ cups at a time and purée until smooth. Liquid will still be very hot so do not add more than a third the capacity of the blender at a time. Once the entire mixture has been puréed, return to pot and add cream; reheat over medium-low heat.

Season with salt and pepper to taste; add more maple syrup as needed. Serve topped with Gorgonzola Dolce and hazelnuts.

 Chef Tip STOCK UP. A good chicken stock is important to this recipe as it adds the most volume and underlying flavor to the soup.

A homemade chicken stock would bring your soup up a notch.

SOAK YOUR SPUDS. Place peeled and diced potato cubes in water to prevent browning before use. Discard water before adding to pot.

MAKE THE MEAL • • • • •

Ginger-Pear Soup Winter Citrus Salad Sheet Pan Pork Chops with Cornbread Stuffing Braised Brussels Sprouts Tarte Tatin

CULINARY LIBRARY /

kansas

with Jan Knobel / co-owner, The Upper Crust Pie Bakery tFor Jan Knobel and Elaine Van Buskirk, her sister and business partner, the idea to open

The Upper Crust Pie Bakery in Overland Park, Kansas, came from their shared love of pie. Growing up in central Kansas, pies were a part of every family gathering and the sisters considered themselves privileged to know what real pie looks and tastes like. With help from their mother, the “pie master,” they started selling pies at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market in 2005 and then at the popular Kansas City kitchen store Pryde’s Old Westport. Business picked up and in 2011, they opened their own brick-and-mortar location. Today, Knobel and Buskirk make a large selection of pies that can be purchased whole or by the slice, along with cookies and dessert bars. Knobel shares which cookbooks have been most helpful over the years. –Jenny Vergara

Joy of Cooking: All About Pies & Tarts

photo by angela bond

by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker (2002) “This cookbook has been a part of our bakery library since 2006. It teaches professional and home cooks alike how to make everything from a Concord grape pie to a cream or chiffon pie to a savory pie or tart. I appreciate its clearly illustrated instructions and straightforward recipes – so much so that several of our cream pie recipes were taken from it.”

Better Homes & Gardens

Great Pies & Tarts

New Cook Book (1979)

by Carole Walter (1998)

“This was the very first cookbook I owned. It was a gift from my mother for my high school graduation in 1981. Cooking and baking were very much a part of my upbringing, with homemade cookies being a staple in the house. The Chocolate Chippers cookie recipe from this book has always been the go-to recipe for my family and has since been incorporated into our bakery as the featured chocolate chip cookie. Despite its worn cover and slightly torn pages, I have much affection for it, as it was the starting point of my baking career.”

“Once the pie bakery became a reality, I was eager to learn more about the many varieties of pie that exist. I was familiar with my family's Midwest pie recipes, but I had little exposure to pies that are loved throughout other parts of the country. This book – given to me by a friend – introduced me to chess pie and sweet potato pie, as well as fruit combinations that I hadn't tried. It is also an excellent resource for basic techniques, solutions to common pastry problems and helpful ingredient hints."

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

43

THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Eating a great slice of pie is like receiving a bear hug. There’s nothing fussy or pretentious about it – just a whole lot of warmth and love shared amongst family and friends. No wonder, then, that pies are the unofficial dessert of Thanksgiving:

They’re communal experiences of unadulterated comfort food bliss.

While baking a pie from scratch can feel like a daunting task, all it takes is a little patience, persistence and planning.

Pumpkin Pie

Fill It Up Right Everyone has their own pie preferences, but you can’t argue with the classics.

These three fillings have stood the test of time, and for good reason – they’re delicious!

All filling recipes courtesy of Jean Plumley and Rebecca Miller, the mother-daughter duo behind Peggy Jean’s Pies in Columbia, Missouri.

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

yields 1 9-inch pie

2 cups canned pumpkin purée ¾ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground cloves

2 eggs

1 12-oz can evaporated milk

fluted, unbaked pie shell / preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a bowl, whisk together pumpkin and sugar. Add cinnamon, ginger and cloves and mix with a spatula until incorporated. In a small bowl, whisk eggs; add to pumpkin mixture and whisk to combine. Slowly pour evaporated milk into pumpkin mixture and whisk until completely blended. Pour into a fluted, unbaked pie shell. Bake for 40 minutes on parchment-lined cookie sheet. After 40 minutes, test the center of the pie with a wooden toothpick; when pie is ready, toothpick will come out clean. Bake for additional time as needed.

Written by Jeremy Goldmeier Photography by jessica white illustrations by katie lukes

# Salt, Fat, Flour, Water

While some intricate recipes incorporate other elements, you really only need these four basic ingredients to make your pie crust sing.

While the filling is the flashy and flavorful piece of the pie, the crust is just as important.

You can pick up premade pie crust from your local supermarket, but for the great flavor you seek, you’ll want to make your own.

Intimidated by making dough from scratch?

It’s easy once you know the basics.

# Choose Your Fat

The fat question is an interesting one. You’ll find recipes for crusts that incorporate butter, lard, vegetable shortening or a combination of two.

Here, two Missouri pie experts sound off on their favorites:

Team Butter-shortening mixture Cindy Huger owner, it’s easy as pie in st. louis “At It’s Easy as Pie, I offer different crusts – butter, lard, gluten-free – but my standard crust is made from half butter, half vegetable shortening, which keeps it lighter.

Although it’s a flaky pastry, it’s got some depth to it.

I’ve found a good balance with that one.”

# The Big Roll Out

# Keep It Chill

bSee Huger’s flaky pie crust recipe on the next page.

Team Lard

(or Crisco as a vegan-friendly substitute) Jean Plumley co-owner, peggy jean’s pies in columbia, missouri “We call the dough I make ‘Play-Doh’ because it is very forgiving. It has a lot of elasticity; if you tear it, you can patch it and it works out just fine. Lard bakes a tender, flaky crust, but I have found that Crisco can give lard a hard run for its money when it comes to taste.”

Temperature is arguably the most important factor for making good pie crust. Think of warm pie dough as public enemy No. 1, and as you assemble it, keep your ingredients chilled. Key ingredients should be cooled even before they enter the bowl – as should the bowl itself and any other tools you use.

# Work Ahead of Time

The glorious part of pie crust is that you can make it days or even weeks before you need to use it. If you’re prepping a pie as the finishing touch of an elaborate meal, it’s a huge relief to knock out the dough ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze it until baking day rolls around.

American Apple Pie

Southern Pecan Pie

yields 1 9-inch pie

yields 1 9-inch pie 1½ 1½ 5 1½ 1½

2

Granny Smith work best for this recipe, but if you like less tartness, try Red or Golden Delicious.

or 7 large apples 6 1½ cups white sugar ¾ cup flour

1 tsp ground nutmeg

1 tsp ground cinnamon

fluted, unbaked pie shell

1 Tbsp butter unbaked, prepared pie dough

cups light brown sugar Tbsp butter whole eggs cups light corn syrup tsp vanilla cups pecan pieces unbaked pie shell

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. Add brown sugar to a deep mixing bowl, checking that sugar is smooth and free of lumps. Melt butter in microwave until completely melted; pour over brown sugar and whisk together.

