March 2019 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

march 2019

midwest

Pie Guy Pizza parties past 3am on p. 46.

Craving a midnight snack? We've got you covered.

CITYGARDEN

Our Citygarden cafe is the perfect location for your next event. Seating up to 45 people for dinner and up to 60 people for a cocktail hour, the surrounding views of the city and the garden make for the perfect environment for everything from a rehearsal dinner to a baby shower brunch.

For more information, visit kaldiscoffee.com/events 2

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

/ ma r c h 2 019

Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

march

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 3 contributors

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

katherine herrick

sales

ART

project manager

Art Director

Michele Russo, sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1297

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

special projects Editor

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com

Contributing Photographers

crazy long list of favorite places and dishes. One of the most fun parts

Brandon Alms, Paul Andrews, Zach Bauman, Julia Calleo, Sarah Conroy, Tessa Cooper, Katie Currid, Anneka DeJong, Curt Dennison, Judd Demaline, Grace Earhart, Ana Elliott, Shane Epping, Dean Groover, Travis Howard, Aaron Ottis, Spencer Pernikoff, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Rolf Ringwald, Madison Sanders, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Alistair Tutton

of this assignment was debating with people around town about which

EDITORIAL Senior Editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Columbia, Missouri, Writer “Finding spots in Columbia, Missouri, for late-night eats is a pretty easy task. I think it’s one aspect of the town people really love – especially

production designer

students – but I don’t think midnight snacks are restricted to college life. When I started brainstorming ideas for this story, I immediately had a

restaurants to include; people get very passionate about late-night snacks. The final list features several of my personal favorites (I end up at Hot Box Cookies and The Heidelberg more often than I like to admit), and I’m glad each place is getting the recognition it deserves. " (Late-Night Eats, p. 62)

judd demaline St. Louis, Photographer "When I was asked to photograph Mitch [Frost] and the

Contributing illustrator

crew at Pie Guy Pizza in The Grove neighborhood of

Theresa Seelye

St. Louis, I was eager to get started. My first job was in

Mabel Suen

FEAST TV

oldest friends. We hand-tossed dough, laughed often

fact checker

producer: Catherine Neville

would be doing the same – especially hand-tossing the

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Rose Hansen

production partner: Tybee Studios

Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger

Contributing Writers

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Christy Augustin, Jordan Baranowski, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Natalie Gallagher, Juliana Goodwin, Hilary Hedges, Katherine Herrick, Rogan Howitt, Justin Phelps, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

a small-town pizza shop, and it’s where I met two of my and made memories. I had a feeling the crew at Pie Guy dough. The moment I walked in the door, Mitch smiled at me and welcomed me into his little family. The place smelled of flour, pepperoni and cheese; it felt like coming home. I learned that they have a family night and the whole crew goes out to dinner together. There is joy, compassion and laughter in abundance at Pie Guy; not to mention, giant slices of pizza." (Up All Night, p. 46)

Distribution

Juliana Goodwin Springfield, Missouri, Writer

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

“I was thrilled to write about Romanian food truck Dacia because there is such joy in trying food for the first time from a different culture. The fare was fantastic, but what impressed me was the story behind the owner, Romulus Manole. An accountant by trade, he has no formal culinary training, but as his new American friends tasted his Romanian specialties, they encouraged him to open a restaurant. He’s overcome a lot of obstacles to fulfill his dream. Visiting Dacia was the first time

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

I tasted a chimney cake, a cake traditionally cooked over hot coals. It’s crunchy on the outside, chewy and tender inside. Writing for Feast allows me to discover and share new experiences." (Dine & Drink, p. 13)

paul Andrews Kansas City, Photographer "Recently I had the opportunity to photograph some of the late-night offerings from Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room. I usually try to shoot with natural light when photographing food; however, the dark and moody atmosphere at Corvino doesn’t provide much excess light for photos. Fortunately, the dishes from

on the cover Pie Guy Pizza by Judd Demaline table of contents Go Out: Rockwell Beer Co. in St. Louis by Mabel Suen; Stay In: Za’atar pretzels with caramelized onion dip by Drew Piester; Features: Winstead's in Kansas City by Zach Bauman

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chef Michael Corvino were all stunning and didn’t need any help from me to look very appetizing. From the more traditional burgers and fried chicken to the unusual seaweed donuts with salmon roe and Tater Tots with Imperial Gold caviar, I let these late-night offerings speak for themselves." (Kitchen Open Late, p. 71)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 13 /

/ 12 /

DINE & DRINK Lazia, Rockwell Beer Co., Poi-ō, Joplin Greenhouse & The Coffee Shop, Spice of Life, Dacia, Missouri Twain Taproom

/ 14 / one on one Donell “KraVanz” Brown of Rockstar Burgers / 15 / On TREND CBD / 17 / SHOP HERE Olivino Tasting Bar / 18 / one on one Jessica Parks of Take Root Café / 19 / HOT BLOCKS Stockyards District in Kansas City / 20 / one on one Whitney Reiser, Old Herald Brewery and Distillery / 21 / HOMETOWN HITS Coffee Sknobs, The Original Crusoe's Restaurant, Odessa Creamery

Features

/ 33 /

/ 23 / the dish Upgraded grilled cheese / 25 / one ingredient 3 ways Yellow miso / 27 / the mix Ranch Cooler / 29 / midwest made Potato chips / 30 / mystery shopper Black garlic / 33 / healthy appetite Za’atar pretzels with caramelized onion dip

/ 58 /

up all night

midnight snacks

Party with Pie Guy Pizza in St. Louis until 3:30am.

Hungry past 11pm? These late-night destinations have the cure.

kitchen open late Fun and fabulous late-night eats at Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room in Kansas City.

/ 34 / one on one Christina Shellhart of Half Crocked Chef / 35 / sweet ideas Buttermilk drop donut holes / 37 / quick fix Pecan-encrusted chicken with savory waffles / 38 / culinary library Caitlin Corcoran of Ça Va / 39 / crash course Pizza primer

In Every Issue / 6 / from the PUBLISHER Midnight snacks / 7 / events / 8 / feast tv Farm to Table / 74 / back burner

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Letter

from the

Publisher

e’ve all been there. It’s late, the bars have

closed, you’re a bit tipsy and still having fun with your friends and it seems like there’s nowhere (other than a drive-thru) to find hangover-curing sustenance.

In the Farm to Table episode of Feast TV, I got in the kitchen at Mac’s Local Eats to learn the fine art of making smashed burgers. Here, dry-aged grass-fed beef is the base for what I would say are arguably the best smashed burgers in St. Louis (make sure to order yours with a side of #RipFries).

Traditionally, 24-hour diners have drawn the bleary-eyed for plates of hash browns,

Finally, what screams “late-night” more than a cheesy pizza with a perfectly chewy

sunny-side-up eggs, ham steaks, burgers and, in St. Louis, at least, slingers. If you’re

crust? Senior editor Liz Miller stayed up past her bedtime to report on a pizza place

among the uninitiated, allow me to explain. The slinger is a mess of stick-to-your-ribs

in The Grove neighborhood that’s selling pizza-by-the-slice until 3:30am (p. 46). Pie

goodness, with sausage or hamburger patties topped with eggs, raw onions, hash

Guy Pizza is attached to Gezellig Tap House and Bottle Shop, a beer shop and bar that

browns, chili and cheese. This regional specialty, according to legend, has its roots in a

provides a steady stream of hungry customers eager to pair their pint with a slice of

tiny bright-white diner that’s situated along what’s left of Route 66 not far from Busch

pie. After the bar closes down, Pie Guy opens its walk-up window, welcoming folks into

Stadium in St. Louis. Eat-Rite is an icon that recently was reborn under new ownership;

the wee hours. There’s a unique culture tied to late nights and long hours, and at Pie

while the menu has been revamped, that historic slinger recipe remains unchanged.

Guy, at least, chef-owner Mitch Frost has tapped into what it takes to satisfy those

Eat-Rite joins a host of other late-night beacons in our Midnight Snacks roundup on p.

who are searching for the perfect way to extend their evening out.

53. We leaned on our contributors from across the region to tell us their top post-bar stops. One thing is clear: Late-night food tends to be fatty, crunchy, salty, gooey… not terribly good for you, but terribly good when the craving strikes.

Until next time,

On the other end of the culinary spectrum, Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room in Kansas City is drawing on a trend toward higher-end late-night eats. The beloved fat-salt-crunch factor is there, but with a refined edge. Think Tater Tots with caviar, cultured cream and egg yolk, and house fries that are poached in vinegar before being fried to a perfect crisp and served alongside aïoli that’s enhanced with a shaving of white Cheddar. Managing editor Nancy Stiles takes you along for a look at chef Michael

Catherine Neville

Corvino’s decadent menu on p. 71.

publisher@feastmagazine.com

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Fr om gr eat ta st es + to re gi on al fo od , ng li Dr in k sa mp pl an th e mo nt hs ah ea d w it h fe as t

CALENDAR

Upscale comfort food, close to home.

STL | 3/13 The St. Louis Post-Dispatch Great Taste Event Wed., March 13, 7 to 10pm; $45 to $65; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., Kings Oak, St. Louis; stltoday.com/ourevents

The Great Taste features tastings from 50 hand-picked restaurants on the 2019 edition of St. Louis Post-Dispatch's Ian Froeb’s STL100. Guests enjoy live music, items from local vendors and complimentary tastings.

mo | 3/24 Sip of the Ozarks Sun., March 24, 12 to 4pm; $10; Hilton Branson Convention Center, 200 E. Main St., Branson, Missouri; 573.634.2080; mochf.org/sip-the-ozarks

Enjoy our wide selection of lunch and dinner menu items

Sample Missouri wine, spirits and beer at this special tasting event. Admission includes access to all events in the Branson Convention Center that day, including the Corvette Car Show from 10am to 4pm with 100 Corvettes on display and Bass Pro Shops’ Indoor/Outdoor Days activities.

STL | 3/27 Schnucks Cooks: Pecan-Encrusted Chicken With Savory Waffles Wed., March 27, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnuckscooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to make a buttery bourbon sauce ideal for replacing maple syrup on waffles and pancakes. You’ll also learn how to bananas Foster cupcakes.

STL | 5/19 Taste & Toast

HAPPY HOUR MON.-FRI. 3 TO 6 PM Check our Facebook for an

LIVE MUSIC. exciting offering of Acoustic shows.

Sun., May 19, 2 to 5pm, 5 to 7pm after-party; $30 early bird GA, $40 GA, $85 VIP; Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, sixth floor, 999 N. Second St., Downtown, St. Louis; bit.ly/taste-toast

Guests will taste from award-winning wineries, breweries and distilleries from across the region, sample dishes from top area restaurants, enjoy live music, interact with local vendors and more, all inside the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis! VIP available.

LasceLLes

1324 NIEdrINghaUS aVE., Granite City, illinois • 618.709.7375

lascellesgc.com Lascelles, a place for excellent food and drink, friendly faces and promoting social change within the Granite City community.

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episode: farm to table Check your local listings

to watch feast tv on these networks:

Eating local is no longer a trend. The connection between consumer and producer allows us to make informed decisions and also create a greater sense of community via farm-fresh food. In this episode, host Cat Neville explores various ways you can shop local, starting at your neighborhood farmers’ market, as she heads to Springfield, Missouri, to meet with the folks at Farmers’ Market of the Ozarks. Then, we check in with multi-generation hog farmer Todd Geisert in Augusta, Missouri. Community Supported Agriculture is another way to get your local fix. In St. Louis, Mac’s Local Eats features a diner where you can get grass-fed beef smashed burgers and offers Grocery Bag subscriptions, which Cat will be using as the surprise base for a farm-fresh meal.

feast tv

is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: 8

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

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NEW MARATHON 26.2 BREW THIRST QUENCHING BEER WITH SEA SALT

120

ALC/VOL

CALORIES

CARBS

This crisp, golden beer has been enjoyed by Boston Marathoners since 2012. Pink Himalayan sea salt and a dash of coriander make this brew thirst quenching with a clean ﬁnish. Refreshing and ﬂavorful, 26.2 Brew replenishes life’s special moments, whether you’re celebrating the end of a marathon or a day of work. AVG. ANALYSIS PER 12FL. OZ.: CALORIES 120, CARBOHYDRATES 9g, PROTEIN 2g, FAT 0.0g ©2019 MARATHON BREWING COMPANY LLC, BOSTON MA | PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. | BOSTON MARATHON® AND THE B.A.A. TRADEMARKS AND LOGOS ARE USED WITH PERMISSION.

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Go Out DINE & DRINK

/ ON TREND / SHOP HERE / HOT BLOCKS / HOMETOWN HITS

▪ KANSAS CITY

Lazia Written by Jenny Vergara Photography by katie currid

Lazia, an upscale Italian restaurant, debuted in November inside the new Crossroads Hotel. The attractive spot is named after infamous mafioso Johnny Lazia, who was a crony of Tom Pendergast during Prohibition and once kept offices in the building. Executive chef Remy Ayesh plays upon that inspiration in large, Italian-style sharable entrées, hearty steaks and smaller, lighter dishes. Start with a glass of Italian red wine and the creamy burrata cheese; follow that with decadent bacon and egg carbonara made with Testun, a semi-firm Italian cheese or a perfectly cooked 14-ounce rib eye. Don’t skip dessert; we suggest the tiramisu. 2101 Central St., Kansas City, Missouri, crossroadshotelkc.com/ food-and-drink/lazia-restaurant

The Crossroads Hotel also boasts a swanky all-day restaurant and bar, XR, with a menu of artisan pizzas and small plates from Ayesh. Visit feastmagazine.com to learn more.

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DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

chicken is brined overnight, then grilled over cherry wood

▶ KANSAS CITY

Poi-ō Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by katie currid

Carlos R. Mortera is already beloved in Kansas City for his Mexican-Korean sandwich spot, The Bite. He recently opened a new concept, Poi-ō, with his father, Carlos F. Mortera, on the Westside, focusing on wood-fired chicken. Colorful, fast and reasonably priced, Poi-ō serves whole and half birds with housemade pickles, tortillas and salsa verde. Filipino pork rib adobo and fire-roasted vegetables are also on offer, along with sides like potato salad, red cabbage slaw, elote salad and kimchi fried rice. 1000 W. 25th St., Kansas City, Missouri, facebook.com/poiokc

◀ COLUMBIA, MO.

Twain Missouri Taproom Written by Nancy Stiles photography by shane ePping

Twain Missouri Taproom is dedicated to one of the state’s most famous sons: Mark Twain. General manager Josh Bowles set out to create the kind of place where Twain himself would relax with a glass of whiskey. The cozy spot, located next to The Tiger Hotel in downtown Columbia, Missouri, features lush leather seating and reclaimed barn wood from nearby Sturgeon. The bar offers 10 rotating taps, including beers from Hannibal's Mark Twain Brewing Co., as well as local spirits from S.D. Strong Distilling in Parkville, Columbia’s own Restless Spirits Distilling Co. and more. 23 S. Eighth St., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/twain-missouritaproom-396915311142363 12

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▲ ST. LOUIS

Spice of Life Story and photography by Mabel Suen

A brand-new food vendor recently set up shop inside The Fortune Teller Bar on Cherokee Street. Spice of Life, or SöL, debuted last fall, serving up from-scratch snacks such as smoked brisket sliders, baba ghanoush, and a signature cheesecake topped with Greek yogurt and cherry kirschwasser. Grab a local beer at the bar and try the nachos, piled high with sautéed Brussels sprouts, green onion, jalapeño and housemade cheese sauce. 2635 Cherokee St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/spiceoflifesol

▼ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

Dacia Written by Juliana Goodwin / Photography by Dean Groover

Dacia, a Springfield, Missouri-based food truck, offers unique Romanian fare. The house specialty is mici, a medley of beef, pork, mutton and spices, molded into sausage-shaped skewers, grilled and served with mustard, French bread and savory cabbage salad. Don’t miss the chimney cake, a cylindrical Eastern European dessert offered in traditional sugar or cinnamon-sugar flavors. It pairs perfectly with coffee; Dacia parks in front of Brick & Mortar Coffee, so grab one to go. Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/ romanianfoodtruck

▲ JOPLIN, MO.

Joplin Greenhouse & The Coffee Shop Story and photography by Tessa Cooper

Turn to p. 15 to learn more about CBD.

