August 2013 Feast Magazine

feast tv goes behind the scenes

50 culinary experts pick

industry LEADERS STL FOOD FAVES

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

trendy summer treats

total SUGAR rush

feastSTL.com | august 2013 | FREE

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

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SLEEP. SMILE.

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

AUGUST 2013

from the staff

| 10 |

from the PUBLISHER

Feast 50 love fest.

| 12 | feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 26 | One on One

Edward Farrow on pleasing

palates at Panorama inside the

Saint Louis Art Museum.

| 28 |

the mix

Sail to the Caribbean with the Brooklynite cocktail.

| 30 | ON THE SHELF

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New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: Kimchi.

| 34 |

how to

Slinging beer at Busch Stadium.

| 36 | TECH SCHOOL

No cooking required: gin- soaked scallop ceviche.

| 38 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five ice pop molds to the test.

| 40 | Menu Options

Spice up summer picnics with braised Jerk chicken.

| 78 |

the last bite

Copy editor Andrea Mongler’s childhood favorites meet in a s’mores pizza.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of hand-spun cotton candy from sugar shack (P. 17)

BY Jennifer Silverberg Table of contents photography of Brussels sprouts from Niche (p. 55)

BY Jennifer Silverberg

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August 2013

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FOOD FAVES

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Inspired Food Culture

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Magazine Volume 4

| Issue 8 | August 2013

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville

All-Inclusive Luxury in the Caribbean Designed exclusively for adult travelers, The Royal Suites Turquesa by Palladium 6 in Punta Cana offers the best of two worlds: the privacy and personalized service of a boutique VIP resort, and unlimited access to the wide array of services available at any of the additional resorts located in the Palladium complex.

The Royal Suites Turquesa features three private restaurants for the exclusive use of its guests and fourteen additional restaurants throughout the complex. Enjoy an exquisite cuisine worthy of the most discerning palates. Guests can also choose from the great selection of drinks available at any of the 12 bars they’ll find around the complex.

Taste a huge variety of dishes from local to international recipes.

Enjoy theme restaurants serving wonderful cuisine such as: International, Asian, TexMex, Italian, Mediterranean, Spanish, Brazilian and Japanese.

Managing Editor, Print Content Liz Miller Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Valeria Turturro Klamm, Stephanie Witmer Contributing Writers Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Kyle Harsha, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Andrea Mongler Jeremy Nulik, Lucy Schwetye, Matt Seiter Michael Sweeney, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Special Thanks to Gary Bohn for lending his fine handwriting to this issue.

We’re sure his penmanship teacher would be proud.

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Comments publisher@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Apple exclusive non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis Round-trip airport/hotel transfers always included ■ World’s #1 Vacation Company to Punta Cana ■

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

■

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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August 2013

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publisher’s letter

FEAST EVENTS Jonathan Gayman

Feast In The Park Through September, 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County Parks

PHOTOGRAPHy by

This weekly festival gathers great mobile eats and popular local bands in four of St. Louis County’s most beautiful parks. Get the full schedule in the Feast Events section at feastSTL.com.

S.L.O.B.S. BBQ Tour Sun., Aug. 18; St. Louis Ice House and Beer Garden slobsbbq.com

This rotating barbecue competition takes place through November at various bars and restaurants in the St. Louis area. In the past three years, S.L.O.B.S. has raised more than $60,000 for various charities.

Whole Foods Market 3rd Annual GrassFed Beef Burger Cook Off Wed., Aug. 7; Whole Foods Market’s Brentwood location wholefoodsmarket.com

Local area chefs grill it up in the parking lot and compete to see who can make the best grass-fed beef burger. You sample and vote on the winners.

St. Louis Food Media Forum Aug. 9 to 11; The Culinary Institute of St. Louis foodmediaforum.com

The three-day conference will cover food writing, blogging, photography and more through a series of hands-on workshops and speakers, including a presentation by Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot from the Ideas In Food blog, book and culinary consulting business.

Mission: Tacos Mon., Aug. 19, 6:30pm; Roth Living $20, rothliving.com or RSVPstl@rothliving.com

The crew from Mission Taco Joint will host a class dedicated to authentic Mexican food and drink. You’ll learn how to make amazing salsas, tortillas, fillings and fresh-squeezed cocktails.

Washington County Home Grown Farm Tour and Field Dinner

Look for this icon. It tells you which articles are part of Feast TV!

Christy Augustin of Pint Size Bakery & Coffee is just one of the 50 food folks in this issue who weighed in with their favorite people, places and dishes. Turn to p. 52 to find out where she loves to shop for seasonal fruit for her bakery.

The Feast 50 is our annual tip of the hat to the best in St. Louis food and drink. This year, we reached out to 50 of the region’s top culinarians and asked them to wax poetic about what dishes they crave, who they most respect and where they choose to dine when they’re not in the kitchen. The result is a rich view of the St. Louis food world from the perspective of the people who know it best.

In going over all of the information for the issue, we realized that there were a few folks that were called out time and time again. Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse, Kevin Nashan of Sidney Street Cafe, Chris Bork of Blood & Sand, Gerard Craft of Craft Restaurants Ltd. and Qui Tran of Mai Lee were given near-universal nods for their contributions to the industry. As you flip through this issue, you’ll find that we paid special attention to these guys. For an intimate look behind the scenes with Craft, Nashan, Tran and Emerson, watch this month’s Feast TV at feastSTL.com or on ABC30 at 9:30am on Sun., Aug. 11.

What I love most about this issue is that chefs, bartenders, restaurant owners and brewers happily called out their peers for their accomplishments. This generosity of spirit pervades our culinary scene and is one of the keys to our city’s rising reputation as a culinary destination. Having covered the St. Louis restaurant scene since 1999, I can tell you from personal experience that the evolution we’ve experienced over the past decade is astounding, and it’s truly just the beginning.

ch Feast Wat TV

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

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Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Aug. 28, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Join Cat Neville in the kitchen and learn how to make Caribbean braised chicken.

Sushi & Sake Thu., Aug. 29, 6:30pm; prasino $50, prasino.com or 636.277.0202

Delve deep with a six-course menu featuring sake and sake cocktails. The evening will feature Japanese-style utensils and table set up and guests will be able to purchase the different sakes.

Forks & Corks Sat., Aug. 31, 3 to 10pm; Chesterfield Amphitheater

This free, upscale event will feature delicious cuisine from the finest area restaurants, a wide selection of wines, regional craft beers, artists and live music all day long.

2013 LouFest Sat., Sept. 7, and Sun., Sept. 8 loufest.com

This two-day festival features national and local bands, great food in the Feast-sponsored Nosh Pit, cool retail and a proactive greening effort.

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AUGUST 2013

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ONLINE CONTENT

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Dine Out

Dine In

Drink

Feast Events

Multimedia

The Magazine

Promotions

GIVEAWAY: Cochon 555’s national Heritage BBQ competition

is making a stop in St. Louis in August, and we’re giving away four tickets plus a chance to judge the event with publisher Cat Neville. Details at feastSTL.com/promotions.

MULTIMEDIA

FEAST TV: Inspired by this month’s Feast 50 (p. 39), four of St. Louis’ most-respected culinarians – Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse, Qui Tran of Mai Lee, Kevin Nashan (pictured) of Sidney Street Cafe and Gerard Craft of Craft Restaurants Ltd. – share stories on how they got to where they are today. Plus, publisher Cat Neville demos Sidney Street Cafe’s classic dumpling dish.

LOVE INSTAGRAM? Follow @feastmag to see what we’re eating and drinking while we’re out and about.

hungry FOR MORE? Like FEAST. facebook.com/feastSTL

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Watch our videos. youtube.com/FeastMagazine

thefeed

Out-of-State Adventures: What’s next for St. Louis’ drink scene? The Mix columnist Matt Seiter

(p. 24) reports on emerging trends from the world-renowned Tales of the Cocktail conference in New Orleans. Plus, contributor Andrew Mark Veety explores Austin’s food scene in a travelogue photo essay on everything from popular pizza joints to fine-dining establishments helmed by James Beard Award-winning chefs.

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AUGUST 2013

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dinin g

1405 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.241.4476 hiroasiankitchen.com

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AUGUST 2013

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Nowhere else in St. Louis will you find Meat Bone Tea on the menu. At Hiro Asian Kitchen, owner Bernie Lee is steering away from expected “pan-Asian” dishes and toward his own roots in Malaysia. In the Meat Bone Tea (penang bak kut teh), pork ribs and shiitake mushrooms are simmered in a fragrant, herbal broth until they’re utterly tender. A long, crunchy donut (char kwai) is served alongside to be dunked into the “tea.” Also on the menu is a selection of ramen. Our favorite is the signature Hiro version with fresh wheat noodles, pork belly and a long-cooked egg. Another can’t miss is the dim sum platter with three types of dumplings: shrimp, pork and a soup dumpling that spills savory broth across your palate when you pop it in your mouth. Sticky rice with Chinese sausage wrapped in lotus leaf, sole steamed with goji berries, Taipei-style chicken in a clay pot ... each dish at Hiro offers a unique taste of Asian cuisine right in the heart of Downtown St. Louis. – C.N.

Jonathan Gayman

hiro asian kitchen

FEAST FAVES

| where w e’re dr ink i ng

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sweetness and high acidity. Contrasts in the Beetnik are quite subtle, with a thoughtful, integrated flavor profile. It’s earthy yet fresh, with beet juice complementing the natural grassy mineral notes of the Margarita’s other main component, Milagro Silver Tequila. Agave nectar adds a restrained sweetness, allowing the freshly squeezed lime juice to shine. The end result is an elegant, slightly herbaceous, lighter-bodied cocktail that makes for a delicious pair with Atomic Cowboy’s sweet potato empanadas. Together they emphasize the similarities

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Inspired Food Culture

august 2013

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

tripel brasserie St. Louis was founded by the French and made famous by beer. Newly opened Tripel Brasserie, a French and Belgian restaurant and beer house, located in historic Lafayette Square, plays on both distinctions. Here, a cross section of culinary influences inform the food, while at the bar, extensive, well-curated cocktail, wine and beer selections complement the kitchen. Belgian cuisine, largely derivative of the German, French and Dutch, shines in pommes frites (fries served crispy on the outside, pillowy on the inside), several Flemish-style stews and mussels served in a variety of flavorful combinations. French-inspired dishes include escargot with bone marrow and veal stuffed with beef farce, while entrées bring the best of all borders: venison rumstek, filet mignon, house sausages and smoked pork and pork chops with roasted apple, just to name a few, served with your choice of sauce: béarnaise, au poivre or marchand de vin. Be sure to save room for rum baba, yeast cake soaked in rum sauce and served with dried fruit, for dessert. – L.M.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Jennifer Silverberg

1801 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.678.7787 tripelstl.com

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AUGUST 2013

FEAST FAVES

| foo d stuff

colorful pops

t he shel Don 2013–2014 season

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Ice pops are all the rage this summer – and for good reason. Made with fresh fruit, yogurt, honey and herbs, they offer indulgent, healthful alternatives to artificially sweetened frozen treats. Chill out with pops from these three local businesses in unexpected flavors such as cantaloupe with chocolate mint and blueberry-lemon. – L.M.

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FEAST FAVES

| the big idea

farmplicity J. Pollack Photography

written by Brandon Chuang

Photography by

Things aren’t supposed to work out this way in real life. The nerdy guy never gets the dream girl, the bench warmer never scores the winning touchdown and college kids certainly don’t launch successful startup companies in an entrepreneurship class. But that’s exactly what Drew Koch, Lauren Ortwein, Jolijt Tamanaha and Andrew Lin did in a classroom at Washington University this past spring. Koch, chief executive officer of Farmplicity, credits co-founder Tamanaha with the idea, which has since grown into a bona fide business. “The class was set up so you could come in with or without an idea,” Koch says. “Jolijt came in with an idea, and the three of us didn’t have one. Once she explained [it], we knew we wanted to be a part of it.” To put it plainly, Farmplicity is an online marketplace that connects chefs with local farmers, allowing them to easily purchase goods from farmers on the site with one easy click. The company has grown fast, already listing Elaia, Local Harvest Café and Winslow’s Home as clients – but there’s still one immediate goal in mind. “We’re raising money to get an office,” Koch says. “We’re currently working out of my living room.”

Farmplicity co-founders Drew Koch and Lauren Ortwein.

314.669.5286, farmplicity.com

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FEAST FAVES

| s hop-o- ma tic

sugar shack The era of neighborhood candy stores and soda shops is still alive in Kirkwood, where a visit to Sugar Shack spikes nostalgia even before stepping inside. Situated across the street from a charming gift shop and custard stand, the Shack, much like most of downtown Kirkwood, enchants with a sense of timelessness. Vintage candy cases line the shop’s perimeter, each filled with retro confections: rock candy, wax lips, candy sticks, Necco Wafers, jawbreakers, Bottle Caps and pearlescent gum balls are just a few of the treats glittering from behind the cases.

Owner Barbi Francis opened shop more than five years ago, and describes the store as an outlet for her love of children and vintage things, as well as a way to give back to the neighborhood she loves.

“The most fun part of the job is the children,” she says. “I love the curiosity. It’s absolutely rewarding. And being part of a neighborhood. It’s very fun to operate a business in a small town like this. To be part of something larger than yourself.”

On an average summer day the Shack is abuzz with wide-eyed children and parents thrilled to explore the extensive sweets selection. Two years ago Francis began making cotton candy inhouse, spinning fluffy candy clouds in a machine near the cash register. Today the shop offers 16 cotton candy flavors in classic and unexpected options such as root beer, cherry and cinnamon.

The shop also has a small soda counter serving phosphates, freezes and floats in a lengthy list of novelty flavors. “I’ve got things people can’t find anywhere else, and I like being known for that,” Francis says. “Some of the larger retailer stores have this candy seasonally, but people don’t have as much fun finding it there as they do here.”

– L.M.

151 W. Argonne Drive, Kirkwood, 314.966.0065 kirkwoodsugarshack.com

Three Can’t-Miss Candies and Confections | 1 | In the past six months, Francis began making treats called Pillow Pops in-house, which are oversized marshmallows coated in chocolate and sprinkled with different toppings. Flavors include lemon drop, peppermint, coconut, salted caramel, s’more and s’moreo. | 2 | One of the most popular treats at the Shack is made-toorder, hand-spun cotton candy. Several flavors are house-made, including cinnamon PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

and root beer. | 3 | In addition to its huge retro candy selection, the shop makes phosphates, freezes and floats. Phosphate soda flavors range from classic to creative, including egg cream, ginger-mint, ambrosia, orange dream and more. The float selection also offers tons of flavor options, such as fireball, cherry blossom and blue moon.

|1|

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|3| Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we ’re buying

culinary library

| 1 | Ultimate Cookies by Julia M. Usher, $24.99; Subterranean Books, 6275 Delmar Blvd., University City, subbooks.com | 2 | Rook Cooks: Simplicity at Its Finest by Lou Rook III, $35; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, 18

In the past few years a handful of St. Louis industry experts have released cookbooks and food and drink guides. These six standouts offer special insight into everything from muddling mean cocktails to learning about seasonal Missouri produce to cooking like one of St. Louis’ most acclaimed chefs. – L.M.

