September 2019 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

september 2019

poppin' the quark All in the family at Hemme Bros. Creamery on p. 70

wa g y u i n weston On pasture at KC Cattle Co. on p. 79

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MASTER STEAK AT HOME

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Savor the flavors of ...

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

september

2019

Volume 9 / Issue 9 contributors

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

project manager

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Digital director

Michele Russo, sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1297

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com

account manager, Kansas City Region

Assistant digital editor

Joseph King, jking@feastmagazine.com 816.944.8574

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen fact checker

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger Contributing Writers

Jordan Baranowski, Ettie Berneking, Julia Calleo, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Gallagher, Juliana Goodwin, Rose Hansen, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Justin Phelps, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Lauren Miers, Nancy Stiles, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Emma Veidt, Shannon Weber

Keith Borgmeyer

Columbia, Missouri, Photographer “It was humid at daybreak as I traveled down a winding gravel road, sun filtering through the dew-covered cornstalks and the sound of livestock in the distance. I arrived at the peaceful plot of land where Hemme Brothers Creamery is based and was warmly greeted by David Hemme. There, he walked me through the hard work that goes into cheesemaking at the creamery. I’m always humbled by the amount of physical labor and care that goes into hardcrafted products. The Hemme family have passion for every

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

Contact Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

step of the process, and you can taste the difference.” (Culture Shock, p. 70)

April Fleming

Kansas City, Writer "I found the KC Cattle Co. story a particularly meaningful piece to work on because it brings together a lot of important issues, including what happens to combat veterans once they return to civilian life, local agriculture and sustainable cattle farming. One part of the story that particularly sticks in my head was how Zeph Martinez, one of KC Cattle Co.'s employees, described the feedback loop between the veteran staff and the cattle. He said that in order to keep the Wagyu cattle calm (happy, calm cows produce the finest product), the veterans have to learn to calm themselves – essentially the cows and the veterans work together to reduce each other's stress. It's a lovely image, and important for these people as they transition back to civilian life." (Cattle Man, p. 79)

ART

jonathan pollack

Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

St. Louis, Photographer

production designer

"Union Station was a childhood destination for me when it opened as a

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com

shopping center in the mid-1980s. My 9-year-old self browsed with wide eyes inside of shops like Puzzlebox, John Pils Posters and Brookstone.

Contributing Photographers

My strongest memories, however, are of the food: the herbed focaccia

Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Sarah Conroy, Tessa Cooper, Mallory Due, Ana Elliott, Teresa Floyd, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Rolf Ringwald, Amy Schromm, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Kim Wade

from Fedora Café & Bar (Bill Cardwell, can you share the recipe?), the bisque at Boston Seafood Co. and, of course, the fudge and entertainment at The Fudgery. I'm so excited for the reopening of the aquarium at Union Station and for my son to experience the new sights, sounds and tastes of this iconic St. Louis landmark." (One on One, p. 22)

Teresa Floyd Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2019 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Kansas City, Writer & Photographer "As a chocolate-lover and self-proclaimed cookie monster, it only seemed fitting that my first recipe for Feast’s new monthly column, Sugar Rush, would showcase both. Developing decadent hazelnut truffle cookies meant consuming copious amounts of dark chocolate

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

and biting into the thick warm centers of each test batch of cookies.

Needless to say, I ate a lot of cookies and was very happy to do so.

Recipe development is a labor of love: It’s the process of creating a great recipe, then tweaking it over and over again in order to make something great into something excellent. You must love food and sharing; for me, sharing flavor is what food is all about. It’s a way

on the cover Pan-seared steak by Jennifer Silverberg table of contents Go Out: Dagwood Bumpstead from BG's Olde Tyme Deli by Mallory Due; Stay In: Hazelnut truffle cookies by Teresa Floyd; Features: Cows at Hemme Brothers Creamery by Keith Borgmeyer

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

to show love, build community and build bridges between people.

Through Sugar Rush, I’ll be sharing my love of baking with you, so that you in turn can share that love with others." (Sugar Rush, p. 41)

Go Out

Stay In

/ 32 /

/ 17 /

DINE & DRINK Ossobuco Italian American Bistro, Plate, Malinche, Blue Anchor Coffee & Bistro, Tiger Chef, Quattro Trattoria + Pizzeria, Soirée Steak & Oyster House

/ 20 / On TREND

Plant-based protein / 22 / one on one

Russel Cunningham of St. Louis Union Station / 24 / SHOP HERE

Marcoot Jersey Creamery’s Country Store / 26 / one on one

Greg Judy of Green Pastures Farm / 28 / HOT BLOCKS Rountree / 30 / one on one

Amanda and Clayton Kreisel of Thrive Coffee + Creamery / 32 / HOMETOWN HITS

Flat Creek Restaurant, BG's Olde Tyme Deli, Good

Time Charlie's

Features

/ 41 /

/ 41 / sugar Rush

Hazelnut truffle cookies / 42 / one ingredient 3 ways

Fresh basil / 44 / the mix

The Dude from Dublin / 46 / MIDWEST MADE

Beef jerky

/ 70 /

70 79

/ 48 / mystery shopper

Bresaola / 50 / healthy appetite

Oyster mushrooms with robiola cheese sauce / 51 / culinary library

Chris Bolyard of Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions / 52 / one on one

Adrian Buff of Grison Dairy & Creamery / 54 / the dish

Blue Ribbon Burger / 56 / quick fix

Braciolini / 58 / crash course

Master steak at home

84

culture Shock How one Missouri family made the leap from dairy farm to artisan creamery, producing German-style quark, cheese curds, Cheddar and mozzarella.

cattle man Retired U.S. Army Ranger Patrick Montgomery and a crew of fellow veterans are raising Wagyu cattle to produce topquality beef in Weston, Missouri.

hail to the beef Since 1927, Wenneman Meat Co. in St. Libory, Illinois, has been sourcing, slaughtering, butchering and selling some of the best beef and pork in the Midwest.

In Every Issue

/ 8 / from the PUBLISHER

Exploring cattle country / 10 / events / 12 / feast tv

Best of: Dairy / 90 / back burner / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

7

Letter

T

from the

Publisher

hanks in large part to our love of barbecue, pork often gets the

most attention as a top protein being raised in our region, but Missouri is seventh in the nation for pork production, while for beef, we are third. According to the Missouri Department of Agriculture, there are 2.06 million head of beef cattle in Missouri, and in 2018, the state was home to about 83,000 dairy cows.

Cows are big business in Missouri, as well as Kansas and Illinois, and in this issue, we dig into the industry and introduce you to some of the folks who are setting the standard for beef and dairy production in the Midwest.

Take Patrick Montgomery, who operates KC Cattle Co., a veteran-run farm that raises American Wagyu

Yogurt adds tang and a tender texture to quick breads and loaf cakes like the orange-chocolate version I developed for the dairy episode of our “best of” season, which is airing on PBS stations across the region. You’ll find the recipe for this easy, citrusy, not-too-sweet cake in the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com.

and Wagyu-Angus cross cattle on pasture in the rolling hills of Weston, Missouri. Patrick knew that he wanted to run a

We round out this issue with a feature profile of Hemme Brothers Creamery, a family-

cattle ranch, but was well aware that it was tough to make a living running a typical

run dairy making a range of cow-milk cheeses, including quark, a German-style fresh

cow-calf operation. He had to find a niche, and he certainly did, selling the majority

cheese (p. 70). You’ll also find a host of recipes in these pages that feature beef and

of his nationally-renowned beef directly to consumers who value knowing exactly

cheese – with a notable exception. Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you know

who raised their steaks. Turn to p. 79 for April Fleming’s insightful profile of this local

that vegetarian alternatives to animal protein are exploding on the culinary scene –

entrepreneur.

even Burger King has an Impossible Whopper on the menu. Hungry Planet is a St. Louisbased plant-based protein brand that is set to be available across the country in 2020

Consumers’ resurgent desire to know where their food comes from and who raised it is

(p. 20), making Missouri a leader in the beef industry as well as the growing market for

also key to the success and longevity of Wenneman Meat Co., which has been operating

plant-based meat-alternatives.

in St. Libory, Illinois, for 92 years. At Wenneman, the entire butchery process, from slaughter to meat case, is handled by a dedicated staff focused on quality and creating relationships with their customers. Editor-in-chief Liz Miller had the chance to tour this

Until next time,

integrated facility and takes you there on p. 84.

And as we become more keenly aware of the impact that farming has on our environment, there are a growing number of cattle operations that are using highdensity rotational grazing to actually help sequester carbon in their pastures, improving soil health and allowing cattle to live their entire lives on grass, which is their natural diet. Our Kansas City contributing editor, Jenny Vergara, spoke with one local

Catherine Neville

farmer who manages 1,620 acres in harmony with the land. Meet Greg Judy of Green

publisher@feastmagazine.com

Pastures Farm on p. 30.

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Hiking

is a great way to get out and discover nature. It's good for your health, and can be enjoyed by people of all ages and ability levels.

Wear comfortable shoes, layer your clothing, and bring a camera, binoculars, and field guides.

Pack water and a light snack, like pecan-orange granola.

For places to hike near you visit mdc.mo.gov.

Discover

Nature

HIKED IT... LIKED IT! CHECK OUT HIKING OPPORTUNITIES AT THESE LOCAL CONSERVATION AREAS: Busiek State Forest and Wildlife Area Christian county – 18 miles of hiking trails Bethany Falls Trail at Burr Oak Woods Nature Center Jackson county – 1.33 mile hiking trail Engelmann Woods Natural Area Franklin county – 1.5 mile hiking trail Millstream Gardens Conservation Area Madison county – 2 miles of hiking trails Peck Ranch Conservation Area Shannon county – 2.5 mile section of the Ozark Trail Runge Conservation Nature Center Cole county – 2.4 miles of hiking trails Big Creek Conservation Area Adair county – 0.7 mile hiking trail

pecan-orange granola Makes a generous gallon of granola

8 cups rolled oats 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans 2 cups raw sunflower seeds 1 cup sesame seeds 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup honey ¾ cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon almond extract Juice and zest (chopped) of 4 oranges 2 cups chopped dried fruit Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl, toss together the oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, and salt. Over low heat, warm the honey and oil in a medium saucepan, stirring until well combined.

Remove from heat and stir in almond extract and orange juice. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir well with a wooden spoon. Work the mixture with your hands, if needed, until everything is damp.

Spread mixture no deeper than ½ inch on large, rimmed baking sheets. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring several times, until crispy and golden.

When the granola has cooled, stir in the zest and dried fruit.

Store granola in jars.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com. / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

9

Fr om cr af t- be er fe st s to ta st in g ev en ts , pl an th e m on th s ah ea d w it h fe as t

against hunger

CALENDAR

STL | 9/1 - 9/30 Chefs Against Hunger STL Sept. 1 through Sept. 30; St. Louis; stlfoodbank. org/chefsagainsthungerstl; 314.292.6262

STL Chefs Against Hunger is a fun and delicious way to dine out and help feed the area’s hungry.

In honor of Hunger Action Month, participating restaurants have created or designated a special dish on their menu that benefits the St. Louis Area Foodbank each time it is sold during the month of September. Visit the foodbank’s website to see the complete list of restaurants, along with featured dishes that you can order to help feed our neighbors in need.

stl | 9/22 Square Off Pizza Festival on the Hill Sun. Sept. 22, 11:30am to 6:30pm, Tickets are $25 (admission for children 12 and under is free); Berra Park on the Hill, 1825 Macklind Ave., St. Louis; stlsquareoff.com

Eight area pizzerias will compete to win the title of Best St. Louis-Style Pizza at the third-annual Square Off Pizza Festival. Come pledge allegiance to Provel in a celebration of myriad St. Louis eats, including T-ravs and gooey butter cake.

stl | 9/22 stl | 9/12 Battle of the Slices Thu. Sept. 12, 6 to 9pm; $20 in advance, $25 at the gate; Must be 21+ to participate; The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/battle-of-the-slices

St. Louisans, prepare your appetites for the second-annual Battle of the Slices! Feast Magazine brings together the best of the best, from St. Louis-style pies to wood-fired 'za, for fans to sample and vote on in four categories. Sip, sample and vote for your favorite pizza to crown the 2019 Battle of the Slices winners. Tickets include unlimited pizza samples, free parking and a cash bar.

Ballpark Village: Bacon & Brunch Sun. Sept. 22, Doors at 10:30am, brunch starts at 11am; Tickets from $10 to $70; Ballpark Village, 601 Clark Ave., St. Louis; info@stlballparkvillage.com

Ballpark Village is throwing a party celebrating the greatness that is Bacon & Brunch! Vendors from all over the city will be serving up a variety of Instagram-worthy brunch dishes and quenching your thirst with bacon-inspired cocktails. Groove to local music while walking around in a brunch-lover’s nirvana at the new outdoor plaza.

STL | 9/27 Urban Chestnut Oktoberfest

stl | 9/18 Schnucks Cooks: Braciolini Wed., Sept. 18, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnuckscooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to properly use a meat mallet to pound out beef tenderloin.

You’ll also learn how to give an Italian spin to a side of green beans.

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Fri., Sept. 27, 12pm to midnight; Sat., Sept. 28, 11am to midnight; Sun., Sept. 29, 12 to 7pm; Free to attend; 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; oktoberfeststl.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s (UCBC) annual Oktoberfest St. Louis returns for its ninth year at the Midtown Brewery & Biergarten in Grand Center. The three-day, Munich-style celebration begins Fri., Sept. 27 and runs through Sun., Sept.

29. Oktoberfest St. Louis is free to attend and will feature a full lineup of polka and oompah-thumping music on two stages and plenty of German food and beer. Sunday is traditionally considered to be family day, featuring circus performers and family-friendly activities under the Circus Flora Big Top tent.

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episode: dairy

revisit some of our favorite spots in the best of season and get a taste of our all-new recipes!

Orange-Chocolate Yogurt Cake yields 1 loaf 1½

2

2 ¾

1

1

½

2

2

½

recipe by catherine neville

cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting Tbsp unsalted butter, softened tsp baking powder tsp kosher salt cup granulated sugar cup full-fat yogurt cup extra virgin olive oil large eggs Tbsp orange zest cup chopped dark chocolate

/ preparation / Preheat oven to

350°F. Prepare a loaf pan with roomtemperature butter and a dusting of flour. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper.

In the dairy episode of our “best of” season, host Cat Neville stops by Kansas City’s Shatto Milk Co. to see how this family-run dairy is saving their farm by building their brand. Next, she stops by Cool Cow Cheese in mid-Missouri to taste some outstanding Gouda and meet a pig named Wilbur. Finally, it’s off to Illinois for a dinner at Prairie Fruits Farm & Creamery, where goats are the star and chefs vie for the chance to cook in the farm’s on-site kitchen. The episode wraps in Cat’s kitchen where she shows you how to bake an orange-scented, chocolate-studded cake with tangy yogurt.

In a large bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. In a smaller bowl, mix the yogurt, olive oil, eggs and orange zest until well combined. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and then fold in the chocolate, taking care not to over mix.

Pour batter into pan and bake until golden, about 1 hour.

check your local listings to watch feast tv on these networks:

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

-Scratch P m o r F adrveing the St. Louis area since 2012ies

M Se

Get in touch

Store hourS

2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood 314-704-4416 pieohmystl.com

Tuesday - Friday: 10 - 6 pm Saturday: 10 - 5 pm Closed Sundays and Mondays

Voted

Best Happy Hour

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Early August is the perfect time to begin sampling the grapes to determine when to harvest. Picking the grapes at the

optimal ripeness

will ensure that the full potential and flavor of the grape shines through in the wine. We only get one shot each year.

Brandon Dixon, Executive Winemaker, with Bob Nolan Owner of Noboleis Vineyards

There are only one or two days when the

grapes are perfect 90% of a wine’s quality comes from picking on the exact day to make an exceptional wine.

Tony Kooyumjian, Owner of Montelle and Augusta Winery

Wines are produced in our vineyards, where the soil, sun and climate make an impression on the grapes.

The wineries in the Augusta AVA share the same

historic soil that sets our area apart and makes it special.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

The culmination of

planning, energy and passion

of the growing year comes to fruition when you see that juice come through the press in a beautiful red hue.

Rick Balducci,

The Road Worth Traveling augusTa WINERY NOBOLEIs VINEYaRDs BaLDuCCI VINEYaRDs

MONTELLE WINERY

Montelle Winery 201 Montelle Drive Augusta, MO 63332 (888) 595-9463 M-F 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 12am-6pm (Open Late Saturdays May-Sept)

Augusta Winery 5601 High Street Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 228-4301

Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath road Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 482-4500

Balducci Vineyards 6601 S. Missouri 94 Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 482-8466

Mon-Fri 10am-5pm Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 12pm-6pm

Open Daily 11am-5pm, closed Tuesday

Mon-Fri-11am-5:30pm, Sat-11am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm

SAVE THE DATE! Augusta Wine Trail Gala - November 16 www.augustawinetrail.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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Go Out DINE & DRINK

/ ON TREND / SHOP HERE / HOT BLOCKS / HOMETOWN HITS

▪ ELLISVILLE, MO.

Malinche Story and photography by Mabel Suen

Malinche boasts a menu inspired by the food traditions of Mexico City, an ode to the hometown of co-owner Angel Jiménez-Gutiérrez and his mother, head chef María Gutiérrez Molina. The menu is made up of a dozen garnachas (small plates), such as arrachera calavera with a housemade blue corn tortilla, beef arrachera (skirt steak), salsas taqueras, tuetano (bone marrow), housemade queso fresco, queso enchilado and guacamole. Pair the garnachas with cocktails such as the Margarita Que Pique Para La Niña made with house-infused jalapeño tequila, Don Julio tequila, dry Curaçao and fresh citrus juice.

15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville, Missouri, malinchestl.com

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DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

◀ KANSAS CITY

Plate Written by Jenny Vergara / Photography by anna petrow

A new incarnation of Plate, the East Brookside restaurant devastated by a fire more than two years ago, has risen from the ashes and is dressed to impress. Christian Joseph’s new restaurant is three times the size of the original, featuring a sleek, stylish dining room and bar that stays open late. In the kitchen, executive chef Brian Mehl has created an upscale, modern Italian menu that’s ideal for business lunches, happy hour or a romantic date. Make a meal from the antipasti menu featuring hamachi crudo, risotto arancini and burrata with beet-green pesto.

As at the original Plate, the housemade pasta dishes continue to steal the show, such as the chervil ravioli with goat cheese, balsamic leeks, radicchio, Zante currants, asparagus Vignole and Parmesan.

701 E. 63rd St., Kansas City, Missouri, platekc.com

◀ WARRENTON, MO.