In a separate bowl, add eggs and whisk until fluffy. Keep in mind that the more you whisk in the air, the fluffier your pecan filling will be.

Pour eggs into the brown sugar-butter mixture; whisk together until well blended, scraping the sides of the bowl with a spatula as needed.

Add corn syrup, vanilla and pecan pieces; mix well and pour into an unbaked pie shell. Bake on center rack for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F and bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until center begins to crack. Remove from oven and let cool.

The moment of truth: It’s time to roll out your pie dough and place it in the pan. This final step takes patience and a little tough love, but ultimately provides the most satisfaction.

First, remove the dough from the refrigerator or freezer and let it warm just until it’s workable. Lightly flour a clean work surface, as well as your rolling pin. Gradually roll out the dough, flipping it over when necessary and dusting with chilled flour if it gets too sticky, until it’s thin and broad enough to hang over your pie pan by approximately half an inch.

When it’s time to transfer the dough to the pan, roll the dough around your rolling pin and then carefully unroll it over the pie pan. Voilà!

Want a fancy finish?

See the lattice crust instructions on the next page.

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. Peel, core and slice apples. In a large mixing bowl, stir together sugar, flour, nutmeg and cinnamon.

Add apple slices and toss gently until apples are completely covered. Add the coated apples to a fluted unbaked pie shell. Dot apples with butter. Using prepared pie dough, cover the top of the pie and flute the pie shell. Using a fork, add ventilation holes to the top. Bake on a parchment-lined cookie sheet for 1 hour or until juice begins to bubble through holes in the crust. / nov e mbe r 2 019

45

THE DISH / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / Sugar rush / HEALTHY APPETITE /

QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

4 m Dress to Impress Weaved lattice crust on top of pie is the perfect finishing touch – not to mention a surefire tactic to please guests.

Pie Dough

 Roll out pie dough as if

recipe

you’re making another crust.

Your hands should be cool and dry when working with any raw pastry dough. Run them under cold water and then towel dry before beginning this process.

Recipe courtesy of Cindy Huger, owner, It’s Easy as Pie in St. Louis

 Using a pizza cutter, slice the dough into ¾-inch-wide strips.

 Lay five evenly spaced strips parallel to one another across filled pie.

yields 1

½ ½ 3 ½ ²⁄₃

cup butter, softened slightly cup vegetable shortening cups flour tsp salt cup purified water, chilled

/ preparation / In a large, chilled bowl, mix together all ingredients except water. Combine using the palms of your hands in a pressing motion.

When adequately combined, mixture will have a sand-like consistency with no lumps. Stir in water using a fork until just incorporated; do not over-stir.

The dough should bind together and not be sticky. Cover bowl with a clean towel and set in refrigerator for 10 minutes.

Lightly flour a clean work surface. Remove dough from refrigerator, transfer to work surface and gradually roll out. If you find the dough to be too sticky at first, add a small amount of flour to the mixture.

If it’s too dry and crumbly, add a small amount of chilled water and stir using a fork until just incorporated.

Once dough is rolled out to desired size, transfer to pie pan.

 Peel back the second and fourth strips and lay a new strip perpendicular to the rest; fold the second and fourth strips back over the perpendicular strip.

 Repeat step 4 with the first, third and fifth strips, spacing perpendicular strips approximately 1 inch apart.

 Repeat steps 4 and 5 until your pie is perfectly latticed.

 Trim the ends of the lattice strips to a uniform length and fold them under bottom crust.

We get it: Big family meals (especially at Thanksgiving) come with an avalanche of tasks that all require time and attention. A homemade pie can be a bridge too far during crunch time.

If you want to buy a locally baked pie instead of making your own, try one of these tried-and-true Missouri pie shops – they all but guarantee people will still gobble up your dessert.

just buy it 46

It’s Easy as Pie 67 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, Missouri, itseasyaspie.com

Ashleigh’s Bake Shop 115 Westport Road, Kansas City, Missouri, ashleighsbakeshop.com

Pie Oh My! 2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, pieohmystl.com

Golden Boy Pies 4945 Hadley St., Overland Park, Kansas, goldenboypies.com

Pint Size Bakery & Coffee 3133 Watson Road, St. Louis, Missouri, pintsizebakery.com

Heirloom Bakery & Hearth 401 E. 63rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, heirloomkc.com

Sugaree Baking Co. 1242 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, sugareebaking.com

The Upper Crust 7943 Santa Fe Drive, Overland Park, Kansas, uppercrustpiebakery.com

The Blue Owl 6116 2nd St., Kimmswick, Missouri, theblueowl.com

YUM, a Boutique Bakery 104 E. 43rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, yumkansascity.com

Peggy Jean’s Pies 503C E. Nifong Blvd., Columbia, Missouri, peggyjeanspies.com

The Pie Safe 2129 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri, facebook.com/thepiesafe.mo

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

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51

l a n sa o rts e s

71

D Se e s

and add some of these creative recipes to the biggest meal of the year.

But if you still crave the classics, from turkey to pumpkin pie, visit feastmagazine.com/thanksgiving for all of our foolproof Thanksgiving dishes.

Break with tradition

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SWEET 55

ozark forest mushrooms

66

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

thanksgiving

add fresh flavor and pops of color to an otherwise beige thanksgiving tablescape with these five seasonally inspired salad recipes

thanksgiving is a celebration of harvest and the changing of the season, of family and friends. In all these things we revel, joined together around copious amounts of food.

The bounty – which some of us lovingly prepare and others of us happily partake – can quickly become a sea of roasted meat and sauced vegetables, buttered bread and rich desserts.

We pour so much into our Thanksgiving meals, but often cast aside the easiest way to infuse the spread with color, texture and freshness: salad. Salads act as palate-breathers, giving your guests something they can nibble on between bites of turkey, mashed potatoes and stuffing. For your sake and theirs, you want a dish that accentuates the meal without overwhelming the table; a salad served with Thanksgiving dinner should play well with the other elements and, perhaps most importantly, never add to your stress level.

Each of these salads features pre-prepped elements, barely-there dressing and effortless drama; your work will be minimal, but I promise your end result will be dazzling. written by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

55

Warm Mushroom & Bacon salad serves 6 to 8

these days mushrooms are available almost year-round, but there’s still something gratifying about digging into a warm mushroom dish when the heat breaks and the leaves begin to fall. this salad in particular is rounded out with a nice crunch from the crispy bacon sprinkled on top.

Jalapeño Dressing 1½ Tbsp minced shallot 1 small jalapeño, stemmed and seeded, finely diced 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard 3 Tbsp olive oil assembly 3 Tbsp olive oil 8 sprigs fresh thyme 1 lb mixed mushrooms (shiitake, porcini, portabella or others), cleaned, stems removed as needed, sliced salt and freshly ground black pepper jalapeño dressing, divided (recipe follows) 1 small head radicchio, core removed, sliced in ribbons crosswise from top 1 small head escarole, thick stems removed from bottom, leaves roughly chopped 6 oz thick-cut bacon, crisped and roughly chopped 3 oz Parmesan, peeled and sliced in matchsticks ¹⁄₃ cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped / preparation – jalapeño dressing / Stir together shallot, jalapeño, garlic and vinegar in a small bowl; let sit for 10

minutes. Stir in mustard and olive oil until blended; set aside. pro tip

Even the largest mainstream markets have a somewhat limited selection of mushrooms, and most supplement their offerings with dried varieties. For more fresh options and some unusual, harder-to-find types of mushrooms, head to your nearest international market to see what you can dig up.

