September 2018 Feast Magazine

red Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

feastmagazine.com |

september 2018

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with pasta p a

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angle f or

adventure

IN tHe Ozarks mIssOurI's New

P. 5 4

luxury

cooking camp P. 6 0

a local winery ' s

HaNds-ON Harvest

Let's raise some dough for our neighbors in need!

Purchase designated pizzas at participating restaurants throughout September and a portion of the sales will go to help provide nutritious meals to hungry children, families and seniors.

More than 50 participating restaurants including

PIZZERIA

For more details and a complete list of restaurants and featured pizzas, please visit: STLFoodbank.org/SliceOutHunger

YOUR AWAITS

adventure

S i g n U p . E a r n Po i n t s . G e t R e w a r d s .

Enjoying Missouri wine has never been more rewarding (seriously).

As a Missouri wine MVP, you’ll earn rewards for exploring the wineries you love across the Show-Me State.

It’s as simple as creating an account, exploring wineries and redeeming your points for prizes.

Sign up for free and see for yourself how rewarding it can be to explore Missouri Wine Country – your adventure awaits!

MissouriWineMVP.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ne 2 017

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T Th he e ssp pe ellllb biin ndi ding ng sseq equ ue el l to to the the phantom phantom of of the the opera opera ra

Fa abulous Fox Theatre re • September 18-30 • 314-534-1111 • metrotix.com Fabulous

KALDI’S 4

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COFFEE

[

YouR Guide to leafY GReens

]

collarD Greens

in Good with

GettinG creative with leafy Greens with Dr. yikyunG Park Washington University associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center

It can be difficult to get excited about leafy greens.

Though their health benefits are well documented, tucking into a bowl of lettuce seems underwhelming when compared to the pizzazz of, say, exotic fruits or vegetables. But leafy greens can lend a surprising amount of depth to cooking: Ask anyone who has eaten mustard greens, and they’ll describe them as anything but boring. If you think outside the bowl, leafy greens can amp up dishes from pasta to stir fries.

“Leafy greens are high in vitamins A, C and K, folate and fiber,” says Dr. Yikyung Park, a researcher for Siteman Cancer Center at Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Washington University School of Medicine in St. Louis. “They also contain high amounts of carotenoids such as lutein and zeaxanthin, flavonoids, magnesium, potassium and calcium, and they have very few carbohydrates.” This alphabet soup of nutrients translates into vitally important health benefits. Vitamins A and C are antioxidants that help protect the body from free radicals, which can lead to chronic diseases such as cancer, heart disease and diabetes. Folate has also been shown to lower the risk of colon cancer and heart disease. Lutein and zeaxanthin help prevent eye diseases, such as agerelated macular degeneration and cataracts.

And all greens are low in calories but high in fiber — great news for the waistline and the digestive system.

An easy indicator of a leafy green’s nutrition is its color. The darker the leafy green, the more nutrients it contains. Iceberg lettuce is pale green. Compared to spinach, it contains just half the amount of vitally important nutrients, including iron, protein, potassium and vitamins A, C, K and B-12. As for as which green is the healthiest, Dr. Park stresses that all leafy greens have a part to play when it comes to good health. “All of these are really important and needed for the body, so it’s hard to pick just one. That’s why it’s good to eat many kind of greens,” she says.

There has never been a better time to get onboard with leafy greens — kale in particular. It’s found everywhere these days, from green smoothies in the produce aisle to kale chips in the snack aisle. Kale chips are a fantastic option for people who love the salty, crunchy appeal of potato chips but are looking to reduce calories. They are also a breeze to make at home, requiring nothing more than a bunch of greens, salt and olive oil. Dr. Park also recommends adding leafy greens as a light counterpoint to protein-heavy meals, especially as barbecue season comes to a close.

Roasted Pecan and PaRmesan Kale salad Yields | 6 SerVIngS |

1 cup water ½ cup quinoa 6 cups Lacinato kale, stems removed and cut as desired 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp Dijon mustard

½ tsp garlic, minced 1 tsp fresh cracked black pepper ½ tsp ground sea salt 1 cup pecans, roasted 1 cup Parmesan cheese, shredded

| preparation | Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add quinoa to the boiling water, reduce heat to medium-low and cover. Cook about 12 minutes or until the quinoa absorbs the water. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove lid and cool quinoa completely. Place pecans on a baking sheet and roast for about 10 minutes or until they begin to brown. Destem the kale, then roll up the leaves and cut vertically into long, thin pieces. Whisk olive oil, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, garlic, pepper and salt together until oil mixes, then drizzle over the kale. Once cool, add quinoa, pecans, Parmesan cheese and toss. nutrition Information (per cup): 271 calories, 23g fat, 290mg sodium, 12g carbohydrate, 5g fiber, 11g protein

Though collard greens have deep roots in Southern cooking, these large, robust leaves are also right at home in northern climates and can even continue growing into early winter. The leaves are so thick they’re often described as “leatherlike,” which is why most recipes call for them to be steamed, braised or fried. However, that thickness is an asset when it comes to using raw collards in place of bread for sandwiches or tortillas for wraps. They can also be shredded and added to slaws and soups. regardless of how they’re prepared, collard greens are a stellar source of fiber, as well as vitamins A, C and K.

MicroGreens The term “microgreen” is a catchall for the first shoots of a plant that push out of the ground, typically picked when they’re only a few inches tall.

Microgreens can be from any number of immature leafy greens — including arugula, Swiss chard, kale and endive — and their taste is reminiscent of their full-grown counterparts. Better yet, microgreens can grow in a week or two, and they are nutritional powerhouses that often pack more vitamins and antioxidants than leafy greens that reach maturity.

MustarD Greens If there were ever a counterpoint to iceberg lettuce’s flat, watery leaves, it’s mustard greens. Frilly, emerald and packed with beta-carotene, this peppery plant lends an unmistakable zing to every dish.

Americans most closely associate mustard greens with the South, but they’re also popular in Asian, Indian and African cooking traditions. The bigger the leaves, the stronger the bite, so look to baby mustard greens for a milder taste. Boiling or sautéing larger leaves with some salt and oil also helps temper the bitterness.

swiss charD Though the leafy parts of leafy greens tend to attract the most attention, for Swiss chard it is just the opposite: The stems are the showstoppers. Deep gold, electric red and bright white, they end in large green (or even purple) leaves. Swiss chard’s spectrum of color is also reflective of its broad swath of nutritional qualities. Vitamin K, best known for helping blood to clot, is found in greater abundance in Swiss chard than in any other green. Swiss chard is related to beets, and the vegetable’s signature earthy taste comes through prominently. As versatile as it is colorful, Swiss chard is great in soups, salads and pasta.

kale From a garnish that few people ever bothered to eat to the pinnacle of superfoods, kale’s trajectory over the last decade has been an impressive one.

It checks off so many boxes: It’s a font of vitamin A, vitamin C, iron, beta-carotene, calcium and antioxidants.

It boosts body parts from eyeballs (helps prevent agerelated macular degeneration) to intestines (it’s high in fiber and aids in digestion). It’s low in calories and helps regulate blood sugar. Look for Lacinato (or Tuscan) kale, a mild variety that is good cooked or raw, and is the Inspiredvariety Local Food Culture e pt e mbe r 2 018 perfect to make kale schips.

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WESTPORT PLAZA IS ST. LOUIS’ SUMMER HOT SPOT BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUES DINO’S DELI DRUNKEN FISH

Bread of Life Enjoy the

FUNNY BONE COMEDY CLUB FUZZY’S TACO SHOP GATEWAY NEWSTANDS

Celebrate World Communion

HATS-N-STUFF

at Ladue Chapel Presbyterian Church

IMOS PIZZA

9450 Clayton Road S t . L o u i s, M. .i. s. .s o u r i 6 3 1 2 4 More infor mation at laduechapel.org/worship

KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE MCDONALD’S PAUL MINEO’S TRATTORIA PLAYHOUSE @ WESTPORT PLAZA ROBATA WESTPORT - COMING SOON! SHERATON AT WESTPORT SMOOTHIE KING SAINT LOUIS BREAD COMPANY

Experience the Harvest

STARBUCKS TRAINWRECK SALOON WESTPORT SOCIAL

Westport plaza presents

Vineyard Tours ours • Wine Tasting Ta as g • C Craft a Beer ee • Cottages Potosi, MO • www.edg www.edg-clif.com clif.com

asian CaFe Bar & Grill sty food?

Hungry for ligHt’ts&wtaoking at asian cafe Ha you just can’t beat w

GluTen Free and veGan Friendly

5pm-7pm mon-ThurS

(636) 272-4429

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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20 Sponsored by Bud Select LIVE MUSIC FROM FATPOCKET

Intersection of I-270 and Page Avenue St. Louis, MO 314-576-7100 { westportstl.com }

happy hour

1260 Bryan road, o’Fallon, Mo 63366

PARTIES ON THE PLAZA

Sun-Thur 11am-9pm Fri-SaT 11am-10pm CloSed 3pm-5pm mon-Fri

september 2018

from the staff

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from the PUBLIsher

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dIgItaL content

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feast tv

Dig in What’s online this month Water world

dIne

Table of conTenTs phoTo of avocado ToasT aT banksia in kansas ciTy (p. 26) by zach bauman coveR phoTo of RicoTTa gnocchi aT The inns

49

aT sT. albans (p. 54) by judd demaline

wildest streams

Whether you’re a seasoned fly fisher or new to the sport, it’s easy to catch your next meal at Rainbow Trout & game Ranch.

54

what’s cooking?

60

behind the vine

a new culinary destination takes shape near st. louis at The inns at st. albans.

get hands-on in the vineyard and explore how wine is made in the cellar during harvest season at edg-clif farms & vineyard in potosi, missouri.

| 22 |

on trend

| 23 |

one on one

| 24 |

where we’re dInIng

| 25 |

shoP here

| 25 |

artIsan ProdUct

| 26 |

one on one

Supersized shakes David Sandusky of Beast Craft BBQ and Beast Butcher & Block Levant, Golden Ox, Jamaican Patty Co. The Pantry KC Byrd & Barrel Fermented-Pepper Honey Robert Joseph and Erika Vikor of Banksia

drInk

| 30 |

on trend

| 31 |

one on one

| 32 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 33 |

shoP here

| 33 |

artIsan ProdUct

| 34 |

the mIx

| 35 |

on the sheLf

Rum bars

Tzuyang Chao of Bubblecup Tea Zone Maypop Coffee & Garden Shop, Dale Hollow Winery, The Savoy at 21c Park Central Market Jack Stack Barbecue’s Jack’s Smokin’ Mary Bloody Mary Mix Apple Butter Old Fashioned What to drink this month

cook

| 38 |

| 40 |

heaLthy aPPetIte

Crispy rice bowls with pickled red onion and yogurt sauce mystery shoPPer

Watermelon rind

| 42 |

qUIck fIx

| 44 |

sweet Ideas

Shrimp, scallop and peach ceviche Rosemary-olive oil challah

Volume 8

| Issue 9 | September 2018

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager, st. louis region

Michele Russo, mrusso@feastmagazine.com, 314.565.6711 account Manager, Kansas city region

Pete Nicklin, pnicklin@feastmagazine.com, 785.431.8025 account Manager, Kansas city region

Briana Craemer, bcraemer@feastmagazine.com, 913.708.1283 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

After reading Tessa Cooper’s feature on Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch, head to Rockbridge, Missouri, with me and learn to fly fish in the Water World episode of Feast TV. You’ll find that episode, along with the rest of the current season, at feastmagazine.com.

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen fact checKer

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Jordan Baranowski, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Amanda Elliott, Ana Elliott, Natalie Gallagher, Becky Hardin, Hilary Hedges, Katherine Herrick, Justin Phelps, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Keith Borgmeyer, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Ana Elliott, Shane Epping, Becky Hardin, Anthony Jinson, Jacklyn Meyer, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Rolf Ringwald, Jennifer Silverberg , Mabel Suen, Andrew Trinh, Aimee Whitmire

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2018 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

C

ooking is not a spectator sport. At least, it shouldn’t be. Merely being a consumer takes a lot of the joy out of the culinary experience, so in this issue, we are getting hands-on.

Managing editor Nancy Stiles recounts a weekend spent out in St. Albans, Missouri, at the International Choux Co. learning how to make pasta in her feature story “What’s Cooking?”

St. Albans is a gorgeous hamlet situated along the Missouri River that’s home to an inn which recently debuted a “culinary camp” featuring immersive classes taught by cookbook authors, chefs and bakers. The weekend-long experiences allow students to dive deep and learn directly from experts. Nancy learned the finer points of how to make tender, pillowy ricotta gnocchi and long-simmered tomato sauce directly from Domenica Marchetti, the author of Preserving Italy, and you can experience the weekend vicariously on p. 54.

This time of year, harvest is in full swing across wine country. People are out in the vineyard, plucking clusters of grapes and lugging them back to the winery where the fruit is crushed and the magic of fermentation begins. At Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard, wine-lovers can join sisters Cyndy Keesee and Steffie Littlefield and learn how wine is made, from the vineyard to the crush pad to the tasting room. The winery offers a number of hands-on experiences so people can learn the art of winemaking and folks from across the country have trekked to the vineyard

near Potosi, Missouri, to get a taste of what it takes to make wine. Senior editor Liz Miller gives you a peek into the experience on p. 60.

Finally, writer Tessa Cooper heads south to Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch, a 2,000-acre resort dedicated to hunting, fishing and the great outdoors (p. 49). I had a chance to visit the ranch for Feast TV, donned a pair of waders and learned (or tried to learn) how to fly fish. It takes patience and a subtle touch. It’s not as easy as it looks, but I can tell you that it’s a lot of fun.

Seasoned anglers head to the ranch to fish its pristine spring-fed streams stocked with trout, and novices (like me) can take a lesson. Whatever you catch is cleaned for you right on-site, and if you want, you can have your fish cooked at the resort’s restaurant, where fresh trout is prepared in more than a dozen ways.

One of the things I love most about producing Feast TV is being able to learn directly from the makers, chefs and farmers I’m able to profile. The understanding you gain from a live experience is immeasurable, and food is a lot more satisfying when you’re involved in the making of it, so roll up your sleeves and dig in.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

09.18

Bold Flavor Country Ham

tessa cooper Springfield, Missouri, Writer & Photographer

— have you tried it? —

“Visiting Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch was a such a peaceful retreat from my busy work week. Living in Springfield, I often forget that I don’t have to drive very far to become immersed in a different culture and atmosphere. Standing in the cool stream next to an Ozark mountain felt a little like being in the fjords in Norway. Listening to the fly fishers converse about a pastime I’ve never attempted before was fascinating. After a morning filled with taking photos, I got to enjoy a delicious meal of trout prepared three different ways. It’s amazing how chef Wanda can make the same fish taste incredibly different just by changing up the spices and cooking method.” (Wildest Streams, p. 49)

Our cOuntry ham is hand rubbed with a simple cure mix, befOre it’s paper wrapped and aged fOr three tO nine mOnths tO allOw a bOld flavOr tO develOp.

natalie gallagher

KicK yOur sandwiches, charcuterie bOards and appetizers up a nOtch with this favOrite.

Kansas City, Writer “Thanks to this issue’s On Trend, I now have a whole road trip planned around milkshakes. I had so much fun getting the details on these gargantuan, larger-than-life masterpieces.

There is really no exaggerating the brilliance of a dinner-dessert featuring waffle pieces, a fried chicken nugget, maple syrup, cinnamon ice cream and candied bacon – thanks to the folks at The Pennant for the new obsession. So inspired was I by my research for this story that I tried to make a Piña Colada topped with a slice of homemade pineapple upside-down cake. It tasted great, but I did not get the Instagram-worthy shot I was hoping for. I’ll leave it to the pros!” (On Trend, p. 22)

rolf ringwald St. Louis, Photographer “Who doesn’t like a good milkshake?

