THE TACO PIZZA Revolution TOUR OF U.S. Pie Styles INSTA-FAMOUS Pizza september 2022 The Pizza Issue A Slice of St. Louis A Slice ofA St. Louis
4 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 32 THE COOLEST CLUB IN ST. LOUIS Nicky Slices Pizza / 11 / THE DISH Felix’sSlicesatPizzaPub / 12 / MIDWEST MADE RedSaucesFromTheHill / 15 / HEALTHY APPETITE GrilledFlatbreadWithGarlic,HerbandTomatoConfit / 16 / CRASH COURSE ReheatingLeftoverPizza / 18 / MYSTERY SHOPPER ShisoLeaves / 20 / QUICK FIX CreoleShrimpPizza /21 / CULINARY LIBRARY PizzeriaJoeKurowskiofdaGloria / 22 / HOMETOWN HITS EllisvillePizzaJoints / 23 / RESTAURANTSREVIEWED HighlightsFromIanFroeb / 24 / SHOP HERE PastariaDeli&Wine / 25 / ONE ON ONE ofJoeLuckeyFordo’sKillerPizza / 26 / ON TREND TacoPizza / 28 / SEARCHING FOR SPECIALTY SLICES PizzasATourofRegionallyInspiredinSt.Louis
09/24 Schnucks Cooks: Creole Shrimp Pizza Sat., September 24, 3 to 6pm; $55; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, cooking-schoolnourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/Missouri; In this class, we will learn all about Louisiana cuisine and serve up classic dishes with plenty of flavor and Southern flair. We’ll make Creole shrimp pizza, Cheddar grits and chicken and sausage gumbo. For dessert, we’ll enjoy bread pudding with bourbon sauce. at the Tell us what you think! Give us your thoughts about Feast Magazine and be entered to win a $250 Visa Gift Card. Take the survey: feastmagazine.com/Survey See complete rules at: www.feastmagazine.com/SurveyRules learn more your next private party or corporate event with us! located just a few blocks from the ballpark. 1220 s 8th street, st. louis, mo 63118
GARDEN
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scan here to
5september 2022 / feastmagazine.com 09/09 Feast at the Garden Fri., September 9, 5 to 7pm, 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, Affton, Missouri Join Feast as we celebrate the release of the September issue! Enjoy live music, tasty bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen while learning more about one of St. Louis’ favorite traditions and most ubiquitous takeout staples – pizza!
6 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 SOYLEIC™ higholeicsoybeanoildeliversaneutralflavorprofile,keeping yourmenufavoritesconsistentandcustomerscomingbackformore. SPONSOREDBYUNITEDSOYBEANBOARD GETMOREFROM YOUROILWITH VISIT SOYLEIC.COM TOLEARNMORE.
7feastmagazine.com / september 2022 Imagineyour home,totally organized! 2018©A llR igh tsR eser v ed .Closetsb yD esig n,I nc CustomClosets GarageCabinets HomeOffices Pantries,Laundries andHobbyRooms. Pantry www.closetsbydesign.com SPECIALFINANCING forupto18Months! Withapprovedcredit.CalloraskyourDesigner fordetails.Notavailableinallareas. 40%Off Plus FREE Installation PD CallforFreeEstimate 314-310-0099 LocallyOwnedandOperated Likeusonand 40%offanyorderof$1,000ormore,upto30%offanyorderof$700ormore.OnanycompleteCloset,Garage,orHomeOffice.Takeanadditional 15%offonanycomplete systemorder.Notvalidwithanyotheroffer.Freeinstallationwithanycompleteunitorderof$500ormore.Withincomingorder,attimeofpurchaseonly. Expires9/30/2022. ChickenModega•Breakfast•BBQ•Taco•Chicken Alfredo•MeatLover’s•ChickenArtichoke•Hawaiian •BuffaloChicken•Vegetarian•BuildYourOwn Pizzasareavailablefrozenandoven-ready. OrderaspecialtypizzabyTuesdayandpick-uponFriday! We’remorethanjustameatmarket!Wealsomakeour ownpizzausingaMozzarella-Provelcheeseblendalong withthefreshestvegetables…andofcourse,onlythe freshestmeats!Choosefromoneofourspecialtypizzas orpre-orderandbuildyourown. Weekdays9am-6pm•Saturday8am-5pm Sunday9am-4pm•314-631-2440 4324WeberRoadSt.Louis,MO63123 www.kenricks.com
8 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 SEPTEMBER 2022 VOLUME 12 / ISSUE 09 Inspired Local Food Culture / st . louis SALES VICE PRESIDENTOF SALES Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com MEDIA STRATEGIST Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com ART ARTDIRECTOR Dawn dawn.deane@feastmagazine.comDeane, ASSISTANTARTDIRECTOR Laura lauradevlieger@laduenews.comDeVlieger, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Christina Kling-Garrett, Ben Nickelson, Paige McDonald , Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen CONTACT US Feast Magazine 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 feastmagazine.com314.475.1260 EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Emily emily.adams@feastmagazine.comAdams, MANAGING EDITOR Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlotte Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com FACT CHECKER Meghan Baker PROOFREADER Alecia Humphreys CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Amanda Bretz, Kasey Carlson, Amy Feese, Alecia Humphreys, Mabel Suen, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera DISTRIBUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson at rhudson@post-dispatch.com. ON THE COVER Pizzarelli's Pizzeria is well-known for its New York-style, hand-tossed pies loaded with fresh toppings. Photo by Christina Kling-Garrett. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chef-owner Nicky Williams. Photo by Charlotte Renner. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by Lee Enterprises..
9september 2022 / feastmagazine.com
editor’s letter
To me, nothing says a fun evening, gathered around a table with family and friends, quite like a pizza pie. To celebrate one of the world’s most beloved takeout staples – not to mention one of St. Louis’ most revered traditions – we packed this issue with all that’s “best in dough” right now in the metro area.
Flip to p. 28 to take a tour around the U.S. via local pizza joints serving up regional styles from across the country. And on p. 26, we answer the question we know you’ve all been asking: What is the deal with taco pizza, and why is it appearing on every menu all of a sudden? Save this recipe for a healthy flatbread that wows on p. 15, and score expert tips on reheating your leftover slices like a pro – from the microwave to the oven to the air fryer – on p. 16. Explore the top pizzerias of Ellisville on p. 22, discover the herb you’ll wish you had been decking your pies out with all along on p. 18, and add Joe Kurowski of Pizzeria da Gloria’s favorite pizza cookbooks –featured on p. 21 – to your cart ASAP. Still hungry for more? Check out the home of St. Louis’ biggest slice on p. 11, and read our conversation with Joe Luckey of Fordo’s Killer Pizza on p. 25. And if this issue inspires you to toss a pizza in your own kitchen, visit feastmagazine.com for all of the necessary ingredients to throw the ultimate pizza party at home. Say cheese! Emily Adams emily.adams@feastmagazine.com @
This issue has a pizza my heart.
From the Instagram-based pizza maker who has developed a cult following of the coolest foodies in STL (p. 32) to the most shop-worthy red sauces coming out of The Hill (p. 12), every page has something to offer ’za lovers of all topping types.