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/ assembly / Heat olive oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add thyme and mushrooms, stirring to coat.

Season generously with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and spoon 3 tablespoons jalapeño dressing over mushrooms, tossing to coat; hold in pan until ready to use.

Toss radicchio and escarole together with remaining dressing until coated; season to taste. Divide greens onto plates or lay out on a platter to serve family-style. Divide mushroom mixture, piled in center; top with bacon, Parmesan and parsley. Check seasoning and serve.

thanksgiving

Wine-Poached Pear & Black Walnut-Goat Cheese salad serves 4 Wine-Poached Pears

3 cups water

2 cups oaky Chardonnay zest of 1 large orange, peeled in large strips

¼ tsp allspice berries

3 whole cloves

1 medium cinnamon stick, broken

4 medium Bosc or Anjou pears Dressing

¼ cup reduced poaching liquid

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

2 Tbsp olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste assembly

1 large egg white

1 Tbsp water

4 oz log fresh goat cheese, sliced evenly into 4 rounds

½ cup finely chopped black walnuts, divided

3 oz baby arugula dressing, divided (recipe follows) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

wine-poached pears (recipe follows) 3 to 4 Tbsp dried cranberries, chopped

/ preparation – wine-poached pears / Add water, wine, orange zest, allspice, cloves and cinnamon to a saucepan large enough to hold liquid (and later, pears) and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, peel pears with a vegetable peeler and slice bottoms so pears stand upright. When mixture boils, reduce heat to medium and add pears; cover and simmer until tender, but not mushy, 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat, uncover and let pears cool to room temperature in liquid, then transfer pan with pears to refrigerator to chill overnight.

dramatic red wine-poached pears are everywhere around the holidays, but i like to keep things crisp and bright by using

/ preparation – dressing / Remove pears from liquid and set aside.

Set saucepan with liquid over medium-high heat and bring to a boil; reduce liquid until thickened and measures ¼ cup. Allow to cool slightly, then whisk in red wine vinegar and olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside. / assembly / Beat egg white with water in a small bowl; heat a small

skillet over medium heat. Dip each goat cheese round into egg mixture, then, in half the black walnuts, roll on all sides. Set in dry skillet and toast until nuts are fragrant, 1 minute per side. Remove and set aside to cool slightly. Toss arugula with half of the dressing and season with salt and pepper to taste; divide onto plates. Top each plate with one pear and one goat cheese round, then garnish with remaining black walnuts and cranberries. Drizzle pears and goat cheese with remaining dressing; check seasoning and serve.

white wine for a harvest table. an oaky chardonnay

–

one with

notes of apple and vanilla

“pears”

–

well with the flavors in

the poaching liquid. this starter is great for a small gathering, but if an elegant salad for a crowd is what you’re after, simply halve the pears after chilling

(doubling

the salad

e l e m e n t s t o s e r v e e i g h t ), s c o o p the core out with a melon baller and serve laid out on a platter. / nov e mbe r 2 019

57

greens don’t always have to take center stage in salad. here, the watercress is a supporting actor, adding peppery crunch to hits of earthy beet, sour grapefruit and creamy burrata. if you can’t locate watercress at your local market, fear not: baby arugula is a perfect understudy. give yourself a break by roasting the beets the day before your thanksgiving meal; they’ll have ample time to chill, and they won’t take up space in your oven during the main event.

set your mandoline to stun! this salad is super refreshing, but only if you can get the fennel paper-thin and nearly translucent

–

using a mandoline slicer

is a must. by all means, use fresh figs if you can find them, but i use dried figs here and they’re just as delicious.

Fennel & Fig salad serves 8 to 10 Lemon Dressing juice of 1 medium lemon 1 Tbsp, plus 1 tsp, olive oil 1 Tbsp, plus 1 tsp, honey 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Beet & Burrata salad serves 8

4

2

2

4

1

2 1½ to 2

medium red beets, scrubbed Tbsp, plus 4 tsp, olive oil, divided salt and freshly ground black pepper large red grapefruit oz watercress leaves Tbsp white balsamic vinegar balls burrata, drained tsp sumac (for garnish)

Sumac can be found at most local international markets, as well as Whole Foods Market and Williams Sonoma.

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice greens from beets, so beets sit upright. Place each on a square of aluminum foil and drizzle each with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and wrap tightly; transfer to lipped sheet pan and roast until tender, 1 hour. Remove, open foil and let cool to room temperature, then transfer to refrigerator to chill, 4 hours or overnight.

Remove beets from refrigerator and slice into ½-inch cubes. Use a paring knife to slice top and bottom from grapefruit, then slice skin away from top to bottom until grapefruit is clean; cut into segments. Arrange watercress on platter along with cubed beets and grapefruit pieces, leaving space in the center for burrata.

Whisk together balsamic vinegar and remaining olive oil and drizzle over top, then place burrata in reserved spaces. Season with salt and pepper to taste and garnish with sumac. Slice into burrata just before serving to let it spill out slightly over other ingredients.

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

assembly 2 medium fennel bulbs juice of 1 medium lemon 4 stalks celery, trimmed 16 dried Turkish figs, halved or quartered ²⁄₃ cup Kalamata olives, roughly chopped lemon dressing (recipe follows) salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 oz Manchego cheese ¹⁄₃ cup hazelnuts, skins removed and toasted / preparation – lemon dressing / Whisk together lemon juice,

olive oil, honey and Dijon mustard until blended. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside. / assembly / Use a mandoline to slice fennel bulbs paper-thin; place in a mixing bowl and pour lemon juice over slices to prevent browning and reserve fronds from top, if desired. Slice celery crosswise on mandoline and toss with fennel. Add figs, olives and lemon dressing, tossing to coat; season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to low serving bowl or lipped platter. Use vegetable peeler to shave Manchego over top; roughly chop hazelnuts and scatter over top. Check seasoning and serve.

thanksgiving

Moroccan-Spiced Butternut Ribbons serves 8 to 10 Dressing 2 Tbsp rice vinegar 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½ tsp grated fresh ginger 2 Tbsp olive oil 1½ Tbsp honey ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground turmeric assembly 1 medium butternut squash (2½ to 3 lbs) chilled dressing (recipe follows) 1 cup, plus 2 Tbsp, loosely packed fresh mint leaves, divided ½ cup dried currants, plumped in hot water, drained

/ preparation – dressing / In a small bowl, whisk together both vinegars, garlic and ginger. Heat olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat; add honey, cinnamon, cumin and turmeric and stir until fragrant. Remove from heat and pour into vinegar mixture. Cover and chill until cold, at least 2 hours or overnight. / assembly / Wearing gloves, slice the tip and tail from

butternut squash so it sits flat without wobbling. Use knife to peel skin away from squash, top to bottom; use vegetable peeler to clean away any remaining skin from flesh. Rinse peeler and slice butternut flesh from tip to tail in long ribbons. Place ribbons in a large bowl and toss with chilled dressing. Chop mint leaves and add all but 2 tablespoons to butternut ribbons, tossing to distribute.