Surround yourself with greenery and add a little pep to your step at Joplin Greenhouse & The Coffee Shop in Joplin, Missouri. The drink menu offers everything from classic espresso to the signature CBD-infused flat white made with coconut-hemp milk. Pair your drink with a breakfast Puffle (think a cross between a crêpe and waffle) stuffed with bacon, egg and cheese topped with housemade guacamole and Sriracha maple syrup. After you’ve had your caffeine fix, pick up trendy wares like succulents and air plants at the Greenhouse. 2820 E. 32nd St., Joplin, Missouri, joplingreenhouse.com

▶ ST. LOUIS

Rockwell Beer Co. Story and photography by Mabel Suen

At Rockwell Beer Co. in The Grove neighborhood of St. Louis, guests can enjoy craft beers from acclaimed brewer Jonathan Moxey and owner Andy Hille alongside burgers, brats and more prepared by Brasswell, a partnership with Niche Food Group. Instead of featuring flagship brews, Rockwell offers seasonal beers; try Passing Clouds, a Belgian-style witbier made with three types of wheat, citrusy American and spicy German hops, and a blend of coriander, orange peel and grains of paradise. 1320 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, rockwellbeer.com / ma r c h 2 019

with

Donell “KraVanz” Brown /

cook, Rockstar Burgers

ONE on

buttery bun

sauce

fried onions

fried egg

bacon

American cheese

Written by Jordan Baranowski photography by alistair tutton

 kansas city. Rockstar Burgers is one of Kansas City’s best

grilled patty

after-hours spots, slinging burgers 24 hours a day, seven days a week, plus beer until 1am. Cook Donell “KraVanz” Brown stays up late making all-day breakfast, burgers, chili, sandwiches and more in the West Bottoms. True

pickles

to the restaurant's name, many of the employees are working musicians.

more American cheese

What's made Rockstar Burgers such a success? Probably a few reasons: The food is bomb and the cooks are literal rock stars: Besides me, there are three other [musicians], including my cousin, on the cook staff. Our burgers are unique and cooked to order. We serve the full menu, breakfast and all, 24 hours a day, and we try to make our food exactly how the customer wants, even if it’s off-menu. Breakfast is good, but the burgers are what you need. another grilled patty

Tell us about the signature Rockstar burger. What’s not to like? Fresh grilled patties, pickles, bacon and a fried egg. The best part – the signature – that’s the fried, buttery onions. You’ll want them on everything once you try them.

another buttery bun

Do you get strange requests because of the late hours? Totally. A lot of people come in and just point at things on the menu. We’ve made waffle burgers, taco burgers … Just last night, we made a pizza burger. People just ask for stuff and we try to put it together. What’s the advantage of staying open 24 hours? When others close, we stay open. We get interesting clientele, and we’re ready for anything. A lot of musicians come in {after shows], a lot of celebrities – CeeLo Green, Tech N9ne. It’s always a party. 1611 Genessee St., Kansas City, Missouri, rockstarburgers.com

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Signature

Rockstar Bu

rger

DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

CBD won’t get you high – the cannabis compound has less than .3 percent THC – but proponents say it can help alleviate anxiety, inflammation, arthritis and more. As CBD becomes more readily available locally (Epidiolex, a purified form of CBD oil, was approved by the FDA in 2018), it’s making its way into the food-and-beverage industry, popping up in everything from coffee to frozen yogurt. -HEATHER RISKE ▲ ST. LOUIS

▼ Lawrence, KS.

Guests at Wake the Dead can add CBD to any drink on the menu, but the popular Lawrence, Kansas, breakfast spot also offers a separate list of cannabis cocktails. The gin-based Highbiscus Punch balances the earthy, herbal flavor of CBD with hibiscus tea, for instance, while the Mary-J-Rita is a frozen Margarita infused with CBD and topped with a dusting of matcha powder – shaped into a marijuana leaf, naturally. 7 E. Seventh St., Lawrence, Kansas, wtdbreakfastbar.com photo by anneka dejong

Bella’s Frozen Yogurt in Downtown St. Louis now offers CBD-infused frozen yogurt in collaboration with local chain CBD Kratom. The fro-yo is available in rotating flavors like mintchocolate, salted caramel pretzel and vegan five spice with coconut. Look for a CBD-infused cold drink (such as lemonade) to drop this summer. You can also pick up the CBD-infused froyo at CBD Kratom. 1021 Washington Ave., Suite 100, St. Louis, Missouri, bellasfroyo.fun photo by madison sanders

▲ KANSAS CITY In January, Kansas City staple The Roasterie launched the first new product in its line of canned “I worked as an ER nurse for about 10 years, and personally used CBD; I think it’s really beneficial and it works. People really like that we offer it, especially in Lawrence, which has kind of a hippie culture. People [here] are open to the idea of using herbs or plant-based medicine to help with ailments.” – Rachael Ulbrick, co-owner, Wake the Dead

cold-brew coffee, infused with 10 milligrams of natural CBD, then slow-steeped for 19 hours. Produced in partnership with CBD American Shaman, the cold brew is available for $5 a can in select American Shaman stores as well as at all of The Roasterie’s cafés. multiple locations, theroasterie.com photo courtesy the roasterie

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DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ WASHINGTON, MO.

Olivino Tasting Bar Written by Liz Miller / photography by curt dennison

Last April, a little more than a year after opening Olivino Tasting Bar in St. Charles, Missouri, Debbie Baker-Oliver and her son, Daniel Baker, expanded their artisan olive oil and balsamic vinegar business to Washington, Missouri. Olivino’s two locations offer olive oils sourced from both the northern and southern hemispheres – depending on the varying growing seasons – and true balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy. 120 W. Main St., Washington, Missouri, olivinotastingbar.com

balsamic cocktails Baker-Oliver personally knows how important education and tasting is to appreciate high-quality oils and balsamics, so cooking classes, tastings and cocktail demos have always been central to Olivino’s mission. This light and refreshing cocktail delivers a citrusy burst of summer plus light acidity from a lemon-flavored white balsamic vinegar.

Missing Summer Serves 1 1½ oz vodka ¾ oz triple sec ¾ oz Sicilian lemon-white balsamic vinegar club soda lime wedge / preparation / Fill a 12-ounce glass with ice. Add vodka, triple sec and balsamic vinegar and top with club soda. Squeeze lime wedge over top and stir; serve.

You can also grab a glass of one of four wines at Olivino, including Norton and Vignoles, from Baker-Oliver's upcoming Triple 3 Vineyard, Winery and Event Center.

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with

ONE on

Jessica Parks /

co-owner, Take Root Café 3 Must-Try Dishes at Take Root

Written by Nancy Stiles photography by grace earhart

 KIRKSVILLE, MO.

At first,

some locals were skeptical of Take Root Café – would people take advantage of a pay-what-you-can concept? Instead, the Kirksville, Missouri, community became

braised cuban sandwich

The best-selling braised Cuban sandwich

incredibly supportive when

features local pulled pork, caramelized

Jessica Parks and her husband,

onion, chile pepper, mustard, chimichurri

Tracy, opened Take Root Café

and melted Swiss cheese on a toasted housemade hoagie roll.

in 2016. The pay-what-you-can model is simple: Each menu item has a suggested donation amount, although staff emphasize that you can pay less or more. Dishes from executive chef Jared Scott are focused on healthy and locally sourced ingredients, such as the Take Root Salad, with fresh greens, seasonal vegetables,

take root bowl

a crispy soft-boiled egg and a

Take Root Bowls come in three versions;

honey-lemon vinaigrette.

we like the black bean bowl served with brown rice, seasonal vegetables, greens and a side of spicy salsa.

How does pay-what-you-can work at Take Root? If someone pays above the suggested amount, that goes toward our giving tree. We have this beautifully painted mural of a tree on one of our walls, and it has little meal tokens; each token has been prepaid by someone. Somebody who’s unable to donate can use one of those meal tokens, so we make sure everyone can get a meal. If people can’t donate, they can volunteer for an hour – wash dishes, cleaning, restock silverware, wipe down tables. The volunteers are a pretty vital part of what we do. Why did you want to open this concept in Kirksville? We wanted to have healthy food be accessible to everyone. Adair County is one of the poorest counties in Missouri; one in four

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

or one in five [people] are food insecure. A lot of people are on a budget, and the cheapest foods possible are usually highly processed, high-fat, high-sugar. We want it to be a community center where people could have access to good, healthy food but also learn about their food – who are the farmers, who’s growing the food? Tell us about the menu. Everything is, as much as possible, farm-to-table food. Right now, we source from about 12 area farms over the course of a year from around Kirksville and northeast Missouri; even our flour comes from the Midwest. We bake everything from scratch, make all of our dressing and sauces. Our chef is pretty amazing. We have some meat and

potatoes-type options, but we [also] have lots of options for people who are vegetarian, vegan or gluten free. What’s next? The idea has always been to focus more on the education and empowerment of our community, so while it’s important to feed people now, the long-term goal is to really create a local food system where people are connected to their food – growing their own food, harvesting their own food. There’s so much from the seed to the plate that we want to do, and get people involved. That’s my dream. crème brûlée

114 W. Harrison St., Kirksville, Missouri, takerootkirksville.org

For dessert, try the crème brûlée topped with a snickerdoodle cookie and fresh fruit.

DINE & DRINK

ON TREND

SHOP HERE

HOT BLOCKS

HOMETOWN HITS

Christopher Ciesiel

co-owner The Campground

loves

Golden Ox “[My wife] Cristin and I went [to The Golden Ox] often when we were building out The Campground. Myself, Cristin and our daughter, Maeve, would finish a 12-plus hour day covered in plaster, sawdust and paint and cozy up in The Golden Ox hallway, [which] adjoins the restaurant and which I think is, hands down, the sexiest space in the city. We’d order oysters, charred veggies, delicious meats and Martinis, and enjoy some quality time together as a family.”

golden ox

photo by zach bauman

Livestock Exchange Building, for dinner –

stockyards District KANSAS CITY

the golden ox photo by landon vonderschmidt; kc pinoy photo by william hess

The historic stockyards of the West Bottoms are where Kansas City first earned its Cowtown reputation. Today, the Stockyards District is being developed into a dynamic place to live, work and play: Minutes from downtown Kansas City, this area has several new apartment complexes, currently under construction, to complement the shops, restaurants, wineries and breweries that already call the West Bottoms home. -Jenny Vergara

Amigoni Urban Winery

Golden Ox and voltaire

Kerry and Michael Amigoni began working with European grape varietals like Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier almost 20 years ago. Today, Amigoni Urban Winery produces around 4,000 cases of wine from fruit primarily sourced from the Lodi region of California. Visit the gorgeous tasting room inside the historic Daily Drovers Telegram Building to sample a rotating selection of red, white and rosé wines. Amigoni hosts daily wine tastings for $7, with no reservations needed; you can also grab local beers and small plates for snacking.

The legendary Golden Ox reopened last summer thanks to chef Wes Gartner and Jill Myers of Voltaire and Moxie Catering. The old-school steakhouse menu boasts nine cuts of beef, from an 8-ounce flat iron to a dry-aged 34-ounce rib eye. Don't miss general manager and sommelier Richard Garcia's unique and inviting wine list.

1505 Genessee St., Suite 100, amigoni.com

KC Pinoy Fans of Chrissy Nucum’s Filipino food truck can now enjoy her cuisine year-round. KC Pinoy opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in November, where you can find traditional chicken adobo in addition to dishes from Nucum’s family’s hometown in the Pampanga province of the Philippines. The pork tocino is made with sweet pork shoulder marinated for at least 24 hours, pan-fried and then cured for another 24 hours before being thinly sliced, topped with a marinade and served with your choice of steamed, sticky jasmine or garlic fried rice. 1623 Genessee St., kcpinoy.com

1600 Genessee St., Suite #110, goldenoxkc.com

Myers and Gartner also own groovy neighborhood favorite Voltaire. Standout dishes on the ever-changing menu have included grilled Spanish octopus with fingerling potatoes, pomegranate-plum braised lamb with almond couscous, Vietnamese-style meatballs, and taleggio fundido with roasted Brussels sprouts, oyster mushrooms and crusty bread. 1617 Genessee St., voltairekc.com

Stockyards Brewing Co. Stockyards Brewing Co. opened in 2016 in a space that was once the original Golden Ox's cocktail lounge. The craft brewery retained much of its charm with a vintage cowboy feel, albeit outfitted with a custom three-vessel brewing system putting out a rotating line of brews like Smoked Imperial Pilsner, Fox Trotter Scottish ale and Cerveza Royale. 1600 Genessee St., Suite 100, stockyardsbrewing.com / ma r c h 2 019

with

ONE on

Whitney Reiser / co-owner, Old Herald Brewery and Distillery

Written by Heather Riske / photography by rolf ringwald

 COLLINSVILLE, IL.

Originally, Derik and Whitney Reiser just wanted to open a small pizza pub. Then, they

realized they might as well brew their own beer; after all, they’ve been homebrewing for 30-plus years. At home, though, they like to drink bourbon and whiskey – so why not open a distillery, too? Soon enough, their plans for a humble pizza pub snowballed into Old Herald Brewery and Distillery, which opened in the former Collinsville Herald building in Collinsville, Illinois, in January. The multi-faceted concept combines a production brewery, distillery (producing under the Ardent Spirits label) and full restaurant serving upscale pub fare.

Tell us about your beers. Our head brewer Torin O’Brien did a little time at Perennial [Artisan Ales] in St. Louis and in Colorado at 12Degree Brewing. He’s putting out some really tasty beers so far: We’ve got Late Edition, a dry-hopped IPA with citrus, orange and grapefruit notes; Printer’s Ink, a chocolate- and coffee-forward black ale; and the Proofreader Pale Ale. We’re also very excited for our Kölsch-style beer called Miner's Coalsch. We’re donating 10 percent of profits from its sales to the Miner's Institute for the ongoing restoration of the 100-year-old Miner's Theatre in Collinsville. And what about the spirits? We have a rum, vodka and gin. We actually spent a little time in Kentucky at a distilling university in August, where we developed our gin recipe. We tasted all the botanicals and found what we really like. I think people who don’t like gin will really like this [because] it’s not the heavy juniper, pine forest-tasting gin. It’s really lovely; it’s got a little citrus and cinnamon in it. What can diners expect from the restaurant menu? Our executive chef is Krissana Frawley; she was most recently chef de cuisine at Beast Craft BBQ in Belleville, and also worked at Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville. Those are two of our favorites, so we were really, really lucky that [the] stars aligned. We’ve got some really fun, different menu items that you wouldn’t normally find in Collinsville; it’s approachable yet a little bit more upscale. What do you hope Old Herald brings to the area? We want our guests to come in and feel like it’s a place where they can hang out and be comfortable. We want them to have a very tasty beverage and maybe something a little different. And we hope to, of course, give back to the community and make it a more inviting place. We just want to be a good force in the city; we want to make Collinsville proud. 115 E. Clay St., Collinsville, Illinois, oldheraldbrewing.com

dis

hes to t r y

at old herald

chicken and waffles

This take on the classic combo features a Cheddar waffle topped with crispy spent grain-breaded chicken thighs, a dollop of hot sauce-infused butter and a drizzle of maple syrup. 20

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beer donuts

Save room for dessert, as these piping-hot donuts old herald fries are made to order. A twist on In this spin on poutine, crispy fries beignets, they’re filled with are doused in brown gravy and IPA lemon curd, fried and then loaded with braised beef cheeks tossed in powdered sugar. and melty garlic-herb cheese curds.

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▼ KNOB NOSTER, MO.

Coffee Sknobs

These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

written by liz miller

Named with a wink toward its hometown of Knob Noster, Missouri, Coffee Sknobs is a café with a cause. With the help of close friends, Maggie and Craig Coppenbarger opened the coffeehouse, which operates as a nonprofit to support those serving in the military, in November 2017. Beans are primarily sourced from No Coast Coffee, a small-batch roasting company in Springfield, Missouri, and Twelve Gate Coffee Co. in Sweet Springs. Customers can choose from “Sknobby” options (espresso, Americano, iced Americano, macchiato, cortado, cappuccino or a latte) or simple (pour-over, cold brew or house coffee). 103 W. McPherson St., Knob Noster, Missouri, facebook.com/coffeesknobs

▲ ST. LOUIS

The Original Crusoe’s Restaurant written by liz miller

For 40 years, the Limmer family has run The Original Crusoe’s Restaurant, a beloved pub in St. Louis’ South City. Opened by Stephen Limmer in 1979, Crusoe’s is now managed by his daughter, Stevie, who serves the same hearty dishes to loyal customers. Regulars come back for St. Louis classics like barbecued pork steak and chicken Modega, featuring grilled chicken breast topped with mushrooms, Provel cheese and a white wine-lemon-butter sauce. Don’t skip the Famous Chicken, served southern-fried or spicy style, or the Frisco melt, paired with a cold beer.

photo courtesy coffee sknobs

▶ ODESSA, MO.