My opinion of milkshakes has forever been changed photographing the monsters at Main Street Creamery in Washington, Missouri. I knew going in that they had some unique takes on milkshakes, but I was completely wowed once I was there. The owners were extremely kind and inviting, much like their storefront. If you get a chance to visit Main Street Creamery, be sure you bring your sweet tooth, a sidekick and a giant spoon! ” (On Trend, p. 22)

pete dulin Kansas City, Writer “Meeting Banksia owner Rob Joseph was an opportunity to learn how Australia’s diverse populace influenced the preparation of dishes at the bakehouse and café. Joseph’s culinary penchant for introducing heightened flavors in savory and sweet dishes alike makes for a sensory adventure. Banksia goes beyond basic Aussie meat pies: It also offers handcrafted sausage rolls, desserts and other foods that fill a much-needed niche in downtown’s lunch options.” (One on One, p. 26)

®

sMokehouse.CoM 32819 highway 87, California, Mo 65018 | 800-624-5426 find us at your loCal retailers or restaurants, order online or Call to purChase for your restaurant!

Inspired Local Food Culture

s e pt e mbe r 2 018

9

KC

indePendenCe UnCorked wineFest

9/8

Sat., Sept. 8, 1 to 6pm; $30 to $40; Bingham-Waggoner Estate, 313 W. Pacific Ave., Independence, Missouri; 913.999.4708; independenceuncorked.com

Now in its sixth year, Independence Uncorked is the one of the largest wine festivals in the state, featuring 25 Missouri wineries, a guest spirits distiller and 2,400 attendees. Held on the historic grounds of the Bingham-Waggoner mansion, the event will also feature art, music, beer, food booths and wine classes.

STL

9/8

a t s u Aug stival e F t s e v r Ha

Location: augusta, Mo Date: FriDay septeMber 21 - sunDay 23

ClassiC CoCktail Party Sat., Sept. 8, 6 to 9pm; $35; Lafayette Square Park, 2023 Lafayette Ave., Lafayette Square, St. Louis; 314.231.2537; facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek

Join Square One Brewery & Distillery for its seventh-annual Classic Cocktail Party at Lafayette Square Park’s last Concert in the Park, Sept. 8 from 6 to 9pm, with the Jeremiah Johnson Band. Tickets are $35 and include samples of local distilleries’ showcased spirits and signature cocktails. This event kicks off Craft Spirits & Cocktail Week (Sept. 8 to 16), where you can “drink like a local” and discover local craft spirits and cocktails through a series of events showcasing local microdistilleries and craft cocktail-making.

KC

Midwest tea Festival

9/89/9

Sat., Sept. 8 and Sun., Sept. 9, 10am to 5pm, prices vary; Ararat Shrine Temple’s Bennet Auditorium, 5100 Ararat Drive, Kansas City; midwestteafest.com

Devoted tea-drinkers and the tea-curious come together for two days at the Midwest Tea Festival. Browse the tea market filled with 30-plus local and national vendors.

Industry experts will speak on the Shang Tea Main Stage; attend shorter tasting cafés and workshops throughout both days for an additional fee and ticket.

Ticket info:

Saturday and Sunday are free to the public.Tickets for the 5k can be found at www.augustaharvestfest5k.com.Tickets for “Swing’n in the Vines” and “Fruit of the Harvest Dinner” please call 636-228-4005.

Event Description:

Enjoy the Harvest Season in Augusta, Missouri, starting off with a concert in the vineyard. Lace up your shoes for a run/walk in Wine Country in our 1st Annual Augusta Harvest Fest 5k. Saturday includes a festival for the entire family and finishes off with “Fruit of the Harvest Dinner”. Sunday concludes with theater productions and a historical cellar tour, plus much more.

STL

9/89/9

show Me sweets edible art show Sat., Sept. 8 and Sun., Sept. 9, times and prices vary; St. Charles Convention Center, 1 Convention Center Plaza, St. Charles, Missouri; 314.380.0033; showmesweets.com

Show Me Sweets aims to bring the excitement and fun of a cake, cookie and candy expo to Missouri. The two-day event includes an as-seen-on-TV celebrity cake artist, edible-art demonstrations and competition, hands-on classes from industry experts, booths with local and worldwide vendors and suppliers, live cake battles, Sweet Taste of St. Louis competition, photo booth and more.

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taSte oF St. louiS

STL

9/149/16

KC

9/16

Fri., Sept. 14 to Sun., Sept. 16, times vary; free; Chesterfield Amphitheater, 631 Veterans Place Drive, Chesterfield, Missouri; tastestl.com

The 14th-annual Taste of St. Louis is the ultimate food experience, being held Sept. 14 to 16 at the Chesterfield Amphitheater. The free event features 30-plus restaurants, the Stella Artois Chef Battle Royale, Kids’ Kitchen, the Marketplace and new in 2018: the Dessert & Bubbly Bar! Visit tastestl.com and follow along on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram @TASTESTL.

dig in!

Sun., Sept. 16, 6:30 to 9pm; $125; Historic City Market, 20 E. Fifth St., River Market, Kansas City, Missouri; cultivatekc.org/digin

Join Cultivate Kansas City for its seventh-annual Dig In! benefit dinner. Celebrate the local and thriving farm-to-table movement and support Cultivate KC’s mission to grow food, farms and community. Dig In! is highly regarded for its five-course meal created by prominent local chefs who use and showcase all-local ingredients sourced from within 50 miles – yes, even for dessert!

STL

2017 VISITOR’S CHOICE AWARD FOR FAVORITE BEER FESTIVAL

ADVANCE TICKETS STARTING AT $40

Limited tickets available!

SundayS at SunSet ConCert SerieS

9/1610/14

Sundays, Sept. 16 to Oct. 14, 6 to 8pm; free; Sunset Park Bandstand, 1 Sunset Park Drive, Festus, Missouri; 636.937.6646; cityoffestus.org/298/sundays-atsunset-concert-series

The city of Festus, Missouri, is introducing a new concert series on Sunday evenings through Oct. 14. Local and national acts will perform at the bandstand in Sunset Park. Lawn chairs, blankets, picnic baskets and coolers are welcome, and a local Scout Troop will have a concession stand.

STL

9/229/23

traditional MuSiC FeStival Sat., Sept. 22, 11am to 6pm, and Sun., Sept. 23, 12 to 6pm; $8 per day, children under 10 free; West City Park, 2221 Sunshine Drive, Festus, Missouri; 618.632.1384; cityoffestus. org/295/traditional-music-festival

Enjoy the Traditional Music Festival in Festus, Missouri, with national open fiddle champion and emcee George Portz. The two-day event features a huge craft show, food and drink from the Festus American Legion and live music from local and national acts.

STL

9/289/30

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13 | 4pm

$5 COVER

BEER LOVERS & VIP TICKETS START AT $25 oktoberFeSt St. louiS Fri., Sept. 28 to Sun., Sept. 30, times vary;

GERMAN-INSPIRED FESTIVAL FOOD & LIVE MUSIC • SOUVENIR STEINS BEER TASTINGS • WEINER DOG RACES • CONTESTS • GAMES

free; Urban Chestnut Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., Midtown, St. Louis; 314.222.0143; oktoberfeststl.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s eighth-annual Munich-style celebration is back with live music, German food, amusements and, of course, German bier! Admission is free; beer and food available for purchase.

PRESENTED BY

1330 GRAND BLVD, KANSAS CITY, MO 64106 Please drink responsibly

Inspired Local Food Culture

KCLIVEBLOCK

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PROMOTION

stc | 9/14 - 9 /16 Mosaics Fine art Festival

Wheat Fair and Festival

Fri., Sept. 14 to Sun., Sept. 16, times vary; free; Historic North Main Street, First Capitol Drive to

Fri., Sept. 14 to Sun., Sept. 16, times vary; free; Community Park, 511 S. Hanover St., Okawville, Illinois;

Adams Street, St. Charles, Missouri; 314.482.5476; stcharlesmosaics.org

618.243.5694; okawvillecc.com

Now in its 24th year, Mosaics Fine Art Festival showcases local, regional and national artists in an effort to educate and foster the community surrounding fine art. Along with a diverse mix of artwork produced by emerging midcareer and established artists in 16 mediums, Mosaics also features a performance stage with live music, hands-on art experiences in the Children’s Village and the Art for Youth Gallery.

Head to Okawville, Illinois, Sept. 14 to 16 for a festival and fair celebrating the best of farming and agriculture. The three-day Wheat Fair and Festival includes live entertainment all three nights, carnival rides, antique tractor pulls, a washers tournament, farm and homemaking exhibits, a queen pageant on Friday night and the renowned parade on Sunday at 2pm.

kc | 9/15

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il | 9/14 - 9/16

stl | 9/21 - 9/23

Kc Beer Fest

oKtoBerFest at das Bevo

Sat., Sept. 15, 3 to 6pm; $40, $65 VIP; The Kansas City Power & Light District, 1330 Grand Blvd.,

Fri., Sept. 21 to Sun., Sept. 23, times vary; free; Das Bevo, 4749 Gravois Ave., Bevo Mill, St. Louis,

Kansas City, Missouri; 816.842.1045; kcbeerfest.com

Missouri; 314.832.2251; facebook.com/events/179916625960524

KC Beer Fest, presented by Flying Saucer, is now in its 10th year celebrating beer in Kansas City. Now the most recognizable craft-brew festival in the area, KC Beer Fest features unlimited samplings of more than 200 hand-picked craft beers from around the world, rare keg tappings, gourmet food vendors and food trucks, live music, beer gardens and more in the heart of Downtown’s Power & Light District. General admission begins at 3pm; VIPs earn early admission at 2pm, access to an exclusive VIP area with an appetizer buffet until 4pm, private restrooms and a souvenir T-shirt.

Das Bevo’s second-annual Oktoberfest celebration is a party more than 100 years in the making. All weekend long, the Bevo Mill restaurant and event space will have live German and polka music, beer stein-holding contests, beer specials, a Schlafly Beer tasting tent and more. The band lineup includes Larry Hallar, Miss Jubilee, Deuchmister Brass Band, Beer Choir and Bolzen Beer Band. Prost!

feastmagazine.com

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PROMOTION

stl | 9/22

mo | 9/21 - 9/23 auGusta harvest Festival

Party liKe a cajun at the hanGar

Fri., Sept. 21 to Sun., Sept. 23, times vary; prices vary; various locations in Augusta, Missouri;

Sat., Sept. 22, 3 to 8pm; $35, $10 ages 12 and under; Elite Aviation, Spirit of St. Louis Airport, 18600

636.228.4005; augusta-chamber.org/event/annual-harvest-festival

Edison Ave., Chesterfield, Missouri; 314.471.6752; benchnorm@hotmail.com

Enjoy the harvest season in Augusta, Missouri, starting off with a concert and picnic in the vineyard, Swing’n in the Vines, on Friday. Lace up your shoes on Saturday for a run/walk in wine country for the first-annual Augusta Harvest Fest 5K Run/Walk.

Saturday also includes a free festival for the entire family and finishes with a Fruit of the Harvest Dinner. Sunday includes theater productions and a historical cellar tour and more. Tickets for the 5K can be found at augustaharvestfest5k.com, and for tickets for Swing’n in the Vines and Fruit of the Harvest Dinner, please call 636.228.4005.

Head out to the hangar for a Bayou bash! Party Like a Cajun is a fundraiser benefiting Volunteers in Medicine St. Charles, which serves the health care needs of St. Charles and Lincoln counties' adult residents who are not covered by Medicare, Medicaid or private health insurance. Along with NOLA-inspired food and drink, the fundraiser features a crawfish boil, jambalaya cook-off with expert celebrity judges (including KMOV's News 4 This Morning anchor Cory Stark), healthy-cooking demos, medical auction, health screenings and live music. Register by phone or email.

kc | 9/23

stl | 9/22 - 9/23 Fall cider Festival

BoysGroW FarM Fest 2018

Sat., Sept. 22 and Sun., Sept. 23, 11am to 9pm; free; Brick River Cider Co., 2000 Washington Ave.,

Sun., Sept. 23, 12 to 4pm; $50 general admission, $100 VIP, $15 ages 3 to 21, free for 3 and under;

Downtown West, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.224.5046; brickrivercider.com/ciderfest

BoysGrow, 9301 E. 147th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 773.793.5056; boysgrow.com/events/

Enjoy live music, fresh-pressed Missouri cider, fall games, cider and cheese pairings, local food and fruit vendors, and more at Brick River Cider Co.’s ciderworks near Downtown St. Louis. The fall festival is free to attend, including free cider and cheese samplings.

boysgrow-farm-fest

The second-annual fall Farm Fest is a family-friendly, chef-inspired event featuring renowned chef Lidia Bastianich of Lidia’s Kansas City. Enjoy food from 10 local restaurants, drinks, live music and a Kids’ Zone on the BoysGrow farm, all to raise awareness and funding for the nonprofit, which uses agriculture to teach entrepreneurship to the city’s urban male youth. VIP tickets include food in a private tent and a meet-and-greet with chef Bastianich.

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Photo by AMy SChRoMM PhotoGRAPhy

PROMOTION

stl | 9/29 river city jaMBoree

PaPPy’s sMoKehouse PorKaPalooza

Sat., Sept. 29, 9am to 3pm; free; 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., LaSalle Park, St. Louis,

Sun., Sept. 30, 11am to 5pm; $40, $45 at the door, $10 ages 4 to 17, free for kids under 3; Pappy’s Smokehouse

Missouri; 314.436.1559; 4handsbrewery.com

parking lot, 3106 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri; 314.535.4340; pappyssmokehouse.com

The folks from 4 Hands Brewing Co., Black Arrow Exchange, May’s Place and Key Rose Customs are hosting a River City Jamboree later this September. They will be transforming the front lot of 4 Hands into a flea market full of vintage antiques and handmade goods from a variety of local vendors. The Jamboree is sure to be a great fall event with live music, local beer, local food, and a variety of vintage and handmade goods.

mo | 10/6

Join Pappy’s Smokehouse as the St. Louis barbecue favorite celebrates 10 years! Porkapalooza is a parking-lot bash featuring offerings from Pappy’s, Southern, Bogart’s Smokehouse, Dalie’s Smokehouse, Seoul Taco, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., Mai Lee, Nudo House, Balkan Treat Box, Farmhaus, Anthonino’s Taverna, Strange Donuts, Ices Plain & Fancy, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Center Ice Brewery. Live music includes Lacey Caroline, Tim Montana and The Shrednecks, and Funky Butt Brass Band. Proceeds go to various local organizations.

kc | 10/13

socK hoP Party

oKtoBerFest live!

Sat., Oct. 6, 6 to 11pm; $25; LaChance Vineyards, 12237 Peter Moore Lane, DeSoto, Missouri;

Sat., Oct. 13, 4 to 8pm; $5 to $45; KC Live! Block, 1330 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri;

636.586.2777; bit.ly/lachancesockhop

Gather all your cool cats, don your poodle skirts, roll up those white T-shirts and get ready for LaChance Vineyards’ first-annual sock hop. The eight-piece Butch Wax and the Hollywoods will play from 7:30 to 10:30pm. Other groovy fun includes the chance to take a photo with vintage vehicles and best-dressed, hula hoop and dance contests. Passed appetizers will be available from 6 to 7pm, after which other food will be available for purchase. Tickets can be bought online or by calling the winery.

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powerandlightdistrict.com

Leinenkugel’s Leinie Lodge and Beer Garden presents Oktoberfest Live!, featuring Oktoberfest contests and games, wiener dog races, seasonal beers, food, prizes, live entertainment and more. Entry for the 21-plus event is $5 per person, but you can upgrade with a Beer Lovers or VIP ticket. The $25 Beer Lovers ticket includes entry at 4pm, a souvenir plastic stein and five 16-ounce draft beers. VIP includes entry at 3pm, a private VIP food spread, five 16-ounce draft beers and a VIP beer-tasting event from 3 to 5pm.

Photo by KC PhotoGRAPhy Co.

PROMOTION

kc | 10/21

kc | 11/3

dia de los Muertos celeBration

annual WicKed Wine WalK

Sun., Oct. 21, 1 to 4pm; free; Kessler Park at Scarritt Point, 3218 Gladstone Blvd., Kansas City,

Sat., Nov. 3, 3pm; $35 to $55; The Kansas City Power & Light District, 1330 Grand Blvd., Kansas City,

Missouri; 816.513.0726; kansascitymuseum.org

The Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) Celebration is back in its fifth year. Taking place at Kessler Park at Scarritt Point, which is just west of host Kansas City Museum, the colorful festival is open to all ages. To celebrate the Mexican holiday, kids can enjoy cultural arts and crafts, a community altar, live music, face painting, puppetry and more.