Richmond Heights, kitchenconservatory.com

| 3 | The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars: How We

Rewrote the Rules and Recipes One Cocktail at a Time by Matt Seiter, $24.99; Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., The Grove, sanctuariastl.com

| 4 | Missouri Harvest: A Guide to Growers and Producers in the Show-Me State by Maddie Earnest and Liz Fathman, $18; Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morganford Road, Tower Grove South, localharvestgrocery.com | 5 | European

Tarts: Divinely Doable Desserts with Little or No Baking by Helen S. Fletcher, $24.95; Left Bank Books, multiple locations, left-bank.com | 6 | Savor Missouri: River Hill Country Food and Wine

by Nina Furstenau, $24.95; amazon.com PHOTOGRAPHy by

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2013

Jonathan gayman

Simply the best Steaks and Seafood Kreis’ serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%.

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AUGUST 2013

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21

one on one

Edward Farrow

Executive Chef and General Manager Panorama at the Saint Louis Art Museum written by Jeremy Nulik | Photography by Jonathan Gayman

Chef Edward Farrow arrived in St. Louis this summer as the executive chef and general manager of Panorama, the new restaurant inside the Saint Louis Art Museum. The humble chef says hard work and blind luck are responsible for his success, which most recently included running the kitchen at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Ariz., which won Arizona Republic’s Award in 2012 for Best Museum Restaurant. Prior to his time in Arizona, Farrow cut his teeth working for acclaimed restaurants such as now-shuttered Gerard’s Place in Washington D.C. and The River Café in New York City.

Panorama opened on July 1, offering lunch and dinner menus, as well as brunch on Sundays. The restaurant overlooks Art Hill, presenting a grand tableau of Forest Park’s natural beauty – a stunning canvas on which to render his culinary talent.

What inspired you to become a chef?

I actually didn’t intend to. I went to the University of San Diego, mostly to play tennis, and worked in the cafeteria washing dishes. That is what got me in the kitchen.

One summer after graduation, I got a job in the kitchen at a La Jolla, Calif., touristy place [on the beach]. And once I found I had the talent for it, I studied at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. Then I ended up working with David Burke at The River Café. It was a brutal environment, but I just kept working hard and didn’t repeat mistakes. You’ve worked with many skilled chefs. Who influenced you most? Gerard Pangaud, who won two Michelin stars, taught me so much. I worked for him at Gerard’s Place in Washington, D.C. He taught me how to taste – hold something in my mouth and feel the acid, salt, sweet and sour. He analyzed how it made you feel, emotionally and physically.

If you know that, then you can adjust based on what you are trying to accomplish. It became more than just: is this good? Were you familiar with St. Louis or its food scene before moving here? My wife grew up in Kirkwood, so when we would visit family, we would go to Tony’s Downtown, Dominic’s on The Hill. I enjoyed the history of the immigrants and their cuisine. It always felt like the area was ripe for something.

Here is this place in the middle of ranchers, cheese makers and farmers. How would you describe Panorama? My background is in fine dining, so I want to bring that into the museum and allow for the art to inspire what we do. I want the color combinations to inspire what I put on the plate. I plan to keep the menu dynamic, and change it with micro-seasons or with art installations.

Panorama at the Saint Louis Art Museum One Fine Arts Drive Forest Park 314.655.5490 slam.org

We cook from scratch and source, as much as possible, from local places, and create interesting but recognizable food.

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AUGUST 2013

Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Edward Farrow.

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

23

the mix

Brooklynite Cocktail

Story and recipe by Matt Seiter Photography by Jonathan Gayman

The Brooklynite cocktail is simple yet complex. I stumbled across it in The Stork Club Bar Book, published in 1946. Its simplicity is what grabbed my attention.

Upon first look, the recipe appears to be a combination of two classics: the Daiquiri, with dark rum and honey instead of white rum and simple syrup, and the Bee’s Knees, with dark rum and lime juice in place of gin and lemon juice. All of these drinks share an ingredient base of syrup and citrus, and each offers astounding complexity.

The original recipe calls for Jamaican rum.

Typically, rums from Jamaica have a “funk” to them – one sip and you’ll never forget the flavor. The funk is its trademark, if you will.

The two brands I’ve tried are Smith & Cross and Appleton Estate. Smith & Cross is navystrength rum, packing 57 percent alcohol by volume. Its higher proof hides some of the flavors of the honey and citrus, so it's not the best to use in this drink. Appleton Estate is a more common brand, lower in proof, and works well in this drink.

Rums from another Caribbean island, Martinique, work quite well. These rums have a similar funk to them, as they are made with sugarcane juice and not molasses. Rum made with sugarcane juice is called rhum agricole, which translates to “cane juice rum,” whereas rum made with molasses is called rhum industriel, or industrial rum. Agricole rums have a more natural, grassy flavor. Sugarcane is a type of grass, and that flavor carries over into the spirit. Industrial rums have more of a sugary, synthetic flavor compared to agricole rums. You can use industrials in this recipe; it just won’t be the same. The funkiness of the agricole rums mix better with this drink’s blend of citrus and honey.

I prefer rum from Martinique for this libation, specifically the St. James brand.

Make sure to buy the aged one. It’s not as funky or strong as the Smith & Cross and it has a bit more flavor than Appleton Estate. If St. James is a little pricey, a great substitute is Angostura 7 Year Old Rum. It’s industrial rum from Trinidad, but has a flavor profile that works well in this recipe.

All About Rum As stated here, there are two types of rum – agricole and industriel.

Agricole rums are produced with sugar cane juice, while industriel rums are made with molasses.

colony. In those days, the French didn’t need to have manufactured sugar imported. They had alternative forms of sweetening agents in France, so they skipped the step of processing sugar in Martinique.

There are two areas that are known for making agricole – the Caribbean island of Martinique and Brazil. In Brazil, the common rum is called cachaça (ka-SHA-suh), and it’s the national spirit. Caipirinha, a popular Brazilian cocktail, is made with cachaça and fresh, muddled limes, and is as refreshing as a cocktail can get. In Martinique, the tradition of making rum with sugarcane juice stems back to its time as a French

Other Caribbean islands, however, did process sugar and sent it all over the world. These islands took the by-product of their processed sugar – molasses – and fermented it. They then distilled the fermented product.

A majority of this was then aged in barrels and bottled. This is industrial rum, which is still produced today – making another usable product from a by-product of a manufactured good.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

24

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2013

Brooklynite Serves | 1 | 4 1 1 1 1

Tbsp St. James Rhum Agricole Tbsp lime juice Tbsp honey syrup Tbsp water lime wedge for garnish

| Preparation | Combine rum, lime juice, syrup and water in a cocktail shaker, and shake for 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and garnish with a lime wedge.

Pairs well with

FIREFL IES

When the air gets thick and the shoes come off, there’s nothing more perfect than a crisp, citrusy bottle of Missouri Vidal. After all, it was made from grapes that ripened on summer nights just like this one.

Inspired Food Culture

missouriwine.org

AUGUST 2013

25

on the shelf

top august PICKS

beer

written by Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Brewery Ommegang’s Witte

St. George Spirits’ Terroir Gin

Style: Belgian-style Witbier (5.2% abv)

Provenance: Alameda, Calif. (45% abv)

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $5.49 (750-milliliter bottle) Pairings: Flaky white fish• Gruyère I find that a Belgian Wit is a great gateway beer for those interested in an introduction to craft beer. It’s light enough for your average light-lager drinker, but will grab them with a bit of citrus and coriander. While this is certainly a nice beginner brew, it’s still complex enough to be enjoyed by even the most snobby of beer drinkers.

2nd Shift Brewing’s Katy Style: Wood-aged (5.4% abv) Available At: Baileys’ Range, 920 Olive St., Downtown, baileysrange.com; $4 (9-oz draught) Pairings: Patty melt• Citrus salad

The beers that come out of 2nd Shift Brewing are never normal; frankly, the guy who brews the beer isn’t normal either. Maybe that’s why 2nd Shift creates some of the most unique beers in St. Louis. This Belgian-style brew is light and very refreshing, with a very dry-mouth feel and a slight bit of funk on the aroma.

Odell Brewing Co.’s Myrcenary Style: American Double IPA (9.3% abv)

AUGUST 2013

Available At: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $36.99 Try It: In a dry martini with Ransom Dry Vermouth

The St. George Spirits’ Terroir Gin is one of three gins produced by Lance Winters at St. George. Eleven botanicals, including bay laurel, coastal sage and Douglas fir, combine to make this intense yet silky smooth gin from a winter wheat base. Juniper is heavy on the nose and the tongue. Toasted coriander is a welcome addition, too. This might be my new favorite gin for a classic dry martini. Winters says this blend was inspired by hiking up Mount Tamalpais in Marin County, Calif. He describes the spirit as a “uniquely Californian gin with a real sense of place.”

Ransom Spirits’ American Dry Vermouth Provenance: Oregon (18.4% abv) Available At: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $34.99 Try It: In a martini

Tad Seestedt is best known for producing Ransom Old Tom Gin, but he also owns a winery. Vermouth seems like a natural addition. Oregon Pinot Blanc is the base for this delicious elixir, and then neutral grape brandy is added to increase the alcohol content. The botanicals used to aromatize and flavor this tasty, dry vermouth include wormwood, a must for any vermouth, but some of these flavoring agents are intriguing choices, including spearmint and vanilla bean. In the end, Seestedt has created full-bodied and satisfying dry vermouth.

Two Birds Artisan Spirits’ Greyling Gin

Available At: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road,

Provenance: Michigan (41% abv)

Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $9.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Grilled pork sausage• Limburger cheese

Available At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $24.99 Try It: With a nice tonic water, such as Fever-Tree or Q, and a squeeze of lime

Transitioning from a special release to regular offering hasn’t made this hoppy brew any less exceptional. With a delicately light malt body, this beer is designed to showcase hops. It’s also dangerously drinkable despite its 9.3 percent abv. If you like juicy, floral IPAs, this is going to be right up your alley.

feastSTL.com

written by Chad Michael George

The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Available At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

26

spirits

Michigan is becoming a hotbed for new craft distilleries. Two Birds is the latest to land on shelves with its Greyling Gin. Juniper is still a dominant force in the botanical mix, but Two Birds also adds a specific variety of Michigan-grown lavender. The juniper, lavender and other floral notes, including rose petal and a hint of violet, take the lead. On the palate, the lavender is complemented by other floral notes to create a well-rounded, floral, yet citrusy and spicy gin.

wine

written by Kyle Harsha

Kyle Harsha is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier with over 20 years’ experience in the food and wine industry. He is the St. Louis sales manager for Vintegrity Wines.

Yalumba “Y Series” Viognier 2012 Provenance: Southern Australia Available At: Grapevine Wines, 309 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewinesandspirits.com; $11.99 Pairings: Baked tilapia with pineapple relish• Chicken curry• Dried apricots

Opening this wine conjures the feeling of strolling through a fragrant flower garden. Produced by the oldest continuously operating, family-owned winery in Australia, this wine’s intense violet and honeysuckle notes are accompanied by juicy tropical fruit flavors for a robust, well-rounded flavor. The richness and texture call for pairing with fruits, nuts and cheeses.

Casal Garcia Vinho Verde Rosé NV Provenance: Portugal Available At: Bottle Cellars, 6039 Telegraph Road, Oakville, bottlecellars.com; $9.99 Pairings: Fresh strawberries• Crab cakes• Bacon

Don’t be intimidated by this wine’s exotic grape varieties – Vinhão, Azal and Borracal – as this is the perfect warmweather wine. Think of eating a bowl of fresh, perfectly ripe strawberries, and you will approximate this bottle’s flavor profile. It is slightly effervescent and comes from an area of Portugal known for refreshing sippers. Buy a case for August and enjoy the last flavors of summer before autumn eases in.

Tour Historic Cellars Taste Incredible Wines Gift Shop Wedding & Group Events Live Music: May - October (Saturdays & some Sundays) 1110 Stone Hill Hwy. Hermann, MO. 65041 800.909.9463 stonehillwinery.com

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Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya 2010 Provenance: Jumilla, Spain Available At: Straub’s-Webster Groves, 211 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, straubs.com; $12.69 Pairings: Grilled portabella mushrooms• Oxtail stew • Hard cheeses

This wine is made with grapes from completely ungrafted vines, some of which were planted as early as 1872. Due to its growing process, this wine has become something of a hidden gem for sommeliers and wine geeks in the past decade. It is made mostly with Monastrell grapes (known as Mourvèdre to the rest of the world) and a touch of Garnacha grapes (Grenache), unoaked. The earthy taste with notes of blueberry and inky color make this a great wine to sip with anything cooked on the grill.

Inspired Food Culture

august 2013

27

mystery shopper

Meet: Kimchi

story and recipe by Erik Jacobs Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

The overwhelming aroma that accompanies cracking open a jar of kimchi is fairly distinctive – as is the pungent, spicy, tangy flavor. This fermented food made with pickled cabbage and chiles is most often served as a side dish or condiment.

What is it?

As with any food that can trace its history back hundreds of years, kimchi has many variations. It is most often composed of a blend of Napa cabbage and daikon radish seasoned with garlic, ginger, chiles, green onions and other spices. The magic of the mixture happens during the fermentation process, where, traditionally, it's placed in clay pots and buried in shallow ground.

Good kimchi should retain the crunch of the cabbage, the heat of the peppers and the tang of the garlic and ginger.

What do I do with it?

Kimchi adds more than just robust texture and flavor to meals. Considered a true super food, kimchi is purported to contain cancer fighting properties. It is low in calories and rich in vitamins A, B and C, as well as beta carotene – one serving alone provides more than 50 percent of daily recommended amounts of vitamin C and beta carotene. Try eating kimchi straight out of the jar, or chopped up and served with a plate of veggies and fried rice. It acts as a flavor enhancer when added to soups, eggs and burgers, just as a good hot sauce does. Its similarity to sauerkraut also makes it a hot dog topping alternative for summer barbecues, or serve it as a simple side dish. Whatever the application, kimchi adds a spicy, crunchy kick.

Savory Kimchi and Pork Pot Stickers Kimchi and pork work wonderfully together, as these crispy, chewy pan-fried pot stickers prove. You might also be able to find inexpensive dumpling molds at Asian grocery stores. This speeds up the process considerably for those who are not familiar with folding dumplings.

1 cup cornstarch or flour 1 pkg gyoza wrappers* ¼

evenly. Cook remaining dumplings (or freeze).

Serve with green onions sprinkled on top.

Bring up sides of wrapper; press and pleat edges to seal. Transfer finished dumplings to baking sheet, and press down lightly to flatten.

Uncooked pot stickers can be frozen for future use. Place any remaining dumplings on the baking sheet in the freezer, and when frozen, transfer to an airtight bag. Defrosting isn't required, simply increase covered cooking time to 10 minutes.

cup vegetable oil

1 large egg, lightly beaten to seal the dumpling ½

beaten egg mixture and lightly brush lip of gyoza wrapper.

cup water

1 bunch green onions, chopped Yields | 48 pot stickers | 1 lb ground pork

| Preparation | In large bowl, combine pork with kimchi, ginger, garlic, sesame oil, egg and salt.

