July 2019 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

GO

july 2019

P. 5 3

your guide to

d i Wl

summer float trips P. 6 1

rare beers

in cape girardeau P. 6 6

55 must-try pulled pork sandwiches

Enjoy nature anytime!

Summer time in Missouri is beautiful and diverse. Finding places to discover nature in Missouri is easy with the new, free mobile app — MO Outdoors.

Download today to find your next outdoor adventure close to home.

Download for

Android

Discover

Nature

elderberry syrup Makes 1 cup of syrup ¾ pound elderberries (2 packed cups) 1½ cups water 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Put the elderberries in a large, non-reactive pot with the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a low boil and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until berries are soft. Press through a fine sieve using a large spoon and discard the skins.

Pour the juice back into the pot, add sugar, and cook at a low boil over moderate heat for 15 minutes, until the syrup has thickened. It will thicken even more after it cools, so amount yielded depends somewhat upon how long it is cooked. Add lemon juice and cool completely. Pour into a jar and store in the refrigerator.

It keeps for several months.

elderberry lemonade With a quick stir, a teaspoon of elderberry juice will turn a glass of plain lemonade into a beautiful color and a refreshing summer drink.

elderberry-vodka lemonade splash Run water over a martini glass and chill it in the freezer just until a light skiff of ice forms. Pour into the glass ½ jigger of vodka, a teaspoon of elderberry juice and a couple of shots of lemonade. Add a twist or slice of lemon. This makes a hot July day almost bearable!

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com.

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5

Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

July

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 7 contributors

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

ART

project manager

Art Director

St. Louis, Photographer

Michele Russo, sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1297

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

"I love when I get to spend the day photographing

production designer

awesome people; it makes me feel like I’m not working!

account manager, Kansas City Region

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com

Morgan Cook, mcook@feastmagazine.com 417.619.0131

Contributing Photographers

gregg goldman

Shooting DeWayne, Brandon and Jaime at Ebb and Flow Fermentations was just that: Their approach to brewing is probably more intuitive and spontaneous than most,

EDITORIAL

Brandon Alms, Angela Bond, Zach Bauman, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Gregg Goldman, Travis Howard, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Samuel Reed, Elaine Rhode, Rolf Ringwald, Madison Sanders, Amy Schromm, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Alistair Tutton, Aimee Whitmire

Editor in chief

Contributing illustrators

"I can’t count the number of Saturday mornings I

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com

Rob Donnelly and Katie Lukes

have spent perusing the Columbia Farmers Market.

Digital director

FEAST TV

account manager, Kansas City Region

Joseph King, jking@feastmagazine.com 816.944.8574 special projects Editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

but man, do they get it right. I'll go back soon to taste the outcome of the batch in these photos. And they may have given me incentive to get out my old home-brew gear. (Nah, I’ll just go back to Ebb and Flow.) Follow me on Instagram @greggold." (Yeastie Boys, p. 61)

LAuren miers

Columbia, Missouri, Writer

Wandering stall to stall, shopping list and cash in hand, I happily greet the faces I see. It’s a unique opportunity to make friends with the people responsible for the food

producer: Catherine Neville

I eat. I’m so excited to see Columbia’s outlet for fresh,

production partner: Tybee Studios

local products cemented in our community with the addition of the Agricultural Park. The Columbia Farmers

Contact Us

Market brings together the best of our city, and with the

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

fact checker

Rose Hansen

help of market director Corrina Smith, this is happening in new and innovative ways. There’s something for everyone at the farmers’ market; it’s a Columbia staple you don’t want to miss." (One on One, p. 19)

Proofreader

Distribution

Erica Hunzinger Contributing Writers

Hayley Abshear, Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Julia Calleo, Corin Cesaric, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Juliana Goodwin, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Justin Phelps, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Lauren Miers, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Shannon Weber

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Alistair Tutton

Kansas City, Photographer "I love smoking pork over the weekend: sitting back with a beer and working the fire for 12 hours. So I was thrilled when Feast art director Alex Povis said I had an opportunity to photograph a whole range of Kansas City's finest pulled pork sandwiches. It was great fun to go from the finery of Rye on the Plaza to the old-school smokers at Rosedale Bar-B-Q." (Hog Wild, p. 66)

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

pete dulin

Kansas City, Writer "Food connects us to culture, geography, history and family roots. While I was born and raised in Kansas City, my love of Thai food and culture stems from a close bond with my mother, who emigrated to the U.S. in the 1960s, and my relatives in central Thailand. Naturally, the story of Ryan Grobler, who grew up in Zimbabwe, and his family’s signature sauce, intrigued me. More

on the cover The Perfect Pig at Big R’s BBQ in Joplin, Missouri, by Mark Neuenschwander table of contents Go Out: Petrichor Brewing in O Fallon, Missouri, by Mabel Suen; Stay In: Fudgy brownies by Jennifer Silverberg; Features: DeWayne Schaaf of Ebb and Flow Fermentations in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, by Gregg Goldman

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

than just another small-batch product, Lal’s Sweet Chili Sauce traces back to Grobler’s great-grandmother in southern Africa. He not only brought a family recipe to Kansas City, but also shared a touchstone of his childhood and family roots." (One on One, p. 39)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 15 /

/ 13 /

DINE & DRINK Mean Mule Distilling Co., Il Palato, Architect Coffee Co., Sarah’s on the Hill, 21 Taps, Petrichor Brewing, One East Urban Bar & Kitchen

/ 16 / one on one

Nick Bognar of Indo / 18 / On TREND

Local rum / 20 / SHOP HERE

GreenLeaf Market / 21 / one on one

Mike Nikonovich of Grafton Winery & Brewhaus

and The Vineyards

Features

/ 40 /

/ 29 / healthy appetite

Plum-yogurt ice pops / 30 / one ingredient 3 ways Ketchup / 32 / the mix

Monkey Business / 34 / MIDWEST MADE

Barbecue sauce / 36 / mystery shopper

Candied jalapeños / 38 / the dish

Peach and blackberry mini pies

/ 22 / HOT BLOCKS

DeMun

/ 39 / one on one

Ryan Grobler of Lal’s Sweet Chili Sauce

/ 24 / one on one

Corrina Smith of Columbia Farmers Market

/ 40 / sweet ideas

Fudgy brownies

/ 26 / HOMETOWN HITS

Mel’s Hard Luck Diner, On the Rise Bakery & Bistro,

S&J Snoball Custard Shop

/ 41 / culinary library

Craig Howard of Howard’s Grocery, Cafe & Catering / 42 / quick fix

Mexican street corn salad / 44 / crash course

Fried Chicken in Five

/ 61 /

53

float on

61

yeastie boys

66

hog wild

Explore the natural beauty and summery eats along seven of Missouri’s most popular rivers for float trips.

In Cape Girardeau, Missouri, Ebb and Flow Fermentations uses historic and wild yeast strains to produce an ever-changing lineup of unique beers.

From spicy to smoky to sweet, dig into 55 of our favorite pulled pork sandwiches.

In Every Issue

/ 8 / from the PUBLISHER

Soaking up summer

/ 9 / events / 10 / feast tv

Best of: Wine & Beer / 74 / back burner / j u ly 2 019

7

Letter

I

from the

Publisher When the Feast team sat down to plan

have spent many hours

our July issue, we decided to offer you,

of my life floating down

dear reader, a primer on Missouri’s

the Jacks Fork River in an

rivers, outlining some of the best

inner tube.

float-trip options, while giving you suggestions on places to stop to and

When I was in high school, my best

from your outing as well as recipes

friend, Heather, and I would go tent

for river-friendly treats to enjoy while

camping with her parents for two

you’re on the water. Turn to p. 53 for

weeks every summer. (And before

Tessa Cooper’s guide to enjoying

you ask, I went to O’Fallon Township

float-trip fun.

High School in O’Fallon, Illinois – we moved to the St. Louis area when I

And what’s summer without great

was a teenager because my dad was

beer? Digital director Heather Riske

stationed at Scott Air Force Base.)

profiles DeWayne Schaaf and his new brewery, Ebb and Flow Fermentations

Heather and I would pack up a days’

(p. 61). Located in Cape Girardeau,

worth of sandwiches, sodas and snacks

Missouri, DeWayne is creating beers

(we especially loved Vess black cherry

that pay homage to the past as well

soda and Pringles). We’d fill a cooler

as beers that push boundaries. Once

with all of our goodies and her dad

you read about these unique brews,

would drive us down to a drop-off point

I’m willing to bet that you’ll make the

several miles downstream. We’d tie a

trek to what is quickly becoming a

small inflatable raft to one of our tubes, put our dry goods in the raft and then set off on a day-long excursion down the river.

There was rarely another soul to be seen.

It was just the two of us, the fish, the birds and the horribly persistent horseflies.

destination for beer-lovers.

For the beer-and-wine episode of Feast TV’s Best Of season, I decided to make beef pot pies that get a boozy kick and a bit of bitterness from the addition of beer. This is an easy-to-make crowd favorite that can be adjusted based on your preferences. The key to the perfect texture of the sauce is tossing the cubed beef in flour before sautéing the meat – when you add your liquid to the pan, the toasted flour provides a perfect thickener. For this and all of the other recipes I developed for our new season, head to the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com.

We round out the issue with a roundup of the region’s best pulled-pork sandwiches (p. 66). My favorite is the pulled pork Cuban at Sammich Shack in Hillsboro, Missouri – I stop as

Every so often, we’d pull off onto a gravel bar and have a bite to eat. Sometimes it

often as I can when I decide to take Highway 21 down to my cabin. Summer is a time to

would rain, making the spring-fed river even colder. Sometimes we’d sing at the top of

(hopefully) slow down a bit and savor the long days and warm, breezy nights. I hope this

our lungs, scaring off any wildlife – and people – that might be nearby. It would take us

issue gives you a few excuses to get out and explore.

a good eight hours to float down to camp, where we’d pull our water-logged selves out of the river and head straight to the campfire for dinner. Heather’s mom baked bread and pineapple upside-down cake on the fire with her cast-iron Dutch oven and we’d eat

Until next time,

Turn to p. 10 for my beef + b eer pot pie recip e.

trout that her dad had caught that day with that hot, fresh bread.

It was camp cuisine at its finest, and those summers in the Mark Twain National Forest offered memories I treasure to this day – my love of that experience on Missouri’s rivers is partly what led me to restore a cabin in the woods near Huzzah Creek. Now, I can experience our region’s crystal-clear rivers without having to pitch a tent. I love my time quietly enjoying the river as much now as I ever did when I was in high school – maybe more.

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

We're giving away a family four-pack of tickets to Garden Party Lights at the Missouri Botanical Garden!

Party after hours with drinks, lights, music and dynamic multimedia. Starting July 6, Garden Party Lights is open Thursdays to Sundays through Oct. 19. Visit feastmagazine.com/promotions to learn more.

Fr om a bl ue s- an dfu nk mu si c fe st to re gi on al fo od an d Dr in k sa mp lin gs , pl an th e mo nt hs ah ea d wi th fe as t

CALENDAR stl | 7/17 Schnucks Cooks: Mexican Street Corn Salad Wed., July 17, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to safely and easily remove corn off the cob using a Bundt pan. You’ll also learn how to deep-fry churros at home.

stl | 7/19 Feast TV Taste & See: Urban Farm to Fork Fri., July 19, 7pm; $20, $80 for season tickets; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., Covenant Blu/ Grand Center, St. Louis; ninenet.org/taste

The 2019 Taste & See series celebrates the Best Of season of Feast TV on Nine Network. From rooftop rows to hydroponic systems, urban farms offer up bushels of flavorful produce. From the sweet, earthy flavor of root vegetables to a rainbow of lettuces, this veggie-centric evening will leave you satisfied.

JULY 12-21

mo | 8/3 Blues Funk Festival Sat., Aug. 3, 6pm; free; main stage at West City Park, 2232-2292 Old State Highway A, Festus, Missouri;

ALTON, IL

636.937.6646; cityoffestus.org

The Blues Funk Festival returns to West City Park in Festus, Missouri. Along with exceptional live blues and funk music, the festival will feature fun for the whole family, including a Techno Bubble Bus and a free photo booth with props. Food and drink will be available for purchase.

kc | 8/22 Feast on KC Thu., Aug. 22, 6 to 9:30pm; $25 early bird, $30 general admission; The Abbott, 1901 Cherry St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City; bit.ly/feastonkc

Join us for a celebration of the Kansas City-area winners of our annual Feast 50 Awards! Enjoy samples from Feast 50 winners, as published in our August issue, including Kansas City's best restaurants, breweries, wineries and distilleries.

Visit feastmagazine.com for a full list of vendors.

27

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS

FREE

COMMEMORATIVE GLASS WITH RECEIPT REDEEMABLE AT ALTON VISITOR CENTER 200 PIASA ST. ALTON, IL

FOR M OR E I N FO VIS I T ALTON R ESTAU RAN TWE E K . COM

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9

episode: wine & beer

revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes!

Beef + Beer Pot Pies serves 6 to 8

recipe by catherine neville

4 slices bacon, chopped

½ large red onion, diced

1 lb boneless chuck roast, ½-inch cubes sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup all-purpose flour, divided 2½ cups beef stock, divided

2 cups quartered button or porcini mushrooms

1 cup chopped carrots

1 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme

½ cup IPA beer

2 tsp tomato paste

1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

½ cup frozen peas, thawed

1 frozen puff pastry sheet, thawed egg wash (1 egg and 1 Tbsp water, whisked together) / preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F. In a deep

skillet over medium heat, render bacon until it just begins to crisp. Add onion, sautéeing until it begins to soften. In a mixing bowl, toss cubed beef with half of flour, salt and pepper. Shake off excess batter and then add to the skillet, browning meat on all sides.

Raise a glass to our region’s wine and beer industries with this Best Of season episode of Feast TV. Host Cat Neville travels to Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, and meets up with the cooper at Hoffmeister Barrelworks to see how wine and whiskey barrels are made by hand. Then, we visit Claverach Farm just outside of St. Louis and meet a vintner focused on creating naturally sparkling pét-nat wines. Finally, it’s off to Kansas to meet the guys who launched Free State Brewing Co., the state’s first (legal) brewery since Prohibition. Throughout the episode, Cat shows you how to make pot pies filled with tender beef, carrots, onions, peas and, of course, beer.

Add 1 cup stock to skillet and then add mushrooms and carrots, cooking until mushrooms have released their moisture. Add thyme, beer, tomato paste and Worcestershire sauce. Allow to simmer until beef begins to be tender. In a mixing bowl, whisk together remaining flour and stock and add to skillet to thicken sauce. Once nice and thick, stir in peas and remove skillet from heat.

Spoon beef mixture into individual ramekins. Roll out puff pastry and then cut to fit over top of ramekins, scoring to allow steam to release. Brush egg wash on top of pastry. Bake pot pies until the pastry is golden and puffy, about 20 minutes.

check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:

Mondays at 7:30pm

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saturdays at 2:30pm beginning july 6th

mondays at 12:30pm beginning july 29th

Hours:

mon-fri: 10:30am - 8:00pm sat: 11:30am - 7:00pm 11982 Dorsett Rd. | 314.942.2300 | ddmaustl.com

Your Whiskey &Bourbon Headquarters

tasting events every friday

 More than 300 Whiskeys in Stock 10 Minutes from Special Order Available downtown St. Louis  Serving St. Louis & Southern Illinois for 78 years 210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com  

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Go Out DINE & DRINK / ON TREND / SHOP HERE / HOT BLOCKS / HOMETOWN HITS

â–Ş kansas city

Mean Mule Distilling Co. Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by angela bond

Mean Mule Distilling Co. is the newest distillery and tasting room in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District. By day, chief executive officer and head distiller Jeff Evans, alongside his wife and chief operations officer, Meg, and chief marketing officer and brand developer Patrick Little, sell bottles of American Agave Spirit in Mean Mule Silver and Mean Mule Gold. At night, the bar serves cocktails made with the spirits, headed up by bar manager Justin Klaas. Try the Mean Mule Marg, his spin on a classic Margarita; the Agroni, a Negroni made with the agave spirit; and The Supernova, a citrus- and rhubarb-forward cocktail. The tasting room also offers a small selection of wine and local beer, and will soon add other Kansas City-made spirits.

1733 Locust St., Kansas City, Missouri, meanmuledistilling.co

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DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

▼ CLAYTON, MO.

Il Palato Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Il Palato – Italian for “the palate” – opened in Clayton, Missouri, in March, the latest offering from restaurateur Michael Del Pietro. The menu features decidedly lighter fare than its sister concepts, with a focus on southern Italian cuisine inflected with Mediterranean influences. Choose from highlights such as tonno, oil-poached tuna with Calabrian chile-fermented vegetables, tarragon aïoli, capers and a lemon-Dijon sauce.

The beverage list features 15 wines by the glass and more than 50 by the bottle, plus craft cocktails and four craft beers on draft.

222 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, Missouri, ilpalatoclayton.com

From-scratch Pop-Tarts

◥ Springfield, MO.

Architect Coffee Co. Story and photography by tessa cooper

Architect Coffee Co. has transformed Springfield, Missouri’s south-side from a specialty coffee desert to a destination. The menu includes classic espresso drinks as well as one signature drink, The Architect latte, which features housemade vanilla and caramel syrups and Himalayan pink sea salt.

To complement its coffee drinks, Architect serves breakfast burritos and breakfast sandwiches made with local pasture-raised eggs and thick-cut, pecan wood-smoked bacon. Customers will also find sweet treats on offer, including slices of cake from Jenna Cakes, muffins, scones and cookies.

1604 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/architectcoffeeco

▶ KANSAS CITY, KS.

Sarah’s on the Hill Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow

Service-industry veteran Sarah Breitenstein has returned to her childhood home in Kansas City, Kansas, to open her first restaurant, Sarah’s on the Hill. Located in the former Wheat State Pizza space in the Strawberry Hill neighborhood, Sarah’s serves comfort food, from Italian lasagna and stuffed peppers to specials like chicken pot pie. Be sure to end your meal with desserts like Chelsea’s carrot cake. Currently open for lunch and dinner, the cozy spot also offers a full bar with local beer, wine and cocktails.

612 N. Fifth St., Kansas City, Kansas, facebook.com/sarahs-on-thehill-620272781742748 14

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

▼ CAPE GIRARDEAU, MO.

21 Taps Written by Heather Riske photography by elaine rohde

At 21 Taps in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, you can be your own bartender. The area’s first self-serve beer bar offers a signature beer wall with – you guessed it – 21 taps on the wall, ranging from domestics like Michelob Ultra and Miller Lite to a rotation of local pours from Charleville Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co., Six Mile Bridge and Schlafly Beer. The beer bar also offers a full menu of pub fare: Pair your beer with the popular pork wings, housemade thin-crust pizzas or Buffalo chicken toasted ravioli.

36 N. Spanish St., Cape Girardeau, Missouri, 21tapscape.com

▲ O’FALLON, MO.

Petrichor Brewing Story and photography by Mabel Suen

O'Fallon, Missouri's newest brewery and restaurant features classic American craft beer and corresponding pub fare.

Petrichor Brewing – which gets its name from the earthy scent produced after the first rainfall following a long period

of warm, dry weather – features brews including the Gateway IPA, a West Coast-style IPA; Brombier, an American wheat flavored with blackberries; and a sweet stout called Stark.