Transfer to platter and top with remaining mint leaves and currants; serve cold.

full of flavor thanks to the moroccan-inspired spice blend, this recipe earns even more accolades because the butternut squash won’t oxidize and thwart your effort to bring color to your thanksgiving table.

pro tip

If you’ve ever heard that you can have a particularly nasty reaction from touching the skin of butternut squash, heed the warning: It happens, and the resulting irritation lives up to the hype. Save yourself the trouble by having a good pair of kitchen gloves on hand or, if you’re like me and forget to grab some, use a thick kitchen towel to protect your hand as you peel and thoroughly rinse the squash before you begin your ribbons.

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

59

Around this time every year, we start to think about the beloved sweet potato, and why not? Typically, sweet potatoes make an appearance at the holiday table, oven-roasted and possibly topped with marshmallow. But you aren’t one-note and neither are they. In fact, there are more than 6,500 types of sweet potatoes across the globe. Varying in color, moisture content and flavor, it can be daunting to choose the right type for your recipe. Each has its own charming characteristic that can shine in any number of dishes.

b

sw e e t

re

p otato e s

ak

from the m

d l o

I’ve developed five creative recipes that will get you playing around with sweet potatoes this holiday season – do these superior spuds justice and experiment. written by amanda elliott photography by aaron ottis

in these

5 original recipes

okinawan

garnet O'HENRY

jewel o ’ h e n ry A perfect baker,

this sweet potato is creamy and sweet when cooked and boasts nuanced flavors of nuts and honey.

60

garnet Its pumpkin-like texture makes this reddish-brown sweet potato perfect for pie.

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

o k i n awa n White skin masks vibrant purple

flesh full of anthocyanins, which account for the antioxidant effects of this sweet potato.

Also known as Hawaiian sweet potato, it's sweet smoothness is good for many applications.

j e w e l This type of sweet potato is a go-to for baking and casseroles, especially around the holidays. It's moist, tender and sweet – everything you want for your favorite Thanksgiving side dish.

thanksgiving

I love no other side dish as much as I love these curried sweet potatoes. This dish is sweet, spicy and herbaceous and just might be the big hit at your holiday party.

Know Your

Sweet Potato Distinguishing between the sweet potato and the yam can be tricky. The easiest way to tell the two apart is by the texture of their skin: Yams typically have a more tree bark-like exterior and sweet potatoes have a redder, sometimes purple, hue. The flesh of true yams has a completely different texture, as well, and is often starchier and less sweet than sweet potatoes.

Certain types of sweet potatoes – mostly Garnet and Jewel – have been referred to as yams to differentiate them from the O’Henry sweet potato, but they are quite different from a real yam. When trying a new sweet potato variety, take notes on its individual flavor profile and play around to find your favorite type.

Curried Sweet Potatoes serves 4 1 ½ ½ 1 1 1

If you make it

Tbsp olive oil to your local cup Thai red curry paste Asian market cup brown sugar for ingredients, 12-oz can coconut milk seek out Mae lb sweet potato, large dice Ploy or Maesri cup chopped cilantro red curry paste. juice and zest of 1 lime salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat; add red curry paste and brown sugar. Let mixture caramelize for 1 to 2 minutes. With a whisk, stir in coconut milk. Add sweet potato and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until potato is tender.

Stir in chopped cilantro and lime juice and zest.

Adjust seasoning to taste and serve immediately.

beauregard

willowleaf korean purple ko r e a n p u r p l e Flaunting strikingly dark purple skin, the nutty chestnut flavor of this sweet potato fares well in stuffing or sautéed with seasonal greens.

b e au r e g a r d Developed at Louisiana State

University in 1987, this variety may be the most popular sweet potato the world over.

With reddish-brown skin and orange flesh, it's extremely versatile and satisfactorily sweet.

w i l low l e a f Native to Missouri, this extremely rare heirloom variety has a nutty flavor when baked. / nov e mbe r 2 019

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AMERICAN PURPLE TOP With yellow bulbs that can grow up to six inches in diameter, the American Purple Top packs plenty of bang for the buck.

The “purple” refers to the coloring found on the broadest part of the vegetable, known as its shoulders. When cooked, the pale yellow flesh turns a deep autumn gold and has a sweet flavor.

As temperatures continue their downward slide, Dutch ovens and slow cookers are called back into action. Meat and potato dishes are quintessential autumn dinners, but the changing seasons also present an opportunity to try something new. Swapping in rutabagas for potatoes is a great place to start. Though they are more popular in northern European countries with cool climates, rutabagas — sometimes called “Swedish turnips” or even just “swedes” — are a cross between turnips and cabbage, and they make earthy, sweet accompaniments for hearty fall comfort foods.

Rutabagas are exceptionally healthy, too. A mediumsize rutabaga has only 145 calories and delivers nearly half of your daily recommended amount of vitamin C. “That’s great for protecting cells from damage by free radicals, and aiding the development and repair of tissues,” says Dr. Adetunji Toriola, a Washington University associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center.

Although tomatoes usually get all the good press for containing lycopene, a powerful antioxidant, rutabagas are filled with them too. “When you eat foods with antioxidants, they’re broken down and can protect against cellular damage and boost immune response. They also help prevent against infection, and they reduce cellular wear and tear,” Dr. Toriola explains. That’s particularly important this time of year — cold and flu season officially

kicks of in November, so having Dr. Adetunji a robust immune system Toriola to attack viruses and fight Washington University associate infections is crucial. professor of surgery at Rutabagas contain about Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER the same amount of fiber as potatoes, but they’re lower in calories and carbohydrates.

“They also have a good amount of potassium — almost twice as much as regular turnips,” Dr. Toriola says. “This can help with cardiovascular health and blood pressure, and can keep muscles and bones strong. It also has plenty of magnesium and calcium, which are great for bone health.”

With their rough-looking skin and squat shape, it’s true that rutabagas are not the most visually appealing vegetable. But don’t let that dissuade you from picking one up — they are incredibly versatile. They can be mashed or diced, spiralized into noodles, added to soups and stews, roasted, baked or fried, or even shaved into thin strips and eaten raw. (If it’s your first time cooking with them, be aware that rutabagas are often sold coated with paraffin wax to keep them fresh, so be sure to remove it.)

When used in place of potatoes, rutabagas add a depth of flavor to classic recipes, and they bolster the body’s defenses. That’s a win-win by any measure!

in good taste

LAURENTIAN Laurentian rutabagas are similar in many ways to the American Purple Top, but this one has a Canadian accent. Most popular among our friends to the north (and in the Pacific Northwest, where they are also grown), Laurentians are usually oval with yellow flesh that becomes creamy when cooked.

Their golden color is a tipoff to the carotenoids and vitamin C that are held within, both great for the immune system and cell development.