1 cup chopped kimchi 1 Tbsp minced fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, minced

Line baking sheet with parchment or wax paper, and sprinkle with ¼ cup cornstarch or flour.

1 Tbsp sesame oil 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 tsp flaked kosher salt or sea salt

28

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AUGUST 2013

Spoon 1 Tbsp kimchi filling onto center of each gyoza wrapper. Dip pastry brush into remaining

In nonstick sauté pan, over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp oil. Arrange half of dumplings in pan, with the pleated edge up. Cook over high heat until bottoms are lightly browned, 2 minutes. Add ½ cup water, cover and cook until filling is cooked through, 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until bottoms are well browned, 1 minute. Transfer to plate. Don’t crowd pan. This recipe will require multiple batches to cook all the pot stickers

*The filling for this recipe will make approximately 48 pot stickers. You might need more than one package of gyoza wrappers, depending on the brand. Note that gyoza are not the same as wonton skins. Gyoza wrappers are a bit thicker, normally round and stand up to frying better than wonton skins.

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

29

how to

Slinging Beers at Busch Stadium

written by Brandon Chuang Photography by Jonathan Gayman

“The heaviest I’ve ever carried is probably around 100 pounds.”

Regardless of the actual weight, Wilkins carries his burden with relative ease. Moving between aisles and sections effortlessly, I decide to stop following him a few times down the aisle so I can rest for a bit. When he comes back up, I ask him how he’s able to do this for an entire game.

“YOU PICK YOUR SPOTS,” he explains and proceeds to tell me about the lulls when no one’s buying beer (hint: it involves T-shirt cannons). It’s these times he’ll take a knee and rest.

Over the course of three innings he’s sold approximately 50 beers – a lot by most measures, but Wilkins assures me it’s a slow game. The most he’s ever sold during one game? Seventeen cases.

Four. Hundred. Beers.

You hear him before you see him, like a rattlesnake. But instead of a dry, warning clatter, it’s a booming tenor – one that timbers across the galleys and ping-pongs around until you feel completely enveloped in its noise. A few seconds later, the sound is followed by its source. Ray Wilkins has stampeded his way into the mainconcourse commissary of Busch Stadium, where I’ve been waiting for him, to find out how one sells beer at the ballpark.

It’s an interesting relationship, baseball and beer. Have you ever tried to watch a game on TV without one? It seems weird and unnatural, the epicurean equivalent of wondering if you closed the garage door before leaving for vacation.

Watch a baseball game in person without a beer, and that unease increases dramatically. As adults, we’ve intertwined the hoppy liquid into the fabric of what baseball is so that when we do go to the stadium, we don’t just want a beer, we need it. That’s exactly why Wilkins is here, to set everything right with the world by delivering you a cold dose of comfort.

Wilkins does not know what quiet is. A keg of a man, swaddled in the instantly recognizable neon yellow uniform of a stadium vendor, he alone is the reason keyboards have caps lock. “WHAT’S GOING ON BIG DOG,” he shouts at me as I stand no more than two feet away. He proceeds to offer me the first of what would be many fist bumps that evening. As I sit, amused by the scale of his entrance, Wilkins saddles his giant plastic container onto a stainlesssteel table to be refilled.

The beer vendor system at Busch Stadium is brilliant in its simplicity. Before the game, vendors are fronted their first two cases of beer. Once sold, they return to the commissary and pay for the first two cases, along with any additional beers they wish to purchase for resale. A team of cashiers, counters and stockers sits in the commissary to ensure every single bottle is accounted for. Not

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only does this create zero possibility for theft or abuse, it also makes slinging beer at Busch Stadium a near perfect meritocracy: You want to make money? Earn it.

but the one time I did count, I saw him fire off 11 in less than a minute.) As he continues up and down the rows, he is constantly stopping, not just to sell beer, but to say “hi” to his regulars.

“Earn it” in no way does justice for what Wilkins does when he leaves the commissary. He instantly enters selling mode, yelling and literally hooting and hollering to get peoples’ attention. “WHO’S ROLLING WITH THE BIG DOG?” he proclaims as he begins swimming through the aisles of red seats. Almost immediately –

“YOU TAKING CARE OF MY GIRL OVER THERE?” he asks a man and his wife at the end of a row.

And when he comes across a group of young boys, the fist bumps start flying. He then proceeds to beat his chest three times, throw a sideways peace sign and bark, “HOOT!”

“Hey, King, over here.”

While his driver’s license might read differently, Wilkins goes by “The King” – at least in Busch Stadium. When pressed as to how he got the nickname, he explains how he began calling Budweiser “The King” years ago. (“YOU GOT BUD LIGHT AND YOU GOT THE KING,” he’d say.) Over time, the name somehow got transferred onto him. So as The King goes up and down the aisles – and up and down he does go (each aisle is, at minimum, 20 steps one way) – he maintains his legacy: “WHO WANTS TO TREAT THEMSELVES TO THE KING?” As does every vendor at Busch Stadium, Wilkins has a designated area. The King’s kingdom is roughly defined as the space between the left field foul pole and the visitors’ dugout. It’s the same every game day. And because of this, Wilkins has a faithful crowd.

“This is the best beer guy in baseball,” one fan tells me.

“I only buy beer if it’s from The King,” says another.

To this, Wilkins guffaws and offers a fist bump.

“THAT’S MY DOG RIGHT THERE!” In fact, he’s always fist-bumping. (It didn’t occur to me until later that I should’ve kept count of just how often,

It’s Wilkins’ shtick – he’s got about 10 moves total. There’s the fist bump. The barking (hence, the “big dog” references). The “HOOTIE-HOOS!” But there’s also the random removal of beers from his ice chest so he can jokingly rub them along peoples’ faces (he later explains to me, “THEY LOVE IT WHEN I DO IT IN JULY WHEN IT’S HOT”). There’s also the question he asks when he comes across a gaggle of women: “IF YOU NEED PROTECTION, DO YOU WANT A LITTLE DOG OR A BIG DOG?” If someone tells him that they’ll take a beer the next time he comes around, his response is almost always, “I’LL GO SEE MY GIRLFRIENDS OVER IN THE NEXT SECTION, AND I’LL BE BACK.” On paper, Wilkins’ jokes might seem a bit oldfashioned, but more than anything else, he comes off as lovable, a favorite uncle who tells silly, if not slightly inappropriate, jokes. The proof is in the fans, laughing, buying and tipping all the while.

We’ve all witnessed the feats of strength beer vendors go through. Watching the Cardinals when the heat index hovers around 100 degrees is barely tolerable on its own, and that’s just sitting there. When you think of the details of this job, the rules in place – how they must kneel down every time they serve a beer so as not to block the view, how they’re not allowed to use the handrails to support their bins (also known as “riding the rails”) due to safety concerns, how they must card every single person who appears to be under the age of 30 – it’s insane. But Wilkins loves it.

The King has been a vendor since he was 13 years old. He has worked at two of the three Busch Stadiums, and during the off-season, he sells beer at the Edward Jones Dome, Scottrade Center and the Family Arena, just to name a few. The man honestly doesn’t want to do anything else.

“I WENT TO COLLEGE, GOT A FULL-TIME JOB, BUT IT WASN’T FOR ME,” he explains. “IT’S HERE. THE EXCITEMENT. THE PEOPLE. YOU GOTTA LOVE IT.” To see Wilkins sling beer is to see a man that completely and fully enjoys his work. As we run up and down, again and again (in four innings, I calculated, Wilkins must have run more than 800 stairs, which by some approximations is almost a 40-story building), Wilkins jokes with his fan friends about how photographer Jonathan Gayman and I are his bodyguards. When explaining to fans and stadium staff that we’re doing a piece on selling beer at the stadium with Wilkins, no one is surprised.

“He’s the best we have,” admits one of the section’s staff members.

But there is a serious side to Wilkins’ work. The large plastic ice chest he’s been lugging around, which is able to hold anywhere from two to three cases of beer, plus ice, is no joke. I ask Wilkins and his fellow beer vendors how much a full tub weighs. The answers come quick.

After a few more innings, I’m spent. Wilkins’ act is still going strong, hootie-hooting his way from foul pole to dugout, leaving a trail of laughter in his wake. When he finally comes back up to meet me and I tell him I think we’ve got enough for the piece, he throws out one final fist bump.

“Sixty pounds.”

“It was fun, wasn’t it?” he says in a voice reserved just for us. But before I could answer, he was gone.

“Seventy-five pounds.”

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Inspired Food Culture

august 2013

31

tech school

Gin-Soaked Scallop Ceviche

Story and recipe by Cassy Vires Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

In the three years I have written this column, we have talked about everything from fondant to flash frying, and every month I define, explain, explore and provide an application for different cooking techniques.

This month, however, I am unable to do so.

Ceviche is not a cooking technique, but rather a dish that requires a cooking technique I struggle to define. For the past six months I have been researching this topic. I have spoken to a dozen or so chefs across the country and referenced every culinary textbook I can get my hands on to no avail.

According to Harold McGee, author of the celebrated On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, ceviche is defined as “an ancient dish from the northern coast of South America, in which small cubes or slices of raw fish are ‘cooked’ by immersing them in citrus juice or another acidic liquid.”

No disrespect to Mr. McGee, but I take issue with a definition containing quotation marks around the word. The fact is, in order for something to be “cooked,” a heat source must be applied. Since ceviche isn’t prepared with applied heat, the term “cooked” is not correct.

The acidity from the marinade denatures the protein, which changes the appearance and texture, but also kills harmful bacteria. This leads me to believe the technique behind ceviche is actually denaturation, which occurs when stress is applied to a protein, causing the cells to go through a series of changes, loosening and tightening. At the most basic level, proteins are a series of coils, that when exposed to heat, unwind.

The acid in ceviche acts as a “heat source” and allows the denaturation to happen much more slowly than with applied heat, so the end product is extra tender and retains more natural flavor.

I still find fault with the definition, as all “cooked” foods experience denaturation. We don’t have language such as “fried,” “broiled” or “grilled” to describe the process of making ceviche. Saying it is “denatured” is somewhat too obvious, but better than saying it is “cooked.” I say we contact Harold McGee and suggest that ceviche be applied as both a dish and a cooking technique. I like the sound of “scallops prepared ceviche.” I think we might be onto something.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen and Table.

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Gin-Soaked Scallop Ceviche The acid required to make ceviche doesn’t have to be citrus juice. Gin, for example, has enough natural acid to properly denature proteins.

Serves | 4 | 4 large scallops 1 cup gin salt ¼ cup fresh dill 1 lemon, zested

| Preparation | Place scallops in a nonreactive container and cover in gin. Marinate for 10 to 15 minutes. Thinly slice scallops and fan out over chilled plate. Lightly season scallops with salt, and garnish with fresh dill and lemon zest. Serve cold.

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AUGUST 2013

33

gadget a-go-go

Ice Pop Molds

Tovolo Slide Pop Molds

Tovolo Garden Friends Bug Pops

PROS

PROS

The fun quotient for these simple icepop molds rocked off the charts. The smart design of tube, cap and pusher worked equally well on fruit juice, frozen-banana and applesauce pops.

No worries about a perfect release with this one, just push off. As an added bonus, it’s BPA-free, too.

These come in a very fun shape kids seem to love, with great definition in the molds, and three options for bug-inspired treats. They freeze two at a time, securely perched on a perky green leaf. I loved the wiggly stick that looks like a swallowed worm in clear juice pops. From frozen applesauce to yogurt pops, these bugs released easily and cleanly from their cocoons every time.

CONS

To fill the molds, you need two hands; one to hold it and the other to fill it.

That’s fine for juice pops, but to spoon in yogurt or bananas, you need help from a friend or a way to prop them up.

Finished pops are pretty big and a little difficult to eat. Altogether, these are small problems for an otherwise good pop mold. $4.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

CONS

Alas, the bugs are bottom-heavy creatures that seem large even for grown-up appetites. The juicier pops sometimes parted company with the stick before we finished; creamy pops seemed to hold better. When pops are this cute and clever, though, they’re worth the buy.

written by Pat Eby Photography by Jonathan Gayman

World Market 10-mold Popsicle Maker PROS

Two things stood out with this mold: It makes 10 pops at a time, and the pops are made with wooden Popsicle sticks.

This simple two-piece mold seemed efficient, compact and straightforward.

CONS

The tiny slots for the wooden sticks aren’t uniform in width. Some sticks slid in sideways and sunk into the bottom of the molds. Snapping the pink top off the frozen pops, sticks in place, took too much muscle and time.

Fruit juice pops came out drippy, and frozen yogurt pops lost shape in the pull to release them from the mold. $14.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com

Tovolo Star Pop Molds

MSC-International Monster Fun Pops

PROS

PROS

A high-performance favorite across all genres of pop-dom. Individual molds snap securely onto a star-shaped base for an easy fill and a mess-free trip to the freezer. Pops came out clean every time; even the chocolateyogurt-banana pops let loose without a whimper. They had good adhesion to the stick from first to last bite.

These can make one monster pop at a time, if you like. They don’t take up much space, even as they freeze. The bigger handle provides an easy grip, and the attached cup catches drips. It’s an easy mold to make and hold, and the plastic is free of BPA.

CONS

The star-shaped base and the height of the filled molds take up serious space on chill down. Once frozen, however, snap off the base and store flat in a bag.

This makes the problem only temporary. $12.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Richmond Heights, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

CONS

The molds don’t snap securely into the stands and can easily knock over.

These look remarkably like a dog toy, and in fact a manufacturer warning on the bottom of the box warns: “Keep away from pets.” During product testing, my dog was certainly intrigued by these molds. $9.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com

$12.99; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com

Che

ck o pag ut e

What to look for : Plastic Particulars. Choose BPA-free brands for minimal chemical

transfer from molds to treats. Look for sturdier, but not rigid, plastics that release pops easily. Dishwasher-safe plastics exist, but are not necessarily standard.

Pop Proportions. Stand-alone, single-pop molds save space in the freezer

but can also slink into nooks and crannies. Alternatively, large molds put a squeeze on available freezer space. Check out the stand footprint and popmold height before purchase to make sure it will fit nicely in your freezer.

Right Bite Size. Grown-ups can eat bigger ice pops, but some mold

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shapes and sizes aren’t made to make treats for toddlers and small children. Consider the age and appetite of the child before purchasing.

Easy Release. Study the mold with an eye on how pops will release once frozen. They should taper off – wide at the stick end and narrower at the first-lick end – no matter what the shape. Even simple paddle molds have a discreet taper. Avoid deep undercuts on specialty designs.

Less Mess. Molds with built-in catch cups at the base definitely reduce

errant drips. User error, however, can still generate grape ice-pop stains on T-shirts.

15!

Ready for a frozen treat right this second? Check out our round-up of the best locally made ice pops in Food Stuff.

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@STLKNIVES AUGUST 2013

35

menu options

SPICY CARIBBEAN CHICKEN

Story and recipe by Lucy Schwetye Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Break away from traditional summer cookout fare and serve spicy Caribbean-style cuisine at your next backyard barbecue. Jerk chicken can be marinated with wet or dry rubs, with a mix of intensely hot spices – almost always including allspice and Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers. To make this aromatic, zesty Caribbean braised chicken, we use a wet marinade, then sear and braise the meat.

