December 2012 Feast Magazine

pour like the pros

elaia & olio

tower of tradition

THE PERFECT MIX

MED GOES MOD

CROQUEMBOUCHE

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | deCember 2012 | Free

boozy hoLIday Cheer

Heavenly Savor Specialty Cheeses!

Our selection of specialty cheeses rivals any cheese shop. Stop by our Deli and you’ll find everything from award-winning American artisan cheeses to European classics. Create your own cheese plate or enjoy in your favorite recipes for tasteful holiday entertaining!

When it means the most, come home to Schnucks for the holidays! Š2012 Schnucks

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D ecember 2012

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

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style dine in

ENTERTAIN YOUR GUESTS IN STYLE WITH OUR GREAT SELECTION OF DINING SETS AT SPECIAL HOLIDAY SAVINGS

EDINGTON features elaborate carvings, distinctive angles, and elegant curving lines.

JUST ARRIVED! ELEGANT DINING CHOICES

KENDALL offers classic Traditional styling and impeccable detailing.

MISSION HILLS creates a comfortable and inviting atmosphere.

O’FALLON, MO

O’FALLON, IL

SOUTH SIDE

636-978-3500

618-632-1700

314-968-5595

SOUTH COUNTY

DELLWOOD

ALTON

314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Inspired Food Culture

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5

December 2012

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

DECEMBER 2012 from the staff

| 10 |

from the publisher

| 32 |

Buy it and try it: Brussels sprout stalks.

Cheers to a happy holiday.

| 12 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 14 |

feast faVes

Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. columNs

| 26 |

| 28 |

| 34 | | 36 | | 38 |

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of A NEGRONI (P. 55) BY

Jonathan Gayman TABLE Of CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Jonathan Gayman

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RIVERCITY.COM

%PG 6

feastSTL.com feastSTL.com

%MO December %YEAR 2012

GE A R GA PEN

NG O I RK OW A P N

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test: handheld milk frothers.

| 42 |

meNu optioNs

‘Tis the season for showstopping Croquembouche.

the mix

oN the shelf

tech school

Succulent suckling pig.

The simple pleasure of a toddy.

| 30 |

how to

Make your own candy canes.

oNe oN oNe

Explore the art of barbecue with Ronald Buechele.

mystery shopper

| 82 |

the last bite

Matt Sorrell finds his sweet tooth at 1111 Mississippi.

65

rich with tradition 70

sunday supper double feature

building a better

44

BAR Inspired InspiredFood FoodCulture Culture

%MO December %YEAR 2012

%PG7

Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 12 | December 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor, Print Content Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Brandon Chuang, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Comments publisher@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC Jennifer A. Wood, publisher 8

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December 2012

Main Street

Shopping, Wine, & Dining Guide Columbia

Illinois

Agnes Ross

Joe Boccardi’s Ristorante

115 W. Gundlach St. • 618-281-4327

117 S. Main St. • 618-281-6700

Artistic Hair Design & Gift Shop

Magnolia

237 N. Main St., • 618-281-9799

208 N. Main St. • 618-281-8083

Chateau La Vin

Our Coffee House Café

119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117

125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554

Elements Off Main

Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape

107 West Gundlach St. • 618- 281-7846

Evalina’s Antique Café

608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020

The Patina Pony

124A S. Main St. • 618- 520-0569

113 W. Gundloch • 618-281-7915

Fabulous Finds

Tiny’s Pub & Grill

315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1954

602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977

Fashion Attic

Ultimate Tan & Nail

128 S. Main St. • 618-281-7467

111 W. Locust • 618-281-4848

Gruchala’s Restaurant

Vida Verde Studio Salon & Boutique

210 S. Main St. • 618-281-9901

127 N. Main St. • 618-281-6767

Imo’s Pizza

Who Dat’s Cajun Food

1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552

123 S. Main St. • 618-281-2229

Discover Historic Main Street Columbia

Illinois

Where you will find hospitality, warmth, charm, style and friendly faces!

Extended Holiday Business Hours:

Thursdays - 8pm, or later Sundays Noon - 4pm, or later

DAILY DRINK & FOOD SPECIALS

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS:

December 1 at 5pm LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE

Visit ColumbiaIllinois.com for upcoming event details.

& Visit

Santa

5 TINY’S PUB & GRILL

$ 50 LUNCH SPECIAL

in Columbia, IL

with this ad. Expires 12/31/12

602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236

Saturday or Sunday 1-4pm December 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23

618-281-9977

Santa Hut at City Hall

Grill open Sunday-Wednesday 11-8 pm Thursday-Saturday 11-9 pm Pub open til 1 am.

100 Block S. Main Street

Unique Western Apparel and Decor... Crafted to Last

SADDLE UP & SAVE FOR THE HOLIDAYS! SAVE 10%

with this ad Offer expires 12.31.2012.

Offer not valid on furniture.

Located in the Old Distillary 113 W. Gundlach • Columbia, IL • 618.281.7915 • thepatinapony.com

WINE SHOP, WINE GARDEN & TASTING BAR

FREE GIFT With any purchase over $25.

Like us on Facebook for Sales, Events & Much More! www.facebook.com/ar.agnesross Located in The Old Distillery Center 115 West Gundlach Street

618-281-4327

10% OFF PURCHASE

Offer Expires 12/31/12

1395

LARGE TWO- $ TOPPING PIZZA

Great Wines, Specialty Beers, Spirits & Wine Accessories

Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional.

Not good with any other offer.

EXPIRES 12/31/12

chateaulavin.com

1450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)

Closed Monday • Tues.-Thurs. 2-9pm • Fri.-Sat. Noon-10pm • Sun. Noon-5pm

119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL • 618.281.8117

Gift Certificates Make Great Holiday Gifts!

Lunch & Dinner Menu

$8 OFF

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

Authentic Italian Brick Oven!

Private Parties Available 608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials

Offer expires 12/30/12

117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236

www.joeboccardis.com

• Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late

618-281-2020

Purchase of $30 or More

618-281-6700

618-281-5552

CARRY-OUT • DINE-IN • DELIVERY

Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwhiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts

618-710-0200 700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

9

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Jonathan Gayman

pubLiShEr’S LETTEr

FEAST EVENTS Feast Your Eyes sat., Dec. 1, noon; Contemporary Art Museum st. louis

Enjoy a tasting prepared by chef Nick Hatfield of Food Outreach in response to the exhibitions.

Taste of the NFL Mon., Dec. 3, 6 to 9pm; st. louis Area Foodbank $175, call Jane Corpora at 314.292.5764

Meet Rams players and enjoy food from some of St. Louis’ best restaurants at Taste of the NFL. St. Louis Rams’ General Manager, Les Snead, will be on hand as well. Proceeds benefit St. Louis Area Foodbank.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Dec. 19, 6pm; schnucks Cooks Cooking school $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make a French meal of roasted rack of lamb, potato-celeriac gratin and a towering Croquembouche.

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Preview thu., Jan. 10, 6:30 to 8:30pm; schnucks Des Peres $25, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Sample and purchase premier wines before they’re offered at the Food & Wine Experience.

Jennifer Silverberg set up her lights and cameras in my dining room to shoot Sunday Supper (p. 70). After spending the day in the kitchen cooking and photographing Erik Jacobs’ recipes, we cozied up in front of the fireplace to feast on the delicious props.

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience January 25 to 27; the Chase Park Plaza Hotel

When we sat down to plan the December issue, managing editor brandi Wills and

Pricing varies, repstl.org/foodandwine

More than 700 premier wines, 90 exhibitors and culinary

I threw around a bunch of ideas, but none of them stuck. Well, none of them stuck until we started chatting about her husband’s

demonstrations from acclaimed local and national celebrity chefs

fascination with cocktails. Anthony’s home bar could rival some professionals’ and that got us thinking: What does it take to

make for a not-to-be-missed, weekend-long epicurean adventure

build a solid collection of spirits, mixers, garnishes, glassware and tools that gives you what you need to craft just about any

to benefit The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

cocktail, but doesn’t waste space or money? Mixologist Matt Sorrell was up to the investigative task and I’m happy to present our boozy double feature, building A better bar, on p. 44.

To round out this tipsy issue, we introduce you to baker Peter Rosciglione and his decadent cassata cake. Rosciglione’s family has been baking traditional Sicilian pastries here in St. Louis for generations. And for our cooking feature, we reached out to chef Erik Jacobs to devise a meal meant to keep you in the kitchen, happily cooking, baking, nibbling and sipping during a long, cold winter day (p. 70). At the holidays it’s good to find quiet time to enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of serving a meal that was leisurely braised for hours, and if you can snuggle up by the fire while you dine, all the better.

Baltic Odyssey Cruise sept. 3 to 13, 2013 314.968.9600, altairtravel.com

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This year’s trip takes you to Scandinavia, the world’s newest center of culinary innovation. you’ll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day stop in St. Petersburg.

Until next time,

FEEdbAck?

catherine@feaststl.com

Catherine Neville

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December 2012 NOVEMBER 2012

Unique Gifts for that Special Person

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314-487-2670 • 6044 Lemay Ferry Rd. • Fax: 314-487-8660 15 min. south of the Arch on I-55 • mile south of Butler Hill Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

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ONLINE CONTENT

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Multimedia

The Magazine

BReaK oUT THe BUBBLy: Take Champagne beyond a simple New Year’s Eve toast with our tips for pairing it with everything from sushi to corn nuts and building a specially themed bar. Visit feastSTL.com on Tue., Dec. 4, for both!

MULTImedIa

How-To Video: Get behind the bar with Feast publisher Cat Neville and BC’s Kitchen’s award-winning mixologist Justin Cardwell for a demo on two classic cocktails that you can easily mix up for guests – or yourself.

Plus, Cardwell walks you through a hot cocktail trend: dehydrating liqueurs (more on p. 60).

SUBSCRiBe Now! Our award-winning enewsletter delivers the latest news on the St. Louis food scene, extra recipes, special events and more to your inbox every Tuesday.

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GifT ideaS & GiVeawayS: Our 12 Days of Christmas Gift Guide is chock-full of great ideas for the food lovers in your life. If you happen to fall in love with the items as well, we have good news: you can enter to win them! We’re launching a daily giveaway on Wed., Dec. 12 – counting down to Christmas with a new gift every day. Visit feastSTL.com on Mon., Dec. 10, for entry details.

pinterest.com/feastmag Scan this tag to follow us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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December 2012

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

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1634 Tower Grove Ave., botanical Heights 314.932.1088; elaiastl.com, oliostl.com

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December 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

An Art Deco gas station and a 120-year-old twofamily flat have been joined to create Elaia and Olio, ben Poremba’s new restaurant and wine bar.

Olio beckons with a warm, edgy modernity, offering relaxed dining and over 150 wines from which to choose. Elaia is the concept’s refined other half. With seating for fewer than 30, the intimate restaurant serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine that pulls from Poremba’s past but speaks to where food is today. Milky white bay scallop ceviche is plated with fresh chickpeas and green tomatoes. Poached eggs with sabayon are given a textural and visual pop with the addition of salmon roe. And in homage to Poremba’s mom, Rachel, who was also a chef, his chicken dish highlights her traditional ingredients − apricot, pumpkin and preserved lemon − prepared as a sous-vide-cooked roulade that is roasted before serving. Elaia’s wine list is extensive and unusual, and trust us when we say to try the wines from Lebanon. They have an earthy funk that pulls the food’s Mediterranean flavors together perfectly. – C.N.

Jonathan Gayman

elaia and olio

Gardenland Express

the civil life’s brown ale @ pastaria written by

Holiday Flower & Train Show

Jennifer Johnson

November 21 through January 1, 2013

Order a St. Louis beer in an italian restaurant? Absolutely, if it’s the Civil Life brewery’s brown ale at Pastaria in Clayton. this medium-bodied beer is a splendid pair with the braised beef and a fine complement to the chile-flaked roasted brussels sprouts and crispy risotto balls.

Pastaria offers casual conviviality, and the kitchen shows implicit respect for local foods with its simply prepared italy-inspired dishes. the student-dining-hall-meets-italian-open-airbistro mix of diners offers guests an immediate understanding that the food will be rustic and familiar, much like a great beer. brown ale is chestnut to mahogany in color and moderately bodied with at least slight malt flavors and yeasty notes of citrus and spice from warm fermentation. it’s more robust by nature than most lagers. it can finish sweet or dry, and the Civil Life’s brown leans more toward bitter in its toasty-nuttiness and coffee and toffee notes with light hops of lemony florals. its solid structure and acidity ready the palate for the savory richness of Pastaria’s braised beef and the melt-in-your-mouth tender texture of this slowcooked dish, pulling the sweet freshness of rosemary and thyme from the braising juices. this beer is a fantastic example of what’s being produced by our region’s numerous microbreweries.

Come celebrate “Merry Botanical Traditions” at the Garden!

The annual Gardenland Express holiday flower and train show returns to delight visitors of all ages with its animated G-scale model trains and hundreds of traditional holiday plants.