Blue Anchor Coffee & Bistro Written by Heather Riske Photography by rolf ringwald

◥ SPRINGFIELD, MO.

OssoBuco Italian American Bistro Story and photography by tessa cooper

There’s now a destination in Springfield, Missouri, for osso bucco, the traditional Italian veal shank dish: OssoBuco Italian American Bistro. The restaurant provides generous portions of the classic Italian dish developed by chef-owner Angel Kim, who – having founded local staples such as The Hill Italian Restaurant and ReRico Brazilian Grill – is no stranger to creative international fare. At OssoBuco, Kim offers two types of osso bucco, both slow cooked for four hours: one in a Port wine reduction and the other in his classic arrabbiata sauce.

1410 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/ossobucobistro 18

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

At Blue Anchor Coffee & Bistro, chef-owner Lee Gustin aims to bring serious food to a coffee shop setting. In June, the former executive chef at Cedar Lake Cellars in Wright City, Missouri, opened the two-in-one concept inside a 110-year-old building in Warrenton. Gustin describes the menu as chef-driven, fromscratch fare, ranging from breakfast favorites such as avocado toast and a quinoa bowl to heartier options including a corned beef sandwich, Buffalo mac ‘n’ cheese and Gustin’s famous Asian nachos. Blue Anchor also offers to-go dinners and a chef’s breakfast table on Saturdays, featuring biscuits and gravy and pancakes with housemade syrup and jam served at a 16-foot community table.

209 E. Booneslick Road, Warrenton, Missouri, blueanchorbistro.com

▼ COLUMBIA, MO.

Tiger Chef Written by Emma Veidt / photography by aaron ottis

Authenticity meets freshness at Columbia, Missouri’s first Burmese-Thai restaurant, Tiger Chef. This April, Sai Tai and his wife, Nang Seng Lont, opened their first restaurant to share her tasty home cooking. The menu offers flavors from their respective home countries in dishes such as eggrolls, Burmese curry and Tiger Fried Rice. Plates such as pad see ew and mi goreng fried noodles are offered in heat levels from one to five, but don’t worry – if you overestimate your spice tolerance, you can cool down with a cup of sweet, creamy Thai tea.

907 Rain Forest Parkway, Columbia, Missouri, tigerchefcomo.com

▲ ST. LOUIS

Quattro Trattoria + Pizzeria Story and photography by Mabel Suen

The Westin St. Louis has a new on-site restaurant located next to Busch Stadium. Quattro Trattoria + Pizzeria serves an Italian-focused menu with pasta, pizza and more in a casual-contemporary setting. Highlights include hand-tossed personal pizzas and a shareable polpette, a 16-ounce meatball topped with house tomato sauce and herbed ricotta and served with toasted crostini. The cocktail menu features classics with Italian twists, such as the Italian in Jalisco, a unique take on a Margarita made with Patron Blanco tequila, Aperol, Montenegro, fresh lime juice and agave syrup.

811 Spruce St., St. Louis, Missouri, quattrostlouis.com

▶ KANSAS CITY

Soirée Steak & Oyster House Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by anna petrow

Situated in Kansas City’s historic jazz district, Soirée Steak & Oyster House is the upscale sister restaurant to Soirée New Orleans Bistro in Smithville, Missouri. At chef Anita Moore’s Kansas City outpost, she shares the same Southern flavor in a variety of steak and seafood dishes. From juicy rib eyes to expertly seared petit fillets, steaks are served with a house salad, potato and vegetable of the day. Don’t miss Moore’s popular pecancrusted trout Pontchartrain, which comes smothered in a rich mushroom-cream sauce.

1512 E. 18th St., Kansas City, Missouri, soireekc.com / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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DINE & DRINK

/

ON TREND

/

SHOP HERE

/

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

Jason Tilford

executive chef and co-owner Mission Taco Joint

Hungry Planet “We’ve always been vegetarian-friendly at Mission – we have

-Liz Mill er

two or three vegetarian tacos, plus all of our sides are vegetarian. We love that Hungry Planet is local, but we also love the taste; we compared it with Impossible meat and we liked Hungry Planet better.

We made sure they could keep up with our demand – we go through about 500 pounds a week – and they have. Anything that requires ground beef, you can make with it. We love working with them.”

the

Cali burrito

AT MISSION TACO JOINT WITH LOCATIONS IN ST. LOUIS AND KANSAS CITY

▪ ST. LOUIS In 2004, siblings Jody and Todd Boyman began experimenting with plant-based proteins. Their vision eventually evolved into Match Meats, a St. Louis-based vegan-friendly retail line for home cooks. The company was driven by the Boymans’ desire to offer consumers an alternative to meat for health, lifestyle and environmental reasons. “We saw early on that some of the biggest challenges on the planet can be solved by providing people with the foods that they love, but made entirely with plants,” Todd says. “And when you do that, you start bending the curve on human and planetary health.” Fast-forward 15 years and the Boymans still operate Match, which is currently exclusively sold at Dierbergs Markets in St. Louis – although that’s about to change. In 2017, they unveiled the food-service arm of the business, Hungry Planet, and in 2020, Match products will be more widely available across the U.S. under that brand. Its core product line includes plant-based replacements for beef, pork, chicken, crab, Italian sausage and chorizo, and like many modern plant-based proteins, they are mostly sold ground, making them malleable. Soon, Hungry Planet will also debut its plant-based turkey, lamb and breakfast sausage. “If people aren’t told that it’s plant-based before they eat it, they have no idea that it’s not conventional meat – it’s just delicious food,” Todd says. hungryplanet.us photo by amy schromm

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SPRINGFIELD, MO. For more than a decade, Jake Herren ate a pescatarian diet. Earlier this year, he committed to a fully vegan diet, but he was tired of eating the overly processed meat-free products he found at the grocery store. He set to work developing his own fresh alternatives, and today, Herren sells four vegan-friendly products – burger patties, taco meat, breakfast sausage and Italian sausage – made with a blend of 10 familiar ingredients. Under the name Jake’s Burgers, he supplies Mama Jean’s Natural Market in Springfield, Missouri, for retail, while chefs use his products at Druff’s, Gailey’s Breakfast Cafe and more. facebook.com/jakesveganburgers

photo by rj haRTBECK

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cafe cusco Best Vegetarian

Missouri’s

Only

Dutch RestauRant 334 East Commercial cial St. S | Springfield, MO | 417.344.0085 | vangoghseet angoghseet angoghseeterie.com

Family-Style

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573-825-6036 212 E. Green Meadows, Suite 9, Columbia, Missouri 65205

FARMINGTON FALL FEST - DOWNTOWN FARMINGTON MO

B FARMINGTON MALL FEST

As cool autumn evenings settle in to St. Louis, Boundary’s general manager Joe Wilson and executive chef Ryan Cooper are crafting a new menu that will feature fall produce at its peak, sourced from local growers including Tony’s Family Farms, Ozark Forest Mushrooms, Such and Such Farm and Baejte Farms. Like Boundary itself, the menu is modern and innovative while remaining entirely approachable. These new items will appear throughout Boundary’s offerings, in family-style main dishes — such as añejo tequila-braised Berkshire pork shank with rojo mole risotto and queso fresco — as well as in smaller plates meant to be shared, like the sourdough bruschetta topped with Saint-André brie, prawns, cider glazed butternut squash, bacon lardons, cranberry and fried sage. every The wine list pulls grapes from e orld, and “bro “brown corner of the world, based” spirits and signature quisite cocktails tails are e exquisite ways ays to round out a meal — as is the seasonal lemon pound e made cake with thymeed Mission carameliz amelized Boundary’s new figs. Boundary’ fall all menu is set to October. debut in October

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• Blues music from some of the best bands in the area • Two stages - enjoy music all festival long • Bring a lawn chair & relax

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• Enjoy craft beer and wine from local businesses • $5 for a wristband to drink • A portion of the proceeds go to local food pantries

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• Mingle with & get cooking tips from professional BBQ teams • Some competitors will bring food trucks so we can enjoy fantastic BBQ

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 019

21

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

/

st. louis

with Russel Cunningham / executive chef, St. Louis Union Station

must-try dishes at

st. louis aquarium Written by Heather Riske / photography by j. pollack photography

at union station

The much-anticipated, $187 million St. Louis Aquarium at St. Louis Union Station won’t open until later this year, but guests can get an early taste – literally – when the first phase opens this fall. Three brand-new restaurant concepts will open inside the space over the next few months: The Train Shed, a restaurant and bar with industrial-chic décor softened by an art nouveau theme, featuring sustainable seafood, cocktails and craft beers; Soda Fountain at Union Station, a new-school spin on the retro diner, serving ice cream sundaes, phosphate sodas and burgers; and 1894 Café, a casual, family-friendly café. Spearheading the development of the new concepts for Lodging Hospitality Management is Russel Cunningham, the longtime executive chef of Union Station. The buildout also includes a ropes course, mini golf and a 200-foot Ferris wheel next to the aquarium.

milkshakes

The “Freak Shakes” at Soda Fountain live up to the name: The indulgent milkshakes are piled high with everything from gooey butter cake and chocolatecovered pretzels to giant lollipops and marzipan mermaid tails.

whitefish

Sustainable seafood plays heavily into the menu at The Train Shed. To get a taste, try the Lake Superior whitefish, served with dashi broth, Chinese cabbage, edamame and Ozark Forest mushrooms.

Walk us through each of the three concepts. You could go to one restaurant for lunch, one for dinner and explore the aquarium or play on the Ferris wheel in between. Soda Fountain at Union Station is an old-school diner meets new; we’ll have housemade sodas and phosphates along with “Freak Shakes” [over-the-top milkshakes] and crazy sundaes – I looked at practically every soda fountain in the country, pulled together ideas, tweaked them and put our spin on it for that one. The Train Shed is our full-service, upscale restaurant; the décor is going to be more modern/industrial with a little bit of an art nouveau feel. We have a pizza oven and smoker, plus small plates such as crispy chickpeas and fried Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds. 1894 Café is more food court-esque; it caters to families and school trips, with burgers, chicken tenders and salads.

How does sustainability play into the menu? Because we’re located in an aquarium, we feature a lot of seafood on the menu,

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such as a seared tuna slider with avocado, ginger-pickled carrot and radish on focaccia [at The Train Shed], but we also place great emphasis on sustainable seafood. We’re working with the Green Dining Alliance [in St. Louis] to play into this theme of the aquarium and sustainability.

Tell us about the R&D process for developing these three concepts. I got to travel around with the aquarium staff to check out other aquariums across the country – everywhere from the Tennessee Aquarium in Chattanooga to the Monterey Bay Aquarium [in Monterey, California] to the New York Aquarium on Coney Island.

Monterey has a huge foundation focused on sustainability, as well as little shops and candy stores surrounding the aquarium; there’s a smaller version of a bulk candy shop going in at Soda Fountain here.

stuffed tater tots

In addition to more upscale dishes, The Train Shed also offers plenty of fun for the whole family. Case in point: The giant stuffed Tater Tots filled with bacon and

stlouisaquarium.com

cheese, which are perfect for sharing.

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◀ GREENVILLE, IL.

Marcoot Jersey Creamery’s Country Store Written by Heather Riske / photography by rolf ringwald

When Amy Marcoot was growing up, her parents would host her kindergarten class on their family dairy farm in Greenville, Illinois, to teach the ins and outs of agriculture. Today, she and her sister, Beth, are carrying on that mission at Marcoot Jersey Creamery, the artisan cheese company they launched in 2010, and its Country Store. Guided tours are offered Monday through Friday at 1pm and on Saturday at 11am, where guests can pet baby calves, step up to a robotic milking barn, watch the cheesemaking process and, of course, sample a bunch of cheese. “People want to understand where their food comes from,” Amy says. “They can come and see the whole process from the animals eating grass out on the pasture to the animals being milked to the cheese being made – it really creates a full experience for people, and we appreciate the trust that it builds with the public.”

526 Dudleyville Road, Greenville, Illinois, marcootjerseycreamery.com

3 Must-Try Marcoot Products

Cheese

Extreme Ice

Fresh Ice Cream

With 22 different varieties on

The Marcoot sisters first released

Marcoot’s store is the

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Marcoot’s operation. In addition to

and crushed fruit, last year, but

its ice cream, available

tweaked the recipe after working

in vanilla, chocolate

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24

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

with Greg Judy

rucker, MO.

/ owner, Green Pastures Farm field report Green Pastures raises sheep, pigs and chickens, which all play a role in helping to maintain the land.

Written by Jenny Vergara photography by kim wade

Pigs “As part of our silvopasture practice, we have removed some trees to open up the canopy and allow sunlight in to grow plant life around the remaining tree bases, and that’s where we pasture our pigs. We run two batches of pastured Berkshire pigs a year, and we let them loose in the thickest part of the woods once a year, where the other animals won’t go, allowing the timber forage to recover in between. The key to raising pigs is not allowing them to get bored; we have to move them around to different pastures to keep them healthy and active.”

Greg Judy and his wife, Jan, own Green Pastures Farm in Rucker, Missouri, located 24 miles northwest of Columbia. In 1999, Judy thought he had lost his family farm: He was almost bankrupt with no land, cattle or capital. He decided to start grazing leased cattle on leased land, basically working as a management company for local land owners. With the money he earned, he got himself out of debt and started buying land of his own. By 2009, he was farming full time, and today, he manages 1,620 acres on 16 farms, four of which he owns and 12 he leases. He raises grass-pastured South Poll cows, parasite-resistant St. Croix hair sheep, Berkshire pigs and chickens, with every animal playing their part to help the land, along with harvesting 2,000 shiitake mushroom logs. Judy has also become an in-demand public speaker, hosting workshops on his land and authoring two books about his work with mob grazing – a type of high-density cattle grazing done with silvopastures that work in balance with nature, requiring very low inputs and capital.

How does mob grazing work? We use hot-wire fencing to create precisely sized paddocks where we need the [cows] to feed. We keep the paddocks small to keep the cattle moving in tight herds, or mobs, which is how animals used to graze in the wild. This does two things: First, it allows the cattle to eat the fresh grasses, legumes and clover, while they fertilize the ground with their own manure and urine. Next, the cows trample the remaining grasses flat, stomping in their waste and planting seeds back into the ground to create a healthy environment to replenish the soil. We move them twice a day, every day, to a new part of the pasture to graze, so they always have fresh grass to eat.

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Sheep “After the cattle are done eating the tops of our soft green grass, we let our St. Croix hair sheep graze on the same paddock. They’ll eat all of the weeds and woody or thorny bushes – things cows won’t touch.”

Chickens “We have about 600 chickens that we rotate in behind the cows and sheep on the same paddocks. They’re kept inside an electric netting that we can set up and break down easily. The chickens lay down their own fertilizer, and they also scratch the cow and sheep manure, which spreads that rich fertilizer and seed even further. The variety of plant life has gotten much more diverse since we started rotating chickens across our land.”

How does mob grazing help raise healthy cows and improve the environment? This is an all-natural grazing process. We try to give the cows what they would find in nature, which in turn [requires] less money and expensive equipment.

All we need is hot-wire fencing and clean water to raise these cows, and that means we don’t need to give our cows worming medicine, hormones or grain – a cow is naturally an herbivore, not a “grainivore.” If we are managing our land properly and allowing the cows access to healthy grass, they don’t need anything else. We’re simply trying to mimic what happens in nature to make our land, water and animals healthier.

What are silvopastures and why are they important in the process? Silvopastures are an ancient, but intentional, practice of using trees, forage plants and livestock in a collaborative and mutually beneficial way in the grazing process.

You have to observe and study nature to do this.

One year you may need to plant more trees, or in our case, remove some, to allow the ground to grow more grass for the cattle to graze on. For us, it also means adding more diversity on the farm by bringing other animals into the grazing equation, such as sheep, pigs and chickens that work together to create better soil, pest control and more climate change mitigation.

Tell us more about the South Poll cattle breed, and why you chose to raise them. We chose to run South Poll cows because they work beautifully being fed only on grass. We have built this herd up from the original 22 head we purchased to more than 370 today. This is a smaller-bodied red cattle breed with a slick hide that keeps them cool in the summer and they put on a little fur to keep them warm in the winter. They’re extremely docile and are always ready to graze.

21975 Devil’s Washboard, Rucker, Missouri, greenpasturesfarm.net

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DINE & DRINK

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ON TREND

Cherry Picker Package x Fare

/

SHOP HERE

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team taco

skully's ramen

HOT BLOCKS

/

HOMETOWN HITS

Cherry Picker Package x Fare Cherry Picker proves that good things come in small packages.

The pint-sized cocktail destination, coffeehouse and package store is attached to one of Springfield’s most popular patios. Inside, customers can choose from a carefully curated food and drink menu; outside, they can uncork a bottle selected from Cherry Picker’s floor-to-ceiling wine racks.

Jennifer Leonard

co-owner Tie & Timber Beer Co.

Rountree “In Rountree, you can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner – as well as appetizers and drinks. There are great patio choices, and most establishments are family friendly. I’m also very excited to welcome Team Taco to the neighborhood – they’re a great complement to the current scene.”

601 S. Pickwick Ave., cherrypickerpackage.com

Tie & Timber Beer Co.

photography by ana elliott

tea bar & bites

After a little more than a year in business, Tie & Timber owners Jennifer Leonard and Curtis Marshall have proven themselves power players in Springfield’s massive craft-beer community.

The airy taproom is the ideal environment to kick back with easy-drinking brews such as Juicy Brewski, a bright, citrusy New England IPA brewed with five pounds of hops per barrel.

1451 E. Cherry St., tieandtimberbeerco.com

ott's pasta

Rountree Springfield, MO.

The intersection of Cherry Street and Pickwick Avenue has become a beacon of culinary symbiosis in Springfield, Missouri. Located near the northern edge of Springfield’s charming Rountree neighborhood, the intersection lets locals while away entire afternoons flitting between light tea room eats, hearty ramen bowls and generous wine pours. Plus, it’s all within a few hundred square feet.

-Lillian Stone

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Keep an eye out for Rountree’s newest concept seeking to fill neighborhood grocery needs: Culture Counter Market & Freshies, slated to open soon.

Team Taco

Skully’s Ramen

Team Taco, the latest concept from Social on Patton’s Doug Riddle, Brent Sonnemaker, Cary Harris and executive chef Daniel Stern, debuted this summer. The team spent months tinkering with the menu via a mobile food trailer; now, they’ve narrowed it down to a few favorites including tacos stuffed with pork belly, brisket or roasted zucchini.