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Simple and Healthy

Roasted Rutabaga YIELDS | 2 SERVINGS

MACOMBER Just as Gilfeathers are crosses between turnips and rutabagas, Macombers are crosses between rutabagas and radishes, thanks to the pollination that happened when brothers Elihu and Adin Macomber planted rutabaga seeds next to radishes on their Westport, Massachusetts farm. The result was a vegetable that combines the sweetness of rutabagas with the slight bitterness of radishes, an enduring point of pride for the residents of Westport.

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1 medium rutabaga, peeled and cut into cubes ½ yellow onion, diced 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp garlic powder ½ tsp salt ½ tsp pepper

GILFEATHER

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

| preparation | Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Peel rutabaga and cut into small cubes. Dice onion. Mix rutabaga and onion with the rest of the ingredients. Place rutabaga mixture onto a baking sheet and bake for 40 minutes.

NUTRITION INFORMATION: 224 CALORIES, 20G FAT, 594MG SODIUM, 10G CARBOHYDRATE, 2G FIBER, 2G PROTEIN

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

Rutabagas are often described as “kind of like turnips,” and that’s particularly true for the varietal known as Gilfeather, a genetic cross between the two root vegetables that was dreamed up by Vermont farmer Jack Gilfeather. Gilfeather leaves are edible and reminiscent of kale while its white flesh is pleasantly sweet and mild. Roasting them brings out their best qualities.

thanksgiving

Sweet Potato-Sage Rolls yields 9 rolls 1 ¼ 1 2 1 4 ½ 3 8 1

cup milk, lukewarm cup sugar Tbsp dry yeast eggs, divided egg yolk cups flour, plus additional for forming rolls lb sweet potato, roasted and diced tsp salt, divided Tbsp butter, room temperature tsp chopped sage nonstick cooking oil spray

If you’re like me, there is nothing more satisfying then the aroma – and flavor – of freshly baked bread. These rolls are made from an enriched dough, featuring sweet potato and butter, so they are deliciously moist and perfect for soaking up every bit of sauce at the table.

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour milk into the bowl of a stand mixer fixed with a dough hook; stir in sugar and yeast. Allow yeast to blossom for 5 minutes before adding 1 egg and egg yolk; mix to combine.

Continue mixing and slowly pour in flour, sweet potato and 1 teaspoon salt.

Once dough starts to come together, add butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until fully incorporated; add chopped sage and mix in. Dough will be very sticky.

Cover and let rise for 1 hour.

Ideal for a chilly day, the warmth of the poblano and cumin are a perfect complement to the subtle sweetness of the sweet potato in this soup. I love the idea of serving a deep bowl of it during the holidays; whether it’s enjoyed the day it’s made or the day after, the flavors marry quite well with the season.

Sprinkle flour on a clean work surface.

Transfer dough to work surface and knead with more flour until dough comes together. Divide into 10 equal portions. Place rolls in a greased 9-by-9-inch baking pan, leaving space between. Cover and let the rolls rise for 30 minutes. Whisk remaining egg and brush on rolls; sprinkle remaining salt on top. Bake in oven for 12 to 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Poblano-Sweet Potato Soup serves 4 to 6 1 1 5

3 1 4 1 1 1 ½ 1

Tbsp olive oil red onion, diced cloves garlic, diced salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste poblano peppers, roasted, peeled and finely diced lb sweet potato, diced cups chicken stock cup chopped cilantro, divided tsp cumin can (1 lb 13 oz) hominy cup crumbled Cotija cheese avocado, sliced (for garnish)

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over

medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic, season with salt and pepper to taste; cook until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add poblano peppers and sweet potato; cook for 2 minutes.

Add chicken stock, half cilantro and cumin. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until potato is tender. Add hominy and remaining cilantro and season to taste. Divide in bowls and garnish with Cotija and sliced avocado. Serve. / nov e mbe r 2 019

63

thanksgiving

Cult Classic For a more tradit ional take on sweet potato gratin with maple-marshmall ow crème, visit feastmagaz ine.com/ thanksgiving.

Spanish tortilla is one of my favorite dishes to have on hand at any time of the year, but during the height of sweet potato season, I love to combine sweet potatoes with the traditional Yukon Gold for a different flavor.

(I use Garnet for this recipe, but any variety will do.) It’s perfect as a side dish or lovely on its own topped with a dollop of aïoli.

Sweet Potato Tortilla serves 6 to 8 You can find pimentón

Pimentón Aïoli in most international 1 garlic clove, grated markets around town. ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp olive oil juice and zest of ½ lemon 2 tsp pimentón salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste assembly 2½ cups olive oil 1½ lbs sweet potato, washed and thinly sliced ½ lb Yukon Gold potato, washed and thinly sliced 1 onion, julienned 10 eggs, beaten salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste pimentón aïoli (recipe follows)

/ preparation – pimentón aïoli / In a bowl, combine all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Braised greens are a wonderful addition to any festive gathering. Here, I’ve highlighted kale and the Korean purple sweet potato, which adds a beautifully nutty flavor to the recipe. This dish is a snap to make: You’ll be savoring your first bite in less than 20 minutes.

Korean purple Sweet Potato and Kale Sauté serves 4 2 2 ½ 2

½ 1 1 1 1

Tbsp olive oil Tbsp chopped ginger red onion, julienned cloves garlic, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste lb Korean purple sweet potato, large dice cup water Tbsp fish sauce Tbsp brown sugar bunch Lacinato kale, chopped

/ preparation / Heat a medium sauté pan over medium

to high heat. Add olive oil, ginger, onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until onion is translucent, 2 minutes, and add sweet potato. Season sweet potato with salt and pepper to taste and then add water, fish sauce and brown sugar; stir and cover. Cook until liquid is nearly gone and potato is tender, approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Remove lid and add kale. Remove from heat and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve warm or cold.

64

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

/ assembly / Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a 9-inch cast-iron pan over medium heat; add oil. Once oil is hot, add potato and onion. Oil will begin to bubble; reduce heat slightly and cook undisturbed until potato is tender, approximately 10 minutes. Transfer potato and onion to a heatproof bowl using a slotted spoon; discard oil.

Once potato has cooled slightly, add eggs and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix gently until eggs are fully incorporated. Heat cast-iron pan, again to medium heat, and pour in potato-egg mixture. Let cook for 2 to 3 minutes and then place in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until firm. Remove from oven and set to cool for approximately 10 minutes. Place a plate over the cast-iron pan and flip carefully so that the tortilla slides out of the pan. Serve warm, at room temperature or cold, with a dollop of pimentón aïoli.

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65

! e k a iit

h S y l o H

after almost three decades as the owner of oz a r k f o r e st m u s h r o o m s , nicola macpherson has cemented her place as one of the top producers of shiitake and oyster mushrooms in missouri. story and photography by tessa cooper

66

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

N

ear Eminence, deep in the heart of Missouri, the forest is rich with towering white oak trees and crystalline springs. But look a bit closer, and you’ll see that these are no ordinary woods.

Rows and rows of white oak logs stand propped against tree trunks, a platoon awaiting its orders. Nearby, dozens of other logs bathe in bright blue cattle troughs that resemble backyard swimming pools, where they soak for 24 hours before falling in line with the others. Soon, they will sprout tiny white dots the size of a pencil eraser, which will burgeon into tan umbrella-shaped caps rolling inward to reveal the creamy white gills of shiitake mushrooms.

