August 2012 FEAST Magazine

cucumber-mint gazpacho

stringbean coffee

made in st. louis

SUMMER SOUP

BUZZ-WORTHY BEANS

LOCAL style

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | AUGUST 2012 | FREE

OUr readers’ 50 food faves!

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

5

5

Our Readers’ 50 Food Faves

Our anniversary issue celebrates the dishes, restaurants, people, shops and experiences that make this a great food town. The ideas in this issue, which are wholly provided by our readers, are your guide to eating and drinking well in St. Louis. Tuck this issue under your arm and head out to meet a new bartender, try a new dish, explore a new neighborhood or revisit our city’s classic culinary charms.

Table of contents photography of SKILLET ROASTED PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND MUSSELS at harvest BY

Jennifer Silverberg

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AUGUST 2012

42

AUGUST 2012 | 36 | TECH SCHOOL

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

Take on tempura with chef Cassy’s master recipe.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Our love letter to St. Louis.

| 38 |

how to

Are you making the cut?

Master basic knife skills.

| 16 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

| 40 | EASY EATS

COLUMNS

| 82 | The dish

| 28 |

my stuff

Chef Cary McDowell blends his Southern heritage with French culinary traditions.

| 31 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five ravioli makers to the test.

Cool down with cucumbermint gazpacho.

Contributor Mike Sweeney shares valuable advice for indulging in his favorite sweet treat.

| 32 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 34 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: Hatch chiles.

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

7

Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 8 | August 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter Michael Sweeney, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazineâ&#x201E;˘.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

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AUGUST 2012

Lindenwood University’s

J. Scheidegger Center for the Arts

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ONLINE CONTENT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES MORE FEAST 50: We’re keeping the spirit of this issue

Recipes

ENTER TO WIN! There’s so much to see and do in St. Louis, especially in the summer. In partnership with the St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission, our August giveaway lets you be a tourist in your hometown with an overnight stay at the Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark, $100 gift card to Mike Shannon’s Steaks & Seafood, tickets to a Cardinals game, City Museum passes and more. Keep an eye on our Facebook page (facebook.com/feaststl) for details.

alive all month long at feastSTL.com, starting with a behind-the-scenes look at Volpi (pictured), a century-old St. Louis institution known worldwide for its hand-crafted, dry-cured Italian meat products. Plus, we’ll bring you treasured family recipes from our city’s movers and shakers, and our weekly columnists will delve deeper into our readers’ favorite dishes and restaurants. Photography by J. Pollack Photography

JOIN US IN THE KITCHEN: Home Wine Kitchen chef Cassy Vires deconstructs tempura frying in this month’s Tech School demo. (Get the recipe on p. 36.)

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/feastSTL Scan this tag to LIKE us

twitter.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us

ONLINE FEATURES HARVEST TIME: This year’s growing season has Mount Pleasant

Estates kicking off harvest earlier than ever before. We head to the vineyards for a firsthand look at the harvest of Rayon d’Or grapes, which produce the winery’s top-selling sparkling wine, Brut Imperial. Photo courtesy of Mount Pleasant

pinterest.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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Inspired Food Culture

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

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FEAST EVENTS

St. Louis Craft Beer Week

his is our love letter to St. Louis.

To compile the Feast 50, we asked you, our readers, to tell us what’s so great about St. Louis food. We received a huge number of responses, and as we combed through each one, I found myself excited to explore our region through the eyes – and the palates – of our readership.

Some old-school spots have been newly added to my must-go list. Joints like Failoni’s Café, the place McGraw Milhaven goes for Rosemary Failoni’s marinated green olives and Tom Kelley’s song stylings.

Or The Venice Café, where art and Jamaican food intermingle in Benton Park. And Steve Gontram reminded me that Cravings’ Tim Brennan, who has won two – yes, two – James Beard Awards for his classic sweets, bakes perfection every day in Webster Groves.

But there was one overarching theme to many of the responses: St. Louis is a city of collaboration. “I wish everyone … knew the deep level of support and friendship that runs through the restaurants in this city,” wrote Eric Scholle, and you’ll find evidence of that throughout this issue. Mike Schrand puts it best, I think, in saying: “I feel sorry for anyone who thinks there’s not enough going on in St. Louis from a culinary standpoint. They’re sadly mistaken.” Cheers to that.

Until next time,

Sat., July 28 to Sun., Aug. 5 stlbeerweek.com

Each event will provide an opportunity to talk to brewers, pair food and beer, advocate local beer, and meet other beer enthusiasts.

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Aug. 4, 12:30pm Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

This program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

L’Ecole Academy Class Tue., Aug. 7, 6pm $45 per person, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Learn to temper chocolate and create a diverse assortment of bonbons and crèmes.

Wine Tasting Thu., Aug. 16, 6 to 7pm; Mosaic in Des Peres RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Mosaic in Des Peres.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Aug. 22, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Make the cucumber-mint gazpacho on p. 40.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Tue., Aug 28, 6pm; Local Harvest Cafe RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss Missouri Harvest by Maddie Earnest and Liz Fathman. The authors will be on hand to discuss how they work with Missouri farmers and purveyors to make locally grown food accessible to the public through the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe.

Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

2012 LouFest Sat., Aug. 25 and Sun., Aug. 26; Forest Park loufest.com

Catherine Neville

This two-day festival features national and local bands, great food in the Feastsponsored Nosh Pit, cool retail, and a proactive greening effort.

Art of Food Sat., Sept. 22, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 12

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AUGUST 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Art of Food serves up delectable hors d’oeuvres using as many fresh, local ingredients as possible, all prepared in the Slow Food tradition by St. Louis’ favorite “slow” chefs.

Jonathan Gayman

Tickets begin at $30, kelly@slowfoodstl.org

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Whether you run a casual, cozy diner or an elegant, 5-star restaurant, you want to give your guests a clean, appealing environment that reflects the quality and care you put into your outstanding service and carefully crafted menu.

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Southwest Diner 314.260.7244

Southwest Diner, which began as a breakfast-taco hot spot at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, recently opened a brick-and-mortar eatery. Southwest Diner specializes in exactly what the name implies: diner fare with a Southwest accent. Red and green chile sauces flavor enchiladas; red, with a slight bitterness and a good amount of heat, is our favorite. The Green Chile Cheese Burger is another must-have. It’s spicy and satisfying, especially when served with a gooey order of chile cheese fries. This is a diner, after all, so egg dishes abound, along with buttermilk cornmeal pancakes and malted waffles. For a Southwest take on St. Louis fare, order the Southwest Slinger, which is covered with chile sauce and cheese. For something lighter, Wedge Salad brings a hunk of blue cheese-drizzled iceberg lettuce topped with bacon, tomato, shaved red onion and a blue cheese fritter. The laid-back, midcentury atmosphere feels very of-the-moment, as does the diner’s filling, well-made fare. – C.N. 6803 Southwest Ave., Ellendale southwestdinerstl.com

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PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

a spicy take on diner fare

Ellendale

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Spanish Cava written by Jennifer Johnson

It’s August. It’s hot. You’re hosting a barbecue, and serving big-bodied reds doesn’t sound remotely appealing. Consider sparkling cavas from Spain, as these wines will impress in their refreshment and effortlessly complement your summer menu. Relatively affordable, Spanish cavas are produced in cooler northern areas, such as Catalonia, Navarra and Rioja, using the painstaking traditional méthode champenoise from France’s Champagne region to yield fine bubbles and nuanced aromatics. The traditional Spanish grapes Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada make up the cava blend, exhibiting their respective vineyard hardiness, earthy aromas and light-bodied nature. You may, however, find Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other mainstream varieties used as well.

Montsarra Cava Brut, N.V.

Penedes, Spain

Brioche toast and subtle green apple aromas introduce lively, relatively refined bubbles. White peach aromas and a slim, chalklike minerality align nicely with the high-acid profile on the palate.

Pair with grilled salmon tacos, spicy chipotle grilled chicken and veggie kabobs with saffron butter. $14.99; Vincent’s 12th Street Market, 2400 S. 12th St., Soulard, vincentsmarket.biz

Castillo Perelada Cava Brut Rosado, N.V.

Catalonia, Spain

Pinot Noir is a prominent grape of this fuller-bodied cava rosé. A light-ruby hue sets the stage for strawberries and citrus peel, steely notes and a hint of violets. It’s an excellent match with Southern fried chicken, brown sugar-and-bourbon ribs, and lamb and shrimp kabobs. $11.99; The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

pub grub goes posh

Necessity is the mother of invention, or so the saying goes, and great eats can certainly enter the realm of “necessary” when you’re bellied to the bar. 4 Hands Brewing Co. is well-known for frequently hosting food trucks, with hungry patrons of the LaSalle Park brewery lining up on Eighth Street for an array of eclectic fare. But owner Kevin Lemp wanted to offer his patrons food on a steadier basis. Enter David Bailey and The Fifth Wheel. Known for his creative approach to local restaurants, Bailey crafted a menu of

sophisticated bar food for this new outpost. Choose from updated, beer-friendly favorites like wings with a peachhabanero sauce. Chips are given a dip in rarebit that’s spiked with Reprise Centennial Red. You can munch on nachos piled with smoked-tomato chutney, Cheddar, jalapeños, pico and sour cream. There are a number of sandwiches to choose from as well. We like the Spicy BLT topped with a fried egg or the Veg with smoked onions, criminis, roasted tomato, bell peppers, Swiss cheese and zucchini with lemon

mayo. And fans of pâté will want to order the charcuterie platter with chicken-liver mousse, poached cherries and summer sausage. The bamboo utensils are a great ecofriendly touch that feels modern and casual, just like the inspired pairing of 4 Hands and The Fifth Wheel. – C.N. 1220 S. Eighth Street, LaSalle Park baileysrestaurants.com 4handsbrewery.com

The Fifth Wheel

at 4 Hands Brewing Co. 314.436.1559

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

LaSalle Park

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

SWEET LOCAL SCOOPS Local shops are churning out tasty frozen treats that satisfy summer cravings. Keep cool with a few of our favorite flavors. – B.W.

i scream cakes’ Blueberry Cheesecake

serendipity’s Bordeaux Cherry

gelato di riso’s Bacio (Chocolate Hazelnut)

| 1 | $7.99 per pint; I Scream Cakes, 2641 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, iscreamcakes.com | 2 | $6.49 per quart; Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream, 8130 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, serendipity-icecream.com | 3 | $7.75 per pint; Gelato Di Riso, 5204 Wilson Ave., The Hill, gelatodiriso.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

good to the last drop Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

The Corpse Reviver No. 2 is my all-time favorite. It has a tartness that leaves the palate wanting another sip, and its seductive nature will have you ordering your third round before you know it. Or as Harry Craddock, famous cocktail barman and inventor of the drink, stated, “Four taken in swift succession will unrevive the corpse again.”

First seeing print in a London book entitled Drinks of All Kinds in 1895, corpse revivers were considered a class of drinks rather than individual concoctions. They were the original “hair of the dog,” meant to get you going the morning after a long night of drinking.

Laura Ann Miller

All the components of this drink except the absinthe are poured in equal proportions. The original recipe calls for three drops – as opposed to a dash – of the green stuff.

Experimenting with these two measurements is an eyeopening experience. A dash adds too much anise flavor and overpowers the rest of the ingredients. The aroma is predominantly absinthe, as is the finish; however, if you stick to the original recipe and use drops, it’s a very balanced cocktail. The orange from the Cointreau and floral notes of the Lillet shine in the aroma. Those flavors are given a touch of tartness from the lemon and the gin’s botanicals.

The combination dances across your palate in a wellorchestrated choreography that ends with just a hint of bitterness. It’s a perfectly balanced beauty that hits the spot any time of the year.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corpse Reviver No. 2 Serves | 1 |

fresh is best Fresh fruit juice makes a world of difference in a drink, and there is nothing that can be manufactured to replicate its bright and mouthwatering flavor. Home bartenders have an advantage over the pros in that they can make drinks with juice squeezed just seconds before mixing. There have been a few experiments performed concerning oxidation rates of citrus juices, especially since the renaissance of cocktails. The rate at which the enzymes of the juice break down allows for a 36-hour window in which to use the juice. My advice for making outstanding cocktails at home, however, is to keep a hand-held juicer nearby and squeeze fresh juice each and every time you mix a drink.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

¾ oz

¾ oz

¾ oz

¾ oz 3 drops

gin* fresh lemon juice Cointreau Lillet Blanc St. George Absinthe Verte stemless cherry for garnish

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients except the cherry in a shaker. Add ice, shake for 15 seconds and fine-strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Drop the cherry in the glass and serve. *The type of gin you use is going to define this drink. For more floral and botanical notes, use North Shore Distiller’s Gin No. 6, Nolet’s or Bombay Sapphire. If you like more of the juniper flavors to shine through, try Tanqueray No. Ten or Broker’s London Dry. For a unique flavor not easily categorized, but still excellent, try Hendrick’s or St. George Botanivore.

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | Meet & greet

Peter Cohen

Owner, Stringbean Coffee Co.

written by Pat Eby

J. Pollack Photography

When Peter Cohen couldn’t find the coffee he craved, he decided to start roasting his own beans at home. “My first roast set off smoke alarms,” he says. “The dogs howled, but the experiment worked.” Soon after, he started Stringbean Coffee Co., through which he roasts and sells a variety of sustainable coffees. His coffees – which range from mellow roasts (Good Vibe Light Roast) to bold and full-bodied beans (Redeye Roast) – are sold through his website and at various locations around St. Louis, including Freddie’s Market and Local Harvest Grocery. He doesn’t limit sales to traditional grocers. His more unusual vendors include a gas station, a guitar shop and a feed store. “If there’s a coolness and a vibe to a place, I’ll sell there,” he says.

Photography by

check it out!

Feast extra

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Visit feastSTL.com for recipes using Stringbean Coffee.

