February 2019 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

midwest

february 2019

Master the art of smørrebrød on p. 33.

can

Street Fo ds

zy:

Get Co

g y H ge H w-To

LOVE.

This Valentine's Day enjoy a special meal with your special someone. Katie’s Lobster Risotto + Artichoke Salad + Tiramisu is the perfect way to say you care by enjoying an amazing meal together.

AVAILABLE NOW

THROUGH FEBRUARY 21 DELIVERY BETWEEN FEBRUARY 8 TH -22 ND

V EROMEAL KI T S . COM 2

Real Italian Meal Kits From Chef Katie Collier of Katie’s Pizza & Pasta

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Sunday

May 19 2 to 5pm GA 5 to 7pm VIP AFTER PARTY

's annual

wine beer & spirits this month

social

early Bird Offer $30 (Regularly $40)

Save $10 on GeneRal admiSSion Early bird offer available to first 100 ticket purchasers. visit feastmagazine.com/events for more details

St.

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

february

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 2 Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

contributors anna davis

sales

ART

Director of Sales

Art Director

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

Account Manager, ST. LOUIS REGION

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com

Michele Russo, mrusso@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1297

Contributing Photographers

them. I'm very passionate about Scandinavian food and giving others the opportunity to taste and appreciate it. Testing out the recipes and getting to

Senior Editor

Zach Bauman, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Ana Elliott, April Fleming, Demond Meek, Kat Niehaus, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Danielle Rayoum, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Emily Teater, Jim Turner

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com

Contributing illustrator

christopher smith Kansas City, Photographer

Managing Editor

Kimberly Cho

"The term 'street food' belies the elegance of the Scandinavian fare

special projects Editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1244

EDITORIAL

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen fact checker

Rose Hansen

Springfield, Missouri, Writer “Writing the hygge feature in this issue was like revisiting Scandinavia. Not only did I get to further explore the culture and cuisine of each of the

production designer

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville

five Scandinavian countries, but also it gave me the chance to really think about each of them individually – what sets them apart and what connects

feed people some of my favorite food were definitely highlights of writing the feature. After visiting Norway, I believe strongly in the hygge concept and how important it is for our busy culture today. We need to relax and enjoy the comfort of mealtimes with our families more often." (Hygge How-To, p. 64)

at Vildhäst. It's bursting with color, and when photographed on a white backdrop, the food pops even more. Shooting food on white can pose some challenges, though; the biggest was having to set up a

production partner: Tybee Studios

mini studio in the middle of a bustling food hall. Typically, when I shoot

light for dish photography. In this case, I needed two studio lights,

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

food, I find a table out of the way next to a window and use natural a white backdrop and a tabletop, all while trying not to occupy too much space in the crowded dining room. After I tucked away between a sofa and bar table, I created a studio on location. The final results jump off the page." (Scandi Street Eats, p. 60)

Distribution

Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger Contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Jordan Baranowski, Julia Calleo, Corin Cesaric, Tessa Cooper, Anna Davis, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Ana Elliott, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Lauren Miers, Justin Phelps, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

kat niehaus St. Louis, Photographer

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

“When I was asked to photograph chimney cakes for Hometown Hits, I was excited, as the assignment was a chance to shoot something really new and different. Sherwood’s Classic Eats, in Barnhart, Missouri, has a great retro feel with photos of antique cars and caricatures of celebrities. While meeting with Tiffany [Lindsey], the owner, she explained the Hungarian origin of chimney cakes and how she added them to the menu because they were unique in the St. Louis area. The large chimney cakes were a bit challenging to shoot, as they had a tendency to flatten when served laying down, rather than standing up, but they were delicious!" (Hometown Hits, p. 23)

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

rogan howitt Springfield, Missouri, Writer "As a beverage director and bartender, building cocktails never gets old. Tinkering with the endless world of drink modifiers and ingredients has become a means of artistic expression. Personally, my comfort zone is located somewhere within the tropical flavor-bomb plane of existence. In any profession, stepping out of your routine and failing miserably countless times should eventually, hopefully result in reward. The Martini-style aquavit cocktail featured in this month's The Mix is a departure from the

on the cover Roasted salmon and pickled cabbage smørrebrød by Jennifer Silverberg table of contents Go Out: Scandinavia Place in Independence, Missouri, by Zach Bauman; Stay In: Swedish-style cardamom rolls by Julia Calleo; Features: Pickled herring smørrebrød three ways by Leth Columbus

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bright and citrus-forward flavors that have become so second nature to me. For me, developing this drink was an exercise in exploring subtlety in a classic stirred cocktail while incorporating aquavit, a spirit with huge personality." (The Mix, p. 29)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 19 /

/ 13 /

DINE & DRINK Best of Luck Beer Hall, The Campground, Elmwood, Plaza III Steakhouse, Reverie, BarVino.wine, Thai Table

/ 16 / one on one Molli Esping of Blacksmith Coffee Shop & Roastery

/ 26 /

/ 25 / sweet ideas Swedish sticky chocolate cake / 26 / how-to Swedish-style cardamom rolls / 29 / the mix Rites of Spring cocktail

/ 17 / On TREND Draft lattes

/ 31 / midwest made Bone broth

/ 19 / SHOP HERE Scandinavia Place

/ 32 / mystery shopper Black cardamom

/ 20 / one on one Kaley Gann of Messenger Coffee Co.

/ 34 / one on one Abbie Brown of Brown Abbey Gourmet

/ 21 / HOT BLOCKS Macklind Business District in St. Louis

/ 37 / the dish Cherry-chocolate kringle

/ 22 / one on one Gerd Hedman of Hedman Vineyards

/ 39 / healthy appetite Winter greens with roasted grapes and Danish blue cheese

/ 23 / HOMETOWN HITS The Dew Drop Inn, Sherwood’s Classic Eats, Bistro at the Mill

Features

/ 41 / quick fix Swedish meatballs / 42 / culinary library Ben Klasner of Sycamore / 43 / crash course Coffee break

/ 51 /

51 60 64

smØrrebrØd explored Learn to perfect the art of Danish-style open-faced sandwiches.

scandi street eats Discover the famous street foods of Denmark and Sweden at Vildhäst in Kansas City, and get a taste of them at home, too.

hygge how-to Cozy up in the kitchen this winter with five comforting recipes inspired by the Scandinavian tradition of hygge.

In Every Issue / 6 / from the PUBLISHER Adventures in Iceland / 8 / events / 10 / feast tv Crushed / 74 / back burner

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Letter

from the

Publisher

he flight from St. Louis

to Keflavik International Airport was only six short hours. When our plane took off from St. Louis Lambert International Airport, it was close to midnight, and when we arrived in Iceland, we were just in time for lunch. After navigating the airport and picking up the four-by-four required to trek through the country’s famously rugged dirt roads, we happened upon a food truck serving fish and chips. My first taste of Iceland was a perfectly hot-and-crispy fried Icelandic cod and equally crisp fries, served with remoulade and vinegar. I could not have had a more perfect bite to begin the 10-day journey that would take us around the entire circumference of the country. Generally speaking, the food in Iceland isn’t anything to write home about; I went to this stunning country to be immersed in nature. They have a very, very short growing season, and fresh fruit and vegetables are in short supply. But the fish is incredible, the lamb is without peer, the yogurt is lovely and the beer is outstanding. We packed up an insulated bag and had innumerable picnics while traversing Iceland’s Route 1, and although the food wasn’t the focus of the journey, it added depth to the experience.

Over 10 days last September, I circumnavigated the island country of Iceland, where fried fish, cold beer and high winds reign.

To get a taste of this tradition, turn to p. 51 for senior editor Liz Miller’s smørrebrød how-to. After finishing up the issue, there’s one thing I can tell you: I will be making contributor Anna Davis’ Norwegian fish soup with mussels, brandy and wine (p. 72) this month. It seems the right time to dig into a cuisine that emphasizes hygge, creating a sense of comfort to ward off the chill of winter.

Until next time, I’ve been lucky enough to visit a few Scandinavian countries: Iceland, of course, along with Sweden, Denmark and Finland. The food traditions differ from country to country, but they’re united in having the challenge of a limited growing season, so pickling and other preservation techniques like smoking are used extensively. I love the sharp, pungent, punchy flavors found in Scandinavian cooking. They match the landscape: incredibly beautiful with an icy bite. We’ve dedicated our February edition to exploring how you can get a taste of Scandinavia here in the Midwest. 6

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Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

Love Bites Two Local Favorites Serve Up Romantic Meals

e This Valentine’s Day f

he romantic amenities and culinary delights at The Cheshire will leave your heart – and stomach – happy. Start your night off at Basso, an Italian gastropub, or spend a leisurely evening enjoying a four-course tasting menu at Boundary, which rolled out a new menu this month with warm, hearty winter options.

BAsso

tricolored carrots Grab a quick bite and drink at Basso before heading to a movie at The Hi-Pointe Theatre or Backlot across the street.

BoundAry red snapper

On top of the all-new winter menu, Boundary is offering a four-course Valentine’s Day tasting menu and Champagne specials.

Conti nue your eve ni ng At The Cheshire

OISHI

SUSHI AND STEAKHOUSE

721 N NEW BALLAS RD. • CREVE COEUR, MO • 314-567-4478 SUSHI ONLY

100 PUBLIC WORKS DR. • CHESTERFIELD, MO • 636-530-1198 OISHISTL . COM OISHISTL . COM

OISHISUSHISTEAKHOUSE //OISHISUSHISTEAKHOUSE

OISHISTL @OISHISTL @

Add on the Romance Package at The Cheshire for a romantic overnight getaway. After your meal at Basso or Boundary, head to the charming boutique hotel for deluxe accommodations and upgrades that include chilled Champagne, chocolate-covered strawberries and a convenient 1pm checkout.

6 3 0 0 C L AY T O N R O A D | S T . L O U I S , M O 6 3 1 1 7 3 1 4 . 6 4 7. 7 3 0 0 | C h e S h I R e S T L . C O M

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Fr om de ss er t co m pe ti ti on s to be er fe st s, pl an th e m on th s ah ea d w it h fe as t

CALENDAR

STL | 2/8

STL | 2/22 - 2/24

Opera Theatre of Saint Louis’ 2019 Wine & Beer Tasting

St. Louis Working Women’s Survival Show

Fri., Feb. 8, 6:30 to 8:30pm; tickets starting at $75; Sally S. Levy Opera Center, 210 Hazel Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri; 314.963.4223; experienceopera.org/wineandbeertasting

Fri., Feb. 22 to Sun., Feb. 24, times vary; $6 to $14; St. Charles Convention Center, 1 Convention Center Plaza, St. Charles, Missouri; 402.691.8889; wwssonline.com

Raise a glass in celebration of Opera Theatre of Saint Louis at the 2019 Wine & Beer Tasting. Held at the Sally S. Levy Opera Center in Webster Groves, Missouri, guests will be able to sip and sample exquisite wine, extraordinary imports and microbrews, an impressive array of hors d'oeuvres and an enticing silent auction.

Experience the ultimate gals' day out with food, fashion, fitness and fun. The St. Louis Working Women’s Survival Show features the latest and greatest products and services from more than 400 exhibitors from across the country. The show gives you the chance to go shopping, grab a bite and get pampered all in one place with your family and friends.

STL | 2/9

STL | 2/28

Science on Tap

Schnucks Cooks: Swedish Meatballs

Sat., Feb. 9, 7 to 10pm; $45 to $100; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., Kings Oak, St. Louis; 314.289.4400; slsc.org/ontap

Join the Saint Louis Science Center on Sat., Feb. 9 for Science on Tap. Sample 100-plus beers, enjoy small plates and learn the science of beer. Upgrade to VIP to experience the new Guitar Exhibition guided by KSHE and KPNT radio hosts and a VIP lounge.

STL | 2/21

In this class, you’ll learn how to make traditional Danish pancakes topped with lingonberry jam. You’ll also learn how to make Swedish meatballs and a warming, winter-perfect mushroom soup.

SGF | 3/9

Dessert First

Flyover Beer Fest

Thu., Feb. 21, 6 to 9pm; $175; The Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta, 212 Kingshighway Blvd., Central West End, St. Louis; 314.592.2320; girlscoutsem.org/ dessertfirst

Sat., March 9, 2 to 5pm, VIP 1 to 2pm; $40 GA, $65 VIP; Mother’s Brewing Co., 215 S. Grant Ave., Springfield, Missouri; 417.862.0423; flyoverbeerfest.com

Now in its eighth year, Dessert First features tasty original desserts and a celebration of the extraordinary achievements and contributions of three Girl Scout supporters and two amazing Girl Scouts. The event begins with guests tasting original desserts made by local chefs, followed by a seated dinner. Each year, chefs take Girl Scouts’ famous cookies and transform them into mouthwatering desserts.

Thu., Feb. 28, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school

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Mother’s Brewing Co.’s Flyover Beer Fest is your chance to join some of the most righteous breweries in the Midwest to get a taste of what’s been going down in brewhouses across the heartland. Mother's is opening its backyard to unlimited samples from 30-plus breweries traveling from across Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma and Arkansas. A limited number of VIP tickets are available for access to exclusive beers and early entry.

HARVESTER S

Eat, drink & feed many at Forks & Corks 2019 - an exciting

event benefitting Harvesters' food bank. Enjoy samples of gourmet food, wine and cocktails from more than 60 of Kansas Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest restaurants and beverage purveyors!

Thursday, April 4, 2019 | 6:30 to 9 p.m. Arrowhead Stadium 1 Arrowhead Dr., Kansas City, MO 64129

Get tickets now at www.forkscorkskc.com!

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episode: crushed Check your local listings

to watch feast tv on these networks:

The local wine industry is one of Missouri’s brightest gems. We all live just a quick drive away from wineries that are beautifully crafting vintages ranging from deep, dark Nortons to light, bright sparklers. If you’ve never had the chance to be on hand for harvest season, you’re in luck. Host Cat Neville is starting out this wine-soaked episode in the vineyard at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard in Potosi, Missouri, where the harvest is in full swing, followed by a trip to Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City, where the focus is vinifera. At Chaumette Vineyards & Winery in Ste. Genevieve, wines are made in the French style using local varietals, and those food-friendly wines are paired with fare made at the winery’s award-winning restaurant. Cat wraps the episode up in the kitchen, where she makes Chardonel-braised chicken thighs with olives, garlic and mushrooms.

feast tv

is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: 10

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

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Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

Enjoy nature anytime! Finding places to discover nature in Missouri is easy with the new, free mobile app — MO Outdoors. Users can quickly find MDC places close to home for birdwatching, fishing, hiking, camping, or hunting, and still have time to get home to make a warm and hearty meal. Download for

Android

Discover

Nature

Moroccan spicedbraised venison Serves 2 to 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 pounds venison round steak Salt and coarsely ground pepper 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 lemon, cut thinly into 8 to 10 slices 4 medium garlic cloves, sliced 1 medium onion, chopped 1 4-ounce jar chopped pimentos or 1 red bell pepper 1 tablespoon dried pepper flakes (preferably ancho) ½ cup prunes, pitted 1 cup chicken stock 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes In a 4-quart cast-iron pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Salt and pepper steaks on both sides and add to hot oil. After first side is browned, turn over and add cardamom and cumin seeds to the oil around meat, and stir to heat seeds thoroughly. Add lemon, garlic, onion and pimentos and stir. Cook until onion is softened. Add pepper flakes, prunes, stock and tomatoes. Turn meat over, stir thoroughly and cover with lid. Simmer atop burner for 2 to 3 hours until meat is tender. Place meat on a heated platter and cover. Skim fat from pot and bring contents to a boil to reduce liquids. Season to taste and pour over venison. Serve with couscous or saffron rice and your favorite bold red wine.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com.

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INTERSECTION OF I-270 AND PAGE AVENUE ST. LOUIS, MO | 314-576-7100

westportstl.com

CAFÉ SEBASTIENNE DINNER SERIES

FERMENTATION WITH SANDOR KATZ, S.E. NASH, AND CHEF RICK MULLINS

—SATURDAY,

MARCH 2, 2019—

Conversation | FREE | 6:00 p.m. Kemper Museum Atrium Reserve your seat at kemperart.org/RSVP Ticketed Dinner | $65 per person | 7:00 p.m. Café Sebastienne For tickets go to kemperart.org/cafe Tickets must be purchased in advance.

For more information visit kemperart.org/dinner-series

café SEBASTIENNE at Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art

4420 Warwick Boulevard, Kansas City, MO 64111 | 816-561-7740 S.E. Nash, Tending to Err(or) (detail), 2018, acrylic on cotton, soil, gel medium, magic sculpt, acrylic, resin, peat pots, burlap, garden stakes, dandelion, tennis ball, flag, 72 x 36 x 12 inches. Courtesy of the artist. 12

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Go Out DINE & DRINK / ON TREND / SHOP HERE / HOT BLOCKS / HOMETOWN HITS

▪ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Best of Luck Beer Hall Story and Photography by tessa cooper

As soon as Joshua Widner and Jim Wilson walked into 313-B S. Jefferson Ave. in Springfield, Missouri, they knew it had to be a beer hall. Widner, Wilson and the team behind Good Spirits & Co. (The Golden Girl Rum Club, Cherry Picker Package x Fare, Scotch & Soda) opened Best of Luck Beer Hall last month. The downtown tasting room offers 40 beers on tap, punch-style cocktails, wine and shareable plates. You’ll also find a collection of yard, arcade and board games. 313-B S. Jefferson Ave., Springfield, Missouri, goodspiritsandco.com

Best Burger Black Gate Farms 6-ounce patty, Shrettuce slaw, American cheese and Best sauce on a brioche bun

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DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

▶ MAPLEWOOD, MO.