Locals are eagerly awaiting this food truck’s brick-and-mortar location, opening in the former Josh Mitchell Art Gallery space alongside The Royal, a bar and live music venue. In the meantime, Skully’s stands in the parking lot of its future home, serving up from-scratch entrées such as zesty dry-rubbed red curry chicken wings and standout ramen bowls.

1454 E. Cherry St., facebook.com/teamtacosgf

1427 E. Cherry St., skullysfoodtruck.com

Tea Bar & Bites

Ott’s Pasta Carry Out

Tea Bar & Bites offers a tranquil atmosphere for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The quaint tea café serves consistently excellent fare, including a rotating selection of quiche, legendary caramel rolls and the best chicken salad in town. And, of course, there’s the diverse array of teas delivered to your table in colorful ceramic pots.

Ott’s offers perhaps the most delicious deal in the area, plus prices that have barely budged in 30 years. Fans line up for the carry-out joint’s heaping pasta portions, served with breadsticks and salad for just $5.11. The house casserole is unbeatable, featuring creamy egg noodles topped with Ott’s signature tomato sauce.

621 S. Pickwick Ave., teabarandbites.com

1437 E. Cherry St., ottspasta.com

Join us for the 8th Annual Classic Cocktail Party September 7th from 6-9pm in Lafayette Square Park at the Summer Concert Series Wristbands on Sale on Eventbrite St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party Kicking off a week long celebration of the craft of the cocktail with 15 local distilleries Brought to you by the Missouri Craft Distillers’ Guild For information: www.facebook.com/ StLouisCraftSpiritsCocktailWeek or info@spiritsofstlouisdistillery.com

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ONE ON ONE /

FAYETTE, MO.

with Amanda and Clayton Kreisel

ONE on

board member and board president, Thrive Coffee + Creamery Written by Lauren Miers / photography by kim wade

In July, Thrive Coffee + Creamery opened in Fayette, Missouri, offering a sweet new meeting spot for a cup of joe or scoop of ice cream. But Thrive’s impact extends beyond its menu: As its name suggests, the local eatery wants everyone – from producer to customer – to thrive. It’s a mindset that goes about business in a different way, and Thrive hopes to positively affect Fayette with its profits. We recently caught up with the nonprofit shop’s board president, Clayton Kreisel, and board member Amanda Kreisel to learn more.

What made you want to start an ice cream shop? It’s been an idea in the back of our heads and hearts since we got married. We love good food, not just because it’s enjoyable, but because of the community aspect: how food brings people together around a table. We decided on ice cream because it’s a pure love and passion for us. On our fifth wedding anniversary, we made a bucket list, and one thing we put on it was learning to make gourmet ice cream. We’ve been dabbling in that for five years now and making it commercially since the start of 2019. –Amanda Kreisel You’re serving up some creative ice cream flavors with unique names. Where do they come from? We have 12 flavors; six are consistent and six are rotating. The names and flavors are inspired by our community. For example, my wife makes these unbelievable oatmeal-chocolate chip cookies, so we serve a special cookies and cream flavor featuring them called Amanda’s Cookies. For the rest of the year, our blueberry ice cream will be called Let’s Go Bluesberry in celebration of the St. Louis Blues’ Stanley Cup win – we held a vote on our Facebook page where fans got to choose the name. And our chocolate chip-mint, simply called Jerry’s Mint, is named for one of the former professors at Central Methodist University: Dr. Jerry Priddy. We’ve experimented with other fun flavors as well, including cherry-pecan, peach cobbler, churro and chai – most of which have become staples now. –Clayton Kreisel What role do you hope Thrive will play in the Fayette community? We want to create a meeting ground in Fayette: A place for the university and the community to intersect, because that’s something that doesn’t happen a lot. We want to bring great coffee, great ice cream and things that are community-building to Fayette, and to use our profits to impact the community and the world. Since we’ve opened, we’ve had so many individuals personally reach out to express how glad they are that we’re here. We already have a lot of repeat customers making Thrive a regular part of their week; we’ve had families come to Thrive to celebrate a child’s birthday, couples schedule date nights here and business meetings happen around our tables. –A.K. 203 N. Church St., Fayette, Missouri, thrivecoffeeandcreamery.com

eet trea

at

ts

sw

thrive

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Floats at Thrive are made with housemade ice cream and St. Louis-based Fitz’s sodas. Try a classic root beer float or mix it up with other fun combinations, such as mango-lime-chile ice cream with ginger ale or the Three Story Coffee cold-brew float.

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

The popular candied butter-pecan ice cream is made with toasted and candied Missouri pecans swirled into a housemade brown sugar ice-cream base.

Thrive specializes in ice cream and coffee, and The Meltover combines both: A scoop of the ice cream of your choice is topped with house-brewed pour-over coffee.

As KC's local roaster, we've sourced the world's best coffee and air-roasted it to perfection for over 25 years. From coffee beans and Cold Brew to our nine cafĂŠ locations across the city, experience all that The Roasterie has to offer.

Visit us at any Roasterie CafĂŠ or online at theroasterie.com. / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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DINE & DRINK

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These three delicious destinations are under the radar – but should be on yours.

◀ CAPE GIRARDEAU, MO.

BG’s Olde Tyme Deli written by Liz Miller

In June, BG’s Olde Tyme Deli in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, celebrated a milestone. After almost 40 years in business, the local favorite is now under new ownership and has debuted expanded hours, a remodeled interior – including new flooring, tables and booths – and new seasonal menus and specials.

A lot has stayed the same, including the famous potato skins and the Dagwood Bumpstead, a towering sandwich that stacks three cheeses, ham, turkey, bacon, pepperoni, lettuce, tomatoes and ranch on three slices of grilled Texas toast.

Still, customers are loving new menu items, too, such as the salad bar,

▲ REPUBLIC, MO.

Flat Creek Restaurant written by Juliana Goodwin

If you crave hearty down-home comfort food, head to Flat Creek Restaurant in Republic, Missouri.

The eatery is known for its massive servings of fried catfish, barbecue ribs and broasted fried chicken (a proprietary method of pressure-frying chicken). On Saturdays, you can score a thick slice of garlic-and-herbencrusted prime rib with housemade horseradish sauce. With 50 plus offerings, the beer list is extensive, including more than 20 on tap. Save room for dessert: The fried pie is a Flat Creek signature.

which offers greens, seasonal fresh fruit, a house broccoli salad and

the Dagwood Bumpstead

from-scratch banana pudding.

205 S. Plaza Way, Cape Girardeau, Missouri, bgsdeli.com photo by mallory due

◀ Skidmore, MO.

Good Time Charlie’s Story and photography by Rose Hansen

Good Time Charlie’s in Skidmore, Missouri, serves fare fit for a farmer: Think haystacks of mashed potatoes and gravy and hearty pork tenderloin spilling off the platter. Down-home favorites include grilled catfish, fried chicken and hand-cut fries, plus housemade strawberry-rhubarb pie with fruit from local gardens. Tight-lipped locals won’t chat about Skidmore’s past, but don’t leave town without a bullet-ridden tumbler souvenir: The restaurant is housed in the same building where notorious resident Ken McElroy shot the local grocer 30-plus years ago.

772 E. U.S. 60, Republic, Missouri, flatcreekrestaurants.com/home-republic photo courtesy flat creek restaurant

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103 S. Walnut St., Skidmore, Missouri, facebook.com/ good-time-charlies-of-skidmore-331579097297578

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Since 1965, We Stand For Organic- Locally-Sourced Fair Trade Pesticide Free - Non-GMO - Locally Owned www.cloversnaturalmarket.com

Visit us at our 2 Columbia, MO Locations

r e g r Bu T ried sT e B he

That’s ok. It’a normal reaction when faced with a plate of food from the restaurant that has been voted BEST BBQ in Columbia year after year. Come join the family and experience the flavor for yourself.

T

’ve Youe Nev r

3453 Hampton Ave St. Louis, MO 63139 • 314-833-3207 fandbseatery.com est. 2015

COMOSMOKEANDFIRE.COM

4600 PARIS RD. #102 COLUMBIA,MO / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

33

share a sip responsibly.

This is an ad for your new favorite whiskey. set the bar.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

OldDominick.com/HulingStation

bring it on!

St. L ouis

4 st. louis-style

vote in

categories

frozen restaurant-style wood-fired

Sept 12 | 6-9 pm the boulevard $20 adv | $25 door

ofe th

me

et t

he pa rticipants

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restaurant-style

Prepare Your Appetite for Battle:

8 restaurant-style Felix’s pizza mellow mushroom -stl Urban Research brewery

8 wood-fired

Baked Woodfire Pizza Joint Peel Wood Fired Pizza

8 st.louis-style:

Located in Dogtown, Felix’s Pizza Pub pizza dough is packed with flavor in every bite. Chef Andy’s flavor profiles are always on point and he uses local purveyors like Volpi Pepperoni and G&W Meats. Hand tossed NY style pizza at its best.

In the Ring: The Dogtown (meat lovers) and The Franz Park (vegetarian) Battle Cry: Can’t beat the pint and slice deal. Starts at $9.00!

felipizzeria x's 6401 Clayton Avenue St. Louis, MO 63139 314-645-6565 felixspizzapub.com

mellow

mushroom-stl

Locallyowned,MellowMushroom St.Louishasbeenservingupfresh, stone-bakedpizzastoorderinan eclectic,art-filled,andfamily-friendly environmentsince2016.

In the Ring: OurHolyShiitakePieis madewithanoliveoilandgarlicbase, ourmushroomtrio,caramelized onions,mozzarellaandMontAmoré® cheeses.Finishedoffwithagarlic aioli,blacktruffleoilthengarnished withfreshchivesand parmesan.

Battle Cry:Wearetheoriginators ofhand-tossed,stone-bakedclassic southernpizza.Ourspringwater crustisuniqueandflavorful,andall ourpiesaremadewithhighquality, freshingredients.

the sliced pint pickleman’s PIZZA guido’s pizza kevin’s pizza

brewery

Located in St. Louis’ Grove neighborhood, The U.R.B. (Urban Research Brewery) houses a consumer research bar and a New York-style pizza counter. Sample test batches of Urban Chestnut beer and provide feedback using the digital survey system accessed via any smart device.

While you’re at it, grab a slice (or whole pie) of their New York-style pizza featuring locally sourced, seasonal toppings on their naturally leavened pizza crust.

In the Ring: Classic cheese topped with a blend of shredded and fresh mozzarella and Fontina Fontal .

8 frozen:

Battle Cry: Serving up high-quality slices topped with locally-sourced ingredients in The Grove.

Dogtown Pizza Lena’s Pizza Dan O’s Pizza The bar pizza

3811 S. Lindbergh Blvd Sunset Hills, MO 63127 314-473-1135

mellowmushroom.com/store/st-louis

St. L ouis

36

urban research

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

4501 Manchester Ave 314-832-3222 urbpizzaandbeer.com

Sample and vote for your favorite pizza in each category, to crown the 2019 Battle of the Slices winners!

WOOD-FIRED Baked Woodfire Pizza Joint is a new pizzeria in Ferguson specializing in wood-fired pizzas. The nontraditional offerings include Loaded Potato and Pineapple Express.

In the Ring: Apple-pear-prosciutto with thinly sliced Fuji apples, Bartlett pears, prosciutto, extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, Gruyère, Feta, arugula and a balsamic reduction.

peelwoodfired pizza

Peel Wood Fired Pizza, celebrating its 1 year anniversary in Clayton, is a local, chef-owned business. It started with the idea of using woodfired ovens to craft delicious pizzas, wings and more.

Battle Cry: Baked thinks outside the box with flavor combinations you typically wouldn’t associate with pizza.

In the Ring: Lobster BLT Pizza with garlic butter lobster, bacon, cherry tomatoes, mozzarella finished with arugula, parmesan cheese and lemon basil aioli.

Baked woodfire

Battle Cry: You can really taste the difference at Peel when all menu and recipe decisions are made by chefs who are passionate about the food and taste experience.

pizzajoint

St. Lo uis -St yl e piz za is tr ad itio na lly ma de wi th “cr ac ke r-t hin ” cr us t, sa ns ye as t, wh ich is co mm on in re gu la r piz za do ug h. It’s ty pic al ly ma de wi th Pr ov el ch ees e (a St. Lou is de lic acy)— a co mb o of ch ed da r, Sw iss & pr ovolo ne ch ees es. ST L St yl e piz za s ar e th en cu t int o sq ua re s or re cta ng les ins tea d of we dg es. re is an an cie nt If it ain ’t bro ke don ’t fix it. wo od -fi ov en heats up to a me tho d of coo kin g pie s. The bri ck hei t, coo kin g piz za s wh opp ing 800 -90 0 deg ree s Fah ren ced, sm oky flavo r qui ckly an d eff icie ntly. That enh an tely unm atc hed. ma kes thi s sty le of piz za com ple

235 S. Florissant Road Ferguson, MO 63135 314-736-1810 baked-pizza.com

multiple locations peelpizza.com

get

tickets

$25 ga | http://bit.ly/BattleOfSlices

All tickets include samples from participating competitors, entertainment, cash bar and fun!* *all tickets subject to additional processing fees / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

37

st. louis-style

theslicedpint

Located on “The Hill” in St. Louis, Guido’s offers “A taste of Spain in the middle of Italy” with everything from classic Italian to traditional Spanish, but get the pizza! St. Louis style, cracker-thin crust topped with Provel and homemade pizza sauce.

At the Sliced Pint, pizza is made-to-order from scratch with locally sourced ingredients from Kenrick’s Meats and Old Tyme Produce to create a home-cooked feel.

In the Ring: Southwest with roasted corn puree’, mozzarella, chicken, chorizo, white onion and a coriander dusting.

Battle Cry: Artfully crafted, unique flavor combinations.

Kevin’s

pizza

In the Ring: Sausage & pepperoni because it’s a St. Louis original!

Battle Cry: Webringilfornotoyou!

Theovencanheatupto900⁰F, makingSt.Louis-stylepizzasinless thanfourminutesandNeapolitan stylepizzasinlessthantwo.The homemadepizzasaucemakesthem oneofakind!

pickleman’s

pizza

Kevin’s Place has been crafting brick oven, authentic St. Louis-style pizzas since 1979. The laid-back atmosphere of the establishment makes customers feel right at home. Chef Kevin McGinn works hard to get every pizza he makes and delivers as perfect as possible.

Pickleman’s pizza is served on a 12-inch thin, crispy crust that’s cut into squares in the traditional St. Louis-style. Pickleman’s is now also offering a 10-inch gluten-free cauliflower crust for $3.00 more.

In the Ring: Asiago Chicken with Asiago-Caesar dressing, mozzarella, grilled chicken and crumbled bacon.

Battle Cry: Apart from Pickleman’s being locally owned and operated, the Asiago Chicken is a one-of-a-kind pizza you’ll be telling all your friends about.

1511 Washington Ave, St. Louis, MO 63103 314-696-8787 theslicedpint.com

multiple locations picklemans.com

St. L ouis

guido'pizza s 5046 Shaw Ave. St. Louis, MO 63110 314-771-4900 guidosstl.com

In the Ring: Sausage and pepperoni (served with the option of hot sauce or no hot sauce) with a Provel based, 5-cheese blend and a crisp and flaky crust.

Battle Cry: Kevin McGinn, chef and owner, serves up pizza with a personality.

thursday 6-9pm 5003 Mardel Ave, St. Louis, MO 63109 314-353-1600

sept 12TH

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

dogtownpizza

FROZEN

Dan O’s Pizza was established in 2006 and is locally owned and operated by longtime friends, Dan Moran and Benny Hatfield.

Dan O’s offers delicious stonebaked carryout pizzas along with wide variety frozen items. Dan O’s is now proudly producing four new varieties of pizzas under the Cusumano’s label.

Dogtown Pizza takes pride in being family owned and operated.

The from-scratch pizzas are handmade using local ingredients the day they arrive. With more than 11 varieties of St. Louis-style, thin-crust pizzas, the top sellers are pepperoni, 4 Meat and tomato basil garlic.

In the Ring: 4 Meat with salsiccia, hickory-smoked bacon, pepperoni and ham.

Battle Cry: Local, handmade, family-operated and topped with the most ingredients in the frozen pizza industry.

LENA’S

pizza

Battle Cry: A true St. Louis-style must have two things: a crispythin crust and Provel cheese.

Lena’s is the only frozen pizza to give you both.

314-651-9995 dogtownpizza.com

314-571-5114 lenaspizzastl.com

pizza

In the Ring: Three Meat with St. Louis-style cheese blend, spicy pepperoni, house made sausage and smoky bacon plus a few surprises.

Battle Cry: BestFlippin’Pizza Around!™

Lena’s Pizza is the only frozen pizza topped with 100 percent real Provel cheese – a must for truly authentic St. Louis-style pizza. Each is locally made by hand with from-scratch shells, sauce and their very own sausage recipe, along with other high-quality toppings like whole strips of bacon and fresh-cut veggies.

In the Ring: Four Meat with sausage, Canadian bacon, pepperoni, bacon strips and Provel cheese.

the bar

The Bar Pizza is made at a local, family-owned frozen pizza company who saw an opportunity to get the VERY best bar pizza to you in the very comfort of your home. Get them at stores all over the STL area including Schnucks and Dierbergs.

dano'pizza s 3477 New Town Blvd.

St. Charles, MO 63301 636-724-DANO (3266) danos-pizza.com

In the Ring: A thin crust Mega Meat Pizza with a unique 5-cheese blend of Provel and heavy toppings of crumbled sausage, slices of pepperoni and bacon crumbles.

Battle Cry: We pay a premium for our products, and it comes through in the flavor.

3820 Ultra Comp Dr, Earth City, MO 63045 636-332-9005 thebarpizza.com

wood-fired restaurant-style frozen st. louis-style

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PROMOTION

AS THE WEATHER BEGINS TO COOL AND THE SEASONS START TO CHANGE, It’s time to fall back into a routine of healthy habits. September is Family Meal Month and I’m reminded again and again about the positive, lifelong benefits of eating meals together. There is something to be said about the power of social connections made around the dinner table that can nourish your spirit and your health.

Besides the health benefits of eating meals together at home, let’s not forget that it can also save you a significant amount of money. And who doesn’t love that? Most of the meals you get at a restaurant for about $15, you can make at home for only $5. The average American eats out about four times a week, so think about all the money you can save! Eating at home also allows you to make your food how you want it. You can control your portions and know exactly what you are putting in your body.