For more information visit:

www.mobot.org Sponsorship support by: Central States Coca-Cola Bottling Company and CBIZ & Mayer Hoffman McCann P.C.

7734 Forsyth blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603 pastariastl.com

PHOtOGrAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

4344 Shaw Blvd. • St. Louis, MO 63110 • (314) 577-5100 • www.mobot.org

St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

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vanbuskirk artisanal chocolate bar ‘Tis the season to indulge, and at Vanbuskirk Artisanal Chocolate bar, you can do just that.

Food-centric truffles, hand-brewed coffee, small-batch cheeses, house-made ice cream, cocktails, wine and even cigars are on offer at this new Cottleville gathering place. With quality and creativity top of mind, the folks at Vanbuskirk source seasonal ingredients for their gorgeous truffles − think cardamom and walnut, yuzu and ginger, or caramelized pear and goat cheese. Pair your truffles with a single-origin coffee brewed as an espresso or hand-brewed using your chosen method: Chemex, French press, beehouse or cold press. If you’re seeking something with a different kind of kick, Vanbuskirk’s bartenders will mix a cocktail using their house-made chocolate syrup or pour you a craft beer, which would be delicious alongside a few of the great cheeses that are available, like Prairie Fruits Farm’s Little bloom or Moonglo. This cozy chocolate-shop-slash-bar is a sweet addition to St. Charles County’s growing food scene. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

5326 Highway N, Cottleville, 314.229.7445 vanbuskirkartisanal.com

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feastSTL.com

December 2012

christmas candies break out the bing Crosby, throw on your favorite ugly sweater and indulge in the best of holiday traditions: Christmas candy. These are just a few of our locally made favorites. – B.W.

Quality cutlery, the foundation of a well-equipped kitchen.

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Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

HOLIDAY GIFT CARDS NOW AVAILABLE 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com

LIVE ON STAGE! ONE GIRL. ONE DREAM. ONE CHANCE.

white chocolate-covered cashew brittle

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cherry cordials

| 1 | Fudge, $3.25 (¼-lb slab); Chef’s Shoppe, 2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, chefsshoppe.com | 2 | Zettie’s Confections cashew brittle, $11.99 (8-oz box); The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com | 3 | Cherry cordials, $13.95 (8-oz box); Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co., multiple locations, chocolatechocolatechocolate.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

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December 2012

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nhb knife works written by

Brandon Chuang

with phrases like “Japanese imports” and material costs that reach many thousands of dollars being thrown around, you’d think that nate bonner was some kind of high-end, The Fast and the Furiousstyle mechanic. but bonner makes knives. and not just any knives. with help from his artist friend, tom Stone, bonner’s nhb Knife works makes one-of-a-kind, completely from-scratch knives that utilize some jaw-dropping materials. with over a decade of whetstone and grinding experience, bonner hones the blades, and together with Stone, he creates handles made from things like snow fungus, morel mushrooms and shrimp.

J. Pollack Photography

though a bit secretive about the process, bonner notes that the pair have created a method that allows them to take unorthodox materials, harden them and then carve them like wood. their most recent exercise has them making handles out of recycled cutting boards that have been crystallized. “they look like the cave in Superman,” says bonner.

PhotograPhy by

nhb Knife works can create custom designs, and its retail knives ($80-$280) will be available locally at bertarelli Cutlery. nhbknifeworks.com

Joe the butcher says...

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

Give the perfect Gift, the Perfect Steaks from...

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Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon Steaks 4-6 oz. Filets $28.95 6-6 oz. Filets $40.95 8-6 oz. Filets $52.95 4-8 oz. Filets $29.95 6-8 oz. Filets $42.95 8-8 oz. Filets $54.95

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"Kenrick's Gift Cards - An Extremely Tasteful Gift for the Holidays. Any Denomination Available" DELIVERY IN ST. LOUIS METRO AREA, $20.00

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December %MO %YEAR 2012

Give the gift of food

This Holiday Season, share the gift of food with over 30 of Saint Louis' best local restaurant!

www.SaintLouisOriginals.com • (877) 229-7299

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

19

chef’s shoppe Tucked in the back of Chef’s Shoppe, a 6,500-square-foot kitchen supply store in Edwardsville, is one hoppin’ popcorn factory. It churns out 65 fresh-popped flavors every day, including staples such as caramel, Cheddar and kettle corn as well as creative options like dill pickle, beer, strawberry cheesecake and mac ‘n’ cheese. When owners Scott and Nancy Schneider expanded the store earlier this year, they wanted to add more than square footage to their business.

Since they already catered to the foodie crowd, offering gourmet treats made perfect sense.

Grab a bag of your favorite flavor when you arrive and hit the aisles. With more space (and goods) than your typical specialty shop, the Schneiders have simplified the shopping process by colorcoding their store. On the green wall you’ll find tools for working with fruits and vegetables, such as corers, peelers and slicers; the orange wall packs in the protein, with grilling supplies and egg and seafood accessories; the yellow wall holds all your utensil needs; and the blue wall is chock-full of baking gear, from cookie cutters and cupcake liners to pans and tins. “Some people bake every day, and others only brave the task at holidays, so we try to carry the right pan for the right person,” says Nancy Schneider. “If plan to use your loaf pan once a year, we’ll suggest a less expensive version and show you how to take good care of it so it lasts you year to year. But if you’re going to use that pan on a regular basis, we’ll set you up with a high-quality pan you can bang around the kitchen for a lifetime.”

Don’t leave without checking out the dip and bread mixes, bartending tools, and entertaining wares; everything you need to put on a swinging holiday soiree. And you might as well grab a few more bags of popcorn on your way out. It makes a great gift this time of year. – B.W. 2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, 618.659.9840 chefsshoppe.com

Three holiday enTerTaining MusT-haves: | 1 | The word raclette refers to a classic Swiss dish as well as the grill used to cook it. “you grill meats and vegetables on top, and then you place them in the pans with some cheese and pop them under the broiler,” says Nancy Schneider. | 2 | Eucalyptus Stoneware bread bowls are perfect for holiday entertaining. “They’re

|1|

|3|

made to go in the oven, and their ceramic bases stay hot while the outside edges “As a bonus, they’re quite lovely on the table.” | 3 | “Emile Henry bakeware is beautifully designed so you can cook in it and immediately present it on the table,” says Schneider. “Plus, it cleans up incredibly easy. No more scrubbing pans until midnight after a dinner party.”

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feastSTL.com

December 2012

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHy By Corey Woodruff

are cool to the touch,” says Schneider.

Big Bear Grill • Serving Lunch and Dinner Seven Days a Week • Nightly Specials • Voted Best Fried Chicken Dinner 2012 in St. Louis • Offering a Full Range of Corporate and Residential Catering, as well as, Box Lunches 2 Locations to Serve You

Wildwood 636.405.1100 • Warson Woods 314.821.1000 •

• BigBearGrill.com

Hard to Find — Impossible to Forget Since 1929, Big Chief Roadhouse has been a landmark along the famed Route 66. Under new ownership, the restaurant has returned to its original glory. Providing the best in quality dining and entertainment, a visit to Big Chief will not soon be forgotten.

• • • • •

All Meats Smoked In-House Fresh From Scratch Dishes Family Friendly | Kids Game Room Private Banquet Room Personal and Corporate Catering

17352 Manchester Rd. • Wildwood • 636.458.3200

• BigChiefSTL.com

Lasagna Recipe - 2 LBS Ground Beef cooked - 1 Cup chopped onion - 1/4 Cup olive oil - 1 TBL spoon salt - 1 TSP pepper

- 1 QT sliced sautéed mushrooms - 20 Lasagna Noodles cooked - 1 1/2LBS ricotta cheese -*3/4LBS grated provel cheese -*3/4LBS grated mozzarella cheese

-*1 Cup Romano cheese - 3 QTS prepared tomato sauce *Combine three cheese to make one mixture

To assemble, spread a small amount of tomato sauce on bottom of 9x13 baking dish. Arrange 5 noodles on top of sauce. Spread tomato sauce on top of noodles. Spread 1/4 of meat and mushroom mixture on top of sauce. Spread 1/4 amount of cheese mixture on top of meat. Spread 1/4 of Ricotta cheese on top of cheese mixture. Repeat 3 more times to make 4 layers.Cover with aluminum foil. Bake at 350° for 60 min.

2061 Zumbehl • St. Charles, MO • 636.949.9005 • fratellisristorante.com

Organic Produce Delivered To Your Door You can have a box delivered every week or every other week for as little as $25. We offer a variety of box sizes to choose from. For more details, please visit our website ConniesGreenGrocery.com.

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636.498.2500 • ConniesGreenGrocer y.com Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

21

belles of the bar

|1|

|2|

|3| Bartending gear is a lot of fun to play with, but its design can often be a bit Plain-Jane. These barware beauties will bring a splash of style to your next cocktail party.

To really up your game, turn to p. 44 for our double feature on home bartending. – B.W.

|5|

|6|

|4|

| 1 | Tilt chilling sphere, $17.99; soireehome.com | 2 | Tavolo King Cube ice tray, $8.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Kirby cordial glasses, $8.95 each; Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com | 4 | English mug with horn handle, $84; Byron Cade, 13474 Clayton Road, Clayton, byroncadegifts.com | 5 | Sheesham ice bucket, $198; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 6 | Olive picks, $1.25 each; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

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Fair Trade Coffee & Chocolate.

For over 27 years, Plowsharing Crafts has been St. Louis' source for Fair Trade coffee, chocolate and handcrafts.

We invite you to enjoy a great cup of coffee and experience a fine piece of chocolate while supporting small farmers around the world.

University City Holiday Hours: M-F 10-9, Sat. 10-5:30

Kirkwood Holiday Hours: M-F 10-8, Sat. 10-5:30

6271 Delmar Blvd. • Delmar Loop • 314.863.3723 • 137 W. Jefferson Ave. • Kirkwood • 314.909.9401 • plowsharing.org

Plan Your Holiday Party Now “A Christmas Sleigh-ing” Come celebrate your Christmas this year at the Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre as we try to unravel the truth behind the song, “Grandma got Run Over by a Reindeer.” Was it a reindeer? Or did someone want the old lady dead and just make it look like a reindeer accident? In all our years of doing murder mystery shows we have found, it’s never the reindeer!

Help Fred Scrooge and Granny track down the killer in this interactive comedy/murder mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Ask for a “starring role” or just sit back and guess “whodunit.” Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN! Call Today for Reservations! Open New Year's Eve

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

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Catch our premier on "Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives": Monday December 10th – 9pm Food Network

34 S. Old Orchard • Webster Groves • 314.968.0061 • hwy61roadhouse.com

Family owned and operated since 1967.

We sharpen • Knives • Garden tools • Scissors • Lawn mower blades

• Old fashion rotary mowers • And much much more

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands.

Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi • Saint Louis 314.664.4005

Bertarelli Cutlery Inspired Food Culture

@STLKNIVES December 2012

23

The Reagan St. Charles, Missouri

Historic MAIN STREET Join us on Main Street during the holidays for

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Little Hills Wine Shop Second Floor 710 S Main Street, St. Charles Mo 63301 • 636.946.9165 www.kerneldaves.com • www.facebook/kerneldave

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24

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December 2012

Kimberly Zander, GIA Gradiate Gemologist

1015 South 5th Street • St. Charles, MO 63301

636.946.6618

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(636) 724-0132 Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

25

Chef and owner, Capitalist pig

ronald BueChele

WRITTeN By Catherine Neville PhOTOgRAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

In May of 2000, Ron Buechele purchased the old Third District police station and turned it into Mad Art, a well-known art gallery and event space. “Originally I wanted a gallery that would predominantly feature St. Louis artists,” says Buechele. “If I could find a way to pay for the gallery without taking commissions on art sales, I could exhibit a broader range of work. That gave way to using the space for private events, [and we] eventually offered catering. This allowed the gallery to grow and survive. To this day we still take no commission on art sold.”

Buechele recently launched a lunch-only, takeout-only barbecue joint, Capitalist Pig, inside the gallery.

How did the Capitalist Pig concept develop? A little over a year ago we renovated the kitchen. I was thinking about ways to maximize revenue from it.

What do St. Louisans love when it comes to food? Barbecue. St. Louis is said to consume more barbecue sauce per capita than any other city in the nation. Now, how can I make it different so that I’m not just another guy with a smoker eating from the same pie? That was where the sustainability came in. You use only sustainably raised meats. Why? It should be important to everybody, but let’s start with me. Loosely defined, heritage hogs are those relatively distinct breeds that were present and can be traced back to the period before industrial farming. It is these old breeds that we call “heritage.”

My use of the term heritage refers not only to breed but also the way the animal was raised. Can you give us a hint as to what’s in your dry rubs and brine? For the rubs, I borrowed extensively from my Sicilian and Latin heritage. The brisket rub uses several different types of dry chiles and a bit of coffee. The pork rub has a few surprises in it, like cardamom, coriander, juniper and epazote. The brine contains sweet tea. It’s an extra step, but I believe it’s worth it. The chicken is brined as well and then wet-rubbed with Berber spices. How do you see food and art intersecting?

