December 2021 Feast Magazine

29 LOCAL SPOTS THAT ARE SETTING THE STandard

Awonderland forgifts

Redefining theDiningExperience.

Withmorethan9,400squarefeetofspacespreadacrossmultiplelevels,includingan open-airedrooftopbarandalargeoutdoorcoveredpatio,JunctionHouseoffersallofthe optionsyouneedtohostasophisticatedyetcasualdininganddrinkingexperience.Both therooftopandpatiofeaturefull-servicebars,loungeareas,firepits,watermisters,and outdoorheaterssothatguestsfeelcomfortableallyearlong.JunctionHouse’sinterior privateroomholds28guestswhileallthreeareastogether(interior,patio,&rooftop)can accommodate427guests.Whenattendingaprivateevent—whetherit’sareception, corporategathering,reunion,banquet,orbirthdayparty—guestswillenjoyawide varietyofhandcraftedfoodofferingsfromJunctionHouse’sscratchkitchen,anextensive signaturecocktailmenu,andalargewinelist.Private-event,wedding,andcorporate cateringisalsoavailable.Formoreinformation,emailContact@Junction-House.com.

JunctionHouse,1311LodoraDrive,Wentzville,314-375-4855,junction-house.com

DELIGHT isAlwaysonthe Menu

With award-winning, globally recognizedExecutiveChef Brian Hardyatthehelm,delightisalways onthemenuat TheGatesworth,anexceptionalindependentseniorliving community inSt.Louis.Usingonlythe freshestseasonal ingredients, Chef Hardynotonlysetsthegeneralmenusfor TheGatesworth’s threefull-service, in-house restaurants, buthe workswiththeindividual residentstocustom-createmenus.

To Chef Hardy, creatingcustom menusisaboutmore thanmeetingdietary requirements;it’s aboutsurpriseanddelight, engagingthesensesandstimulatingthe palateofeachunique resident.

“A healthy,well-balanced,fully customizeddietissomethingeveryresident of TheGatesworthhasalways enjoyed,” Hardyexplains

“In many establishments,you’llfind processedfood;that’s notour way at TheGatesworth,” hesays.“We bringthingsin anddotheworkourselves, bringingin fresh fruitsandvegetables, andhigh-quality, local ingredients.We doallourbaking, butchering andbriningin-house.We peel,blancheand prepare vegetablesbyhand. Mosteverything ismade fromscratch. It’s nottheeasiest way, butit’s thebest way to retainflavor andnutrients.”

Accordingto Hardy, thedifference beginswiththestaff.The renownedkitchen staffmembersholdthemselvestothehighest standards, andnearlyevery individualwho trainswith TheGatesworthis a graduate of a culinary programorhasgonethrough

anapprenticeship, withsomehavingeven competedworldwide.

“My staffand I are like thepersonal chefsofeachandeveryresidentthatlives here at TheGatesworth,” heexplains. “Everyoneisunique, soevery diet we create is, too.Fromthemoment I meet a new resident, I become a studentoftheirtastes, likes, dislikes, healthneeds, dietary goals, etc. Iwanttoknowthemcompletely, so I can providethemwiththebestnutrition, variety andtastepossible.”

Thesestandardsdonotgounnoticedby the residents, many ofwhomhavenamed thediningoneofthefirst-classfeaturesof thecommunity.“Thefoodisalways excellent here,” saysresident Carol Max. “ChefBrian Hardywillcooktoorderfor youifthere is somethingspecial youwouldlike, whichhe hasdoneformemany times.”

“Our residentsprovidetheinspiration andsometimeseventhe recipes,”Hardy adds.“Ourkitchencanprepare pretty much anything, and we lovethechallengeoftrying tobring aresident’s belovedfamily recipeto life.It’s allaboutthatpersonaltouch.”

EXECUTIVECHEFBRIANHARDY

The2020 recipientofthe Dr. L.J. MinorChef Professionalism Awardfrom St.Augustine, Florida’s distinguishedAmerican Culinar yFederation, Hardy ispassionateaboutproviding thehighestquality of foodand servicetoTheGatesworth.

TheGatesworthisnowwelcomingne wresidents! Formore information, orto experienceTheGatesworth’s personaltouch,pleasecontactus We’d lovetomeetyou! 314-993-0111|THEGATESWORTH.COM

RECIPES BY DARIAN BRYAN

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY CAPTIVA MARKETING

PECAN AND HERB CRUSTED PRIME RIB

YIELDS: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

• 1 boneless Linz prime rib roast 8-10 pounds

• 10 garlic cloves

• ¼ cup Dijon mustard

• 6 Tbsp each fresh rosemary & thyme

• 2 cups fresh pecan pieces

• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs

• 1 tsp kosher salt

• Fresh black pepper

• 2 large carrots

• 2 large celery ribs

• 3 onions

SAUCE AU JUS:

• 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

• ½ cup red wine

• 2 cups beef stock

• 1 ½ Tbsp salted butter

• 2 Tbsp flour

| PREPARATION | Season the Linz prime rib with a generous amount of salt and pepper and allow to sit at room temperature for 1 hour. It’s important not to put a cold prime rib into a hot oven, otherwise it will cook unevenly. Pre-heat oven to 325°F.

Prepare the pecan topping by adding the pecans to a food processor (or chop by hand) along with the rosemary, thyme, panko breadcrumbs, garlic, salt, a few cracks of pepper; process until combined. Set aside.

Rub Dijon mustard over the top of the prime rib and apply the pecan topping, making sure to press in firmly so the rub sticks. Transfer the prime rib roast to the roasting pan with veggies. Cook for 2 ½ hours until the internal temperature reaches 120°F for medium-rare. Allow the roast to rest for 30 minutes so the juices can re-distribute.

To make the au jus, remove prime rib roast from roasting pan, and put all the vegetables and drippings in a saucepan and add beef stock, red wine, Worcestershire sauce. Mix together the flour and butter and add in slowly to avoid clumping. Bring to a boil and taste for seasoning. Slice the roast and serve with strained au jus.

CRÈME BRÛLÉE FRENCH TOAST

YIELDS: 6 SERVINGS

• 1lb loaf brioche bread , thick-sliced

• 6 whole eggs

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 1 Tbsp cinnamon

• Pinch of nutmeg

• Pinch of salt

• 2 Tbsp vanilla extract (or substitute vanilla paste)

• 1 Tbsp butter or cooking spray for greasing the pan

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar

• Additional sugar for caramelization

| PREPARATION | Preheat oven to 375°F, bringing it to desired temperature before inserting the French toast.

Combine eggs, heavy cream, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, sugar and vanilla in mixing bowl; whisk vigorously until all ingredients combine.

Lay bread in a shallow baking dish; pour mixture over slices. Let sit for 10-20 minutes, flip over for another 15 minutes to coat both sides evenly. Most of the liquid should be absorbed.

Grease pan with cooking spray or butter. Add soaked slices to pan and place in the oven for about 10 minutes, flipping only once until golden brown on each side.

To add caramelized sugar layer, add thin layer of sugar to the top of each piece of cooked French toast and caramelize until golden brown in the broiler. You can also use a cooking torch if you have one. Then, add whatever toppings you like.

CURED MEATS CHARCUTERIE BOARD

YIELDS: 8 SERVINGS

• Volpi cured meats

- Prosciutto

- mild trio of Sopressata, Coppa and Genoa salame

- Roltini

• Cheese

- Manchego

- orange cinnamon cranberry goat cheese

- smoked apple cheddar

• Fruit

- blackberries

- red grapes

- blueberries

- kiwi

• Jams

- Orange fig spread

- Plum chutney

• Crackers of various textures and flavors

• Olives

• Nuts

| PREPARATION | Use any of the above ingredients or whatever your favorite store has on hand. Use sliced meats and fruits – and your imagination of course –to create a gorgeous charcuterie board.

SCREENING SAVES LIVES

Cancerscreeningisoneofthe mostpowerfultoolswehave againstcancer.

Notonlycanscreeningtestsfindcancerearly whenit’smoretreatable,itcanalsohelp preventsomecancersbyfindingandtreating earlyabnormalchangesincellsbeforethey haveachancetoturnintocancer.

/ 15 / mid west made

/ 16 / the mix

/ 18 / healthy appetite

/ 20 / my stery shopper

/ 22 / quick fix Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese

/ 24 / sug ar rush Candied Walnut Fudge with Smoked Sea

/ 26 / cra sh course

Do y ourholidaycocktailsneed afacelift?

Headto feastmagazine.com forvideos onho w tomake thesene w recipesthat areperfect fortheholidayseason.

APPLESANDORANGES

MADEWITH SUNTORY HAKU JAPANESECRAFT VODKA

MADEWITH MAKER’S MARK46

PEACHESANDHERBS

MADEWITH BASILHAYDENKENTUCKY STRAIGHTBOURBONWHISKEY

BREAKFAST ONTHEHILL

December 2021 Volume 11 / Issue 12

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com ontributing Editor

ontributing Editor

ontributing Editor

ontributing Editor

Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Rogan Howitt, Liz Miller, Patrick Mulvihill, Brooke Spalding, Shannon Weber,

s A les

gEnEral managEr

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

mEdia stratEgist

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

c on TA c T u s

Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

D I s T r I bu TI on

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com hotographErs

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Shelby Hall, Drew Kimble, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, J. Pollack

Photography, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Alistair Tutton, Cheryl Vaughn ontributing illustrator

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of

editor’s letter

Putting together our annual list of best new restaurants is always a challenge – and one we don’t take lightly – but this year, in particular, was no easy feat.

As we all know, COVID-19 completely upended the restaurant industry, shuttering more than 100,000 establishments and eliminating millions of jobs across the country in 2020 alone. With those sobering statistics in mind, we chose to forgo last year’s list entirely, opting instead to highlight several individuals working to create change within the industry.