You’ll find Cohen at farmers’ markets too. Look for him at the Washington University Medical Center market on Thursdays. Saturdays he alternates between the Clayton Farmer’s Market and the Lake Saint Louis Farmers and Artists Market. On most Sundays you’ll find him at the market at Chandler Hill Winery in Defiance, Mo. stringbeans.net

BIG FIELD CAFE

Annual Jour de Fete Celebration Aug. 11th and 12th

AND CATERING

Try some of the most unique fare in all of Ste. Genevieve!

Annual Events

you don't want to miss!

Wine Diva Weekend:

Jour de la Terre

Souper Wine Weekend:

April 20 and 21, 2013

November 17 and 18, 2012 January 19 and 20, 2013

Romancing the Grape:

Sun. - Wed. 11 am - 4 pm Thurs. 11 am - 8 pm Fri. - Sat. 11 am - 10 pm

(Earth Day):

Progressive Meal: May 18 and 19, 2013

February 9 and 10, 2013

www.rdvwinetrail.com

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10 South 3rd Street Sainte Genevieve, MO 63670

245 Merchant Street Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

1-800-398-1298

www.saintegenevievewinery.com

Jour de Fete

(573) 883-9600

Saturday, August 11 - 10am-6pm Sunday, August 12 - 9am-4am ARTS, CRAFTS, GIFTS & COLLECTIBLES! FOOD, DRINK AND ENTERTAINMENT!!

Lion's Club - Saturday Live Bands/Beer/Soda/Water Limited free parking in Historic District. Shuttle Bus Service available for nominal fee.

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AUGUST 2012

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Quench your thirst at a participating establishment and 20% or more of your beverage bill will benefit Pets Are Wonderful Support (PAWS), a program of Saint Louis Effort for AIDS. For a list of participating establishments, visit: w w w . s t l e f a . o r g

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| shop-o-matic PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

FEAST FAVES

Ford Hotel Supply

shop like a chef For over 100 years, family-owned Ford Hotel Supply has been in the business of outfitting restaurants with everything they need to run a business, including kitchen design. From heavy duty appliances and cookware in the kitchen to fine china and crystal glasses in the front of the house, Ford supplies everything but the food itself.

The spacious showroom north of Downtown offers room after room of professional-grade provisions in a variety of sizes, styles and capacities. “If you said today

that you want to open a restaurant tomorrow, we could actually deliver it,” says co-president Christy Schlafly.

But what does that mean to those of us who live to cook, but don’t cook for a living? Unlike some restaurant supply stores, Ford is open to the public and offers much of its inventory to the home cook at below-retail prices.

Small appliances, gadgets, cookware, serving pieces and entertaining needs are a steal at Ford. Dishes, silverware and glassware are sold in bulk, making this store a great

314.231.8400 North Riverfront resource for large families or those who host frequent parties and sizeable events.

While a stroll through their showroom is a delight for any enthusiastic cook or avid entertainer, be sure to keep an eye out for their complete online store coming this fall. – B.W. 2204 N. Broadway, North Riverfront fordstl.com

MUST-HAVES FOR home ENTERTAINING |1| |2| |3|

| 1 | “Fondue is coming back big time,” says Schlafly. “But we’ve traded the big clunky hardware for small tabletop fondue sets that bring energy to the table without dominating the conversation.” | 2 | “Water infusers are incredibly popular,” according to Schlafly. “Adding cucumber, mint or pineapple to these infusing pitchers is really refreshing, especially at outdoor parties.” | 3 | “I use my party tub all the time for displaying drinks,” says Schlafly. “And I’m glad wine stands are back in fashion. It’s a sophisticated way to allow your guests to serve themselves.”

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

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Open on Sundays too for Brunch or Dinner!

Turkish/Mediterranean food is a cross between Southern European, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines.

Aya Sofia Restaurant and Wine Bar offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees,including delectable lamb, beef, chicken, and fresh seafood.

Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine

Known for our meze (small plates) and excellent wine selection

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Comedy Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre "Mayhem in Mayberry" Welcome to the10th annual "Miss Mayberry" contest. Our own, Sheriff Andy Trailer, will judge the contestants on their beauty, poise, cookin' skills and a new category this year - hog callin'. But...when mayhem and murder strikes Mayberry, Deputy Blarney Fife and Aint Bee have to step-in to fill Sheriff Andy's shoes.

Join them in this interactive comedy murder mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Ask for a "starring" role or just sit back and guess "whodunit." Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN!

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person.

Valid thru August 2012. Not valid for groups.

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Meskerem Ethiopian Cuisine, a symbol of new beginnings.

Dine with us....excellent and authentic traditional Ethiopian cuisine.

We specialize in Vegetarian and Vegan Cuisine made from scratch daily. Ethiopian dishes are characterized by the variety of spices used in their preparation including our fresh selection of Lamb, Beef, Chicken and traditional spices.

Ask us about our private parties and catering services!

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AUGUST 2012

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Homegrown Design |1|

From stylish and sophisticated to fun and funky, these locally designed goods showcase the talents of area artists while adding some hometown charm to your personal style. – B.W.

|2|

|3|

|4|

|5|

| 1 | STL Style tote bags, $12.95 each; STL Style, 3159 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, stl-style.com | 2 | Wine stoppers, $49.43 each; Webster Wood Creations, etsy.com/shop/WebsterWoodCreations | 3 | Wells Table, $15,000, and Ambrosia Maple Coffee Table II, $4,500; Stine Woodworking, stinewoodworking.com | 4 | Wooden spoons and forks, $8 for pkg of 20; Sucre Shop, sucreshop.com | 5 | Kitchen Kulture t-shirts, $20 each; Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Tower Grove Park, tgmarket.org tote bag and t-shirt Photos by

Laura Ann Miller

wooden spoon & fork photos by J. Pollack Photography

Inspired Food Culture

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MY STUFF

Cary McDowell

Executive Chef, Winslow’s Home written by Catherine Neville

Winslow’s has its own farm – what do you get directly from Ann and Randy? I’d like to dispel the notion that we grow all of the stuff we use. I deal with like-minded farmers and producers, taking advantage of the best available items of the season. This season [Winslow’s is] letting the fields go fallow. I expect we’ll have an exciting planting plan for next year!

That brisket of yours is insane. Can you share the secret that makes it so craveable? I think the key to our brisket is the way we slow-cook it until it falls apart. Sometimes proper seasoning and patience is the key. We also reheat it in its cooking juices. Our brisket is a prime example of keeping it simple and following a consistent, timeless technique. What’s your favorite thing on the Winslow’s menu?

Right now I’m torn between the simplicity of our panzanella salad and our corned beef hash. We make the corned beef with the same raw brisket we [use] for the signature sandwich. We cure it, wait patiently, slow-cook it, cool it slowly and grind it. Served with two sunny-side-up eggs and toast, it’s hard to beat. I’m also excited about some of the new items we’re offering in our Grab and Go case, like our banana cake. When did you fall in love with food? It’s hard to say, but I think that cooking got profoundly more interesting to me when I realized cute girls paid attention. Who was most influential in your professional life? I’ve been awfully fond of a guy named Bruno Crosnier. He was a French chef who ran the kitchen for my first mentor, Christian Bertrand. He was the guy who actually started explaining why things worked the way they did and never held back on putting me into difficult situations. He showed me what it was like to be confident, not arrogant. It’s funny: In cooking, as well as music, often the most important ones are the “not famous.” Guilty (culinary) pleasure? Fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies; hot dogs at the ballpark; Culver’s triple cheeseburgers and cheese curds; Hardee’s sausage, egg and cheese biscuits … I have to stop now. Where are you when you’re not working? In my backyard with my hens. What do you wish people knew about the St. Louis culinary scene? How rich in talent and experience it is. It is so diverse now, more than I think folks realize.

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Winslow’s Home 7213 Delmar Blvd.

University City 314.725.7559 winslowshome.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Cary McDowell.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

Cary McDowell cooks like a French grandma.

“My Southern upbringing made me able to identify with the old-school French guys. ...

There are so many parallels between Southern heritage and French tradition as it relates to food.” At Winslow’s Home, this accomplished chef focuses on simple, timeless dishes and techniques. “We try to strike a balance of dishes based on the best seasonal proteins and veggies. Ann [Sheehan Lipton] and I always go back to the notion that the food we present should be recognizable to our grandmothers.”

Oma’sBarn HOME & GARDEN

Antiques • Flowers • Home Decor

OMA’S RUMMAGE SALE

Saturday, August th!

1.5 Miles North of I-70 on Hwy 79 Tue-Sat 10-5 • Sun 12-4 • 1057 Hwy 79, St. Peters, MO (636) 278-4445 • www.omasbarn.com • LisaHagemann

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ENCORE BATH & REMODELING, INC. 618-466-1100

Serving Greater St. Louis and The Metro East Since 1991

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feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2012

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

Ravioli

|3|

|4| |5|

|1|

Makers

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written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller

|1|

Square Ravioli Press with Rolling Pin

|2|

|3|

Ravioli Wooden Checkered Pin and Crimper

PROS

PROS

Hand-make 24 ravioli posthaste with this handsome tool. Once the pasta drapes over the form, it relaxes into the pre-formed squares. You see just where to add filling. Top with another pasta sheet and use a rolling pin to remove excess air, seal and cut the ravioli in two or three passes.

This tool is a good-looker, plus you’ll love how fast it works. Don’t blink.

Simply spread your filling between pasta sheets in a thin, continuous layer. A single pass will shape 50 to 60 ravioli. Not the newest technology, to be sure, but this old-style tool delivers small, thinner ravioli. You taste the pasta, then the filling. These dainty ravioli with their straight-edged sides look handsome on the plate too.

CONS

The small rolling pin looks cute, but it doesn’t deliver a good cut quickly. A regular-sized rolling pin works well.

Tender doughs stick to the plate, and some pieces needed a lift out, even with a release agent. $29.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

CONS

The pin works only with smoother fillings, such as herbed ricotta or lunga di Napoli squash. It’s awkwardly wide, plus you need a second tool – a knife or a pizza wheel – to cut the ravioli apart.

Spring Loaded Ravioli Stamp PROS

A little pricier than fixed stamps, but this spring-loaded tool sports a curved dome top, which shapes the filling and presses out the air in the ravioli as you stamp. The ravioli release quickly too. Unscrew the wooden handle from the aluminum base for easiest cleanup.

CONS

No negatives; just good-looking, plump ravioli. $15; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

|4|

|5|

Ravioli Stamp

Norpro Ravioli Maker with Press

PROS

These stamps ring up cheap and make child’s play of ravioli. Even the smallest stamp makes big, full ravioli.

No fillings escaped when test pastas cooked. Buy a few in different sizes, round and square both.

CONS

You need to press out the air around the filling by hand before you stamp, which is a bit cumbersome. $6.99 (circle, pictured) or $9.99 (square); J. Viviano and Sons, 5139 Shaw Ave., The Hill, shopviviano.com

$11.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

PROS

This maker delivers a great onetwo. Drape the pasta sheet over the aluminum plate and then lower the plastic dimpler into the holes. The elastic dough stretches to a nice concave shape; the best of the lot for chunky fillings. The zigzag edges sit high on the board to cut effectively, plus the individual ravioli seal right and tight.

CONS

Softer, thinner pasta sometimes sticks to the press, even after you roll the dough on a floured surface and flour the mold. Nonstick cooking spray works, but the residue stays on the ravioli. You need to store two pieces, so save the box. $15.49; DiGregorio’s Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, digregoriofoods.com

C h ec

ko pa g u t e

70!

W h at to l oo k for : Quantity: Ravioli makers create nearly perfect filled pasta pillows lickety-split, with minimal angst. Choosing the type of tool that best fits your needs requires some thought though. Stamps cut one raviolo at a time, just right for making small quantities.

Boards, presses and checkered pins create, cut and seal 10 to 40 smaller ravioli at one time.

Size: Checkered pins make small to medium ravioli, some no bigger than a postage stamp, and hold less filling per raviolo.

Boards and presses make plump ravioli in small, medium and larger sizes. Stamps come in varying sizes, including a showstoppingly big one at just under 3 inches across, round or square.

Shape: Round and square shapes predominate, but look for triangles, ovals, hearts, stars and more. The fun factor of a fishshaped ravioli rates high, but traditionalists may want to stick with squares. Odd shapes are more available online than in stores.

Degree of difficulty: Stamps seal and cut ravioli quickly with minimal fuss; very easy to use. Presses, which have holes, fill, cut and release with ease. Boards take a bit more practice and experimentation but work well. Hardest to master: the checkered pin.

Cleanup: Forget the dishwasher. All tools require hand washing in hot, soapy water immediately after use. Allow hours, maybe a day, for the wooden rolling pins to dry between ravioli sessions.

Pick your favorite press and stamp out tasty morsels to make into toasted ravioli. Or check out the Feast 50 for our readers’ favorite spots to get this St. Louis specialty!

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

31

ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

2nd Shift Brewing’s Hibiscus Wit STYLE: Belgian Wit (5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Baileys’ Range, 920 Olive St., Downtown, baileysrange.com; $7 (16-oz draught) PAIRINGS: Chicken salad sandwich • Range’s Morocco burger

Well-known for its distinctly delicious IPAs, 2nd Shift came out of left field when it introduced its take on a Belgianstyle wheat beer. Hibiscus flowers provide a slight amount of tartness and give this beer its distinctive pink hue.

While this is a year-round beer, it’s especially effective in beating back the oppressive August heat.

Nectar Ales’ Nectar IPA STYLE: American IPA (6.7% abv) AVAILABLE AT: 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Tacos al pastor • Manchego

I can never quite decide how I like my IPAs. I tell everyone I like them bone-dry, but then I come across something like Nectar IPA and it makes me question everything I thought I knew. This beer has a sultry sweetness that only seems to accentuate its fruity hop bitterness.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Partida Blanco Tequila Provenance: Jalisco, Mexico (40% abv) Available at: Arena Liquor, 1217 Hampton Ave., Dogtown, 314.645.6644; $46 Try it: Neat or with a squeeze of lime

Partida has long been one of my favorite tequilas.