Food and art both fulfill a range of desires.

Food fills physical hunger and stimulates us aesthetically. Art feeds the senses and stimulates academic discourse. Food and art can both be cheap, mass-produced, pedestrian, expensive, rarified or even entirely exclusive. The more I think about it, the more similarities I can find between the two. The necessity of food doesn’t need defending, but there is a schism between individuals who consider art a basic human need and those who consider it superfluous.

How is being in the food biz different from the art biz? It’s not really. Whether it’s art or food, you are promoting and selling a one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted product to an audience who always thinks it should be cheaper than it actually is.

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2727 S. 12th St., Soulard 314.772.1180 capitalistpigbbq.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Ronald Buechele.

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Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

27

a Simple pleaSure

STOrY AnD reCIPe BY Matt seiter PHOTOGrAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

Booze, sugar and water. That’s it. That’s a toddy. This enormously popular drink was favored by our forefathers. It’s incredibly simple because not many had access to the slew of liqueurs, fruits and other mixers we have at our disposal today. Also, it was viewed as medicine. Headache? Drink a toddy. Foot hurt? Drink a toddy. Wife complaining about things not getting done around the house? Get those done. Then drink a toddy.

The secret to a good toddy lies in its simplicity. First, decide whether you want it hot or cold. Yes, a toddy can be served cold.

Boil your water or get it in the fridge to chill.

If using boiling water for your toddy, make sure you serve the drink in a coffee mug or tempered glass. It will retain the heat better than a regular glass. Also, preheat your mug by filling it with hot water and letting it sit for minute or so.

Second, pick your base spirit. I prefer brown spirits like scotch, aged rum or cognac.

The aging of those spirits adds a lot to the overall flavor of the drink. White spirits can be used, but I’ve found those toddies to be OK at best. There’s a missing component to those, and I think it’s the barrel-aging.

Third, pick your sugar. Don’t limit yourself to the plain white sugar. Try Demerara sugar. It’s not as sweet as white sugar and adds more of a molasses flavor. Plus, when it’s diluted, it is a little creamier and heavier on the palate. Powdered sugar is awesome in toddies. It adds a flavor akin to cake icing. You can also use honey, agave syrup or maple syrup if you so choose. But, depending on to whom you’re talking, they may disagree that the drink can be referred to as a toddy. If that happens, slap them and take their drink away. Once these decisions are made, the drink is easy as easy can get.

Toddy

CoCkTail ClassifiCaTions At one point in our history, not all drinks containing booze were referred to as cocktails. In fact, a cocktail was a certain type of drink.

A toddy was also a certain type of drink but not a cocktail. Slings, fizzes, fixes, daisies and skins were drinks as well. Here’s a breakdown of what each “class” of drink consisted of: Toddy = water, booze, sugar, nutmeg Skin = water, booze, sugar, lemon peel Sling = booze, water, sugar, nutmeg, ice CoCkTail = booze, water, sugar, bitters, ice SmaSh = booze, water, sugar, mint, berries, ice Julep = booze, water, sugar, mint, ice Sangaree = wine, water, sugar, ice

Fix = booze, sugar, water, lemon juice, seasonal fruit, ice Sour = booze, sugar, water, lemon juice, ice daiSy = booze, lemon juice, orange cordial, simple syrup, ice Fizz = booze, lemon juice, simple syrup, carbonated water, ice CollinS = more booze, lemon juice, simple syrup, carbonated water, ice riCkey = booze, lime juice, carbonated water, ice Cobbler = booze, sugar, orange slices, berries, ice

Serves | 1 |

To make this a little clearer, let me explain. A skin is a toddy with lemon peel and no nutmeg. A sling is a toddy with ice and more booze than water. A cocktail is a sling with bitters and no nutmeg. A smash is a Julep with less booze and berries. A fix is a sour with fruit added to it.

A Collins is a larger fizz.

| Preparation | Fill your glass with 2 oz

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

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4 oz 1 tsp 2 oz 1

water, boiling or cold, divided sugar spirit whole nutmeg, for grating (use fresh-grated, not the granulated stuff)

water, hot or cold. Add your sugar and stir to dissolve. How much you use is up to you.

I prefer about 1 tsp per serving. Once the sugar is dissolved, add your spirit and the rest of the water. Give it a quick stir, grate some nutmeg on it and enjoy.

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Authentic chinese cuisine since 1979 Mandarin House is a well-loved and respected Chinese restaurant in St. Louis. Since it's opening in 1979, Mandarin House has hosted numerous high-profile clients in their 10,600-square-foot, 430-seat restaurant and banquet room. Our banquet room and main dining room can be customized to fit many needs, and you will find that our menu and staff will cater to anything you might want. Call today for your holiday catering needs!

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Stop in to see the newly expanded cake shop Sarah's Cake Shop offers a wide variety of delicious treats daily in their Chesterfield location.

Whether your looking for a custom cake for a special celebration or a small treat to bring a friend.

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December 2012

29

top DECEMBER pICKS

beer

WrITTEn By Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

goose island Beer Co.’s BourBon CounTy sTouT

TempleTon rye

(14.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $19.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIng: Chocolate cake ○ Solo, as an aperitif I do not say this lightly: Goose Island Bourbon County Stout may be the best beer ever made.

It’s a lush and decadent monster that beautifully melds every ingredient together to produce a beer that features the perfect notes of chocolate, vanilla, bourbon and coffee. It may be difficult to find, so if you see it, don’t let it pass you by.

The Civil life Brewing Co.’s BriTish BiTTer

AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $39.99 TrY IT: Neat or in your favorite Manhattan

The good folks in Templeton, Iowa, were making the most prized whiskey in the country during Prohibition. Al Capone and his gang made it famous all over the country. In 2006, production started again, based on the original Prohibition-era recipe, and now it is here in Missouri. With a mash bill of 90 percent rye grains, this is a spicy mouthful of whiskey, which makes it a fantastic cocktail component.

Its notes of caramel, butterscotch and allspice make it equally amazing alone in a glass.

Johnnie walker gold ProVEnAncE: Scotland (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wine and Spirits,

AVAILABLE AT: The Civil Life

multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $109.99 TrY IT: Neat, of course.

It’s always astonishing to see how much flavor Civil Life can pack into a beer that’s only 4.2 percent abv.

What’s most impressive is that this beer is full-flavored while remaining light and refreshing. The British Bitter has a crisp malt body with a gentle hop bite.

laguniTas Brewing Co.’s maximus STYLE: American Double IPA (8.2% abv)

Many scotch fans focus their love on single malts, but blending the best single malts on the planet into one bottle would only lead to a world-class whiskey with even more complexity.

This is what Johnnie Walker has been doing for centuries. The Gold label is a blend of more than 15 single malts, commonly 15 to 18 years old. The Gold was first produced in 1920 to celebrate 100 years of Johnnie Walker whiskeys. It is silkysmooth with a delicious honey-sweet finish and the trademark Walker smokiness.

edinBurgh gin ProVEnAncE: Edinburgh, Scotland (43% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wine and Spirits,

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $28.99

multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIngS: Carne asada ○ Sharp Cheddar

TrY IT: With your favorite tonic and a squeeze of lime

I say that I like Double IPAs to have a light body – that way you can really taste the hops.

However, Maximus’ sticky body actually does a great job accentuating the beer’s hops, providing a viciously viscous, hoppy beer. It will stick to your ribs and maybe to your tongue. I like being proved wrong.

December 2012

ProVEnAncE: Iowa (40% abv)

STYLE: English Bitter (4.2% abv)

Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., Tower Grove South, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com; $5 (16-oz draught) PAIrIngS: Warm pretzels ○ Edam

feastSTL.com

WrITTEn By Chad Michael George

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

STYLE: Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout

30

spirits

Scots have produced gin since the 1700s, and Edinburgh was the epicenter of that production.

Much like their friends in England, the Scots use local botanicals such as juniper, milk thistle, pine and heather to flavor their gin. Edinburgh Gin is a smooth, high-quality distillate. Juniper is the dominant botanical, but there are also strong notes of orange and lemon zest and a smooth, oily and slightly bitter finish.

wine

WRITTeN By Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

AlbAn VIneyArds CentrAl CoAst VIognIer 2011 Provenance: Edna Valley, Calif. available at: Straub’s, 211 W. Lockwood Ave.,

Webster Groves, straubs.com; $26.99 Pairings: Winter bisque ○ Glazed ham ○ Gruyère Known for being a pioneer of the Rhone Rangers of California, John Alban has often been credited with bringing Viognier, a French grape, to California. Blends of bright tropical and stone fruits rounded out with layers of honeysuckle and sweet herbs make up both the stunning nose and the opulent palate of this wine. Its full body and creamy texture make it an exceptional selection for white-wine drinking during the colder red-wine-friendly months.

gAlAxy 2006 Provenance: Napa Valley, Calif. available at: The Wine & Cheese Place,

9755 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, wineandcheeseplace.com; $49.99 Pairings: Grilled steak ○ Venison ○ Stilton From first glance at the deep violet color of this California blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, it’s clear that you’re in for an intense sensory experience. Aromas of dark berry and smoky tobacco hit long before the glass reaches your nose, and then rich flavors of plum and mocha fill your mouth. Given enough time to breathe after opening, this firmly tannic wine will transform into a complex ripe and spicy indulgence.

gonet-MedeVIlle trAdItIon brut, nV Provenance: Champagne, France available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $46.99 Pairings: Baked Brie ○ Smoked fish ○ Quiche

This grower’s Champagne is a traditional blend of 60 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir and 10 percent Pinot Meunier. A highly versatile bubbly, it showcases a wide range of flavors, from peach and apple notes to hints of vanilla and baked bread. Alone, the wine stays clean, crisp and classic, perfect for toasting and predinner enjoyment. With food, its creamy and sometimes spicy qualities emerge.

Inspired Food Culture

December %MO %YEAR 2012

%PG 31

Meet: BruSSelS Sprout StalkS

written by Erik Jacobs PhotograPhy by Jennifer Silverberg

Deep in our primal hunter-gatherer genetic code, it seems we still harbor the desire to conquer the biggest and best to feed our clan. So there is a certain satisfaction in bringing home a fully loaded stalk of Brussels sprouts from the market. Looking like a tropical vegan croquembouche, a stalk of fresh Brussels sprouts is not only a visual treat but also a nutritional superfood.

WhaT Is IT?

Brussels sprouts are a member of the brassica family of vegetables, which includes mustards, crucifers and cabbages. the sprouts are buds of the Brassica oleracea plant and grow upward from a central stem. the taste of Brussels sprouts is milder than that of cabbage, and they have a dense, chewy texture. Modern strains have been engineered to reduce the bitterness that used to define this most maligned vegetable. Purchasing the sprouts still on the stalk does little to improve flavor, but the stalk does continue to give sprouts some nutrients after harvest and allow the sprouts to remain vibrant and fresh longer. hoW Do I use IT?

if you serve your Brussels sprouts boiled to a mealy pulp like your parents did, then please, please, please pay attention. roasting, steaming and braising are much better methods for showcasing the nutty character of the Brussels sprouts. Or try leaving them raw and shaving them thinly for salads. Pairing sprouts with ingredients such as bacon or pancetta, gruyère, balsamic vinegar, or lemon lends support to the natural complexity of the sprout. remove them from the stalk by twisting, not by pulling. the stalk is generally inedible, so the less of it that remains on the sprout, the better and the less prep work you have to do.

Brussels Sprout-Duck Confit Pasta

By TrenT Thrun, Steven Becker Fine Dining

This elegant pasta entrée with rich flavors and lush ingredients is perfect for a dinner party.

Serves | 8 | 16 1 to 2 tsp 2 12 oz ½ cup

Brussels sprouts olive oil shallots, peeled and minced shredded duck confit* dried cranberries

Stop by 32

feastSTL.com

tagliatelle dry white wine chicken stock orange zest slivered almonds, roasted shaved tomme de savoie*

shallots and continue cooking until translucent. Add shredded

| Preparation | Bring a large pot of water to boil. Blanch

orange zest and almonds. Warm until just heated through. Divide

2 lbs ¼ cup 3 cups 2 tsp ½ cup 2 cups

Brussels sprouts for 5 minutes. they will be tender and bright green. remove with a slotted spoon and shock them in a prepared ice bath. cut in half and set aside. Heat olive oil in a sauté pan. Add the Brussels sprouts and turn carefully until golden-brown. Add

duck confit and dried cranberries.

While the duck mixture cooks, boil the pasta until al dente. When the duck mixture starts to crisp, deglaze the pan with wine. Add chicken stock and simmer until reduced by half. Add cooked tagliatelle, pasta among 8 bowls and garnish with tomme de Savoie. * Duck confit and Tomme de Savoie, an Alpine cheese, are both available at The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring Brussels sprouts. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

December 2012

check it out!