Elmwood Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling – both alums of Niche Food Group – focused the menu at Elmwood on modern American cuisine with global influences, made with Josper charcoal grills. The upscale neighborhood eatery in Maplewood, Missouri, offers everything from burgers, wings and salads to steaks and whole-roasted fish cooked over a live fire. The goal, as executive chef Altnether says, is for each item on the seasonal menu to feature flame-kissed elements – an incendiary twist to complement a thoughtfully curated beverage list. 2704 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, elmwoodstl.com

▲ KANSAS CITY

The Campground Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by april fleming

Christopher Ciesiel and Cristin Llewellyn recently opened The Campground in the Stockyards District of Kansas City's West Bottoms, a craft cocktail bar that drinks as well as it eats. The space, formerly home to Genessee Royale, has been given a sleek makeover and serves a bar menu that features 10 craft cocktails, plus wine and beer. Start with the Martini, made with a 3-to-1 ratio of gin to vermouth, and served with an onion, olive and lemon twist, alongside an order of sea salt and vinegar potato chips. Chef Craig Howard delivers a light lunch and an impressive dinner menu featuring a Kansas City strip, chicken-fried quail and s’mores for dessert. 1531 Genessee St., Kansas City, Missouri, thecampgroundkc.com

▶ OVERLAND PARK, KS.

Plaza III Steakhouse Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow

Plaza III Steakhouse has relocated to the Metcalf 127 Shopping Center in Overland Park, Kansas. Great care was taken with the remodel, featuring dark wood, antique-style wallpaper, leather booths and Western art and memorabilia from the original Country Club Plaza location. The new menu includes signature dishes like the Original Wedge Salad, Plaza III Steak Soup and the famous chocolate or Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. In addition, there’s a solid selection of prime steaks and seafood, plus breakfast items such as the Plaza III Eggs Benedict topped with a grilled Kansas City strip. 12631 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, plazaiiikcsteakhouse.com 14

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▶ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Reverie Story and photography by Tessa Cooper

The team behind Progress already wowed Springfield, Missouri, at the pop up’s new permanent home in Farmers Park. Now, they’re serving wine, craft cocktails, spirits and a small menu at Reverie, a new rooftop bar located above the restaurant in the former Barley, Wheat & Rye space. Try the Sangaree, made with rye whiskey, apple brandy, spiced pear, vanilla, citrus and Lambrusco, and indulge in a slice of the cake of the day. 2144 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, reveriebar.com

▼ MAPLEWOOD, MO.

Thai Table Story and photography by Mabel Suen

mushroom-Manchego bruschetta

Waygu meatballs

Thai Table opened in Maplewood, Missouri, in September, featuring the cuisine of northeastern Thailand. Many of its dishes are characteristically spicy, fortified with house-grown Thai chile peppers and dried spices, toasted and ground in-house. Entrées range from pad Thai to favorites like pad kra pow with stir-fried ground chicken, bell peppers, white onion and Thai basil in spicy basil sauce, topped with a fried egg. 7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri, thaitablestl.com

nduja ' deviled eggs

▲ JEFFERSON CITY, MO.

BarVino.wine Written by lauren miers / photography by aaron ottis

New to East High Street in Jefferson City, Missouri, BarVino.wine features an upscale atmosphere, approachable menu and massive selection of wine totaling 200 bottles. The impressive wine list is

served alongside bourbon, scotch and beer options, plus a creative cocktail menu developed in partnership with Columbia, Missouri, favorites Barred Owl Butcher & Table and Flyover. BarVino.wine’s drink selection is complemented by a well-curated collection of small plates including ‘nduja deviled eggs, mushroom-Manchego bruschetta and Spanish-style Waygu meatballs. 204 E. High St., Jefferson City, Missouri, barvino.wine / f e br u a ry 2 019

ONE on

with

Molli Esping /

Written by Jordan Baranowski photography courtesy blacksmith coffee shop & roastery

 Lindsborg, Ks. Located in the historic

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Tell us about the space. The roastery and coffee shop are inside the Holmberg & Johnson Blacksmith Shop, built around 1900. Plenty of the original aspects of the building are still here, like the brick walls and floor, and the original forge and chimney – still with coal inside. What differentiates Swedish coffee from other types? It’s typically dark and strong; one of our most popular coffees is the darkest roast we carry, [the Swedish Skånerost]. Swedish coffee-drinkers want chocolate notes and nuttiness in their coffee – and they want it strong enough to stick a spoon in and have it stand up! What about the food menu? Our kitchen is a bit too small for much Swedish fare, but we do have a sandwich called the Kalkonsmörgås that's one of our most popular items. It’s a turkey sandwich on rye bread with a cranberry-cheese spread and Provolone, all topped with coleslaw. Is your coffee available outside of Lindsborg? There are some grocery stores around the state that carry Blacksmith, [such as] GreenAcres Market in Wichita and Hy-Vee in Manhattan. Many smaller coffee shops in nearby cities like McPherson and Salina also carry our coffee; you can also order it on our website. We have had a great few years and want to continue to grow and expand – so keep an eye out for us! 122 N. Main St., Lindsborg, Kansas, blacksmithcoffee.com

3 Swedish eats to Try Lindsborg celebrates Våffeldagen, or Waffle Day, annually. Stop by Blacksmith on March 23 for waffles topped with maple whipped cream and bacon.

Kalkonsmörgås is a Swedish-style sandwich featuring turkey, cranberry-cheese spread, Provolone and coleslaw on rye served at the shop. There are several Scandinavian versions of cinnamon rolls; try Blacksmith’s housemade take for sweet fika treat. Turn to p. 43 to learn about fika, the Swedish coffee break.

photos by jim turner

Holmberg & Johnson Blacksmith Shop, Blacksmith Coffee Shop & Roastery produces premium, single-origin coffees in Lindsborg, Kansas – aka Little Sweden, USA. Owner Molli Esping and her family took over the shop, which opened in 2008, about four years ago, and spent 2016 combining the café and roastery and renovating the old blacksmith building, which was once used to craft horseshoes and wagon wheels for homesteaders. Lindsborg was first settled in 1869 by a group of Swedish immigrants, led by Olof Olsson, and was largely populated by Swedes in the 1890s. Today, about 30 percent of the population boasts a Swedish heritage, and the city hosts Svensk Hyllngsfest, a biennial Swedish festival. Blacksmith offers 20 different roasts, including the Kansas 1861 blend with notes of elderberry, Sandhill plum and milk chocolate; and the darker Swedish Morkrost, a Vienna roast with notes of chocolate and tropical fruit.

owner, Blacksmith Coffee Shop & Roastery

DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

Nitro coffee is a favorite among cold-brew fans; the java gets a hit of nitrogen to give it a rich, foamy head. The draft latte is a close cousin that ups the ante with milk and flavorings such as bourbon and vanilla. -Natalie Gallagher ▶ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Customers at The Coffee Ethic in Springfield, Missouri, love the shop’s nitrogen-infused cold brew: The velvety body and smooth coffee flavor sort of resembled a Guinness. “While still delicious, [iced lattes] lack the texture that hot lattes get from steaming milk,” says general manager Nathan Murphy. To that end, The Coffee Ethic mixes cold brew concentrate (which offers more stability over time than espresso), milk and housemade vanilla syrup in a four-gallon keg before infusing it with pure nitrogen and letting it condition for 12 hours. Once the keg is ready, it’s as easy to serve as pouring a draft beer. 124 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, thecoffeeethic.com photo by tessa cooper

 KANSAS CITY Hail! Coffee, a mobile delivery and event-based coffee service, created its draft latte program thanks in part to customer demand. “You get a cold latte that has a creamier texture and richer flavor,” says co-owner Caleb Roye. The Hail! Coffee draft latte is a combination of Monarch Coffee’s Emissary Concentrate, sweetened condensed milk and burnt-sugar simple syrup. It’s available at Monarch this spring; Hail! Coffee is also available for public and private events, where it serves both nitro cold brew and draft lattes on tap from a bicycle.

At The Filling Station’s Midtown and Westport locations in Kansas City, the draft latte has been a smash hit. The secret is the syrup, which blends bourbon and vanilla beans for a sweet, grown-up flavor. The Filling Station starts with nitro cold brew, which is kept on draft; each drink is made-to-order by a barista, who combines cold brew, syrup and cold whole milk. The end result is a frothy, thick drink that feels as luxurious as a milkshake. “It’s that flavor combination that really puts it over the top,” says Midtown floor manager Spencer Hanson.

hailcoffeekc.com

multiple locations, fillingstationcoffee.com

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DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

◀ Independence, MO.

Scandinavia Place Written by Jordan Baranowski / photography by zach bauman

Scandinavia Place is one of the oldest shops in Independence, Missouri: Nina Anders, who moved to the U.S. from Iceland in 1946, opened the market in 1987. Scandinavia Place offers a variety of imported goods; products from countries like Poland and Turkey are featured as well. The shop also carries local items, as Anders aims to offer interesting things, regardless of origin. If you’re looking for a little slice of Scandinavia to take home, browse items like cloudberry preserves, gjetöst and Icelandic glacial water. The shop also hosts special events highlighting local makers. 209 N. Main St., Independence, Missouri, facebook.com/scandinaviaplacellc

3 Must-Try Scandinavian Treats

candy Scandinavia Place offers plenty of imported candies, including traditional Icelandic chocolate from Noi Sirius. Its biggest seller, though, is old world-style Knudsen’s Caramels out of Red Wing, Minnesota.

Lefse

Pickled Herring

The shop offers lefse potato flatbread made with traditional methods from Norseland, a small Norwegian company in Minnesota.

Scandinavia Place imports several varieties of Abba brand pickled herring, including flavors marinated in oil, dill and mustard sauce. Give them a spin in the Swedish smørrebrød recipe on p. 58.

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ONE on

with

Kaley Gann /

operations manager, Messenger Coffee Co.

kaley gann’s

3 Favorite Brewing Methods Written by Lauren Miers photography by anna petrow

 KANSAS CITY. Kaley Gann, operations

manager at Messenger Coffee Co. in Kansas City, marked eight years in the coffee industry by snagging third place in the nation in the Brewers Cup at the 2018 U.S. Championship in Seattle and second place in the Brewers Cup at the 2019 qualifier in Denver. Next, she’ll compete with the nation’s best coffee professionals at the 2019 U.S. Coffee Championships in Kansas City in March.

beehouse

“This classic pour-over method is super user-friendly and consistent. I like it because it's easy to make pretty much any coffee taste good.”

chemex

“The Chemex is consistent, clean and easy to use. You can easily create and adjust the recipes and ratios, plus it’s large enough to brew at least two cups at once.”

What’s the coffee scene like in Kansas City, and what role does Messenger play? It’s booming. It has a really healthy balance between specialty and third-wave coffee and more traditional coffee. Our goal in the coffee scene is to source coffee that will ultimately benefit the lives of the farmers. We’re not trying to have the craziest coffee out there or just cater to a specific audience. We care about farm representation and making sure that we’re doing good things on a local and global scale, both on the coffee farm and in Kansas City. The Brewers Cup is one of the five competition categories that make up the U.S. Coffee Championships. What does it entail? Brewers Cup is a 10-minute presentation using your own coffee while explaining to judges how you brewed it and [describing] flavor. The other half is a round that measures the brewer's skill with a coffee that they are unfamiliar with. Each competitor uses the same

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

coffee, has a very short time to develop a recipe for it, then serves it to judges. Whichever recipe tastes best wins. This competition essentially showcases the brewer's skill. Competing requires a lot of discipline, organization and using various skills, like writing speeches and working hard under pressure. There’s also the scientific aspect of it – knowing how to brew a recipe and do it well. The U.S. Coffee Championships are being held in Kansas City next month. Why is this significant? I think that CoffeeChamps recognizes there’s a lot in Kansas City that aligns with the interests of the people coming – a lot of coffee shops and a lot of really great cuisine and drinks. It’s a prime place to host a championship. We have places like Messenger Coffee going out there every year, competing and placing well. People are starting to notice the Midwest. 1624 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, messengercoffee.co

toddy

“Not only do toddy brewers make excellent, smooth iced coffee, but they’re very low maintenance and require little effort to [use]. You can add as much water [as] needed to make the coffee taste great. I also like to cut cold brew with milk to make something like a latte.”

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Macklind

Matthew Borchardt

chef-owner Edibles & Essentials

loves

the mack bar and grill

Business District

Edibles & Essentials is located in St. Louis Hills, near the Southampton neighborhood where the Macklind Business District is located.

ST. LOUIS photo by Jerry Naunheim Jr

“There’s so much going on in Southampton and St. Louis Hills, and

The number of local cafés and restaurants in the Macklind Business District keeps growing thanks

so much to do. We have everything

to community support. The majority of restaurants in the district are located along Macklind Avenue

from wonderful shops to great long-

between Devonshire Avenue and Neosho Street in the Southampton neighborhood; others, like

standing watering holes like The Mack

Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, Smoking Barrels BBQ and Craft Beer Cellar are all less than a 20 minute-walk

shopping local or small, there’s no better

away. With spots specializing in everything from brunch and coffee to pub food and creative

neighborhood to do that in!"

[Bar and Grill]. When people talk about

cocktails, the district manages to be both family-friendly by day and hopping at night.-Liz Miller

Russell’s on Macklind and Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee

photo of russel's by demond meek; photo of lola jean's by emily teater; photo of copper pig by mabel suen

Russell’s

Since opening Russell’s on Macklind in 2013, Russell Ping has played a vital role in the continued development of the neighborhood. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch and boasting a full bar, Russell’s real signature is its gorgeous and decadent desserts and pastries. Ping’s second concept, Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee, opened down the block last year, offering a wide selection of coffee drinks and pastries, with 100 percent of its proceeds donated to local nonprofits.

Keep an eye out for the third location of Clementine's Naughty & Nice Creamery, slated to open soon at 4175 Macklind Ave.

5400 Murdoch Ave., macklind.russellscafe.com 5400 Nottingham Ave., lolajeanscoffee.com

The Spanish Harlem

Charm Me Sweet Candy Store

Espresso Yourself Coffee & Café

The Mack Bar and Grill

Copper Pig

Whether you’re out with the kids or just a kid at heart, you’re bound to find some nostalgic favorites at Charm Me Sweet Candy Store. Penny candy and old-fashioned sweets like Valomilk, rock candy sticks and saltwater taffy are stocked alongside international offerings such as Canel’s rum-flavored gum, Milka raisin-nut-chocolate bars and Meiji Chocorooms, crispy crackers coated in milk and dark chocolate.

Specialty coffee drinks, breakfast bites and baked goods are the focus at Espresso Yourself Coffee & Café, a relative newcomer to the neighborhood. The spot uses roasts from local Stringbean Coffee Co. Pair a slice of spinach-artichoke quiche or baklava with a seasonal latte like the The Delight Mint, with notes of dark chocolate and mint, or the Cloud 9, with raspberry and white chocolate flavorings.

4915 Macklind Ave., facebook.com/charmmesweet

Every neighborhood needs a low-key spot to grab a great burger and a bucket of beers, and that’s exactly what The Mack Bar and Grill offers patrons. If you’re just meeting friends for beers, shareable smoked Gouda mac 'n' cheese bites or fried pickles might be all you want, although the best food deals are the weekly specials. Stop in on Monday nights or all day Friday for half-off burgers, when you can get a classic charbroiled hamburger for as cheap as $3.25.

5351 Devonshire Ave., espressoyourselfcafe.com

Dishes at Copper Pig are inspired by a range of global cuisine. Appetizers include muhammara, a hot-pepper dip, and khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread. For brunch, don't miss the breakfast bánh mì with bacon and Vietnamese bologna. Cocktails are just as creative and fun; try the Spanish Harlem, a spicy take on the traditional Manhattan made with raspberry-bourbon lemonade and Ancho Reyes chile liqueur.

4615 Macklind Ave., mackbarandgrill.com

4611 Macklind Ave., stlcopperpig.com / f e br u a ry 2 019

with

ONE on

Gerd Hedman /

co-owner, Hedman Vineyards What first brought you to Alto Pass? I’m a physical therapist, and I was offered an interesting job in Carbondale. My husband came with me because our kids had moved out, and he wanted to have some adventure, too. But then he actually bought a farm – and that was 25 years ago. When we bought this place, it was a peach orchard. You can’t grow peaches in Sweden; it’s too far north, [so] you import them from Spain. We thought, let’s try to grow exotic peaches! Which is not exotic in this area, but for us, it was. That’s how it started: We made wine of peaches, then we started to plant [wine] grapes. [Anders] had been making wine in Sweden for years, but not professionally.

Written by nancy stiles photography courtesy hedman vineyards

 ALTO PASS, IL. Over the past two

decades, Anders and Gerd Hedman have steadily grown their farm, restaurant, winery, event space, gift shop and bed and breakfast at Hedman Vineyards in Alto Pass, Illinois, 16 miles south of Carbondale. The native Swedes have infused Scandinavian touches into all aspects of the business, from traditional woodwork on the barn to imported Swedish soda at the restaurant. You can find Hedman Vineyards wines at select stores in Carbondale, as well as the winery.

What are Swedish-style wines typically like? It’s a little drier. We make both dry and sweet wines, but not so much of the sweet, actually – more of the dry. Then we make the traditional Swedish wine, glögg, which is mulled with a lot of spices. Tell us about your restaurant’s menu. The Swedish meatballs are popular. Since we’re a fish nation, we have salmon on a cedar plank with Hollandaise. We have a Swedish dessert, Tosca cake, [a buttery, almond-based sponge cake], that’s served warm with vanilla ice cream; that’s really popular. In the summer, we grow a lot of the vegetables ourselves and use our own spices. Everything’s made from scratch; we bake bread every day. What do you love about your home in Alto Pass? [We’re in the] Shawnee National Forest – it’s a beautiful area. We have quite a few people who have a Scandinavian background who come here because they hear about us. We actually go back [to Sweden] every year, and we go back and forth. We like both countries very well. 560 Chestnut St., Alto Pass, Illinois, peachbarn.com

sig

nature

hedman vineyards wines

Norton The vineyards are part of the Shawnee Hills AVA, one of the few places in the country Norton is grown outside of Missouri. At Hedman, the estate-grown, deep-red dry Norton is aged for two years in oak barrels.