To pair with its beer, the kitchen serves pub fare both classic and creative, from a beer-battered chicken sandwich to spicy Aleppo pepper cauliflower with housemade harissa sauce.

7434 Village Center Dr., O’Fallon, Missouri, petrichorbeer.com

▶ KANSAS CITY

One East Urban Bar & Kitchen Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by angela bond

The bar and restaurant inside The Westin Kansas City at Crown Center now has a new name, look and chef. One East Urban Bar & Kitchen boasts a lively and communal bar area featuring 12 local craft beers on tap, a well-curated wine list and cocktails made with local spirits from Tom’s Town Distilling Co. and J. Rieger & Co. Chef de cuisine Charles Barr, formerly of The Savoy at 21c, has developed a seasonal menu of modern American dishes. The carrot-ginger-lemongrass soup, for example, is an ideal first course followed by the Pickled Fried Chicken Sandwich for lunch or the grilled four-ounce tenderloin for dinner, served with tomato béarnaise and black truffle grits with veal jus.

One E. Pershing Road, Kansas City, Missouri, crowncenter.com/business/one-east-urban-bar-kitchen / j u ly 2 019

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ONE ON ONE

/

st. louis

with Nick Bognar / chef-owner, iNDO

ONE on

3 Must-Try Dishes at Indo

Written by Heather Riske photography by rolf ringwald

Nick Bognar is best known as the face behind one of 2018’s best new restaurants – but he didn’t open a new restaurant at all. Rather, Bognar transformed the nearly 20-year-old Nippon Tei in Ballwin, Missouri, into one of the St. Louis area’s best spots for sushi. The same week he earned a James Beard semifinalist nomination for Rising Star Chef of the Year, Bognar announced plans to open Indo in Botanical Heights. The restaurant, which opened in June, is a slight departure from his work at Nippon Tei, featuring his standout sashimi and nigiri alongside plates with a range of Southeast Asian influences.

Luckily for diners, his omakase dinners (Japanese for “I’ll leave it up to you”) made the move, too.

isan hamachi

A star dish on Bognar’s previous omakase menus, the Isan hamachi features fatty yellowtail prepared with Japanese cooking techniques and served with Thai ingredients, including Thai kosho (a play on traditional yuzu kosho), coconut nam plam (fish sauce) and candied garlic.

lamb tartare

A spin on laab, a minced pork salad served in Thailand and Laos, this dish is inspired by a Christmas tradition in Bognar’s family. Chopped lamb tartare is served with a pungent laab sauce of Thai chiles and pine nuts.

Tell us about Indo. For me, the concept is chef-driven. It goes all over Asia; not just Thailand or Japan. Really, the idea is that each dish is kind of unique within itself. There are tons of interesting techniques across the sashimi, crudo and nigiri sections, and not any sushi rolls at all. It’s fun. A lot of the stuff we’re doing is stuff we held back on at Nippon Tei – we want to do food that’s not just good for St. Louis but good for the country.

Tell us about the aging techniques you’re using. Indo has a very cool aging closet that’s very consistent and temperature-stabilized.

It keeps it as low as it can possibly be so I can basically keep a fish hung up and I don’t have to do all these tricks to keep the fish super cold. I’m excited to see some of the larger [fish] that we’re aging up to about a week. There’s just a ton of potential; a friend of mine is doing a two-month aged tuna.

How are you combining different Southeast Asian influences at Indo? I love Isan food from northern Thailand. I’m taking some of those flavor profiles – spicy things, funky fish paste – and putting them with [ingredients] they’re not often used with. As far as drawing on those flavors, it’s me naturally reverting back to the food of my family and putting my spin on it. I had a good time writing the menu because it’s not just me doing a concept; the concept is me.

You’ve earned a reputation for your omakase dinners. Why do you enjoy that format? I love that format because it’s not just a private dinner where I go back in the kitchen while you eat and come out for a minute to introduce the dish; I’m right there the whole time. I think people like having a conversation while they eat everything. It’s super intimate. I don’t think there’s a lot like that, where I hand you a piece of nigiri and you eat it right there.

1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, instagram.com/indo.stl

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fried sea bream

Aged Japanese sea bream is deep fried until super crispy and coated with a spicy citrus seasoning. Several sauces including young chile nam prik, papaya salad and mango sweet chile are served alongside the fish.

PROMOTION

Summer Summer ummer in

Kansas Kans Kansas City City EdITEd By BeThany ChrisTo

Summer is Kansas City’s time to shine. From Neapolitan-style pizzas to phenomenal food halls to neighborhood taprooms, there are plenty of culinary destinations across the city. Head outside this month to find your favorite.

Top left: Hang out at the Lenexa PubLic Market all summer long. The food hall connects shoppers with great food and gifts from local entrepreneurs, plus live music Saturday nights from 7 to 9pm. lenexapublicmarket.com

PHoTo By BEN WHITE

Top right: iL LaZZarOne prides itself on its traditional Neapolitan wood-fired pizza and a fantastic bar. Whether it be a night on the patio or a business lunch, Il Lazzarone has got you covered. illazzarone.org

Bottom left: Unique and elevated in all the right ways, ParLOr is a collection of restaurants and bars all in one three-level space in the Crossroads. Come for the variety of food offerings, and stay for the artisan cocktails, craft beer and garden patio. parlorkcmo.com

Bottom right: FLYinG HOrSe taPrOOM is Brookside East’s friendly neighborhood spot featuring craft beers, wines and cocktails, as well as artisan flatbreads and handcrafted salads. Stop by for lunch, happy hour and dinner. flyinghorsetaproom.com

/ j u ly 2 019

17

DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

Tim Wiggins

co-owner and bar manager Yellowbelly and Retreat Gastropub

lo c a l

Nobleton’s Blue Duckett Rum “Duckett Blue Rum is a great product because

Rum is having a renaissance.

The spirit is much more versatile than legend would have it; regional styles offer flavor profiles ranging from sweet and fruity to buttery and rich. As rum becomes more prominent on bar menus across the country, local distilleries are getting into the game, producing rums perfect for mixing into

it’s made the right way.

It’s really difficult to make an unaged rum taste good without any additives. I’m

that’s exactly what Duckett Blue is. The

a Daiquiri or even sipping neat.

versatility of the spirit is a huge plus for any bar program, because it can easily

-Heather Riske

convert tequila and vodka drinkers.”

BEAUFORT, MO. Business partners Demetrius Cain and Dan Combest fulfilled a longtime dream when they opened Nobleton’s Distilling House in Beaufort, Missouri, last year. A former bartender, Cain quickly fell in love with the complexities of regional styles of rum like Jamaican or Martinique rhum agricole. To that end, Nobleton’s Blue Duckett Rum is made with 100-percent raw sugarcane instead of the traditional molasses; Cain says this gives the spirit, which is light and aromatic, distinct vegetal and floral notes. In May, Nobleton's released Duckett Rhum 103, a lightly aged rum, followed by the June release of a traditional Curaçao made with 14 different spices and herbs.

Beaufort, Missouri, nobletons.com

▪ WALNUT SHADE, MO. In the heart of the Missouri Ozarks, Copper Run Distillery produces bourbon, whiskey, moonshine and both a white and aged rum. General manager Brandon Moore says the Overproof White Rum, Copper Run's take on Caribbean-style rum, is perfect for mixing in cocktails with its rich, buttery aroma. While the Island Gold Rum is made with the same ingredients, it’s aged in whiskey barrels, imparting flavors of toasted marshmallow, and is meant to be sipped straight. Moore says guests frequently tell him they never liked rum until they tasted Copper Run’s.

1901 Day Road, Walnut Shade, Missouri, copperrundistillery.com photo by brandon alms

18

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

ROCHEPORT, MO. An offshoot of Les Bourgeois Vineyards, Rocheport Distilling Co. in Rocheport, Missouri, produces a flagship Rocheport Distilling Co. barrel-aged dark rum and a white rum. Marketing director Christa Holtzclaw says the two businesses operating in such close quarters opens up opportunities for fun collaborations; the signature Stargazer Wine Cocktail, for example, combines Rocheport’s dark rum with Les Bourgeois’ dry Missouri Chardonel, pineapple and vanilla simple syrup. Next up, the distillery plans to release a line of brandies.

14020 W. Hwy. BB, Rocheport, Missouri, rocheportdistillingco.com

photo by mabel suen

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◀ ST. LOUIS

GreenLeaf Market Written by Hayley Abshear / photography by amy schromm

When GreenLeaf Market opened in April, the goal was simple: a full-service grocery store providing residents of north St. Louis City with affordable, healthy and locally sourced food. “GreenLeaf Market is committed to partner with Good Natured Family Farms to bring products directly from local farms,” says GreenLeaf Market executive director Eyad Tammas. “In addition to fresh fruit and vegetables, we offer shelf-stable and locally sourced products.”

Highlights at GreenLeaf, which occupies an impressive 20,000-squarefoot space, include a robust meat and seafood department, sprawling produce selection, deli, hot bar and salad bar serving fresh and nutritious food. “GreenLeaf represents everything the community and its residents always wanted: access to a full-service market with fresh offerings within a reasonable distance,” Tammas says. “We’re truly a community market – many of the residents walk several times a day to shop and eat [here]. Just as the community welcomed us in, we’re proud to be part of this community’s future.”

1400 N. 13th St., St. Louis, Missouri, greenleafmarketstl.com

GreenLeaf’s Must-Shop Departments

Dairy and Cheese The market offers many local cheeses, including favorites from Marcoot Jersey Creamery in Greenville, Illinois, and Green Meadow Cheese in Sumer, Illinois, plus pasture-raised eggs from Contented Hen in Smithton, Missouri and Greekstyle yogurt from Windcrest Dairy in Trenton, Illinois.

20

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Hot Bar

Meat and Seafood

With its focus on healthy, affordable groceries, GreenLeaf applies the same approach to its salad and hot bars. Entrées include herb-roasted chicken with sage dressing and grilled salmon and sides like spiced sweet potatoes.

From fresh seafood to local grass-fed beef, GreenLeaf prides itself on stocking high-quality proteins – and lots of them. From the sprawling meat case, shoppers can browse boneless sirloin steak, bratwurst and ground pork.

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

gRAFTON, IL.

with Mike Nikonovich / co-owner, Grafton Winery & Brewhaus and The Vineyards Sips

must-try

and

Snacks

wine flight

Get a taste of the variety of vino made at Grafton Winery with a wine flight. Don’t miss The Vineyards Series Vignoles, a semi-sweet white wine that was awarded an 89-point rating from the Beverage Testing Institute.

Written by liz miller / photography by amy schromm

In 2008, Mike and Lori Nikonovich opened Grafton Winery in downtown Grafton, Illinois, inside a two-story building overlooking the confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. Less than a year later, the couple opened the Brewhaus on-site, offering a range of house craft beers. In the past decade, Grafton Winery & Brewhaus has seen major expansion, growing to seat more than 500 between its tasting room, dining room and outdoor patios. At first, house wines were made with grape juice purchased from other local wineries, but in 2015, the Nikonovichs planted their first Chardonel, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles vines on a separate property in Grafton, now known as The Vineyards. Today, all of the winery’s production happens at The Vineyards, which is open to the public year-round on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and daily from June through October.

seasonal beer

Brewer Jason Woods likes to mix up Grafton’s seasonal brews; this month, the Brewhaus

Tell us about the Chardonel, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles grapes you grow at The Vineyards. Those were planted in 2015. We had never had vineyards before; we would bring in [grape] juice, and we still do. We wanted to plant those three whites, because we thought those would be the best-sellers for the area. The Chardonel was planted with the thought in mind of blending it with the Vidal Blanc, and that’s what we’ve done. We had our first harvest in 2017 and had quite a bit more during harvest last year. We do a different label for these wines – we call it The Vineyards Series – and it went over well at our two locations, so now the distributors have picked it up; soon it will start showing up in stores.

The downtown location serves a full food menu and The Vineyards serves boxed lunches. What are some of the best-sellers? Burgers, by far, are the No. 1 seller [downtown]. We’ve always been known for our burgers.

They’re half-pound, certified Angus beef, and they’re really good. And the specials – that allows us to try new things without having to be tied down to the menu. So we’ve got our basic menu, which has the staples – salads, sandwiches, burgers, tacos – but the kitchen has really done a great job with the specials, including a lot of seafood. At The Vineyards, you can bring a picnic basket or snacks, and we’re now serving boxed lunches in addition to allowing guests to bring in their own food.

And what about the beers offered at the downtown location? Those are made right on-site. When we started Grafton Winery, we wanted to offer beer – domestics, but also something unique and something of our own.

We didn’t know it at the time, but we were the first winery in Illinois to have a winemaking permit and also a brewer’s permit. Jason Woods, who brews [our] beers, changes it up a little bit, but there’s always a Pilsner, wheat, stout, IPA, red ale and one seasonal. When we opened The Vineyards and moved the wine production there, we gained space at the downtown location to expand the brewery, and now [Woods] has a little more room to be creative. The beers are all served on draft and people can bring in growlers as well. We don’t distribute those – just the wines.

What’s next for the businesses? We’ve been working on expanding our distribution, and as we get more and more capacity built up, we’re hoping to be over in Missouri. We’re pretty well statewide in Illinois except for Chicago, and we’re going to make sure we have the capacity before we go into Chicago and Missouri. In Illinois, we’re getting hit pretty hard, which is a good thing – we’re top five in Illinois for wine production. Last year was around 14,000 cases, I believe. It’s a good feeling.

debuted a cherry wheat fermented with fresh cherries. The cherries add a light tartness to the hoppy, citrusy wheat.

snacks

The downtown location serves full lunch and dinner menus, including snacks meant to pair with its drinks. Try a glass of dry Vidal Blanc

Grafton Winery & Brewhaus, 300 W. Main St., Grafton, Illinois, thegraftonwinery.com; The Vineyards, 21028 Eckert Orchard Road, Grafton, Illinois, thegraftonwinery.com/vineyards

with a charcuterie platter of hard salami, mild sopressata, artisan cheeses, Greek olives, marinated mushrooms and crackers. / j u ly 2 019

21

DINE & DRINK

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HOT BLOCKS

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HOMETOWN HITS

Dave Bailey

owner, Baileys’ Restaurants

DeMun “It’s tough to choose between Sasha’s Wine Bar and Louie, so I won’t. I met my

Louie, the new kid on the block, feels like it’s been there forever. It’s spilling over with neighborhood regulars and industry folks alike, all there to share in the new high watermark that owner Matt McGuire has set for quality and hospitality

photo by jennifer silverberg

wife at Sasha’s 16 years ago, and I can still picture the first time I saw her there.

in St. Louis.”

photo by jacklyn meyer

louie

d e mun CLAYTON, MO.

The DeMun neighborhood in Clayton, Missouri, has long been a dining and drinking destination, but the small, tree-lined strip – located just across the street from the quaint Concordia Seminary Park – has recently seen a bit of a revitalization.

Established standbys for coffee and wine are now joined by restaurants serving vegan fare, tapas and some of the city’s best Italian food, all in a charming and welcoming environment.

-Heather Riske 22

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

SASHA’S WINE BAR

BARRIO

LOUIE

Sasha’s Wine Bar is a household name in St. Louis.

The bar offers an impressive selection of wines both by the bottle and glass, along with winefriendly fare like cheese and charcuterie plates, flatbread pizzas and sweet and savory crêpes.

The patio – which boasts heat lamps during colder months – is a perfect place to perch with a bottle of wine, split a cheese plate and watch the world go by.

When owner Alan Richman of DeMun Oyster Bar decided to reconcept, he went south – of the border, to be specific. Barrio specializes in tacos, tapas and tequila, including a selection of nearly 50 tequilas and mezcals, plus Spanish wine. The menu draws influences from Mexico, Latin America and Spain, including street corn coated in crunchy corn chips, chorizo empanadas and street tacos.

Louie embodies the best of neighborhood restaurants – you can grab a seat at the bar for a couple of beers and a wood-fired pizza or split a bottle of wine and indulge in charred eggplant dip with hearth bread, housemade pasta and a simple yet flawless roast chicken. And whether you live in the neighborhood or not, owner Matt McGuire’s top-notch hospitality will make you feel like a regular.

706 DeMun Ave., sashaswinebar.com

740 DeMun Ave., barrioclayton.com

706 DeMun Ave., louiedemun.com

SEEDZ CAFE & SEEDZ PROVISIONS

KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO.

HOW SWEET IS this CANDY SHOPPE

You can feel good about eating at Seedz Cafe: The menu features 100-percent vegan, nutrient-dense dishes. Look for seasonal fare including a veggie burger, raw pad Thai made with zucchini noodles, barbecue jackfruit sandwich on a pretzel bun and a deli-style tempeh Reuben alongside fresh-pressed juices and smoothies. Located just a couple doors down, sister business Seedz Provisions offers grab-and-go vegan donuts, coffee, tea and more.

With Midwest locations in St. Louis, Kansas City and Columbia, Missouri, Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. has become a go-to for third-wave coffee across the state, but the regional chain got its start in 1994 with one small café in the DeMun neighborhood. In addition to single-origin coffee, specialty lattes and tea, the menu features housemade pastries, sandwiches, salads, avocado toast and breakfast burritos.

It’s easy to feel like a kid again at How Sweet Is This Candy Shoppe: The tiny 300-square-foot spot is filled top to bottom with a rainbow assortment of candy both classic and new. You’ll find gummy bears, saltwater taffy and Bazooka Bubble Gum alongside chocolate-covered pistachios, amaretto pecans and dark chocolate-sea salt caramels.

The shop also offers shaved ice in more than 30 flavors.

6344 and 6530 S. Rosebury Ave., seedzcafe.com

700 DeMun Ave., kaldiscoffee.com

804 DeMun Ave., howsweetisthis.com

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23

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

COLUMBIA, MO.

with Corrina Smith

/ executive director, Columbia Farmers Market Tell us about the new What’s Cooking? series. Through our annual farm-to-table dinner, we slowly started building these relationships with chefs, and we wanted to highlight what they’re doing with our vendors’ products. We scheduled a different chef every month for the demonstration series, which runs the last Saturday of the month from March through October. Chefs use market products, so what they’re cooking will be seasonal.

A couple weeks out, the chef comes to the market. We’ll walk around, talk to vendors and throw some ideas around. Ultimately, we’re wanting to expose customers to new, different foods and have them step out of their comfort zones, buy those products, take them home and cook with them themselves.

The new MU Health Agriculture Park opened early in the market season. What can visitors expect from the first phase of the new pavilion? The first phase is the market pavilion, which is the center third of the building. We’ll have about 40 covered stalls, but there will [eventually] be a total of 98 stalls.

There will be bathrooms and ample amounts of electricity for our vendors and storage for the market. The urban farm will start to build out this year, and we’ll do beautification of the park. As soon as construction of the pavilion is done, the contractors will build out the barn and greenhouse for the Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture. At heart, it’s the same market, but we’ll be under this roof and protected from both rain and the hot sun. The only thing that will change is more opportunity to shop: We’re adding weekday market [hours]. And we’ll be in the same location year-around; our winter market will be held in the pavilion because it has drop-down vinyl walls.