Families are encouraged to bring a picnic and blankets and enjoy the city view.

mo | 11/3 + 11/10

Missouri; 816.842.1045; powerandlightdistrict.com

Gather your witches for the Annual Wicked Wine Walk at The Kansas City Power & Light District this fall. Sip, taste and explore along 14th Street, with live music, wine tastings and small plates at each of the participating venues, which include Bar Louie, Bristol Seafood Grill, The Chesterfield, County Road Ice House, Drunken Fish, The Garment District Boutique and more. Proceeds for this 21-plus event will benefit a local charity. VIP ticket holders gain early entry at 2pm.

stc | 11/16 - 11/18

end oF harvest celeBration

treasure chest holiday exPo

Sat., Nov. 3 and Sat., Nov. 10, 11am to 9pm; free; Balducci Vineyards, 6601 S. Highway 94, Augusta,

Fri., Nov. 16 to Sun., Nov. 18, times vary; free; St. Charles Convention Center, 1 Convention Center

Missouri; 636.482.8466; balduccivineyards.com

Parkway, St. Charles, Missouri; 314.503.6333; treasurechestshows.com

After many months of hard work harvesting grapes for its award-winning wines, Balducci Vineyards is throwing a bash to celebrate the end of the harvest season! Head out to the Augusta, Missouri, winery for live entertainment, food and drink specials, bocce ball and other fun for the entire family, including an evening bonfire with s’mores and mulled wine.

The Treasure Chest Holiday Expo is back in its 11th year. The annual holiday shopping extravaganza has more than 200 booths filled with gift items, one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, gourmet goodies, holiday and home dĂŠcor, toys, books and more for all your holiday and gift-giving needs. The free event includes free parking and daily special presentations and raffles.

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this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

spECiaL GiVEaWay

PhotograPhy by bEn PiEPEr

We’re giving away two ViP tickets to the amazing grazing Feast in De Soto, Missouri, on Sun., Sept. 9! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

KC

PhotograPhy by ana Elliott

This month, get a taste of the much-anticipated Fox and Pearl. The upcoming spot from chef Vaughn Good (of the now-shuttered Hank Charcuterie in Lawrence, Kansas) will pop up for dinner in the former Novel space.

PhotograPhy by MabEl SuEn

photo by aaron ottis

Elotes Don Toño is bringing more of its traditional Mexican fare to Springfield, Missouri. The “Mexican wagon” has opened a second food truck, serving up street tacos, elotes and Dorinachos (nachos served in a Doritos bag).

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St. Louis diners now have another spot to get their pho fix. Longtime favorite Pho Long opened a second location on South Grand, serving homestyle Vietnamese fare including the namesake soup, rice platters and dry noodles.

feastmagazine.com

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Melissa Poelling made her name at Harold's Doughnuts in Columbia, Missouri, and experimented with sweets at downtown favorite 44 Canteen. Now, she’s moved to Kansas City; we caught up with the pastry chef to chat about the perfect chicken-fried steak, Kansas City barbecue and more.

F I V E

C AT E G O R I E S

T O M A T O + M U S T A R D + H O T + V I N E G A R + S P E C I A LT Y

G R A N D

P R I Z E

TO E N T E R PRESENTED BY

Restaurant • Winery • Live Entertainment 6601 South Highway 94, Augusta, Mo ( between Dutzow & Augusta )

balduccivineyards.com | 636-482-8466 Inspired Local Food Culture

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episode:

water world ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

From the freshwater stream to the saltwater farm, seafood is raised and harvested right here in the Midwest.

In this episode, host Cat Neville explores two very different approaches to farming fish. First, she heads to Rockbridge, Missouri, to test the waters at a decades-old trout farm where the fish are raised and the spring-fed streams are stocked for fishermen year-round. Then, she heads to Kansas City to see an innovative saltwater shrimp farm. Once the shrimp are harvested, Cat follows them to The Rieger to see how chef-owner Howard Hanna prepares the local delicacy, and then it’s off to her own kitchen to make a salt-baked freshwater trout.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

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feastmagazine.com

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

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Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television.

Check your local listings for airdates.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Roland Barkau

MEMORIAL GOLF COURSE - OKAWVILLE, ILLINOIS -

Come experience all the beauty of Southern Illinois at Roland Barkau Memorial Golf Course. Situated just 41 miles east of St. Louis, in the small community of Okawville, Illinois our course offers 18 holes of golf, featuring multiple tees to ensure every player a challenging yet enjoyable golf outing.

DON’T MISS A

SINGLE SERVING! Subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, STL and mid-MO dining.

Gather for a special occasion in a very special place.

Annual Events Fair & Wheat Festival and Parade

September 14 - 16, 2018

Chili Cook Off

October 13, 2018

Country Christmas Stroll, Festival of Trees and Christmas House Tour

December 1 - 2, 2018

Now hosting Kansas City’s corporate, philanthropic and social private events.

Heritage Days

Stay With Us! Visit

618-243-5458

618-243-6525

Okawville Chamber of Commerce

618.243.5694 okawvillecc.com

feastmagazine.com to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Tuesday!

816.245.7331 theamericankc.com

Have BBQ. Will Travel.

CATERING SERVICES FOR ANY OCCASION Corporate Lunches Corporate Events Seminars Weddings Birthdays Graduations

�

�

CATERING@BEASTCRAFTBBQ.COM

20 SOUTH BELT WEST • BELLEVILLE, IL 618.257.9000 WWW.BEASTCRAFTBBQ.COM Inspired Local Food Culture

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Polka Floyd - Chardon Polka Band - The Klabberheads

“World Famous” Obenheimer Express

Miller Lite ‘Oompah Fr ee’ Entainment

Contagious-Friday Contag riday That 80’s Band-Saturdayy Super per Jam-Sunday

Spectrum Brands 5K / 10K Run & 1 Mile Rootbeer Walk Kenrick’s Brat Eating Contest Sam Adams Stein Hoisting Fastlane Wiener Takes All Dachshund Race Antique Car Show Barefoot Winegarden USA Mortgage Kinder Garten Activity Area Craft, Food & German Vendors

Off Site Parking & Shuttle

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take the cake

Indulge at The Pantry KC, a new bakery in Lenexa, Kansas, on p. 25. photography by angela bond

SuperSized

shakes The invention of the electric blender back in 1922 made the very first milkshake possible, originally served in simple flavors like vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. These days, a simple, one-flavor milkshake doesn't always do the job: local restaurants are serving monster milkshakes that often require a full set of silverware to take down.

Written by natalie GallaGher

|

PhotoGraPhy by rolf rinGWald

Beyond Sweet ST. LOUIS. the premise of dallas holland’s St. louis ice-cream shop Beyond Sweet is simple. “We concentrate on everything being big and beyond,” she says. Case in point: beyond Sweet’s new yorker, a 16-ounce vanilla shake stuffed with cheesecake pieces and fresh strawberries, topped with a whole slice of cheesecake and more strawberries. holland got the idea for her dramatic dessert shakes from black tap in new york City, which serves similar stacked shakes. holland credits her sister, Camille McClinton, for the indulgent flavor combinations at beyond Sweet, including the Chocoholic, with chocolate ice cream, brownies, chocolate donuts, chocolate chips, chocolate sprinkles and chocolate drizzle. “We're heavy-handed; nothing is measured,” holland says proudly. “We don't count calories. if it's a happy birthday Shake, we put a thousand sprinkles in it – the more sprinkles, the more fun.”

5901 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/beyondsweettm

the Pennant TOPEKA, KS. Shakes get a special spotlight on the menu at

topeka's The Pennant, where executive chef Pedro Concepcion has designed recipes for signature alcoholic and non-alcoholic treats. "We had to make the Pennant a destination spot – something topeka doesn't see that often," Concepcion says. for example, the Jelly doughnut shake features six doughnut holes, a housemade berry jam, strawberry ice cream and strawberry vodka. in the nutty buddy, Concepcion blends vanilla ice cream, peanut butter and cinnamon, then tops the whole thing with whipped cream, nutty buddy bars and praline popcorn from topeka's Cashmere Gourmet Popcorn. the gargantuan shakes have been so popular that Concepcion has been inspired to create even wilder flavors: "right now, we're working on a chicken and waffle milkshake with waffle pieces, a fried chicken nugget, maple syrup, cinnamon ice cream and candied bacon.”

915 S. Kansas Ave., Topeka, Kansas, thepennanttopeka.com

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Main Street CreaMery WASHINGTON, MO. rob Kiser had a motto in mind for his ice cream shop, Main Street Creamery, before it opened in downtown Washington, Missouri: “do it big and do it good.” this mission is reflected in the epic shakes that populate the Main Street Creamery menu: 16-ounce Mason jars are lined with icing and piled with four to five scoops of ice cream and other goodies, and there’s usually a towering garnish – a slice of Key lime pie, a piece of cheesecake or a handful of ganache-covered oreos. Guests can choose from 10 specialty shakes, or design their own masterpiece, but Kiser and his team have some pretty good ideas about what will make people happy. the Unicorn is especially popular with kids: Cake ice cream is packed into a jar and topped with a housemade sugar cone, then showered with Sour Patch Kids rainbow-colored candy. Chocolate fans will go for the Ship-faced, with Pirate’s bounty ice cream (M&M's and oreo cookie chunks in caramel ice cream), a huge double-chocolate chunk cookie, marshmallow cream and chocolate syrup.

110 W. Main St., Washington, Missouri, facebook.com/ mainstreetmilkshake

Peruvian Dining

ne

On

n eO O

in SpringField MO

Q&A

DUTCH FUSION

david sandusky

chef-owner, beast craft bbq and beast butcher & block Written By Katherine herricK

|

PhotograPhy By j. PollacK PhotograPhy

ST. LOUIS. David Sandusky has become known on both sides of the river for his acclaimed Beast craft BBQ in Belleville, illinois, so it’s no surprise that fans were clamoring for a second location. Beast Butcher & Block, set to open this fall in the grove neighborhood of St. louis, won’t be another version of Beast craft, though. Both restaurants embrace his “all killer, no filler” mentality, but “you’ll find reasons to visit both locations, so don’t expect a carbon copy,” he says. For starters, Sandusky is adding two new concepts to his second restaurant: the Skullery, an experimental, reservation-only space, and the Butchery, a butcher shop and retail store.

Why did you decide to open an entirely new concept? Meggan, my wife, and i saw an opportunity to bring the city something they’ve never experienced in barbecue. it’s about taking what we’ve accomplished from illinois in the St. louis market and turning the volume up. How do the restaurants differ? Besides the Butchery and the Skullery, the [new] restaurant will feature a slightly different menu. Beast craft BBQ has a much larger craft beer selection, but Butcher & Block will have some [on] draft. We’ll also have a patio in St. louis, while Belleville has a more comprehensive take on allergens and diet restrictions. and if i’m feelin’ froggy ... i may work on some late-night street

334 E Commercial St.,Springfield, MO 417.344.0085 | vangoghseeterie.com

234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com

Gerard’s Restaurant

Rich in Culinary Tradition Proudly Serving St. Louis for 23 Years

Made To oRdeR  Steaks  Pasta  Oysters  Fresh Fish Colonnade Center 1153 Colonnade Center | Des Peres 314-821-7977 | stlgerards.net

C U L T I VA T E K C P R E S E N T S

food in the grove. Tell us about the menu at Beast Butcher & Block. The

menu shares the heart of Beast Craft BBQ with minor changes. I’m focused on bringing our legendary pork steak to the city, but I can’t deny that I wish to create an underground snoot following. [And] The Skullery will feature completely new items by reservation only, such as a new carving menu. How will The Skullery encourage experimentation? it’ll almost act as a separate restaurant, using live-fire grills, a small smoker and plancha to give us the ability to create whatever we want, any time. it won’t be held back by the logistics and limitations of a cook line. it’ll give me space to try new products, and it’ll work as a media space for The Budweiser Big BBQ Show [on KFnS], of which i’m the co-host. What about The Butchery? imagine having lunch in the dining room, then leaving with our house-cured compart bacon, locally grown tomatoes and bread from a nearby bakery. We’ll also offer custom cuts and trims for local competition cooks. How will you balance the two businesses? By allowing myself to spend time with my wife and daughter. i’m fortunate to have an amazing management staff and employees who invest themselves into our concept. i’ll continue to be fully planted in both as the director of operations and pitmaster going forward; they’ve enabled me to focus on the details of the new store, while not just maintaining, but improving operations in Belleville.

Join Cultivate Kansas City for our 7th Annual Dig In! Benefit A celebration that showcases the local and thriving farm-to-table movement and fundraises to support our mission to grow food, farms and community.

To learn more and get tickets: cultivatekc.org/DigIn

4156 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, beastbutcherandblock.com

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

levant

Jamaican Patty co.

Story anD PhotograPhy by Mabel Suen

Story anD PhotograPhy by ana elliott

st. LOUis. Diners in the Central West end can now get homestyle

sPRinGFiELD, MO. Craving a tropical getaway? Du’Sean howard can’t take you to Jamaica, but he can provide some authentic Jamaican cuisine at his new restaurant, Jamaican Patty Co. howard was born and raised on the Caribbean island, eventually moving to the u.S. and settling down in Springfield, Missouri. now, he’s bringing a taste of the island to local diners, specializing in Jamaican-style patties: flaky turmeric-tinted pastry shells filled with meat, vegetables or cheese. each has its own distinct flavor, and most have a kick of heat; start with a beefy cheese patty, a veggie patty or the best-selling curry chicken. on the weekends, howard branches out, offering jerk wings with fried plantains, rice and peas.

Syrian cuisine in a loungelike setting. Levant debuted in June, serving dishes from its namesake eastern Mediterranean region. the concept comes from chef-owner ahmad hameed and his brother aboud alhamid; the siblings also own Middle eastern restaurant ranoush in the Delmar loop. the dining room features a relaxed atmosphere, with a gold and black color scheme and imported décor from across the world. in a similar fashion, hameed’s menu features dishes inspired by turkey, Palestine, israel and Syria. While guests can find Middle eastern standards such as baba ganoush, hummus and a mixed grilled kebab platter, they can also sample unique specialties such as dawood basha, meatballs cooked in tomato sauce, onions and garlic. another comforting dish is kibbeh labaneh, which features balls of bulgur with minced onions, ground beef and yogurt sauce flavored with levantine spices.

386 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, levantstl.com

3439 S. Campbell Ave., Springfield, Missouri, jamaicanpattyco.com

Golden ox Written by Jenny Vergara PhotograPhy by anna PetroW

kansas city. thanks to owners Jill Myers and

chef Wes gartner, the legendary Golden Ox steakhouse in the historic Stockyards District of Kansas City is no longer a relic of the past.

Start your meal with old-school appetizers like steak tartare, escargot or rumaki, or opt for chilled seafood selections including shrimp cocktail and oysters on the half shell. gartner sources his beef from local ranches like beeman Family ranch, Dan Morgan ranch and Cedar river Farms, offering nine different steaks in varying sizes and price points. the selection

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starts with an 8-ounce flat iron, and goes on up to a mouthwatering bone-in, dry-aged 34-ounce rib eye called the Drover, which easily serves two people. Sides are served à la carte, including the beloved loaded baked potato, in addition to french fries, hand-battered onion rings, housemade pasta and Parmesan creamed spinach. general manager and sommelier richard garcia has created a unique and inviting wine list both by the glass or bottle; classic cocktails and beer are also available. this iteration of the golden ox nods to the past, and is for the next generation of steak-lovers in Cowtown.

1600 Genessee St., Kansas City, Missouri, goldenoxkc.com

BE aN MVP With Picturesque views, Picture award-winning wines and award-wi unforgetta unforgettable good times are all waiting for you in Missouri wine country!

Explore local wineries and earn points and rewards for your you visits with the Missouri Winery Visitors Vis Program (MVP).