Partida grows its agave plants on a single estate in dense volcanic soils or seven to 10 years before being harvested. These practices result in tequila with strong notes of pepper, tobacco, tropical fruits and minerality. The blanco is a smooth yet heavy silver tequila. Also try Partida’s reposado and añejo, which are aged in Jack Daniels whiskey barrels.

Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Provenance: Gardner, N.Y. (46% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $44.99 Try it: Over a few rocks or in your favorite Manhattan recipe

Tuthilltown Spirits is a New York micro-distillery specializing in aged and unaged whiskeys. Its bourbon is made with a delicious combination of corn, rye, wheat and malted barley. The grains and yeast used to produce this bottling are locally sourced, and the water used in the fermentation and distillation processes comes from local reservoirs. This smooth blended whiskey highlights the flavors of each grain but is dominated by the spice of the rye and the sweetness of the corn.

Bell’s Brewery’s Oarsman Ale

Dimmi

STYLE: Berliner Weissbier (4% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Sauerkraut • Emmentaler

Provenance: Lombardi, Italy (35% abv) Available at: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $36 Try it: As a substitute for vermouth in your favorite cocktail

While I try not to let the seasons dictate my beer choices, the weather can certainly play a role in what I drink. When the heat and humidity seem to almost overwhelm, I quickly reach for a Bell’s Oarsman. This low-alcohol wheat beer is light and refreshing with a snappy amount of acidity, making it quite quaffable.

Dimmi was first produced in 1932 but only now reaches the shelves of our fair city. It is made by infusing an organic, wheat-neutral spirit with licorice, orange peel, rhubarb, ginseng and other botanicals. Nebbiolo grappa is then added, along with a hint of organic beet sugar. The end result is a very smooth spirit with dominant notes of citrus and a soft vanilla sweetness.

Its silky finish leaves you wanting another sip.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR AUGUST Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Bellavista Franciacorta Brut N.V. Provenance: Lombardia, Italy Available at: West End Wines, 4906 Laclede Ave., Central West End, westendwines.com; $35.50 Pairings: Crudo • Cheese soufflé • Tempura

Franciacorta is the name of this sparkling wine, as well as its growing region and production method.

Creamy and rich with tiny, tight bubbles, it is made mostly of Chardonnay with touches of Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco. Made with a process that mimics méthode champenoise, this Italian bubbly is rich with ripe green fruits of apple and pear and has a toasty finish filled with lingering vanilla notes.

The Charles Smith Family Vino Pinot Grigio 2011 Provenance: Columbia Valley, Wash.

Available at: Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com; $13.49 Pairings: Cream sauces • Butter-poached fish • Curry chicken salad

With a wife hailing from Italy, it was only a matter of time before Charles Smith began to experiment with native Italian varietals in the Northwest.

Aromas of freshly snipped greens are followed by pear and honeysuckle notes against a stonelike minerality in this single-vineyard Pinot Grigio.

Crisp, elegant and fruity, this white complements summer fare of varying flavors, spices and textures.

Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Vecchia Modena 2010 Provenance: Emilia-Romagna, Italy Available at: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $16 Pairings: BBQ • Prosciutto • Ricotta

Produced in the frizzante style, this fruity, frothy and food-friendly wine is light-bodied yet bursts with intense berry flavor. Lambrusco can range from bone-dry to dessert in a glass, and the Modena is nowhere near the sweet side. It exhibits a clean, bright bouquet reminiscent of sour cherries and freshly picked raspberries.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST for a happy hour wine tasting at Mosaic in Des Peres on Thu., Aug. 16, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

33

mystery shopper

Green-Chile Sauce

By Jonathan Jones, Southwest Diner

Spoon this sauce over eggs and potatoes; add it to burritos, enchiladas and casseroles, or serve with grilled pork, beef or chicken.

Serves | 8 to 10 |

2 lbs 4 Tbsp ½ cup 1 tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp 4 cups 3 Tbsp 3 Tbsp

Hatch green chiles vegetable oil diced white onion minced fresh garlic Mexican oregano ground cumin granulated garlic salt chicken stock cornstarch water

| Preparation | Roast whole chiles on a grill or

Add oil to a sauté pan set over medium-high heat.

Add onion through salt and cook until onions are translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add chopped chiles. Sauté for 1 minute. Add just enough stock to cover and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until chiles are softened and liquid is reduced about 1/3 in volume. In a small bowl, make a slurry of cornstarch and water. Add half the slurry to the simmering sauce. Add more slurry, as needed, to thicken the sauce until it becomes semiopaque and lightly coats the back of a spoon. Adjust salt to taste.

MEET: Hatch Chiles Parma has its prosciutto, Champagne touts its sparkling wines and Kobe is known for its richly marbled beef. But how in the world did little Hatch, N.M., take its rightful place with the planet’s epicenters of culinary benchmarks?

Like with the aforementioned cities and their famous products, the growing conditions and rich soils around Hatch produce an abundance of world-class peppers.

Stop by 34

feastSTL.com

Written by Erik Jacobs

What is it?

How do I use it?

Chile aficionados understand and appreciate this

New Mexican cuisine is defined by the chile sauce

cosmic convergence. Each Labor Day weekend,

that adorns many of its dishes. Roasted chiles

tens of thousands flock to Hatch to celebrate all

are puréed with spices and herbs and served over

forms of the pepper. And while there is no specific

enchiladas, burritos, tacos and more. Top a burger

“Hatch” variety of chile, farmers from the area

with a roasted Hatch chile, a tranche of Chihuahua

have been aggressively marketing their special

cheese and a little guacamole. Experiment with your

chiles for years. Different strains of the peppers

summer potato salad by throwing in some diced

can be grown elsewhere, but only chiles from this

chiles. The earthy flavors combine well. Larger

area can be called Hatch chiles. Cultivars such as

varieties of Hatch chiles are excellent for rellenos,

“Big Jim,” “NuMex 6-4 Heritage” and “Barker” are

although because of the variability of capsaicin (the

generally long, tapered fruits with medium to high

component responsible for the heat), you may be

heat levels and a meaty flesh. Green when fresh,

playing Russian roulette by serving them to a crowd

they are red when dried.

whose temperament for spice is unknown.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring hatch chiles. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

AUGUST 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

under the broiler until skins blister and turn black. Place hot chiles in a heat-safe container and cover. Allow them to rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove from the container and scrape charred skin off the meat of the chile. Keep a little char to add flavor. Remove the seeds and stems and chop chiles coarsely.

check it out!

Feast extra

Come see us in Historic Downtown Alton!

Bossanova Restaurant and Lounge offers a modern hip atmosphere, our James Bond inspired martini list, 60 beers by the bottle and casual American menu with something for everyone. We feature artisan pizzas with our famous in house crust, fresh salads and world inspired entrées. We make biweekly trips to the Alton Farmer's market to source from local suppliers and our Monday $5 pizza is still the best deal in town! There's a lot to see and do in our historic entertainment, retail, loft district of Downtown Alton! Come on over! mon-thurs 4pm-2am fri-sat 4pm-3am sunday 5pm-2am

restaurant & lounge

%%$ 1& 8<:!- 9;& " +7;#2( 6. " *%'&/*$&%%), " 57;#23#==5&0#4

Famous For Desserts... And So Much More!

Monday Night Special $9 Dinner Plate Plus ½ Off Wine Happy Hour In the Bar Mon-Fri 4-7pm ½ Off Wine and Beer Plus $5 Martinis Sunday Brunch $5 Mimosas, Bellinis and Bloody Marys

,(2 *6<; .$087$$- # 1"4<;"! 9!$:"< ,2''+ # 2'/)+,2)2&2& # 0%!63$<)0$5

Retail and Wholesale For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service.

Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market.

We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

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Refreshing Wines & Specialty Beers Wine Shop, Tasting Bar & Wine Garden...Whether you’re a seasoned wine drinker with a specific palate or a new wine drinker unsure of what to try or what you might like, Chateau La Vin is the place for you.

,B%A% /%?! A#C& %" =B#::& ;B%!5A%5

Just a short drive to Columbia, IL brings you to Chateau La Vin, the St. Louis region's newest wine shop, tasting bar and wine garden! Come taste some old favorites and tempt your palate with something new! Enjoy our cheese selections along with your wine and make it a fun afternoon or evening with friends in our cool and comfortable wine shop and tasting bar. Wine not your thing? We have a great selection of specialty beers, too!

((+ =%?AB 28@5 =A!##A $ /%:?76@8. 93 $ 1(-*'-(*-((0 $ 3@<# ?C %5 )84#6%%<

$ 4B8A#8?:8>@5*4%7

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

35

tECH SCHOOL

Tempura Frying STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

American restaurants generally offer something for everyone, using a wide array of ingredients and cooking methods. To do this, kitchens are filled with an army of chefs, sous chefs, line cooks, pastry cooks and so on. To a Japanese chef, this is truly a foreign concept. In Japan, chefs train for their entire lives to master the art of a single technique.

In Hamamatsu, Japan, there is a well-known tempura restaurant called Tenkin. This small restaurant has only one chef. He is such a master of tempura that he tests the temperature of the oil by placing his fingers into it before dropping in the food. Another tempura restaurant, Tsunahachi, in Tokyo, is much larger but still has only one chef who fries the food, while two sous chefs quickly prepare and batter the ingredients for the chef. To them, tempura isn’t just a cooking technique – it’s a craft.

With so many chefs devoting their lives to this craft, the recipes for tempura vary as much as our grandmothers’ marinara sauces.

Chefs use well-guarded tricks and secret ingredients to make each of their batters unique. But for the rest of us, a reliable and delicious tempura batter is all we need. Over the years, I’ve developed a few tricks of my own and combined them with a few secrets gleaned from the handful of Japanese chefs with whom I’ve had the honor of working.

Tempura Green Beans with Tentsuyu Sauce and Daikon Some of the ingredients may need to be sourced from a specialty market. The authenticity they bring to the dish, however, makes them worth the extra trip. This appetizer will soon become the most popular guest at your party. You may want to make a double batch!

This recipe seems overly complicated, I know. You’re thinking: “Can’t I just use a fork? Is it really important that I chill the water?”

The answers are definitively “no” and “yes,” in that order. These intricate details are what contribute to tempura batter that is light and airy, that barely clings to the food itself and preserves the natural beauty of the individual ingredients. Overmixing the batter with a fork or whisk will break down the glutens and create a thick, doughlike batter. Using chopsticks lessens the likelihood of overmixing and leaves behind little clumps of flour that give you those wonderful air pockets in the fried batter. Keeping the batter cold also prevents glutens from overdeveloping. If you can’t fry the batches quickly enough, you can place your batter over a bowl of ice water to keep it from getting warm.

Tentsuyu Sauce

In the end, if you find that your batter is heavy or mushy, add some more cold water to thin it out and try not to agitate it. Also, don’t overcoat your ingredients – tempura is light and delicate.

You’re not frying beer-battered onion rings, after all.

Garnishes

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Take on tempura with chef Cassy in this step-by-step video.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

36

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2012

1

4 cups 1 cup 1 cup 1 cup 2 Tbsp

4-inch piece of kombu seaweed cold water bonito flakes mirin soy sauce sugar

Tempura Green Beans 2 quarts

2 cups 1 cup

2 1½ cups 1½ cups

1 lb

peanut or sesame oil all-purpose flour rice flour eggs tap water, chilled soda water, chilled green beans, trimmed

shredded daikon radish green tea salt, bamboo salt or shiso salt

| Preparation – Tentsuyu Sauce | Lightly wipe the seaweed with a damp towel. Combine the seaweed and cold water in a medium pot and soak for 20 minutes. Bring the water to a boil. Add the bonito flakes and immediately remove from heat. Steep the mixture for 5 minutes and then strain through

a fine-mesh sieve. Press the ingredients to extract as much flavor as possible.

Return the strained liquid to the pot and add the mirin, soy sauce and sugar. Bring to a simmer and whisk until the mixture is thick and flavorful. Set aside until ready to use.

| Preparation – Tempura Green Beans | Heat the oil in a large

pot until it reaches 380°F to 390°F on a high-temperature thermometer. Combine the two flours in a large bowl. In a separate small bowl, combine the eggs, tap water and | 1 | soda water. Whisk to combine. Add the egg mixture into the flour mixture in a slow, steady stream, | 2 | whisking with a pair of chopsticks until just combined.

The batter will be lumpy and should be of medium thickness – neither pasty nor runny. If it is too thin, it won’t adhere to the vegetables properly. Add a bit more rice flour, 1 Tbsp at a time,

until it is thick enough to coat a spoon but still runs off easily.

| 3 | In small batches, dip the green beans into the batter and toss to coat. Remove from the batter and allow excess batter to drip off. | 4 | Carefully place the green beans into the hot oil and use chopsticks to constantly turn and move them. Fry until goldenbrown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, remove the green beans and drain them on a paper towel-lined plate.

Repeat the process with the remaining green beans. Between each batch, be sure to spoon out any bits of batter remaining in the oil to prevent burning and allow the oil temperature to return to at least 380°F before adding more green beans.

| To Serve | Place the tempura green beans on a large serving platter and garnish with finely grated daikon radish, specialty salt and tentsuyu sauce.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

37

how to

how to

Use Your Chef’s Knife

Get a grip The descendents of Japanese sword makers may have made that Shun knife in your hand, but that doesn’t mean you need to wield it like a samurai.

Instead, grab the knife right above the bolster – the fat metal lip where the base of the blade meets the handle. | 1 | With your dominant hand, use your thumb and inside part of your index finger to pinch the knife at the bolster. Use your remaining fingers to grip the rest of the handle like you would a broom: lightly but with control.

written by Brandon Chuang

This column is meant to teach you about things that will help you a) expand your cooking knowledge, b) impress your friends and family, or c) avoid embarrassing culinary faux pas. This month’s topic achieves all of the above with an added benefit: d) ensure you don’t end up in the emergency room.