Feast extra

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December 2012

33

Make Candy Canes There are a multitude of reasons to make something from scratch – better flavor, better quality, better presentation. But sometimes you make something from scratch because you want the “whoa.” It gives validation to your kitchen skills. In fact, the only thing more satisfying than the whoa is answering the question that always follows: “Did you really make that from scratch?” And the answer is always, “Really, it was no big deal.” To that end, this month we’re making candy canes – yes, candy canes. Start practicing your humble face now because the season of whoa is upon you.

WRITTeN By Brandon chuang IllUSTRATION By Derek Bauman

Keep It SImple Candy canes start out much like simple syrup. To begin, combine 3 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup light corn syrup and 1 cup water in a saucepan over medium heat.

Stir continuously until the sugar dissolves.

Stop stirring, place a candy thermometer into the pan and heat the mixture to 285°F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 225°F and apply nonstick spray to two baking sheets.

pour Some Sugar on me Once the mixture has reached temperature, pour it onto one of the baking sheets. Cool the mixture for about 1 minute so that it becomes malleable. Add 1 Tbsp vanilla and 1 tsp peppermint extract. | 1 | Using a spatula or baker’s blade – the mixture will be too hot to touch – fold the candy over itself until the flavorings are fully incorporated.

|1|

a touch of color Very quickly, the mixture will begin to cool into a putty-like consistency. Separate the mixture into two equal parts. Place one part on the second baking sheet and keep it in the oven to maintain its malleability. To the other half, add 2 to 4 drops of red food coloring. Fold the mixture over itself until the color is fully incorporated.

the long Stretch | 2 | Put on two pairs of kitchen gloves (the candy is still extremely hot on the inside), and stretch out the red candy until it’s about three feet long. Bring the ends together and stretch it again. Continue stretching and folding until the candy takes on a ribbon-like sheen. Once complete, place the red candy in the oven and repeat with the noncolored candy. As you aerate the noncolored candy, it will turn white. Roll each pile of candy into a log roughly 1½ inches in diameter. | 3 | Place the two logs side by side and roll them together into one large red-and-white log.

|2|

hooK ’em Twist and roll one end of the log to make a thinner linear section roughly ½-inch in diameter. The circular motion will create the barber pole stripe ubiquitous to candy canes. | 4 | Cut off an 8-inch length and bend one side to create the candy cane hook.

Place on one of the baking pans and repeat with remaining candy. Wait for the whoas.

|3|

|4|

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No More PlaiN CaNe Now that you’ve mastered the candy cane basics, try mixing in different flavors such as cinnamon or a touch of cayenne. And there’s no limit to the number of colors you can use – simply divvy up the initial candy mixture into however many colors you want and add distinct hues to each part before you combine them. The more, the merrier.

Chicken Dinner Sundays Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires December 30, 2012. Dine-in only.

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Retail and Wholesale For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service.

Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market.

We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

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Join Us for the Holidays Where you are always treated like family.

Chicken, steak, pasta, seafood, salads & sandwiches. Dine-in or carry-out, full bar, large groups, outdoor patio.

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Essentials for Your Home Bar A good all purpose vodka, Absolut can't be beat $13.99.

The Manhattan is hot again, Buffalo Trace Bourbon $17.99.

Dolin Red Vermouth $12.99.

A dash of Fee Brothers bitters $7.49.

Maraschino cherries from Luxardo $15.99.

Milagro Silver Tequila $22.99.

Organic margarita mix from AloeRita $9.99.

A Mexican aphrodisiac. Damiana $24.99.

Locally made Pinckney Bend Gin $27.99.

Old South Tomolives, pickled green tomatoes $2.99 The hottest holiday drink is Rum Chata $18.99.

1910 S. Jefferson. St. Louis • 11000 Old Halls Ferry. St. Louis County • 14201 Manchester Rd. Manchester • shoprandalls.com Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

35

Suckling Pig

STORY And ReCIPe bY Cassy Vires PHOTOgRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

Known by many names around the world – lechón, guling celeng, spanferkel, cochon de lait – many cultures feature suckling pig as the traditional centerpiece of a holiday meal or special celebration. The pig was one of the first animals to be raised for food. It is only natural that someone would come up with the idea of cooking a young piglet for its tender, delicious meat. And we should thank that person because it was pure genius.

Suckling pig is a pig that is still fed on its mother’s milk. A true suckling pig should be around 20 pounds and slaughtered between 2 and 6 weeks of age. Typically a pig up to 40 pounds is still considered a suckling pig as long as the piglet remained on a liquid diet and was slaughtered no later than 10 weeks.

Meat from larger piglets is still delicious but not as tender or fatty. Younger pigs have a lot of natural collagen in them, giving the meat and pan drippings a gelatinous texture and making the skin incredibly crispy and crackled, which is a true treat.

Roasting a suckling pig is incredibly easy.

I would say foolproof, but then someone would prove me wrong. Suckling pigs are traditionally roasted on their bellies with their arms and legs tucked under them for maximum skin exposure. Have I mentioned that the crispy skin is divine? The ears will easily burn, so covering them with a little foil is a good preventative measure. The traditional apple in the mouth makes for great presentation, but it also has important purposes. The open mouth allows some of the steam to escape from inside the pig. Also, without something in the pig’s mouth (a ball of foil works fine), the face tends to droop in an unpleasant way. If the roasted pig is going to be a centerpiece, it should be beautiful.

The most difficult part is sourcing the pig.

Suckling Pig

Suckling pig is such a wonderful treat and really simple to make. The key is the crackling, crisp skin, which will provide a wonderful crunch next to the juicy, tender meat. Serve as the centerpiece with a simple salad and sides

Your best bet is to order one online from

of roasted vegetables.

a reputable source, but I would certainly recommend checking with local farmers.

High-end butcher shops will also specialorder them, especially during the holidays.

Make sure you ask them to clean the pig.

This includes removing the entrails and

Serves | 8 to 10 | 1

sometimes the eyes and thoroughly cleaning the pig. After that, you just have to get over how incredibly adorable your dinner is before you cook it. The rest is gravy − literally. The pan drippings make the best gravy ever.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

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4 heads 4 2 2 2 sprigs 2 sprigs 2 sprigs 1

suckling pig (20 lbs is ideal) salt and freshly ground black pepper garlic, peeled onions, chopped lemons, quartered oranges, quartered rosemary thyme oregano small apple

| Preparation |

Rinse the suckling pig under cold water and place on a sheet pan large enough to hold it. Season liberally with salt and pepper and place uncovered in the fridge overnight.

Preheat the oven to 275°F. Season the inside cavity of the pig with salt and pepper and stuff with garlic, onion, lemons, oranges and herbs. Sew the cavity closed with a needle and kitchen twine.

Place the pig, back side up, on the roasting pan with its arms and legs tucked under it.

Season again with salt and pepper. Cover the

ears with aluminum foil and place a ball of aluminum foil in the pig’s mouth.

Roast for 3½ to 4 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 160°F. Remove the foil from the ears and mouth. Replace the foil from the mouth with a small apple if you’d like. Turn the oven temperature up as high as it will go – around 500°F is ideal. Return the pig to the oven and cook an additional 30 minutes or until the skin is crisp and crackling. The skin may start to split, which is OK. Remove from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes before serving. Remove the twine from the belly and serve whole with small tongs for guests to serve themselves.

 

  

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts.

If you want to learn more, check out our video library at schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions.

At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

Eggnog Create your own eggnog, or stirred custard, this holiday season! Make everyone’s favorite holiday drink by watching our step-by-step how-to video and recipe online. Here are a few steps to get started.



Eggnog is made by cooking eggs, sugar and half-and-half.

on medium Stir constantly about 13-16 minutes  Mix in remaining ingredients. heat. The mixture is ready Cover and refrigerate at least two hours when it can hold its shape on the back of a spoon.

before serving.

Visit schnuckscooks.com for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more! ©2012 Schnucks

Inspired Food Culture

December %MO %YEAR 2012

%PG 37

handheld Milk Frothers

BonJour CAFé lAtte Milk FrotHer

BoduM sCHiuMA Milk FrotHer

AerolAtte steAM Free Milk FrotHer

PROS

PROS

PROS

This hefty frother sits pretty on the counter in a swirl of chrome. Park it next to your coffeemaker and froth away.

Four batteries keep this baby purring through the milk as it expands to a fine creaminess for homemade lattes, cappuccinos and mochas. The frothing head, a tiny wave-like disc, differs significantly from the whisking heads, but it churns out impressive results.

There’s an informative instruction book, with recipes included, in the box.

When an extra-long shaft meets a small, tightly wound whisk head in this frother from the coffee mavens at Bodum, milks whip up into fizzy foams in a trice. The shaft snuggles into the handle housing on a spring, which cushions the bounce if you hit the sides of your mug as you froth.

Loved the results, especially the lush froth of very cold skim milk. Available in no-nonsense black and bright colors, including purple.

This lightweight frother whooshed skim milk and soy milk into thick, finely textured foam in a flash. Almond milk and whole milk frothed more halfheartedly with bigger bubbles but still made the prettiest cocoas and coffees. The plastic handle’s easy to grip and the on/off switch locks in place as it whirls. Comes with batteries, a plastic case for storage and an instruction sheet with simple recipes.

CONS

CONS

CONS

Four batteries (which aren’t included) require a bigger handle, so check the grip before you buy. The switch, which is on top of the unit, doesn’t lock in place. Keeping the button depressed can be hard on thumbs.

The battery and switch cap isn’t easy to remove and replace. The go button slides across the cap. It took me awhile to figure out how to make it whirr because there are no instructions and no graphics on the tool to guide you.

The cover of the battery case skitters rather than slides back into place on this model, but it’s a small quibble, easily remedied with patience.

$21.95; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, terrastl.com

$14.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

WrITTeN By Pat eby PhoToGrAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

AerolAtte HAndHeld Milk FrotHer

GeFu GeniAl Geniessen Milk FrotHer

PROS

PROS

Neither too heavy nor too light, the heft on this frother was just right for me. This upscale model features all stainless-steel construction, a sturdy shaft and frothing head, and an easyto-remove-and-replace battery cap.

Foams whip creamier, faster and higher in less time with the Aerolatte frothers.

CONS

This compact, lightweight tool features a soft-touch coating on its handle that provides a secure, comfortable grip. A side switch clicks in easily and holds steady as it froths.

The designers at Gefu put more wiggle in the shaft. It rotates in a tight circle to create creamy, smooth foam. Almond milk whipped creamiest with this frother. Batteries included.

No negatives on this zippy frother. A storage case would be a nice addition.

CONS

$19.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

$19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

The more flexible shaft is the shortest of the bunch, so gauge shaft length to mug size before you froth. The battery cover is easy to remove, but it takes some wrangling to to work it back on. $19.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

Che

Ck o pag ut e

WHAt to look For : HaNdleS: Whipping up a good froth takes less than a minute, but to

minimize the stress from twists and bends on hands and wrists, find a handle that fits comfortably. A nonslip grip is a nice feature, but for this tool, comfort rules.

SwitCHeS: If the on switch doesn’t lock in place, make sure you can depress and hold the switch without pain.

SHaft aNd fROtHiNg Head: All the frothers tested use stainless steel

for the shaft and the frothing head – an important feature. Check that the shaft feels sturdy. Make sure the head attaches firmly. Where the

38

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December 2012

shaft meets the handle, look for a collar or spring that reinforces the connection and prevents liquid splashes up into the battery housing. fROtHiNg MOxie: Faster frothers delivered the thickest heads of foams in the shortest time.

CleaNuP: Dishwashers and frothers don’t play well together. Cleanup’s

easy but should happen right after you make the froth. Switch on the head in soapy water, rinse, wipe down the shaft and the housing with a lightly damp cloth, and dry with a soft dishtowel.

44!

Grab your favorite frother and whip up some creative cocktails at your next party. For more fun drink ideas, turn to Building A Better Bar.

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Stone Hill Winery's Hermannsberger Mulled Wine One of many mulled wine recipes, this one is simple and unassuming. An even simpler way to make mulled wine is to purchase a bag of mulled wine spices and just drop it in the wine before heating. We carry the small spice bags in our well-appointed Hermann, New Florence and Branson winery gift shops.

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups boiling water 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 lemon, sliced 2 whole cloves

2 sticks of cinnamon 1 bottle (750 ml) of Stone Hill Winery Hermannsberger nutmeg

Combine boiling water, sugar, lemon, cinnamon and cloves: stir until sugar dissolves. Add wine; simmer 20 minutes. Do not boil. Strain.

Serve hot with a sprinkling of nutmeg.

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Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!

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106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville • 618.307.4830

Celebrate Bavarian Advent und Weihnachten Celebrate Christmas with authentic Bavarian specialties. Braised Duck,Wild Boar, Lamb, old fashion Potato Dumplings, Festbier Roast, Red Cabbage, Spatzle, Wurst Sampler, Schnitzel, Apple Strudel, and Kuechle.