While restaurants are still dealing with an additional set of challenges brought on by the pandemic, including social distancing measures, staffing shortages and supply chain issues, just to name a few, the climate feels decidedly more hopeful this year. Facing insurmountable odds, dozens of new restaurants took the plunge and opened their doors – and that, we feel, is worth celebrating.

This year, we’re excited to once again share our picks for the best and most

exciting new restaurants across the region (p. 33). These are the spots that are pushing the envelope with interesting concepts, thoughtful hospitality and, of course, incredible food and drink – and they’re the ones we keep returning to again and again. But this year’s list also reflects a changing dining landscape, featuring everything from a ghost kitchen operating out of a neighborhood watering hole (p. 34) to a mobile trailer serving vegan comfort food (p. 38) to a fine-dining restaurant crushing the to-go game (p. 41).

Whether they’re serving their food in Styrofoam containers or atop fine china, these restaurants remind us of the simple joy of dining out. And as we turn the page on another tumultuous year, all of us at Feast hope your holiday season is full of joy.

Until next time, Heather Riske editor@ feastmagazine.com

SLOWINGDOWNTOCELEBRATE THESMALL MOMENTS

SteppingintoDecemberthedaysarealittleshorterandI’mbusypreparingforthe holidays.AsItrytokeepupwiththeholidayhustle,Ifindmyselfsurroundedbylists. Grocerylistsforholidaymeals,giftlistsforfamilyandfriends,choreliststocleanand decoratethehousefor companyandprojectliststowrapupoutstanding workitems beforetheyearcloses.Althoughtheselistsaremeanttokeepmeorganized,sometimes theyaremoreofahindrancethanhelpful.Iget consumedbythetasksandfeelpressure tocrossoffalltheitemsthatImissthemomentsthat matter.

Inan ef forttochange coursethisholidayseasonI’mpushingmyliststotheside.Theywill bethereforreference,butI’mtakingtheapproachtobemorepresentandenjoyeach momentalongtheway,evenifthatmeansnotcrossingeverythingoffmylists.Instead I’mfocusingon connectingwithlovedones,sharinggreatfoodanddrinksandcreating memoriesthatbringjoyintomylife.

Reflectingonthepastyear,throughalltheupsanddowns,IcherishallthetimesI steppedbackfromthedailyto-dolistandfocusedonthesethreethings.Soasweclose outtheyear,Iproposeatoastandhopeyouwilljoinmeinraisingaglass.Let’scelebrate thesmalleverydaymomentsthatbroughtasmiletoourfacein2021andlookforwardto manymoreintheyearto come.Cheers!

SPICEDFENNEL&WINTERCITRUSSPARKLER

INGREDIENTS SPICED FENNELSYRUP

1½ozSpiced FennelSyrup

4oz grapefruitjuice

Longstripofgrapefruitpeel Grapefruitsparklingwater, orProseccoifdesired Fennelandrosemarysprigs,togarnish

PREPARATION

2cardamompods

1cinnamon stick

1tspfennelseed

½tspblack peppercorns

Peelof1 grapefruit

1 cup honey

1fennelbulb

1largerosemarysprig

Inamediumsaucepan combinecardamompods,cinnamonstick,fennelseedandblack peppercorns. Cookovermediumheat,tossingoccasionally,untiltoastedandaromatic, 2–3minutes.Cutgrapefruitpeelintostripsandaddtopanalongwith1cupwaterand 1cuphoney.Bringmixturetoasimmerand cook15minutes,stirringfrequently.Add coarselychoppedfennelbulbandrosemarytomixtureandremovefromheatand cool. Coverandrefrigerateatleast2hoursorovernight.Strainintoanairtight containerand refrigerateupto2weeks.

Ina cocktailshakerfilledwithice, combineSpiced FennelSyrupandgrapefruitjuice. Shakewellandstrainintoanice-filledglass.Squeezegrapefruitpeeloverdrinkandadd ittotheglass.Topwithsparklingwaterorwine.Garnishwithfennelandrosemarysprigs andserve.

SPONSOREDCONTENT BY ALLISONPRIMO SCHNUCKSREGISTEREDDIETITIAN

Fruit cake

Making fruitcake is no easy feat. The process requires hours – sometimes months – of work and supervision. Instead of attempting the baking challenge at home, entrust these experienced local bakers with your holiday fruitcake.

Six fruitcakes in a home economics course sparked a large-scale operation that now sells and ships thousands of fruitcakes a year. Located on the College of the Ozarks campus in Point Lookout, Missouri, fruitCAke & Jelly kitChen uses nuts and fruits in its fruitcakes. Instead of adding alcohol, the student bakers allow the natural juices from the fruit to meld together in the refrigerator for six months, creating a bright, sweet fruitcake for the whole family. store.cofo.edu/pages/fruitcake-and-jelly-history

The recipe for the fruitcake at André’s Confiserie s uisse in Kansas City comes from Swiss founder André Bollier. The fruit is soaked in a mixture of brandy, rum and simple syrup for up to a month before it’s baked in the cakes. André’s grandson René Bollier recently tweaked the original recipe, however, in order to showcase more of the spices, such as cinnamon. The fruitcakes are available in 8-ounce portions or 2-pound round cakes during the holidays. andreschocolates.com

After spending Christmases in the Middle East, dAte lAdy owner Colleen Sundlie was inspired to add a spiced fruitcake to her menu. The 1-pound rectangular fruitcake contains quintessential Date Lady ingredients, including dates, date sugar and date syrup. The fruit’s caramel notes pair perfectly with the aromatic spices in the cake, which Sundlie describes as dense but delectable. Have a fruitcake or two shipped to your door during the holiday season. ilovedatelady.com

The dark, rich fruitcakes from Assumption Abbey in Ava, Missouri, are world-famous – and we don’t use that word lightly. Crafted with care by monks who live at the monastery, the fruitcakes are sold across the globe. They’re known for their incredibly moist consistency, and they feature Burgundy wine-soaked cherries, currants, pineapple, raisins and lemon and orange peel. After baking, the cakes are injected with rum and aged for three months before they’re shipped. assumptionabbey.org

Oaxacan spiced

Imagine entering a snowdusted house filled with the scent of simmering spices and then being handed this o axacan-inspired hot chocolate. e asy to whip up, the recipe calls for Abuelita, a brand of chocolate tablets available at most l atin markets, which is combined with oat milk, cinnamon and ancho chiles. for a completely dairy-free version of the drink, I top it with whipped coconut cream, and it’s just as delicious with or without the liquor.

ServeS 5

Whipped CoConut Cream

1 Tbsp granulated sugar

1 pinch salt

1 12-oz can full-fat coconut milk

1 tsp vanilla extract

oaxaCan SpiCed hot ChoColate

32 oz oat milk

4 cinnamon sticks

2 ancho chiles

1 tablet Abuelita mezcal or tequila, optional whipped coconut cream (recipe follows) ground cinnamon, for garnish

/ preparation – whipped coconut cream /

Add all ingredients to a mixing bowl; using a hand mixer, beat until liquid has stiffened to your preference. Store in refrigerator until ready to use.

/ preparation – oaxacan spiced hot chocolate / In a Crockpot, Dutch oven or large pot, add oat milk, cinnamon sticks, chiles and chocolate; set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Stirring occasionally, cook until chocolate tablet has dissolved and mixture is warm. Decrease heat to low; simmer, at least 30 minutes, allowing ingredients to steep. Remove from heat once desired flavor is reached. Remove cinnamon sticks and chiles. Add 1½ ounces mezcal or tequila to each mug, if desired; top with hot chocolate and whipped coconut cream. Dust with ground cinnamon and serve.

FILLIng

½ cup olive oil

10 cloves garlic, minced

1 large yellow onion, small dice kosher salt

1 red bell pepper, small dice

1 green bell pepper, small dice

1 large carrot, small dice

½ lb shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 cup cilantro, minced

1 14-oz can crushed tomatoes

2 16-oz cans garbanzo beans, drained

1 15-oz can black lentils, drained

6 Tbsp capers, drained and minced

4 Tbsp dried oregano

4 Tbsp ground cumin

4 Tbsp smoked paprika

1 cup sweet red wine

Dough

2 cups olive oil

6 Tbsp ground achiote (annatto)

8 cups vegetable broth

½ cup brown sugar

2 Tbsp kosher salt, plus more to taste

1½ lbs precooked white cornmeal flour

This is the Venezuelan-style of cornmeal flour, which differs from the nixtamalized Mexican style. Look for the P.A.N. brand.

aSSEmbLY

4 lbs frozen banana leaves, thawed

1 cup raisins, soaked in sweet wine

20 whole pimento-stuffed green olives

4 stalks celery, sliced

1 leek, thoroughly cleaned and sliced

/ preparation – filling / In a Dutch oven or large pot set over medium heat, add oil, garlic, onion and a pinch of salt; cook until onion is translucent and soft, approximately 4 minutes. Add peppers, carrot, mushrooms, cilantro and a pinch of salt; stirring occasionally, cook until vegetables have softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes; bring mixture to a simmer and cook, approximately 8 minutes. Add remaining ingredients; season with salt to taste. Continue to simmer, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to rest at room temperature, approximately 30 minutes. Once cool, transfer filling to an airtight container and refrigerate overnight.

/ preparation – dough / In a small saucepan set over low heat, warm oil and achiote. Set aside.

In a large pot set over medium heat, warm vegetable broth, sugar and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the beater attachment, add flour; beat on low speed and slowly add broth. Add 1 cup achioteinfused oil; continue to mix until dough has formed (it should be moist yet firm, like cold mashed potatoes). If the dough is sticky, sprinkle in small amounts of flour as you mix. If it’s too dry, add more oil until you reach the correct consistency. Reserve remaining oil. Divide dough into 15 to 18 balls, approximately 3 ounces each. Set balls on a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out.