The PanTry KC Written by Jenny Vergara

|

photography by angela bond

lenexa, ks. pastry chef deepal patel and her business partner, Joanna young, opened The Pantry KC in lenexa, Kansas, in July, offering lenexa-roasted Maps Coffee Co. coffee, fresh-baked desserts, sandwiches and more. after competing on Food network’s Spring Baking Championship earlier this year, patel, the former senior pastry chef at the Sheraton and Westin Crown Center hotels, and young quit their day jobs to open the bakery. Shelves at the pantry KC are stocked with bags of housemade granola and Maps coffee; the bakery case features a comforting selection of classic pastries, like croissants, danishes, muffins and seasonal quick breads, in addition to a colorful selection of fruit tarts, French macarons, cookies, bars, cakes and cupcakes. the pantry also accepts special orders and can make gluten-free pastries for any special occasion. raised in the U.K., patel plans to introduce sweet treats from her native country, such as Victorian sponge cake, traditionally served with tea. the pantry also serves Kansas City-made James’ lemonade, and polly’s pop, handcrafted sodas made and bottled in independence, Missouri.

7769 Quivira Road, Lenexa, Kansas, thepantrykc.com

n a rt i sa ct produ

byrd & barrel fermented-pepper honey Written by Katherine herriCK photo by Kelly glUeCK

sT. lOUIs. the team at Byrd & Barrel, the popular St. louis fried-chicken shack, has created the ultimate sweet and savory topping: fermented-pepper honey. the honey is sourced from between the rivers apiaries in dongola, illinois, then fermented with thai chile, habanero and bell peppers to bring the heat. after the five-week fermentation process, the result is a sugary, spicy mélange that can top off all sorts of snacks. try it on a bagel with cream cheese, fresh fruit, pizza or barbecue.

byrdandbarrel.com

It’s easy to

What You

be an mvp

Need to

Know

Register for a free account or visit a local winery Get a ticket each visit Enter the ticket code Earn points* every visit Redeem points* for rewards * Members can collect points until Dec 31, 2019.

Points can be redeemed as they’re earned or until the redemption deadline, March 1, 2020.

• Must be 21 or over to participate • No purchase necessary • Participation is voluntary for participants and wineries • Participating wineries can be found on missouriwinemvp.com

PERKs Only for MVPs. Qualify for special offers when you visit participating Missouri wineries

Sweepstakes Offer Join now and be eligible to win the current sweepstakes

For more information about the program and to register for your free MVP account, visit

missouriwinemvp.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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on

ne

robert joseph & erika vikor

n eo o

q&a

co-owners, banksia Written By Pete Dulin

|

PhotograPhy By zach Bauman

KANSAS CITY. Robert Joseph moved to Kansas City in 2012 from Australia to expand his veterinary pharmaceutical company, but once he retired last year, his wife, Kate, suggested he pursue his passion for cooking. Craving Aussie-style savory and sweet baked goods and the café lifestyle popular back home, the Josephs and business partner Erika Vikor launched Banksia in the former home of Sasha’s Baking Co. in downtown Kansas City.

What makes an Australian-style bakehouse and café different from other bakeries? In the '50s and '60s, many Greek and Italian immigrants came to Australia as skilled laborers to build infrastructure; they brought with them European-style cafés. Australia has a large multicultural population that brought their foods with them: Aussies reinvented and melded the cuisines while staying true to their essence.

–Robert Joseph Tell us about the menu. It’s a hybrid of breakfast and lunch with good coffee, pâtisserie and simple comfort foods like meat pies and sausage rolls with fantastic flavor.

We focus on gourmet sandwiches, salads and breakfast, using slow cooking techniques and Australian-influenced flavors that didn’t

exist in Kansas City. For example, our beef pie is made with beef dry-aged in 12 spices and herbs and then cooked for 18 hours in red wine.

Perhaps the most Aussie item is the Kangaroo Sausage Roll, made with Australian native bush spices, onions caramelized in marmalade and cocoa, sage, rosemary and juniper berries.

In deference to our multicultural heritage, we also make a sausage roll with Australian spring lamb, combined with harissa paste, couscous, almonds and currants. We also do a lot of catering for events and business meetings. –R.J. What are some traditional Australian items you're serving? Named after Lord Lamington, a Lamington is a square vanilla sponge cake sliced in half and spread with a layer of raspberry jam.

The whole cake is dipped in chocolate sauce and rolled in coconut. We sell more than 200 each week. ANZAC cookies are named after cookies that families made in World War I for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps troops on the front line. They’re made without egg so they last longer. Avocado toast has been huge in Australia for years; we reinvented it. Rob brought these flavors together: avocado, white miso paste, arugula, roasted black sesame seed, ponzu and pan-roasted cherry tomatoes. –Erika Vikor

Coffee is also an important part of Aussie café culture, right?

[For many years,] U.S. coffee palates were used to filter coffee made with Robusta beans and too much coffee-to-water ratio. For the past 50-plus years, Australians have used Arabica. Coffee should have a specific color of crema, or microfoam. A flat white in Australia is a cross between a cappuccino and latte, using only coffee crema and no milk foam. The first sip of crema is glorious. People who come here love that we’re making coffee Australian-style. –R.J. What’s next for Banksia?

We’re adding dinner service soon with shared plates, which are an institution in Australia. We then expect to add two locations by early fall; one near Country Club Plaza and one near Town Center at 119th Street. –R.J. 105 W. 9th St., Kansas City, Missouri, banksiabakehouse.com

A traditional Aussie pastry, the Lamington is a square vanilla sponge cake sliced in half, and spread with a layer of raspberry jam, dipped in chocolate sauce and rolled in coconut.

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A Holiday Tradition Steps away from the County Club Plaza

Lunch

DInnER

Wednesday through Sunday from 11am-4pm

Friday and Saturday evenings from 5pm-8pm

WInERY hOuRS:

Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday – 11am-6pm Friday – 11am-10pm | Saturday – 11am-8pm

12237 Peter Moore Lane | DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777 | info@lachancevineyards.com Like us on Facebook

325 Ward Parkway | Country Club Plaza 816.756.3800 | raphaelkc.com | chazontheplaza.com

2 n d AnnuAl

SepT. 21-23

CHEF ROB MAGEE

Local Flavor.

National Spotlight.

Q39 is proud to represent championship-style, Kansas City BBQ on the Food Network, Travel Channel and in an upcoming appearance on Cooking Channel!

Get your Q on at Q39KC.com 3 Q39 MIDTOWN 1000 W 39TH ST, KCMO | 816.255.3753 M–TH 11A–10P | F–SAT 11A–11P | SUN 11A–9P Q39 SOUTH 11051 ANTIOCH RD, OPKS | 913.951.4500 0 M–SAT 11A–10P | SUN 11A–9P

MO

R e bee

! ka r! MORe pol

MORe fun!

live ive German and p polka music all weekend l Beer long l Beer Stein Holding Contests C Specials l Schlafly Beer Tasting Tent

das bevo

Find us at the big ole windmill in the city! c

4749 Gravois Avenue | Saint louis, MO | 314.832.2251 | hallo@dasbevo.com

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Hiking

is a great way to get out and discover nature. It© s good for your health, and can be enjoyed by people of all ages and ability levels.

Wear comfortable shoes, and plan to layer your clothing.

Bring a camera, binoculars, and field guides.

Pack water and a light snack, like pecan-orange granola.

For places to hike near you visit mdc.mo.gov.

Discover

Nature

HIKED IT... LIKED IT! CHECK OUT HIKING OPPORTUNITIES AT THESE LOCAL CONSERVATION AREAS: Busiek State Forest and Wildlife Area Christian county – 18 miles of hiking trails Bethany Falls Trail at Burr Oak Woods Nature Center Jackson county – 1.33 mile hiking trail Engelmann Woods Natural Area Franklin county – 1.5 mile hiking trail Millstream Gardens Conservation Area Madison county – 2 miles of hiking trails Peck Ranch Conservation Area Shannon county – 2.5 mile section of the Ozark Trail Runge Conservation Nature Center Cole county – 2.4 miles of hiking trails Big Creek Conservation Area Adair county – 0.7 mile hiking trail

pecan-orange granola

Makes a generous gallon of granola

8 cups rolled oats 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans 2 cups raw sunflower seeds 1 cup sesame seeds 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup honey ¾ cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon almond extract Juice and zest (chopped) of 4 oranges 2 cups chopped dried fruit Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl, toss together the oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, and salt. Over low heat, warm the honey and oil in a medium saucepan, stirring until well combined.

Remove from heat and stir in almond extract and orange juice. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir well with a wooden spoon. Work the mixture with your hands, if needed, until everything is damp.

Spread mixture no deeper than ½ inch on large, rimmed baking sheets. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring several times, until crispy and golden.

When the granola has cooled, stir in the zest and dried fruit. Store granola in jars.

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Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com.

flower power

Sip coffee in a lush setting at Maypop Coffee & Garden Shop in Webster Groves, Missouri, on p. 32. photography by mabel suen

yellowbelly

rum bars Rum often gets a bad rap, but the spirit is much more complex than that sugary Piña Colada you ordered on vacation. Bartenders love working with rum for its versatility; depending on where it’s from and how it’s made, flavor profiles can range from sweet and fruity to oily and rich to spicy and light. Rum is having a revival, with cocktail bars dedicated to the spirit opening across the country.

Written by heather riske

|

PhotograPhy by andreW trinh

get to know

Rhum AgRicole When it comes to rum, the hottest buzzword right now is rhum agricole. Often likened to an agave spirit, it’s primarily made in Martinique.

Whereas most rums use molasses, rhum agricole is made from raw sugar cane that’s cut, ground and pressed into fresh juice. The unaged white rum is funkier than traditional styles, with a grassy, earthy and vegetal profile driven by its terroir. Think of it as an artisan, small-batch variety of rum – and definitely order it if you spot it on a menu.

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The eponymous Yellowbelly cocktail

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ST. LOUIS. Bar manager Tim Wiggins describes Yellowbelly, opening this month in the Central West End in St. Louis, as his love letter to rum. A former whiskey aficionado, he was quickly drawn to the complexity of rum, including some aged varieties that can resemble whiskey or bourbon. “The bridge to rum was discovering that it was way more versatile and cocktail-friendly than most other spirits I’ve worked with,” he says. “It’s as relatable as vodka but as complex as whiskey.” Yellowbelly isn’t a straight-up Tiki bar; rather, Wiggins wants to offer guests a master class on rum. Cocktails are still fun and whimsical, like the signature Yellowbelly, with rich aged Don Q Añejo rum, fresh ginger juice, coconut cream, falernum and local Big Heart Tea Co.’s Sunshine Dust.

You can also order a flight of sipping rums based on location (Barbados, Jamaica and Trinidad, for instance) or distillation (column still, pot still, or a combination). “They’re as complex, if not more so, as other spirits, and they really do have the terroir of where they’re from,” Wiggins says. “Island to island, it really has a completely different profile.”

4643 lindell Blvd., St. louis, missouri, yellowbellystl.com

The Golden Girl rum Club SPRINGFIELD, MO. When customers walk into The Golden Girl Rum

TikiCaT

Club in springfield, Missouri, they often say they don’t want anything sweet. that’s not a problem for bar manager rogan howitt. he’s used to explaining that whatever they order – from the popular Mai tai to the trini dat boi with angostura bitters and overproof rum – will be perfectly balanced. “We do some three- or four-ingredient daiquiris with crisp, lightly aged rums,” howitt says, “then there are super funky overproofed Jamaican rums that work well when making [more complex] cocktails." in all, golden girl carries one of the largest rum selections in the region, with more than 160 different options; you can sip them in a flight, including one designed for whiskey-lovers.

KANSAS CITY. tucked in the basement below popular craft-beer bar hopCat lies the Polynesian-themed TikiCat, decked out with thatched-roof rooms and a bamboo-covered bar. nationally renowned tiki bar-owner and author Martin Cate consulted on the initial cocktail menu, which is stocked with classics like the Painkiller and a daiquiri. try Puka Pumba’s Paradise Punch, with three types of rum, apricot liqueur, allspice dram, coconut water, fresh pineapple and lime juices, and orgeat and demerara syrups. tikiCat also offers more than 40 sipping rums. "it’s been really fun to open up the eyes of people in kansas City to how much fun [rum] can be," says bartender trenton Layne.

137 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, thegoldengirl.com

401 Westport Road, Kansas City, Missouri, tikicatkc.com

On

ne

n eO O

como q&A

Stone Hill Winery, the Missouri original since 1847

tzuyang chao co-owner bubblecup tea zone Written by Katherine herricK

|

PhotograPhy by Keith borgmeyer

COLUMBIA, MO. Last month, tzuyang chao, co-owner of Bubblecup Tea Zone in columbia, missouri, opened a second location with his wife, yiching Lin. they took over the ninth Street boba tea shop last year before expanding to south columbia. the new bubblecup is designed to foster more of the café atmosphere that taiwanese bubble-tea shops offer, serving an expanded menu as well. bubble tea originated in taiwan, where chao grew up; he based his recipes on traditional taiwanese flavors, and imports all of his ingredients to give bubblecup’s drinks the authentic flavor he remembers.

What inspired you to open a second location? We took over the store from the previous owner in June 2017, and we grew really fast in a year. We have more customers than before – almost double the amount. the two most important things for me are quality and customer service, but when we have too many people in the current store with the small space, it's hard to maintain the quality and service. that's why we opened another location, which is three times bigger than the current store. What’s your vision for the new shop? the second store is focused on south-side residents, and there will be lot of free parking space, which is better than downtown. i also tried to create an atmosphere that’s similar to a café, even though we don't serve coffee but tea. So we treat ourselves like a “teafé”!

Tell us about the menu. For our drink menu, we have four

categories: brewed tea, milk tea, slush and snow. The most interesting drink is our watermelon milk tea; it’s our summer special, and it’s a traditional drink you see everywhere in Taiwan. at first, when people

Try our new dry red blend from the depths of our cellars!

OZARK HELLBENDER

heard about it, they always said it didn’t sound like a good combination. but when they try it, they always come back again and again to get it. the most popular drink is taro milk tea or snow. taro is a root similar to a sweet potato, but its flavor is totally different. its natural color is purple, and the taste is more like vanilla bean. the most traditional drink, of course, is the classic boba milk tea. it’s just black tea with non-dairy creamer and tapioca boba. if people have never had boba tea before, we always tell them to try the most classic and traditional first. What kind of food do you offer at the new shop? For our second location, we provide a lot of asian-style snacks: many kinds of noodle soups, fried popcorn chicken and a lot of other plates. Why is it important to you to bring Taiwanese culture to Columbia? i’ve been here for five years, and i want to say that the people here are really open-minded and friendly to others. bringing the [taiwanese] culture here will make missouri more diverse and give more opportunities for people to learn about other cultures. multiple locations, Columbia, Missouri, bubblecuptea.com

STO NE HI LLWI NE RY. COM Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.

Maypop coffee & Garden Shop Story anD photography by Mabel Suen

WEBSTER GROVES, MO. a unique new gathering place in Webster groves, Missouri,

features flowers, refreshments and more. Maypop Coffee & Garden Shop – which gets its name from the colloquial term for the passion flower vine – showcases the versatility and beauty of plants alongside locally curated beverages and goodies. Maypop’s menu features local blueprint Coffee for its espresso drinks, drip coffee, cold brew and pour

overs; additional options include teas from local big heart tea Co., as well as juice, kombucha and more. housemade syrups in flavors such as vanilla, chocolate and hibiscus are also on offer to make refreshing sips like hibiscus lemonade. Food includes from-scratch snacks from living room such as parfaits, pastries and picnic-friendly packs. guests can enjoy any of the above throughout Maypop’s colorful compound, which includes everything from edible food crops and flowers to tree and succulents.

803 Marshall Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, maypopshop.com

dale hollow winery Written by liz Miller photography by anthony JinSon

STOVER, MO. When brothers Jesse

and asher Dale and their wives, Katy and ana, founded Dale Hollow Winery in Stover, Missouri, in 2013, building a family business was always a part of the plan. Jesse and asher’s parents, Kenny and beth, owned the first five acres used for the initial vine plantings; throughout the years, the family has had to teach themselves the basics of grape-growing and winemaking. their hard work has paid off, though: Dale hollow was an instant hit, drawing locals and tourists alike for wines like the dry Knockout red blend, off-dry Vignoles and St. Vincent, which Jesse likens to a pinot noir. Stop in the tasting room for a bottle – beth and Katy collaborate on the labels – to pair with local snacks like Cheddar cheese from hemme brothers Creamery, beef sticks from White angus ranch and summer sausage from Coyote Creek ranch.