Knuckle up You want to have command of your knife but also control over whatever it is you’re cutting. Since your dominant hand is already full, the nondominant hand, or guide hand, holds the food you’re about to cut. | 2 | When holding something with your guide hand, make sure your fingers remain tucked underneath your knuckles. Yes, if you’re not careful, you could end up with some bad scrapes, but it beats not being able to count to 10 with your hands for the rest of your life.

Slice smarter For larger items such as potatoes, | 3 | position the fat of the blade as the cutting point and slide it down and away from you. You could cut straight down like a paper cutter, but the back-to-front motion will make a smoother incision with less effort. For smaller items such as celery, | 4 | keep the tip of the blade stationary on the cutting surface and use the weighted end to slice, again away from your body. By doing so, you’ll use less effort because you’re only raising part of the knife versus the entirety. It may not seem like much when you’re dicing a few carrots for a salad, but it’s a saving grace when you’re chopping celery for stuffing to feed 20 hungry guests on Thanksgiving.

Make moves One of the biggest mistakes amateur chefs make is to move the knife while chopping. Don’t. Do. This.

Instead, move the food to the knife with your guide hand. The key to proper use of a chef’s knife is control, and you can’t control it well if you’re cutting and moving it around at the same time. It’ll seem awkward at first, but be patient. It may take some practice, but you’ll be busting out beautiful, uniform and, most important, injury-free cuts before you know it.

It’s counterintuitive, but a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. Sharp edges will slice cleaner and cut truer, while a dull knife can slip and slide around. Sharpening rods are more for general maintenance than actual honing, so make sure to get your knives professionally sharpened at least once a year. It’ll cost you a few bucks but will save you plenty of pain.

38

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2012

Illustration by Derek Bauman

Stay Sharp

You are invited to celebrate our 75th birthday with us all month long!!

Chicken, steak, pasta, seafood, salads & sandwiches. Dine-in or carry-out, full bar, large groups, outdoor patio.

Only 25 minutes form St. Louis. 255 N to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13. Super easy to get to.

Open at 11am daily for lunch and dinner (Closed Mondays).

See our website for August events and specials www.castellis255.com

31'' ($>="!5;!? :/) # -9=$4+ 80 # ,&*)1,%)1,%' # 27>="99<>%..)2$6

Come taste what all the FASS is about!

Nutty Asparagus Salad Ingredients for 4 portions: 16 oz. asparagus, chopped in to bite-sized pieces 8 oz. strawberries, halved 1/2 lb. cooked ham, diced 6T. Waldburg Balsam Strawberry Vinegar 6T VOM FASS Pistachio Oil Cook the asparagus al dente - remove from heat. Allow to cool as you whisk the Strawberry Vinegar and Pistachio Oil together in a large bowl.

Add the asparagus and toss together. Add the ham to the bowl. Allow to steep over night for best flavor. Fold in the strawberries before serving.

,5'3 .964?"@>"! /=")$ .9#:";%%1 $ 5'3)*5&)0&-& $ 7+.(/<<<2.+)4%8

You Can't Beat G&W Meat!

G&W Sausage carries authentic Bavarian Meats and Cuisine. A St. Louis culinary fixture since 1965, G&W meats are the best-kept secret of many local St. Louis restaurants and grocery deli counters. In addition to the G&W shop you can find their famous sausages at Grant's Farm, Gus's Pretzels, Local Fairs, Attractions, or ask for it by name at your grocery store.

Now open to the public Tuesday - Saturday by popular demand!

Stop in and sip on a Busch beer as you choose from their extensive selection of sausages made onsite incliuding many varieties of bratwurst, cajun andouille, italian salsiccia, polish sausage, lunchmeats, as well as their newest creation; Chicken Sausage in Original, cheese and cajun flavors.

Dont' Forget: National Bratwurst Day is Thursday, August 16th!

1,', +7!9#! /;#* $ :%<>? -=>& %"" %" 3=5A@?=A?87& $ 4(1*40'*0).. $ A8@7<@7A#*2%6

Download Our New App & Order Online!

While Culpeppers is famous for their award winning chicken wings, we're loved for our large, diverse menu and festive happy hours.

Dine in, carry out or order online. Culpeppers has something for everyone including great appetizers, sandwiches, salads and entrées.

Everything is available to order online and many locations deliver. ‘Like’ us on Facebook and become a ‘Friend with Benefits’. You'll enjoy special savings in addition to our great food.

All locations now have WiFi!

1;!76&&. $ ,"2<!45 0">< )2. $ ,!"9" ,&":! $ 8<( ,=4!5"> $ +%'455&2* -+ $ /:5#"##"!>(/&3 Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

39

EASY EATS

A Refreshing Summer Soup Story and recipe by Tory Bahn

There’s nothing more refreshing during the dog days of summer than a cold cup of gazpacho. Gazpacho is traditionally a raw-vegetable soup made primarily with tomatoes, but this modern variation highlights one of gazpacho’s less prominent ingredients – cucumber – and makes it the star of the show. The addition of mint, which may be growing like wildfire in your garden by now, adds a signature summer flavor. Coconut milk provides a subtle sweetness in the background and a rich nondairy alternative to yogurt, which is often used in gazpacho variations. Pair it with grilled fish and crispy jicama salad for a light and cool meal on a hot summer day.

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Serves | 4 to 6 |

2 English cucumbers, chopped

¼ medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium shallot, chopped

1 yellow bell pepper, membrane removed, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped

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CHEF’S

1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped 8 to 10 large mint leaves, chopped ¼ cup canned coconut milk ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp sea salt freshly ground black pepper

A can and a plan. Coconut milk is used in a variety of cuisines and adds a pleasant creaminess to any dish. This

Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

40

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check it out!

Feast extra

the bowl of a food processor. Process into a purée with a slightly textured consistency. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

Serve chilled.

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’Brane surgery. The membrane of a bell pepper is the textured, almost bubbly film closest to the flesh. It has a slightly bitter aftertaste that some people notice in raw bell peppers. It’s simple to remove. Once you have seeded the pepper and cut away the white pith, cut the pepper into strips about 2 inches wide. Very gently apply your knife just under the membrane. You should be able to see the blade through the membrane. Gently saw the blade under the membrane until it is removed and a smooth, clean finish remains.

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., Aug. 22, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

| Preparation | Place all ingredients in

recipe calls for canned coconut milk, as opposed to the refrigerated coconut milk found in the dairy aisle. It tends to separate in the can, so make sure to mix it well before measuring and adding it to your dish. If desired, you can substitute an avocado or 6 oz of Greek yogurt for the coconut milk in this recipe.

Blending in. If you don’t have a food processor, don’t sweat it. You can make this simple and tasty soup in a blender. Just be sure to add the liquid ingredients to the blender pitcher first, followed by the raw vegetables, in order to achieve the proper consistency.

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Our Readers’ 50 Food Faves

There's a very special relationship in this town between the people who make food and the people who consume it. Every year we turn our pages over to our readers to tell us what makes the local culinary scene special. The result is an unabashed appreciation of the hard work and innovation put forth by the industry. Our Feast 50 issue isn't simply a celebration of our magazine's anniversary but a tribute to the people and places that make St. Louis a top-notch food city. From beloved hometown specialties to contemporary culinary greatness, the Feast 50 is merely a taste of our delicious food culture.

Contact information for restaurants and businesses is listed on p. 78.

|1|

Stone Soup Cottage | Carl McConnell As far as chefs go, Carl McConnell from Stone Soup is really doing it right. He’s such a talented man, but at the same time he is very gracious. – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen I am quite fortunate to live less than two miles from what is, in my opinion, the best dining establishment in the St. Louis area, Stone Soup Cottage. The only remotely negative thing that can be said about Stone Soup Cottage is that it is too darn difficult to get a reservation. The old farmhouse is enormously charming, and chef Carl McConnell and his wife, Nancy, are a delight to be around. I have dined there four times and left each time thinking it was the best dining experience ever. Particularly memorable was the smoked-duck cannelloni with brown-butter sauce.

– Coyt Walters Pictured right: Buttermilk crepe filled with

applewood-smoked duck and farm-fresh cabbage at Stone Soup Cottage

"It’s pretty cool how hell bent Saint Louisans are on supporting locally owned and operated restaurants."

– Chris LaRocca, owner, C/A Restaurant Development & Management Co.

|2|

Sameem Afghan Restaurant 42

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2012

Some of the best food in this town is served at Sameem Afghan Restaurant. The food, simply put, is magical.

Aromas and flavors and colors of a world far away. The food does exactly what it is supposed to do: It makes you euphoric. I can eat there every day and not get tired. What they do with lamb is remarkable. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio

|3|

Taste by Niche | Ted Kilgore I really don’t go out that much, but for upscale, cutting-edge cocktails I prefer Taste and the drinks of master mixologist Ted Kilgore. Ted is one of the best mixologists in the nation. – John Sears, owner, West End Wines

I salivate at the mere mention of the shiitake custard from Liluma Side Door. It is heaven in a ramekin. I’m not a big fan of mushrooms, so I was skeptical. But once I took a bite, I was instantly a custard junkie. It’s creamy, savory and has the perfect balance of onion and mushroom flavors. I usually run out of crostini halfway through, at which point I just grab the nearest spoon and polish it off. – Angela Antkowiak, associate producer, Living St. Louis

As far as drinks, hands down the best I have ever had was made by Ted at Taste. And the worst part is I don’t know what it was or what was in it. I told him to surprise me, and when I had this drink, it was magical. I still dream about it. I know it had fresh herbs, gin and egg whites. I will be chasing that memory for a long time. – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel’s Market Café

The hummus at Stellina.

– Caryn Dugan, STLVegGirl.com My favorite comfort food will always be the meatloaf sandwich at City Diner. It tastes like the meatloaf my mother used to make when I was growing up, only better because at the City Diner I can have a cocktail with it.

– Angela Antkowiak, associate producer, Living St. Louis

Taste is perfect for when my wife and I need a break. – Marc Del Pietro, Luciano’s Trattoria

Visit feastSTL.com to get the recipe for the Feast cocktail, created by Ta ste's Ted Kilgore.

|4|

Zoe Pidgeon

Zoe Pidgeon has been an icon in the St. Louis restaurant scene for 25-plus years. Zoe is not a chef, but she is a truly good cook with an impeccable palate and an unmatched understanding of hospitality. Her restaurants, past and present, are always beautiful, clean and, above all, delicious.

And consistently so! – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soonto-be Elaia and Olio I’ve never had anything less than fantastic at I Fratellini. – Heidi Glaus, reporter, KSDK

Affogato Di Gelato at Bravo! – Kerri White, owner, Zettie’s Confections Pizza from PW Pizza, fried catfish from Yummies Restaurant, macaroni and cheese from Sweetie Pie’s, and tacos from La Vellesana on Cherokee.

– Kacie Starr Triplett, alderman, 6th Ward World’s Fair Doughnuts. Delicious, fresh and friendly service!

– Katie Heaney

5

|5|

Culinary Pioneers We have some chefs that have pioneered modern American cuisine. Bill Cardwell was truly the first to be nationally recognized in the 1980s with his trendsetting establishment in Clayton. Also, Jim Fiala is one of my favorite classically trained and experienced chefs who is also a great restaurateur. The Crossing still remains one of the few true fine-dining spots in the city. I cannot name everyone, but most are familiar with Gerard Craft, and there is also the old driving force of Harvest, Steve Gontram, who will be sharing his Zen-like interpretation of ground meat and transcending all other burger establishments with his new effort, Five Star Burgers. – John Sears, owner, West End Wines Here and only here is where chefs, instead of compete, share, collaborate and encourage each other. In this day and age of chef celebrity, I want to celebrate the people like Zoe Pidgeon, Vince Bommarito Jr. from Tony’s and Mengesha Yohannes from Bar Italia, who’ve been around and weathered the storms and have been mentors to so many in our industry. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio

Champagne in The Lobby Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis

|6|

I drink Champagne. And there’s no other place better than the Lobby at The Ritz to do so with class. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio

"Some really talented people call St. Louis home, and they provide us with cuisine and menu concepts found only in cities of culinary greatness."

– David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media

Sump Coffee

|7|

Sump Coffee is sheer brilliance. If they gave Michelin stars for coffee, this guy would have three stars without a doubt. The dude brings coffee tasting up to a whole new level for the city of St. Louis, and he’s expanded so many of our palates and our expectations for what coffee is and is supposed to be.

– Eric Scholle, general manager, Farmhaus Restaurant Scott Carey from Sump has inspired me to look at coffee in a different light.

I don’t drink beer; I taste beer. I don’t drink wine; I taste wine. But I have always just drunk coffee. That has all changed. I really appreciate the coffee conversations at Sump. Geeking out over the terroir of the bean (one of my favorite subjects to talk about), talking about what roast does to flavor, what makes espresso “espresso or not espresso.” I now taste coffee.

– Kevin Lemp, president and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co.

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Inspired Food Culture

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Nothing beats the specialty po’ boy at Southwest Market Cuisine, piled high with housemade salami, ham, bologna, American cheese, pickles, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, peppers, mustard and mayo. It seems so simple, but it’s truly an original experience. That and the friendliest staff on Earth will no doubt bring you back again and again. – Alex Elmestad, manager of public programs and interpretive technology, Contemporary Art Museum (CAM) St. Louis I crave cannelloni from Giovanni’s on The Hill. – Wil Pelly, chef, Sanctuaria and Diablitos

|8|

David Bailey

Go to feastSTL.com to get the recipe for Rachel Witt’s mother’s meatloaf.

|9|

Going out to eat is an experience from start to finish, even down to the décor and atmosphere.