/ assembly / Clear a large work space, such as a dining room table. Unpack thawed banana leaves; gently spread out, unfold and wipe off any excess

YIELDS 15 to 18 haLLacaS

During the holiday season, many Latin American families spend days preparing and making tamales, which traditionally feature masa or corn dough stuffed with a hearty meat stew and wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks. Although flavor profiles vary from country to country, the masa or corn dough is the common denominator that connects the diverse cultures. The choice of filling highlights the cook’s background and creativity. Take this vegan version of hallacas (Venezuelan-style tamales), for example. As an immigrant from Venezuela, I’m intimately familiar with corn dough; it’s a generational gift and a piece of my memories. That said, I love to play with the recipe for hallacas in order to share my heritage while bringing a wide range of eaters together over a meal. After all, when cultures mesh, recipes – like people – adapt and evolve.

and recipe

water. Trim and discard center stems. Cut leaves into approximately 10-by-12-inch rectangles. Place raisins, olives, celery and leek in individual bowls.

Working with one leaf at a time, brush with reserved achiote-infused oil. Place one dough ball in the center and press into a circle, approximately ¼ inch thick. Add ½ cup cold filling to the center of the dough; top with 4 raisins, 1 olive, 4 celery slices and 1 leek slice. Bring the longer sides of the leaf together and make tight folds until meeting the filling, forming a cylinder. Fold the open ends of the leaf toward the center of the tamale, overlapping the ends to form a small pocket. Place pocket

fold-side down on another banana leaf; repeat wrapping process. Using kitchen twine, tie hallaca closed, making sure it’s compact. Repeat process with remaining dough balls.

Place hallacas in a large pot; cover with water. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat; simmer, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from water; place on wire racks to drain and cool completely. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to five days or in freezer for up to six months.

/ to serve / Reheat hallacas in a simmering pot of water. Once hot, remove from water. Cut twine and unfold banana leaves to expose the goodness inside. Serve hot.

Tuesday–Saturday: 11:00am–10:00pm

Story

by Gaby Weir Vera, pri

c olumbia, m i SS ouri

The holidays are a marathon, not a sprint, so if you need a nonalcoholic drink to sip from time to time, try kvass. Bursting with cranberry flavor from kombucha and extra fizz from fermentation, it still feels festive.

WhAt Is It?

Kvass is a fermented drink, old as time, from Slavic and Baltic countries. Similar to kombucha in effervescence and probiotic content, kvass diverges from mainstream kombucha in that it traditionally uses stale bread to start the fermentation process. In the 15th and 16th centuries, kvass was the rare equalizer: Everyone from farmers to royalty enjoyed it daily. In fact, the deeply funky drink has only experienced one notable dip in popularity during the early 1990s, when soft drinks infiltrated the region. The shift was short-lived; fastforward to today, and kvass is as popular as ever.

WhAt Do I Do WIth It?

Enjoy it on the rocks. It’s crisp and refreshing, and the toasted bread starter gives kvass a deep groove all its own. In russia, it’s often used as a base for cold soups such as okroshka with potato, egg and a cooked meat or botvinya with root greens and cream. for me, the joy of kvass is in the creation of it, which is fortunate considering how difficult it is to find in the midwest. Typically, kvass is made with only bread and maybe berries for flavor, and sugar or honey works double duty for sweetness and successful fermentation.

Look for GT’s Synergy Cosmic Cranberry, or try other flavors of kombucha such as apple, ginger and any berry.other

Spiced Cranberry Kvass

yields 64 oz

8 cups cold water

6 slices dark or regular seedless rye bread, deeply toasted

10 oz fresh or frozen cranberries, divided

2 Tbsp granulated sugar

¼ tsp active dry yeast

1 stick Ceylon cinnamon, broken in half, divided zest of 1 medium orange, peeled in strips, divided

1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, divided ²⁄₃ cup cranberry kombucha, divided

/ preparation / In a large pot, bring water to a boil and then remove from heat. Add toasted bread and 1 cup cranberries to water; cover and let sit on counter, at least 8 hours or overnight. Carefully transfer bread to a mesh strainer and press gently to squeeze any liquid back into the pot. Stir in sugar and yeast; cover and let sit on counter, 6 hours.

Divide remaining cranberries, cinnamon stick, orange zest and ginger between two 32-ounce glass jars. Stir mixture in the pot and then pour into jars. Top each with ¹⁄₃ cup cranberry kombucha; seal and shake gently to incorporate. Set jars on counter to ferment, 2 to 3 days, unsealing lids occasionally to release pressure. When kvass is slightly bubbly, transfer to refrigerator. Use within one week (kvass will get less sweet as it sits.)

/ to serve / Give kvass a gentle swirl. Pour over ice and serve chilled.

Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese

Persimmon season is fleeting, so stock up while you can and freeze any that you don’t plan to use now. Look for Fuyu persimmons, in particular, which are distinguished by their flat bottoms, squat shape and firm texture that works better for these latkes. Deep, rich orange in color, Fuyu persimmons have a mild, sweet, honeyed flavor, and they’re at their best when just barely soft.

G et Hands-On

Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 2pm on Sat., Dec. 18 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school or call 314.909.1704

Yields approximatelY 24 latkes

p ersimmon l atkes

2 large Russet potatoes

2 Fuyu persimmons

½ small yellow onion

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp cornstarch

1 tsp cumin

1 tsp kosher salt

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

¹⁄₈ tsp nutmeg

2 eggs canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil, for frying

Cream Y Go at Cheese

4 oz goat cheese

2 Tbsp water

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

For pops of color and bites of tartness, try garnishing the latkes and goat cheese with pomegranate seeds.

/ preparation – persimmon latkes / Peel and grate potatoes using the side of a box grater with the largest holes. Add potatoes to a bowl of cold water, 2 minutes (this will keep them from browning and remove excess starch). After allotted time, remove from water; squeeze out excess water and allow to dry on paper towels.

meanwhile, grate persimmons using the side of a box grater with the largest holes. Peel and grate onion using the opposite side of the box grater.

in a clean bowl, combine grated potato, persimmon and onion. Add flour, cornstarch, cumin, salt, pepper, nutmeg and eggs; mix until well combined. if the mixture looks soupy, add pinches of flour until it becomes more solid. (if your first few latkes still don’t stick together, add more flour.)

In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, heat ½ cup oil over medium high heat. Using ¼ cup mixture for each latke, add two or three latkes to pan; fry until browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Once browned, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. repeat process with remaining mixture.

/ preparation – creamy goat cheese / Add all ingredients to a food processor; blend until smooth. / to serve / top warm latkes with creamy goat cheese.

MAKE THE MEAL

• Challah

• Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese

• Slow-Roasted Salmon

• Halva

Written by Amy Feese Photogr AP hy by Jenni F er s i Lverberg

PRESENTED BY

C OCONUT S ARE W ORTHCRACKINGINT O

SPONSORED C ONTENT BYKA THERINELEWIS

Although coconuts mightbeone ofthefirstfruits that come to mind whenpicturingFloridaand theCaribbean,thatimagewas nearly erasedinthe 1970s when a disease wipedoutmillionsof palmtrees Thehearty, smallersizeFiji Dwarf wascultivatedin response,andithelped savea coconutindustry onthebrink. Today, homeowners plantthem forlandscapedecoration,and because thefruits grow lowto the ground.

KING

Whenthey’re growing, K ing coconuts havea vibrantorange colorthatdullsasthey ripen. Despite thename, K ing coconut treesaren’t as tallasmany other varietals, but coconut connoisseursconsiderthem tops in taste.They’re nativeto Sri Lanka, where they’recommonly soldonthestreet fortheir coconut water.

MACAPUNO

Crackopenthiskindofcoconut andyou’llfindneitherwaterto drinknorfleshtoeat.Instead, Macapunosarefilledwitha jelly-likesubstance,the(highly valued)resultofselectivebreeding. Macapunos’gooeytextureand sweettastemakethemnatural picksfordesserts,andthey’re especiallypopularinIndonesian andFilipinocuisines.Theyalso impartadecenthelpingofprotein.

MALAYAN DWARF

FoundthroughoutAsia, South America, Oceania,theCaribbean andFlorida,theMalayan Dwarf coconutisthemost common variety inthe world.They grow inapple-greenbunchesbut turnlight yellowwhenripe. Malayan Dwarfs’fleshis sweet and tender,excellentin baked goods, smoothiesor even eating raw. Any preparationprovidesthe body withantioxidants andother nutrients, includingmanganese, whichplaysaroleinbonehealth.

SERVES 4

RECIPEDEVELOPED BY MAGGIEALGYA,

2 Tbsp olive oil

3 cloves garlic , mincedor pres s ed

1 Tbspfresh ginger , chopped

1 yellow onion , diced

1 redbellpepper , diced

1 jalapeño (optional),minced orsliced(removeseeds for milderflavor)

13ozcan unsweetened coconutmilk

3 Tbsp redcurrypaste

1 Tbsp fish sauce

2 Tbsp brownsugar

11/2Tbsp cornstarch dissolved in11/2Tbsp coldwater

1lbraw shrimp,thawedand cleaned(oranydesiredprotein, suchaschicken,beef,tofu,fish)

Coconutsaretherarefruitthat’sequallyat homeinthesummer(refreshingcoconutwater) asitisinthewinter(warmingcurries),andthere aremanywaystoworkthemintoahealthy, balanceddietallyearlong.“Coconutfleshhasa numberofvitaminsandmineralsandisagood sourceoffiber,”saysHankDart,aWashington Universitypublichealthcommunicationsexpert atSiteman Ca ncerCenter.“ It canbeeaten fresh,shreddedorshaved,addedtodisheslike rice,soupsandcurries,andusedasatoppingon snackslikelow-fatplain yogurt,”hesays. There’smoretococonutsthantheirflesh.In additiontococonutmilkandcoconut oi l,there's alsococonutwater. It’seasytofindinstores, andif youlikeitssweet,nuttytaste,goforit— inmoderation.“ It hasagoodamountofnatural electrolytes,particularlypotassium,”Dartsays. “Thoughit’scalled‘water,’evenunsweetened coconutwaterhasanumberofcalories,which comemostlyfromitsnaturalsugars. It canvary

abit,butabout12ouncesofcoconutwatercan havearound60to70calories.”