Written by Lauren Miers / photography by aaron ottis

Spending a Saturday morning at the Columbia Farmers Market is a summertime staple in Columbia, Missouri. Here, farmers and vendors come from within a 50-mile radius for a truly local and bountiful selection of fresh goods. After years of dreaming, planning and construction, the market is gearing up for its best summer yet with the opening of the new MU Health Agriculture Park and expanded weekday market hours. New digs for the market means new programming, including the What’s Cooking? chef cooking demonstration series and gardening workshops.

With so many local vendors to shop and new programs to participate in, we caught up with market executive director Corrina Smith to learn more.

1769 W. Ash St., Columbia, Missouri, columbiafarmersmarket.org

The address listed here is for the new MU Health Agriculture Park. At press time, the market was still operating at 601 Business Loop 70 W pending completion of construction.

corrina smith’s

Must-Buy Market Finds 24

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

What other exciting things can we anticipate at the market this season? We’ve added gardening workshops every Saturday this year through the Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture. We’re adding children’s activities to our weekday markets. On July 13, we’ll dedicate the Agriculture Park with a special event. In late July, we’ll hold our annual farm-to-table fundraiser dinner, which ties with our chef demos. Late July and early August is prime farmers’ market produce time. When people think farmers’ market, they think field-red tomatoes, watermelon, sweet corn, cucumbers and zucchini. All that will be popping at that time of the year.

fretboard coffee cold brew

“A must first stop to put

peaches

blt(m)s fixins'

a jump in your morning

“Peach Tree Farm and Sandy

“Grab bacon from Sullivan Farms, lettuce from

market step, this cold brew

Creek Farm specialize in peaches,

The Sage Garden, heirloom tomatoes from one of

is a slow-drip Kyoto-style

although you may find a few other

The Veggie Patch’s 40 varieties, fresh mozzarella

coffee that’s less acidic

vendors with small orchards selling

from Hemme Brothers Creamery and sourdough

than iced coffee.”

throughout the market.”

bread from Uprise Bakery. Assemble and enjoy!”

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25

DINE & DRINK

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These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

▼ Branson, MO.

Mel’s Hard Luck Diner written by Juliana Goodwin

Mel’s Hard Luck Diner in Branson, Missouri, is a 1950s-themed greasy spoon where you can score juicy burgers and thick, creamy milkshakes – but leave room for the legendary banana split. The quintessential summer treat is large enough to feed four and comes crowned with clouds of fresh whipped cream. That’s not the only over-the-top treat at Mel’s: Try tackling the Avalanche, 12 scoops of ice cream topped with cookies, bananas, brownie crumbles, pineapple topping, strawberries, caramel sauce, hot fudge, marshmallow cream, chocolate syrup, whipped cream, nuts, sprinkles and M&M’s.

Whatever you order, expect waiters to croon while you eat – the singing staff even boasts a former American Idol contestant.

2800 W. State Highway 76, Branson, Missouri, melshardluckdiner.com photo by travis howard

▲ ARNOLD, MO.

S&J Snoball Custard Shop written by Corin Cesaric

▶ Osage Beach, MO.

On the Rise Bakery & Bistro written by Juliana Goodwin

On the Rise Bakery & Bistro has been a hot spot for breakfast, lunch and brunch in Osage Beach, Missouri, for more than 20 years. Favorites include the bananas Foster French toast, piping hot beignets with raspberry-Melba sauce and an array of eggs Benedicts. The best-selling European Benedict, for example, comes with poached eggs, raw baby spinach, caramelized onions, pancetta and shaved Parmesan drizzled with a black truffle Hollandaise. If you’re just stopping in for coffee and a quick breakfast, grab a pastry from the case; they’re made fresh daily.

With stone walls and tables made from wine barrels, the café feels more like a wine bar than a breakfast joint and boasts a drink menu to match, serving Bloody Marys, brunch Martinis, beer and wine.

The European Benedict

S&J Snoball Custard Shop is one of the most popular destinations for sweet frozen treats in Arnold, Missouri.

Joseph Sorg Jr. and his mother, Shirley Sorg, opened the snow-cone stand as a seasonal business in 1989 and later expanded it to include custard. Today, he and his son, Joseph Xavier Sorg III, run the business year-round and have opened four more locations in the area.

S&J specializes in custard and New Orleans-style sno-balls made with finely shaved ice and flavored cane-sugar syrups. With more than 80 flavors to choose from, including almond, root beer and black cherry, the mix-andmatch possibilities are endless.

5439 Osage Beach Pkwy, Osage Beach, Missouri, ontherisebakery.com

3857 W. Outer Road, Arnold, Missouri, facebook.com/sj.snoball

photo by aaron ottis

photo by samuel reed

26

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PROMOTION

PROMOTION

Nothing is more perfect for July 4th celebrations than fresh sweet corn.

That might be because growing up in Nebraska our summers revolved around harvesting our sweet corn at the peak of freshness.

GRILLED STREET CORN SALAD SERVES 8 8 ears sweet corn 4 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted 2 limes, juiced 1/2 tsp smoked paprika 1/4 tsp chipotle chili powder 1/2 small red onion, finely diced 1 jalapeño, seeds removed, finely diced 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 cup grated cotija cheese, optional PREPARATION: Preheat grill to medium heat. Carefully remove the husks and silks by hand from each ear being careful to leave the base attached so you have something to hold onto. Lightly brush each ear with olive oil.

Place the corn directly on the grill. Grill the corn, turning occasionally until charred on all sides, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove corn from the grill.

Place a cast iron skillet on the grill to heat. While corn is still warm, use a sharp knife to remove the corn kernels from the cob. Set aside.

While skillet heats, place avocados, 2 tablespoons olive oil, lime juice, paprika and chipotle powder in a blender; blend until smooth. Set aside. Add the red onion and jalapeño to the hot skillet to cook, about 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add corn and cook an additional 1 minute, or until heated through. Remove skillet from heat. Stir in avocado mixture and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Top with cotija cheese and additional cilantro, if desired.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KARA BEHLKE, REGISTERED DIETITIAN SCHNUCKS DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS

28

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

At the beginning of each spring I can remember watching my dad, out of our living room window, plant sweet corn in rows as far as the eye could see. Once the corn grew tall enough, we would fence it off and keep a radio playing ‘round the clock to ward off any raccoons or other critters that might sneak in and ruin our patch. All summer we would anxiously await the day we could harvest the delicious, golden ears. When the day finally arrived, everyone would head out to the field with buckets in each hand picking as much corn as they could carry. We’d dump our buckets of corn onto the truck bed and then we’d head back to the field for more. We’d all take turns sitting in the shade shucking the corn. Then we’d take the ears into the kitchen to cut the kernels off the cob to prepare bags (and bags) for the freezer, so we could eat sweet corn all year long.

This month’s recipe takes me back to those summer days spent with family and it’s the perfect time of year for you to enjoy sweet corn at its peak. I love grilling corn to give it that smoky flavor and bring out the natural sweetness (without having to heat up my kitchen). I thought grilled corn was perfect for the flavors of a classic Mexican Street Corn. I’ve replaced the traditional mayo with a healthier swap by making my own “avocado mayo”. It gives the salad a creamy texture and almost indulgent eating experience.

I am so thankful for local farmers, like my dad, that put so much hard work into ensuring we have delicious, fresh food for our dinner tables. There’s no doubt that small town life is very different than “big” city living, but what I love most about St. Louis is that everyone in the community comes together to support local foods, as well as the farmers and businesses that produce them. I can always count on that to remind me of home and take me back to my fond childhood memories of the best days of summer.

Stay In HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

There’s nothing quite like a fruity and cooling ice pop in the summertime.

Unlike your standard freezer-aisle Popsicle, these ice pops are made with fresh ingredients and rounded out with a creamy component – here we’re using Greek yogurt or labneh, a thick, silky yogurt with a tangy flavor that can be found at your favorite local international market.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef, Peachtree Catering and Rustic Supper in Columbia, Missouri Photography by Drew Piester

Plum-Yogurt ice pops

yields 12 pops 3 ½

½ 3 1 1¾ ¼

cups fresh plum slices cup granulated sugar juice of 2 limes cup water cardamom pods star anise cup Greek yogurt or labneh cup honey

/ preparation / In small saucepan over medium heat, add plums, sugar, lime juice, water, cardamom pods and star anise. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 to 10 minutes or until sugar has dissolved and fruit is soft. Using a slotted spoon, remove cardamom pods and star anise and discard. Let cool. Using an immersion blender, purée cooled plum mixture and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together Greek yogurt or labneh and honey.

In an ice-pop mold, alternate pouring plum purée and yogurt-honey mixture until ¼ from the top of mold. Add ice-pop sticks according to manufacturer’s directions and freeze until frozen solid.

pair with: Berliner weisse

PA I R IT!

Berliner weisses are slightly tart with high carbonation, two characteristics that work extremely well with ice pops. The fizzy bubbles in Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Ku’damm help cut through the creaminess of the yogurt and the sweetness of the sugary plum mixture. What takes this pairing to the next level, though, is that both the yogurt and the beer get their tartness from the same ingredient – lactobacillus – so they’re quite literally a perfect match. –Justin Phelps urbanchestnut.com

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HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

This spicy mayonnaise is delicious on

yields 1 cup

Spicy Sesame Mayo

burgers, sandwiches

½

cup mayonnaise ¹⁄₃ cup Sriracha ¼ cup ketchup 1 Tbsp garlic powder 3 Tbsp sesame oil kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

and chicken or as a dipping sauce for french fries.

/ preparation / In a medium bowl, add first 5 ingredients and stir until well combined.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Will keep for up to 2 weeks sealed in the refrigerator.

Serves 4

Curried Onion Bombs

In this recipe, we’re halving an onion and then carefully peeling back the first two layers to essentially create shells for your ground turkey-sausage mixture before baking them.

1 lb ground turkey

1 lb sweet Italian sausage, casings removed ½ cup panko bread crumbs ¼ cup whole milk

1 egg

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 red bell pepper, finely chopped

2 Tbsp ketchup

2 tsp red curry paste

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground paprika

1 tsp garlic powder

2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 3 to 4 yellow onions, halved and first two layers peeled and reserved / preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, add first 5 ingredients. Lightly stir together and set aside.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil and bell pepper; sauté for 5 minutes and remove from heat. Add next 8 ingredients; stir. Let cool for about 2 minutes, then add cooked turkey-sausage mixture and stir to combine.

Off of heat, form turkey-sausage mixture into balls. Add a ball to each onion layer to encase meat. Continue until all meat has been used. Wrap onion bombs in aluminum foil and transfer to a lipped sheet pan; bake for 45 to 55 minutes. Serve.

Atomic Hot Wings

My world would not rotate correctly if not for ketchup: This humble condiment can turn a dull dish into something brightly flavorful. I believe ketchup should be a staple in all households for its sweetness, tang and savory finish.

Recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Wings 2 habaneros, roughly chopped 2 jalapeños, roughly chopped 3 Tbsp ketchup 7 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1 Tbsp vegetable oil ½ cup lager-style beer 1 tsp ground paprika 2 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp garlic powder 3½ lbs chicken drummettes (small wings)

Ketchup gives this marinade an underlying sweetness and balances the heat from the habaneros and jalapeños.

Sauce ½ cup hot sauce 2 tsp melted unsalted butter to serve ranch or blue cheese dressing

Serves 6 to 8 / preparation – wings / In the bowl of a food processor, place all ingredients except wings; process until marinade is fine yet still a little chunky. Add wings to a plastic zip-close freezer bag and pour marinade over top; seal bag and gently shake until all wings are coated. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours, shaking every 12 hours. Remove from refrigerator 10 minutes before grilling. / preparation – sauce / In a small bowl, combine hot sauce and melted butter and whisk until combined. Set aside. / to serve / Set grill to medium heat and

place wings directly on grill grates; cook for about 16 minutes, covered, turning wings after about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and pour prepared sauce over top, mixing well to combine. Serve immediately with ranch or blue cheese dressing.

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/ j u ly 2 019

31

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Consider yourself a Piña Colada connoisseur?

Meet Monkey Business, an indulgent boozy treat packed with the refreshing, tropical flavors of summer and perfect for a poolside party. Based on the classic Virgin Islands cocktail, the Painkiller, this variation adds banana liqueur, orange bitters and orange liqueur for an extra burst of fruitiness.

Make a large batch and soak up the sun.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photograph by Starboard & Port Creative

3 Must-Try Tropical Rums Plantation O.F.T.D. Rum A high-proof dark rum is ideal if you like extra kick in your cocktail.

Pusser’s Rum The foundation of the classic Painkiller, this rum is spicy and packed with flavor.

Goslings Black Seal Rum Rich, sweet and dark, this rum from Bermuda can be substituted for a dark molasses flavor.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Traditionally, Pusser’s Rum would be used in a Painkiller, but any quality, lightly aged rum will work well.

Giffard Banana Du Bresil is one of the best banana liqueurs on the market. It's versatile and delicious, like bananas Foster.

This recipe calls for coconut cream, not coconut milk; look for coconut cream at most international markets and many grocery stores. Coco Lopez is my favorite brand of coconut cream to mix into cocktails.

Monkey Business

Serves 1 1 ¾ ½ 1 2 ¼ 2

oz rum oz banana liqueur oz orange liqueur oz coconut cream oz pineapple juice oz freshly squeezed lime juice dashes orange bitters freshly grated nutmeg (to serve)

/ preparation / In a shaker tin, add all ingredients except nutmeg, plus 12 ounces of cubed, cracked or pebbled ice. Shake vigorously until cocktail is frothy and ice cold. Pour all ingredients into a glass or Tiki mug and grate nutmeg over top. Serve.

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33

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Barbecue Sauce The most essential element to any summer cookout? Barbecue sauce. Depending on where you live and what you’re grilling, that sauce could be creamy and mayonnaise-based or tangy and mustardy. In the Midwest, we’re known for our sweet tomato-based sauces, yet almost every other style of American barbecue sauce is produced locally.

Tour the country's best ‘cue without leaving your backyard with these best-selling bottles.

Written by Hayley Abshear / photo by judd demaline

Carolyn Wells

Executive director Kansas City Barbeque Society

loves

Kansas City barbecue “I’m a daughter of the South, so I tend to lean toward vinegar spices, but Kansas City is the melting pot of barbecue – it’s

Although Memphis-style barbecue sauce is typically tomato-based, it's thinner and tangier than the thick and sweet varieties popular in the Midwest. Usually made with a base of mustard, ketchup and vinegar, Memphis-style sauces like Washington, Missouri’s Blues Hog’s Tennessee Red Sauce adds crushed red pepper for an extra kick. The award-winning pitmasters at Blues Hog suggest the sauce as a marinade, baste or dipping sauce for pork and beef. To learn more or order a bottle, visit blueshog.com.

At 17th Street Barbecue in Marion and Murphysboro, Illinois, revered pitmaster Mike Mills offers Mike’s Original sauce, which reflects influences from a variety of regions.

This is the tangy sauce that 17th Street serves daily, made with ketchup, vinegar and mustard. It’s best suited with chicken and pork, but also pairs well with beef and lamb. To learn more or order a bottle, visit shop17bbq.com.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Tomato-based, sweet heat sauce reigns supreme in Missouri. The style is a variation on the thinner, tangier sauces of Memphis and was first brought to the region by Tennessee pitmasters in the early 1900s. Today, the sauce coats pork, beef, chicken – really, whatever you’ve got. At Sugarfire Smoke House – with locations in the St. Louis area, Washington, Missouri, and Edwardsville, Illinois – try the St. Louie Sweet BBQ Sauce with ribs, pulled pork and brisket. To learn more and find a list of retailers, visit sugarfiresmokehouse.com.

Bubba’s Hot Vinegar Barbeque Sauce is Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que’s tribute to North Carolina-style dip sauce. The tangy and peppery sauce gets a dose of sweetness from tomato paste and complements pork shoulder.

Grab a bottle at Joe’s Kansas City in Kansas City or online at thekansascitybbqstore.com.

where all the flavors come together. We have the tang of vinegar and spice, the sweetness of tomato and a mild spice that takes on its own unique flavor. It runs the gamut from hot to sweet and tangy to tomato-based. And in Kansas City, you’ll encounter them all.”

South Carolina is the home of mustard-based sauces. For a Midwestern spin, grab a bottle of mustard sauce from Brobeck’s Barbeque in Kansas City, which is seasoned with garlic salt, onion salt, chile powder, vinegar and brown sugar. Mustard sauces are usually served with pork, but Brobeck’s suggests it with egg-based dishes like egg salad and deviled eggs as well. To learn more or order a bottle, visit thekansascitybbqstore.com.

photo by zach bauman

In March, Duke’s BBQ Shack in Wentzville, Missouri, debuted five bottled sauces: original, spicy, smoky hot sauce, buttermilk ranch and Alabama white. Traditionally served with poultry but also popular on pulled pork, Duke’s white sauce is made with mayonnaise, horseradish, sour cream and house spices. The creamy sauce has a slight kick and makes an ideal pairing with smoked chicken. To learn more or order a bottle, visit dukesbbqshack.com.

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35

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

What Is It? Candied jalapeños are not exotic by nature, but you have to look to find them on store shelves. Affectionately called “cowboy candy,” they hail from Texas, and their name says it all: These spicy-sweet delights are simply fresh jalapeños cooked in a sugary syrup until they eat like candy. They’re hot, sweet, sticky and magnificent, perfect to have around when summer hits its peak. If you keep peppers in your garden, consider this a new way to use them up.

Most months, these pages are graced with exotic ingredients you’ve never heard of, often from far-off locales, plucked from the shelves of international markets.

Not this month, friends!

What Do I Do With It? Candied jalapeños can go anywhere a regular or pickled jalapeño can, but with a specific sweetness that mutes the first bite, and a soft, irresistible texture that plays well with others. Pile them onto tacos, nachos, hot dogs, salads, burgers, pizza or pulled pork, garnish soups or hummus, chop and add to hot or cold dips, baked beans or slaw. Once you plow through the peppers, use the syrup to glaze grilled meats and fish, or add a savory zing to your favorite cocktail or a fresh pitcher of lemonade.

You can find candied jalapeños tucked away in many grocery stores, often in some obscure corner of the jam and preserves section or hanging out with the pickle relishes. If you seek and cannot find, use this recipe: You can add spices to customize it, but I prefer to keep it simple.

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Summer Crab Dip

Serves 8 to 10

Candied Jalapeños (Yields 4 cups) 2 cups apple cider vinegar 6 cups granulated sugar 2 lbs fresh jalapeños, stems removed and discarded, sliced into ¼-inch rounds Summer Crab Dip 8 oz (1 cup) room-temperature cream cheese 1 cup mayonnaise ¾ tsp smoked paprika, divided ½ tsp Old Bay seasoning ¼ tsp dry mustard ½ tsp kosher salt 1 cup grated sharp white Cheddar cheese 1 lb fresh crab meat ½ cup candied jalapeños, drained of syrup, roughly chopped (recipe below) 1 baguette (to serve) melted unsalted butter (to serve) fresh chives, sliced into matchsticks (for garnish)

Not into crab?

This is just as just as summery and delicious with cooked and finely chopped shrimp.