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1415 McKinley St. • Mascoutah • 618.566.4884 • roemertopfllc.com 40

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December 2012

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4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs 639-939-0800 • www.suntrupbpg.com *See dealer for details. Ad vehicle not compatible with any other dealer promotions.

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

41

biTe-Size delighTS A spectacular French dessert, croquembouche was first made by the renowned chef Antoine Carème.

The name translates to “crunch in the mouth,” as each profiterole that makes up this decadent display has a lightly crisp exterior that gives way to its cream-filled center. This beautiful and delicious creation announces a celebratory occasion such as a wedding, baptism, or party at a special time of

STORy And ReCIPe By Gabrielle DeMichele PhOTOgRAPhy By Jennifer Silverberg

year. Although the croquembouche is the pièce de résistance, you want the rest of the meal to be special as well. That’s why we’ve paired this dessert with succulent rack of lamb, a princely entrée in its own right. Creamy potato and celeriac gratin complements the gaminess of the lamb, and roasted cauliflower adds earthy flavor to the meal.

croquembouche Serves | 16 | PÂte à Choux

| Preparation – Pâte à Choux | Preheat oven

| Preparation – Café Crème Filling | Place

| Preparation – Toppings | heat the cream

1 cup 6 Tbsp 1 Tbsp ¼ tsp 2/3 cup 4

to 425°F. Combine water, butter, sugar and

egg yolks, sugar, ½ cup coffee liqueur and ½ tsp

over medium heat until hot but not boiling. Place

salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the

instant espresso in the top of a double boiler.

the chopped chocolate in a mixing bowl. Pour the

flour all at once and remove from heat. Beat

Continuously whip the mixture with a whisk or a

hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for 2 to

with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes

hand mixer until tripled in volume. Remove the top

3 minutes. Whisk ganache until smooth and set

together and forms a ball. Transfer the dough

pan from the double boiler and set aside to cool.

aside to cool to room temperature.

water butter sugar salt flour extra-large eggs

to a mixing bowl and let cool for 3 to 4 minutes.

Café Crème filling

8 ½ cup ¾ cup

egg yolks sugar coffee liqueur, such as Copa de Oro or Tia Maria, divided instant espresso, divided unflavored gelatin cold water heavy cream powdered sugar

2 tsp 2 tsp 8 Tbsp 2 cups 6 Tbsp toPPings

1 cup 2 cups 1 jar

heavy cream chopped bittersweet chocolate fine caramel or salted-caramel topping

With a hand mixer set on the lowest speed,

In a small saucepan, combine gelatin and water

| To Assemble | Cut a small slit in the top of

add eggs one at a time. Make sure each egg is

and let stand until thick. Place the saucepan over

each puff and fill with the café crème. On a cake

completely incorporated before you add the

low heat, stirring constantly until the gelatin

stand or serving platter, assemble the puffs in

next. Once all eggs have been added and the

dissolves. Set aside to cool completely.

a circle. Top some with the ganache and drizzle

mixture is smooth, place the dough into a piping

some with the caramel. Stack the next layer of

bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe immediately

In a large chilled bowl, combine heavy cream,

puffs, creating a circle that is smaller than

into golf-ball-size rounds spaced 2 inches apart

powdered sugar, remaining coffee liqueur and

the base. Top with ganache and caramel,

on parchment-lined sheet pans. Bake for 10

remaining instant espresso. Beat with an electric

and continue until you have reached

minutes. Turn the oven down to 350°F and bake

mixer until the cream becomes slightly thickened.

the final layer of your tree. Fill in

10 more minutes or until golden-brown. Remove

Reduce the speed of the mixer to low and add

any empty spots with smaller

from oven and immediately pierce with a paring

the gelatin to the whipped cream until combined.

puffs. drizzle the finished

knife to release steam.

Return the mixer to medium-high and continue to

croquembouche with more

beat until firm. Fold the whipped cream mixture

ganache and caramel.

into the egg mixture until combined.

chef’S tipS : Building a Better CroquemBouChe. When piping the pâte à choux, be sure to create evenly sized rounds. This will help keep your tree straight and balanced. If you do not have a pastry bag, you can use two spoons. As you reach the last of the pastry, create a few smaller rounds you can later use to fill

in empty spots in your tree. While assembling the croquembouche, turn the serving plate often and survey your work to back to ensure that your structure is straight. If you want to employ an advanced technique, drizzle the tree with spun sugar, the traditional topping for this dessert.

H LIDAYS AT POWELL HALL 314-534-1700 stlsymphony.org

DECEMBER 7-9

MESSIAH PRESENTED BY MERCY

DECEMBER 14-16

CIRCUS FLORA

A CHILD’S CHRISTMAS IN WALES PRESENTED BY THE SPONSORED BY

42

feastSTL.com

December 2012

WHITAKER FOUNDATION PNC BANK MARYILYN & SAM FOX

JOIN US! RSVP:

schnuckscook s.com 314.909.1704

Make the ○

Meal: Rack of lamb

Potato and cele riac gratin ○ Ro asted cauliflow er ○ Cro quembouche ○

learn MOr

e: In this month’s cooking class, you will learn ho w to french lamb chops an d make and fill puff pastry. W e’ll also stabili ze whipped cream , which is a grea t skill for creating cream fillings and whipped cr eam frosting, and we’ll perfe ct the drizzling technique, key to creating beautiful desse rts. ○

get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., dec. 19, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RsVP at schnuckscooks.com.

MENT

EVE ON

DECEMBER 20

A GOSPEL CHRISTMAS WITH TAKE 6

DECEMBER 21-23

HOLIDAY CELEBRATION PRESENTED BY MACY’S

DECEMBER 28-30

PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN Presentation licensed by Disney Music Publishing and Walt Disney Studios Motion Pictures, Non-Theatrical © Disney

DECEMBER 31

M&I WEALTH MANAGEMENT

NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

43

building

a

better

BAR

Story And recipeS by Matt sorrell photogrAphy by Jonathan Gayman

The holidays are here, which means it’s time for parties, reunions and get-togethers of all types.

Anyone can put out the usual beer and wine and call it a day, but why not really impress your thirsty guests this season by stirring and shaking up some serious cocktails? From must-have spirits and bar tools to essential recipes and techniques, we’ve compiled an exhaustive rundown of tips and tricks for getting your home bar – and your cocktailing skills – up to snuff.

the booze the tools the glassware the ingredients and the recipes to pull it all together!

the ideal bar Nowadays, liquoR sToRes are fullto-bursting with an overwhelming variety of spirits, liqueurs, fortified wines, amaros and other sundry ingredients. A big part of the fun of mixology is getting hold of some esoteric bottlings and experimenting with them. But before you start looking for the odd or unusual, it’s imperative you have the required and the necessary. A great many drinks, both classic and modern, utilize the same basic components. Here are some spirits and mixing items you should always have on hand. Keep in mind that this list is based on relative quality and price, but taste should be the final arbiter of what you keep behind the bar. There are thousands of spirit variants out there, and just as many flavors and nuances, so taste around and find what you like.

SPIRITS

Whiskeys. Have at least one of each of these within easy reach. ○ BourBon Bargain: Four Roses Yellow Label Mid-range: Buffalo Trace; Wild Turkey Sky’s the Limit: Blanton’s; Noah’s Mill ○ rye Bargain: Old Overholt Mid-range: Rittenhouse Sky’s the Limit: Hudson Manhattan Rye ○ Scotch Bargain: Dewar’s (blend) Mid-range: Glenlivet 12-year (single-malt) Sky’s the Limit: Balvenie 15-year (single-malt) Tequila. Good tequila is essential for classics like the Margarita. Remember, quality tequila will always have “100 percent agave,” or words to that effect, on the label. If it doesn’t, it’s a mixto, an amalgam of various sugars and colorings, and not worth picking up.

Bargain: Espolón Blanco or Reposado Mid-range: Milagro Blanco or Reposado Sky’s the Limit: Avion; Patrón

MIXERS

Gin. A solid London Dry-style of gin is the basis of numerous classic cocktails. It’s also important to have the more modern styles of gin on hand. ○ London dry Bargain: Beefeater Mid-range: Tanqueray Sky’s the Limit: Botanica ○ Modern Bargain: Death’s Door Mid-range: Hendrick’s Sky’s the Limit: Nolet’s Rum. A quality rum is a must-have for standbys like the Daiquiri.

Bargain: DonQ Gold Mid-range: Flor de Caña Sky’s the Limit: Plantation Grande Reserve Vodka Bargain: Pearl Mid-range: Absolut Sky’s the Limit: Crystal Head

These basic mixers are called for again and again in cocktail recipes. Be advised that vermouths are fortified wines, and like any other vino, they should be refrigerated after they’re opened.

sWeeT VeRmouTh Bargain: Dolin Rouge Mid-range: Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Sky’s the Limit: Carpano Antica

dRy VeRmouTh Bargain: Cinzano Mid-range: Noilly Prat Sky’s the Limit: Imbue

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Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

47

tools of the trade The Basics

One of the beauties of hoMe Bartending is that you don’t need a ton of equipment to get started.

Pick up these basic items and you’re ready to mix.

Boston shaker. This shaker has two parts, a pint glass (or similar-size metal tin) and a larger metal shaker that fits over it. The pint portion is also used for stirring cocktails. Most professional bartenders use this style because there are only two pieces to it, and if the glass breaks, it’s easy to find another. Three-piece shakers called cobbler shakers, which have a cap and built-in strainer, are also available. They work just as well but have more pieces to keep track of.

Bar spoons. These are long-handled spoons used to stir cocktails. They usually have a slightly concave bowl that can be used for adding small amounts of ingredients to the drink.

Jiggers. These cone-shaped measuring cups have two sides, each with a different volume, such as 1½ oz and ¾ oz. Many bartenders use clear 2-oz measuring cups made by Oxo instead of traditional metal jiggers since they have a large range of incremental measurements and can be read more easily in a dark bar. strainers. These fit over the top of your mixing glass to make sure only the final cocktail and not the ice and other stray bits end up in the glass. There are two basic types: the Hawthorne strainer, with its distinctive spring around the edge, and the Julep strainer, which looks like a big perforated spoon. The Hawthorne is generally used for shaken drinks, and the Julep is most commonly used with stirred cocktails.

hand Juicers. These come in a variety of sizes for different types of citrus. Get something sturdy and easy to keep at hand, as you’ll be using it a lot.

Muddlers. These blunt rods are used to gently crush ingredients like fruits and herbs to release their flavors. They are normally made of metal or wood; for wooden versions, make sure there’s no varnish or other coatings, as these can come off and end up in your drink. paring or channel knife.

For cutting and slicing garnishes.

The NexT LeveL Once you have your basic kit in place, it’s time to start looking for high-end bar toys to play around with. If money were no object, Cory Cuff, assistant food and beverage manager at Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, says he’d pick up an Alessi juicer and the Perlini Carbonated Cocktail System, which adds bubbles to individual drinks.

“For my personal use, I’d love an ice machine at home,” says Lindsay Baker, bar manager at Franco.

“Besides that, any really ornate barware always catches my eye, be it a Japanese-style mixing glass or bitters bottle or a set of silver-plated Blue Blazer mugs.” Tony Saputo of Eclipse lusts after a device by Nite Owl (niteowleurope.com) that frosts glasses with dry ice. “It’s the Jersey Shore of bar tools,” he says. “But it’s nice to have a bubbling cocktail without a hunk of dry ice in it.”

ShoppiNg Area retailers have some of these tools available.

“For simple tools that I’m not buying in bulk, Randall’s on Jefferson Avenue is my go-to,” says Saputo. “For more specific or uncommon items, Kitchen Conservatory in Clayton is amazing.”

Online resources also abound. Cocktailkingdom. com and barproducts.com are two of the most popular websites used by pros for the basics as well as high-end equipment. Chris Muether of Danno’s American Pub also recommends browsing etsy.com. “As it’s all unique or homemade, you’ll pay a pretty penny for much of it, but you get what you pay for,” he says.

Inspired Food Culture

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49

other ingredients Fresh Fruit And Juices. Keep some fresh citrus on hand for garnishes. A fragrant lemon peel, a lime wedge on the edge of the glass or a spiral of orange draped over the side will make your drink even more appealing.

And fresh juices are a must-have in order to make a good cocktail. Although some juices, like orange, cranberry and grapefruit, can be purchased commercially with no ill effects, lemon and lime juice must be fresh-squeezed by you and used within one or two hours. Period.

Bitters. At the very least, you’ll need Angostura and Peychaud’s on the bar if you want to make any classic recipes requiring bitters.