If you’re in a dinner rut, one way to break up the boredom is to plan a special meal and let your family take turns choosing the theme. My favorite has always been “Foods from Around the World” where you can explore new tastes and textures like this Chickpea Curry. This month’s recipe will hopefully inspire you to cook more meals at home and show you that you can make delicious meals that the whole family will love. Together we can keep our families closer and our wallets fuller as we gather ‘round the dinner table, one delicious meal at a time. For more thrifty family meals ideas that help you save money without sacrificing flavor, grab a copy of our September Simply Schnucks magazine.

CHICKPEA CURRY SERVES 4

1 Tbsp olive oil 3 onions 1 tsp mustard seeds ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp chili powder 1 Tbsp curry powder 1 2-inch piece of ginger, finely sliced 4 cloves of garlic 10 curry leaves 2 cans chickpeas 1 vegetable stock cube 1 can whole tomatoes 1 ½ cups hot water ½ can light coconut milk 1 cup baby spinach 1 bunch of fresh cilantro

PREPARATION: Youcancontrolyourportionsandknowexactlywhatyouareputting in your body. Add onion and cook until onion becomes translucent and begins to brown, about 5-7 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and curry leaf. Continue to cook until garlic is fragrant, about 3-4 minutes. Add the spices and curry powder then continue to cook for 1-2 minutes.

Add chickpeas with their juice, then crumble in the vegetable stock cube. Add the tomatoes and hot water. Stir to incorporate.

Season lightly with sea salt and black pepper, then slowly bring to boil, breaking up the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Add more water if needed.

Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove lid add the coconut milk and spinach to the pan, stir well, then bring back to a boil. Taste, season then tear the cilantro leaves over the top. Serve with brown basmati rice or grilled naan.

Sponsored content by KARA BEHLKE REGISTERED DIETITIAN Schnucks Director of Health and Wellness

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Stay In Sugar rush / 3 ways / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, these rich cookies are a chocolate-lover’s dream.

Their crinkled exterior comes from beating the eggs for longer than usual, aerating the dough and creating a nice rise in the oven. Be sure to gently fold in the flour at the end to keep air in the mixture, and you’ll have a beautifully crackled crust with a fudgy cookie. Since this recipe uses a large quantity of chocolate, purchase high-quality chocolate and cocoa powder; this will ensure a great tasting cookie with an intense chocolate flavor.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and chocolatier, Now, Forager in Kansas City

Hazelnut Truffle Cookies

yields 12 cookies 1 cup hazelnuts 8 oz bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped ½ cup all-purpose flour 1½ Tbsp cocoa powder ¼ tsp baking powder ¹⁄₈ tsp kosher salt 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 3 eggs 1½ tsp vanilla extract flaky sea salt, for sprinkling / preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Place

I recommend using a high-quality chocolate in this recipe, like those from Valrhona or Guittard.

hazelnuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and toast in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until hazelnuts are fragrant and skins begin to flake. Remove to a cooling rack; leave oven at temperature. When hazelnuts are cool enough to handle, wrap them in a clean kitchen towel and rub together to remove skins (not all skins will come off). Once cool, roughly chop and set aside.

In a heatproof bowl, add chocolate and set over a pan of gently simmering water. Allow chocolate to melt, stirring occasionally, until completely melted. Set aside off heat to cool slightly.

In a mixing bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

pair with: Bourbon

PA I R IT!

Pairing a rich chocolate treat with a cocktail can be tricky: You need a drink with a little backbone to stand up to it.

For hazelnut cookies, a riff on the Nut and Berries Cocktail works beautifully, especially with a high-proof whiskey to bolster the ABV. I recommend Big Boom Straight Bourbon from S.D. Strong Distilling in Parkville, Missouri: In a shaker tin, combine 1 ounce whiskey, ¾ ounce hazelnut liqueur, ¾ ounce raspberry liqueur and ½ ounce heavy cream; add ice and shake well. Double strain into a rocks glass without ice. Serve. –Jenn Tosatto sdstrongdistilling.com

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine butter and sugar on medium speed; cream together for 4 minutes.

Add in eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Increase mixer speed to high and beat for 4 minutes until eggs are pale and light.

Reduce speed to low, add vanilla and melted chocolate and mix until mostly combined.

Remove bowl from mixer and finish folding in chocolate with a spatula. Fold in flour mixture until just combined (be careful not to over mix).

Using a cookie scoop or 1 tablespoon, portion out dough onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, spacing cookies 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and sea salt. Bake cookies for 14 minutes, or until edges are set and centers are puffed. Remove to a cooling rack. Store cookies in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Stocking your fridge with homemade

yields 1½ cups

pesto makes weeknight meals incredibly easy and delicious. Mix this pesto with

Basil-Arugula Pesto

roasted vegetables or your favorite pasta for a quick and flavorful meal.

2½ 3 ¼ ¼ ¹⁄₃ 1

cups fresh basil leaves cups fresh arugula cup pine nuts cup grated Parmesan cup olive oil tsp garlic powder kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation / In the bowl of a food processor, add all ingredients except salt and pepper and blend until smooth. Taste pesto and add salt and pepper to taste.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.

Never heard of mozzarella ciliegine?

Serves 4 to 6

It’s the fresh, cherry-sized balls of mozz available in most grocery store cheese departments.

Prosciutto-Basil Rolls 1 lb prosciutto, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh basil leaves 8 oz fresh mozzarella ciliegine 1 8-oz jar marinated red peppers, sliced into ½-inch strips 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp finishing salt

This refreshing appetizer is perfect for summer and

/ preparation / On a clean work surface, lay out slices of prosciutto in an even row. Evenly distribute fresh basil leaves among slices, placing 2 leaves on one end of each slice. Layer 2 to 3 mozzarella balls on top of basil, followed by 2 slices each of marinated red peppers. Carefully roll up prosciutto slices to form spring roll shapes. Drizzle rolls lightly with olive oil and balsamic and sprinkle with finishing salt. Serve.

incredibly easy to assemble.

Serves 4 to 6

Spicy Roasted Tomatoes with Basil

2 lbs tomatoes, quartered ¹⁄₃ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 Tbsp red pepper flakes ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, torn into large pieces kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste grilled bread slices (to serve)

There’s nothing better than fresh basil – I love it so much that I refuse to buy dried. There’s just no comparison when it comes to the freshness of this sweet and savory herb. Its subtle flavor and freshness enhances any dish – whether you cook with it or use it as a garnish.

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/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F.

This simple meal is easy but packed with fresh flavor. The tomatoes become sweeter as they roast, so the addition of red pepper flakes and

Story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo,

basil really helps balance out all of

writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

the flavor notes.

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

In a large bowl, add tomatoes and 2 tablespoons olive oil; toss to coat. In a large baking dish (or 2 small baking dishes), add tomatoes, taking care to evenly distribute without much overlapping. Drizzle remaining oil evenly over tomatoes. Tuck basil into spaces between tomatoes and sprinkle red pepper flakes over top; season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake for 28 to 30 minutes. Serve warm alongside grilled bread slices.

HAPPY HOUR

STOP WAITING FOR FRIDAY.

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$6 BRUSCHETTA

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WINE& CHEESE ADVENTURE!

~ cheese and charcuterie boards ~ gourmet sandwiches ~ cheese tastings ~ wine and beer pairings 1099 Welt Street, Weston, MO 64098

GREENDIRTFARM.COM/CREAMERY

SMOKED OLD FFASHIONED ($8) Our Smoked Old Fashioned is made with Buffalo Trace bourbon and served in a maple-wood-smoked glass.

Sweet BBQ Chicken

HAPPY HOUR IS 4:30 PM TO 6:30 PM | SUN - THURS

TheOrderSGF.com

Artist Dinner Series Building on the history of unique culinary

events hosted by Kemper Museum’s Café

Sebastienne under the direction of Executive Chef Rick Mullins, join us for a special series

of Twenty-Fifth Anniversary Artist Dinners with a remarkable artist-inspired menu each night.

Prices include dinner, drinks, and gratuity.

For more information and to purchase tickets visit kemperart.org/artist-dinner-series.

4420 Warwick Boulevard, Kansas City, MO 64111 816-753-5784 | Café Sebastienne | Museum Shop

Born in Edinburgh, UK, Hew Locke spent his formative years in Guyana, before returning to the UK where his current work explores how different cultures fashion their identities through visual symbols of authority, and how these representations are altered by the passage of time.

Expect a creative and complex menu that parallels the artist’s oeuvre. $125 per person *RSVP online to attend the free Artist Talk at 6:00 p.m.

Photo: Stan Narten Photo courtesy of the artist © Max McClure

Friday, September 13, 7:30 p.m.

Wednesday, October 2, 6:30 p.m.

Artist Hung Liu grew up in China under the Maoist regime, and is known for paintings based on historical Chinese photographs which challenge the documentary authority of such images. With deep connections to Kemper Museum and Kansas City, enjoy a celebratory meal with the artist on the anniversary of Kemper Museum’s founding. $500 per person

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

I recommend using RumHaven

Caribbean Rum. Serves 1

The Dude from Dublin

Do you like cream with your coffee? A cocktail for cold-brew enthusiasts and White Russian fans alike, this number hits on all cylinders. Locally made cold-brew coffee, rich Irish cream liqueur, coconut rum and bitter, herbal Fernet-Branca balance out this crushable caffeinated cocktail.

Add a couple dashes of Angostura bitters and an orange zest garnish and you’ll be way fancier than The Dude in no time.

2 1 1 ½ 2

Story and recipe

by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits Co. in Springfield, Missouri

oz cold-brew coffee oz coconut rum oz Irish cream liqueur oz Fernet-Branca dashes Angostura bitters orange zest (for garnish)

/ preparation / In a shaker tin with ice, add all ingredients except garnish. Shake vigorously until mixture is diluted and ice cold. Pour contents, unstrained, into a rocks glass. Twist and squeeze orange peel over drink to express oils and submerge in drink. Top with extra ice, if desired. Serve.

Photograph by Starboard & Port Creative

My favorite Irish cream liqueur is Five Farms, imported by Holladay Distillery in Weston, Missouri.

The liqueur is made with fresh cream from five farms in County Cork, Ireland, and is blended with triple-distilled Irish whiskey.

3 Cold Brews to Use Mix one of these local cold brews into The Dude from Dublin.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

 SGF

 STL

 KC

The Coffee Ethic Pick up a 32-ounce growler of Remedy cold brew for $15 and all your refills will be just $9. The chocolate-forward, citrusy blend of Ethiopian- and Colombian-origin coffee is available year-round.

Sump Coffee Originally launched in collaboration with 4 Hands Brewing Co., Sump Coffee is now partnering with Rockwell Beer Co. to can its cold brew. The seasonal, single-origin coffees are canned at the brewery and sold at Sump, plus a few partner businesses.

The Roasterie Pop the top of a can of The Roasterie’s signature, nitro or CBD-infused cold brew to mix into a cocktail, or sip naturally flavored varieties like chocolate-raspberry, Lavender Wild or All Hopped Up solo.

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Kevin Klein

brewer 2nd Shift Brewing

Craft Beer Jerky photo by kelly glueck

“I’m not a big sweets guy, but I love the sweet and savory dynamic with Craft Beer Jerky. Boulevard Brewing Co.'s Tank 7 is one of my favorite beers, and the unfermented sweetness left over from the beer plays nicely with the cured meat.”

In Perryville, Missouri, you’ll find Stonie’s Sausage Shop, a one-stop destination for whole muscle beef jerky. At Stonie’s, jerky is seasoned – with different blends, depending on flavor – and then dried over hickory smoke. Flavors include natural, sweet, spicy and teriyaki.

Stonie’s also offers a range of flavored beef snack sticks, plus those made with elk, venison and bison meat. shopstonies.com.

In El Dorado Springs, Missouri, Cedar Creek Beef Jerky offers beef jerky in five flavors: original, peppered, hot, teriyaki and Hot-YT-Taki, a spicier spin on its popular teriyaki. Each flavor is made with whole-muscle beef sliced and smoked on-site and sold in 4-ounce bags online and through select retailers. To learn more or get a taste, visit cedarcreekbeefjerky.com.

The premise for Craft Beer Jerky is in the name: Based in Kansas City, Missouri, the company produces a line of handcrafted jerky infused with craft beers both local and national. Try favorites such as Boulevard Brewing Co. Tank 7, Cinder Block Brewery porter or 4 Hands Brewing Co. Divided Sky IPA jerkies. To learn more and find retailers near you, visit craftbeerjerky.com.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

Beef Jerky Is there a better or more satisfying on-the-go snack than beef jerky?

No matter the season, biting into a smoky, tender strip of quality jerky hits the spot – and since it’s packed with protein, you’re sure to be satiated for some time.

Written by Liz Miller / photo by sarah conroy

At The Smokehouse Market in Chesterfield, Missouri, beef jerky is just one of the housemade and smoked products on offer – and also one of the most popular. The sister business of award-winning restaurant Annie Gunn’s, The Smokehouse Market prides itself on sourcing meat from local farmers, including Crooked Creek Beef in Franklin County, Missouri, and Triple S Farms in Stewardson, Illinois, to make its famous smoked beef jerky. To learn more, visit smokehousemarket.com.

Swiss Meat & Sausage Co. in Swiss, Missouri, is a small, family-owned business that's been producing smoked meats and sausages for decades. Both on-site and online, Swiss offers a range of jerky and snack sticks, including its bacon jerky, made with lean cuts of ground beef and the shop’s awardwinning cured bacon. To learn more or buy a pack, visit swissmeats.com.

Unique Shops Quaint Restaurants Lovely Lodging

ADVA NCE REQU TICKETS IRED

A picture perfect day trip & Peaceful Getaway Taste of Kimmswick Sept 28 (25 min. from Downtown St. Louis)

Apple Butter Festival Oct 26 & 27

GOKIMMSWICK.COM

636-464-6464

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!

Do your body and taste buds a favor and order fresh oysters • Low in fat • High in protein • Rich in minerals and vitamins

314-993-4844 8660 Olive in U City bobsseafoodstl.com

MEET COLUMBIA THROUGH THE EYES OF KYLE COOK CO-OWNER, HITT RECORDS

Why did marathoner/music buff/disc jockey/entrepreneur Kyle Cook choose Columbia to set up shop? Maybe because - like his record store, which happens to come with a bar, cafe, art gallery and independent theater - Columbia has something for everyone.

Or everything, for someone like Kyle. See his story and others at MeetCOMO.com. / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

47

SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Find this Italian specialty locally from St. Louis-based Volpi Foods.

What Is It? Bresaola is a truly beautiful thing: a salt-cured hunk of beef from the top round that's meticulously trimmed of fat and then allowed to air dry for months until firm and sliceable. As if that weren’t enough, the meat is rubbed with spices such as juniper and cinnamon before it rests, resulting in layers of darkly sweet, concentrated beef flavor that smells like it’s just emerged from the depths of your Italian nonna’s cellar.

What Do I Do With It? First, you find it: Until 2000, Italian bresaola hadn't been imported to the U.S. since 1930 due to a tariff act allowing only cooked beef products from Italy.

For that reason, it’s a lesser-known cured meat than prosciutto or soppressata, and it’s not always hanging out in your supermarket. Call your nearest Italian meat market or head to the internet, but always buy from a reputable source, or you’re not going to be experiencing the real thing. Once you have it in hand, serve it – always sliced paper-thin – with hot-from-the-oven focaccia drizzled with a little olive oil and lemon juice, or twirl it into a simplysauced pasta. I like it with a little pesto sauce or sitting on top of cacio e pepe.

Before you even think it, no, this isn’t “chipped beef.”

How dare you.

Written by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com photography by Jennifer Silverberg

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Goodbye, berry salads!

Summer is coming to a close this month, and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than with a decidedly autumnal salad. There’s so much flavor layered into this that it barely needs dressing: Just a simple drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice does the trick. If you’re feeling fancy, switch out toasted walnuts for the candied sort, or sub in herbed goat cheese for plain.

French Lentil Salad with Bresaola

Serves 4

1½ cups uncooked French lentils, rinsed 5 to 6 sprigs fresh thyme

5 cups water

2 small fennel bulbs, sliced paper-thin

1 small head radicchio, cored, thinly sliced

2 cups loosely packed celery leaves, chopped 1¹⁄₃ cups walnuts, pan-toasted, roughly chopped

8 oz bresaola, sliced paper-thin ½ cup olive oil juice of 4 lemons sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 oz goat cheese, crumbled / preparation / In a large

saucepan over high heat, add lentils, thyme and water and heat until boiling. Reduce heat to low; simmer uncovered 15 to 20 minutes until tender but not mushy. Transfer to a strainer and rinse under cold water; remove thyme sprigs and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine fennel, radicchio, celery leaves and walnuts. Add bresaola slices and toss. Add cooked lentils, olive oil and lemon juice. Using your hands or tongs, toss until evenly incorporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste and divide onto plates. Divide goat cheese over salads and check seasoning; season again with salt and pepper to taste, if desired, and serve.

pair with: Dry Rosé

PA I R IT!

This recipe packs a ton of flavor, so you’ll want a wine that won’t compete with it. Opt for a refreshing dry wine, such as the Chambourcin rosé from Cave Vineyard Winery & Distillery in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. It’s a crisp and refreshing companion to this autumn salad, offering fruit-driven flavors and balanced acidity without too much tannin, which would overpower the salad’s rich and flavorful ingredients.

–Hilary Hedges cavevineyard.com

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Oyster Mushrooms

SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

with Robiola Cheese Sauce

If you’re lucky enough to have a mushroom purveyor at your local farmers’ market,

you’d be remiss not to buy their most lovely mushroom cluster and treat it as you would the finest steak.

The umami, earthy flavor of mushrooms pairs perfectly with a creamy cheese sauce and a woody herb such as sage. Robiola cheese is a soft-ripened cheese made with a mix of goat’s, cow’s and sheep’s milk that’s ideal for using in a simple sauce to complement hearty mushroom clusters.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef, Peachtree Catering and Rustic Supper in Columbia, Missouri Photography by Drew Piester

serves 4 to 6 robiola cheese Sauce

8

1 1 1 2

¾

oz robiola cheese, rind removed and discarded, cut into cubes Tbsp olive oil garlic clove, minced shallot, minced Tbsp chopped fresh sage, divided kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup heavy cream

Mushrooms

2 lbs oyster mushroom clusters 2 Tbsp olive oil kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

pair with: English Mild Ale

PA I R IT!