Caribbean Braised Chicken Serves | 6 to 8 | Chicken

Braise

1 3- to 4-pound chicken ½ cup white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp dark rum ½ cup grapeseed oil 5 scallions, minced 3 -4 habanero peppers, chopped 5 cloves garlic, minced 3 -4 Tbsp thyme, chopped 1 Tbsp allspice, ground 2 Tbsp brown sugar 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, grated 1 Tbsp cinnamon 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 lime, juiced 1 orange, juiced

grapeseed oil for browning 2 red bell peppers, chopped 2 large Spanish onions, chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 2 cups white wine 2 cups chicken stock ¼ cup ketchup ¼ cup soy sauce salt and freshly ground black pepper Jasmine rice for serving cooked scallions, chopped cilantro, chopped

| Preparation - Chicken | Cut chicken into 6 to 10 pieces and place in large bowl. Combine

remaining ingredients in food processor or simply chop and mix together. Pour ¾ of mixture over chicken and marinade 1 to 24 hours. Reserve ¼ of marinade in the refrigerator.

| Preparation - Braise | Drain chicken and pat dry. Season lightly with salt and dredge in flour.

Set aside.

Heat large Dutch-oven pot over medium heat. Add grapeseed oil to heat until hot but not smoking.

Working in batches, cook chicken in hot pot until golden on all sides. Remove and repeat with more chicken. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan and burn the chicken. After all chicken has been browned, remove fat, leaving a few tablespoons in pot. Turn heat down to medium low.

To the fat, add bell pepper, onion, carrot and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally until softened.

Return heat to medium. Add white wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add chicken stock, ketchup and soy sauce, and stir to combine.

Add chicken back to pot. Cover and simmer 30 to 45 minutes, or until chicken is very tender and cooked through. Season to taste, and if necessary, add some reserved marinade.

Serve over Jasmine rice, topped with fresh scallions and cilantro.

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chef’s tips : Heat Advisory. Be careful not to burn chicken when searing it; some of

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Take Two. This dish is delicious served hot and fresh, but will still be tasty the next day. Serve leftovers in tacos, with cilantro and beans, for a Southwestern take.

l: Shrimp and Scallop Ce viche ○ Carib bean Braised Chicken ○ Bean s and Rice ○ Coco nut Milk, Corn and Citrus Sorbet ○

LEA r n M ORE :

In this month’s class,

you’ll learn how to braise chicken and fillet peppers properly. We’ll explor e how to keep the kitchen cool this sum mer by cooking without heat, ceviche style, and how to make sorbet without measuring.

get hands-on: Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., August 28, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

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photography credits, see p. 80

|

handwriting by Gary Bohn

in the St. Louis dining scene is remarkable. The encouragement and admiration local chefs, bartenders and industry experts have for one another pushes higher standards for everyone, elevating the city’s food culture. The shared goal among them is to contribute to a highly dynamic, collaborative and diverse food scene, one plate at a time.

When we began planning this, the third-annual Feast 50 issue that also marks our third anniversary, we went to 50 restaurant industry experts across the St. Louis area for their insight, stories and feelings on what makes the St. Louis food scene great. Overwhelmingly, without ego or hesitation, their answers reflected the talent of their peers and support of their customers – and of course, some fairly incredible local eats.

At the heart of the Feast 50 issue is a celebration of our city’s vibrant dining scene and the people and places that make it so magnificent. In this year’s issue we’re proud to pay tribute to a handful of these people and places and share what inspires and informs the work of these gifted culinarians.

Contact information for restaurants and businesses is listed on p. 80.

kevin lemp 4 Hands Brewing Co.

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Barrel aged cocktails at Eclipse.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis?

Riverbend’s crawfish and corn bisque – I could eat this every day for a year. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? A full slab of ribs from Bogart’s. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

Sandrina’s on Arsenal. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Justin Leszcz from YellowTree Farm.

What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene?

Passion and collaboration – a willingness to look outside of the traditional food box.

PICTURED RIGHT: Crawfish and corn bisque, Riverbend Restaurant & Bar

john perkins Entre

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Anything

by John Fausz at Olio. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? I think Ben Poremba at Elaia and Olio is doing some great stuff. Also, Chris Bork at Blood & Sand – love his food. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? I am currently addicted to the chicken kebab with rice from The Vine. I just slather it with the garlic sauce they have, and I am a happy man. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? There has been so much rapid growth and expansion in the past year. It has both pushed restaurants to get better, and also seems to have increased the public’s appetite for good food. It used to be “everyone had five restaurants,” as the saying goes. But it seems like that is not so much the case anymore.

zoe robinson pidgeon

Bar Les Frères, Bobo Noodle House, I Fratellini

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Craving the Donald pizza at Basso! Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Ben Poremba is such an inspiration to me. I can’t have a conversation with him that doesn’t get me artistically stimulated. He’s a genius and has brought so much to this city. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? I couldn’t be more excited about what’s happening here in restaurants. Yesterday, I was trying to make recommendations to some out-of-towners, and the list was insane. We are bursting with great options. I’m proud to be part of it. It also makes me want to push myself and my restaurants harder to do a great job. I think it’s contagious. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? For home, I like to shop at Straub’s. My husband is a real carnivore, and their butchers are masters.

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brian hardesty natasha bahrami Café Natasha

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I’m stuck on bourbon right now and discovered the Manhattans at Hendricks BBQ are out of this world, especially the High on the Hog. They claim the secret is in their smoked Vermouth. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Fresh French bread and garlic-doused escargot from Herbie’s Vintage 72. Add a glass of wine and romantic lighting and I’m in love.

If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where?

I crave the spring rolls from Banh Mi So#1 on Grand. There is just no other like it. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Definitely Mangia Italiano on S. Grand. Between their Apple Pie Moonshine and their calamari, my midnight cravings are always satisfied. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

My loyalties are to the Tower Grove Farmer’s Market and Local Harvest.

Watching Patrick and Jenny transform their vision of a healthier St. Louis into a reality has just been explosive.

Guerrilla Street Foods

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Blanton’s bourbon. Anywhere it’s sold. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Special beef noodle from Famous Szechuan Pavilion. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Mission Taco has been my go-to late night snack/drinks place lately. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? The Olive Farmer’s Market. Pork blood, fresh bay leaves and chicken feet.

justin leszcz YellowTree Farm

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Iced Kyoto drip at Sump; it brews for hours. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/ or nightcap? Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? The people who are eating the food. More people are eating good food. There is a demand for good restaurants. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Salume Beddu. Preserved lemons, olives.

PICTURED LEFT: Spring rolls, Banh Mi So#1

peter cohen Stringbean Coffee Co.

What’s your earliest or best food memory? The original Fitz’s Drive-In on Clayton. Sometimes I’d skip school and spend the day with Mom, and we’d inevitably end up at Fitz’s, eating burgers with root beer in the car. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kakao Chocolate continues to amaze me with new treats that satisfy my sweet tooth. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? So many. Five Star Burgers and fried cheese curds, also Winslow’s Home’s brisket sandwich. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Fitz’s root beer. I also really miss Famous-Barr’s French onion soup. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Josh Allen at Companion – great bread and I love the new ad campaign. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Freddie’s, Straub’s and Local Harvest are all carrying a lot of great local items.

PICTURED LEFT: Brisket sandwich, Winslow’s Home

Inspired Food Culture

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ron buechele Capitalist Pig

cary mcdowell Winslow’s Home

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kevin and his crew at Sidney Street Cafe always amaze me. Gerard/ Adam and team are doing so many different things well. Steve Gontram’s Hatch chile burger, Steve Caravelli’s octopus taco at Gringo – can’t wait to eat Josh Galliano’s whole menu at The Libertine. Oh yeah, and I spent an entire week recently stalking Ed and Jenny at ClevelandHeath – I think I had one of everything on the menu! (Ed, I still wake up in the middle of the night pining for goat!) My favorite regular joint is HotPot Smoothie Shop in Kirkwood. I get a brown rice bowl of goodness with great house-made super hot sauce. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? A fresh griddled triple cheeseburger from Carl’s Drive-In. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? I go to bed early these days, so my pantry. I’ve got a weakness for Bugles dipped in Nutella. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Not a fair question, but I’m lucky to work alongside Ann Lipton every day. That’s hard to beat. Matt McGuire is one of my closest friends, but I have an odd ability to separate that and admire him for the consummate professional he is. I get a kick out of watching him work – he inspires me. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I try to make the Schlafly Farmers’ Market every Wednesday.

I also learn a lot walking around Global Foods Market in Kirkwood – after visiting Eataly in New York City a couple months ago, I got a little overwhelmed. I’m spoiled working at Winslow’s Home, where people bring us stuff every day!

patrick horine Local Harvest Grocery

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Pupusas with fried plantains and black beans at Fritanga. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

Midnight snacks are rare these days, but for an end-of-the-night snack and drink, it’s Dressel’s Public House. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Josh Galliano. He is incredibly creative, and he puts a lot of thought into every component of every dish. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? Seasonal menus are becoming the norm, and sourcing from local farmers and ranchers is happening everywhere. It makes it easier for me to eat at more restaurants.

PICTURED RIGHT: Pupusas, Fritanga

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What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? My favorite drink in St. Louis was the Tree Huggin’ Bastard at DeMun Oyster Bar, but they took it off the menu. Luckily, they’ll still make it if you ask. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I can spend hours looking through the shelves of all the Asian groceries in St. Louis. I like to pick up something unidentifiable, take it back to the kitchen and see what happens.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Right now I love the sushi and pizza at Central Table Food Hall.

PICTURED RIGHT: Tree Huggin’ Bastard,

DeMun Oyster Bar

anthony devoti Five Bistro

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? We have been eating a lot of pho on our days off lately; Kim Ngan on Grand just south of Chippewa (same dude that owned Phuc Loi) has been my go-to Monday lunch. If it’s a special night out, Annie Gunn’s or Nashan’s joint. They are always generous, and the food is always really tasty.

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

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mike emerson | pappy’s smokehouse David Choi, Seoul Taco If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pappy’s Smokehouse ribs. Do I need to say more? Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Mike and John from Pappy’s Smokehouse.

To be day in, day out selling out is incredible. I love that they have such a simple menu, but do it with excellence, which makes people come back again and again. Myself included.

Justin Leszcz, YellowTree Farm If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pork from Pappy’s Smokehouse please.

Josh Galliano, The Libertine Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? An old cat once said, “A rising tide raises all ships.” I like to think of Mike Emerson as our local version of Danny Meyer.

Chris Sommers, Pi Pizzeria, Gringo Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Mike Emerson. Such a kind, generous and talented man!

Jim Fiala, The Crossing, Acero If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pappy’s ribs.

Gerard Craft, Craft Restaurants Ltd. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pappy’s ribs.

Best ribs in the country. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Mike Emerson. He seems to handle everything with a smile and a great deal of finesse.

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AUGUST 2013

45

josh allen Companion

What’s your earliest or best food memory? Stealing my sister’s Easy-Bake Oven and baking brownies with a 100watt light bulb. Dusted with powdered sugar, of course. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Hatch chile cheeseburger at Five Star Burgers. Whimsical, crunchy, creamy and downright delicious. And, yes, I’ll take (sweet potato) fries with that. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Oatmeal cream pies at Pint Size Bakery & Coffee. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market: A grilled sandwich from The Big Cheese and anything from Double Star Farms.

PICTURED RIGHT: Hatch chile cheeseburger,

Five Star Burgers

natasha kwan Frida’s Deli

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I am, hands down, a wine drinker and truly appreciate California Chardonnays. Since it’s now patio season, I prefer Pomme Café & Wine Bar and Vin de Set; both restaurants have great settings. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Chef Grace Dinsmoor is creating some beautiful dishes at Nico, and she has done an excellent job transforming their menu. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? I love Fork & Stix! We start with the Naam Prik Nuum (hot chiles) and move on to the fried rice and vegetable red curry with tofu.

Their food is so light compared to [other] Thai cuisine served in St. Louis. Also, the scallions on the fried rice have the most beautiful cut; they’re almost too pretty to eat. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Bar Les Frères. The ambiance is amazing! What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I like Extra Virgin: An Olive Ovation for imported mustards, vinegars and olive oils. Incorporating these ingredients into a dish can change it significantly. For instance, a Zinfandel vinegar over a dessert is divine, and mustard in a soup is quite amazing.

ben poremba Salume Beddu, Elaia and Olio

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? The pastry people.

First, my business partner Simone Faure. Out of control. Christy Augustin; Robert at Sidney Street Cafe – top notch!

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Lamb chops at Sameem. Empanadas from La Tropicana Market and Cafe. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Fried chicken from Goody Goody Diner. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Kevin Nashan. Collaborative, unrelenting in his pursuit for learning, generous. Zoe Pidgeon. Her sense of style, hospitality and attention to detail is unmatched in this town. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Global Foods Market. It’s an entertainment park for food lovers.

PICTURED RIGHT: Fried chicken,

Goody Goody Diner

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

47

eliott harris CHOPSHOPSTL, Central Table Food Hall

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? FernetBranca. My crew and I are usually drinking it on the truck. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Sunday is usually my only day off, and my 4-year-old twins always ask me if we can go for dim sum.

I get a lot of joy watching them eyeball the dim sum carts, scoping out their favorite dishes. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? I’ve relocated back and forth from St. Louis several times. It seems like Imo’s Pizza is my first taste of home while I’m unpacking moving boxes. I guess it’s a St. Louis thing. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? I’ve been going to Eat-Rite Diner for 20-plus years. The slinger is the only thing I’ve ever ordered. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? The St. Louis food scene has completely evolved over the past 15 years.

It seems like a lot of chefs have left, traveled the world, started a family and decided to bring their skills back to St. Louis.

adam tilford

Milagro Modern Mexican, Mission Taco Joint, Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis?

My favorite dish in St. Louis right now is the Khao Soi at Fork & Stix in The Loop.

It’s a Northern Thai soup with a curry and coconut milk broth, both soft and crispy egg noodles, pickled cabbage, some chiles and lime. You get your choice of protein, and I always go with tofu, as it tends to soak up the broth really well. I think I’ve been eating it at least once a week since they’ve opened! What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? As a Maplewood resident, the Wednesday farmers’ market at Schlafly Bottleworks is our go-to place. My wife Karen jogs down with our 1-year-old, Calista, and I get a chance to ride my long board. We always stock up on eggs, cheeses from Baetje Farms, and will always spend some time talking with our friend Justin of YellowTree Farm – and we’ll buy some stuff from him, too. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? Tacos, tacos and more tacos. St. Louis has really embraced the taco movement, whether it be from the hole-in-the-wall taquerias that are popping up everywhere to cool fusion places like Seoul Taco, and of course, the new California-inspired joints like Mission Taco and Gringo. And every taco-lover is passionate about who’s the best, what’s authentic, and why they know these things to be truth. Hopefully you’re reading this while devouring some tacos!

PICTURED RIGHT: Khao Soi, Fork & Stix

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

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nick miller dan brewer MOFU Soy

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Kombucha. I buy GT’s at Local Harvest Grocery. You can buy it other places, but Local Harvest’s always has more effervescence, which is one of the best parts. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Ricky Lewis at Quincy Street Bistro. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Tie between the nopales taco at Mission Taco Joint and the combo shawarma at The Vine on South Grand. I guess if I had to tie break, it would be the shawarma due to frequency of consumption. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Carl’s Drive-In triple cheeseburger with onion rings and root beer. Very special. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Getting a 20-year-old Oban from The Maryland House is common.

