January 2023 Feast Magazine

PHOTO BY BEN NICKELSON

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

1/29

St. Louis Best Bridal Expo

Sunday, Jan. 29, 1 to 4 p.m.; $10; The Reverie at The District, 10789 N. Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield, Missouri

Attendees can meet local wedding vendors and shop bridal looks and trends at this upscale showcase of all things St. Louis weddings. Visit STLtoday.com/ourevents to purchase tickets.

2/17

St. Louis Post-Dispatch Trivia Night

Friday, Feb. 17, begins at 7 p.m.; $280 for a table of 8; Moolah Shrine Center, 12545 Fee Fee Road, St. Louis, Missouri

Join the St. Louis Post-Dispatch to show off your knowledge of St. Louis. Trivia will be led by St. Louis Post-Dispatch columnist Joe Holleman, and a portion of the event proceeds will benefit the annual 100 Neediest Cases charitable campagin. Visit STLtoday.com/ourevents to purchase tickets.

PUBLISHER Ian Caso

EDITORIAL

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Emily Adams, emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

MANAGING EDITOR Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com

DIGITAL EDITOR Shannon Weber, sweber@feastmagazine.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlo e Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR Emily Standlee, estandlee@feastmagazine.com

PROOFREADER Alecia Humphreys

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Aurora Blanchard, Alecia Humphreys, Mabel Suen, Gaby Weir Vera, Jiana West

SALES

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com

MEDIA STRATEGIST

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

ART

ART DIRECTOR

Dawn Deane, dawn.deane@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Laura DeVlieger, lauradevlieger@laduenews.com

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Christina Kling-Garre , Ben Nickelson, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Jillian Kaye DISTRIBUTION

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson at rhudson@post-dispatch.com.

editor’s letter

One of St. Louis’ greatest strengths is its innate ability to foster new talent. In a city brimming with creativity, culture and community support, rising stars are born here every day.

This issue is dedicated to the ones to watch in 2023 – the risk-takers, the problem-solvers, the innovators, the progress-makers. Join us in celebrating the future of food and drink in the metro area by reading our annual special section starting on p. 25.

Take, for example, Dave Blum and Autumn Sij – the co-owners of Such and Such Farm – who are curating culinary experiences for their guests that showcase the artistry of farm-to-table food.

Next, check out how a few of this year’s honorees are taking their own efforts out of the garden and into their communities: Seth Hamilton of nonprofit Go! International is teaching students in East St. Louis how to grow fresh produce for local food deserts and turn it into entrepreneurial success, and Nick Speed’s nonprofit Ujima is an organization in North St. Louis that supports food justice, environmental stewardship and youth empowerment.

This year’s class of honorees proves one thing: From an allergy-friendly and

cruelty-free microcreamery to warm cookie vending machines to swoonworthy Korean desserts and more, sweets are certainly stepping it up in 2023.

And as anyone who has worked in a restaurant will tell you – it takes an entire team from open to close: Kyle Langhurst of Vicia shares what it takes to manage the front-of-house dance with grace, and the story of Hailey Boyd of Salve Osteria is the definition of blooming – or baking –where you’re planted.

In this issue, you’ll also meet the co-founders of Dinner at the Loft, St. Louis’ hippest private supper club; the co-owners of ’ssippi, the natural wine bar everyone is raving about; and so much more. And on p. 10, read our interview with the woman and teacher behind some of St. Louis’ top culinary stars.

Editing this issue made me even more hopeful for the bright future ahead, and I hope reading it makes you feel the same.

Cheers! Emily Adams emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

DOLDRUMS KICK THE

WRITTEN BY JIANA WEST | PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

January can be a rough time of the year, with its early sunsets, biting cold and dreary, gray skies. It's easy to forget that some exciting fruits are at their best and brightest this time of year, including the tropical staple kiwi. This drink is a reminder of the more pleasant weather to come and is a perfect offering for those taking a post-holiday break from alcohol. For those not participating in Dry January, an aged rum would transform this recipe into a cocktail effortlessly.

YIELDS | 1 DRINK |

SYRUP

THE DOLDRUMS

/

water and sugar until sugar dissolves. Add ginger and kiwi. Bring to boil, and then lower heat to simmer, stirring mixture occasionally, 10 minutes. Set aside to cool and infuse. Strain solids, and pour syrup into Mason jar or other airtight container. Keeps for about one week.

preparation / Add ingredients to shaker tin, and shake hard with ice. Strain into cocktail glass filled with pebble ice. Add a dehydrated kiwi slice to garnish.

Ellen Piazza / Culinary Program Coordinator, STLCC

ONE on Books Piazza Recommends to Aspiring Chefs

“LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE”

BY PROSPER MONTAGNÉ

“‘LaRousse’ is a really in-depth look at recipes, techniques and ingredients. It is a great segue book from foodie to professional.”

BY THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

STORY AND PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

St. Louis Community College’s culinary arts program ranked No. 9 in a list of the country’s top 50 culinary schools, according to Best Choice Schools. The program has churned out several St. Louis stars, from iNDO’s Nick Bognar to The Four Seasons’ Peter Slay. Chef Ellen Piazza has taught many of these budding chefs herself; she started working at STLCC in 2002 as an adjunct professor and is now the program coordinator and department chair. “We get such a diverse group of students,” Piazza says. “I really appreciate the fact that we see so many different types of ideas and thoughts coming into the industry. It’s just really neat to see the passion that everybody brings and that food elicits out of people.”

What’s the most important thing students learn in STLCC’s culinary arts program?

I really think that it’s exposure to a variety of different chefs in the industry. One of our greatest strengths really are our adjunct professors. Because we’ve been here so long, we have the opportunity to pull from that pool of former students that have continued to be the ones to watch.

How can you tell if a student might become a rising star? I think there’s more than one area. The first day [one student] stepped into that kitchen, we started working on knife skills. You could tell immediately this was a young man with a skill set who had already applied himself and

clearly had a desire. Sometimes, we don’t have to do anything if they have this aura about them. They radiate and show you right away they’ve got it. Then, you have those that you can see their eyes light up as they get into it. They’re not afraid to make a mistake because they know they’re in that learning process. They are humble, and they are willing to get in and learn and take direction … So we see different ways that people express that kind of passion for it.

What is the teaching process like for the culinary program? We try to teach them to think about what it is they’re doing: Plan your work and work your plan. It’s not willy-nilly. We also try to teach them the overall business skills:

here’s a profit and loss statement, here’s how you schedule people, here’s how you work cleanly and safely. And then we try to introduce them to as many products – different ingredients, different techniques – as we possibly can and include different scenarios. We’re a small enough program that I know everyone in my culinary program. We personally advise all of our students. If a student really wants to pursue something, we can assist them with saying, ‘Here is your next step. Here are three or four people or places for you to start researching,’ and assist them with doing that.

Visit stlcc.edu to learn more.

“A solid textbook-style cookbook that includes all functional areas of the kitchen, recipes, tools, ingredients and techniques. It also provides insight into menu development, recipe costing and plate presentation.”

BY SAMIN NOSRAT

“Samin Nosrat’s book is a very approachable look at the science of what makes good food. There are other ‘tome-like’ food science books, but this is the most user-friendly, with great recipes for both home and professional cooks. There is also a video series that accompanies this book, so it offers a great visual learning component as well.”

“THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF”

“SALT FAT ACID HEAT”

The Sandwich Sandwich

LIVING ROOM

AT

COFFEE & KITCHEN IN MAPLEWOOD, guest experience is the guiding force.

This emphasis on customer satisfaction was the source of the café’s most popular menu item: the Workday Sandwich. Hannah Larson –who co-owns the spot with Nate Larson – explains that initially, Living Room was primarily a coffeehouse. “We opened, and people immediately started saying, ‘Hey, you’ve got eggs back there, you’ve got cheese, you’ve got bacon – how about you put all that on a breakfast sandwich for me?’” Hannah Larson says. Soon after, the culinary team came up with the Workday:

peppered bacon or veggie sausage, soft-boiled eggs, cheddar and dressed greens on a freshly made roll.

This elevated breakfast sandwich might seem simple on the outside, but each individual component is carefully crafted. The bacon gets extra crunchy through a special cooking technique. “We bake it low and slow, so it gets nice and crispy,” Hannah Larson says. “Then, [we add] fresh ground black pepper that we put on top to really finish it all off.” The dressed greens might seem like a superfluous addition, but they are key to keeping the sandwich balanced. The bitterness of the greens, combined with the acidic dressing made with lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, mustard and brown sugar, cuts through the richness of the eggs, cheese and meat.