/ preparation – candied jalapeños /

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add apple cider vinegar and sugar, stirring mixture until sugar dissolves and comes to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes; stir in jalapeño rounds, bring back to a boil and let bubble for 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer jalapeños to canning jars. Set liquid back over heat, increase heat to high and bring to a boil for 5 minutes or until liquid thickens slightly; pour over jalapeños. Let cool to room temperature; seal and refrigerate. / preparation – summer crab dip /

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, stir together cream cheese, mayonnaise, ½ teaspoon smoked paprika, Old Bay, dry mustard and salt until evenly combined.

Fold in Cheddar cheese, crab meat and candied jalapeños; spread into a casserole dish and bake until bubbly and golden around the edges and heated through to center, 15 to 20 minutes.

While dip is cooking, brush both sides of baguette with melted butter using a silicone brush. In a grill pan over high heat, grill bread until crisp. When cool enough to handle, cut into slices. Set aside. / to serve / Dust crab dip with remaining

smoked paprika and garnish with chives; serve warm with grilled bread.

pair with: Cayuga White

PA I R IT!

This combination of seafood and candied jalapeños calls for a crisp and refreshing, fruit-forward white wine. Look for something with bright acidity, which will balance the heat from the jalapeños and enhance the flavors of the crab dip. Ladoga Ridge Winery in Smithville, Missouri, produces a dry white wine from Cayuga grapes that bursts with flavors of green apple and peach. The fruit characteristics in this wine give it a sense of sweetness that pairs well with the heat in the dish. –Hilary Hedges ladogaridgewinery.com

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37

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

peach & blackberry MINI PIES

owner Cherry Picker Package x Fare

Prairie Pie “We love everything about Eleanor and her pies! Her creations have become a staple on Cherry Picker’s

In the Springfield area, look for Prairie Pie by the slice at Cherry Picker Package x Fare, Druff’s, Vito’s Kitchen, Mudhouse Coffee and Truman Sweet Shop, or pick up mini pies on weekends at Harrison House Market and Mama Jean’s Natural Market. -liz miller

shelves. Whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner, you can always find a reason for Prairie Pie.”

Recipe courtesy Eleanor Taylor, owner and baker, Prairie Pie Photography by brandon alms

yields 2 mini pies

Double this recipe to make one 10-inch pie. If you’d prefer to buy a prebaked frozen crust to use in this recipe, Taylor says to use a 7-inch round cookie cutter to form mini crusts.

Peach and Blackberry Pie Filling 3 medium-sized ripe peaches, peeled, pitted and cubed 10 fresh blackberries, washed ¼ cup granulated sugar

2 Tbsp tightly packed brown sugar

1 Tbsp cornstarch

1 dash Angostura bitters pinch ground cinnamon pinch ground allspice all-butter pie crust

1 cup granulated sugar ¹⁄₃ cup cold water

1 tsp apple cider vinegar 1¼ cup unbleached, all-purpose flour ½ tsp kosher salt

1 stick cold unsalted butter

"I love baking with fruit that's in peak season because it has such a rich flavor; all you need to create a delicious pie filling is fresh, ripe fruit [and] a bit of sugar and your pie will be scrumptious.”

–Eleanor Taylor

assembly

egg wash (1 egg and 1 Tbsp water, whisked together) granulated sugar vanilla ice cream (to serve) / preparation – filling / In a large bowl, add all ingredients and stir well to combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve, then bring to room temperature. Filling will keep in refrigerator for 1 day; sugar will produce excess juice from fruit, which may need to be drained before adding to pie crust. / preparation – crust / In a small bowl, combine water and apple cider vinegar. Refrigerate until chilled.

Tart blackberries add wonderful flavor, color and texture to a juicy peach pie.

In a medium mixing bowl, using a pastry cutter, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and mix until butter breaks down into small pea-sized pieces. Slowly drizzle chilled water-vinegar mixture into batter, and using your hands, work dough into a ball. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Grease 5-inch mini pie tins and set aside. Roll out chilled pie crust to ¼-inch thick. Using a 7-inch-round cookie cutter, cut 2 circles; reserve dough scraps. Transfer dough circles to prepared pie tins and freeze for 5 to 10 minutes. Form scrap dough into a ball and roll out to ¹⁄₈-inch thick. Using a pizza cutter, cut dough into 12 half-inch-by-5 inch strips for lattice. Refrigerate for 5 to 10 minutes. / assembly / Preheat oven to 325°F. Remove pie tins from freezer and fill each with filling. Remove lattice dough from refrigerator and arrange in a weaving crisscross pattern over top of filling. Using a fork, press edges of lattice around the top edge of pie tins; using kitchen scissors, remove excess dough and discard. Brush lattice and edges with egg wash and sprinkle sugar over top. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes.

Serve slightly warm with vanilla ice cream.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

photo by ana elliott

Eleanor Taylor loves pie. From classics like chocolate custard and lemon meringue to creative flavors such as matcha custard and hibiscus-lemon, Taylor’s Prairie Pie has upped the crust game in Springfield, Missouri. This month, during the height of the local growing season, Taylor is excited to share flavors that show off fresh produce.

Josh Widner

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

kansas city

with Ryan Grobler / founder, Lal’s Sweet Chili Sauce Written by Pete Dulin photography by zach bauman

Ryan Grobler named Lal’s Sweet Chili Sauce after his mother, Lal, yet the company’s original sauce recipe was developed by Grobler’s great-grandmother in Africa. Lal was raised on a farm in Zimbabwe before moving to South Africa; she eventually immigrated to the United States. Grobler has vivid childhood memories of his mother making the sweet chile sauce and

Tell us more about the origin of the sauce.

The original recipe was discovered in Lal’s grandmother’s cookbook and was given to her by an Indian gentleman who made a form of it as a relish. The recipe was passed down through generations and changed slightly from the original. A bottle of Lal’s was always in the fridge and was used at dinner parties or on a daily basis. Friends and family loved the sauce and always complimented Lal on the recipe. We loved it growing up and continue to enjoy it with our families now. The recipe still remains closely guarded.

remembers a bottle always being kept in the refrigerator or on the shelf. Grobler now shares his family’s signature sauce with all of Kansas City, producing Lal’s original sauce along with three other flavors. Spicier versions of the four sauces as well as two new flavors are currently in development.

Why did you decide to bottle and sell the sauce?

I always made the sauce, having the recipe from my mother. People absolutely loved the flavor when we used it at home or took some as a gift to parties. We slowly allowed people in the market to taste it and give a thumbs up or thumbs down, and we got an overwhelming yes. That pushed me into starting production of the sauce in October 2018.

How did you develop the other flavors? I decided to research other flavors that would allow for a larger audience. I met chef Yahia Kamal [of Yummy’s Choice in Kansas City] several years prior and spoke about this project. He showed interest in helping develop and market Lal’s Sweet Chili Sauce. Chef Kamal whipped up several flavors for testing, and we decided on the original, chipotle, horseradish and raspberry.

Where are the sauces sold? They’re sold in 20-plus grocery stores throughout the Kansas City area, including Cosentino’s [Market], HyVee, McGonigle’s Market and Price Chopper. Our first pallets have shipped to Denver. We will distribute across several states over the next few months.

The sauce can also be purchased online and shipped anywhere in the U.S.

f

lalssweetchili.com

oo

d pairings

for Lal's sauces The original is sweet with a spicy kick. Pair it with eggs, quesadillas, flatbreads, cheeses and roast chicken.

With fruitiness, smokiness and a sweet-and-spicy base, the chipotle is excellent over eggs or in a burrito.

It also pairs well with hot dogs, hamburgers, steak and sandwiches.

Zesty and tangy, the horseradish can be substituted for cocktail sauce or used to glaze salmon. For a classic complement, smear it on a Reuben sandwich.

The raspberry is fruity with a prominent berry flavor, making it a natural fit with pork tenderloin, pork chops, duck, sharp Cheddar and soft bloomy-rind cheeses. / j u ly 2 019

39

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Fudgy Brownies

yields 1 9-inch square pan

This brownie recipe has long been one of my most closely guarded secrets – that is, until now.

The recipe has been in my repertoire since culinary school, when it was gifted to me from another chef. It’s made so special by the use of melted chocolate instead of the more common cocoa powder; the result is super fudgy and intensely chocolatey. Be sure to buy good-quality chocolate labeled as 100-percent unsweetened for these brownies, as semi-sweet or dark chocolate will make them too sweet.

Story and recipe by Christy Augustin, chef-owner, Pint Size Bakery in St. Louis Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Like vanilla extract, espresso extract adds distinct flavor to baked goods. Look for espresso extract in specialty grocery stores or online.

nonstick cooking oil spray 6 oz unsweetened 100-percent chocolate, roughly chopped 1 cup unsalted butter, cubed 2 cups granulated sugar ¾ tsp kosher salt 4 eggs 1½ tsp vanilla extract 1½ tsp espresso extract (optional) 1¾ cups cake flour 1¼ cups semi-sweet chocolate chunks or toasted walnuts (optional) ½ cup powdered sugar (optional) / preparation / Preheat oven to 375°F. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick cooking oil spray. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper and set aside.

In a large saucepot over medium heat, bring about 2 inches of water to a simmer.

Place a heatproof bowl over pot and add chocolate and butter, stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula just until melted.

Remove from heat and whisk in sugar and salt, then eggs, vanilla and espresso extract, if using.

Using a hand-held sifter, sift cake flour over top of melted chocolate, working in 2 batches; whisk well to combine.

Add chocolate chunks or toasted nuts, if using, and stir with a spatula. Spread into prepared pan and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until edges start to crack. The center should still be fairly soft. Once pan comes to room temperature, refrigerate brownies for several hours, preferably overnight. Remove from pan, cut into 9 to 12 brownies using a sharp knife and dust with powdered sugar. Serve.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

CULINARY LIBRARY /

kansas city

with Craig Howard

/

executive chef and owner,

Howard’s Grocery, Cafe & Catering tCraig Howard has always been just as interested in growing fresh vegetables as he is

passionate about cooking them. That gives the food at his downtown weekday lunch spot,

Howard’s Grocery, Cafe & Catering, a freshness you can taste in every bite. After successfully helping to launch the food menu at The Campground in the West Bottoms, Howard is now back in his own kitchen, and has just purchased a new home with an acre of land where he plans to plant an urban garden and raise egg-laying chickens. Here, Howard shares a few of the cookbooks that have inspired his culinary career. -Jenny Vergara

The New Organic Grower

Preserving the Harvest

Bouchon

by Eliot Coleman (1995)

by Carol W. Costenbader (1997)

by Thomas Keller (2004)

“Eliot Coleman is my idol – he stoked my passion for growing vegetables. Farming has been a big building block in my career; it's taught me how and why to grow vegetables.

It also keeps me tuned into the importance of the food loop between growers and chefs and ultimately the consumer. Knowing the step-by-step process from seed to plate inspires me to be creative and strive to be better in my cooking.”

“This book came to me by way of Half Price Books. When I was a young cook in my teens and early 20s, I would go to Half Price Books and get a box of cookbooks at a time. There were so many bits and pieces that I picked up from the dozens of books I got there, but this one still gets regular use. There are so many ways of preserving detailed in the book that I have continued to incorporate into my cooking and planning for winter.”

“Thomas Keller has been very influential for me and a whole generation of cooks. My mom, Denise, gave me this book on my birthday, and it has a handwritten note of encouragement from 2005. The recipes are simple, classic flavors put together with care and attention to detail. It provides a foundation of cooking from a recipe for vinaigrette to fish fumet to how to make a parchment-paper lid. From there, your creativity can take you where you want to go.”

/ j u ly 2 019

41

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Mexican Street Corn Salad In this class, you’ll learn how to safely and easily remove corn from the cob using a Bundt pan. You’ll also learn how to deep-fry churros at home.

Put corn to good use while it’s fresh from the field this summer with this light, flavorful riff on Mexican street corn.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., July 17, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

serves 4 to 6

4 1 ½ ½

¾ ¾ 3 12 1½

juice of 4 limes zest of 2 limes (reserve limes and slice into wheels or wedges) large garlic cloves, minced cup finely chopped red onion cup mayonnaise cup sour cream pinch cayenne pepper tsp chipotle chile powder cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro 4-oz cans diced mild green chiles ears fresh yellow corn, husks and silks removed cups crumbled cotija cheese kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation / In a large bowl, combine first 10 ingredients and refrigerate.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Preheat grill or grill pan over medium heat. Grill corn in batches, 4 to 5 inches above hot coals or in a grill pan, using tongs to turn frequently. Grill corn on all sides for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to the touch; remove kernels from the cob using a serrated or very sharp chef’s knife. Add corn and cotija cheese to chilled mixture and toss until thoroughly combined.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with lime wheels or wedges.

pair with: Reposado Tequila

PA I R IT!

To balance the sweetness and spiciness of this Mexican-inspired street corn salad, you want something bright, refreshing and light, like a classic Paloma cocktail. This reposado tequila is made in Jalisco, Mexico, by Mi Rancho, a company headquartered in Kansas City, Kansas, and features creamy and floral notes with a honey finish. To make a Paloma, in a mixing tin, combine 1½ ounces tequila, ½ ounce fresh lime juice and ½ ounce simple syrup with ice and shake well. Top with 3 to 4 ounces grapefruit soda and enjoy. -Jenn Tosatto miranchotequila.com

 Chef’s Tip: ALL EARS. Buying corn in the husks and refrigerating it will keep it sweet and moist. Plan to use the corn the same day you buy it or within two days for maximum flavor.

MAKE THE MEAL • Mexican Street Corn Salad • Pineapple and Cucumber Guacamole • Taco Trio: Fish Tacos, Chicken Tacos and Avocado Tacos • Churros

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FRiED

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

For many of us, fried chicken takes us to a place of heady nostalgia, forever intertwined with memories of hot summer days, Popsicles and picnics. It would be impossible to get through summer without longing for a pile of crispy, crunchy fried chicken, so when the feeling hits, go with it, but don’t reach for that take-out menu just yet. Making fried chicken from scratch may seem like a chore, but it’s actually kind of a lazy business, drawn out over days. A little work here and there, and suddenly, you’ve got the best 10-piece bucket of your life. All you need to get going is some basic knowledge, a few tools and a big dose of confidence in yourself. Can you nail the most quintessential American summer dish?

Of course you can.

Written by Shannon Weber photo by jennifer silverberg illustrations by katie lukes

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

CHiCKEN

1

Break it Down

Begin by placing your chicken breast-side up on a silicon cutting board. Gently pull one leg away from the body, slice through the skin and twist to remove leg joint from socket. Slice thigh away from the body; repeat on other side.

Breaking down a chicken isn’t difficult: All you need are the right tools and a little practice. Make sure you have a sharp chef’s knife on hand plus sharp kitchen scissors.

Find the joint between the drumstick and thigh and slice to separate. Set aside.

Turn chicken onto one side; pull wing away from the body and slice through joint to remove. Rotate chicken to the opposite side and repeat. Chop off wing tips.

Set chicken upright and grip backbone. Slice down and separate ribs from breast; using kitchen scissors, cut away ribs and backbone from breast plate.

With the breast-side down, slice breast plate in half; flip and slice each breast diagonally into two equal portions.

Straighten Up and Fry Right oil or fat Let’s face it: Frying blind can be nerve-wracking.

Equipping yourself with the proper tools (and a little frying know-how) means you’re way less likely to blow up your kitchen. Some people prefer to fry in a cast-iron skillet; if you want less spatter and a little more safety, opt for a deep cast-iron pot (like a Dutch oven) and invest in a spider strainer – a shallow wire basket with a long handle – to carefully lower and remove your meat from the hot oil.

smoke point

description

360°F

Likely used in the American South more than anywhere else, vegetable shortening has less saturated fat than butter. The downside? A relatively low smoke point doesn’t allow much room for error.

370°F

Another traditional Southern frying fat that gives chicken a crispy, flavorful finish, with a smoke point slightly higher than vegetable shortening.

400°F

Canola has a high smoke point and no flavor transfer, so chicken comes out crisp and shining. Canola oil is packed with Omega-3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids, although no one would call fried chicken a health food.

Grapeseed Oil

420°F

With a nice, safe smoke point and zero flavor, grapeseed oil is a solid choice for fried chicken. It’s easier to find in larger quantities than it used to be, but it can be on the pricier side of the spectrum.

Peanut Oil

450°F

Abundant in lauric acid and healthy fats, peanut oil has a high smoke point and no flavor transfer.

Vegetable Oil

450°F

The go-to workhorse oil, vegetable oil is an easy to find, affordable oil that fries chicken beautifully, with no residual flavor and a high smoke point.

Vegetable Shortening

lard

Canola Oil

Temperature can make or break fried chicken, so always monitor your oil temp with a thermometer; a candy thermometer does the job just as well as a deep-fry thermometer. You want to drop your room-temperature chicken in at 350°F and keep your oil hovering around 325°F when frying.

Choosing the right oil or fat is also just as critical to the success of your fried chicken. Look for an oil or fat with a high smoke point (the temperature at which an oil begins to burn) and minimal flavor transfer to get the best possible results.

Some restaurants use oils like rice bran or sunflower for their deep frying. These oils have a very high smoke point, but can be difficult to find in noncommercial quantities for a home cook, and can be less affordable than common oils like vegetable, peanut or canola.

/ j u ly 2 019

45

HEALTHY APPETITE / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / SWEET IDEAS / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

battle of the brines b Perhaps the single most important thing you can do for fried chicken

is brine it. Which type of brine you chose is up to you – some people land on a combination of both buttermilk and pickle – but the ultimate goal is to tenderize and add flavor from the inside.

6

Batter

In life, it’s what you find on

the inside that counts. With fried chicken, though, what’s on the outside matters just

Buttermilk Brine. Buttermilk

a Vinegar, Salt and

tenderizes meat slowly by using lactic acid and fermented milk enzymes to break down the fibers and protein structures within, while the calcium found in buttermilk speeds up the tenderizing process.

Adding spices to a buttermilk brine infuses the chicken with flavor that stays with it even after the frying process. A fermented milk brine isn’t unique to the U.S; Indian, Greek and Scandinavian cuisines often use spice-infused yogurt marinades to achieve maximum tenderness.

Acid (or Pickle) Brine. A

ingredients in your batter or

vinegar brine digs deep, cutting through the exterior structure of the chicken, uncoiling protein structures with acid and salt, removing moisture and flooding the gaps left behind with flavor. It works from deep within the meat, lightly curing the protein – think ceviche – without heat, resulting in tender, fall-apart portions.

breading determine whether

as much, if not more. The

your chicken finishes with an airy flake or shatters with a shardlike crackle. Can you make fried chicken batter with just standard all-purpose flour and some eggs? Sure, but you can make it more interesting by mixing things up.

1/ All-Purpose Flour.

A good starting point that yields a solid yet not overly crispy finish.

2/ Self-Rising Flour.

Bump up your brine any way you choose by simply adding in any combination of complementary herbs and spices to the mix.

• Rosemary • Lemon zest or juice • Black peppercorns • Cayenne pepper • Paprika • Hot sauce • Onion powder • Garlic powder

Chef Showdown Buttermilk and pickle brines both have their place in your fried chicken arsenal. Here, we asked two chefs to share what they like about each of the approaches.