What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene?

What excites me about the St. Louis food scene is the opportunity to be somebody, to do something, to make your mark. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Schlafly Farmers’ Market is really awesome.

The Market Master, Brian, does a great job. I buy a lot of pantry items at Jay International Food Co. on South Grand.

PICTURED LEFT: Combo shawarma, The Vine

andy ayers Eat Here St. Louis What’s your earliest or best food memory? Unfortunately, my mom was of the school of culinary thought that held no vegetable to be properly cooked until the top of the finished product defined a horizontal plane in the bowl. Broccoli, asparagus, cauliflower – whatever it was must be cooked to an inch of its life and lay perfectly flat in presentation. Among my fondest food memories was a summer day in 1970 when my girlfriend at the time first stir-fried a bunch of garden-fresh veggies for me. It was an epiphany – I was like Saul on the road to Damascus! Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Many folks – that’s the great thing about eating in St. Louis now. The tattoo boys – Craft, Nashan, Willmann, Bork and their staffs are kicking butt.

Cassy Vires is rocking out, and she has only just begun. But I maintain enormous respect for the old guys, too. I return when I can to check, and sure enough, they are as vital as they were when we were all just starting out – Bill Cardwell, Lou Rook,

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Jimmy Voss. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The Butch Sandwich at J. Viviano & Sons with Missouri homegrown tomatoes on the side. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where?

Imo’s Pizza’s Deluxe. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? John Perkins, who is determined to do it his way.

And is succeeding. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? They keep opening new ones!

And some of them are even good! What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I love the Belleville Old Town Market. There are no hippy-dippy farmers at the Belleville market. It’s easy to park, and the growers have plenty of time to talk, which is unfortunate. More people should go there – but don’t tell anyone.

PICTURED LEFT: The Butch Sandwich, J. Viviano & Sons

Harvest

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Local craft beers are always my favorite. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Zwickel, Civil Life Brewing Co.’s ESB and Schlafly’s AIPA. Generally I have to order them in because, with three kids and a restaurant, I don’t get to go out too often to have a beer. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The tasting menu at Elaia. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Ted Drewes’ frozen custard (of course).

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? The Crow’s Nest (when I do have the opportunity to go out). Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Bill Cardwell, because he’s been a pillar of consistency. Just good-quality food for many, many years.

jamie komorek Trattoria Marcella

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Anything Matt Seiter is concocting I know will be great [at] Sanctuaria. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Always been a big fan of Steve Gontram. His Five Star Burgers is a big hit with my family. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Cannelloni appetizer followed by the beef tenderloin with foie gras and port wine demi at Tony’s. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? A St. Louis-style pizza from Biggie’s Restaurant & Bar. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? The Village Bar in Des Peres. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Vince Bommarito and Bill Cardwell. Longevity is a great measure of success and quality. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Bob’s Seafood and Global Foods Market.

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christy augustin Pint Size Bakery & Coffee

What’s your earliest or best food memory? My favorite foodie treats growing up were the rainbow sprinkle cookies from Mrs. Seibold’s Bake Shop in East Alton, Ill., and they absolutely are the inspiration behind the sprinkle cookies we sell everyday at Pint Size Bakery & Coffee. I loved the sweet vanilla cookie covered in the bright crunchy sprinkles.

I asked for them on every special occasion and will never forget the buttery smell of walking into the bakery with my mom and sister.

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? My go-to drink of summer has to involve ginger beer, so I am super lucky to have two options at my local [bar], The Royale Food & Spirits. I usually can’t decide between the Dark and Stormy or the Moscow Mule…so one of each it is! Reminds me of New Orleans and my favorite bar on earth, Molly’s at the Market. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? My husband and I have become regulars over the past year at Quincy Street Bistro.

Ricky Lewis makes the best burger in town and great all-around comfort food. Not to mention, his wife Elisa pours a great Patrón margarita.

But these days I’m torn between Quincy Street Bistro and Farmhaus. Kevin Willmann (and please don’t forget his amazing kitchen staff: Andrew, Jake, Jeff, Jamie, etc.) is passionate and thoughtful about his food, and I just love that we are both in the 109! Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Latenight dining is mostly a thing of the past for me and my bakers, but I tend to wander Downtown in those crazed moments that I am awake after midnight and Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar never disappoints. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? The St. Louis area is blessed with bountiful agriculture and sustainably raised animals, and right now the most exciting thing for me is to watch it unfold at Claverach Farm. Sam Hilmer and Joanna Duley are growing beautiful produce, raising delicious eggs, producing French-style Rosé, all the while hosting great events like Slow Food St. Louis’ Feast in the Field and their own monthly Sunday Suppers. If you haven’t been there, you are missing out. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Pint Size Bakery & Coffee loves Schlafly Farmers’ Market! The Wednesday evening hours are perfect for me to stop by and pick up the freshest fruit of the season – or the not so freshest. It’s great for us when a farmer has overripe or bruised fruit, as it is perfect for baking or preserving.

kerry soraci I Scream Cakes

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Since I work all the time, the only food I get to eat out is when I’m at Iron Age. I’m totally addicted to the Arabic fries with garlic aioli and the chicken fatoush from Ranoush, and the falafel and tabbouleh from Al-Tarboush Deli. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? I did, and when I came back I always had to go to Pho Grand for the bun that has the grilled pork and egg rolls (but I can’t remember its number!).

What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene?

Diversity. I love all of the different ethnic restaurants we have to choose from. And I love that we have really, really good restaurants ranging from the totally local and fresh, to the authentically exotic, from diners and food trucks to vegan eateries, five-star restaurants, barbecue, bakeries and great bars.

PICTURED TOP: Chicken fatoush, Ranoush PICTURED RIGHT: #1503, Pho Grand

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AUGUST 2013

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gerard craft | craft restaurants ltd.

Qui Tran, Mai Lee Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Gerard Craft. He’s got four distinctively different restaurants and they are all doing amazing food. That is an amazing feat.

It’s hard enough to do one well, he’s got four. It’s like he has a superhero team of chefs! Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? There are many awesome chefs killing it right now. You can get an incredible meal at a lot of places in town. I think chef Mateo Daughaday down at Taste is especially killing it right now. He’s got some amazing summer items – and the corn bread in pork fat? Get out of here!

Mike Emerson, Pappy’s Smokehouse Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? I’m sure my answer will not be unique. Gerard Craft has been killing it, and will continue to kill it.

Ed Heath, Cleveland-Heath Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Mateo Daughaday at Taste is the most underrated chef in St. Louis.

Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe Where do you go for a midnight snack and/ or nightcap? Taste.

Natasha Kwan, Frida’s Deli If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The watermelon radish bruschetta from Pastaria. I have that

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radish growing in my garden right now because it’s so delicious.

David Choi, Seoul Taco Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Taste. Pork-inspired dishes across the board – can’t go wrong there!

TJ Vytlacil, Blood & Sand If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The kale salad from Pastaria, at the moment, is something I crave all the time.

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? My favorite drink is a Negroni, and I order mine from Ted at Taste when I get away from work.

Brian Hardesty, Guerrilla Street Food Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Michael Petres, from Brasserie by Niche, has been and will be for the foreseeable future.

Chris Sommers, Pi Pizzeria, Gringo Where do you go for a midnight snack and/ or nightcap? We often end up at Taste. We love the food, the team and the fact we can walk home.

Christy Augustin, Pint Size Bakery & Coffee If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? If I weren’t living in St. Louis, I would dream about the beignets with prunes and fresh cheese at Brasserie by Niche.

Josh Allen, Companion Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Gerard Craft. Though he has certainly received his share of praise and attention, chef is dishing out outstanding, inventive and well-crafted meals at multiple venues with diverse staffs, across different culinary genres. And he does it with a tremendous amount of humility. The conversation about food in St. Louis has changed, in large part, because of what he’s doing every day.

Patrick Horine, Local Harvest Grocery Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Gerard Craft (still). The top two dishes I’ve had in St. Louis were made by him.

Adam Tilford, Milagro Modern Mexican, Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen, Mission Taco Joint

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Matthew ‘Mateo’ Daughaday at Taste in the Central West End. Everything he puts on a plate is spot-on. And I love that he’s been dabbling in some Mexicaninspired dishes, the barbacoa being my favorite, but he’s also been making some killer tacos.

Cassy Vires, Home Wine Kitchen, Table What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The chicken at Brasserie by Niche. Perfectly cooked, served with bread and jus. I love that dish. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where?

Barbacoa from Taste by Niche. Perfectly balanced.

PICTURED TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Pistachio ravioli from Pastaria, Brussels sprouts from Niche PICTURED BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT: Mussels with Thai chilies from Taste, roasted chicken from Brasserie by Niche

Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? I mean, who doesn’t look at Gerard and want to emulate his every move? He’s the goal.

Josh Poletti, The Libertine What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? My favorite cocktail in St. Louis is the In a Pickle at Taste. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The bolognese from Pastaria is ridiculous. Thank you, Brian Moxey.

Florian Kuplent, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Gerard Craft is definitely an inspiration – he is always working on new projects and his food is fantastic.

Jenny Cleveland, Cleveland-Heath What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Favorite drink is the Industry Sour from Taste. I really don’t even love Fernet-Branca...but with the lime and Chartreuse, it’s delicious. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Not to be over the top here, but Mateo Daughaday. His dishes knock our socks off every time.

Marc Del Pietro, The Block Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Matthew Daughaday. He worked with me for a while, and now he is killing it at Taste.

tj vytlacil Blood & Sand

What’s your earliest or best food memory? Growing up I ate a lot of meat and potatoes coming from a farm family. Not having a lot of money, my mother and I ate macaroni and cheese (the powdered cheese) with hot dogs.

Still one of my favorites. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? I think Ben from Elaia and Olio is killing it on many levels. His bakery, Olio, and Salume Beddu are all in my tops for St. Louis. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Cured meats from Salume Beddu with some bread and olive oil. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

A little cheese at 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar or a cold beer from Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? So much inspiration in St. Louis, but Matt McGuire has to be at the top of the list for me. Ted Kilgore will always inspire me.

John Perkins is a great source for creativity.

What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? That it can really go anywhere from here. If you look at the landscape there are very different restaurants thriving in St. Louis, and I hope to continue to see that diversity in the future. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Justin from YellowTree Farm is my go-to farmer. Just about everything he grows I will buy.

qui tran Mai Lee

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? The Libertine is doing a drink called the Fear and Loathing. It’s dark rum and cola with lemongrass dusted foam.

Amazing. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? It’s got to be a tie between Sidney Street Cafe and Niche. Those dinners had my wife and I blown away for days. One of the best dinners we’ve ever eaten. Please don’t make me choose! If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pappy’s Smokehouse and Bogart’s Smokehouse ribs. There is no one in the world that has better ribs! Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Taste, The Libertine, Bar Les Frères, Olio. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Wine Merchant, Ltd. Not only can you pick up amazing wines from the best staff. You can pick up amazing cheese, Jamón Ibérico, awesome barrelaged soy sauce, mustards, oils – I’ve even bought black truffles from there!

PICTURED RIGHT: Fear and Loathing,

The Libertine

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Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

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lou rook iii Annie Gunn’s

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Anthony Devoti at Five Bistro is cranking! What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? With my kids we don’t get out as much, but my favorite meal has to be the veal chop at Paul Manno’s Café with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon, caper and parsley – simple, just the way food is meant to be. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? If I were to relocate, I would probably miss the pastas and risottos at Tony’s. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? The food scene is incredible, fast paced and evolving rapidly. We have better distribution for our farmers. You have to be on your game, or you will be left behind. The food in the city is very diverse and really good, and it is getting better every day! What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? We work with Ben Roberts and Bob Lober a lot. Andy Ayers plays an intricate roll, as well. Plus anybody who calls or we meet that is all about local!

PICTURED LEFT: Veal chop, Paul Manno’s Cafe

jenny cleveland Cleveland-Heath What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? We don’t get out often enough to repeat places, because there are so many great places we’re still dying to try. I will say, though, that more often than not, if we can’t decide what to do, we end up staying in Edwardsville, and going to Wang Gang Asian Eats. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? This is out there, but morel mushrooms, prepared in any way, shape or form. I grew up hunting for them with my brother and grandpa, and they are still the ultimate treat. Maybe that’s not St. Louis enough, but I’ve never seen them any larger or fresher anywhere else I’ve lived. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? The Stagger Inn…Again. Black bean burger and housecut fries. Lots of ketchup. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you?

Ben Poremba. He’s taken on so much all at once and is doing such a great job at it.

I think I could sit in Olio every night and

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pick a different wine and fresh new dish, and have a great time. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? Our experience here has been so surprising. We walked into the St. Louis food scene strangers, not even sure if we’d find a fit here. Everyone we’ve encountered has been so kind and supportive. Everyone here seems to be of the mind set that forward movement in the restaurant scene is good for all involved. I can’t even begin to express our gratitude to everyone who has been so inclusive toward us, when our expectation was to be sort of strangers for a while, and it seems to continue to be the same – you hear a new name, and they’re embraced. It makes you feel great to be a part of the community here. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Greg Pusczek stops by once a week with a truckload of fresh produce for us to pick through.

PICTURED LEFT: Black bean burger and house-cut fries, The Stagger Inn...Again

mike johnson Sugarfire Smoke House

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? I had the best meal I’ve had in a long time in St. Louis at The Libertine the other day, so I’d say Josh Galliano.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Without a doubt, fried shrimp and fried green beans at the Playboy Cappuccino Lounge on North Broadway – it is mind blowing. The neighborhood is a bit intimidating, but they’ll make you feel at home inside. Ask for Cool, the maitre d’/bouncer. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The black bean burger from Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium on Big Bend. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Fallon’s Bar and Grill in Olivette – great pub food served late and awesome drinks.

Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Carolyn and Charlie Downs from Cyrano’s Café – the hardest working and nicest people I’ve ever worked with. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? I’m getting a little too excited about this new donut place going into Maplewood, Strange Donuts. What’s your goto specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Seafood City on Olive – pork belly, banana leaves, mangos, Mae Ploy chili sauce.

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AUGUST 2013

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kevin nashan | sidney street cafe

Josh Allen, Companion Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe. His generosity is unparalleled.

And no one ever has a negative thing to say about him. He seems to touch everyone in the industry in a very positive way – as a resource, as a procurement agent, as a willing set of hands and as an occasional drinking buddy. It’s tremendously inspiring to see someone performing at such a high level be so approachable, supportive and helpful.

Dan Brewer, MOFO Soy Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Kevin Nashan at Sidney Street Cafe. Every time I go into his kitchen he is geeking out on something new or some crazy ingredient.

His excitement about food and drive to always be learning and improving is infectious. Great guy.

Christy Augustin, Pint Size Bakery & Coffee Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? There are so many great, inspirational people in the St. Louis restaurant scene, but I would have to say I miss working on a daily basis with Chris Bolyard, chef de cuisine at Sidney Street Cafe. He is truly such a talented guy with an amazing ability to master everything he touches (including racing in triathlons, working crazy hours and starting a new family all at the same time). I can’t wait for people to see what he is capable of whenever he ventures out on his own. Kevin Nashan is of course the push behind much of what he does as he was for me during my time at Sidney Street Cafe.