Living Room offers guests the option of soft- or medium-boiled eggs

or baked eggs. Hannah Larson's favorite are the soft-boiled eggs. “That yolk stays runny, and when you bite into it, it sort of makes its own sauce and really brings the sandwich together,” she says.

For years, the café made its own bread, but the team recently switched to local bakery Breadsmith. Larson describes the bread as a cross between a Cuban roll and ciabatta; the outside gets crispy, but the inside stays moist and chewy.

The Workday Sandwich is a can’t-miss menu item, and luckily, it’s not going anywhere. “It’s stayed our top seller every single month of every single year,” she says. Hannah Larson confirms the mainstay will continue to anchor Living Room’s menu for years to come.

Living Room Coffee & Kitchen, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314-899-0173, livingroomstl.com

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

PRESENTED BY

COOKINGWITH SEAWEED BRINGS A HINTOF THEOCEAN,MOUNTAINSOFMINERALS

CreamyLinguine withSpicy SeaweedCrunch

PASTA

DULSE NORI

Whenit’s fresh,dulse looks much likeredleaflettuce,butitusually comesinflakesorpowderandis used to impartthebrineofthe sea in everythingfromeggsto soupsto smoothies But panfryingdulse turnsits flavorinto somethingelse entirely: bacon. (There are loadsof recipesonline forDLTsandwiches.)Nutritionwise,dulse islikekaleturned up to 11 iodine,fiber, ironand antioxidants are all foundin abundance.

KOMBU

Humble, earthy, green-brown kombu —a kindof kelp might notlookimpressive.Butit’s one ofjust two ingredients thatmake updashi, Japanesesoupstock, whichisthebuildingblock ofinnumerableAsiandishes. (Bonito flakesare theother one.) Kombuinfusesdashiwith umamiandis a super source of calcium,iodineandiron.Eating kombumay also help reduce hypertensionandcholesterol.

Eventhough wakameusually takeson a supporting roleas agarnishor salad,its vibrant, almostglowing-greenribbons are impossible to ignore. Wakameusuallycomesindried strips,so ithas to be rehydrated andthenthoroughly drained before using so itdoesn’t becomemushy. Butafterthat, it’seasytowork with. Add some ginger,sesame seedsand soy saucefor a simple, salty, slightly sweet saladthat’s loadedwith calcium,magnesiumandvitamin K,all for veryfewcalories.

YOURHEALTHTIPS

Scoopingproductsderivedfromkelpand algae,suchasspirulinaanddulse,into smoothiesforaninfusionofproteinand energyisarelativelyrecentphenomenonin theWest.ButEastAsiancultureshaveknown aboutthebenefitsofseaweedforthousands ofyears.AndJapanishometosomeofthe longest-livedpeopleonEarth—mightseaweed playaroleintheirlongevity?

“Thehealthbenefitsassociatedwithseaweed productsarestillunderstudy.Lowincalories andrichinbioactivecomponents,thevarious speciesofseaweedcanbeahealthyand environmentallysustainableadditionto yoursnacksandmeals.Dependingonthe type,seaweedscontainiodine,vitamin B12, antioxidants,carotenoidsandflavonoids. Carotenoidsandflavonoidsmayhelpprotect againstcertaincancertypesandflavonoids

mayalsohelpreducetheriskofcardiovascular disease.Iodinecanhelpwiththyroidfunction, butthehighlevelsofiodineinseaweed indicatesthatforoptimumhealthbenefits,it isbettertoenjoythisgreen,leafyvegetable inregularbutsmallamounts.Tryeating seaweedwithothervegetableslikebroccoli, cabbageandbokchoy,”saysAdetunjiToriola, MD,PhD,professorofsurgeryatWashington University SchoolofMedicine.

Ifthethoughtofeatingseaweedis intimidating,thinkofit like anygreenlandbasedplant.Manyseaweedsevenlooklike lettuce,butthey’refarmorenutritionally dense.Alittleseaweedgoesalongway. It’s versatileandcanbefoundfresh,driedorin powderedform. It bringsincredibleumami flavorandawhisperoftheoceantoabroad rangeofdishes.

This versatile seaweedisbest knownasthewrapper forsushi rolls. Rice, vegetables,seafood and saucesarecarefully placed on a sheetofnoribefore it’s tightlyrolledandcutinto pieces. Nori canalso beadded tosoup, usedas agarnishor even eatenas a snack.It’sredolentofthe sea withoutbeing overpoweringand is aterrific source ofvitamins A andC,ironandpotassium. Be sureto store norisheets in acool,dry place— they’re paperthin,andmoisture will disintegrate them.

8oz linguine

12 ozcan evaporatedmilk

1tsp garlicpowder

1 Tbsp driedonion

1tsp redpepperflakes

4tsp doenjang

1 Tbsp sesameoil

Flaky seasalt

Freshground blackpepper

TOPPING

175oz spicyseaweedsnacks

1tsp black sesame seeds

1tsp whitesesame seeds

1 Tbsp friedshallot

PREPARATION

“If youaretiredofthesamerecipes,tryusing seaweedin yournextsoup,salad,smoothieor homemadesushiroll,”Toriolasays.“Thesalty yetsavoryflavormakesseaweedtheperfect ingredienttocreatenewtastesandtextures whilealsoboosting yourintakeofvitamins, mineralsandother nutrients.”

Bring a large potof water to boil,addlinguineand cook about 4to5 minutes.Reserve halfcupof pastawater. Drain linguine. Add evaporated milk topasta potwith garlic powder, driedonion, red pepperflakesanddoenjang. Overmediumheat,stiruntil doenjangismixedandlumps are minimal. Add pastaback to potandpourin reserved pasta water Bring to simmerand stir constantly untilit reduces by halfandthickens, about 5to7minutes Stirin sesame oil,then seasonwith saltand pepper totaste.Insmallbowl, crumble seaweedsnacks into smallpieces.Addinblack and whitesesame seedsand friedshallots. Stir tocombine. Plate noodlesandsprinkle generously with seaweed topping.

4servings: 331 calories,13g fat,42g carbs,13gprotein

ADETUNJI TORIOLA,MD,PhD

ProfessorofSurgery

WashingtonUniversity SchoolofMedicine

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

SPONSORED C ONTENT BYKATHERINELEWIS

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

WAKAME

YK ATHERINELEWIS

ONE ON ONE

Sam Linehan / Lead Bartender, Yellowbelly

ONE on Must-Try Drinks at

Yellowbelly

Clairin last Word

Classic and herbaceous, a Clairin Last Word is typically made with gin. Instead, Linehan uses lime, Green Chartreuse, Luxardo and Clairin – a traditional Haitian rum made with wild sugar cane.

Once a competitive figure skater, Sam Linehan now balances horticulture classes and lead bartending at Yellowbelly in the Central West End. There, co-owners Tim Wiggins and Travis Howard and general manager Seth Wahlman foster a collaborative, educational atmosphere. “When you reach a certain level, there are two directions you can go in,” Linehan says. “You can say, ‘I worked [too] hard to give this information away to you for free.’ Or you can ask, ‘How can I get you to where I’m at now so that the cycle keeps going?’” The paradisethemed restaurant and bar was already a local favorite – for Linehan, it’s a space where they feel comfortable expressing their own ideas.

How did you get into bartending and the restaurant world? When I was 15, I got my work permit. I worked in the kitchen of an Applebee’s and at mom-and-pop restaurants. In 2017, I was hired at Taste – rest in peace – where I learned a lot. I thought, ‘This certainly isn’t an Applebee’s.’ A friend told me that the owners of Retreat [Gastropub] were looking to staff [Yellowbelly], where I started serving. Tim asked me if I had interest in bartending, then at the beginning of 2022, I was offered the role of lead bartender. My experience in this world is funny because I’m 25 – regulars ask me where else I’ve bartended. I’m like, ‘Well, we’ve been open for four years, and I’ve been here the whole time.’ Up until a month ago, there were four of us still here from the opening team, which speaks volumes to how good the community working at Yellowbelly is.

What do you prioritize when crafting Yellowbelly’s drink menu? Taste and appearance are up there, but I like to prioritize what guests are looking for.

If a lot of people come in looking for tequila cocktails, and we only have mezcal on the menu at the moment, I put that in the back of my head. I want to strive to be innovative while also making approachable drinks. Thankfully, Tim and Seth are cocktail encyclopedias who help bring my ideas to life in ways that I couldn’t do alone.

What makes a good cocktail? For me, balance is the most important part. Most people would agree that when you look at a cocktail menu and order a drink that has seven ingredients, but you only taste one, it’s a letdown. With Fernet or Campari, or any of those bitter liquors – yeah, they’re bittersweet, but unless you have your palate trained to handle the bitterness, you don’t get the sweetness.