I would approach pairing beer with mushroom "steaks" just as I would with beef steaks. With that in mind, I recommend reaching for Mamoot from Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, a fantastic beer and five-time medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival and Best of Craft Beer Awards. This English mild ale balances toasty notes with hints of coffee, accenting the rich, earthy flavors in the mushrooms. The fact that it's only 4 percent ABV means you're getting a lot of flavor packed into each sip without a strong bite. -Justin phelps logboatbrewing.com

/ preparation – robiola cheese sauce / Place cheese in a heatproof bowl and set aside. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil, garlic, shallot and 1 tablespoon sage and season with salt and pepper to taste. When garlic and shallot are translucent, roughly 2 to 3 minutes, add heavy cream; heat until simmering. Pour cream mixture over cheese in heatproof bowl and cover with plastic wrap; allow to cool for 10 minutes. Using an immersion blender or hand-held mixer, blend sauce until smooth. / preparation – mushrooms / Line a baking sheet with

parchment paper and set aside. Preheat oven to broil. In a small bowl, toss mushrooms with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer mushrooms to lined baking sheet and broil until crispy around the edges, approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Turn broiler off and let mushrooms continue cooking in hot oven until tender, 5 to 10 minutes more. Arrange mushrooms on a platter and pour warm cheese sauce over top. Garnish with reserved sage. Serve immediately.

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CULINARY LIBRARY /

st. louis

with Chris Bolyard

/

owner, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

tChris Bolyard had already made a name for himself in the St. Louis food scene when he decided to open

a butcher shop in 2014. After a decade as chef de cuisine at acclaimed Sidney Street Cafe, Bolyard and his wife, Abbie, opened Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri. Known for local, pasture-raised meats – not to mention a signature selection of house charcuterie and extras such as pimento cheese, kimchi and mushroom conserva – Bolyard’s is now a neighborhood mainstay. Here, Bolyard shares three of the books that helped shape his craft. -Nancy Stiles

The Butcher’s Guide to Well-Raised Meat

by Joshua and Jessica Applestone (2011) “This book was one of the first meat-centric books I bought. It really helped inspire me to open Bolyard’s [because] it emphasizes sourcing whole animals from humane, sustainable and pastoral farms.”

Ideas in Food

by Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot (2010) “This book is almost a decade old... I don't know if it qualifies as a classic yet. It’s books like this that taught me to look at food in a different light and apply new and modern techniques in a playful way.” photo by zach bauman

Tacos: Recipes and Provocations

by Alex Stupak and Jordana Rothman (2015) “Masa is one of my favorite flavors, whether it’s in tortillas or tamales. This book is fun and approachable while staying true to the simplicity of Mexican cuisine.”

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

Ava, MO.

with Adrian Buff / owner and cheesemaker, Grison Dairy & Creamery Written by Juliana Goodwin photography by tessa cooper

Adrian Buff spent much of his childhood in Switzerland on his family’s dairy farm; eventually, they uprooted and moved to Ava, Missouri, to start a new dairy operation. When he was 20, Buff decided to return to Switzerland to learn the art of cheese-making.

Five years later, he returned to Ava, and in late 2018, began producing cheese using milk from his family’s farm. To honor his heritage, Buff focuses on making Swiss-style cheeses: He currently offers Grisontaler, a nutty cheese made with raw milk and aged at least three months, and Ozark Mutschli, a semi-hard, creamy, washed-rind cheese aged for at least one month.

What breed of cows do you raise on your family farm? Around 100 Holsteins and Brown Swiss. Holsteins are the black and white [cows] most common [for dairy farming]. Brown Swiss originally come from Switzerland – that’s what we milked when we lived there. The Holsteins produce more quantity of milk; the Brown Swiss have more protein and butterfat.

You make your cheese at Terrell Creek Farm in Fordland, Missouri. How did that relationship come about? I met [Terrell Creek Farm owner] Lesley [Million] at the American Cheese Society conference in Iowa; I was working in Illinois for Ludwig Farmstead Creamery [at the time]. Then in March 2018, I stopped by and bought some cheese. She said, “I was wondering if you’d be interested

in making cheese here?” I would have had to invest a lot of money if I built my own facility.

What makes Swiss cheese unique? It uses a special bacteria called Propionibacterium freudenreichii, which ferments the lactic acid into acetate propionate, carbon dioxide and water. The build-up of carbon dioxide is what gives Swiss cheese its "eyes" or holes.

Perfect Pairings Adrian Buff shares food and wine pairings to accompany his two cheeses.

BOzark Mutschli

texture that pairs well with a Riesling

a crisp white Grüner Veltliner.

a beer, opt for a classic Pilsner. Ozark Mutschli is a good melting cheese – try it in a fancy grilled cheese sandwich. feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

b

The Grisontaler pairs well with

or Beaujolais Nouveau. If you prefer

52

Grisontaler

This cheese has a creamy flavor and

Beer drinkers should sip on a saison with this cheese.

Try folding Grisontaler into a quiche or grated over pasta.

How much milk does it take to produce a wheel of your cheeses? I use 45 gallons at a time. I can make two wheels of Grisontaler, which are 17 to 20 pounds, or six wheels of Ozark Mutschli – those weigh six pounds each. facebook.com/grisondairy

Destination: Waterloo, Illinois

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GALLAGHER’S

Just 15 Minutes froM the JB Bridge!

- Aug – Sept. Live Music every Saturday!

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Menu now featuring select German entrees, sandwiches and appetizers as well as our Tavern favorites.

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1511 WASHINGTON AVENUE, ST. LOUIS, MO, 63103 314.696.8787 | THESLICEDPINT@GMAIL.COM / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Brandon Nickelson

blue RIBBON

BUrGER The team at 5 Star Burgers isn’t afraid to try new things.

Each month, the burger joint, which has two St. Louis-area locations in Clayton, and Creve Coeur, Missouri, offers a rotating “burger of the month,” ranging from a take on the Philly cheesesteak to a spin on St. Louis’ own legendary St. Paul sandwich. But we have trouble resisting 5 Star’s classic menu, which offers tried-and-true favorites such as the Blue Ribbon Burger with crispy smoked bacon, Port-braised onions and creamy Gorgonzola.

“This burger is full of complementary flavors that you'd usually only get in high-end steakhouses and restaurants,” says owner Steve Gontram. “Ruby Port is a natural pairing for blue cheese, and the sweet red onions are a perfect foil to the salty, tangy cheese, smoked bacon and buttery grilled beef.”

-Heather Riske

Recipe courtesy Steve Gontram, owner, 5 Star Burgers Photography by amy schromm

serves 4

2

2 4

1

1 4

8

4 4

4

lbs ground beef salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Tbsp unsalted butter, melted brioche buns cup Port wine red onion, julienned oz Gorgonzola, sliced into four 1-inch discs strips thick-cut, naturally smoked bacon, baked until crisp pieces green-leaf lettuce (to serve) tomato slices (to serve) bread-and-butter pickles (to serve) slices white onion (to serve)

/ preparation / Prepare a hot grill using your

owner Craft Beer Cellar Clayton and South City

5 star burgers “I love being so close to 5 Star. It's definitely the best place in Clayton for great quick food. My go-to is the Dad's Green Chile Cheeseburger... It’s spicy and delicious! And absolutely check out the daily happy hour.”

preference of fuel. If cooking indoors, use a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Divide beef into 4 half-pound patties, about 1-inch thick. Generously season patties with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Brush melted butter onto brioche buns. Using a skillet or oven broiler, toast buns until golden brown and set aside.

Place patties on the grill or in the cast-iron skillet and cook to your doneness preference, flipping halfway. During the last minute of cooking on the second side, place 1 disc of Gorgonzola on the center of the patty. Allow cheese to warm on patty until gooey and melted. Remove patty and place on the bottom side of bun.

In a saucepan, add Port wine and red onion.

/ to serve / Top burger with 2 strips of crispy

Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, cooking

bacon and a generous heap of Port-braised

until Port is about 75 percent reduced. Set aside.

onions. Serve, if desired, with green-leaf lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion.

“You can cook these patties to your liking, but keep in mind that a medium-rare burger will have an internal temperature of approximately 135°F. For medium-well, look for an internal temperature of approximately 150°F.” –Steve Gontram

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Braciolini With complex flavors of Provolone and Pecorino cheeses, prosciutto and garlic rolled into a Spiedini-esque dish, braciolini works as an entrée or addition to any appetizer plate.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Feast Magazine and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School at 6pm on Wed., Sept. 18, at the Des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes on this month’s menu. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP

nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/ cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

Yields 12 rolls 3 large garlic cloves, smashed 1½ cups panko bread crumbs ½ bunch fresh parsley ¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino cheese ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 18 oz beef tenderloin, cut into 12 1½-ounce pieces 1 Tbsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 12 thin slices Provolone cheese 12 slices prosciutto ½ cup grapeseed oil / preparation / In the bowl of a food processor, add garlic, bread crumbs and parsley and pulse until well combined. Transfer mixture to a small bowl. Stir in Pecorino cheese and olive oil until a wet crumb mixture forms. Set aside.

Place 1 piece of beef tenderloin between two

sheets of parchment paper and add ¼ tsp water to the top of meat. With a meat mallet or rolling pin, gently pound tenderloin until it's about the size of your hand. Repeat with remaining pieces.

Set each piece of pounded meat on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Season meat with salt and pepper on all sides.

Starting with 1 piece of meat, add a slice of Provolone, tearing the cheese apart so it will fit in the middle of the meat. Top with a piece of prosciutto and 1 teaspoon of bread crumb mixture. Roll up tightly like a burrito, using a toothpick to secure the seam. Roll in bread crumb mixture. Repeat with remaining pieces of meat.

In a skillet over medium-high heat, add grapeseed oil. When oil is hot, add braciolini and fry for 1 to 1½ minutes per side. Serve immediately.

In this class, you’ll learn how to properly use a meat mallet to pound out beef tenderloin. You’ll also learn how to give an Italian spin to a side of green beans.

MAKE THE MEAL • Caprese Salad with Arugula • Italian Green Beans • Pappardelle Pangritata • Braciolini • Affogato with Biscotti

Lo re m

Rommel

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Bell

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Point your nose to the wind, and breathe in that mouthwatering, tummy growling smell of barbeque at Lutz!

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SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / THE DISH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Turn to p. 61 for this perfectly pan-seared steak recipe.

b There are few things more tantalizing than cutting into a well-cooked steak: all that

blackened crust giving way to supple crimson meat. In a world of exotic flavors and textures, there’s nothing quite like steak, and unlike most indulgences, you don’t have to leave the comfort of home to partake – all you need is the right information and a few tools.

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>

Written by Shannon Weber photography by jennifer silverberg

2.

On the Sauce T-Bone. Picture a classic steakhouse meal, and the T-Bone will likely be the cut that materializes alongside your baked potato. Cut from the short loin near the stomach, this beast is two steaks in one: A tenderloin and a strip steak bookend the bone, carrying their own distinct flavor and texture profiles due to differences in fat content.

However, this blessing can be a curse if you don’t know your way around the cut: One side will need to be tended to differently than the other, so cook it on the grill where you can use both indirect and direct heat to get it right.

Think Local Our region has some of the finest steak sauces money can buy, ready-made for you

Porterhouse. The big boy of steaks, the Porterhouse is the same cut as the T-Bone, but hails from the opposite side of the short loin toward the rear. Everything about it is extra: Cut cartoonishly thick, it has a larger circumference and more muscle, making it slightly less tender than other cuts, but with incredible flavor. Because of the variety of cuts, it can be tricky to cook, and given the cost of both Porterhouses and T-Bones, it’s not one you want to hone your skills with.

to throw on any cut of meat you desire. Our favorites for a classic steakhouse vibe?

WAndria’s Brush-On Steak Sauce

Rib eye. An all-around favorite, it’s the cut with near-perfect levels of marbling needed to achieve an ideal balance of flavor and texture. Typically cut slightly thinner than T-Bones and Porterhouses, it’s a well-sized slab of beef that cooks up just as well in a cast-iron skillet as it does a grill, making it a steak for all seasons. The price is right as well: It’s not cheap, but its relative affordability makes it an easy choice for weeknight meals. If you want drama, look for the bone-in variety – often called tomahawk steak due to the large rib “handle” left on – or go for the more common boneless variety.

Kansas City Strip and New York Strip. Oh, the controversy! The strip steak’s alleged history is as delicious as the cut itself. Legend has it that the strip began life as the Kansas City strip, named for its origination in the famed stockyards and slaughterhouses of the Midwest. Sometime in the 1930s, certain swanky restaurateurs in New York City were put off by the name, so they changed it, thereby claiming the steak as their own. Questions remain: What’s the difference between the two? Is there a difference? The answer may depend on where you’re from and who you ask. In general, the steak is a T-Bone minus the tenderloin side. Some claim Kansas City strips have the bone attached and an extra strip of fat, while the New York strip is boneless with the excess strip of fat removed. No matter what you call it, it’s a tender cut with beautiful marbling, which yields deep flavor from the grill or in a cast-iron skillet.

(andrias.com) WTucker’s Place Grill-On Steak Sauce (tuckersplacestl.com).

Think Global Treat your steak to a little trip around the world with some globally inspired sauces. If you’re in the mood

Filet Mignon. The Prom Queen of steak cuts, filet mignon is tremendously popular among people craving supple, buttery texture. Cut from the tip of the tenderloin near the rib area, it’s leaner than other cuts, and therefore can be a little lacking in the flavor department – typically remedied by a bacon-wrapped exterior.

Easy to cook, even easier to eat, provided you keep things at medium rare or rare to avoid it becoming chewy and overdone. Hot tip: That bacon wrap can also hide the evidence of tinier filets rolled together to form a single “filet,” which isn’t what you want. Remember that filet is a pricey cut, so avoid the $5 specials and head straight for your favorite butcher.

for bold herbal flavor, opt for

Top Sirloin. Cut near the rear, top sirloin has a reputation – largely undeserved – as junk steak from fast-food steakhouses of yore. Is it cheap? Compared to other cuts, it’s very affordable, and although not as prized as a Porterhouse, it’s a solid backyard grilling cut that’s easy to cook. You’ll get great flavor, texture and flexibility to boot: Classic steakhouse cuts are best served whole, while cuts such as flank or hangar require thin slicing; top sirloin can be served either way. Grilling is your best bet here – the flavor only improves when infused with smoke.

scallions. Feeling French?

Argentinian chimichurri or Italian salsa verde.

Head to the Far East with soy-chile sauces blended with melted butter and spiked with ginger and Whip up a compound butter with fresh herbs, shallots, pungent blue cheese, or all three.

Hangar. Taken from the underside closer to the middle in front of the flank, hangar steak takes its name from how it “hangs” from the diaphragm. Not long ago, it was strictly a butcher’s cut, reserved for those who did the work to enjoy it after selling off more popular cuts. Hangar steak is exceedingly tender when marinated and grilled, kept at medium-rare or below to avoid chewiness, and thinly sliced against the grain. Decidedly not a steakhouse staple, hangar is much more at home in fajitas, or simply fanned out alongside rice and vegetables, smothered in a chimichurri-style sauce.

Flank. Cut from the underside toward the legs, flank steak is very lean and can be grainy when cooked or sliced incorrectly. Like hangar steak, the cut is used more in cook-and-slice applications such as stir-fries. The meat is full of flavor, but can go tough easily; marinating is a must to keep things tender and juicy.

SUGAR RUSH / 3 WAYS / THE MIX / MIDWEST MADE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

3. A Guide to Doneness Cooking steak is all about breaking down proteins and rendering fat to get an optimal product – remember that certain cuts hold up better at specific temperature ranges than others. Forcing a filet to medium-well will only end in disappointment. Refusing to cook a beautifully marbled Porterhouse for long enough to allow the fat to melt and flavor the meat is criminal. Research different cuts and their optimal temperatures to really bring it home for everyone; we love the cooking time guide for different cuts at charbroil.com.

Blue Rare or “Pittsburgh Rare” Remove from Heat: 80°F to 100°F Serve Temp: 80°F to 100°F Deep ruby red, squishy, cool interior and barely warm exterior

Some folks like cooking steak directly on the grill grates, while others prefer to sear it in a cast-iron skillet. Here, we asked two chefs to share what they like about each of the approaches.

Team Cast-Iron Skillet Rick Lewis chef-owner, grace meat + three in st. louis

Rare Remove from Heat: 120°F Serve Temp: 125°F Red interior, ringed in pink, very tender and warm throughout

Medium-Rare Medium

Remove from Heat: 130°F

Remove from Heat: 140°F

Serve Temp: 135°F

Serve Temp: 145°F

Pink center fading to light brown toward the exterior, tender and warm throughout

Small center portion is pink with more light brown around it, less tender, slightly firm and hot throughout

Well Done, a.k.a. Overdone Remove from Heat: 160°F Serve Temp: 165°F Uniform brown or grey-brown color throughout, not tender, unyielding, dry and hot throughout.

No one should do this to steak.

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Medium-Well Remove from Heat: 150°F Serve Temp: 155°F Light to medium brown gradients with hint of pink in center, slightly dry, firm and hot throughout

“There are many reasons I enjoy cooking in cast iron.

The majority of the cast iron I own is mid-1800s Griswold that have been handed down from generation to generation.

There’s a very primitive and transcendent experience when cooking in something that has had so many memories.

A favorite way to cook in cast iron is directly over the coals; I feel like there’s a real connection between man, fire and food. There’s no better flavor than a steak or a piece of beef cooked in cast iron over coals, first seared over direct heat and then basted in brown butter over indirect heat with aromatics like garlic, thyme and bay leaves. The caramelization and flavor you get from this is amazing.”

Team Grilled Craig Jones chef-owner, savory addictions in kansas city “I love grilling. My friends will tell you how fanatical I can get about this subject – I grill outside about 300 days a year. My preferred method for cooking a steak is over live fire, for two reasons: It’s the only way to get that true wood-fired, smoky flavor, and it’s just more fun.

I use a method called reverse sear: We start with a very thick, heavily salted steak over low heat (275°F to 300°F) – not directly over the coals or flames. The steak cooks until it reaches an internal temperature of about 120°F. Then, I finish the steak over a blazing hot fire (600°F) for one minute per side. This produces a steak that’s a perfect medium-rare

Grill It Skillet? or

bSteaks are great fresh off

the grill or hot from the pan: Choose your method based on what’s most important to you.

Grill It

The benefits of grilling up a steak outdoors are obvious: You get to hang out with a steak where steak loves to be, charring it to perfection outside while keeping things tender and juicy on the inside. The flames of a grill add layers of unmistakable smoke flavor to your meat and the high temperature helps develop a crackly outer crust.

Steak is, by nature, a minutes-long project, so prepping a charcoal grill for 20 minutes only to cook something for five seems like a waste compared to longer, lazier projects such as ribs or chicken.

It can be messy, too: If you’re not careful, all that melting fat can cause flare-ups. If you’re Team Propane, you don’t have to worry about the prep, but you don’t have the smoke or focused heat either, so no added flavor or crust.