Manycoconutproductsarehighinunhealthy saturatedfat,coconut oi linparticular.“While it’softentoutedasahealthy oi l,goodevidence islackingonitshealthbenefits,”Dartsays.“So it’sbesttolimithowmuch youuse,justlike you wouldwithbutterorother oi lshighinsaturated fat.Researchhasshownthatcomparedto healthy oi lshighinmono-andpolyunsaturated fats—likeolive oi l—coconut oi lcanraiselevels ofunhealthyLDL(low-densitylipoprotein) cholesterol.”Dartp oi ntstoa2017reportfrom theAmericanHeartAssociationthatconcluded: “Becausecoconut oi lincreasesLDLcholesterol, acauseofCVD(cardiovasculardisease),andhas noknownoffsettingfavorablee ffe cts,weadvise againsttheuseofcoconut oi l.”

Whenpossible,it’sbesttooptforunsweetened, low-fatcoconutproducts

HANK DAR T WashingtonUniversitypublichealth communicationsexpertatSiteman CancerCenter PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

“Coconutscanaddauniqueandfunblastof flavortomanydi fferenttypesoffoodsand drinks,”Dartsays.“Butbecausetheycan haveacomplexhealthprofile,it’simportant toconsiderthatwhenaddingcoconutto your mealsandsnacks,andtomakeanyadjustments so youkeepwhat you’reeatinghealthyoverall.”

Jasmine or basmatirice , preparedaccording topackage instructions

Y OURHEALTHTIPS Shrimp CoconutCurry

2 Tbspchopped Thai basil for topping

Lime wedges for serving

PREPARATION

1. Heatoilovermedium-high heatinlargepanwithgarlicand ginger.Addveggiesandcook forabout5minutes.Remove frompanandsetaside.

2. Reduce heat to medium. Add coconutmilk,currypaste, fish sauce andbrownsugar and whiskuntil well-blended. Bring toa slow boil.Dissolve cornstarchin cold waterandadd tosauce.Simmeruntilthickened forabout 4to5 minutes

3. Addshrimpand cooked veggies tosauce.Simmerand stiroccasionally untilshrimp arecooked. Serveover jasmine or basmatirice and topwith Thai basil. Squeeze lime wedge over top.

485 calories,16g fat,56g carbohydrate, 29gprotein

FIJI DWARF

Candied Walnut Fudge

with Smoked SeaSalt

In my home, the holidays aren’t complete without decadent chocolate fudge. Perfect for gifting, the salty-sweet delight can be dressed up in different ways. Here, it’s studded with buttery, caramelized walnuts, but feel free to use any of your favorite nuts or leave them out altogether.

The key to a silky texture is to not overheat the chocolate or milk mixtures. Keep the temperatures low, especially when they’re combined, and the fudge will come together beautifully.

Yields 48 1-inch squares

candied Walnuts

3 Tbsp sugar

¹⁄₈ tsp fine sea salt

2 Tbsp water

¾ cup walnuts

Fudge

12 oz 60 percent bittersweet chocolate, chopped

2 oz unsweetened chocolate

1 14-oz can sweetened condensed milk

10 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

1 Tbsp light corn syrup

¼ tsp fine sea salt

1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

¼ tsp Maldon Smoked Sea Salt Flakes, for garnish

/ preparation – candied walnuts / Line a baking sheet with a nonstick silicone baking mat or parchment paper. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, salt and water; set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved and mixture has thickened into a syrup, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in walnuts. Continue to stir until nuts are coated and sugar begins to crystallize, 1 to 2 minutes. (The nuts and the bottom of the pan will develop a coarse, powdery white coating.)

Place saucepan back over medium-high heat; stir continuously until the crystallized sugar coating on the nuts melts and caramelizes into a deep golden amber color, 3 to 4 minutes. The saucepan will begin to smoke lightly as the sugar caramelizes. Immediately, scrape candied walnuts onto the prepared baking sheet. With the back of a spoon, spread them into an even layer; set on wire rack to cool completely.

Once cool, place candied walnuts on a cutting board and chop into small pieces. Pass chopped walnuts through a fine-mesh strainer to sift out any dust; discard dust. Transfer candied walnuts to a small bowl; set aside.

/ preparation – fudge / Lightly coat an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking oil spray and then line with parchment paper on both the bottom and sides. Set aside.

In a small heat-resistant bowl, melt chocolates by heating in microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring well between each interval until the chocolate is just melted. It should be warm to the touch, but not hot. Set aside.

In a small heat-resistant bowl, combine condensed milk, butter, corn syrup, salt and vanilla bean seeds. Heat in microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring well between each interval until the butter is just melted. The mixture should be warm to the touch, but not hot.

Using a rubber spatula, stir condensed milk mixture into melted chocolate in four equal parts. The mixture will appear broken (greasy and separated) at first, but it will eventually come together. Stir mixture vigorously until smooth and shiny, approximately 3 minutes. Add half of the candied walnuts; continue to stir, 1 minute. Transfer fudge to the prepared baking pan and smooth the top into an even layer. Sprinkle with remaining candied walnuts and smoked sea salt flakes. Allow to cool and then transfer to refrigerator to chill, 2 hours.

Using the sides of the parchment paper, lift fudge from baking pan and set on a cutting board. Run a chef’s knife under hot water and then trim off all four edges (heating the blade will create clean, crisp cuts in the chocolate). Continuing to wipe, heat and dry blade between cuts, cut fudge into 1-inch squares.

5 MOS T POPULAR TYPESOF 5 MOS T POPULAR TYPESOF 5 MOS T POPULAR TYPESOF PROMOTION

cannabisedibles

Edibles,ingestiblefoodproductsthat havebeeninfusedwithcannabinoids,can takemanydifferentforms.

“EdiblescancontaineitherTHC,CBDor both,”saysBethanieWhite,directorof marketingforClovrCannabis.“TheCBD onitsowndoesn’thavepsychoactive effects,butwhenmixedwithTHC,it createsamorewell-roundedexperience.”

Thesearefiveofthemostcommonly enjoyedvarieties.

GUMMIES

Likethecandy,chewycannabisinfusedgummiesareavailableinawide rangeofshapes,colorsandfruityflavors —evensourvariations.

5 4 3 2 1

BAKEDGOODS

Marijuanabrowniesareoften whatleapstomindwhenpeoplethinkof ingestiblecannabis,althoughitcanalso make appearancesincookies,muffins, cupcakesandanyotherbaked good.

Informationprovidedis for educationalandinformational purposesonlyanddoesnot supersedeanymedicaladvicegiven by a physician.Cannabisisstill considered a schedule 1 controlled substanceandisillegalunder federallaw.Adultswhoconsume cannabismust keepcannabis productsawayfromanimalsand outofreachofchildren.Note thattheintoxicatingeffectsof cannabiscansometimesbe delayed,sodonotoperate avehicleormachinery afterconsumption.Useof cannabisduringpregnancy orwhilebreastfeeding maybeharmful.By purchasingcannabis from a dispensary,youare assumingtheriskofany damageorlossthat occursduringitsuse.

CHOCOLATES

Cannabis-infusedchocolateis anothertastytreat.ClovrCannabishas teamedupwithchocolatierChristopher Elbowtoelevatecannabischocolatebars andbonbonstogourmetlevels.

HARD C ANDY

Low-tomedium-levelin potency,cannabishardcandies,suckers, lollipopsandlozengesareconsidereda dual-absorptionproduct.

BEVERAGES

Cannabis“drinkables”and drinkmixeslikesodas,teasandcoffees presentanotheroption.Therearealso tinctures,orliquidextracts,thatcanbe addedtobeveragesordroppeddirectly underthetongueforquickabsorption.

Consumersshouldbeawarethatthe cannabiscontentcanvarybyproduct,and effectsmaydifferbyindividual.Tolearn more,gotoclovrcannabis.com.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY CLOVR C ANNABIS

Miso shines in more than soup. The Japanese superfood dates back centuries, when the thick, funky paste was used to help preserve fresh fish. Made by fermenting soybeans with salt, water and koji, miso varies in flavor depending on the ingredients and the fermentation time, but it’s typically deliciously salty and earthy.

Written by Liz Mi LL er / photography by sean Locke / i LL

Know Your Miso

Different types of miso are defined by three main factors: ingredients, color and flavor.

Shiro Miso (White)

often referred to as “sweet” miso, shiro, or white, miso gets its light color and mellow flavor from a shorter fermentation time and lower salt content. the milder miso can be used in everything from sauces to sweets and soups to marinades.

Shinshu Miso (Yellow)

slightly darker in color than shiro, shinshu miso is fermented a little longer and named for the region of Japan where it originated. shinshu miso is yellowish in color and a bit funkier than shiro yet still complements many of the same dishes.

Aka Miso (Red)

a longer fermentation time, higher salt content and higher concentration of soybeans to koji gives aka miso its dark red or brown color and a more concentrated, tangy flavor. red miso adds deep umami flavor to any dish, particularly heartier braises, marinades, glazes and stews.