Chardonel The Hedmans pride themselves on European- and Swedish-influenced wines that still highlight the terroir of southern Illinois. The Chardonel is a prime example: It’s dry, with an aroma of vanilla and butter.

Glögg This traditional Swedish specialty is made with Norton wine mulled with spices. Served warm, it's perfect for cold winter months. photos by clayton blake photography

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

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chimney cakes

These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours. WRITTEN BY NANCY STILES

▼ GERALD, MO.

Bistro at the Mill

▲ BARNHART, MO.

Sherwood’s Classic Eats

◣ BLOOMSDALE, MO.

The Dew Drop Inn After 93 years, The Dew Drop Inn is still a favorite in Bloomsdale, Missouri. In a town of only 500, The Dew Drop and its sister restaurant, The Kozy Kitchen, see about 14,000 customers a month. Owner Cara Naeger bought The Kozy Kitchen in 2013 with brother RJ Clements and their mother, Dona Welker; Naeger, RJ and their brother, Eric Clements, bought The Dew Drop two years later. The family renovated the 1897 building, which was originally a flour mill, and moved the two restaurants under one roof. Naeger’s husband, Judd, developed The Dew Drop's new menu, including a smashed burger with hand-cut fries, wings and the best-selling pulled pork nachos. Don't miss the crispy pizzas, as well, like Thomas' Taste of Ste. Genevieve, with local Baetje Farms goat cheese and slices of Oberle Meats' pork and beef hot dog.

In Barnhart, Missouri, locals love to grab burgers at Sherwood’s Classic Eats, a restaurant attached to a Mobile on the Run gas station. In addition to classic burgers, the restaurant also serves chimney cakes. The classic Eastern European street food is a cylindrical cake stuffed and topped with a variety of treats. Owner Tiffany Lindsey ordered a special oven from Europe that rotates the dough like a rotisserie until it’s soft and warm on the inside, and a little crispy on the outside. Fill them with your choice of Nutella, peanut butter or ice cream and top with coconut, Oreos, rainbow sprinkles or Nutter Butter. The diner, which serves breakfast all day plus smashed burgers and country fried steak, is named after Lindsey’s father. 1725 Catlin Dr., Barnhart, Missouri, sherwoodsclassiceats.com photo by kat niehaus

Four years ago, Jeannie Parker and her sister, Kay Maune, were traveling from Branson, Missouri, to Jefferson City, and decided to drive through Gerald, Missouri, (population 1,375) to visit their old family flour mill – which Jeannie had never seen before. She and her husband ended up buying the property, and began renovations. Soon after, they opened Bistro at the Mill. The mill was built by Parker’s grandfather, Gustave Helling, and her great-grandfather, Peter Helling, in 1901. The menu is somewhat inspired by Parker’s travels across Europe as a child: You can grab gyros with housemade tzatziki, stuffed grape leaves, a German-style Reuben or Italian beef. Keep an eye out this year for a newly renovated upper-level event space.

710 U.S. Hwy 61, Bloomsdale, Missouri, dewdropmo.com

315 S. Pine St., Gerald, Missouri, facebook.com/bistroatthemill

photo by danielle rayoum

photo courtesy bistro at the mill

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SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE DIRECTOR HEALTH AND WELLNESS, SCHNUCKS

FLAT IRON STEAK

WITH SUMATRA COFFEE RUB 1 (1-pound) Flat Iron Steak 2 tablespoons super-finely ground Sumatra coffee beans 1 tablespoon garlic pepper 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon ancho chili powder Combine rub ingredients in small bowl; press generously onto beef steak. Place steak on grid over medium, ash-covered coals. Grill, covered, 10 to 14 minutes for medium rare (145°F) to medium (160°F) doneness, turning occasionally. SPICY CHIMICHURRI Recipe yields 1 ½ cups. 1 cup fresh parsley leaves, packed ½ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup cilantro leaves, packed 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 jalapeno, chopped and seeded 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes ½ teaspoon ground cumin Add all ingredients to a blender or food processor and pulse until combined. Serve with grilled steak. Leftover chimichurri can be frozen. PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SCHNUCKS

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Growing up on a farm in a little town in Nebraska, beef has been on my dinner table for as long as I can remember. A great steak thoughtfully prepared can certainly be part of a nutritious meal. Be on the lookout for lean protein choices such as the tenderloin, sirloin, flank and flat iron steaks.

Power Pairings. With Valentine’s Day approaching it seems like the perfect time to point out that,

like those adorable couples in romantic comedies, some foods are “better together”, too. By combining certain foods it can dramatically deepen the flavor.

Tantalize Your Taste Buds. Did you know that in addition to sweet, salty, bitter and sour, your taste buds have a fifth taste? Known as “umami” from the Japanese word for “delicious”, this fifth taste is described as meaty and savory. Part of umami’s great flavor power comes from pairing together umami-rich foods. When umami compounds from different foods are combined, they have a magnifying effect on each other. In fact, a mixture of two umamirich foods can produce eight times as much flavor as either one of the foods alone. For example beef pairs exceptionally well with blue cheese, mushrooms, red wine or coffee. Talk about bringing out the best in one another! Beef + Coffee = True Love. Some

coffee beans taste richer and have more umami than others. That’s why we’ve chosen to use a Sumatra coffee for our steak rub as it tends to be roasted darker to enhance the herbaceous flavors. Stop by a Schnucks meat counter for the best service and selection. For a special steak night our butchers recommend Certified Angus Beef. Once you have your steaks, use these recipes to create the perfect date-night dinner right at home.

Stay In SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Kladdkaka literally translates to “sticky cake” in Swedish. Consider it the Swedish version of the American brownie: rich, chewy, chocolatey and absolutely perfect. With a texture somewhere between gooey butter cake, molten chocolate cake and fudge, kladdkaka is especially nice when paired with lingonberry jam and hot tea. This recipe comes together quickly, made with ingredients likely already in your pantry. Written by Christy Augustin, chef-owner, Pint Size Bakery in St. Louis Photography by jennifer silverberg

Swedish Sticky Chocolate Cake Serves 8 to 10 11 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted, In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the divided whisk attachment, whisk together sugar, salt ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp cocoa powder, and eggs until pale yellow. Sift cake flour and divided remaining cocoa powder into egg mixture, 1½ cups granulated sugar whisking well to combine. Add remaining ¼ tsp kosher salt melted butter and vanilla extract, stirring 2 eggs ¾ cup cake flour until evenly incorporated. 1 Tbsp vanilla extract powdered sugar (to serve) Spread batter into prepared cake pan. Bake fresh berries, fruit jam, whipped for 20 to 25 minutes until the top is crispy cream or ice cream (to serve) / preparation / Preheat oven to 325°F.

Line an 8-inch round cake pan with a circle of parchment paper; grease pan with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle bottom and sides with 1 tablespoon cocoa powder.

pair with: coffee stout Turn to p. 43 to learn more about fika, the Swedish coffee break, when this gooey chocolate cake is often served.

and the center is jiggly but not runny. Don’t overbake, or it won’t have a sticky, gooey center once cooled.

Run a knife around the edge of cake pan and invert onto a plate. Flip cake again to serve crust-side up. Dust cake with powdered sugar and serve with fresh berries, fruit jam, whipped cream or ice cream, if desired.

PA I R IT!

The dark malts in coffee stouts stand up well to the bold flavors of kladdkaka. Try the Coffee Maple Stout from Six Mile Bridge in Maryland Heights, Missouri: The beer is brewed with 100-percent Vermont maple syrup, but it’s the Guatemalan coffee beans that add subtle bitterness and roasted notes, cutting through the richness. –Justin Phelps sixmilebridgebeer.com

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Swedish-Style

Cardamom Rolls story and photography by Julia Calleo

Cardamom rolls are a standard Swedish sweet â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a lot of fun to make at home. I highly recommend toasting whole cardamom pods in the skillet and then grinding them yourself instead of using ground cardamom from a spice jar: It captures the true bold flavor of cardamom without any dull bites. Both flaky and buttery, these warm, spiced rolls are now a staple in my home during the long and cold winter months.

 Start Here This recipe yields abo ut 20 rolls.

In a mixing bowl, combine ¹⁄₃ cup melted unsalted ● butter, ½ cup light brown sugar, 2 teaspoons ground cardamom and 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon. Refrigerate until step 6. Dissolve 2 packages active-dry yeast into ¼ cup ● warm water and add 1 tablespoon granulated sugar.

Let's Roll!

Set aside to rest for at least 5 minutes. In a saucepot over medium heat, heat 2 cups whole ● milk until it just reaches a simmer. Add 1 cup unsalted butter, ½ cup granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1½ teaspoon ground cardamom; stir. Turn off heat and allow mixture to cool until warm to the touch. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough ● hook attachment, add 1½ cups all-purpose flour. At

Form dough into a ball and transfer to a lightly ● greased mixing bowl. Cover with a dish towel and let rise

Remove dough ball onto a floured work surface; ● punch down. Roll dough into a 16-by-24-inch rectangular

until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

slab. Divide filling evenly over slab and spread until thin, leaving about ¼-inch of room around the edges.

Starting with the shorter side of rectangular ● dough slab, fold dough into a pamphlet shape (a third to

Carefully and slowly, using a rolling pin, gently roll ● dough slab until rectangle is 12 inches wide. Slice entire

Working with 1 strip at a time and starting at the ● end closest to the tips of your fingers, twist, wrap and

the center, and then the other third over the first flap).

dough slab into 2-centimeter-wide strips.

loop strips into rolls (instructions continued in step 10).

Using three fingers in one hand while still holding ● the top strip with the same hand, wrap the bottom end

Remove your fingers from roll and loop the rest of ● the strand in a circle to form a nest shape. Line a baking

Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a small bowl, beat 2 eggs; ● brush tops of rolls with egg. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes.

of the strip with the opposite hand around 3 of your fingers 2 to 3 times.

sheet with parchment paper. Transfer rolls to sheet, cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour.

Remove and immediately sprinkle granulated sugar over top. Serve warm with hot coffee or tea.

medium-low speed, alternate adding warm milk mixture and yeast mixture, plus 4 cups flour. Mix for 8 minutes, adding up to 1 cup flour if needed until smooth and elastic.

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PROMOTION

[ 1

IN GOOD WITH

THE RESEARCH BEHIND THE BENEFITS OF WHOLE GRAINS IN YOUR DAILY DIET

WITH HANK DART

Prevention and Control Expert at Siteman Cancer Center What’s old is new again: An influx of healthconscious consumers coupled with a desire for throwback recipes has rekindled an interest in whole grains. It’s a food trend doctors and nutritionists are happily embracing, too. “Decades of research have long shown the health benefits of eating whole grains over refined grains, like white bread and white rice,” says Hank Dart, who works in prevention and control for Siteman Cancer Center. “Whole grains are rich in fiber and other important nutrients, and have been found to lower the risk of diabetes, heart disease, certain cancers and even premature death.” The grain category includes several foods that are everyday diet staples, such as wheat, rice and oats, and it is also made up of some lesser-known varieties, like millet and spelt. But even simple seeds can sow confusion. You can’t swing a sack of bulgur flour without hitting a food that’s marketed as “whole grain” or “ancient grain.” But what, exactly, do those terms mean?

For starters, know that all whole grains are considered ancient grains (“ancient grain” itself is an unofficial, loosely defined classification) because the seeds have stayed pretty much the same for thousands of years. Then things get a little more scientific. “What makes a grain a whole grain is that it includes the three parts of the naturally occurring grain kernel — bran, germ and endosperm. The bran and the germ are filled with many healthy compounds. And it is the bran and germ that get removed in the processing of ‘refined’ grains,” Dart explains. That’s a big deal, because those healthy compounds include vitamins, minerals and fiber. To be sure you really know what you’re getting at the grocery store, Dart advises consumers to pay close attention to food labels, and choose foods that list “whole” or “whole grain” as their first ingredient. Beware of high sugar content, too. Breakfast cereals and snack bars are frequent

culprits: Even if they contain a substantial amount of whole grain, they are often packed with sugar. While nutritionists and health-care professionals generally agree that whole grains have more benefits than refined grains, it’s not necessary to toss out every box of white rice and replace it with brown. It is recommended, however, that at least half of the grains we eat are whole grains. In fact, Dart says, combining whole grains and refined grains can be a good way to transition to that goal: He suggests mixing brown rice with white rice, and whole wheat pasta with regular pasta. Your recommended daily total of whole grains (about three to four ounces for most adults) is pretty easy to fulfill. Just two cups of cooked brown rice or three to four slices of whole wheat bread will do the trick. Whole grains are healthy, delicious and on-trend — all solid arguments for living a life that’s just a little less refined.

AMARANTH FRITTERS WITH GARLIC YOGURT SAUCE YIELDS | 4-6 SERVINGS | Garlic Yogurt Sauce 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp Dijon mustard ¾ cup Greek yogurt 1 Tbsp fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped 1 tsp fresh mint leaves, chiffonade juice and zest of 1 medium lemon kosher salt, to taste Amaranth Fritters 1 cup uncooked amaranth 1 ½ cups unsalted chicken stock tsp kosher salt 2 large eggs, beaten 1/3 cup Parmesan-Reggiano, finely shredded 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 bunch scallions (5 to 6), white and light green parts only, sliced into thin rings 2/3 cup fresh parsley leaves, lightly packed, roughly chopped 1/3 cup fresh mint leaves, lightly packed, chiffonade ¼ cup fresh fresh basil leaves, lightly packed, chiffonade 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp chile flakes 1/3 cupunbleached all-purpose flour Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

| preparation - garlic yogurt sauce | Heat olive oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in Dijon mustard, and let cool slightly. Add yogurt to medium bowl; scrape oil mixture into yogurt and whisk to blend. Add parsley, mint, lemon juice and zest; stir to combine; add kosher salt to taste; and transfer to refrigerator to chill, 1 hour. | preparation - amaranth fritters | Bring amaranth, chicken stock and kosher salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 25 minutes; remove from heat, keep covered, and allow to stand for 15 minutes until all liquid is absorbed. Let cool to lukewarm. Meanwhile, add eggs, Parmesan, garlic, scallions, parsley, mint, basil, salt and chile flakes to a large bowl; stir until all ingredients are combined. Add prepared amaranth and flour; fold all ingredients together until everything is evenly distributed. Preheat oven to 200˚F and line a plate with paper towels. In a large, heavybottomed skillet, heat enough peanut or vegetable oil to cover the pan by 1/4inch to medium-high heat; oil is ready when a drop of batter sizzles immediately upon entering skillet. Using a 2 oz (about 1/4 cup) ice cream scoop to portion batter, pressing to form a ball and using palm to flatten bottom. Carefully release into oil, 3 to 4 at a time, and use spatula to gently flatten into 1/2-inch thick patties. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until browned. Carefully flip using two spatulas, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more until crisp. Transfer to paper towel-lined plate to drain, then transfer to shallow casserole dish and place in warm oven to hold. Repeat with remaining batter. | to serve | Divide warm Amaranth Fritters onto plates and serve alongside Garlic Yogurt Sauce.

]

UNREFINE YOUR DIET WITH WHOLE GRAINS 2

1) AMARANTH Amaranth was held in such high regard in ancient Greece that it symbolized immortality. Today, the plant is credited with helping everything from rashes to migraines. More than 60 species of amaranth (also called pigweed) grow worldwide, and its roots, stems, leaves and seeds are all edible. Pop the gluten-free grain like popcorn, simmer it for breakfast, or toss it in soups and stews to lend them nuttiness and extra heft. Nutritionists confirm amaranth’s many health benefits — even if immortality isn’t one of them. It aids digestion, tames inflammation, strengthens bones and lowers cholesterol. One cup of amaranth provides more than a third of the recommended daily amount of magnesium and iron, and more protein than just about any other plant-based food. 2) FARRO Think of farro as the perfect gateway whole grain: It has the familiar mild taste of brown rice, a pleasantly nutty aroma, and it’s versatile enough to incorporate into soups, salads, porridge and pastas. Farro was originally cultivated thousands of years ago in the Fertile Crescent and has been a staple of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cooking ever since. It’s been called the great-grandfather of wheat grains, and it is finally gaining traction in the U.S. Like barley and millet, farro (also known as emmer) is an unprocessed whole grain, a kind that’s generally higher in fiber, protein, antioxidants and iron than refined grains. See our recipe below for a wild mushroom “risotto” made with farro — paired with a salad, it’s a light and lovely dinner. 3) MILLET Millet is a round, tiny grass seed grown everywhere from North Dakota to Southeast Asia; it can be red, yellow, green or brown; and it’s used to make everything from bread to beer to birdseed. Vegetarians often incorporate millet into their diets as a top source of protein, and it’s quite literally a lifesaver for infants in developing countries. Though millet on its own can walk the line between nutty and sweet, it plays beautifully with a host of other flavors. Bring it to a boil with some milk for an alternative to oatmeal, cook it with chicken instead of rice, or double down on millet’s subtle sweetness by adding dark chocolate to make puffed millet snacks. 4) QUINOA Unlike other trendy superfoods — goji berries, we hardly knew ye — quinoa has proved it’s got staying power. That’s due in large part to its adaptability, and in small part because it’s fun to say. The nutty ancient grain grows along the western edge of South America where it’s traditionally paired with black beans and avocado, and also used in stews. Quinoa’s many varieties include purple, black, red and white. The latter is the mellowest of the bunch, so it’s a good one to try first — give it a quick rinse before cooking to shake off its bitter coating. Because it’s gluten-free, high in fiber and in protein, quinoa has a reputation for being a darling of the health-conscious set, but it’s also terrific in comfort-food classics including chili, casseroles and skillets. 5) SPELT After thousands of years of popularity in Europe and the Middle East, spelt finally made its way to North America in the early 1900s — but then it was quickly overshadowed by other kinds of wheat. It has been a long time coming for spelt, but it is now commonly found in health-food stores as ground flour or whole kernels (spelt berries). Spelt is shaped like skinny almonds, and it has a nutty flavor. As a flour, it’s used in foods from pretzels to biscuits to croissants to cakes. Spelt outpaces most other wheat when it comes to protein content and amino acids, and it’s easier to digest — though not gluten free. It’s a friend to the immune system, bladder and kidneys, and some research suggests it can even help improve cognitive function and muscle coordination as well.