How do the food menu and drink menu complement each other? We try to be as sustainable as we possibly can. We cold-press fresh pineapples, so the kitchen will take the skins from that for their Tepache. We’ve had cocktails

in the past that have the same ingredients as our green curry, for example, so obviously those two complement each other well. Over the summer, our kitchen was running a watermelon salad, and we used the scraps to make syrup. We share ingredients, so we can cut down on purveyors having to deliver stuff out to us.

How do you think Yellowbelly stands out? We do a good job at creating a choose-your-ownadventure type of environment for guests. You can come in and get a Cold Snack [beer] and a burger and call it a night. Or you can get a four-course dinner with a cocktail to match all of it. Also, making sure that guests feel like it’s OK to ask questions, and they won’t be met with pretension; that’s important to me because I wasn’t born knowing all those ingredients. I was just a kid who got a job and learned as I went along.

Yellowbelly, 4659 Lindell Blvd., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, yellowbellystl.com

dreamCast

A drink Linehan calls “the offspring of a Cobra’s Fang and a Saturn,” two of Yellowbelly’s classic cocktails, the Dreamcast combines gin, Green Chartreuse and ginger fassionola. Think of it as a refreshing, boozy fruit punch.

the Cold shoulder

This riff on a stirred martini owes some of its flavor to MSG, a naturally occurring ingredient used in cooking to add a savory, umami note. Other ingredients include Green Chartreuse, mezcal and lime.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY EMILY STANDLEE

THE MIX / THE DISH / HEALTHY APPETITE / ON TREND / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HOMETOWN HITS / HOT BLOCKS

Risotto

MUSHROOMS, BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CHILE OIL

SERVES|6|

RISOTTO

7 cupsvegetablestock ¼ cupoliveoil 2 smallshallots,minced 4 garliccloves,minced 2 cupsArboriorice 1 cupdrywhitewine 2 tspkoshersalt,plusmoretotaste 2 cupsmushroommix, slicedorroughlychopped 1 smallbu ernutsquash,peeled andseeded,cutin½-inchcubes 2 Tbspoliveoil 1 tspkoshersalt 1 tspwhitepepper,freshlyground

CHILE OIL

4 driedguajillochiles, stemsremoved,choppedsmall 4 garliccloves 2 greenonions,thinlysliced 2 TbspItalianparsley,minced ½ tspsaltflakes ¼ tspMSG(optional) 1 cupneutraloil,suchascanola

trymushroomForthemix, creminiusingshiitake, mushrooms.andoyster

/ risotto preparation / Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Spread the squash on a baking sheet in an even layer. Drizzle with olive oil; season with salt and ground white pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes or until tender. Remove from the heat, and set aside. Heat the vegetable stock in a small saucepan. In a heavy, medium-sized pot, add the oil and the shallots, and turn the heat to medium to cook the shallots gently, until so , without browning. Once the shallots are translucent, add the garlic, and cook for about 1 minute, and then add the rice. Toast the rice gently for another minute. Add the wine, stir all ingredients well, and cook, stirring o en, until the wine has evaporated almost entirely but not completely. Add enough of the warm stock to cover the rice, and repeat the same stock-stir-evaporate step. When the stock has mostly evaporated, add the mushrooms and more warm stock to cover the mixture; repeat the stock-stir-evaporate process as o en as needed, tasting as you go and adjusting the seasoning until the rice is cooked. Add the roasted squash, scraping any remaining oil and caramelized bits from the pan, into the rice. Stir gently to combine without mashing the squash.

/ chile oil preparation / Using a food processor or mortar and pestle, gently chop the chiles into coarse flakes. Transfer the chile flakes to a glass or heat-proof small mixing bowl, and add the garlic, green onions, parsley, salt and MSG (if using), and combine. Over low heat, gently warm the oil for about 10 minutes or until bubbly. Pour the hot oil over the chile mixture. Allow it to rest at room temperature before using. You can store chile oil in a cool, dark pantry for a few weeks or indefinitely in the refrigerator.

/ assembly / Spoon a portion of the riso o into a bowl. Gently drizzle a generous amount of the fresh chile oil in a circular motion. Serve immediately.

Classic riso o is heightened with a Sichuan technique and Mexican guajillo chiles to create a world of flavor without compromising the soul of the dish. Sweet bu ernut squash, combined with the umami of earthy mushrooms, and a fragrant and mild guajillo chile oil turn an already elegant riso o into a one-of-a-kind interaction of flavors and textures.

WITH

STORY AND RECIPE BY GABY WEIR VERA | PHOTOS BY BEN NICKELSON

FEVER CHILLS – Lazy Tiger

Fever Chills (Russell’s Reserve rye, Fernet Pianta, charred poblano, bird’s eye chile and MSG) is one of the few drinks that has been a constant on Lazy Tiger's menu since the cocktail bar’s genesis. “We make really intense tinctures, or li le single-item infusions, of the peppers, and then blend them with different bi ers and find where the spice hits on your palate, which I think is key,” co-owner Tim Wiggins says. Wiggins recommends ordering Lazy Tiger’s cheeseburger or pork belly dish to complement Fever Chills.

“Things that have a li le more fat content to balance the spice is where we've seen the most success.” Lazy Tiger, 210 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-925-8888, lazytigerstl.com

EN FUEGO – The Golden Hoosier

The Golden Hoosier’s En Fuego starts out looking like a classic Margarita build: Gran Centenario blanco tequila, fresh lemon and lime juice. But Ancho Reyes chile liqueur and jalapeño agave give it the kick that puts it on the spicy drink roster. “Every drink is delicious and invigorating – a combo of smooth citrus sweet and tingling spice,” bar manager Joshua Oldham says. “You'll keep pulling the glass back to your lips for another sip.” During that sip, you’ll pick up on a myriad of flavor notes: the tequila's citrus, pepper and oak; the lime juice’s sour citrus body; the jalapeñoinfused agave’s sweet heat; and Ancho Reyes’ smoke, cacao and pepper.

The Golden Hoosier, 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd., Northampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-354-8044, thegoldenhoosier.com

RESTAURANTS REVIEWED

Cellar House

In 2020, Patrick Ahearn relocated Cellar House to a new home on Telegraph Road. He needed a chef, and luckily he found Chloe Yates of Red Dirt Revival food truck fame. Her style perfectly fits the restaurant’s vibe: a casual, friendly neighborhood spot with a higher-end gloss. Yates’ cooking is seasonal, sophisticated and abundant in both flavor and plating.

Where Cellar House, 5634 Telegraph Road, St. Louis, Missouri

More info 314-846-5100; cellarhousestl.com

Menu Contemporary seasonal fare

Hours Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)

RESTAURANTS REVIEWED

Simply Delicious

Brandi Artis, who opened 4 Hens Creole Kitchen this year at City Foundry STL, showcases her culinary range in this new downtown restaurant. For instance, her Bad and Boujee Burger adds buttery shrimp to her cheeseburger, and she adds 4 Hens Voodoo Queen sauce and honey to her chicken sandwich.

Where Simply Delicious, 1115 Pine St., St. Louis, Missouri

More info 314-802-7287; simplydeliciousstl.com Menu Breakfast and lunch fare

Hours 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Press

Chef Logan Ely has based his new Fox Park restaurant Press around a dish he calls smash pizza. The process begins with the dough, which is fermented for two days. A thin sheet of this dough is stretched across the bottom half of a press, covered with the dish’s fillings and topped with another sheet of dough. This arrangement is pressed together into a single, char-speckled shell: a smash pizza.

Where Press, 2509 South Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, Missouri

More info 314-328-1094; press-stl.com • Menu Smash pizza

Hours Dinner Thursday-Monday, lunch Saturday-Monday

READ MORE

From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb

READ MORE READ MORE

Photo by Jordan Opp, Post-Dispatch

Photo by Jordan Opp, Post-Dispatch

Photo by Christian Gooden, Post-Dispatch

Twaróg Twaróg

WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

WHAT IS IT?

Twaróg is a fresh Polish-style farmer’s cheese made from cow’s milk. It’ll remind you of rico a, but looser; like quark, but drier; similar to co age cheese, but without the defined curds. The flavor is mild and milky, with a background salinity and a bit of tartness, which makes it perfect for both savory and sweet applications. It’s traditionally used in pierogi, cheesecakes and gzik, a potato dish.

WHAT DO I DO WITH IT?