“How you store miso is very important. If you store it in a hot place, it will keep fermenting, making the color darker and the flavor more sour. Make sure to store it at room temperature or in a cool place – I refrigerate it to [maintain the ideal] flavor.”

–Stephanie Liu, Omo Japanese Soul Food in Springfield, Missouri

How It's Made

Packed with probiotics, folic acid, B vitamins and vitamins E and K, miso is good for gut health; plus, it’s easy to make at home – it just takes time.

. Step 1

Soak soybeans overnight. Drain using a fine-mesh strainer. Transfer to a Dutch oven or stockpot and add enough water to cover soybeans. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 hours. Remove from heat and let beans cool to room temperature. Drain and reserve cooking water.

. Step 2

In a large mixing bowl, mash soybeans using a handheld potato masher or process them in a food processor until a paste forms (rough or smooth, based on your preference). Add some reserved cooking water, salt and koji; stir to combine. Using your hands, continue mixing, massaging mixture for approximately 10 minutes or until thick and well combined.

. Step 3 ,

Sprinkle a little salt into the bottom of a fermenting crock or nonreactive container. Form miso mixture into small round balls and transfer to the container one at a time, gently pressing them together as you go to remove air and create a well-packed mixture. Sprinkle a little salt over top and cover with a cheesecloth or plastic wrap. Weigh miso down using anything heavy – a bag of salt, pickling weight or ball bearings all work. Cover with another piece of cheesecloth or plastic wrap and tie off with kitchen twine.

. Step 4

Store in a cool, dark place to ferment for at least six months. Stir once a month or so; if mold forms on top, scrape it off (unless it’s black or neon-colored, in which case, discard miso). The total fermentation time depends on the type of miso you’re making – one-year miso is lighter in color and mellower in flavor, while two-year miso develops a dark red hue and deeper, earthier flavor. Once you’re ready to use it, transfer miso to a sealed container and refrigerate.

How to Use It

When it comes to cooking with miso at home, chef Frances Harvey suggests keeping it simple.

“I think simplicity is always best when it comes to utilizing ingredients like that, because you want the flavors to really come through,” she says. “You could make a really quick marinade for grilling –get some nice scallops or fresh fish and make a great glaze with miso, sake and a little water to thin it out.”

It’s common for both professional chefs and home cooks to lean into white miso. “It goes very well with seafood, and I think it has a deep flavor, but it isn’t as salty,” Stephanie Liu says. “Red miso has a much stronger flavor. Yellow miso is good for ramen broths, but I personally prefer white miso.”

Miso also makes a great base for salad dressing, such as Ann Bognar’s signature miso-ginger salad dressing served at Nippon Tei

of leafy lettuce, cucumber, carrot, red pepper and crispy lotus root.

Meaghan Coltrain loves to put a sweet spin on miso, as well. Earlier this year, Coltrain, executive pastry chef of Bellerive Country Club in Town and Country, Missouri, made a white miso caramel for her bakery pop-up, Nutmegs. She then used the caramel and Chinese five spice in her sticky and spicy sweet rolls at a spring bake sale.

“I really like to take savory ingredients and flip them into something sweet, so miso in caramel just made sense to me,” Coltrain says. “I make my [classic] caramel sauce, and when I’m deglazing the pan with butter, I add the miso. It comes out super fragrant, and you don’t have to use a lot – a little bit goes a long way – but it adds a lot of depth.”

Nasu De N gaku

Frances Harvey occasionally serves nasu dengaku at her Columbia pop-up, Fujiko Izakaya. The traditional Japanese dish features sliced and scored eggplant roasted and basted in a thick, glossy miso glaze.

“For Fujiko Izakaya, we really focus on Japanese pub fare, so stuff you’d find in a typical Japanese restaurant that serves a lot of small, tasty bites,” Harvey says. “Not only is [nasu dengaku] delicious, but it’s a fairly simple dish. A lot of Japanese cuisine has kind of a play on sweet and salty together, so that’s where miso really helps this recipe out.”

Recipe by F R a N

Ha R vey , chef-owner, f ujiko i zakaya

ServeS 4

4 Japanese eggplants

4 Tbsp white miso

2 Tbsp brown sugar

2 Tbsp sake

2 Tbsp mirin neutral oil sesame seeds

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut eggplants in half lengthwise; score the insides by making small incisions in a cross-hatch pattern. Soak eggplant in a large bowl of water to reduce bitterness and avoid oxidization. Set aside.

In a saucepan set over medium heat, add miso, brown sugar, sake and mirin; stir to combine. Cook, 2 minutes or until miso has thickened. Remove from heat.

Remove eggplant from water and pat dry using a clean kitchen towel. Brush with oil and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, skin-side down. Bake, 30 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and spoon miso glaze over top. Meanwhile, preheat broiler. Once broiler is hot, broil miso-glazed eggplant, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from oven and garnish with sesame seeds. Serve immediately.

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Dining out feels different today. COVID-19 shuttered thousands of restaurants across the country, and the ones that have fought tooth and nail to stay open are still reeling from its effects. Paper menus have been replaced by QR codes, plexiglass barriers have been installed in between booths and many restaurants have adjusted their hours or closed altogether as they struggle to find help.

Despite the odds, new restaurants still opened their doors. Opening a restaurant is never easy, but in a pandemic, it sounds downright crazy. Yet these spots – which range from taco joints and sandwich shops to the first U.S. outpost of a Michelinstarred Italian restaurant – did just that, weathering the odds to bring something new and needed to our local dining scenes. These establishments are doing more than just serving great food – they’re rethinking hospitality, creating equitable kitchen environments and challenging our perceptions of what it means to be a great restaurant in 2021.

Dining out feels different today, but it still feels special – and these restaurants show us why.

sgf pg. 36 KC pg. 34 C omo pg. 38

editor’s note: This year’s list was limited to restaurants that opened between September 2020 and September 2021. stl pg. 40

Written by Kasey Carlson, t essa Cooper, r a C hel h uffman, p atri CK m ulvihill, h eather r is K e, Jessi C a v aughn m artin and J enny vergara

Bam B oo Penny’s

This summer, chef Penny Mufuka opened the doors to Bamboo Penny’s, bringing the unique tropical flavors of her native Thailand to Park Place in leawood, Kansas. The upscale concept is the perfect spot to grab your favorite Thai comfort foods – the pad Thai, spring rolls and sticky rice are all worthy of a visit on their own – but Penny’s reimagining of traditional rice, noodle, curry and stir-fry dishes blends bold and inspiring flavors with unexpected seasonal ingredients, including bok choy, bamboo shoots, Chinese broccoli and makrut lime leaves. with 25 years of culinary experience, Penny is no newcomer to the local food scene; she and her husband, Doug Mufuka, have owned and operated Kansas City’s Thai house and Overland Park’s KC Thai for years. But with Bamboo Penny’s, the duo is pushing the envelope on what local diners have come to expect from the cuisine, combining Thai flavors and ingredients with contemporary cooking methods to create memorable small plates, entrées and specialties that all pair beautifully with the ever-evolving menu of house-infused, Polynesian-inspired cocktails. –P.M. 5270 W. 116th Place, Leawood, Kansas, bamboopennys.com | P h OTO B y ANG el A BOND

Canar y

Keely edgington and Beau williams are flying high with their second concept. Canary offers a full restaurant and cocktail lounge on the ground floor of The Netherland building, plus a spacious bar on top, complete with sweeping views of Midtown Kansas City. while Julep, their original cocktail concept in westport, highlights whiskey, the 10 specialty cocktails on the menu at Canary don’t favor a single spirit, but they’re made with the same expertise we have come to expect from this team. Mood lighting brings the historic lobby of the building to life, and the mirrored walls in the lounge and restaurant, which are open only in the evening, give the illusion of space and add a touch of glamour. executive chef Mark Dandurand has finally found the right home for his style of comforting cuisine made with local ingredients – think chicken and sweet potato gnocchi with creamed leeks, pearl onions and scape butter or pork pappardelle made with Sunny Meadow sausage, egg noodles, ‘nduja cream and cured egg yolk. Simultaneously simple and complex, these are elegant dishes to look at – it’s the type of food that always leaves you wanting more. –J.V. 3835 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, canarykc.com | P h OTO B y z AC h BA u MAN

In early 2020, after a year of catering events and organizing pop-ups, chef Fernanda Reyes set up her first Taco Naco booth at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market, serving both traditional and contemporary street tacos hot off the grill and selling handcrafted salsas, dips, taco meal kits and even Margarita mix to take home. A native of Durango, Mexico, and a graduate of the Instituto Culinario de México, Reyes was ultimately convinced to open her own brick-and-mortar location by her entrepreneurial husband and business partner, Brian Goldman, along with her loyal and growing customer base. In early 2021, Taco Naco KC Market & Taqueria opened its doors just one block from her first farmers’ market booth, selling fresh produce, local sundries and imported Mexican hot sauces, juices, sodas, candies and other durable goods. The brightly colored and aromatic space, which combines bar, restaurant and shop, provides Reyes with a larger prep kitchen to support her catering business while bringing in a reliable and eager stream of taco-lovers from across Kansas City. –P.M. 8220 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, taconacokc.com |

Cosmo Burger

One of the many ghost kitchens born out of COVID-19 restrictions, Cosmo Burger serves what has quickly become one of the most revered burgers in all of Kansas City. Since late 2020, chef Jacob Kruger has been slinging burgers out of Dodson’s Bar and Commons in the waldo neighborhood, but unlike many pop-up concepts, Cosmo feels like a permanent staple in the local food scene at this point. The concept is simultaneously old-school and new wave: It serves time-tested smashed burgers yet only takes online orders. And the menu is as uncomplicated as they come. Start with a crispy, juicy burger, which has been smashed nearly paper-thin on a piping hot griddle. Top it with cheese so melty that it becomes fused with the patty. Adorn it with grilled onions. Dress it with a dollop of burger sauce. Throw on some housemade pickles for good measure. Then serve it on a soft, buttered potato bun. wrap it and bag it, or serve it in a basket for Dodson’s in-house guests. The hardest decision you’ll have to make is whether to go for a single, a double or a triple (with Beyond Meat burger alternatives for our vegan friends). And don’t forget a side of tots – with extra burger sauce for dipping, of course. –P.M. 7438 Wornall Road, Kansas City, Missouri, cosmoburgerkc.com |