Patrick Horine, Local Harvest Grocery If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The filet stuffed with crab with béarnaise sauce at Sidney Street Cafe.

Jim Fiala, The Crossing, Acero Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Chris Bolyard at Sidney Street Cafe. He’s humble, nice, creative and a good man.

Kevin Lemp, 4 Hands Brewing Co. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kevin Nashan – the best guy in and out of the kitchen.

Justin Leszcz, YellowTree Farm Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kevin Nashan. His passion really comes through in his food.

LEFT: Kevin

Nashan and chef de cuisine Chris Bolyard in the kitchen at Sidney Street. BELOW: Sidney Street’s menu changes with the seasons.

Combined here is Jonah crab, buttermilk panna cotta, charred corn, hush puppies, wheat berries and cucumber salsa.

Josh Galliano, The Libertine Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kevin Nashan – dedication, passion, commitment and a willingness to purchase food and spend money on food that you don’t see every day in St. Louis. Combine all of that with a great sense of community and where St. Louis is going as a culinary scene, and you have a badass chef.

Kevin Willmann, Farmhaus Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? If Kevin Nashan doesn’t inspire you, no one can. The guy’s like the freaking Energizer Bunny’s crazy cousin. I have no idea how deep his well of passion for what we do goes, but I’ve never seen the bottom in the seven years I’ve been privileged to call him a friend. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Bob Zugmaier, pastry chef at Sidney Street Cafe, is a badass.

Everyone knows it.

Eliott Harris, CHOPSHOPSTL, Central Table Food Hall

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Kevin Nashan is a longtime friend from back in college. Sidney Street Cafe is definitely my go-to spot when I have a night off and want to eat well and relax.

Nate Hereford, Niche Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Bob Zugmaier, pastry chef at Sidney Street Cafe. Last time I was in there, his flavors and textures stopped me dead in my tracks.

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Inspired Food Culture

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kevin nashan Sidney Street Cafe

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Too many to name, but Chris Bork is doing some fun stuff at Blood & Sand. Big props to Brian Moxey, who is running a beast of an operation at Pastaria. Really impressed with Cleveland-Heath. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The brisket at Winslow’s Home and Pappy’s Smokehouse ribs. They are simply that good. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? My friend Gerard Craft.

What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Love both the Schlafly Farmers’ Market and the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market.

Asparagus and strawberries.

marc del pietro The Block

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? A large latte from Northwest Coffee Roasting Co. on Laclede in the Central West End. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Ted Drewes’ Dutchman Delight.

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? If and when my wife and I go out, we usually will go to Sauce on the Side.

Laid-back, great people, great place. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I am going with the Webster Groves Farmers’ Market. They always have great produce, fruits and berries.

ed heath Cleveland-Heath

What’s your earliest or best food memory? My earliest memory is looking in my mom’s cupboard and deciding to cook with her miscellaneous canned goods and vegetables. I was 16, and bought a cookbook called Southern Cooking.

For a year I cooked everything out of it and loved it. What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Olio has a fantastic cocktail and white wine list. I go there religiously for great drinks. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The drunken noodle at Wang Gang Asian Eats. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Pizza at Black Thorn Pub. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/ or nightcap? The Stagger Inn…Again. It is open late, serves a great veggie burger and has the best red-bearded bartender this side of the Mississippi. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Cassy Vires and the Home Wine Kitchen crew. Gerard with his crew.

PICTURED RIGHT: The drunken noodle,

Wang Gang Asian Eats

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wendy and paul hamilton Eleven Eleven Mississippi, PW Pizza, Moulin, Vin de Set

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Any beer from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. at their beer garden or St. James Podium Series Norton 42 at St. James Winery. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Jonathan Dreja at Franco. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The Egg Raviolo at Acero. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Lamb shank over bucatini pasta at Michael’s Bar & Grill on Manchester. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

Dulany’s Grille & Pub – chicken wings and rib-eye sandwich. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Rich LoRusso for his passion and professionalism to the hospitality industry. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Rain Crow Ranch, which is 100 percent grass-fed, certified-organic beef from southern Missouri. We’re buying all sorts of cuts: rib-eye, flank, hamburger, fillet, and we’re using their meat to make our own beef jerky for a tasty snack.

PICTURED RIGHT: Chicken wings,

Dulany’s Grille & Pub

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Inspired Food Culture

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vince bommarito jr.

Tony’s

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I had a Manhattan at Olio on my way home from work a couple of months ago and have been trying to get back to have another ever since.

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Brennan’s in the Central West End. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? I can get inspired by a good taco, but Bill Cardwell, Lou Rook, Kevin Nashan, Cassy Vires and, of course, my dad are inspirational to me. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Jay International Food Co. I discovered I like Indian food recently. I have always gone there for other Asian ingredients, but now I go there for mango powder and garam masala.

stanley browne and arlene maminta-browne Robust Wine Bar

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? From Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen to Milagro Modern Mexican to Mission Taco, Jason Tilford’s modern Mexican mixes are perfect for casual dining. He seems to know exactly what people want in terms of the current casual food trends. We can’t resist the street tacos: cochinita pibil and, of course, the Baja fish. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

I am in love with Bar Les Frères right now. Everything about it speaks to me.

It’s cozy and modern French chic. A glass of Champagne tops off my night and, if I’m lucky, a snack of cheese soufflé.

Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Zoe Robinson Pidgeon. She is a matriarch in the St. Louis restaurant scene and continues to stay strong and inventive amidst current trends. She has such good pulse on the market. From concept to menu to design and building strong teams, she knows this business. Zoe has a flair about her; she’s a class act. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? It’s exciting to see that the St. Louis food community continues to grow in cultural diversity. I think it’s great that the food scene is so much more ethnic and that people are so supportive. Today there are Afghan, Middle-Eastern, Korean and Nicaraguan restaurants, and there are even Filipino-inspired food trucks.

It’s changed a lot since [Stanley] moved here from Europe 20 years ago. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I love Global Foods Market in Kirkwood. I can get all the ingredients I need for Asian curries; hard-to-find fresh produce like pomelo, longanisa (Filipino sausages), Spanish sardines and all of Stanley’s favorite childhood English imported biscuits and chocolates. It’s the store that makes my whole family happy.

PICTURED RIGHT: Cochinita pibil and

Baja fish street tacos, Mission Taco Joint

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AUGUST 2013

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nate hereford Niche

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Fork & Stix has blown me away every time I’ve been in. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Cary McDowell of Winslow’s Home. He is just a rock. A guy who has seen so much, and you know, his viewpoint is so inspiring and refreshing. He’s a pretty real dude. I love that. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? The next generation of talent that is starting to ooze out from the current scene. We are all doing great stuff, and I can’t imagine where it’s gonna be five years from now. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? This might not count, but I love Dragon Trading-US on Woodson. I just roam their huge warehouse looking through all their restaurant equipment.

I literally get lost in there for hours. I love Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, too; however, I don’t make it there as much as I want.

josh galliano The Libertine

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Malted butterscotch from Crown Candy Kitchen. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Smoked chicken wings from Bogart’s Smokehouse. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Cheese plate at the downtown Robust Wine Bar. Plus a good glass of wine.

What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Wenneman Meat Co., in St. Libory, Ill. Not only do they supply a lot of local meats, but they also have a good beer selection that is somewhat hard to find in my neck of the woods.

PICTURED RIGHT: Malted butterscotch shake,

Crown Candy Kitchen.

matt mcguire Central Table Food Hall

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Lately we’ve been making it to Olio for Ameztoi Txakolina Rosé, an absolutely stunning spring/summer wine – piercingly crisp and refreshing. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Cary McDowell at Winslow’s Home. He cooks everything I want to eat: breakfast (the best pancakes ever), lunch (anything) and dinner (perfectly prepared walleye). The most soulful cooking in our town – and it’s all happening in an unpretentious, perfect, little world created by Ann Lipton.

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Olio and Bar Les Frères are two incredibly compelling places right now; both have their own sort of magic. Who in the

St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you?

Cary McDowell. Not only do I admire him as a chef, but also as a person who understands what it means to make food for a living and what our role is in feeding people – that food must provide more than simple sustenance. He also understands the humility and humbleness required to serve people for a living, to make them happy through giving of yourself; the generosity of this act is often lost on many folks in our industry. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Parker’s Table. Anything Jon Parker is excited about is going to be great – whether food or drink, his passion for finding small production, artisanal producers is unparalleled in our town.

tom schmidt Franco, Nico What’s your earliest or best food memory? I fell in love with my future wife while eating fried tarantulas in Cambodia. I don’t think that’s when she reciprocated that feeling, but eating crispy arachnids tends to screw with one’s heart. I don’t hold it against her.

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? It’s called a Bolito. It’s Bud Light, red wine and Sprite. Serve it in a martini glass with a lime twist (not wedge). Trish at Sandrina’s made it for me once upon insistent request. I don’t think she’s spoken to me since. Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? There is a lot of talent in this town.

Sometimes it seems that whomever you choose to pay attention to is the one killing it. That being said, the correct answer is Phatch’s mom and brother at Fork & Stix. Fermented pork sausage.

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What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The breakfast burrito at The Mud House. This would be my answer three years ago or two years from now. I caught Casey once tagging my order as “burrito head” for the table delivery moniker. I was neither flattered nor offended. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The white anchovy salad from The Good Pie. As it turns out, I haven’t relocated, but I want this dish back. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Dave Bailey. So let’s see: talent, hard work, success, taste, intelligence, great beer, scooter, humility, cool spaces…How long do these segments go on for?

PICTURED RIGHT: The breakfast burrito,

The Mud House

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Inspired Food Culture

august 2013

67

qui tran | mai lee

guess which chef loves which dish!

Adam Tilford, Milagro Modern Mexican, Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen, Mission Taco Joint

Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Qui Tran, chef and owner of Mai Lee, is simply amazing. I swear, that guy is everywhere and knows everyone. Every time I go to Mai Lee, he’s there. Most of the time when I go somewhere else, he’s also there. I don’t know how he does it. It’s like he’s Superman or something. And I’ve never seen him without that amazing smile brightening up the room. Always positive, always genuine, a true leader in the St. Louis culinary scene.

Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The chicken pho and spinach at Mai Lee. I could eat that every day of my life!

David Choi, Seoul Taco What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Pho Tai at Mai Lee is my go-to meal. Crispy spring rolls and lemon pepper calamari are some of the most flavorful dishes in St. Louis.

Stanley Browne and Arlene MamintaBrowne, Robust Wine Bar What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Seafood charred rice at Mai Lee. We cannot stop eating it. We honestly go at least once every two weeks as a family, and we always order it. It’s the perfect blend of Asian spices and lots of seafood and vegetables over deliciously charred rice.

Always tempted to lick the bowl clean.

Josh Galliano, The Libertine What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Gingered beef salad from Mai Lee. Josh Poletti, The Libertine What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? I crave Mai Lee every day…I wish I could go there more often.

They need to be open on Monday.

Marc Del Pietro, The Block What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Mai Lee’s soups.

Whichever one Qui brings out. They all are awesome.

Brian Moxey, Pastaria Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Qui Tran at Mai Lee. Cary McDowell, Winslow’s Home What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Salted fish fried rice at Mai Lee, with a little extra fish sauce.

Chris Sommers, Pi Pizzeria, Gringo What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Pho-getaboutit!

Pho Ga at Mai Lee! Christy Augustin, Pint Size Bakery & Coffee What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? I constantly crave the salt and pepper calamari from Mai Lee. It doesn’t hurt that I get to chat with Qui. His smile just makes my day.

Gerard Craft, Craft Restaurants Ltd. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Was recently in Mai Lee, and Qui sent out some type of beef ceviche. It was perfect.

feastSTL.com

AUGUST 2013

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Nate Hereford, Niche If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Salt and pepper soft shell crab at Mai Lee. Qui Tran is a magician.

Matt McGuire, Central Table Food Hall If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? No. 147 from Mai Lee...clear noodles stir fried with mixed vegetables. I could eat it every single day, and I often do. Straightforward, clean and completely satisfying, like all of the food there.

I simply need to eat there on a regular basis.

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Inspired Food Culture

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| 1 | Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe, #158: Water spinach stir-fried with garlic | 2 | Gerard Craft, Craft Restaurants Ltd., #90: Vietnamese-style beef ceviche | 3 | Nate Hereford, Niche, #138: Crispy salt

and pepper soft-shell crab | 4 | Stanley Browne and Arlene Maminta-Browne, Robust Wine Bar, Special: Seafood-charred rice | 5 | Christy Augustin, Pint Size Bakery & Coffee, #133: Crispy salt and pepper calarami | 6 | Matt McGuire, Central Table Food Hall, #147: Clear noodles stir-fried with mixed vegetables | 7 | David Choi, Seoul Taco, #46: Crispy spring rolls | 8 | Chris Sommers, Pi Pizzeria, #11: Pho Ga

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florian kuplent Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

eric scholle Farmhaus

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Gioia’s Deli is consistently making some of the best sandwiches in town. I probably get more requests from my kitchen for Gioia’s as staff meal than any other place in town. You have to love walking in this place and seeing all the smiling faces and Alex behind the counter chatting with every customer who comes in.

If you go during their busy lunch hours, you’re going to find a line of hungry people packed into the place awaiting the magical hot salami sandwich. They make this delicious lunch meat from pig heads and all kinds of other good stuff, which is awesome because I’m not really sure if most of the customers actually know the “adventurous” stuff they are eating. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Baumann’s Fine Meats. Sundays are typically the day we are off [at Farmhaus] and I can spend some time actually cooking for myself. That’s when I head to Baumann’s on Manchester. When I walk in this small, familyrun operation, I feel like I’ve stepped back in time a little bit. I watch the way they treat their customers, always asking what they’ve been up to and how their families are. You can tell they truly care about everyone who walks in the door. And they always ask the right questions while helping customers pick out meat, guiding them towards the best option for each person, which usually means the cut of meat they are the least likely to screw up! And when it’s my turn to step up to the counter I get to talk shop with Charlie for a bit about what we are cooking and what techniques we have been using lately. I grab a big chunk of pork shoulder for tacos or flank steak for the grill, and I’m on my way. I always leave there in a good mood, and I’m consistently looking forward to the next Sunday that I have a chance to stop by.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Any sandwich from Blues City Deli. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? The Hawaiian concrete from Ted Drewes. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? Having grown up in Europe, it is very exciting to live in a city that offers foods from literally all over the world. That includes restaurants, but also grocers, butchers, bakers, etc. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I love going to Global Foods Market in Kirkwood – they have a huge selection of German foods that I buy to prepare dishes that I enjoyed growing up.

PICTURED RIGHT: Hawaiian concrete, Ted Drewes

Frozen Custard

cassy vires Home Wine Kitchen, Table

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Ed Heath. I have huge love for this guy. He has such talent, but is so incredibly humble and gracious. Close second would be Chris Bork from Blood & Sand. His dishes are so unique and creative. I mean, he put granola on short ribs! Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

Where don’t I go? That is the only time I get to eat out! Taste, Sanctuaria, Diablitos Cantina, Mission Taco, Gringo, Pi Pizzeria. We have some awesome late-night eats in this city! What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? I can’t tell you the last time I was in a store! I guess I would have to say Vom Fass. We get a lot of oils and vinegar from them to use at the restaurant. Great product.

vince valenza Blues City Deli What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it?