Because it so closely resembles fresh rico a and quark in flavor and texture, it’s easy to imagine what twaróg can do in recipes. Cheesecake and lasagna are obvious; use it to fill fruit and cheese blintzes, or as a foundation for gnocchi or the dumplings in everyone’s favorite cold-weather meal: chicken and dumplings. Twaróg works like cream cheese in things like tart dough or tender cookies like rugelach, kolacky, kiffle or “geese feet” – a traditional Russian folded cookie made with farmer’s cheese. It makes a fantastic dip or spread; add finely chopped vegetables, herbs and a li le bu ermilk to the mix and serve it up with crackers and crudité.

Make these Russian-style herbed pancakes for your next brunch small bite: The twaróg base keeps the pancake tender and gives it the structure to stand up to the scrambled eggs and smoked salmon topper.

GEESE FEET FARMER’S CHEESE COOKIES

Twaróg

TWARÓG HERBED PANCAKE BITES WITH EGGS AND SMOKED SALMON

Herbed

/ preparation / Whisk ¾ cup flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and pepper together in a medium bowl. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together egg yolks and twaróg until combined. Fold in dill and chives until evenly distributed; then fold flour mixture in, being careful not to overwork. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of bu ermilk; ba er should be very thick.

Dust workspace with some of the remaining ¼ cup flour, reserving the rest to replenish as needed. Divide mixture into 24 balls of 2 tablespoons ba er each. Lay each on floured surface, fla ening into a ¼-inch pancake with floured fingers to avoid sticking. Repeat with remaining balls.

Heat an oven to lowest se ing; set a baking dish inside. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and lightly grease with bu er; reserve the rest to grease between batches. Working in batches, cook pancakes over medium heat until deep golden, 3 to 4 minutes, then flip with spatula and cook until golden and cooked through, 2 to 3 more minutes. Transfer pancakes to oven, cover loosely with foil and repeat with remaining pancakes.

/ to serve/ Remove pancakes from oven; top each with a heaping spoonful of scrambled egg and a small slice of smoked salmon. Garnish with dill and chives; season with pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

ALEX MCDONNELL | PRIORITIZED PASTRIES

Alex McDonnell’s secret to her baked goods? Not overcomplicating things. Many of her recipes’ origins live in her grandmother’s Depression-era cookbooks, when things like milk, bu er and eggs were scarce. She builds each recipe out from there. “It’s just understanding what a recipe needs – and doesn’t need – and swapping out ingredients for something that will mimic the flavor and texture of more traditional and glutinous ingredients,” she says. McDonnell also credits her years as a traditional baker and pastry chef for teaching her the skills she needed to perfect her allergy-friendly treats. Her favorite bake is the salted chocolate chip cookie, which she recommends to first-timers and skeptics. McDonnell o en hands them out without a word to show customers how good gluten-free and vegan bakes can be. Can they tell a difference? “They almost never do! I think it rivals, and even beats, almost every other chocolate chip cookie I’ve had,” she says.

Prioritized Pastries, 4904 Devonshire Ave., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-858-0333, prioritizedpastries.com

MARY MICHALS GLUTEN FREE AT LAST!

Mary Michals’ bakery – Gluten Free At Last! – in Collinsville, Illinois, is a haven with some of the best gluten-free goodies around. “My baked goods get rave reviews – especially my cakes – and I believe it's because I make my own glutenfree flour blend that has the look and texture of gluten flour for a perfect product every time,” she says. She also credits the love she puts into each of her products; she aims to provide her customers with exactly what they’re craving. If you’re gluten-free curious but don’t know what to order, check out the bakery’s oatmeal crème pies, cinnamon rolls or lemon-blueberry scones. For a more savory treat, try the Italian herb bread.

Gluten Free at Last!, Collinsville, Illinois, 217-691-2073, glutenfreeatlast.com

LINDSAY SHOEMAKER THE CONSCIOUS KITCHEN STL

Lindsay Shoemaker didn’t plan to be a gluten-free baker, but when her husband was diagnosed with severe food allergies, she set out to learn everything she needed to know to make his favorite cakes and cookies safe for him to enjoy. Thus, Kirkwoodbased The Conscious Kitchen was born; Shoemaker now creates cakes and cookies for weddings, birthdays and everyday celebrations. Highquality allergy-friendly ingredients ensure the end result will always be brimming with flavor. Her runaway hit at The Conscious Kitchen has been the chocolate chip cookie cake, which she honed over time while learning the ropes of allergy-free baking. For home chefs just dipping their toes into gluten-free baking, Shoemaker says to keep in mind that the process is trial and error. “Zoom in on one or two particular treats and recipes, and refine those. In that refining process, you’ll find how to alter the taste and texture in a way that will inform your future baking.”

The Conscious Kitchen STL, Kirkwood, Missouri, theconsciouskitchenstl.com

WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER

PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

PHOTO BY MARY MICHALS

PHOTO BY LINDSAY SHOEMAKER

Mike Risk has been the executive chef and master of pasta and microgreens at O+O Pizza since it opened in 2020. With 30 years of professional kitchen experience, he now teaches his cooks at O+O how to craft homemade pasta of their own. “It’s patience, and then it’s also relaxation,” Risk says. “Your dough needs to be perfect with its texture, pull and feel. Working on stuffed pasta, it’s about precision on the folds so they don’t look sloppy. Sometimes, there’s going to be mistakes, and that’s part of the learning process, but once you’ve got it, it’s very zen –you’re just cranking out trays of pasta, whether that’s agnolotti, scarpinocc or gnocchi.” Risk recommends three cookbooks from his bookshelf perfect for pasta-making novices, as well as those looking to fine-tune their craft.

CULINARY LIBRARY

Mike Risk / executive chef, O+O Pizza and Clover and the Bee

Flour + Water: Pasta by Paolo Lucchesi and Thomas McNaughton

“‘Flour + Water’s’ first 20 pages give you a great description of what pasta is, how it comes to shape, what to look for and how to make it. It’s what I give to the guys I’m training. I don’t do a lot of tomato sauces or pestos because it’s about making the pasta the star of the dish.”

how to make it.

of the dish.”

Mastering Pasta: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pasta, Gnocchi, and Riso o

by Marc Vetri with David Joachim

“‘Mastering Pasta’ is really fine-tuned, and you’ve really got to be involved in it. You have to read into it and be an expert. Reading those recipes and seeing the techniques in the book are different, but once you get them, you get them.”

Italian-American: Red Sauce Classics and New Essentials: A Cookbook

by Angie Rito, Sco Tacinelli and Jamie Feldmar

“On a pasta standpoint, it’s what Italian American is considered to be. It talks about sourcing ingredients, stamps and the wood boards I roll my pastas on. I find a lot of things through Facebook, Instagram or my own research. I’ve been working on doppio, which is a pasta with filling with two rounds on the sides. The ingredients are really important, and the book goes into that.”

O + O Pizza, 102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, 314-721-5422, oandopizza.oohosp.com

WRITTEN BY AURORA BLANCHARD / PHOTO BY JON PRIESTLEY

ON ONE ONE on

Anne Fosterling / chef de cuisine,

WRITTEN BY ALECIA HUMPHREYS / PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

When Anne Fosterling entered the hospitality industry in 2011, she wasn’t necessarily a stranger to the scene. “I grew up with a single parent who worked as a bartender on the weekends for extra income,” Fosterling says. “So I started working with her at the hotel when I was 15, doing every job imaginable. My mom instilled in me a pride in hard work, but I really fancied myself an academic.” When Fosterling could no longer afford to pursue her degree in history and linguistics, however, she dove headfirst into hospitality. She took on jobs such as portioning and wrapping salumi at Salume Beddu and serving as a garde manger for Five Bistro before becoming the chef de cuisine at The Benevolent King in 2018, where she stayed until complications from the pandemic moved her to Elaia and Olio

Elaia and Olio

What do you enjoy most about working in the STL food scene? The first time I visited Washington D.C., someone tried to impress me by saying they had every cuisine imaginable, and I remember thinking, ‘So does St. Louis.’ Hospitality is comforting and considerate here, even in the back of the house; I can’t tell you how many times I’ve ran to a restaurant nearby because I realized I was out of semolina or parsley or needed a hotel pan and have been met with nothing but helping hands.

What have you learned from working with Ben Poremba and Bengelina Hospitality Group (BHG)? What I’ve learned the most from Ben is how to pick and choose my battles. He always says to me, ‘We’re making food for people, not solving peace in the Middle East.’ BHG is constantly growing and evolving, and I’ve learned how to set priorities for myself and my team so no one ever feels singularly overwhelmed. My motto is, ‘No one’s in the weeds unless we’re all in the weeds.’