This is Ozark Forest Mushrooms, where owner Nicola Macpherson cultivates some of the most prized mushrooms in the state.

thanksgiving

The same year as Macpherson’s visit, Hellmuth and his family attended a conference on shiitake mushroom farming and quickly realized they had the resources to grow their own. The microclimate in their little corner of the Ozarks has all the right ingredients for mushroom farming, including freshwater springs, a shady canopy of oak trees and thick humidity; atmospheric conditions at the farm are similar to climates in East Asia, where shiitake mushrooms are native. Unlike other mushroom varieties that can grow on just about anything, shiitakes are wood-digesting fungi (“shii” means “hardwood trees” in Japanese, while “take” translates to “mushroom”). Shiitakes can only be grown on sawdust or oak logs, though many chefs will argue that the flavor of oak-grown shiitakes – such as Macpherson’s – is simply superior.

“Ozarks farmers live a hardscrabble life,” says Macpherson. “There isn’t a lot of soil down here and the timber is not particularly good; it’s not easy to make money. However, growing shiitake mushrooms is something at which we can thrive – you just have to be willing to deal with a few cuts, scrapes and ticks along the way.”

With land in the Ozarks and knowledge of biology and agriculture, Macpherson launched Ozark Forest Mushrooms and began cultivating mushrooms in 1990.

The first round of logs was really more of a hobby: “We were as surprised as anyone that it worked,” she says. Excited and optimistic, she decided to increase their six logs to 100 the following year. Backed by steady success, Ozark Forest Mushrooms now has approximately 20,000 logs that yield different strains and ages of shiitakes. “You could say things really mushroomed,” Macpherson says with a laugh.

on any given day, you can find macpherson out and about picking the fruits of her labor.

Macpherson, a spunky English native from the Welsh Borders, met Daniel Hellmuth, the son of an architect/ farmer from southeast Missouri, in 1976 while they were both studying at the University of Sheffield. After graduating, Macpherson became a biology teacher and hobby farmer. In 1987, she came to the U.S. on holiday and reunited with Hellmuth, during which time the two friends fell in love; they got married the following year.

Although Macpherson had heard stories about the Hellmuth family farm before her first visit, some things still surprised her. “The farm is so different from where I grew up,” she says. “The first time I visited, it was July and it was hot. I had been to India before and I thought, ‘Oh my gosh, it’s as hot as India here!’ To me, Missouri is almost tropical. I had never seen hummingbirds, turtles nor snakes before I came here.”

Although white oaks grow in abundance on the farm, Macpherson currently outsources logs to give the piece of land she uses a chance to regenerate.

Sustainable farming practices are important to her: The oak logs, once they’ve outlived their term as mushroom hosts, are burned during the winter months to heat the greenhouse where she also grows oyster mushrooms. “We try to use every part of the tree, and we never clearcut,” she says. “We want the forest to still be here in 20, 30, 40 years; we want it to be there for our children and grandchildren.” Macpherson’s emphasis on sustainability sets her apart, in addition to the fact that her company is one of the few commercial operations left in the U.S. that grows shiitakes on logs rather than sawdust by-products often from clearcut timber crops.

From the beginning, chefs across the region have respected and valued Ozark Forest Mushrooms’ products for their unparalleled flavor and texture, allowing the farm to expand and become a pioneer of the state’s food scene. “We were doing all that farm-to-table stuff more than 20 years ago, before it was trendy,” says Macpherson, adding, “Although we called it ‘tree-to-table.’”

PICTURED opposite Nicola Macpherson picks shiitake mushrooms from white oak logs at Ozark Forest Mushrooms.

PICTURED above top Farm manager David Enloe soaks logs in cold spring water tanks for 24 hours before shiitakes can grow.

PICTURED above bottom Logs incubate in a shade house on the farm.

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

67

Growing shiitakes, on the other hand, is a much more labor-intensive process. Once the trees lose their leaves and sap flow slows down in late fall, Macpherson and farm manager David Enloe – with help from a local inoculation crew and two cordwood timber cutters – take logs of white oak and drill a diamond pattern of 12-millimeter-deep holes in each. Next, they use a special inoculating tool – think turkey baster – to inject the holes with mushroom spawn and then coat the injection sites with hot food-grade cheese wax, which acts as a Band-Aid, stopping the spawn from drying out and protecting it against contaminants.

cook with ozark forest mushrooms at home.

Visit feastmagazine.com for three recipes to cap off your Thanksgiving meal.

Once the logs are prepared, they incubate in a shade house, an outdoor structure covered with shade cloth to ensure that it remains cool when temperatures rise. After nine to 12 months, fuzzy white threads of mycelium (the vegetative part of a fungus) begin to sprout from the logs. To keep the logs moist during this period, the shade house allows for rain to trickle inside, and in times of drought, an overhead sprinkler system mists the logs.

Over the years, Macpherson has learned to adapt to the challenges that accompany mushroom farming. For example, when the farm flooded in 1993, dousing the mushrooms with too much moisture, she salvaged them with a food dehydrator and started selling dried mushrooms.

“Opportunities come and go, little disasters strike, but we continue to figure it out and forge ahead,” she says.

A number of years ago, chefs began requesting more variety, so Macpherson started growing oyster mushrooms alongside the shiitakes. Now, countless strains of velvety oyster and shiitake mushrooms, some with kitsch names such as Niche Happiness, thrive on the farm. Certain types grow better in spring and fall, such as Snow Cap, a strain of shiitake that produces uniform, thick-fleshed mushrooms with textured, stark white caps. Others love the summer heat, such as Night Velvet, another strain of shiitake that develops discernible deep brown caps with lacey ornamentation. Macpherson welcomes diversity to extend the growing season.

“We were doing all that farm-to-table stuff more than 20 years ago, before it was trendy; Although we called it ‘tree-to-table.’”

-nicola Macpherson

Ozark Forest Mushrooms purchases grow bags that sprout oyster mushrooms, making the growing process much simpler than that of shiitake mushrooms. Macpherson stores the bags in a humid tent inside the aforementioned 3,500-square-foot greenhouse, where they yield brown, gray and yellow oyster mushrooms.

Their broad, fan-like caps have curled edges that become wavy and lobed with maturity, and they release a bittersweet aroma reminiscent of anise. The canary yellow variety are startling in their beauty, so much so that it’s hard to believe they’re fungi. When cooked, all three colors have a mild, nutty flavor and delicate texture – part of their global appeal.

68

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

PICTURED here Oyster mushrooms sprout from grow bags in a greenhouse on the farm.

thanksgiving

When the time is right, the logs are transferred to cold spring water tanks, where they soak for 24 hours, after which point, Enloe props them vertically in the forest and covers them with a humidity cloth. Depending on how hot and humid it gets, the mushrooms are ready to be picked in five to 10 days.

While Macpherson is out picking mushrooms, she's been known to sneak a handful or two for a snack; when eaten fresh, shiitake mushrooms have a surprising, yet delightful, garlicky aftertaste. “I never get tired of eating shiitakes because of their meatiness and uniquely woodsy flavor,” she says.