314 E. First St., Stover, Missouri, dalehollow.wordpress.com

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The Savoy aT 21c Written by Jenny Vergara

|

photography by anna petroW

KANSAS CITY. after a years-long renovation, one of the oldest restaurants in Kansas

City, the Savoy grill, unveiled itself earlier this summer as The Savoy at 21c. the swanky new restaurant features a dining room, lounge and private event space. this revamped classic preserves the original restaurant’s 1903 Wild West-inspired murals in the lounge, gorgeous stained-glass windows and the “presidents’ booth” that was a favorite of presidents truman, Ford and reagan. bar director Dominic petrucci’s cocktail list consists of five “heritage” cocktails that are then mirrored in exciting new ways on the “vogue” side of the menu: a classic bee’s Knee’s becomes an intriguing Cat’s Kimono with gin, shiso, broiled lemon and turmeric. the tailored wine list features sparkling, red, white, rosé and orange selections, plus an apéritif list to start and some fortified wines to finish. a creative beer list, nonalcoholic tea-biotics kombuchas, thou Mayest coffee and hugo teas round out the offerings. Chef Joe West delivers a small yet memorable bar menu, including steamed mussels, a dry-aged double steak burger and steak frites.

219 W. Ninth St., Kansas City, Missouri, thesavoykc.com

TasteSTL.com

Park Central Market Written by Katherine herricK

|

phOtOgraphy by ana elliOtt

SPRINGFIELD, MO. Whether you need to fuel up or wind down, grab a drink from Park Central Market; it’s the ultimate convenience store in Springfield, Missouri. in addition to a wide variety of caffeinated drinks, the market serves freshly brewed ronnoco coffee co., iced coffee and cappuccino, freshly brewed teas and a selection of 24 fountain drinks. the market also carries a variety of bottled soft drinks from uncommon brands in funky flavors like agave-vanilla cream and tarragon-black cherry. but, if you’re past the point of needing caffeine for the day, you can explore the rotating selection of craft beers. the market carries a variety of brews, from local favorites from Mother’s brewing co., Springfield brewing co. and White river brewing co., in addition to regional brands, such as Schlafly beer and boulevard brewing co. Whatever you need, park central Market has you covered.

311 Park Central East, Suite 100, Springfield, Missouri, theparkcentralmarket.com

SEPT 14-16 : : CHESTERFIELD The Ultimate Food Experience STELLA ARTOIS CHEF BATTLE ROYALE SYNERGY WEALTH SOLUTIONS’ RESTAURANT ROW THE VILLAGE Artists, creators and finders

KIDS’ KITCHEN presented by SCOPE

MUSIC STAGE THE MARKET

n a rt i sa ct produ

jack stack barbecue's jack’s smokin’ mary bloody mary mix Written by Katherine herricK

KANSAS CITY. a bloody Mary becomes a Smokin’ Mary with Jack Stack Barbecue’s new version of the classic cocktail mix. its smoky, spicy flavor comes from Jack Stack’s Original barbecue Sauce blended into the all-natural, housemade mixer. the Jack Stack team serves it with UV Sriracha vodka and olives stuffed with burnt ends in a glass with a bacon-salt rim. try it in the restaurant, or purchase a bottle on-site or online.

jackstackbbq.com

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Story, recipe and photography by becky hardin

Apple Butter Old FAshiOned SerVeS | 1 |

2 2 ¼ 2 1½

Tbsp apple butter dashes aromatic bitters cup apple cider oz bourbon oz club soda coarse sugar, to serve apple slices, for garnish cinnamon sticks, for garnish

| preparation | in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine apple butter, bitters, apple cider and bourbon and shake vigorously.

Spread sugar on a shallow plate and dip the rim of a rocks glass in water. press rim into sugar to coat; pour apple butter mixture into glass over ice and top with club soda. garnish with apple slices and cinnamon sticks and serve.

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Apple Butter Old FAshiOned When I was little, apple butter was a staple in our house in the fall. My mom, Susie, is practically famous for her homemade apple butter. Childhood wouldn’t have been the same without the aroma of apples and cinnamon cooking in the kitchen. As an adult, I’ve tried to incorporate apple butter into all sorts of recipes, spreading it on pork chops and burger buns, but my favorite way to use apple butter creatively is in a cocktail.

This Apple Butter Old Fashioned is classic in nature with a fun fall twist. Apple butter adds a creamy and buttery texture to the drink; a sprinkle of cinnamon and apple cider brings the flavors together. It’s essentially autumn in a glass: There’s nothing better than sipping this cocktail by a fire on a cool fall evening.

Becky Hardin is the recipe developer, photographer and writer behind thecookierookie.com.

Her work has been featured on sites such as The Huffington Post, The New York Times and Better Homes and Gardens. Her recipes and photography have been featured in print in publications such as Women's World Magazine, Redbook and Family Circle. She is a self-taught cook who loves to create recipes anyone can make and everyone will love.

on The shelf : sePTember PIcks

WINE

Aubrey VineyArds’ 2016 premier ChAmbOurCin written by HiLary HedGes

Provenance: overland Park, Kansas PaIrIngs: Sausage pizza • Pulled-pork tacos • Smoked ribs

inside Vinyl renaissance record store in downtown overland Park, Kansas, you’ll find the Aubrey Vineyards tasting room, where Premier Chambourcin is the top-selling wine. the Chambourcin was aged in stainless steel to allow its berry notes to shine; the result is a light-bodied wine with bold fruits, like plum and blackberry, and a smooth finish. while it’s dry, the fruit-forward flavors and soft tannins make it approachable. it’s an ideal wine to enjoy this month as we transition from warm-weather favorites to bigger, bolder reds in the winter. aubrey Vineyards’ wines are available in its tasting room, at select retailers in the Kansas City area and online.

Catering and Meats

2018

BEST WINERY St. Louis region

BY THE POUND

aubreyvineyards.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

call to book

your party today

314-588-7313

Come enjoy the experience!

party@stlpaddyos.com u urbAn Chestnut b brewing CO.'s stAmmtisCh written by Justin P PHeLPs

sT sTyle: German Pilsner (5.4% abV) PaIrIngs: Fish tacos • Mild Cheddar • Buffalo wings Pa

For wedding & events info@wildsunwinery.com For the latest, including our weekend music line-up, follow us

St. Louis’ original

baseball bar 618 s. 7th St | st. louis, mo

stlpaddyos.com for more details

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsun.com

b brewing a mixture of traditional and modern craft beer styles, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. has become a regional favorite since opening in 2011. stammtisch, a German Pilsner, is part of the brewery's reverence series, its traditional line of beer. Made with only German hops and Pilsner malts, the hop aroma comes through as floral with a soft spiciness. the flavors of this easy-drinking golden beer offer a subtle bitterness to complement the light biscuit notes from the malt. it's a great beer to try if you’re looking to ease into the world of craft beer. urbanchestnut.com Justin Phelps is a Certified Cicerone® and the founder of saintbrewis.com, a website dedicated to covering current events and trends happening in the St. Louis craft-beer scene.

SPIRIT

1220 ArtisAn spirits’ Origin gin written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: st. Louis (42.5% abV) Try IT: in a classic Martini

4 Hands brewing Co. has branched out from beer; earlier this year, the st. Louis brewery launched 1220 Artisan Spirits. the distillery's first offering, origin Gin, gives us a welcome taste of things to come. it is, of course, botanically inspired: you see the typical juniper (Croatian, here), coriander, and orris root, with some lesser-known ingredients like bergamot orange and neroli, an essential oil made from the blossom of the bitter orange tree. it packs a punch. also notable is that the base used here is not the usual grain – instead, it’s 75 percent grape. interesting and sublimely drinkable, if origin is typical of what 1220 will offer, i can’t wait to see what's next.

1220spirits.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.

CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING

Mo n d a y -Fr i d a y S e r v i n g : Br e a k f a s t 7 -1 1 a m Lu n c h 1 1 a m -3 p m Ha p p y Ho u r 3 - 6 p m Di n n e r b e g i n n i n g a t 5 p m n i g h t l y Sa t u r d a y & Su n d a y Br u n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m No w Bo o k i n g Pr i v a t e Di n i n g & Ca t e r i n g Or d e r To - Go , Wh o l e Pi e s , & Ba ke s h o p Sp e c i a l t i e s 4646 J C Nichols Pkwy Kansas City, MO (816) 541-3382 www.r yekc.com Complementar y Garage Parking or Valet Optional

*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800 Inspired Local Food Culture

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ChesterďŹ eld 633 Spirit of St. Louis Blvd. 636.519.1611 Maryland Heights 11585 Lackland Rd. 314.677.6713 beckallencabinetry.com

rind remix

Quick watermelon-rind pickles pack a punch thanks to a brine brimming with serrano pepper and candied ginger on p. 40. photography by jennifer silverberg

heaLthY aPPetite

Story and recipe by amanda elliott photography by drew pieSter

Crispy riCe Bowls ServeS | 4 to 6 | LentiLs

2 1 2 1 2 2 ½ 7

Tbsp olive oil white or yellow onion, small dice cups beluga lentils cup golden raisins tsp salt tsp cumin tsp crushed red chile flakes cups water

Rice

4 Tbsp canola oil 4 cups cooked brown or white rice 1 Tbsp dried dill salt and freshly ground black pepper

PickLed Red onion

1 1 1 ¹⁄₃ ½

red onion, julienned cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp kosher salt cup granulated sugar tsp coriander seeds

YoguRt sauce

2 7 1 1 1 1 1

cups Greek yogurt cloves garlic, grated Persian cucumber, grated Tbsp dried dill tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper Tbsp horseradish

cucumbeRs

6 Persian cucumbers, large dice 1 Tbsp olive oil ½ tsp crushed red chile flakes salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation – lentils | in a medium saucepot over medium heat, heat oil.

Sauté onion for 3 to 5 minutes. add remaining ingredients; simmer for 40 minutes and remove from heat.

| preparation – rice | in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. cook 10 minutes; set aside.

| preparation – pickled red onion| in a canning jar, add onions. in a small saucepot over medium heat, heat remaining ingredients until sugar and salt dissolve. pour mixture over onions and let sit for at least 10 minutes.

| preparation – yogurt sauce | in a small mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and set aside.

| preparation – cucumbers | in a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and set aside.

| to serve | divide rice among 4 to 6 serving bowls and top each with equal portions of pickled red onion, yogurt sauce, cucumbers and lentils. Serve. %PG

feastmagazine.com

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Crispy riCe Bowls With Pickled Red OniOn and YOguRt Sauce

this recipe was inspired by tah dig, a persian rice dish with a golden crust and beautiful balance of textures. i wanted to develop a quicker, simpler version of the rice in this dish and add some new elements for more depth of flavor and freshness. the result includes lentils braised with golden raisins for a little sweetness, plus yogurt sauce with a hint of spice from the horseradish. this crispy rice bowl is easy to assemble and can be enjoyed for breakfast, lunch or dinner – i especially love it with a poached or sunny-side up egg on the top.

Amanda Elliott is the chef at Peachtree Catering (peachtreebanquet.com) in Columbia, Missouri, and authors the website Rustic Supper (rusticsupper.com), where she shares recipes centered on the idea of the communal table and embracing the heritage of food through travel. She also hosts a series of pop-up dinners in Columbia called Sunday Suppers.

The Fairy Princess

Share holiday wiSheS with the Fairy Princess, enjoy holiday music, craFts, and take home a sweet treat.

Create fast, delishious, artisan pizza.

For gas stove tops

december 7, 14 3:00 to 7:00 p.m. december 8, 9, 15, 16 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. *purchasing tickets in advance is required

Celebrate Kansas City’s beloved Fairy PrinCess tradition

kansas City museum at the historic Garment district | 816.513.0726 | kansascitymuseum.org

For outdoor grills

For restaurant charbroilers

Open Monday Nights “Martini Mondays” $5 Martini’s all night 325 S Main St, St CharleS, MO 63301 636-724-3434

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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meet: Watermelon rind story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Pickled Watermelon rind These pickles pack a punch courtesy of the serrano pepper: If you’d like to tone it down, substitute a fresh jalapeño or Fresno chile for half the heat. yields

| 2 32-oz canning jars |

1½ 1½ 1¼ ¹⁄₃ 2 1 1 1 2½

cups white wine vinegar cups water cups granulated sugar cup candied ginger, finely chopped cinnamon sticks, broken in half Tbsp kosher salt tsp allspice berries tsp black peppercorns lbs watermelon rind, dark skin peeled, ¼-inch red flesh left on, diced into 1-inch chunks 1 serrano chile, sliced into thin rounds

What Is It? pickled watermelon rind is a classic southern preserve that dates back to the civil war, when the rind was brined and then soaked in vinegar and spice. i think it’s the best summer snack ever, hitting all the right notes: sweet, sour and spicy. it’s refreshing with a twang, and the perfect transition from summer to early autumn.

to a cheese tray – try it with a strong cheddar or fresh goat cheese – and chopped up, it perfectly complements pork, lamb or a meaty fish like halibut or cod. for an easy appetizer, try bacon-wrapped watermelon rind pickles. Use them in crunchy cabbage salads or add a little sass to your sandwiches and wraps by layering a generous dose of the chopped pickles in with the rest of your ingredients.

What do I do WIth It? just eating pickled watermelon rind out of hand is a solid choice; i’ll readily admit to sneaking a few pieces right out of the jar on my way through the kitchen. it’s a stunning addition

pickled watermelon rind can be difficult to find unless you head south, but it's easy to make at home. some people shave off every speck of fruit before pickling, but i like to leave the red tips on, giving the preserves beautiful color and flavor.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

| preparation | in a large saucepan over high heat, add vinegar, water and sugar; stir until sugar dissolves. add ginger, cinnamon sticks, salt, allspice berries and peppercorns. bring to a boil, remove from heat, and add watermelon rind; set aside to cool for 30 minutes. divide serrano rounds between 2 32-ounce canning jars; divide watermelon rind and other ingredients evenly between jars. pour liquid over rind until covered and let cool to room temperature; seal lids tightly and refrigerate.

Pork tenderloin and Watermelon rind WraPs

Visit feastmagazine.com for a recipe for soy-ginger pork tenderloin, which can be substituted for grilled pork tenderloin.

serves | 8 |

²⁄₃ cup mayonnaise 2½ Tbsp sambal oelek juice of 2 limes 8 medium wraps or tortillas 4 cups napa cabbage, shredded 2 lbs grilled pork tenderloin, thinly sliced 4 medium carrots, ribboned with a vegetable peeler 2½ cups pickled watermelon rind, roughly chopped 1 bunch scallions, sliced vertically into thin strips 1 bunch fresh mint, chiffonade 1 bunch fresh cilantro, chiffonade sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 limes, quartered

| preparation | in a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, sambal oelek and lime juice until combined; refrigerate. spread a layer of mayonnaise mixture on wraps. layer next 4 ingredients on top; top with more mayonnaise mixture if desired and season with salt and pepper. serve wraps alongside extra mayonnaise and limes.

because summer isn’t really over if there’s still watermelon lying around.