10 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 PROMOTION Asthedoorclosesonwarmerweather, wewelcomethechangeinseasonandhow it impactsour dailyroutine.Fromflexibilityandfuninthesummer months, it’sanice transitiontothecoolerweather andpredictabilityofthefallroutine.It’snotonlykids whothriveinroutines.Havingmoreofasetschedulehelpsus buildandstickwith healthier habits.Whetherit’sgettingmoresleep,cookingmoreathomeorexercising regularly,whenwe havearoutinethesegoalsareeasier toachieve. OnefallroutineIlovegettingbackintoissittingdownforfamilymealstogether.We strivetodothisyearround,butbetween vacations,campandother eventsthese aren’tasregularasI’dlike.Eachnightafter work,Imeetmygirlsandhusbandinthe kitchen and we prepareourdinner andtabletoeattogether.MyhusbandandItagteamcookingandgetthegirlsinvolvedsettingthetableorpreppingourmealsoonce dinner isready we canallsit downtogether to enjoy.Icherishthistimeknowingmy 2-and5-yearoldgirlswon’talwaysbeexcitedtohelpmestirthepotofnoodlesorset outplates,butrightnowtheyareeager tohelpand it getsthem excitedaboutwhat willbeontheirdinner platesthatnight. Althoughcookingeverysinglenightsounds daunting,Ifindwaystocookonce and eattwice.Makingadishlikethismonth’sVegetableLasagnaissomethingfunforthe girlstohelpmeputtogether,fullofGoodForYoufoodsand we cansavetheleftovers inthefreezer makingdinner foranother nighteasy.Formoreideasoneasymealsfor yourfamilydinners,pickupthismonth’seditionof SimplySchnucks Magazine Findamealyourfamilywillloveandjoinmeinfittingfamilymealsbackintoyour regular routine. CONNECTINGTHROUGH FOOD WITHFAMILYMEALS SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISONPRIMO SCHNUCKSREGISTEREDDIETITIAN OptintoGoodForYouand learnmoreatschnucks.com/goodforyou scan here Preheatoven to350degrees.Cooklasagnaaccordingtopackagedirections,set aside.Inalargeskilletover mediumhigh,add½tbsp oil.Addmushroomsand cook6-8minutes,oruntilbrownedandsoftened.Setasideinmediumbowlto cool.Addspinach,ricottaandeggtobowlwiththemushrooms.Stirtocombine. Returnskillettoburner,addremaining oil,peppers,zucchiniandonion.Season withsalt andpepperif desired.Cookfor10-12minutes,untilbrownedandtender Reduce heattolow,addgarlic,pastasauce andbasiluntilwarmedthrough. Coata9x13bakingdishwithnonstickspray.Cover bottomofdishwith1/3 noodles,topwith1/3ofthesaucemixtureandcrumble½oftheburrataontop. Layanother 1/3noodlesdownandtopwithricottamixture.Place remaining noodlesontop,addremainingsauce andevenlytopwithremainingcheese. Cover withfoilandcookfor25minutes.Uncover andcookfor15moreminutesor untilcheeseisbrowned.Letsit 15minutesbeforeserving. PREPARATION BURRATAANDVEGETABLELASAGNA SERVES12 1boxwholewheatlasagna 1Tbspvegetableoil,divided 1lbmushrooms,sliced 1redbellpepper,diced 1greenbellpepper,diced 1smallzucchini,diced ½mediumonion,diced 2clovesgarlic,minced 124ozjarCulinaria Pastasauce 1Tbspfreshchoppedbasil ½cupfrozenspinach,thawed 115ozcontainer ricottacheese 1egg 18ozcontainer burratacheese
Biggest
inSliceTheSTL
Felix’s Pizza Pub has been a mainstay in Dogtown for nearly 20 years. What is it that keeps people coming back? Well, it could be its enormous single slices – which are a quarter of an 18-inch pie – that it claims are the biggest slice in St. Louis.
Felix’s Pizza Pub offers a totally customizable, totally huge single slice.
“People are pretty impressed when they get it on their plates,” co-owner Steven VanderKolb says.
Can’t pick a pizza topping that will please everyone? Now, you don’t have to.
Felix’s Pizza Pub, 6401 Clayton Ave., Dogtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.645.6565, felixspizzapub.com
STORY AND PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE RENNER
11september 2022 / feastmagazine.com THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
VanderKolb owns Felix’s Pizza Pub (along with Sunny’s Cantina just down the road) with his friends Tom Galbraith and chef Andy Roesch. Roesch went to culinary school at Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island, where he was exposed to the wonders of huge, New York-style slices of pizza. “Whenever I came back [to St. Louis], I was missing that in my life,” Roesch says. “I couldn’t find it anywhere. So that’s what I wanted to do for Felix’s Pizza Pub.” Felix’s Pizza Pub’s crust is influenced by East Coast styles, according to VanderKolb. The menu is made of specialty pizza flavors named after various Dogtown landmarks, such as Turtle Park, Art Hill and Franz Park. But the most popular by far is an all-meat classic: The Dogtown. The Dogtown includes Volpi pepperoni, G&W Italian sausage and pepper bacon. All of these meats are cooked on Felix’s smoker outside the restaurant before going on the slice. If you’re not feeling the all-meat slice, don’t worry. The biggest slice in St. Louis can be ordered in any of Felix’s specialty flavors, or you can choose your own toppings. At $9.99 per specialty slice, you get a pretty good deal for a slice of pizza so large that you could make a second meal out of it. Felix’s also has a new, special slice flavor for you to try every week. “It settles a lot of disagreements about what topping to get,” VanderKolb says. “Everyone at the table can get what they like best.”
RIGAZZI’S Rigazzi’s is the oldest restaurant on The Hill – dating back to 1957 – so it’s no surprise that its pasta sauce is a noteworthy local product. Although the restaurant is known for its handmade toasted ravioli, which provide a perfect backdrop for red sauce, try spreading the flavorful sauce, available in 33-ounce jars, on a pizza.
12 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
ZIA’S Founded in 1985, Zia’s became an official city landmark in 2000. The Hill neighborhood mainstay launched its jarred, full-bodied pasta sauce, adapted from a family recipe, in 2006. After a disastrous fire in 2009 that gutted the whole building, Zia’s reopened the following year to continue its legacy of fine Italian food and products.
J. VIVIANO & SONS
TASTE OF THE HILL Taste of the Hill pasta sauces have been a local mainstay at markets throughout the Midwest since 1996. The brand comes from River Town Foods, which was founded in 1969. Its jarred tomato sauce features a base of tomato purée and diced tomatoes, cooked with roasted garlic, onions and spices.
WRITTEN BY MABEL SUEN | PHOTOS SUPPLIED
Since 1950, J. Viviano & Sons has been supplying The Hill neighborhood with authentic Italian food. The specialty store carries its own private label pizza sauce that’s mild with a sweet taste. Additional red sauce options on hand include pancetta sauce, tomato basil pasta sauce and giardiniera marinara.
DIGREGORIO’S ITALIAN MARKET
For more than 50 years, this familyowned and -operated market has offered Italian specialty foods, including its own line of prepared foods. DiGregorio’s pizza sauce is made from scratch in-house and frozen for a fresher-tasting product free of preservatives. Made with crushed tomatoes, garlic, Parmesan and Romano cheeses and Italian spices, it’s the perfect grab-and-go base for your next pie.
Red Sauces From The Hill A good tomato sauce provides the perfect canvas for a variety of complementary pizza toppings, and St. Louis has no shortage of quality options from area makers. For the best prepared options to incorporate into your home cooking, look no further than The Hill. Check out these red sauces from local institutions if you want a great pick without the hassle of preparing your own.