How do you think its food stands out? BHG loves a small kitchen, and it’s important to use the space smartly. Every dish is seemingly simple, but a lot of thought goes into imbibing each element with as much flavor as possible. We cold-blanch our herbs and lettuces, poach and brine vegetables, and finish each dish with flavored oils or syrups that we make from things in our gardens. A dish might only have two elements, but it’s bright and fresh and comforting.

What can people expect to see from you in the future? I will be opening and operating a Jewish deli with Ben [Poremba] in early 2023. I know I’m going to miss the hubbub of Elaia and Olio, but I’m excited for the challenge of opening a new restaurant from the ground up.

What goals do you have in the restaurant world? My husband is our head baker for BHG, and we dream of opening a bakery/breadthemed breakfast joint with good coffee and bring-your-own-container bulk goods for sale.

Elaia and Olio, 1634 Tower Grove Ave., Botanical Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-932-1088

Must-Try Dishes at Elaia and Olio

OliO’s beet salad

“Our beet salad at Olio is probably my favorite dish on the menu. It hits every marker – a little sour, a little sweet. It’s salty, earthy, crunchy, creamy and floral all at the same time.”

OliO’s fire-rOasted carrOts

“I’ve been on a singular vegetable dish kick lately, especially the roasted carrots, which we roast in our wood-fired oven until they’re sweet and tender but a little charred.”

elaia’s matzO ball

“[The must-try dish] at Elaia, hands down. It’s perfect, and I have to stop myself after like six of them.”

InMemoriam

Since1959,TheBackStoppershasassistedmorethan180familiesofpoliceofficers,firefightersandpublicly-funded paramedics/EMTsintheregionwhomadetheultimatesacrificeorsufferedacatastrophicinjuryinthelineofduty.

TheBackStopperssupportsfamiliesoffallenheroesbypayingoffalldebt,providinghealthanddentalinsurance,reimbursing forout-of-pocketmedicalexpenses,andassistingwithtuitionandeducationalcostsfromdaycarethroughuniversity.

TheBackStoppersprovidesroughly$2.5millioninassistanceeachyear.Wearesincerelygratefulforyourdedicationto ourmissionthatmadethisassistancepossible.Thankyouforyourgeneroussupport.

Servingthefollowingcounties:

InMissouri: CapeGirardeau,Crawford,Franklin, Jefferson,Lincoln,Montgomery,Perry,Phelps,Pike, St.Charles,St.Francois,St.LouisCity,St.Louis County,Ste.Genevieve,Scott, Warren,andWashington

InIllinois: Bond,Calhoun,Clinton,Jersey, Madison,Monroe,Perry,Randolph, St.Clair,andWashington

Ptlm.LaneBurns BonneTerrePoliceDept. EOW3/17/22

FOREST PARK AVENUE

BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

If you’re not a Saint Louis University student, you might not know about the vibrant, innovative pocket of restaurants located near Forest Park Avenue next to the college’s campus. From sushi burritos to bacos (a bao/ taco combination) to fresh, fruity, frozen cocktails, you’re bound to find something you haven’t tried before.

Juniper

Juniper takes Missouri’s Southern roots to form a menu full of modern dishes and cocktails, all anchored by excellent fried chicken. The grilled hen of the woods mushrooms dish features Jimmy Red corn grits, jalapeño, lime and popped sorghum. The braised beef hash melds together chimichurri, potatoes, peppers, onions and a fried egg to create a filling meal. You’ll also find shrimp and grits (andouille, garlic and Cajun spice) and a hefty serving of fried Brussels sprouts served with a fish sauce vinaigrette on the menu. Sides like collard greens, mac ‘n’ cheese and cornbread make for worthy accompaniments to the hearty Southern mains. We recommend making reservations for this dining experience.

Juniper, 4101 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-329-7696, junipereats.com

Saucy Porka

This Latin American and Asian homestyle cooking restaurant got its start in Chicago, but its Midtown location is the first to be launched in St. Louis. As you might guess from Saucy Porka’s name, pork is the star of the show, with dishes including the chorizo roll (egg roll with ground pork, sweet potatoes, Chihuahua cheese, red cabbage and onions served with jalapeño aïoli) and the guajillo pork banh mi (guajillo-braised pork with jalapeño aïoli topped with kimchi and served on fresh French baguette). You’ll also find vegetarian options, along with beef, duck and shrimp, in Saucy Porka’s assortment of bacos (a bao-taco hybrid), rice bowls, pho and sandwiches.

Saucy Porka, 3900 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-818-2700, saucyporka.com

Blk Mkt Eats

Blk Mkt Eats, the home of St. Louis’ favorite sushi burrito, does not disappoint. The fast-casual interior has an efficiency akin to a sushithemed Subway. There are 14 different rolls (plus seasonal specials) to choose from, which can also be ordered in wonton nacho or poke bowl form. For some spice, try the Tiger Style Salmon burrito with spicy salmon, shrimp tempura, avocado, English cucumber, tempura crunch, crispy shallots, fresh jalapeños, OG Fire sauce and eel sauce wrapped in white rice and nori. If you’re in the mood for something sweeter, try the current seasonal special, The Big Dipper. It includes premium kanikama, shrimp tempura and white rice, inside a sesame seed soy wrap, with ponzu butter dipping sauce on the side.

Blk Mkt Eats, 9 S. Vandeventer Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-391-5100, blkmkteats.square.site

The Scottish Arms

Open since 2005, The Scottish Arms has quickly become a neighborhood classic. Its gastropub interior is paired with hearty European classics, including fish and chips, bangers and mash, gyros and Scotch eggs. You’ll also find elevated options such as duck breast Wellington, with seared duck breast, truffled mushroom duxelles and prosciutto, baked in a pastry crust, and served with creamy ancient grain pilaf, kale and a berry compote reduction. Happy hour is the prime time to visit this pub with its deal of $1 off most drinks. The beer list is surprisingly versatile and hosts offerings ranging from Schlafly’s Oktoberfest beer to Magners Irish cider.

The Scottish Arms, 8 S. Sarah St., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-535-0551, thescottisharms.com

Narwhal’s Crafted

This bar allows guests to bring in outside food, so grab a sushi burrito from Blk Mkt Eats or a baco from Saucy Porka, settle in for your meal, and enjoy a frozen drink or two. These aren’t the gas station slushies from your youth – each frozen drink is made with whole, fresh ingredients. Two must-tries include the Banana Dave, which features freshly puréed bananas, and the Strawberry Basil Lemonade, which incorporates a fresh strawberry purée and housemade lemon simple syrup. There are plenty of flavors to suit your fancy, along with hot cocktails and seasonal specialties, such as the Blueberry Gooey Butter, made with gooey butter cake batter and blueberries.

Narwhal’s Crafted, 3906 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-696-8388, narwhalscrafted.com

COOPER'S LANDING

BLK MARKET EATS | PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

WRITTEN

Talk to any local farmer, maker or chef, and they’ll tell you that the St. Louis community is one of a kind. Residents consistently show up – loud and proud – to support local businesses. This encouraging environment nurtures exceptional culinary talent. Feast’s Rising Stars of 2023 exemplify the creativity of the St. Louis food and drink scene and its bright future. From avant-garde pastry chefs to founders of food equity nonprofits to front-of-house experts, these 10 individuals represent the next generation of industry professionals. Thanks to their efforts, the St. Louis community is more dynamic than ever.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JILLIAN KAYE | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Beaume Co. Macarons – arguably the ho est macarons in town. They became a runaway hit for good reason: Her macaron sets are meticulously handcra ed using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients o en procured from makers in and around St. Louis.

Her personal love of macarons, combined with strong a ention to detail, is what makes her product stand out. “The secret to a good macaron is texture, flavor and execution,” La Beaume says. “If the macaron is well-matured, very flavorful – but never too sweet – and beautiful, with neat feet, this is a perfect macaron. The end product is a work of art, but the process is pure science and precision.”

You can find La Beaume’s macarons through a variety of avenues, which is partly what sparked the buzz around her treats. She offers exclusive flavors and designs at restaurants like Piper’s Tea & Coffee, Ivy Café & Tartines and Sugarwitch, and she sells sets to coordinate with flowers and plants at Rudy’s Flower Truck.

She o en sells holiday and custom sets via Instagram, and customers looking to get their fix on a regular basis can subscribe to Mac Monthly, where they will have access to seasonal sets of macarons with flavors you can’t find anywhere else. “I love complex flavors that follow the seasons; fig chèvre, with black figs, seasonal honey, almond and goat cheese, is a favorite,” La Beaume says.