David Bailey has that figured out. Two places I love to take people are Baileys’ Range and Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar. The attention to detail is superb. The themes of the restaurants are carried throughout all aspects. For example, Range has a theme of vintage homemade-burger shop. They serve cocktails and shakes in mason jars; they make their buns, pickles, ketchup, etc., from scratch; and it is housed in an industrial-style building. Delicious food and impeccable details. It doesn’t get much better than that! – Nichole Carpenter, marketing and community relations specialist, Whole Foods Market - Galleria I adore Baileys’ Chocolate Bar. I love the way they put chocolate cookies on the table. Great dessert, appetizers, and their drinks are just the best. Can we say, "Chocolate coma!"

– Rachel Witt, executive director, South Grand Community Improvement District

Mai Lee Restaurant Mai Lee is comfort food for me. – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen We love Mai Lee. From soups to hot pots, the food always seems to soothe the soul. – Stanley and Arlene Maminta Browne, Robust Wine Bar I constantly crave the soups at Mai Lee. – Marc Del Pietro, Luciano's Trattoria 46

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2012

Bridge is a go-to place. That is the first place I sampled beers from Perennial. – Greg Lukeman, executive director, Food Outreach

I always find myself craving a Bavarian pretzel with Welsh rarebit and a perfectly poured Guinness at Dressel’s Public House. The twisted pretzel is served hot and has an almost-unreal combination of fluff and salt. And if I didn't know any better, I would say the Guinness on tap runs on an underground pipeline straight from Ireland. – Alex Elmestad, manager of public programs and interpretive technology, Contemporary Art Museum (CAM) St. Louis The croque madame at Brasserie, “breakfast” at Farmhaus, pulled pork and Carolina mustard barbecue sauce from Pappy’s Smokehouse, the Volpi prosciutto plate and mixed-olive plate at Sasha’s Wine Bar and finely shaved prosciutto from Salume Beddu. – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media

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| 10 |

Jamaican Food on the Patio at The Venice Café Under the trees in the shade with the sun peeking through, surrounded by art, there is something magical about the patio of the Venice Café at 4:30pm on a Saturday afternoon. Sharing the assortment platter of Jamaican food with friends while reggae music plays in the background – heaven, mon! I almost feel transported to the Caribbean. Jeff, the owner, is often there, tweaking or working on art. So relaxing, so much fun!

– Karen Klaus, director of development, Operation Food Search

Pappy’s Smokehouse | Mike Emerson

| 11 |

Mike Emerson at Pappy’s Smokehouse is great. You go in there at lunch, and Mike is shaking hands with every person who comes through the line. That’s how you run a successful restaurant. – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media I eat ribs at Pappy’s as often as I can. – Brian Hardesty, Guerrilla Street Food As a foreigner and a snob, I must admit I have a weakness for barbecue.

I eat at Pappy’s a couple times a month. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio Pappy’s is my favorite place for comfort food. – Kevin Lemp, president and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co. I crave Pappy’s brisket. The entire experience of the smoke, the line and the sauce. It is a must for any out-of-towner. – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel’s Market Café

Cherokee Street Antique Shops

| 12 |

The little antique shops down Cherokee Street are great for finding beautiful and unique serving dishes, storage containers and imbibing vessels. – Tom Schmidt, owner, Franco and Nico I’ve been known to explore the shops on Cherokee for nuggets of greatness! – Wil Pelly, chef, Sanctuaria and Diablitos

| 13 |

Popcorn at Tivoli Theatre The one food that will always remind me of my time in St. Louis is popcorn from the Tivoli Theatre. I worked at the theater throughout my 20s, and one of the perks, in addition to great movies, was free popcorn and soda. As a broke college student, my diet consisted mainly of coffee and Tivoli popcorn. To this day I will sometimes wander in and buy a bag, even if I’m not seeing a movie. – Angela Antkowiak, associate producer, Living St. Louis

Go to feastSTL.com to get Wil’s family recipe for The Pelly Tamale.

5 | 14 |

Urban Cocktail Lounge

The Kiwi at Urban Cocktail Lounge

My favorite place to imbibe is Urban Lounge. Nhat makes a great drink but also has the barside manner of a young Sam Malone.

Minus the seltzer. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tom Schmidt, owner, Franco and Nico

5

| 15 |

Corner of Euclid & McPherson The corner of Euclid and McPherson has it all, including my vote for the best restaurant neighborhood in St. Louis.

Dressel’s Pub and Llywelyn’s are places that I love and should be noted for their contributions to the ’hood. Herbie’s is where my heart is! For drinks and dinner, it’s the place for me. The history there is wonderful, and the food is fabulous. Jeff Orbin and Aaron Teitelbaum know how to make you feel special and very welcomed, which is such a talent and the most important ingredient in a great restaurant. Of course, variety is what makes life great, so on some days I go to Pi Pizza, where I order a pizza with any number of terrific toppings and a BLT salad.

And if there are leftovers, all the better for an evening snack.

Pi, hot or cold, is the best in town! I love the salads at Duff’s for lunch. However, if I’m looking for a more substantial lunch, I go next door and order the Brisket a Basket from Kopperman’s Deli with a side of country potato salad. The overstuffed sandwich really hits the spot, and Dan, my server, is always a delight with his dry wit. This neighborhood is also blessed to

Curried beef croquettes

at Dressel’s Public House

have Vino Gallery, which is a great place to pick up a wonderful bottle of wine on my way home or five cases to serve at a gallery opening. The combination of eateries and shopping against a beautiful and historic backdrop makes the corner of Euclid and McPherson hard to beat! – Philip Slein, owner, Philip Slein Gallery Dressel’s is the most underrated place in town. Seriously, someone needs to shine a light on these guys! – Brian Hardesty, Guerrilla Street Food Aaron Teitelbaum, the executive chef and owner at Herbie’s, always treats us very well, and the food has never disappointed. He and Jeff Orbin go with the flow and make it happen. – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media

"My favorite thing about this city is that its people are ready to welcome a new idea, restaurant or chef, with open arms. I feel a responsibility to those people to contribute my very best effort every day." – Brian Hardesty, Guerilla Street Food

ng the Brisket

rvi Dan Winslow se

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5

The Vino Gallery

If I ever moved away, I would miss the smoked-trout pancake at Herbie’s.

– John Sears, owner, West End Wines Duff’s was the very first restaurant I went to in the Central West End when I was a teenager in the ’70s. That first night there I met artists, writers, photographers and poets, and after that, the Central West End was where I wanted to be. I’ve been living in the CWE practically ever since. And Duff’s is still my favorite neighborhood restaurant. I love chef Jimmy Voss, who has worked there since he was a teenager.

He knows I like to eat vegetarian most of the time and always has good suggestions and will even substitute to make a dish vegetarian. I love his stories about going on the road to cook for the Grateful Dead. Duff’s has always been generous in donating to the nonprofits where I’ve worked and in letting us hold meetings there. It truly has a familylike vibe going on. I fell in love with the French tomato soup the first time I

Chef Jimmy Foss

at Duff's

ever had it there – and adding Duff’s cornbread to it is like putting the icing on the cake.

When Jimmy came up with the vegetarian pot pie using Match and fall vegetables, I thought I had died and gone to heaven – comfort food at its best! – Karen Klaus, Operation Food Search Shelly and I ate supper at Duff’s each night (two years apart) before Isaac and Clara were born. – Jonathan Parker, owner, Parker’s Table Duff’s Black and Blue burger speaks for itself. It’s divine and always perfectly cooked.

– Kandace Davis, Cha Cha Chow and The Summer Truck

The smoked-trout pancake at Herbie’s Vintage 72

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| 16 |

Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co. When I have a craving for chocolate, nothing can beat a trip to Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co. It has been serving up Old World-style decadences to generations of chocolate lovers since 1981. The first time I walked into the location on Chippewa Street, I was absolutely amazed. Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate churns out just about any variety of chocolate you can dream up, including chocolate-covered cookies, a wide variety of flavored truffles, and classics like nonpareils and chocolate-covered strawberries. They also have a chocolate line called Dreams that replaces traditional cream filling with fresh-fruit centers, which are then enrobed in pure, mouthwatering chocolate. Luckily for all of us chocoholics, Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate will be opening their newest chocolate factory to the public on August 20 with a “top-secret” tasting room! – Heather Durawski

Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant

| 17 |

You wouldn’t think of an Ethiopian restaurant as kid-friendly, but Meskerem on South Grand is one of our toddler’s favorite places to go. Not only is it a place where all patrons are encouraged to eat with their hands, but our son is always treated like a king there. One day he was a bit cranky. Rather than giving him dirty looks, the owner encouraged him to leave the table and gave him a toy truck to push around the restaurant. Great service and it’s a place where my son enjoys the veggie-heavy menu. Meskerem is one of my top St. Louis picks.

– Stefani Pollack, cupcakeproject.com I love the culinary treasures of South Grand, including some of the more recent additions like Meskerem’s really good Ethiopian food. – Mark Richman, owner and president, Skeleton Key

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Andrey Ivanov

Andrey Ivanov is brilliant. He has possibly the best palate and might be the most knowledgeable wine guy in St. Louis. – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen Andrey is one of the most down-to-earth sommeliers I have ever met. His knowledge is impeccable – he won the highest score nationally on the Advanced Sommelier Exam this past year – but his ability to relate that knowledge to the everyday drinker is what makes him successful. Sommeliers can be intimidating, especially one of Andrey’s caliber, but you would never feel out of place or unwelcome at his bar. His passion for educating is exciting and makes me remember why I got into the business in the first place. – Michael Hill Kennedy II, wine director and sommelier, Ritz-Carlton, Pentagon City, Washington, D.C.

The breakfast burrito at The Mud House. No sour cream. Side of Frank’s Red Hot pepper sauce. The repartee is never dull either. There is nothing quite as comforting as a big bowl of pho from Truc Lam. Pho can be had all over, but they have the richest broth in town. – Tom Schmidt, owner, Franco and Nico Harvest’s bacon-wrapped meatloaf on a cold winter's night, or their mussels anytime. I could

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just drink the broth straight.

Artichoke bottoms at Eleven Eleven. Shrimp and grits at Herbie's. The lamb shank at Franco. And I grew up on Nancy Anne Bakery’s gooey butter cake. With all the culinary talent in St. Louis, it gets harder and harder to pick just one favorite! – Greg Lukeman, executive director, Food Outreach Frazer’s cioppino, Tortillaria’s fish tacos, Brasserie’s floating island, House of India’s veggie korma and aloo gobi, burgers and root beer from Carl’s Drive In, I Fratellini's mushroom ravioli and arugula salad, Franco's fries,

Al-Tarboush Deli’s falafel and baklava. – Ann Sheehan Lipton, owner, Winslow’s Home The guacamole egg rolls at Scape are amazing! I only wish chef Eric Kelly delivered to the KMOX newsroom. But that’s OK because the ambience of Scape always serves as a welcome romantic respite from the crazy-busy lives my husband and I lead. – Carol Daniel, news anchor, KMOX The brisket sandwich at Winslow’s Home, feijoada at Yemanja Brasil and Carolyn Downs’ pastries at Cyrano’s. – Chris Bork, chef, Blood & Sand

Go to feastSTL.com to get Mark Richman’s mother’s recipe for pearl onion relish.

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Robust Wine Bar

Robust is my favorite place to grab a drink. – Trip Straub, president and CEO, Straub’s Markets

There is nothing better than sitting outside at Robust, sipping a glass of wine on a street with a lot of foot traffic, watching the people come and go. The wine list is outstanding and reasonably priced, and the food is fantastic. The pear-andprosciutto pizza is worth the trip alone. – Scott Thomas, grillinfools.com I really enjoy what Robust is doing. Stanley Browne helped create my wine list many years ago. He has remained a great friend, and I am so happy for all of his success. – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel’s Market Café Robust is an education if you want it, an adventure if you seek it, and they make it easy for anyone to engage with the cuisine or to just sit back and catch up with friends. As a lightweight, I love the fact that there are so many great wines by the glass from which to choose, and I’m constantly in search of something new. Their menu is diverse without being too lengthy or heavy. And the tapas, or small portions, are really aligned with the diversity of their wines.

– Jennifer Johnson, Certified Specialist of Wine

"Our culinary elegance is that we offer so much that’s interesting and new and GOOD." – Peggy Lents, Lents & Associates LLC

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5 Andy Ayers

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I was at work at Plush, and my buddy Andy Ayers dropped off my weekly case of Dry Dock Farm eggs. Some of you might remember Andy. He owned Riddle’s, a landmark, funky joint in The Loop. I worked for Andy back in the mid-’80s. Back then no one had ever heard of farm-to-table. It was way cooler to order “exotic” things from California, Mexico, those sorts of places. Andy was committed, even way back then, to using locally sourced, fresh ingredients in his place. He recycled and he cared about Mother Earth. I didn’t work for Andy for very long, but his spirit stuck with me through my culinary journey. I left St. Louis and opened my own place in New Harmony, Ind. My property down there sits among acres of cornfields, soybeans or whatever the farmer is growing that year.

When I opened Cooper House, those people didn’t quite know what to make of the garden I kept in the yard, the farmers who pulled up and came around back with sacks of sweet corn, bundles of asparagus picked that morning or the peach lady whose orchards were groaning with sun-drenched beauties just waiting to be turned into this evening’s cobbler or Sunday’s jam for their biscuits.

When I moved back to St. Louis and became a chef again, this time at Vino Nadoz, I had heard about something called Eat Here St. Louis. I called, placed a small order and who shows up but Andy! Here he was again, a little grayer, a bit older, no longer the restaurateur, but still so committed to the local farm scene that instead of retiring and reading Cardinals stats, he reinvented himself as one of the leading sources for chefs in St. Louis to source what’s growing around us.

I can’t even count how many summer tomato salads we rocked out of that place last year. I do know that the flavors that burst in your mouth when you tasted those tomatoes, beets, and fresh-picked pea shoots kept bringing diners back for more.

It’s interesting to sit and think of all the influences in your life that mold you into what you are.

There’s Andy, cruising the back roads of Missouri, looking for the next fresh ingredient to bring to our door. Still recycling (our invoices come on the back of old Riddle’s menus). He may have traded his signature Cardinals hat for a farmer’s floppy straw hat, but the spirit is still there.