13feastmagazine.com / september 2022 Enjoythecharm,history,andwineswhiletakinginbreathtakingviewsoftherollinghills.Sitoutsideandenjoythewinegardens,playgames, andenjoyfamilytime.Hopon/offthefreetrolleystoshopintownor enjoyaglassofwineatourvineyards.AugustaisWINECOUNTRY. PARTOFTHEHOFFMANNFAMILYOFCOMPANIES www.VisitAugustaMO.com
VEGETABLES Moving toa plant-baseddiet isan excellentopportunityto getcreative andlet vegetables take thelead. Swapin a beefy portobellomushroom cap for a thickhamburger pattytosave a heapof caloriesandaddfiber and B vitamins.Usecauliflower insteadofpoultryfor avegetarian yetflavorful take onGeneral Tso’s chicken. Nobody willmiss the meatinenchiladasstuffedfullof beansand roasted vegetables orlayertheminsteadwith pasta and saucefor a hearty lasagna. Optionsare limitless!
14 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 PROMOTION
NUTRITIONFACTS 1serving =2tacos 300 calories,19gfat, 33g carbohydrates,7g protein
TheUnitedStatesisacountryof voracious meateaters.In2020,theaverageAmerican consumedanestimated264poundsofmeat, farmorethancitizensofalmosteveryother nation.Sonaturallytheideaofpivoting towardaplant-baseddietseemsdaunting,at leastatfirst.Butitdoesn’tnecessarilymean sayinggoodbyetobarbecuesandSunday roastsaltogether.It’ssimplyshiftingmore focustowardfruits,vegetables,nutsandwhole grains—andreapingthemanybenefitsthat comewiththem.
Placecauliflowerpieceson
1tspminced
½tsp
PREPARATION Preheat
Inexpensive, versatileand fullofnutrients, legumes —a family thatincludeslentils, beansandpeas are having a moment. More peoplethan everareexperimentingwith them,blendingchickpeasinto hummusormakingbeansinthe pressurecooker. Indiets that are less dependentupon redor processedmeats, legumesably stepup to theplateto deliver essentialproteinandiron.Plus, they’re highinfiber, low in fat andglutenfree.
ONTENT BY K THERINE LEWIS
Juice
“Ahealthyplant-baseddietisnutrientdense. It hasalotoffiberandreducesinflammation whileboostingtheimmunesystem,”says AdetunjiToriola,Ph.D.,aWashington UniversityprofessorofsurgeryatSiteman CancerCenter.Aplatebrimmingwithplants andwholegrainscan bequitefilling andvery lowincalories—whenthey’renotprepared withanexcessofsaltorbutter.“It istherefore nosurprisethatstudieshaveshownthat eatingahealthy,plant-based dietcanhelp withweightcontrolandlowertheriskofheart disease,highbloodpressure,diabetesand certaincancers.And itmayeven help lengthen life,”Toriolasays. Eatingmoreplant-basedfoodscanhelp protecttheEarth.Ittakesatremendous amountofnaturalresourcestosupport, processandtransportlivestock.Cuttingdown onmeatconsumptiongivestheplanetabreak fromthestrain. Butnoteveryplant-basedproductis inherentlyhealthy.Meat-freefoodscanbe heavilyprocessedtoo:Sugarydrinks,cereals, whitebreadandwhitericearecommon culprits.If youneedideasorsupport,reach outtoadieticianforhelp.Alittlelegworkcan yieldexcellentresults.“Overall,ahealthy, largelyplant-baseddiethasbenefitsfor individualsandtheplanet—andisagreatgoal formostpeople,”Toriolasays. Hesuggestsintroducingelementsofanynew dietslowly.“Forexample,gomeatlessforone mealaweek.Trythatforafewweeks,andthen growfromthere.Andtrytomakethisnewway ofeatingfunbyencouraging yourkidsandother familymemberstoexplorenewplant-based recipesandtosharethepreparationandcooking.” cup sourcream (orplainGreek yogurt) garlic ofone lime ¼tsp salt cumin oven to450°F bakingsheet.In a smallbowl, combineolive oil,cumin, chilepowder,cayennepepper and salt. Pourmixtureover cauliflowerand tosstocoat. Placebakingsheetin ovenand roast for30 to 40minutes. Remove from ovenandplace roasted cauliflowerinmixing bowl. Add canofblackbeans and gentlycombine.In a small bowl,mixallingredientsfor thecrema.Assemblethe tacos by adding cauliflowermixture, toppingwiththelimecrema andsprinkleofcilantro.
HOW— ANDWHY —TO BY
LEGUMES
NUTS Reach fornuts andimprove hearthealth:They’reterrific sourcesofthe“good” fatthat’s shown to lowercholesterol,as wellasomega-3fatty acids, which reduce theriskofheart attackandstroke.While walnuts andalmondsmakeparticularly healthy snacks, nuts ofall varietiesbringbenefits— as longasthey aren’tcoveredin salt,sugarorchocolate,thatis They are highin calories,sokeep portions toa smallhandful.
ADETUNJI TORIOLA, Ph.D. WashingtonUniversityprofessorofsurgery atSitemanCancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER YOURHEALTHTIPS Roasted Cauliflower andBlack Bean Tacos INGREDIENTS 1 large cauliflower, cutinto bite-size pieces ¼ cup olive oil 2tsp cumin 2tsp chilepowder ½tsp cayennepepper ½tsp salt 1can blackbeans 8 tortillas (cornorflour) Cilantro for garnish (optional) FORLIMECREMA ¼
SEEDS Sneak some seedsintoyour favoriterecipes foraninfusion ofvitamins, mineralsand antioxidants. Aslittleasone tablespoonofflaxseeds a day cansignificantly boostfiber;try theminsmoothiesor yogurt. Pumpkin seeds(pepitas) are a fine source ofzinc Sprinkle themwith savory spicesthen roast toagoldenbrown,or bake into muffinsandbreads.Sesame seedsandsunflower seedsmay besmall,butthey’re richin selenium —a vitalantioxidant thathelps mitigatecelldamage. BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER
SPONSORED CONTENT PHOTO PROVIDED
PIVOTTOA PLANT-BASED DIET PRESENTED
1 lb ripe grape or cherry tomatoes
1 tsp coarse salt / tomato confit preparation / Preheat the oven to 260°F. Place the tomatoes, garlic and herbs on a baking dish, season with salt, and pour the olive oil to cover. Roast the tomato mixture for 2 hours. Remove the tomatoes from the oven, and cool at room temperature in the same dish. To store, transfer to a quart-size mason jar, and refrigerate for up to four weeks. / flat bread preparation/ In a large bowl, stir together the flour, salt, yeast and sugar. Make a well in the middle of the dry ingredients, and add the water and oil. Mix with a large spoon until the dough is shaggy. Transfer the dough onto a lightly floured surface; knead until soft and very smooth. Transfer dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean towel, and let proof for 1 hour at room temperature. While the dough proofs, preheat the grill. Transfer the dough to a surface, and flatten it into a large, thin round using a rolling pin (you may also split the dough in four to six pieces and make small rounds). Brush oil on both sides. Place the oiled, flat dough directly on the grill, and cook for 4 minutes on each side or until both sides are golden brown and the flatbread feels firm. Remove from the heat, and cut into smaller pieces. Arrange on a large platter with a jar of tomato confit.