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This Nordic sipper is perfect for a night by the fire spent dreaming of warmer weather.

Written by Rogan Howitt, co-owner, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

Sipped neat, aquavit's savory flavors evoke a cozy Scandinavian winter. Add citrus, and you’ll discover that its versatility allows for summer-style drinking, as well.

Look for pear liqueur at specialty wine and spirits shops.

Aquavit,

a Scandinavian grain spirit enriched with herbs – most often caraway and dill – has been around since the 15th century, but now it’s gaining in popularity in the Midwest. Minnesota, which has the largest population of Scandinavian-Americans in the U.S., has paved the way for an aquavit boom in the past few years.

Rites of Spring Serves 1 Oleo Saccharum (Yields 2 ounces) 4 oranges 4 lemons ½ cup granulated sugar Rites of Spring Cocktail 1½ oz aquavit 1 oz white vermouth ¼ oz pear liqueur 1 Tbsp oleo saccharum (recipe below) 2 dashes bitters lemon peel, for garnish star anise, for garnish / preparation – oleo saccharum / Peel the skins of lemons and oranges, with as little pith (the white skin below the surface) as possible. In a medium bowl, combine peels and sugar and toss. Muddle with a muddler or using the handle of a wooden spoon until sugar is dissolved. Cover and refrigerate; let mixture rest for at least 3 hours, up to 24, stirring occasionally. (The longer the rest, the greater the yield of syrup.) Strain using a fine-mesh strainer. Press oils from citrus peels into mixture. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. / preparation – rites of spring cocktail / In a mixing glass, combine aquavit, vermouth, pear liqueur and oleo saccharum and add ice. Stir until glass has fully chilled; it should be foggy and cool to the touch. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Top with bitters. Twist lemon peel over cocktail to express oils. Garnish with lemon peel, float star anise on top and serve.

I recommend using Tattersall Distilling Co.’s aquavit in this drink; lightly oaked and herb-forward, its citrus notes come from the oleo saccharum, made from muddling citrus peels with sugar. The technique pulls oils from the fruit to create a powerful natural citrus syrup often used in punches. / f e br u a ry 2 019

Peruvian Dining

in SpringField MO DUTCH FUSION

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SWEET IDEAS / HOW TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Bone Broth

Visit feastm agazine.com to learn abou t even more local bone-b roth produc ers, including Unb akery and Juicery in K ansas City.

Warm up this winter with a cup or bowl of flavorful and healthful bone broth. Written by Nancy Stiles / photo by j. pollack photography

Bone broth from Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri, is a must when the temperature is below freezing. You can pick up a quart of broth to take home, but we prefer a coffee-style to-go cup to sip one of Bolyard’s three warming options: pork with apples and Chinese five-spice, beef with lemongrass and ginger or chicken with turmeric and sage. bolyardsmeat.com

In Lenexa, Kansas, The Broth Pot makes from-scratch bone broths that are sold frozen and will last up to six months; owner Shelly Murray recommends drinking about half a cup per day. The Broth Pot offers a traditional chicken bone broth as well as bison broth made with kombu, a Japanese seaweed rich in vitamins and minerals. thebrothpot.com

At Evolve Paleo, the Kansas City-based meal-delivery service, there are several broths to choose from – including vegetarian. Try the Dr. Heal Good chicken bone broth with turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, apple cider vinegar and lemons, or Vietnamese-inspired Pho Good beef bone broth with lemongrass, organic ginger, garlic, mushrooms and coconut aminos. Order online for delivery or pick up at one of its four Kansas City-area locations. evolvepaleochef.com

KB Wellness Bone Broth in St. Louis uses locally sourced grass-fed beef, pasture-raised chicken and organic herbs and spices to make its chicken and beef broths. You can grab KB’s bone broths (plus a veggie option) at several markets around the St. Louis area, plus Columbia Strength and Conditioning in Columbia, Missouri. kbbonebroth.com

Mama Jean’s Natural Market in Springfield, Missouri, debuted housemade sipping broths in January. Available at all three locations as well as MJ’s Market and Deli, the bone broth, served in a 12-ounce cup, is made with local, grass-fed organic beef marrow bones from Black Gate Farms and organic vegetables. Add a dash of ginger or turmeric for a slight upcharge. mamajeansmarket.com

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SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

black Cardamom Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What Is It? Black cardamom may be a relative of both ginger and green cardamom, but with a vastly different personality. Where green cardamom has a subtle sweetness ideal for cakes and breads, the black variety is twice the size and all shadow and smoke, due in part to being blackened over an open fire. The drying method produces a parched, crackly pod imbued with the heady, intense aroma of camphor and resin. What Do I Do With It? Black cardamom is traditionally used across North Africa and Asia to impart warm wood-smoke flavor in everything from curries to pho. It loves liquids, which give the seeds time to stretch out and work their magic. Toss into braised beef dishes, roasted fish, lentils, collard greens or kale, or pickled winter vegetables like cabbage, cauliflower, onions or carrots. The intense spice plays well with others â&#x20AC;&#x201C; blend it with cumin, coriander, juniper, caraway or fennel to keep its considerable pungency in check. Black cardamom isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hard to find, either: Look for it at spice shops or in most Indian or Asian markets.

Bakers need not apply: This spice is for savory dishes only.

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Roasted Salmon and Pickled Cabbage Smørrebrød You'll need a 32-ounce glass canning jar with a lid Pickled Cabbage to make the pickled 1¼ cup water cabbage. 1¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp granulated sugar 2 tsp kosher salt 3 juniper berries, smashed 2 black cardamom pods 1½ tsp caraway seeds ½ tsp black peppercorns ½ head medium red cabbage, finely shredded 2 cloves garlic, smashed Serves 4

Smørrebrød is most often served on untoasted rye bread in Scandinavia, but here we're toasting our bread for extra sturdiness and crunch.

Roasted Salmon ¹⁄₃ cup plus 1 Tbsp olive oil, divided ¼ cup maple syrup juice of 1 lemon 1½ tsp brown sugar 3 whole black cardamom pods, crushed ¾ tsp red pepper flakes 1 1-lb skinless salmon fillet kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to serve 1 loaf dark pumpernickel bread, thickly sliced and toasted, cooled salted butter, softened kosher salt, to taste / preparation – pickled cabbage / In a large

saucepan over medium-high heat, add water, vinegar, sugar and salt and stir until sugar dissolves. Add juniper berries, black cardamom pods, caraway seeds and black peppercorns and heat until boiling; remove from heat, stir in cabbage, and set aside to cool slightly, 30 minutes. Transfer cabbage to a 32-oz canning jar with a lid; add garlic, and pour vinegar mixture over top to fill. Seal with lid and refrigerate at least 4 hours. / preparation – roasted salmon / Preheat oven

to 300°F. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil into a large, shallow baking dish. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining olive oil, maple syrup, lemon juice, brown sugar, black cardamom pods and red pepper flakes. Add salmon to center of baking dish and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour maple syrup mixture over top. Roast for 30 to 35 minutes, basting every 10 minutes, until salmon is tender and just cooked. Remove and set aside to cool, 20 minutes.

Turn to p. 51 for 5 more open-faced sandwich recipes.

/ to serve / Lay toasted bread out and spread generously with butter; sprinkle with salt to taste. Drain pickled cabbage from liquid and evenly divide over each slice. Using a fork, break up warm salmon into bite-sized pieces and place over cabbage; serve immediately.

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ONE on

with

Abbie Brown /

chef-owner, Brown Abbey Gourmet

Story and photo by Tessa Cooper

When Abbie Brown talks about spices, her eyes light up. After years of playing around with ingredient combinations – including at Lavender Falls Farm in Clever, Missouri – Brown has honed her culinary skills to create her signature all-purpose rub, seasoning, Greek dressing and vanilla-citrus coconut sugar under the brand Brown Abbey Gourmet. You can find her creations online or at Lavender Falls’ retail space at Battlefield Mall in Springfield, Missouri.  CLEVER, MO.

When did you discover your love for cooking? I grew up in a household that didn't have a lot of money. But no matter how scarce things were, my mother made a home-cooked meal every single night. It was absolutely delicious, [despite] how few ingredients there were. This is where my curiosity began; I couldn't wait to experiment with ingredients. I would buy a bit of saffron, fresh vanilla beans, Cameroon peppercorns or sumac; I wanted to taste and

smell them and figure out how I could use these ingredients that were new to me. What inspired you to launch your product line? I truly think the forming of my company came about because of [Lavender Falls Farms owners] Catherine and Thor Bersted. I was working for them, and one day we were taste testing different dressings for their house salad. Everything was mediocre; it just wasn't right. So I put together a dressing that was

exactly what we were after. They began using it at the restaurant, and it was so amazing to hear the positive customer feedback and know that they were talking about my dressing. So I decided to go for it. What do you hope people enjoy most about your products? Hopefully just a good meal. I believe there’s a bit of magic in turning simple ingredients into mouthwatering delicacies, and I have this innate drive in me that's only

satisfied when I see the elation on someone's face as they take their first bite. When I was on a restricted diet, it was almost impossible to find ingredients that didn't have a lot of fillers, and I love that I’ve created a line of products that almost everyone can enjoy. That’s why I've made sure that my company offers ingredients that can reach as many people as possible. brownabbeygourmet.com

abbie brown's

must-try spices 1.

smoked spanish paprika

This vibrant spice adds rich, smoky flavor to dishes, as well as fruity and earthy notes.

vietnamese cinnamon

Vietnamese cinnamon is more aromatic and sweeter than what's likely in your cabinet thanks to a higher oil content.

penja white peppercorns

These white peppercorns are grown in the Penja Valley of Cameroon, where the volcanic soil lends a richer flavor and extra heat.

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Hours:

mon-fri: 10:30am - 8:00pm sat: 11:30am - 7:00pm 11982 Dorsett Rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com

Wh Whiskey is key for the Winter

tasting events every friday

 More than 300 Whiskeys in Stock 10 Minutes from Special Order Available downtown St. Louis  Serving St. Louis & Southern Illinois for 78 years 210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com  

T URNIPS

Celebrate Valentine’s Day “ o n t h e h i l l” 5201 southwest avenue reservations: 314-772-4454 favazzas.com

AND

S WEET P OTATOES

LOCAL I AUTHENTIC I FAM ILY www.oletyme.com

314.436.5010

SERVING RESTAURANTS since 1973

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

Spring

SUNDAY BRUNCH BUFFET at America’s Largest Hofbräuhaus

Festivals and events

10 A.M. – 2 P.M.

Spring is an ideal time of the year to host events and festivals for foodies to enjoy. In this special advertising section, you can profile your upcoming event, with a focus on events that highlight wine, beer and food.

Includes a Complimentary Beermosa or Mimosa

HofbrauhausStLouis.com/brunch

PROMOTION

AN AUTHENTIC GERMAN BREWERY & RESTAURANT

Spring

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march st. louis | food 30 pappy’S SmokehouSe porkapaLooza Sun., Sept. 30, 11am to 5pm

Sat., Sept. 9 to Sun., Sept. 17

Spirits of St. Louis is hosting cocktail highlights at area bars and restaurants as part of its St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration. It has also teamed up with local distilleries and cocktail bars so you can “drink like a local.” This year will highlight bars in the Cherokee Street district. The celebration kicks off with the sixth-annual Classic Cocktail Party on Sat., Sept. 9 from 6 to 9pm. For more information: 314.231.2537; facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek. Location and price vary.

Join Pappy’s Smokehouse (3106 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.535.4340; pappyssmokehouse.com) as the St. Louis barbecue favorite celebrates 10 years! porkapaLooza is a parking-lot bash featuring offerings from Pappy’s, Southern, Bogart’s Smokehouse, Dalie’s Smokehouse, Seoul Taco, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., Mai Lee, Nudo House, Balkan Treat Box, Farmhaus, Anthonino’s Taverna, Strange Donuts, Ices Plain & Fancy, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Center Ice Brewery. Live music includes Lacey Caroline, Tim Montana and The Shrednecks, and

April st. charles | shop CheSt hoLiday expo 16-18 treaSure Fri., Nov. 16 to Sun., Nov. 18. The treaSure CheSt hoLiday expo (treasurechestshows. com) is back in its 11th year. The annual holiday shopping extravaganza has more than 200 booths filled with gift items, one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, gourmet goodies, holiday and home décor, toys, books and more for all your holiday and gift-giving needs. The free event includes free parking and daily special presentations and raffles. Free.

Festivals and events

• Craft Beer Brewed on Site • Extensive Bavarian Menu • Live Entertainment Every Day • Happy Hour 4 - 6 p.m., Mon. - Fri. New Lunch Menu • Mon. - Fri. 10 Items • 10 Minutes • $10

PROMOTION

march st. louis | beverage 09-17 St. LouiS Craft SpiritS & CoCktaiL CeLebration

EDITED BY BENTHANY CRISTO

iliquo inatiusquit; in spimilius am priorum in dicaes, ment? Ra videropone re iptiam din nessolum ipsede es? Natimorae o estribus caudes? int. Hemo vita publius hosuli clum serudam cum audeati dendaci ternihi lintil con hum in tantiam inatuscerri, nonsum eo consitium ta vius. Ibendii tatquid errit, nequam popteri occhuctus seni sentrei is acto mo implii ta pubis cris videtortus facentr untiondit virteritatis acidentu quemus publissu ingulvi denici caelintiam ducestrae dum intimih icepopos hos in re nos, Ti. Vivilintia none atuam potio, C. Pullaris opos es virtuam hac fecerum menimena, mor addum, nonsus moenicaelat, unum morsulici confect uitasdam. At verustis se pubit, nequam patia rei sedo, cultore me deaturo busceris. Itant, quo vocum practam con re actuium et que egilina, sena igitum poribus, quod

Kids Eat Free Mondays

with Purchase of Regular Entrée

HofbrauhausStLouis.com (618) 800-BEER

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feastmagazine.com

march kansas city | beverage 09 independenCe unCorked WinefeSt Sat., Sept. 9, 12 to 6pm

Now in its fifth year, independenCe unCorked (independenceuncorked.com)is the one of the largest wine festivals in the state, featuring 25 Missouri wineries, a guest spirits distiller and 2,400 attendees. Held on the historic grounds of the bingham-Waggoner mansion (313 W. Pacific Ave., Independence, Missouri; 913.999.4708), the event will also feature art, music, beer, food booths and classes on topics such as wine 101 and how beer impacts the wine industry. General admission is $25 in advance and $35 at the door.

April 23

kansas city | food

boySGroW farm feSt 2018 Sun., Sept. 23, 12 to 4pm

The second-annual fall farm feSt (boysgrow.com/events/ boysgrow-farm-fest) is a family-friendly, chef-inspired event featuring renowned chef Lidia Bastianich of Lidia’s Kansas City. Enjoy food from 10 local restaurants, drinks, live music and a Kids’ Zone on the boysGrow farm (BoysGrow, 9301 E. 147th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 773.793.5056; ), all to raise awareness and funding for the nonprofit, which uses agriculture to teach entrepreneurship to the city’s urban male youth. VIP tickets include food in a private tent and a meet-and-greet with chef Bastianich. General admission $50, VIP $100, ages 3 to 21 $15 and free for 3 and under.

April kansas city | beverage 03 end of harveSt CeLebration Sat., Nov. 3 and Sat., Nov. 10, 11am to 9pm

After many months of hard work harvesting grapes for its award-winning wines, balducci Vineyards (6601 S. Highway 94, Augusta, Missouri; 636.482.8466; balduccivineyards.com)is throwing a bash to celebrate the end of the harvest season! Head out to the Augusta, Missouri, winery for live entertainment, food and drink specials, bocce ball and other fun for the entire family, including an evening bonfire with s’mores and mulled wine. Free.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j a n u a ry 2 0 19

j a nu a ry 2 01 9

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Coming in the april issue Call 314-475-1298 for more information Celebrate Golf! Feb. 8-10

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GREAT DEALS ON GOLF GEAR

SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

yields 1 kringle Remonce Filling ½ cup room-temperature unsalted butter ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup room-temperature marzipan, roughly chopped

KRingle A distant relative of the pretzel, kringle is a traditional Scandinavian pastry thought to have originated in Denmark. At Pastries of Denmark in Creve Coeur, Missouri, kringle is served alongside other Danish specialties, including spandauer, cinnamon rolls and Danish. You can buy kringle whole, prepared in a classic ring or pretzel shape, or by the slice in flavors like raspberry-butter, apple-cinnamon and almond-

/ preparation – remonce filling / In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat butter and sugar until smooth. Add marzipan and continue mixing until smooth; refrigerate.

raisin. Here, Danish chef and founder of Pastries of Denmark Kris Vesth

/ preparation – kringle / In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, mix cold water, yeast and egg whites. Add next 4 ingredients and mix until uniform, about 5 minutes. Using a rolling pin, roll out on a floured work surface. Fold dough over once; transfer to a parchment paper-lined plate and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Recipe courtesy Kris Vesth, chef-founder, Pastries of Denmark

Once chilled, fold and roll out dough again to form a rectangular slab; repeat 3 times total, making sure to rotate dough by 90 degrees between each folding. Freeze for 24 hours. Defrost dough until just chilled. Fold and roll once. Cut dough into a long ribbon; discard rough edges. Add remonce filling and cherry-pie filling, using a spatula to evenly distribute over dough. Roll and fold into either a pretzel or ring shape. Refrigerate until dough is chilled. Preheat oven to 325°F. Bake kringle for 10 to 15 minutes. Drizzle chocolate sauce on top and serve.

shares his recipe for cherry-chocolate kringle, perfect for making your Valentine’s Day a little sweeter. -liz miller

Taedra Kant

owner, Supreme Bakery “[My family] moved [to Springfield, Missouri,] from Racine, Wisconsin, to introduce [kringle], something different, unique and delicious. Our Danish kringle comes from a more than 100-year-old recipe, which we make, roll by hand and fill with fruit like raspberry. Try our fruit and cream cheese [flavors], like cherry-cheese; we offer more than 20 flavors. Then we bake [them] with love to perfection and finish by topping them off with our sweet glaze.”