46

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

• Garlic cloves • Oregano, fresh or dried • Coriander seed • Dill, fresh or dried • Thyme, fresh or dried • Bay leaves • Sage • Allspice berries

All-purpose flour with a little baking powder and salt, self-rising flour will give your chicken a fluffier crust than basic all-purpose flour.

3/ 1-to-1 Ratio Cornstarch and All-Purpose Flour.

Cornstarch cuts the protein and fiber of all-purpose flour, resulting in a delightfully crisp, crunchy crust.

Alternatively, using cake flour – a fine, low-protein flour used primarily for baking – will yield similar results.

4/ 1-to-1 Ratio Cornmeal and All-Purpose Flour.

The grit of cornmeal makes for a crunchy, grittier, slightly sweet exterior. Beware: That pleasant grittiness means debris in your oil, which can burn over time and may need to be strained out.

5/ Cornstarch.

Cornstarch contains no protein and no fiber, which makes for a crust that’s crisp, light and shatters as you bite into it.

6/ Potato Starch or Rice Flour. Often used in Asian cuisine, both potato starch and rice flour are ideal if you’re looking for a lighter, crisp batter similar to what you’d get from a cornstarch dredge.

Team pickle Brine

Team buttermilk Brine

Cassy Vires

Shanita Bryant

executive chef, winslow’s home in university city, missouri

chef-owner, magnolia’s by chef shanita catering

“Brining chicken is an absolute must in all applications, but especially fried chicken. A traditional buttermilk marinade will only tenderize and flavor the meat on the surface, but a salty brine draws out the moisture, allowing for a deeper penetration of flavor and a more thorough tenderizing process.”

“Buttermilk acts as a natural tenderizer for the chicken, and for me, an overnight soak in a shallow buttermilk bath is essential for tender and crispy skin. What is fried chicken with tough and rubbery skin?”

Matters 6

Once you choose your flour and/or starch combination, bring it to life by adding ingredients to suit your individual tastes.

Whole eggs will thicken batter and tone down the crunch factor because of the yolks’ fat content; egg whites add fat-free protein that gives batter structure and encourages crispness.

Alcohol in your batter – beer, bourbon or vodka are popular options – evaporates during the fry and creates layers of flaky crust, just like it does in a pie. Spices are optional in your batter; keep it simple and go with salt and freshly ground black pepper, or echo the spice profile you used in your brine.

Doing the Dip How you bread your chicken is entirely up to you: Some people like to mix wet and dry ingredients together to make a batter, while others choose to handle their wet and dry ingredients separately. A batter can be a quick and easy way to dredge chicken for frying; simply mix, dip and transfer to a wire rack to let excess batter drip away before frying. Alternating between wet and dry can give you a bit more control over your coating, though. Mix your flour or starch and spices in one bowl and your wet ingredients in another and dredge in dry, then wet, or do a dry-wet-dry approach before letting the coated chicken pieces rest a few minutes on a rack before frying.

Buttermilk-Brined Fried Chicken serves 4 Brine 2 Tbsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp dried thyme 1 Tbsp paprika 1 Tbsp garlic powder 1 Tbsp mustard seeds 1 Tbsp celery seed 1 qt buttermilk 2 bay leaves 2 Tbsp Tabasco sauce 2 lemons, halved 1 whole chicken, broken down into 8 to 10 pieces (steps on p. 45) Frying 2 cups cake flour 1 Tbsp garlic powder 1 Tbsp onion powder 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper kosher salt, to taste 3 qts vegetable or peanut oil

tButtermilk-brined

chicken is a Southern classic.

This recipe uses a litany of spices and herbs you should already have in your pantry, so putting things together is a snap. Buttermilk also saves you from having to mix up wet ingredients for the dredge: Simply drain excess buttermilk off from the brine and you’re good to go.

/ preparation – brine / In a small bowl, mix together first 6 ingredients. In a high-sided casserole dish, add buttermilk; whisk in spices and add bay leaves and Tabasco sauce. Squeeze in lemon juice and add spent lemon halves to buttermilk mixture; submerge chicken pieces, coating on all sides. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. / preparation – frying / Remove chicken from refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before frying to take the chill off. Set a metal rack over a lipped baking sheet. In a wide, shallow baking dish, whisk together cake flour, garlic powder, onion powder and black pepper until blended. Remove chicken pieces from brine, one at a time, allowing excess batter to drip off. Dredge in flour mixture, pressing chicken in with your hands and making sure meat is evenly coated; transfer to prepared wire rack.

Repeat with remaining chicken and let rest for 30 minutes.

In a deep cast-iron Dutch oven, add enough oil to coat the bottom with 2 to 3 inches. Heat oil until it registers 350°F on a candy thermometer. Fry chicken in batches, without crowding. Temperature will drop as you add chicken: keep oil hovering around 325°F during the frying, bringing temperature back up to 350°F before adding the next batch. Let cook, turning once with tongs, until chicken is a deep golden brown and reaches an internal temperature of 155°F. Using a spider strainer, remove chicken to a metal rack and cover with paper towels to drain, sprinkling with salt to finish. Serve warm. / j u ly 2 019

47

PROMOTION PROMOTION

Where to stay

A

nature

EdiTEd By BETHany cHriSTo

nswer the call of the wild this summer. Missouri is bursting with spots for outdoor fun – river floats, horseback and hiking trails, golf courses, swimming oases – as well as spots to escape into nature for relaxation and meditation.

Spend a day on the Lake of the Ozarks or any of the many rivers, then spend your night at a lakefront resort or a more rustic campsite. Make sure to stop by nearby attractions including a 64-year-old burger joint, root beer float and ice cream favorite, best-selling winery, arcade brewery and meat market.

[q u i E T r E S p i T E ]

ruSSo’S rESorT & laKEfronT SToragE

For those looking for a relaxing family get-together or friend reunion at the Lake of the Ozarks, Russo’s Resort & Lakefront Storage can fit groups of all sizes away from the crowds. Located in a quiet section at the 32 mile marker on the Osage arm, Russo’s is a secluded family resort complete with scenic lakefront apartment rentals, a private boat ramp and boat storage right on the water. 573.873.0300

Melvin Brewing’s Eureka brewpub is fun for the kids – with arcade games, foosball and kung fu movies – but it’s more fun for the adults, with its roster of award-winning IPAs and Asian-inspired pub fare. melvinbrewing. com/locate/eurekabrewpub

%PG

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

SmiTHVillE laKE

Offering two campgrounds, Smithville Lake in Clay County is scenic and made for adventure. Choose your camping experience from rustic, improved or equestrian sites. Rent a pontoon or kayak, play a round of golf or disc golf, explore 80 miles of trails, relax at the beaches and visit the Nature Center. Don’t forget the s’mores. smithville-lake.com, visitclaymo.com

[ l a K E S i d E r E l axaT i o n ]

rEd oaK rESorT & rV parK

After a fun day at the Lake of the Ozarks, relax at any of Red Oak Resort & RV Park’s two- and three-bedroom condos, A-frame cabins, motel units and RV sites – plus there is a tennis court, a swimming pool, and hall and pavilion facilities for any event. redoakresortrvpark.com

nearby must-try food & drink MELVIN BREWING

48

[ fa m i ly c a m p i n g ]

DAIR AIRY ISLE & GRILL

Know wn as “The Root er Float Beer Flo Capital of ouri,” this Steelville Misso dmark offers landm d-to-order burgers grilled-t and saandwiches. The ice creeam is a must-try, her on a cone or wheth in a float, flo concrete, milkshake or sundae. milksh dairyisle.com

RIch'S fAMouS BuRGERS

The tag line at this Steelville institution says it all: “stackin’ ’em high since 1955.” Build your own cooked-to-order Angus burger, or try any of the loaded specialities, like the Jam Burger with bacon, peanut butter and hot pepper-strawberry jam. richsfamousburgers.com

Where to PL ay

[o u T d o o r E S c a p E S ]

[ B E ac H r E T r E aT ]

Experience the best of what the Missouri Ozarks has to offer at Bass’ River Resort. Located in Steelville, Missouri, the outdoor escape is just an hour-and-a-half drive from St. Louis. Outdoor enthusiasts enjoy floating the three rivers – Courtois, Huzzah and Meramec. RV and tent camping or lodging are available, along with guided trail rides, a swimming pool, trail access and so much more. bassresort.com

Fugitive Beach in Rolla is more than just a swimming hole – there are beautiful sandy beaches, waterslides, cliff jumps, sand volleyball, a kiddie play area and more. Open every day, you can rent pavilions, cabanas, picnic tables, charcoal grills, life jackets, flotation devices and beach chairs. Food and drinks (alcoholic and nonalcoholic) are available at the nearby Beach Bar & Grill. fugitivebeach.com

fugiTiVE BEacH

BaSS' riVEr rESorT

[ n o r T H Kc ]

SmiTHVillE laKE

16311 DD Highway Smithville, MO 64089 [c E n T r a l m o]

BaSS’ riVEr rESorT 204 Butts Road Steelville, MO 65565

fugiTiVE BEacH

16875 County Road 5285 Rolla, MO 65401

[ f loaT o n ]

HuZZaH VallEy rESorT

Get the most out of your float with Huzzah Valley Resort. Servicing the Huzzah, Courtois and Meramec rivers, Huzzah Valley’s range of watercrafts includes tubes, rafts, canoes and kayaks. And with 2½ half miles of riverfront camping, you’ll find an ideal place to rest up after your trip downstream. All campsites have picnic tables, a fire ring and a grill, and there are additional lodging units for noncampers. huzzahvalley.com

HuZZaH VallEy rESorT 970 E. Highway 8 Steelville, MO 65565

missouri

PROMOTION PROMOTION

[ l a K E o f T H E oZ a r K S ]

rEd oaK rESorT & rV parK ST. JAMES WINERY

This is Missouri’s largest and best-selling winery, with selections for every palate. Head next door for food and brews at Public House Brewing Co., and enjoy the family- and pet-friendly patio. stjameswinery.com

KENRIcK’S MEATS & cATERING Kenrick’s Meats & Catering’s selection includes more than 80 varieties of bratwurst, 40-plus varieties of burgers and 60 types of meat packages. Try John’s Camping Pack with all the food you’ll need to camp out. kenricks.com

524 Recreation Row Camdenton, MO 65020

ruSSo’S rESorT & laKEfronT SToragE 2399 Twin Rivers Point Camdenton, MO 65020

foR MoRE ADVENTuRE: mdc.mo.gov/places-go

discover nature anywhere / j u ly 2 019

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/ j a n u a ry 2 0 1 9

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Features 53 float on Explore the natural beauty and summery eats along seven of Missouri’s most popular rivers for float trips.

61 yeastie boys In Cape Girardeau, Missouri, Ebb and Flow Fermentations uses historic and wild yeast strains to produce an ever-changing lineup of unique beers.

66 hog wild From spicy to smoky to sweet, dig into 55 of our favorite pulled pork sandwiches.

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4600 PARIS RD. #102 COLUMBIA,MO

2023 S. Glenstone Springfield, MO 65804 417-883-4066 www.brownderby.com

ear us out: When it comes to the best float trips in the U.S., Missourians really have it made. While you can float on a river anywhere, it usually requires a long drive, making it far less a part of most states’ culture. Yet in Missouri, with more than 30 rivers ideal for canoeing, tubing or rafting, you’re never too far from a day on the river. Spending a weekend float-tripping with a bedroll and tent in tow has its perks, but a day trip delivers the same joy with the added benefit of sleeping in your own bed. Choose an eight- or 10-mile stretch, which should be fairly easy to knock out in four or five hours, and take advantage of what the state has to offer. Here, we’ve created a guide to the best food and drinks to pack and where to stop for sights and sustenance along seven of Missouri’s most popular rivers for float trips.

Written by Tessa Cooper / Illustrations by Rob Donnelly / j u ly 2 019

53

 Current River ouri River Miss

Os

r

e Rive ag

 Niangua River According to the Missouri Department of Conservation, the Niangua River ranks as one of the best fishing streams in Missouri. However, those who prefer floating to fishing typically traverse the river’s upper sections. This river gets pretty crowded on hot summer days, so if you get the chance to go on a weekday, seize the opportunity. Most of the river below Highway 32 is generally pretty floatable, except during times of high water.

Wactivities:

Fishing, canoeing, rafting, kayaking or tubing

Pit Stops:

1 / Take in a morning hike before an afternoon on the

Niangua River at Ha Ha Tonka State Park in Camdenton, Missouri. Picnic near the 20th-century castle ruins overlooking the rolling Ozark Mountains.

2 / Swiss Inn Drive In has been a longstanding institution in Lebanon, Missouri. Since 1967, the restaurant has been dishing out malts, shakes, banana splits, fish sandwiches, corned beef, burgers and curly fries.

3 / Near Camdenton, Missouri, you’ll find Larry’s on the Lake. From the water, you'll spot this floating bar and grill from a mile away, thanks to its kitschy Larrywood sign in the hills. This joint serves unexpected appetizers like green beans with ranch dip and entrées like the Larry Hawaiian sandwich, which features grilled chicken breast, Provolone cheese, Canadian bacon and grilled pineapple on a Kaiser roll.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

The Big Piney River is the largest tributary of the Gasconade River. Don’t forget to pack your angling gear – this is a perfect fishing stream, especially in its upper and middle sections. Along the route, you'll pass scenic limestone bluffs dense with pines, and you just might spot a turkey and other wildlife.

Wactivities:

Fishing, canoeing, tubing, rafting and kayaking

Region: South Central Missouri Pit Stops:

1 / Stop by Piney River Brewing Co.’s taproom in Bucyrus, Missouri, where you can sample the house craft beers. And if you visit over the weekend, you’re in luck: The brewery serves pizza to hungry crowds on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

2 / For Dunky’s Ice Cream and Diner owner Gary Duncan, making ice cream started out as a way to pass the time during retirement. In 2017, he and his wife, Jackie, opened their ice-cream parlor in Licking, Missouri, and they’ve gone from selling just desserts to a full-scale diner with hearty fried catfish fillets, pork chops and more.

3 / If you’re traveling from the north, a

stop in St. Roberts, Missouri, for grub is your best bet. Before swinging by Route 66 Canoe Rental, fill up at Sweetwater Bar-B-Que for its famous pulled pork, brisket, chicken, spicy sausage and ribs.

Wactivities:

Floating, rafting or canoeing

Region: Southern Missouri Pit Stops:

1 / As its name implies,

Jolly Cone in Van Buren, Missouri, offers ice-cream classics like sundaes, dipped cones and soft serve in waffle cones. The shop doesn’t disappoint on savory fare either: Choose from diner classics like fried chicken sandwiches or chili dogs and fried pickle spears, or chow down on the bestselling original Jolly Burger, an old-fashioned sloppy Joe.

2 / A day on the river and freshwater fish go hand-inhand. The Blue Heron in Van Buren, Missouri, serves just that, including favorites like fried or grilled catfish, as well as fruits of the sea like salmon and shrimp.

3 / If you’re craving a sit-down meal after a relaxing day on the river, Creekside Grill in Echo Bluff State Park is a good bet. Here, candied Missouri walnuts and blackberry vinaigrette adorn salads, and local mushrooms from Timber Farms appear in dishes like the boneless chuck pot roast and mushroom strudel.

larry's on the lake and jolly cone by aaron ottis; jacks fork river by david stonner; recipes by madison sanders

Region: Central Missouri

 Big Piney River

Spanning 184 miles, the Current River has two ideal drop-off points with solid food options: Van Buren and Eminence, Missouri. The river runs deep throughout, so you can confidently load a heavy cooler in your float or raft along with a friend without having to worry about scraping the river’s bottom. Steer clear from floating on sections below Big Spring due to motorboats.

float on / missouri

LUNCH

BREAK

With limited time to explore the river on a day trip, avoid the hassle that comes with stopping for every meal by packing these portable

Vegetable-Orzo Pasta Salad

recipes by chef Kelly Spencer of The Social Affair Catering & Event Design in St. Louis. We’ve

With Goat Cheese

asked Spencer to offer tips on how to pack each meal for optimum freshness, and you can even keep it all chilled in an inflatable floating cooler.

 jacks Fork River The Jacks Fork River is diverse: One moment you could be gliding through deep waters, and the next your canoe can get a little too close to the bottom, which is quite shallow in some stretches. For this reason, it’s important to check water levels through an app like RiverApp before heading out for the day. Avoid traveling in a heavy canoe above Alley Spring, unless there's recently been substantial rainfall.

BPT: Candied Bacon, Pimento Cheese and Beefsteak Tomato Sandwiches

Wactivities:

Canoeing, kayaking, rafting or tubing

Region: Southeast Missouri Pit Stops:

1 / The Alley Spring Mill in Eminence, Missouri, is an iconic red structure that dates back to 1894. Learn more about the mill's history by taking a free tour, which is available by request.

2 / A visit to Ice Ice Macie’s in Eminence is the

quickest way to curb a shaved ice craving after floating on the Jacks Fork River. The beloved shaved ice stand is only open during summer months, offering sweets like strawberry shaved ice with Nerds.

3 / The Dairy Shack in Eminence offers just what the name promises – floats, shakes and sundaes galore. If you need something to pad your inevitable sugar crash, order a specialty sandwich, like the Root Wad, a saucy pulled pork sandwich topped with housemade coleslaw.

Citrus-Kale Salad

n FIND THE RECIPES ON P. 58.

float on / missouri

 Huzzah Creek ouri River Miss



Meramec River

 

With 12 scenic routes to choose from, the Huzzah Creek certainly lives up to its exclamatory name. Pronounced hoo-zah, the creek has a few more twists and turns than most in the state, making it an exciting challenge. Before attempting to float from upstream near Highway 8 close to Steelville, be sure to check water levels for safety.

During wetter seasons, the current can run rapidly.

Wactivities:

Fishing, canoeing, kayaking, rafting or tubing

 Gasconade River Thanks to its crooked path, protruding boulders and occasional rapids, the Gasconade River is ideal for adventurers craving a small yet safe challenge. The Gasconade has less gradient than some Ozark rivers, but beware of fast sections near the lower end. It’s also rumored to be less crowded than other rivers, and many people you’ll see floating or fishing will probably be locals.

Region: Eastern Missouri Pit Stops:

Fishing, canoeing, kayaking, rafting or tubing

Region: Southeast Missouri

FPO

Fishing, canoeing, rafting, kayaking or tubing

Region: SOUTH Central Missouri Pit Stops:

1 / The Burger Stand in Richland, Missouri, has been

dishing out freshly ground beef burgers and shakes for more than 50 years. This stand provides quick yet filling meals like country fried steak. Don’t leave without grabbing a classic dipped cone to-go.

2 / For a relaxed atmosphere with the best summer comfort foods, look no further than Daugherty’s Pub & Grub in Richland. Order some mozzarella sticks or deep fried green beans to curb your hunger until the kitchen finishes up your patty melt.

3 / End your day and kick off a never-ending summer night by sipping wine at Cellar 66 in Waynesville, Missouri. The menu boasts appetizers like vegetarian Asian dumplings with sesame seed dressing as well as classic sandwiches like a tuna wrap or a pesto panini.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

exploring Onondaga Cave near the confluence of Huzzah Creek and the Meramec River, grab dinner at Missouri Hick Bar-B-Que in Cuba, Missouri.