6 garlic cloves, peeled 6 small sprigs thyme
¼ cup olive oil
GARLIC, HERB & TOMATO CONFIT
THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND 15september 2022 / feastmagazine.com
FLATBREAD 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp instant yeast 1 tsp sugar 1¼ cup warm water ¼ cup olive oil extra olive oil for grilling
The arrival of fall and its astonishing change in colors shock me year after year. Its mesmerizing beauty slightly distracts me from the fact that winter is just around the corner. It also inspires a hunger for grilling and the desire to use as many of my remaining garden tomatoes as possible. Naturally slow-roasting cherry or grape tomatoes off the vine with fresh herbs and garlic, enjoyed over a simple grilled bread, is the ideal way to celebrate the end of summer.
STORY AND RECIPE BY GABY WEIR VERA, PRIVATE CHEF, COLUMBIA, MISSOURI / PHOTO BY BEN NICKELSON with garlic, herb & tomato confit
GRILLED FLATBREAD WITH GARLIC, HERB & TOMATO CONFIT SERVES | 4 |
GRILLED FLATBREAD
2 large sprigs rosemary
for leftover pizza Easy as PIE
| PHOTOS SUPPLIED
We’re all a bit overzealous when we call up our local pizzeria to order dinner, which inevitably leaves us with plenty of leftovers for the next day. Although there is a time and a place for cold pizza, we're all usually looking to recreate that magical, fresh, out-of-the-box taste with day-old slices. There are plenty of theories when it comes to reheating pizza – some swear by the microwave, while others embrace the air fryer.
New York-style pizza is prized for its slightly chewy crust, and the reheating method you choose will mean the difference between a soggy crust and a perfect bite. Padavan’s NY Pizza and Pinball serves New York-style pizza in St. Charles. “Spritz the crust with a little water, and reheat it in the oven at 450°F for three to five minutes,” says chef and co-owner Markus Padavan. Padavan’s NY Pizza and Pinball, 3249 Rue Royale St. #1, St. Charles, Missouri, 636.947.6969, padavansny.com Massa’s serves St. Louis-style pizza, and Josh Ziegler, manager at Massa’s in St. Charles, says that reheating the thin and crispy crust successfully means keeping the crispness without burning it. Luckily, Massa’s has a couple of suggestions for reaching pizza-reheating perfection. “Putting it in the oven for 300°F for just long enough to warm it up, or reheating it in the air fryer works best,” Ziegler says. Massa’s, mutiple locations, massasofcourse.com
On our hunt to discover the best way to reheat day-old pizza, we spoke with several area pizza professionals to get their expert takes on how to reheat pizza in all its mouthwatering forms and return our favorite slices to their original glory.
WRITTEN BY AMANDA BRETZ
THICK CRUST AND DEEP DISH
A’mis Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria serves a variety of pizza styles. Customers can choose from St. Louis, New York or Chicago styles. The pizza pros at A’mis have plenty of reheating tips, especially when it comes to Chicago-style ’za. “It’s best to use the microwave for about three minutes on high power for Chicago deep dish,” says A’mis cook Benji Jones. “Or, try adding a slice to a sealed Ziploc bag, and add the bag to boiling water until warm.”
JJ Twig’s Pizza & Pub, multiple locations, jjtwigsstl.com
Microwave Oven Traditional Oven Air Fryer
THIN CRUST
Anthonio’s Taverna serves a mix of Italian and Greek specialties, including pizza with a hand-tossed crust. The spot’s recommendation for reheating includes protecting the crust by making a pouch out of foil. “Keep the oven around 400°F and reheat it in the foil packet; it turns out perfect every time,” says Anthonio’s staff member Jim Urzi. Anthonino’s Taverna, 2225 Macklind Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.773.4455, anthoninos.com
Expert reheating
16 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
CALZONES Although it’s not technically pizza, calzones have many of the same tasty ingredients, all wrapped up in a handy, portable package. With that handy packaging comes a bit of a reheating challenge. The experts at Sauce on the Side offer a method to avoid losing the goodness on the inside upon reheating: “Fold foil over it [before placing it in the oven] to help the toppings stay inside [and cook evenly],” says marketing director Tony Withouse. Sauce on the Side, multiple locations, sauceontheside.com
JJ Twig’s Pizza & Pub serves iconic double-decker pies, which feature two thin-crust pizzas layered on top of one another held together by a braided crust. “Double-decker does best in an oven at 350 to 375°F; the amount of time depends on the amount of toppings,” says Lewis Caradonna, manager at JJ Twig’s in O’Fallon, Missouri.
A’mis Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria, multiple locations, amispizza.com
tips for
GiveusyourthoughtsaboutFeastMagazine andbeenteredtowina $250VisaGiftCard. Takethe survey: feastmagazine.com/Survey Seecompleterulesat:www.feastmagazine.com/SurveyRules Telluswhat you think!
2 cups shiso leaves, packed, roughly chopped ½ cup cashews, lightly toasted 2 to 3 cloves garlic juice of 1 medium lemon
WRITER AND RECIPE PHOTOSAPERIODICTABLEBLOG.COMDEVELOPER,BYJENNIFERSILVERBERG inrecipe;equallyshisoRedandgreenleavesworkwellforthisgreenwillresultasweeterpesto,whileredwillhavemoreofanastringentbite.
/ to serve / Slide pizza out of oven onto cutting board; let cool just slightly, then use a chef’s knife to slice into pieces.
YOUR DEFINITELYFAVORITENEWHERBTHATYOU’RENOTUSINGENOUGH.
PESTO
Shrimp and Charred Scallion Pizza with Shiso Leaf Pesto BY SHANNON WEBER,
Shiso leaves (also called perilla) are a leafy herb ranging from a sweeter vibrant green to a slightly astringent plum-hued variety. Their flavor profile is similar across color – think Thai basil with a citrus brightness, leveled out by a hint of warm clove and cinnamon. You won’t find them in conventional markets, so head to an Asian or international market, which typically keep them stocked year-round.
1 batch fresh pizza dough
STORY AND RECIPE
18 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
YIELDS |
Shiso Leaves
8 to 10 scallions, trimmed at both ends, sliced in half lengthwise 8 to 9 oz, 16-20 size raw shrimp, cleaned, shells removed 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided, plus more to drizzle
PIZZA
4 oz whole milk ricotta, whisked with 1Tbsp milk to loosen 1⁄₃ cup shiso pesto, recipe follows 4 oz fresh mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste
WHAT DO I DO WITH IT? You’ve likely seen them lining the bottom of sushi plates, which is a beautiful and practical use, as shiso leaves prevent spoilage. They work well with fish (especially fattier varieties) and play nicely with both fruits and vegetables. Think of deploying them into recipes as you would basil or mint leaves – a fresh addition with deeper, more complex flavor. They can lean savory or sweet and can be blended into sauces and pestos, finely chopped into salads, steeped into simple syrup or used in baked goods.
SERVES | 4 |
Spread ricotta mixture evenly over pizza crust; dollop pesto on top, spreading lightly. Layer shrimp and scallions; scatter torn mozzarella on top. Drizzle with olive oil, and season again with salt and pepper to taste. Carefully slide pizza with parchment on top of hot pizza stone; bake for 10 minutes, sliding parchment paper out from under crust halfway through baking.
ONE 12-INCH PIZZA |
WHAT IS IT?