O

Many St. Louis diners are familiar with Ozark Forest Mushrooms – although sometimes unknowingly – as its products are a favorite among some of the city’s best chefs. Meatier and tastier, with less stem and less water weight, than those of its competitors, the Ozarkgrown mushrooms are found in dishes ranging from the Mushroom & Ricotta pizza at the U.R.B. (Urban Research Brewery) to Farmhaus Restaurant’s Roasted Ozark Forest Mushroom Salad with the farm’s shiitake and oyster mushrooms plated alongside kale, toasted Missouri pecans, Baetje Farms goat cheese and a warm bacon vinaigrette. At Annie Gunn’s Restaurant in Chesterfield, Missouri, shiitake, oyster and French horn mushrooms are often grilled for salads, sautéed for pan sauces and even pickled. Its grilled lamb loin chops are served with chutney made from Ozark Forest Mushrooms. “I choose Ozark Forest Mushrooms because I love the quality of the product,” says executive chef Lou Rook III. “Nicola is incredible. Her mushroom varieties give me a perfect canvas to work with.”

At Yellowbelly – a restaurant best known for its seafood – executive chef Ben Tulin incorporates the mushrooms in a small plate of braised pork belly with watermelon radish kimchi. “I love how the sharp, earthy flavors [of Ozark Forest Mushrooms] are strong enough to hold up next to the punch of the kimchi in the dish,” says Tulin. “These specific mushrooms have a delicate texture, which provides a really nice counterbalance to the rich, tender pork.”

For those interested in cooking with the mushrooms at home, dried shiitakes – in bulk or packaged with spices and seasonings – are available at ozarkforest.com. Ozark Forest Mushrooms also operates a stand at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and sells its products at St. Louisarea grocery stores, including Local Harvest Grocery, City Greens Market and Fair Shares CCSA.

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

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thanksgiving

decadent

recipes to wrap up your holiday meal

–

because life’s too short to skip dessert

O

story, recipes and photography by julia calleo

ne of my favorite things about the holidays is being introduced to something new on the menu. There are, of course, staples I look forward to, but it’s also fun to transform classic flavors into surprising sweets. In each of these recipes, I present a creative take on seasonal desserts without losing the comfort-food appeal of their ingredients.

/ nov e mbe r 2 019

71

Pumpkin Pie Cake Donuts with Cream Cheese Glaze

Creative and fun, you can

yields 12 donuts

sneak pieces of this popcorn bark throughout the day. It’s light enough that it won’t spoil your dinner, but it’ll still tickle your taste buds with something startling and sweet. Around the holidays,

After a heavy holiday dinner that invariably induces belt loosening and open-mouthed yawning, a steaming cup of hot chocolate or spiked cider can be a wonderful alternative to an overly rich dessert. I have these homemade marshmallows on hand for every party, as they can brighten up any wintry beverage – however, no judgment if you choose to eat them all on their own.

I like to leave little bowls of

Cream Cheese Glaze 4 oz cream cheese, softened ¹⁄₈ cup whole milk 1 tsp vanilla extract ¾ cup powdered sugar

Make sure not to grab pumpkin pie filling. There should be no added flavor.

it scattered

Maple Marshmallows

/ preparation – donuts / Preheat oven to

around the

yields 16 2-inch marshmallows

aside. In a bowl, whisk together flour, baking

house to really set the mood.

Dark Chocolate-Popcorn Bark with Maple-Caramel Glaze serves 8 to 10 Maple-Caramel Glaze ¾ cup maple syrup 3 Tbsp whole milk 2 Tbsp unsalted butter ½ tsp baking soda pinch of salt Dark Chocolate-Popcorn Bark 10 cups plain popcorn ¾ cup maple-caramel glaze (recipe follows) 1½ cups melted dark chocolate, divided 1 Tbsp Maldon sea salt

/ preparation – maple-caramel glaze / In a small pot over medium heat, add maple syrup.

Stirring, bring syrup to a boil; continue stirring, approximately 15 minutes. (Syrup will start to bubble and stick to sides of pot.) Lower heat and add milk and butter, stirring occasionally until butter has melted. Remove from heat and whisk in baking soda and salt. Allow to cool for 1 to 2 minutes before pouring over popcorn. / preparation – dark chocolate-popcorn bark / Preheat oven to 275°F. Set rack to middle and line baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread popcorn out on baking sheet. Pour maple-caramel glaze all over popcorn. Place in oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, tossing popcorn every 15 minutes until desired consistency is reached (30 minutes for semi-chewy, 40 minutes for more crunch). Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

2 2 1 1 ¼ 1 ¹⁄₈

½-oz packets gelatin Tbsp, plus 1 tsp, cold water cup boiling water cup maple syrup cup granulated sugar Tbsp vanilla extract tsp salt powdered sugar, sifted, for dusting

powder, cinnamon and salt; set aside. In a separate bowl, combine remaining ingredients.

Add flour mixture to pumpkin mixture and fold together until just mixed. Fill donut pans with batter until each mold is almost full. Bake in oven for 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven and let stand 1 minute; turn pan over on a wire rack and leave donuts to cool to room

cake pans and flour them; set aside. In a

temperature. Once cooled, drizzle with cream

heat-resistant bowl, add gelatin and cold

cheese glaze.

water; stir until a thick, rubbery paste forms.

Add boiling water; stir until the rubbery paste dissolves and then immediately add maple syrup, sugar, vanilla and salt. Transfer to the

/ preparation – cream cheese glaze / In a large bowl, add all ingredients and whisk together until smooth.

bowl of a stand mixer and mix on medium-low speed for approximately 15 minutes, until meringue-like consistency forms. Evenly divide mixture between pans and place in refrigerator to set, 6 to 12 hours. Once marshmallow has set, it will be fairly firm, with little bounce back when pressed.

Dust a clean work surface with powdered sugar. Remove pans from refrigerator and add a little flour to marshmallow mixture so you can handle it without it sticking to everything. Carefully run a knife around the edge of the pan and transfer marshmallow from pan to powdered sugardusted work surface.

Cut marshmallow into desired shapes (you can stick with squares

(leaving approximately ¼ cup for drizzling). Scatter maple-caramel corn across chocolate.

or use greased or floured

Drizzle remaining chocolate on top of popcorn and sprinkle with salt. Set aside to cool until

cookie cutters for more

chocolate has hardened, approximately 30 minutes (or 10 to 15 minutes in the refrigerator). Once

festive forms). Place in an

chocolate has set, use your hands to break bark into 2-inch chunks.

airtight container to store.

feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 1 9

350°F. Grease two nonstick donut pans; set

/ preparation / Grease two 9-by-9-inch

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and pour melted dark chocolate onto it

72

Pumpkin Pie Cake Donuts 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1½ tsp salt 1½ cups canned pumpkin purée ¼ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup melted butter 3 eggs ¾ cup granulated sugar ½ cup brown sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract

Sick of dishing out the same old pumpkin pie year after year?