Odessa Creamery

written by nancy stiles

caramel-popcorn sundae

Odessa Creamery might feel like a historic diner serving malts, shakes and burgers, plus an old-fashioned soda fountain, yet it’s thoroughly modern. Opened in 2016 in Odessa, Missouri, by husband-and-wife team Joe and Jamie Wimberly – who own a number of businesses in town – the restaurant prides itself on using fresh ingredients, including 100 percent grass-fed beef and organic chicken. Try Stellar Coffee, the best-selling ice-cream flavor, featuring coffee ice cream with fudge and mini dark chocolate-coffee cups, or the Beanie, a classic warm brownie topped with ice cream, hot fudge, whipped cream, nuts and a cherry, named after the Wimberlys’ daughter. On the savory side, Jamie says the double cheeseburger is a customer favorite, followed by the chicken strips. Chef Zach Defoe hand-cuts the chicken and makes the batter from scratch before frying, and serves them with hand-cut fries.

3152 Osceola St., St. Louis, Missouri, dineocr.com

209 S. Second St., Odessa, Missouri, odessacreamery.com

photo by madison sanders

photo courtesy odessa creamery

/ ma r c h 2 019

PROMOTION PROMOTION

THAI SHRIMP BOWL - Serves 4 THAI SHRIMP BOWL - Serves 4 Dressing:

Dressing: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon Thai olive sweet oil chili sauce 1 2 tablespoon tablespoonsThai limesweet juice chili sauce 2 tablespoon tablespoonsunseasoned lime juice rice vinegar 1 1 unseasoned rice vinegar ¼ tablespoon cup whole roasted, salted cashews ¼ (2-inch) cup whole roasted, salted cashews 1 piece fresh ginger, chopped 1 piece fresh ginger, chopped ¼ (2-inch) cup cilantro ¼ cup cilantro 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 clove,onion, chopped ¼ garlic cup white chopped ¼ whitegarlic onion,powder chopped ½ cup teaspoon ½ teaspoon garlic kosherpowder salt ½ teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Bowl:

Bowl: 3 cups cooked basmati or brown rice 3 or brown shrimp rice 2 cups cooked cooked, basmati peeled Schnucks 2 small cups cooked, peeled Schnucks 1 cucumber, thinly sliced shrimp 1 carrots, small cucumber, 2 grated thinly sliced 2 bunch carrots,green gratedonions, sliced 1 1 bunch greencut onions, sliced into strips red pepper, into strips 1 pepper, cut 2 red tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro basil 2 tablespoons chopped Lime wedges, for servingbasil Lime wedges, for serving PREPARATION

PREPARATION 1. In a small food processor, combine 1. In a small food processor, combine dressing ingredients. Refrigerate and set dressing ingredients. Refrigerate and set aside until ready to use. aside until ready to use. 2. In a large bowl, mix together 2. In a largeingredients, bowl, mix together remaining reserving top half remaining ingredients, reserving top half of green onions for garnish. Toss with the of green onions garnish. Toss with the dressing to taste.for Top with remaining dressing to taste. Top with remaining green onions. green onions. MANGO STICKY RICE - Serves 5-6 MANGO STICKY RICE - Serves 2 cups freshly prepared sushi rice 5-6 2 freshly sushi rice 1 cups (13.5 oz) can prepared coconut milk 1 cup (13.5sugar oz) can coconut milk 1 cup sugar salt 1/2 teaspoon 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 ripe mangos, peeled, pitted and cut 3 ripe mangos, into thick slices peeled, pitted and cut into thick slices PREPARATION PREPARATION Prepare rice in a rice cooker. Prepare ricein inaamedium rice cooker. Meanwhile, saucepan mix Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan mix together coconut milk, sugar, and salt. together sugar, and heat, salt. Bring to acoconut boil overmilk, medium-high Bring a boil overSet medium-high heat, stirringtoconstantly. aside to cool. stirring constantly. Set aside to cool. Immediately after rice is cooked and still Immediately afterthe ricecoconut is cooked and still warm, put it into mixture warm, it into the and stirput together well.coconut mixture and stir together well. Cover and chill 1-3 hours in the Cover and chill hours in mangoes. the refrigerator. Top1-3 with sliced refrigerator. Top with sliced mangoes. 22

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SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE SPONSORED CONTENT KARA BEHLKE DIRECTOR HEALTH ANDBY WELLNESS, SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR HEALTH AND WELLNESS, SCHNUCKS

I have three incredibly adorable nieces and a new baby nephew. Being an aunt is an I have three incredibly nieces andfrom a new baby nephew. Being an auntinnocence, is an awesome job. I love alladorable the lessons I learn them because of their honesty, awesome and job. unadulterated I love all the lessons them works. because of their honesty, innocence, frankness views Ioflearn howfrom the world frankness and unadulterated views of how the world works. I love creating fun, memorable experiences for them. And some might say I’m a bit I lovethe creating experiences for them. And some might say I’m a bit over top. I fun, oncememorable hosted a kids cooking class with 30 kids under the age of 10. over the top. I once hosted a kids cooking class with 30 kids under the age of 10. I was the only adult in the room, so the class was messy, chaotic, noisy…and well, Idelicious. was the only adulthad in the room, so the messy, chaotic, noisy…and hoping they didn’t tellwell, The kids a great time andclass I waswas secretly delicious. Theabout kids had greatthat timejust andtook I was secretly hoping they didn’t tell their parents theachaos place. their parents about the chaos that just took place. Flash-forward ten years. To this day the kids still remind me every time Flash-forward To this day the still remind every time I see them “to ten eat years. a rainbow of fruits andkids vegetables” andme even if you I see them “to eat a rainbow of fruits and vegetables” and even if you don’t like something “don’t yuck someone’s yum.” Amidst all the don’t like something “don’tand yuck someone’s AmidstThis all the chaos they were listening watching my yum.” every move. was a chaos they were listening and watching my every move. This was stark reminder that adults are the most important influence on a a stark that adults are the most important influence on a child’sreminder life and eating behaviors. child’s life and eating behaviors. Don’t underestimate the importance of role modeling. This Don’t theare importance of role modeling. monthunderestimate at Schnucks we encouraging parents to roleThis month at Schnucks webyare encouraging parents to fruit role model good nutrition adding one more colorful model good to nutrition by adding more colorful fruit your meals. Grab one a copy of our Simply or vegetable to your meals. copy of our Simply or vegetable Schnucks magazine loadedGrab with afun, rainbowSchnucks magazine loaded with fun, rainbowinspired recipes to help take the work out of inspired recipes to help take the work out of mealtime. mealtime. Until then, enjoy this colorful Thai shrimp Until then, this by colorful Thai Hoxie's shrimp bowl recipeenjoy inspired my niece bowl recipe inspired by myme niece Hoxie's inquisitiveness. She asked “if you inquisitiveness. She asked meyou “if you are what you eat, what would are what you eat, what would you be aunt Kara?” Well Hoxie, I’d be be aunt Kara?” Hoxie, be withI’d a little something a tadWell spicy something bit of sweet!a tad spicy with a little bit of sweet!

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SCHNUCKS PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SCHNUCKS

Stay In THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Upgraded Grilled Few foods scream “late-night snack” like a gooey grilled cheese sandwich. In Springfield, Missouri, Druff’s takes the classic to a new level with a dozen “grown-up” variations stuffed with everything from housemade pimento cheese to sweet barbecue pulled pork to crab Rangoon filling. The next time a craving hits, up your grilled cheese game with one of these easy combinations . -heather riske

cheese Try these Grilled Cheese Flavor Combinations at Home • Pepper Jack Cheese + Chicken + Barbecue Sauce • Cream Cheese + Bacon + Fresh Jalapeños • Fresh Goat Cheese + Pork + Strawberries

Recipe by vance hall, co-owner, druff's Photo by brandon alms

fresh Goat Cheese, Pork and Strawberry Grilled Cheese serves 1 Balsamic-Strawberry Reduction (Yields 1 cup) 2 cups finely chopped fresh strawberries 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup balsamic vinegar Grilled Cheese 2 to 3 Tbsp fresh goat cheese 2 slices whole-wheat bread 1 Tbsp balsamic-strawberry reduction (recipe below) 2 Tbsp unsalted butter ¼ cup finely chopped fresh strawberries 1 cup pre-made pulled pork / preparation – balsamic-strawberry reduction /

In a saucepan or sauté pan over medium heat, add all ingredients. Stir and simmer until reduced until syrupy, about 20 minutes. Set aside. / preparation – grilled cheese / Spread goat cheese on one slice of bread; spread balsamic-strawberry reduction on second slice. In a small skillet over medium heat, add butter. Once melted, transfer goat cheese slice, cheese-side up, to skillet and toast until cheese softens. Remove slice from heat and top with strawberries, pulled pork and balsamic-strawberry reduction slice. Flip sandwich and return to hot skillet; toast until golden brown. Serve.

/ ma r c h 2 019

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Serves 4

Miso-Ginger Dressing ¼

cup vegetable oil 2 Tbsp yellow miso 2 Tbsp mirin 2 Tbsp honey 1 Tbsp water 1 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp ground ginger

/ preparation / In a small bowl, whisk together all My favorite way to enjoy this dressing is over a cucumber salad with cubed avocado,

ingredients until fully combined. Add more water for a thinner texture, if desired. Serve over a salad with leafy greens like kale, spinach or arugula, or a cucumber salad.

fresh cilantro and black sesame seeds.

Miso-Braised Short Ribs 4 lbs bone-in short ribs kosher salt ¼ cup yellow miso ¼ cup canola oil 2 Tbsp soy sauce ¼ cup dark brown sugar ¼ cup mirin 2 Tbsp minced garlic 8 cups beef stock 4 cups water

After growing up in Japan, miso has become a key ingredient in my kitchen. I especially crave it during

/ preparation / Sprinkle short ribs with salt on all sides and

colder months, when I’m cooking lots

refrigerate for 30 minutes.

of red meat, soups and hearty salads. I chose to use yellow miso (shinshu)

You can find mirin at most grocery stores in

here, as it’s a happy medium between

the international aisle or

the lighter flavor of white miso

at Asian markets.

(shiro) and bolder notes of red miso (aka). Any miso will work in these recipes, though – just be sure to scale back on the salt when using red miso, and add more salt when using white.

Serves 4

Add ramen noodles and toppings to

Recipes and photography by Julia Calleo,

this simple broth, like soft-boiled

writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

eggs, chopped scallions and bean

In a small bowl, combine next 6 ingredients and whisk until a pastelike consistency forms. Transfer marinade to a 2-gallon zip-close freezer bag and add short ribs; seal bag and carefully turn meat inside of bag to evenly distribute marinade. Refrigerate ribs for at least 4 hours or overnight. Preheat oven to 375ºF. In a Dutch oven or deep cast-iron skillet with a lid over medium-high heat, brown short ribs on all sides, about 45 seconds per side. Remove from heat and add beef stock and water. Cover and roast in the oven for 3 hours; check doneness, and if meat is pulling easily from bone, remove from oven. If not, continue cooking, covered, for 1 hour more. Remove lid, increase oven temperature to 400ºF and cook uncovered for 10 minutes more. Serve.

sprouts. You can also sip the broth as-is or add some baby spinach and tofu for a warming miso soup.

Miso Broth

Serves 2

6 cups water ½ cup yellow miso 1 Tbsp soy sauce 1 Tbsp oyster sauce 1 Tbsp garlic powder 2 tsp ground ginger / preparation / In a medium saucepot over high heat, add all ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with ramen noodles and toppings of your choice. / ma r c h 2 019

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This cocktail is a slight departure from the standard three-ingredient thirst quencher. The addition of pineapple liqueur, a salty, tart, chile-rimmed glass and mezcal elevate the flavor profile. If you prefer a less smoky flavor, use blanco tequila instead of mezcal; even splitting the base between mezcal and blanco tequila will add depth.

Ranch Cooler For a low ABV version, simply omit the spirit altogether.

The crucial part of this drink is the Topo Chico, a Mexican mineral water with extremely tight bubbles.

Serves 1 Tajín Clásico Seasoning 1 lime wedge, plus ½ lime, divided 1½ oz light-bodied mezcal or blanco tequila ¾ oz pineapple liqueur Topo Chico / preparation / On a shallow plate, add Tajín. Using lime wedge, wet the rim of a cocktail glass and press into Tajín to coat. Squeeze half a lime into glass. Add tequila or mezcal and pineapple liqueur and fill with ice. Top with Topo Chico; stir to combine and serve.

Must-Try Tequilas and Mezcal / 1 / tapatío blanco: My favorite mixing tequila, Tapatío Blanco is peppery and fruity with a light finish, perfect for any type of cocktail.

Originating in west Texas, Ranch Water is a summer staple in dive bars surrounded by the red-rocked landscape. Simple to mix and easy to modify, this bubbly cocktail is perfect for a late-night throwdown or a restorative brunch. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photograph by Starboard & Port Creative

/ 2 / fortaleza blanco tequila: Citrus, vanilla and rich agave lead the flavors of this popular tequila. It’s great to mix and just as easy to sip. /3 /

nuestra soledad san luis del rio mezcal:

This mezcal, made from agave espadín, is roasted with mesquite and oak. Nuestra features less smoke and more earthy minerality than some other mezcals, setting this one apart. / ma r c h 2 019

PROMOTION

Nick Blue / ExEcutivE chEf, Boundary

line leader

By Bethany Christo

The pork chop at BOUNDARY (7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, boundary-stl.com) is the perfect example of how Nick Blue used his impressive (and impressively varied) kitchen experience to build a completely new menu after taking over as executive chef in early January. “We did something very similar to it at Blackbird,” he says, referring to his time as sous chef at the James Beard Award-winning restaurant in Chicago. “It was one of my first dishes there, and something about all the flavors stuck with me. It was much smaller and more dainty and fit for a tasting menu. When I came to Boundary, I thought to myself, ‘Why can’t I make something I really like, just like that, but on a larger scale?’” Along with the thick, bone-in pork chop, which is served over parsnips, pancetta and crème fraÎche, Blue has

revamped the entire Boundary menu (excepting the oysters and charcuterie board). He describes it as upscale yet relatable American food – “food that I want to eat and nothing that we have to use tweezers for” – although he’s used finedining techniques like that in the past. Before Boundary, Blue most recently served as sous chef at Sugarfire Smoke House, executive chef at Sardella and Niche, and also spent time at Brasserie by Niche and Taste.

“Being in the barbecue game, I missed two years of messing with root vegetables and seasonal produce,” Blue says. He took advantage of Boundary’s cozy atmosphere and those seasonal root vegetables to craft his menu, and he’s looking forward to playing with currently unused equipment – bread ovens and proofers, smokers, rotisserie – for his next one.

Let's Dish!

pork chop The thick, bone-in grilled pork chop is served over a bed of parsnips, pancetta and crème fraÎche and topped with a generous portion of dill. %PG 28

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little gem The salad features little gem lettuce cut into two wedges served with cherry tomatoes, two halves of a jammy egg, candied walnuts and herbs, all topped with housemade French dressing.

red snapper Crispy red snapper is layered over a bed of farro with creamy onion soubise and garnished with grapefruit segments, thinly sliced radish and celery leaves.

steak tartare Chef Blue updated the steak tartare appetizer with balanced flavors of shallot confit, pickled red onion and a cured yolk, all served with a housemade saltine cracker.

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Bob Brazell

chef-owner, Byrd & Barrel

Red Hot Riplets “Red Hot Riplets have been my favorite photo by jennifer silverberg

snack since I was young. They add crunch and spice to our Mother Clucker sandwich [at Byrd & Barrel] and Provel mac ‘n’ cheese. Treat them like bread crumbs: We pulverize them in a food processor with a 1-to-1 ratio of panko bread crumbs to bread our catfish [during fish-fry season].”