/ preparation / Add shiso leaves, cashews, garlic, lemon juice and sambal oelek to the bowl of a food processor; pulse in short bursts until broken down. Turn motor on, and slowly stream in 2/3 cup olive oil; add more as needed until desired consistency is reached. Season to taste, and set aside. Place a pizza stone in oven, and preheat to 500˚F. Line a rimless sheet pan with parchment; stretch out dough on prepared pan to make a 12-inch pizza.
While dough is resting, heat a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat; add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add scallions to pan, and let cook for 2 minutes to char; stir to flip, and cook 1 minute more; transfer to plate. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to pan; once heated, add shrimp to pan, season with salt and pepper and sauté until cooked through, 4 minutes.
2 to 3 tsp sambal oelek ²⁄₃ to ¾ cup olive oil ½ tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
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Toss shrimp with Worcestershire sauce, cayenne, black pepper and cloves. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add the shrimp, stirring and tossing with a spatula. Cook until they turn pink, about 2 minutes. Cut shrimp and Andouille into bite-sized pieces.
Bake at 425 °F until cheese is melted and brown. Serve with Louisiana Hot Sauce on the side.
MAKE THE MEAL
CREOLE SHRIMP PIZZA
/ preparation / In 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat, sauté the onion, bell pepper and celery until soft, about 15 minutes. In the meantime, make a roux by combining flour and 2 tablespoons oil in a small pot, cooking over medium heat for about 20 minutes until the roux turns mahogany brown. Do not burn. Add roux to vegetables, and stir until coated.
Top pizza crust with ½ cup of sauce, then shrimp, sausage and cheeses. Top with scallions.
THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND 20 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 YIELDS | ONE 12-INCH PIZZA | SAUCE 6 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided 2 Tbsp flour 1 large onion, diced ½ green bell pepper, diced 1 celery stalk, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced ¾ cup dry white wine 1 10-oz can diced tomatoes with green chiles 1 28-oz can whole, peeled tomatoes 1 tsp brown sugar 1 bay leaf ¼ tsp saltpaprikaandpepper, to taste TOPPINGS ½ lb shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 TbspWorcestershire sauce ¼ tsp cayenne ½ tsp fresh ground black pepper dash of ground cloves 1 link andouille sausage 12 inch pizza crust 4 oz Provel 2 oz Cheddar 5 chopped LouisianascallionsHotSauce, to serve ○ Creole Shrimp Pizza ○ Cheddar Grits ○ Chicken and Sausage Gumbo ○ Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce Get Hands-Onet Join Schnucks Cooking School chef amy feese at 3PM on SAT.,September 24 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on this class, contact the cooking school directly. for more information and to buy tickets, visit cooking-schoolnourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-orcall314.909.1704.
In Shreveport, Louisiana, where I lived for nearly a decade, there is a pizzeria with a “Sweep the Swamp” pizza topped with shrimp, crab and crawfish. Drawing on this dish for inspiration, here is a Louisiana-style pizza with a St. Louis twist. Creole sauce makes a great substitute for traditional pizza sauce. The creamy Provel and Cheddar cheeses that top the thin crust mimic the creamy Cheddar grits traditionally served with Creole-style shrimp.
In this class, we will learn about Louisiana cuisine and classic dishes with plenty of flavor and Southern flair.
WRITTEN BY AMY FEESE
PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG
Add wine, tomatoes, brown sugar, bay leaf and paprika. Simmer for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add a dash or two of Louisiana Hot Sauce if desired.
I took a cooking class with Bonci in 2014, and we made 38 pizzas over two days. His book has three simple dough recipes that are geared toward pan pizza but can be adapted to hearth baking. His toppings section is organized according to the four seasons, and he’s famously known for once having sold 1,000 different types of pizza in a year at his shop in Rome.
Pizzeria da Gloria, 2024 Marconi Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.833.3734, pizzeriadagloria.com
The Joy of Pizza by Dan Richer with Katie Parla (2021) This book from Razza in Jersey City, [New Jersey], shares a diligent and methodical approach with lots of pictures to show you how to get your pizza just right. My favorite part is that he emphasizes setting intentions prior to making different recipes. This book is also great for anyone wanting to better understand the science behind pizza-making.
21september 2022 / feastmagazine.com with Joe Kurowski / chef-owner, PIZZeRIA DA GLORIA CULINARY LIBRARY
Pizza by Gabriele Bonci with Elisia Menduni (2013)
Pizza Czar by Anthony Falco (2021) Falco was my former boss at the “pizza lifestyle brand” Rad Times Pizza in New York City. His book covers all the necessary basics, from equipment sourcing to ranch recipes, and how to make mozzarella from scratch. It has a few different types of pizza dough, including a Sicilian and one reminiscent of the golden days of Pizza Hut.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN Quick meal solutions you will feel good about serving your family. Nuggets and Tenders and Patties...o oh my! Exclusively At
t At Pizzeria da Gloria in The Hill neighborhood, passionate pizza chef Joe Kurowski cooks up woodfired, American-style pies with Italian sensibilities that showcase the breadth of his experiences. The seasoned chef developed his affinity for the craft during a transformative family trip to Italy. After attending a pizza masterclass in Rome with pizza expert Gabriele Bonci, he continued to hone the craft while working at institutions including Fornino in New York City's Brooklyn, Pizzeria dal Presidente in Naples, Italy and Marta in NYC's Manhattan. Here, Kurowski shares three influential cookbooks from his culinary journey that will help home chefs fall in love with pizzamaking, too.
WRITTEN BY ALECIA HUMPHREYS PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT
The secret to Boardwalk Pizza’s success? Service with a smile – and, of course, superb slices! Pizzas are crafted with housemade dough that’s hand-tossed to order before being sprinkled with freshly grated mozzarella cheese and the toppings of your choice. Fan faves are the Shark Attack (a meat lover’s pizza) and the Hurricane (supreme plus). The Maui Chicken is also a standout that starts with an olive oil base and features fresh garlic, grilled chicken, red onions, pineapple, mushrooms, mandarin oranges and Provolone cheese.
There’s a reason Faraci Pizza has been preparing such popular pizzas since 1968: It crafts each creation with the owners’ grandmother’s recipes, which date back to the early 1900s. Each pizza starts with homemade dough before being topped with from-scratch sauce, handsliced Provel cheese and grated, imported Romano (and your toppings of choice) before being baked in a brick-bottom oven. The result is a crispy crust that has no doubt become a metro area classic.
Boardwalk Pizza
15430 Manchester Road, Ellisville, Missouri, faracispizza.com
ELLISVILLE
15858 Manchester Road, Ellisville, Missouri, pizzarellispizza.com
15638 Manchester Road, Ellisville, Missouri, bwpizza.com
These eateriesthreeare serving up slices everyone will enjoy.
22 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
Whether you’re craving a classic St. Louis-style, thin-crust pizza, are ready to devour a deep-dish Chicago-style pizza or have a hankering for a hand-tossed New York-style pizza, Pizzarelli’s Pizzeria is a one-stop shop for impeccable pies from each region. Pizzarelli’s starts each pie with homemade dough before slathering it with a sweet and tangy sauce (a recipe that has been passed down for four generations) and, of course, adding all the tasty toppings – including its own grated mozzarella.