– Kathy Schmidt, chef, Plush

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Brasserie by Niche | Michael Petres & Matt McGuire Michael Petres of Brasserie by Niche is an inspirational chef. We began our culinary careers around the same time. No one has been more influential in my professional career than Mike. He’s a perfectionist; he genuinely cares about every component involved in a dining experience; he’s a phenomenal cook, always pushing himself and everyone around him to do this job with passion and understanding of what it means to have a satisfying meal. Love that guy. – Brian Hardesty, Guerrilla Street Food I eat at least twice a month at Brasserie by Niche. Chef Michael Petres is an immensely talented cook with a deep understanding of and appreciation for tradition and technique. His food is extremely flavorful and tasty and also very approachable. It’s not food to talk about; it’s food to devour. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio I was fortunate to work for Matt McGuire for the summer before I opened Franco. His passion, intensity and knowledge are still inspiring these years later. I really don’t think there is a person who does it better. Don’t ask him about me though. I might have been the worst server in King Louie’s history. True story. – Tom Schmidt, owner, Franco and Nico My favorite place to be is at the end of the bar at Brasserie with Matt McGuire.

– Jonathan Parker, owner, Parker’s Table Matt McGuire at Brasserie consistently offers up fantastic wine selections. And I don't even think he drinks! – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media

"I wish our local citizens knew how much chefs and restaurateurs appreciate their enthusiasm for and loyalty to our industry."

– Pat Shannon-VanMatre, owner, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood

I love the sesame tofu at Lemongrass. And I think the pizza at Anthonino's Taverna is the tops.

Clara Moore’s amazing butternut squash lasagna warms me and has given literal comfort to me on many occasions. – Maddie Earnest, co-owner, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe & Catering

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Let's start with the ga roti at Mekong (a simple chicken dish that should have made Vietnam a world superpower).

I also love some Italian staples like Trattoria Marcella’s lobster risotto, the mushroom trio at LoRusso’s Cucina and Tony’s seafood pasta.

Love my sandwiches too. Corned beef from Protzel’s Deli, anything passed across the counter at Adriana's on The Hill and garlic sausage from Joe Fassi Sausage & Sandwich Factory.

– John Carney, The John Carney Show I love the Panino Fresco at Blues City Deli. I also love Vince, the

nicest deli owner ever. And the live blues music during a Saturday lunch.

And the old-fashioned sodas. I could go on forever! Blues City Deli is so much more than a sandwich shop.

On rainy days I always crave the lunch buffet at Everest Café. Glass noodles, steamed rice, vegetable curries, sauces filled with chicken and naan bread – everything always tastes so fantastic. – Jessica Leitch, cityinajar.com Taste Bar’s mussels. – Clara Moore, chef, Local Harvest Cafe & Catering

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Inspired Food Culture

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Pho from Mai Lee, cassoulet from Brasserie and the truffle tots from Blood & Sand. – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen The Italian Cobb salad with shrimp from Cielo. – Karen Klaus, director of development, Operation Food Search

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The Scottish Arms My favorite place to have drinks and good conversations is hands down The Scottish Arms. It has this great cozy, candlelit vibe to it, and the atmosphere is always so laid-back and congenial.

Whether you’re sipping a whiskey in one of the corner booths or having a pint around the fire pit out back, you always feel like you’re among friends.

It’s a truly authentic neighborhood pub. – Angela Antkowiak, associate producer, Living St. Louis

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Steve McInytre I’m a big fan of Steve McInytre at Balaban’s.

He’s forgotten more about wine than I'll ever know. He’s pointed out some amazing affordable wine finds for me.

Our friendship dates back to the old West End spot in the ’70s too.

– John Carney, The John Carney Show 58

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Go to feastSTL.com to get John Carney’s favorite pesto recipe.

Cafe Natasha’s chicken kabob salad with Feta and no onions. Cafe Natasha’s menu is extremely healthy and flavorful! I am originally from New Jersey, and Feraro’s Jersey Style Pizza reminds me of home. The owners of the restaurant are actually from my hometown of Brick, N.J., which is part of the Jersey Shore. I thought when he told me this he was pulling my leg, but when I asked him what street he is from, I knew he was telling the truth!

My favorite is the Soprano, which includes pepperoni, Italian sausage, meatballs, ham and smoked bacon.

Yum!!! – Rachel Witt, executive director, South Grand Community Improvement District Golden tofu from Mai Lee, angel-hair pasta from Tony’s, Dirty Dogz hot dogs at Home Depot, fried chicken from Almonds Restaurant and the cured-meat plate from Brasserie.

– Jonathan Parker, owner, Parker’s Table Special beef noodle soup from Famous Szechuan Pavilion, Blackthorn pizza, and late-night pancakes at Uncle Bill’s.

– Brian Hardesty, Guerrilla Street Food

5 | 24 |

Microbreweries Jeff Britton’s beers at Exit 6 Brewery are out of this world. He was president of the Garage Brewers Society for years and then decided to make it a career. The stuff he is putting out is quite simply the best in the area. While Exit 6 has the edge on beer, they don’t serve food, and thus Ferguson Brewing Co. is the complete package. Their Hefeweizen is the best I’ve ever had, and so is their fried-cod sandwich. I love having lunch there after church and taking a growler home for later. – Scott Thomas, grillinfools.com Who could deny Perennial Artisan Ales as the new hot spot in the city? Housed within a former CocaCola syrup plant in Carondelet, this microbrewery and tasting room is special in every sense of the word.

Bring a friend, sit on their outdoor patio and let the complex flavors of their brews do the rest. I suggest visiting on Beer Release Thursday. Home brewer Jim Leabig does some research and development there, and his personal brew, known as Watermelon Wheat, is by far the best summer drink I have ever tasted. – Alex Elmestad, manager of public programs and interpretive technology, Contemporary Art Museum (CAM) St. Louis I am really excited about all the microbreweries and have enjoyed 4 Hands and Civil Life as of late. – Maddie Earnest, co-owner, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe & Catering I am especially excited to see the local brew market grow.

I did four-course beer dinners with both 4 Hands and Ferguson, and their beers went over great. Ferguson is on our taps at all times, and they are putting out some great beers. 2nd Shift’s Hibiscus Wit is one of

our favorites. The color and original flavor are unlike any beer I have ever had. – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel’s Market Café Talking to the guys at Urban Chestnut is incredibly inspiring. – Clara Moore, chef, Local Harvest Cafe & Catering I love Oysterfest at Schlafly Tap Room. I suppose oysters are technically not a St. Louis food, but because of this delicious and fun event, I now associate oysters with St. Louis. This event is on my calendar every year! – Katie Heaney I am so inspired by Jake Hafner, owner of The Civil Life. I have known Jake since he was at 33 Wine Bar. His friendly personality and his big heart have impacted his community. His willingness to make a difference and give back is felt throughout the Tower Grove South neighborhood and to the officers of the Third District Police Department. I serve as president to the Third District Police Partnership, and Jake is always willing to donate product or create a fundraiser to give back to the officers. – Rachel Witt, executive director, South Grand Community Improvement District One of my favorite things about St. Louis is that it’s a real beer town. Schlafly has led the way with the Tap Room and then Bottleworks. Square One, Six Row, Urban Chestnut, Civil Life, Perennial and others offer you a seat and your choice of hand-crafted beers made by passionate people whose only goal is to quench your thirst with a great brew.

– Brian Pelletier, owner, Kakao Chocolate The German Wheat by Civil Life is uniquely light and refreshing. Not like drinking a pork chop, which some beers can seem like. – Kandace Davis, Cha Cha Chow and The Summer Truck

5 "St. Louis has much more than meat-andpotatoes or barbecue. Of course, we have those things too. And we do them better than most."

– Stephen Wancha, director of food and beverage, Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis

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Royale Fine Food & Spirits I love the Royale. Great drinks, great craft beer and always fun conversation. – Kevin Lemp, president and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co. My favorite place to imbibe is the Royale. It isn’t far from home – a short drive, a quick bike ride or, in a pinch, a walkable distance.

The bar is warm and welcoming and well-stocked. The St. Louisthemed cocktails are fun and interesting. The outdoor patio with its fireplace is comfortable most nights of the year. – Greg Ziegenfuss, Butler’s Pantry

Kirk Warner

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My most admired St. Louis chef hasn’t been at the helm of a restaurant kitchen for six years. He isn’t seen at any of the local culinary competitions, and yet his food is the food I most want to eat. Kirk Warner received plenty of accolades as the executive chef of King Louie’s and Savor, and in 2006 chose to go in a different direction with Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen. Kirk’s best attribute is first and foremost his food, then his skill as a teacher from small classes to team-building events everywhere from St. Louis to Luxembourg, Athens and even Lithuania. It is our honor to have Kirk teach cooking classes, private events and Iron Chef competitions at Kitchen Conservatory. The truest testament to his skills is that most of the staff at Kitchen Conservatory have hired Kirk to cater their most important parties! – Ruth A. Sparrow, director of marketing, Kitchen Conservatory The Holly Hills Daiquiri at Royale Fine

Food & Spirits

Spring rolls at Pho Grand, the Bada Bing salad at Pi, street tacos at Milagro Modern Mexican and burnt ends at Bogart’s Smokehouse.

– Judith Evans, food editor, St. Louis Post-Dispatch My new favorite restaurant is Cleveland-Heath. They make a kale salad that I order every time I am there!

– Pat Shannon-VanMatre, owner, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood

Any veal dish at Paul Manno’s.

– Trip Straub, president and CEO, Straub’s Markets I love shellfish. When my wife and I go to DeMun Oyster Bar, I want to order the whole menu! The mussels at Brasserie are great with Urban Chestnut’s Schnickelfritz.

I love I Fratellini’s risotto, and when they rotate in the lobster version, I’m in heaven!

– David Wolfe, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

Bar Italia has some of the best carpaccio I’ve ever had. Sliced ever so thin and served with chipped Parmesan and capers.

– Marc Enger Steak wasabi from Sidney Street Café. – Kevin Lemp, president and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co. The house salad at Manhattan Express and Cafe Manhattan.

– Mark Richman, owner and president, Skeleton Key

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Dave & Tony’s Premium Burger Joint

What do I crave? Dave & Tony’s burgers. The list of possible toppings is seemingly endless to go on a perfectly cooked burger alongside their amazing fries. And the fact that I can get it on a pretzel bun is the icing on the cake. Being a couple miles away for close to two years made me spoiled.

Now I consider driving 22 miles to have lunch there. Shhhh.

Don’t tell the boss. – Scott Thomas, grillinfools.com

Dave & Tony’s Premium Burger Joint on Olive Boulevard started as a scratch-made sandwich restaurant. I always found great quality and choices, and I returned over and over. But I guess times changed and called for onion straws, not onion rings, avocado on burgers, not just lettuce and tomato. I returned, but I was worried. We went for the burgers, which were always great, but I was tempted to try

something different. I was hesitant to have just another chicken breast, but the opportunity to build your own burger resulted in a rye bun, grilled chicken breast, crispy won tons, garlic aïoli and pineapple. It sounds weird, sure, but you’ll be back for another. I enjoyed it with a cold beer as I dreamed up future combinations. – Robert Payne Newton, Robert Payne Newton and Associates Inc. Inspired Food Culture

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5 Paul and Wendy Hamilton

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Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s restaurants are culinary treasures.

They are always so inventive with their menu and service standards. There is something for everyone.

– Greg Lukeman, executive director, Food Outreach My week wouldn’t be complete without stopping by one of Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s restaurants. I crave the salmon at Eleven Eleven Mississippi and just discovered the ridiculously good scallops at Vin De Set. Plus Scott, the wine director, has never led me wrong on a wine. – Heidi Glaus, reporter, KSDK Paul and Wendy’s culinary interests take them on many fearless entrepreneurial adventures that consistently yield great St. Louis restaurants. To hear the story of how they spent hundreds of hours perfecting the art of pizza – up all night baking pies for weeks on end – to open PW Pizza is inspiring and only eclipsed by their delicious pizza pies. – Jennifer Johnson, Certified Specialist of Wine

University City, beyond The Loop re

Seafood City Grocery Sto

"Whatever you crave, be it Italian, Thai or traditional barbecue, you can find it here." – Kerri White, owner, Zettie’s Confections

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The Loop is great, but the guys surviving outside the popular strip are University City’s real treasures: La Pizza, Mi Ranchito, Wonton King, Jilly’s and Winslow’s Home. – Andy Stein, vice president of street sales, US Foods Seafood City Grocery Store has an unreal selection of live exotic seafood and Asian ingredients. – John Sears, owner, West End Wines

5 Cose Dolci Bakery

| 30 |

Cose Dolci Bakery is a secret treasure. The tiny storefront shop does a limited walk-in business and bakes accordingly. There are usually a few giant cookies to be had, perhaps carrot cupcakes and some excellent scones. Everything is delicious and fresh but nothing unusual. Most of the bakery’s business is special orders, and many customers order cupcakes for birthday parties and pastries for business meetings. But because many things are never in the store’s cases, few people know what wonders are available. There is the chocolate mousse layer cake (pictured right), which has been known to make grown men sigh. And the tarts ‒ oh, the tarts. Key lime is zesty but ever so creamy. Pear with almond custard. Pecan is dense and rich without a trace of gooeyness. And their linzertorte is classic and refined. These are delights that cry out for a dinner party or two forks and someone you love. A lot. – Ellen Snyder

| 31 |

Wittmond Hotel I love to ride my bike to the Wittmond Hotel in Brussels, Ill., for a memorable meal. The Wittmond Hotel started in 1840 as a trading post and then added 15 rooms for river travelers. It grew into a lovely restaurant with a delectable menu. The first course in a dinner at The Wittmond starts with a three-tier relish tray of beets, apple rings, corn relish and peach preserves [along with] coleslaw, applesauce, chicken noodle soup and housemade pork sausage. If you’re there on a Sunday, you’ll also be treated to their cinnamon rolls. The main course offers fried chicken, lightly battered but crunchy; platters of roast beef; mashed potatoes and gravy; corn; and green beans. Chicken and dumplings are served on weekends only. Oh, we’re not done yet! Around hour two of the meal comes dessert: your choice of peach, pecan, blackberry or apple cobbler with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or orange sherbet. What a great meal in a historic building with a gorgeous ride up the Great River Road. – Joe Middleton

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The breadth and depth of serious wines produced in Missouri is Missouri Wineries astounding and commendable.