In the future, La Beaume would love to create a lasting connection between St. Louis’ French roots and the French macaron in whatever way she can, either through her own shop or by helping other businesses stock macarons. For now, she’ll keep things as they are: “I’ve enjoyed the personal confidence that comes from working hard, sharing something you’ve created, and finding that others love it.”

La Beaume Co. Macarons, instagram.com/la__beaume_co_macarons

When it comes to fine dining, front-of-house is just as much a cra as the sauce work or pastry artistry happening in the kitchen. Vicia’s guest relations manager Kyle Langhurst has spent years honing his hospitality skills to ensure guests enjoy an unforge able experience.

Langhurst started as a dishwasher in high school, which proved to be a transformative experience. “I don’t think people o en realize how important of a role that alone is in just keeping the flow and process of the entire restaurant going; that was a really great and very humbling starting point,” he says.

Langhurst went on to work as a waiter and bartender at Cobble Hill Restaurant in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, before starting at Vicia in 2017.

Since joining the team, Langhurst has become the self-described “Swiss Army Knife” of the restaurant. He is trained on all aspects of diner experience, from serving to bartending, which now serves

as the foundation for his role as guest relations manager. “It was kind of a natural progression, being familiar with all the different parts of the restaurant and how those all beautifully fit together to create the ballet that we put on every evening,” he says.

In this nightly performance, Langhurst’s role is to be the main point of contact for guests. He plans curated events, organizes special requests from guests (think proposals or anniversaries) and makes sure every aspect of the dining room is polished. Langhurst talks frequently about “the special touches” and making each guest’s trip unique with unforge able service. “I always have my sights set on curating the magic that is front of house,” he says. “I am passionate about working for people and making very thoughtful food and curating fantastic, memorable dining experiences.”

Vicia, 4260 Forest Park Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-553-9239, viciarestaurant.com

Owner, La Beaume Co. Macarons WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER

Guest relations manager, Vicia | WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

At Spoonful – St. Louis’ first Korean dessert café – Monica Lee painstakingly develops the textures and flavors in her delicate Asian-inspired desserts until they’re just right. Her hard work pays off in the form of ethereally fluffy, snow-like bingsu; chewy, golden brown taiyaki with a uniquely crisp exterior; and a bevy of colorful bubble tea and la es.

Lee initially developed a love for bingsu while traveling abroad, where she constantly sought out the frozen treat. She previously worked in public relations as an executive for an international company based in Beijing, but the pandemic brought her home, where she lent a hand managing her cousin’s business, Joo Joo Restaurant & Karaoke. While rese ling in stateside, she began to miss her go-to refreshment and resolved to make it herself as a special at the restaurant, to the delight of patrons.

It wasn’t long before Lee set out to expand upon the delicious idea and import special tools from overseas to carry out a vision for her own café just doors down from Joo Joo. Her take on bingsu features sweetened milk-based shaved ice layered with carefully

balanced combinations of sauces, toppings and condensed milk. Featured flavors include strawberry, matcha, tiramisu, Biscoff caramel and injeolmi (mochi tossed in roasted soybean powder).

Housemade taiyaki – Japanese-style fish-shaped cakes that are a popular traditional Korean street food – come fresh from the griddle, filled with Nutella, sweet red bean or cinnamon apple, while a growing beverage menu includes everything from dalgona (Korean whipped coffee) with boba to lavender la es made with Blueprint Coffee.

With Spoonful, Lee invites guests to chill out and dig right in to her favorites; she constantly updates the menu with exciting new variations. In Korea, she explains, the café culture invites guests to drop in day or night to hang out and enjoy treats and conversation in a casual, relaxed environment. Lee’s dedication to fostering that sort of fun-filled atmosphere anchored by superb desserts is unparalleled in the area, and St. Louis is all the sweeter for it.

Spoonful, 12943 Olive Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-485-1757, spoonfuldesserts.com

Hailey Boyd, lead line cook and pastry chef at Salve Osteria, always had a passion for baking and desserts. Unfortunately, she found out she was allergic to cinnamon early on in culinary school, which forced her to switch her focus to savory cooking. A er eight years in the St. Louis restaurant industry, she finally found the opportunity to return to her first love: sweets.

Boyd jumped on the chance to join the team at Salve Osteria, which focuses on Mediterranean dishes driven by seasonal, local ingredients. Initially, she worked the line. But one night, a fortuitous accident gave Boyd a chance to showcase her pastry skills: “We sold out of two cannoli cheesecakes one night. I just started doing the desserts as we needed them throughout the week if we ran out.” Soon a er, Boyd took over the dessert menu, and with help from chef Ma Wynn, has been guiding it in new, exciting directions ever since.

The dessert menu at Salve Osteria offers spins on classic Italian and Spanish sweets. Boyd adds poppy seeds and almonds to a traditional lemon olive oil cake, for example. “I am slowly

changing things li le by li le and pu ing my own li le twist on them,” Boyd says.

Salve’s main menu rotates regularly based on seasonality, and guests can expect the same from the dessert menu, such as apple pie with vanilla gelato and caramel in the fall and sorbet and gelato in flavors like watermelon, cantaloupe, blueberry and mango in the summer. Other desserts include a chocolate torte and a cannoli cheesecake.

“I’ve always kind of pictured myself ge ing back toward more desserts,” she says. “It’s what my li le 17-year-old head envisioned when I thought about being in this career.”

Salve Osteria, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., Tower Grove East, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-771-3411, salveosteria.com

Pastry chef, Salve Osteria | WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

Owner, Spoonful

While growing up in a household with her grandmother – a native of Nagoya, Japan – Tanya Key fondly recalls asking her why she worked so hard to prepare so many different dishes to appease the varying appetites around the dinner table.

“She said it was because she wanted to make everybody feel happy and satisfied, and I’ve carried that with me ever since,” Key says. “That was the pinnacle for me. I realized later that’s why I started cooking. It’s not really about doing one thing your way; it’s about doing whatever it takes to make people happy with your food.”

At Arzola’s Fajitas + Margaritas, Key works with a family of seasoned restaurant industry veterans to impart that level of warmth and care to a concept that’s three generations in the making. As the restaurant’s head chef, she has developed a brand new menu full of inventive dishes, such as shrimp tostaditas – an appetizer made up of crispy corn tostadas layered with guacamole and mojo shrimp fajitas with red

chile velvet sauce, grilled pineapple pico and queso Cotija.

Key describes her cooking style as whimsical, with an approach that pinpoints the core values of comfort food, paired with some unexpected twists. At Arzola’s, that translates into taking traditional dishes and injecting fresh new ideas and ingredients into them with her tight-knit kitchen team. “The creativeness that comes out of something like enjoying a meal together – talking about it and adjusting things – is pre y spectacular,” she says.

it and adjusting things – is pre y spectacular,”

“My grandma always said, ‘If you cook your food with love, people will love your food,’” Key says. “My goal is to do exactly what my grandma said and continue making food and creating things so people can enjoy their time with each other and make memories together.”

Arzola’s Fajitas + Margaritas, 2730 McNair Ave., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-226-9672, eatarzolas.com

Head chef, Arzola’s Fajitas + Margaritas | WRITTEN BY MABEL SUEN

Spruce tips, chestnuts, persimmons, wine and cherries: These are all ingredients head brewer Kyle Ma hias works to incorporate into the beers at Sandy Valley Brewing Co., a smallbatch, experimental brewery that shares property with Villa Antonio Winery in Hillsboro, Missouri.

All of these items have another thing in common: They come from the land the brewery sits on. “I’ve always had that connection with nature and wanted to learn how to work in harmony with it and put some flavors into beers that people might not have otherwise tasted or known you could even eat,” Ma hias says.

Ma hias calls himself naturally curious, a trait that carries over to the beers he makes. Certain phrases or words stick with him, like sort sol, the Danish word for a natural phenomenon called black sun. “[Sandy Valley’s beer called] Sortsol is what I imagined that experience to be like if it was a beer, visually and flavor-wise,” Ma hias says. “It’s dark, but not super dark; like blacking out the sun but there’s still a li le light shining through.

There’s these dark flavors of vanilla, marshmallow, bourbon happening.”

Language also inspired Komorebi, an IPA made with spruce tips. The name is the Japanese word for “light filtering through the trees.” Ma hias hopes that people learn something new every time they order a beer.

The beer on tap at Sandy Valley is constantly changing week to week. You might find a lemon-basil beer, with a striking aroma of freshly mowed grass, or a crisp wine-beer hybrid with notes of guava, lychee and passion fruit.