Guy’s Snacks is famous for its barbecue potato chips, boasting to be the first producer in the country when its spicy chips hit shelves in 1938. Today, the Overland Park, Kansas, company also makes chips in flavors like sour cream and onion, sweet mesquite barbecue and green onion. getguyschips.com

2 In operation since 1931, Backer’s potato chips are known as “The Golden Girl with the Golden Curl.” Made in Fulton, Missouri, the chips are offered in natural, red hot, Wavee, sour cream and onion, barbecue, Cheddar-sour cream, Ozark BBQ Rib and German-style (seasoned to taste like German-style potato salad). backerchips.com

3 With locations in Jefferson City, Missouri, and Columbia, Lutz’s BBQ is as well known for its barbecue-flavored potato chips as it is for its quality ‘cue. Stop in for a bag or party box of the from-scratch chips, which are also made with seasonings like Cajun, white Cheddar, jalapeño, and salt and vinegar, plus a sweet potato variety. lutzbbq.com

No snack is quite as satisfying as the humble potato chip. Whether spicy and hot or tangy and mild, chips from these local producers will always hit the spot. Written by liz miller / photo by sarah conroy

Old Vienna has been making potato chips in St. Louis since 1936. Today, it’s most famous for Red Hot Riplets, the crunchy ridged chips that pack a spicy barbecue-sauce punch. Old Vienna also makes a Red Hot Riplets seasoning blend and hot sauce perfect for adding fiery heat to chicken, burgers, fries and more. oldviennallc.com

Crispy, crunchy and perfectly golden, hand-crafted The Billy Goat Chip Co. potato chips are offered in original, sweet potato and spicy Kicker flavors. Since debuting in St. Louis in 2009, the chips have become a staple in both home pantries and restaurant kitchens. Billy Goat also offers original and Kicker seasonings. billygoatstl.com / ma r c h 2 019

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black garlic Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer aperiodictableblog.com / photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What Is It? Black garlic is technically garlic – at least, it begins as the garlic you know. Add a few months in a warm, humid environment and the magic known as the Maillard reaction, and the potent allium is transformed into soft, glutinous black bulbs you can slice and eat like gummy candy. Will you want to? Absolutely: Only whispers of the sweetest garlic notes remain, enmeshed with new umami depth and sweetness that somehow hovers into savory territory.

When we hear “garlic,” a clear aroma and flavor profile comes to mind. When it comes to “black garlic,” though, you need to forget all of that.

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What Do I Do With It? Use it generously and without hesitation – there’s very little these beautiful ebony bulbs don’t play well with. Black garlic is a no-brainer in dumplings, miso soup or stir-frys, especially those featuring beef, mushroom or pork. It shines in tomato-based sauces; add some to your next shakshuka or puttanesca. Do I need to mention how incredible it is on virtually any style of pizza? Probably not.

Black Garlic Sliders with Tangy Umami Ketchup Serves 5 to 6 Tangy Umami Ketchup (Yields about ²⁄₃ cup) ²⁄₃ cup ketchup 3 Tbsp white vinegar 2 tsp granulated sugar 4 cloves black garlic, finely chopped Black Garlic Sliders 1½ lbs ground beef 7 to 9 cloves black garlic, chopped and mashed 2 tsp vegetable oil kosher salt, to taste 10 to 12 slices American cheese 10 to 12 slider buns tangy umami ketchup (recipe below) ½ cup finely diced sweet yellow onion dill pickles (to serve)

Brush burger buns with melted butter and toast them in a separate skillet or grill pan for a little extra indulgence.

/ preparation – tangy umami ketchup / In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, add ketchup, white vinegar, sugar and garlic. Stir to incorporate; using a rubber spatula to mash garlic until incorporated, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. / preparation – black garlic sliders / In a large mixing bowl, add ground

beef and black garlic. Using your hands, combine mixture until evenly incorporated. Form into 10 to 12 small patties. In a skillet over high heat, add vegetable oil, sprinkle salt on half of patties and add to skillet. Smash slightly and cook for 3 minutes; flip and cook 1 minute more. Add 1 slice of cheese to each patty and cook 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate, cover with a paper towel to keep warm, and repeat with remaining patties. / to serve / Spread umami ketchup on top and bottom of split buns.

Add patties on bottom buns, top with onion and pickles and serve.

PAir with: Medium-Bodied Red Wine

PA I R IT!

A medium-bodied red wine with light tannins will balance the rich, complex umami from the black garlic in this recipe. Try Augusta Winery’s Estate-Bottled Alluvium, a dry blend of St. Vincent, Cynthiana and Chambourcin grapes. The bright, fruit-forward notes of blackberry and cherry and soft, smooth finish offer a lively pairing that won’t compete with the other flavors in these sliders. -Hilary Hedges

/ j a nu a ry 2 019

%PG

PrOMOTiOn

[ cool Beans ]

black beans

rule of thumb says the darker the veg, the greater its nutritional value: Spinach brings more health benefits than iceberg lettuce, for example.The same concept is true for beans, so it follows that black beans hold the top spot for health. Just one cup of them can account for more than half of the recommended daily amount of folate and fiber, and a third of total protein. Plus they are full of antioxidants, which work to clean up toxins in the body. Black bean patties make tasty stand-ins for ground beef burgers, and the beans can take the place of steak in tacos and burritos — both great ways to reduce red meat consumption.

in GooD with

Why it’s great to be full of beans With Dr. yikyung Park

associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center When we think about superfoods — a relatively modern word used to describe foods known for their sky-high nutritional benefits — we often think of fruits or vegetables that are trendy or exotic in some way, like açaí berries or kale. Though beans do not enjoy as much time in the spotlight, they absolutely should: From lima beans to soybeans to kidney beans, they bring loads of antioxidants, vitamins, fiber and protein. Better still, they’re cheap and widely available. “Beans are an unsung everyday superfood,” says Dr. Yikyung Park, a researcher for Siteman Cancer Center at Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Washington University School of Medicine. “Beans pull double duty as part of both the protein and vegetable food groups.

This makes them a great, protein-packed option for a plant-based diet.” Perhaps no other way of cooking and eating takes better advantage of the wide variety of beans’ size, shape, color, texture and flavor than vegetarianism: Beans are mashed into black bean burger patties, fried into falafel, tossed into salads — all terrific meat-free options. “Limiting animal-based foods in your diet in general can lower your risk of colon cancer, prostate cancer and possibly breast cancer. Even if you don’t go full vegetarian, a largely plant-based diet can also lower the risk of heart disease and diabetes,” Dr. Park says. Thanks to their high fiber content, adding beans to a meal will help you feel fuller for

longer — and because they’re generally low in fat, they do so without adding a lot of excess calories. Beans can help a healthy microbiome flourish in your gut. Speaking of, beans’ reputation as a “musical fruit” does have scientific merit: Many beans contain a certain kind of carbohydrate that can cause gas. One way to lessen this side effect is buying dry beans and cooking them low and slow. Or you can gradually introduce them to your diet so the gut has time to adjust. Drinking plenty of water also helps ease the transition. As for using dry beans versus canned or frozen, Dr. Park says the latter are fine, “but try to stay away from the sugary baked bean varieties and opt for beans with no added sodium.”

Black Bean Brownie Bites

15 oz. can black beans (drained and rinsed thoroughly) Tbsp cocoa powder cup quick oats tsp salt cup honey cup vegetable oil tsp pure vanilla extract tsp baking powder cup mini chocolate chips cup chopped walnuts (optional)

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

The best-known alias for garbanzo beans is chickpeas, but because they pop up in cuisines from Middle Eastern to South Asian toTrinidadian to italian, they’ve acquired lots of names along the way, including Bengal gram, ceci and Egyptian pea — a reflection of just how central this legume is to cooking traditions all over the world. nutty and packed with loads of fiber and protein, garbanzos are incredibly versatile:Toss them whole into salads, blend them into hummus or roast them to a crisp for an addictively crunchy snack.

Pinto beans

| preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Use

garbanzo beans

Though chili diehards can argue for hours about whether beans belong in the dish at all (northerners tend to say yes while Southerners say nah), there is one indisputable fact about kidney beans: They contain nearly as many antioxidants as blueberries. They are also low in fat, high in fiber and may reduce the risk of heart disease, diabetes and certain cancers. if buying raw kidney beans, remember that that FDA recommends boiling them for 30 minutes before eating to remove their naturally occurring toxins.

These brownies are prepared using less fat and sugar than traditional brownies, and they contain twice the fiber.

cooking spray to lightly grease a mini muffin pan. Combine black beans, cocoa powder, oats, salt, honey, vegetable oil and vanilla extract in a food processor. Add baking powder and mix by hand. Stir in the chocolate chips. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of batter for each brownie bite into the muffin pan. Top with walnuts or chocolate chips as desired. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes.

Along with navy beans, baby lima beans and Great northern beans, cannellinis are part of the white bean family — and yes, they all can be swapped for one another in recipes. The largest and meatiest of all white beans, cannellinis are perfect for main dishes. They hold up well to cooking while adding a nutty flavor and creamy texture to stews, skillets, casseroles and pasta. Cannellini beans are low in calories but high in fiber, antioxidants and protein, effectively making meals more filling without taking a toll on the waistline.

kiDney beans

Yields | 21 Mini BrOWniES |

1 2 ½ ¼ 1/3 ¼ 2 1 ½ ¼

cannellini beans

nutrition information (per brownie): 81 calories, 4g fat, 33mg sodium, 11g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 2g protein.

refried beans is the first pinto-centric dish most people think of, but it’s not known for its health merits. However, a little extra prep work transforms so-so canned beans into a superstar side dish. Soak dry pinto beans overnight, then stew all day in a slow cooker along with garlic, onion and a ham hock for a dish that is heavy where it counts — on the fiber, protein and flavor — and light on excess fat and sodium.

THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

These soft pretzels make a great snack, whether fresh and hot from the oven or pulled apart after a night on the town. The primary seasoning in both the pretzels and dip is za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice blend with dried thyme, oregano and toasted sesame seeds. Here, I’ve paired it with another Middle Eastern ingredient that’s a favorite of mine, labneh: a thick, creamy yogurt with a tangy flavor. Labneh and za’atar can be found at your favorite local international market; if you prefer, a thick Greek yogurt can be used in place of labneh. Written by Amanda Elliott, chef, Peachtree Catering and Rustic Supper in Columbia, Missouri / Photography by Drew Piester

Za’atar Pretzels with Caramelized Onion Dip yields 12 pretzels Caramelized Onion Dip (Yields about 3 cups) 3 Tbsp olive oil 2 Vidalia or Maui sweet onions, roughly chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup sherry 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups labneh or thick Greek yogurt 1 Tbsp za’atar Za’atar Pretzels 2¼ cups whole milk ½ cup brown sugar 1 tsp kosher salt 2 Tbsp active dry yeast 6 cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup olive oil 8 cups water 1 cup baking soda 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup za’atar flaky sea salt, to taste

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the bread hook attachment, add flour and slowly stream in warm milk mixture and olive oil. Let dough come together, then knead for 2 to 3 minutes; dough will be slightly sticky. Cover bowl with a dish towel and let rise until it doubles in size, 30 to 45 minutes. In a large saucepan over medium heat, add water and baking soda and bring to boil until baking soda has dissolved. Let cool. Preheat oven to 450ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

/ preparation – caramelized onion dip / In a large

saucepan over medium-high heat, heat olive oil. Add onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions caramelize to medium brown. Add sherry and garlic and cook for 5 to 10 minutes more, until a deep caramel color. Remove from heat and let cool. In a small bowl, combine onions, labneh or Greek yogurt and za’atar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill until ready to serve.

pair with: Munich Dunkel

/ preparation – za’atar pretzels / In small saucepan over medium heat with a candy thermometer inserted or attached, heat milk until approximately 95ºF. Remove from heat and add brown sugar, salt and yeast; stir to combine. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Set aside.

Divide dough ball into 12 equal-sized balls. On a clean work surface, roll each ball into a 15-inch-long rope. Cross ends over each other twice to form pretzel twist, making a U with the rope by twisting, pulling down, crossing and pressing tips of rope on opposite sides to form a pretzel shape. Line a plate with paper towels. Carefully dip pretzels into baking soda-water mixture for approximately 1 minute each, then transfer to paper towel-lined plate to dry for about 30 seconds. Transfer to prepared baking sheet. Repeat until all pretzels are arranged on baking sheet. Brush pretzels with egg wash, sprinkle with za’atar and aggressively season with salt. Bake for 10 minutes. Serve warm with caramelized onion dip.

PA I R IT!

When you're working with onions and garlic, you want a beer that can stand up to those big flavors. Dorfbier from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. in St. Louis is a crisp lager that will cut through the onion dip’s bold flavors by scrubbing your palate with each sip. The deep amber beer also brings flavors of caramel and toasted bread from the malts to complement the pretzels nicely. urbanchestnut.com -Justin Phelps

/ ma r c h 2 019

with

ONE on

Christina Shellhart /

owner, Half Crocked Chef How did you first develop an interest in honey? It all started when I decided to reduce the refined sugar in my own diet. I became fascinated with bees – they’re absolutely amazing – and started researching honey products on the market. I used my own culinary background to go from there. I’ve recently gotten involved with honey production for the first time, and it’s just fascinating to see.

Written by Lillian Stone photography by brandon alms

Christina Shellhart is bringing a little bit of sweetness to Springfield, Missouri: Her company, Half Crocked Chef, which specializes in locally sourced honey and spice blends. Last year, Half Crocked Chef launched a new product line, Fleur de B, which pairs infused honeys with signature tea blends. Several years ago, the restaurant-industry veteran ditched refined sugar for healthier, more natural options. That’s how she found yaupon-based teas, which are made from a North American evergreen holly bush. Shellhart found that the yaupon teas were easy on her sensitive stomach, and she decided to spread the word by pairing teas with the locally made honey she sells at area farmers’ markets. Pairings include Fleur de B Mo Maple Syrup Honey with a dark roast yaupon, and Cinn-Full cinnamon-honey blend accompanied by a yaupon chai tea.  SPRINGFIELD, MO.

must-try products from fleur de b 34

Lemongrass and jasmine add an herbaceous element to Fleur de B’s Floral Fusion Honey.

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

What inspires Fleur de B’s honey and tea pairings? I’ll look at food magazines like Bon Appétit and Saveur, then I’ll look at things from an international perspective. I’ll walk through the farmers’ market to see where we’re at with produce; for example, if local vendors are planting blackberries, I’ll look at a blackberry-inspired pairing. As far as the honey goes, I’m always looking for different beekeepers. Different hives have different floral sources, which informs the pairings as well. What’s next for Fleur de B? I found some friends willing to install hives with the help of Jeff Maddox, a local beekeeper with 417 Bees. We’re looking at installing hives at a few different places, including Lavender Falls Farm; if we place hives at the lavender farm, that honey will have its own unique flavor profile. We’re also working on some dessert items that we’re planning for a summer debut. We’re starting with sponge candy made with lemon and lavender honey, and an ice cream that will pair with the lemon and lavender honey. halfcrockedchef.com

Shellhart’s newest product is Echo’s of Oz, a tea blend combining 10 different flavors including lavender and green rooibos. It’s a flavor-packed tea that can be paired with natural sweeteners like raw honey or coconut milk powder.

Work honey into your savory dishes with Show-Me State, a honey-based marinade made with Missouri bourbon and barbecue seasoning.

THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Buttermilk Drop Donut Holes Sugary and crispy with just the right amount of richness, donuts sweeten up breakfast. Whether you’re looking for a hangover cure or a midnight snack, this recipe is incredibly simple to throw together – the only challenge is frying them at home. A heavy-bottomed pot, preferably a cast-iron Dutch oven or large skillet, performs best. Written by Christy Augustin , chef-owner, Pint Size Bakery in St. Louis / Photo by jennifer silverberg

A candy thermometer is key to maintaining the right oil temperature: Too hot and the donut centers will be raw, too cool and the outsides will be greasy.

/ preparation – donuts / Line a cookie sheet with 3 layers of paper towels; set aside near stove. In a Dutch oven or large Spiced Sugar cast-iron skillet over low heat, add oil; insert or attach a candy 2 cups granulated sugar thermometer. 1 tsp ground cinnamon 3½ to 4 dozen

½ tsp ground allspice

Donuts 2 qts canola or vegetable oil 2½ cups unbleached, all-purpose flour ²⁄₃ cup tightly packed brown sugar 1 tsp kosher salt 1½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 2 eggs ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp buttermilk ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted spiced sugar (recipe below) / preparation – spiced sugar / In a medium mixing

bowl, combine sugar and spices. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, salt, baking powder and soda and nutmeg. Add eggs, buttermilk and melted butter; stir to combine, but do not overmix. Increase Dutch oven or skillet heat to medium-high until oil reaches 350ºF to 360ºF on thermometer. Working in batches, drop dough by the tablespoon into oil, taking care not to overfill pan and working slowly to avoid oil splashing. When donuts float, turn them over using kitchen tongs to cook evenly on all sides. Remove donuts from oil when light golden brown and bubbling subsides a bit. Using tongs, carefully remove donuts to paper towel-lined cookie sheet. Increase or reduce stove temperature as needed between batches to maintain oil temperature. While warm, toss donuts, one at a time, in spiced sugar; serve.

PAir with:

PA I R IT!