Missouri producers have the extraordinary challenge of producing great wines unique to our region and introducing these to wine enthusiasts that have only mainstream varieties with which to compare and a memory of unremarkable local wines from yesteryear. There are many great producers such as Augusta Winery, Les Bourgeois Winery, Adam Puchta, Chaumette Winery, St. James Winery and Stone Hill. Missouri wine country makes excellent weekend getaways within an hour or two drive from St. Louis, and many people don’t realize Missouri has five wine trails and counting. – Jennifer Johnson, Certified Specialist of Wine My passion lies in the rolling hills of the Augusta area. As a board member of the Augusta Chamber of Commerce, I get to work closely with the wineries, shops and restaurants in the area. I like to run out to see Rick and Carol at Balducci Vineyards when I’m having a pasta craving. Their seafood pasta is to die for. And of course there is the wine. Over the years I’ve chaired Chamber events to promote and recognize the winemakers of the area. Tony Kooyumjian, who owns Augusta and Montelle wineries, has consistently assisted in seminars and programs to promote quality. He has become very successful, [and] his passion is in raising the bar for quality wine. In part due to his own efforts, Tony has some very good competition from a few up-and-coming winemakers, such as Brandon at Noboleis Vineyards, Chris at Sugar Creek Winery (he has nailed the Norton) and Colin at Mount Pleasant Estates. – Randal Oaks, Oaks Crossing There are so many great wineries in the region.

My wife and I have stayed at Chaumette Winery, Hermann Hill and had a private tour of Mount Pleasant by the owner. We tasted all the wines, ate, hiked, fished and soaked in all of their beauty.

They are all doing a great job for the Lou. – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel's Market Café

Go to feastSTL.com to get Nathan Bennett’s grandmother’s recipe for summer vinaigrette.

We can’t get enough of the | 33 | torta rustica, and the quiche Winslow’s Home Cary McDowell of the day (any day) can’t be beat. Best-kept secret? They have some great finds in their wine shop and Winslow’s Home is the perfect neighborhood no corkage fee. – Stanley and Arlene Maminta one-stop shop offering fresh farm-to-table food Browne, Robust Wine Bar with a fun retail selection offering everything

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from cooking to gardening to home products. We always feel great when we leave there. We love how we can buy fresh eggs or take home chicken pot pie and goat cheese cookies for the kiddos.

Winslow’s Home has absolutely the best brisket sandwich. I don’t know what Cary McDowell puts in it, but it’s very addictive. – Greg Lukeman, executive director, Food Outreach

One dish I constantly crave is bo luc lac, or shaking beef, from Pho Grand. This dish is full of flavor. It’s spicy, delicious and equally good on a cold winter’s night with a glass of Syrah or on a hot summer’s day with a Tsingtao. The portion size is reasonable, which allows me to start with another of my favorites, the seasoned tofu. And the Black Forest ham at G & W Meats is to die for!

– Greg Ziegenfuss, Butler’s Pantry The Oh My God roll at Tani Sushi

Winslow’s Home is great for busy people who might need a gift or want some mindless browsing on a Sunday morning. It’s great to order breakfast and sip your coffee while seeing what new wares they have for sale. – Kandace Davis, Cha Cha Chow and The Summer Truck

Winslow’s Home

Cary McDowell is the best teacher I ever had. Where I’m at today is due to the training I received under him at Revival.

There isn’t a more knowledgeable chef in town. – Chris Bork, chef, Blood & Sand

Bistro is one of my favorite dishes.

– Chris LaRocca, owner, C/A Restaurant Development & Management Co. I’ve only had this dish one time, but I can’t stop thinking about it. I was at Acero, and Jimmy Fiala made our table gnocco fritto. I like to call it a “meat donut,” but basically it’s an Italian beignet topped with prosciutto di Parma, extra-virgin olive oil and Hawaiian sea salt. We had it with Prosecco, and honestly I could’ve eaten all 12 of them on the

plate. Delicious. – Arlene Maminta Browne, Robust Wine Bar The smoked meatloaf at The Shaved Duck is my go-to meal. The smoky taste isn’t something you’d call a traditional comfort food, but it is comforting. And the root beer glaze is sweet and tangy. It always leaves me wanting more. That, with a side of baked beans or creamy mac and cheese, and I have all the meal I could want. – Brian Pelletier, owner, Kakao Chocolate

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"St. Louis has much to brag about."

Maplewood

– Maddie Earnest, co-owner, Local Harvest Grocery and Local

I have a not-so-secret crush on Maplewood. In my eyes it has everything you need in one neighborhood. First, they have two great coffee shops: Foundation Grounds and Stone Spiral. If you have not had a chai tea from Stone Spiral, then you are missing out. It is creamy and just sweet enough with no bitter aftertaste. Yum! Next, you have a strip full of great restaurants of all different styles, my favorite being Water Street. The menu is simple, the prices are fair and the cocktails are out of this world. Their outside patio makes you feel like you are sitting in a cafe in Europe. Lastly, the culinary retail scene is amazing.

You have Penzeys Spices, Vom Fass, Kakao Chocolate and Maven (for their food-inspired candles). Now, if this doesn’t stimulate all of your senses, I don’t know what will.

– Nichole Carpenter, marketing and community relations specialist, Whole Foods Market - Galleria

Harvest Cafe & Catering

Saint Louis Cellars

Maplewood is a great food neighborhood, with places like Acero, Boogaloo, Home Wine Kitchen and Maya Cafe. Plus shopping for oils at Vom Fass, spices at Penzeys and chocolates at Kakao. – John Carney, The John Carney Show Maplewood is a gem, no question about it. Where else could you find so many great restaurants, plus Penzeys, Kakao, Vom Fass and Saint Louis Cellars? – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen There’s a lot to find in Maplewood from a culinary standpoint. Several different restaurants offering a lot of variety, Penzeys Spices, Kakao Chocolate – there’s just a lot going on. – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media Vom Fass

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Maya Cafe

5

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The assorted ch

Kakao is always experimenting with unique ingredients and flavor combinations. Savory items like balsamic vinegar, chile powder or lavender seem like an odd match for chocolate, but Brian Pelletier and his staff somehow make it taste fantastic. There are also things like homemade marshmallows and sea-salt caramels for people who are less adventurous when it comes to their candy. I like pairing Kakao truffles with local beers – like the dark-chocolate vanilla-bean truffle with Urban Chestnut Zwickel.

– Angela Antkowiak, associate producer, Living St. Louis

Go to feastSTL.com to get Angela Antkowiak’s family recipe for pepperoni bread.

Water Street

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Blood & Sand For cocktails, it has to be Blood & Sand. That is an experience on many levels. I just love TJ Vytlacil’s passion for what he does and his risk taking. It’s not for everyone, but he doesn’t care. – David Johnson, president, Coolfire Media We go out of our way to make sure we can get a good glass of wine and/or cocktail. Blood & Sand is the whole package.

– Stanley and Arlene Maminta Browne, Robust Wine Bar Blood & Sand is one of my favorite places to imbibe. I love that TJ Vytlacil and Adam Frager have opened a membersonly restaurant. I’m inspired by their passion for the cocktails and food. – Pat Shannon-VanMatre, owner, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood Look at what Adam and TJ have done at Blood & Sand. A successful members-only cocktail club in St. Louis. Who would have thought? And they’ve done it so well. I love going there after work and sitting at the bar and just letting Adam surprise me. He is always an inspiration – his charisma, knowledge and his passion for what he does – it’s no wonder they have been so successful. TJ has done a great job with their wine program as well. It’s an awesome spot, and it’s so great to say we have this in our city. – Stephen Wancha, director of food and beverage, Four Go to Seasons Hotel St. Louis

feastSTL.com to get Stephen Wancha’s grandmother’s recipe for fern tarts.

| 36 |

Specialty Markets Maude’s Market provides a weekly CSA with locally and sustainably sourced products. She always includes a mix of a starch, some veggies, a canned product, some meat and a treat. Getting her CSA is a great way to have a balanced, locally sourced diet and not have to hunt around looking for different products. Her store is also adorable, and she hires a local artist to decorate the window display.

– Kate Feit, outreach coordinator, AmeriCorps I love Local Harvest Grocery. At least half their inventory is local, and you're bound to find something good.

– Chris Bork, chef, Blood & Sand 68

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AUGUST 2012

I love shopping at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood, where under one roof you can find ingredients from every corner of the Earth. It’s exciting and novel to go shopping there. It's an education. I also love going to Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation in Clayton. It’s a gourmand’s dream store. I want to have everything they have there in my pantry. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio When I create recipes for Cupcake Project using unique, ethnic ingredients, many of my readers who live in cities comparably sized to St. Louis have to buy the

ingredients online. St. Louis is so lucky to have Global Foods Market, a place where I’ve stopped in to buy glutinous rice, golden syrup, boba, mastic gum, lucuma, dried corn husks, chickpea flour and countless other items that are not readily available in other grocery stores. Global Foods Market is a St. Louis treasure. – Stefani Pollack, cupcakeproject.com I love to walk the aisles at Global Foods looking for unique items. I discovered the butters from all over the world at Global, and we haven’t had Land o’ Lakes since! – Steve Neukomm, owner, Square One Brewery & Distillery

Riverbend Restaurant & Bar’s po’ boys and gumbo, Fabrizio Schenardi’s veal and ricotta ravioli at Cielo, Pi’s thin-crust sausage pizza, and everything from Bogart’s. And, without a doubt, Niche’s hen of the wood mushroom dish. I have eaten in all of the great food cities in North America. No dish has left as lasting an impression on me as this one. If it goes off the menu (or when it does, I should say), I will hurt a little inside. – Stephen Wancha, director of food and beverage, Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis I have two words for you: hot salami.

This treat from Gioia’s Deli is probably the best sandwich in the world and is 100 percent St. Louis. The No. 1 reason to head to The Hill. – Mark Hinkle, manager, Annie Gunn’s I love the vegetable stir-fry with orange, basil, grains and tempeh at Home Wine Kitchen. The brickgrilled, herb-marinated half Amish chicken at BC’s Kitchen is juicy and delicious and has a fresh, simple, Provençal quality. The Tavern Kitchen & Bar’s sesame mahi mahi with Thai coconut curry, black tiger shrimp and jasmine rice is perfectly balanced, and it reminds me of curries I tasted during my travels in Southeast Asia.

The Midwestern Cuban sandwich at Sasha’s on Shaw and the cherry clafouti with brandy ice cream from Brasserie are both spectacular.

– Jennifer Johnson, Certified Specialist of Wine

2012

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Bertarelli Cutlery Inc. I really like going to Bertarelli on The Hill to see what new kitchen gadgets they have that I can put on my wish list. It’s the equivalent to going to the hardware store for most guys. The Bertarelli boys get into hundreds of restaurants each week, and it’s good to chat it up with them about the industry. – Chris LaRocca, owner, C/A Restaurant Development & Management Co.

Toasted Ravioli

| 38 |

There are many restaurants in St. Louis that serve toasted ravioli, but who could resist the myth surrounding Mama Campisi’s on The Hill? To me it doesn’t matter whether they were the birthplace of toasted ravioli or not (which they claim to be); it is the mere fact that they have a story to tell. The rich history continues to generate buzz and keeps the establishment a landmark in the neighborhood and throughout the nation. It is fried just right, crispy, yet warm and soft, complemented by just the right ratio of breading and meat. And from Mama’s it is truly the St. Louis original. – Alex Elmestad, manager of public programs and interpretive technology, Contemporary Art Museum (CAM) St. Louis I would miss toasted ravioli if I left St. Louis. The ones at Mama Campisi’s are pretty good. I need to get there more often. – Michael Hobbs, The Melting Pot Restaurant What do I crave? Definitely the toasted ravioli at Farotto’s. Not only do they bread their own ravioli, but then it’s fried, topped with garlic butter and Romano, and then hit under a broiler. I wish the rest of the country could not only taste this rav but understand it. The owner of Farotto’s, Jim Parrot, has been my inspiration since I was 12. He taught me early on and was not only a mentor but more like a father. I wouldn’t be where I am now without Jim, and not a day goes by that I don’t remember that. – Rick Schaper, Dogtown Pizza

P S JOIN US! Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Aug. 22, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704 Make the cucumber-mint gazpacho on p. 40.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Tue., Aug 28, 6pm; Local Harvest Cafe RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com Join us to discuss Missouri Harvest by Maddie Earnest and Liz Fathman. The authors will be on hand to discuss how they work with Missouri farmers and purveyors to make locally grown food accessible to the public through the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

2012 LouFest Sat., Aug. 25 and Sun., Aug. 26; Forest Park; loufest.com This two-day festival features national and local bands, great food in the Feast-sponsored Nosh Pit, cool retail, and a proactive greening effort.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

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Chile Rellenos and Guacamole from La Tropicana Market Café At La Tropicana Market Café, the lovely Trabanco family who owns it makes you feel like you’re part of their family.

I especially like it when they have their outdoor patio open – a perfect way to spend a summer evening. And on weekends, they usually have live music. I put a hunk of the chile relleno oozing with Chihuahua cheese on my fork, then a dab of their fresh guacamole on it, then top it off with their salsa fresca before each bite. Luis Trabanco will stop by my table to take good care of me and my friends, and it isn’t unlike him to bring us some of their delicious homemade flan, on the house! – Karen Klaus, director of development, Operation Food Search

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Veggie Options St. Louis restaurants are rockin’ the plant-based scene!