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get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., sept. 19, at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RsVP at nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Shrimp, Scallop and peach ceviche serves | 4 | Shrimp and ScallopS

1 lb shrimp (16/20 count), peeled and deveined, sliced into ¼-inch pieces 1 lb bay scallops, sliced into ¼-inch pieces zest of 1 lime ¹⁄₃ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice ¹⁄₃ cup freshly squeezed lime juice ¹⁄₃ cup freshly squeezed orange juice

peacheS

2

2 2 ¼

medium peaches, peeled, sliced into ¼-inch pieces finely diced serrano chiles finely diced shallots cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped, plus more for garnish kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

to Serve

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 to 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil plantain chips or pita bread

| preparation – shrimp and scallops| in a large mixing bowl, add shrimp and scallops. toss with lime zest and citrus juices and let marinate for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. strain shrimp and scallops and transfer to a small bowl; reserve juice marinade in a separate large mixing bowl and set aside. refrigerate for 1 to 1½ hours before serving; remove from refrigerator 5 minutes before serving.

| preparation – peaches | in reserved large mixing bowl with juice marinade, combine peaches, serrano chiles, shallots and cilantro and season with salt and pepper; toss gently to combine.

| to serve | in a large serving bowl, combine shrimp and scallops with peach mixture and toss to combine. season with salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with olive oil, garnish with reserved cilantro and serve with plantain chips or pita bread.

quick fix

Shrimp, Scallop and peach ceviche

In this class, you’ll learn how to upgrade classic mashed potatoes with fresh avocado. You’ll also learn how to make a fudgy version of brigadeiro, a traditional Brazilian dessert made with condensed milk.

popular throughout latin america, ceviche is simply raw fish or seafood marinated in citrus juice. it's especially common in countries that border the pacific coast, including peru, where it’s considered the national dish. ceviche is technically uncooked fish, as no heat is used in its preparation. by marinating it in juice with citric acid, you change the proteins and alter their chemical and physical properties, making it safe to consume. here we’re using grapefruit, orange and lime juices to make shrimp, scallop and peach ceviche; shrimp and peaches are a classic ceviche pairing, and this recipe helps you make the most of peach season before it comes to an end this month.

chef’s tip

the Menu

ceviche 101. the best fish to use for ceviche are typically sea bass, striped bass, grouper, sole or flounder, as their semi-firm flesh and more neutral flavor stand up well to marinating. freshwater fish like trout don’t work as well; definitely stay away from oily fish like tuna or mackerel.

• Peruvian Quinoa Salad • Shrimp, Scallop and Peach Ceviche • Salsa-Glazed Baked Fish • Mashed Potatoes With Avocado • Brazilian Fudge Brigadeiro

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

LET YOUR GROCERIES PAY YOU BACK (INCLUDING BEER, WINE AND SPIRITS!)

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television.

Check your local listings for airdates..

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

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story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer

RosemaRy-olive oil Challah Be sure to buy the correct yeast – instant rapid-rise, not active dry. Also pay close attention to the temperature of your water: Too hot and the yeast dies, too cool and it will never proof. yields

| 1 loaf |

Egg Wash

1 egg 2 Tbsp heavy cream

challah Dough

2 1½ 1 1 ½ 3 1 2

cups plus 1 Tbsp bread flour tsp instant rapid-rise yeast tsp kosher salt Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely minced cup water, heated to 120°F to 130°F egg yolks Tbsp honey Tbsp olive oil

| preparation – egg wash| in a large mixing bowl, whisk together egg and heavy cream until combined; refrigerate until ready to use.

| preparation – challah dough | in a small mixing bowl, stir together flour, yeast, salt and rosemary; set aside. line a sheet tray with parchment paper and set aside. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with dough hook attachment, add warm water, egg yolks, honey and olive oil. top with dry ingredients and mix on low speed for 2 minutes, then increase speed to medium for 4 minutes.

Form finished dough into a rectangle approximately 6 inches wide by 9 inches long. cut into 3 long strands, 2-by-9-inches. cover dough with a tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. roll each dough strand into a 15-inch log. pinch 3 strands together at the top, then begin braiding: left strand to center, right strand to center and so on, repeating until dough is fully braided. pinch the end of the strands together and fold both pinched ends underneath loaf. transfer challah to parchment paper-lined sheet tray and brush entire loaf with about half of egg wash, taking care not to let it pool too much in the crevices of the braid. proof at room temperature for 1 hour until nearly doubled in size. preheat oven to 400°F. once challah has doubled in size, brush loaf with egg wash once more. bake for 20 to 25 minutes until dark, golden brown; serve with fresh jam and honey.

RosemaRy-olive oil Challah rosh hashanah, the jewish new year, is celebrated each autumn with feasts of challah, honey-dipped apples and pomegranates and more; these treats bring well wishes for a sweet year to come. challah is an enriched yeast bread that makes wonderful toast with jam, as a base for French toast or simply eaten warm from the oven with honey. there are many different shapes and braiding techniques for challah, including the traditional rounds for rosh hashanah. here, i describe a simple three-strand braid that’s good for beginners. after dividing the dough into three strands, you braid it just like you would hair: left strand to center, right strand to center and so on until you’re finished. challah is often sprinkled with seeds before baking, like sesame, but i enjoy this seedless version as is.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

SERVING RESTAURANTS since 1973

CLASSIC COCKTAIL PARTY The 7th Annual Classic Cocktail Party will be held in conjunction with the last Concert in the Park with the Jeremiah Johnson Band in Lafayette Square Park on Sept. 8th from 6-9pm. Local distilleries will feature signature cocktails.

LOCAL

AUTHENTIC FAMILY

www.oletyme.com

314.436.5010

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL This Year We are Celebrating 9/11~The Gin Room’s Casino Royale Night 9/12~ Cocktails in the Courtyard Spirits of St. Louis’ 10th Anniversary Party 9/15 ~ Urban Distillery Trail—Trailnet 9/16 ~ Yoga & Bloodys in Lafayette Square Park

For information: www.facebook.com/ StLouisCraftSpiritsCocktailWeek or info@spiritsofstlouisdistillery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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OISHI

SUSHI AND STEAKHOUSE

721 N NEW BALLAS RD. • CREVE COEUR, MO • 314-567-4478 SUSHI ONLY

46

100 PUBLIC WORKS DR. • CHESTERFIELD, MO • 636-530-1198 OISHISTL . COM

feastmagazine.com

/ OISHISUSHISTEAKHOUSE

septem ber 2 0 1 8

@ OISHISTL

| 49 |

wildest streams

Whether you’re a seasoned fly fisher or new to the sport, it’s easy to catch your next meal at Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch.

| 54 |

what’s cooking?

A new culinary destination takes shape near St. Louis at The Inns at St. Albans.

| 60 |

behind the vine

Get hands-on in the vineyard and explore how wine is made in the cellar during harvest season at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard in Potosi, Missouri.

PhoTo oF PEACh ConSERVA (P. 54) BY judd dEMALInE

special advertising section Join the St. Louis Post-Dispatch for the inaugural

PR OM OT ION

coming in the september issue!

The

GourmenT KiTche

Living & Cooking

BENEFITING OVER 200 LOCAL CHILDREN’S CHARITIES PRESENTED BY

tic details ches, drama ices Trendy tou e color cho and creativ hen into kitc r you n can tur e. hom at a haven

MO

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isto bet han y chr wri tte n by

R and TecH says Judy Bilyeu, ld and HOT cOLOes revolve around color choices, Springfie & MoRE in rs

lianc colo nCES trends in app TRo APPLiA ze are just a few of the newn The hottest ctor at ME et bron a boo keting dire less and suns gy has seen corporate mar black stain nce technolo her with ouri. “slate, the dishwas kitchen-applia Joplin, Miss ing . she adds on and start think says oven start she the ld ket,” turn ners shou on the mar capability to a g, homeow well, with the now include mand. in sprin recently, as ons, this can e.com a voice com to grill opti a phone or ncesandmor e: in addition the touch of metroapplia and more. outdoor spac g tap r radin bee about upg , refrigerator, ice machine dishwasher,

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STL

e and go, Trends com nal and rd transitio move towa the y design in contemporar been steadily kitchen has s and several year growing for with a solid lead ge now holds seeking a chan homeowners recent ording to a in style. acc rmed zz and confi study by Hou l experts at by the loca TRY,

WHEN: September 29 | Match starts at 4 p.m.; Gates open at 3 p.m.

WHERE: Kräftig Polo Club | Defiance, MO WHAT: Watch Team “Imo’s” take on Team “Kräftig” WHY: To benefit over 200 local children’s charities Tickets available at STLtoday.com/ourevents

n CABinE BECk/ALLE sophisticated

and cleaner lines and the gray stain finishes, like in this doors seen aluminum er’s pleted butl recently com here to are is, Lou pantry in st. om ncabinetry.c stay. beckalle

Fall is an ideal time to consider home improvement. The kitchen is the heart of the home, so Feast Magazine is taking our readers inside kitchens to delve into where they cook.

This event features BBQ from Sugarfire Smokehouse, desserts by Andre’s Banquet and Catering, Liquid Spirits drinks, Stange Law Firm Kid’s Area with a bounce house and snow cones. Enjoy divot stomping with sparkling wine and chocolates from Cedar Lake Cellars and The Chocolate Pig. Relax in the Shubert Design Studio Lounge while Westview Media and Midwest BankCentre keep the score.

SPONSORED BY

As an advertiser, you can choose from the list of topics below and offer your expertise on living and cooking in a gourmet kitchen.

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Color Trends Flooring Lighting Appliances Outdoor Kitchens Interior Design Makeovers (Before /After) Dramatic Details (Pulls, Sink, Any Accessories)

Call 314-475-1298 for more information 48

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Whether you’re a seasoned fly fisher or new to the sport, it’s easy to catch your next meal at Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch.

hy ograp d p h ot n a y r r pe Sto Sa C o o by t e S

I

n a spring-fed stream just outside of Gainesville, Missouri, anglers stand in a veil of mist, their rods drawn, holding canteens of coffee. The only sounds are birds chirping and the whip of lines hooked with bait hitting the water – until a trout bites.

Water splashes and ripples dance through the stream as a fisherman reels in his catch.

It’s morning at Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch – known to some visitors as Rockbridge – a 2,000-plus acre resort in the Ozarks about 25 miles from the Missouri-Arkansas border.

Since 1954, thousands of people have retreated to the family-owned ranch, where cellphone reception is spotty at best and rainbow trout are plentiful. Second-generation owner Ray Amyx is usually the first person each morning to unlock the doors of the ranch’s old general store – once a hub for the now almost forgotten former town of Rockbridge – and gets the coffee and tea brewing. Ray has fond memories of growing up on the ranch and spending afternoons playing with his brother in their clubhouse, the property’s iconic red grist mill.

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“Growing up here was just about as good as it gets,” Ray says. “[My brother and I] were up and down the creek and all over the hillsides. There was no limit – who was going to say anything?”

In 1871, Ray’s distant relative, Capt. Kim C. Amyx, led a group of settlers nearly 500 miles in three ox- and horse-drawn wagons to start a new life in the Ozark wilderness. Previous settlers had already established the community of Rockbridge, where the Amyx family eventually put down roots. Today, the ranch is all that remains to honor the town's history.

Before opening the fishing ranch, Ray’s parents, Lile and Edith, purchased land just east of the lodge in 1945. A few years later, Ray’s uncle, Clay Amyx, bought the nearby general store. In 1954, Clay, Lile and Edith merged their land together and incorporated Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch. Lile bought Clay’s share of the property 12 years later, and Ray took over the family business in 1985.

The family began farming rainbow trout because of the robust spring-fed stream on the land; the water stays between 53ºF to 58ºF year-round, the ideal temperature for rainbow trout.

However, trout weren’t native to the stream, so the family began raising them on-site. Today, the ranch features a full hatchery, raising between 250,000 to 400,000 trout each year. As the ranch and fishing business has grown, so have guest accommodations: The resort began with just two cabins; it now boasts 29, plus eight rental houses. Despite its expansion over the years, the ranch is still in a remote area and remains a destination for its loyal guests.

“It’s the end of the blacktop, and back then, it was the end of the gravel road,” Ray says. “We’re still relatively small and prefer to keep it that way… We’re so lucky to be out here in the middle of nowhere and have the excellent employees to take care of our clients the way they do.”

fter visitors drive downhill through the shade of trees, guided by well-marked signs, they’ll find themselves at the old general store, where a knowledgeable front-desk employee waits to greet them. Front desk manager Lonnie Welch has met visitors from as far as Australia and Africa, but she says most people come from St. Louis and Memphis, Tennessee.

Ray estimates that at least 75 percent of visitors are repeat customers. Some guests are fourth-generation regulars.

Whether it’s a weekend getaway or five-night stay, the ranch has activities to keep all members of the family entertained. The property includes both catch-and-release and catch-and-keep fishing areas, a restaurant, a pub inside the 19th-century grist mill, a heated outdoor swimming pool and guided horseback riding. Hobby anglers who want to continue catching without breaking the bank can do so in the catch-and-release stream nearly year-round: The ranch is only closed five days a year for the Christmas holiday.

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Hatchery manager David Cahoon feeds young trout in the property's freshwater ponds.

Welch suggests that fly fishers bring waders with attached boots for colder temperatures, and rods, reels, and tackle are a must, although these items can also be purchased in limited quantities at the ranch store. Instructors are available for half day and full-day guided fishing. “A lot of people want a guide when they’re here,” Welch says. “It’s great to get pointers if you want to learn to fly fish, but you don’t have to have that… Fishing is pretty easy here, and the trout bite well.”

Prince nymph

For those who do prefer help, fishing guides teach casting tips and knot-tying pointers. Pablo Sanchez Jr., a fishing guide at the ranch, enjoys offering insider tricks for making the flies look more realistic. For example, he will sometimes tie rubber bands on the fly to mimic the look of long legs. Guides teach novices how to cast their fly line from the rod using prince nymphs – bait that imitates a small fly – and mimic the bugs that trout feed on near the surface.

Once your line is fitted with a prince nymph, you might learn a basic roll cast: Bring your rod straight up, swing your wrist forward to lay the line into the stream before slowly pulling it back toward you.

You then let the line settle in the water, and then finally swing the rod tip back into the deeper water.

With enough practice, the line travels further and further out. If you do get a nibble, your guide will help you slowly reel the trout in; by taking your time, you wear the fish out.

If visitors have trouble catching trout, Sanchez recommends paying close attention to where the fish are swimming. Sometimes it’s easy to blindly cast the line without watching the stream. However, once guests get the hang of it, he says it can quickly turn into a lifelong hobby. In an average season, the ranch teaches fly fishing to 150 to 200 people. “Catching a big trout on a fly [line] is a challenge itself,” Sanchez says. “When you [reel] it in, it just pumps you up and makes you want to keep going.”

If you’re lucky enough to hook a trout, you can take it home for just $4.65 a pound. According to Welch, the average trout weighed 2½ pounds per fish this summer, but some fish were as large as nine pounds. Ranch employees will even clean, store and insulate your catch for safe travels; if you're not staying overnight, catches can be boxed on ice. Or, at the restaurant, your fish can be cleaned, gutted, filleted and prepared for you.

Down at the fish house, the ranch’s full-scale hatchery, visitors can peer into divided sections of freshwater ponds to see the trout in various stages of growth. It takes about 18 months to raise a single trout to catchable size. Eggs are collected by stripping the female fish and are then raised until they hatch in cylinder incubators.

Once fish reach adult size, which is about 1¾ pounds, Dave Cahoon, fish house manager, loads nets full of trout into a water tank in a truck bed with the help of his team. Cahoon then drives to the nearby stream to stock it.

Although he only fills the stream with rainbow trout, occasionally a native sucker or bass will find its way into the stream and surprise a fly fisher. On average, the stream houses between 10,000 to 12,000 trout.

“Need more fish?” Cahoon shouts to Sanchez and a fly-fishing student right before he unplugs the hole of the trout carrier. Water pours from the truck and into the stream, carrying the fish along with it. The trout disperse through the clear water of the catch-and-keep stream. A few eager anglers stay to catch the new recruits, but it’s nearly lunchtime. In just a few minutes, the ranch restaurant will fill with hungry families.

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Monterey trout

Trout almondine

Broiled trout

anda Dalton has worked for Rainbow Trout & Game Ranch for more than 20 years; she started as a cook and worked her way up to kitchen manager. Today, she loves using her imagination to pair unexpected flavors together at the restaurant. Occasionally, Dalton will play around with ingredients just for fun, but if she creates a dish that she wants to add as a special, she’ll grab the nearest napkin and start taking notes.

Rainbow trout can have a drastically different flavor depending on how it’s prepared, she says; for those who prefer a sweeter flavor, she recommends the trout almondine, which is sautéed in amaretto and garnished with almonds and grapes.

“Definitely try the smoked trout, even if you don’t like fish,” Dalton says. “Nine times out of 10, people will like it no matter what.” The restaurant’s six-ounce portion of cold-smoked trout is garnished with red onion and served with dill cream cheese and crackers.

The ranch serves a range of other trout specialties, including broiled trout; grilled lemon-pepper trout; whole, boneless trout either baked, stuffed, pan-fried or salt-broiled; and seared blackened trout. Other must-try dishes at the restaurant include crab-trout cakes served with a spicy aïoli, batter-fried trout with clarified butter and lemon and a smoked trout salad sandwich on toasted marbled rye.