Photo by j. pollack photography

Hungry for more? Visit feastmagazine.com for a kringle recipe topped with a buttermilk glaze.

photo by ana elliott

Kringle 2 Tbsp cold water 1½ Tbsp active-dry yeast 2 egg whites 1¼ granulated sugar 1½ Tbsp kosher salt 1½ cups plus 1 Tbsp all-purpose flour, chilled ½ Tbsp shortening 10 Tbsp salted butter remonce filling (recipe below) almond paste, to taste cherry-pie filling, to taste chocolate sauce, to taste

CHERRY-CHOCOLATE

promotion

From the many great St. Louis-area dining options to spend the holiday, these four places are sure to win the heart of you and your valentine.

Valentine’s Day at LUCAS PARK GRILLE FOUR COURSE DINNER FOR

PER PERSON

Includes Champagne Toast

– A la carte menu also available –

314-241-7770 www.lucasparkgrille.com 1234 Washington Avenue, St. Louis, Mo

edited by bethany ChriSto

rigazzi’s

Mango Peruvian cuisine

Located in St. Louis’ historic Italian neighborhood, RIGAZZI’S is the place for delicious Italian-American cuisine in a casual setting. Known for handmade toasted ravioli and frozen fishbowls, Rigazzi’s offers an extensive menu, including over 50 gluten-free items and its signature Mark’s Special Chopped Salad. rigazzis.com

MANGO PERUVIAN CUISINE serves authentic Peruvian cuisine on Washington Ave. in St. Louis. The atmosphere is relaxed and inviting, where you can enjoy a signature crafted libation at the bar, a quiet dinner for two or a large table with friends. For Valentine’s Day, Mango is offering a four-course prix-fixe and regular menu. mangoperu.com

CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING

Mo n d a y -Fr i d a y S e r v i n g : Br e a k f a s t & Lu n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m Ha p p y Ho u r 3 - 6 p m

cedar lake cellars

Wine and dine with your valentine at CEDAR LAKE CELLARS in Wright City, Missouri, which is offering a four-course dinner for two that includes a bottle of wine to share, all for $150. Head in on Thursday, Friday or Saturday for the romantic dinner, or stop by on Sunday for a special Sweetheart Brunch. cedarlakecellars.com

50/FiFty kitchen

As the name implies, 50/FIFTY KITCHEN in St. Louis dubs itself “half veggie, half not” and caters to all kinds of diets. The complex flavors of its wholesome plant-based fare are exemplified in the pink pesto pasta on its special Valentine’s Day menu. Call for reservations to dine in, or carry out for a romantic dinner at home. facebook.com/5050kitchen

Di n n e r b e g i n n i n g a t 5 p m n i g h t l y Sa t u r d a y & Su n d a y Br u n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m No w Bo o k i n g Pr i v a t e Di n i n g & Ca t e r i n g Or d e r To - Go , Wh o l e Pi e s , & Ba ke s h o p Sp e c i a l t i e s 4646 J C Nichols Pkwy Kansas City, MO (816) 541-3382 • www.r yekc.com Complementar y Garage Parking or Valet Optional

*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800 38

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Winter salads are a staple in my house. I love the sharp and slightly bitter flavors that heartier greens like kale and Belgian endive offer. This salad is rounded out with lighter flavors from crisp green apple slices, warm roasted grapes, toasted hazelnuts, and the real showstopper, Danish blue cheese, with a nutty flavor and beautiful blue-veined streaking. If imported Danish blue cheese isn’t available near you, seek out an Italian Gorgonzola for similar qualities. Written by Amanda Elliott, chef, Peachtree Catering and Rustic Supper in Columbia, Missouri Photo by Drew Piester

serves 4 to 6 Dressing ¼ cup olive oil ¹⁄₈ cup sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp yogurt 2 Tbsp honey salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

with Roasted Grapes and Danish Blue Cheese pair with: Vignoles

Salad 1 cup red seedless grapes, rinsed 1 Tbsp olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ head Napa cabbage, thinly sliced 2 heads Belgian endive, cleaned, halved and quartered 1 Granny Smith apple, quartered, cored and thinly sliced ½ cup crumbled blue cheese ½ cup roughly chopped hazelnuts, toasted

/ preparation – dressing / In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. / preparation – salad / In a small bowl, toss grapes with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. In a small skillet over medium-high heat, add grapes and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until blistered and slightly caramelized. Set aside to cool slightly. In a large serving bowl, add remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add blistered grapes and toss with dressing. Serve immediately.

PA I R IT!

When pairing wine with a salad tossed in an oil-based vinaigrette, you need something with a good amount of acidity. The blue cheese in this salad adds another dimension as well – saltiness. Acidity and salt pair well with something slightly sweet, like the semi-sweet Vignoles from Les Bourgeois Vineyards. Its floral aromas and bold peach flavors play off the salad’s toasted hazelnuts, too. The key here is balance: Salt can increase the perception of sweetness, so stick with a semi-sweet wine rather than something overly sweet. -Hilary Hedges missouriwine.com

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

new drink season Our new winter cocktail menu is releasing soon. Expect some new arrivals as well as some old favorites like Lady Vandivort and By The Fire

HAPPY HOUR:

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

SERVICE INDUSTRY NIGHT:

SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Swedish Meatballs Don’t relegate Swedish meatballs to party buffets and appetizer plates – they’re a delicious and quick main course in their own right. Here, we’re adding a few nontraditional ingredients to the gravy, including soy sauce and lemon juice, and replacing sour cream with heavy cream for a sauce with a slightly thinner texture. Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

MAKE THE MEAL • • • • •

In this class, you’ll learn how to make traditional Danish pancakes topped with lingonberry jam. You’ll also learn how to make a warming, winter-perfect Swedish mushroom soup.

Swedish Mushroom Soup Swedish Meatballs Buttered Pappardelle Noodles Green Beans with Bacon Danish Pancakes with Lingonberry Jam

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Thu., Feb. 28, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704.

Serves 4 to 6

5 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided 1 medium white or yellow onion, grated 1 cup bread crumbs ½ cup whole milk 1 lb ground chuck ½ lb ground pork ¼ lb ground veal 1 egg, slightly beaten ½ tsp ground allspice

¹⁄₃ tsp ground nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp ground white pepper 3 Tbsp all-purpose flour 2 cups unsalted chicken stock 1 tsp soy sauce ½ cup heavy cream 1 tsp fresh lemon juice cooked and buttered pappardelle noodles (to serve)

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 300°F. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add onion and cook until softened, 4 minutes. Transfer onion to a small bowl and let come to room temperature. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, combine bread crumbs and milk and set aside until bread crumbs absorb milk. In a large mixing bowl, mix three ground meats with room-temperature onion, bread crumb mixture, egg, allspice, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. Using lightly wetted hands, form into 2-inch meatballs. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt remaining butter. Sauté meatballs, working in 3 batches, until browned, about 5 minutes per batch. Remove to a sheet pan and place in oven for 10 minutes. Set aside. In a large skillet with a lid over medium-high heat, add flour and whisk to make a roux; cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then slowly add chicken stock, whisking until smooth; cook for 3 minutes more. Add soy sauce, heavy cream and lemon juice; cook 2 minutes more. Reduce heat to medium. Return meatballs and their juices to skillet and cover with lid. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes more. Serve over cooked and buttered pappardelle noodles.

PAir with:

P AI R IT !

Rye Whiskey These meatballs need a cocktail that can stand up to their rich flavor, and with heavy cream in this recipe, you'll want a bold rye. I like Lenexa, Kansas-based Union Horse Distilling Co.’s Barrel Strength Reunion Rye, as it cuts through the richness without overpowering the dish. Use it in a simple Sazerac: Stir together 2 ounces rye, 1 tsp simple syrup, and a few dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters stirred and strained into an absinthe-rinsed glass. -Jenn Tosatto unionhorse.com

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Culi

r na y

with

Ben Klasner /

executive chef, sycamore

Ben Klasner has spent more than 10 years in the kitchen at Sycamore, working his way up from line cook to executive chef. The acclaimed fine-dining spot in downtown Columbia, Missouri, served as the perfect training ground for Klasner. While chef-owner Mike Odette has more of a traditional style, he credits Klasner with experimentation and using modern culinary techniques as well as oft-discarded parts, like celery leaves and vegetable peels. Here, Klasner shares the cookbooks that shaped him. -nancy stiles

How to Cook a Wolf by M.F.K. Fisher (1942) “This book should be required reading – not just for anyone interested in cooking, but for every student in this country. Featuring whip-smart essays from one of the most foundational voices in American culinary [history], this book forever changed the way I thought about not only the history of American food systems, but also the ways they can evolve.”

Charlie Trotter’s by Charlie Trotter (1994) “I found this book on a good friend’s bookshelf all beat up and stained – obviously used in the kitchen, instead of just being something pretty to look at. Upon looking through the book, I felt completely bewildered by the food and at the same time very familiar with it. It became clear to me that this book was a big influence on the people who taught me how to cook. I like to look back on these sun-faded pictures of opaque sauces layered over lovingly prepared and presented dishes and feel a sense of tradition – but also [that I'm a] part of what comes next.”

Vegetable Literacy: Cooking and Gardening with Twelve Families from the Edible Plant Kingdom by Deborah Madison (2013) “As much as we talk about nose-to-tail eating, we often find so much of our vegetables discarded in the trash without really understanding why. This book helped to ask those questions and to provide those answers – what do you do with all those celery leaves? A gorgeous tribute to vegetables of all shapes, sizes and seasons from seed to flower, and how to eat the whole plant.”

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feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

coffee

tools of the trade illustrations by kimberly cho

Brewing a great cup of coffee at home is easier than you think – as long as you’ve got the right tools. We turned to Andrew McCaslin, the lead barista trainer and head of quality control for Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co., based in St. Louis, for his must-haves.

Three-Cup Classic Chemex $38.90, chemexcoffeemaker.com “A tried and true classic. The Chemex is a great choice for coffee-lovers and makes a clean cup of your favorite coffee for one to three people.”

Fika (fee-ka) is more than just a coffee break – for Swedes, it’s an integral part of everyday life. Sure, the concept sounds simple: You take a break with a cup of coffee (or sometimes tea) and pair it with a baked good. But, as defined in Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break, one overarching philosophy sets fika apart: taking a moment to slow down. “To truly fika requires a commitment to making time for a break in your day, the creation of a magical moment in the midst of the routine and the mundane,” authors Anna Brones and Johanna Kindvall write. “Fika is the time when everything else is put on hold.” So, go ahead – take a fika break.

Hario Filter-In Coffee Bottle $32.50, hario.jp “A simple and easy way to make cold brew at home. Place your coffee in the strainer, fill with water and place in the refrigerator overnight. The next morning, you’ll have tasty cold-brewed coffee waiting for you.”

Baratza Grinders prices vary, baratza.com “Baratza has a grinder for all applications. For the espresso-lover, the Baratza Vario-W will last a lifetime and produces incredible results. Filter-lovers, look no further than the Baratza Virtuoso. This is the grinder I use at home, and it never fails to help me achieve delicious pour-over coffee.”

Written by Heather Riske photo by landon vonderschmidt

Fellow Stagg EKG Kettle $149, fellowproducts.com “This is one of my favorites! This kettle combines comfort and functionality with a sleek, minimal design. The Fellow Stagg EKG can be set at any temperature to brew not only coffee but to also steep any tea.”

Acaia Pearl Coffee Scale $140, acaia.co “If you’re looking for pour-over precision, this is the scale for you. The Acaia Pearl features Bluetooth to help you track and record all of your brews. If you find the perfect brew, share it with your friends and let them in on the fun.” / f e br u a ry 2 019

SWEET IDEAS / HOW-TO / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Roasts with the most When it comes to coffee roasts, there’s little industry standardization; two batches of coffee roasted the same way in two different countries will likely taste a little different. Generally, though, roasts fall into one of four categories: light, medium, medium-dark or dark. Next time you’re buying beans, follow this guide.

ROAST

flavor profile

Light

color

caffeine level

acidity

Fragrant, fruity, floral

○○○○

Medium

Balanced, well-rounded

○○○

Medium-Dark

Slight bittersweet aftertaste

○○

Dark

Pronounced bitterness

○

Sump Nashville Coffee Cup by YellowTree Farm, $25, yellowtreefarm.com

Black + Gold Dash Mug by The Object Enthusiast, $44, theobjectenthusiast.com

PHOTO BY rolf ringwald

PHOTO courtesy the object enthusiast

Numbered Mug by Nathan Falter, $40, springfieldpottery.com PHOTO BY dean groover

Sip your cup of joe in style with a coffee mug made by a local artisan.

White Band Ceramic Coffee Mug by Cynthia Schmidt, $36, bluestemcrafts.com PHOTO BY AARON OTTIS

Tall Oval Cup by Eshelman Pottery, $43.20, eshelmanpottery.com PHOTO courtesy eshelman pottery

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Striped Mug by Studio Carmelita, prices vary, facebook.com/ studiocarmelita PHOTO BY rolf ringwald

Semlor yields 10 buns

Sweeten Up a Coffee Break When it comes to fika, baked goods are just as important as coffee. Semlor (singular: semla) are the perfect pair for a piping-hot cup of joe. Similar to cream puffs, the classic Swedish buns are flavored with cardamom, filled with almond paste and topped with fresh whipped cream. Traditionally enjoyed on Fat Tuesday, the cream-filled buns are now popular in Sweden throughout the winter months. Recipe by Katie Kring, chef-owner, B + B Boulangerie Photo by tessa cooper

Osmotolerant yeast is a special stain of instant dry yeast designed specifically for doughs high in sugar. Look for brands like SAF available for purchase on amazon.com.

Buns 1 Tbsp osmotolerant yeast 1 cup warm water, between 85°F and 90°F 1 tsp kosher salt Look for organic flours 6 Tbsp granulated sugar or brands such as 1 egg Bob’s Red Mill, which 3½ cups unbleached, unbromated bread flour are unbleached and 3 Tbsp plus 1 tsp dry milk powder unbromated. 2 tsp ground cardamom 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, sliced into pats egg wash (1 egg, 1 Tbsp heavy whipping cream and 1 Tbsp water, whisked together) Almond Filling 1 cup almond flour 2 Tbsp almond paste 3 Tbsp plus 2 tsp granulated sugar ¹⁄₃ cup half-and-half Stabilized Whipped Cream 2 tsp cold water ¼ tsp unflavored gelatin 2 Tbsp heavy whipping cream plus ¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp heavy whipping cream, divided 2 Tbsp granulated sugar / preparation – buns / In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add yeast, warm water, salt, sugar and egg. Add flour, milk powder and cardamom and mix for 3 to 4 minutes or until all ingredients are incorporated into a reasonably homogeneous dough. Add butter, a few pats at a time, and mix until butter is completely incorporated, dough is smooth, silky and shiny, and no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a greased mixing bowl and refrigerate overnight. Remove dough from refrigerator onto a clean work surface. Divide dough into 3-ounce pieces and form into balls. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet lined with greased parchment paper, taking care that buns are not touching, and let sit uncovered for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature – around 72°F – to proof until plump and jiggly. Preheat oven to 350°F. Gently brush buns with egg wash and bake for about 15 minutes or until golden brown and a thermometer inserted into the middle reads 185°F. When removing from oven, whack baking sheet firmly on a hard surface; this keeps buns from wrinkling as they cool. Allow buns to cool, then cut buns in half as you would with hamburger buns and set aside. / preparation – almond filling / In the bowl of a food processor, combine almond flour, almond paste and granulated sugar and mix well. Stream in half-and-half to make a thick paste. Set aside until ready to assemble.

To learn t more abou lor, m e s h Swedis 2. 6 . p turn to

“Semlor are practically mandatory in Sweden between Fat Tuesday and Easter. Variations are eaten throughout Scandinavia, but they’re intensely popular in Sweden. Semlor are to Swedish Lent what turkey is to American Thanksgiving. I love them because they’re a light, sweet and satisfying dessert with wonderfully subtle flavors.” – Katie Kring

/ preparation – stabilized whipped cream / In a small saucepot off heat, add cold water and gelatin, allowing to bloom for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream. Over low heat, gently heat mixture just enough to melt gelatin; remove from heat and allow to cool for 2 to 3 minutes. In the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine remaining heavy whipping cream and sugar. While whisking on medium speed, stream in gelatin mixture. Increase speed to high, and whip until firm peaks form; take care not to overmix. Use immediately. / assembly / Spread cut halves of buns with almond filling. Prepare a piping bag with a medium round piping tip (or snip off the bottom corner of a plastic zip-close bag) and add stabilized whipped cream; pipe onto the bottom half of buns, then reassemble. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 5 days.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

PROMOTION

SMall BiteS

.: .