Peach Brandy Simple and delicious, these donuts beg for a fruity pairing. Try them with a Cobbler cocktail, featuring fresh fruit and a rich base spirit such as Habondia Peach Brandy from the St. Louis-based team behind The Big O Ginger Liqueur. For this pairing, combine 3 to 4 blueberries, ½ ounce lemon juice, ½ ounce orange juice, ¾ ounce turbinado syrup and 1½ ounces Habondia; shake with ice, strain and serve. -Jenn Tosatto

/ ma r c h 2 019

PINK AT THE RINK TUESDAY, MAR. 12 vs Get an exclusive Blues Pink Hoodie with your theme night ticket purchase! STLOUISBLUES.COM/THEME USE CODE PINK19 5 of every ticket sold through this theme night will go to the fight against breast cancer with proceeds benefiting the Siteman Cancer Center. $

2019 UPCOMING EVENTS Grapes to Glass - March 9 Wurstfest - March 23 & 24 Spring Fling - May 4 Kentucky Derby Day - May 4 FREE Live Music - Saturday’s May - October

FREE HISTORIC CELLAR TOURS

Dine at our Vintage Restaurant Purchase a t local reta i l ers or onl i ne

Hermann, MO • 800.909.9463 • stonehillwinery.com 36

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THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Pecan-Encrusted Chicken with Savory Waffles Nothing cures a hangover like carbs. Covered in chopped pecans and panko bread crumbs, this hearty chicken is a filling meal on its own – but why would you ever forego a side of waffles? The best part is that both recipes are extremely simple and quick to prepare, so even if you’re feeling a little, ahem, under the weather this morning, you’ll be carbo-loading and back to bed in no time. Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., March 27, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704.

serves 5 Waffles 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp kosher salt 3 Tbsp granulated sugar 2 Tbsp minced fresh chives ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp chipotle pepper 3 eggs 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted 2 cups room-temperature buttermilk

/ preparation – waffles / Preheat waffle iron. In a medium bowl, whisk first 8 ingredients. In a separate bowl, beat eggs and butter; stir in buttermilk. Stir wet ingredients into dry. Ladle batter into waffle iron; cook according to waffle-iron directions. / preparation – chicken/ Preheat oven to 425°F. On a rimmed baking sheet, add butter and oil and transfer to oven.

In a mixing bowl, combine pecans and bread crumbs. In a separate bowl, submerge chicken in buttermilk. In a third bowl, combine flour, salt and pepper. Dip chicken in flour, then buttermilk again; roll chicken in pecan mixture. Carefully remove baking sheet from Chicken oven and add chicken; bake for 6 minutes. Flip chicken 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil and cook 8 to 12 minutes more; serve with waffles. 1½ 1½ 2 12 ½ 2 1

cup finely chopped pecans cup panko bread crumbs cups buttermilk chicken breast tenderloins cup all-purpose flour tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper

Visit feastmagazine.com for a bourbon sauce recipe perfect to pair with savory waffles and pecan-encrusted chicken.

In this class, you‘ll learn how to make a buttery bourbon sauce ideal for replacing maple syrup on waffles and pancakes. You‘ll also learn how to make bananas Foster cupcakes.

MAKE THE MEAL • Southern Pimento Spread • Spinach Salad with Bacon and Blue Cheese • Pecan-Encrusted Chicken with Savory Waffles and Bourbon Sauce • Bananas Foster Cupcakes / ma r c h 2 019

Culi

r na y

with

Caitlin Corcoran /

managing partner, Ça Va

Caitlin Corcoran wears many hats. She’d already made a name for herself in Kansas City’s restaurant industry before becoming managing partner of beloved sparkling-wine bar Ça Va. She’s also a certified sommelier, award-winning bartender and former competitive barista. In addition to all that, she knows a few things about food, too. Here, Corcoran shares three of the books that shaped her work. -nancy stiles

Dining In: Highly Cookable Recipes by Alison Roman (2017) “Just as the title suggests, this cookbook demystifies cooking for the average person. The recipes keep it simple and fun while packing in flavor – plus, the photography is very of-the-moment.”

Ma Gastronomie by Fernand Point (1969) “Fernand Point is the father of modern French cuisine. Besides having 200 of his recipes, [the book] goes through his daily routine at his restaurant, La Pyramide, and his thoughts on cuisine and life, including my favorite quote of his: ‘Butter! Give me butter! Always butter!’ His recipes assume the person executing the dish has an understanding of classic French technique; they don’t list amounts of ingredients or cooking temperatures, but rather a few sentences on the order of operations and ingredients. While some might find this intimidating, I find it refreshing, because as long as you know the classic technique, you can experiment and reinterpret any recipe.”

Champagne: The Essential Guide to the Wines, Producers, and Terroirs of the Iconic Region by Peter Liem (2017) “Peter Liem is the utmost authority on Champagne. When I first began at Ça Va, I subscribed to his website, champagneguide.net, which was the precursor to this book. He profiles different French Champagne houses, including family history, land composition, style preferences and more. Additionally, he gives detailed descriptions of the different Champagne expressions and vintages he's tasted. Liem has such an in-depth knowledge of the region and its players because he's lived there and developed deep relationships, which is apparent throughout the book.”

Better food Better living

OPENING MARCH 13

AT COUNTRY CLUB PLAZA

At True Food Kitchen, healthy isn’t just an idea, it’s a science... and we take it seriously. Every delicious dish and drink is crafted to be better for your taste buds and your body.

TRUEFOODKITCHEN.COM/KANSASCITY

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THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

PRIMER Written by heather riske / photo by aaron ottis

Sure, pizza was born in Naples, but it’s become as American as apple pie, or perhaps even more so – a recent study found that almost half of Americans eat pizza weekly. Over the years, the beloved dish has evolved into myriad styles ranging from classic Neapolitan Margherita pies to regional takes like the ubiquitous New York slice and the knife-and-fork affair known as Chicago deep dish. Whether you’re determined to make restaurant-quality pizza at home or just looking to pop a frozen pie into the oven to enjoy on your sofa (we won’t judge), this is your guide to the perfect pie.

Pizza didn’t become popular in the U.S. until the 1940s. Variations of pizza can be traced back to the Roman Empire, but what we have

come to know as the dish today was invented in Naples in 1889. Legend has it that the Margherita was first crafted by pizzaiolo (pizza maker) Raffaele Esposito in honor of the visiting Queen Margherita of Savoy. To celebrate the colors of the Italian flag, his pizza featured mozzarella (white), basil (green) and tomato (red). The first pizzeria in the U.S. is thought to have opened in New York City in the first decade of the 20th century. The dish continued to grow in popularity after World War II, when veterans returning from Italy brought an appetite for pizza home to the states. Decades later, the dish is ubiquitous.

Turn the page for your primer to the perfect pie at home. ▶ / ma r c h 2 019

THE DISH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Neapolitan and Neo-Neapolitan These round, sparsely topped pies are cooked quickly – usually for about 90 seconds – in a wood-fired oven, resulting in a blistered, chewy crust and a soft, elastic center. To truly call themselves Neapolitan, these pizzas must be certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. □ Where to Find It: ○ Il Lazzarone in Kansas City and St. Joseph, Missouri ○ Pizzeoli in St. Louis ○ Manzo’s Wood-Fired Pizza in Columbia, Missouri

quality homemade pizza requires the right tools Ready to become a pizza pro? First, make sure you’ve got the right equipment. We tapped Taylor Hamilton, pizzaiolo at Union Loafers in St. Louis, to share his must-have tools.

New York New York City’s signature pies are cooked in a

2 Styles vary widely by region From cracker-thin pizzas to thick, cheesy pan pies, pizza may look – and taste – totally different depending on your zip code. Grab a slice and study up on these regional styles. illustrations by theresa seelye

deck-oven, resulting in a thin, chewy crust, and coated with grated mozzarella and slightly sweet sauce. For a true taste, fold your slice in half. □ Where to Find It: ○ Pizza Head in St. Louis ○ Original Pizza in Overland Park, Kansas ○ The Big Slice in Springfield, Missouri

Stone “A quality stone is a

Detroit

delicious. Look for a thicker,

A descendent of Sicilian-style pizza, the Motor City

rectangular stone that will

favorite is cooked in a deep, rectangular pan, resulting in

fit your oven, and avoid any

caramelized edges and a thick, crispy crust. Perhaps most

of the thin, circular ones they

unique is the layering of the toppings: cheese first, then

sell in grocery stores. They’re

red sauce and, finally, more cheese.

cheap and bound to crack.”

pizza, which can be equally

Scraper “In pizzerias, we usually use putty scrapers like you’d find at the hardware store in lieu of dough scrapers. They’re finer, flexible, more durable and can double as a bench scraper when cutting and shaping dough.”

St. Louis Love it or hate it, St. Louis’ eponymous style is rarely found outside the region. The pizza is marked by an unleavened, cracker-thin crust; sweet, oregano-seasoned sauce; and layering of gooey, melty Provel (a processed blend of Cheddar, Swiss and Provolone cheeses).

Chicago

Digital Scale “A digital scale is essential for making good dough. Always use recipes by weight rather than volume, and weigh your dough when dividing into balls for consistency.”

Peel “A peel is a definite plus, but if you don’t have

Thick, cheesy deep-dish pan pies are a Windy City classic.

one, simply make your pizza

Often likened to lasagna, these pizzas usually require a

on parchment paper and use

knife and fork; toppings, which are sandwiched between

a sheet tray to slide it into

layers of cheese and sauce, function more like fillings.

the oven. Results are the

□ Where to Find It: ○ Black Thorn Pub & Pizza in St. Louis ○ WiseGuys Pizza in Columbia, Missouri ○ Rosati’s Pizza in Overland Park feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

unless you’re making pan

□ Where to Find It: ○ Providence Pizza Co. at Parlor Food Hall in Kansas City ○ HopCat in University City, Missouri, and Kansas City ○ Ziggy’s Pizza in Wichita, Kansas

□ Where to Find It: ○ Imo’s Pizza in Missouri, southern Illinois and Kansas ○ Leo’s Pizza in Kansas City ○ Monte Bello Pizzeria in St. Louis

must for good pizza at home –

Pizza Cutter

same and it eliminates the factor of your pizza sticking

“Don’t forget the pizza

to the peel and becoming

cutter – scissors are no fun.”

misshapen.”

Yes

, you can grab a quality local pie in the freezer section.

Want pizza in a pinch? Next time you’re browsing the frozen-foods aisle, keep an eye out for these locally made frozen pizzas.

Dogtown Pizza From a cracker-thin crust – sourced from Vitale’s Bakery on the Hill – to its own proprietary three-cheese blend (including, of course, Provel),Dogtown is a true taste of St. Louis-style pizza. dogtownpizza.com

Shakespeare’s Pizza Columbia, Missouri’s beloved pizza parlor sells frozen pies in flavors like pepperoni, four cheese, Italian sausage, Hawaiian and spinach-artichoke. shakespeares.com

The Dish Famous Pizza Based in Kansas City, The Dish offers frozen pizzas in both deep-dish and thin-crust styles, ranging from spinach-stuffed to spicy chicken with barbecue sauce. dishpizza.com

Imo’s Pizza In addition to stocking grocery stores across Missouri, the “square beyond compare” ships its St. Louis-style pizzas – made with 100 percent Provel – nationally. imospizza.com

yields 2 12-inch pies or 3 8-inch pies

Basic Pizza Dough Skip the delivery; homemade pizza is easier than you think. Get started with this easy, no-knead dough recipe from John Gilbreth, chef-owner of the popular Pizza Tree in Columbia, Missouri. Recipe by John Gilbreth, chef-owner, Pizza Tree “I recommend using bread flour or all-purpose flour – don’t mess with 00 flour unless you’re planning on using a wood-fired oven. If that’s the case, you should also omit the sugar in this recipe. Mixing the dough will take different amounts of time depending on your flour. It’s not an exact science – as long as you get all the ingredients in there, it’s gonna turn out great. Above all, don’t get too fussy about precision: Like all things pizza, the emphasis should be on having some fun with your friends, not stressing about the minutiae of the recipe.” –John Gilbreth

1 1½ ½ 3 2½ 1

cup room-temperature water tsp granulated sugar tsp instant yeast tsp olive oil, divided cups bread or all-purpose flour tsp kosher salt pizza sauce (to serve) toppings of your choice (to serve)

/ preparation / In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add water, sugar and yeast. Mix on very low speed for 3 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons olive oil and mix for 1 minute. Add flour, ½ cup at a time, sprinkling it in (this should take about 2 to 3 minutes). Mix until dough forms a shaggy mass loosely centered on the hook, about 2 or 3 minutes more. Sprinkle in salt; mix dough for about 1 minute more. If the dough feels sticky, add a little flour; if it feels hard, add a little water and mix until incorporated. Increase mixer speed to medium and mix until dough looks smooth on the outside with some toughness to it, about 6 minutes. Let dough rest in the bowl for 10 minutes. Using a bench scraper or chef’s knife, cut dough into 2 equal portions and form each into a ball. Oil a plate with remaining olive oil and transfer dough balls to plate. Lightly oil the tops of balls and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate dough for at least 8 hours or up to 48 hours. / assembly / Remove dough balls from refrigerator to warm up for about 1 hour. Place a pizza stone in the oven, and set oven to highest heat (likely 500ºF or 550ºF). Using your hands or a rolling pin, roll out dough to about 11 or 12 inches in diameter. Lightly top with sauce and toppings. Using a peel, transfer to pizza stone and bake until the bottom of the pie is a deep brown, about 7 minutes. Remove from oven and serve. Pro tip: Pull pizza earlier if the top is browning too quickly. / ma r c h 2 019

w h o s e i L d e a a d L 4 PROMOTION PROMOTION

edited by Bethany Christo h onoring le Ade rs in th e culi n Ary ry commu n i t y in ce le BrAtion of inte rnAti o nA l women ’ s d A Ay.

e’re shining a spotlight on 11 women who helped cement Missouri’ss place on the culinary map. These ladies couple their passion with determination and continue to quietly build their empires throughout the region. Introducing the Ladies Who Lead...

Lorenza Pasetti

“At the end of the day, i want to be proud of the products we are making.”

CEO, Volpi Foods Volpi Foods has been a staple in the St. Louis culinary scene for 117 years. How did a Missouribased bookworm rise to a national leader in the male-dominated meat industry? “At the end of the day, I want to be proud of the products we are making,” Pasetti says. Her drive for unwavering quality pushed Volpi onto the national stage, with products earning top honors from the Specialty Food Association and America’s Test Kitchen. Pasetti continues to push for more women omen at the table and initiated a groundbreak groundbreaking partnership with the United States National Women’s Soccer Team. eam. “These ladies are champions,” Pasetti says. "They’ve earned every ery star on that crest and are unpar unparalleled in their ability to inspire young girls.”

– Lorenza Pasetti

more ABout volpi

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What started as a small shop in The Hill neighborhood in St. Louis has expanded to four curing plants throughout the city and Union, Missouri. Volpi products are available across the state at Schnucks, Dierbergs and independent markets. The specialty storefront is still operational today and recently launched a café menu. For International Women’s Day, the store will feature a collaboration menu item with a different female food leader March through August.