When I went vegan, it was slim pickings for this girl who loves to dine out. Now, nearly four years later, quite the opposite is true. Everywhere I go I easily find a vegan option on a menu, and if not, the chef is happy to whip something up. Local Harvest Cafe (my fave) always has a green-plate special, and their Vegan Slinger will cure any hangover. Or so I’ve heard.

Fozzie’s Sandwiches actually has a vegan menu, and they have a damn good black-bean burger. Boogaloo has a vegan burger, but their Cuban Veg Sandwich is where it’s at. Would you believe I actually just got a three-course vegan dinner a couple of weeks ago at Prime 1000? They were expecting me, so it was planned, but I understand from the general

manager, Tom, that the chef really wanted to prepare a plantbased meal. – Caryn Dugan, STLVegGirl.com You’ve got to try the Happy Wrap from OR Smoothie & Café. It’s not on the menu, but a lot of people seem to know about it. Mae is very knowledgeable about food and health and makes delicious wraps. The Happy Wrap features fresh romaine lettuce, a meatloaf of delicious vegetarian meat substitute, fresh avocado and tomato, and Mae’s homemade ketchup – you won’t find any high-fructose corn syrup in it.

Mae looks at least two decades younger than she is, so she’s certainly doing something right! – Karen Klaus, director of development, Operation Food Search

The kitchen at Quincy Street Bistro (previously Jimmie’s Saloon) has been quietly taken over by Ricky Lewis from Monarch. They have a buffalochicken-wing dip appetizer that I love when I’m feeling like some good bar food. They also make green-bean casserole completely from scratch as a side dish special. It’s awesome.

– Christy Augustin, chef and owner, Pint Size Bakery I love comfort food. A hidden comfortfood treasure in Dogtown is Sugaree Baking Co.’s handmade chicken pot pie. It’s my favorite thing to eat at home. When I leave the house, there is nothing more comforting than tuna sliders, potato skins with spinach and artichoke, and a drink with bartender and owner Derek Flieg at Three Kings Pub in The Loop. And the lobster risotto at Trattoria Marcella is my go-to when I want a great Italian dinner. – Rick Schaper, owner, Dogtown Pizza

Happy Wrap at OR Smoothie & Café

"I love the farm-to-table movement that has happened over the last five years.

We have plenty of great farms in the area." – Kevin Lemp, president and co-owner, 4 Hands Brewing Co.

| 41 |

Missouri Pork Products We have great pork products in Missouri. I love Patchwork Farms’ bacon and Todd Geisert’s pork chops. – Maddie Earnest, co-owner, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe & Catering

Go to feastSTL.com to get Maddie Earnest’s mother’s recipe for homemade enchiladas and pinto beans.

The Farmers’ Larder cures and smokes some of the best pork around (they use Todd Geisert’s whole hogs). The jowl bacon makes the best BLT I have ever made. I cannot wait for them to get the license to sell to restaurants so I can feature it on my menu. Their andouille is one of the best. I recently visited Todd Geisert’s farm for Chefs in the Pasture. It was really an experience seeing how the whole process worked. Todd showed us every stage of the pigs’ lives. I held a 2-week-old piglet and petted an old Berkshire. That afternoon was inspiring, and the next day I ran his pork burgers with grilled ham and crispy bacon. The staff was telling me I was overdoing it with the pork, but in the end we sold out! – Nathan Bennett, chef and co-owner, Hendel’s Market Café 72

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I always find myself craving the brioche French toast at Half & Half.

There is something so happy about seeing the server walk from the kitchen over to your table in slow motion, like the opening scene from Baywatch, with that delicious plate of fluffy, egg-soaked brioche toast.

Yum. – Michael Hill Kennedy, wine director and sommelier, Ritz-Carlton, Pentagon City, Washington, D.C.

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5 Bryan Young

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Bryan Young is a great caterer. A true food and party expert. He got his start at Balaban’s many years ago and has since made a tremendous impact on our culinary scene, not only for his creativity in the kitchen but for iconic kindness and warmth.

– Philip Slein, owner, Philip Slein Gallery

Camaraderie Among Chefs

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I wish everyone around the city and the country knew the deep level of support and friendship that runs through the restaurants in this city. Whether it’s borrowing random ingredients, picking up a regional specialty while on a trip across the country or giving each other culinary advice, the top chefs in town have a great tradition of sharing instead of competing. It has been one of the aspects of the business in St. Louis that has really attracted me, and it is beneficial for all of us. – Eric Scholle, general manager, Farmhaus Restaurant My favorite thing about the St. Louis culinary scene is easy – the community. I have worked in other major markets, and it is cutthroat, competitive and aggressive. St. Louis has a community of culinarians – chefs, bartenders, owners, etc.

– that take so much pride in the St. Louis culinary scene as a whole, we have all decided being competitive would do more harm than good. Ask any one of us and we will all tell you the same thing – we are here to help our neighbors.

In Maplewood, it might be borrowing the vacuum sealer from Crow’s Nest or giving napkins to Water Street.

In large, it might be Paul and Wendy Hamilton keeping PW open so we can grab a pizza after work or Gerard Craft giving me pointers on keeping my composure or Salt lending us 96 wine glasses for a last-minute party.

We are all in this together, and I haven’t seen that in Houston, San Francisco, Indianapolis, New York or Chicago. – Cassy Vires, chef, Home Wine Kitchen

Matt Obermark

| 44 |

A guy who does great work and doesn’t seek the spotlight is Matt Obermark at Salt. I would put his cocktails up against anyone, but there is absolutely no pretense with him at all. – Josh Renbarger, Home Wine Kitchen

| 45 |

Pi Pizzeria

Pi Pizza has so quickly set a new, notable flavor that if I tasted it anywhere else, it would make me think of St. Louis. – Jonathan Parker, owner, Parker’s Table

Pi Pizzeria is just good food, run by good people who want to run their business the right way. All of those together combine to make it comfort food. – Marc Enger Pi is beloved to me! – Caryn Dugan, STLVegGirl.com 74

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AUGUST 2012

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Kevin Nashan | Sidney Street Café It is the “it takes a village” attitude that makes this town’s food scene so special and gratifying to work and live in. Kevin Nashan is the mayor of that village. The man works tirelessly to elevate the quality of food served in St. Louis. He is charitable and generous with what he shares with other chefs, and his unrelenting quest for more learning and collaborating is a true inspiration. He has raised the bar for all of us. – Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and proprietor of the soon-to-be Elaia and Olio

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard

| 47 |

This is cliché, but I seriously do love Ted Drewes. Sin Sundae is my favorite. – Maddie Earnest, co-owner, Local Harvest Grocery and Local Harvest Cafe & Catering Ted Drewes is worth getting used to (especially if you’re not from the Midwest). Once you do, no other concrete will ever taste as good. – Mark Richman, owner and president, Skeleton Key I absolutely love it when friends visit and I can introduce them to the culinary delights in our city – from steaming bowls of pho at Pho Long in University City to the pork and fennel meatballs at Salt to the Tedad’s concrete at Ted Drewes. – Natalie McLaury, thesweetslife.com The flavor of vanilla will always remind me of Ted Drewes frozen custard. – Kacie Starr Triplett, alderman, 6th Ward Ted Drewes will always remind me of home. – Michael Hobbs, owner, The Melting Pot Restaurant I crave the Hawaiian concrete from Ted Drewes. – Florian Kuplent, co-founder/brewmaster, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

| 48 |

StewedSTL podcast I’d like to throw a plug in for the StewedSTL podcast. Bill Burge, Andrew Mark Veety, Mike Sweeney and Kelli Best-Oliver have done an amazing job getting topnotch guests on the show to open up about things in the business that the public doesn’t get a chance to hear. – Adam Tilford, Tilford Restaurant Group

To me, comfort food is a small Ted Drewes hot-fudge sundae, hold the cherry.

– Ann Sheehan Lipton, owner, Winslow’s Home

Go to feastSTL.com to get Florian Kuplent’s mother’s recipe for Apfelstrudel and Ann Sheehan Lipton’s mother-in-law’s recipe for hot fruit compote.

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market

| 49 |

One of St. Louis’ best treasures is the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. At the first signs of spring, all I can think about is, “When will the farmers’ market open?” There is such a sense of community at the market knowing that we are all there with a common goal: to eat fresh, local produce. Every year it gets bigger and bigger with new vendors added and the selection growing. – Nichole Carpenter, marketing and community relations specialist, Whole Foods Market - Galleria

| 50 |

Tim Brennan | Cravings

In broad terms, Tim’s work at Cravings is a cornerstone for which all fine pastry can (and rightfully should) be judged in our town. From tarts to tortes, brownies to blondies, cakes to all kinds of wonderful cookies, Tim is a true master of his craft, and we are all the richer (and more insulin-producing) for his seemingly tireless dedication to all things sweet. Few people ever mention Tim’s James Beard accomplishments, but they are indeed significant. Before there were any invitations to cook at those hallowed grounds on the edge of New York’s Greenwich Village or nominations for Best Chef or Best New Restaurant, there was a mild-mannered pastry chef in Webster Groves who had won two coveted national awards.

He clearly put St. Louis on the James Beard culinary map.

It is one dessert, however, to which I must draw your undivided attention, and for very good reason. If I could name a dessert that brought me back home to St. Louis, it is Cravings’ limeblueberry bombe.

In 1995, when I was contemplating someday opening my own restaurant, Tim Brennan won his second Best Dessert in the Midwest award with his lime-blueberry bombe. (He had already won a Best Dessert nod from James Beard for his hazelnut zuccotto in 1993.)

The lime-blueberry bombe is ethereal. Tart yet sweet, creamy and fruity, it is the quintessential summer dessert, and yet I crave it year-round. Being a blueberry and citrus fan, I salivate thinking about it. Although I’m known for a particular brioche bread pudding, I would sit down to a piece of deceptively light bombe just about any day of the week.

Besides operating his small restaurant in downtown Webster Groves, Tim remains one of St. Louis’ best caterers. My wife, Jen, and I were lucky to enlist his talents for our wedding nearly two years ago. There were hundreds of delectable goodies, from apple pies and berry tortes to fancy cupcakes, but I made sure to secure a piece of wedding-day bliss: a slice of lime-blueberry bombe! – Stephen Gontram, Five Star Burgers

Cravings’ lime-blueberry bombe

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Geoff Cardin: FEAST 50 No. 24 Jonathan Gayman: FEAST 50 Nos. 4, 8, 14, 20, 21, 23, 25, 35, 39, 44, 46, 50. Famous Szechuan Pavilion spicy beef noodle soup (p. 58) Ashley Gieseking: FEAST 50 No. 37 J. Pollack Photography: Acero gnocco fritto (p. 64) and Half & Half brioche french toast (p. 72) Jennifer Silverberg: FEAST 50 Nos. 1, 3, 7, 16, 19, 27, 30, 33, 40.

World's Fair Doughnuts (p. 43), Pappy's Smokehouse pulled pork (p. 46), Harvest mussels (p. 52), Blues City Deli Panino Fresco (p.

56) and The Tavern Kitchen & Bar mahi mahi (p. 68) Corey Woodruff: FEAST 50 Nos. 10, 15 (all Euclid and McPherson neighborhood photos), 22, 29, 34 (all Maplewood neighborhood photos). Cleveland-Heath kale salad (p. 60)

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Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM

PAINTING

VISITING ANGELS

Trees Trimmed Trees Trimmed & Removed & Removed

% ,056+ -+03&6&6* (3##1 % ,0.!4 $2&6/&6* % ,0.!4 $2&6/&6* % ).##' "61.2+/ % ).##' "61.2+/

7;5391*;/9#%0 391*;/9#%0 +"=)!!8)::+ 7;5 $.**-$.**+"=)!!8)::++

24/7 Companion Care for Seniors.

Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

TREES

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES: QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: BUYING IVORY and JADE figurines.

314-503-4847

COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427

Make a

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with a larger ad and land future customers!

Call 314/269-8810 or email andreajones@laduenews.com

for more information Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2012

81

The dish

Sticky Toffee Pudding A word to the wise. If you value the inside of your mouth, do not attempt to immediately devour the Schlafly Tap Room’s Sticky Toffee Pudding when it arrives at your table. It will undoubtedly be a challenge to look at and not touch this piping-hot, pillowy cake nestled in a pool of luscious toffee.

But once you’ve given it time to cool off, you’ll be rewarded with a rich dessert that has a distinct sweetness you can’t quite put your finger on. That’s because “it has a (expletive)-ton of dates,” according to the Tap Room’s chef, Andy White. And STP wouldn’t be complete without that silky toffee sauce that soaks into the cake the longer it sits. Another reason to exercise some patience.

Another friendly tip: Friends don’t let friends STP alone. This cake is enormous, so bring at least one friend to share it with. Pair this dessert with the Oatmeal Stout (get it on cask, if it’s available), and you’ll have yourself a true Schlafly experience.

Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., Downtown, schlafly.com Check out Michael’s monthly beer column, On The Shelf (p. 32).

photography by Jonathan Gayman

Contributor’s Pick

Michael Sweeney

APR AVAILABLE

%'&% ;,:6(

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2012 2;12*2

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Bommarito.7992.

8=" .7992. 9<$!"

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

AT THE BIG CORNER I-270 & N. LINDBERGH 661 Dunn Rd.

1

1-800-334-8903 # 314-731-2228 # 7447.,79 /60(;9 5( 5744 );,-(99 924(9 823+ 8784( 2.* 47-(.9( )428(9

Missouri’s Mi

.7992. .

Dealer!

14 Consecutive Years†

Convenient Saturday Service

*Sale prices include all rebates and incentives, with approved credit. Prior sales excluded. Special financing in lieu of rebates. With approved credit. **Low price guarantee we will better any advertised price. †Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration. Nissan North American, '98, '99, '00, '01, '02, '03, '04, '05, '06, '07, '08, '09, '10, '11 Calendar Year to Date results for Missouri. All sales end Aug. 30, 2012. See dealer for details.

www.bommarito.com