Simple can be sophisticated: Local chefs and restaurateurs share must-try apps and small plates to order this month. From a single bite where a beignet meets a crab Rangoon to a savory Japanese pancake, these dishes prove powerful flavors can come in small packages. edited By Bethany ChriStO

Cured CatCh

the Order

ChOCOlate MilK StOut-glazed PeanutS 4 handS BreWing CO. Fans of 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s Chocolate Milk Stout fall-winter seasonal will love these peanuts in a glaze made with the beer and a hint of spice. Created by chef John Messbarger to highlight stout season, the nuts provide a nice balance of salt, sweet and spice with a hint of chocolate in each bite – excellent to eat while having a beer in the St. Louis taproom.

Cured Catch is The Order’s weekly dish highlighting small bites of cured fish – including a smoked swordfish with beets, toasted caraway seeds, basil oil, bacon aïoli and apple cider gel. Sous chef Caleb Stangroom used juniper during the smoking process to bring out the swordfish’s sweetness, while the crisp apple adds dimension to the texture. 305 e. Walnut St. Springfield, MO 417.851.5299 theordersgf.com photo by amy ray

1220 S. eighth St. St. louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Wild BOar ragu POlenta Katie’S Pizza & PaSta OSteria The wintertime wild boar ragu polenta at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria follows the traditional rule in Italian cuisine of emphasizing simplicity and showcasing quality ingredients, made with braised wild boar shoulder, fontina, lemon gremolata and wood oven-roasted carrots.

Café SeBaStienne The name says it all: Café Sebastienne’s Beignet Meets Crab Rangoon is made with a beignet of cream cheese, jalapeño and dried shrimp, with elderberry and chive toppings. Served as a predinner amuse-bouche, the single bite-sized hors d’oeuvre sets the tone for the bold, creative culinary experience that follows.

tequeñOS Cafe CuSCO

14171 Clayton road town and Country, MO 636.220.3238 katiespizzaandpasta.com

234 e. Commercial St. Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 cafecusco.com

Often a special request in Favazza’s on The Hill’s dining room, John Favazza recently added his fresh spinach flatbread to the party menu to have a light, fresh and housemade option. And it’s obvious why it’s a hit: Crispy grilled flatbread with seasoned spinach and extra-virgin olive oil melt into creamy mascarpone cheese, combined with sweet red onions, slightly salty Parmigiano-Reggiano and finely chopped fresh garlic.

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urBan CheStnut BreWing CO.

Beignet MeetS CraB rangOOn

9568 Manchester road rock hill, MO 314.942.6555

favazza’S On the hill

5201 Southwest ave. | St. louis, MO 314.772.4454 | favazzas.com

BaCOn-Beet SauSage

Tequeños are Cafe Cusco’s version of the popular South American cheese stick. Chef Chris Westmoreland created the appetizer for the Springfield, Missouri, Peruvian restaurant with aged Brazilian cotija cheese wrapped in empanada dough – each flaky, melty bite is best dipped in the avocadolime-cilantro sauce that’s served on the side.

freSh SPinaCh flatBread

13.

4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.561.7740 kemperart.org/cafe

14.

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Grove Brewery & Bierhall is ramping up its in-house sausage program, and the bacon and beet option is a creative must-try. The slight smokiness of the bacon pairs with the earthy note from the beet purée, plus Düsseldorf mustard and pickled cabbage slaw to cut through the richness – all served on a brioche bun with a side of potato salad. 4465 Manchester ave. St. louis, MO 314.22.0143 urbanchestnut.com

OKOnOMiyaKi Cleveland-heath

Often described as a savory pancake, okonomiyaki is a popular Japanese street food. At Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Illinois, the grilled pancake includes wild shrimp, bacon and cabbage that’s drizzled with rich flavors of savory Kewpie mayonnaise and housemade Asian barbecue sauce, then topped with paper-thin bonito flakes, sesame seeds and green onion. 106 n. Main St. | edwardsville, il | 618.307.4830 | clevelandheath.com

Big Flavor PROMOTION

11.

WhiPPed gOat CheeSe

filet MignOn triO

rye

vegan Beef BaO SliderS dd Mau Taste the five elements of Vietnamese cooking in just one bite of DD Mau’s vegan beef bao sliders: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and spicy. The fluffy flour buns are packed with juicy, vegan marinated grilled beef contrasted by crunch from pickled radish, carrots and red cabbage, plus jalapeños and cilantro heat – all drizzled with a sweet and tangy chile sauce.

The pairing of goat cheese with a touch of roasted garlic, topped with local Speckman honey, makes for a salty-sweet spread on crunchy grilled sourdough. Available at both Rye Kansas City-area locations (Country Club Plaza and Leawood, Kansas), it’s the perfect snack before a dinner of elevated Southern favorites. 10551 Mission road leawood, KS 913.642.5800 ryekc.com 4646 JC nichols Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.541.3382 ryekc.com/plaza

15.

SteaK tartare BOundary

MOrtOn’S the SteaKhOuSe

10.

iCe CreaM lOlli the ChOCOlate Pig Available only in February, the ice cream lolli at The Chocolate Pig is a fresh, flavorful and fun treat to share with your sweetheart, best friend or partner in crime. Executive pastry chef Tyler Davis created the mix of housemade nitrogen mixed-berry ice cream – custom-prepared in a heart shape – plus raspberry powder and fresh berries.

Morton’s Filet Mignon Trio comprises three petite filets balanced on warm buttered croutons, each with a decadent topping – béarnaise sauce, blue cheese butter and peppercorn au poivre. The hearty bites give guests a taste of the Downtown St. Louis steakhouse’s flair from the bar area and complement a frosty beer or glass of red wine. 999 n. Second St. St. louis, MO 314.725.4008 mortons.com/stlouis

4220 duncan ave. St. louis, MO 314.272.3230 thechocolatepig.com

11982 dorsett road Maryland heights, MO 314.942.2300 ddmaustl.com

13.

12.

BrOadWay BruSChetta the Well The Broadway Bruschetta is a colorful staple at The Well that brings people together with universally loved ingredients in a sharable format. Patrons ask about and come back specifically for the bruschetta, which tops fresh, locally baked bread with smoked mozzarella, diced tomato, roasted garlic and fresh basil.

ChiCKen gizzardS

vegan CheeSe BOard

gallagher’S

van gOgh’S eeterie

114 W. Mill St. | Waterloo, il 618.939.9933 | gallagherswaterloo.com

7036 Clayton ave. St. louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

7421 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700 waldowell.com

photo by ray prop photography

Many St. Louisans have crossed the river to Waterloo, Illinois, for Gallagher’s chicken gizzards (as well as for its fried chicken and family-style all-you-can-eat on Sundays). The ultratender gizzards are simmered in chicken stock before being coated in its award-winning chicken breading, served with ranch.

Boundary is rolling out a new menu this month full of warm and hearty winter options. On it, chef Nick Blue reimagined the steak tartare starter, which now sets the hand-cut filet mignon over a shallot confit, plus pickled red onion, cured egg yolk and a housemade saltine.

Grab one or two friends for Van Gogh’s Eeterie’s vegan cheese board – the spread features a variety of housemade vegan cheese, beet hummus, fresh seasonal vegetables, fruit, lemon-ginger syrup, berry compote, artichoke butter and the housemade vegan Dutch wheat bread. 334 e. Commercial St. | Springfield, MO 417.344.0085 vangoghseeterie.com

16.

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Features

smØrrebrØd explored Perfecting the art of Danish-style open-faced sandwiches.

scandi street eats

hygge how-to

Discover the famous street foods of Denmark and Sweden at Vildhäst in Kansas City, and get a taste of them at home, too.

Cozy up in the kitchen this winter with five comforting recipes inspired by the Scandinavian tradition of hygge.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

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AAA TRAVELS WITH YOU CALL: (866) 222-7587 CLICK: AAA.com/Travelmore VISIT: Your nearest AAA Travel office 1 Rate is per person, land only, based on double occupancy, for check-in on May 13, 2019 and includes government taxes. 2Age restrictions may apply. 3Resort coupon restrictions apply as follows: Spa treatment coupons are broken down into coupons of $40 and one coupon of $20. Only one coupon can be redeemed per spa treatment. To use coupons for romantic dining, one $40 coupon and one $20 coupon may be combined, resulting in a total discount of $60 off one romantic dining experience. When using coupons toward wine purchases, only coupons worth $10 may be used and cannot be combined, therefore one $10 coupon can be applied toward one bottle of wine. Resort coupons cannot be applied toward the following items: beauty salon services, spa product purchases, telephone charges, dolphin experiences, gift shop purchases, boutique purchases, dive shop, Internet service, marina services, medical services, car rentals and travel agency services. Resort Coupons must be redeemed at the time of reservation/service. They have no cash/commercial value, are nonrefundable and nontransferable. They are not applicable for tips, taxes, private functions and/or special events. Resort coupons are not cumulative and cannot be combined with any other promotion or special offer including, but not limited to spa treatment discounts. They are only valid during the original stay and cannot be deducted upon check out. This entire offer is based on availability and can be modiﬁed or closed out at any time. Not valid for group bookings. 4Activity voucher does not apply to air/car only booking. Valid toward the purchase of a select optional activity. Not valid for hotel direct activity bookings. Minimum 5 night stay at participating AAA Vacations® properties required. Voucher is nonrefundable, nontransferable and has no cash value. Unless otherwise indicated: Rates quoted are accurate at time of publication & are per person, based on double occupancy. Airfare, taxes, fees, surcharges, gratuities, transfers & excursions are additional. Advertised rates do not include any applicable daily resort or facility fees payable directly to the hotel at check-out; such fee amounts will be advised at the time of booking. Rates, terms, conditions, availability, itinerary, taxes, fees, surcharges, deposit, payment, cancellation terms/conditions & policies subject to change without notice at any time. Cruise rates capacity-controlled. Advance reservations through AAA Travel required to obtain Member Beneﬁts & savings which may vary based on departure date. Rates may be subject to increase after full payment for increases in government-imposed taxes or fees & supplier-imposed fees. Blackout dates & other restrictions may apply. Not responsible for errors or omissions. Your local AAA Club acts as an agent for Pleasant Holidays®. © 2018 Auto Club Services, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

perfecting the art of Danish-style open-faced sandwiches at home Recipes courtesy Trine Hahnemann

Written by Liz Miller

Photography by Leth Columbus

/ /f ej abr nu u a ry 2 019

%PG 51

Step

You’ve had canapés, bruschetta and avocado toast, and now it’s time to meet their Scandinavian cousin, smørrebrød. The open-faced sandwiches are native to Denmark and popular throughout Scandinavia. Smørrebrød typically refers to buttered Danish rye bread, which is denser than most American or German varieties, topped with a range of ingredients called pålæg, including cold cuts and other meats, fish, vegetables, cheeses or spreads. The sandwiches are usually easy to assemble; they’ve been an inexpensive and unfussy lunch in Denmark since at least the late 19th century. here, Danish writer and recipe developer Trine Hahnemann walks us through how to master the art of smørrebrød at home with recipes In three easy steps. 52

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Danish-Style Rye Bread Smørrebrød starts with the bread. Hahnemann's recipe for malted rye bread with mixed seeds from her cookbook, Scandinavian Baking, takes about four days to prepare, yet it's incredibly easy, even if this is your first time baking bread at home. This thin dough cannot be kneaded with your hands, which makes it a little less work than some bread doughs. The bread is lovely when freshly baked, but difficult to cut; the day after you bake it, the bread will be easier to slice.

Malted Rye Bread with Mixed Seeds

yields 1 loaf RECIPE COURTESY Trine Hahnemann

days one and two 1½ cups buttermilk 1 ²⁄₃ cups stone-ground rye flour / preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F.

You can find stone-ground rye flour from producers like Hodgson Mill and Bob's Red Mill and malted barley flour from King Arthur Flour and Bob's Red Mill in select grocery stores and online.

In a large glass mixing bowl, combine buttermilk and rye flour. Cover with a clean dish towel and let sit at room temperature (72°F to 77°F) for 2 to 3 days. When small bubbles start appearing, along with a bit of a sour aroma, it has fermented and is ready to use. This is your rye sourdough starter.

day three 3 ¹⁄₈ 14 2 1½ 4¼ 1 ²⁄₃ 2

cups lukewarm water oz rye sourdough starter (recipe above) Tbsp honey tsp kosher salt cups stone-ground rye flour cups all-purpose flour Tbsp malted barley flour

/ preparation / In an extra-large mixing bowl, add lukewarm water and rye sourdough starter. When starter has dissolved, add honey and stir. Add salt and all flours and stir using a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined. Cover with a clean dish towel and let dough rise for 12 to 24 hours at room temperature.

day four 1 0½ ¾ ¹⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ 1

oz whole-grain cracked rye cup sunflower seeds cup poppy seeds, plus more for garnish cup flax seeds cup cold water Lightly oil a 3-quart loaf pan. Pour in dough, cover grapeseed oil, for greasing pan with a clean, damp dish towel and leave to rise at / preparation / Uncover dough and add room temperature for 3 to 6 hours, or until dough cracked rye, all seeds and cold water; stir has almost risen to top of pan. Garnish with using a wooden spoon until smooth. Remove 3 poppy seeds so top of bread is almost covered. tablespoons of dough to an airtight container, seal and refrigerate; this will be your rye Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake bread for 1 hour and sourdough starter the next time you bake the 45 minutes. Remove bread from pan immediately bread (it will need to rest for at least 3 days, and let cool on a wire rack. Cut into slices using a but will last up to 8 weeks). bread slicer or very sharp serrated knife.

This recipe for classic Danish rye is softer than some varieties and includes more seeds. The bread has a dark, almost bluish color from the malted barley flour.

If you’d prefer to give smørrebrød a spin before making rye bread from scratch, stop in one of these local markets that specialize in European groceries , including some fresh baked breads and shelf-stable Scandinavian goods for toppings, as well as other imported eats.

European Delights in Overland Park, Kansas: From deli meats, cheeses and grocery and bakery items from across Europe, European Delights offers a lot more to shop than just Scandinavian specialties. Still, you’ll find smørrebrød essentials here such as marinated herring and imported Danish blue cheese. europeandelightskc.com

Europa Market in St. Louis: The majority of items at Europa Market are imported from Eastern Europe and the Balkans, but Danish Dairyland cheeses are also on offer. europa-market.com

EuroMarket in Gladstone, Missouri: Much of the selection at EuroMarket in Kansas City is focused on Eastern European products and specialties, but a closer look reveals items like a range of European-style pickled vegetables. euromarketkc.com

Teremok European Market in Hughesville, Missouri: Cold-smoked mackerel and salmon, Danish poppy seed bread and Danish cheese are a few of the Scandinavian products you’ll find at Teremok European Market. 660.596.3117

Global Foods Market in Kirkwood, Missouri: Browse pickled herring packed in brännvin (a Swedish liquor), cans of Husmor fiskekaker (fishcakes in gravy) made in Norway and Swedish Leksands rye crispbreads at Global Foods Market. globalfoodsmarket.com

Scandinavia Place in Independence, Missouri: As its name implies, Scandinavia Place offers foods from Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden and Denmark. From Norwegian gjetöst cheese made with goat’s milk and jars of Swedish lingonberry preserves to Leksands Swedish rye crispbreads Turn to p. 19 to learn more about the goodies available at Scandinavia Place.

and Junket’s Danish Dessert raspberry pudding pie filling, this store is truly a one-stop shop for Scandinavian goods. facebook.com/ scandinaviaplacellc / f e br u a ry 2 019

The second step in assembling open-faced smørrebrød sandwiches is buttering your bread: In fact, the word itself refers to butter (smør) and bread (brød). If you’re making true smørrebrød, a liberal layer of rich and creamy butter or other fatty spread (think foie gras or pâté) should be applied to bread before adding your toppings. A rich European butter such as Danish Lurpak, which is made with a higher butterfat content than most American butters, is ideal. And if it seems like we skipped a step here, we didn’t: Most smørrebrød is served on untoasted Danish rye bread.

Toppings and Assembly Step

Step

Buttered Up

In Denmark, one of the most popular proteins for smørrebrød is herring, served fried, boiled or pickled on with a range of other sharp, pungent ingredients such as chives, radishes and onions. Other common toppings include shrimp, beets and salmon gravlax. In Hahnemann's cookbook Open Sandwiches: 70 Smørrebrød Ideas for Morning, Noon and Night, she shares recipes for both classic and nontraditional sandwiches. She begins by detailing one of the simplest recipes for smørrebrød: buttered rye bread topped with creamy mayonnaise, tomato slices for some sweetness and acidity and hard-boiled eggs for extra richness, with just a little salt, freshly ground black pepper and watercress for garnish. Given Hahnemann's expertise, we asked her to share five recipes for making smørrebrød at home. Once you’ve assembled your smørrebrød, whatever the toppings, eat the meal as the Danish do: using a knife and fork to ensure it all stays together on the plate.

“I make smørrebrød like this when I have leftover vegetables like celery root, beets, cauliflower or carrots. Many of my smørrebrød recipes come from figuring out how I can use up dinner leftovers the next day, served on rye bread.” -Trine Hahnemann

Baked Celery Root Smørrebrød serves 4 ½ 1 1 ¹⁄₃ 3½ 1 4 4

celery root, washed and patted dry Tbsp olive oil Tbsp sea salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup hazelnuts, roughly chopped Tbsp salted butter, plus more for buttering bread sprig fresh tarragon, destemmed slices Danish rye bread Tbsp destemmed watercress (for garnish)

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. Place celery root on a baking sheet, cut-side down. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake for 1 hour. Reduce oven temperature to 200°F to keep warm. In a dry frying pan over medium heat, toast hazelnuts lightly, then add butter and tarragon. Cook until butter is brown and remove from heat. Transfer rye bread slices to a clean work surface and spread butter evenly on each slice. Cut cooked celery root into 12 slices and evenly divide over 4 rye bread slices. Using a spoon, spread hazelnut mixture over top. Garnish with watercress, add pepper to taste and serve.