In August 2021, Manila Bay express began serving its first customers in Grandview, Missouri, attracting diners from near and far. Owner, operator and head chef Norma Thayer has been serving her native cuisine to Kansas Citians since 2014, but Manila Bay is her first restaurant solely focused on classic Filipino food. while Thayer’s fromscratch family recipes might be what get people in the door, her mouthwatering broasted chicken is what keeps them coming back. Broasting is a patented method of cooking – think of a deep-fryer/pressurecooker hybrid that uses less oil – which results in a crispy, juicy, flaky chicken that’ll make you want to order seconds. It’s best to hold off, though – you’ll need to save some room for Thayer’s prized menu item, pork sisig (a traditional minced pork dish served with veggies, mango and rice). Manila Bay’s sisig is simultaneously sweet and savory, spicy and sour, borrowing from Spanish, Malaysian and Chinese cuisines. Truthfully, Manila Bay express diners can’t go wrong. Much like Thayer herself, seemingly every menu item is one-of-a-kind. –P.M. 6305 Main St., Grandview, Missouri, manilabaykc.com

P ress

Ten years after opening Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar, a French-inspired Caribbean and ethiopian restaurant, chef Cherven Desauguste debuted Taste Island Grill right next door, giving Midtown a more convenient, affordable and inviting option for a quick yet unforgettable bite. The fast-casual operation, which mimics Mesob’s tropical flavors and spices, employs Jamaican, haitian and Cuban cooking techniques while simplifying the menu to feature five buildyour-own Caribbean rice bowls. Desauguste and partner Mehret Tesfamariam have created a delicious, uncomplicated “pick-your-protein” menu, turning simple, fresh ingredients into memorably named bowls such as the Beach Party and Reggae Vibes. Diners can choose from blackened fish, pork shoulder, grilled steak, jerk chicken or vegetarian options, plus island-inspired toppings and sides, including guacamole, sweet plantains, curried brown rice, fries and corn salsa. The concept also delivers bold flavors with jumbo guava chicken wings, tacos and classic Jamaican patties. while Taste Island Grill offers takeout and delivery, the restaurant’s physical space is as warm and inviting as the food Desauguste cooks up, warranting repeat visits for Kansas Citians looking for fine-dining flavor in a fast-casual setting. –P.M. 3605 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, tasteislandgrill.com |

Written by Patrick Mulvihill and Jenny Vergara

Ki N g g Bar & d eli

Located on the corner of 18th and Locust streets, right on Art Alley, King g is two concepts in one: a bar and a deli. The bar is bursting with personality, taking its inspiration from the neighborhood in both its décor and drinks, including craft beer, natural wines and quality cocktails served against the colorful backdrop of a graffiti-inspired wall mural of King gambrinus (a folklore icon of beer, brewing and joy) painted by Sebastian Coolidge. On one side of the room, owner Eric Flanagan has built a handsome U-shaped bar, and on the other, guests can gaze down on a private basement bar that seats approximately 25 people. Next door at the delicatessen, a selection of nine regional deli sandwiches – plus salads and sides – awaits, developed by chef and consultant Howard Hanna. Some sandwiches such as the pastrami on rye, turkey and Swiss or corned beef are more familiar, while others might be a pleasant surprise for Kansas City diners. Try the tamago sando, a Japanese-style egg salad sandwich with Kewpie mayo served on traditional milk bread, or the eggplant and artichoke topped with Bibb lettuce, red onion and toum (Lebanese garlic sauce). As impressive as the rest of the menu is, the Italian muffuletta continues to get rave reviews. –J.V. 500 E. 18th St., Kansas City, Missouri, kinggkc.com

Magic Noodle

In April 2021, Magic Noodle opened in Overland Park, Kansas, and filled a void for quality hand-pulled Chinese noodles in the Kansas City area. Here, Elvin Liu, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Sandy Lin Liu, personally hand-pulls six different types of noodles: string, classic, mid-round, mid-flat, flat and shaved, all served in either steaming hot soup or stir-fried with protein and vegetables. Performing a mesmerizing culinary dance in front of a packed dining room seven days a week, Liu rolls the dough into a thin log, picks up each end and, bringing his arms together over his head again and again, lets gravity pull the dough down toward the counter each time, stretching it for longer, thinner noodles. For flat noodles, he rolls and flattens the dough on the counter; then, taking both ends in one hand, stretches the dough at waist height over and over until it’s turned into thin, flat ribbons that he cuts and drops immediately into boiling water to cook. Order the Triple B bowl of soup and get your choice of hand-pulled noodles in beef stock with braised beef brisket, pickled radish, cilantro and scallions. –J.V.

The Tow N c o M pa N y

In some ways, it feels like The Town Company has always operated inside Hotel Kansas City. With its low ceilings, original tile floors and a room divider made from the doors of the telephone booths that once lined the lobby of the building, there is an undeniable coziness found when seated in the small dining room, watching the live fire in the open-hearth kitchen. Executive chef Johnny Leach and executive pastry chef Helen Jo Leach moved to Kansas City to lead the culinary charge here and immediately developed a reputation for taking simple seasonal ingredients and using live fire to make magic happen on the plate. From the Clara Bow rolls with roasted carrot dip to the lamb skewers with cauliflower and smoky eggplant – even a dessert like the hearth-roasted apple pie with pink peppercorn pie crust, Cheddar cheese and parsnip ice cream –the pair show the possibilities of applying live-fire cooking in a fine-dining setting. The flavor profiles of their dishes, while familiar, demonstrate a level of finesse that speaks to their time spent cooking for lauded restaurants in New york City. With help from an intriguing wine list and a selection of fine teas to enjoy with dessert, the collective talents of this restaurant are already impacting the city’s food scene, and we expect they’ll leave a lasting impression on you, as well. –J.V.

8013 W. 159th St., Overland Park, Kansas, magicnoodlekc.com | PHOTO B y

Tailleur

Is it possible to build two completely different restaurant concepts on the same side of the same street and find an audience for both? That’s what culinary entrepreneur Heather White and chef Amante domingo are betting on with the opening of their stylish new European-style bistro, Tailleur (pronounced tailor), which sits just one mile away from their successful brunch, lunch and catering concept, The Russell. In their favor, both are located on Main Street and the expanding Kansas City streetcar line, and both highlight White’s impeccable design and décor skills along with the serious culinary talents of domingo and his team. The new bistro is built to highlight an expanding selection of cookies, cupcakes, tarts, cakes and other pastries that they simply did not have the room for at The Russell. But it is the savory menu that will truly tempt, offering traditional bistro dishes, including steamed mussels and frites, quiche, niçoise salad and steak tartare, alongside heartier fare such as a rack of lamb, scallops, lobster risotto and pork shank that can be enjoyed with a bottle of wine or beer from their curated drink list. It’s safe to say that Tailleur is going to be a good bet for these two. –J.V.

3933 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, tailleuronmain.com

PHOTO B y AN g ELA BON d

1228 Baltimore Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, hotelkc.com/ dine/the-town-company

PHOTO B y z ACH BAUMAN

c orner 21

c hinese c uisine

There’s nary a cashew chicken special or crab rangoon served at Corner 21 Chinese Cuisine. Instead, co-owners Jiapeng lu and yuming Han, who is also the head chef with more than 30 years of experience, have narrowed the options to bestow Springfield, Missouri, with a uniquely traditional Chinese food experience. Rather than sweet and sour fried chicken, for instance, Corner 21 serves a crispy sweet and sour pork dish. The menu primarily highlights flavors from the northeast region of China, with simple and light offerings such as yangzhou-style fried rice; however, spicy central and southwestern Chinese cuisines also have an influence on the menu in the form of Sichuan shrimp and chicken entrées. In each dish, there are multiple textures at play – think crispy fried pumpkin paired with silky egg sauce. Fried calamari is also a big draw, and dishes such as the cumin lamb with cilantro –inspired by the Xinjiang region, where the food is predominantly halal – challenge the stereotypical view of Chinese takeout. First-time customers come to Corner 21 with a bit of curiosity, and repeat customers return with a go-to order.