In the future, Ma hias plans to continue exploring the world of wine-beer hybrids, form a sour and spirit-aging program and get even more immersed in the foraging world. “We’re so lucky to have so much out here to play with,” Ma hias says. “Let’s just cross over and blur the lines as much as we can to make some new stuff that hasn’t been out there.”

is what I imagined that experience to be like if it was a beer, visually and flavor-wise,” Ma hias says. “It’s dark, but not super dark; like who

When chefs Ellio Brown and Brandon Panosh were furloughed from their jobs at The Last Hotel in downtown St. Louis, the decades-old friends felt lost without a culinary outlet. “We were having drinks at my house, and I thought, ‘Man, I’m so bored; I want to cook for someone,’” Brown recalls. That day, the chefs hatched a plan to cook for eight people. They put together a menu and posted it on Instagram, and the dinner sold out within 12 hours. The chefs turned to Jordaryl Logan – an experienced beverage director who was also furloughed at The Last Hotel – for the cocktail component, and Dinner at the Lo was born. The experience, set monthly in Brown’s lo in Midtown, is simultaneously familiar and unpredictable. Although it’s a shared meal around a dinner table, the hosts and guests are mostly strangers – people who might never meet one another otherwise. “It’s a pre y

intimate situation,” Brown says. “It’s unlike anything you’ve ever been to – I haven’t heard about it in St. Louis, at least. It leaves out any expectations. Since people have no idea what they’re coming to, it allows us to really wow them.”

Each month, details such as dates, available seats, menus and prices appear on Instagram, and potential guests send a message to reserve a spot. Free from the limits of a conventional restaurant kitchen, Brown, Panosh and Logan dream up whatever they want and run with it, with Brown focused on bold flavors and Panosh plating dishes with artistic flair. The chefs receive lists each week from local farmers, turn on music, and develop a menu – typically with vegetables at the forefront.

Once the menu is done, it’s sent to Logan, who creates perfectly paired beverages. “I almost

have a visual of the cocktail before I have the exact recipe,” he says. The trio also runs a mobile catering business and has no plans of resting on their laurels; Brown’s family owns a building in Midtown that’s been passed down through generations. With the area poised to enter a renaissance period, the group agrees it’s the perfect place to build out a restaurant within the next year.

have a visual of the cocktail before I have the says. The trio also runs a mobile catering business and has no of a building in Midtown that’s been passed down through generations. With the area poised to enter a renaissance period, the group agrees it’s the perfect place to build out a restaurant within the next year.

Dinner at the Lo , instagram.com/dinnera helo

Sandy Valley Brewing Co., 3660 Linhorst Road, Hillsboro,

Co-founders, Dinner at the Lo

WRITTEN BY EMILY STANDLEE

Head brewer at Sandy Valley Brewing Co. | WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

From le to right, Ellio Brown, Jordaryl Logan and Brandon Panosh

St. Louis native Brogan Drissell was a teacher in the San Francisco Bay Area before moving to Los Angeles in 2016. There, he found work at a natural wine bar called El Prado. “Before that, I’d been into beer,” Drissell says. “But ge ing this job at a natural wine bar opened that world up to me, and I realized how incredible wine is and how I hadn’t been exposed to the good stuff.” With “the good stuff” still in mind, Drissell returned to St. Louis in 2019.

“Then, COVID hit,” he says. “We’d been si ing on this idea for a few years until it felt right to open a bar.” Drissell and his partner Emily Kostiuk opened ´ssippi, a natural wine bar, on Cherokee Street in July 2022 to quick acclaim. Kostiuk has a background in horticulture. “It might not seem connected to what we do at ´ssippi, but natural wine is closely tied to modern movements within horticulture: sustainability, biodiversity and ethical farming practices,” she says.

Indeed, natural wine is made using organic, certified organic and biodynamic farming – a process that’s been around since the 1920s. Biodynamic farming groups together the farm, garden, vineyard or orchard as a complete, living organism and focuses on the different relationships between plants and animals in a certain space. “I think we’re helping people expand the boundaries of what a wine bar can be; we wanted to open a space that was inclusive, plus have a wide range of price points,” Drissell says.

With 15 by-the-glass options, wine, beer, sparkling teas and cocktails on tap, and 50 different bo le options in the retail section, finding a new favorite wine is easy. Drissell says orange wine, in all its funky, citrusy glory, is a runaway hit. “Natural wine and orange wine kind of hold hands, and people link them for good reason,” he says. As for the future? Kostiuk mentions opening another bar in the city that would double as an event space, as well as an expansion of ‘ssippi’s food program. Her third love – beyond natural wine and horticulture – is anything scent-related: “I’d love to open a store specializing in niche and independent fragrances,” she says. “It’s such an all-encompassing experience,” Drissell adds. “I’m just looking to next week right now.”

‘ssippi, 2926 Cherokee St., Gravois Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-922-8518, instagram.com/ssippi_stl/

Co-owners, ‘ssippi | WRITTEN BY EMILY STANDLEE

Nick Speed wears many hats, and every one of them is dedicated to supporting the community. Born and raised in St. Louis, Speed began working with United Way in 2014, specifically with high school and college students. In 2016, he started an AmeriCorps team at EarthDance Organic Farm School in Ferguson, Missouri. These experiences led to a relationship with Clay Elementary School in North St. Louis, where he became an outdoor educator. “I was essentially given the ability to alter the garden spaces as I saw fit,” he says. A er learning that many of the students had never worked in a garden before, Speed founded Ujima, an organization that supports food justice, environmental stewardship and youth empowerment.

Through the program, which launched in 2018, the students grew produce and donated it to families of color in St. Louis. This turned into a monthly produce donation, continued food cultivation and an urban agriculture apprenticeship program. “Eighty percent of our facilitators for the program are either Black or represent some marginalized identity,” Speed says. “I think that is so unique in terms of representation for the program itself; although we

Throughout the past year, chef Jedidiah Borja has been making waves with his island-inspired cuisine at area markets and events. Chef Jedi, or Jed, as many know him, cooks up his Chamorro-style barbecue under the moniker of Hafa Adai Catering, which gets its name from a common Guamanian greeting used to say “hello,” “how are you” and “goodbye.”

Borja’s business is a family affair, run with the help of his wife, Mary Borja, and kids – Alayla, Zander and Elli – and it’s heavily inspired by his heritage. His father, who also helps out occasionally, is from Guam; his supportive mother, who lives in Oklahoma, has Filipino roots. While growing up in Florida with three siblings, Borja developed a love for food from watching his father and grandmother prepare humble, nourishing communal meals for their family, friends and neighbors.

With more than 20 years of professional experience under his belt, including executive chef positions at Local Harvest Cafe and Vito’s in the Valley, Borja now confidently presents his take on island fare to St. Louis. He describes his cooking style as

homey and inspired by traditional dishes but with his own personal touches to make them as inclusive for as many types of diners as possible. He utilizes allergy-friendly ingredients, such as gluten-free and vegan fish sauce, oyster sauce and hoisin for his sauces and barbecue marinades.

have a small sample size, we have one of the best youth programs in the country.”

With money collected from fundraising in 2021, Ujima purchased a house and five lots near Fairground Park: George Washington Carver Farms. “The plan in the spring is to start producing at the urban farm,” Speed says. “We should have close to 3,000 pounds of food next year.”

A long-term goal is cleaning up the neighborhood around the urban farm, which has fallen victim to illegal dumping. “We remove a lot of the debris that accumulates in vacant lots,” Speed says. “That’s something I’m passionate about because these conditions make communities unsafe for the folks who live in them. We want to do our part to revitalize the historic Fairground neighborhood and build healthy communities – not just grow food.”

Ujima, 4579 Laclede Ave. #408, Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-390-5175, ujimastl.com

With his casual comfort food, Borja hopes to impart the sort of happiness that only home cooking can conjure. Popular items from his menu include chicken or tofu barbecue bowls with finadeni (soy sauce and lemon juice), vegetable pancit (a rice noodle dish), musubi, musubi bowls, chicken or pork adobo tacos and nachos and chicken kelaguen – a chicken and coconut chop salad.

and salad

Look for Borja’s stand at various Tower Grove Farmers' Market events and pop-ups throughout the year.

Hafa Adai Catering, St. Louis, hafaadaicatering.com

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Founder and executive director, Ujima | WRITTEN BY EMILY STANDLEE

Owner, Hafa Adai Catering | WRITTEN BY MABEL SUEN

Dave Blum and Autumn Sij, co-owners of Such and Such Farm, initially had to innovate for their business’ survival during the pandemic. Now, they’re innovating to thrive. The married duo began the farm in 2013 in De Soto, Missouri, by selling sustainable, organic produce to local restaurants. At the time, almost 80 percent of their business fell into this sector. When COVID-19 hit, and restaurants stopped placing orders, Blum and Sij had to adapt quickly to keep the farm afloat.