P HO T O B y J

PROMOTION UDD

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Amy mArcoot co-owner, Marcoot Jersey Creamery

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Sisters Amy and Beth Marcoot launched Marcoot Jersey Creamery in Greenville, Illinois, in 2010 to save their family’s dairy farm. The sustainable, award-winning cheese – including fresh, cave-aged and farmstead offerings – is now sold across Missouri and Illinois at more than 180 restaurants, grocery stores and markets. marcootjerseycreamery.com

Jill rostine chef-owner, Good Food Co. Largely a self-taught baker, Jill Rostine has risen in ranks in Columbia, Missouri, to now owning her own bakery and dessert bar, Good Food Co. She relies on sourcing locally and seasonally to create brioche cinnamon rolls, muffins, sweet and savory scones, cakes, bread puddings, cookies and more. goodfoodcomo.com PH

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St. Louis is lucky to have the incredibly gifted Lona Luo cooking in the city. The chef-owner of Lona’s Lil Eats, a small, fast-casual spot serving authentic Asian soul food influenced by Luo’s upbringing in China, was rewarded for her efforts in 2018 with a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Midwest by the James Beard Foundation. lonaslileats.com

lonA luo chef-owner, Lona’s Lil Eats

cindy higgerson owner, Larder & Cupboard If St. Louisans are looking for local and regional artisan goods, Larder & Cupboard is their one-stop shop. Owner Cindy Higgerson opened the retail store in 2014 for professional chefs and home cooks alike to stock their pantries. Higgerson also sells a house label of small-batch shelf-stable products, including Good Food Award-winning strawberry-lemon verbena and apricot-lemon-thyme preserves. larderandcupboard.com

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In Kansas City, Megan Garrelts’ résumé includes pastry chef and co-owner at Bluestem, a fine-dining institution, and Rye, which serves fried chicken, barbecue and pie. Plus, she’s a James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef; co-author of two cookbooks with her husband, Colby; and recipient of nods in national outlets such as Saveur, Bon Appétit and Food & Wine. bluestemkc.com | ryekc.com

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megAn gArrelts co-owner and pastry chef, Bluestem and Rye

kAtie collier chef and co-owner, Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria Along with husband, Ted, Katie Collier of Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria has continuously earned local best-of awards and national recognition for her from-scratch pastas, handcrafted pizzas, and seasonally driven salads and appetizers. Along with two St. Louis-area locations in Rock Hill and Town and Country, Collier owns Vero Meal Kit subscription boxes, which she launched in 2017. katiespizzaandpasta.com

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Green Dirt Farm owner and founder Sarah Hoffmann is a proud and passionate producer of artisanal cheeses made with sheep’s and cow’s milk at her farm and retail creamery shop in Weston, Missouri. And the awards prove it – including, most recently, a coveted 2019 Good Food Award for the ever-popular Dirt Lover bloomy rind cheese. greendirtfarm.com

sArAh hoffmAnn owner, Green Dirt Farm

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colleen sundlie owner, The Date Lady

Zoë Robinson has grown to be a culinary force in the St. Louis area with three critically acclaimed restaurants: Bar Les Freres, a romantic French bistro; I Fratellini, serving simple, authentic Italian; and Billie-Jean, her latest venture that garnered her a profile in Vogue in late 2018. barlesfreres.net | billiejeanstl.com | ifratellini.com

Colleen Sundlie knew the complex sweetening power of dates from living in the United Arab Emirates, which she took with her to Springfield, Missouri, to create The Date Lady in 2012. She sells dessert caramel and chocolate sauces and date syrup – and her California variety was the recipient of a Good Food Award this year. ilovedatelady.com

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Zoë roBinson owner, Bar Les Freres, Billie-Jean and I Fratellini

In the male-dominated world of sommeliers, Alisha Blackwell-Calvert leads one of St. Louis’ most progressive restaurant wine programs at Elaia, previously beverage director at Reeds American Table. Her array of offerings at Reeds landed her on Wine Enthusiast magazine’s list of 100 best wine restaurants three years running. elaiastl.com

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AlishA BlAckwell-cAlvert sommelier, Elaia

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Features 46

up all night

midnight snacks

Party with Pie Guy Pizza in St. Louis until 3:30am.

Hungry past 11pm? These late-night destinations have the cure.

kitchen open late Fun and fabulous late-night eats at Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room in Kansas City.

/ ma r c h 2 019

alking up to Pie Guy Pizza in The Grove, the pink and yellow neon pepperoni slice outside the restaurant is hard to miss. “That sign is like a neon beacon of drunken hope,” Emily Thompson, a bartender at Gezellig Tap House and Bottle Shop, which is connected to Pie Guy, will tell me later. Over the past decade, The Grove has seen a lot of change. The St. Louis neighborhood has long been a nightlife and entertainment district; for many years, it was best known as home to some of St. Louis’ best LGBTQ bars, and it still is. Those 10 years have also brought new concert venues, restaurants and bars and even a second location of Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. There’s still only a handful of 3am bars, though, and that late, exactly one restaurant serving food. That’s why I’m up past my bedtime tonight: to hang out at Pie Guy Pizza till 3:30am. My eyes follow the triangular slice, pointing to the order window below. In an hour or so, Pie Guy owner Mitch Frost will be seated here. Most nights, he’s slinging slices of his New York-style pizza to a line of hungry bar-hoppers. If it’s slow – around 11pm, ahead of last call at nearby 1am bars and before the neighborhood reaches a swell at midnight – he’s dancing. And if the neon sign doesn’t draw you in, the playlist, heavy with Travis Scott, Migos and Kendrick Lamar, blaring out into the cool night air, should. At the window, as tipsy customers contemplate their orders – classic pepperoni or sausage, or perhaps a pesto-topped vegan slice? – they can peek in the window and see colorful and playful pizza art in the dining room. Maybe they’ll also spot an employee tossing a dish towel in the air with a slight curve, like pizza dough.

The crew at Pie Guy stays up late. They know how to party. And you’re invited. 46

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l l i t g n i y t Par th i w m a 0 3 : 3 a z z i P y Pie Gu s i u o L . t S in

Written by Liz Miller Photography by Judd Demaline

Unsurprisingly, Frost doesn’t get much sleep on the weekends anymore. After closing Pie Guy at 3:30am on Friday and Saturday nights, he tackles cleanup in the kitchen for another hour or so before heading home. Late on Fridays, he leaves the pizza ovens on low heat until he returns at around 11am on Saturday morning, so as not to lose any time for the lunch shift. Mornings might mean bloodshot eyes for Frost, but it’s worth it for the first-time entrepreneur, who gladly traded a more conventional schedule to realize his dream. “I’m not a morning person… Like, 10:30am is early for me,” Frost says with a laugh. “I’ve just always been a night owl. My Friday and Saturday nights are long and the days are long, but it’s fun serving my pizza at 2am; it’s pretty much the coolest thing. So yeah, I’m missing sleep, whatever – I’ll figure this out.” This month, Pie Guy celebrates six months of business; the shop opened Sept. 1. In some ways, the pizzeria is the culmination of Frost’s experiences: His first industry gig was at the University City, Missouri, location of Dewey’s Pizza when he was 17. “They taught me how to toss pizza dough, and it was awesome,” he remembers. “I wasn’t a star employee by any means, but I was good at tossing pizza.” Dewey’s was just the beginning. Over almost a decade, Frost worked at a string of other local pizzerias, including Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, Pi Pizzeria and The U.R.B., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s research brewery that serves New York-style pizza by the slice. His job at Onesto eventually led him to teach pizza-making classes, passing on the knowledge he’d gained and learning more along the way. Today, if you walk by Pie Guy during its off hours, you might catch a glimpse of Frost effortlessly spinning dough in the air from the open kitchen. He takes great pride in his pizza dough, and believes a quality crust is absolutely crucial to the perfect slice. “That’s the most important part,” he says. “Some crispiness to it – that’s key. That’s what everybody wants.” Years spent working in pizzerias and teaching pizza-making classes gave Frost faith in his dough, but he didn’t have a clear vision for a shop of his own. Then, in late 2016, certified cicerone Brandon Cavanagh opened Gezellig in The Grove. Cavanagh always wanted to serve food at the craft-beer bar and bottle shop, but initially, there wasn’t space; eventually he leased the adjoining building – then a vape shop – and got to work converting it into a restaurant. The two spaces were originally separate, so Cavanagh framed out a large doorway and window to connect them.

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M itc h Fr os t, ow ne r, Pi e G uy

“I think it’s something we’ve needed in this neighborhood for a long time; it’s been one of the things that’s missing, and his execution on it has been near perfect.” Brandon Cavanagh, owner, Gezellig

Meanwhile, Frost, who was working down the street making pizza at The U.R.B. at the time, was already friends with Cavanagh and watching Gezellig's progress. Frost started volunteering for Gezellig’s disc golf-beer tournament, and later that led to bartending. When Cavanagh acquired the space next to Gezellig, Frost pitched Pie Guy. “I started getting in his ear about letting me have it,” Frost says. “He wanted to do a taco shop originally, but I didn’t feel comfortable putting up a taco shop because I don’t really know how to make tacos. Eventually he was like, ‘I think a pizza shop would work here, even though there’s two other pizza shops – two other pizza and beer spots – on the street.’” Still, Pie Guy is the only pizza spot – or restaurant of any stripe – in The Grove that stays open until 3:30am. Frost wants his products to set the pizzeria apart, but he also knew from the beginning that late-night hours would give Pie Guy an edge. “Nobody else is doing it, so why not?” he says. “That’s basically what it was. I knew it wasn’t going to be easy.” As Cavanagh heads into his third year with Gezellig, he agrees that Pie Guy is filling a void in The Grove. “It’s something we’ve needed in this neighborhood for a long time, and his execution on it has been near perfect,” Cavanagh says. “When I visit cities like New York, usually when I’m getting a slice is when I’m leaving a bar late at night. There’s been some late-night food available [in The Grove], but this helps pave the way for future businesses to adopt a similar model.” Before opening Pie Guy, Frost conducted a series of dough experiments using different recipes and flours from St. Louis-based Di Italia Imports with his naturally fermented sourdough starter. “And hands down, every time we used 00 flour, it was so much better,” he remembers. “We did

blind tests in my house where we had my friends eat one crust, then another crust, and every time, it would be that [00] flour was way better. So we use that flour now.” In Italy, Neapolitan pizza is made with Italian 00 flour, which is very finely milled and incredibly soft. That same approach to quality extends across Pie Guy, with Frost using imported olive oil and tomatoes for his pizza sauce, and toppings from local producers, including sausage and bacon from Such and Such Farm and mushrooms from Ozark Forest Mushrooms. To make his crispy, New York-style pies, Frost ferments his sourdough starter for about 12 hours before adding it to the dough, which then rises for three days before being tossed, topped and baked. Cavanagh believes that this focus on quality is what sets Pie Guy apart. Sure, the late-night hours are a draw – but so is the pizza. “He’s really killing it; it’s really good [pizza],” Cavanagh says. “He’s really going the extra mile with everything, and I think it shows. He cares about every step of the process. And it’s a lot of fun; that’s the spirit that I wanted to have there.” Eventually Frost knows he’ll have to hand the dough production over to someone else in the kitchen, but he’s not ready for that quite yet. He’s put standards in place for quality control with the pizza making, using screens to ensure the shape and size of every crust is the same, and markers on cutters so slices are uniform. Still, he knows he can’t do everything himself forever. “I don’t get much time to work on the actual business right now, which is back office, numbers, accounting, paperwork, events, social media...,” Frost pauses. “But this is what I asked for. So I’m always going to have the attitude of, ‘bring it on.’ At the end of the day, I’m trying to make the most awesome pizza possible. My whole thing is, don’t f*** up badly enough to ruin this place. Just make good pizza.” / ma r c h 2 019

At about midnight, The Grove really reaches capacity. Four neighborhood bars stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday nights – Handlebar, Atomic Cowboy, Just John and The Gramophone – and the latter serves sandwiches until 2:30am. At many other nearby bars, including Gezellig, last call is hollered at 1am, so that’s usually when Pie Guy’s dining room closes and the walk-up window opens. Because the two businesses physically share a space, Frost doesn’t keep the dining room open past 1:30am to avoid customers dipping into the beer bar after hours. The Grove can be unpredictable, but midnight is usually when Pie Guy really gets busy. Some customers are grabbing a $4 or $5 slice to fortify themselves for the night still ahead, while others, having already had too good of a time, are looking for a snack before dozing off in their Lyft. Standing in line inside, a customer removes a Pie Guy loyalty punch card from her wallet. “They gave me this last night because I lost my old one,” she says, “but they know me, so they stamped it a few times first.” Her friend asks her what she gets. “Something different every time,” she says. “Try the cold cheese!” Cold cheese is exactly what it sounds like: For an extra $2, you can have a handful of cold shredded mozzarella added to a hot slice. Frost got the idea from an episode of Vice’s The Pizza Show that featured the specialty from Oneonta, New York. The idea is that the cold cheese saves you – especially if you’re drunk – from burning the roof of your mouth as you eat a hot slice.

Another customer orders the Pizza Knot-chos, a pile of Pie Guy’s garlic knots topped with a mozzarella-Pecorino-ricotta cheese sauce, marinara, pepperoni, fresh ricotta, pesto and tapenade. Although they sound like the kind of thing you’d throw together at home at 2am, don’t be deceived: It took Frost about three months of development to find the right balance of ingredients, flavors and textures. Once your order is in and you’ve paid at the counter, a Pie Guy employee hands you a trophy with a number poking out of the top. Why trophies? “I just think it’s hilarious,” Frost laughs. “I went to Restaurant Depot and got these little dinky numbers, and I hated them; they didn’t work very well. And trophies just seemed perfect.”

c o l l a b o r a ti o n w it h S tr a n g e D o n u ts

M it c h Frost

Gezellig this way

efore the dining room closes, most customers take their trophies over to Gezellig and grab a beer and a table. It’s easy to see how the two businesses have helped one another; Gezellig doesn’t have to serve food and Pie Guy doesn’t have to have a liquor license. “It’s doing exactly what we had hoped,” Cavanagh says. “We have a built-in bar crowd that was already coming here, so [Pie Guy] has a captive audience from the start. And then, vice versa, [Pie Guy] being there not only keeps our people here longer, but also brings in people who are just looking for food and might come in and have a beer. We’ve always had some busy Friday and Saturday nights, but now, our slowest nights are a lot busier, which is a great thing.” Even at last call, there’s still usually a healthy crowd sipping beers and waiting on pizza. I even see a few familiar faces around 1am, a reminder that maybe I’m not up past my bedtime after all.

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Frost offers me a slice when I arrive at midnight, but I can’t – not yet, anyway. I’m hanging out for three and a half hours, and if I eat pizza right now, I just might fall asleep before 3:30am. He laughs, admitting that he can’t eat pizza this late either. He offers me an orange or a banana, the things he snacks on throughout the night to keep his energy up. I consider it, as I don't know if I’ve never eaten fruit at midnight. Then again, I’ve also never been sober in The Grove at midnight before either. Frost waits until 1:30am to open the window tonight, as there’s still a few people eating pizza in his dining room at 1am. Someone asks him if he’s thought about serving calzones; he says there aren’t currently plans to add them to the regular menu, but that next weekend Pie Guy will be offering a calzone made in collaboration with local donut chain Strange Donuts. Frost is looking forward to expanding collaborations in 2019, too: In addition to the calzone with Strange, Pie Guy worked with Old Vienna in late January for a Red Hot Riplets pizza using Riplets seasoning in the dough and crushed chips as a topping.

Sign up for the restaurant’s new pizza classes, offered four to six times a month on Sunday and Monday evenings. Frost teaches groups of around 12 to 14 people how to toss dough, prepare easy appetizers and salads and make your own New York-style pizza at Pie Guy.

Visit pieguystl.com to learn more and sign up!

WE BELIEVE

THE FOOD

IS HALF THE FUN That’s why Cape Girardeau offers

Within a couple minutes of the walk-up window opening, customers are lining up. Pizzas for the window are reheated and stocked inside a portable warming case sitting on a folding table next to a stack of white paper plates and Frost’s Square-equipped iPad. An order for two vegan slices comes in; those aren’t kept in the warming case near the window, so Frost calls back to the kitchen for them. Those pizzas are kept warm in the kitchen before being reheated in an 650ºF oven for 90 seconds before serving. “What I love about it is, with the style that we do and the reheat we give it, it just makes it the perfect slice of pizza; it’s so crispy and delicious,” Frost says. Although it was warm today, by 2am the temperature has dropped to 35ºF and Frost slips on a jacket. In the kitchen, two cooks and a hostess are cleaning up and prepping for the next day. After an hour of closing up next door at Gezellig, bartender Emily Thompson comes over with beers for the Pie Guy crew. “We got slammed tonight!” she exclaims about both businesses.

MORE THAN 130 EATERIES –

Grab a bite. VisitCape.com/Eat

CAPE GIRARDEAU

from hole-in-thewall diners to elegant fine dining and coffee made from beans grown around the world. Whatever your taste, there’s something to satisfy your cravings.

ST. LOUIS’

From 2am to 3am, several customers return for a second or third slice. Around 2:30am, a guy wearing a Domino’s Pizza jacket walks by. “Do you really work at Domino’s?” Frost yells. The guy nods, and Frost offers him a free slice. “We’d like to get into delivery,” Frost says with a laugh. Another customer pulls up to the window on a Lime scooter and orders two slices of pizza. Frost asks him if he wants a box – normally pizza is served on those white paper plates, but given the situation, it doesn’t seem like a great idea. The guy declines and scoots away, only to backtrack a minute later. “I’ll actually take you up on that box,” he laughs. As he speeds off, Frost smiles. “That was a first.” That’s part of the magic at Pie Guy, though: When you’re the only shop open late, you’re bound to see some things that nobody else does. Still, Frost says most weekends are fairly ordinary – just your regular drunken foolishness. He knows that at this hour, some of his customers might be too tipsy to appreciate more than a midnight snack, but he doesn’t care. He’s here to make good pizza. “It’s been amazing to see how much pizza we’ve sold,” Frost says. “I’ve mostly tossed every single one of those dough balls and made them myself. I’m just super happy.”

AN EVENING OF SIPS AND BITES TO END CHILDHOOD HUNGER NOW SCAN TO PURCHASE TICKETS

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 10, 2019 UNION STATION

Gezellig Tap House and Bottle Shop, 4191 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.833.5532, gezelligstl.com Pie Guy Pizza, 4189 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com / ma r c h 2 019

Party on!