Pizzarelli’s Pizzeria
Faraci Pizza
Unlike
you
Drive, Edwardsville, Illinois • More info 618.650.9003, bluevioletedwardsville.com • Menu Eclectic contemporary cuisine with global influences Hours Dinner Wed.-Sat. (closed Sun.-Tues.)
Blue Violet Blue Violet, which debuted in May in Edwardsville, Illinois, is the most recent venture from prolific restaurateur Michael Del Pietro. might know Pietro from Sugo’s Spaghetteria, Il Palato and his reinvention of his parents’ iconic Del Pietro. his other Blue Violet's menu doesn’t feature what will find is an eclectic that’s hard Violet, 6108 Shoger
Louis, Missouri • More info 314.601.3524, menyarui.square.site • Menu Ramen • Hours Dinner Thurs.-Sun. (closed Mon.-Wed.) READ MORE READ MORE Photo by Hillary Levin, St. Louis Post-Dispatch Photo by
pizza or pasta or chicken Parm; instead,
and inventive menu
eateries,
to define. Where Blue
pork shoyu ramen. Where Menya
St. Louis Post-Dispatch RESTAURANTS REVIEWED 23september 2022 / feastmagazine.com From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb RESTAURANTS REVIEWED AlwaysA GreatChoice! 4830PIONEERRD•HILLSBORO,MO•636.797.8686•WILDSUN.COM
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Menya Rui Steven Pursley, the chef and owner of three-month-old Menya Rui in Lindenwood Park, studied ramen for three years in Japan. It shows; diners have been lining up outside his restaurant to wait for bowls of his ramen. If you consider pork ramen synonymous with rich, creamy tonkotsu broth, let Pursley introduce you to the Onomichi style of his Rui, 3453 Hampton Ave., St. Allie Schallert,
“The Pinot Nero: I like that with a Margherita [pizza] because I like bubbles and I also like rosé, so put them both together.”
Cantine Barbera Nero D’Avola
“I love a Beaujolais. Those tend to be light, fruity, ready to go, just ready to drink. It’s not breaking the bank.”
When it comes to choosing which wine to serve with your gourmet pizza, Voss and the rest of his staff are here to help. With a Margherita pizza, Voss likes serving a Lambrusco, an Italian sparkling red. “It’s simple, it’s fruity, it has a nice chill to it and a little bit of effervescence,” he says. For a heavier, meatier pizza, try a Pinot Nero. “It’s going to cut through some of that fat of the cheese but then balance out with the acidity for the tomato sauce,” Voss says.
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24 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
PizzaYourWithtoWinesPair
Pastaria Deli & Wine
Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling “[Hermann J. Wiemer is] in New York in the Finger Lakes. They do a number of wines, but it’s as clean of a wine as you can get, and the fact that it does have that little bit of sweetness – I think it would pair really nicely with anything with some real heat.”
G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo “G.D. Vajra is a super well-known house. They’ve been making wine for hundreds of years, but they went back to an ancestral style to make a carbonic Nebbiolo. If you like Italian wine with pizza, Nebbiolo is the way to go, and it’s fantastic.”
Séléné Beaujolais
Eric Voss, the manager of the shop, encourages customers to be creative with their pizza toppings, especially regarding one subgroup: tinned fish. He loves the idea of an Oysters Rockefeller-style pizza with a white base, smoked salmon, oysters, olive oil, lemon and capers. If you prefer a pizza with red sauce, he says try putting anchovies over the top for a funky, salty bite that plays well with the richness of mozzarella. Other pizza toppings he recommends include grilled olives, capers, truffle oil and sun-dried tomatoes.
WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY CHARLOTTE RENNER
Pastaria Deli & Wine, 7734-2 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.773.7755, pastariadeliwine.com
Le Monde Pinot Nero Rosé
Located next to its restaurant counterpart, Pastaria Deli & Wine in Clayton is the shop to help you round out your next pizza party. Here, you’ll find wines to pair with pies and elevated toppings such as artichoke hearts and anchovies marinated in chile paste.
“In my opinion, this one can stand up to a lot of reds. You got a pepperoni, it’s going to combat some of that spice. When it’s not done right, that can be a really tough one, like pepperoni and a big tannic red wine, but this one does a great job.”
You have some classics on your pizza menu, such as a marinara and a four-cheese pie, but when it comes to the stuff that is a little more experimental, how do you approach designing your toppings? Sometimes, it’s just taking a dish [and translating it.] For example, shakshuka is a dish near and dear to my heart, and that was one of our original pizza lineups, translating that dish into a pizza form. Sometimes, we’re just taking flavor combinations that work well together and translating those into a pizza. And sometimes, we’re looking at what’s in season. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a constructed dish – it could just be two toppings that complement and work with each other.
Joe Luckey executive chef, Fordo’s Killer Pizza
The main difference is going to be our pizza dough. Our pizza crust is a naturally leavened sourdough starter pizza, which is a very challenging approach to pizza. You have to maintain your starter and make sure that it’s healthy and active before you make a pizza dough. Sometimes, it can go wrong. Things can go wrong, and you have to pivot and adjust and constantly be monitoring everything. One of the other things is [that] our oven is an Acunto Napoli; it’s imported from Italy. What sort of difference does that wood-fired oven make, both in the cooking of the pizza and the resulting taste? With this pizza oven, it’s a much lower dome, and that allows the fire to roll all over the dome and get an even cook, which also allows a faster cook time than the pizzas at Pastaria. We can generally cook a pizza in like 90 seconds if we’ve got our pizza oven [at] the right temperature. And you get a little bit more of the leoparding that you see with Neapolitan-style pizza.
ONE ON ONE ONE on WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON PHOTO BY PAIGE MCDONALD
With Fordo’s Killer Pizza at the City Foundry STL food hall, Joe Luckey is the executive chef at a Niche Food Group joint for the first time, but he is far from a stranger when it comes to the restaurant group. He worked with NFG at both Pastaria locations in St. Louis and Nashville, as well as at Brasserie and Taste. Luckey always found himself gravitating towards the pizza station in the Pastaria kitchens, so when the opportunity with Fordo’s came about, it seemed like the most logical step to immerse himself in the world of pizza. Here, he shares how he is approaching the pies in the Fordo’s Killer Pizza kitchen and what exciting concoctions have been his favorite so far.
Most people think of Pastaria when it comes to NFG serving pizza. What sets the Fordo’s pies apart?
What creations have been some of your favorites so far? One that we initially ran just as a special, but it was really well-received, and people kept coming in for it, so we just went ahead and put it on the menu: our Hawaiian pizza, which is a nod to the Pastaria Hawaiian that doesn’t exist anymore. We approached it a little bit differently; on that one, we’re taking whole pineapples and just roasting them completely in our wood-fired oven. And then puréeing that, and that’s the base, so the pineapple becomes the sauce on that one, versus traditional Hawaiian that would have chunks of pineapple. That one’s finished with mozzarella, red onion, jalapeño, and when it comes out of the oven, Volpi heritage prosciutto, so kind of true to a Hawaiian’s flavor profile but a little bit of a twist on it. We also, by popular demand – a lot of people were asking for sausage – so we have a beef sausage. I don’t want to say it’s a Philly cheesesteak, but it has that flavor profile – a roasted tomato sauce, caramelized bell peppers and caramelized onions, beef sausage and fontina, and it’s finished with chives.