Such and Such pivoted to offering private farm dinners, starring its produce, hosted on the scenic and picturesque homestead. They partnered with acclaimed local chefs, such as Josh Galliano, Mike Risk, Jesse Mendica and Ryan McDonald, to create multi-course meals using Such and Such’s produce and meat. “We [thought], how about we have our [chef] friends come here for the true farm-to-table experience?” Sij says.

Thanks to these collaborations, Blum and Sij now not only see the

technology, farming, confections and more. From producing allergy-friendly vegan ice cream to comba ing food deserts in East St. Louis, these five leaders are taking their entrepreneurial dreams to new heights.

but also view

fruits and vegetables they grow as their livelihood, but also view them as ingredients to make art. “I didn’t understand the deal with fine dining, and [Josh Galliano] explained to me that it’s like temporary art,” Blum says. “It’s like a sand mandala. They place individual grains of sand, and they make this beautiful picture. Then people come and enjoy it, and they just wipe it away.”

This spring, the farm will begin another series of private farmto-table dinners, and St. Louisans can expect even more events in the works. “I think it’d be really fun to be able to offer more services to people in St. Louis and Jefferson County,” Blum says.

The pair says they’d also love to do instructional classes on the farm on cheesemaking, gardening and butchering. “We really want to focus on great guest experiences,” Sij says.

Such and Such Farm, 13703 Fandel Dr., De Soto, Missouri, suchandsuchfarm.com

Owners, Such and Such Farm | WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

Feast’s 2023 class of Industry Innovators demonstrates all the ways in which St. Louis is earning its spot on the national food stage. These individuals are pushing the boundaries in multiple fields:

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JILLIAN KAYE | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

A er traveling throughout Central America and France in his early 20s, Seth Hamilton returned home knowing one thing: He wanted to give marginalized youth the same opportunities that he had. Fi een years later, he runs a thriving, trailblazing nonprofit called Go! International. Through the nonprofit’s program East Side Grows, students grow thousands of pounds of fresh produce each year for their community, which is located in a dire food desert.

“As we've seen repeatedly, when our kids that lack access to resources have the same access, they're just as capable as anybody from anywhere else,” Hamilton says.

The building blocks of the nonprofit are a foreign language school, financial literacy lessons and entrepreneurship skills.

“They're learning how to be socially responsible with their business to make sure that they're providing something that is organic, locally grown and beneficial to the community,” Hamilton says. “Not to mention character development; the way that you're growing people that you're working with, and how you grow yourself. They’re lessons that coincide with watching

Go! International WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

the entire season from seed to harvest.”

Hamilton’s goal is that students will grow up and take ownership of Go! International. “I live here in East St. Louis, but I'm not from here … I will never know how to address the problems in the same way as somebody who actually [is from] here," Hamilton says.

This process is already happening – his very first student will be the program director at Go! International’s new second site for all programs, including another garden at East St. Louis Senior High School, where they’ll host an a er-school program.

Hamilton says the best way people can help Go! International and East Side Grows is by donating. Using a sustainability model, the students will use the money to help East Side Grows

“Just know that your contribution goes very, very far with our organization to impact a lot of kids – not just in East St. Louis, but even for them to go and have an impact around

Go! International, go-int.org

Chocolates WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER

Meggie Mobley never planned on opening a retail spot – she simply needed a headquarters for wholesale and production of her handcra ed bonbons. But cities have their rules, and retail was required, which Mobley says has been essential to her growth, thanks to repeat customers and a centralized location in Des Peres.

Her bonbons – three-dimensional works of art you can’t help but notice – can be found in 10 different locations around the city, including in shops such as Coffeestamp and Sugarwitch. Bijoux Chocolates is Mobley’s baby, built from years of scribbled thoughts in notebooks that she transformed into edible, rainbow-hued jewels, but she credits her family for where she is today: “I definitely haven’t done it all by myself. I have a very large support group of people who are willing to stop everything and help me at any point in time.” Mobley’s family members o en play supporting roles, from painting to packaging, in order to keep up with Bijoux's high demand.

Mobley recently opened the doors to a new Webster Groves

location to house her production and retail operations, while the original Des Peres spot stays open for retail. She’s created a signature line of mainstays but is always hunting for what’s next and is o en inspired by sweet and savory dishes and cocktails. She’s found in her customers a willingness for adventure and routinely pushes the envelope with textures and flavors, o en layering sweet and sour, crispy and creamy, and so and hard.

“When I put together the 12 year-round flavors, I was like, ‘Okay, I’ll do milk, dark, salted caramel – and then I’m going to get weird,’” Mobley says. “I need you to know that there are flavors that are very approachable and flavors you can experiment with.”

Bijoux Handcra ed Chocolates, multiple locations,

their and how watching

Owner, Bijoux

Founder,

Sco Morrissey grew up on Ted Drewes Frozen Custard. A er becoming vegan, he missed enjoying his favorite frozen treat during hot St. Louis summers. This nostalgia inspired him to found Wandering Yeti & Co., an “allergy-friendly and cruelty-free microcreamery.” Coconut is frequently the base for vegan ice creams, but Morrissey was looking for something creamier. A er lots of research, he developed a soy milk-based recipe that was decadent without the a ertaste and started making it regularly for family and friends.

Morrissey was a stay-at-home parent at the time and was looking for employment. He quickly realized that he was more passionate about ice cream than any of the jobs he applied for –thus, Wandering Yeti was born. Because his oldest son had dietary restrictions, Morrissey says it was difficult for his family to find food they were all able to eat. He was motivated to make his ice cream as allergy-inclusive as possible and took in customer feedback to develop his business model. He transitioned to an oat milk-based recipe for those allergic to soy and started developing flavors free from most major allergens, like gluten and nuts. Morrissey

later developed an oat-free ice cream made of pea protein milk and hopes to feature more oatfree flavors as well.

Although the ice cream is low on allergens, it’s big on flavor. Flavors include dulce de leche, cookie dough and cookies and cream. Raspberry Beret features a vanilla bean base with caramelized raspberry ribbon for a tart finish. Morrissey’s personal favorites include eggnog and mint chip.

The business’ name, Wandering Yeti, of course references the famous resident of the Himalayas. “The public view of the yeti has drastically changed over time,” he says of his inspiration.

“In the ‘60s and ‘50s, yetis were angry and scary and evil.” Now, Morrissey says the yeti shows up in kids’ movies as a sweet, kind creature. He notes that this transformed perception is parallel to the public’s opinions on animals and vegan cuisine.

“Everyone’s view of animals seems to be more compassionate,” Morrissey says. “The public perception is changing.”

Wandering Yeti & Co., facebook.com/WanderingYetiAndCo, instagram.com/wanderingyetiandCo further than

For a warm cookie any time – day or night – look no further than your nearest CookieBot. The custom-built warm cookie vending machine dispenses baked goods to satisfy your sweet tooth 24/7, and it’s all thanks to an ingenious invention coined right here in St. Louis by Mike Evans, the owner and operator of Alibi Cookies.

Like many during the beginning of the pandemic, Evans found himself out of work. The former DJ, party bus company owner and restaurant manager passed the time in early 2020 by scrolling through social media during the shutdown. A er coming across a Facebook post about the robust culture of vending machines in Japan and their ability to dispense everything from la es to sushi, a thought occurred to him: “What if I put cookies in a vending machine that could keep them warm?”

To his surprise, no one else in the U.S. had developed this idea yet. And with the rise of contactfree food service, it seemed like a no-brainer to implement his strategy as soon as possible. Evans

went to work conducting experiments and utilizing mini fridges as prototypes before connecting with an overseas manufacturer to design a life-size warm vending machine to his specifications.

Since its start in 2020, Alibi Cookies has rolled out four CookieBots and opened three brick-and-mortar storefronts, with a fourth location and CookieBot coming soon to downtown St. Louis. Three vending machines are connected to Alibi’s storefront locations in St. Louis’ Dogtown, Jefferson City, Missouri, and St. Charles, Missouri – you can find them right outside the shops’ doors. Another is located inside late-night haunt Pop’s Nightclub in Sauget, Illinois.

Each CookieBot comes stocked with about 10 different flavors of Alibi Cookies’ signature sweets, including variety packs for the adventurous. All in all, Evans has developed about 18 different recipes, including seasonal options that come in and out of rotation.

Alibi Cookies, multiple locations, alibicookies.com

Founder, Wandering Yeti & Co. | WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

Owner, Alibi Cookies | WRITTEN BY MABEL SUEN