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FROM FIRST BITE TO FINAL COuRSE planning a party at your place this spring? From your backyard, garden or indoors, you can enjoy the bounty of the season with local producers and caterers, from easy barbecue lunch boxes to an italian charcuterie spread to a festive frozen rosé cocktail. Edited By BETHANY CHRISTO

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GRACE MEAT + THREE St. Louis’ Grace Meat + Three has plenty of Southern-inspired catering options for your spring event, from its famous fried chicken and St. Louis-style ribs to shareable sides like mac ‘n’ cheese, garlic whipped potatoes, a housemade pickle platter or deviled eggs made with pimento cheese, hot-sauce aïoli and everything-bagel spice ($2/piece).

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5256 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.8550, volpifoods.com

20 S. Belt W, Belleville, Illinois, 618.257.9000, beastcraftbbq.com

VOLPI FOODS Engage your guests with a modern twist on a classic mezze assortment from Volpi Foods. At its shop located on The Hill, St. Louis’ Italian neighborhood, you can pick up the entire spread, which includes baked goat cheese wrapped in brined grape leaves, crostini, olives and charcuterie.

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BEAST CRAFT BBQ CO. With both bulk ordering and catering available, Beast’s lunch boxes (minimum 10 per order) are an easy party staple. Each box includes a sandwich – brisket, Duroc pork or turkey breast – and side choice of potato salad, pit beans, bacon mac ‘n’ cheese or salad, plus sauce, slaw, pickles and candied bacon.

Hungry past 11pm? These late-night destinations have the cure.

Written by Tessa Cooper, Natalie Gallagher, Katherine Herrick, liz miller, Heather Riske, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone and Jenny Vergara

stl p.54

p.58 Peacock Loop Diner in the st. louis area photo by bradley waters

No good night out ends without a little extra overindulgence, whether it be a greasy smashed burger, a plate of loaded fries or even a slice of pizza. In the following pages, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sharing our favorite late-night eats in st. louis, kansas city, springfield and columbia, missouri, including must-try spots and their signature dishes.

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note: The restaurants featured here all serve food until at least midnight, a requirement for inclusion on our list. For the purposes of this story, the kitchen hours listed are not comprehensive and refer only to late-night hours. For a full list of hours for each respective business, please visit their websites.

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late kitchen Hours:

Taste In the Central West End, Gerard Craft’s Taste is an industry favorite for craft cocktails and elevated bar fare. New executive chef Matt Wynn reimagines the humblest of bar foods – chicken wings – coated in soy caramel and served with cashew cream and sesame seeds. –Heather Riske tastebarstl.com photo by Spencer Pernikoff

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until 12:3 0am Monday t hrough Saturday

STL

Eat-Rite Diner

The Gramophone

4late kitchen Hours:

Until midnight Monday through Sunday Eat-Rite Diner went through a major renovation last year, but one item went untouched: its famous slinger. Former longtime owners, the Powers family, claimed that the iconic dish got its start in their diners, and the recipe hasn’t changed. Eat-Rite’s slinger features meat (usually sausage), eggs and hash browns slathered in chili, American cheese and diced yellow onions. –H.R. 314.621.9621 photo by emily teater

Smokey the Beer

The Gramophone has expanded from a bar and concert club into one of St. Louis’ favorite sandwich spots, offering nearly 40 – divided by baguette, ciabatta, sourdough, swirl rye or brioche – until 2:30am. From the recently expanded menu, we like Smokey the Beer, loaded with pastrami, caramelized onions, Swiss cheese and smoky beer mustard. –H.R. gramophonestl.com photo by rolf ringwald

late Kitchen Hours:

until 2:3 0am Tuesday through Sunday

Mangia Italiano

4late kitchen Hours:

from 10pm to 1:30am Sunday through Thursday and 10:30pm to 1:30am friday and saturday On South Grand, Mangia Italiano encourages diners to “come for the pasta and stay for the party” – which lasts until 3am daily. More than 40 appetizers, salads and pizzas from the regular menu are available late night; if you get overwhelmed, grab the crispy golden polenta fries, served with housemade chipotle aïoli. –H.R. dineatmangia.net photo by rolf ringwald

Felix’s Pizza Pub

4late kitchen Hours: until midnight friday and saturday

Volpi pepperoni

To curb late-night cravings without breaking the bank, head to Felix’s Pizza Pub in the Dogtown neighborhood. All day, every day, Felix’s offers a steal of a deal: paired with any draft beer, a one-topping slice of New York-style pizza is only $2.95 (we like the Volpi pepperoni). Craving a specialty slice? It’s only $3.50.–H.R. felixspizzapub.com photo by rolf ringwald

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FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!

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106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Serving Brunch Saturday & Sundays 10am-1pm

Mon–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri 11am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm First Come - First Serve (No reservations)

314-993-4844 8660 Olive in U City bobsseafoodstl.com

Crafted. f

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The Franklin Room

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Exceptional Food Reasonable Prices rices

packages starting at $30 per person

816 allen ave, st.. louis, mo 63104 | 314.664.7706

STL

Three Kings Public House-Delmar Black Thorn Pub & Pizza

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Friday and Saturday Black Thorn Pub & Pizza is a beloved South City watering hole, with fans of its pizza visiting from all over St. Louis. The graffiti-covered bar serves both thin-crust and Chicago-style deep-dish pies, but it’s the thick, cheesy deepdish with spicy sauce that keeps us coming back. Once you stretch off a hefty slice and see that cheese pull, you’ll likely agree. –H.R. blackthornpubandpizza.e-tab.com

Three Kings Public House adds a touch of whimsy to a St. Louis classic with its take on toasted ravioli, which are stuffed with spicy Buffalo chicken and served with a ramekin of Sriracha ranch. At its flagship location in the Delmar Loop, the T-ravs are available on the late-night menu until midnight –H.R. threekingspub.com photo by rolf ringwald

Peacock Loop Diner

4late Kitchen Hours:

until 8am to 1am Sunday through Thursday and Open 24 hours Friday and Saturday

late Kitc hen Hours:

from 11pm to midnigh t Friday and Saturday, 10pm to mid night Monday th rough Thursday

photo by rolf ringwald

A giant neon peacock-shaped sign beckons passersby into the Peacock Loop Diner, which serves classic diner fare 24 hours a day. The Finals Breakfast Sandwich, with a fried egg, ham steak, bacon and Cheddar cheese sandwiched between two fluffy waffles and a side of syrup, is a good choice regardless of whether you’re cramming for exams. –H.R. peacockloopdiner.com photo by rolf ringwald

Gooseberries

4late Kitchen Hours:

The B-Side

from 11pm to 2:30am Friday and Saturday

Gooseberries is known for its superb breakfast and lunch fare, featuring housemade breads, sauces and fun vegetarian dishes, like a KFC-style take on tofu. On Friday and Saturday nights, the cozy space is open from 11pm to 3am (with last orders in by 2:30am), serving everything from a triple-decker club sandwich to from-scratch waffles. The standout is the biscuits and gravy: Flaky biscuits can be topped with either sausage gravy, red-eye gravy or vegetarian garlic-milk gravy topped with an egg cooked your way. –Nancy Stiles facebook.com/gooseberrieseatsandtreats photo by rolf ringwald

4late Kitchen Hours:

until 1am Monday through Saturday

Buffalo chicken toasted ravioli

At The B-Side on Cherokee Street, a glowing neon “B” may as well highlight the three focuses: burgers, beats and booze. Stag flows on draft and burgers – simmered in au jus with a bath of spices, onions, Worcestershire sauce and, naturally, more Stag – are the specialty. You can’t go wrong with the house burger, topped with American cheese, grilled onions and Comeback Sauce. –H.R. facebook.com/bsidecherokeestusastl photo by rolf ringwald

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late Kit chen Hours:

Winstead’s

until mid night Sunday t hrough T hursday , until 1am Friday an d Saturd ay; drive-th ru open 24 hours

Kathryn and Nellie Winstead opened Winstead’s on the edge of Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza in 1940. Much of the 24-hour diner’s classic charm has been preserved, including the legendary Winstead’s steakburger, made with freshly ground lean beef. Make yours a double and get it “with everything” (mustard, ketchup, pickles and onions). Order a side of golden onion rings (they rank among Kansas City’s best) or ask for an order of half fries-half Tater Tots. –Natalie Gallagher winsteadssteakburger.com kansas city photography by zach bauman

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

Pancho’s Mexican Food

4late kitchen Hours: Drive-thru open 24 hours

Forget Taco Bell – if you’ve got a late-night hankering for tacos, head to Pancho’s Mexican Food. The drive-thru and restaurant are both open 24 hours, serving favorites like enchiladas and chimichangas, plus platters of carne asada with rice and beans. Our personal favorite is the Pancho’s burrito, with a hefty helping of steak, onions, tomatoes, jalapeños and guacamole wrapped in an enormous flour tortilla. –N.G. 816.531.8070

Ça Va

4late kitchen Hours:

until 1am Tuesday through Saturday

Looking for a classy meal after midnight? Get yourself to Ça Va, the cozy little sparkling-wine bar in Westport. The glittering bar serves its menu, rich with elegant French classics, until 1am. Don’t skip the croque madame – a grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich with local Fantasma’s Finest ham topped with a runny duck egg – or the fries. Ça Va’s pommes frites and classic aïoli are consistently voted among the best in town. Ask for a side of Mornay sauce for dipping the sammie and fries and revel in the luxury. –N.G. cavakc.com

late Kitchen Hours: 10pm to 12:45am Monday through Saturday

Westport Café & Bar Push through the red velvet drapes at Westport Café & Bar and claim a café table to enjoy this beloved late-night destination in Westport. Order the $12 steak frites on the reverse happy-hour menu, which features a tender petite top sirloin steak cooked to order with creamy Béarnaise sauce, house butter and crispy pommes frites. Pair your meal with a glass of French red, and you’re fini for the night. –Jenny Vergara westportcafeandbar.com

Also open until 12:30am Monday through Saturday in the St. Louis area

mission taco joint

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight on Friday and Saturday

Petite top sirloin and crispy pommes frites

With two locations in Kansas City – East Crossroads and South Plaza – and four in the St. Louis area, Mission Taco Joint satisfies late-night cravings across the state. Stop in for late-night happy hour from 10pm till the kitchen closes, when tacos and tequila shots are just $2 a pop. We love the slow-roasted duck and beef brisket birria, and the classic carne asada can’t be beat. –Liz Miller missiontacojoint.com photo by jonathan gayman

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181

event benefitting Harvesters' food bank. Enjoy samples of gourmet food, wine and cocktails from more than 60 of Kansas Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest restaurants and beverage purveyors!

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*Must reserve online. No holds, etc.

Town TopicCrossroads Arts District

Caddy Shack

4late kitchen Hours: until 2am daily

What’s better than cheesy ravioli? Cheesy ravioli that's been battered in toasted bread crumbs and Italian seasoning, deep-fried and served with zesty marinara. What’s even better? Getting those heavenly little squares delivered to your door in the wee hours of the morning. Caddy Shack delivers until midnight Sunday through Thursday and till 2am on Friday and Saturday; the family-owned restaurant also serves food until 2am daily. Pair your T-ravs with a thin-crust pizza for a feast. –N.G. caddyshackkc.com

4late kitchen Hours: Open 24 hours

late Kitche n Hours :

Fritos Pie

until 2 daily

Lew’s Grill and Bar If hunger strikes when you’re out and about during last call in the Waldo neighborhood, get yourself to Lew’s Grill and Bar, where the kitchen is open until 2am daily. And what a kitchen it is: The neighborhood eatery is known for its Fritos Pie: Tater Tots loaded with Fritos, housemade cheese sauce, chili, chopped onions and sour cream. Or upgrade to Lew’s Turbo Tots – spuds stuffed with Cheddar cheese and green chiles – for an extra kick. –N.G. lewsgrillandbar.com

El Pueblito

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Sunday through Thursday and 4:30am Friday and Saturday Tucked along Southwest Boulevard, El Pueblito is the best-kept secret in local late-night dining, serving Mexican fare until 4:30am on Friday and Saturday. Long after the bar closes, the kitchen stays open: Try the chilaquiles, which tops a bed of fried housemade corn chips with onions, cheese, a spicy red or green sauce with two sunny-side up eggs, sour cream and your choice of sliced bacon, ham or carne asada. –J.V. facebook.com/elpueblitoblvd

Harry’s Bar & Table

4late kitchen Hours:

until 2am Monday through Sunday Harry’s Bar & Table is a Westport fixture, known as much for its historic location and swinging patio as it is for quality drinks and a kitchen serving food till 2am. After a couple of stiff drinks, order the pressed Cuban sandwich, layered with tender pork shoulder, smoked ham, pepper bacon, Swiss cheese, mustard and house pickles and grilled, panini-style, on a French baguette. Served with kettle chips, cole slaw or red beans and rice, it's a hearty end to any night out. –J.V. harrysbarandtables.com

Since 1937, Town Topic has been delighting hungry Kansas Citians with its signature smashed burgers, breakfast platters, malts and fat slices of butterscotch pie. There are three Town Topic locations today, but only one – in the Crossroads Arts District – is open 24 hours. Ask for The Haystack, a specialty breakfast sandwich with one over-hard egg, any meat and cheese of your choice layered with crispy hash browns. –N.G. towntopic.com

Barbecued jackfruit taco

Tiki Taco

4late kitchen Hours:

until 1am Monday through Thursday and 3am Friday and Saturday It can be tough to find solid vegan options, especially late at night. Enter Tiki Taco in Kansas City’s Volker neighborhood, which serves until 1am Monday through Thursday and 3am Friday and Saturday. There’s a dining room and bar, but most people tend to order at the window or get delivery. Best of all, Tiki Taco offers a barbecued jackfruit taco with tomato and lettuce, plus a black bean and mushroom taco. –N.G. tikitaco.com

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Addison’s The Nachos Bianco have been on the menu at Addison’s since the restaurant’s early days. Crispy fried wonton chips are topped with melty Asiago cheese sauce, then loaded up with tomatoes, scallions, Kalamata olives, banana peppers, mozzarella and your choice of chicken, black beans or chorizo. They’re not traditional – but when they’re this delicious, who cares? –Heather Riske addisonsgrill.com columbia photography by aaron ottis

late n Kitche : s r Hou

t idnigh until m gh u y thro Monda y a Saturd

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

como

Instant Classic

pizza tree

Murry’s Restaurant

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Monday through Saturday A Columbia institution, Murry’s Restaurant is beloved in equal measure for “good food and good jazz.” Live music is offered throughout the week; cozy up with an order of the famous Brock’s Green Pepper Rings or the can’t-miss steak sandwich, but be sure to save room for dessert – Murry’s offers some of the best in town. –H.R. murrysrestaurant.net

Pizza Tree serves pizza by the slice all day, every day, and during late-night hours on weekends, you can get the shop’s signature wacky slices via a walk-up window outside. Cheese, pepperoni (made with cup-and-char pepperoni coins) and one rotating “wild card” (like the popular bánh mì with Sriracha-glazed pork belly and housemade purple kimchi), are available until 2am. –H.R. pizzatreepizza.com Secret Margherita

Wingin Out

4late Kitchen Hours:

until 2am Monday through Thursday, 3am Friday and Saturday and 2am Sunday With locations in Columbia and Champaign, Illinois, Wingin Out has made a business out of serving bone-in and boneless wings to hungry college kids. Try the sweet (and most popular) honey-barbecue sauce wings, crank up the heat with the Insane Buffalo sauce or split the difference with the hot honey. –K.H. winginout.com/menu-columbia

late n Kitche : s r u o H open o ind w

pw Walk-u am pm to 2 from 10 d n a Friday ay Saturd

Hot Box Cookies

4late Kitchen Hours:

until midnight Monday through Thursday, 2am Friday and Saturday and midnight Sunday Columbia diners love the freshly baked cookies at Hot Box Cookies: Whatever time of day or night, you can’t go wrong with the classic chocolate chip or indulgent red velvet, peanut butter-Reese’s or cookies and cream. If cookies alone don’t satisfy your sweet tooth, try a cookie sandwich with ice cream, or icing between two cookies of your choice. –Katherine Herrick hotboxcookies.com

El Rancho

4late Kitchen Hours:

Pepperoni

until 2am Monday through Wednesday and 3am Thursday through Saturday

Wabbit Food

El Rancho is open for lunch and dinner daily, but the colorful quick-serve Mexican restaurant is at its busiest during the wee morning hours. Step into the line, which often snakes out the door, and order the signature chicken fajita nachos, made to order right in front of you. –H.R. columbiamomexicanfood.com