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"This is not a classic Danish open sandwich, but one of my own ways of using fish and potatoes, inspired by brandade." -Trine Hahnemann

Cod and Potato Smørrebrød serves 4 1 3 2 ½ 4 4 4

10½-oz cod fillet sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste medium russet potatoes, boiled and cooled Tbsp olive oil tsp freshly grated nutmeg slices rye bread Tbsp finely chopped radishes Tbsp finely chopped fresh chives

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350ºF. Place cod in a heatproof baking dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and bake for 10 minutes. Let cool and carefully remove any bones. In a mixing bowl, add cod, potatoes, olive oil and nutmeg. Mash mixture with a fork and mix together well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer rye bread slices to a clean work surface. Divide cod and potato mixture over each slice and top with radishes and chives. Sprinkle with pepper to taste; serve.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

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You can find canned or jarred sweet-and-spicy red pickled herring at specialty grocery stores and international markets.

Pickled Herring Smørrebrød Three Ways serves 4

plain herring salted butter 4 4 1 2

slices rye bread plain pickled herring fillets, cut into small pieces shallot, roughly chopped Tbsp finely chopped fresh chives

/ preparation / Butter 4 slices of rye bread. Divide small fillet pieces evenly between 4 slices of bread. Top each with 2 to 3 slices of shallots and sprinkle with chives. Serve.

curried herring 4 1 1 1 ½ 1 to 2 4 4 2

Tbsp créme fraîche tsp curry powder apple, quartered, cored and cubed Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained small red onion, finely diced Tbsp lemon juice sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste plain pickled herring fillets, cut into small pieces salted butter slices rye bread Tbsp finely chopped fresh dill

/ preparation / In a large mixing bowl, add créme fraîche and mix with curry powder. Add apple cubes, capers, onion and lemon juice and mix well; season with salt and pepper to taste. Add small fillet pieces to bowl and marinate mixture in refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Butter 4 slices of rye bread. Divide curried herring mixture evenly over slices and garnish with dill; serve.

"Herring for lunch is amazing, and in the dark Scandinavian winter, has the added benefit of being an important source of vitamin D. It’s a very tedious process to make pickled herring, as they have to be salted for months, so I buy mine." -Trine Hahnemann

spiced herring salted butter 4 slices rye bread 4 sweet-and-spicy red pickled herring, cut into small pieces 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 2 Tbsp destemmed watercress / preparation / Butter 4 slices of rye bread. Divide fillet pieces evenly between slices of bread, alternating with slices of egg until you’ve used all of both. Top with watercress and serve.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

Leek and Egg with Fried Capers Smørrebrød

serves 4

vinaigrette 2 2 ½ 5

tsp Dijon mustard Tbsp white wine vinegar tsp honey sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

/ preparation - vinaigrette / In a small mixing bowl, whisk together all ingredients except oil; while whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil. Taste and add additional salt and pepper if desired.

/ preparation - smørrebrød / In a stockpot with a steamer basket over medium-high heat, fill with smørrebrød kosher salt water and add a pinch of salt; once water is boiling, add leeks to steamer basket and steam for 2 to 3 3 leeks, rinsed and cut into 3 to 4 pieces about 2 inches long 5 slices rye bread, divided minutes. Drain and dry leeks, then halve the 1 to 2 tsp salted butter pieces lengthwise. 2 Tbsp capers, drained and rinsed 2 hard-boiled eggs, roughly chopped Crumble 1 slice of rye bread into small crumbs. In a 1 Tbsp finely chopped chives dry skillet over medium-high heat, add crumbs and 4 sprigs finely chopped fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley freshly ground black pepper, to taste toast, stirring, until crisp, about 1 minute; remove

from heat. In a separate skillet over medium-high heat, add butter and capers and fry capers until they open up like little flowers; remove from heat and reserve in skillet. Place 4 rye bread slices on serving plates and divide steamed leeks over top. Spread eggs over leeks. Add fried capers and toasted rye crumbs over top; sprinkle with chives and chervil or parsley, reserving some for garnish, and season with pepper to taste. Drizzle vinaigrette over 4 servings, garnish with additional chervil or parsley and serve.

"This meat-free smørrebrød is great for breakfast, lunch or as a starter before dinner." -Trine Hahnemann

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Hungry for more? Turn to p. 32 for a recipe for roasted salmon and pickled cabbage smørrebrød made with smoky black cardamom, and visit feastmagazine.com for a recipe for toast skagen, with pickled shrimp, fresh dill, mayonnaise and whitefish roe, as served at Krokstrom Klubb & Market in Kansas City.

“I won’t lie: Preparing the meat here is a lengthy process. Cooking, for me, is relaxing; I like to make things that take days and put lots of thought into the preparation. It’s about reclaiming my time: Who decided that everything must be so fast?" -Trine Hahnemann

Salted Beef With Horseradish Smørrebrød

serves 4

/ preparation - brine and beef / In a large saucepan over medium heat, add all ingredients except beef and bring to a boil; once boiling, 7 oz kosher salt reduce heat to medium-low so brine simmers until salt and sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar have fully dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool completely. Pour 1 Tbsp black peppercorns 3 bay leaves brine into a large bowl and add beef, making sure it’s completely 4¼ cups water covered in liquid; use a heavy object to keep it submerged, if 1 2-lb, 4-oz beef brisket necessary. Refrigerate overnight.

brine and beef

stock 1 white onion 1 carrot 2 bay leaves 10 sprigs fresh thyme 10 black peppercorns 3 quarts water

smørrebrød 4 4 4 4

slices rye bread salted butter Tbsp horseradish cream Tbsp freshly grated horseradish freshly ground black pepper sprigs fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley, finely diced

/ preparation - stock / Drain beef from brine. In a stockpot with a lid over medium heat, add beef and all remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, skimming off any froth from the surface; once boiling, reduce heat to medium-low so stock simmers. Half-cover stockpot with lid and cook at a simmer for 2 hours. Remove from heat and allow beef to cool down in stock. Transfer beef to a cutting board and cut into thin slices; beef will keep in refrigerator for up to 7 days. / preparation - smørrebrød / Butter rye bread slices on a clean work surface. Evenly divide beef between slices and top each with 1 tablespoon horseradish cream and equal portions grated horseradish. Season with pepper to taste and garnish with chervil or parsley; serve.

Recipes excerpted with permission from Scandinavian Baking (Quadrille Publishing, October 2015) and Open Sandwiches (Quadrille Publishing, May 2018) by Trine Hahnemann. Visit hardiegrant.com/uk/quadrille to learn more.

Jars of horseradish cream can be found in specialty grocery stores or easily made at home; simply stir together 1 cup sour cream with ¼ cup grated fresh horseradish, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for about 4 hours before using. / f e br u a ry 2 019

Written by Natalie Gallagher recipes by katee mclean Photography by christopher smith

Explore the famous street foods of Denmark and Sweden at VildhĂ&#x201E; Ă¤st in Kansas City

and get a taste of

them at home too 60

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Scandinavian street food culture is serious business with a blend of pork, beef and Icelandic lamb, and Icelanders order them “with everything” – After the bars close, the historic streets of major cities like Copenhagen, fried onions, raw onions, ketchup, a sweet-and-spicy brown mustard and remoulade. Oslo and Stockholm convert into veritable food hubs, purveying a variety Vendors serve these dishes well before bars close, too, but in Sweden and of regional eats, from the wonderful to the wonderfully weird. Denmark, they’ve firmly become a part of the late-night culture. Case in point: Sweden’s tunnbrödsrulle, a hot dog-mashed “I want to represent the potato-shrimp salad combo that Anthony Bourdain once At Vildhäst, tucked inside Kansas City’s Parlor food hall, referred to as “the most disgusting thing ever.” For the chef-owner Katee McLean endeavors to honor the street foods culture and keep it as true hungry, tipsy masses, this is paradise. that originated in her grandmother’s homeland of Sweden. and authentic as possible “ This is her second venture toward a similar goal; she and Just as the landscape of Scandinavia is varied – from husband Josh Rogers also own Krokstrom Klubb & Market, Things like the tunnbr ödsrulle are the vast greenery of Iceland to Denmark’s endless a Scandinavian-inspired restaurant in Kansas City. flat fields to the midnight sun in Finland, Sweden not normal [ to diners in the U S – and Norway – so is its cuisine. Still, ages of shared “I want to represent the culture and keep it as true and it’s odd and weird and I want to history (and a few Viking raiders) mean that there authentic as possible,” McLean says. “Things like the are many common ingredients. Sausages (usually tunnbrödsrulle are not normal [to diners in the U.S.] – it’s represent it appropriately so I called pølse or korv, depending on where you are) odd and weird, and I want to represent it appropriately, so are popular, and you’ll find some version of them in I do my research. I want someone to come to my stall and do my research I want someone every Scandinavian country. say, ‘This tastes just like home,’ or, ‘This tastes like my trip.’”

[

, , ,’ , .

to come to my stall and say

. .]]

‘This

We have the Danish to thank for the infamous røde To that end, McLean sticks to the most common tastes just like home or ‘This pølser – a long, skinny pork sausage dipped in bright Scandinavian approach to serving sausage: “They must stick red dye. Norway serves pølse med brød (with bread) out of the bun,” she says, “so you can taste the integrity the tastes like my trip ’” or med lompe, wrapped in a thin potato pancake and sausage. Scandinavians really care about their products.” All the served with condiments. In Sweden, they have the korvkiosk korv at Vildhäst is prepared by Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, katee mclean (sausage kiosks), serving various hot-dog creations; at Missouri, to McLean’s recipes and specifications. VildhÄ st Günter's, a landmark korvkiosk in Stockholm, you can get a sausage stuffed inside a French baguette with mustard and sauerkraut. Finland You’ll find a host of mostly Swedish- and Danish-inspired street foods at keeps it simple: The most beloved way to enjoy a grilled sausage is with a drizzle Vildhäst, from tunnbrödsrulle to curried korv. Dig into the menu here, plus a few easy of mustard and ketchup – bun not included. And in Iceland, sausages (pylsa) are made condiment recipes to add Scandinavian flavor to your next meal at home.

Krokstrom Klubb & Market, 3601 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, klubbkrokstrom.com Vildhäst at Parlor, 1707 Locust St., Kansas City, Missouri, parlorkcmo.com

Danish Remoulade yields 2 cups 1½ cups mayonnaise 2 Tbsp chopped pickles or relish ¼ cup finely diced sweet yellow onion 2 Tbsp capers, drained 1 Tbsp ground turmeric 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 cups sweet brown mustard 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh dill pinch white pepper

/ preparation / In the bowl of a food processor, add all ingredients and pulse until desired consistency. If a brighter color is desired, add more turmeric. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to develop.

Copenhagen Street Dog

Remoulade will keep for up to one month in the refrigerator.

m In Denmark, the pølsevogn (sausage wagon) is the original fast-food purveyor, specializing in røde pølser, a sausage traditionally served on a paper plate with a roll and condiments (ketchup, mustard and Danish remoulade) on the side. To the untrained eye, McLean’s Copenhagen street dog looks like a gussied-up hot dog – but traditionalists will recognize this hefty entrée for what it is. McLean’s garlic-pickled red dog is dyed according to her grandfather’s recipe and topped with her own remoulade made with capers and house pickles, mayo, a sweet brown Swedish mustard, fried onions, raw onions and a pickled cucumber-sweet onion sallad. “It’s the addition of those pickled sweet things that make it not as heavy and rich as, say, a bratwurst,” McLean says.

TunnbrÖ öödsrulle m “Tunnbrödsrulle is my favorite

thing,” McLean says of the Swedish staple. “It’s an abomination of food, but it’s so good.” Tunnbrödsrulle is a soft flatbread (the tunnbröd, which McLean describes as “somewhere between a tortilla and naan”) smeared with mashed potatoes, shrimp sallad, pickled cucumber sallad, lettuce and onion – plus a combination of ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard and remoulade – and wrapped around a long røde pølser. It’s then rolled up like a burrito for easy on-the-go eating. “When you're super drunk walking around late at night [in Sweden], they're like, ‘Oh, eat this and you'll be fine the next day,’” McLean says. At Krokstrom, McLean’s tunnbrödsrulle mirrors the traditional preparation, although her presentation – with the roll sliced into half-inch bites and drizzled with curried ketchup and spiced mayo – suggests more of a bizarre sushi roll. At Vildhäst, McLean serves up “the real deal.” “I wanted to do the authentic, messy version [at Vildhäst], because that’s the street-food version, where you hand it over like a small baby," she laughs.

Visit feastmagazine.com for the recipe for iced kaffe lemonade served at Vildhäst.

Swedish Pickled Cucumber and Sweet Onion Sallad yields about 2 cups Dressing ½ cup apple cider vinegar 3 Tbsp granulated sugar ¹⁄₈ tsp finely diced fresh dill Sallad 1 sweet yellow onion, rinsed in cold water and thinly sliced 2 medium-sized English cucumbers, thinly sliced 2 tsp kosher salt

Semlor m Swedish semlor – petite, sweet wheat flour-and-egg buns filled with marzipan and cream – were traditionally enjoyed as part of Fat Tuesday feasts before the Lenten season. Today, semlor are enjoyed year-round in Sweden in various iterations. At street-food stalls, the hot buns are often served with lingonberry jam and powdered sugar instead of cream. McLean sticks with tradition: After her semlor have cooled, she slices off some of the top and inserts a swirl of cardamomflavored whipped cream and marzipan.

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/ preparation – dressing / In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Set aside. / preparation – sallad / In a medium bowl, toss onion and cucumber with salt and let sit at room temperature for 5 minutes. Drain off liquid. Pour dressing over cucumber and onion and cover tightly with plastic wrap; let sit at room temperature for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Try the sallad alongside crusty bread or atop a Copenhagen-style hot dog.

Danish Fries Vildhäst’s Curried Ketchup yields 1½ cups

Curried ketchup is a German specialty, but the condiment has become a standard in Denmark as well, especially at food stalls. 1 ½ 1½ ¹⁄₈ ¹⁄₈ 1 1 5 1

Tbsp olive oil cup finely diced yellow onion Tbsp curry powder tsp ground cloves tsp ground cinnamon cup ketchup Tbsp tomato paste Tbsp orange juice Tbsp apple cider vinegar zest of 1 orange zest of 1 lemon zest of 1 lime

m Danish fries, McLean says, are just like

their American counterparts – usually closer to steak fries in cut, yet the same concept. Much like pølse, the Danes serve fries smothered with ketchup, mayo, remoulade and raw onions, and Vildhäst follows that tradition, subbing in McLean’s zesty curried ketchup. She adds a twist by following her mother’s recipe for pickled fries: “I pickle the raw potato in an apple cider vinegar, mustard seed and dill mix for three days before I fry them,” she says. “It gives them an acidity on the back end.”

/ preparation / In a small saucepan with a lid over medium-high heat, heat oil and add onion; cook just until soft and translucent but not browned. Add curry powder, cloves and cinnamon and cook for 30 seconds more. Add all remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Using an immersion blender or in the bowl of a blender, purée ketchup until smooth. Let cool completely and then refrigerate for 1 day before serving to allow flavors to meld.

Curried Korv m McLean’s curried korv may be somewhat

controversial to Swedish street-food purists. A curried beef and pork sausage is sliced atop a bed of Danish fries (pickled in apple cider vinegar, mustard seed and dill for three days before being fried) and finished with drizzles of mayo and curried ketchup for a fork-andknife-worthy meal. “A lot of the time, true Scandinavians are like, ‘That's more German than Scandinavian,’ because of the curry seasoning,” McLean says. “But it’s a crossover dish: The way I serve it is German-style, and the pieces are Scandinavian. We needed something shareable – when you have a hot dog in a bun, it’s not easy to split with friends.”

We needed something shareable – when you have a hot dog in a bun, it’s not easy to split with friends.” / f e br u a ry 2 019

Chef and recipe developer Anna Davis

Cozy up in the kitchen this winter with five comforting recipes inspired by the Scandinavian tradition of hygge.

How-To

candinavian mealtime is built around family, creating an atmosphere of comfort, warmth and relaxation. This is essentially the concept behind hygge (pronounced hoo-ga), a term for a feeling of coziness, contentment and conviviality. Although hygge originated in Denmark, it’s become part of the culture in much of Scandinavia. From Iceland to Sweden to Denmark, people take great pride in highlighting the fresh flavor of seasonal produce, fish and meat. This approach to cooking is what I fell in love with when I first visited Norway in 2016, traveling throughout most of the country. I returned in 2018 to study Scandinavian cuisine at Maaemo in Oslo, Norway’s only three-star Michelin restaurant. As a private chef living in Springfield, Missouri, it’s become my passion to incorporate Scandinavian cooking and flavors into every meal I serve. At first it seemed impossible, as so many of the products are very difficult to find locally.

story and recipes by

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Yet in time I realized that Scandinavian cooking isn’t just about specific ingredients; it’s about using what’s fresh and in season, regardless of the time zone or geography. It’s about showcasing the simple things in life and bringing comfort and contentment to the dinner table. I may not be able to get cloudberries sourced from above the Arctic Circle daily, or decide on a whim to catch fresh langoustines (lobster) from the coasts of Tromsø, Norway, but I can use similar cooking techniques and the same approach to cooking as the Scandinavians do. Here, I’m sharing five recipes inspired by signature comfort foods from each country in Scandinavia, and made using ingredients that are easily accessible to home cooks in the Midwest. I hope these recipes transport you into a warm and happy Scandinavian home, as they do for me, bringing the joy and comfort of hygge to your own cozy abode this winter, along with the friendly smiles and laughter of good company. After all, that's what hygge is about.