Chocolate malt from Crown Candy Kitchen.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? I’m always craving pizza. As far as my favorite, I like Pizza-A-Go-Go in South City. They keep it really simple and make a really good product. It’s kind of in between St. Louisstyle and New York City-style. Saullo’s Pizzeria in North County, too. Mr. Saullo is 89 years old, still making pizza with his grandson in Spanish Lake. Really good pizza, St. Louis-style. I call it North Countystyle. It’s his life. He uses fresh ingredients and makes great pizza. I usually get mine with sausage, pepperoni and bacon.

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Usually BB’s Jazz,

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Blues and Soups. For a nightcap I get a beer. I like their sweet potato fries. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you?

The guys who trained me are Joe and Tom Alagna in St. Charles. I trained under them, and they helped me learn to love food. They own Fratelli’s Ristorante. They’re the ones who got me going on it. I get the chicken piccata at Fratelli’s. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? DiGregorio’s Market on The Hill. Some of their cheeses, olive salads, salami products, that kind of thing. I buy some stuff from them for the Deli. I go down there more for my family. J. Viviano & Sons on The Hill, too. I go there for cheeses, spices, Italian meats, that kind of thing.

PICTURED RIGHT: Sausage, pepperoni and

bacon pizza, Saullo’s Pizzeria

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Mon 10-8 • Tue-Thur 11-7 • Fri 10-8 • Sat 10-6 • Sun 12-6 Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

71

david choi Seoul Taco

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I love the sake selection at Takaya New Asian and Tani Sushi Bistro. Eric Heckman does a great job bringing new sake in that you can’t get anywhere else in St. Louis. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Sushi Tatsu in Fairview Heights. Awesome sushi, but I rarely get it because it has a second menu of Koreanized Chinese food (like the Chinese food in America). The sushi chef owned a Chinese restaurant in Seoul, Korea, before moving to the states and has the best black bean paste noodles called Ja Jjang Myun.

Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Taste. Or Benton Park Cafe. I get my eggs Benedict Oscar-style with crab. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? East East Oriental Grocery Store on Olive. They just opened a Korean café inside, which has some of my favorite comfort foods.

PICTURED RIGHT: Eggs Benedict Oscar-style,

Benton Park Cafe

mike emerson Pappy’s Smokehouse

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I like good vodka on the rocks, and all my friends in the business know how to make that! What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Any meal I get to share with Kevin Nashan and Qui Tran is my favorite meal. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s

kevin willmann Farmhaus

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Busch, from the icy depths of the cooler in the back of my truck, shared with the people I love. What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Oyster bread from Riverbend Restaurant & Bar. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? Bogart’s Smokehouse ribs. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? Everyone cares about each other. It’s something we all take for granted. We grow quicker and with a better voice when we look out for each other.

I believe it is unique to our scene, and it’s easy to be proud of. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Grandpa’s Berry Farm on Sand Road in Edwardsville. Bob and Mary Craft are the highlight of my week right now.

They are the best of people who think about food the right way. [In June I buy] strawberries.

[In August] it will be blackberries. In the winter, Bob will likely be trying out some more heritage hogs for us to drool over.

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the one dish you would want back, and from where? Toasted ravioli from Trattoria Marcella. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? The list is long, but I’m gonna put Kevin Willmann at the top of this list.

The man follows his passions 24/7.

vito racanelli Mad Tomato

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? My favorite drink is a chocolatestrawberry shake from Ted Drewes.

Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? It’s nice to see Josh Galliano back in a restaurant.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Wonton noodle soup with barbecue pork from LuLu Seafood & Dim Sum. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? I would miss the slinger from Eat-Rite Diner. Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Anthony Bommarito Sr. inspires me. He is so knowledgeable and always has great wisdom and insight. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? DiGregorio’s on The Hill.

They have everything I’m looking for, and if they don’t, they will get it.

PICTURED RIGHT: Slinger, Eat-Rite Diner

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FEAST FAVE • Pork Porterhouse. Rensing’s Porterhouse pork chop, cheddar jalapeno bread pudding, green beans, sunny side up egg PATIO NOW OPEN! Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville • 618.307.4830 Inspired Food Culture

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chris bork | blood & sand

Steve Gontram, Five Star Burgers Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Anything and everything Chris Bork touches turns to gold. His cooking is flat-out delicious, and he deserves all of the praise he gets and then some.

Arlene Maminta-Browne, Robust Wine Bar What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Sin Is In from Blood & Sand. The blend of Plymouth Gin, Lillet Rosé, citrus juices and lavender bitters is so refreshing. It tastes like summer.

Justin Leszcz, YellowTree Farm Who in the St. Louis restaurant scene inspires you? Chris Bork inspires me. He’s a badass.

Cassy Vires, Home Wine Kitchen, Table What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I love me some whiskey, and the Blood & Famine at Blood & Sand is the first thing I order when I sit down.

Jim Fiala, The Crossing, Acero Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? No doubt about it, Chris Bork is one of the most creative chefs in town and he is cooking delicious food.

Anthony Devoti, Five Bistro Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Chris Bork. He’s a nice fella, killer cook.

TOP: Grilled carrots,

grapefruit pickled ginger, chives and gooseberries at Blood & Sand. ABOVE AND RIGHT: Blood & Sand chef Chris Bork.

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Belts for everyone!

• Made to order • sized to fit

S ta r t i n g at $ 3 0 S O L E S U r V i V O r L E at H E r 25 East Main St. Downtown Belleville 618.234.0214 solesur vivorleather.com

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Looking for a festive venue to host a holiday party to remember? Peabody Opera House would like to present a special gift of a 15% discount when you book your holiday party valid now through September 15th, 2013. Along with the special pricing, Levy Restaurants has included a specialized holiday cocktail within your Premium Bar Package and a complimentary appetizer to complete the offer.

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Contact Special Events Manager Angie Carr at acarr@peabodyoperahouse.com

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Saturday, August 24th 1.5 miles North of I-70 on Hwy 79

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Tue-Sat 10-5 • Sun 12-4 • 1057 Hwy 79, St. Peters, MO (636) 278-4445 • www.omasbarn.com • LisaHagemann

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SLOBSBBQ.com Inspired Food Culture

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steve gontram Five Star Burgers What’s your earliest or best food memory? When I was probably 6 or so, I put together a menu for a restaurant called Snoopy’s. I set up a dining room in our basement out of a card table and chairs, and enlisted my brother as a bus boy. I then surprised my parents with dinner for two.

Never mind that I had secretly 86’d every item, and no matter what they ordered, they were getting bowls of cereal – or was it water? I still have that menu, and no, selling a $1.29 pork chop dinner complete with all the fixings would not have made today’s investors too happy. What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? I’m really not the best person for this question. The whole “mixology” thing is largely lost on me. Give me my Rye Manhattan perfect on the rocks, and I’m a happy camper.

What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? The tasting menu at Farmhaus – oops, I meant ordering one of everything on the menu at Farmhaus. My favorite meal was our anniversary dinner at Farmhaus when my wife and I literally ordered the whole menu. Each item from the menu, in order,

was sent to our table. If you were to ever relocate from St. Louis, what’s the one dish you would want back, and from where? I would really miss Ted Drewes.

Who would get me my beloved blueberry concretes? Simply reading this question makes me wonder how I ever get through winter. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? In my younger days there were the usual stops – Eat-Rite Diner, Courtesy Diner, Irv’s Good Food, O.T. Hodge Chile Parlor and Buttery Restaurant – but now it’s all about the convenience of walking to Taste in the Central West End. What that says about middle age, I don’t know, but I’m not complaining. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? For me, Seafood City and many of the Asian markets on that stretch of Olive Boulevard in University City are fantastic places for a chef to seek and find great ingredients. Simply roaming the aisles is a cure for any and all menu-writing blocks.

I think I see several new items I’ve never encountered each and every time I visit.

PICTURED LEFT: Meat board, Farmhaus

mollyrockamann EarthDance

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? The Subcontinental at The Royale Food & Spirits. I love any cocktail that uses fresh cucumber juice! What’s currently your favorite meal at a restaurant in St. Louis? Brunch at Local Harvest Café. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap?

The new Melt on Cherokee Street! Where else can you go for a revitalizing shot of wheatgrass juice after a night of drinking and dancing? What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? It excites me that more restaurateurs, grocers and especially individuals are seeing the value in buying locally grown or raised products. I’m hopeful that soon we will see more organic options at St. Louis restaurants, too. The focus on local is wonderful, but it’s also important to me that our food is raised in healthy soil, without petrochemicals.

PICTURED LEFT: The Subcontinental, The Royale

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½ Way Pardi Gras Celebration We have decide that 384 days is too long to wait for another Mardi Gras Party so we are throwing a ½ Way Pardi Gras Celebration on Saturday, August 31 starting at 1pm We will have great Cajun food features, plenty of Abita Beer & $5 Hwy 61 Hurricanes The Soul Funkin New Orleans Music of North of the Quarters Remember Pardi Gras 2014 Soulard Grand Parade is March 1st Fat Tuesday is March 4th

34 S. Old Orchard, • Webster Groves 63119 • 314.968.0061 • hwy61roadhouse.com

Choose Your Frozen Yogurt Style At Chill You can have it all... straight forward and simple or your own gourmet creation. Choose from innovative sweet, or tart and tangy yogurts and sorbets. Top with fruity, salty, or sugary toppings.

Chill’s yogurts are locally made and fresh daily and our flavors are unique. Try piling on hand-shaved Callebaut chocolate, raspberry puree, and Chill’s homemade fudge sauce or sea salt caramel.

Come see us!

Fresh flavors for August: Salted Caramel, Blackberry & Peach-Ginger Sorbet

Redeem this certificate for $1 off your next cup of Chill Offer valid through 8/30/13

7610 Wydown • Clayton • 314.932.5010 • chillfrozenyogurts.com

Inspired Food Culture

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chris sommers Pi Pizzeria, Gringo

What’s your earliest or best food memory? Fried chicken and pizza from Frank and Helen’s. What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? An Old Fashioned, either at Taste or at home, mixed by my wife, Anne. She cooks, she bartends – I’m very lucky! Who do you think is killing it in the kitchen right now? Matthew Daughaday at Taste is really impressing me recently. Chris Bork at Blood & Sand wows me every meal, too. Kevin Nashan at Sidney Street Cafe has never put out more delicious and beautiful plates as he has recently.

What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. I’m excited about our tomato plants, which haven’t been destroyed by squirrels yet, as well as the radishes we picked up. We make a variation of Gerard Craft’s radish bruschetta regularly at home this time of year (since I can’t currently get it at Taste – damn you guys for taking that off).

gerard craft Craft Restaurants Ltd.

What’s your earliest or best food memory?

I was at a marine biology camp and learned how to make kelp muffins by going down to the beach and collecting kelp berries. We also made fresh calamari. I was a really picky eater, but I remember thinking all of those things were really tasty. What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it?

The Civil Life Brewing Co.’s Bitter at Five Star Burgers. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Recently, I have been going to Olio or The Libertine. What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene? There’s a lot of energy behind it. We are an underdog, so it makes everyone try twice as hard to get noticed. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying? Extra Virgin: An Olive Ovation. Marianne Prey is a wealth of knowledge. Every time I go in there, I learn something new about olive oil.

jim fiala The Crossing, Acero

What’s your favorite drink, and where in St. Louis are you ordering it? Sitting on the patio at Nico, drinking Civil Life Brewing Co.’s Bitter, as it reminds me of being in Britain. Where do you go for a midnight snack and/or nightcap? Gravlax at Bar Les Frères.

What excites you about the current state of the St. Louis food scene?

There are a ton of young chefs whose primary goal is to cook delicious food.

Plate design is secondary, which means we all eat better. What’s your go-to specialty market, grocer or farmers’ market – and what are you buying?

Olive Farmer’s Market. Condiments galore.

PICTURED RIGHT: Gravlax, Bar Les Frères

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Contemporary Classics Recipe Contest Home cooks, you are invited to submit Thanksgiving recipes to Feast’s Contemporary Classics recipe contest in three categories: appetizers, side dishes and desserts, developed as contemporary takes on classic holiday dishes.

The most inventive, modern spins on classic recipes will be selected by Feast’s editorial staff to be tested by the professional chef instructors at L’Ecole Culinaire. Finalists will be invited to watch the recipe testing and judging unfold, where the dishes will be scored based on appearance, creativity, seasonal appeal and, of course, flavor. Winners chosen from each category will have their dish professionally photographed and featured in Feast’s Thanksgiving issue this November.

Throw your recipes into the ring by sending your contact information, a submission letter outlining your recipe concept and your full recipe including a thorough ingredient list and preparation process to editor@feaststl.com.