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The restaurant also boasts a full breakfast menu, featuring items like a breakfast wrap with scrambled eggs, grilled onions and peppers, Cheddar or pepper Jack cheese with smoked trout and a build-your-own-omelet with smoked trout.

Ray’s favorite dish is the broiled trout, but he also loves getting the catch of the day served on a bun. He’s never been afraid to try new trout dishes, even as a child. “I wasn’t too picky, so I was the guinea pig,” he says with a laugh.

Like Ray, Dalton’s family has its own personal history with the ranch; her mother worked in the housekeeping department until retirement. “The owners and the people are very nice to work around,” Dalton says. “Ray’s family has always been super nice, and they’ve helped me no matter what. It’s a big family atmosphere.”

At its heart, the ranch is a family operation – for Ray and his relatives, Dalton and other employees, and also the generations of people who have learned to fly fish here. Year after year, families return to the ranch, including parents who grew up learning to fish in the streams who are now sharing the experience with their children. Set against the backdrop of the majestic and peaceful Ozark Mountains, the ranch endures as a retreat for those looking to get away, slow down and connect with nature, even if only for a few hours. rockbridgemo.com

Cornmeal-Crusted Trout With lemon-Caper remoulade The cornmeal crust here calls for Wondra flour, a granular flour that adds a light and crunchy texture. The trout only requires a few tablespoons of the lemon-caper remoulade; use the extra with everything from french fries to boiled shrimp. It will keep for 10 days in the fridge.

Recipe couRtesy chef adam weLLs-moRGan, chef-owneR, fLyoveR seRves | 4 |

Whether you catch your own fresh trout or purchase it from a local fishmonger, there are endless possibilities for how to cook the fish at home.

Here, three chefs from across Missouri share various ways to prepare trout: grilled with boiled potatoes and served with a tangy salsa verde; smoked, shredded and served with avocado, chive oil and more atop toasted bread; and battered in a cornmeal crust and fried to golden perfection.

lemon-CaPer remoulade 6 cups mayonnaise ½ cup green onions, sliced ½ cup Italian parsley, chopped 2 tablespoons honey 1½ whole lemons, peeled, seeded and chopped ¼ cup capers, drained 6 large garlic cloves 1 Tbsp kosher salt TrouT 8 ½ 2 1 ½ ½ 3 4

cups vegetable oil cup all-purpose flour Tbsp kosher salt cup buttermilk cup Wondra flour cup cornmeal Tbsp Creole blackening seasoning boneless trout fillets

| preparation – lemon-caper remoulade | in a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and blend together using an immersion blender. Refrigerate until ready to serve. | preparation – trout | in a deep saucepan over medium-high heat, heat vegetable oil to 350°f using a candy thermometer. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.

Trota Con Salsa Verde This incredibly simple dish is popular on the lunch and brunch menus at Lidia’s Kansas City. Once the salsa verde is assembled, the rest is quick to prepare.

Recipe couRtesy Lidia Bastianich, chef-owneR, Lidia’s Kansas city seRves | 4 |

SalSa Verde 2 oz dried poblano chile powder ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup roasted red peppers, finely minced ½ cup Italian parsley leaves, minced ½ cup red onion, minced ¼ cup gherkin pickles, finely diced ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 hard-boiled egg, shelled and minced 2 Tbsp capers, drained and minced salt and freshly ground black pepper PoTaToeS and TrouT 12 to 15 medium Yukon gold potatoes, halved 3 bunches green onions, washed and trimmed salt and freshly ground black pepper extra virgin olive oil 8 fillets rainbow trout, 3 to 4 oz each lemon wedges (for garnish) Italian parsley leaves (for garnish)

| preparation – salsa verde | in a medium mixing bowl, stir together all ingredients except salt and pepper. season with salt and pepper. set aside at room temperature.

| preparation – potatoes and trout | in a large stockpot over medium heat, bring enough water to cover potatoes to a boil.

Boil potatoes in salted water until just tender. drain and set aside to cool. preheat a gas or charcoal grill. in a large mixing bowl, combine potatoes and green onions and season with salt and pepper; brush lightly with olive oil. season trout fillets with salt and pepper and lightly brush with olive oil.

Grill potatoes, sliced-side down, and green onions. potatoes are finished cooking when browned and crispy and green onions are wilted. Remove to a serving platter.

Grill trout fillets flesh-side down until almost cooked through; flip fillets and grill 1 minute more. arrange trout and potatoes on a serving platter and sauce fish with salsa verde. Garnish with lemon wedges and italian parsley leaves; serve.

while oil is heating, separate all-purpose flour and kosher salt in one shallow mixing bowl, buttermilk in a second shallow mixing bowl and cornmeal, wondra flour and creole blackening seasoning in a third shallow mixing bowl. to bread trout fillets, start by dipping them into the flour bowl, then the buttermilk, then the cornmeal. fry battered trout fillets in saucepan for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown, taking care not to overcrowd pan. when trout is slightly floating to the top of saucepan, strain fillets from oil and transfer to prepared paper-towel lined plate to soak up excess oil. pat fillets lightly with paper towels and transfer to a serving platter; top trout with lemon-caper remoulade to taste and serve.

Smoked Trout Tartine With zesty lime juice, smooth avocado and briny pickled onions, the smoked trout tartine at Olio in St. Louis is packed with bold flavor. Look for smoked trout at your local grocery store’s seafood counter; if you don’t see it, request it from the fishmonger.

Recipe couRtesy Ben GRupe, executive chef, eLaia & oLio seRves | 2 |

ChiVe oil ¼ cup chives, roughly chopped 1 cup grapeseed oil Smoked TrouT TarTine 4 oz smashed avocado 2 1-inch thick slices challah bread, toasted Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper juice from 1 lime 8 oz smoked trout, shredded 2 oz pickled onions 2 oz pickled peppers 16 cucumber slices herb salad (combine parsley, mint and dill) chive oil (recipe below)

| preparation – chive oil | in the bowl of a blender, process chives and oil until smooth. in a small saucepot over medium-high heat, add chive oil and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly.

Remove oil from heat and strain into a heatproof container using a fine-mesh strainer. chill oil and keep refrigerated.

| preparation – smoked trout tartine | spread smashed avocado over challah and top with salt, black pepper and lime juice to taste. pile on smoked trout, pickled onions and peppers and cucumbers. Garnish with just enough herb salad to top tartine and lightly drizzle chive oil over top. store remaining chive oil in the fridge. finish with more salt and pepper to taste; serve.

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A new culinary destination takes shape near St. Louis.

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D

omenica Marchetti sprinkles some flour over the countertop. “The first thing you do when you make homemade pasta,” she says to her 14 pupils, “is you take off your jewelry.” The class chuckles, but the point is clear: making fresh ricotta gnocchi will be messy.

Marchetti unwraps cheesecloth from an airy ball of buttermilk ricotta, which her class made that very Saturday morning.

“Why don’t you guys watch me do it, and then you can get started. I want to be sure I can show you how to do it properly,” she says, instructing students to turn to page 215 of her cookbook, Preserving Italy, for the gnocchi recipe, which uses ricotta, a fresh Italian cheese, instead of potatoes. “Now,” she says, looking at the class from behind an instructor’s counter at the front of the classroom, “what I want to point out on the recipe, is it says about one cup of flour, plus more for the work surface, and as needed to stiffen the dough. The amount you’re going to add to the dough will really vary based on your ricotta, based on the humidity of the room – based on a lot of factors.” Marchetti says ricotta and gnocchi with an Italian accent, the result of summers spent with her mother, aunts and extended family in Italy.

Students are itching to touch their portions of buttermilk ricotta, yet watch Marchetti intently as she fluffs the soft cheese with a fork before mixing it with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, eggs, salt and white pepper, plus “a little grating of nutmeg.” When it’s all combined, she moves the ball of dough to her floured work surface, adds more flour to the countertop and begins to incorporate it into the dough.

She kneads effortlessly. True, the ricotta dough is much softer than bread or pizza dough, but it’s something the students realize they cannot replicate just yet; a few try her fluid rocking motion, but it’s better to focus less on doing exactly as the instructor does and try to get the hang of what works for them. Her technique comes from years of kneading: Watching her work, you understand why Marchetti says making pasta is therapeutic. She talks as she kneads, checking every once in a while to see how the dough is shaping up.

“The tomato sauce is bubbling away; you should go check it out after we’re done. It’s cooking down, but it’s got a way to go,” she says of the 70 pounds of tomatoes the class peeled and diced earlier in the afternoon for sauce to pair with the gnocchi; it’s simmering a few hundred feet away from the classroom in an industrial-sized pot in a commercial kitchen.

Now that they’ve watched Marchetti make her ricotta dough, students begin mixing up their own. “If there’s any tricky pasta recipe, this is it, because you really can’t measure the amount of flour,” Marchetti says. While students are kneading, cautiously sprinkling more flour as they go, Marchetti comes around to each cooking station to let them feel the texture of her dough. “It’s like a baby’s bottom!” a woman jokes, though it’s an apt description. The ricotta dough can’t be too dry, or the gnocchi will be too hard. Too wet, and the pasta will dissolve when boiled in water.

Once Marchetti is satisfied with everyone’s dough, she demonstrates how to cut off a piece with a pastry scraper, sprinkle it with more flour, and carefully roll it out into a finger-sized rope. Then, she cuts off little pillows, about three-fourths of an inch, and sprinkles them with flour again. The trickiest part of this generally tricky process seems to be the final stage. Marchetti holds up a fork so everyone can see, and rolls each gnocchi down the tines to give the pasta its signature indentations.

When all the gnocchi are rolled, they’re spread on a rimmed sheet pan. Marchetti will take them to the commercial kitchen to cook, but for the most part, they’re done. The class sighs: It’s almost time for dinner. After two days, peeling 70 pounds of local tomatoes, hand-cutting seven pounds of homemade pasta and rolling five pounds of ricotta into gnocchi, among other things, the hands-on part of the weekend has finally come to a close.

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do a big pan of eggplant Parm, this class will sell out.’ But I didn't want to do that. I want to teach people something that they might not know.”

This weekend, for her return, Marchetti is teaching from her 2016 book Preserving Italy, which, as the title implies, has a focus on canning, curing, infusing and bottling “Italian flavors and traditions.” So alongside learning to quick-pickle and use a pasta machine, Marchetti also teaches water-bath canning, an old-fashioned process that can be intimidating to those who’ve never done it – making it an ideal subject for cooking camp.

For Diane Miller, vice president of communications and marketing at the Inns at St. Albans, Marchetti was the perfect choice to head up the experimental new cooking classes.

“We weren’t shocked [they were popular], but we really didn’t know,” Miller says. “Will people come and do this? Will they get it? And then we were like, ‘Oh, OK, this is working!”

Miller first worked with Datra Herzog, who owns the Inns at St. Albans, in Jefferson City. Herzog convinced Miller, who lives in Washington, D.C., most of the time, to come out and help launch International Choux Co. in February as a way to make the Inns at St. Albans a destination instead of only a wedding venue.

“A lot of the places [and resorts] I visit – Blackberry Farm [in Walland, Tennessee,] in particular – their cooking schools are very popular, and it gives guests something to do,” Herzog says. “The amenities in St. Albans [are] limited, so we were looking for why people would come out to St. Albans and make it a destination.”

“I was surprised! I was optimistic, but I was so pleased when people started to really sign up for it,” Herzog says. “Even the great distances people were traveling. We’ve had people from San Diego, Arizona, Chicago – so people are really doing what we hoped, and seeing it as a destination.”

cooking school’s name, International Choux Co., is a nod to Irene TheJohnson, who first developed the St. Albans estate in the early 20th in late July when Marchetti instructed students Thehowweekend to make ricotta gnocchi wasn’t her first time in St. Albans, Missouri, just 35 miles west of St. Louis. (And, for the record, she likes St. Louis-style pizza.) Months earlier, in April, she taught the very first class at the new International Choux Co. at the Inns at St. Albans.

In February, International Choux Co. began offering weekend-long intensive classes in mastering seafood, cooking with the seasons, Italian preserving and seasonal desserts. The classes are playfully termed “culinary camps,” because each is a weekend-long, deep-dive into a given subject. Most camps feature a cookbook author giving students a look not only into their recipes but their cooking techniques, histories and just about anything else they couldn’t fit in their books. Including accommodations at the Inns – a beautiful, rustic venue often used for weddings and special events – a weekend runs around $500. Still, that’s certainly less than a week in Italy, and only an hour away from Downtown St. Louis. That's what brought Marchetti to St. Albans.

The author of seven cookbooks on Italian cooking and a former newspaper reporter based in Alexandria, Virginia, Marchetti focused that first course on a culinary tour of Abruzzo, Italy. The class took a tour of The Hill, St. Louis’ historically Italian-American neighborhood to select ingredients, and learned to make spaghetti alla chitarra and wood-fired pizza, both Abruzzi specialties. Marchetti’s mother grew up in Abruzzo, in central Italy, and Marchetti spent summers there as a girl. She now does food tours of the region, giving students an even more intensive window into regional Italian cooking. While some cooking instructors have a set program they teach at various venues, culinary camps are specifically designed in partnership with the Inns at St. Albans.

“I always do new stuff; I don’t often revisit,” Marchetti says of her teaching repertoire. “I’m always trying to slip in something authentically Italian that I think people won’t know about. I’ve had cooking schools tell me, ‘If you

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century. Her husband was Oscar Johnson, who founded what became the International Shoe Co. in St. Louis. At the time of his death in 1916, it was the largest shoe-manufacturing company in the world.

Two years later, Irene built a summer home at St. Albans now known as The Studio Inn, designed by Theodore C. Link, the architect of St. Louis Union Station. Today, guests – from bridal parties to cooking campers – can stay in the updated, six-bedroom mansion, which features a gourmet kitchen, sleeping accommodations for 12 and sweeping views of the village of St. Albans, the property’s vineyards and the Missouri River. (Four private cottages are also available for guests at the Old Barn Inn.)

Paintings by Missouri-based artist Bryan Haynes hang in The Studio Inn, commissioned by the Herzogs, depicting the history of St. Albans, from lush landscapes to Native Americans to Irene with her famous rose bushes. She planted 3,500 along the 10 miles of road that wind to the property; Herzog is quick to point out, with a laugh, though, that the wealthy Irene did this so she wouldn’t have to see the poorer parts of the countryside as she traveled to and from St. Albans. Irene even gained some national acclaim for her work at the farm.

“Mrs. Johnson is trying to make St. Albans Farm 100 percent patriotic in several ways,” wrote Missouri Woman magazine in 1918. “First, she is increasing the food supply; second, she is using girl-labor, thus releasing men for government service; third, she is canning all her surplus vegetables; fourth, she is preparing to increase the supply of wool by raising sheep.”

Irene grew the St. Albans farm throughout the 1920s and ’30s; at its peak, it boasted 7,500 acres of experimental agriculture, plus chickens, sheep, Duroc hogs, dairy cows and saddle horses. Irene maintained the farm until her death in 1954 at age 89, when it was then inherited by her sons.

In 2004, Herzog began leasing the Old Barn Inn and operated a restaurant there called the Gardens at Malmaison, which was open for regular dinner service. After purchasing it in 2013, she turned it into a special event-only venue. Today, she also owns the Head’s Store and The Studio Inn.

Learn old world-style cheesemaking techniques with Alison Penalver, the French cheese educator at Baetje Farms in Bloomsdale, Missouri.

Campers will make Feta cheese, infused oils, fresh chèvre, herb and spice blends, jam and fruit compotes, plus cheese brining and how to assemble a cheeseboard.

Conquer your fear of pie dough with Cathy Barrow, author of Pie Squared. Campers will make sweet and savory pies, pie crust, slab pie and traditional pie, plus learn to crimp, lattice and glaze.

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Ricotta gnocchi with classic tomato sauce

Miller is currently coordinating classes for next year, likely March through November, with some of the same instructors – Marchetti; Christine Burns Rudalevige, who taught cooking with seafood in April; and Sheri Castle, who taught cooking seasonally in July – but perhaps playing around with different formats or smaller classes as well as new instructors.

“It’s a deep-dive weekend; you want what’s not on the agenda,” Miller says.