The Bottom Line: If smoky, flame-licked flavor is nonnegotiable, you’re cooking for guests or you’re project-grilling and want to finish out your evening by throwing a few steaks on for dinner, go right ahead.

Skillet Cooking steaks in a cast-iron skillet is ideal because cast iron retains heat in a way that other skillets and even barbecue grills

tBoneless rib eyes are my choice for skillet cooking because they’re guaranteed to work as long as you’re paying attention. Use a classic sear method – sear first, finish

in the oven – for a beautiful result. Timing is key: The difference between medium-rare and medium is mere seconds, so don’t walk away once things hit the oven.

don’t, and the screaming hot surface renders fat and creates an even, deep crust from constant direct exposure to that surface.

Before you begin, you may want to dig the batteries out of the nearest smoke detector, because high heat + fat = smoke, and not necessarily in a good way. To avoid issues, oil the meat, not the pan, and keep your exhaust fan running. It’s difficult to cook for a crowd using cast iron, simply because size matters: A large skillet usually only accommodates two rib eye steaks at most.

The Bottom Line: Cast iron gives you big-time control, crust and flavor, but it’ll be missing the satisfying smoke of a cookout.

Perfectly Pan-Seared Steak serves 1 to 2 1 12- to 16-oz boneless rib eye, 1- to 1½-inches-thick vegetable oil, for brushing kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper / preparation / Set steaks on a paper towel-lined pan to absorb excess moisture and allow to come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 450°F. Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat for 5 minutes.

Brush steak with oil and season very generously on both sides with salt and pepper (more than you think you need).

Lay steak in pan and do not move; sear for 2 minutes. Flip steak to opposite side. Insert a digital instant-read thermometer into center of steak and transfer to oven; cook until medium-rare, about 2 minutes, removing from oven when meat registers 120°F (or desired doneness; see chart on p. 60). Transfer to a plate and tent with aluminum foil to rest, 5 minutes. Serve immediately. / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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PROMOTION

fall

Sept 07

augusta | culture

Hot Jazz & Heroine Book Signing Sat., Sept. 7, 1pm-5pm

Augusta Winery is hosting an unofficial kick-off to fall with live music by the FoA Jazz Band and a book signing by Camille Faye, author of the Voodoo Butterfly book series.

Augusta Winery loves keeping it local - from growing their own grapes to supporting local music and authors. Sip on a southern-inspired wine cocktail, meet the author and jive and wail with some hot jazz! Sat., Sept. 7, 1pm-5pm (music) and 2pm-4pm (book signing); free; 5601 High St., Augusta, Missouri, 63332; 636.228.4301; augustawinery.com

Festivals and events

C

ardigans, sipping glasses and cravings for pumpkin-flavored goodies can only mean one thing — it’s time to experience the best of fall with festivals and events galore.

Fall in the Midwest brings about mild temps and a perfect, albeit final opportunity to enjoy the outdoors before winter blows in. For many, fall also equates to beer, wine, food and the Blues (both music and the Stanley Cup Champions). Beer-lovers have plentiful Oktoberfest and other tasting options in both St. Louis and Kansas City. Augusta wineries have been busy harvesting and filling their barrels for tastings, live entertainment, food and fun events.

Foodies can sample local flavors at various festivals across the state.

If culture is what you seek, nearly 100 local artists converge in St. Charles in September to showcase their talents to the aspiring community. If you have a need for speed, look up at the Chesterfield, Missouri sky and witness the awesome power and skill of world-class pilots.

st. charles | culture Sept Fine art FeStival 13-15 MoSaicS Fri., Sept. 13 to Sun., Sept. 15 Celebrating its 25th Anniversary in 2019, the Mosaics Fine Art Festival showcases local, regional and national artists in an effort to educate and foster the community surrounding fine art. Along with a diverse mix of artwork produced by emerging and established artists in 16 mediums, Mosaics also features a performance stage with live music and hands-on art experiences in the Children’s Village and Art Shop for Kids. Fri., Sept. 13 to Sun., Sept. 15, times vary; free; Historic North Main Street, First Capitol Drive to Adams Street, St. Charles, Missouri; 314.482.5476; stcharlesmosaics.org

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PROMOTION st. louis | culture Sept oF Stl air SHow & SteM expo 07-08 Spirit Sat., Sept. 7 & Sun., Sept. 8, 10am-5pm

st. louis | food Sept oF St. louiS 2019 13-15 taSte Fri., Sept. 13 - Sun., Sept.15

When you look up in air the first weekend in September, you just might witness something you've never seen in the St. Louis skies. The Royal Air Force Red Arrows, one of Europe’s premier jet aerobatic teams, and the world renowned U.S. Navy Blue Angels will be performing at the 2019 Spirit of St. Louis Air Show and STEM Expo in Chesterfield, Mo. In addition to flying demonstrations, the STEM Expo allows young people to experience of the power of technology and science. Tickets are limited and available online-only, so order in advance. Sat., Sept. 7 & Sun., Sept. 8, 10am-5pm; prices vary; Spirit of St. Louis Airport, 18270 Edison Ave., Chesterfield, Missouri, 63005; 636.530.2300; spirit-airshow.com

The Taste of St. Louis is moving back to Downtown St. Louis! The Taste of St. Louis 2019 celebrates its 15-year heritage with new attractions that highlight the amazing local talent STL has to offer in the music, culinary and community scene. Nibble on cuisine from the region's best eateries on Restaurant Row or watch top chefs battle it out in the Battle Royale on Sept. 13-15 at Soldier’s Memorial Park. Fri., Sept. 13 - Sun., Sept.15; free; Soldier’s Memorial Park, 1315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, Missouri, 63103; 314.622.4550; tastestl.com

Sept 14

kansas city | be verage

kc Beer FeSt Sat., Sept. 14, 3-6pm

KC Beer Fest, along with host Flying Saucer, is now in its 11th year celebrating beer in Kansas City. KC Beer Fest features unlimited samplings of more than 200 hand-picked craft beers from around the world, rare keg tappings, live music, gourmet food vendors and food trucks and more in the heart of Downtown’s Power & Light District. General admission begins at 3pm; VIPs earn early admission at 2pm, access to an exclusive VIP area with an appetizer buffet until 4pm, private restrooms and a souvenir T-shirt. Sat., Sept. 14, 3-6pm; $45, $70 VIP; Kansas City Power & Light District, 1330 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.842.1045; kcbeerfest.com

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Sept 18

st. louis | be verage

4 HandS lego nigHt Wed., Sept. 18, 6-10pm

Lego (and beer) lovers unite! Every third Wednesday of the month, 4 Hands Brewing Co. invites you to channel your inner child by building and creating with legos—all while drinking your favorite 4 Hands beer. Come join the party at 6pm.

All ages are welcome. Wed., Sept. 18, 6-10pm, 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. 8th Street, St. Louis, Missouri, 63104; 314.436.1559; 4handsbrewery.com/calendar

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PROMOTION augusta | beverage Sept augusTa HarvesT FesTival 20-21 Fri., Sept. 20 & Sat., Sept. 21 Sponsored by the Greater Augusta Chamber of Commerce, the festival starts Friday evening with the ever-popular "Swingin’ in the Vines" concert and picnic in the vineyard. The fun continues into Saturday with multiple events including a 5k fun run, parade, pie eating contest and square dancing! Saturday evening wraps up the festival with a “Fruit of the Harvest Wine Makers’ Dinner” multi-course gourmet dinner and silent auction as the sun sets across the vineyard. This event sells out each year so get your tickets early! Fri., Sept. 20 & Sat., Sept. 21; times vary; prices vary; various locations in Augusta, Missouri; 636.228.4005; augusta-chamber. org/event/annual-harvest-festival

Sept 29

kansas city | food

boysgrow Farm FesT 2019 Sun., Sept. 29, 12-4pm

Boys grow, you eat! Hosted by Lidia Bastianich, BoysGrow Farm Fest on Sept. 29 will have 10-12 local restaurants serving up small plates including Rye, Fox & Pearl, 7 Swans Creperie, Poi-o, Sayachi and more. Local breweries will also be featured within the Bier Hall, as well as a kid’s zone with a petting zoo and fishing pond. This is a casual and fun fall day on the farm with great food and great people to raise support for this youth program in Kansas City.

Sun., Sept. 29, 12-4pm; $50 for all you eat/drink, $15 for kids; 9301 E 147th St., Kansas City, Missouri, 64149; 773.793.5056; boysgrow.com

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Sept 26

st. louis | food

4 HaNds/1220 arTisaN spiriTs diNNer aT basso Thurs., Sept. 26, 7pm

Any night at Basso brings inventive takes on Italian cuisine—hello, beet carpaccio—served in the cozy-cool environs of this basement gastro pub. Basso will pair each dish with a featured 1220 Artisan cocktail for its upcoming beer dinner. Each of the five courses will use a different 4 Hands beer to craft unforgettable dishes, such as tempura-fried squash blossoms imbued with 4 Hands’ flowery Single Speed blonde ale. Thurs., Sept. 26, 7pm; $60; 7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 63117; 314.932.7820; basso-stl.com

augusta | beverage

thru Cellar TasTiNgs Oct Noboleis Every Saturday through the end of October; 2-2:45pm Every Saturday through the end of October, head to Noboleis Vineyards for guided cellar tastings. This unique event offers an intimate and elevated tasting experience in the barrel cellar filled with aging wine. Tastings include samples of six specially selected wines served in Riedel glasses and paired with a snack plate. General admission is $15. Every Saturday through the end of October; 2-2:45pm; $15; Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Rd., Augusta, Missouri, 63332; 636.482.4500; noboleisvineyards.com

PROMOTION

Sept 27-29

st. charles | be verage

Saint cHarleS oktoBerFeSt Fri., Sept. 27, 4pm-11pm, Sat., Sept. 28, 10am-11pm,

columbia | culture Sept 27-29 rootS n BlueS n BBQ FeStival Fri., Sept. 27 - Sun., Sept. 29

Sun., Sept. 29, 10am-5pm

Beer drinkers, brat eaters, run/walkers and wiener dogs all have a place at the Saint Charles Oktoberfest on Sept 27-29. Located at the Lewis & Clark Boat House Parking Lot, it's one of the biggest German-style celebrations of the year. Hoist a stein and join in this family-friendly event. VIP tickets include German food buffet and other amenities. Fri., Sept. 27, 4pm-11pm, Sat., Sept. 28, 10am-11pm, Sun., Sept. 29, 10am-5pm; VIP Lounge access: $65; DD VIP Lounge Access: $35; Lewis & Clark Boat House Parking Lot,1050 South Riverside Drive; saintcharlesoktoberfest.com

Oct kc oktoBerFeSt 04-05 Fri., Oct. 4, 5-11pm & Sat., Oct. 5, 11am-11pm kansas city | be verage

The Roots N Blues N BBQ Festival is a celebration of two of Missouri’s richest traditions: music and food. This three-day festival features 30 national, regional and local musicians on two stages, representing all genres of American roots music. With BBQ vendors and other food options from across the state, the festival is a family-friendly space to enjoy live music, food and interactive art installations. Fri., Sept. 27 - Sun., Sept. 29; various pricing; Stephens Lake Park, Columbia, Missouri; rootsnbluesnbbq.com

Oct 26

de soto | be verage

5tH annual Hallowine party at lacHance vineyardS Sat., Oct. 26, 6-10pm, band from 7-10pm

Can’t make it to Munich this year for Oktoberfest? Get your German on, KC-style! Presented

by KC Bier Co., Kansas City’s largest locally-owned brewery, KC Oktoberfest is back for its sixth year at the Crown Center on October 4 from 5-11pm and October 5 from 11am-11pm.

Throw on a Dirndl and enjoy German-style bier, German and American cuisine, "Festmusik" performed by local and national bands, dancers, shopping, crafts, games and competitions for children and adults. Prost! Fri., Oct. 4, 5-11pm & Sat., Oct. 5, 11am-11pm; General Admission tickets $10; 2450 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri; kcoktoberfest.com.

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What do you get when you mix your favorite holiday with your favorite drink?

HalloWINE! Head to LaChance Vineyards, costume in tow, and enjoy the 5th Annual Hallowine Party. Live music from the Merseal Brothers Band will be sure to get you on your feet. Put on your dancing shoes and throw on your best costume. Happy Hallowine!

Sat., Oct. 26, 6-10pm, band from 7-10pm; LaChance Vineyards, 12237 Peter Moore Lane, DeSoto, MO 63020; 636.586.2777; lachancevineyards.com

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PROMOTION augusta | be verage

Balducci vineyardS end oF HarveSt celeBration Sat., Nov. 2, 11-7pm & Sun., Nov. 3, 11-6pm

After many months of hard work harvesting grapes for its award-winning wines, Balducci Vineyards is throwing a bash to celebrate the end of harvest season! Head out to the Augusta winery for live entertainment, food and drink specials, bocce ball and other fun for the entire family, including a bonfire with s’mores. Sat., Nov. 2, 11-7pm & Sun., Nov. 3, 11-6pm; free; Balducci Vineyards, 6601 S Highway 94, Augusta, Missouri 63332; 636.482.8466; balduccivineyards.com

Nov 16

augusta | be verage

auguSta wine trail gala Sat., Nov. 16

Come for the views and stay for the wine at the Augusta Wine Trail Gala. Featuring a five-course wine dinner, the gala will take place at Montelle Winery in the new, beautiful event space overlooking the rolling hills of Augusta wine country. Join the winemakers for an elegant night including wine pairings from each of the four wineries: Montelle Winery, Augusta Winery, Noboleis Vineyards and Balducci Vineyards. Purchase tickets at augustawinetrail.com Sat., Nov. 16; $80/person; Montelle Winery, 201 Montelle Drive, PO Box 8, Augusta, Missouri, 63332; 636.228.4464; augustawinetrail.com

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Nov 02-03

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against Dine Out. hunger Fight Hunger.

Throughout September, purchase designated dishes at participating STL Chefs Against Hunger restaurants and a portion of the sale will go to help provide nutritious meals to local families in Missouri and Illinois.

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTs Bar Les Freres Billie l Jean Blueberry Hill Brasserie by Niche Cinder House Cleveland Heath Dewey’s Pizza (all locations) Eleven Eleven Mississippi

Evangeline’s Bistro & Music House Green Bean Delivery Hamilton Steakhouse I Fratellini Katie’s Pizza and Pasta (all locations) Pastaria Pickleman’s Gourmet Café (all locations) Pie Guy Pizza

For a complete list of participating restaurants and their featured dishes, along with details on how you can win a $50 gift card, please visit STLFoodbank.org or follow the Foodbank on social media: @STLFoodbank 68

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

PW Pizza Sardella Taste The Original Crusoe’s The Shaved Duck The Tavern Kitchen and Bar Vin de Set YaYa’s Euro Bistro

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culture shock

cattle man

hail to the beef

How one Missouri family made the leap from dairy farm to artisan creamery, producing German-style quark, cheese curds, Cheddar and mozzarella.

Retired U.S. Army Ranger Patrick Montgomery and a crew of fellow veterans are raising Wagyu cattle to produce top-quality beef in Weston, Missouri.

Since 1927, Wenneman Meat Co. in St. Libory, Illinois, has been sourcing, slaughtering, butchering and selling some of the best beef and pork in the Midwest.

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Retired U.S. Army ranger Patrick Montgomery and a crew of fellow veterans are raising Wagyu cattle to produce top-quality beef in Weston, Missouri

How one Missouri family made the leap from dairy farm to artisan creamery, producing German-style quark, cheese curds, Cheddar and mozzarella.

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin Photography by Keith Borgmeyer

As dawn breaks above the green

small-batch artisan cheeses. Today, their product lineup

pastures in Sweet Springs, Missouri,

includes cheese curds (which come in 10 flavors), Cheddar,

curious cows pause outside the milking parlor before Aaron Hemme calls out to his herd: “C’mon ladies, let’s get to work.”

Michael Hemme joins Aaron in the milking parlor, where the brothers will spend the next two hours or so milking their Holstein, Brown Swiss and Jersey cows, whose milk will soon be crafted into fresh cheese. It’s 5am, and the cows are just beginning their day, but next door, a third Hemme brother, Nathan, has already spent two and a half hours in the “make room,” where pasteurized milk begins its journey from cream to curd.

Outside, the fourth brother, Jon Hemme, is busy tending the heifers and later the corn, soybeans and other crops, which provide feed for the cows as well as additional income for the farm. This is a typical morning for the Hemme brothers, who, after returning to work on the farm following college graduation, founded Hemme Brothers Creamery in 2016 with their father, David.

Since making their first sale three years ago, the family has specialized in crafting both fresh and aged

PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT: David, Aaron, Michael and Nathan Hemme

aged Cheddar, smoked Cheddar, black pepper Cheddar, espresso Cheddar, fresh German-style quark and most recently, fresh mozzarella. A quality product is important, but the way David sees it, you have to know how to sell it, too. For him, it’s easy – it’s all centered around a photo of the Hemme family that hangs in the creamery’s lobby.

“It’s all about the story,” David says. “Not making up a story but telling yours. That picture… That’s the first thing you see, and that’s our story.”

Their story has captured the attention of shops, wineries and restaurants around the state, which stock and serve the cheese. It’s a staple in breads at Ibis Bakery in Kansas City and on cheese plates at Les Bourgeois Winery in Rocheport, Missouri, among many other venues. The creamery is one of many across the country that's bringing heritage cheesemaking traditions back to American cheese boards.

David says his palate has broadened since opening the creamery as well. “This morning, I had a cracked corn artisan wheat bread [from Ibis Bakery] with some quark and peach jam.

Who would have thought that’s what I would have eaten just five years ago?”

As the creamery’s head salesman, David spends most of his week on the road, taking cheese to sell at farmers’ markets and distributing to restaurants and wineries across the state. “I tell people, ‘You’re looking at the CEO, CFO and assistant janitor. If you want to find out something, call me,’" he says. “And if I don’t know, the head cheesemaker/lead janitor, Nathan, will know.”

It’s a completely new role for David, after having spent nearly 40 years as a dairy farmer.

David says this sort of change, and the ability to wear many hats, is one of the only constants on a successful farm. His family has farmed for seven generations in the same township.

The decision to open a creamery was purely economical, one that was sealed with a lid on the first jar of quark, which harkens to the family’s German heritage. The quark is tangy – sort of like Greek yogurt – spreadable and delicious. In 2017, the cheese was awarded first prize by the American Cheese Society in the category of Fresh Unripened Cows’ Milk Cheese.