This recipe takes those scrumptious flavors and packs them into hearty cake donuts drizzled with rich cream cheese glaze, satisfying your most intrinsic Thanksgiving cravings.

thanksgiving

There are

Crust is hands down

countless

my favorite part of

applications

any pie, and these

for caramelized

hand pies present the

apples; for this

ideal crust-to-filling

recipe, I’ve chosen

ratio. They’ll give

to pair them with

your dessert spread

the incredibly

a new look without

adaptable pavlova.

sacrificing any

A crisp crust gives

beloved flavor.

way to a soft, airy inside, and

Pecan Hand Pies

topped with the

yields 12 pies

warming apples,

crust 1 cup, plus ¼ tsp, all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp, plus 1 tsp, granulated sugar 1 tsp salt 3 Tbsp chilled coconut oil, cut into ½-inch pieces 5 Tbsp chilled butter, cut into 5 pieces 4-6 Tbsp ice water

it’s the perfect way to wrap up any holiday meal.

I love the idea of serving this dessert alongside a giant scoop of ice cream.

Layered Pavlova with Caramelized Apples serves 6 Meringue 5 egg whites (almost room temperature) 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp cream of tartar ¾ cup sugar

Be sure to choose crisp apples whose texture will stand up nicely to the caramelizing process.

Caramelized Apples 4 Tbsp unsalted butter 4 Granny Smith apples, peeled and chopped into ½-inch chunks

juice of 1 lemon (about 2 Tbsp) 1 Tbsp water ¼ cup sugar

/ preparation – meringue / Preheat oven to 250°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add egg whites, vanilla extract and cream of tartar. Mix over medium speed until eggs become frothy, then turn speed to medium-high until pillowy mounds begin to form. Continue to mix, gradually adding sugar until stiff peaks form. (The entire process takes 4 to 5 minutes.) Equally divide mixture into three large mounds on 1 or 2 baking sheets as needed; smooth each mound into a 6to 8-inch round cake shape. Place baking sheet on middle rack in oven and bake for

Pecan Filling ¹⁄₃ cup light brown sugar ¾ cup pecans, finely chopped ¼ tsp salt ¹⁄₃ cup dark corn syrup 1 egg yolk 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted ½ tsp vanilla extract

/ preparation – crust / In a food processor, add flour, sugar and salt. Pulse for 3 to 4 minutes, until blended. Add chilled coconut pieces; pulse for 6 to 8 minutes, until fat is almost completely cut into flour mixture. Add chilled butter; pulse for 6 to 8 minutes, until butter is cut into flour mixture. Transfer mixture to a large bowl; add 4 tablespoons ice water and fold together with a spatula until dough starts to stick together. If it is still too crumbly, add ½ tablespoon of cold water at a time, folding in until dough sticks together. Once dough begins to form, transfer to a clean work surface. Using your hands, quickly form into a ball and then flatten into an 8-inch disk (you don’t want the heat from your hands to melt any of the fats). Tightly wrap disk in plastic wrap and place in refrigerator for at least 45 minutes, or until you’re ready to use it. / preparation – pecan filling / In a mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, pecans and salt. Add remaining ingredients and fold together.

Set aside.

1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until tops are smooth and firm. Turn oven off and allow

/ assembly / Flour a clean work surface. Remove dough from

meringue to dry completely in oven, approximately 2 hours. Remove from oven and

refrigerator and roll out on work surface. Press a 6-inch circular

store at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

cookie cutter into dough to create a base. Remove base from

/ preparation – caramelized apples / In a small saucepan, add all ingredients.

Heat on medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid reduces slightly, apples soften and mixture thickens, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool at room temperature before use.

dough, lay it on work surface separately and add 3 tablespoons of filling to bottom half. Add egg wash around the edges of the base.

Fold over and press edges together with fork tines. Repeat with 11 more circles. Set in refrigerator to chill, approximately 10 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

/ assembly / Take one meringue layer and add ¼ cup caramelized apples to top.

Remove hand pies from refrigerator and transfer to baking sheet.

Spread over top until apple mixture meets the rim of the meringue. Place another

Brush egg wash over the top of each pie and with a sharp knife,

meringue layer on top and repeat. Add the last layer of meringue and cover with all

make an X on top of each. Bake in oven for 15 to 25 minutes, or until

remaining apples. Smooth top and serve with an optional scoop of ice cream.

golden brown. Remove and set on wire rack to cool. Serve warm. / nov e mbe r 2 019

73

Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros:

What’s your favorite Thanksgiving dish?

Zoë Robinson

owner

I Fratellini, Bar Les Frères and Billie-Jean Clayton, Missouri

PHOTO BY amanda wilens

“I love Thanksgiving and all that it has to offer. If I had to choose one dish – which makes me sad because they all work so well together – it would have to be stuffing. It doesn’t matter what kind: I usually make one the tried-and-true way with great bread, celery, onion, hazelnuts and dried cherries.

But it’s fun to make a second to see if it will become a tradition – maybe with sausage, cornbread, oysters or pancetta and pine nuts. So far, none have stuck, but I will try year after year!”

Caitlin Corcoran co-owner

Liz Huff chef-owner

Mary Bogacki chef-owner

Damien Tiregol chef-owner

Leigh Lockhart chef-owner

Ça Va

Catalpa

Yolklore

Crabby’s

Main Squeeze

Kansas City

arrow rock, Missouri

Crestwood, Missouri

Joplin, Missouri

columbia, Missouri

“My mom is a great cook and truly

“My favorite part of our holiday

“My favorite Thanksgiving dish is

“Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the

“Thanksgiving is my favorite

goes all out for this holiday. If I had

meals is my Aunt Jane’s curried

my grandma's spinach soufflé. It's

same without yams. We roast

holiday because the sentiment

to pick just one dish, I would pick

fruit – she’s such a great cook.

a combination of a casserole and

them, then mash them with butter,

behind it is very cool, but mostly,

this cauliflower-Dijon-aïoli-Comté

It’s full of apricots, peaches,

fluffy egg dish – it’s cheesy, melty

heavy cream, cinnamon, ground

because the traditional meal is

[cheese] situation, where she

pears, pineapple and cherries.

and a great accompaniment to the

ginger and nutmeg. After adding

super easy to make vegetarian!

covers a whole head of cauliflower

The best part of the whole thing

traditional fare. The best part is

streusel topping and roasted

It’s a really tough call between

in Dijon [mustard], aïoli and

is soaking up the curried juices

eating the leftovers for breakfast!

pecans, we bake them like a

mashed potatoes – I like to spike

shredded Comté and bakes it. As

with a roll. I’m so blessed to be

It's even amazing cold (the sign of a

casserole and finish them with a

mine with tiny beet cubes for

an adult, I’ve taken this over and do

able to go to my aunt’s house

perfect Thanksgiving dish).”

mixture of maple syrup and honey.

that wow factor – and stuffing,

it a little differently with the same

and enjoy her cooking instead

This dish says it’s Thanksgiving to

but I guess I would choose

flavors. The main difference is that

of cooking myself. It makes me

me. I only eat it once a year, and

stuffing as my favorite dish. I

I separate the florets and fry them

happy just thinking about it!”

it’s worth the wait!”

only eat it once a year, and let’s

first. It’s usually garnished with

face it, mashed potatoes are a

toasted spiced pumpkin seeds.”

food group in my world.”

74

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75

HAPPY

POINTS GIVING! DON’T FORGET TO CASH IN YOUR SCHNUCKS REWARDS POINTS FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

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