Once you have these two essentials, you can start experimenting with the hundreds of custom concoctions on the market. Some good go-to brands include The Bitter Truth, Bittercube and Bittermens. “I love Fee Bros. Whiskey Barrel-Aged bitters,” says Muether. “They’re actually not too bitter, but they’re great with so many darker spirits.”

syrups. Many drinks require a little something sweet to round them out. Sometimes a sugar cube is used, as in traditional drinks like the Old Fashioned. But more often than not, the sweetness is added via simple syrup, also referred to as bar syrup. There are some commercial versions available, but many use additives and questionable ingredients. Making your own simple syrup is easy – and much tastier.

cherries. Many brands of cherries intended to augment cocktails are funky neonred and packed in heavy syrup that can affect the taste of the cocktail. Avoid these low-end versions and look for Luxardo cherries. They’re pitted and

Alcohol Aside, there are some other ingredients that are required for building a fine libation.

Garnish rules

candied in Marasca syrup; ultra-tasty but also really pricey. Fresh Bing cherries, when they’re in season, make for a quality substitute.

olives. It’s a good idea to keep olives on hand, but make sure they’re the traditional pitted green variety. Olives that are too large or stuffed with things like blue cheese take away from the aesthetics and nuanced flavors of the drink.

simple syrup

Yield | approx. 1½ cups | 1 cup 1 cup

pure cane sugar water

| Preparation | In a medium saucepan, combine ingredients and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and let simmer for 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and cool. Strain into a bottle and refrigerate. Keeps indefinitely.

| Variations | Try substituting a different type of sugar, such as turbinado or Demerara. To make cinnamon syrup, add 2 cinnamon sticks at the beginning and remove before bottling. Or add 3 oz of 100 percent pomegranate juice to 1 oz of simple syrup for basic grenadine.

At one time it was de rigueur to augment cocktails with a pile of fruit the size of Carmen Miranda’s headdress. But today, economy, taste and functionality are what bartenders consider when contemplating a garnish. According to Cuff, there are three basic questions to ask yourself when creating a garnish: “Does it make sense? Are the flavor combinations recognizable? Does it serve the same function as throwing parsley around a plate because it needs color? If the answer to the last question is ‘yes,’ don’t use it.”

“A garnish should lend something to the cocktail aside from adding to the visual appeal,” says Baker. “Fresh herbs are one of my favorite things to garnish with because they add a really great bouquet as you bring the drink to your mouth.” She adds that it’s crucial to “spank” (i.e., lightly slap) herbs before placing them in the drink to release their aromas.

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MUSIC AND EVENTS CALENDAR

Over The River & Through The Woods...

Imagine a cozy winter lodge overlooking rolling hills with a crackling fireplace, delicious food, tantalizing wines, seasonal beers, mulled cider, music and more. It’s all at Chandler Hill and we’re just minutes away!

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Saturday, December 1 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Kevin Bilchik

ERIN BODE HOLIDAY CONCERT!

Sunday, December 2 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Adonis Blue

Sunday, December 9th

Friday, December 7 - 6:00pm to 9:00pm Acoustics Anonymous Saturday, December 8 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Lucky Dan & Naked Mike Sunday, December 9 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm One Take Band 6:00pm to 10:00pm Erin Bode Friday, December 14 - 6:00pm to 9:00pm Jason Garms Duo Saturday, December 15 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Rosewood 6:00pm to 9:00pm Kevin Babb Sunday, December 16 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Falling Martins Friday, December 21 - 6:00pm to 9:00pm Dan Hoerle Saturday, December 22 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Blue 66 Sunday, December 23 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Downstereo Friday, December 28 - 6:00pm to 9:00pm Stuart Johnson Saturday, December 29 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Kevin Bilchik 6:00pm to 9:00pm Jim McClaren Sunday, December 30 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Nick Calandero Monday, December 31 - 9:00pm to Midnight Soulard Blues Band 596 Defiance Road Defiance, MO 63341 636.798.2675 Visit Us Online for Early Closing & More Special Events!

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NEW YEAR’S EVE AT CHANDLER HILL! Monday, December 31st 8:00pm - Midnight Usher in the New Year at the area’s premier venue.

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Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

51

glassware For the most part, glassware is an individual choice. Some people enjoy sipping a Manhattan from a coupe, while others prefer a rocks glass. It’s important to note that many modern cocktail glasses are much larger than they need to be. Of course, drinks served with ice need to be served in something fairly large, like a rocks or highball glass. But many cocktail recipes are in the 3- to 4-oz range and require a proportional glass to look elegant and inviting. If the glass is too big, the drink looks puny.

unique finds Antique malls and thrift stores are great places to seek out vintage and unusual glassware. Matt Seiter, bar manager at Sanctuaria, recommends St. Vincent de Paul Thrift Store, 4928 Christy Blvd., as well as TFA (The Future Antiques), 6514 Chippewa St.; Treasure Aisles Antique Mall, 2317 S. Big Bend Blvd.; and Big Bend Antique Gallery, 2337 S. Big Bend Blvd. The key to finding treasures at these venues is to browse them often, as inventory continually changes.

sOLid BAsiCs If you don’t have the time or patience to make the rounds regularly, Baker recommends surlatable.com for good, straightforward glassware. And cocktailkingdom.com recently began offering quantities of coupes as well. For those who want to see and feel their purchases before plunking down their cash, a decent selection of basic glasses can be found at Crate & Barrel.

classic cocktail recipes

Manhattan Serves | 1 | 2 oz 1 oz 2 to 3 dashes

rye whiskey sweet vermouth Angostura bitters cherry, for garnish

It’s time to sling some drinks. Here are some classic recipes that are plenty tasty on their own and also provide a basis for untold creative variants.

This recipe is for an über-dry post-Prohibition version of the King of Cocktails. For a “wetter” version, try the pre-Prohibition recipe below.

Serves | 1 |

| Preparation | Combine whiskey,

3 oz 1/8 oz

vermouth and bitters in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry.

| Preparation | Fill a mixing glass with ice.

| Variations | This is the Big Daddy of

Now that your bar IS ProPErly outFIttED,

Modern Extra-Dry Martini

boozy cocktails, and it can be reconfigured into manifold permutations with little effort. For example, instead of the 1 oz of sweet vermouth, cut it to ½ oz and add ½ oz dry vermouth for a Perfect Manhattan.

Use Punt e Mes vermouth and add ¼ oz maraschino liqueur and it’s considered a Red Hook. Just changing the rye out for bourbon or using a different type of bitters will alter the flavor dramatically.

London Dry gin dry vermouth green olive, for garnish

Pour vermouth over ice, stir gently and then strain out vermouth. Pour gin over seasoned ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a green olive.

Pre-Prohibition Martini Serves | 1 | 1½ oz 1½ oz 1 to 2 dashes

London Dry gin dry vermouth orange bitters lemon peel

| Preparation | Stir gin, vermouth and bitters with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Twist a lemon peel over the top.

Negroni

Vesper

The Negroni is traditionally served neat, but for those who prefer it on the rocks, this drink can be built over ice in a rocks glass.

The most common variation on the martini is to replace the gin with vodka. However another popular take on this drink, The Vesper, uses both. This is also known as The James Bond Martini.

Serves | 1 | ¾ oz ¾ oz ¾ oz

London Dry gin Campari sweet vermouth

| Preparation | Stir all ingredients with ice for approximately 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

| Variation | Try substituting vodka for the gin. And replace the Campari with another amaro, such as Cynar or Aperol.

The key is keeping all the parts equal.

Serves | 1 | 2 oz ½ oz ¼ oz

London Dry gin vodka Lillet Blanc lemon twist, for garnish

| Preparation | Shake gin, vodka and Lillet Blanc with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Sours A sour is a classification of drink as opposed to a specific cocktail. The sour formula provides the bones for any number of drinks, such as Margaritas, Daiquiris and Sidecars.

Just mix and match your favorite ingredients and see what you can come up with.

Serves | 1 | 2 oz 1 oz ¾ oz

base spirit sweetener sour juice

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients and shake with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or an ice-filled rocks or highball glass.

how-to VIDEoS! Scan the tag to watch BC’s Kitchen’s Justin Cardwell make his version of a Sidecar. Head to the Multimedia section of feastSTL.com to see him make a Chai Flip.

Inspired Food Culture

December %MO %YEAR 2012

%PG 55

holiday cocktail recipes

Simple Hot Buttered Rum

Spiked Hot Chocolate

You can play with a variety of baking spices here. Try adding clove or allspice.

This can also be made with hot apple cider in place of the water.

The beauty of this drink is that you can use whatever spirit moves you at the moment.

For a straight boozy punch, bourbon or dark rum works well. For a little less alcohol and some added complexity, try a liqueur such as Benedictine, Drambuie or Tuaca.

Serves | 1 | 4 oz 2 oz 1 tsp ½ tsp 1

boiling water spiced rum honey unsalted butter cinnamon stick

| Preparation | Rinse a mug with some of the boiling water. Add the rest of the water, rum, honey and butter. Stir until the butter is dissolved and add the cinnamon stick.

HERE aRE a FEw Cold-wEatHER CoMFoRt drinks guaranteed to warm up your holiday get-together.

Serves | 1 | 3 Tbsp 8 oz 1 oz

hot-chocolate mix hot milk preferred spirit whole nutmeg orange peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Place the hot-chocolate mix in a mug and add just enough hot milk to make a paste. Add remaining milk and the spirit of your choosing. Stir until incorporated.

Grate fresh nutmeg on top and garnish with an orange peel. It’s also great with a flamed peel (see sidebar).

Eggnog

Modern Porteree

Nogs are frequently made in punch-size quantities, but this single-serving recipe is great for small gatherings. Other spirits, such bourbon, can easily replace the brandy.

Stouts and porters are perfect for quaffing on a winter’s eve, and the addition of the syrup and sherry give the beer even more depth. A little grated nutmeg makes another nice aromatic addition to this drink.

Serves | 1 | 1 1 oz 2 oz 1 Tbsp

egg heavy cream brandy powdered sugar grated nutmeg, for garnish

Serves | 1 | 12 oz 2 Tbsp 1 oz

A RECIPE FOR GREAT FLOORING

porter maple syrup Oloroso sherry orange peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Dry shake (without ice)

| Preparation | Pour the porter and maple

the egg and cream. Add ice, brandy and powdered sugar and shake again. Strain into a mug or juice glass and top with nutmeg.

syrup in a pint glass and stir until syrup is wellincorporated. Top with the sherry and garnish with a flamed orange peel (see sidebar).

&

hOw tO flame an OranGe Peel To flame an orange peel, slice a small disc of peel from a ripe orange, avoiding taking too much pith. Heat the peel over the flame from a lighter and, keeping the flame lit, squeeze the peel. The oil expelled from the peel will cause the flame to flare. Immediately add the peel to your drink.

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the next step shrubs. there are several ingredients in the

Once yOu have the basics under yOur belt, you can move on to some of these more advanced bar projects.

infusiOns. if you really want to create a one-of-a-kind drink, make your own flavored spirits. custom creations can be as simple or as involved as you care to make them. to begin, it’s easiest to use a neutral spirit, such as Everclear or vodka, as it won’t impart any extraneous flavors.

Start with a standard 750-ml bottle of spirits. chop up your favorite fruit or vegetable, making sure to remove pits, cores, stems or anything that might produce bitterness, and add it to the alcohol. Let the infusion do its magic in a cool, dark place. check it daily until it has achieved the flavor you’re after. Once you determine that it’s done, strain out the bits and your infusion is ready to use. Since infusions are alcohol-based, they’ll keep indefinitely, just like any other spirit. after you get your legs, you can start combining flavors – try ginger and peaches – and experimenting with more complex spirits as bases.

Flavorful cordials can be made with similar techniques. Jamie Kilgore, bartender at cielo, says a simple cranberry cordial can be made by pulsing 2 cups of fruit in a food processor, and then adding it to 750 ml of a neutral grain spirit such as vodka. Let the cordial rest in a dark, cool-to-roomtemperature place for two weeks, shaking it every couple of days. then cut the finished product with simple syrup made with 1½ cups water and 1½ cups sugar, and you have a tasty addition to any cocktail. advanced practitioners can play with more complex spirits such as rum or cognac. if you’re in a real hurry to get results, Eric Scholle, manager and wine director at Farmhaus, recommends puréeing herbs in a blender. “Blanch your herbs first for just a second or two, then immediately purée them with your liquor of choice,” says Scholle. “then strain the herbs back out and you’re ready to go.” not only is this concoction delicious, but some herbs, like mint, basil and cilantro, produce a vibrant green color that will wow your guests. a good ratio to follow is 750 ml of spirits to 1 to 2 cups of herbs. Vodka is the most obvious spirit to use, but Scholle’s had success with gin and even dry vermouth. another blender trick Scholle uses is macerating berries in sugar for a couple of hours and puréeing them. the resulting sauce can be added right into a 750-ml bottle of vodka or gin.

drinking world called shrubs. For our purposes here, it refers to syrup containing acid, fruit and sugar. Shrubs were originally a way to preserve fruit, but creative bartenders have utilized them to ramp up their cocktail creations, bringing sweetness as well as tartness to the final product. Some shrubs are fairly time-intensive, but Joel clark from Sanctuaria has a shrub recipe that’s both quick and tasty.