The joint rubs all its meat with a top-secret signature rub and smokes it for a full 12 hours.

3 / Fill up on classic summer food like hot dogs and kettle chips at Dairy Isle & Grill in Steelville.

However, it’s Dairy Isle’s sundaes, concretes, malts and shakes that make this destination a sure bet.

Pit Stops:

1 / A trip to Black River Ice Cream Parlor in Lesterville, Missouri, has been a float-trip tradition for generations. The shop’s season mirrors prime float-tripping months, as it’s only open April through September. Black River Ice Cream Parlor dishes up soft serve and more than 20 flavors of shaved ice.

2 / Load up on enough carbs and calories to keep you full

on the river at RioRata in Lesterville. Think quesadillas stuffed with cheese and shrimp, or healthier yet equally filling alternatives like a grilled chicken salad with avocado and chipotle ranch.

3 / End your day at Lenny’s in Lesterville: The

restaurant serves specialty pizzas like chicken fajita with ranch dressing and hearty hot sandwiches, including a Philly cheesesteak or grilled three-cheese with bacon.

rich's famous burgers and dairy isle & grill by aimee whitmire; gasconade river courtesy the gasconade river resort

2 / After an afternoon

Wactivities:

Thanks to its low level of difficulty, floating the Black River makes for a relaxing lazy Saturday. The river’s upper section, starting near Lesterville, is exceptionally clear and offers plenty of feeder springs, meaning you’re almost guaranteed to catch a few smallmouth bass. Below Clearwater Lake, the river slows, so account for extra time to finish your trip.

Wactivities:

1 / Bite into a juicy burger at

Rich's Famous Burgers in Steelville, Missouri.

The joint is known for its made-fromscratch burgers, but they've also added new favorites to the menu, like white Cheddar cheese curds.

 Black River

Respect Missouri’s law that prohibits glass near waterways and load your cooler with these float-trip-friendly canned brews.

Pale lager and housemade grapefruit soda come together to create Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s Grapefruit Radler. This beer is perfect for when you want the best of both worlds, because it's both a little sweet and slightly bitter.

For a Belgian-style witbier, reach for Rockwell Beer Co.’s Passing Clouds. This bright beverage mixes citrusy American hops and spicy German hops. To complete the flavor profile, Rockwell also adds coriander, Curaçao orange peel and grains of paradise.

Two words describe Free State Brewing Co.’s Free State Lager: clean and crisp. This easyto-drink lager is made with German and American malts and citrusy Comet and German Saphir hops.

Schlafly Beer’s Raspberry Hefeweizen is a not-too-sweet take on a fruit beer. Made with real raspberries during primary fermentation, this brew looks and smells just as good as it tastes with a citrusy aroma and pink hue.

Old Bakery Beer Co.’s Basil Pale Ale is a farm-to-can brew that’s only available July through September, so take advantage while you can.

If you’re craving a bright, sour beer, look no further: Mother's Brewing Co.’s Paloma Gose punches up the classic Gose profile with grapefruit, agave nectar and lime peel for an eye-opening beer perfect for a day on the river.

Logboat Brewing Co.’s Bobber is an easy-drinking unfiltered lager brewed with Noble Hops, which provide just a hint of bitterness. Crisp and clean with floral notes, Bobber is ideal for drinking on the water.

Torn Label Brewing Co.’s Monk & Honey is a Belgian-inspired ale made with local honey, barley and Belgian yeast.

It perfectly mixes light floral, sweet, spicy and earthy notes.

An easy day on the river calls for an easy-drinking beer like Piney River Brewing Co.’s Float Trip Ale. The blonde ale won Gold in the Best American Wheat Beer category at the 2017 U.S. Open Beer Championship.

If you’re feeling extra fancy, try one of these canned cocktails on the river.

Boulevard Brewing Co.’s Fling Craft Cocktails will make all your gluten-free beverage dreams come true. Choose between four flavors: blood orange-vodka-soda, cucumber-lime gin and tonic, Mai Tai and Margarita.

Skip packing the cocktail supplies. With 1220 Artisan Spirits Gin and Tonic, you can enjoy a refreshing cocktail in a convenient can. Other 1220 canned cocktails include the Moscow mule, a lavender vodka lemonade, Aviation and a gin-hibiscus-cucumber.

In May, St. Louis-based distillery StilL 630 debuted its first canned cocktail, Bee’s Knees, made with its award-winning Volstead’s Folly American Gin, honey, lemon, ginger and seltzer.

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float on / missouri

Float-Trip Checklist OK, you’ve got your route and vessel picked out and your food and booze packed – but those aren’t the only items you’ll need for a successful float trip. Starting with the essentials and ending with some indulgent extras, here’s

Continued from p. 55

RECIPES to PACK

our guide to the best of the rest:

 Drinking Water.

Keep hydrated in the hot summer sun with ample H2O.

 Sunscreen and

sunglasses. Protect your skin

from harsh rays with plenty of sunscreen, sunglasses and/or UV protection clothing or swimwear.

 Footwear. Most water shoes or

river sandals aren’t glamorous, but you’ll be

glad to have them to protect your skin against any sharp rocks you may encounter on shallow river bottoms.

 Dry Bag. The idea behind dry bags is

in the name: They keep valuables, like your

cell-phone, first-aid kit, camera, cash, state ID, etc., dry – even if you capsize.

 Cooler. Whetheryouoptforafloating

inflatable cooler or a more durable plastic floating design, having a stocked and iced

up cooler is a must. Be sure to pack bungee cords, too, to ensure coolers are secured to canoes and kayaks.

 Dry Clothing. Nobody wants

to ride home in wet clothes after a fun day on the river, so leave a spare outfit in your car.

Packing a few spare towels never hurts, either.

 Waterproof Portable

Speaker. Once your route is planned, the cooler is packed and you’re outfitted for the day, the only thing missing for a perfect float trip are tunes to pass the time.

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Vegetable-Orzo Pasta Salad with Goat Cheese

Serves 10

Citrus-Kale Salad

Serves 8 4 1½ 1½ 1½ 1 to 2 ½ ½

cups fresh kale, thinly sliced into ribbons cups fresh Meyer lemon juice cups golden raisins cups chopped or slivered toasted almonds navel oranges, cut into segments cup olive oil cup grated ricotta salata kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation / In a large bowl, add all ingredients except Basil-Rosemary Vinaigrette 3 garlic cloves, roasted Roast whole with ricotta salata. Massage kale to ensure that everything is 1½ Tbsp fresh lemon juice the veggies for well mixed. Add ricotta salata and toss lightly. Season with 1½ Tbsp red wine vinegar your pasta salad salt and pepper to taste. Divide servings into separate 1½ Tbsp honey to save time! plastic Mason jars with lids. ½ Tbsp Dijon mustard 3 Tbsp finely chopped fresh basil ½ Tbsp fresh rosemary ½ cup olive oil BPT: Candied Bacon, Pimento Cheese kosher salt and freshly ground black and Beefsteak Tomato Sandwiches pepper, to taste

Yields 8 sandwiches Pasta Salad 1 lb orzo Candied Bacon 1 medium zucchini, sliced into 1-inch pieces 8 slices thick-cut bacon 1 medium yellow summer squash, sliced into ½ cup tightly packaged brown sugar 1-inch pieces freshly ground black pepper 1 eggplant, sliced into 1-inch pieces 3 bell peppers (red, yellow and green), sliced Pimento Cheese (Yields 8 ounces) into 1-inch pieces 1 cup softened cream cheese 2 cups cherry tomatoes ¾ cup sour cream 1 Vidalia onion, sliced into 1-inch pieces 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 Tbsp fresh thyme or basil 1 Tbsp granulated sugar kosher salt and freshly ground black 1 tsp Sriracha pepper, to taste 1 Tbsp adobo sauce basil-rosemary vinaigrette (recipe below) ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 16 oz roughly chopped fresh baby spinach ¼ tsp kosher salt 8 oz crumbled goat cheese 1 cup diced roasted red peppers 1¼ lb sharp Cheddar cheese, grated / preparation – basil-rosemary vinaigrette / assembly In a large bowl, add all ingredients and season with pimento cheese (recipe below) salt and pepper to taste. Using an immersion blender, 1 loaf ciabatta, toasted and cut into 16 slices blend until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve. candied bacon (recipe below) / preparation – pasta salad / Preheat oven to 450°F. Cook orzo according to package directions until al dente, reserving 1 quart of pasta water.

In a large bowl, toss next 7 ingredients until combined and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer mixture to a sheet pan and roast for 12 to 15 minutes or until vegetables are caramelized. In the same large bowl you tossed the vegetables in, toss cooked orzo with roasted vegetables to combine.

Slowly add basil-rosemary vinaigrette and reserved pasta water, just a little at a time, until pasta salad is nicely coated. Discard any remaining pasta water.

Add spinach to warm salad to wilt. / assembly / Serve pasta salad in individual Chinese take-out boxes; to prevent the boxes from getting wet in the cooler, protect them in an insulated bag or a plastic bag. Alternatively, you can serve the salad in individual plastic Mason jars.

3 beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 16 thin slices

/ preparation – candied bacon / Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil.

Arrange bacon on sheet pan in a single layer and coat with brown sugar, patting down into meat. Sprinkle with black pepper and bake until crisp, about 18 to 20 minutes.

Transfer bacon to a wire rack to cool. Set aside. / preparation – pimento cheese / In a large bowl, add softened cream cheese. Using a hand mixer, blend cream cheese until smooth. Add all remaining ingredients except Cheddar cheese and blend until well combined. Fold in shredded Cheddar cheese and stir using a spatula. For a smoother consistency, combine Cheddar cheese using a hand mixer for a few seconds. / assembly / Spread pimento cheese over 8 slices of ciabatta and top each with 1 slice of candied bacon and 1 tomato slice. Top with remaining ciabatta slices. Wrap in plastic wrap and parchment paper.

[PROMOTION]

in good taste

PROMOTION

[FROM SWEET TO SPICY] BELL PEPPER

Native to Central and South America, bell peppers come in several vibrant colors including green, red, orange, yellow and sometimes purple. With a thick and crunchy flesh, bell peppers can be eaten raw or cooked. To determine if the pepper will be sweet in nature or have a bitter flavor, inspect the lobes on the bottom of the pepper. Peppers with four lobes tend to be sweeter and perfect for a chopped salad.

Peppers with three lobes have fewer seeds and tend to be bitter — making them an excellent choice for enhancing a meal.

PRESENTED BY

PICK A PEPPER

and add flavor, vitamins to your meal SPONSORED CONTENT BY JENNIFER MASON, BRAND AVE. STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING WRITER

From the ubiquitous sweet bell peppers to the super-spicy habanero, peppers are the perfect healthy addition to any meal. While you can find them year-round in your grocery store, late summer is peak season for peppers in North America.

In addition to clearing out the sinuses, the spicier varieties, like jalapenos, contain a compound called capsaicin, which gives them their kick but may also, counterintuitively, aid digestion and prevent stomach ulcers. “When the peppers contain high levels of calcium, there is the possibility of the digestive system working a little bit better,” says Adetunji T. Toriola, Washington University assistant professorofsurgeryatSitemanCancerCenter.

If you can’t stand the heat, bell peppers are a sweeter, non-spicy option. Bell peppers are

fat and cholesterol-free and low in calories.

Most peppers are high in vitamin C, and just one bell pepper contains over 100 percent of your daily recommended amount of the antioxidant, which helps slow down or prevent cell damage. “During the process of renewal, there are opportunities for mistakes to occur, so the antioxidants help keep things in check,” Toriola says. “They help to reduce the degree of damage that occurs as a result of constant renewal.”

They’re also full of other antioxidants, includinglycopene,whichgivesredbellpeppers their bright color. Toriola points out that with each stage of ripeness the bell pepper not only produces different colors but different levels of antioxidants. They can also be a good source of vitamin B6, adequate intake of which may

Crockpot Mediterranean-Inspired Stuffed Peppers 1lb 6 1 2½ 1

ground turkey bell peppers cup pearl couscous, dry tablespoon olive oil can (15 oz) diced tomatoes, low sodium ½ yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced

be associated with a lowered risk of colorectal cancer, and vitamin A, which is essential for good eyesight.

Minerals abound in peppers. For example, iron in peppers helps cell growth. In addition, magnesium regulates blood sugar levels and blood pressure, and phosphorus helps keep bones healthy. You may even be surprised to learn that the average green bell pepper contains 2 grams of dietary fiber.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

YIELDS | 6

2 1 1 ½ ¾ 1

cups spinach, chopped tablespoon turmeric teaspoon cumin teaspoon paprika teaspoon pepper cup parmesan cheese, shredded 3 cups water

| preparation | Heat medium sauté pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Dice onion and garlic PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER and add to pan. Cook and stir occasionally until onions are translucent. Remove when cooked. Measure and mix spices together (turmeric, cumin, paprika, pepper). In the same pan, add another tablespoon of olive oil and add turkey. Season with above seasoning blend. Add onion and garlic mixture from step one. Cook turkey thoroughly then remove from pan and place into a large bowl. Sautee spinach over medium heat until wilted. Add to large bowl with turkey mixture. Add ½ can diced tomatoes to turkey mixture. Add ½ cup of cheese to the turkey mixture. Cook couscous. Bring 1 cup water to a boil then add couscous, ½ tablespoon olive oil and pepper as desired. Once cooked, add to turkey mixture. Cut tops off tops of peppers and remove seeds and ribs from inside. Pour liquid from canned tomatoes into bottom of crock pot. Place all peppers in crock pot. Fill peppers with turkey mixture. Pour remaining tomatoes and stock over peppers and into the bottom of the crock pot. Cook on high for 3-4 hours or low for 5-6 hours. Peppers should be tender when done. If you would rather use the oven, preheat to 350 degrees. Then, place peppers in an 11inch oven dish, add ¼ cup water or stock to bottom of pan and bake 45-50 minutes. When close to serving peppers, sprinkle remaining cheese over the top and let melt. Enjoy!

NUTRITION INFORMATION: (1 PEPPER) 375 CALORIES, 17G FAT, 632MG SODIUM, 31G CARBOHYDRATE, 6G FIBER, 26G PROTEIN

Named after their obvious shape, the banana pepper contains significant amounts of vitamin A, C and B6. As a low-calorie, delicious pepper full of nutrients, the banana pepper is considered a staple in its place of origin — South America. It’s a mild, mediumsized pepper with a sweet and tangy taste.

Alternatively called a yellow wax pepper, the sweet flavor is a crowd favorite for sandwiches, Greek salads, pizza, pickled or stuffed dishes.

PIMENTO PEPPER

Adetunji T. Toriola

Washington University assistant professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center

BANANA PEPPER

Pimento peppers are red, sweet peppers that are about 2 to 3 inches wide and 3 to 4 inches long. Widely known as the cherry pepper, some say it’s shaped more like a heart. They are very mild and sweeter in taste than a bell pepper.

A favorite ingredient among dinner party appetizers, pimentos often show up diced in a cheese spread or stuffed with rice.

JALAPENO PEPPER Originated from Mexico, the jalapeno pepper is the most common of the chili peppers. Now grown throughout the world, capsaicin is the active component in chili peppers that gives them the popular flavor providing the perfect amount of kick without sending you on a search for water.

Look for jalapeno peppers that are medium in size, bright green and firm.

CAYENNE CHILI PEPPER As one of the most popular peppers used in the Western hemisphere, the pepper originates from the city of Cayenne in French Guinea.

It is rich in vitamins A and C and provides sufficient levels of minerals. Used primarily as a dried spice, it is made by drying and grinding the peppers or pulping and baking them into cakes, which are then ground to produce the spice.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY ISTOCK IMAGES

/ j u ly 2 019

59

Join us in Salute to Craft Beer Week!

Thursday Aug 1st at 4:00 We will release Singular Day IPA 3.0 a West Coast IPA plus it is a keep the glass event!

Sweet BBQ Chicken

MON & TUES: CLOSED • WED & THURS: 3PM - 10PM FRI & SAT: 11AM - 11PM • SUNDAY: 11AM - 5PM

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

In Cape Girardeau, Missouri, Ebb and Flow Fermentations uses historic and wild yeast strains to produce an ever-changing lineup of unique beers.

At Custom Foodscaping, Matt Lebon designs and installs edible landscapes of all sizes for restaurants, schools and even suburban backyards.

Written by Liz Miller

Photography by Judd Demaline

Written by Heather Riske Photography by Gregg Goldman

/ j u ly 2 019

61

W

hen DeWayne Schaaf thinks about going to the post office, he has to laugh. He feels a little silly – rather than letters to friends, he’s mailing out stacks and stacks of envelopes filled with 15-millimeter centrifuge tubes. Yet these test tubes hold more than run-of-the-mill science experiments.

Today, he might be shipping a new wild yeast capture from his backyard down to a lab in Nashville, Tennessee; tomorrow, he’ll send his own Mud King yeast blend to a brewer in Tasmania.

Strange Magic Love wild or sour beers? You can thank the process of mixed fermentation, which refers to beers fermented with a mix of multiple yeasts and bacteria. Here, we break down a few popular yeasts and bacteria used in brewing.

You might know Saccharomyces as brewer’s yeast or baker’s yeast. Latin for “sugar fungus,” this genus of yeast metabolizes sugars to produce carbon dioxide and alcohol, essential to creating both beer and leavened bread.

At Ebb and Flow Fermentations, the brewery he launched in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, this year, Schaaf is using wild and historic yeast blends to produce beers unlike anything else in the region. “I kind of wanted the idea of a standard brewery being to the wayside,” he says. “It’s more just about the collection of fermentations. I wanted to break the perception of what it is for a lot of people.”

Commonly known as “Brett,” Brettanomyces is a genus of wild yeast that is often considered a contaminant in beer and wine, but is used in traditional farmhouse styles like Belgian lambics, saisons and Flanders red ales to impart flavors from floral, earthy and fruity to barnyard and “horse blanket.” Over the past few years, craft brewers – especially those aging in oak barrels – have embraced Brett, which works slowly, to add complexity to a range of styles.

So when his friends jokingly refer to him as a mad scientist, they’re only half kidding.

Also used to ferment yogurt, kimchi and sauerkraut, Lactobacillus is a type of bacteria that eats up the sugar in wort and produces lactic acid, which lowers the pH and creates a clean, sour taste. Lactobacillus works quickly, and adds the characteristic tangy, sour flavor to styles like German Berliner weisses and Goses.

A self-taught cook, Schaaf started at Celebrations Restaurant in Cape Girardeau in 1998. He worked as the restaurant’s executive chef for 20 years before purchasing it from owners James and Pat Allen in January 2018. Upon taking over Celebrations, Schaaf – a longtime homebrewer – decided the time was right to fulfill his dream of opening a brewery. He originally opened Ebb and Flow Fermentations, located just a few blocks away from Celebrations, as a craft-beer bar last fall before debuting the brewery’s first house beers this March.

Although he grew up in Ste. Genevieve, where Stag and Milwaukee’s Best were the popular pours, Schaaf says European styles caught his attention in his early 20s. Around the time he moved to Cape, he started homebrewing on a small system his wife gifted him for Christmas, making primarily English- and German-style beers. Soon, that dovetailed into Belgian-inspired beers, and he began exploring mixed-fermentation styles. He joined Milk the Funk, a Facebook group where brewers – both professional and hobbyist – from around the world share knowledge and experiments, primarily related to alternative yeast and bacteria fermentation. Within two to three years, his entire perception of beer changed.