A nna D avis |

photography by

T essa C ooper

norway

N orwegian F ish S oup

with

M ussels , B randy

and

R iesling

This soup regularly appears on Norwegian dinner tables and takes advantage of the abundant fish from local fjords. I have fond memories of catching fish right out of the ocean off the coast of Norway and eating it later that day. Recipe on p. 72. / f e br u a ry 2 019

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finland F innish S tuffed and S eared R ainbow T rout with M eyer L emon B utter and T urnip P urĂŠe Finns take pride in their rugged terrain, loving wild game and foraged foods and cooking fresh catches outside whenever possible. Although this stuffed rainbow trout really should be cooked over a campfire for a true taste of Finland, serving the fish whole with a filling of mushrooms and root vegetables captures the hearty and rustic nature of Finnish cooking. Recipe on p. 72.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

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iceland I celandic S houlder of L amb with C aramelized C abbage and C ognac -R ed C urrant J elly When I visited Iceland, I was shocked by the dramatic changes in terrain over very short distances. I learned that this is due to its extreme climate – little can grow or survive here. Still, the Icelandic people have found ways to use what does grow to make hearty and flavorful dishes – and in many cases, incredibly unique ones. I decided to spare you regional specialties like fermented shark and cured lamb’s head; instead, we’re focusing on comforting roasted lamb and melted cabbage, both very easily attainable ingredients in Iceland. Recipe on p. 73.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

S wedish B rown B utter and H erb P otato D umplings with L ingonberries Although already fairly common in most of Europe, potatoes didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t arrive in Sweden until 1658. They were primarily grown as livestock feed until 1746, when scientist Eva Ekebald began experimenting with them to make flour and alcohol. Her work would eventually help reduce famine in Sweden and free up grains, oats and barley for food instead of alcohol production. Swedes still love their potatoes today and consider them a pantry staple. These dumplings are a Swedish favorite, often served with lingonberries; they can be served as a main course on their own, or with your choice of thick-cut Canadian bacon, ham hocks or roasted Cornish hens. Recipe on p. 73.

sweden

denmark

D anish A quavit - B raised P ork R ibs with P uréed R utabagas and S weet - and - S alted W hipped C ream With this recipe, I’ve combined a few of the Danes' favorites – pork, aquavit and rutabaga – topped with a thick whipped cream. Scandinavians love cream, but the Danes take it to a whole other level: They drink it with breakfast, whip it into salads and serve it alongside meats. Aquavit is the prized liquor of Scandinavia; distilled from grain and potatoes and flavored with herbs and spices, including caraway, it pairs well with savory dishes. Recipe on p. 73.

/ f e br u a ry 2 019

Norwegian Fish Soup with Mussels, Brandy and Riesling Serves 6 Broth 5 cups water 2 carrots, roughly chopped 1 celery root, roughly chopped 1 leek, roughly chopped 6 clams 8 mussels ½ lb shrimp shells (reserved from soup recipe below) 2 Tbsp brandy 1 Tbsp capers ½ tsp kosher salt soup 3 Tbsp salted butter 1 leek, thinly sliced ½ lb medium-small shrimp (20/25 count), peeled Fresh or frozen and deveined sustainably farmed 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste Norwegian salmon 1 cup Riesling can be purchased at 4 oz crème fraîche local grocery stores, 2 Tbsp brandy including select 2 cups heavy cream Lucky’s Market 1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme and Aldi locations. ¹⁄₈ tsp ground nutmeg, plus more to taste ½ lb mussels ½ lb small clams 1 lb whole Norwegian salmon fillet, sliced into large cubes 3 Yukon gold potatoes, boiled 1 Tbsp thinly sliced fresh fennel (for garnish)

/ preparation – broth / In a large stockpot with a lid over medium heat, add water, carrots, celery root and leeks and bring to a light boil. Once boiling, add remaining ingredients. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and let simmer for at least 2 hours. When ready to add to soup, strain broth using a fine-mesh strainer to remove solids; discard and return broth to stockpot. Set aside off heat.

hygge

/ preparation – soup / In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt butter. When butter begins to foam, add leeks and cook until caramelized, about 4 minutes. Increase heat to high and add shrimp and salt. Let cook 2 minutes, flipping shrimp after 1 minute. Add Riesling to deglaze pan and cook 3 minutes more. Reduce heat to low and stir in crème fraîche and brandy. Add heavy cream, thyme, nutmeg and more salt to taste. Return stockpot with strained broth to medium heat and add heavy cream mixture. Bring to a simmer, adding mussels, clams and salmon; stir to incorporate. Reduce heat to low and cook until salmon is cooked through, about 3 minutes. / to serve / In the bottom of 6 serving bowls, smash half a boiled potato. Ladle soup over potatoes and garnish with fennel; serve.

Finnish Stuffed and Seared Rainbow Trout with Meyer Lemon Butter and Turnip Purée Serves 4

I recommend using a European butter, such as Danish Lurpak, which is richer in flavor and minimally processed, in these recipes.

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

Parsley Oil (Yields about 1 cup) 1 cup grapeseed oil 1 bunch fresh parsley, roughly chopped

Meyer lemon-infused olive oil can be purchased at many specialty olive oil shops or high-end grocery stores.

Meyer Lemon Butter ½ cup salted butter zest of 1 Meyer lemon 3 drops Meyer lemon-infused olive oil or lemon extract ½ cup reserved hot grapeseed oil (recipe below)

Turnip Purée 4 turnips, washed, scrubbed and patted dry ½ tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste 2 oz crème fraîche 1 Tbsp heavy cream 2 Tbsp salted butter Rainbow Trout 5 oz shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 sweet onion, thinly sliced 1 fresh fennel bulb, thinly sliced 1 lemon, thinly sliced 4 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley ½ cup parsley oil (recipe below), divided coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 4 8-oz whole rainbow trout, cleaned, deboned and sliced open down the center Poached Eggs If you’d rather not tackle water deboning a whole trout 1 tsp fresh lemon juice at home, ask your local kosher salt fishmonger to do so 4 eggs, divided before purchase. To Serve Meyer lemon butter (recipe below) / preparation – parsley oil / In a skillet over medium-high heat, add grapeseed oil and heat until almost smoking. In a small heatproof bowl, add parsley. Pour ½ cup hot oil over parsley and set aside at room temperature; reserve remaining hot oil. / preparation – meyer lemon butter / In a small mixing bowl, add butter, zest and Meyer lemon olive oil to reserved hot grapeseed oil. Strain zest from butter using a fine-mesh strainer; stir and set aside at room temperature. / preparation – turnip purée / In a stockpot over medium-high heat, fill halfway with water and add turnips and ¼ teaspoon salt; once boiling, cook for 20 minutes or until soft. Remove from heat and strain. In a large mixing bowl, add boiled turnips, crème fraîche, heavy cream and butter and purée using an immersion blender. Season with more salt to taste; keep warm and set aside. / preparation – rainbow trout / In a large mixing bowl, add mushrooms, onion, fennel and most of lemon slices. Squeeze remaining lemon slices over top of mushroom mixture and toss; add parsley and ¼ cup parsley oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. On a clean work surface, lay trout open, skin-sides down; add mushroom mixture on one side of each trout. Fold other sides of fillets over, closing and securing each trout using kitchen twine by tying near the heads, middles and tails. Place in a 2-gallon zipclose freezer bag and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. Untie kitchen twine and remove filling from trout; reserve filling. In a large sauté pan with a lid over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons parsley oil and season generously with salt. Add filling and sauté, adding more salt and pepper to taste, until cooked through. Remove from heat and cover with lid to keep warm. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add remaining parsley oil and season with salt. Add trout, 2 at a time, open and skin-sides down. Season with salt to taste and sear until soft and flaky, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove from heat. / preparation – poached eggs / In a medium saucepot over high heat, add water until almost full and bring to a simmer; reduce heat to medium-high and add lemon juice and salt. Slowly stir water in a circular motion, breaking 2 eggs into water; cook for 3 minutes. Carefully remove eggs using a slotted spoon and transfer to an oiled plate. Tent with aluminum foil. Repeat with remaining eggs. / to serve / Stuff fillets with cooked filling until full. Divide turnip purée between 4 serving plates and top with stuffed trout. Top with poached eggs and Meyer lemon butter; serve.

Icelandic Shoulder of Lamb

Swedish Brown Butter and Herb Potato

Danish Aquavit-Braised Pork Ribs with

with Caramelized Cabbage

Dumplings with Lingonberries

Puréed Rutabagas and Sweet-and-Salted

and Cognac-Red Currant Jelly Serves 6 Lamb 2 lbs lamb shoulder 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme 2 tsp granulated sugar 2 bay leaves ¼ cup Riesling ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

If cabbage simply wilts and doesn’t gain much color or caramelization, don't worry – it will still taste great!

Cognac-Red Currant Jelly 5 Tbsp salted butter ½ cup red currant jelly 2 Tbsp sherry vinegar 2 Tbsp cognac ½ tsp ground cardamom, plus more to taste Caramelized Cabbage 4 Tbsp salted butter 1 head green cabbage, thinly sliced 1 sweet yellow onion, thinly sliced 3 Tbsp agave syrup 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste

Serves 6 to 8 filling 2 Tbsp unsalted butter ½ cup finely chopped sweet yellow onion ¼ cup finely diced Fuji apples 4 oz finely chopped prosciutto ¹⁄₈ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp kosher salt ¹⁄₈ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1½ Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh chives Dumplings 1½ lbs medium russet potatoes, washed and patted dry ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for flouring work surface ½ cup rye flour 1 egg 1½ tsp kosher salt, divided 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh chives 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley 3 Tbsp salted butter

to serve ½ cup lingonberry preserves 8 oz crème fraîche or full-fat sour cream fresh chives, finely chopped (for garnish) Assembly fresh parsley, finely chopped (for garnish) olive oil / preparation – filling / In a large skillet over medium heat, kosher salt, to taste 1 tsp granulated sugar melt butter and brown slightly before adding onion; sauté until lightly caramelized. Add apples, prosciutto, cloves, salt and / preparation – lamb / On a clean work surface, rub lamb with pepper. Stir and cook until apples are softened, about 5 minutes; olive oil and sprinkle with thyme and sugar. Transfer to a 2-gallon add parsley and chives and stir. Remove from heat and set aside. zip-close freezer bag and add bay leaves, Riesling and pepper. Seal bag and gently shake to fully coat lamb with marinade. Refrigerate / preparation – dumplings / Preheat oven to 400°F. Wrap for 6 hours or overnight. potatoes in aluminum foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until / preparation – cognac-red currant jelly / In a large skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add red currant jelly, sherry vinegar and cognac. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Whisk in ground cardamom and lightly tent with aluminum foil to keep warm; set aside. Reserve skillet with pan fond for cooking lamb. / preparation – caramelized cabbage / In a large skillet over medium heat, add butter. Once foaming, add cabbage, onion, agave syrup, garlic and salt, adding more to taste. Cook until cabbage is soft and slightly caramelized. Remove to a 9-by-11-inch baking dish, using a spatula to evenly spread mixture across the bottom. Lightly tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. / assembly / Preheat oven to 300°F. In the same large skillet used to prepare jelly, heat enough oil to cover the bottom of pan and generously season with salt. Remove lamb from zip-close bag and reserve marinade; discard bay leaves. Using paper towels, pat lamb dry; add to skillet with hot oil. Brown lamb on all sides, using tongs to flip halfway through, about 8 minutes total. Remove foil from cabbage and transfer lamb to baking dish, burying meat in cabbage so it’s completely covered. Pour reserved marinade over cabbage and sprinkle sugar over top. Roast in oven for at least 2 hours or until meat falls away from the bone. If the top of the cabbage starts getting too brown, cover baking dish with aluminum foil and continue cooking. / to serve / Divide and center caramelized cabbage between 6 serving plates. Make a well in the top the cabbage. Pull apart large chunks of tender lamb meat and place in wells of cabbage. Top each with a spoonful of warm jelly; serve.

soft. Remove foil and let cool; peel off skin by hand. Using the finest side on a cheese grater, grate potatoes into a large mixing bowl. Add both flours, egg and 1 teaspoon salt to mixing bowl and mix until thoroughly combined. Add chives and parsley to dough; mix to combine. Dough should be wet, but if it’s too sticky to form into balls by hand, add more flour as needed. Dust a clean work surface with flour. Using your thumbs and the palms of your hands, pull apart small dough balls about 1 inch in diameter. Flatten balls into discs, forming about 24 small discs total. Lay discs on floured work surface and add a heaping amount of filling into the center of half. Top with remaining discs and press together, squeezing as much air out as possible, and roll with hands to shape into round, ball-shaped dumplings. In a large stockpot over medium heat, add enough water to fill by half and season with remaining salt; bring to a boil. Working in batches, drop dumplings into boiling water, enough to cover the bottom of pot. After about 5 minutes, dumplings should float to the top; simmer 5 minutes more. Remove dumplings using a slotted spoon or spider strainer to a paper towel-lined plate. In a large skillet over medium heat, add butter and cook until foamy and browned. Add dumplings in batches, as many as can fit at a time, and lightly fry, flipping once to get a nice golden-brown color on each side. Add more butter if needed until all dumplings are browned. / to serve / Place dumplings on a plate alongside lingonberry preserves and crème fraîche or sour cream. Garnish with parsley and chives; serve.

Whipped Cream Serves 6 Golden balsamic Pork Ribs vinegar is sold at 5 Tbsp olive oil ¼ cup aquavit most grocery stores. 3 Tbsp Dijon mustard ¼ cup agave syrup ¼ cup golden balsamic vinegar ½ tsp cloves ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 6 4- to 5-oz boneless pork ribs 3 bay leaves Sweet-and-Salted Whipped Cream 1 cup heavy cream 1 tsp agave syrup ¼ tsp cloves, plus more to taste 1 tsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste Puréed Rutabagas 2 lbs rutabagas, peeled and cut into small cubes 3 Tbsp olive oil, plus more to taste 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste ¼ cup water Assembly 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste 12 portobello mushrooms, thinly sliced 1½ large Fuji apples, cored, quartered and finely diced 2 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup aquavit ¼ cup water / preparation – pork ribs / In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together first 7 ingredients. Add pork to bowl and coat with marinade. Transfer to a 2-gallon zip-close freezer bag and add bay leaves. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. / preparation – sweet-and-salted whipped cream / In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, add first 3 ingredients and then whip on high speed until thick, adding apple cider vinegar and salt right as mixture reaches firmness. Set aside at room temperature. / preparation – puréed rutabagas / Preheat oven to 400ºF. On a half sheet pan, add rutabaga cubes; drizzle with oil and season with salt, adding more to taste. Roast in oven for 20 minutes or until soft inside and golden outside, stirring occasionally and drizzling with more oil if needed. Remove from oven and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Using an immersion blender or in the bowl of a blender, purée rutabaga, adding water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until soft and your desired smoothness. Season with salt to taste. Lightly tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. / assembly / Remove pork ribs from zip-close bag and discard bay leaves. Reserve marinade. Using paper towels, pat ribs dry. In a large skillet with a lid over medium-high heat, add oil and salt and heat until oil begins to smoke. Add ribs and sear on each side, about 6 minutes total, until nicely browned; season with salt. Reduce heat to medium and add mushrooms, apples and garlic. Cook until apples soften and caramelize slightly. Add aquavit to deglaze skillet and reduce heat to low. Add reserved marinade and water. Cover and cook until pork is very tender, about 40 minutes. / to serve / Divide rutabaga purée between 6 serving plates. Top each portion with a pork rib and equal servings of apple-mushroom mixture. Add a dollop of whipped cream to each plate; serve. / f e br u a ry 2 019

Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros to answer:

If you could tell home cooks one thing, what would it be?

DeMarco Howard

co-owner Gobble Stop Smokehouse creve coeur, Missouri

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

“Think outside the box. Use products you’ve never used before and see what you can develop. I used to get in trouble [in culinary school] for messing with spices... The stuff was bland! They just used salt and pepper, and we had this big cabinet with all these spices. I went in there, pulled a couple out and then changed [the recipe]. A classmate said, 'Hey chef, he’s in the pantry again!' The chef came to me and said, 'You can’t use any other spices unless it’s in the recipe. I’m only saying this because you’ve got to know the basics. And once you know the basics, then later you can expand it and make it your own.' And that’s why I’d tell home cooks to make it their own.”

Ashley Foy-Price class coordinator

Jeramie Mitchell executive chef

Karmen Rayburn co-chef-owner

Amy Bloodworth chef-owner

Mike Pratt Owner

Kearney Culinary Academy

Herbie’s

The Blue Duck

Amycakes Bakery

The Quarry

Clayton, Missouri

Maplewood, Missouri

Springfield, Missouri

Columbia, Missouri

Kearney, Missouri

“Don’t be afraid. Don’t be stuck in thinking about what you don’t like. I think that’s the biggest key: Try something new. Don’t assume that what you know is the best. I see that in a lot of people who go out to eat – be adventurous. Be adventurous at home, be adventurous when you go out to eat; it's amazing what's out there.”

“Use salt. People will come [into The Blue Duck], order the mashed potatoes and say they’re amazing, and they’re just mashed potatoes… The difference is we use salt. I think a lot of people underseason food at home, and whether it be savory or sweet, salt heightens flavor. So if they learned how to properly season with salt, a lot of their stuff would be even better than it already is.”

“When baking, a lot of things can be made in advance. You can make things easier on yourself by baking the cake the day before you want to serve it. Make the filling and frosting the day before, and then the day you want to assemble it, everything’s cooled and it’s easier to work with, so it’s going to be a lot less stressful than if you try to do a ton of steps in one day.”

“Keep cooking. Every time you fail you learn something. It's a cliché for a reason.”

“You don’t need all the gadgets and gimmicky things. There’s only a few certain pieces of equipment that you need in your kitchen – one style of knife for almost everything, a microplane, a bench scraper. You can simplify it; that helps to be able to create easier meals. And use your freezer! That’s a big one.”

feastmagazine.com / febr ua ry 2 0 1 9

February 2019 Feast Magazine

Articles inside

Swedish-Style Cardamom Rolls