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Sake Sakura $30 PER PERSON 15 BEERS ON TAP AND SECOND ANNIVERSARY BOTTLE RELEASE

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feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

como

Seoul Taco

4late kitchen Hours:

until 2am Friday and Saturday August through December and January through May At its Columbia location, St. Louis import Seoul Taco brings its popular Korean-Mexican fare to the late-night crowd when local colleges are in session. Stave off a hangover with the spicy pork gogi bowl; the take on classic Korean bibimbap features a sesame vinaigrette salad mix, scallions, carrots, sesame oil, a fried egg and a spicy gochujang-pepper sauce. –H.R. seoultaco.com Bacon-Cheddar potato skins

The Heidelberg

4late kitchen Hours: until midnight Monday through Saturday

Gumby’s Pizza-Downtown A sanctuary for late-night carb cravings, Gumby’s Pizza’s real signature is Pokey Stix. The garlic-cheese bread is coated in a garlicky butter sauce, a layer of Parmesan cheese and served with ranch, marinara sauce or more garlic butter for dipping. Pop in or order delivery at the downtown location till 3am Thursday through Saturday. –K.H. gumbyspizza.com

late Kit chen Hours:

until 2a m Monda y through Wednes day, 3am Thu rsday th rough Saturda y and midnigh t Sunday

The Heidelberg – nicknamed The Berg by regulars – is the ideal spot for late-night snacks, featuring buy-one, get-one appetizers during its reverse happy hour from 10pm to midnight Monday through Thursday. Split a large plate of bacon-Cheddar potato skins and an order of soft pretzels, or devour the crunchy chicken fingers and crispy fries solo. –K.H. theheidelberg.com

La SiestaDowntown

4late Kitchen Hours:

until midnight Monday through Wednesday and 2am Thursday through Saturday At La Siesta, the brightly colored walls reflect the vibrant flavor of the food and drink. The lengthy menu offers a variety of specialties, from cheesy quesadillas and burritos to sizzling fajitas and Margaritas. Head to the downtown location, where the kitchen stays open till 2am three nights a week; you’ll leave the restaurant stuffed and ready to sleep, hence the restaurant’s name. –K.H. lasiestamex.com

Pokey Stix

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late kitche n Hours :

Limited sushi m enu served until m id night Monda y thro ugh Saturda y

Kai After Dark Sushi may not seem like an obvious late-night meal, but the crunchy spicy tuna-avocado roll at Kai After Dark hits the spot. The roll packs fresh avocado thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been flash-fried in tempura batter, topped with ground tuna that's been seasoned with a house spice blend, Sriracha, finely diced scallions and drizzles of eel and ponzu sauces. â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Lillian Stone kaiafterdark.com photo by travis howard

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

sgf

PaPPo’s Pizzeria

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Friday and Saturday Feed your entire crew with the hearty The Kitchen Sink pizza at PaPPo’s Pizzeria. A meat-lover’s dream, order either the thin and crispy crust or perfectly chewy hand-tossed, both of which stand up to the ample toppings, including gooey mozzarella, smoked bacon, pepperoni, Canadian bacon, Italian sausage, ground chuck, green peppers and onions. –L.S. papposbrewco.com photo by ana elliott

Hurts Donuts

4late kitchen Hours: Open 24 hours

Pillowy cinnamon-sugar Nutella donuts are available 24 hours a day at Hurts Donuts, Springfield’s zaniest donut destination. The fluffy yeast donuts are topped with a velvety dollop of chocolate pastry cream and Nutella for a sweet treat you won’t soon forget. –L.S. wannahurts.com photo by Ana Elliott

Dublin’s Pass Irish Pub & Restaurant

The Pub Platter

On weekends, Dublin’s Pass Irish Pub & Restaurant’s downtown Springfield location serves appetizers perfect for soaking up booze until midnight. Indulge in the Pub Platter, which comes with Reuben rolls (the pub’s spin on classic egg rolls), Scotch eggs (pickled-and-fried hard-boiled eggs wrapped in sausage), plus other classic pub fare. –T.C. dublinspass.com photo by travis howard

late Kitchen Hours:

until midnight Friday and Saturday

Bair’s Sports Grill-Downtown

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Friday and Saturday Bair’s Sports Grill’s four Springfield locations all serve up the same American fare; however, the downtown bar and grill is the only one open until 1:15am Thursday through Saturday. After a drink or three, indulge in the Bronco Buster burger, which layers an all-beef patty with sliced grilled ham, barbecue sauce, jalapeños, crispy onion tanglers and smoky bacon on a fluffy bun. –Tessa Cooper bairsburgers.com photo by travis howard

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What’s on your Bucket List? AAA Travel can help ﬁll it!

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305 E. WALNUT · SPRINGFIELD, MO | (417) 851-5299 | THEORDERSGF.COM

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

sgf

late Kitchen Hours:

until 1am ugh Monday thro ay rd Satu

the Golden Girl Rum Club

4late kitchen Hours:

until midnight Friday and Saturday Sitting inside The Golden Girl Rum Club, it's easy to forget that you’re in downtown Springfield and not on a Hawaiian vacation. If you lose track of time, the bar’s kitchen has you covered: On Saturdays, Golden Girl serves food until midnight. Satisfy your hunger with nachos topped with Korean barbecued pork, queso and pineapple kimchi. –T.C. thegoldengirl.com

Kentucky hot brown slider

photo by ana Elliott

Slider’s

4late Kitchen Hours:

until 2am Thursday through Saturday

Looking for a traditional late-night dining experience? Sink into a booth at Slider’s, the Springfield hamburger joint that’s locally famous for its bag of burgers and shakes. Go classic with a side of golden onion rings or branch out with an order of breaded mushrooms. –T.C. facebook.com/slidershamburgers photo by travis howard

Warm shrimp, crab and Parmesan dip

MudLounge Coffee & Cocktails

4late Kitchen Hours: UNtil midnight daily

MudLounge Coffee & Cocktails is perfect for nights when you want to go out and yet you’re still craving a cozy atmosphere. Arrive early to snag a coveted seat on the comfy couches and stay late to snack on warm shrimp, crab and Parmesan dip served in a toasted sourdough bread bowl with fresh veggies and tortilla chips, or the bruschetta, served on a fresh baguette with kale-basil pesto, melted Havarti, roasted tomatoes and a balsamic glaze. –T.C. facebook.com/mudlounge-coffeecocktails-204731592900213 photo by travis howard

J.O.B. Public House Hot and cheesy with just a hint of sweetness, J.O.B.’s Kentucky hot brown slider satisfies myriad late-night cravings. The pint-sized sammie features rosemary turkey and Cheddar cheese teetering atop a twice-baked potato cake sandwiched inside a fluffy Hawaiian roll. It’s best enjoyed with a side of J.O.B.’s unlimited brown-sugar-and-sea salt dusted fries. –L.S. facebook.com/job-public-house-206919779434812 photo by travis howard

Tinga Tacos

4late Kitchen Hours:

until 2am Thursday through Saturday Tinga Tacos serves up twists on classic street tacos: One of its noteworthy signatures is the steak jam, with tri-tip steak, black beans, jalapeño-fig jam, pico de gallo, pickled carrots and onions. It’s perfect for those times when you aren’t sure if you’re craving something sweet, savory or tangy – especially at 2am, when such decisions tend to be much harder to make. –T.C. facebook.com/tingatacos photo by ana elliott

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Welcome Spring with a fresh new start! See what’s new!

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feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

Fun and fabulous late-night eats at Corvino

orvino supper club and tasting room

is actually three concepts in one: a casual dining room, a tasting menu restaurant and a live music venue. Chef-owner Michael Corvino and his wife and business partner, Christina, designed the restaurant to reflect what they love as both diners and industry professionals. “With live music, a solid late-night menu and creative bar and wine offerings, Corvino is the perfect Kansas City spot for

a rapidly growing urban neighborhood,” Corvino says. The wall opposite the bar is completely black except for the restaurant’s namesake signature raven. (In Italian, corvino means “little raven.") Painted by local artist Jeremy Collins, the bird appears to fly over a sleek black leather banquette. The stage is a focal point of the Supper Club, with solo acts playing every night during dinner service. And on the weekends, the energy ramps up.

Supper Club

A band comes on at 9:30pm – anything from jazz and country-rock to a 12-piece Cuban band – and plays until Corvino closes at midnight. Lights dim, people begin spilling in after events at the nearby Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts and industry folks and musicians push together tables as friends get off work and join them. “There’s a very communal, social feel that I think is special to our restaurant,” Corvino says.

in Kansas City.

The ethos of Corvino’s late-night menu is to take familiar, super-accessible dishes, and heighten the quality of the ingredients. There are 11 late-night options in total – pared down from a nearly 30-item dinner menu – from a cheeseburger to caviar, along with three specialty cocktails and three beer and spirits pairings (think a can of Old Milwaukee and a shot of Old Grand-Dad bourbon). 1830 Walnut St., Kansas City, Missouri, corvino.com

Pull up a seat at the bar, order a drink and dig in !

/ ma r c h 2 019

The late-night menu is available from 10

Cheeseburger

with aïoli, charred onion, pickles and Muenster cheese “When we were developing [the menu] in the kitchen, it was the cheeseburger that my cooks and I always wanted to eat. We get good-quality chuck. Whole chuck is the key to this burger. It’s a 2½ ounce smashed patty; we sear them on our plancha with a little bit of charred onion. I love American cheese on a burger, but it kind of takes over, so we do Muenster; it still has that melty, processed type of cheese feel that we all love on our diner cheeseburger. It’s a really fatty, salty burger, so [we do] a super sour pickle with lots of dill. And we make classic aïoli with garlic and lemon, which, for me, mayonnaise is the most important thing on a burger. That’s the dressing style I’ve always felt a burger needs. And then the bun, it’s an enriched dough. We’ve all had the bun that falls apart and you can’t eat the burger. So [the dough is] worked a lot more, almost like a Parker House dough. The bun holds together and it squishes like the bun you get in a drive-thru at a fast-food restaurant.”

to 11pm on weeknights and 10pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

House fries

Seaweed donuts with trout roe, chives and cream

“When we [first] opened our restaurant, [this] was actually one of our snacks that began the 10-course dinner in the Tasting Room. It’s one of our favorite things, one of our top sellers. It’s donuts, but it’s a vehicle for trout roe and cream, which is more of maybe a fine-dining type of thing. We throw seaweed in the donut because it adds a savoriness and saltiness to the donuts and brings it full circle.”

with cheese aïoli

“We think they’re really special. They’re super In fact, Food & Wine did a crispy, and they’re three-page spread on the recipe last year and said they sour because were the best fries they’d ever [the potatoes] tasted. They’re super crispy, and they’re sour because are poached in [the potatoes] are poached in vinegar before vinegar before they’re fried. There’s a traditional [french they’re fried. fry] recipe: blanch in acidulated water, then blanch in oil and fry. But we played around with the shape of them – it’s cut like a scoop so it’s easy to dip. Each piece has a little bit of skin on it, which makes them fry really well. When we were playing around with this shape, some of them were a little crispier, some of them had that perfect, fried-potato crisp on the outside. So they’re really fun. Those come with [what] we call cheese aïoli – it’s a classic aïoli with garlic, lemon and salt, and then we grate a nice aged white Cheddar in it.”

Tater Tots

with Imperial Gold caviar, shallot pickles, cultured cream and egg yolk “Caviar is a luxury ingredient: How do we make that more approachable and accessible? That’s always my approach with caviar. I don’t think caviar should be formal or awkward. You put it on a Tater Tot with a shallot pickle – it’s delicious. We’ve done a variation with puffed black-rice crackers. I currently landed on Tater Tots because everybody loves Tater Tots. It really helps get [the caviar] out there, like, ‘Ooh, I’ll try that!’” 72

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

King oyster

mushroom sandwich with aïoli, charred onion, pickles and Muenster cheese

Corvino’s late-night

“My wife and partner, Christina, is the general manager, and she does everything but the cooking. She doesn’t eat meat, so what do we do? We played around with a lot of different things – vegetarian patties, this and that, and we finally came to this: steak-y mushrooms that get that sear like beef [patties].

Cocktail Specials Although the full cocktail menu is available at Corvino until close, regulars love the choice of three late-night combos: a brew and a shot.

We do king trumpet mushrooms, which is a cultivated mushroom; they’re also called king oyster mushrooms. They’re large, so you can cut them to where you have lots of surface area to sear. And then we do everything else the exact same way [as our house burger]. We mimic two patties with seared mushrooms so it’s got the same proportion of cheese layered between it. It’s super delicious.”

old milwaukee and old grand - dad

Fried chicken with chile butter

dogfish head seaquench ale and del maguey vida mezcal

shacksbury dry cider and pimm ’ s no . 1

“Our fried chicken is very simple: There’s no brine, no buttermilk. It almost mimics how you cook catfish, southern Louisiana-style: shocked in ice water, [then] seasoned flour with a little cornmeal. It sticks really [well] to that freezing-cold chicken, and the meat remains super moist. We serve it with what we call chile butter, and it’s one of my favorite sauces I’ve ever made. We ferment It’s sour, it’s salty, [the chiles] with a lacto-fermentation, it’s spicy – like Sriracha; we do red jalapeño and cayenne it’s really spicy. chiles currently, and It’s aggressively then that’s seasoned with honey and spicy. sherry vinegar, and we emulsify butter so it gets all of those flavors you might pair with fried chicken in once sauce. It’s sour, it’s salty, it’s spicy – it’s really spicy. It’s aggressively spicy. It’s on the side, so you can control how much you have. And then we serve that with a different pickle; it varies a little, but it’s a thick-cut pickling cucumber and we usually do that with onion. Currently, there are sunchokes in the pickles as well. It’s not as sour; it doesn’t have the dill, so it’s more of that middle ground sweet-and-sour pickle. It’s very mustardy. We wanted the really thick, really crunchy pickle with the chicken.” / ma r c h 2 019

Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros to answer:

Where do you go for late-night eats or a nightcap?

Jackie Roach

co-owner, Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas St. Louis

PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

"My favorite nightcap spot is Scarlett’s Wine Bar in the Central West End. Depending on the weather, I would order a dry rosé or the Justin [Wines] [Cabernet Sauvignon]. One of my weaknesses is a wood-fired pizza. I’d order either the pizza Margherita or the meat-lover’s.”

Anakaren Ibarra Sous chef

Ethan Edwards General manager

Mike Atkinson owner

Rye Plaza

Gailey’s Breakfast Café

The Candy Factory

Kansas City

Springfield, Missouri

Columbia, Missouri

“I really enjoy going to Ça Va for late night. I love bubbles, and I’ve learned so much about Champagne and wine in general through Caitlin [Corcoran] there. I also like that they have little bites or bigger shareable portions. I tend to go on Thursday nights when they have live music; you get a little bit of music, a good drink and nice food with your besties or a date and have a good time.” 74

“There aren’t too many places to choose from, but Pancho’s is open until 1am, and it's a lifesaver. Most places you go late-night are diner-type places that serve breakfast, but this is a Mexican restaurant in a building that I’m pretty sure used to be a Long John Silver’s. The portions are huge, though, so you have to be careful!”

feastmagazine.com / m a r c h 2 0 1 9

“The Quarry, a pub and Cajun restaurant with a New Orleans feel. The house po’boy (andouille sausage, fried pickles, pepper Jack cheese, lettuce and tomatoes) and wrecked chicken wings are legit! The bartenders are world-class and make some fancy-looking drinks.”

Josh Collins Beer chancellor and co-founder

Big Rip Brewing Co. North Kansas City, Missouri

“Helen’s J.A.D. Bar & Grill has a surprisingly good draft [beer] list. I think it has been around for 20 years. The pizzas and wings are awesome, and the kitchen is open past midnight several days a week.”

Dave Elman Owner and roaster

Fretboard Coffee Columbia, Missouri

“Billiards on Broadway is always good for a late-night beer and burger.”

d E Ed t t I I M LLIIM Ly

EaRRd BI E t S k I nn!! t I cM aI Ma E R RE

AnnuAl wine beer & spirit sociAl

Sunday, May 19 General Admission 2 to 5pm VIP after-party 5 to 7pm FOuR SEaSOnS, 6th floor 999 n. Second St., St. Louis $30 EaRLy BIRd Ga $40 Regular General Admission $85 Vip GA and After-Party

For More Information: BIt.Ly/taStE-tOaSt / ma r c h 2 019

Certified Angus Beef Perfectly Marbled, Tender & Juicy. Our Certified Angus Beef ® meets 10 exacting standards for mouthwatering flavor, tenderness and juiciness. Schnucks in-store butchers are always ready to cut your steak to order and answer any questions. Stop by for dinner tonight!