Through the group, Schaaf was introduced to kveik, a family of yeasts that originated in Norway and are known for having a much higher heat tolerance and quicker fermentation time than other brewing yeasts. He began learning as much as he could about the yeasts and experimenting with them, documenting his findings on his blog, Kveik World Order. “[Kveik] has probably been the hottest topic in mixed fermentation in these groups to the point where a lot of the old-school guys are grumpy about it,” Schaaf says with a laugh. “It’s not Brett or lactobacillus; lately it’s been kveik. I think it’s really getting ready to take off in the brewing world just because of the temp control.”

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

Like lacto, Pediococcus is a lactic acid-producing bacteria, but also creates other funky and sour flavors. It’s often combined with Brett and found in traditional styles like lambic and gueuze.

Somewhat of the new kid on the block, Kveik is a centuries-old Norwegian yeast that only recently began making a comeback in the brewing world.

Brewers love it for its high heat tolerance (it can produce similar flavor profiles at wildly different temperatures), quicker fermentation time and low pitching rate, which means you can use a smaller amount of the yeast to inoculate the cooled wort.

LEFT TO RIGHT: DeWayne Schaaf, Jaime Zarate Sada and Brandon Simmons

In addition to collecting traditional kveik yeast strains, Schaaf also began producing his own wild yeast blends. Based on some knowledge gleaned from YouTube videos, he built a small home lab with a dozen or so centrifuge tubes, a few pour plates and a burner.

To build a new blend, for instance, he’d start by capturing some wild yeast off of a dandelion on the edge of his driveway or a bottle of Spanish natural wine. He’d then transfer the wild capture into a few 50-milliliter tubes filled with wort (the sugary liquid that ferments into beer), close the tube and shake it. Every five to seven hours, he’d give the tube a light rustle to check for signs of activity, like CO2 bubbles or a turbid or hazy character to the liquid. Over about 30 days, Schaaf would continue to build up the starter culture, checking for signs of fermentation and assessing the aromatics before plating the new yeast strains out to be used for brewing.

It wasn’t long before Schaaf began swapping yeast – in all, more than 40 different yeasts including all of his wild captures and kveik cultures – with brewers around the world through connections made on Milk the Funk and Kveik World Order. He’d only charge for shipping; rather than trying to turn a profit, his goal was to share these unique yeast strains with other brewers. His Mud King blend, for instance, became popular with other brewers through a wild capture swap in the Milk the Funk group. It combines those dandelion and Spanish natural wine yeasts with wild captures from friends, including a dandelion in Colorado, an oak tree in Wisconsin and a Meyer lemon in California. Currently, Mud King is used in 45 different countries, including Mexico, Japan, Thailand and Tasmania, and at 37 commercial breweries globally. Ebb and Flow, of course, uses the Mud King blend, in addition to wild captures and historical yeast strains like kveik, which make up around 85 percent of its beers. Schaaf oversees production of these beers with the help of head brewer Brandon Simmons and brewer Jaime Zarate Sada, who also assists Schaaf with yeast propagation and quality control.

In a rare move for a commercial brewery – and a startup one, at that – Ebb and Flow avoids using commercial yeast entirely. The process is risky, of course, as wild yeast can work in unpredictable ways, but for Schaaf, the benefits outweigh any challenges. In addition to creating alcohol by eating the sugar in wort, different yeast strains also produce different flavors in beer.

“So many breweries in the world use yeast you can order from [a] lab,” Schaaf says. “[Ebb and Flow’s] yeasts are a different profile, so the beers will taste different. Even if I brew the exact same wort, I’m hoping it’s something that’s slightly different than anybody else’s because of all the bugs, all the yeast and everything is different.”

“Every single beer is an experiment when you don’t know what the yeast that you’re working with is capable of,” Simmons adds. “But that’s also kind of the fun of it, too; sometimes we strike gold with something and we’re really happy with it. It’s more of a benefit than anything just because it’s so unique; we don’t have a house culture or blend – we have hundreds.”

That’s why it’s Ebb and Flow Fermentations, not Ebb and Flow Brewing Co. – Schaaf wanted to drive home the fact that fermentation is the heart of the brewery. To that end, Ebb and Flow’s unique yeast-driven beers are made either with historical strains traded from around the world or wild captures found around Cape and other locales. The brewery then works with Bootleg Biology, an open-source yeast project in Nashville, to isolate and bank those wild captures.

If Schaaf’s goal was to set Ebb and Flow apart from other breweries, he’s certainly succeeded, and you need only look at the week’s taplist to understand how. Ebb and Flow doesn’t have any flagship beers, but the lineup always features beers brewed in a few core styles: culinary, historic and modern. To that end, you might find a rosemary, saffron and lime blonde alongside a lingonberry kvass and a chai New England IPA. With Schaaf’s decades of experience in the restaurant industry, culinary inspirations play heavily into the beers, featuring combinations of ingredients that he knows work well together, like blackberry and lavender; prickly pear and jasmine blossom; or cranberry, apple and baharat (a Middle Eastern spice blend). Inspired by Zarate Sada’s childhood in Mexico, a recent offering played on the popular drink tepache with pineapple, jalapeño and cinnamon.

Ebb and Flow also offers historic styles, like keptinis, a little-known variety of Lithuanian beer, or a recreation of the Double Brown Ale that Whitbread Brewery made in England in 1955. The latter, simply dubbed Historic Brown, was fermented with kveik and housemade invert sugar (made from sugar that’s cooked down for hours) as opposed to the more widely used crystal malt.

“Historically, they didn’t have all those specialty malts, so we use the invert sugar to give it that caramelly, toasty flavor,” Zarate Sada says. “Whenever we do traditional stuff, we go hyper traditional.”

The brewery also serves a small, seasonally inspired food menu with options like chicken liver pâté, a shaved steak gyro with pistachio dukkah and a lamb flatbread. Up until now, Ebb and Flow’s beers have only been available on tap at the tasting room in Cape Girardeau, but the brewery recently started offering growler fills and will release its first bottled beers in July or August.

Although there’s always one guest tap with a lager to please less adventurous palates, Schaaf says guests have wholly embraced Ebb and Flow’s unconventional approach. In just the first few months of releasing its house beers, Ebb and Flow has welcomed visitors from around the state, and even as far away as Arkansas and Alabama. The ever-changing, esoteric beer list is refreshing for guests, and perhaps even more so, for the brewers.

“No matter how long you’ve been doing this, you’re constantly learning something,” Simmons says. “There’s constantly something that hasn’t been done. We haven’t hit our ceiling yet as far as what we’re willing to experiment with and that kind of freedom has really humbled me – I didn’t know we could make things like this. I’m excited about what we’ll be making tomorrow.”

11 S. Spanish St., Cape Girardeau, Missouri, ebbandflowfermentations.com / j u ly 2 019

63

Presented By: MARK TWAIN 2nd Shift NARROW GUAGE 4 hands CRAFT REPUBLIC PERENNIAL EARTHBOUND PRIME PACKAGING FOEDER CRAFTERS ROCKWELL GEZELLIG SCHLAFLY LLY L WELY L NS LLYWELYN’S SIDE P PROJECT ITAP NICK’S PUB old bakery Otto’s tavern SOHA 64

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 1 9

p r o m ot i o n

what’s on tap

at craft beer week

By B e t h a n y c h r i Sto

PuBlic houSe BreWing co. haPPy hour 07.30 | 4:30 to 6pm Happy hour at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. ( 1831 Sidney St., Benton Park ) will leave you feeling crabby – in a good way – during Craft Beer Week. Peacemaker chef John Messbarger is creating a special appetizer menu to pair with a selection of canned beers from PUBLIC HOUSE BREWING CO. for an after-work Tuesday treat.

FruiteD Berliner WeiSSe Survey at the u.r.B.

Shakur & Biggie SmallS releaSe

08.02 | 7 to 10pm

4 HANDS BREWING CO. will be releasing two brand new beers, Shakur and Biggie Smalls, at its taproom (1220 S. Eighth St., LaSalle Park) .

Shakur is a West Coast-style IPA, and Biggie Smalls is a barrel-aged marshmallow imperial stout brewed in collaboration with Mikerphone Brewery. The release party will feature a DJ spinning jams and a specialty glassware release.

07.31 - 08.04 | times vary

Sample three different fruited, slushie-style variations of URBAN CHESTNUT BREWING CO.’s classic Berliner Weisse, all inspired by ’70s music and theater. For $2 per survey at The U.R.B. (4501 Manchester Ave., The Grove) , you can provide feedback using its online survey system. Can you dig it?

Singular Day iPa releaSe 08.01 | 4pm

THIRD WHEEL BREWING ( 4008 N. Service Road, St. Peters ) is releasing a new West Coast IPA for Craft Beer Week called Singular Day IPA 3.0. Be the first to try the new brew, and keep your glass! Plus, Third Wheel is continuing to host free tours every Saturday at 1:30 pm .

/ j u ly 2 019

65

Hog Wild From spicy to smoky to sweet, dig into 55 of our favorite pulled pork sandwiches.

Written by Ettie Berneking, Pete Dulin, April Fleming, Juliana Goodwin, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone and Jenny Vergara

I

t’s no secret that Missouri and Kansas are known

for serving some of the country’s best ‘cue. Cities have their own specialties – burnt ends in Kansas City, pork steaks in St. Louis – but no matter your location, most barbecue joints have at least one menu item in common: pulled pork sandwiches. In this issue, which is dedicated to the best summer eats and drinks, we tracked down 55 of our favorites, ranging from a riff on a Cuban to Hawaiian-inspired to classics with just plain tender, smoky pulled pork piled high on a soft bun.

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onion rings

◀ KANSAS CITY, ks.

▼ KANSAS CITY and leawood, ks.

Slap’s BBQ

Rye

Brothers Mike and Joe Pearce know a few

Found on the brunch, lunch and midday

things about cooking pork: Slap’s, after all,

menus at Rye’s Kansas City and

stands for “Squeal like a Pig,” which was also

Leawood, Kansas, locations, the smoked

their former barbecue-competition circuit

pulled pork sandwich offers a slightly

name. The Sandwich at Slap’s is simple right

more dressed-up version of the classic.

down to its unassuming name – just rich,

Served on a large buttered and toasted

smoky pulled pork, creamy Provel cheese

house bun, it features tender pulled and

and two onion rings – but when the pork is

chopped pork tossed with house sauce, topped with a dollop of coleslaw and served with fries and pickles.

–Jenny Vergara ryekc.com

creamy Provel cheese

this good, no other frills are needed. –A.F. slapsbbqkc.com

▪ overland park, ks.

Brobecks Barbecue

▪ KANSAS CITY Q39

Doug Brobeck, former owner of Stilwell

One of Q39’s most popular items, the Triple

Smokehouse in Stilwell, Kansas, opened

Threat Sandwich, is almost intimidating:

Brobecks Barbecue in Overland Park, Kansas,

It comes stacked tall with spicy, smoky

Established in 1951, McGonigle’s Market has

12 years ago. The Tennessee Porker sandwich

chipotle sausage, juicy pulled pork and

long been a Kansas City staple for groceries

is a fan favorite, plating dry-rubbed pulled

generous slices of tender pork belly drizzled

and fine meats. Belly up to the trailer parked

pork dry on a hoagie bun with an optional

with Q39’s zesty barbecue sauce. The

outside the store for its smoky pulled pork

coleslaw topping and your choice of sauce,

sandwich is in-your-face rich yet well balanced

sandwich, which piles tender and slightly

including housemade sweet or Carolina

with a tart apple slaw, all held together on a

sweet meat atop a humble hamburger bun.

mustard. –Pete Dulin brobecksbbq.com

toasted bun. –A.F. q39kc.com

The sandwich is served as the special on

▪ KANSAS CITY McGonigle’s Market

Wednesdays for just $4.99 – although it’s

▪ olathe, leawood and kANSAS CITY, ks.

Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que

▪ KANSAS CITY Danny Edwards BLVD BBQ Named for the barbecue pro who founded

worth the extra buck any other day of the week, too. –P.D. mcgonigles.com

▪ KANSAS CITY Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbeque

The Rocket Pig represents the porcine

the joint, Danny Edwards BLVD BBQ serves

answer to Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que’s

a 12-ounce Southern-style pulled pork

famous Z-Man brisket sandwich. Tender

sandwich. A toasted bun is packed with

Available for lunch or dinner at all five of

pulled pork is tossed in a sweet-heat

finely chopped pulled pork butt, a not-too-

Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbeque’s Kansas

competition-style glaze and then topped with

saucy coleslaw and a savory house sauce.

City-area locations, the Southern Jack pulled

crispy bacon and pepper Jack cheese. The

Extra pork, charred bits of meat and slaw

pork sandwich is a sight to behold. It features

Rocket Pig is finished with fried jalapeños

cascade around the sides of the sandwich,

slow-smoked, hickory-roasted pulled pork

(rather than onion rings), adding crunch and

basically affording you a second helping. –P.D.

dressed with a little bit of house sauce on a

extra heat. –April Fleming joeskc.com

dannyedwardsblvdbbq.com

long, soft hoagie bun. No coleslaw needed: This sandwich serves up just meat, bun and sauce, along with a side of fries and some dill

▶ KANSAS CITY, ks.

Rosedale Bar-B-Q

pepper Jack cheese

pickle slices. –J.V. jackstackbbq.com photography this spread by alistair tutton

In Kansas City, Kansas, Rosedale Bar-B-Q’s Pig Pen delivers perfectly balanced texture and flavor. The sandwich tops pulled pork with gooey, melted pepper Jack cheese, generous handfuls of roasted red and yellow bell peppers, crispy onion straws and flash-fried jalapeño Bottle Caps. It’s savory, gooey, spicy and crunchy all in one bite. –A.F. rosedalebarbeque.com

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deep-fried hot pickle

▪ KANSAS CITY, ks.

Woodyard Bar-B-Que

▪ west plains, mo.

Bootleggers BBQ

Snag a seat on Woodyard Bar-B-Que’s patio in

Bite into a taste of the tropics with the

Kansas City, Kansas, and watch the pitmasters

Hawaiian pork sandwich at Bootleggers BBQ

smoke meat – using wood from its adjoining

in West Plains, Missouri. A slice of double-

retail woodyard, no less. Here, the pulled pork

smoked ham is glazed with brown sugar and

sandwich is served on a large bun topped

honey and topped with succulent pulled

with two handfuls of meat and housemade

pork. It’s finished with grilled pineapple and

coleslaw and either hot or original sauce. Enjoy

housemade sweet onion barbecue sauce and

it on the brick patio alongside live music. –J.V.

served on a potato bun. –Juliana Goodwin

woodyardbbq.com

facebook.com/bootleggersbbqofwestplainsmo

▪ lampe, mo.

The Fillin’ Station

▪ springfield, mo.

Whole Hog Café

Kansas City-style ‘cue. The towering Pickled

The family behind The Fillin’ Station in Lampe,

You’re going to need extra napkins for the

Pig sandwich marries the two specialties,

Missouri, has been smoking pulled pork since

Memphis-style pulled pork sandwich at

featuring a pile of pulled pork butt slathered

the roadside joint opened in 2008. They

Whole Hog Café’s two Springfield, Missouri,

with creamy slaw and stacked on a fluffy

keep it simple but delicious: Pork shoulder

locations. It isn’t saucy, but instead comes

Farm to Market Bread Co. egg bun.

is rubbed with a housemade spice blend and

topped with creamy coleslaw. That

Deep-fried hot pickles take the sandwich to

then smoked for 12 to 14 hours. For its pulled

mayo-laced crunch complements the pecan

the next level. –P.D. charbarkc.com

pork sandwich, a half-pound of meat is piled

wood-smoked pork, which sits in the smoker

photo by alistair tutton

on a grilled whole-wheat bun, slathered with

for 15 hours. Take your pick between a

Smokin’ Dave’s BBQ sauce, a heap of coleslaw

quarter-pound or half-pound of meat and

and served with from-scratch chips.

sample the seven sauces to find your favorite.

–Ettie Berneking thefillinstation.net

–E.B. wholehogsgf.com

▲ KANSAS CITY

egg bun

Char Bar Char Bar is where Southern-inspired sides and smokehouse favorites meet

▪ north kANSAS CITY, mo.

Hawg Jaw Que & Brew

◀ joplin, mo.

Brothers Sam and Nick Silvio relocated

Big R’s BBQ

Hawg Jaw Que & Brew from Kansas City’s Riverside neighborhood to North Kansas City, Missouri, in 2017. The best-selling pulled pork sandwich can be ordered in three sizes: small

Missouri, is the kind of sandwich you treat yourself to on special occasions.

(four ounces of meat), medium (six ounces)

Not only does it feature pulled pork, but

and large (eight ounces). Top the tender pork

it comes with sweet smoked ham and

with sauces like sweet house Kansolina or Mammaw’s Spicy with notes of cinnamon and black pepper. –P.D. hawgjaw.com

▪ KANSAS CITY LC’s Bar-B-Q

The Perfect Pig at Big R’s BBQ in Joplin,

brown sugar-cured bacon. The whole mess is loaded onto a toasted brioche bun and served with a sweet barbecue sauce that’s made in-house. –E.B.

brown sugar-cured bacon

bigrsbbq.com photo by mark neuenschwander

Served on plain white bread, the pulled pork sandwich at LC’s Bar-B-Q is an old-school Kansas City favorite. Step inside the small storefront, where smoke can be spotted curling out of the pit behind the counter

smoked ham

accompanied by the hunger-inducing aroma of smoked meats. Order a side of fries and a mild sweet sauce with faint spice and a tangy finish for one of the best sandwiches in town. –P.D. lcsbarbq.com

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toasted brioche

grilled French bread Carolina mustard sauce housemade sweet-and-spicy pickles melted Swiss smoked Duroc ham

▪ springfield, mo. lost Signal Brewing Co.

▪ springfield, mo.

City Butcher and Barbecue

Black Market Smokehouse

▪ springfield, mo.

Smokin’ Bob’s Barbeque

The scrumptious pulled pork sandwich

At City Butcher and Barbecue in Springfield,

The Bar-B-Cuban at Black Market

The Smothered Carolina sandwich at Smokin’

at Lost Signal Brewing Co., in Springfield,

Missouri, Central Texas ‘cue reigns supreme.

Smokehouse in Springfield, Missouri,

Bob’s Barbeque in Springfield, Missouri,

Missouri, is served on a buttered and toasted

The barbecue joint uses a blend of white oak

redefines extravagance. The sandwich starts

strikes the perfect balance between smoky,

brioche bun and topped with pickled red

and hickory wood to smoke its meats, including

with pulled pork that’s been smoked for 12

tangy and sweet. After applying a house rub,

onions and housemade dill pickles. The

pork shoulder. The pork rub is simple – just

hours over hickory and cherry wood. The

the meat is smoked over hickory wood for

meat is first coated with a housemade rub

salt and black pepper – and is applied just

meat is then piled on smoked Duroc ham and

20 hours, producing juicy pulled pork that’s

and smoked over hickory wood for 12 hours.

before the meat is smoked for 14 to 16 hours.

topped with house sweet-and-spicy pickles,

then piled on a warm bun and topped with

Douse your sandwich with Lost Signal’s

The pulled pork sandwich is served plain on

tangy Carolina mustard sauce and melted

Cheddar cheese sauce, pickled jalapeños and

signature barbecue sauce, which gets its

a Martin’s Famous Potato Roll, but there’s

Swiss cheese between crusty grilled French

a mayonnaise-based housemade slaw. –J.G.

distinct flavor from the brewery’s On Air IPA.

nothing plain about the smoky flavor of the

bread. –J.G. blackmarket-smokehouse.com

smokinbobsbbq.com

–J.G. lostsignalbrewing.com

meat. –J.G. citybutchersgf.com

photo by brandon alms

▪ springfield, mo.