18-hour cold shrub

By Joel Clark, Sanctuaria

Clark says berries and peaches work best, as they tend to have more juice.

Yield | Approx. 1½ cups | 1 cup 1 cup ½ cup

diced fruit of choice sugar apple cider vinegar

| Preparation | combine fruit and sugar in a bowl to macerate. refrigerate for 12 hours. remove and let sit at room temperature for 6 more hours. Strain the juice into a bottle or jar with a lid. you should have approximately 1 cup. add vinegar to the juice to finish. Shrub will keep in the refrigerator up to 2 months.

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the next step

DehyDrateD Liqueurs. One mixology trend making the rounds is using dehydrated liqueurs in cocktails. Justin Cardwell, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, has been playing around with the concept. Put a small quantity of your chosen liqueur in a silicone baking cup or similar vessel, and then place it in the oven for a minimum of three to four hours at 160°F to 180°F. Any hotter and the liqueur will caramelize instead of dehydrate.

The resulting crystals can be added to cocktails for a subtle addition of flavor. Make sure to keep them in a sealed container in a cool, dark place. If the powder clumps, simply break it up with a spoon. Cardwell has successfully dehydrated Campari, Aperol, and Green and Yellow Chartreuse, among others. He recommends alcademics.com for further tips.

sous-ViDe CoCktaiLs. Cuff discovered that this popular vacuum-cooking technique has applications behind the bar as well as in the kitchen. He came up with the idea while in culinary school and recently has been experimenting with sous-vide cocktails at The Four Seasons, breaking down the flavors of classics like the Zombie and the Negroni, and then reassembling them. For the Negroni, he placed some gin in a FoodSaver bag along with a variety of botanicals that mimic what he tastes in the standard cocktail. In the case of the Negroni, this includes gentian root, burnt orange peel and shiitake mushroom. He then submerged the bag in a water bath heated to 130°F to 150°F, below the boiling point for the alcohol, for three hours. “The result is a one-alcohol,

complete cocktail,” he says, requiring only stirring with ice. The final product is kept bottled and refrigerated. Cuff says the color isn’t quite as brilliant as that of the standard Negroni, but the taste is spot-on. Try your own experiment with your favorite libation or with a completely new flavor profile.

MoLeCuLar MixoLogy. For those who want to get scientific with their drinks, check out the Molecule-R Cocktail R-Evolution molecular mixology kit. It comes with additives such as calcium lactate and soy lecithin as well as a 30-recipe DVD. You’ll be whipping up your own one-of-akind foams and “caviar” pearls in no time (molecule-r.com).

Holiday Party tiPs Here are some tips from the pros on throwing a successful holiday soiree.

“I like to have themes in mind. That way I know what direction the spirits and flavors are going, what glassware to buy, what food to serve, etc. It all has to be a cohesive package at the end of the day.” – Cory Cuff, Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis “If you’re actually looking to have fun at your party, make a punch. Punches are all the rage these days. You can show off that crazy new punch bowl you found on Cherokee Street when you were looking for coupe glasses, and your guests can serve themselves, leaving you free to tend to your other duties as host.” – Chris Muether, Danno’s American Pub “Make ice cubes that have a small amount of spirits or cordial and juice in them and serve a drink on the rocks that will continue to taste delicious and maybe evolve over the time your guests drink it.” – Jamie Kilgore, Cielo “I have a lot of martini pitchers, so I’ll batch up some Manhattans or martinis in them and have olives and other things around so people can choose their own garnish. I’ll also pre-make drinks that don’t have a lot of modifiers and bottle them and let the guests pour their own drinks.” – Ted Kilgore, Taste

hoW-to ViDeo! BC’s Kitchen’s Justin Cardwell gives a step-by-step demo on dehydrating liqueurs. Scan the tag or watch the video in the Multimedia section of feastSTL.com.

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December 2012

rich with tradition WRItten By Andrew Mark Veety

|

PHOtOgRaPHy By Jonathan Gayman

Peter Rosciglione raises a hand and asks for a moment before making his way around the worn wooden workbench at which four generations of his family have stood, crafting the cookies, pastries and cakes that line the cases at Rosciglione Bakery. Rosciglione returns from a storage area with an oblong object that’s rough, irregular in shape and covered in a matted and gray patina. It looks like a large geode plucked from a geologist’s shelf instead of the back room of a bakery in St. Charles, Mo. Opening its halves, Rosciglione reveals that it is a mold for creating Sicilian sugar sculptures – ornate, hand-painted figurines given as gifts during the holiday and Italian festival seasons. Like the copper kettle that is used daily to cook sugar or the stacks of one-of-a-kind cake pans – seasoned over a hundred years of use – these are the tools of his trade. However, they are also heirlooms, irreplaceable artifacts that tell the story of his family and its connection to the history of St. Louis.

Peter Rosciglione

In some ways, is as much a curator as he is a baker, preserving traditions carried from Palermo, Sicily, across an ocean, through the gates of Ellis Island and to a large storefront on North 7th Street in the city of St. Louis at the turn of the last century. The family-owned markets surrounding the original Rosciglione Bakery constituted the first Italian community in St. Louis. While the area was eventually razed and replaced by the America’s Center Complex and the Edward Jones Dome, its role as the incubator for the Italian culture St. Louis became known for – including many of the foods and flavors – remains an important part of the city’s history.

city of St. Louis

The economic decline of the and slow migration of its citizens to the boundaries of St. Louis County and beyond in the second half of the 20th century led many of these Italian-American businesses to move as well, relocating to the west and south of Downtown, to an area of South St. Louis known as The Hill. After seven decades in the city, Rosciglione Bakery headed north, to Dellwood, in 1969. Then in 1997, the bakery moved again, this time following its customers west to the rapidly growing community of St. Charles.

more than a century,

For a business to survive for to continue to grow after changes of location and stewardship from one family member to another, is a rare thing; however, when it happens, it creates bonds between a business and its customers, who integrate the bakery’s goods into rituals and traditions that are hard to break. A post-meal glass of red wine becomes incomplete without biscotti for dipping, once, twice, before sending the biscuit into a waiting mouth, which nibbles away at the wine-moistened treat until a dry section is reached and the process is repeated. Amaretti, plucked from a grandparent’s omnipresent white box of treats and snuck from a wrinkled hand into the palm of a grandchild when a parent isn’t looking, a secret treat that links one generation to another. Biscuits and cookies. Arguably the simple things in life are readily available from the grocery store, yet they never seem as satisfying as when they come from places like Rosciglione Bakery.

cookies and treats

While Rosciglione lines the cases of his shop with the that he grew up with, he is also keeping alive the food traditions passed down to him, holding close and preserving recipes for treasures like cassata, which Rosciglione Bakery introduced to St. Louis. Cassata, spelled cassatha on the bakery’s menu, is the signature dessert of Rosciglione’s ancestral home in Palermo, the capital of the autonomous region of Sicily. It is an area of the world most often associated with mainland Italy, yet it has been at the crossroads of culture dating back to the Phoenicians, integrating the cuisines and cultures of the Greeks, Romans and Arabs as power and influence transitioned around the Mediterranean Sea and passed through the small island over the span of two millennia.

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make cassata

– like all of our goods – at my father’s side,” says “I was taught to Rosciglione. “For the cassata, it was the same recipe that our family has been making since around 1900, the same cake that we brought to St. Louis. My father never said, ‘Write this down’. I learned from doing.”

synonymous with Palermo,

Although cassata is the cake’s construction and flourishes added to the dish have been adapted over time. Cassata will vary from its home in Sicily to the bakeries in the Little Italy section of New York and Rosciglione’s here in St. Louis. As for his family’s take on the cassata, Rosciglione says: “We see a product like the cassata as part of a tradition – our tradition – and we pride ourselves on never changing it. We have a saying: ‘We are not just a bakery; we are a tradition.’”

basic elements

Even with all the geographic differences and preferences, the remain; a pan with gently sloping sides is lined with alternating layers of cake and ricotta cheese. Once constructed, the cake is chilled before being inverted, released from its pan and adorned with icing and decoration. Variations on the cassata are many, but the most common include adding flavor and moisture to each layer of cake with syrups made from fruit juice or a liqueur infused with citrus, like arancello. The ricotta can be sweetened with the addition of sugar or have its already decadent flavor enriched further with chocolate chips folded into it. For a dramatic presentation, a cassata is often covered with marzipan (a confection derived from sugar and almonds, another signature ingredient of Sicilian sweet making) and topped with candied fruits, which can be added whole, sliced and cut into thin ribbons to form complex designs. Last, the sides of a cassata are often garnished with chopped nuts like pistachios and peanuts as a finishing touch.

dozens of cassata cakes

Rosciglione prepares every week for customers in an array of flavors, colors and sizes, limited only by desire, tradition and means of the customer. However, even the simplest cassata, dressed in a thick layer of icing that cradles the cake like a fine wrapping paper, the kind you open slowly to preserve its beauty, is a triumph of flavors: decadently rich without being overly sweet. Alternating layers provide contrast, light and airy sponge cake offering a break from blissfully heavy swaths of ricotta.

The flavor is reminiscent of cannoli, yet a slice eats like a cheesecake reserved for the most special of occasions, with the understanding that we choose what makes an occasion special.

In the end, it is this that makes cakes like the cassata – not to mention the myriad cookies and treats – from Rosciglione Bakery as much a centerpiece for a birthday party, graduation or wedding as they are for our Sunday dinner tables, just as they have been for more than a hundred years. And thanks to traditions new and old, they will be for many years to come.

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14417 Manchester Rd., Manchester, MO Just west of 141 636-227-5454 toll free: 1-800-962-4244 Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

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sunday

sup SToRy And ReciPeS By Erik Jacobs PhoTogRAPhy By Jennifer Silverberg ReciPeS on P. 80

’Tis the season

when life’s pace gets amped way up, so it’s critical to carve out time amongst the chaos to slip on that wool sweater, keep your feet in well-worn slippers and dedicate the day to cooking a meal that nourishes the soul. This Sunday supper provides the depth of flavor we crave when the cold settles in. The recipes are designed to be prepared over the course of the day, with plenty of time for relaxation, reflection and, of course, some cheese and wine.

The salad is effortless to prepare, with bright flavors and bold, contrasting textures. Popovers – a lost art that needs to be quickly rediscovered – are a simpler (and tastier!) alternative to soufflé. They’re airy, light, eggy and crisp yet tender. Beef short ribs are extraordinarily rich with tenderness only a long braise in big flavors can provide. Red wine lends moisture; garlic and orange provide aromatics; and rosemary and thyme offer an herbal backbone to a dish that has its roots in the Provence region of France. And a scoop of creamy mashed parsnips and potatoes ensures that not a drip of luscious braising liquid gets away. A rustic tart of dried figs, Missouri black walnuts, blue cheese and honey ends the day on a sweet-salty-bitter-buttery note – a cacophony of flavors that focus your senses during the time of year you need it most.

Timeline ○

Sunday morning: if you haven’t yet shopped for ingredients, use the morning to head out and collect what you need. When preparing a relaxing Sunday meal, the cook should always have a good wine (or two!) and some nibbles of cheese to enjoy. you’ll find a world-class selection of both at the The Wine Merchant in clayton, and it does have Sunday hours. cheesemonger Simon Lehrer shares some of his favorites on p. 72.

noon: Start making the tart crust. The longer it rests in the refrigerator before being rolled out, the better. ○ 1pm: Prepare the short ribs and get them in the oven. They are best when cooked long and low, so start them now to ensure they’re ready in the evening. ○ 2pm: Prep all the ingredients for the salad and prepare the potatoes. ○ 3pm: Make the popovers. At the end of the recipe, you’ll find instructions for how to properly reheat them later. ○ 5pm: Assemble the tart but don’t cook it. Refrigerate the uncooked tart until ready to bake. ○ 5:30pm: construct the salads and broil the ribs. Reheat the potatoes. ○ 6pm: The tart goes in the oven and dinner goes on the table. ○ 7pm: dessert is hot and ready to be served. ○

Simon Lehrer’s Sunday Cheese and Wine Pairings On a cold December day, I like the following: Stichelton. A raw cow’s milk version of Stilton that is more complex and nuanced. Made in the U.K. ○ 5-year-old Gouda. Also known as cow candy, this cheese is rich and caramelized, sweet and sharp. Made in Holland. ○ Casa de Mendivil Velho. This cow’s milk cheese from Portugal is rubbed with pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika) and is very sharp with a balancing richness.

Serve these cheeses with good dark chocolate, Missouri walnuts and pecans, or pâté with cornichons.

These cheeses are all robust with layered and lingering flavors, so just a dab will do you. They are meant to be nibbled on throughout the day and paired with wines that complement their complexity. I recommend Meyer Family Cellars 8-Year California Port, a viscous and balanced wine loaded with fruit, or Alvear Pedro Ximénez Solera 1927, a sweet and unctuous sherry with notes of candied nuts and molasses. ○

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601 South Lindbergh Blvd.