Presented by

Inspired Food Culture

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FEATURED BUSINESSES 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.231.9463, 33wine.com Acero, 7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.644.1790, fialafood.com/acero Annie Gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, smokehousemarket.com BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups, 700 S Broadway, Downtown, 314.436.5222, bbsjazzbluessoups.com Baetje Farms, 8932 Jackson School Road, Bloomsdale, Mo., 573.483.9021, baetjefarms.com Banh Mi So #1, 4071 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.353.0545, banhmiso1.com Bar Les Frères, 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880 Basso, 7036 Clayton Ave., 314.932.7820, basso-stl.com Baumann’s Fine Meats, 8829 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.968.3080, baumannsfinemeats.com Belleville Old Town Market, Belleville Main St., Belleville, Ill., 618.233.2015, bellevillemainstreet. net Benton Park Cafe, 1900 Arsenal St., Benton Park, 314.771.7200, bentonparkcafe.com The Big Cheese, bigcheesestl.com Biggie’s Restaurant & Bar, 3332 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park, 314.781.0060, biggiesrestaurant.com Black Thorn Pub, 3735 Wyoming St., Tower Grove, 314.776.0534 The Block, multiple locations, theblockrestaurant. com Blood & Sand, 1500 St. Charles St., Downtown, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl. com, Blues City Deli, 2438, McNair Ave., Benton Park, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com Bob’s Seafood, 8660 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.4844, bobsseafoodstl.com Bogart’s Smokehouse, 1627 S. 9th St., Soulard, 314.621.3107, bogartssmokehouse.com Brasserie by Niche, 4580 Laclede Ave., Central West End, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com Brennan’s, 4659 Maryland Ave., Central West End, 314.361.9444, cometobrennans.net Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar, 1004 Locust St., Downtown, 314.241.8141, thebridgestl.com Buttery Restaurant, 3659 S. Grand Blvd., Gravois Park, 314.771.4443 Café Natasha, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.771.3411, cafenatasha.com Carl’s Drive-In, 9033 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.961.9652 Central Table Food Hall, S. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.932.5595, centraltablestl.com CHOPSHOPSTL, @chopshopstl, chopshopstl.com Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., Tower Grove South, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com ClevelandHeath, 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Ill., 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com Companion, 8146 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.352.4770, companionstl.com Courtesy Diner, 1121 Hampton Ave., Dogtown, 314.644.2600 The Crossing, 7823 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.7375, fialafood. com/the-crossing The Crow’s Nest, 7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.0989, crowsnestbarstl.com Crown Candy Kitchen, 1401 St. Louis Ave., Old North, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net Cyrano’s Café, 603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com DeMun Oyster Bar, 740 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0322, demunoysterbar. com Diablitos Cantina, 3761 Laclede Ave., Midtown, 314.644.4430, diablitoscantina.com DiGregorio’s Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com Dulany’s Bar & Grill, 9940 Kennerly Road, South County, 314.849.1554, dulanys.com Dragon Trading-US, 1601 Woodson Road, Overland, 314.995.9999, dragontradingus.com Dressel’s

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Public House, 419 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.361.1060, dresselspublichouse. com EarthDance, 233 S. Dade Ave., Ferguson, 314.521.1006, earthdancefarms.org East East Oriental Grocery Store, 8619 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.432.5590 Eat-Rite, 622 Chouteau Ave., LaSalle Park, 314.621.9621 Eclipse Restaurant, 6177 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, 314.726.2222, eclipsestlouis.com Elaia and Olio, 1634 Tower Grove Avenue, Botantical Heights, 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com, oliostl.com Eleven Eleven Mississippi, 1111 Mississippi Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.241.9999, 1111-m.com Entre, 360 N. Boyle Ave., Central West End, 314.632.6754, entrestl.com Extra Virgin: An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com Fallon’s Bar and Grill, 9200 Olive Blvd., #116, Olivette, 314.991.9800, fallonspub. com Famous Szechuan Pavilion, 8615 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.685.0888 Farmhaus Restaurant, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., Lindenwood Park, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com Fitz’s Bottling Company, 6605 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.9555, fitzsrootbeer. com Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., The Hill, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com Five Star Burgers, 8125 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.720.4350, 5starburgersstl.com Fork & Stix, 549 Rosedale Ave., The Loop, 314.863.5572, facebook.com/ forknstix Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium, 1170 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.932.5414, foodatfozzies.com Franco, 1535 S. 8th St., Soulard, 314.436.2500, eatatfranco.com Frank and Helen’s, 8111 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.0666, frankandhelens.com Fratelli’s Ristorante, 2061 Zumbehl Road, St Charles, 636.949.9005, fratellisristorante.com Freddie’s Market, 9052 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.968.1914, freddiesmarket.com Frida’s Deli, 622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, fridasdeli.com Fritanga, 2208 S. Jefferson Ave., McKinley Heights, 314.664.7777, fritangastl.net Gioia’s Deli, 1934 Macklind Ave,.

The Hill, 314.776.9410, gioiasdeli.com Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com The Good Pie, 3137 Olive St., Midtown, 314.289.9391, thegoodpie.com Goody Goody Diner, 5900 Natural Bridge Ave., Wells-Goodfellow, 314.383.3333, goodygoodydiner.com Guerrilla Street Foods, @guerrillastreet, 314.529.1328, guerrillastreetfood.com Grandpa’s Berry Farm, 3031 Sand Road, Edwardsville, Ill., 618.692.4519, grandpasberryfarm.com Gringo, 398 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.449.1212, gringo-stl. com Hendricks BBQ, 1200 S Main St., St. Charles, 636.724.8600, hendricksbbq.com Herbie’s Vintage 72, 405 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.769.9595, herbies.com Home Wine Kitchen, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.802.7676, homewinekitchen.com HotPot Smoothie Shop, 11215 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.315.4421, hotpotsmoothie.com I Scream Cakes, 2641 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.932.5758, iscreamcakes.com Imo’s Pizza, multiple locations, imospizza.com J. Viviano & Sons, 5139 Shaw Ave., The Hill , 314.771.5476 shopviviano.com Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.772.9393, facebook.com/JayInternationalFoods Kakao Chocolate, multiple locations, kakaochocolate. com Kim Ngan, 3863 Grand Blvd., Dutchtown La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave., Botantical Heights, 314.932.7935, simonefaure. com La Tropicana Market and Cafe, 5001 Lindenwood Ave., Southtown, 314-353-7328, latropicana.com The Libertine, 7927 Forsyth

Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com Local Harvest Grocery, multiple locations, localharvestgrocery.com LuLu Seafood & Dim Sum, 8224 Olive Blvd, University City, 314.997.3108, luluseafood.com Mad Tomato, 8000 Carondelet Ave., Clayton, 314.932.5733, madtomatostl.com Mai Lee, 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileerestaurant.com Mangia Italiano, 3145 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.664.8585, dineatmangia.net, Melt, 2712 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.771.6358, facebook.com/meltoncherokee Michael’s Bar & Grill, 7101 Manchester Ave., Franz Park, 314.644.2240 Milagro Modern Mexican, 20 Allen Ave. #130, Webster Groves, 314.962.4300, milagromodernmexican.com Mission Taco Joint, 6235 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.932.5430 missiontacostl.com MOFU Soy, @mofusoy 314.221.5846, mofusoy.com The Mud House, 2101 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.776.6599, themudhousestl.com Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com Nico, 6525 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, 314.727.0200, nicostl.com Northwest Coffee Roasting Co., multiple locations, northwestcoffee.com O. T. Hodge Chile Parlor, 250 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.862.5515, othodge.com Olive Farmer’s Market, 8041 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.5168, stlouissupermarket.com Pappy’s Smokehouse, 3106 Olive St., Midtown, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com Paul Manno’s Cafe, 75 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.878.1274 Pho Grand, 3195 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.664.7435, phogrand.com Pi Pizzeria, multiple locations, restaurantpi.com Pint Size Bakery & Coffee, 3825 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park, 314.645.7142, pintsizebakery.com Pizza-A-Go-Go, 6703 Scanlan Ave., Lindenwood Park, 314.781.1234, pizzaagogo. blogspot.com Playboy Cappuccino Lounge, 8500 N. Broadway, 314.869.4098 Pomme Cafe & Wine Bar, 44 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.721.8801 pommerestaurants.com Quincy Street Bistro, 6931 Gravois Ave., Princeton Heights, 314.353.1588, quincystreetbistro.com Rain Crow Ranch, HC4 Box 253, Doniphan, Mo., 573.996.3716, raincrowranch.com Ranoush, 6501 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, 314.726.6874, ranoush.com Riverbend Restaurant & Bar, 701 Utah St., Soulard, 314.664.8443, riverbendbar.com Robust Wine Bar, multiple locations, robustwinebar.com The Royale Food & Spirits, 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., Tower Grove South, 314.772.3600, theroyale. com Salume Beddu, 3467 Hampton Ave., Lindenwood Park, 314.353.3100, salumebeddu.com Sameem Afghan Restaurant, 4341 Manchester Ave., The Grove, 314.534.9500, kabob-palace.com Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., The Grove, 314.535.9700, sanctuariastl.com Sandrina’s, 5098 Arsenal St., Southwest Garden, 314.601.3456, sandrinasstl.com Sauce on the Side, 903 Pine St., Downtown, 314.241.5667, eatcalzones. com Saullo’s Pizzeria, 11046 Larimore Road, North County, 314.867.2550 Schlafly Farmers’ Market, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, schlaflyfarmersmarket.com Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood 314.241.2337, schlafly.com/bottleworks Seoul Taco, 571 Melville Ave., The Loop, 314.863.1148, seoultacostl.com Sidney Street Cafe, 2000 Sidney St., Benton Park, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafe.com St. James Winery, 540

State Route B, St. James, Mo., 573-265-7912, stjameswinery.com Stagger Inn...Again, 104 E. Vandalia St., Edwardsville, Ill., 618.656-4221, staggerinnagain.com Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com Stringbean Coffee Co., @ stringbeanpete, stringbeans.net Sugarfire Smoke House, 9200 Olive Blvd., Olivette, 314.997.2301, sugarfiresmokehouse.com Sump Coffee, 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., Marine Villa, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com Sushi Tatsu, 5725 N. Illinois St., Fairview Heights, Ill., 618.277.5554 Table, 1821 Cherokee St., Benton Park, 314.449.1888, tablestl.com Takaya New Asian, 634 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.241.5721, takayanewasian.com Tani Sushi Bistro, 16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.727.8264, tanisushi. com Taste by Niche, 4584 Laclede Ave., Central West End, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, 6726 Chippewa St., St. Louis Hills, 314.481.2652, teddrewes.com Tony’s, 410 Market St., Downtown, 314.231.7007, tonysstlouis.com Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen, 8 S. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.361.4443, tortillaria.net Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, 4256 Magnolia Ave., Tower Grove, 314.772.3899, tgmarket.org Trattoria Marcella, 3600 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park, 314.352.7706, trattoriamarcella.com Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., Midtown, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com The Village Bar, 12247 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.821.4532 Vin de Set, 2017 Chouteau Ave., Downtown, 314.241.8989, vindeset.com The Vine, 3171 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.776.0991, thevinestl.com Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, slmo.vomfassusa.com Wang Gang Asian Eats, 1035 Century Drive, Edwardsville, Ill., 618.655.0888, wanggangasian. com Webster Groves Farmers’ Market, Gazebo Park, Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.963.5696, webstergrovesfarmersmarket. com Wenneman Meat Co., 7415 State Route 15, St. Libory, Ill., 618.768.4328, wenneman.com The Wine Merchant Ltd., 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com YellowTree Farm, 314.482.9203, yellowtreefarm.com

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS Jonathan Gayman: Bar Les Frères (p.78), Crown Candy Kitchen (p.66), DeMun Oyster Bar (p.42), Eat-Rite Diner (p.72), Farmhaus (p.76), Fork & Stix (p.48), Fritanga (p.42), The Libertine (p.56), Mission Taco Joint (p.64), Paul Manno’s Cafe (p.58), Pho Grand (p.52), Ranoush (p.52), Riverbend Restaurant & Bar (p.40), The Royale Food & Spirits (p.76), The Stagger Inn...Again (p.58), Ted Drewes Frozen Custard (p.70), The Vine (p.50), Wang Gang Asian Eats (p.62) Jonathan Pollack: Benton Park Cafe (p.72), Dulany’s Grille & Pub (p.62), Goody Goody Diner (p.46), Saullo’s Pizzeria (p.70), Winslow’s Home (p.41) Jennifer Silverberg: Blood & Sand/Chris Bork (p.74), Craft Restaurants Ltd. (54-55), introduction page - Taste by Niche (p.39), Mai Lee (p.68-69), Pappy’s Smokehouse/Mike Emerson (p.44), Sidney Street Cafe/Kevin Nashan, Chris Bolyard (p.60) Corey Woodruff: Banh Mi So #1 (p.41), Five Star Burgers (p.46), J. Viviano & Sons (p.50), The Mud House (p.66)

CLASSIFIEDS Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

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AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

GENTLY USED APPAREL & FURNITURE Clubhouse Shop wants your gently used donations.

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Drop Offs - 4245 Forest Park M-F 10-5, Sat 10-2pm (All proceeds benefit adults with mental illnesses)

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Seeking partners for our 3rd base suite, Diamond Box and Infield Box seats.

Call Jen at 614-218-3884 www.SuitePartners.com Our Suite is available for your special event!

ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin 314.993.1330 Or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

Get your BBQ grill ready for Cookouts & Baseball!

Treat him to a clean, healthy grill this season.

Our steam bath process helps remove greasy buildup and harmful carcinogens.

Grill healthier, better tasting food.

Call Steve 314-452-7192 or visit www.bbqgrillco.com

GENTLY USED APPAREL & FURNITURE Clubhouse Shop wants your gently used donations.

PICKUP Call 314-880-5484 Itemized tax letters provided.

Drop Offs - 4245 Forest Park M-F 10-5, Sat 10-2pm (All proceeds benefit adults with mental illnesses)

I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

CLEANING SERVICES TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable.

Insured.

Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

PET SERVICES

KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's.

Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

THE WELL BEHAVED PET....

For all your home training needs.

New Puppy, Puppy Mill, Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems.

OH, DON'T FORGET THE CAT!!!!

Call me, I can help.

Laura @ 636-456-9993

SERVICES

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs.

Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater.

Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended!

Call 314-569-2009

WANTED TREES

PAINTING

HANDYMAN SERVICES

HOME IMPROVEMENT

VACATION RENTALS

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers. Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

WANTED

Trees Trimmed & Removed

GILLS TREE SERVICE

CHINESE ANTIQUES: QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: BUYING IVORY, JADE and BRONZE figurines, NICE PIECES 314-503-4847

• Stone Retaining Walls • Stump Grinding • Fully Insured

(636) 274-1378 VACATION RENTALS GULF COAST CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more!

Great Rates. Available NOW! Call Dave at 314-922-8344 For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365

ROBERTSVILLE ESTATE AUCTION CO. Entire Estates or Just Down Sizing Cash Buyout or Consignment For Onsite Evaluation Call 314-229-9274 ï 636-675-5566 www.robertsvilleauction.com

OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection.

45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made. Call Kurt 314-324-0521

At Skypark, your first day is free.

SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.

Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a day for the rest of your stay.* Name

Email

*Coupon valid for Self-Park only. Requires minimum two-day stay (one day free; one day at $6). Expires October 31, 2013. Not valid with any other SkyPark offer. Name and email information required in order to use coupon.

4500 Crestshire Lane • St. Ann • 314.423.3800 • skypar kstl.com Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

81

the last bite

Nutella S’mores Pizza

Contributor: Andrea Mongler, COPY EDITOR It’s hard to beat s’mores in the summertime. I felt that way as a kid, and I haven’t changed my mind as an adult. But have you ever tried making them at home? Without the obligatory backyard campfire or fire pit, they disappoint. At Peel Wood Fired Pizza in Edwardsville, Ill., however, a creative spin on s’mores upgrades this summer standard from dessert to main course.

The restaurant’s Nutella S’mores Pizza is pretty much what it sounds like: In place of the traditional Hershey’s chocolate bar, Nutella and homemade ganache are generously smeared across one of Peel’s standard pizza crusts. It’s then topped with graham cracker crumbles and a generous pillowing of marshmallows. After baking in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven for a few minutes, out comes one addicting, gigantic s’more. Melted marshmallows and crunchy graham cracker crumbles sit atop warm, silky chocolate-hazelnut spread, all swirled together on a crispy crust.

Here, familiar textures and flavors stoke nostalgia in a clever take on a classic summer treat.

I’m often guilty of not saving enough room for dessert, but that’s not a problem at Peel. I like to start the night with a wild mushroom or jerk chicken pizza, and finish the meal with the stuff that dreams are made of: Nutella S’mores Pizza.

Peel Wood Fired Pizza 921 S. Arbor Vitae, Edwardsville, Ill. 618.659.8561, peelpizza.com

Photography by

Jonathan Gayman

Inspired Food Culture

AUGUST 2013

83

we produce!

As your hometown neighborhood grocery store, we love local fruits and vegetables.

Schnucks is committed to bringing you the best tasting local produce when it’s ready.

Our buyers are proud to partner with local growers for the best locally grown produce – picked fresh and shipped to us for peak flavor and quality.

We’ll have fabulous, just-picked fruits and vegetables arriving daily – stop by and check out what’s fresh every day!

®

©2013 Schnucks

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