Crosstown Barbecue

▪ springfield, mo.

St. George’s BBQ

▼ cuba, mo.

Don’t underestimate this simple dry rub at

▲ springfield, mo.

Missouri Hick Bar-B-Que

▪ branson, mo.

Gettin’ Basted The pitmasters at Gettin’ Basted in Branson,

The secret is in the sauce when it comes

St. George’s BBQ in Springfield, Missouri. A

The open-faced pulled pork sandwich at

Missouri, do things a little differently. Instead

to the Memphis Beale Street sandwich

dusting of paprika, salt, chile powder and a

Missouri Hick Bar-B-Que in Cuba, Missouri,

of smoking meat low and slow, pork is cooked

at Crosstown Barbecue in Springfield,

few other secret ingredients coat St. George’s

is nostalgic. It starts with a family rub recipe

hot and fast over direct heat in 55-gallon

Missouri. This classic pulled pork sammie

pulled pork before it’s hauled to the smoker.

before being smoked for 12 hours with wild

barrels fueled by fires built with Missouri

features smoked, chopped pork smothered

Once ready, a quarter-pound of tender pulled

cherry wood. Shredded pieces of pork are

hardwood coals and pecan wood. The result

in Crosstown’s signature Kansas City-style

pork is heaped on a toasted brioche bun and

then piled high on Texas toast and smothered

is juicy pulled pork served on a soft roll, with

sauce and topped with fresh coleslaw

served with housemade sauce. Upgrade to the

with roasted pork gravy, with garlic-red skin

Gettin’ Basted’s signature sweet and tangy

for a welcome crunch. –Lillian Stone

Southern pulled pork sandwich for a crown of

mashed potatoes (reminiscent of Grandma’s)

sauce. Order it plain or dressed with pickles

crosstownbarbecue.com

chilled coleslaw. –E.B. stgeorgesbbq.com

served on the side. –J.G. missourihick.com

and coleslaw. –J.G. gettinbasted.com

photo by aimee whitmire

roasted pork gravy

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Danna’s Bar-B-Que & Burger Shop

▪ jefferson city and columbia, mo.

Lutz’s BBQ

▪ Aurora, mo.

Hog Tide Bar-B-Que

The aptly named Big Big Pig at Danna’s Bar-B-Que & Burger Shop in Branson, Missouri,

With locations in Jefferson City and

At Hog Tide Bar-B-Que in Aurora, Missouri,

features seven ounces of pulled pork slow-smoked over hickory wood for maximum

Columbia, Missouri, Lutz’s BBQ smokes its

the best-selling Carolina sandwich starts with

tenderness. The pork is piled high on two thick slices of garlic-brushed Texas toast and

pork shoulder overnight before pulling the

either Berkshire or Duroc pork encrusted in a

topped with smoked rope sausage. It’s best enjoyed alongside one of the barbecue spot’s

meat for the lunch rush. Piled on a Rotella

house rub and marinated in fruit juices, sugar

housemade fried Memphis rolls, which feature a melted butter center. –L.S. dannasbbq.com

bun, the pulled pork sandwich can be ordered

and seasoning for extra flavor, and is then

photo by travis howard

with Lutz’s spicy, sweet mustard or

smoked over pecan wood for more than 14

Kansas City-style barbecue sauces.

hours. The mouthwatering hand-pulled pork is

–Jessica Vaughn Martin lutzbbq.com

then topped with housemade sweet coleslaw

▼ branson, mo.

garlicky Texas toast

smoked rope sausage

and sandwiched between a buttered and

▪ columbia, mo.

Buckingham Smokehouse Bar-B-Q Like all of the ‘cue at Buckingham Smokehouse Bar-B-Q in Columbia, Missouri, pork shoulders are smoked for hours in the restaurant’s giant hickory wood-fueled, 5,000-pound smoker.

The pork is then pulled apart and slapped on a local soft bun. Customers rave about the pickles – so be sure to ask for extra. –J.V.M. buckinghamsmokehouse.com

▪ columbia, mo.

Big Daddy’s BBQ

toasted brioche bun. Finish yours with the Competition or hot barbecue sauces, which are served on the side. –J.G. hogtidebbq.com

▲ columbia, mo.

Smokin Chicks BBQ Get a taste of Memphis-style pulled pork at Smokin Chicks BBQ in Columbia, Missouri, where pitmaster Chick Orscheln makes meat that pulls like butter after spending many hours in the smoker. The layers of tender pulled pork are topped with housemade horseradish slaw and served on a Kaiser roll.

–J.V.M. smokinchicksbbq.com photo by aaron ottis

Served with two sides – including baked

jalapeño brioche

beans, potato salad or fries – Big Daddy’s BBQ’s pulled pork sandwich gets the house treatment from beginning to end. Whether you seek out the food truck or Columbia, Missouri, restaurant, the sandwich is made with the same special house rub and finished with a generous portion of Big Daddy’s signature sweet and spicy barbecue sauce.

–J.V.M. facebook.com/bigdaddysbbqcomo

▪ columbia, mo.

D. Rowe’s Restaurant and Bar

▲ columbia, mo.

Como Smoke & Fire This pulled pork sandwich brings the heat.

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D. Rowe’s Restaurant and Bar in Columbia,

After spending half a day in the smoker,

Missouri, rests a hefty pork shoulder in

Como Smoke & Fire’s juicy pork is pulled and

a special house rub and marinade before

pressed between a jalapeño brioche bun.

transferring it to the smoker for 17 hours; the

(And if it’s too spicy for you, no worries – the

pork shoulder is then pulled to order to ensure

Kaiser roll makes a worthy substitute.) Finish

the meat stays as juicy and tender as possible.

the sandwich off with one of the Columbia,

The pulled pork sandwich stacks a half pound

Missouri, restaurant’s five barbecue sauces;

of meat on a brioche bun with barbecue sauce.

we especially like the Alabama white. –J.V.M.

–J.V.M drowesrestaurant.com

comosmokeandfire.com photo by aaron ottis

toasted ciabatta bun

▪ st. louis Five Aces Bar-B-Que

▪ st. louis Adam’s Smokehouse

In a small storefront in the historic Shaw

In 2013, Pappy’s Smokehouse alums Frank

neighborhood of St. Louis, Five Aces Bar-B-

Vinciguerra and Mike Ireland opened Adam’s

Que serves what owners Antonio and Toshia

Smokehouse in a small space in the Clifton

Ellis call “authentic open-flame barbecue,”

Heights neighborhood of St. Louis. Pulled

cooked over hickory and featuring a special

pork sandwiches at Adam’s come in six- or

seasoning blend with no salt. Pulled pork is

eight-ounce portions, tender with rendered

served on a simple Kaiser roll; try it with a side

fat and just the right texture, plus two sides;

of fried okra or baked mac ‘n’ cheese.

we like the home-style applesauce and pit

–Nancy Stiles fiveacesbbq.com

beans. –N.S. adamssmokehouse.com

▪ st. louis Pappy’s Smokehouse

▪ st. louis Sugarfire Smoke House

▪ st. louis Bootleggin’ BBQ

Stellar Hog

Bootleggin’ BBQ opened in Downtown

Inside a former South City dive bar, Stellar

Memphis-style ‘cue in St. Louis. Although best

After just six years, Sugarfire Smoke House

St. Louis in 2015 serving Kansas City-style

Hog serves pitmaster Alex Cupp’s pulled pork,

known for its ribs and brisket, the pulled pork

is one of the most prolific barbecue spots

barbecue – a relative rarity in the Gateway

smoked for 14 hours and finished in its own

sandwich is a must-try, too: Slow-cooked over

in St. Louis. You'll find classic pulled pork

to the West. The pulled pork sandwich is

juices and vinegar served on a toasted hoagie.

apple and cherry woods, the pork is piled on a

sandwiches at all 13 locations, featuring

dry rubbed with Bootleggin’s signature

Feeling fancy? Try the Southside Smoke,

soft bun. Dig in sans sauce or go for the house

local pork smoked for hours and sandwiched

Booty Rub and slow-smoked over Missouri

a toasted ciabatta bun loaded with tender

Carolina vinegar or Pappy’s Original BBQ

between freshly baked buns. Choose from

hickory wood, then topped with coleslaw

pulled pork, smoked Gouda and caramelized

Sauce, St. Louis-style Sweet Baby Jane or

housemade sauces including White BBQ and

and served on a buttered bun. –N.S.

onions. –N.S. thestellarhog.com

fiery Hoodoo. –N.S. pappyssmokehouse.com

Texas Hot. –N.S. sugarfiresmokehouse.com

bootlegginbbq.com

photo by rolf ringwald

▪ st. louis Salt + Smoke

▪ st. louis Smoki O’s

Since opening in the Delmar Loop in 2014,

Smoki O’s first opened as a stall at the

Salt + Smoke has grown to boast three St.

Soulard Farmers Market in 1997 and quickly

Pitmaster Skip Steele and his team are known

Louis-area locations with another slated

gained a following for ‘cue – especially its

across the country for their pork prowess, and

for the Central West End. At the barbecue

famous snoots. Now, it operates a storefront

they have the awards to prove it. At Bogart’s,

and bourbon spot, pulled pork is smoked

in Old North St. Louis, offering snoots, rib tips

which the Pappy’s team opened in Soulard in

over post oak and topped with coleslaw and

and Minnie’s Potato Salad. If snoots aren’t

2011, Memphis-style pulled pork is tender and

house pickles. Trust us: Get a side of the white

your thing, try the pulled pork sandwich,

Pappy’s Smokehouse serves some of the best

smoked Gouda caramelized onions

Carolina mustard sauce

Cheddar cracker mac ‘n’ cheese and a whiskey

smoked for 10 hours and served with hot or

cocktail. –N.S. saltandsmokestl.com

mild sauce. –N.S. smokiosbbq.com

▼ st. louis

Bogart’s Smokehouse

flavorful thanks to up to 24 hours of smoking ▲ st. louis

Smoking Barrels BBQ At Smoking Barrels BBQ, pulled pork is

▪ st. charles, mo.

Hendrick’s BBQ

▪ st. louis The Shaved Duck

Hendrick’s BBQ slings St. Louis-style ‘cue in

The Shaved Duck isn’t a typical barbecue

historic downtown St. Charles, Missouri.

joint. Owner Alastair Nisbet opened it in

The pulled pork sandwich is served on freshly

2009 with a Southern-influenced menu

baked bread with housemade pickles and two

where shrimp and grits, slow-smoked duck

sides – think bacon-braised greens or Cheddar

breast and jalapeño creamed corn all make

grits – and you can add coleslaw for just $1.

an appearance. The pulled pork sandwich

Can’t get enough pulled pork? Don’t miss the

features pork that’s smoked for several hours

pulled pork turnovers with smoked Gouda and

over wild cherry and hickory woods paired

sweet onion marmalade and pepper jelly for

with one side, such as caramelized onion

dipping. –N.S. hendricksbbq.com

mashed potatoes. –N.S. theshavedduck.com

▲ st. louis

dry-seasoned, smoked low and slow and

over apple and cherry woods. Try it with the North Carolina-style vinegar sauce or the spicy Voodoo sauce and baked pit beans. –N.S. bogartssmokehouse.com

spicy Voodoo sauce

photo by kelly glueck

piled on a freshly baked bun. Pitmasters Dennis Machado and Fernando Ordonez, who own locations in both the Southampton neighborhood of St. Louis and in Fenton, Missouri, have been smoking meat since 1996. Your sandwich will be tender, but for extra zing, choose from housemade sauces: Midwest Sweet, with molasses and brown sugar; Texas Spicy with cayenne and Worcestershire; or Carolina Mustard with spices and vinegar. –N.S. smokingbarrels.net photo by kelly glueck

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▪ dexter, mo.

Dexter Bar-B-Que

▪ ironton, mo.

Baylee Jo’s BBQ

▪ eureka, mo.

Super Smokers

Dexter Bar-B-Que began as a mobile

At Baylee Jo’s BBQ in Ironton, Missouri, the

Owner and pitmaster Jeff Fitter began

operation in 1983 before opening a

very first sandwich on the menu is the Pork

cooking with the Super Smokers competitive

brick-and-mortar in Dexter, Missouri,

Baylee Jo, and with good reason. Cherry wood-

barbecue team in 2002 before eventually

in 1991. Today, there are six locations,

smoked pulled pork is piled on your choice

taking over the Eureka, Missouri, storefront

all with drive-thrus, and a 244-seat

of Texas toast or a bun; we suggest topping

in 2017. The Memphis-style pulled pork

restaurant in Cape Girardeau. At Dexter,

the tasty sandwich with pitmaster and owner

sandwiches are dry rubbed and slow smoked,

hickory-smoked pulled pork comes on

Chris Schillinger’s cherry barbecue sauce

served with housemade sides such as sweet

Texas toast or a bun and topped with

and ordering a side of barbecue cornbread or

jalapeño cornbread, creamed corn and cheesy

coleslaw. –N.S. dexterbbq.com

jalapeño hush puppies. –N.S. bayleejos.com

potatoes. –N.S. supersmokers.com

▪ concordia, mo.

Dempsey’s BBQ

▪ steelville, mo.

Dairy Isle & Grill

▪ cape girardeau, mo.

Smokehouse 61

Daryle Brantley, who opened a location in

Dempsey’s BBQ opened in 2014 in the

Dairy Isle & Grill first opened in Steelville,

At Cape Girardeau, Missouri, favorite

Pine Lawn in 1983. Order your pulled pork “ol’

old Biffle’s Smoke House BBQ space

Missouri, back in 1962, serving burgers,

Smokehouse 61, the pulled pork sandwich

skool” for a real treat: pork is served on a bun,

in Concordia, Missouri. About halfway

ice cream and shakes. A (relatively) recent

will run you just $4.99. Featuring special

topped with creamy potato salad, drenched

between Kansas City and Columbia,

addition to the menu is the pulled pork

seasoning and sauce from the owners’ first

in sauce and wrapped in butcher paper. –N.S.

Dempsey’s is known for huge ribs and its

sandwich, featuring marinated and roasted

mentor, “Papa” John Farquhar, Smokehouse

candkbbq.com

house barbecue sauce made with Jesse

pork on a massive toasted bun with pickles

61 is known for its generous portions. Don’t

James bourbon – perfect for Dempsey’s

and house smoky-sweet barbecue sauce; go

forget the 10 home-style sides, including

classic pulled pork sandwich, served

Memphis-style and ask to top it with creamy

corn nuggets, baked potato casserole and

with a side of crispy fries. –N.S.

coleslaw. Be sure to save room for soft serve

sweet vinegar slaw. –N.S. facebook.com/

dempseysbbq.com

in a waffle cone. –N.S. dairyisle.com

capesmokehouse61

potato salad

▲ St. louis

C&K Barbecue C&K Barbecue is one of the oldest and most legendary spots for ‘cue in St. Louis.

First opened by Forris King in Ferguson, Missouri, in 1963, C&K is now helmed by

photo by rolf ringwald

▪ jennings, mo.

Roper’s Ribs As its name suggests, Roper’s Ribs in Jennings, Missouri, has been serving its famous St. Louis-style ribs, baby back ribs, beef back ribs and more to hungry St. Louis diners since 1976. But that doesn’t mean you should skip the pulled pork sandwich: It’s made with smoked pork shoulder meat, dry rubbed and smoked for at least 12 hours, sometimes as long as 20 hours, over hickory wood. –N.S. ropersribs.com

▼ hillsboro, mo.

Sammich Shack The pulled pork Cuban special at

Dalie’s Smokehouse is yet another gem from the team behind Pappy’s and Bogart’s.

Located a bit further west in Valley Park, Missouri, the spot is named after executive chef Skip Steele’s grandfather. Dalie’s opened in 2015, and in the same vein as his other places, Steele serves classic barbecue recipes he hadn’t brought out in 30 years. The pulled pork comes piled on a bun; choose from six different sauces including cranberry-cayenne, Carolina Sweet and Papa Joe’s Original. –N.S. daliessmokehouse.com

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Provel

Sammich Shack in Hillsboro, Missouri, isn’t your average pulled pork sandwich.

Attached to Leon’s Prime Cuts butcher shop, Sammich Shack serves – you guessed it – sandwiches, burgers, ribs and more. If you’re lucky, you can catch the pulled pork Cuban on special, with

▪ valley park, mo.

Dalie’s Smokehouse

pickles

pulled pork, ham, Provel, mustard and pickles. Order with a side of brisket mac ‘n’ cheese or Porky Beans. –N.S. leonsprimecuts.com/sammich-shack.html photo by madison sanders

ham mustard

Menu now featuring select German entrees, sandwiches and appetizers as well as our Tavern favorites.

Daily lunch and evening specials • Beef and pork supplied by Schubert‘s smokehouse Large selection of German beers • Large outdoor patio 602 N Main St, Columbia, IL 62236 | http://tinyspub.com/

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A gathering place for laughter, discussion and the joy of sharing a beer with friends.

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/ j u ly 2 019

73

Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros:

What’s your favorite frozen treat, and why?

Amy Covitz

co-owner Our Daily Nada Kansas City

“The honey-lavender ice cream at Betty Rae’s Ice Cream – the best ice cream in the world.”

Bryan Maness chef-owner

Rachel Rinas chef-owner

Caleb Stangroom executive chef

Suji Grant pastry chef

Mary Bogacki chef-owner

Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co.

Karbón

The Order

Niche Food Group

Yolklore

columbia, Missouri

Kansas City

Springfield, Missouri

st. louis

Crestwood, Missouri

“When it comes to frozen treats, I enjoy some chocolate-on-chocolate action.

My favorite is chocolate ice cream with chocolate fudge brownies mixed in. It’s the diversity of texture that really does it for me.”

“I've been known to put away a lot of frozen Reese’s [peanut butter] cups, particularly for breakfast.

Once you’ve had a frozen Reese’s, there’s really no going back to regular ones.”

“My favorite frozen treat is

“A vanilla soft serve with chocolate dip in a cake cone.

It’s nothing fancy, but it brings back some of the best childhood memories. The best part is the last bite, which is the perfect ratio of melty soft serve to crunchy cake cone.”

“Definitely ice cream cookie sandwiches. They are my two favorite things put together and they remind me of summertime and being a kid.

I would always get one from the ice-cream man – when my parents let me – and now I can make my own and eat as many as I want!”

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an aged duck-yolk ice cream – any flavor, really. I’m a sucker for savory desserts in general, though: foie gras truffles, savory semifreddo, things of that nature. Anything I can blast using liquid nitrogen as well – the fun stuff, ya know?”

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