1369 E. Sunshine St., Springfield, Missouri, corner21us.com

the sandwich scene

Formerly known as Secret Sandwich Shop, The Sandwich Scene is a chef-inspired sandwich shop with humble beginnings. Owner Mack Musgrave opened the stand in the back of Sweet Boy’s Neighborhood Bar in Springfield, but the business outgrew the 400-square-foot kitchen after less than a year. Now, in a more visible location with walk-up access from the street, Musgrave continues to serve cold and hot-pressed sandwiches made with juicy, tender meats cooked sous vide – just under a new moniker. It’s not uncommon to see a line trail down McDaniel Street from the stand, but don’t let that deter you – The Sandwich Scene is able to quickly dole out sammies without sacrificing quality. Although the menu changes frequently, a few tried-and-true staples withstand the test of time; the bestseller to date is the Prosciutto Happiness, Musgrave’s play on a chicken, bacon and ranch sandwich. Another hit, the West Palm Beach, is an ode to where he grew up, featuring crispy prosciutto, turkey and ham paired with Swiss, shredded lettuce, tomato, Dijon mustard and housemade mojo mayonnaise. 208 W. McDaniel St., Springfield, Missouri, secretsandwichsgf.com | PHOTO B y SH el B y HA ll

Queen c ity

s oul Kitchen

Queen City Soul kitchen opened in the aftermath of a wild 2020, satisfying cravings for hearty comfort food. Through their new shared venture, partners Francine Pratt and lyle Foster honor Black heritage and communicate the origins of soul food. Pratt formerly worked as an upscale catering chef in Sacramento, California, where she served high-profile clients such as kenny G and Patti laBelle, while Foster brings business expertise to the table as a longstanding owner of Big Momma’s Coffee and espresso Bar. Pratt debuts a fresh menu each month, featuring dishes such as smothered pork chops, mac ‘n’ cheese and fried chicken wings, but a few staples, including meltin-your-mouth meatloaf and candied yams, have a more permanent place. Pratt wants to do more than just feed customers, though; she’s also carrying on a family tradition of sharing the stories behind the dishes and ingredients that encompass soul food, from collard greens to sweet potatoes. More than simply a restaurant, Queen City Soul kitchen is a vehicle to keep these stories alive. 2006 N. Broadway Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/QueenCitySoulKitchen

r ise

From fluffy challah to creamy lavender-coconut yogurt to puréed red pepper romesco sauce atop pan-seared salmon, everything at Rise is meticulously made from scratch. Sisters Uliana komodi and Christina Sava, who also own european Café, opened Rise in Springfield in early 2021 as a much-welcomed addition to the downtown square. The menu presents an option to please almost every type of diner: Adventurous veggie aficionados often go for the grain bowl topped with beet hummus, while breakfast traditionalists find solace in the classic biscuits and gravy. Rise’s menu carries diners from the early morning hours to the late afternoon, starting with lighter fare, such as parfaits and toasts, and stretching on to heartier breakfast and lunch dishes, including shakshuka, a Croque Madame and chicken schnitzel with French toast. The lively interior with pops of pastel pink and yellow, along with the pristine plating, practically beg to be Instagrammed, which is why the owners relied mostly on word-of-mouth marketing to draw in customers. Weekend or weekday, Rise provides a comfortable space for couples starting their day, old friends catching up or families gathering for a birthday celebration, all over bacon, eggs and coffee by the pitcher. 105 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, 417rise.com

Written by Tessa Cooper

The Ozark Mill a T Finley Far M s

The Ozark Mill at Finley Farms in Ozark, Missouri, is more than a restaurant – it’s an attraction. That’s fittting, given Johnny Morris, who also owns Bass Pro Shops, Wonders of Wildlife and Big Cedar Lodge, opened the riverfront restaurant with help from his daughter, Megan Stack. Located inside a historic grist mill that was painstakingly restored, The Ozark Mill is just one part of Finley Farms, which also features an educational urban farm, a wedding venue and The Workshop, a coffee shop and makers’ space. Drawing inspiration from the mill itself, executive chef Kevin Korman’s menu features subtle nods to its original purpose –think fitre-baked pizzas made with freshly ground hard red wheat flour or chicken and dumplings featuring cornmeal gnocchi. Other dishes highlight the seasonal produce grown on the property’s own urban farm, including shiitake mushrooms cultivated on site, and incorporate classic Ozarks ingredients, such as okra, corn and sweet sorghum. Whether you’re dining inside the mill or on the patio overlooking the rolling waters of the Finley River, a visit to The Ozark Mill will offer a fresh perspective on Ozarks cuisine. 802 Finley Farms Lane, Ozark, Missouri, finleyfarmsmo.com/the-ozark-mill

P h OTO B y DR e W K i MBL e

Casa Maria’s Mexi C an Cantina

Bud’s BBQ

named after owner Jason paetzold’s grandfather, bud’s bbQ is rich with history and tradition yet features its own modern flair. born and raised in the Lone Star State, paetzold then spent years in Kansas City’s restaurant industry before moving to Columbia, Missouri, and calling forth his texas roots for his next venture. In preparing to open bud’s, he spent a year working with leaders of the texas-style barbecue circuit to season his knowledge of their craft, committing to practices such as feeding the smoker in the wee hours of the morning. housed in the former storefronts of Ingredient true Eatery and pickleman’s on ninth Street, bud’s serves draft cocktails, brunch, classic barbecue and what paetzold calls Mexique: a medley of American and Mexican barbecue, featuring favorites such as barbacoa beef or pulled pork on a tortilla. the menu is powered by two custom-built live-fire smokers, which, paetzold says, become more of an ingredient than a fuel source, producing a distinct flavor that Columbia diners have already embraced. From the menu to the space itself – featuring a handcrafted bar made with salvaged wood from a northern Missouri barn, custom neon signs made in tennessee and panoramic windows that slide fully open to let the sweet smell of barbecue roll out onto the sidewalk – it’s the attention to detail in all aspects that makes bud’s a standout. 304 S. Ninth St., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/budsclassicbbq | ph OtO by AA r O n Ott IS

From the pozole to the poblano fajitas, almost everything served at Casa Maria’s Mexican Cantina can be traced back to the home kitchen of chef Jesus Mendoza’s mother, Maria, from whom the restaurant has earned its moniker. After immigrating to the U.S. from Mexico, Mendoza himself cooked in myriad restaurants before running his own with co-owner Crystal Umfress. Mendoza developed the menu using his mother’s own recipes, creating meals so popular that the restaurant expanded with a new catering arm in late autumn. beyond the food, customers flock here for the craft Margaritas, which are available in almost two dozen varieties. the origin story of Casa Maria’s is enough to spur a dinner plan, but its upscale vibe makes it an easy choice for celebratory occasions, as well. Mendoza and Umfress hired local artist Cindy Scott to design and paint murals on the interior, drawing from inspirations such as Columbia’s beloved bur Oak tree, and floral art across the tabletops. to continue to feed its steadily growing fan base, Casa Maria’s plans to add brunch service this winter. 1305 Grindstone Parkway, Columbia, Missouri, casamariamexican.com | ph OtO by AA r O n Ott IS

Gina’s Ve G an a Go Go

With the debut of Gina’s Vegan A Go Go this summer, Columbia welcomed its only vegan food truck to the scene. Chef-owner Gina Overshiner purchased the food trailer during the first months of the pandemic, and she’s since made the trailer her own in looks and in flavor with the hopes of challenging Missourians’ perceptions of vegan food. Inspired and mentored by Main Squeeze owner Leigh Lockhart, Overshiner also draws on her own vegan lifestyle to create what she refers to as “vegan comfort food – like your mom would make if she was really cool and knew what vegan food is.” With this mindset, her goal is to make vegan food more approachable and craveable, offering plant-based riffs on classics such as a beet burger, barbecue seitan sandwich and “tuna” salad made with chickpeas, hearts of palm and seaweed. Overshiner makes almost everything from scratch, and both vegans and non-vegans alike have become repeat customers. In 2022, Overshiner plans to expand service hours and locations, aiming to roll even more vegan comfort food around the mid-Missouri area. facebook.com/Ginas-Vegan-A-Go-Go-102333925379678 | ph OtO by AA r O n Ott IS

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin

Ozark M O untain Biscuit and Bar

For years, diners have tracked the bright yellow Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co. food truck across Columbia, hoping to snag one of its beloved biscuit sandwiches or fried apple pies. With the opening of its new brick-and-mortar location across from Logboat Brewing Co., those fans now know exactly where to find the flaky, buttery biscuits. Upon entering the space, you’ll notice a well-lit monochrome portrait of chef-owner Bryan Maness’ great-grandmother, who passed down the biscuit recipe that started everything. Maness further draws from his family’s Arkansas roots to inform the menu, serving up Southern specialties with unique twists – think fried pickled okra or coffee sweetened with molasses. The permanent location also allows for a new focus on spirits – the creative bar program is already flourishing under the direction of Maness’ partner, Maria Seiffert – and family-style meals with shared plates, such as the creamy Cheddar mac ‘n’ cheese topped with cornbread crumble or the beef short ribs, slowly braised with a bourbon-peach glaze. 1204 Hinkson Ave., Columbia, Missouri, ozarkbiscuits.com

B O

lyard’s Meat and Pr O visi O ns

at the new location of Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions, you can enjoy dinner and a show –as long as you’re fascinated by a good cut of meat and aren’t too squeamish. In the butcher shop’s expanded digs, you’ll find all of the local, pasture-raised meats that customers have come to expect from the whole-animal shop. But thanks to the larger space, co-owner Chris Bolyard and chef remi Didry can also flex their chops in the kitchen with a full selection of thoughtfully crafted sandwiches, salads and breakfast fare. The Tom Tom takes classic sliced turkey breast and adds Colby jack, pickled red onion, fresh greens and ‘njuda mayo, while the Pig Pen piles char siu pulled pork with sweet and sour cabbage and a drizzle of gochujang mayo. Throughout the menu, the team offers subtle nods to the shop’s commitment to high-quality, humanely raised and meticulously butchered meats, from a seasonal salad garnished with paper-thin housemade bresaola to the famous tallow fries. Cozy up to a counter seat to see all the action up close; thanks to a bank of windows, guests can now enjoy their meal while getting to see some of the butchering process for themselves. –K.C. 2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, bolyardsmeat.com

Chiang Mai

St. Louis has recently seen a surge of restaurants determined to showcase the distinct flavor profiles of Thailand’s four regions, as dishes including khao soi and tom yum slowly become as familiar to Midwest diners as more ubiquitous takeout staples such as pad Thai. For a crash course in the intricacies of Northern Thai food, one need only head to Chiang Mai – the restaurant in Webster Groves, Missouri, that is. Chef Su Hill, who also owns Bistro Saffron in Cape Girardeau, opened the restaurant in October 2020 in tribute to the flavors of her hometown in northern Thailand. Hill learned to cook from her mother and grandmother, who both trained in the Grand Palace, the longtime official residence of the kings of Siam in Bangkok. Chiang Mai serves as a vehicle for her to preserve her family’s culinary traditions –including the handwritten recipes her mother shared with her before she passed –and share a true taste of northern Thailand with her community.