“You’re talking, and that’s what I think is the best part of a cooking class.”

Herzog is also planning to construct a larger, fully functional cooking classroom for the 2020 season, with room for 25 students, a full commercial kitchen, an arsenal of tools for everyone and more. The current classroom can fit 16 students; any baking or freezing has to be done in the commercial kitchen at the Old Barn Inn, and students (and instructors) cook on induction stovetops.

“We definitely need a larger space; we were shocked. We really thought it would be three to five people [in a class], and they’re selling out,” Herzog says, noting that she’s currently working with an architect to determine where would be the best place on the property to build a new classroom.

Her recipe comes from Roberto Panizza, the literal Ambassador of Pesto of Genoa, Italy. Of course, technically only one specific type of basil makes true pesto Genovese, but tonight’s version with Missouri-grown basil is just as sharp and vibrant.

Understandably, some cooking campers are worried about how well pasta-making will go. “Now, I’m stressed!” jokes one, as Marchetti announces it’s time to take their dough and somehow transform it into delicious pasta.

Marchetti is patient, repeating tips as the class goes along, with students using their pasta machines for the first time. As she rolls her dough through the machine, gradually making it thinner and thinner, the students follow suit, albeit less sure of themselves.

“I’m at [setting] No. 7,” Marchetti says after a few minutes of feeding dough through the roller, “and I kinda like the consistency of this. It’s thin, but not too thin. You can kinda see the shadow of your hand through it.” She holds up a couple of feet of delicate pasta dough. “Make sure you’re flouring!” she reminds the class.

“Can you check this?” one student asks, sounding worried. “Mine is a little uneven.”

O

n Friday evening, students are hard at work preparing for the night’s dinner of crostini with sweet-and-sour peppers, capers and fresh mozzarella and trenette (noodles as wide as linguine but a tad thicker) with pesto Genovese.

While the bright red and yellow sweet peppers are marinating in pickling brine, Marchetti guides the group through preparing a quick and classic pesto.

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“That’s OK!” Marchetti assures everyone. “Making pasta is intuitive: The more you do it, the better you will get. The only way to get better at it is to keep doing it.”

An hour or so later, as cooking campers are chowing down on the surprisingly light plates of pasta, bright green with pesto and topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, they agree: They will be doing this again. innsatstalbans.com/cooking-school

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do it yourself

Get hands-on in the vineyard and explore how wine is made during harvest season at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard near

Potosi, Missouri.

S

tanding in the middle of a vineyard during harvest season is a sensory experience.

The grapes perfume the air with a floral aroma; the ripe fruit gleams in the late-summer sun. If you pluck a purple Chambourcin grape from the vine and pop it into your mouth, you’ll taste a jammy, earthy flavor; if you’re in a row of greenish-white Vignoles, you’ll pick up notes of citrus.

Depending on the year and grape varietal, harvesting can start as early as August in Missouri and usually runs through mid-October, so most days in the vineyard are hot and humid. During harvest at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard near Potosi, Missouri, you’ll hear the quick cut of harvester forks removing grape clusters from the vine before gently falling into large bins (or lugs, as they’re known to the initiated), as all of the grapes here are harvested by hand. You’ll also hear chatter and laughter as workers make their way through the rows, and the gentle hum of insects.

This is just a normal September morning at Edg-Clif, but for some first-time harvesters, it’s a rare opportunity to get a behind-the-scenes look at how a local vineyard and winery operates.

Edg-Clif's winery opened just seven years ago – and the vineyard was planted only two years before that – yet the land has been farmed by the same family for more than 90 years. The winery was founded by sisters Steffie Littlefield and Cyndy Keesee, alongside their husbands, Stephen and Girard, respectively. Today, Keesee is the winemaker, while Littlefield oversees everything from marketing to grape growing and coordinating classes on-site.

For the past five years, in addition to Edg-Clif's own workshops and tours, the winery has also hosted classes with the YMCA Trout Lodge & Camp Lakewood in Potosi – the second-largest YMCA campus in the country. Littlefield says the YMCA classes draw participants from across the country throughout the year; some workshops run a full week, with guests staying at Trout Lodge overnight, while others are day programs. Whether you're attending a harvesting class at Edg-Clif in partnership with the YMCA or one hosted solely by the winery, guests are in for a unique experience.

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Written by Liz MiLLer

While Littlefield heads up the tours and works with participants in the vineyard, Keesee educates them on how the grapes are used to make wine.

“We bring all the fruit in, explain to them how we weigh it, why it gets weighed – so we know how much fruit, how much juice we’re going to get from it,” Keesee says. “So they’re going to be watching us take the fruit from the lugs, go through the crusher/destemmer, and through a must pump into a tank.”

Keesee adds that although many class participants have attended tours of other wineries and vineyards in the past, she finds that discussing the winemaking process itself is often new information.

“I had a tour last Thursday, and over half of them raised their hands that yes, they’ve been on many winery tours,” Keesee says. “So I asked them, ‘How do you make wine?’ And they had no idea. We really try to give everyone a basic understanding of how wine is made, what the actual process is and how simple it really is so that they can go away with something tangible.”

“We’ve had people [join us for harvest] from Florida, Minnesota, California, Kansas, Illinois, Ohio, Indiana,” Littlefield says. “They just love being in the vineyard, working side by side with us, asking questions. Once they’ve seen the grapes, harvested them, seen them crushed and the tanks they go into, and then they taste the wine, they have a whole new understanding and appreciation for what’s in their glass.”

PHOTOS THIS PAGE By AIMEE WHITMIrE; PHOTO On OPPOSITE PAGE By CATHErInE nEVILLE

Grapes are usually harvested at Edg-Clif early in the morning, before the summer sun warms them. In general, when grapes are harvested, they immediately stop ripening, so when you pick the fruit at a colder temperature, the sugar levels are much more stable. “It affects the sugars and how much color is going to come out of the skins,” Keesee says.

"Once they©ve seen the grapes, harvested them, seen them crushed and the tanks they go into, and then they taste the wine, they have a whole new understanding and appreciation for what©s in their glass." ¯steffie littlefield, edg¯clif co¯founder

Edg-Clif makes a range of wines with its three grape varietals, although Chambourcin is used most prominently. “We make Chambourcin in a lot of different styles and ways, from rosés to barrel-aged reds to working on Ports,” Keesee says. “We do everything with that grape because it’s just so versatile and makes such nice wine.”

To make its dry rosé, for example, Chambourcin grapes are pressed off the skins immediately, fermented with a French yeast strain and aged in stainless steel to achieve flavors similar to Provence-style rosés. As a result of the grapes and specific yeast strain used, the rosé has a juicy, crisp, fruit-forward flavor.

Keesee shares with the classes her reasoning for using various yeasts to bring out different flavor profiles in wine, the difference between oaked and unoaked wines and how French-American hybrid grapes can be vinified to make both sweet and dry styles of wine.

Edg-Clif currently grows Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles, although the vineyard’s biggest crop is Chambourcin, which is grown on four acres. Littlefield says that people spend about three hours harvesting out in the vineyard and get to see first-hand how staff “baby the vines.”

“It’s something almost everybody can participate in and get that feeling of, ‘I’m harvesting the grapes that will make wine,’” Littlefield says. “I have so many people after an experience like this who say, ‘I want to buy that wine when it’s available.’”

Don and Audrey Schindler of St. Louis attended the first harvest event at Edg-Clif five years ago with friends. Don says it was their first time signing up for such a class, and the experience made them lifelong fans of the family-owned winery. Even though the Schindlers attended the harvest class several years ago, Don still vividly recalls the experience as fun and easy; the weather was unseasonably cool, which he remembers made the outdoor work even more enjoyable.

“We came away having a better feel as to the grapes, what we harvested and how they were processed,” Don says. “Before the vineyard experience, we didn’t even realize how [wine] grapes were grown. The harvest, it was an interesting and relatively easy process.”

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“They have no idea that there could be so many different yeast strains out there and how that all takes place; to them, yeast is yeast,” Keesee says. “That part is very fun. Most people, even though they know that yeast is ubiquitous in our environment, they don’t realize that you can just take a lug full of grapes and sit them out in the sun and they’ll start fermenting right there and then. Those are the kinds of things that are fun to talk [about]. Making it taste good is a whole other issue; it’s a whole other science.”

Some classes cover more of the science of winemaking than others; Keesee says it’s subject to the group.

“It depends on what their experiences have been in the past or who they are: Sometimes we get people who are avid cooks, and so they have questions about how we come up with [wine] ‘recipes,’ as they put it,” Keesee says. “You might have someone who’s an avid home winemaker or brewer, and so they have more technical questions and they want a little more information. Or I might get the occasional engineer or chemist in, and then they really have good questions. I learn as much from them as they learn from me.”

The day the Schindlers helped with harvest, they watched as Keesee explained how Edg-Clif’s white and rosé wines are made by pressing the juice off the skins right away.

“It’s an amazing process to me," Don says. "Because once they get the grapes up to the winery, it’s fascinating how they separate the juice from the skins. It’s all a hands-on operation. It’s a great experience.”

Littlefield and Keesee agree that the greatest joy of the tours is sharing a piece of their work with people.

“When they see the labor and love that go into producing [our wine]... I always tell them that part of what they’re going to taste is a handcrafted product, just like if you were to buy homemade bread,” Littlefield says. “Yes, the bread off the shelf at the grocery store might be less expensive, but there’s going to be a difference in flavor and quality. Our wine is handcrafted, not manufactured; that’s the big difference.”

By afternoon, class participants at Edg-Clif have helped move harvest season along in the vineyard and viewed the next step at the winery – but the wine education doesn’t stop there.

After seeing how grapes are processed with Keesee, guests retire to the tasting room, where Littlefield and Keesee host a series of workshops. Topics range from the long history of Missouri’s wine industry to an overview of the top grape varietals grown in the state to a sensory exercise that teaches you how to enjoy wine with all five senses.

In the sensory workshop, Littlefield walks people through how to verbalize the aromas and flavors they’re experiencing in a particular wine. For example, being able to identity a tart apple or tannic flavor is more specific and accurate than saying it’s fruity or sour. At the end of the exercise, guests sip white and red wines and are asked to share their impressions of the flavor, aroma and other sensory details. When it’s time for pencils down, guests are invited to partake in a tasting of Edg-Clif’s wines.

pictured above:

Cyndy Keesee (left) and Steffie Littlefield (right)

pHOTO BY AIMEE WHITMIrE

pictured right:

Grapes being gathered and crushed at Edg-Clif

pHOTOS BY CATHErINE NEVILLE

pictured opposite page:

Edg-Clif's tasting room

pHOTO BY AIMEE WHITMIrE

“They have a tasting, explain the wines and what to serve it with and they talk about their product,” Don says. “It’s a unique experience, to say the least.”

After spending only half a day at the winery, Don and Audrey joined Edg-Clif’s wine club. He says they’ve returned for wine-club member events about four times a year since, including coursed dinners, chili cook-offs and more.

During the inaugural year of Edg-Clif’s collaboration with the YMCA, a group of about 10 participants, including Don and Audrey, helped with Edg-Clif’s first Vidal Blanc harvest.

Littlefield says that after the second day of harvesting, all 10 people signed up for the wine club, and today, six of them still attend almost all of the winery’s events. “One of the couples moved to Florida, and they call me and email me with orders,” Littlefield says with a laugh.

Nicolle Wright, business and marketing director for the YMCA Trout Lodge, was also in attendance at that first weekend event, which introduced guests to other outdoor activities including a farm tour; she recalls making grape jelly with the class the day after the harvest at Edg-Clif using leftover wine grapes.

“Sometimes they’re wine connoisseurs, sometimes they’re not,” Wright says. “They’re interested in how it all happens – the magic of how you get the grape to be the wine you drink in the bottle. And Steffie and Cyndy are phenomenal at that; the reason they’ve gotten to where they are is because of how great they are at being very personal about their experiences, and being very personable to the people they work with.”

The classes co-hosted with the YMCA not only introduce people far and wide to the winery and its offerings, but a portion of the proceeds are funneled back into supporting future YMCA programming. This, Littlefield says, is at the heart of the partnership for she and Keesee: Although the sisters host plenty of classes and events at Edg-Clif throughout the year on their own, they feel a special affection for supporting the work of their local YMCA. “I think what they offer our whole community and the whole country is invaluable,” Littlefield says. “We like to support that; we think that all people should have the opportunity to come to someplace beautiful, like the Ozarks, and experience it, be outdoors and have some fun.”

In another of the early classes, Littlefield recalls a woman from California who was visiting family in Missouri and signed up for the winery workshop. Although the woman lived near one of the most revered viticulture regions in the world, she found a new appreciation and passion for wine at Edg-Clif.

“She said that not only did she feel like our winery tour and all the information she got was better than anything she’d ever got in California, where everybody pushes you through in big groups, she joined our wine club and has been buying our wine ever since,” Littlefield says. “She emails me all the time [asking,] ‘Do you have this wine? I miss that wine!’ She loved that experience, and she feels like the wine brings back those memories of making friends and being in the vineyard.”

10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, Missouri, edg-clif.com

"Sometimes they©re wine connoisseurs, sometimes they©re not. They©re interested in how it all happens 62

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the magic of how you get the grape to be the wine you drink in the bottle."

ÂŻnicolle wright, business and marketing director at the YMCA Trout Lodge

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Kimber Dean (right) and Kalle Lemone (left) co-own Nourish Café + Market in downtown Columbia, Missouri, which serves organic, locally sourced and health-minded fare. We recently caught up with the duo to learn where they grab a bite to eat when they’re off the clock. Whether you’re like Dean, who seeks out flavorful dishes that meet her dietary restrictions, or Lemone, who just “loves all things food,” there’s plenty of variety in Columbia to please your palate.

with Kimber Dean & Kalle Lemone owners,

nourish café + market

–Katherine herricK

Who or What do you believe is a hidden gem in the columbia food scene?

the sage garden happy holloW farm

The local farmers are such a hidden gem: Covered-L Farm’s grass-fed beef, Goatsbeard Farm cheeses, Stanton Bros.’ eggs and [produce from] Share-Life Farms, Happy Hollow Farm, The Veggie Patch and The Sage Garden. The amount of organically grown, high-quality produce and other food items in and around Columbia taste amazing and are the freshest you can get, which means more nutrients. –Kimber Dean drinkraft

The dinners at Blue Bell Farm [in Fayette, Missouri,] are really spectacular. The [farm hosts them] a few times a year, featuring a guest chef, wine pairings and a lot of local ingredients.

The atmosphere is so special, and [co-owner] Jamie Bryant works with The Ink Cafe [in Columbia], Love Tree Studios, Pretty Little Things and Sugarberry Blooms to create an incredible event. –Kalle Lemone

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What’s your favorite drink, and Where in columbia are you ordering it?

My favorite alcoholic drink in Columbia right now is any cocktail at DrinKraft Tasting Cafe with tequila. Nothing like adding probiotics to your beverage to make you feel good about your gut health while drinking. –K.D.

PHOTOGRAPHy COuRTESy INSTAGRAM uSERS

The Cold Black Heart from Barred Owl Butcher & Table for a cocktail, and wine from the The Wine Cellar & Bistro or Top Ten Wines. And for a nonalcoholic beverage, kombucha from DrinKraft Tasting Cafe. –K.L.

“The dinners at Blue Bell Farm [in Fayette, missouri,] are really spectacular. The [farm hosts them] a few times a year, featuring a guest chef, wine pairings and a lot of local ingredients.” peachtree catering

range free

columbia farmers market

Who in the local restaurant scene inspires you?

I’d have to say chef [and Feast contributor] Amanda Elliott with Peachtree Catering for doing the Sunday Suppers. To take that amount of time and effort on one meal shows dedication to her passion, and that inspires me to follow mine. I also love seeing the beautiful cakes Anna Meyer does [at Range Free]. I can’t eat all the things she bakes [due to dietary restrictions], but they’re allergy-friendly and beautiful. –K.D. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and What are you buying there?

I do most of my grocery shopping at Clovers Natural Market, but I also stock up at the [Columbia] Farmers Market. I always get [lamb from] Susie’s Grass Fed Lamb – Indian taco and gyro-seasoned [flavors] – and chicken from Altai Meadows. –K.L.

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