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you have all this increase in size. There’s always been price

Brothers cheese, you’ll find a very short list of ingredients and

volatility, and you can live with that as long as you understand

no preservatives or other additives.

it. But now, there’s so many other factors that are out of your control.”

“Our cheese is [made with just] pasteurized cow’s milk, salt, culture and rennet,” David says. “We don’t add anything, and we

So three years ago, with David at the helm, the family decided

don’t take anything away.”

to take what they could into their own control. Instead of increasing herd size, they chose the valued-added route and

Together, the family has worked to breed cows whose milk has

opened the creamery. The family will gladly share the secret to

a solid balance of production volume and butterfat, which is

their success: High-quality milk makes high-quality cheese. If

the main ingredient in all the farm’s cheese. The combination of

you take a look at the nutrition label on any package of Hemme

Brown Swiss and Jersey breeds bring in high butterfat content in the milk, while Holsteins ramp up production volume. The

“Some people might think that we're just curious, or wanted to

butterfat makes up a small portion of the actual milk product,

be artisans or something, but no, it was 100 percent financial,”

but a large portion of the sales.

Michael says. “Commodity milk prices were crap, and they stayed crap for a while.”

“Our milk will run about 4.5 percent fat,” David says. “It will make up about 65 percent of our milk check. The other 95.5

The recent dip in commodity milk prices in America has

percent of that volume that we’re taking to town is only about

resulted in the closure of many small dairy farms across the

35 percent of our check.” Just 15 to 20 percent of the milk

state and nation; during the mid-2000s, there were 10 dairies

produced on the Hemme farm is used to make cheese; the rest

within a 15-mile radius of the Hemme farm. Today, the Hemme

is sold as commodities, ending up in gallon jugs in stores around

operation is one of just two nearby.

the region. The equipment the Hemmes currently use can only handle this fraction of milk, but by 2023, they hope to use all of

“Our opinion is, your typical commercial agriculture, where you’re just commodity-based, is basically a race to the bottom,” David says. “You do more and more for less and less, and then

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the milk for cheese production – 300,000 pounds per month.

Farm to Quark One of Hemme Brothers’ signature products is its German-style quark. Quark is the most unique cheese made at the creamery, and it’s also the easiest, according to head cheesemaker Nathan Hemme. But don’t let the word “easy” fool you – the process still takes more than 24 hours. Is it worth it? A blue ribbon from the American Cheese Society says yes. Here’s a look at how the quark gets from the Hemme herd to your table.

pa s t e u r i z e First, fresh cow’s milk is

pasteurized at 161°F, as is all milk on the farm.

d r a i n When the mixture reaches the ideal pH

level (for the Hemmes, a closely guarded secret), it’s scooped up and slipped into “socks” (long, fine-mesh sacks) and hung on hooks to drain from 10am to 6am the next day.

c u lt u r e Nathan brings the temperature down

r e n n e t After six hours, Nathan adds rennet (an

to 90°F and adds the culture, which is the first step in turning cream into any kind of cheese. The cheese is cultured for six hours; this step is what gives the quark its “tangy, Greek-yogurt” flavor, Nathan says.

enzyme that’s used to coagulate or set cheese) to begin the curdling process.

s a lt Next, Nathan adds 1 percent salt to the cheese mixture. Now, it’s quark.

pa c k a g e Working alongside his family, Nathan then sanitizes a new pair of latex gloves and scoops small portions of the quark into six-ounce jars (or larger portions into 5-pound tubs for wholesale clients). / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

75

With no previous background in cheesemaking, the

Although different in design and flavor, each cheese starts

biggest adjustment for the family has been perfecting the

with the same milk from the same cows, cared for by the

work and artistry involved in the craft. To learn the nuts

same family – a tradition the Hemmes hope will continue on

and bolts, the Hemmes hired St. Charles, Missouri-based

in their name.

Wine and Cheese Pairings Adam Puchta Winery in Hermann, Missouri, is just one of the local wineries that sells Hemme Brothers cheeses in its

cheese consultant Neville McNaughton. Known to many

tasting room. Here, winery owner Tim Puchta shares three

as “Dr. Cheese,” McNaughton taught them the ins and outs

“My family has never been perfect, but when you live in the

of operating a creamery, from the cheesemaking process

same community since 1848, you’ll find that your name is

to business planning and structure. Today, Nathan

everything,” David says. “My grandsons will be the eighth

manages the process alongside the creamery’s other

generation, and the way it looks, if given half an opportunity,

cheesemaker, Tony Gifford.

their future will be right here.”

This pairing highlights the spicy notes of Norton (Missouri’s

After the consultation, the brothers got busy designing a

16728 Arcadia Ave., Sweet Springs, Missouri,

like a juicy, pepper-encrusted steak with a glass of dry red wine.

building that could house the operation, and over a cold

hemmebrothers.com

local wine varietals to pair with the cheese. black pepper cheddar with norton

state grape), and Hemme’s black pepper Cheddar – think of it

Garlic-Dill Cheese Curds with Vidal

winter, built it themselves. It took about a year and a half

Blanc Sweeter wines made with Vidal Blanc make a

to really feel comfortable with the different production

Hemme Brothers’ cheese is available at several farmers’

processes, Nathan says, and he’s still learning. On

markets along the Interstate 70 corridor, including in Lenexa

cheesemaking days, which run Monday through Friday,

and Overland Park, Kansas, and Columbia, Missouri. You can

Nathan works 12-hour stretches. The processes are as

Sharp Cheddar with Chardonel

find the cheeses in retailers in St. Louis, Columbia, Branson and

different as the cheeses. Some, like mozzarella, are

or Chambourcin Hemme’s classic sharp Cheddar

Hermann, Missouri, plus at wineries and meat shops. Although

ready in 24 hours, others are smoked, and Brother’s

pairs well with a dry red or white wine; try it with Chambourcin,

Hemme Brothers doesn’t yet have its own retail shop, you can

Keeper, an aged Cheddar, rests in the facility's walk-in

a lighter red, or Chardonel, a hybrid white-wine varietal that

purchase the cheese in many locations around the state –

cooler for about 12 months.

has qualities similar to Chardonnay.

including Schnucks and Hy-Vee grocery stores.

refreshing pairing with Hemme's garlic-dill cheese curds.

The Hemmes reach back to their German heritage for product ideas, one being käsekuchen, a German cheesecake traditionally made with quark.

Käsekuchen

y

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c

e a m e

r

Filling and Assembly 3½ cups room-temperature quark cheese ½ cup room-temperature sour cream 1 cup granulated sugar 3 eggs 1 Tbsp light corn syrup 1½ tsp vanilla extract prebaked graham-cracker crust (recipe below)

FA

Crust 1½ cups crumbled graham crackers ¼ cup melted unsalted butter ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ tsp kosher salt

STE

AD

RM

serves 12

/ preparation – crust / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a mixing bowl, add all ingredients and whisk to combine. Press mixture into the bottom and sides of a springform pan. Bake for 8 minutes. Set aside. / preparation – filling and assembly / Preheat oven to 350°F. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add quark, sour cream and sugar and mix on low speed until combined. In a separate bowl, beat eggs. Add ¼ of eggs at a time to quark batter. Stir in corn syrup and vanilla extract.

Wrap the bottom of the springform pan with aluminum foil. Pour batter into prebaked graham-cracker crust. Carefully set springform pan inside a large cake pan or baking dish; add 1 inch of boiling water to bottom of large cake pan or baking dish to surround outside of springform pan. Bake for 90 minutes. Remove springform pan from large cake pan or baking dish. Let cool for at least 1 hour, then chill in refrigerator for about 6 hours. Serve plain or with fresh berries.

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Peel Brewing Co. is the proud beer sponsor for Battle of the Slices.

Peel Wood Fired Pizza started brewing 5 years ago in the O’Fallon Illinois location. Peel Brewing Co. beers are available at all three locations...

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Friday, September 13th 4 - 9 pm Saturday, September 14th 11- 9 pm Sunday, September 15th 11- 5 pm

Children’s Village & Art Shop for Kids Saturday, September 14th 11am - 4 pm Sunday, September 15th 11am - 4 pm

www.stcharlesmosaics.org

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Retired U.S. Army Ranger Patrick Montgomery and a crew of fellow veterans are raising Wagyu cattle to produce top-quality beef in Weston, Missouri

Cattle Man opher smith raphy by christ og ot Ph q g in il Flem Written by Apr

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O

n paper, Patrick Montgomery had no

Long before he began researching cattle breeds, though,

Yet Montgomery’s family, including his wife, Kaleigh, stood by him.

business starting a farm. In 2017, the year he established KC Cattle Co., the then-27-year-old former U.S. Army Ranger had recently returned from two tours in Afghanistan.

Montgomery was just another kid studying at Parkville South

When it came time to decide whether or not to re-enlist, Kaleigh

High School in Parkville, Missouri. After graduating in 2008, he

encouraged him to consider a future outside of the military. He

enlisted in the Army, and two years later, he earned a slot with the

chose to enroll at the University of Missouri under what’s most

elite First Ranger Battalion, 75th Ranger Regiment. He quickly

commonly known as the GI Bill; there, he studied animal science,

became a valued asset to his regiment, serving as team leader

and took courses in animal husbandry, chemistry, crop rotation

for a weapons squad and sniper in special ops. Then, on June 14,

and finance. He began to think about what he would do once he

2011, tragedy struck Montgomery’s family when Katzenberger

was finished, and his thoughts kept returning to running his own

was killed in a firefight while pursuing a high-value target in

farm, working with animals and being outside. He researched his

Afghanistan. Montgomery accompanied Katzenberger’s body

options, and wrote a business plan. KC Cattle Co. was born.

“The closest thing I had to farming experience was bucking hay in high school,” Montgomery says with a laugh.

But what Montgomery did have was a vision, coupled with unbridled optimism and a deep sense of purpose. He wanted to honor his family, including his sister Colleen’s husband, Staff Sergeant Jeremy Katzenberger, a fellow Army Ranger who was killed in combat while Montgomery was also actively deployed.

Today, Montgomery’s prime American Wagyu cattle, raised and cared for by his all-veteran staff, have been featured by The New York Times and on NBC’s Today show, and Montgomery has amassed a customer base across the country.

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back to his sister in Missouri.

Montgomery admits that he was naive about many things when “That definitely changed me for the rest of my life,” Montgomery

he started the business, but he knew from the beginning that this

says. “Trying to find your next step after something like that

was a difficult industry, and that he had to offer something unique

happens is difficult. But it was perhaps the biggest honor of

if KC Cattle Co. was to stand any chance of survival.

my life to be able to [bring him home].” Following the funeral, Montgomery returned to active duty in Afghanistan. He says,

“I wanted to do this full time, and it’s damn near impossible to

however, that darkness followed him for some time after

make a living doing this as a cow-calf operation,” he says. “[With

Katzenberger’s passing.

typical cattle], you have to be running a few thousand head to make it – a lot of guys around here have 200 head of cattle and

“I made some pretty big mistakes,” he says.

then have a full-time job on top of that.”

“When I started this up, I loved it – I loved the challenge of starting a business,” montgomery says. “It’s so pretty here, it’s tough to have a bad day. I just figured if I loved this, maybe other [veterans] would too.”

Montgomery knew that to achieve the profit margins he needed from a small operation, he had to sell directly to consumers. He also needed a very special product – and that’s where his American Wagyu cattle come in.

Montgomery bought lush, beautiful and hilly land just northwest of Kansas City in Weston, Missouri. The area is rich with stately homes with lavish views, but there are still many farms nearby, including the celebrated Green Dirt Farm, just a quarter of a mile down the road from KC Cattle Co. Montgomery says that he’s grateful for the support he’s received from his neighbors, who are happy to see a young farmer enter the industry. They offer him help and advice, including on how to deal with the weather, which for Montgomery’s two full seasons in business have alternated between droughts and flooding.

At any given time, Montgomery keeps about 50 to 60 head of cattle on his property. He keeps both American Wagyu – the only difference from Japanese Wagyu is geography – as well as hybrid (50 percent American Wagyu and 50 percent Angus).

In Japan, Wagyu beef is defined as cattle consisting of four distinct Japanese breeds: Japanese Black (Tajima-Gyu); Japanese Brown (Akiyushi); Japanese Polled and Japanese Shorthorn (the latter are not available outside of Japan).

The cows are prized for their abundant intramuscular fat, which has a lower melting point and imparts a buttery, tender texture when cooked.

Most of the product he sells comes from the hybrid cattle,

And one of the hallmarks of KC Cattle Co. is the staff, which

Asked what is most meaningful about working for a veteran-owned

which is more affordable than 100 percent Wagyu beef, but

is solely made up of veterans, including two regular full-time

company, Martinez responds without hesitation. “I love the

still of a noticeably high quality. He sells product from the

workers and a rotating handful of crew members. Montgomery

camaraderie,” he says. “I lost that when I left the military, and that’s

full-blood cattle by request.

says that while this seems like a natural move for him now,

really the huge factor for me, to be around guys who understand the

Montgomery takes a lot of pride in how he raises his cattle.

he happened on hiring veterans

way you think about things,

almost by accident.

and to be around guys who

They live almost their entire lives on pasture, and their diet is

have the same work ethic.”

supplemented with grain when they mature. They never ingest

“When I started this up, I loved it

steroids, and Montgomery maintains a stress-free

– I loved the challenge of starting

Martinez also loves the

environment, which he says is critical to keeping his animals

a business,” he says. “It’s so pretty

beauty of the farm, and

happy – and happy animals make for great beef.

here, it’s tough to have a bad day.

says it’s beneficial for him

I just figured if I loved this, maybe

to be in this intentionally

other [veterans] would too.”

low-stress environment.

“A lot of it has to do with cortisol,” he explains, describing the hormone that spikes in mammals as a response to stress.

He notes that cattle can

“If you kind of think about it like a bodybuilder using heavy

Zeph Martinez, one of KC

sense stress in humans,

weights, they have a lot of cortisol running through their

Cattle Co.’s full-time employees,

and their behavior will

bodies [and too much can be bad for your health]. That muscle

reinforces that Montgomery’s

change when they sense

is going to be a lot tougher. It’s the same thing with cattle: If

instincts about hiring veterans

it. Martinez says when

they’re in a stressful environment where they sense they are

were spot-on. Martinez served in

he sees the cattle pick up

in danger, their cortisol levels go up and stay up. You get a

the Army from 2010 to 2015, about

on his stress, it helps him

tougher product.”

the same time as Montgomery.

modify his own behavior.

He was a 19D Cavalry Scout To maintain a low-stress environment, Montgomery and his

who performed battlefield

staff do not use cattle prods or lassos. They “bucket train” the

reconnaissance for his superiors.

cows so the animals associate humans with food, and want

Like Montgomery, Martinez served two tours overseas,

to be around their handlers. You can see this at the farm – the

including one in Iraq and one in Afghanistan. He

cattle gravitate toward Montgomery and his staff. The cows are

met Montgomery through a Kansas City-based organization

generally easygoing and pleasant. This creates a calm feedback

called War Horses for Veterans, which provides equine

PICTURED TOP: Patrick Montgomery ABOVE: Zeph Martinez

loop that, in turn, further relaxes Montgomery and his staff.

therapy for service members. The two instantly connected.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Wagyu cows at KC Cattle Co.

“It helps you hone in, and helps with being able to control yourself and control your emotions,” Martinez says.

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Breed Specific Ever wonder what sets apart an Angus steak from a Hereford? This cheat sheet has the answers.

osso bucco q at noah's cupboard

Black and Red Angus Black and red Angus cattle have origins in Aberdeen, Scotland, and are the most popular breed of cattle raised for beef in the U.S. They’re known for their easy temperament, large size and fat-marbling musculature.

Hereford Originally bred in England, Herefords are one of the most popular breeds used for meat production in the U.S. and Argentina.

Wagyu Japanese Wagyu simply refers to any cattle that is bred in Japan. Wagyu cattle consist of four Japanese breeds: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Polled and Japanese Shorthorn.

Wagyu is celebrated for high intramuscular fat, which results in very tender meat. Kobe beef is Wagyu beef from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle; to be considered Kobe, cattle must be raised in Japan’s Hyōgo Prefecture according to rules developed by the Kobe Beef Marketing and Distribution Promotion Association.

Most of KC Cattle Co.'s products

guests rave about. Some Wagyu

are sold directly to customers who

can be too fatty, but Pat's meat

purchase the company’s steaks,

has the perfect ratio.”

briskets, roasts, burgers and even summer sausage from its

On the Noah’s Cupboard menu,

website. (Products are processed

you can find osso bucco and short

at Paradise Locker Meats in

ribs made with KC Cattle Co. beef

Trimble, Missouri.) A handful of

served with organic polenta and

local restaurants serve KC Cattle

roasted local carrots. Down the

Co. products, including Noah’s

road at Tin Kitchen, owner Sean

Cupboard and Tin Kitchen, both

O’Malley uses KC Cattle Co. ground

in Weston. Montgomery supplies

beef in his burgers.

relatively few restaurants, favoring building a few very strong

Late last year, the Montgomerys

relationships with chefs rather

welcomed a son, Jeremy, named

than trying to sell in bulk.

in honor of Montgomery’s late brother-in-law. Montgomery plans

Andrea Martinkovic, who co-owns

to continue hiring veterans, and

Noah’s Cupboard alongside her

wants to continue to learn and

husband, chef Nick Martinkovic,

grow his business. He hopes that

is effusive in her praise of KC

someday he might be able to pass

Cattle Co. and its products. “All of

KC Cattle Co. down to his son. In the

Pat’s beef tastes great – there’s a

meantime, he encourages home

noticeable difference in the way KC Cattle Co.’s beef tastes, cooks

cooks far and wide to consider supporting small, pasture-raised

and stands out in the dishes we use this product in. We also chose

farms like his.

it for the company’s ethics, what they stand for, how they help veterans, and that it’s hyper-local to Weston.”

“With us, you get that farm-to-table experience, and we work with people who have the same ethics we do,” Montgomery says.

"The meat is delicious,” Nick adds. “It has the right amount of

“You don’t have to worry about your sourcing. I think we just want

marbling and fat, which lends to the delicious beefy flavor our

people to know that we’re right here.”

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Charolais This large breed with origins in the Burgundy region of France is used for meat production and is often crossed with Angus and Hereford cattle to produce cattle that grow quickly (a Charolais trait). The beef is prized for its flavor.

Gelbvieh This breed has origins in Bavaria and is known for its red-yellow coat and rapid growth.

Limousin Limousin cattle are a highly muscled breed with a low birth weight that are often cross-bred with Angus and Hereford cows for meat production.

Simmental Raised for both milk and meat production, Simmental cattle were originally bred in Switzerland and feature patchy red and white or black coats.