To experience the cuisine’s signature flavors, characterized by sour, salty and bitter notes, opt for dishes such as the housemade sai oua (a snappy grilled pork sausage with lemongrass and chiles), gaeng hung lay (tender braised curry pork with garlic and ginger) or fragrant khao soi with red coconut curry, egg noodles and tender slow-braised chicken drumsticks. –H.R. 8158 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, chiangmaistl.com

Casa dO n a lf O ns O

Did St. Louis really need another Italian restaurant? With the opening of Casa Don alfonso at The ritz-Carlton, St. Louis in Clayton, Missouri, we’re inclined to say yes. The first U.S. outpost of the Iaccarino family’s venerable Don alfonso 1890 – a two-star Michelin restaurant in Sant’agata, Italy – aims to bring a taste of the Sorrento Coast to the Midwest, specializing in the culinary traditions found throughout the Campania region. and you’ll feel transported from the moment you step inside what is easily one of the most gorgeous restaurant spaces in town, featuring a massive open kitchen flanked by a copper ceiling and hand-painted tile backsplash made in Sorrento and a striking display of 600 hand-blown glass wisteria leaves suspended over the main dining room. That same level of attention to detail is also evident in the restaurant’s sourcing of ingredients – olive oil comes from a small farm in Sicily, Calabrian ‘nduja tops one of the wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and the lemons used in the signature limoncello are grown on the family’s own farm. The menu also draws on family recipes stretching back generations, including the aptly named Grandma’s Ziti and the decadent Maccheroni Gratin, featuring housemade noodles served in a small copper pot bubbling with rich béchamel and slivers of ham. If the goal was to make dining at Casa Don alfonso a transportive experience, the restaurant has done so in spades. –H.R.

100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri, casadonalfonsostlouis.com

O+O Pizza

O+O Pizza is a bit of a misnomer. The pizzas – a crispy thin-crust style informed by both roman and New Haven styles that executive chef Mikey risk spent almost 10 months developing – are a worthy attraction in their own right, but the fresh pastas are just as deserving of top billing. Housemade noodles – whether the casarecce in the simple yet stunning cacio e pepe or the tubular occhi di lupo served with butternut squash, crab, apple, tarragon and brown butter – help make O+O Pizza’s pastas some of the best in town. The corzetti, in particular, is a showstopper: For this thin, disc-shaped stamped pasta traditional to the Liguria region of northwest Italy, risk had a custom octopus stamp made in Italy to nod to the crispy octopus sitting atop the pasta with bone marrow, tomato, thyme, red wine and leeks. Thoughtful touches like

these elevate dishes throughout the menu – toasted ravioli features handmade noodles stuffed with beef, pancetta tesa and gooey fontina, for instance, while a drizzle of housemade Calabrian chile-infused hot honey takes a classic pepperoni pie to the next level. With O+O Pizza, risk has done more than just fill the shoes of its much-loved sister restaurant, Olive + Oak, which relocated down the street; he’s upped the game for Italian fare in St. Louis. –H.R.

102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, oandopizza.lh-stl.com |

Written by Kasey Carlson, Rachel Huffman and Heather Riske

Songbird owners Chris Meyer and Mike Miller are the brains behind what’s arguably become St. Louis’ most popular breakfast sandwich. The pair, who also own Kounter Kulture and prepared foods brand field to fire, have become fixtures at the Tower Grove farmers’ Market selling The Combo, which features aged white Cheddar, crispy bacon, a fried egg, sea salt and a drizzle of honey. A study in simplicity and the importance of sourcing local, high-quality ingredients, the sandwich soon had hungry shoppers lining up in droves for it each Saturday. The Combo now has a permanent place on the menu at Songbird, but diners can also find equally thoughtful – and delicious – takes on classic breakfast fare such as a housemade sprouted grain English muffin topped with a turkey sausage patty, omelet-style egg, microgreens and brown butter aïoli or a housemade bialy with thinly sliced house-cured Scottish salmon and cream cheese. With Songbird, Meyer and Miller are building on a years-long dedication to celebrating local ingredients, from bee Simple microgreens and newman farm bacon to the heirloom flours baker bryan russo uses to craft his flawless breads, bialys and biscuits. They might just be serving St. Louis’ best breakfast while they’re at it. –H.R.

4476 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, songbirdstl.com

Quesabirria has no doubt been one of the year’s breakout food trends across the country, and it’s easy to understand why from the first bite. Tender, slow-cooked goat – or sometimes beef – is layered with cheese on corn tortillas, which are cooked to crispy perfection atop a griddle and then served with a bowl of consommé to dip it all in. To experience a true taste of the Jalisco specialty in St. Louis, you need only head to Tacos La Jefa. Primarily open on Saturdays inside the Urban Eats incubator in Dutchtown, the pop-up taco stand serves quesabirria and both chicken and beef birria – available in tacos or as a plate – from a recipe that’s been passed down for generations. It all started with Heriberta Amescua, a Guadalajara native who started making traditional birria at area Mexican festivals and at regular gatherings in her own backyard nearly 20 years ago – long before TikTok found it – before fulfilling a longtime dream to open her own brick-and-mortar restaurant. Sadly, Amescua passed away in April, but her family continues to honor her legacy by keeping the spirit of Tacos La Jefa alive, one birria taco at a time. –K.C. 3301 Meramec St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/tacoslajefaSTL

A product of its time, Tempus opened for takeout only in The Grove in october 2020. Here, proper, straightforward execution translates into purposeful, genuine hospitality and craveable, comforting food. Through careful consideration of the most efficient, effective and appealing ways to box and bag each dish for carryout, Tempus was still able to delight diners without the dine-in experience. James beard semifinalist and Culinary olympian ben Grupe says that operating his own place has been extremely gratifying, but it’s more than that: This is his opportunity to pursue his goals for the restaurant industry while allowing his team to present their own ideas in a collaborative and inclusive kitchen. The teamwork – and the fact that Tempus hasn’t pigeonholed itself with one style of food – is apparent in the range of sensational seasonal dishes such as beets with whipped fennel, salted strawberry and granola; maitake mushrooms with caramelized onion, horseradish and whey soubise; and the beef rib with au gratin potatoes, pot roast carrots and cipollini onion. The dining room at Tempus is now open Wednesday through Saturday by reservation only, but no matter where you enjoy your meal, the standards of food and service never falter. –R.H. 4370 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, tempusstl.com

The Lucky Accomp L ice

Above all, Logan Ely wants you to have fun. The chef made his name in St. Louis with the elevated tasting menus at SHIfT, which is temporarily closed aside from occasional pop-ups, but his new venture, The Lucky Accomplice, is a more relaxed, comfortable experience with an approachable à la carte menu. Ely and his team have carried the same ethos across concepts: to find clever ways to cook what the farm has. The menu revolves around vegetables, and almost 100 percent of the restaurant’s produce comes from Eat Here St. Louis and Double Star farms in benton, Illinois. “The menu changes so often because we want to keep pushing the envelope, but also because everything on the menu comes from the farm,” Ely says. “So, if our carrot farmer doesn’t have any carrots, we have to alter our carrot dish.” Components of the cocktail menu, which is driven by bar manager Corey Moszer, are also influenced by local farmers – think sage syrup, beet-peppercorn shrubs and cherry-ginger bitters. With everything The Lucky Accomplice has to offer, we dare you not to have a good time. –R.H.

2501 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, theluckyaccomplice.com

Horror meets heavy metal at the newest vegan restaurant on South Grand boulevard. The first restaurant from brothers bradley roach and brian roash, who spell their last names differently, Terror Tacos provides a completely different experience than other plant-based restaurants, which usually champion love, happiness and bright colors. As you wait in line to order, take notice of the setting, where heavy metal plays loudly over the speakers and décor items, such as room number 237 on the basement door, reference some of the owners’ favorite films. Whether you appreciate the theme or not, the tacos – such as birria tacos with housemade seitan marinated in vegan "consommé" – are indisputably delicious. Packed with meaty, textured plant-based proteins, the Citrus Mistress (spicy “chorizo” topped with pineapple-mango salsa) and the Carnage Asada (peppered “carne asada” with diced onion, guacamole and cilantro) also appeal to all eaters. Having only scratched the surface of what’s possible at Terror Tacos, the brothers hope to expand with more locations as well as realize other equally distinctive concept ideas. –R.H. 3191 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, terrortacos.com

PH oTo b y ro L f r I n GWALD

Timo T hy’s The r es TA ur A n T

Driving down olive boulevard in St. Louis County, all the plazas and chains start to blend together, but Timothy’s The restaurant stands out. The brainchild of industry veterans Steven Manns, Tim Metz and Sean olson, Timothy’s provides an upscale dining experience that’s unparalleled in Creve Coeur, Missouri. Upon entering the space, a genuine greeting makes guests feel at home, and the thoughtful décor and elegant tablescapes hint at the impeccable meal to come. Metz refers to the cuisine as elevated American, and familiar ingredients, expert execution and a pinch of magic come together for dishes such as the decadent lobster pot pie, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese and carrot cake fritters poised on top of cream cheese frosting. Since the restaurant opened in August, the wine list has grown; there are approximately 220 quality bottles on the menu right now, giving guests plenty of pairing options. Despite a general lack of floor personnel and a struggling standard of service across the dining industry, Manns ensures that the staff at Timothy’s is attentive and accommodating, providing top-notch service that feels natural and effortless. –R.H.

Creve Coeur, Missouri, timothysstl.com