Fordo’s Killer Pizza, City Foundry STL, 3700 Forest Park Ave., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, fordospizza.com
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Taco pizza might sound like a bastardized version of two beloved dishes, but not all iterations are created equally. It can be a work of genius –especially when it’s made by a creative chef using quality ingredients. Although some might find the combination of such foods objectionable, more and more local pizza joints are putting their own spin on the concept with a finer touch than you probably remember as a kid.
BOOTLEGGIN’ 3RD GEAR: At the 2nd Shift Brewing outpost of Bootleggin’ BBQ – which closed its downtown St. Louis location to relocate to Bootleggin’ Tavern in The Grove neighborhood – you’ll find a taco pizza made on a thin and crispy St. Louis-style crust, sourced from Charlie Gitto’s on The Hill. The Bootleggin’ 3rd Gear version tops the crust with a housemade chipotle sauce, STL-style and Cheddar Jack cheeses, majica chile-rubbed brisket, onion and tomato. When it comes out of the oven, it’s finished with shredded lettuce and a citrus crema for a little zest. “That St. Louis-style thin crust is just a great platform for us to try to utilize some of these other products [in our kitchen] without waste, but also reinvent the flavors that we are already having, and we turn it into a pizza,” says partner and pitmaster Brenton Brown.
26 feastmagazine.com / september 2022 THE DISH / MIDWEST MADE / HEALTHY APPETITE / CRASH COURSE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / QUICK FIX / HOMETOWN HITS / SHOP HERE / ON TREND
WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON PHOTO BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT TACO PIZZA BY PIZZA CHAMP
“I think what makes our version stand out is [that] we take the quality ingredients that everyone expects from us at Pizza Champ, but we created something that not only evokes great memories and nostalgia, but that also tastes better than the tacos I remember eating growing up,” Altnether says.
Pi Pizzeria + Rico, 10312 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, Missouri, 314.671.4016, pi-pizza.com
Bootleggin’ 3rd Gear, 1601 Sublette Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/bootleggin3rdgear Pizza
Pizza Champ, 2657 Lyle Ave., Maplewood, Missouri, pizzachampstl.com
TACO
PIZZA CHAMP: Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling first put a taco pizza on their menu when Pizza Champ pies were coming out of the kitchen at the currently closed Elmwood, but the dish has carried over to the pizza concept’s brick-and-mortar location. This version starts with the pizza joint’s sourdough crust and is topped with ground beef, taco sauce, crema, red onion, Cheddar, tomato, shredded lettuce and tortilla strips.
PI PIZZERIA + RICO: The Kirkwood location of Pi Pizzeria + Rico is the first time that Cary McDowell has joined two of his concepts under one roof, and with that marriage came the restaurant’s version of a taco pizza: The Rico Pi. This dish layers mozzarella, refried beans and Rico’s ground beef on a recommended thin crust dusted with cornmeal (deep-dish and gluten-free options are also available) before being topped with tortilla chips, housemade salsa, shredded romaine, pico de gallo, chipotle crema, Cotija cheese and cilantro. “We just want to be unique,” chef David Rodriguez says. “We’re just trying to show that off. How many people can say they’ve had pizzas with refried beans on them?”
27feastmagazine.com / september 2022 JOINFEASTMAGAZINE as we celebrate thereleaseofthe September issue!Enjoy livemusic, tasty bites from localfood trucksand beveragesfrom the Canteen while learningmore about one ofSt. Louis’favorite traditionsand mostubiquitoustakeoutstaples pizza! Formore information,visit feastmagazine.com/garden PRESENTED BY GARDEN FRIDAY,SEPTEMBER9 6-8PM at the atthe
❤We We ❤ We SEARCHING FOR WRITTENBYMARYANDINO|PHOTOSSUPPLIED
29 ❤ We ❤We ❤ We A TOUR OF REGIONALLY INSPIRED PIZZAS IN ST. LOUIS september 2022 / feastmagazine.com
Onesto Pizza & Trattoria
Pie Guy Pizza
Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, 5401 Finkman St., Princeton Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.802.8883, onestopizza.com
Onesto Pizza & Trattoria
From Philadelphia’s stromboli to Detroit’s buttery square pies, St. Louis has become home to many distinct pizza styles.
Dan O’s Pizza, 3477 New Town Blvd., St. Charles, Missouri, 636.724.3266, danos-pizza.com La Pizza
Motor town Pizza Motor Town Pizza takes inspiration from Detroit in two ways. It makes pizza in the city’s style, and it also names all its pizza options after cars, with pies like the Model P, Red Racer and Assembly Line. Owner and operator Simon Lusky’s favorite pie is Abe Froman’s Ferrari, which features Brick and smoked Provolone cheeses, sausage, onion, sport peppers and giardiniera. Motor Town has also attracted a loyal following for its gluten-free Detroit-style pizzas. After rounds and rounds of experimentation, Lusky developed the ideal focaccia-like crust that brings chew and crispiness without the gluten. “We have a really good following on lots of local gluten-free sites,” Lusky says. “A lot of people tell us it’s the best glutenfree pizza in St. Louis.”
Motor Town Pizza, 8388 Musick Memorial Drive (inside Revel Kitchen), Brentwood, Missouri, 314.514.5392, motortownpizza.com
For Onesto owner Nick Lograsso, quality pizza sauce is the most important part of a stromboli. It has to bring flavor and depth, which only come after it’s simmered for a long time. And for those of you wondering what the difference is between a calzone and a stromboli, Lograsso says, “A calzone originated in Naples, and it’s a half-moon shape. A stromboli is more of a Hot Pocket shape.” Lograsso’s favorite stromboli is Onesto’s barbecue smoked chicken with jalapeños, mozzarella, bacon, caramelized onions and Cheddar.
Although Pie Guy Pizza has an established reputation for cooking up New York-style pizzas, in-the-know customers order its Detroit-style offerings. For head chef and co-owner Mitch Frost, this version is all about the cheese. “Detroit-style is cheese from edge to edge, so you get kind of a melt-over in that combination of cheese and butter [on the pan], and the caramelization of the dough creates that nice crispiness on the edge,” he says. Frost uses a mix of mozzarella and Provel for that perfect combination of saltiness and creaminess. And when it comes to toppings on a Detroit pie, he advises keeping it simple. “The less toppings the better. The more and more toppings get on there, it kind of deflates a little bit of the airiness, so my favorite is just straight pepperoni.”
Pie Guy Pizza, 4189 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com
La Pizza has been a family-run joint since its inception in 2003. Paul Bishop Sr. and Paul Bishop Jr. are still the only ones who make the dough, sauce and toppings. La Pizza’s Stromboli includes pepperoni, ham, sausage, green pepper, onion and mozzarella wrapped in dough for a handheld version of a supreme-style pizza.
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La Pizza, 8137 Delmar Blvd., University City, Missouri, 314.725.1230, lapizzamenu.com We We
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Dan O’s Pizza If you’re looking to make restaurant-quality pizza at home and support a local business, keep an eye out in the frozen section of your local Schnucks for Dan O’s Pizza. Although the pizzeria has a storefront for takeout, its frozen pizzas can be found in more than 65 Schnucks stores in the St. Louis area. In addition to classic hand-tossed and St. Louis-style pizzas, Dan O’s also offers Detroit-style pies. Co-owner Dan Moran constructs Detroit pizzas in a specific way: dough, cheese, toppings and then dollops of red sauce on top. When it comes to toppings, Moran has one thing in mind: meat. For Moran, pepperoni, bacon and sausage are always the way to go.