Shorthorn Shorthorn cattle originated in northeast England and are prolific breeders that produce high-quality meat with high-fat marbling.

Holstein Known as the highest production dairy animals in the world, Holstein are black and white cattle that are used almost exclusively for dairy production in the U.S., although they’re used for both dairy and meat production in parts of Europe. noah's cupboard Photography by alistair tutton

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Like pineapples and mangoes, pears are sweet and juicy. But unlike pineapples andmangoes,theyarelowontheglycemic index—an important distinction. “The glycemic index is a relative ranking of carbs and how they affect glucose

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BOSC Beautiful Bosc pears look like they belong in still-life paintings, with their slender, tapering necks and bronze skin. Their complex flavor is as intriguing as their shape: sweet but with spicy undertones. These tend to be firmer than other pear varieties, so they are superb for poaching or baking.

D’ANJOU These all-purpose pears have a firm texture, a mild taste and hold up well when baked. Unlike other kinds of pears, D’Anjous don’t change color as they ripen. They start as a matte green or red and stay that way. To check for ripeness, press gently near the stem — it should give just a bit. At around 100 calories apiece, D’Anjous are perfect as an on-the-go snack, and they’re a fine source of fiber.

SECKEL

water and scrub with vegetable brush. Cut pears in half lengthwise. Remove stems. Using a spoon or

If a pear is found canned or juiced or pureed on supermarket shelves in the US, there’s a good chance it’s a Bartlett. These can be a sunny yellow or a rosy red, and they have a buttery sweet flavor. Bartletts are prone to bruising and can turn mealy soon after they’re ripe, so don’t wait to enjoy them — they are in peak season right now.

Small enough that a few can fit in the palm of your hand, Seckel pears are so sweet they’re sometimes called candy pears or sugar pears. Their harvest begins next month, so be on the lookout for these wee fruits: They’re olive green in color and often punctuated with a flush of red. Seckels are at their best when eaten raw.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY ISTOCK IMAGES

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Since 1927, Wenneman Meat Co. in St. Libory, Illinois, has been sourcing, slaughtering, butchering and selling some of the best beef and pork in the Midwest.

Written by Liz Miller Photography by jennifer silverberg

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Wenneman Meat Co. isn’t your ordinary butcher shop – or slaughterhouse, processing facility or smokehouse, for that matter. That’s because, for the past 92 years, three generations of the same family have been doing it all under one roof.

Even if you’re not familiar with Wenneman’s history, when you step inside the retail shop in small-town St. Libory, Illinois, you’ll immediately know you’re somewhere special.

On a balmy Tuesday morning in June, the shop is abuzz with business: an elderly couple hail a familiar face from behind the meat counter to stock up on freshly sliced deli meat, ground chuck and steaks for the week, while a father and his two young sons stand nearby, eyeing the burger patty selection. Co-owner Brad Schmitz emerges onto the floor from the back office and makes a beeline for the meat counter. He says hello to customers on the way, smiling before conferring with an associate. Many customers know Schmitz and his business partner, Paul Otten, by name; the two men have been stewarding the multi-generational company since 2004.

“If one of us walked into [a large grocery-store chain], if the owner was walking through the store, you wouldn’t know; you’d have no clue,” Otten say. “Whereas, when we walk through the retail store, there are constantly people coming up – they know us, and we know them on a first-name basis.

It’s a unique thing to be that connected with the customers.”

Over the past 15 years, Schmitz, Otten and their team have grown the business at an incredible rate, even despite a sizable setback in January 2011. That month, the Wenneman building – which had been in operation at that location since 1970 – burned to the ground. Business was dormant for almost 10 months as a new facility – one twice the size of the previous location – was constructed. Despite losing almost a year of profit, it didn’t take Wenneman long to bounce back.

“We built this twice the size of what our previous building was, figuring that we’d have a good 10 years of growth before we’d have to think about doing anything,” Schmitz says. “We were three years into that and we’d already put an addition on, and we’re at that point again now; we’ve needed several more additions on this building for a couple of years.”

Schmitz credits the surge in business to two factors: First, Wenneman has invested in educated and passionate marketing and sales teams. The second?

“I think things have changed – years ago, it wasn’t as important to chefs and consumers to know where their meat was coming from, and now it is,” Schmitz says. “Another difference with our people is that it’s full service and hands on, as opposed to pushing your cart down the aisle and taking what’s sitting there.”

That specialized approach and unwavering focus on quality is what has sustained Wenneman for almost a century – and what Schmitz and Otten hope will continue to grow it for another.

Brad Schmitz (pictured above); Paul Otten (pictured below) Long before Schmitz and Otten were born, Wenneman was a neighborhood destination in St. Libory. Schmitz’s great-grandfather John Wenneman bought the business from George Wessel in 1927. At that time in America, small processing facilities and butcher shops like Wenneman were still common, although that was changing – and had been for decades.

Prior to the Civil War, there wasn’t a formal meatpacking industry in the U.S.; farmers mostly slaughtered livestock and sold it directly to butcher shops for consumers. Between 1865 and 1873, U.S. Army contracts offered during wartime created opportunity for larger, more centralized processing facilities, especially in historic cattle stockyard towns like Kansas City and Chicago. This, in conjunction with the growth of ice-cooled railroad cars, made it possible to expand the size and production scale of processing plants.

By the early 1900s, large meatpacking plants were thriving, yet without any kind of federal or state regulation or oversight. That changed in 1906, when Upton Sinclair’s landmark novel about industrial meatpacking facilities, The Jungle, was published. To research the book, Sinclair went undercover at a Chicago meatpacking plant for seven weeks, observing myriad unsafe and unsanitary conditions and documenting the poor labor conditions for workers.

When the novel was released, it caused a public panic; the resulting outcry helped lead to the passage of the 1906

Pure Food and Drug Act and the Federal Meat Inspection Act as well as unions for laborers. Although these laws helped regulate standards in facilities nationwide, they hurt the bottom line for many mom-and-pops, which struggled to implement the necessary quality controls.

Over the next century, small processors like John Wenneman slowly exited the industry. By the late 1990s, four companies dominated 80 percent of beef production in the U.S.: Tyson Foods, Cargill Meat Solutions Corp., JBS USA and National Beef Packing Co., according to High Country News, a nonprofit news organization. Schmitz and Otten remember seeing a big shift in public perception and buying power in the ‘90s, though – one they credit to a specific public health concern related to beef processing.

“I think that all kicked off with Mad Cow in the ‘90s – I remember putting up a sign here that said, ‘Our cows aren’t mad!’” Schmitz says with a laugh. Although Schmitz and Otten didn’t buy the business from Schmitz’s uncles, Jim and Bob Wenneman, until 2004, they were both employed at the plant in the 1990s.

“That’s the biggest thing with consumers – the different recalls on E.coli, salmonella, etc., that have gone public in the past 15 to 20 years,” Otten says. “Forty years ago you didn’t hear of an E.coli recall. They didn’t test, didn’t know anything about it.

The vast majority of these recalls are coming from the big packing plants – the big exposure guys. People hear that in the news, have educated themselves and are now coming back to, ‘I want to know where it’s coming from.’” / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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At Wenneman, that starts with where – and more importantly, how – cattle and hogs are raised. The majority of the cattle slaughtered at the facility are raised just 15 minutes away in Okawville, Illinois, on Otten’s own farm. There, he raises 150 Angus cattle. In the past two decades, Otten’s farm has grown from a hobby to a full-fledged business.

“The calves stay with their mamas and graze on grass, and once they get older, they’ll naturally be taken away from their moms and then they’ll go be corn-fed the rest of the way,” Otten says. “They’re typically weaned right around seven months, so they’re about 200 to 220 days old. You can wean calves as early as four to six weeks, because at that point they can eat and digest regular feed, but I believe they grow better, have better health, at seven months. They still get nutrients and vitamins from their mother’s milk, kind of like with a human being.”

Otten believes that raising his cattle on pasture and allowing them to roam and graze yields high-quality beef, as the animals are also working their muscles. “We’re going after marbling, we’re going after rib eye size to give our customers the best possible cut that we can,” Otten says.

If you’ve never toured a processing plant before, it can be an overwhelming experience – even at comparatively small operations like Wenneman. To the unfamiliar, the labyrinth of rooms can feel like navigating a maze, but to the experts at Wenneman, who move between different stations, rooms and specialized training from day to day, it’s not that complicated.

A proper tour – which Wenneman regularly gives to chefs, culinary-school classes and clients – begins in the holding pens. Here, cattle are transferred from trailers (mostly from Otten’s farm) into stalls; within just one hour, six cattle will be slaughtered. The facility usually processes 55 cows a day, two-and-a-half days a week. (By comparison, industrial slaughterhouses in the U.S. can process between 300 and 400 cattle an hour, according to reporting

by Frontline.) Cows and hogs are stunned before entering the slaughtering room; depending on which animal is being processed at the moment, the next steps diverge. Cows – weighing between 1,250 to 1,400 pounds – are hoisted into the air on large hooks, stuck and bled dry. From there, they’re skinned, their intestines are removed and inspected by a state-licensed and employed inspector, and the meat is trimmed and washed. The whole process takes about 20 minutes, with two to three workers at each station.

“Everybody has a different job,” Otten says. “They all know what they’re doing and they don’t get in each other’s way. It takes a lot of practice and time for these guys to get good at what they do.”

The precision and speed required to do this work safely and accurately means that Wenneman employees have to gradually graduate from one station to the next. “There’s no way that anyone can… First off, just using a knife, you can’t step in and just do it,” Otten says. “It’s a process. You don’t just walk in and have it in two weeks.”

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Where’s the Beef?

A breakdown of popular beef cuts – known as primals – as well as lesser known off cuts, all sold at Wenneman Primal cuts In total there are nine primal cuts of beef – chuck, rib, short loin, sirloin (including tenderloin, top sirloin and bottom sirloin), round, brisket, shank, plate and flank. “You can break it into the basic primals, where you have bone-in rib steaks, T-bones, or you can get into where you have flat irons, petite tenderloins and filets – it’s all just what your market is and what your use is,” Otten says. “We do all of it, it just depends what customer we’re cutting for. [Chefs usually] want everything boned out; boneless pieces they can handle at a restaurant. Whereas a consumer usually wants bone-in steaks, roasts, basic things that are easy to cook.

And they want the bone for the flavor.”

Once a carcass has been washed and trimmed, it moves to the cooler room to be chilled. Hanging from hooks, sides of whole cows – minus the heads – will chill and then go to the drying cooler for around 10 days. The next step is butchering, where beef is either broken down based on custom or wholesale orders or into classic primal cuts for retail sale. Otten says six or seven butchers working at once can break down about 1,200 pounds of beef in an hour.

Off cuts Everything denoted in black above constitutes off cuts, including the cow’s head, oxtail and hooves. “Beef heads are the most popular,” Schmitz says. Otten adds that chefs and home cooks like to experiment with beef cheek and tongue.

Offal – organ meat like sweetbreads, the thymus gland – is also increasing in popularity. “Chefs are using them more,” Otten says. “We used to never save sweetbreads; now, we save everything we can get.” Wenneman has also had more demand for beef liver and heart recently.

When butchers are breaking down beef for retail sale, they focus on the nine primal cuts: chuck, rib, short loin, sirloin (including tenderloin, top sirloin and bottom sirloin), round, brisket, shank, plate and flank. Wenneman prides itself on selling bone-in products, something that Schmitz has seen decrease in availability elsewhere in recent years.

“Our process is a little different from what you’re going to find in other stores and markets,” Schmitz says. “At a lot of places that don’t process their own meat, I’ve found that the only cut that has a bone in it is a T-bone; the rest of the meat is boneless. You can come here and still get a bone-in chuck roast, bone-in arm roast, bone-in round steak. A consumer usually wants bone-in steaks, roasts, basic things that are easy to cook, and they want the bone for flavor.”

Outside of the retail shop in St. Libory, Wenneman products are sold at Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering in Kirkwood, Missouri; Godfrey Meat Market in Godfrey, Illinois; Oakville Butcher Block in Oakville, Missouri; C&C Butcher in Ellisville, Missouri; Olive Supermarket in University City, Missouri; and G&W Sausages and Fields Foods in St. Louis. Wenneman meats are also used in some of the best restaurants and smokehouses in the St. Louis area, including Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse & Bourbon Bar, 5 Star Burgers, Sugarfire Smoke House and Salt + Smoke.

At Salt + Smoke, executive chef Haley Riley uses Wenneman pork belly, which is cured and smoked in-house for bacon.

The facility also produces from-scratch bologna, made with a combination of pork butt and beef, for the restaurant. Riley says Salt + Smoke has been sourcing its pork belly from Wenneman since opening in 2014 and buying in the bologna for about two or three years.

“We were making all of our bologna in-house, which is a really long, painstaking process, and so we gave [Wenneman] the recipe, and now they’re processing that for us, which is really nice,” Riley says. “They have such a great facility, and they have the capacity and capability of handling larger production. Wenneman does a really good job of pricing things fairly, and they’re honestly some of the best people to work with – special orders, pretty much any kind of cut you’ve ever been interested in getting... They’re well-versed in all of them. And it’s nice to keep business close to home.”

˝ They have such a great facility, and they have the capacity and capability of handling larger production. Wenneman does a really good job of pricing things fairly, and they’re honestly some of the best people to work with ¯ special orders, pretty much any kind of cut you’ve ever been interested in getting... they’re well versed in all of them. And it’s nice to keep business close to home.˝ -Haley riley, executive chef, salt + smoke

At Sugarfire Smoke House, pitmaster Zach Dingman and his team at the Olivette location source Wenneman whole hogs and pork steaks, as well as beef ribs when they’re available.

“They’ve got really tremendous beef ribs; they’re big, meaty, probably weigh about 3 pounds per slab,” Dingman says. “I’d never actually had the chance to cook whole slabs of them until we started getting them from Wenneman – before we’d always get little three-bone sections. The whole slabs from Wenneman are really fun to play with, and they’re not super common in the Midwest. There’s a good amount of fat on the backbone and there’s good marbling on the meat – the fat is nicely distributed so that they stay juicy – and there’s a good yield. Anything you cook with a bone in it, you have to worry about the weight you buy versus the actual weight of meat you have to sell, and they’re pretty ideal from that perspective.” / s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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Riley, Dingman and other chefs and pitmasters also appreciate the freshness of Wenneman’s products. If you stop in Wenneman’s retail shop today, the beef in the case is roughly 11 days old from slaughtering to chilling to aging to butchering. If beef is destined to be mixed into sausages, it’s ground and moved to the sausagemaking room; if it’s being smoked, it heads to the smokers.

Walking through the plant from room to room, you immediately notice the distinct changes in smell: The holding pens are earthy like a barnyard, the slaughtering floor more chemical, the smokers, naturally, emit a pleasing barbecue aroma. This is all second nature for Wenneman employees, though – no matter the sights, sounds or smells, they work diligently and unfazed. Many of the company’s 50-plus staffers have been with Wenneman for more than a decade.

“Probably our longest tenured person right now is getting close to 18 or 19 years,” Otten says. “We had a gentleman retire a few weeks ago who had been with us for 24 or 25 years. And the year before that we had a man retire who was with us for almost 50 years.”

Chatting with workers behind the meat case, you understand a little bit of what keeps them here year after year: They take pride in the products they produce. It’s also a pride in working for a local institution and building relationships with customers over not just years but decades. That same pride is apparent in Schmitz and Otten, who not only love the work, but never forget the legacy they’re contributing to at Wenneman.

“It’s been important to me to continue to build on what the first and second generation started, and really take this business to a whole new level and be successful in doing so,” Schmitz says. “Especially in a time when the meat industry continues to get tougher and tougher to work in – from regulations to large corporate takeovers and price restraints – we’ve been able to not only survive, but thrive. We’ve continued to expand and grow, and we can continue to down the road.”

7415 State Route 15, St. Libory, Illinois, wenneman.com

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Back Burner the

this month, we asked industry pros:

Do you have a secret weapon spice, ingredient or cooking technique?

Brandon Vair

chef-owner Meriwether Café & Bike Shop Rocheport, Missouri

PHOTO BY JEnnifer silverberg

“I ask: Will it pickle? Or what does this taste like pickled? These are questions asked either by myself or one of our team members in reference to just about everything edible. We use pickling to add zest to salads or crunch to sandwiches; we use the vinegar to offset the fattiness or richness of proteins, and we use it to preserve the fresh produce that is in such abundance in the summer so we can bring it back out for the fall or winter to remind of us of the past season.”

Carlos Mortera chef-owner

Lauren Brown owner

Shelly La Fata festival manager

Nick Vella chef de cuisine

Dillon Witte sous chef

The Bite and Poi-Ō

Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co.

The Savoy at 21c

Farmhaus

Kansas City

Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café

& chef-owner

st. Louis

Springfield, Missouri

Pasta La Fata

Kansas City

“Usually I do a lot of fish sauce.

“It's not necessarily a secret, but

“My [chef’s] knife. Without my

Fish sauce, lime and chiles in

“Our secret weapon is our

Columbia, Missouri

just using dashi [a Japanese stock

knife, I wouldn’t be able to break

something spicy are things I

excellent team of bakers.

“I don’t think I have a secret

base made with dried kombu and

down half a hog, cut vegetables

always use. And vinegar – those

They’re really passionate and

weapon, just simple ingredients.

bonito flakes]. That’s one thing

or prep throughout the day. It’s

are my four go-to things that I like

hardworking. Something else

And time. Great food takes

I learned [working] at a ramen

very important to keep your knife

to use in all of my dishes.”

that sets us apart is the fact that

time. I’m a naturally distracted

restaurant: It [can] fortify any

sharp. I’ve been to some of my

we mill our own grains on-site. We

person and a total adrenaline

sauce. It’s kind of unnoticed, but

friends’ houses and used their

buy wheat berries, spelt and rye

junkie, [so] patience and focus are

it can add a lot of complexity

knives, and it looks like they tried

berries and mill them ourselves

ingredients I’ve had to cultivate,

and turn say, two ingredients

to use it to chop open a tin can.

and put that directly into our

and I believe they’re my most

together that are 2 + 2 = 4, and

You definitely need a sharp knife;

bread. Freshly milled flour makes

important tools.”

you add dashi and it becomes a 9.”

a dull knife is more dangerous

a really big difference.”

than a sharp knife. You have to have clean cuts.”

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 1 9

fa i t h f u l t o t h e c r a f t

LOCAL GRAIN. WORLD-CLASS SPIRITS. MILLED & DISTILLED WITH PURPOSE IN KANSAS CITY'S CROSSROADS.

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 019

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