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Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

73

Cheddar and Chive Popovers These popovers are the quickest, easiest way to put fresh bread on your table. With a crispy outer shell and an almost custardy hollow center, they provide a wonderful textural contrast to the forktender short ribs. The cheeses and herbs are interchangeable, so let your imagination run wild.

Try Gruyère and tarragon, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil, or dry Jack and sage.

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Lunch Buffet Monday - saturday 11:00aM - 3:30pM aDuLt $7.59 kiDs 7-10 y/0 $4.59 3-6 y/o $2.85 2 & unDer eat free!

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141 Woods Mill Rd.

1282 Old Orchard center Ballwin, MO 63021

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HAZELWOOD (314) 522-8886 8780 Pershall Rd. Off I-270 (Exit 26B) & N. Hanley FAIRVIEW HTS. (618) 394-0833 100 Commerce Ln. Across from Burlington Coat Factory

FENTON ST. PETERS (636) 326-9015 (636) 279-1543 625 Gravois Rd. Across from Fenton Plaza, 293 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. next to Gold’s Gym Take 70 to Mid Rivers Mall Dr.; ST. LOUIS go south 2 blocks.

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December 2012

75

Provençal Braised Beef Short Ribs Beef short ribs are a relatively inexpensive yet decadent treat. In this slow and languid preparation, the rich beefy flavor of the ribs is supported by traditional Southern French ingredients. The orange zest may seem like an unexpected addition, but its flavor truly brings out the best in this dish.

Creamy Buttermilk and Parsnip Mashed Potatoes Let it be known that I am on a crusade to elevate parsnips to mainstream status. This uniquely flavored root vegetable has a sweet herbal taste that blends terrifically with other roots. Here we pair it with potatoes. The buttermilk adds a pleasant tang, and the butter and dairy provide richness and mouth feel. Peel the potatoes if you want it to be extra-creamy, though I prefer the skins on for a more rustic, casual dish.

Frisée with Mandarins, Pistachios and Chèvre Frisée is a hardy lettuce with a slightly bitter taste and crisp texture. Tossing it with citrus wedges, chile-coated pistachios and goat cheese creates a salad with textural contrast and fabulously integrated flavors. This salad uses no dressing, as the components and a drizzle of good-quality olive oil provide enough flavor on their own.

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150 Four Season Center • Chesterfield • 314.878.1474 • 62 Fenton Plaza • Fenton • 636.305.1474 • vivianosmarket.com

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December 2012

77

Rustic Fig Tart with Walnuts, Blue Cheese and Tasmanian Leatherwood Honey Fresh winter fruits are few and far between. Thankfully, dried figs are great any time of year. In this rustic tart, sweet figs and slightly bitter walnuts are married with salty, tangy blue cheese and the amazingly complex Tasmanian Leatherwood honey. Today’s menu is low-key and low-stress. If you work hard to make this tart look perfect, you’ve done it wrong.

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December 2012

79

slow sunday supper recipes

Cheddar and Chive Popovers Serves | 8 |

nicely browned, approximately 4 to 5 minutes

Mash with a food mill, a potato ricer (my favorite)

1 Tbsp

granulated sugar

per side. Transfer the seared ribs to a platter and

or a standard potato masher until smooth. Be

2 Tbsp

turbinado sugar, divided

repeat with the remaining ribs. Pour off all but a

careful not to overmash the vegetables or they

all-purpose flour

thin layer of fat from the pan. Add the remaining

could become “gluey.” Stir in the buttermilk

1½ Tbsp

salt

oil, leeks, carrots, tomato paste and celery to

mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste.

8

eggs

the pan. Season with ½ tsp salt. Scrape up any

Potatoes may be kept warm, covered, in the top

whole milk, tepid

browned bits on the bottom of the pan and sauté

of a double boiler for up to 2 hours. Add milk or

until the aromatics are soft and lightly browned,

half-and-half if needed to thin potatoes to the

6 to 8 minutes. Add the olives, garlic, orange

desired texture. Top with parsley and serve.

4 cups

4 cups 1 bunch 6 oz

chives, chopped aged white Cheddar, finely grated

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and place two 6-cup popover pans on the rack. (If you do not have popover pans, use the largest muffin pan you have.) Sift together flour and salt and set aside. Whisk eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Add milk in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Add in flour mixture 1 cup at a time until incorporated.

Add chives with the last cup of flour.

Remove heated popover pans from the oven.

Spray each cup with nonstick cooking spray and place on a baking sheet. Working quickly but carefully, fill each cup with batter so it is level to the top. Top with cheese. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the pans 180° and continue baking until golden-brown, about 35 minutes longer. Remove pans from oven and invert to release popovers.

Serve immediately.

zest, herbes de Provence and thyme. Cook 1 to 2 minutes. Deglaze the pot with the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced by half.

Transfer the ribs (and any juices that have

case, cool them on a wire rack and reheat in a 450°F oven just before serving.

Serves | 8 | 4 Tbsp

2 3

Frisée with Mandarins, Pistachios and Chèvre Serves | 8 |

1 Tbsp 2 stalks ½ cup 6 cloves

a few times, just until it forms a ball that holds

working with it.

deep. Add any combination of water, wine and

½ tsp

frisée lettuce

powdered sugar

broth so that the liquid reaches the highest layer

1 Tbsp

smoked Spanish paprika

| Preparation – Tart | Place figs and ½ cup

of ribs without covering them. Bring the liquid to

½ cup

salted pistachios

port wine in a medium saucepan. Add just enough

a simmer and then cover the pot and place it in

4

the oven. Braise for 2½ to 3 hours, until ribs are tender. Remove from oven and let them rest in the sauce until ready to serve.

4 oz

the ribs from the sauce and pat them dry. Broil the ribs, turning once or twice, until glazed and to plates, spoon the sauce on top and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and rosemary. * Kalamata or Gaeta olives may be substituted.

good-quality extra-virgin olive oil

water to barely cover and bring to a simmer.

Satsuma mandarins*, peeled and

Remove the pan from the heat and allow the figs

separated into individual sections

to macerate for 20 minutes. Drain figs and pat dry

chèvre, crumbled

with paper towels.

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Just before serving, preheat the broiler. Remove

| Preparation | Chop or tear lettuce into 1-inch pieces and wash thoroughly. Dry thoroughly.

Refrigerate in a clean, rolled-up towel until ready to serve. Slice shallots 1/8-inch thick and place in a small bowl. Immediately pour vinegar over the shallots and mix thoroughly. In a small bowl, bowl, toss pistachios in 1 tsp of olive oil. Add spice

Creamy Buttermilk and Parsnip Mashed Potatoes

1 tsp 6 sprigs 2 cups

3 lbs

oil and top with spiced pistachios. Sprinkle with

Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn

salt and pepper before serving.

potatoes

half-and-half

1 cup 1 Tbsp

buttermilk finely chopped parsley

tomato paste

full-bodied dry red wine, such as Côtes du Rhône

| Preparation | Fill a large saucepan halfway with cold water and add 2 tsp salt. Cut potatoes and parsnips into 2-inch chunks and immediately

* If you can’t locate Satsuma mandarins, any kind of clementine can be substituted.

Rustic Fig Tart with Walnuts, Blue Cheese and Tasmanian Leatherwood Honey Serves | 8 | Pastry

high heat and then reduce heat to medium-low

1¼ cups

and simmer until the potatoes and parsnips are

4 tsp

fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. (A vigorous boil

½ tsp 1 stick

low-sodium beef broth

tends to break up the potatoes, so make sure

¼ cup

fresh parsley, chopped fine

they simmer.) Place butter and half-and-half in

rosemary, finely chopped

a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook until the butter is melted and the mixture is hot.

| Preparation | Position a rack in the center of

Remove from heat and cool mixture to room

the oven and heat to 350°F. In an 8-quart Dutch

temperature, about 5 minutes. Add buttermilk.

oven, heat 2 Tbsp oil over medium heat. Season

figs begin to caramelize. Add remaining port wine. Cook, stirring frequently, for an additional 4 to 5 minutes. The fig filling is ready when it has thickened but not dried out. Let cool.

Roll the dough between two sheets of waxed paper into a 12- to 13-inch round. (It’s fine if the edges are slightly ragged and misshapen, but form as even a circle as possible.) Place the dough round on a piece of parchment paper or a Silpat and transfer to a cookie sheet or rimmed sheet pan.

Sprinkle the surface of the dough with 1 Tbsp turbinado sugar. Add walnuts to the fig mixture and spread in the center of the rolled dough, leaving a 2½- to 3-inch rim at the edge of the dough.

overlapping border around the tart. You can use a flexible palette knife or small offset metal spatula to lift the dough up slightly and partially over the mound of figs. Make a few pleats in the

all-purpose flour

sugar on top of the folded-over dough. Bake for

turbinado sugar

45 minutes or until the pastry is set and golden-

salt

brown. Cool on the baking pan on a wire rack

cold butter, chopped into 16

before serving.

equal pieces 3 Tbsp

cold water

| To Serve | Slice the tart into 8 wedges and plate individually. Sprinkle each wedge with ½ oz

tart

8 oz

dried figs, chopped into ½-inch pieces

½ cup + 2 Tbsp

port wine

will fit without crowding in the pan and sear until

them to the hot pan. Stir to dry them out a bit.

2 Tbsp

butter

December 2012

granulated sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until

will be exposed. Sprinkle remaining turbinado

Drain the potatoes and parsnips well and return

feastSTL.com

over medium-high heat and stir in the figs and

border as necessary. The center portion of figs

the ribs with salt and pepper. Add as many ribs as

80

Preheat oven to 375°F. Melt butter in a pan

Fold the edges of the dough to create an

add to the water. Bring the water to a boil over

4 cups 2 sprigs

and add a few shallots, a few mandarin wedges

black pepper

½ cup

fresh thyme

On 8 chilled salad plates, place a handful of frisée and ½ oz of crumbled chèvre. Drizzle with olive

1-inch chunks

dried herbes de Provence

mixture to pistachios and toss to coat. Set aside.

salt and freshly ground

unsalted butter

zest of 1 orange

together. Flatten slightly into a thick disc, wrap

balsamic vinegar

1 stick

garlic, crushed

the cold water onto the mixture and toss gently

2 Tbsp

leeks, cleaned and cut into

pitted niçoise olives*

pea-sized pieces of butter still visible. Sprinkle

evenly as possible and no more than 2 layers

parsnips, peeled

celery, cut into 2-inch lengths

flour until it resembles coarse sand with a few

in plastic wrap and chill for several hours before

2 lbs

2-inch lengths

cutter, a large-tined fork or a food processor

shallots, thinly sliced

beef short ribs, preferably

carrots, peeled and cut into

| Preparation – Pastry | In a small bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Using a pastry

¼ cup

extra-virgin olive oil, divided

bone-in

Tasmanian Leatherwood honey*

beef broth over the ribs and arrange the ribs as

salt and freshly ground 5 lbs

blue cheese

4 oz

1 lb

Serves | 8 |

black pepper

black walnuts 4 oz

on the pulse setting, cut the cold butter into the

combine sugar and smoked paprika. In a separate

Provençal Braised Beef Short Ribs

walnuts, preferably Missouri

accumulated on the platter) to the pot. Pour the

sizzling, about 10 minutes. Transfer the meat

Popovers can be made 2 hours in advance. In this

1 cup

blue cheese and drizzle with ½ oz honey. * Tasmanian Leatherwood honey has a distinct flavor and is available at The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com. Good-quality clover honey can be substituted.

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December 2012

81

Flourless ChoColate torta

PhOTOgrAPhy by

Jonathan Gayman

COnTrIbuTOr: Matt Sorrell, writer While I like chocolate well enough, I definitely don’t fall into the realm of a chocoholic. This past summer, however, I had a bit of a dessert revelation. I was having dinner at Eleven Eleven Mississippi with a friend – a definite “chocophile” – who suggested splitting the Flourless Chocolate Torta. I agreed, thinking I’d have maybe a bite or two.

The dark wedge of bittersweet-chocolate cake arrived on a plate drizzled with raspberry syrup and sauce anglaise, dusted with a bit of powdered sugar, and topped with fluffy whipped cream and a shard of walnut brittle. A beautiful presentation that merely hinted at the delight to come.

Though small, the torta was dense and had an incredible depth of flavor that I hadn’t experienced with lighter chocolate desserts.

With each bite (yes, I had many) I was hit with another burst of pure chocolate goodness. The menu suggested pairing the torta with a glass of Terra d’ Oro Zinfandel Port, which we did, and the wine perfectly complemented and augmented the intensity of the dessert with its notes of juicy fruit and cocoa.

Though I’m still not a chocoholic, this is the dessert I crave when I get hit with the need for a chocolate fix.

Eleven Eleven Mississippi, 1111 Mississippi Ave., Lafayette Square 314.241.9999, 1111-m.com Learn about Matt’s main obsession – cocktails – in his guide to home bartending, Building A Better Bar, on p. 44.

Inspired Food Culture

December 2012

83