Travel the United States within the metro area by visiting these pizzerias and trying their regional pies.
SalvageYardBar and Grill
Pointer’s Pizza With two universities and three hospitals nearby, Pointer’s Pizza is always bustling with takeout and delivery orders. Open since 1991, the spot has perfected its New York-style pies. It makes its hand-tossed dough fresh daily and tops its pies with fresh meats and vegetables. Pointer’s takes pride in its unique sauces. “We have our own spices that we devise our own recipe for that makes us more unique than anybody else,” co-owner Dave Hughes says.
Blackthorn Pub and Pizza, 3735 Wyoming St., Tower Grove South, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.776.0534, blackthornstl.com
Salvage Yard Bar and Grill
John Alfano grew up in Chicago but found himself missing New York-style pan pizza when he moved to Wentzville, Missouri, so he set up his own shop. The key to his chewy yet crispy crust lies in a carefully calibrated mix of all-purpose and double 00 flour – the kind of flour used to make Neapolitan-style pizza. The all-purpose flour gives the pizza structure and the ability to stand up to toppings, while the double 00 keeps it crisp and light. Using a low-moisture, part-skim mozzarella is also crucial. “Our cheese is probably the star of the show," Alfano says. "My father, when he came to this country and first started making pizzas, contracted with this farmer up in Wisconsin. We’ve been getting the same cheese from the same cows from the same farms for over 50 years.”
Located in the home of former pizza shop Louie’s Pizza Co., Salvage Yard Bar and Grill combines dishes from Louie’s and Georgio’s Italian Restaurant, plus house recipes, for a unique menu. The spot’s claim to fame is classic, Chicago-style deep-dish pizza. A buttery crust is filled with sausage, pepperoni or bacon and veggies such as onions, green peppers or mushrooms. Regulars know about the not-so-secret, secret menu item: the spaghetti and meatball deep-dish pizza – the ultimate celebration of cheese and carbs.
You might have to allow a bit of extra time for a Chicago-style pie to cook, but at Blackthorn Pub and Pizza, it’s worth the wait. Its signature deep-dish crust is 2 ½ inches thick. Open since 1986, Blackthorn has become a Tower Grove South institution reliable for its hot, cheesy pizzas and cold beers.
31september 2022 / feastmagazine.com
Blackthorn Pub and Pizza
Alfano’s Pizza, 1437 Wentzville Parkway, Wentzville, Missouri, 636.856.9494, facebook.com/AlfanosPizzaWentzville ❤ We ❤ We
Pointer’s Pizza, 1023 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, Missouri, 314.644.2000, pointersdelivery.com
Salvage Yard Bar and Grill, 5406 Hampton Ave., Princeton Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.832.8200, salvageyardbarandgrill.com
Alfano’s Pizza
NICKY SLICES, AN BUSINESS,INSTAGRAM-BASEDISREVOLUTIONIZINGPIZZADELIVERYINST.LOUIS. ST.CLUBTHEINLOUISCoolest WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER PIZZA PHOTOS COURTESY OF NICKY SLICES PIZZA
The man behind the brand is chef Nick Williams, who always swore he wouldn’t end up in the food industry despite growing up around it. His dad owned the former South City neighborhood pizzeria Natty’s. After attending the University of MissouriColumbia for journalism, Williams moved to New York City to intern for a magazine in the graphic design department. Williams quickly had to get another job, as, “It turns out, internships don’t pay a lot,” he says. So, he turned to what he knew. He scored a cook position at a seafood joint called Littleneck and worked his way up to running the kitchen. Williams planned to open his own restaurant in New York City, but then the pandemic began.
33september 2022 / feastmagazine.com
There, you’ll find the weekly pizza specials alongside the classics, plus lasagna, dips and desserts. Fill out your order form, and put in your address. Nicky Slices will deliver your order at the end of the week (Thursdays for St. Louis County, Fridays for St. Louis city). Once your pizza is delivered, follow the detailed baking instructions and enjoy.
“I don’t go to Yelp or anything; I go to Instagram to see what the food looks like, or if they’re doing a special that day, or what’s going on with the restaurant,” Williams says. “Instagram is like putting your best foot forward.”
Nick Williams
You’ll have to move quickly – after the weekly menu is posted at 6pm on Monday nights, the pop-up sells out fast. It works like this: Open your Instagram app, and search @nickyslicespizza. Click the link in the bio, and choose the option, “ORDER HERE! NEW MENU EVERY MONDAY 6PM!”
Photo by Charlotte Renner
“I was like, ‘That’s too exclusive,’” Williams says. “I kind of kept getting pushed toward pizza. Once I got the logo and everything together, it just clicked, and it took off. I just put it on Instagram one day, and it did what it did.”
”What it did” was explode. As of August 2022, Nicky Slices had 10,700 followers (or “Slicers,” as he affectionately refers to them). The bio reads “the coolest club in the world.” Williams used his journalistic skills to create all the brand’s graphic designs and marketing videos and to write energetic captions that are full of quips and almost exclusively written in all caps. In Williams’ opinion, Instagram is the most important platform for a restaurant.
Nicky Slices has taken the St. Louis pizza world by storm by selling take-and-bake, Detroit-style pies on one singular platform: Instagram. Interested?
Williams moved back home to St. Louis, where he dreamt up the idea for Nicky Slices. The idea started as a private dinner club concept, but Williams didn’t think the idea was big enough.
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Williams also keeps the menu interesting by constantly coming out with new, inventive pizzas weekly. The week this article was written, the new addition was called “The Summer Baby” and featured peaches, grilled corn, soppressata, hoisin and ricotta laced with garlic, chile and honey. What will it be next week? There are endless possibilities.
“I put so many hours into getting that right for take-and-bake,” Williams says. “It’s nothing special; it’s just letting the dough have time to develop flavor.”
He says he understands that Instagram isn’t exactly the most conventional way to order a pizza. “We’re just doing it with what we got right now,” he says. “There will be a time when you will be able to call, or you will be able to walk up and buy from a real brick-and-mortar.”
34 feastmagazine.com / september 2022
Find all menu and business updates on Nicky Slices’ Instagram, @nickyslicespizza.
Photo by Charlotte Renner
@nickyslicespizzaGoto “Clickthelinkinthebioandchoosetheoption ORDERHERE!NEWMENUEVERYMONDAY6PM! ”
One popular pizza is the Roner – a take on the classic pepperoni that incorporates garlic chile hot honey and basil. The Range Roner adds bacon, candied jalapeños and spicy ranch to the Roner recipe, and the White Stripes includes roasted wild mushrooms, onion, garlic cream and truffle honey.
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SummerBaby WhiteStripes
Ronner Wade Taylor, Nick Williams and Tyler Wayne
But the Instagram-only platform isn’t the only thing that makes Nicky Slices special. The pizzas themselves are culinary masterpieces and quickly turn first-time customers into repeat ones. The standout quality is the buttery, fluffy, crunchy crust, which fans regularly rave about.
Evolution is a main component of the business philosophy of Nicky Slices. The next step is establishing a brick-and-mortar location, which is high on Williams’ to-do list. “I’ve been thinking about this since we started, and I haven’t stopped,” he says. “I’m very lucky that I was able to put this vision on paper and put it out on the app. But I’ve also put just as much thought and love into what the actual physical thing will look and feel like.”
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